SEVEN by Dima Markova

journal for the modern gentleman

SEVEN IS THE GENTLEMAN OF DIGITS. ODD AND FOREVER IN HIS PRIME, SEVEN IS CHIVALROUS, LOYAL AND TRUSTWORTHY. HE DOES NOT GET DIVIDED BETWEEN OTHERS, BUT WHEN HE DOES – HE ALWAYS HAS A POINT. IN CHRISTIANITY SEVEN IS THE NUMERICAL SYMBOL OF FULLNESS, COMPLETION AND PERFECTION. IT REPRESENTS THE FOUNDATION OF GOD’S CREATION OF ALL THINGS. THE BIBLE WAS ORIGINALLY DIVIDED INTO SEVEN MAJOR SECTIONS. THERE ARE SEVEN DEADLY SINS AND SEVEN HEAVENLY VIRTUES. GOD RESTED ON THE SEVENTH DAY, JESUS PERFORMED SEVEN MIRACLES AND PAUL LISTS SEVEN GIFTS OF THE SPIRIT. THE BIBLE WRITES OF SEVEN CHURCHES, SEVEN ANGELS, SEVEN THUNDERS AND SEVEN PLAGUES. THE RESURRECTED CHRIST APPEARED SEVEN TIMES, THE SEVENTH TIME TO SEVEN APOSTLES. AND ACTUALLY… JESUS WAS BORN IN SEVEN BC. THE SEVENTH LETTER IN THE ENGLISH ALPHABET IS G. CHILDREN KNOW SEVEN AS DWARFS IN A FAIRY TALE AND ADULTS KNOW IT AS STAGES OF GRIEF. SEVEN ARE THE DAYS IN A WEEK, THE NOTES IN A MUSICAL SCALE, AND THE COLOURS IN A RAINBOW. SEVEN ARE THE CONTINENTS ON THE PLANET AND THE WONDERS OF THE ANCIENT WORLD. SEVEN IS AS COSMIC AS THE STARS IN THE BIG DIPPER, AND AS MINUSCULE AS THE SPOTS ON A LADYBUG. SEVEN IS WHAT DAVID BECKHAM AND JAMES BOND HAVE IN COMMON. THE SEVENTH ELEMENT ON THE PERIODIC TABLE IS NITROGEN, THE MOST ABUNDANT ELEMENT ON EARTH. THE METRIC SYSTEM USES SEVEN FUNDAMENTAL UNITS OF MEASURE. SEVEN IS THE MAXIMUM NUMBER OF ECLIPSES OF THE SUN AND MOON THAT CAN OCCUR IN ANY ONE YEAR.

THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN SYMBOL FOR WATER CONTAINS SEVEN ZIGZAG LINES, AND THE MAYAN CALENDAR ENDED ON THE SEVENTH GLYPH. IN ISLAMIC RELIGION THE NUMBER OF SKIES IS SEVEN; SO IS THE NUMBER OF LEVELS OF HELL. HINDUISM TELLS OF SEVEN CHAKRAS. THE PROPHET OF THE BAHÁ’I FAITH WROTE ABOUT THE SOUL’S JOURNEY THROUGH THE SEVEN VALLEYS. MAHATMA GANDHI PICKS THE SEVEN BLUNDERS OF THE WORLD THAT CAUSE VIOLENCE, AND IN BUDDHISM, BUDDHA WALKED SEVEN STEPS AT HIS BIRTH. SEVEN IS THE ONLY DIMENSION, BESIDES THE FAMILIAR THREE, IN WHICH A VECTOR CROSS PRODUCT CAN BE DEFINED. THERE ARE SEVEN FAST & FURIOUS FILMS, AND INCLUDING HIMSELF, DIRECTOR FURY ASSEMBLES SEVEN AVENGERS. THERE ARE SEVEN TYPES OF VIRUSES. EVERY PERSON’S CELLS CHANGE ON AVERAGE EVERY SEVEN YEARS. THE NUMBERS ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF A STANDARD SIX-SIDED DIE ALWAYS ADD UP TO SEVEN, MEANING THAT WHEN ROLLING TWO DICE, SEVEN HAS A ONE-OUT-OF-SIX PROBABILITY OF BEING ROLLED, THE GREATEST OF ANY NUMBER. SEVEN IS THE NEUTRAL PH VALUE. EACH AIRPLANE IN BOEING’S LINE OF PASSENGER JETS IS NAMED WITH A THREE-DIGIT NUMBER BEGINNING AND ENDING IN SEVEN. ALMOST ALL MAMMALS HAVE SEVEN CERVICAL VERTEBRAE, INCLUDING THE GIRAFFE. SEVEN IS THE ONLY TWO-SYLLABLE PRIME DIGIT IN ENGLISH. SEVEN IS THE TELEPHONE AREA CODE FOR RUSSIA, THE LARGEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD. TRIPLE SEVEN IS THE JACKPOT NUMBER FOR SLOT MACHINES IN THE UNITED STATES.

As You Like It, Act II, Scene VII [All the world’s a stage] William Shakespeare, 1564 - 1616

Jacques to Duke Senior All the world’s a stage, And all the men and women merely players; They have their exits and their entrances, And one man in his time plays many parts, His acts being seven ages. At first, the infant, Mewling and puking in the nurse’s arms. Then the whining schoolboy, with his satchel And shining morning face, creeping like snail Unwillingly to school. And then the lover, Sighing like furnace, with a woeful ballad Made to his mistress’ eyebrow. Then a soldier, Full of strange oaths and bearded like the pard, Jealous in honour, sudden and quick in quarrel, Seeking the bubble reputation Even in the cannon’s mouth. And then the justice, In fair round belly with good capon lined, With eyes severe and beard of formal cut, Full of wise saws and modern instances; And so he plays his part. The sixth age shifts Into the lean and slippered pantaloon, With spectacles on nose and pouch on side; His youthful hose, well saved, a world too wide For his shrunk shank, and his big manly voice, Turning again toward childish treble, pipes And whistles in his sound. Last scene of all, That ends this strange eventful history, Is second childishness and mere oblivion, Sans teeth, sans eyes, sans taste, sans everything.

EDITOR’S LETTER [6]

WHAT WOULD THE LITTLE PRINCE SAY? [8] DATING A STAR SIGN [9] THE ULTIMATE TRAINERS [14]

MARVEL CINEMATIC UNIVERSE: THE MEN [26] ALBUM COVERS BY THE ALBUM ARTISTS [30] THIS BOY NEXT DOOR [36] A WORLD WITHOUT FOOTBALL [40]

GIRL SINGERS EVERY MAN SHOULD KNOW [42] A POEM FROM ME TO YOU [43] MOST COMMON FEMALE FANTASY [45] HER SMILE [47]

MAN MEETS WOMAN [58] WEBSITES: FOR/FROM MEN [60] TWO LOST SOULS [63]

THE RULES OF A GENTLEMAN [78] STRIPPING THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN [79] THE 21ST CENTURY FASHIONABLE MALE [82] A FEW WAYS TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE [88]

SIGMUND FREUD [90] TEXAS HOLD’EM POKER [92] COUNTLESS MANLY TOYS [96]

CIGAR COMPENDIUM [98] THE LOST CRAFT OF POCKET WATCHES [108]

INDEX [118]

EDITOR’S LETTER

I believe that unlike most women, men know exactly what they value in life with ruthless conviction; with a certainty that’s emotionally detached from their choice. They lay claim to who they are without a note of ambiguity. It might feel primitive, but that’s what makes it so easy for them to just know what they like and guide their lives accordingly. I believe that men slave to their inbred admiration for quality, character, precision, timelessness, ingenuity, humour, and… women. Regardless of age and background, Seven is a journal for the man who cultivates himself morally. It’s for the one who doesn’t claim to know everything; he doesn’t want to know everything - he likes being taught. It’s for the one who isn’t controlled by trends, gossip, atmosphere and sentimentality. It’s for the one whose unique style is effortlessly achieved by a natural set of rules. It’s for the one who fantasises that a superhero lives deep inside him somewhere. Seven is inspired by each stage in a man’s life. Although there’s obvious gender predisposition, this journal doesn’t aim to empower men and it most certainly doesn’t wish to insult anyone. Seven elevates the stereotypical, androgynous concepts that we often indulge in, and secretly rely on. It’s a carefully designed collection showcasing both original pieces and ones borrowed. Its content is composed by both experts and ones not so much. Seven doesn’t own or sell anything; its pages merely attempt to communicate a level of commitment to quality and value. Seven is a guide for the ones who appreciate the traditional and like being provoked by the modern. You don’t have to agree with it, you don’t even have to like it. I simply ask you to be a man about it.

Dima Markova editor, curator, woman

CONTRIBUTORS Jordan H Markov Jordan J Markov Daphni Kontos Alexia Stam Victoria Yaprakova Deborah Lampitt-McConnachie Aneta Lalova Craig Jackson Joe Horner Mira Bachvarova Tomislav ‘Chocho’ Mihailov PEOPLE WHO MADE THIS POSSIBLE Niels Rado Ralf Mara Dobromir Anton Savelina Kris Deia Kolio Nuno Vasil Niki Daria Ivo Vassi and my incredible mother, Milena. Back cover art by Boryana Damyanova and Liubomir Slavkov Sofia, 2015 CREATED BY DIMA MARKOVA dima.markova@gmail.com 6

”

BOY

If you spend any time with a man, you’ll realise that we’re all still little boys.

”

- Paul Walker

JUST

AFEW

LITTLE

PRINCE BOY SHOULD

QUOTES EVERY

KNOW

“Here is my secret. It is very simple: It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye.” “Children should always show great forbearance toward grown-up people.” “What makes the desert beautiful,” said the little prince, “is that somewhere it hides a well.”

“Words are the source of misunderstandings.” “One only understands the things that one tames,” said the fox. “Men have no more time to understand anything. They buy things all ready made at the shops.”But there is no shop anywhere where one can buy friendship...”

“Only the children know what they are looking for.” “It is much more difficult to judge oneself than to judge others. If you succeed in judging yourself rightly, then you are indeed a man of true wisdom.”

“For the travelers the stars are guides. For others they are nothing but tiny lights.” “I have always loved the desert. One sits down on a desert sand dune, sees nothing, hears nothing. Yet through the silence something throbs, and gleams...” “I was too young to know how to love her.”

Nevertheless, when it comes to the woman you like, you should use all means necessary to understand what she wants. It’s good to be prepared. We did extensive research, questioned professionals, hard-core star believers and a few disbelievers, and came up with a guide that may help you. If you find some truth in any of this, you should know that it’s highly unscientific and most likely accidental. Who cares though? Truth is truth.

ATING A WOMA

We agree.

DATING A STAR SIGN

Astrology has been around since ancient times, yet we still remain irritatingly cynical and stubbornly sceptical. Star signs, horoscopes, the zodiac… Searching for answers about someone by staring at the stars just seems like the perfect con.

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ARIES WOMAN March 21 - April 20

TAURUS WOMAN

GEMINI WOMAN

Dating an Aries never lacks excitement. She is hotblooded, and forceful, so you had better be able to handle the heat. The Aries woman is for the person who likes an independent self-driven woman who can fend for herself and is not clingy and needy. For her, the best part of the relationship is the beginning, then the spark is there and she is trying to catch you to be hers. She will not only have a romantic partner but a best friend too. She has a great need for love and passion but she will never let a man become the master, she considers her partner to be equal. She can be jealous because she wants a man to give her all of his attention, “all or nothing”, so her jealously is rooted in her possessiveness, she has to be number one in his eyes. She will always encourage and give strength to her partner so an Aries woman is great to have in times of despair or need, she will always be there for you.

Taurus women are masters in the art of seduction. She will get what she wants but her patience is incredible, she will wait for what she wants. She needs stability and security and will not tolerate a man who is not straight with her and leads her along with uncertainty in the future. She is the oldfashioned type, the type of woman who is associated with the drive-in soda shop days of the 60’s. She is down to earth, protective, supportive, loving, devoted and loyal. She has a lot to give but she requires a lot in return. Remember, the Taurus woman is very sensitive although she might not seem so on the exterior. Court her and constantly try to impress her and you will win her heart and she will be yours. Cross a Taurus woman, and her temper will flare, she will become extremely stubborn. If you ever break her trust, it will be nearly impossible to gain it back again.

Dating a Gemini might feel more like a friendship then a real relationship due to her casual nature. This is not necessarily a disadvantage, for the casual man who shies away from overly romantic emotions, she is the perfect woman. Since Gemini is the astrology sign of the duality, she offers quite the challenge. On one hand, she needs to be nurtured, loved and catered to and on the other hand, she needs stimulation and novelty. She is very demanding and if you do not provide what she wants, she will be off onto the next adventure pretty quickly. She needs a partner with a quick mind, she tends to poke and prod at the emotions and the minds of those who are mentally slower than her, make sure you can keep up to her wit or you will briskly be left behind. Gemini women are so exciting that they are worth the effort, you will remember her forever.

