The Dictionary of 124

his is a book about those things intriguing but forgotten. Those places that fill with emotion, but are never returned to. Those products inspiring, but unreachable. The memories that live only in your heart, and not remembered by the mind. Sophistication guided by beauty and inspiration born by life. The Dictionary of 124 is a catalogue of lessons to pass onto the next generation; a dictionary of relics from yours. We give ideas for those moments when you want to do something good for yourself. Not just about the tag, it’s a collection of friendly recommendations. There are 124 sparks of inspiration from one product, from one city. The Dictionary doesn’t praise anything, it merely guides towards love of beauty, inspiration and life. We have an obvious obsession with dictionaries, and this issue celebrates 124 years since the first publication of The Oxford English Dictionary in 1888.

You don’t have to like everything in this list, but simply consider it...

The Designer

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udibet, marc

Marc Audibet is a fashion designer, industrial creator and innovator. In the fashion world, he is celebrated for his research into stretch, believing that fashion is a matter of anatomy and that innovation starts with the fabrics.

Marc Audibet’s designs were all about stretch – no hooks, no zippers or buttons, Audibet created seamless, asymmetrical garments that cling to the body, and follow the lines of the model’s figure. Born in 1955, in 1972 he went on to gain his experience as a designer while working as an assistant to Emanuel Ungaro, and then as a designer for Pierre Balmain, Nino Cerruti and Madame Gres. In 1977 Audibet is appointed head designer at the house of Christian Aujard, and remained there until 1981; then he moved onto designing for Basile

and Laure Biagiotti, until 1984.

In the same year Marc Audibet and Azzedine Alaia worked with Du Pont on a very successful project, mixing Lycra with other fabrics such as satin and silk.

Together they launched single and two-way stretch fabrics made from DuPont’s Lycra – which today is considered as the most important development in fashion in the 80’s. Throughout the 90’s Audibet embodied the architect of Prada’s growth and designs 9 collections for the fashion house.

He then became head designer for Salvatore Ferragamo, but left after only 4 seasons, feeling that they were not supportive of his creative efforts. Marc Audibet has been designing for Vionnet after the successful relaunch of the Parisian fashion house in 2007.

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THE

“I have yet to meet a man as fond of high moral conduct as he is of outward appearances.”

The Thought

Confucius

The Thought

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The Aroma

Fragrance plays a very important role in our lives, both consciously and subconsciously. It is able to create or influence an atmosphere and it can affect our moods and our impressions.

Born from a deep understanding, LINARI have made it their mission to combine high quality room fragrances with timeless modern designs.

LINARI, synonymous with all that is pure and elegant, have created the perfect symbiosis between fragrance and design.

Purchase here:

The record players are returning.

Wipe the dust form the vinyl record, place the needle at the edge, and watch your favourite song turn on its axis. Sexy, black, smooth... we are in need of that ritual. The warm analog sound is nothing like the crystal clear tones of the CDs. The vinyl brings meaningfulness back to music, and makes some of us dedicated collectioners. Bruce Sringsteen, Elvis Costello and Bjork chose the vinyl for their latest albums. Maybe it’s time to consider purchasing a last generation record player?

The Thought

all art.

B

The Designer

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alenciaga, cristobal

He claims that ‘no woman can make herself chic if she is not chic herself!’ Shape and simplicity are what made Balenciaga one of the most significant couturiers in the history of fashion. The genius lay in the cut. A few of Balenciaga’s fashion innovations include the sack dress, the balloon dress, the kimono-sleeve coat, and the collar cut to elongate the neck.

His instinct for the sculptural and a perfect, geometrically tailored design was embraced by his favourite fabric: the silk gazar, a sort of diaphanous but stiff material that supported the couturier’s novelty in garment shaping. He infused the rigid fabrics with intricate embroidery and bold forms.

‘Balenciaga abides by the law that elimination is the secret of chic’

– told Harper’s Bazaar in the late 30’s; Carmel Snow, the editor of the magazine at the time, was one of Balenciaga’s first devotees.

The designer’s story started in San Sebastian, Spain when he opened in his first boutique in 1918. Two more stores later (Barcelona and Madrid), Cristobal Balenciaga had quickly climbed the ladder of fashion and dressed the Spanish royal family and aristocracy until the uncertainty and disorderliness of the Spanish Civil War forced him to relocate.

Paris, the fashion capital of the world, was exactly where Balenciaga belonged. The year 1937 welcomed the opening of his couture house on Avenue George V, there to this day. The designs in his first Paris runway show were heavily influenced by

Balenciaga’s Spanish severity; the tradition of the Spanish renaissance of Velasquez and Goya. As a designer, Balenciaga innovated unimagined until then pattern cuts for garments.

During WWII, he was noted for his coat cut in a single piece with the sleeves (square coat).

Unfortunately, his life journeyed through rows with other designers, and dissatisfaction of the fashion industry as a whole. Maybe he was overlooked and did not receive the deserved gratitude and respect. Or maybe his pride surpassed him. Nevertheless, in 1968, Balenciaga bowed out with the words, ‘it’s a dog’s life’; but he will forever remain a legend of the fashion world.

l

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-6A Bakery

The Place

Magnolia Bakery If you’re ever in New York, you have to visit one of the Magnolia bakeries. It’s open until midnight, and the cupcakes are irresistable. Magnolia Bakery opened in the summer of 1996 on a quiet corner in the heart of New York City’s Greenwich Village. It was envisioned as a cosy, oldfashioned shop where people could come for coffee and something sweet. With its vintage American desserts and decor, customers often remark that walking into the bakery is like taking a step back in time. In 2007, the original owner decided to pass her oven mitts to a new family she felt would maintain the integrity of what had become an iconic brand. And so, Steve Abrams, a veteran NYC restaurateur and consultant along with his wife and daughter, took over the Bakery. Since then they have slowly and thoughtfully expanded from one shop to eight.

-7ThE BaG YSL

The Product

Refined, spacious and luxe, the coveted ‘Cabas Chyc’ tote is quintessential Yves Saint Laurent. For this latest version, the label marries off-white leather and red woven linen to create a bag that defines Riviera chic. Put a stylish jetsetting spin on your resort-ready look and carry this standout piece with a striped dress.

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the bathtub

The Product

BathStore There is something slightly indulgent but thoroughly deserved about sinking into a roll top bath and letting your cares dissolve with the bubbles. Their roll tops are made from acrylic sheets sandwiched with a thick stone resin filling, making them reassuringly solid but surprisingly lightweight. This also gives them excellent thermal properties, keeping your water warmer for longer and the surface warm to the touch.

9

Beingtherichestmaninthecemetery doesn’t matter to me. Going to bed at night saying we’ve done something wonderful, that’s what matters to me.

The Thought

Steve Jobs

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THE BICYCLE Cigno la Bicicletta

Cigno la Bicicletta Gold Woman is the bicycle that we want to get on, even if just to see our reflection in the shop windows.

With its beautiful design strongly reflecting the fifties, the bicycle has a hand-made leather seat, aluminium accessories, and the handlebars crafted from cow skin.

The company features models of their classical collection, an array of products for men and women.

11

Kamby stand on the top of the Swiss biscuits ladder, and that probably makes them the best biscuits in the world. The Florentina is a range by Kambly: delicate and crisp biscuit speciality, with caramelised sliced almonds and dipped in finest Swiss milk chocolate. Let your taste buds judge...

The Product

Kambly

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The Thought

Last year, Gucci and Riva (in collaboration with Officina Italiana Design) created someting fascinating, that we feel must be mentioned again.

Proud to unveil the exclusive made to order “Aquariva by Gucci”, a model customized by Gucci Creative Director Frida Giannini.

This initiative has been one of the activities marking Gucci’s 90th anniversary year in 2011. This unique collaboration between two of Italy’s most renowned design houses celebrates the era of La Dolce Vita, when a joie de vivre, glamour and elegance defined an attitude and a lifestyle. In their respective sectors, Gucci and Riva have similar stories, each with a tradition of excellence in design and craftsmanship that has led to international notoriety.

This moisturising body milk offers a very fluid and silky texture, that is lighter than a body cream. Absorbs into the skin rapidly and imparts the exquisite Mûre et Musc perfume, leaving the skin smooth, supple, moisturised and invigorated. The delicate and non-greasy texture of the body milk is a result of the “nano dispersion” technology.

The nano dispersion also protects the oils in the formula against the risks of oxidation.

The Product

Mure et Musc Body Milk

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-14-

The Thought

The Book A Tale of Two Cities by Charles Dickens is the most sold book in the world.