HER BEST MATCH

DEFINITELY: LEO MAN DEFINITELY NOT: GEMINI MAN

DEFINITELY: CAPRICORN MAN DEFINITELY NOT: SAGITTARIUS MAN

DEFINITELY: GEMINI MAN DEFINITELY NOT: CANCER MAN

April 21 - May 21

May 22 - June 21

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CANCER WOMAN

LEO WOMAN

VIRGO WOMAN

The Cancer woman is a very sensual woman with deep emotions and passion brewing underneath the exterior. To reach these will require time, patience and tenderness. She will not make the first move and will not be forward with you, You have to do all the work. Do not try to lead her on because Cancer women are very in-tune with a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motivations. Trust is the single most important thing to Cancer. If you ever betray her trust, you might as well move on. She needs love and security. She is sensual, sweet and flirty. Once there is a solid, secure foundation, the richness of the relationship will emerge. She is oldfashioned, feminine, sensual and patient. If you are the man who can give her what she wants, a relationship with a Cancer woman is wholesome, rewarding and can last a lifetime.

The first step is to give her praise and adoration. The thought of competition with other women completely turns her off, for she is marvellous and grand and better than any other woman (in her eyes)! Be prepared however to compete with other men. She attracts men, deliberately or not, because of her dazzling personality. She makes a good partner because she gives undying affection and love and makes you feel really good about yourself. She is kind and supportive with an adventurous streak, she is always fun to be with. Leo woman will dominate, but she looks up to her man. She is perfect for the man who is affectionate and has a strong character but not too controlling. She needs someone who is passionate about everything in their life and who strives for the best in everything, because so does she.

A Virgo woman is earthly and she may seem cold and detached, but underneath the timid, reserved surface lies the real woman, a strong, passionate woman with a great capacity for strong devoted love. She will play hard to get, she is hard to get for she is worried about exposing her emotional vulnerabilities and getting hurt. She requires patience and you will have to court her and work hard to impress her. Once she is in love, it is for the long term. She will be devoted, loyal and make you very happy and even put a little order in your life. Virgo woman is conservative and old fashioned, a typical woman who is perfect for the man who loves a challenge and likes to take a relationship slow.

HER BEST MATCH

DEFINITELY: PISCES MAN DEFINITELY NOT: ARIES MAN

DEFINITELY: SAGITTARIUS MAN DEFINITELY NOT: SCORPIO MAN

DEFINITELY: SCORPIO MAN DEFINITELY NOT: AQUARIUS MAN

June 22 - July 22

July 23 - August 21

August 22 - September 23

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LIBRA WOMAN

September 24 - October 23

SCORPIO SAGITTARIUS WOMAN WOMAN October 24 - November 22

November 23 - December 22

Libra woman is enchanting and charming. The environment is important for Libra, make sure the first date is somewhere classy and elegant with posh surroundings. Libra will feel at peace and love it. Give her compliments and tell her how much she is appreciated. She may reply bashfully but with each compliment, the radiant glow inside her will shine brighter and brighter. Once the initial seduction is over with and the relationship has become more stable, she will stop her sweet seductive ways, not because she has completely lost interest, but it is because she is lazy in love. She may need a few days away without you, this is like pressing the reset button on the relationship. Be dramatically romantic and make her feel special, which is essentially the most important thing to her.

Scorpio woman is very emotional, very demanding and very demonstrative. She is full of flair and intrigue, a fascinating woman that the strong A-type personality male will adore, for she presents the right amount of challenge with the right amount of rewards. The Scorpio woman is the ultimate seductive, flirtatious woman. She won’t give a man her heart very easily because she is weary of trusting another person. The man will have to go through a series of ‘mental testes’ in order for the relationship to get solid and close. She may not show it, but she wants a close committed relationship. In order for this, the man has to be trusted, has to be affectionate and never try to control her. She is very possessive but the Scorpio woman is so full of mystery, sensuality and passion that most men do not mind being possessed by her.

She has a great attitude and always seems to be on the go. Sagittarius woman is for the man with lots of energy and creativity. She likes unconventionality and change, so whisk her away last second to somewhere unplanned and uncharted and she will remember you forever. In order for her to stay, you have to keep her happy. If she gets unhappy or bored, she won’t bother to fix any problems, she will just walk out and never look back. Fortunately, it is not that difficult to keep her happy. Be her friend, she does not take love too seriously anyway, if you are her companion, love will blossom after that. Let her have her freedom, flirt with her and do not rush her. Be truthful, genuine, positive and adventurous and never play mind games. The lucky man will not only have a wonderful relationship but an adventurous companion as well.

HER BEST MATCH

DEFINITELY: AQUARIUS MAN DEFINITELY NOT: VIRGO MAN

DEFINITELY: CANCER MAN DEFINITELY NOT: ARIES MAN

DEFINITELY: LEO MAN DEFINITELY NOT: TAURUS MAN

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CAPRICORN AQUARIUS WOMAN WOMAN

PISCES WOMAN

December 23 - January 20

January 21 - February 19

February 20 - March 20

The Capricorn woman is perfect for the man who likes a challenge. Deep inside, she is romantic and loving but it takes the right man to expose this. On the outside, she may seem like she does not care much for love. It will take time to get closer to her, never make her rush into a relationship. Be patient because she is. Capricorn woman is very classy, upscale woman. You have to woo her and court her like a lady. Shower her with nice gifts (but not too expensive, she is a very conservative spender and expects you to be also). She will dominate and control the relationship but in her intriguing subtle way, let her take the lead, she won’t steer you wrong. She will lead the relationship in the right direction because she is smart and practical. She will offer you a real, loyal relationship with all the right ingredients for long-lasting love and happiness.

The Aquarius woman is the ultimate independent woman. She is funny, smart, adventurous, never clingy or jealous, never demanding and not overly emotional. She is unpredictable and craves excitement. Anything goes with this woman and any man that she chooses will have an amazing relationship. Do not press her emotionally or tie her down with demands and obligations because this will cause her to run. Never be jealous, this is a big red flag to her and she will leave right away, the Aquarius woman can never be tied down, she is free as a bird. If you give her all she needs, she will be completely faithful so you should not worry when she is out on her own, give her space and respect her privacy and all will be well. Aquarius woman is for the man who loves adventure.

Pisces women are very captivating and fascinating. She makes a man feel like a man because of her need for a protector and leader. She is charming, soft and feminine; the ultimate enchantress. She can see right through a man and she is not easy to fool, so any man better be straight with her and not lead her on, because instead of confronting him, she will simply disappear. She needs to nurture and will give the man orders, but only for his own good. She will make sure he is eating properly and getting enough sleep, sort of like a mother nurturing a child. What she needs in return is a man to protect and cherish her, make her feel like she is needed and loved. Don’t poke fun or tease and definitely do not reject her harshly because she can’t stand rejection. She is extremely romantic and will lose herself in the relationship completely.

HER BEST MATCH

DEFINITELY: VIRGO MAN DEFINITELY NOT: SAGITTARIUS MAN

DEFINITELY: LIBRA MAN DEFINITELY NOT: TAURUS MAN

DEFINITELY: SCORPIO MAN DEFINITELY NOT: VIRGO MAN

We couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t possibly talk boys without talking trainers. And nobody knows trainers like a boy who has an entire collection. Born and bred in London, Craig has been skateboarding for over ten years, eventually landing himself a job in Marketing and PR at Canoe Inc. He knows footwear, he understands brands, and he admires the ultimate classics. Because one thing is for sure â&#x20AC;&#x201C; every bo[d]y has a favourite pair of trainers.

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”

PUMA is a brand that I’ve become a lot more familiar with in the last year, but the Suede is steeped in so much history that it deserves to be here just for that reason. This silhouette has transcended through the decades due to its effortless transition into a skate shoe; you can still see skaters rocking these on any given day. The PUMA Suede feels great on the foot and is what I would consider a safe bet if you’re having one of ‘those days’.

”

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”

OK, so Vans was always going to make it into this list, but I wanted to choose a silhouette that stood out to me growing up. I always loved the Chukka boot and I remember having a pair of the White on White’s just in time for when I started college. They got beaten up real bad but I wore them till they fell off my feet. I don’t think they make these any more… Why not?

”

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”

This was the first pair of Nike SB’s I purchased almost a decade ago at an amazing, but short lived skate shop on Lower Marsh street behind Waterloo station called Cide. The entire upper was made out of a Carhartt canvas material that resembles the traditional workman’s boot colours. It was finished with a peanut butter-coloured mid sole and black out sole. Perfect.

”

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”

Although extremely basic in design, the Adi Ease is one of my favourite silhouettes of all time. And with UK pro skater Benny Fairfax’s name on it - we have a winner. Benny decided to go for a pretty unique shade of ‘prime ink blue’ for his colour way, which worked nicely against the white stripes and stitching. I still consider the Adi Ease as one of the best shoes I’ve ever skated in.

”

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â&#x20AC;?

Oh, if only I had the guts to let these guys see the light of day again. Incredibly popular when originally released, this pair is arguably one of the cleanest early Nike SB Dunk shoes. Everyone loves full suede build dunk highs!

â&#x20AC;?

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”

I can’t forgive Emerica for discontinuing the Leo Romero only to replace it with an updated version that simply doesn’t do it for me. I loved everything about the original Emerica Laced, but the ‘brown suede’ colour way had me head over heels. Finished with an off-white sole and gold-plated eyelets, this was the perfect work, chill, pub and skate shoe all in one. Bring it back. Please.

”

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”

This pair is in here for obvious reasons. Slam City Skates is not only the oldest skate shop in Europe, but my local and has been for many years. The shop has released many collaborations but the Nike SB Slam Dunk is by far the cleanest execution to date. Featuring the classic illustration of the Slam Jesus on the tongue and a map of Covent Garden on the innersoles, this shoe is one for the collection. All that aside, it’s generally a nice colour way. Be sure to check out the Slam collaboration with Emerica Laced designed by my best mate Arran Gregory.

”

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”

I’ve always had a massive soft spot for the Workout silhouette, and (maybe because I’m from greater London) Reebok is a brand that has subtly surrounded me my whole life. So, even though I try not to be ‘that guy’, I was extremely excited when I first heard about this collaboration. Featuring embossed Palace logos on the heel and Palace-print spare laces, it really is the fine details that make this shoe so unique. The new, vulcanized version of the Workout is also worth a mention here…

”

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”

Two things I love in this life is skateboarding and football. Mix the two and I’m all over it. Based on the Adidas Copa Mundial soccer shoe, the Adidas Buzenitz is a bulked out version fit for skate. This pair also featured the longer football boot style tongue (with scissor cut lines on the inside, so you could easily snip it off if you’re not into it). Originally released in black and white with gold stripes, this one reminded me of my youth playing footy in the tennis courts at school. A great shoe to skate in also.

”

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”

In recent years we’ve seen skateboard brands release products and collaborations affiliated with football or other team sports, but when Nike SB FC was released in the early 2000’s, this was still unheard of. The silhouette seemed very experimental and caused quite a stir in the skateboarding world. The most memorable have to be the football team inspired colour ways that included some of the best teams in the world, Man UTD, Juventus, Barcelona and Brazil (who at the time were sponsored by Nike). Each colour way was based on the team’s home or away colours and featured detailed team emblems on the heel. My favourite had to the Barcelona edition… Just look at it…

”

â&#x20AC;?

DUDE

Being a dude is about living life in a constant state of lazy awesomeness.

â&#x20AC;?

- A dude, unknown

Pages by Daphni Kontos

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The Marvel Cinematic Universe is a giant movie franchise of superhero films all set in one commonly shared fictional universe. Its entirety is staged in three different phases, and envelops a total of 21 films over the course of 11 years. The movies are independently produced by Marvel Studios – and are based on the characters from the original Marvel Comics. 26

Ten films later, and this year’s release of Avengers: Age of Ultron marks the halfway point. Who were the characters we’ve already seen, what are their powers and abilities, and when will we see them again? What follows is a concise analysis of some of Marvel’s men (provided by Marvel of course), and their future in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. But the thing to remember about Marvel is that they produce so much more than fictional men; they create heroes.

Real Name: Robert Bruce Banner Height: 5’9”, 175cm (as Hulk: 7’6”, 228cm) Weight: 128lbs, 58kg (as Hulk: 1,150lbs, 521kg)

Real Name: Steven ‘Steve’ Rogers, Cap, Captain Height: 6’2”, 188cm Weight: 220lbs, 99.7kg

ORIGIN

Captain America Comics #1 (1941). Created by cartoonists Joe Simon and Jack Kirkby. Published by Timely Comics, a predecessor of Marvel Comics.

POWERS

Captain America represented the pinnacle of human physical perfection. He experienced a time when he was augmented to superhuman levels, but generally performed just below superhuman levels for most of his career. Captain America had a very high intelligence as well as agility, strength, speed, endurance and reaction time superior to any Olympic athlete who ever competed. The Super-Soldier formula that he had metabolised had enhanced all of his bodily functions to the peak of human efficiency. Most notably, his body eliminated the excessive build-up of fatigue-producing poisons in his muscles, granting him phenomenal endurance.

ABILITIES

Captain America had mastered the martial arts of American-style boxing and judo, and had combined these disciplines with his own unique hand-to-hand style of combat. He had also shown skill and knowledge of a number of other martial arts. He engaged in daily regimen of rigorous exercise (including aerobics, weight lifting, gymnastics, and simulated combat) to keep himself in peak condition. Captain America was one of the finest human combatants Earth had ever known.

APPEARANCES

Chris Evans portrays Steve Rogers in Captain America: The First Avenger (2011), The Avengers (2012), Captain America: The Winter Soldier (2014), Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), Captain America: Civil War (2016), Avengers: Infinity War, Part I (2018) and Part II (2019). He also appears in Marvel One-Shot: Agent Carter (2013) and Thor: The Dark World (2013).

CAPTAIN AMERICA

ORIGIN

Incredible Hulk #1 (1962). Character created by cartoonists Stan Lee and Jack Kirkby. Published by Marvel Comics.

POWERS

The Hulk possesses an incredible level of superhuman physical ability. His capacity for physical strength is potentially limitless due to the fact that the Hulk’s strength increases proportionally with his level of great emotional stress, anger in particular. The Hulk uses his superhumanly strong leg muscles to leap great distances. The Hulk has been known to cover hundreds of miles in a single bound and once leaped almost into orbit around the Earth. He can slam his hands together creating a shock wave, this shock wave can deafen people, send objects flying and extinguish fires. His thunderclap has been compared to hurricanes and sonic booms. The Hulk has shown a high resistance to physical damage, extreme temperatures, mind control, nuclear explosions, poisons, and all diseases. The Hulk also has superhuman endurance. The Hulk’s body has a gland that makes an oxygenated per fluorocarbon emulsion, which creates pressure in his lungs and effectively lets him breathe underwater.

ABILITIES

Dr. Bruce Banner is a genius in nuclear physics, possessing a mind so brilliant that it cannot be measured on any known intelligence test. When Banner is The Hulk, Banner’s consciousness is buried within the Hulk’s, and can influence The Hulk’s behaviour only to a very limited extent.

APPEARANCES

Edward Norton portrays Bruce Banner in The Incredible Hulk (2008). Mark Ruffalo plays The Hulk in The Avengers (2012), Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), Avengers: Infinity War, Part I (2018) and Part II (2019). He also appears in Iron Man 3 (2013).

THE HULK

REAL NAME: Anthony Edward ‘Tony’ Stark Height: 6’1”, 185cm Weight: 222lbs, 100kg (in suit: 425lbs, 193kg)

REAL NAME: Clinton Francis ‘Clint’ Barton Height: 6’3”, 192cm Weight: 230lbs, 104kg

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ORIGIN

POWERS

ABILITIES

Tales of Suspense #39 (1963). Created by writer-editor Stan Lee, developed by scriptwriter Larry Lieber, and designed by cartoonists Don Heck and Jack Kirkby. Published by Marvel Comics.

As Hawkeye – Tales of Suspense #57 (1964). Character created by writer Stan Lee and artist Don Heck. Published by Marvel Comics.

None.

Tony’s body had been enhanced by the modified technoorganic virus, Extremis, but it is currently inaccessible and inoperable. Wounded, captured and forced to build a weapon by his enemies, billionaire industrialist Tony Stark instead created an advanced suit of armour to save his life and escape captivity. Now with a new outlook on life, Tony uses his money and intelligence to make the world a safer, better place as Iron Man. Tony has a genius level intellect that allows him to invent a wide range of sophisticated devices, specializing in advanced weapons and armour. He possesses a keen business mind.

APPEARANCES

Robert Downey, Jr. portrays Tony Stark in Iron Man (2008), Iron Man 2 (2010), The Avengers (2012), Iron Man 3 (2013), Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), Captain America: Civil War (2016), Avengers: Infinity War, Part I (2018) and Part II (2019). He also had a cameo in The Incredible Hulk (2008) and appears via archive footage in Marvel One-Shot: The Consultant (2011).

IRON MAN

Hawkeye is a world-class archer and marksman. His above average reflexes and hand-eye-coordination make him the most proficient archer ever known. He is also trained to throw knifes, darts, balls, bolas and boomerangs. He is natural athlete. He is also formidable unarmed combatant, thanks largely for long-time combat training with Captain America. He also has extensive training as an acrobat and aerialist. Barton is also talented weapon designer, particularly well-versed in variations on basic traditional weaponry such as arrows, blades and hand-thrown projectiles. He has designed and crafted crescent darts, boomerangs, throwing irons, bolas, axes, custom arrows and bows. He is experienced motorcycle rider, Barton was one of the of the most proficient and daring pilots of The Avengers’ supersonic Quinjets and other aircraft.

APPEARANCES

Jeremy Renner portrays Clint Barton in Thor (2011), The Avengers (2012), Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), Captain America: Civil War (2016), and Avengers: Infinity War, Part I (2018) and Part II (2019).

HAWKEYE

Real Name: Thor Odinson. Son of Odin and Gaea of

ORIGIN

POWERS

Asgard. God of Thunder. Height: 6’6”, 201cm Weight: 640lbs, 290kg

archenemy of Thor. God of Mischief. Height: 6’4”, 195cm Weight: 525lbs, 238kg

Real Name: Loki Laufeyson. Adoptive brother and

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Journey into Mystery #112 (1965). Character created by Stan Lee, scriptwriter Larry Lieber and cartoonist Jack Kirkby. Published by Marvel Comics.

Loki possesses physical abilities far superior to humans, an increased lifespan, superhuman strength (able to lift up to 50 tons), immune to terrestrial diseases, and resistant to conventional injury. Loki is perhaps the most powerful sorcerer in all of Asgard. His many magical abilities included shape-shifting (able to gain the basic natural abilities inherent in each form), astral projection, molecular rearrangement, energy blasts, illusion casting, flight (via levitation), telepathy, hypnosis, and teleportation. Loki is immune to most physical injury, and can reattach severed body parts, including his own head. Loki can mystically imbue objects or beings with specific but temporary powers, and enhance the powers of superhumans.

ABILITIES

Loki can magically create rifts between dimensions, allowing him or other objects passage from one universe to another. Most often this rift is between Asgard and Earth.

APPEARANCES

Tom Hiddleston portrays Loki Laufeyson in Thor (2011), The Avengers (2012), Thor: The Dark World (2013) and Thor: Ragnarök (2017).

LOKI

Journey into Mystery #83 (1962). Character created by Stan Lee, scriptwriter Larry Lieber and cartoonist Jack Kirkby. Published by Marvel Comics.

Thor’s strength, endurance and resistance to injury are greater than the vast majority of his superhuman race. He is extremely long-lived (though not completely immune to aging), immune to conventional disease and highly resistant to injury. His flesh and bones are several times denser than a humans. As Lord of Asgard, Thor possessed the Odinforce, which enabled him to tap into the nearinfinite resources of cosmic and mystical energies, enhancing all of his abilities. With the vast magical power of the Odinforce, Thor was even able to dent Captain America’s virtually indestructible shield with Mjolnir.

ABILITIES

Thor is trained in the arts of war, being a superbly skilled warrior, highly proficient in hand-to-hand combat, swordsmanship and hammer throwing.

APPEARANCES

Chris Hemsworth portrays Thor Odinson in Thor (2011), The Avengers (2012), Thor: The Dark World (2013), Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), Thor: Ragnarök (2017) and Avengers: Infinity War, Part I (2018) and Part II (2019).

THOR

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THE ALBUM COVERS BY THE ALBUM

ARTISTS

Written by Jordan Markov

When it comes to album covers, pinpointing the most iconic one – or even attempting to place them in any order of significance – is the same as declaring Van Gogh’s Starry Night as the most iconic piece of art. This is not true, even if it is your personal opinion. When it comes to album covers, certain artists recognised the importance of a visual portrayal of their musical content and rightly took full advantage of that. Ultimately, these musicians solidified a plain inked illustration printed on a sleeve, into an audiovisual time capsule. The fact is that once you set eyes upon one of these illustrations, your mind can effortlessly conjure up Pink Floyd’s Another Brick in the Wall or AC/DC’s Back in Black. That’s what makes an album cover iconic. Making the actual cover always demands quite a bit of creativity and effort. Some artists and bands opt to hire an album designer to present a couple of artwork ideas and, if satisfactory, one of these gets to be on the sleeve. The London-based art design group Hipgnosis, founded and led by Storm Thorgerson and Audrey Powell, have produced the cover art for countless artists and bands, most notable among them being Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, AC/DC, Scorpions, ELO, The Police, Paul McCartney, and Genesis. Nevertheless, there are these odd moments in artistic history when the musician assumes complete control of his album’s visual representation, giving us an even deeper insight into the meaning of his music. When it comes to album covers, what essentially matters (and what is most often overlooked in a holistic approach), is the message and inspiration behind the timeless masterpieces. What follows are the stories of five iconic album artworks where the musicians themselves were the complete overseers of their creation and, in a way, secured their subsequent long-lasting influence.

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Joy Division – Unknown Pleasures (1979)

In 1967, whilst at the University of Cambridge, Jocelyn Bell Burnell detected a rhythmic radio signal coming from the Vulpecula constellation. Believing to be some sort of equipment malfunction, Bell and her supervisor, Antony Hewish, leapt to the conclusion that it was a radio beacon from an intelligent extra-terrestrial civilization – thus calling it LGM-1 (Little Green Men). They soon realised that the distinctive otherworldly radio signal was actually emitted by a pulsar – a highly magnetised rotating neutron star that is twice as dense as the sun with a radius of just 10km – so they renamed it CP1919. Three years later, at the Arecibo Observatory in Puerto Rico (the same massive radio telescope at the end of GoldenEye, which blows up, of course), Harold Craft was pioneering into digital analysis of pulsar data output and produced the iconic image so many have familiarised themselves with. At some point, drummer Stephen Morris picked up a copy of the 1977 edition of The Cambridge Encyclopaedia of Astronomy and found the image, from which point graphic designer Peter Saville transformed it into the seminal cover art that prudently didn’t even need to feature the band’s name.

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The Who – Who’s Next (1971)

Not one, but two tracks from this album ended up as opening songs for the CSI spin-off series, Miami and New York. The cover artwork exemplifies the album’s musical and lyrical content perfectly. It features all the band members walking casually from an industrial concrete piling they had just urinated on at the coal mining town of Easington Colliery, where (persevering with the movie trivia) just over a decade later Billy Elliot was filmed. Interestingly enough, the decision to shoot the image was the result of an in-depth discussion between the bass guitarist John Entwistle and drummer Keith Moon about the film 2001: A Space Odyssey and its director Stanley Kubrick.

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Rage Against The Machine – Rage Against The Machine (1992)

There really isn’t much to say about this one. The album cover depicts a Vietnamese Buddhist monk protesting against the relentless persecution of Buddhist adherents by the South Vietnamese government on a busy Saigon road on June 11, 1963. When shown a picture of the Buddhist monk’s self-immolation, John F. Kennedy said, “No news picture has generated so much emotion around the world as that one.” Which was most probably true at the time, and it earned journalist and photographer Michael Browne of Associated Press the Pulitzer Prize later the same year. But thankfully, just a couple of months after the sacrificial protest, the South Vietnamese government was toppled and Buddhism withdrew to the background as the Vietnam War kept gaining momentum. None of the members of Rage Against the Machine is cited as having suggested this as the cover art for their debut studio album, attesting to their unanimity in decision-making and dedication to their cause.

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Nirvana – Nevermind (1991)

With the temporary name of Sheep as a joke directed towards the people Kurt Cobain expected to buy the record, Nirvana’s second studio album, comprising their most significant work, certainly dons the most retentive album cover. The idea of a lone circumcised boy attempting to grasp a dollar bill on a fishhook underwater came to Cobain as drummer Dave Grohl and himself watched a documentary on water births. He took the idea to their label’s art director, Robert Fischer, who sent a photographer to a pool of babies to take some shots; the image the band finally settled on is that of three-month-old Spencer Elden, the son of the photographer’s friend. Concern was soon raised about the blatant circumcised penis, at which point Cobain stated that the only way he would live to see the photo censored was if a sticker saying “if you’re offended by this, you’re a closet paedophile” covered the penis.

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Pink Floyd - Animals (1977)

Having designed all the previous album covers for Pink Floyd, Storm Thorgerson was tasked with developing the band’s latest album cover. He introduced three ideas to the band, one of which was a child catching his parents in their bedroom “copulating, like animals!” Thankfully, bassist Roger Waters – who, at the time, lived in south London and often drove past the Battersea Power Station – stepped in with the final concept of suspending an inflatable pig between the chimneys of the dwindling power station. On the second day of shooting, the helium-filled, 9m long pink pig called Algie unchained from its moorings, blocked flight paths to Heathrow Airport (grounding all flights), and disappeared from sight. Pink Floyd’s manager, Steve O’Rourke, neglected to book a marksman for that day, as opposed to the previous day where, despite the beautiful sky and timid weather, a picture was not taken with the pig mounted between the chimneys because the assembly team could not finish the job in time. Anyhow, it eventually landed on a rural farm in Kent, with the owner of the farm reporting that it scared his cows to death in his field. After Algie was restored and successfully captured in its intended position on the third day of shooting, Waters and Thorgerson decided to superimpose the pig onto the quaint pictures of the power station taken from the first day, forming the historic cover art we see today.