“

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,

it was the age of wisdom,it was the age of foolishness,

belief, incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the epoch of it was the epoch of

it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair,

everything before us, nothing before us,

we had we had

we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way

- in short, the period was so far like the present period, that some of its noisiest authorities insisted on its being received, for good or for evil, in the superlative degree of comparison only.

“

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The Place

-15The South Bank Book Market

Under Waterloo Bridge.

Open 7am every day.

16

The Product

The Boots

The History of a Place

MINSKY’S BURLESQUE: Minsky’s Burlesque was presented by four brothers: Abe Minsky, Billy Minsky, Herbert Minsky and Morton Minsky.

The doors of their club opened in New York in 1912 and lasted as the most popular burlesque show until 1937. Their father bought the National Winter Garden on Houston Street, and gave the theatre, located on the sixth floor, to his sons. They started off by showing films but could not compete with the larger theatre chains. Not long after, they decided to put on shows with various performers, but could not afford all the good acts. Struggling to make money, the brothers considered burlesque; the acts were low-priced, and promoters (called wheels) provided a new show every week. There were a number of popular wheels, and after a brief consideration of which one to reveal, the Minskys realised that staging their own performances make their club most unique and profitable.

Of all the brothers, Bill was the main instigator of new ideas and pushed for something different. The theatre underwent a transformation, and the new stage included a runway – the first one ever featured in the United States. After all, the audience had to be lured into trekking up to the sixth floor theatre, and the Minskys knew that would be hard if they put on shows with clean burlesque. A new sign hung at the entrance with Burlesque As You Like It – Not a Family Show written in bold letters.

The first raid was in 1917, when Mae Dix a popular dancer of the Minsky theatre, started taking off her clothes before she reached the stage curtain.

The crowd broke into an uncontrollable cheer and Dix reappeared on stage, continuing her undressing routine. Bill vouched to the police that the accident happens almost every night, but unfortunately raids started becoming an expected occurrence.

Although their shows were declared as extremely obscene and grotesque, they were much tamer by modern standards.

Even if less active, the coquettes on stage compensated with their extravagant and elaborate costumes. Flirtatious corsets and stockings accentuated the feminine charm, making women more captivating and desirable.

The Minsky brothers took the striptease out of the back rooms and placed it centre stage. The new age striptease girls made use of that by converting the act into an elite show with up to six strippers supported by one or two comics and a master of ceremony.

While stripping invited crowds of rowdy men, it also provided for burlesque’s shady reputation.

By the mid-twenties burlesque performers were allowed to appear fully topless, as long as they didn’t move (that rule translated into the London burlesque as well). Women in shows staged by George White, Earl Carroll and Ziegfeld were

THE DICTIONARY OF 124

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considered particularly filthy comics. John Dos Passos, Condé Nast, and Robert Benchley were regular patrons of the club, and piled a chunky tab behind the bar on a weekly basis. Strippers always walked a fine line between titillation and propriety, because overdoing their duties could convict them of corrupting public morals, and land them in jail. The most memorable raid was in 1925, when police entered the Minsky Burlesque theatre and not only stopped the show, but stamped their authoritarian power with physical abuse. Records of the newspapers on the next day state published headlines like FortyEight People Injured by Police in Minsky Club Raid. That night inspired the book and film The Night They Raided Minsky’s.

In the beginning of the 1930s Bill Minsky was ready for another significant change in his tactics to remain the most successful Burlesque club manager. He suggested bringing the Minsky brand to Broadway. Performers like Sally Rand and Gypsy Rose Lee gave stripping an artistic twist and had already climbed up to a generally respected stardom.

So why not make their Burlesque show a first class performance played next to world famous musicals and plays? The brothers staged their first show in the newly leased Republic Theatre on Broadway and 42nd Street in New York, on February 12, 1931. The Republic remained Minsky’s flagship theatre, and soon established itself as the capital of burlesque in the United States. (The theatre still remains under the different name of New Victory, which today fatefully dedicates its work to children’s entertainment).

The great Depression of 1929 spilled its influence onto the thirties, marking it the best era for burlesque shows, especially Minsky’s. People could not afford expensive Broadway shows, but the Minsky brothers offered a cheaper and more entertaining performance down the block. Minsky’s featured comics Rags Ragland, Jimmy Savo, Red Buttons, Phil Silvers – as well as the headlining stripper Gypsy Rose Lee, who earned up to $2,000 a week. There seemed to be a limitless number of women who were happy to be employed, considering the steady work offered by Burlesque clubs.

Burlesque thrived in New York with 14 clubs open during the mid-30s and Minskys were at the forefront of their rivals. By the time Minskys stopped expanding, the various brothers ran over a dozen theatres, six in New York, as well as Philadelphia, Albany, Baltimore and Pittsburgh. They also had their own wheel.

Unfortunately, Burlesque’s popularity was met by the numerous licence commissioners who issues restrictions to keep the entertainment shows from pushing the limits of moral influence. When the legal crackdowns begun in the mid1920, and Burlesque managers had were relying on their lawyers to come up with legal loopholes for more than a decade. But in the mid-30s, the reform-minded New York Mayor, Fiorello LaGuardia wanted to effectively close down all burlesque houses, rejecting them as sources of ‘filth’; and he had Minsky’s Theatre as a first stop. Paul Moss, New York’s city license commissioner at the time tried to invalidate Minsky’s license but the State Court of

Appeals ruled that there were no grounds for that in the absence of a criminal conviction.

Until finally someone slipped in April 1937; a stripper at the New Gotham Theatre in Harlem, ran

by Abe Minsky, was spotted on stage without wearing a G-string.

The raid that night was a bloodshed of everything Burlesque.

Moss convicted Abe’s license, leading to the denial by the court to renew all of the other burlesque licenses in New York.

Several appeals later, Minskys and their competitors were allowed to open their doors once again, but under new rules that forbade strippers. That same November was to hold the new mayor elections, and burlesque theatre owners were hoping for Fiorello La Guardia to be replaced by someone with more liberal views on entertainment.

The uninhibited atmosphere of burlesque establishments symbolised the failure of the Prohibition of alcohol; a lot of clubs had closed their doors long before November came, because the slipper-less shows were not profitable to sustain the running of a theatre. Luck didn’t strike for the other theatres either; by the time La Guardia was re-elected, the world burlesque was banned, and soon after the Minsky name became its synonym (also banned).

With that final blow, Minskys Theatre died, leaving trails of legendary performers, customers, comedians, business innovations and a general admiration for burlesque history. The decline of the Minsky brothers’ clubs marked the end of all burlesque in New York, and the world.

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The Designer

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coco This photograph is famous, because it expresses who Chanel was in her entirety. She is hastily walking through the Tuileries in Paris facing Alexander Liberman with a stern expression, as if telling off a boy. It her own way, Coco Chanel always fought for the well-being and freedom of women, and her style was based on a masculine model of power.

As a seamstress, Chanel used to work for the Duke of Westminster, and her job included working on the yacht, where she was responsible for the crew’s uniforms. Her roots as a designer were officially planted; what followed was her signature style, which included a blouse, a suit (with sleeves that provided room for comfort), a scarf, a

hat, gloves, pearls and a bag (iconic purse with gilt chains).

Coco Chanel wasn’t simply a new designer. She realised that what women want is a perfect mixture of elegance and comfort.

By using jersey as the base of her creations, Chanel invented an entirely new concept, which was not known until then, and still dominates today. She will forever remain one of the most influential figures in the history of fashion. Chanel went on to open a successful couture de maison in Paris, which closed in 1939 and re-opened again in 1954. The maison is still open under the artistic leadership of Carl Lagerfeld, the established creative director of the company.

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1

THE

The Thought

It was parked right in the window of the showroom, a wedge-shaped sports car that, even with its top off, looked as sleek and compact as a muscle.

7

CAR Naturally it was red—a corny, testosteronestuffed red. When I was a little bit younger, such blatant macho corn would have made me sneer, or snigger, or puke, or all of the above.

MAN AND BOY

By Tony Parsons

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JUSTE UN CLOU RING

The Product

An iconic piece of jewelry created in the 1970s, it expresses a rebellious nature and reflects self-confidence.

The Product

We protect ourselves from being seduced by letting it overtake us.

There is nothing that can stand in the way between us and our desire for this dark chocolate. And the sublime orange bits inside make our perversity even more stylish.

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WARNING

The Thought

Smoking has been linked to some of the most powerful images of the Twentieth Century 2 0. T h e C i g a re t te

The Place

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New Linden Hotel

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Apple Martini

The Thought

One shot vodka, one shot apple liquor, one shot dry vermouth. Mix in a shaker filled with ice. Served in a martini glass, with a piece of apple.