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THIS

BOY NEXT DOOR

Written by Dima Markova

If you can’t recognise this guy, ask any girl if he looks familiar. His name is Bryan Matthew Sevilla. Or better known as James Deen – currently the most admired, respected and notorious pornographic actor in the world. Take a look at him again. This very average dude with his not-really-memorable features is a superstar performer. It’s highly likely that he has graced your screen in the past (irrespective of what body parts were in focus). At 28 years of age, 1.70cm tall, weighing 68kg, James is the protégé of the modern adult film industry. ‘The porn machine churns out performers to satisfy every fantasy, be it MILF, dwarf, fat, granny, or gang bang. But if you’re interested in watching a young, heterosexual, non-repulsive man engage in sex, James Deen is basically it,’ admits Amanda Hess for Good Magazine.

His ordinariness is what made him stand out. In 2009 James was the youngest man ever to be named the Male Performer of the Year by the Adult Video News (AVN) Awards, pornography’s equivalent to the Oscars. “My over-analytical Jew brain goes, ‘Fuck, I have to win this every year or it goes downhill. I’ve peaked at 20.’” But it didn’t go downhill at all. Since then, Deen has been recognised by numerous awards for his work both as an actor and director. ‘Industry plaudits aside, Deen has managed an order of renown far rarer in the world of pornographic film: He is a male performer people actually know by name,’ says Wells Tower in his profile piece on James for GQ. ‘According to Deen, 10,000 unique visitors peruse his blog every day. Women seem to like him.’

“

Fuck, I have to win this every year or it goes downhill. I’ve peaked at 20.

Women, men, everybody likes him. James is the first porn actor to tightly grab the rising teenage market. His young fans ‘create animated GIFs of Deen’s greatest moves so they can watch him execute them again and again and again without rewinding,’ says Hess. Several even propose marriage, but unfortunately for them, Deen is in a relationship with his work colleague Stoya. Horny girls call him ‘the Ryan Gosling of pornography’, and even though he doesn’t deliberately promote any of his over4,000 films to minors, he is happy to be ‘opening up their sexual experiences.’ In addition to his revolutionary porn star status, James is a meticulous businessman. The James Deen Official Store launched in 2013 and features films, sex toys and his Baby Panda clothing brand. He tries to break ‘the stigma around sexuality’ and regularly acts as a guest lecturer in various colleges in USA. He believes that condoms should be all together eradicated from the porn industry, because they “violate my first amendment rights” and destroy “my artistic vision”. Also because, well… pornography is the safest possible environment for unprotected sex; all performers provide thorough medical test results prior to filming. And now that Deen is the chairperson of the Adult Performer Advocacy Committee (APAC), any of his ideas are a step closer to becoming accepted rules and industry laws. Take a look at him again. James Deen doesn’t display any stardom qualities. Nevertheless, he is a hugely gifted porn actor, a philanthropist, an entrepreneur, a revolutionary leader and a teenage heartbreaker. All this thanks to his exceptional ordinarity, mediocre appearance and natural charm. That and his 22.8cm long penis. (continued on the next page...)

James Deen

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#IAmA male porn star and director. I’m James Deen - Ask me anything! AMA! www.reddit.com/user/IAmJamesDeen [June 25, 2014]

Worst sexual encounter...how did it go? it was just bad. i stopped and started eating a sandwich then ejaculated on the floor for dramatic effect

In your relationships, do you prefer a woman who is filthy in bed, or more on the shy and timid side whom you can explore new firsts with? filthy. i like to destroy mattresses

How does pussy differ? Like being a pussy being wine, you sniff, taste, & swirl? mmmm i don’t even know where to start unpacking this question. are you ok?

What do you think sets you apart from other male adult film stars? I feel like you really stand out and are more of a “household name”. i have no idea. i think it is just because i am weird looking. and i have been in A LOT of porno. but i really have no idea

What porn do you most enjoy yourself? Have you ever rubbed one out to that handsome fucker James Deen? hahahaha i actually have. i edit a lot of my own movies and i shoot the type of stuff i want to see so every now and then it get’s awkward in the editing bay

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What always turns you off? crotchless panties. someone asked this earlier and i didn’t think of it until now

What’s the grossest thing you’ve ever seen on set? subjective. i don’t get grossed out much. some of those bukake things are kinda gross to me i guess

If not too intrusive... What are YOUR hard limits? don’t like clowns and don’t like being fucked up the ass. used to not be ok with being called a bitch but i got over that

What’s the weirdest thing a female fan has said/asked you to do? Being a female fan, I have a few ideas but I’ll keep them to myself. curtsies nothing really weirds me out. i have done some stuff that people would probably think is weird but to me it was nothing weird at all... is peeing in someone’s mouth while they dry hump a giant teddy bear weird? i don’t think so but i can see why others would

How is the porn industry going to continue to innovate and stay relevant when facing so much free amateur porn, piracy, etc.? good question. it is tough. i personally think the adult industry really fucked themselves over in the begging stages of internet porn. they lost the customers trust by doing shady moves like prechecked subscriptions and one click upsells etc etc. i personally try (http://jamesdeen. com winky sound) to run an ethical business where i try to provide quality content and not screw over the costumer. i also intent to create social networking platforms and a better structure to provide an adult viewing service that incorporates more than just my own product. the goal is to create a porno wonderland where people WANT to participate. not a place where you trick people into handing over 30 dollars and hope they don’t notice

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A WORLD WITHOUT FOOTBALL Just for a moment try to imagine a world in which football didn’t exist. The most popular game on our planet was never invented; the ball was never created. No boots, no t-shirts, no posts, no stadiums. No rules, no leagues, no cups. No legends, no transfers, no players. No epic goals. No goals of any kind. No FIFA World Cup, no FIFA EA, no Fantasy Premier League, no FIFA Manager, no form of football federation at all. No billboards, no brand exposure, no overpaid sportsmen, no multibillion dollar industry. No fans. No nothing. Football is nothing without the fans. Fact. There are more than 12,000 stadiums in over 224 countries in the world. Approximately 909.6 million people watched the final match of the 2010 FIFA World Cup between Netherlands and Spain; that’s 909.6 million pairs of eyes seeing the exact same thing, at the exact same time. The estimated number of football fans in Europe, Asia, America and Africa combined totals to 3.5 billion people – exactly half of Earth’s population believing in one game. This phenomenal unity precedes any other and its power is stronger than anything else that brings us together. No football? No, I couldn’t possibly imagine...

”

LOVER

Man up and go down.

”

- The Rule of a Gentleman No. 486

JUST

AFEW

GIRL

SINGERS EVERY MAN SHOULD

KNOW

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THIS IS A LOVE POEM FROM ME TO YOU.

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Every time I think of you, my heart skips a beat. I picture your smile in my mind, your eyes, your hair so neat, the feeling of your touch on me, the sound your caring of I’D GIVE UP MY BALLS voice, FOR YOU. the smell of you perfume in the air. Loving you I have no choice, I think of you in such a way, I never thought I would. The feelings straight from my heart, tell me I’m in love. 44

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Written by Isabella Snow

A newly published study out of Montreal, which set out to ‘scientifically define sexual deviation for the first time ever’, had researchers asking 1,500 Quebec adults (split evenly between men and women) about their biggest sexual fantasies. Published in the Journal of Sexual Medicine, results include facts like 1) Men fantasise more and with greater detail than women and 2) Females are less likely to want their fantasies to come true. But most interesting of all is what researchers found to be the No. 1 fantasy among women: Submission a la Fifty Shades of Grey. Learn more about domination and several other recurring themes found in common female fantasies by reading on. Each of these fantasies can be turned into reality with a relatively small degree of effort on your part. It might take a bit of practice before both of you are truly comfortable acting them out, but the learning stage is just as hot, sexy and satisfying as the fully experienced stage. Remember: Whether you’re dating a puritan or the neighbourhood tart, deep down they share the same basic desires and have similar sexual cravings. (continued on the next page...) 45

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7 domination Your girl doesn’t have to be into whips and chains to fantasise about this one, as it covers a rather broad spectrum of naughtiness, ranging from dominating to being dominated. The latter is a particularly common female fantasy (even for dominant women), which often extends to capture fantasies. Women who fantasise about such things are usually highly sexual, but may feel guilty about their desires. This is guilt which can easily be assuaged with the right kind of encouragement.

5 sex in public Society tends to demand a certain level of modesty and propriety from women and that can really get on a girl’s nerves. The idea of being naughty while random strangers pass by can be a massive turn-on for even the shyest of females. The appeal is partly due to shock value (which makes her feel powerful) and partly due to breaking a massive taboo (which makes her feel wild and wicked). It’s hard to imagine anything more sexually liberating than allowing others to watch you have a good lay. If she’s fantasising about this, it indicates a decrease in sexual inhibition, which probably means she’s ready to take her present level of kink up a notch.

3 sex with a woman The vast majority of women, whether bisexual or not, has at least entertained the idea of having sex with another woman. And of those women, most have fantasised about having hot lesbian sex with a gorgeous, sexy woman. The fantasy may or may not involve allowing a man to watch, but it’s not about having a three-way romp; this is something she imagines on her own, just her and one other female. Fear not: This doesn’t mean she’s into you any less, it simply means she finds the female form sexually stimulating. Surely you can relate?

1 voyeurism While most women don’t really get turned on by the idea of watching others have sex, most of them do get incredibly turned on by the idea of being watched themselves. Perhaps the most common female fantasy along these lines involves being watched in secret. This allows her to maintain her modesty while still indulging her inner vixen. This fantasy can sometimes mean she needs a bit more in the way of attention or it can mean she simply gets off on the performance, rather than the experience. You can satisfy this urge easily enough by videotaping your next sexual encounter.

6 sex with a stranger Hot no-strings-attached sex is a common female fantasy for the simple reason that most women wouldn’t have the nerve to engage in this kind of thing without being fully liquored up. The idea likely appeals to her inner feminist because if she walks into a bar and takes a man home for an all-night shag fest, then she’s a modern, sexually liberated woman whom her girlfriends can admire. What keeps this a fantasy for most women is the fear of post-coital self-judgement at having behaved so wantonly. This type of fantasy is usually found in women who would like to be more sexually free than they currently are.

4 sex with two men There isn’t a woman on earth who doesn’t enjoy being the centre of attention when it comes to the affections of men and this little fantasy doubles the pleasure. The idea of two studs focusing all of their efforts on her sexual experience, making her orgasm over and over again, is a truly common female fantasy. Another facet is being able to fully satisfy two men at the same time, which can make a woman feel sexually potent and powerful. This could just be a fantasy or it could indicate that she feels her current partner isn’t seeing to her needs adequately.

2 role-playing This one covers a lot of ground and it’s important to note that the word ‘role-playing’ doesn’t necessarily denote playing dress-up. Yes, common female fantasies might involve dressing up like a hooker and having their man pick them up on the boulevard, but it could also be as simple as imagining herself as a stripper and giving you a private lap dance. By dressing up like someone else, she can act out her salacious fantasies and this can be very beneficial for a relationship, as it can give a woman the courage to do the things she’s always wanted to do, but never had the nerve to. If she’s mentioning this one, she’s likely ready to add some spice in the bedroom and just needs a little encouragement to get there.

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her Smi le. The sexiest curve of her body is

...but you already knew that...

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â&#x20AC;?

MAN

At his best, man is the noblest of all animals; separated from law and justice he is the worst.

â&#x20AC;?

- Aristotle

Yang Liu. Man meets Woman Published by Taschen (2014) Hardcover, clothbound 13 x 13 cm, 128 pages Images by Yang Liu

” 58

We are living in an age of constant social change, in which the subject of the sexes, in particular, is rapidly evolving in people’s consciousness. Each new generation re-assesses and questions the role models currently in place... It is interesting to see how Man/Woman clichés have indeed changed in our daily lives and to what extent the attributes that were assigned to the sexes in the past, often centuries ago, are still relevant in today’s society. And to consider which desirable role models are already rooted in our thinking but are still in the process of transformation.

”

- Yang Liu

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best weapon

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WEBSITES: VIDEOS SHOPPING PRESS AMUSING LIFESTYLE

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FOR /FROM MEN

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TWO LOST SOULS PHOTOGRAPHY Tomislav Mihailov and Vasil Mavrikov FASHION Mira Bachvarova HAIR & MAKEUP Rumyana and Victoria MODELS Daria and Niki

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BEHIND THE SCENES VIDEO Directed by Niels Eselgroth Music by Nuno Castilho

”

GENTLEMAN

A gentleman is simply a patient wolf.

”

- Lana Turner

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The Rules of a Gentleman Your daily dose of how to be a gentleman. http://therulesofagentleman.tumblr.com/

THE

No.475

THE

No.384

THE

No.178

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

A gentleman looks at his lady the way he sees her the first time, every time.

A gentleman always knows when to stop - or better yet, when to start.

Confidence is sexy. Cockiness is not.