Illy

The Thought

When it comes to coffee, we know there are many brands from various continents. Soft coffee, smooth taste.

But we like the harshness of Illy...

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KRUPS

Nespresso Pixie Titanium We have nothing bad to say about the Krups Nespresso Pixie Titanium coffee machine. So here is a list of all the good things.

It’s compact and intuitive design – low water level detection with interactive lights. Faster to cup – ready in 25 seconds thanks to new thermoblock technology. Energy Saving – auto shut-off after just 9 minutes reducing carbon footprint by 30%.

Available in 3 vibrant colours: Electric Red, Electric Titanium and Electric Indigo.

The Product

The Coffee Machine

The Cognac

In 1865, Maurice Hennessy, the great grandson of the Founder, Richard Hennessy, was the first to systematically classify cognacs. Inspired by a decorative star symbol on his office window, he awarded a varying number of stars to designate the different quality levels. Thus was born the House of Hennessy’s first Three Star Cognac, better known today as V.S (Very Special). This grading system was soon adopted by the rest of the trade. The Hennessy Paradis Extra is one of the best Hennessy cognacs - and that means everything.

The Product

Hennessy Paradis Extra

-26The Computer

Times have changed and there’s no need for your portable computer to be the lightest, the smallest or the pinkest. The important thing is that it sits somewhere comfortably at home, available for the whole family to use.

But still - you should always have the best...

“It’s very easy to be different, but very difficult to be better.”

Jonathan Ive

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Mono-E

The Product

he cutler t y

The Photographer

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ay, corinne Kate Moss owes her career to Day. This picture, from the series by Corinne Day that established Moss as a model, was shot for the cover of The Face, when Moss was 15. As the most popular of grunge photographers, Day always worked hard in order to capture the ‘teenage sexuality which I love. I want to make my images as documentary as possible, an image of life that is real.’ She discovers her subjects on the streets of London, and as a model herself, she knew what she didn’t want to photograph: glamour, sex appeal and trend.

Corinne Day revolutionised fashion photography and her work epitomised the antiglamour attitude during the 90’s. She was against the glitzy, sexy and sophisticated look that traditional fashion portrayed at the end of the last century. In a rebellious tone, Day started shooting skinny girls wearing their nylon knickers, at a setting that resembled everything not splendid and beautiful. By doing so, Corinne Day became one of the most noted photographers of the 20th century.

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the definition

The Thought

Titled: (Art as Idea as Idea) The Word “Definition” Joseph Kosuth Museum of Modern Art, New York

“CHANGE IS NOT A DESTINATION, JUST AS HOPE IS NOT A STRATEGY.” The Thought

Rudy Giuliani

The Product

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Organic Spirulina is a blue green algae and one of nature’s most complete super foods. In fact it was the major protein source for ancient Aztec cities where it was often blended with Cacao and treated as food fit for the gods! Their Spirulina powder comes supplied in a resealable foil pouch for lasting freshness. It’s great blended into smoothies; a heaped teaspoon is plenty. It also has a special relationship with cacao and can be blended with it to make all kinds of chocolate treats.

Not only did the Aztecs enjoy it this way, in Chinese Meadicine cacao is considered a heating food whilst Spirulina is cooling, making for a fuller, more balanced flavour.

-Anonymous Catalogue of the 1925 Paris Exhibition.

Quoted in Colin McDowell McDowell’s Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion (1984), ch.1.

The Thought

There is no woman who does not dream of being dressed in Paris.

The Illustrator

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uta, joe We are constantly surrounded by fashion imaging, from the spread in a magazine, to the side of a bus stop, to the massive billboard hanging by the highway. We won’t get far without seeing Kate Moss’ face or a little girl climbing up a mountain of apples to pick a perfume bottle from a tree.

Less than 50 years ago however, when the fashion industry wasn’t digitalised, there used to be a profession known as a fashion illustrator. Joe Eula was one of the best, even when photography

dominated. He was the guardian of old tradition that will never be in use again; Eula’s style was the impressionistic watercolours.

His career started in the 1950’s when he worked on the fashion and social pages of the Herald Tribune, and later – in the Sunday Times in London. His fashion watercolour illustrations covered the pages of Italian and French Harper’s Bazaar, and continued to represent the best of fashion illustration in Vogue until the late 70’s.

The History of a Product

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THE CLIP-ON EARRINGS IN TIME:

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People have been decorating their bodies with jewels throughout the centuries across all cultures. Earrings, among all the rest of the adornments, became a symbol for individuality, beliefs or traditions. Although one can trace back thousands of years and find proof that people wore earrings for pierced ears, clip-on earrings are a relatively new occurrence. Whether because of curiosity, admiration, or pure geekiness, The Dictionary of 124 decided to follow the journey of the clip-ons through history.

There is no argument that clipon earrings evolved from the earrings for pierced ears, rather than the other way around.

Anthropologists believe that in ancient cultures earrings were used as costume jewellery that represented a status. Generally, having pierced ears was a sort of divine feature, a luxury for the gods and goddesses, kings and queens. The rest of the people would not allow themselves to have pierced ears, and clip-on earrings were still inexistent.

Earrings appeared in Europe in the 16th century but did not gain popularity during the elaborate fashion of the Renaissance era. The large wigs and high collared shirts hid their ears, and ornamenting them would be a nuisance if anything.

Time passed, fashions changed quickly, and by the mid-17th century, women rejected the fake hair and started wearing their hair tightly pulled back.

The collars relaxed as well, and it was the faces’ turn to be on show. But time moved on, (as this is a historical overview, that will be mentioned repeatedly), and fashion didn’t wait. The come-back of the earrings hastily dissolved in the space of few decades. Even though the

strapless gowns, low necklines, and voluptuous cleavages resemble the 18th century, it also gave us the bonnets and large ribbons; the ears were covered again. It wasn’t until the 19th century that a true turning point for earrings occurred, and women finally abandoned the bonnets and begun focusing on intricate hairdos of various styles.

Unfortunately, during the time pierced ears were still considered vulgar because of the infectious and dirty ear holes they imposed.

Due to this catch-22 situation, all of the higher class that possessed the priceless jewellery couldn’t wear it, because they would be thought of as filthy.

With time and through necessity, mankind always materialises something ingenious. In this case, the 20th century arrived and brought with it the invention of the clip-on earrings. The mechanism was composed of two distinct pieces: the clasp, attached to the back of the earlobe, and a front part holding the ornament. Softly pressured together (with a screw-like device), the two pieces keep the earring from sliding off the earlobe, enabling everyone at the time to wear the jewels without the humiliation of having holes in their ears. People of higher social ranks would parade their crystal chandelier clip-on earrings without fear of an indignity. The clip-ons had officially begun their journey through time…

As the newly-invented accessories became more popular, so did their production and essentially – their quality and price. The passing of time coincided with the parallel receding length of women’s hairstyles. The focus was back on the face once again

and it was the perfect time for glamour and overstatement. The 1920s was the era of the flapper girls, who were famous for overdecorating themselves. They epitomised the most sparkly and shiny occurrence in the 20th century, and expectedly earrings took centre stage. The flappers favoured the extravagant drop clip-on earrings; a cheaper, diamante version of the crystal chandeliers, but with an even more shimmering effect.

Time (yes, again) rolled over into the 1930’s; a decade which started with a Depression caused by the Wall Street Crash of 1929. The dramatic and reckless spending of the past was quickly forgotten.

Women began sewing more, leading to the return of the more feminine fashion. The ladylike style replaced the manly shapes of the flapper look from the previous decade. Hemlines dropped to the ankle, soft gathers replaced darts, and hips diminished by full skirts misleading into a small waist. Budding rounded busts and waistline curves complemented the prettier perms. Foreheads were revealed from underneath the cloche hats and celebrated with small berets, brimmed hats, and the turbans that appeared at the end of the thirties.

Suddenly the new trend emerged, and it motivated a healthy life style, making sportswear a very significant influence of fashion design. Clip-on earrings were widely welcomed, spurring memories from the past, when holes were considered unhygienic.

The safe earrings reduced the risk of minor infection, contact reactions to nickel and the tearing of the earlobe hole found in some cases of pierced ears.

Ladies wore one thing in the

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day, but as soon as night fell – the dazzling eveningwear emerged.

The entertainment industry had the strongest effect over fashion during the thirties. Movies symbolised one of the few escapes of the reality that the Depression left. The glitziness of Hollywood hypnotised people into believing in wealth and glamour, while living a life of impoverishments and breadlines. Every single thing that exemplified a celebrity was cherished, mass-produced, and consumed; from the dresses, to the handbags and clip-on earrings.

Actresses in films would always wear clip-on earrings that were then copied and sold for cheaper.

The thirties are without a doubt the strongest decade for the clip earrings. The designs developed into intricate forms, materials and sizes. Simple geometric shapes and colours emerged, and the diamante style has never really lost its appeal since then. On one hand there were the miniature button style pieces made from gemstones or crystals. The more expensive button clip-on earrings were made from real pearls and diamonds. On the other hand, there were the extremely oversized drop clip-on earrings and chandeliers, which acted as the statement piece, rather than an added detail.

Time got bored of the thirties and somehow the clip-ons reflected that. Instead of the lavish styles, they focused on quality and perfection. Most girls owned pearl clip-on earrings during the 1950s. Fake jewellery merchandise was born, and jewellers obtained a large knowledge and experience in recognising real pearls and diamonds from fabricated ones.

Various textures created by melting gold emerged, and during the sixties, earrings were worn for fun, as a sign of freedom. There

were light clip-on earrings worn exclusively during the day, and heavier, more elegant ones for evening time. The seventies were all about the extremity in selfexpression and the secure safety of the clip-on earrings did not resemble the dedication to the art of wearing earrings. The ears were too typical of a spot, and the beauty of the piercing found its way to stardom on all sorts of other body parts. Holes became popular during the decade, symbolising an entire movement of punks who hardly had any free skin left to pierce.

And then time gradually decided to perceive these punks as social left-outs. The earrings scene fazed away, and established companies, such as Tiffany’s and Cartier, mainly highlighted jewellery during the rest of the century. Relatively far into the 21st century, more than forty years after the insurgence of the pierced ear, is there any recognition of the clip-on earring?

They are surely not in great demand, but there are reasons why clip-ons continue to linger a presence. Misae Richwoods, director of Make Me Beautiful online store specialising in clip-on earrings, speaks about the customers as “all kinds of people. It could be the teenager whose parents don’t allow her to pierce her ears, to the old lady who never considered it in first place”! As specialists in the retail of clip-on earrings, it is crucial that Make Me Beautiful provides for a range of ages and genders. The store can be visited by the occasional military girl who is forbidden from piercing her ears, as well as Ben who likes to be called Monique during the weekend. Make Me Beautiful offers a variety of styles of clip-

on earrings, including hoops, buttons, chandeliers – in metals like 925 silver, gold and rhodium plated, as well as real pearls.

“Earrings make a great statement about a woman’s femininity but a torn ear lobe makes you look more like a cage fighter than a princess. Customers tell me it’s unsightly and embarrassing for them as well as uncomfortable for others to see,” explains Misae Richwoods. “Plastic surgery to correct a torn earlobe is expensive and doesn’t always work. Often times women who’ve suffered it will come to us and request button clip-on earrings as these can be worn over the split lobe so that it is no longer visible.” One would be surprised how many of the current celebrities are supporters of the safer option.

Oprah wore only clip-on earrings before she had her ears pierced in 2005, while Blake Lively starring in the Gossip Girl series, parades a ray of clip-ons.

Time has reached the now, and clip-on earrings are at the start of yet another revival. History shows it has happened before, and it will happen again. Clip-on earrings are the preferred choice for jewellers such as De Beers, who use earlobe clasps for their most intricate one-off designs.

There is a somewhat mystical and sensual feeling about clip-on earrings; like little gems placed delicately on the earlobe, they represent the more gentle and natural of the two. Only time will show how long this return of the clip-on earrings will last.

We here at The Dictionary of 124 foolishly hope they stay for good…

Photo shoot: Behind the Scenes Video

66. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

The Thought

32 The Ecstasy

Franz Kafka

33 The Escape

William S. Burroughs

The Thought

Desperation is the raw material of drastic change. Only those, who can leave behind everything they have ever believed in, can hope to escape.

DF

The Designer

68. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

It was ‘simple one-step dressing.

Chic, comfortable and sexy.’

This is Diane von Furstenberg modelling her own iconic wrap dress. After successfully becoming filthy rich after a divorce settlement with Fiat heir Prince Egon von Furstenberg, she was more of a socialite than a designer. As an ex-model, she partied in Studio 54, and had popular affairs with predominant people. She got around… Diane Von Furstenberg deserves to be recognised, because even though

she was a social star, she had a strong business mind and money driven existence, less of a fashion designer, more of an entrepreneur.

Von Furstenberg was an incredible businesswoman, an ingenious product designer, and we bow to her invention. ‘The wrap dress won’t become dated after one season. It works around the clock, travels across the world, and fits all women’s priorities.’ Did she just describe the perfect product?

70. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

-34-

The Thought

My friend Mwape’s Flip Flips poster.For a second, did you think that we’d try to sell you flip flops?

Never.

-35The Family Fight

Family quarrels are bitter things. They don’t go according to any rules. They’re not like aches or wounds, they’re more like splits in the skin that won’t heal because there’s not enough material.

F. Scott Fitzgerald

72. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

The Thought

-36The Flower

The Fresh Air

Approximately 80% of our air pollution stems from hydrocarbons released by vegetation, so let’s not go overboard in setting and enforcing tough emission standards from man-made sources.

What a fool...

The Thought

Ronald Reagan, 1987

74. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

-38-

The Place

We love the experience of going to the market and picking some fruit and veg for home. But oh, do we love it even more, when the best selection of organic fruits and vegetables from local farms are delivered straight to our door...

-39FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK

(FUCK) (FEMINISM) (FUTURE)

The Icon

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arbot, greta Called ‘the greatest star of all’, Greta Garbo wears a masculine jacket, cut with sexual ambiguity, in a portrait

by Cecil Beaton. Beaton wrote of his subject, ‘Perhaps no other person has had such an influence on the appearance of an entire generation…the secret of her appeal seems to lie in an elusive and haunting sensitivity…Garbo has created a style in fashion which is concerned with her individual self.’ Garbot arrived in Hollywood aged nineteen in the entourage of Mauritz Stilla from Sweden. Signed up by MetroGoldwyn-Mayer, she went on to star in Queen Christina, Camille, and Anna Karenina, dressed

in Adrian. Famed as a recluse, she said in 1932, ‘I am awkward, shy, afraid, nervous, and selfconscious about my English.

That is why I built a wall of repression about myself and lived behind it’. The director George Cukor said that she reserved ‘her real sensuousness for the camera’.

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-40The Gallery

The Place

The National Gallery houses the national collection of Western European painting from the 13th to the 19th centuries. Some of the world’s masterpieces. It is on show 361 days a year, free of charge. So even if you’ve been there ‘when I was a teenager!‘ just go again...

Read about the history of the gallery.

-41Nobody said it has to be big! Having a garden, and being able to grow life is something all of us should hope to do some day. Why not today, why not in a pot?

The Thought

the garden

The Story

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Gatsby’s Kiss ‘His heart beat faster and faster as Daisy’s white face came up to his own. He knew that when he kissed this girl, and forever wed his unutterable visions to her perishable breath, his mind would never romp again like the mind of God. So he waited, listening for a moment longer to the tuning-fork that had been struck upon a star. Then he kissed her. At his lips’ touch she blossomed for him like a flower and the incarnation was complete.’

It was one of those occasions that the word party cannot portray, because its meaning is insufficient in telling the true magic of the night. The atmosphere was frenzied, and still somehow controlled. Everyone felt like they were a loose flock, but caged by the invisible fences surrounding Gatsby’s house. People were ready to live the night as if it were a lifetime long; a life full of everlasting joy that doesn’t really exist.

This story begins in Long Island, New York, at the glamorous entrance of Gatsby’s house.

There was nothing motionless, nothing quiet about the place; it was a mysterious shelter of excitement. The protruding brightness from the tall windows gleamed on the pillars outside, making the mansion look even more majestic on that warm July night. Daisy, the most respected fashion editor of the current time, was there to see someone particular, and she knew that the only way she could find him is by giving herself to the spirit of the house.

She was too careless to notice the butler’s patiently waiting arm by the front door, and he smiled when her Armani white and silver fur coat elegantly slid off her shoulder, engulfed by the white marble floor. Daisy’s eyes slowly followed the curves of the foyer; two grand white marble stairs on both sides lead her gaze to a glass dome ceiling, and then the stars. She had only a second to swallow the splendour of the place before being squeezed into an exaggerated hug by her close friend Jordan.

Daisy was trying to mimic a person who isn’t looking for anyone and is perfectly entertained.

But Jordan noticed her wondering eyes, scanning every face and dress that was present. The quick melody of the jazz reached them, and a popular contralto, a deliberately invited guest, was singing lively. The band was nothing less than an entire pitful of oboes, trombones, saxophones, violas, cornets and piccolos, and various toned drums. Daisy recognised the song.