THE

No.273

THE

No.141

No.315

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

Chivalry is the only ‘wingman’ you need.

A good gentleman is smart, but a great gentleman is well educated.

THE

No.331

THE

No.458

THE

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

Forehead kisses.

THE

No.460

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

A good gentleman should be honest to everyone, including himself, at all times.

Always give more than you take.

Never let the influences of the modern world affect your morals, or who you are.

THE

No.289

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

Be a lady’s man, not a ladies man. 78

THE

No.464

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

A gentleman doesn’t have to know the key to success but he does have to know the key to failure is trying to please everybody.

THE

No.192

RULE OF A GENTLEMAN

Every gentleman should have at least one suit in his closet.

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STRIPPING THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN: gentility, chivalry and masculinity

Written by Joe Horner

Gentleman is an elusive term that conveniently lacks proper definition. It appeals to a vague higher ideal that everyone identifies with, but no one can succinctly describe in words. From medieval, civilized Europe to the present day, the label ‘gentleman’ has meant many things to many different people and has never been more recognisably and quirkily parodied than in Victorian England. There’s no centrally, hierarchically organised council just like there’s no actual League of Extraordinary Gentlemen headed by Sean Cannery in a cravat. There’s no Gentleman’s Rule Book, or any concrete guidelines on how to make one for that matter. The origins of this almost uniquely European archetype are distinct and polarized (both martial and romantic, both dutiful and free spirited), which goes some way to explain the complex, ineffable and unobtainable character of a perfect gentleman. The Gentleman: Courtly Love Troubadours dancing, prancing and singing around the princely courts of 12th century Occitania (an area roughly equivalent to modern day Provence, which extended east into northern Italy and west into northern Spain) would use their lyrical poetry to elevate local noble women to poetic, metaphoric goddesses and worship them with verse. It seems like a cliché attempt to flatter the naïve, but against the stark backdrop of medieval Europe with feudalism and Catholicism raging and repressing in equal measure, a troubadour’s song would probably be a magical point of departure from everyday life. In order to put these young performers into their proper historical context, it’s important to note that not all of them were from the high

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nobility (like the Duke of Aquitaine). It was around the time of the Black Death in 1348, and these troubadours were from all strata of educated society: enchanted Dukes, petty nobles, poor knights, worldly craftsmen, sojourning from one court to another under the patronage of princes and princess. They were acting, singing and strumming their way into the hearts, pants and pockets of their wealthy patrons. The troubadours’ artistic movement was centred on the poetic elevation of romantic love and woman as goddess worthy of worship. Does their admiration for women make troubadours the first gentle men? The Gentleman: Duels at Dawn In the slightly more modern sense, a ‘gentleman’ is a far more elusive, eccentric and all together British term. In 19th century Victorian era, it had more to do with martial experience, distinguished coats of arms, family honour and proximity to the Crown than with the arts and seducing the senses through poetry. Definitions provided by dictionaries and lexical entries morph overtime and include everything from one ‘whom, without any title either held or waiting to inherit, bears a coat of arms and whose ancestors up to five generation past have been freemen, such permitted and esteemed to wear a sword as part of ceremonial dress in court’ (1815), to ‘in its original and strict signification, a gentleman is a man of good family’ (1829), and ‘all yee above the rank of yeoman’ (1845). This is more telling of the forces driving paradigm power shifts in Britain at the time. As feudalism started giving way to classical, liberal capitalism, gentility became less about the inherited privileges of the very few, and more about the manners and attitude of the individual man amongst the emerging, and far more prevalent middle classes. The 8th Edition Encyclopaedia Britannica (1856) entry states that ‘by courtesy this title is generally accorded to all persons above the rank of common tradesman whose unrestrained yet delicate manners are manifest by self-respect and intellectual refinement’. As the 19th century came to an end, so did the swaggering blunderbuss of a noble man from good stock. Delicate manners, self-respect and intellectual refinement – those became qualities of a gentleman. The Gentleman: Women and Children First And what comes after the summit of gentility - the closest humanity has ever been to the complex contradiction that is the perfect gentleman? On one hand, the early 20th century

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evokes a sense of nostalgic Englishness: of class, of masculinity, of elegant fashions, of manners, of morals. On the other hand it acts as a dampening reminder of the repressed appetite at etiquette-obsessed Victorian dinner parties. Perhaps the most enlightening and amusing example of what it was to be a gentlemen at the time doesn’t come from lexical attempts at formal definition, which is so far inadequate, but from good deeds and the comments of those who lived to witness them. When Titanic sank on 15th of April 1912, many of her male passengers acted out what it meant for them to be gentlemen. Walter Lord’s, A Night to Remember (first published in 1978) is full of quotes from first-hand accounts of how the Victorian gentleman conducted himself. Dan Marvin was overheard calling to his new wife, “It’s all right, little girl… you go, and I’ll stay a while”; Dr W. E. Minahan entreated Mrs Minahan as he stepped back, “Be brave, no matter what happens, be brave”; and Isidor Strauss declared “I shall not go before the other men”. Some were seen leaning against railings smoking cigarettes and waving goodbye. Others even retired to the first class smoking room with a book whilst prioritised persons disembarked the sinking ship. Particularly powerful and poignant were those who gave away their life jackets to stand resplendent in their evening dress because “they’ve dressed their best … and are ready to go down like gentlemen”. One remarked after his wife pleaded him to join her in the lifeboat, “No dear I couldn’t, I must be a gentleman”. The Gentleman: On Screen and Debonair Gentlemen lived and died according to an ideal that had been developing in Britain for centuries and which was understood, followed, admired and albeit sometimes ridiculed – the world over. Being the media image of the perfect gentlemen today, to be Cary Grant or David Beckham, is predicated on having incredibly classically handsome good looks and a selfconfident authenticity. There is nothing about manners behind closed doors. After so much time spent trying to figure out what qualities make the perfect gentleman, we’re now more lost than ever. In the end, a gentleman could be a king or a shepherd, but who is the judge of that today? It feels like the manly behaviour is just a performance of a myth that never was. Like an actor in a play, with words and actions planned in advance, enrooted in his moral understanding at birth. Are standards in decline? Is it faked, or do modern men actually value delicate manners and intellectual refinement? A true gentleman would know… but only the perfect gentleman would keep his answer to himself.

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21st Century

Fashionable

Male:

from metrosexuals to man-buns Written by Deborah Lampitt-McConnachie

While surfing on Vogue.co.uk, as one does, I happened upon a great little item entitled ‘Meet the New Flamboyant Man’. The gist of the piece was that men in the 21st century are embracing their inner peacock and going for “an unconstrained, frivolous approach to getting dressed” that is all about being “romantically flamboyant”. Think silky red pussy-bow blouse matched with relaxed grey flat-fronted slouchy slim-fitted trousers, and you are on the right track. It’s Marc Bolan meets Keith Richards, and they both have a love child with Faye Dunaway. Here in the new millennium, men’s fashion has (also) come a long way baby. Men often get short shrift when it comes to fashion – or at least what we, Joe Public, think fashion means to them. The coda is often ‘men don’t really care a whit about fashion’; suitability-to-purpose and comfort are all they are interested in, and it has always been so. Except it hasn’t. Since Beau Brummell and before, there have been pockets of maleness that have cared deeply about their fashionability, and much has been said about these trend cliques. Dandies, zoot-suited jazz-ager’s, rockabillies, mods, rockers, punks, Duke of Windsor lookie-likies, classic Hollywood heartthrobs like Cary Grant, and 50’s’esque Don Draper types all wore their sartorial hearts on their sleeves, torsos, etc. But that was then and this is now. We are 15 years into the new century, and are beginning to be able to chart the newest menswear movements with some certainty. 82

Thom Browne A/W 2012

It all started with the metrosexual. While the term was originally coined in 1994 by Marc Simpson in The Independent, this portmanteau (a combination of metropolitan and heterosexual) really came into its own at the turn of the millennium. Simpson originally defined the ‘metrosexual’ thusly: “Metrosexual man, the single young man with a high disposable income, living or working in the city (because that’s where all the best shops are), is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. In the Eighties he was only to be found inside fashion magazines such as GQ. In the Nineties, he’s everywhere and he’s going shopping.” Simpson later recycled the word in an article for Salon Magazine in 2002 to describe dishy and fashion-conscious David Beckham (remember that sarong?!) as ‘the biggest metrosexual in Britain’. ‘Metrosexual’ tapped into the Zeitgeist, and that was that. A new men’s style-tribe was born. Metrosexuals were men who cared about their appearance, consumed clothes from a fashion perspective and weren’t above having a mani-pedi-facial and wearing capri pants without having their masculinity in the least bit threatened. Metrosexual men had fun with clothes, and didn’t care who knew it.

Enter Heidi Slimane, first at YSL and then at Dior Homme and now back at YSL. Masculine fashion went super slim, and before you knew it men were encased in skinny everything. Slimane first had men longing to look like French ‘New Wave’ cinema stars, and his current AW15 collection at YSL - featuring its rock’n’roll and rockabilly influences – will soon have everyone wanting to be part of the band. (Oh, yeah: skinny jeans went supernova.) “I think there are two really big trends that you can’t escape in the 21st Century, military and rock music, in both their various guises,” says Matt Hambly, former Deputy Editor at Esquire. “They certainly aren’t new trends, but they are the ones that have really stood the test of time and been able to endure constant reinvention. They’ve been the underlying themes that have enabled smaller sub trends to emerge like skinny jeans, leather jackets, bomber jackets, military boots, khaki green.” “These two trends are important and popular because they represent opposite but equally masculine ideals. A man in uniform embodies everything that it means to be masculine. If you take it to its logical conclusion, dressing in military influenced clothing infers that you are fit, strong, heroic, willing to die for your country- who doesn’t want, at least at some level, to feel like that? Conversely music is about flamboyance, rebellion, youth and escapism. Everyone wants to be in a band, or at least look like they do, and more often than not, it’s people who actually are in bands who set trends and are willing to take risks. This is what inspires designers, and then, once it trickles down, people.” Let us not forget Thom Browne, who’s contribution to fashion looked like it had been left just a little too long in the dryer. His short jacket and trouser proportions were perfect for creating that hip-nerd look. Complex Magazine, in its online piece ‘The

Gucci A/W 2015

50 Greatest Menswear Brands of All Time’ (writers Jesse Thorn and Derek Guy), describes Browne’s aesthetic thusly: “His suits were a riff on the company man suits of the early 1960s. They were produced in simple, conservative fabrics and colours (often grey flannel), with narrow lapels and a slim body. Most remarkable, though, were the proportions. Browne’s suits still feature comically short bodies and are typically shown with absurdly short trousers. People laughed, then and now, but they also took note. Today’s suits and pants are dramatically shorter in the body and pant than ever before, a trend which can be traced directly back to Browne, and the tendency towards a revived (now cheeky) men’s conservatism has to be attributed in no small part to Browne as well.” Hip Hop has continued to influence menswear’s topography, but today it is more Jay-Z and Kanye West than Dr Dre and Tupac Shakur. Think Kanye wearing Calvin Klein, Tom Ford and Acne Studios for the cover of GQ. Today’s hip hop star is more likely to be slickly suited than droopy trousered. (‘Jobbycatchers’ is how my Scots husband likes to refer to this latter look.) Daryoush haj Najafi, Senior Editor, Complex UK, puts ‘rappers’ at the top of his ‘biggest influence on men’s clothing’ list. “The whole Hip-Hop/Streetwear boom made fashion nerdy enough and masculine enough for men to enjoy,” he explains. “Sales have boomed.” “Right now what we’re seeing is a transition,” explains Elena Romero, author of ‘Free-Stylin’: How Hip-Hop Changed the Fashion Landscape’, in an interview with ABC News. “The original hip-hop artists are getting older now; Jay-Z’s in his forties, so he can’t necessarily dress the way he did when he was 18, but there’s still an urban aesthetic that translates throughout.”