It was a more spirited version of the one playing at the Etro Spring Summer fashion show she had seen in Milan the previous autumn. She began to hum to the music in a rhythmic whisper, bringing out a meaning in each word that wasn’t there before and won’t be there again. And it wasn’t long before her mysterious mood dissolved within the warm human magic upon the air.

Jordan and Daisy held champagne glasses, which were bigger that finger-bowls, in one hand, and their clutch bags in the other. Expectedly, the bar was fully stocked with gins and liquors, cordials and spirits so long forgotten that the young girls present couldn’t tell one from another. Standing by the banister at the centre of the house terrace overlooking the massive garden, the two of them were quietly smiling, pleasingly leaching off everyone else’s endless vitality. Every couple of minutes Jordan would see someone and toss a brief comment like ‘there is Mrs Murphy of the tobacco plantation Murphies’ or ‘look at what Elaine Chatterby

is wearing! A dress from three seasons ago! You’d think her rich husband would give her some nickels for new clothes! Despicable, really…’ Daisy acted interested and nodded on each occasion. The lights of the party grew brighter as the sun in the horizon slowly disappeared.

Groups of people changed more swiftly, like a school of fish, swelling with new arrivals, and quickly dissolving into other formations.

Cocktails were floating above people’s heads. Laughter became easier minute by minute, the air was full of introductions forgotten on the spot, and enthusiastic meetings between women.

Still on the elevated terrace, Daisy was looking down at the blurry mixture of shades, shapes and textures; French bobs, cloche hats, creams blues greens and yellows, loud beads, quiet feathers and furs, the odd bark from a grey hound, and the rhythm of the heels. A strange memory of the past covered the garden, all the way to somewhere in the distance, far beyond the last illumined string of grass.

The party was in full swing, and there was dancing in the garden now. Young girls were being lead into eternal graceless circles by old men, while sturdy couples held each other snakingly, trendily keeping to the edge of the canvas dance floor. There was also a great number of single girls dancing on their own, and in turns they would glance over at the terrace, trying to gaze, but remain unseen. Daisy knew most of them as her husband Tom’s personal trophies, and the ones that she didn’t recognise were sure to be enlisted for sexual encounters in the near future. The fact that she was there made all of them uncomfortable. She had foreseen this but didn’t care, because tonight she was feeling more chic than anyone else, surpassing the absolute panache fiasco of which she had become a witness of.

Daisy was wearing a Gucci dress; feeling too mature for the lavish gold embellishments and black sequins, this was the only piece she liked from Giannini’s current collection. It was a sassy strapless green dress, with a skirt of black chiffon pleats suspended from a strip of gold around her hips. Not as exquisite or even near as memorable as the rest of the lavish creations that sparked the Gucci catwalk; this dress was somehow the odd one out and Daisy liked that about it. Any ways, she knew that her requisite heels, strong smoky eyes and perfect up do poised the glamour that a simple dress could disregard. The only person she envied a little was Jordan, who was wearing one of Marchesa’s dresses, the gown that Karen Elson wore as she opened their Spring Summer show. It was a stunning gold glittering, beaded fringe sting dress that overwhelmed anybody who was staring in their direction.

A waiter grabbed Daisy’s attention and her arm gently extended towards the tray he was carrying. Meanwhile, her eyes were happy to have stumbled upon an excuse to turn that way, obediently searching for Daisy’s true love, Jay Gatsby. The orchestra had just finished playing Jazz History of the World, and Jordan reappeared from the dance floor. Her dress was enchanting, and with every slight tremor Jordan made, an entire tower of hand-beaded tassels began gathering momentum in a wave-like motion; Daisy didn’t see that dress stand still all night.

Suddenly Jordan gave Daisy a little nudge, her expression both anxious and eager. Daisy’s glare hastily followed Jordan’s subtle finger pointing towards the house entrance. Miss Carey Mulligan had just walked out onto the terrace. The two of them stared with that peculiarly unreal feeling that accompanies the recognition of a movie celebrity. Miss Mulligan was a young actress, quite the star, featuring in a film to be released the coming December, a largely anticipated motion picture directed by Baz Luhrmann; Jordan had mentioned it a while back. It sounded like a complicated love story, and Daisy thought – aren’t they all? Noise became louder and laughter spilled with prodigality, tipping out at every word Miss Mulligan pronounced. All eyes were on her, and Daisy felt free to inspect the crowd, helplessly knowing that the host would be there to greet the newly arrived jewel of the evening.

82. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

Daisy had seen her at the tennis club earlier this month, looking much less glamorous, wearing an orange preppy Sonia Rykiel sporty piece. But tonight, Miss Carey Mulligan looked magnificent; a short bob and clipped fringe, her hair a gamine crop style with an embellished headband, oversized chandelier clip-on earrings, a refined pout, same smoky eyes, and an annoyingly perfect beauty spot. And the dress was the most beautiful thing Daisy had ever seen. ‘Ralph is dressing the whole film crew, you know,’ whispered Jordan in a slightly proud tone, after noticing her friend’s admiring expression. But Daisy had already recognised Lauren’s signature immaculate tailoring, after all – fashion was her life. The glinting silk, floral-patterned column gown swiftly glided through the crowd, people opening a visible path by giving way to each step. The shoes – silver glitter platforms; the purse – a metallic miniature doctor’s bag. Miss Mulligan was flawlessly wearing the gist of the current fashion season, and although that made Daisy a little unnerved, she smiled humbly.

Leaving Jordan to socialise with the sham celebrity circles, Daisy sneaked away from the suffocating group of people unnoticed, and took a deep breath of fresh summer air. She was a little jaded, and the constant anticipation of seeing Jay Gatsby was gradually exhausting her mind. She stood, admiring spirit of reckless rebels; all the short, sleek hairstyles, all of the long gloves, cigarette holders, and girls applying make-up in public. Like a scrutinising judge of a competition, she challenged herself to count how many dresses she could identify during a walk around the garden. An emerald jewel colour cocktail dress by Albertra Ferretti was contrasting the deep green of the trees around it. It was more modern and less childish. Right next to the drop-waisted drape-backed Ferretti, there was a stunning Versus dress, a clear combat between Christopher Kane’s imagination and Donatella Versace’s fetish harshness.

It was a V-neck, knee-high, white with silver sequin beads placed in geometrical lines. White separators marked the waistline, and another one split it in half vertically, on both sides…

Daisy went into a gradual day dream, remembering the catwalk show in Milan that resembled a basketball court. She wasn’t sure about the sport, but the artistic interpretation made her grin. The grey floral patterns gently shifted around the dress as the lady wearing it slowly walked. Daisy didn’t realise that she was staring for a long time, because suddenly the lady hastened her step and moved into the house.

Where is he? She had looked everywhere, and the night had only a quarter of life left. The air was becoming nostalgic, slowly parting with its initial foolishness, becoming wiser and more settled. Daisy saw how the single girls hypnotised the older men by swooning forward teasingly into their arms or by resting their heads on men’s shoulders in a childish, convivial way. Tom must like that, Daisy thought.

She was feeling joyfully rekindled and strangely extracted from this parade, aware that everyone could see her, but knowing that she wasn’t really there… Slowly walking around, Daisy was admiring everything she saw, and clearly understood what everything meant. This night epitomised the mood of her past several years – it was all a catch-up game for all that time lost before. She remembered the war and how different her adoration of life was now.

The lifestyle suddenly became fast paced, secretly drowned in excessive amount of alcohol and drained in aches from dancing the night away to live jazz at a party…just like this one. Her husband is having an affair, and she didn’t care because she dreamed of someone else as well…

Was Daisy forgetting herself, drowning in a sea of deceits and artificial happiness?

Daisy’s heart was in a turbulent riot, knowing that the only thing that would rest it was Gatsby’s kiss. Then she felt it. He was standing behind her, gently running his tremoring finger, all the way from the shoulder to her wrist.

Daisy turned around very slowly…

The End

42 The Gift

The Thought

There is an unwritten rule about birthdays. For our rich friends we buy expensive gifts, and for our less fortunate ones, we buy ‘something original’. In 2012, we advise you to do the opposite.

The Designer

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owell, margaret In this gentle fashion image, Margaret Howell’s tailored navy shorts resemble those worn in the 1930s. Her clothes blend memories of England with the pleasure of wearing worn-in country clothes. The look was revolutionary when she began in the early 1970s, inspired by the nostalgic icons of British style, such as brogues, gymslips, sturdy tweed skirts, and her father’s gardening mac hanging on the back of a door. Howell’s menswear and womenswear collections were

launched in 1972, with an emphasis on tailoring. Howell has been so copied it almost obscures her contribution but her linen duster coats, shirt-dresses, floor-sweeping raincoats and tweed suits for women have an enduring appeal.

‘When I started out I was only thinking about what I wanted,’ she told Vogue. ‘I liked quality and comfort…I was probably responsible for the move towards using men’s tailoring tweeds for women’s clothes’.

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Missing you is my hobby, caring for you is my job,

he Thought

The Thought

-43-

making you happy is my duty, and loving you is my life.

Patricia Marx

The Thought

-44-

The Model

88. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

man

A slender sculpture in black velvet taffeta, Iman was dubbed Black Peal for her ebony-black beauty. The contours of her feline figure, boasting a perfect physique du role to flaunt the 1980s’ opulence, ensured that she was a true supermodel of her time. Her exotic presence on the catwalk made her a fetish model for Azzedine Alaia, Gianni Versace Thierry Mugler. Born Iman Abdulmajid in Somalia to a diplomat, she studied political science in Nairobi before being discovered by Peter Beard, the photographer who took her into the New York Fashion spotlight. A multimillion-dollar contract with Revlon in the late 1970s, as well as her marriage to rock star David Bowie and the launch of her own make-up range (especially devised for black women), have conferred on her almost mythical status among black models, a reputation shared only by Naomi Campbell and Beverly Johnson.

90. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

5 We think that 3D chalk optical illusion drawings are fascinating. And that’s that...

The Thought

TED Talk Video Marco Tempest: The magic of truth and lies

46 THE IMPOSSIBLE TO STOP

47 THE INEVITABLE TO HAPPEN

-48-

The Italian

immaculate beauty and perfection lamborghini special edition gallardo lp 550-2 tricolore

J

The Model

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ones, grace

Grace Jones poses for a Polaroid taken by her friend Antonio Lopez in his bathroom. Jones, with her Amazonian figure and short hair was the antithesis of femininity. The daughter of a Pentecostal minister, she rebelled against her strict upbringing and pursued a modelling career in Paris at a time when her theatrical attitude perfectly suited the extremes of the 1970s fashion: ‘Glitter?

Uh-huh. Platform shoes? Yeah…

It was sort of old Hollywood star stuff.’ Fashion centred on the flashy nightclub scene at Paris’s Club Sept, where Jones partied every night. Together with friend Jerry Hall, Jones brought outrageous performance modelling and, as a result, created a second career for herself. In the 1980s she turned music, cultivating an aggressive look of sharp, angular, leather clothes and a razored quiff to clothe her image as a modern diva.

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The Thought

THE JOY

Joyisanet of love by whichyou can catch souls.

Mother Teresa

The Thought

kitchens. The recipe requires

100. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

-51-

THE JUTE SOLE

BECAUSE YOU CAN’T AVOID IT FOREVER. (or maybe you can)

The Designer

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aran, donna ‘What do I need? How can dressing be simplified so that I can get on with my own life?’ Donna Karan’s own thoughts could be running through the head of the ‘first woman president’, who represents her own ideal: ultimately powerful and urban. Professional wearability dictates Karan’s work. Her first collection was a capsule wardrobe of separates based around the ‘body’ – a practical, stretchy, leotard shape with poppers at the crotch. Karan also designs to flatter the normal woman, saying, ‘You’ve gotta accentuate your positive to delete your negative,’ and only designs clothes that she would wear herself. Karan trained with Anne Klein, taking over the design with Louis Dell’Olio when Klein died in 1974.

Karan’s fidelity to Klein’s easy-to-wear never waned, but the 1990s she became increasingly interested in spiritual philosophies, and began producing looser, more sensual clothing.

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The Thought

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The Designer

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elong, lucien The sleeves of this black dress, silk velvet evening gown are intricately cut, in the style of a medieval robe, with pointed cuffs which swoop like swallows’ wings. The gown closely follows the shape of the figure, moulding the waist and the hips before widening into a skirt which flows softly into a train, like the outspread feathers of a bird’s tail. The birdlike character of the dress associated with the imagery of Surrealism, the dominant movement of the 1930s. Lelong, who opened his own couture house after the First World War, was president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne from 1937 to 1947. He persuaded the occupying Germans to allow French couture houses to remain in Paris rather than be transferred to Berlin or Vienna.

Through his efforts, at least one hundred fashion houses were kept running throughout the occupation of Paris from 1940 to 1944.

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The Place

in tHe neEd of -53A LAST MINUTE SHOP iT’s caLled ANTHROPOLOGIE anD can Be fOUnD aT: 158 Regent Street, London, W1B 5SW 131 - 141 King’s Road, London, SW3 4PW 39 - 41 George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2HN SELFRIDGES & CO Anthropologie Pop Up Shop Lower Ground Floor, Home Accessories 400 Oxford Street, London, W1A 1AB

oR HerE

HOW TO LIVE A LONG LIFE

-54-

8 hours sleep.

Always sleep on your right side.

Never have your bed by the wall.

Avoid the tobacco and tea.

Exercise your body.

Don’t keep animals where you sleep.

Have long walks in fresh air.

Regularly change your occupancy.

The Thought

Conform to your temperament.

The Designer

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iller, lee A model, with her painted nails, lipstick, coiffed hair and bias-cut dress, is a tantalizing version of the servicewomen she parades for. One stretches her arm to feel the cloth, the wearing of which, for most, would have been an impossible dream. Her unconscious touch renders the model as unreal as the image she projects.

American photographer Lee Miller is known for her poignant photographs taken during the Second World War as member of the London War Correspondents’ Corps. During this time, however, she also worked for Vogue. Her captivating photograph shows that Paris couture had lost none of its power during the war, and the city was well positioned to re-establish itself as a fashion leader.

In the late 1920s Miller was a model, photographer and writer for Vogue in New York. In 1929 she moved to Paris, where she lived and worked with Man Ray and was friendly with Picasso and the Surrealists.

THE DICTIONARY OF 124

Leonardo da Vinci

The Last Supper

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THE MEMORY On April 12, 1912, the legendary Titanic blew her whistle for the first time, and began its journey to New York, leaving thousands of people cheering in excitement all around the Southhampton port. This April marked one hundred years since then. She was the largest ship afloat at the time of her first and only voyage. Three days later, however, Titanic hit an iceberg, leading to its tragic fall, which caused 1,514 deaths and still remains one of the deadliest marine disasters in history.

RMS Titanic was a British passenger liner, the pride and joy of Harland and Wolff shipyard in

Belfast. It was designed to be the highest of luxury and comfort, with an on-board swimming pool, gym, libraries, restaurants better than ones on mainland, and cabins that were larger than an average house in England in that time. The ship carried 2,224 people (without the crew), and her passengers included some of the most influential and wealthy people in the world.

The unsinkable ship was much more than just as a new liner.

It symbolised people’s dreams for a new life in America, it reflected the social classes of the time, and it represented the

best of technology, affluence and entrepreneurship. Everyone celebrated its completion, everyone mourned its doom.

Prominent people began their investigation as to why the ship of dreams ever since right after the dreaded accident, until today. The mysterious story of Titanic will reveal new secrets in the future, and the fact that it’s waiting under the sea while life on Earth continues is even more enchanting.

For the century that’s passed since Titanic’s tragic fall, many films, plays, songs, novels, stories and myths were born. The first

THE

I am silver and exact. I have no preconceptions.

What ever you see I swallow immediately Just as it is, unmisted by love or dislike.

I am not cruel, only truthful--The eye of a little god, four-cornered.

Most of the time I meditate on the opposite wall.

It is pink, with speckles. I have looked at it so long I think it is a part of my heart. But it flickers.

Faces and darkness separate us over and over.

Now I am a lake. A woman bends over me, Searching my reaches for what she really is.

Then she turns to those liars, the candles or the moon.

I see her back, and reflect it faithfully.

She rewards me with tears and an agitation of hands.

I am important to her. She comes and goes.

Each morning it is her face that replaces the darkness.

In me she has drowned a young girl, and in me an old woman Rises toward her day after day, like a terrible fish.

By Sylvia Plath

The Thought

ever movie was filmed in 1929, and it was called The Titanic, then A Night To Remember came out in 1957, both based on Titanic’s fist and only voyage. But there is no argument that the biggest blockbuster to portray the story of the majestic ship was James Cameron’s Titanic, released in 1997, starring Leonardo DiCarpio and Kate Winslet. The film has been reinvented this year to commemorate the first century anniversary since the greatest, most heart-breaking, and truly epic ship tale in history.