YSL A/W 2015

Givenchy A/W 2015

“The biggest influence on men’s fashion used to be, and still to a great extent is, celebrities - David Beckham and Kanye West especially. If those two are wearing it, so is everyone else,” explains Hambly. “The thing now, though, is other men. Men on the streets, men on Instagram. It doesn’t matter if you’re famous or not, if you look good, men will notice you, take note and then attempt to replicate the look. The other thing is the age of designers. Think about this: the biggest emerging trend at the moment is The Nineties. A sort of grunge influenced, skate look has re-emerged with Doc Marten Boots, plaid shirts cut off at the sleeves or worn around the waist, caps worn back to front…it’s like an episode of ‘Clarissa Explains it All’ out there. Why? Because the people now in positions of influence within the fashion industry came of age in the Nineties and are referencing their childhoods.” Which leads us to hipsters. The anti-fashion fashion trend that has taken over the world in the last decade can be identified by a number of visual clues. Deep vee-neck tees, skinny jeans (the shorter and more distressed the better), thick rimmed glasses (whether you need them or not), plaid flannel shirts and granddad camping cardies are easily spotted across the crowded wine bar. The trend has also been called ‘lumbersexual’ and ‘fauxhemian’, but with hipsters, clothes are (almost) of secondary concern. It is the hair - tonsorial and facial - that really marks them to the tribe. Acres of column

inches have been written about beards and man-buns, but let’s just say this. If you find one or both on a member of the male species, you are likely looking at a hipster. Note: A recent article in www.uk.businessinsider.com tells us that beards, as a trend, may be about to end. Apparently the newest twist on facial hair dying is various technicolour shades, and to quote celebrity groomer Diana Schmidtke, “the dyed beard is so hokey, it’s like signalling there isn’t anywhere left to go”. The London Evening Standard has also just published a piece entitled ‘Death of the hipster: why London decided to move on from beards, beanies and fixie bikes’. But maybe don’t plan the funeral just yet. “The hipster trend as a theme is never going to go away,” says Matt Hambly. “It might change its guise from people with beards and check shirts and tattoos to something else, but there will always be people who dress in a certain, supposedly edgy, way in order to signal that they belong to a certain group of people. Whether it actually means they do or not is irrelevant.” “The style motifs of the hipster have changed over the last 15 years and will continue to do so,” agrees haj Najafi. “If however we are discussing certain motifs, the ‘angry middle class hairdresser searching for authenticity through a bastardised 84

folk memory of Ed Hardy/Jack Kerouac’ is probably over just because everyone has tatts, beard, etc. – fashion was ever thus.” Haj Najafi additionally cites ‘high fashion sportswear and sportswear worn in a high fashion context’ as a huge trend in 21st century menswear, a sentiment echoed by a number of fashion experts. A recent piece by Rebecca May Johnson on website The Business of Fashion asked: “Will High Fashion’s Love Affair with Streetwear Last?”. The answer, Johnson discovered, is a resounding yes. The article examines the double-edged influence referred to above by haj Najafi, spotlighting luxury labels like Chanel, Balenciaga and Givenchy who frequently incorporate street/sportswear elements into their high end collections, as well as streetwear labels like Hood by Air taking inspiration from edgier high-fashion catwalk designers like Helmut Lang and Raf Simons. In the article, experts (including meber-PR Mandi Leonard, Financial Times menswear critic Charlie Porter and Complex fashion editor Matthew Henson) all agree. Streetwear is not going anywhere. It is ‘real wear’ that reflects how modern men approach both how they dress and how they shop, to the extent that it has moved on to become a new genre that could easily be called ‘luxury sportswear’.

Pull & Bear Heritage Men’s Hipster Collection A/W 2013. Opposite page: Kanye West for GQ; David Beckham models his range for H&M.

Social Media has also played a huge part in men’s fashion in the 21st century, to the point it can be considered a trend in and of 85

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itself. “Instagram meant everything became visual culture and therefore fashion became bigger; more interesting,” explains haj Najafi. “There are way more mediums for the discussion of trends now so they move faster.” Hambly agrees. “Trends are moving much, much faster and they no-longer necessarily represent a sub-culture or stem from a particular place. The internet has opened up the world and with it, its various communities and scenes. If you want to know about what kids are doing in Michigan, or Nottingham or Shanghai or Brisbane, you can. It means that trends are becoming global as well as local. Retailers have responded in kind and now offer fast moving trends that respond to influences from all over the world. It often means that the high-street is at least on par with, if not ahead of catwalk designers. I think it’s a good thing - trends for everyone!” “Trends are quick. Social media is sometimes a wonderful tool as it connects the world to a youth who can often feel isolated when they are in remote parts of the world,” adds Londonbased menswear designer Oscar Quiroz. But there is a downside. “What it also does is end the cycle of a trend before it has time to truly flourish,” says Quiroz. “What would have happened to punk, rave or the house music scenes and their respective imagery if social media was around? The look would have come and gone in a matter of months. Not years. A look is cemented when it’s surrounded by life. Art, literature, imagery and - most importantly for me - music. [Today] everybody wants a quick fix.” Lastly, and referring back to our aforementioned pussy-bowblouse-wearing boys, according to haj Najafi “the ending of gender boundaries is obviously insanely important. Skirts on men,” he continues, “men in womenswear, which is not actually the same thing.” “For me the final realisation is that in the 21st century what it IS to be a man and what it IS to be a woman are finally changing and merging at the same time,” says Quiroz. “This trend is important as it’s not about the modern man, the heritage man or the hunter/gatherer. This is about men, all men, being allowed to have a voice and say that they too are necessary. Masculinity shouldn’t be relying on cartoon imagery anymore. At the end of it, men are the same. Biologically we are ‘masculine’.”

Technicolour dyed beards; Hood by Air A/W 2015. Opposite page: Rick Owens A/W 2015.

As for those men who claim not to give a damn about fashion, well, here’s a little story. My husband is one, yet he will trawl online for hours to hunt down exactly the right retro-edgy 60’s cut shirt from companies like King Kerosin, Skull Sports or Daddy-O’s. He will also happily drop $250 bucks on the right pair of Salomon’s, and usually buy two pairs. The secret is out. All men actually care about their clothes; it’s just that a lot of them don’t want anyone to know.

JUST

AFEW

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TO FOLD

A POCKET SQUARE

ONE-POINT FOLD

PRESENTED BY REAL MEN REAL STYLE

TWO-POINT FOLD

THREE-POINT FOLD

FOUR-POINT FOLD/THE CAGNEY FOLD

THE PUFF FOLD

THE WINGED PUFF FOLD

THE SCALLOP FOLD

THE DUNAWAY FOLD

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SIR

A good old man, sir. He will be talking. As they say, when the age is in, the wit is out.

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- William Shakespeare

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Sigmund

Freud

A misunderstood man.

1234567SIR Written by Aneta Lalova

Time Magazine referred to Freud as one of the most important thinkers of the last century. And rightly so. He reformed our understanding of human behaviour; from our thoughts and dreams, to our unconscious body language. Ironically, Freud was widely ridiculed for his own scandalous behaviour during the uptight Victorian time, leaving people sceptic about the authenticity of his principles. So, is he merely a cocaine addict blabbing on, or a misunderstood revolutionary of his time? Sigmund Freud has influenced all disciplines of study, from art and history to biology and literature. Surprisingly though, you can’t find his work in a single psychology course… He is praised for founding psychoanalysis, for his theories on the ego and dreams, yet the Freud wars have actually destroyed him in the field. Is he the Darwinian equivalent of psychology? It sure seems so from his idea of homo homini lupus – man is

Freud’s complex ideas mean that when you find yourself in a situation where you really want something and can’t go without it, you do everything to immediately satisfy your need. The newest model of sports car costs a lot, and the most primitive part of your id is absolutely ready to buy it, but your ego superimposes and you wait until you feel you’ve earned it. To put it more simply, the ego has to satisfy the id, whilst staying in the limits of the superego. This means your id has the urge to find the first attractive female to satisfy eros – our sexual drive. Then the ego allows you to achieve that, but in an ethical way, and eventually the superego considers how you treat the woman. Of course, we can’t talk Freud – without talking sex. If he has proposed such a detailed and intuitive model of our drive for satisfaction, why is it not acceptable nowadays? Actually it is, just in a more sophisticated way, because for some reason

“The mind is like an iceberg, it floats with one-seventh of its bulk above water” ~ Sigmund Freud

wolf to man or aggression is the solution to everything from our internal struggle to find the balance between our actions and our created morals and values, to finding the right sexual partner. Darwin sugar coated it, saying that our two basic needs are survival and reproduction and we do everything to achieve these needs, the end justifying the means. Freud puts it into a different perspective. He exposed the crude truth by studying our behaviour from a deeper level, one concerned with complex conscious processes. This didn’t go down well with the general public of Darwinian followers, branding Freud as a rebel of science who forms ambiguous concepts based on debatable research. On a certain level, Freud’s theory on personality (comprised by the id, ego and superego) relates directly to Darwin’s idea of all our actions done for our need to survive and to fulfil our basic needs. A new-born child possesses only the id, the primitive, instinctive and impulsive part of our personality that ensures our survival largely on an unconscious level. The id is dependent on pleasure; we act on our instincts for satisfaction and we experience pain when we are not satisfied. Later on we develop the ego, which imposes reality on our id, abiding to a larger extent to morals and values, but still driven towards satisfaction. And finally, the superego; our absolute conscience that controls the other two components. The superego makes us aware of others, our behaviour and ultimately, the consequences of our actions.

we don’t want to admit that all we want is sex. Has Freud’s personality theory been translated to fit our modern beliefs as well as validate them? The self-discrepancy concept is the updated version, where the id, ego and superego have been replaced with the actual, ideal and ought self. It’s the idea of how we actually see ourselves (actual), how we would like to see the self (ideal), and how we think we should be (ought). We suffer if there’s a big discrepancy between the three, but they don’t control each other. A bit more modern than Freud’s, isn’t it? Still – the main goal is achieving satisfaction. Obviously Freud is known for much more than these few concepts, namely his theories on dreams, and everything else proposed in his vast range of work. Yet modern psychologists haven’t found any verified basis for many of his ideas. These parallels between his ideas and theories about evolution and personality are merely correlations, which have undoubtedly remained unsubstantiated by the scientific community. Even though Freud’s theories don’t scientifically uphold nowadays, he has nevertheless furthered psychology by providing a foundation for modern therapeutic practice, forming a structured approach to the concept of the self, and bringing attention to the otherwise disparaged personality and general psychological disorders. An addict or a rebel, Freud will forever remain both a revolutionary thinker and sadly – a misunderstood a man.

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Pages by Victoria Yaprakova

Texas Hold’em Poker

Rules

The most popular form of poker today

Each player starts with two hole cards; there are three rounds of community cards, with betting after each round. The best five-card hand using any combination of the five community cards and two hole cards wins the pot.

Dealer gives each player (including himself) two hole cards Hold’em is played with what is known as a rotating dealer, meaning a player will act as the dealer for one hand, handing the role of dealer to the player on their left when the hand is completed. Hole cards are the two cards dealt face-down to each player.

Each new hand begins with a small blind and a big blind In Hold’em poker there are two blinds: a small blind (directly to the left of the dealer) and a big blind (directly to the left of the small blind). A blind is a forced, blind bet placed into the pot before the deal begins. Both the bet and the player can be referred to as big blind and small blind.

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First round of betting Generally, the big blind is equal to the minimum bet. The small blind is half the big blind. The player to the left of the big blind is the first to act during this round of betting. If any players call the big blind, the big blind is then given an extra opportunity to raise (increase the size the existing bet) or to check (decline to make a bet).

Once the first round of betting is complete, the dealer then puts out the flop. There is a round of betting. The flop are the first three community cards dealt face up in the centre of the table and shared by all players. At this point, each player has four options; to check, to raise, to call (match a bet or match a raise) or to fold (discard oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand and forfeit interest in the current pot).

The dealer then puts out the turn. There is a round of betting. The turn is the fourth community card. Each player decides whether to check, raise, call or fold.

The dealer then puts out the river. There is a final round of betting.

Hands

The river is the fifth and final community card. After the last round of betting, the person with the best hand wins the pot. A player is never required to expose his cards when folding or if all others have folded.

Royal Flush

10, Jack, Queen, King and an Ace, all of the same suit. This is the highest hand in poker.

A K Q

A royal straight flush is a subset of all straight flushes in which the ace is the highest card (i.e.Â 10-J-Q-K-AÂ in any of the four suits). Thus, the total number of royal straight flushes is 4.

J 10

Straight Flush 8

7 6

Four of a Kind

5 cards in a sequence, all in the same suit Each straight flush is uniquely determined by its highest ranking card. These ranks go from 5 (A-2-3-4-5) up to A (10-J-Q-K-A) in each of the four suits. The total number of straight flushes is 40.

4 cards of one rank, one in each suit Any one of the 13 ranks can form the four-of-a

5 Q

Full House K

K K 10 10

3 cards of one rank + 2 cards of another rank The full house comprises a three-of-a-kind and a pair. The triple can be any one of the 13 ranks, and consists of three suits. The pair can be any one of the remaining 12 ranks, and consists of two suits. The total number of full houses is 3,744.

Flush

5 cards all of the same suit

The flush contains any five of the 13 ranks, all of which belong to one of the four suits, minus the 40 straight flushes. The total number of flushes is 5,108.

Straight More on the next page

kind by selecting all four of the suits in that rank. The final card can have any one of the 12 remaining ranks in any suit. The total number of four-of-a-kind is 624.

5 cards in sequential rank in at least two different suits The straight consists of any one of the 10 possible sequences of five consecutive cards. Each of these

J 10 9

five cards can have any one of the four suits. Finally, as with the flush, the 40 straight flushes must be excluded. The total number of straights is 10,200.

Three of a Kind

3 cards of the same rank + 2 unmatched cards

Q Q Q 9

Any of the 13 ranks can form this hand, which can contain any three of the four suits. The remaining two cards can have any two of the remaining 12 ranks, and each can have any of the four suits. The total number of three-of-a-kind is 54,912.

Two Pair

2 cards of the same rank + 2 cards of another rank

The pairs can have any two of the 13 ranks, and each pair can have two suits. The final card can have any one of the 11 remaining ranks in any suit. The the total number of two-pair is 123,552.