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The Thought

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The moment you think you understand a great work of art, it’s dead for you.

Oscar Wilde

-60-

Composers shouldn’t think too much - it interferes with their plagiarism.

The Thought

Howard Dietz

of

Otto Weininger

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MYSTERY

The Tailor

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Mick Jagger married Bianca Perez Moreno de Marcias at the town hall in St Tropez in 1971. He wears a suit by Tommy Nutter, the man who opened the doors to Savile Row to a new generation (and also cut both John Lennon’s and Yoko Ono’s wedding suits). After studying architecture, he had answered an advertisement for a salesman at the Savile Row tailors G. Ward and Co. In 1969 he opened Nutters in Savile Row. His three-piece suits were styled with narrow, square shoulders, wide lapels, tight waists, tightly crotched flared trousers, and waistcoats. Charming and shy, Nutter was a frontman for the company which, employing master cutters and tailors, made the Savile Row bespoke suit fashionable again. In 1976 he left the company and joined tailors Kilgour French and Stanbury. He is still remembered with affection and respect by the tailors of Savile Row. ‘He was a modern stylist,’ said one. ‘He brought fashion here.’

utter, tommy

62

BE NAUGHTY LA PERLA

When we put suspenders on, we either get absolutely miserable, or filled with irrational overjoy. Then we can do anything (except compromise with our accessory). There is no point of the suspenders unless they’re matched with elegance and style; silicon socks should never replace them. If you want to feel glamorous and a little naughty, say: La Perla !

The Place

63

-64-

The Night Night, the beloved. Night, when words fade and things come alive. When the destructive analysis of day is done, and all that is truly important becomes whole and sound again.

When man reassembles his fragmentary self and grows with the calm of a tree.

Antoine de Saint-ExupĂŠry

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ALWAYS REMEMBER, MONEY ISN’T EVERYTHING - BUT ALSO REMEMBER TO MAKE A LOT OF IT BEFORE TALKING SUCH FOOL NONSENSE. Earl Wilson

The Thought

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WARM LEATHERETTE A SONG BY

-66-

THE NORMAL

The Thought

SCAN HERE TO LISTEN

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The Thought

THE NUISANCE

nobody has to be this organised.

O

The Designer

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ldfield, bruce

Bruce Oldfield reclines next to his black silk crepe evening dress. The bodice is ruched with gold lame and the mannequin wears shows

by Charles Jourdin: together they present a collaboration of deluxe fantasy. Oldfield once claimed, ‘I can make any woman look better.

That’s what I do.’ His starry clientele has ranged from aristocrats to soap queens; the Princess of Wales to Joan Collins. The glamour could hardly be further removed from Oldfield’s childhood in a Dr Bernando’s home.

His foster mother was a seamstress

and it was from her that Oldfield first developed his interest in fashion.

He presented his first solo, ready-towear collection in London in 1975.

His Beauchamp Palace shop opened in 1984, attracting a strong following from the Knightsbridge and Chelsea ‘ladies who lunch’. The fashion writer Sizy Menkes, who selected his design as the Dress of the Year in 1985, praised ‘his skills as a dressmaker, his belief in cut, line and silhouette, his standards of workmanship and his conception of women’.

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68

THE OFFICE BUILDING

The Place

“...Quite the most notorious thing in New York and attracts more attention than all the other buildings now going up together...”

Architectural Record, 1902

The point offices of the famous Flatiron building in New York are only six feet wide. Your office is bigger...

69

THE OPERA

“I don’t think an opera house is ever a place that can make you entirely happy”.

The Place

Bernard Haitink

The most majestic and heart-filling opera house in the world is the Parisian one. No doubt. No argument.

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70

The Thought

The Original

There is nothing to say about Coca Cola, apart from that it’s one of the best products ever developed. The history of the company is long, and its vision is even longer. We here at The Dictionary are real Coke devotees, and when we say Coke - we mean the original. Not: Spar Cola, Afri Cola, Derby Cola, Vita Cola, M&S Cola, and definitely NOT Pepsi. We love the fact that the company gets involved in all sorts of community and global projects.

We sincerely wait for the magic of the Coke’s Christmas ad. We hate that KFC serves Pepsi, and love that McDonald’s serves real coke.

Try walking in London for more than five minutes without seeing something coke related. It’s not possible. Yes, the billboards and the famous Coca Cola signature might be everywhere, but so what - it’s the best drink in the world.

The Product

The time will come when we will have to go and buy him a pair of good shoes. There’s nothing wrong with that, if anything...we prefer to hold full control of any situation that involves his presentable appearance.

It’s difficult to get it wrong with this Ermenegildo Zegna’s Wingcap Oxford shoe in black features toecap detailing and tonal stitching.

P

The Photographer

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arkingson, norman

Norman Parkinson evokes the breathtaking thrill of Paris first seen from the air in this editorial picture taken in 1960. He was a realist who took fashion photography outdoors. After the Second Wold War, he embarked upon a successful career in fashion photography for Vogue, pioneering the use of colour. Parkinson had a feeling for the essentials of fashion to which he brought great urbanity, charm and sophisticated wit. In colour and composition, his fashion photographs have often been compared to the paintings of John Singer Sargent.

During the 1950s he became a portrait photographer for the British royal family. He was the official photographer for the wedding of Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips in 1973 and photographed the Queen Mother on her eightieth birthday in 1980.

His wife, Wenda Parkingson, was a celebrated fashion model, whom he often photographed. Together they brought the new cosmopolitan spirit of intercontinental jet travel to the pages of Vogue in spectacular fashion shoots.

The Product

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Lignes Urbaines evokes the structural architecture and the throbbing energy of the world’s greatest urban centres, while its permanently brilliant finish creates a fascinating play of light that recalls the infinity of reflections from the facades of these incredible constructions.

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THE PERFUME What do I wear in bed?

Why, Chanel No. 5, of course.

The Thought

Marilyn Monroe

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The Product

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An after-sun care that is both soothing and moisturizing and, featuring a light selftanning effect to make your tan last longer.

After-Sun Care Tan Extender is specifically designed to help moisturize, repair and cool instantly skin after sun exposure.

-75THE PILL Barlean’s

The Product

It is always better to have a lifestyle, which doesn’t push us into using pharmaceutical medicaments. Our secret weapon is the pure, unfiltered and unrefined flaxseed oil from Barlean’s. It is GOOD for the skin, the hair, the joints; it minimises cholesterol levels and stimulates brain activity.

We’re not your doctor… so you can trust us.

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The Product

THE PLATFORM

Lanvin’s Cypher platform sandal in black features a peep-toe design and wooden wedge heel. It’s a versatile statement style for the summer.

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THE POINT OF VIEW The Thought

matters.

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The Thought

nobody’s

pool

is this cool.

79

What’s in the public interest is not always what the public is interested in.

The Thought

the popular

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THE PREGNANCY

The Thought

is beautiful.

-81-

THE PROCEDURE

The Thought

is unnecessary.

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The Product

THE PULLOVER

The unwritten rule: ALWAYS have a knitted pullover in your wardrobe.

Transition the seasons in style with Isabel Marant’s open-knit linen sweater. Wear this versatile piece to offset pretty pastel shorts or a metallic maxi skirt.

-83-

The Thought

THE PYJAMA

Q

The Designer

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uant, mary

Mary Quant (centre) and her models epitomize the spirit of the youthquake in ‘kooky’ poses, minilengths and trademark haircuts by Vidal Sassoon. This era-defining picture represents the image of desire of the newly liberated women of the ‘swinging sixties’ and Quant’s 1965 miniskirt was dubbed the ‘gymslip of the permissive society’. She was, she said, inspired by the clothes dancers wear for rehearsal. In 1955, Quant and her husband/partner Alexander Plunket Greene opened a boutique,

Bazaar, in London’s King’s Road, selling clothes which expressed the anti-establishment mood. A second shop, designed by Terence Conran, opened in 1957. Her fashion shows, with models Jean Shrimpton and Grace Coddington, revolutionized catwalk style. While Courréges claims to have invented the miniskirt and Balenciaga first used dancers’ tights for everyday wear, Quant married them in a style which was both appealing to young women and affordable.

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-84THE QUESTIONABLE

The Thought

Michael Jackson

-85THE QUIRKY

The Thought

Marilyn Monroe

The Cosmetics Designer

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ubinstein, helena ‘Life Red comes to life on your lips’ claims Helena Rubinstein’s fresh-faced advertisement from the 1940s. The healthy image promoted

by Rubinstein’s make-up and skin creams was born in a laboratory. She had wanted to study medicine but, denied her chance, left Poland to live with an uncle in Australia. She started to sell face cream, Crele Valaze, brought from home to protect her complexion from the sun. Successful small skincare school followed and when one of her seven sisters joined her, Rubinstein studied with the best European dermatologists. Her white-coated approach to cosmetics resulted in several innovations, including the first skin cream to use male and female hormones in an attempt to delay the process of ageing. Her artistic credentials were also impeccable – in Paris she became friend and patron to Matisse, Dufy, Dali and Cocteau.