One Pair

2 cards of one rank + 3 unmatched cards The pair can have any one of the 13 ranks in any

A A

High Card A Q 7

two of the four suits. The remaining three cards can have any three of the remaining 12 ranks, and each can have any of the four suits. The total number of one-pair is 1,098,240.

Any 5 cards not qualifying as another hand

That is, the complement of the union of all the above hands, where the universe has any way to choose five out of 52 cards. Thus, the total number of no-pair hands is 1,302,540.

”

DON

Great men are not born great, they grow great.

”

- Don Vito Corleone

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IT’S CIGAR TIME The Compendium

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CIGAR SHAPES, SIZES AND WRAPPERS Written by Bobalu

A cigar is measured by length and ring gauge (diameter). The length is measured in inches. The ring gauge is measured in units of 1/64th of an inch. A 64-ring cigar would be one inch in diameter. Most cigars are between 32 and 52-ring size. For example, a cigar that is called “8 x 48” is 8 inches long and 48/64ths of an inch in diameter. The girth determines how much of the cigar’s burning tip is exposed to air. The fatter the cigar, the slower and cooler a cigar smokes because more of the filler is exposed to air. The shape is the length balanced with a particular ring gauge. Shape, size and wrapper determine the character of a cigar.

Double Claro, Candela, Jade, or American Market Selection (AMS)

– after leaf is picked in the field it is artificially heated creating a light green hue. They are generally flavourless and bland wrappers.

Natural or Claro – to protect the leaves from sunlight, which would cause a

darkening of the leaf, the tobacco is grown under cheesecloth. Once fully matured, it is allowed to dry naturally and slowly, creating a light brown colour. These leaves create a silky, tan wrapper with a light, delicate, and distinctly smooth taste.

Colorado Claro or English Market Selection (EMS) – a slightly darker wrapper than a natural with a slight dark reddish hue. It has more flavour than a natural cigar, with a slightly spiced or nut-like taste.

Colorado – this is not a special variety of tobacco, it is usually grown in Connecticut, but the leaf has an oily reddish leaf with exceptional colour and flavour.

Maduro or Spanish Market Selection – a very dark brown, oily leaf with a

sweet pronounced taste known for its fullness and richness. Darkness is caused by leaving the leaf on the tobacco plant as long as possible and left to air-dry naturally. After dried it goes through a process in which it is treated with heat to draw out the oils and cook the tobacco. The oils are then allowed to retreat back into the cigar. Each time this process is repeated the leaf becomes darker and darker. The wrapper sometimes has small veins and bumps on the wrapper because of the type of tobacco used.

Double Maduro, Oscuro, or Maduro Maduro – an almost jet-black wrapper with a very rich, pronounced, spicy flavour. The leaves go through an even more extensive processing than Maduro. Expect a bumpy somewhat veiny appearance.

100

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101

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THE MAKING OF A CIGAR Written by J.A. Shapira

Regardless of the shape or size of a cigar, like a human skeleton, cigars have an anatomy that binds the tobacco together, ensuring consistency and reliability industry-wide. In addition to using premium tobacco, the construction of the cigar is inherent to a quality smoke. One of the most common questions I’m asked by visitors to my home, is “why would you spend so much money on just a cigar?” It’s vital to understand that creating a single cigar is not a science. In fact, it’s an art. It’s a process that takes years from the initial planting of the seed to the final rolling. Soil is expertly selected by hand by men who have dedicated their lives and careers to the field. When you take into consideration how much time a farmer spends in his potato or corn fields, remember that a single potato or cob of corn isn’t going to cost you $50 at the store. Once the soil is finally selected, the seeds are planted and grown. While there are a number of seeds used worldwide, the two most common are the Corojo and the Criollo. Both have been used for centuries in cigar manufacturing and today, there are many hybrids used in an effort to perfect the process. The Corojo, is a Cuban tobacco plant that is grown under cheesecloth in an effort to diffuse light and typically used for cigar wrappers. From top to bottom leaf classifications: Coronas, Centro Gordo, Centro Fino, Centro Ligero, Uno Y Medio, and Libre de Pie. The Criollo is also a Cuban tobacco plant which is grown using direct sunlight and is primarily used for the filler and the binder. Criollo plants produce six or seven pairs of leaves: the Ligero, Seco, Volado, (all fillers) and Capotes (binders). Initially, they are closely monitored in individual beds or sometimes, in a temperature controlled green house. Once they’ve matured enough that they can be moved, the farmers will carefully pluck them from their resting place and replant them in an open tobacco field where the natural warmth of the sun can properly raise them. During the “raising”, tobacco farmers will repeatedly inspect them, carefully cutting the shoots and ensuring a stable growth. Relying on a keen eye of a master tobacconist, the harvest is expertly timed based on a variety of factors and the tobacco leaves are only brought into the barns under superlative conditions. Simple flaws such as a blemish, discolouration or cracks can immediately render the leaves unusable and only the most optimal leaves are chosen for construction. Once the leaves are

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picked from the fields by hand, a process that can often take an entire day, they are hand stitched together in groups of two and hung to dry for a couple of months where they transform from their fresh green to an almost oily brown. Following a fermentation process where the leaves are constantly monitored and assessed in an effort to rid them of their natural toxins, the bales of tobacco are aged in large temperature controlled warehouses for at least two years. Only when they are finally ready, will the tobacco artists open the bales and “case” them. Casing is a process where the tobacco is showered by mist or placed in high humidity to moisten the dry leaves so they become pliable and don’t crack during the rolling process. Days later, the leaves are deveined where the stems are gently removed either by hand or machine. Then, the tobacco is separated based on strength and type. Once all the tobacco is ready to be rolled, the Master Blender will prepare the leaves based on the required proportions each cigar recipe demands. The leaves are placed in cedar boxes on each Rollers workstation. At this time, the Roller is given a recipe for the cigar which details the exact specifications of the cigar they’re required to construct. In the majority of cigars, three or four different types of leaves are used in the blend and are pressed firmly together and folded until they form tubes with a small hole down the middle to draw smoke from. After the filler is constructed, the binder is constructed and rolled firmly around the blend of tobacco leaves which have already formed a cigar-like appearance. In most cases, but not all, a single artist is responsible for rolling an entire cigar. At other times, there is a Roller as well as a Buncher who is responsible for making the filler and binder that the Roller than rolls into the casing or outer wrapper. At this time the cigar is placed in a wooden mould where a hydraulic press condenses the bunches for half an hour to an hour. A special apparatus is inserted into the cigar which acts a vacuum to determine the quality of the draw. After the cigar is pressed, the mould is opened and the cigar is taken out and placed in the outer wrapper leaf. A Master Roller will then hand roll the leaf around the cigar, continually checking for consistency throughout the cigar. It is then passed to a quality control specialist who examines the cigar before approving it for sale. Even the smallest defect will render the cigar unusable requiring the process to begin again from scratch. Once the cigar has been approved, a cap made of some pre-cut leaf is placed on the head of the cigar or the end is folded overtop as a flap. At this time, the cigar is inspected again first visually, before it is smelled and touched to ensure consistent quality. Then, if the cigar is not rejected, it is weighed in a bunch of 25 or 50 to see if there are any inconsistencies throughout the bunch. If just one cigar is off, the entire bunch will be rejected and the process will start again. Once the cigars are finished the rolling process, they’re transferred into a temperature controlled room called the aging room where they rest anywhere from a month to a year or more. This process allows the tobacco to rest and marry similar to a fine wine or spirit. Finally, the cigars are placed on open workspaces where they’re sorted into Spanish cedar boxes of 25 based on colour consistency amongst the sticks. The Sorter also acts as a final inspector ensuring none of the cigars have succumbed to disfigurement during the aging.

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THE MOST EXPENSIVE CIGARS Written by Edwin Kaguri

The world’s most expensive cigar is yet to be released. A box of Gurkha’s HMR Reserve will go for $30,000 and there is a three year waiting list. The cigar is made from 18-year-old tobacco and soaked in the most expensive cognac.

Louixs, $50

This cigar has been labelled by critics as the finest that money can buy. Manufactured by the Goldwin Metropolitan Company, the cigar is usually sold as a single stick. It has a ring size of six inches.

King of Denmark, $75 This cigar is usually made on order. In a single day, the company only produces approximately 30 King of Denmark cigars. They’re normally wrapped using gold foil bearing the name of the client. The cigars can also be personalised with a diamond, gold and silver crown for a cost of $4,500.

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Fuente Don Arturo AniverXario, $78 This cigar was created in 2001 but was released seven years later in 2008. The president of the company, known as Carlito Fuente, created the cigar brand in memory of his father, Arturo. For a box of 46 sticks, expect to pay $7,500.

Arturo Fuente Opus X “A”, $79 This cigar is one of the rarest in the market. Its length is 9.2 inches while its ring size is 43 inches. The Arturo Fuente Opus “A” is sold as a single stick at selected cigar shops worldwide. It can also be purchased from few online retailers.

Cohiba Behike, $470 The Cohiba Behike measures 7.5 inches long and has a 52-inch ring size. It first hit the market in 2006 and the company only manufactured 100 pieces then. Currently, plans are underway to release different brands of the same cigar that will retail at cheaper prices.

Gurkha Black Dragon, $1,150 This is currently the most expensive cigar on the market. It is available at a size of 8.5 inches long and 52-inch ring size. The bone chests in which they come in are hand carved. They’re rarely available and can only be purchased at selected cigar shops worldwide.

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THE GUIDE TO CIGAR ETIQUETTE Written by Luzzie Normand

While many gentlemen smoke cigars, not all cigar smokers are gentlemen. The mark of a true gentleman is his ability to smoothly navigate any social situation. To do this, he must familiarise himself with etiquette - including the etiquette that governs the smoking of cigars. This is a list of rules that a gentleman always follows while preparing to smoke, while smoking or while extinguishing a cigar. A Gentleman Always Asks Permission Outside of being in a smoke shop, always ask permission from those around you before lighting a cigar. It’s important to remember that not everyone derives as much enjoyment from cigars as you do. Some people have respiratory problems that make it difficult for them to be around second-hand smoke. Others simply can’t abide the smell. Whatever the particulars of the situation, you have a social obligation as a gentleman to do what you can to ensure the comfort of those around you. If you ask to smoke a cigar and the answer is no, do not badger or demand explanations from the person who refused you—it negates the original purpose of asking.

A Gentleman Always Brings Enough to Share Cigars are like tires: you should always have a spare. You can’t enjoy something as good as a cigar in public without being reasonably sure that someone else is going to ask you for one, and there’s absolutely nothing worse than a stingy cigar-smoker. You don’t need to be passing out $50 Royal Salomones at parties, but you do need to make sure you come prepared to demonstrate your generosity when the occasion calls for it. The sharing of cigars should be wordless. You should never beg or hassle someone for a cigar. If you want a cigar that badly, you should be carrying your own. Likewise, when you offer someone a cigar, the offer should be made silently; hold out an open cigar case and let the person decide for themselves whether or not they want one.

A Gentleman Knows How to Hold His Cigar Don’t hold your cigar between your index finger and your middle finger. A cigar is not a cigarette and it shouldn’t be held like one. A cigar should be held between your thumb and your index finger. Under no circumstances should you use your cigar to gesture or point at another person or at an object in the distance. It’s dangerous and it’s not what your cigars are intended for.

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A Gentleman Never Lights Another Gentleman’s Cigar People who have never smoked a cigar before often operate under the mistaken assumption that it is polite to light another person’s cigar for them. This is an understandable and easily-forgivable mistake, but it’s still a mistake. If you light another person’s stogie, you run the risk of ruining the flavour by accidentally forcing them to draw too hard on their cigar. Unless specifically requested, let others light their own sticks.

A Gentleman Never Chews His Cigar Nobody likes a slobbery cigar. Chewing on your cigar moistens the wrapper and increases the likelihood that your cigar will fall apart while you smoke it. It also makes a mess. Bits of tobacco get into your mouth or spill onto the front of your shirt. Lastly, it makes the tobacco damp and heavy, restricting air flow and ruining the flavour of your cigar. If you really need something to chew on, save yourself $6 and invest in a pack of gum. Also, please don’t talk with a cigar in your mouth. At best, it’s rude and at worst, it sounds like you’re talking with a mouthful of marbles and makes otherwise intelligent conversation difficult.

A Gentleman Knows That Smoking a Cigar is a Leisurely Activity Never smoke a cigar while walking, driving or working. A good cigar should be a gift you give yourself after a hard day or an unexpected bit of good news. Smoking a cigar should be something you set aside time to do, not something you do when you’re already occupied. There’s no point in smoking a cigar if you’re so distracted by whatever else it is you’re doing that you forget to appreciate the flavour and experience.

A Gentleman Takes His Time When smoking a cigar, the aspiring gentleman should be careful not to draw on his cigar more than once a minute. If you smoke a cigar too quickly, you could risk overheating your cigar and ruining its flavour. Besides, what’s the rush? If you don’t have time to properly enjoy the cigar you are smoking, then you don’t have time to smoke a cigar. In these situations, it’s usually best to keep your cigar stowed away until you have the time to appreciate it properly.

A Gentleman Doesn’t Chain-Smoke Cigars Chain-smoking cigars is almost as blasphemous as chewing on them. Cigars are not cheap cigarettes and they should not be treated as such. Many people say that you should wait at least fifteen minutes between cigars. Personally, I think you should wait thirty—especially if the cigar you’re going to smoke is a different brand from the one you just finished. Give your palate time to cleanse itself so you can get the most out of the next cigar you smoke.

A Gentleman Doesn’t Crush Cigars in Ashtrays When you smoke a cigar, the tobacco inside the cigar amasses oils and tars that are contained by the cigar wrapper. When you stub your cigar out in an ashtray, it splits the wrapper, which causes your cigar to smoulder and release a foul-smelling plume of smoke. If you’re finished smoking your cigar, simply let it go out on its own and discreetly dispose of the stub. Some people claim that, if you let your cigar go out on its own, you can return to it within the hour and relight it without ruining the flavour. I wouldn’t recommend it, but it’s certainly better than trying to relight a cigar that’s been stubbed out. Cigars that have been stubbed out and relit taste like the ashtrays you put them out in—devoid of flavour and utterly unenjoyable.

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Lost Craft of Pocket Watches The

From the 16th century to the time of WWI, pocket watches represented not only the most popular type of portable clock design, but also a fundamental part of male fashion. Each hand-crafted piece is unique and in most cases its long and fascinating history can trace it all the way back to the watchmaker. Pocket watches symbolised class and status; they were personalised, signed, embellished and passed down generations. Years have gone since the glory days of these (actually) practical jewels; technology transformed the watchmaking industry and sadly - the craftsmanship and handiwork required for the production of pocket watches vanished. Today, well preserved, antique pocket watches are rare, but not impossible to find. Looking at the following few pages, just remember â&#x20AC;&#x201C; made by hand. 108

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Ottoman Empire Pocket Watch Made in England circa 1850. Entirely hand-crafted. Porcelain dial with enamel detail. Signed in Arabic. Silver case with chain fob detail. Original hallmarks on lids. Openwork, hand engraved movement. Fully functioning, antique mechanism.

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Henchos Freres Chronograph Made in Switzerland in 1892 by Henchoz Freres (the best watchmakers in Lucerne canton). Used by jockeys participating in prestigious horse races. Very rare and entirely hand-crafted. Porcelain dial featuring two smaller dials: one for minutes and the other for ten-minute countdown (running backwards). Not signed. Open face, gilded case. Presented by â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Le Tattersall Chronographeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, featuring signature saddle and whip hallmark.

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LIP Doctors Pocket Watch Made in France circa 1890. Chronograph stop watch tachometer. Rare chronograph, porcelain dial. Two small dials. Chronograph signed on the upper corner ‘calcule par 1000 metres de distance’. Stainless steel case. Original hallmarks on lids. Back lid features the original manual on how to work the tachometer, ‘Maniere de se servir du cadran tachymètre’.

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Hebdomas 8 Jours Made in Switzerland circa 1890 by Hebdomas. The porcelain dial is signed: ‘8 jours Hebdomas’ (8 days) and features silverplated dog and arrow detail. The only model with a visible balance. Winding holds for a week. Hand-crafted. Silver, open face case. The main spring barrel is decorated with four gilded medals from Milan 1916, Chicago 1902, Genève 1890, Paris 1900. Signed ‘SPIRAL BREGUET, LEVEES VISIBLE, 8 JOURS, ANCRE, QUALITE, SUPERIEURE, GARANTIE’.

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Pocket watches provided by topc2009 117

1234567BOY INDEX WHAT WOULD THE LITTLE PRINCE SAY? [8]

Text and image: de Saint-Exupery, A. 2009, The Little

Prince. Egmond UK Limited, London.

DATING A STAR SIGN [9]

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Available from: <http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_eye/2014/08/22/man_ meets_woman_by_yang_liu_uses_picto grams_to_explore_the_differences_between.html>. [Accessed: February 15, 2015]. Images: Best weapon, Yang Liu Design pictogram, viewed February 15, 2015, Available from: <http://www. fastcodesign.com/3034703/the-battle-of-the-sexes-reduced-to-pictograms#4>. Mysterious objects, Yang Liu Design pictogram, viewed February 15, 2015, Available from: <http://www.fastcodesign.com/3034703/the-battle-of-the-sexesreduced-to-pictograms#5>. Single focus – multitasking, Yang Liu Design pictogram, viewed February 15, 2015, Available from: <http://www.fastcodesign.com/3034703/the-battle-of-the-sexes-reduced-to-pictograms#3>. TWO LOST SOULS [63] Original photo shoot for Seven. Team: Tomislav ‘Chocho’ Mihailov and Vasil Mavrikov (photography), Mira Bachvarova <http://www.mirabachvarova.com/bg/home.html> (Fashion), Rumyana and Victoria (Hair & Makeup), Daria and Niki (Models). 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Images: David-Beckham-photo-shoot-style-H&M Modern-Essentials, H&M photo shoot Spring 2015, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <http://www.thefashionisto.com/david-beckham-hm-modern-essentials-spring-2015/davidbeckham-photo-shoot-style-hm-modern-essentials-spring-2015-001/>. David-Beckham-photo-shoot-style-H&M Modern-Essentials-Spring-2015 - 007, H&M photo shoot Spring 2015, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <http:// www.thefashionisto.com/david-beckham-hm-modern-essentials-spring-2015/david-beckham-photo-shoot-stylehm-modern-essentials-spring-2015-007/>. Enjoy Style, n.d. photograph, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <http:// fashionstrends.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/enjoy-style-1024x600-640x375.jpg>. Green Beard, Armin Mohrbach photograph, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <http://cdn.menshairstyletrends.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/ Green-Beard-Alexander-Pohnert-Armin-Morbach.jpg>. 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from: <http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/model-walks-the-runway-at-the-rick-owens-autumnwinter-2015-news-photo/461953092?language=es>. Runway – Gucci Fall 2015, n.d. photograph, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <https://georgionewyork.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/img_4845.jpg>. Runway – Gucci Fall 2015, n.d. photograph, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <https://georgionewyork.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/img_4853.jpg>. Saint Laurent Autumn Winter 2015, n.d. photograph, viewed April 28, 2015, Available at: <http://www.wgsn.com/blogs/ wp-content/uploads/vol10/2015/01/DailyChronicles_SaintLaurant.jpg>. Sneaker sighting Kanye West, n.d. photograph, viewed April 26, 2015, Available from: <http://sneakertalk.com/2014/07/29/sneaker-sighting-kanye-west-flaunts-theadidas-pure-boost-and-stan-smiths-in-gq/>. Thom Browne FW13, SoTo Berlin, viewed 29, 2015, Available from: <http:// www.sotostore.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/soto-like-tb-fw13-1.jpg>. A FEW WAYS TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE [88] Images: 9 Ways to Fold a Pocket Square, Real Men Real Style, viewed February 2, 2015, Available from: <https://blueberryblackout.files.wordpress. com/2015/01/150a2cc8d63bdbdbee542ed23b02a217.jpg>. SIGMUND FREUD [90] Text: Aneta Lalova. Image: Sigmund Freud 1921, von Max Halberstradt, viewed March 4, 2015, Available from: <http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/Sigmund_Freud_1926.jpg>. TEXAS HOLD’EM POKER [92] Text: Fullfilt 2015, Texas Holdem. Available from: <http://www.fulltilt.com/poker/ games/texas-holdem>. [Accessed: February 21, 2015]. Images: Victoria Yaprakova. COUNTLESS MANLY TOYS [96] Images: Anglure Combo 28’’, n.d. photograph, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://www.reedssports.com/prodimages/193842-DEFAULT-l.jpg>. Bosch 18V Li-Ion Compact, PicClick ProductMatch, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://thumbs4.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/350703926671_/ Bosch-GSB-36-V-LICP-36v-Combi-Drill-2.jpg>. 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Hennessy XO Cognac, n.d. photograph, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://i30.twenga.com/food-and-drink/cognac-xo/ hennessy-xo-cognac-70cl-tp_4002749468184263541f.jpg>. Imperial Princess, n.d. photograph, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://www.charterworld.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/The-40m-luxury-motoryacht-Imperial-Princess.png>. Jacksonville Baby, David Walters, viewed April 13, 2015, Available from: <http://www. davidwaltersphotography.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Jacksonville-Baby-Photographer(pp_w606_h404).jpg>. Macbook Air, Hugh Threlfall/Alamy, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/ Pix/pictures/2014/1/24/1390579173532/a52a44b2-7a7d-44ca-804f-f3648f3bd595-620x461.jpeg>. Monster Truck, n.d. photograph, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://www.wallpaperup.com/95795/monster-truck_monster_ truck_trucks_4x4_wheel_wheels_e.html>. Omega Seamaster, Omega, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http:// www.omegawatches.com/fileadmin/templates/pp/aqua-terra-150m_assets/img/soldiers/23110432203002_1. png>. Porsche Cayman GT, n.d. photograph, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://wallpapers55.com/wp-content/ uploads/2013/09/Porsche-Cayman-Techart-cars-wallpaper-hd.jpg>. S&W 500 Magnum, n.d. photograph, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://www.hawaiigunclub.com/images/firearms/s-w-500-magnum.jpg>. Scales of Justice, n.d. photographer, viewed April 13, 2015, Available from: <http://images.clipartpanda.com/justice-clipartscales_of_justice_black_white_line_art_coloring_book_colouring-3333px.png>. Shwood Titanium Acetate Wood Sunglasses, n.d. photograph, viewed April 11, 2015, Available from: <http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0379/7537/ products/2_Shwood_Wood_Sunglasses_Prescott_Antique_Bronze.jpg?v=1427582362>. Sinuous Guitars Santos, n.d. photograph, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://www.brennanletkeman.com/blog/wp-content/ uploads/2012/03/sinuous-guitars-santos-1.jpg>. Sony PlayStation 4 Jet Black, n.d. photograph, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://www.gamexchange.co.uk/images/pictures/products/ps4/ps4-accessories/sony-playstation-4jet-black-01-(page-picture-large).jpg>. Swiss Army Knife, Victorinox, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://www. traveluniverse.com.au/resize/Shared/Images/Product/Swiss-Champ-Swiss-Army-Knife-Red-Victorinox/35763-2. jpg?lr=t&bw=1000&bh=1200>. Thonet Bicycle, Obanga, viewed April 12, 2015, Available from: <http://somethingbanging. com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/101012-news-70000-bike-2-crop-662w-at-1x.jpg>. CIGAR COMPENDIUM [98] Text: Bobalu, 2014, Cigar Sizes, Available from: <http://www.bobalu.com/ cigar-size-chart>. [Accessed: March 6, 2015]; KAQUIRI, E. (2014), Top 10 Most Cigars in the World. The Richest. [Online] 14.07.2014. Available from: <http://www.therichest.com/luxury/most-expensive/top-10-most-expensive-cigars-inthe- world/?view=all> [Accessed: March 19, 2015]; NORMAND, L. (2013), A Gentleman’s Guide to Cigar Etiquette. stogiefresh. [Online] 23.05.2013. Available from: <http://www.stogiefresh.info/edu-cigars/articles/gentlemans-guide-etiquette. html>. [Accessed: March 29, 2015]; SHAPIRA, J. A. (2014), The Cigar Guide I – History, Making & Humidors. Gentleman’s Gazette. [Online] March 20, 2014. Available from: <http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/cigar-guide-history-makingof-humidor/>. [Accessed: March 17, 2015]. Images: Arturo Fuente Opus X Perfecxion No. 2, n.d. photograph, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://www.cigarcabana.com/image-files/arturo-fuente-opus-x-perfecxion-no-2.png>. Cigar Size Chart, Bobalu, viewed April 4, 2015, Available from: <http://www.bobalu.com/media/wysiwyg/cigar_sizes_1_white_ real_size_2012.jpg>. Cohiba Behike 52, n.d. photograph, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://www.cigars.com.au/ Products/CigarCollection/Cohiba-Behike-52.aspx>. Don Arturo Gran AniverXario, Gartrader, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://gartrader.com/uploads/gallery/album_7/gallery_10_7_14726.jpg>. Gurkha Black Dragon, Cigar Obsession, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OmWVs6WN4Sg/maxresdefault.jpg>. Jack Nicholson, Carlos Serao, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://archivio.grazia.it/people/hollywood/jack-nicholson-vecchi-saretevoi#>. King of Denmark, n.d. photograph, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://www.danishcigars.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/10/RDC-0007.jpg>. Loiuxs, Bob Hritsko, viewed April 3, 2015, Available from: <http://www.bullz-eye. com/cigars/reviews/2009/louixs.htm>. THE LOST CRAFT OF POCKET WATCHES [108] Original photo shoot for Seven. Team: Dima Markova and Kris Vartanyan (photography). Watches provided by topc2009 <http://www.ebay.com/usr/topc2009>.

In memory of Mwape.

Sorry, darling. I know I could have done better...