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The Product

THE RAINCOAT

It might be too classic, or typical...but it is the best. A Burberry London trench coat is one of the smartest wardrobe investments a woman can make, so opt for this city-cool olive gabardine version. A modern take on the British label’s signature design, this coverup features asymmetric pockets and black leather trims. Wear this ever-chic layer day or night with just about any outfit - for a contemporary finish, team it with a richlyhued top and printed pants.

-87-

The Thought

Gardens need a regular scrape in order to breathe.

Like them, our wardrobes passionately wait for the spring and autumn clean-up.

Use a rake to pull into the light all those clothes piled at the back of your closet...

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THE

There ain’t no reason things are this way.

Its how they always been and they intend to stay.

I can’t explain why we live this way, we do it everyday.

REASON

Preachers on the podium speakin’ to saints..

Prophet on the sidewalk beggin’ for change, Old ladies laughing from the fire escape, cursing my name.

I got a basket full of lemons and they all taste the same, A window and a pigeon with a broken wing, You can spend your whole life workin’ for something Just to have it taken away.

People walk around pushin back their debts.

Wearing pay checks like necklaces and bracelets, Talking ‘bout nothing, not thinking ‘bout death, Every little heartbeat, every little breath.

People walk a tight rope on a razors edge Carrying their hurt and hatred and weapons.

It could be a bomb or a bullet or a pen Or a thought or a word or a sentence.

There Ain’t no reason things are this way.

It’s how they always been and they intend to stay I don’t know why I say the things I say, but I say them anyway.

But love will come set me free Love will come set me free, I do believe Love will come set me free, I know it will Love will come set me free, yes.

Prison walls still standing tall, Some things never change at all.

Keep on buildin’ prisons, gonna fill them all, Keep on buildin’ bombs, gonna drop them all.

Workin’ your fingers bare to the bone, Breakin’ ya back, make ya sell your soul, Like a lung thats filled with coal, suffocating slow The wind blows wild and I may move, The politicians lie and I am not fooled.

You don’t need no reason or a three piece suit to argue the truth.

The air on my skin and the world under my toes, Slavery stitched into the fabric of my clothes, Chaos and commotion wherever I go, love I try to follow.

Love will come set me free Love will come set me free, I do believe Love will come set me free, I know it will Love will come set me free, yes.

The Thought

By Bret Dennen

Listen to the song.

89

Everybody has their own personal way of relaxing. What’s important is that it’s regularly practiced and always cherished. How do you relax?

The Thought

RELAXATION

160. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

90

THE RETRO

“Let us strive to improve ourselves, for we cannot remain stationary; one either progresses or retrogrades.”

The Thought

Mme Du Deffand

-91-

The Product

When it comes to your homewear - your skin cannot be submitted to anything else but the best. Cut from liquid silk-satin with split kimono sleeves, Jenny Packham’s luxurious graphite and champagne robe will make an elegant addition to your loungewear collection. Pair it with a lace chemise for the ultimate in boudoir glamour.

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The Product

When we talk robust we talk of unbreakable furniture.Marks & Spencer offers a beautifully hand crafted corner table, predominantly from solid mango wood and mango veneer. This range features a handcut and inlaid decorative marble mosaic pattern and antique brass-effect handles. It displays the characteristics of solid mango, such as colour variation, knots and figuring. A low-sheen lacquer provides added durability. This is robust.

be aware!

ROMANCE causes more sleep more music more tea more books more sunsets more creativity more long walks more laughter more hugs more hopes more adventures more fun more love.

94

The Thought

THE RHYTHM

The Designer

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SL aint

Yves Saint Laurent dresses model Rene Russo in a polished evening suit, framing her face (simply made0up by Way Brandy) with feathers. Since the 1960s ‘YSL’ has been a directional and determining force in modern fashion. He introduces masculine tailoring for women, using military uniforms and variations on the tuxedo or ‘le smoking’, and took street style and peasant costume and turned them into luxurious options for women.

Saint Laurent has often referred to art, basing designs and embroidery on paintings by Mondrian, Marisse, Picasso and Braque, but always taking them as historical icons and making them current. Saint Laurent said, ‘Like Proust, I’m fascinated most of all by my perceptions of a world in awesome tradition.’ Great fascination is about cutting those moments of tradition out of cloth. He once described what he did as a ‘minor art’ but later added the words ‘maybe it is not so minor after all’.

aurent, yves

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The Product

THE SCARF

THE SOCIAL EXPERIMENT

The Dictionary team was interviewed about the what happens after death and what are the qualities of a life fully lived.

Alone in the room with a camera rolling...

The Thought

Project director and video editor: Niels Eselgroth Watch video here:

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The Product

Bronnley

This is the only kind of soap you will find in the bathrooms of Buckingham Palace.

But if you never get invited to dine with the Queen, you can feel like one in your own home. The Bronnley soap has a few advantages. In its natural ingredients it holds the two most significant natural moisturisers – lanoline and almond oil.

It leaves a discrete aromatic trail after use, and it is made in various sizes and packages. The collections exemplify fruits, flowers and exotic destinations. Some Bronnley soaps come with a miniature rope for comfort.

Traditionally English, Naturally Beautiful H.Bronnley & Co.

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THE SOCKS

The Product

98

HAPPY SOCKS A rigid standard of ultimate quality, craftsmanship, and creativity. We love Happy Socks! The Swedish brand is becoming more and more popular, and if you don’t have a pair yet - it’s time. They really do make you happy.

the sofa

The Product

must be comfortable

SLOUCH LOVESEAT

BY HEAL’S

100

BE SUCCESSFULL

The Product

THE LIBERTY PRINT

The Designer

174. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

iffany, charles, lewis Audrey Hepburn’s role as Holly Golightly in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s made the jewellery store, whose clients have included Queen Victoria, even more famous. In this photograph, Hepburn wears a Givenchy dress and the priceless ‘Ribbon’ necklace made by Jean Schlumberger, the celebrated Parisian jeweller, who worked for Tiffany&Co from the 1950s until his death in 1987.

The centrepiece of the necklace, which is made from eighteen-carat gold, platinum and white diamonds, is the Tiffany diamond, bought by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1877 for $18,000. Rather than selling it, Tiffany placed it in the window of his New York store; it is still there today. Charles’s son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso continued to keep Tiffany at the forefront of jewellery design. It is regarded as a fashion-friendly company for its broad range – providing grandeur, worn here by Hepburn, and for delicate, modern pieces for younger women.

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102 The Talent

WON PARK

The Thought

THE MASTER OF ORIGAMI

And he lives in a garbage truck.

THE TEA

THE TEA

THE TEA

103 Harney & Sons When it comes to tea, this brand is he best.

Harney & Sons have the best of all tea, fruit and herbs. When you’re not in the company of he Queen, you can try it in The Ritz, Dochester or the Four Seasons.

Their English Breakfast “is a fine, dark brew with an ever so slight smokiness and a crisp, dry finish. Just a touch of cream and sugar will round out the flavor and soften the edges, but too much will chase away its complexity. It has a bold yet subtle and slightly mysterious character, like a demure beauty whose understated elegance belies a ruthless cunning.”

- Tea Expert

The Product

THE TEA

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JUST IN CASE YOU’VE FORGOTTEN: THIS IS A TELEPHONE

The Thought

“The achievement of one goal should be the starting point of another.”

Alexander Graham Bell

-104-

105

THE TIGHTS

We are going to be absolutely predictable and bet on the Austrian brand Wolford, a leading innovator of women’s hosiery and lingerie. The two most important traits in any pair of tights are: durability and pattern. Wolford’s collections amaze us all the time, and the quality stamp has been put to the test since 1949.

The Product

WOLFORD

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”

The Thought

John Wooden

-106the time

107

Just in case you’ve been away from this planet for the past couple of years, then you wouldn’t know that electric toothbrushes have been rejected by dentists. Let’s go back to basics with Elgydium Toothbrushes, which contain 2,000 carefully produced bristles, each with a rounded tip to prevent damage to the gums. They are available in 3 bristle textures; Hard, Medium and Soft.

The Product

Elgydium

182. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

108

The Product

Fun Factory Delight Fun Factory Delight is a vibrator of a new generation. It has a peculiar shape, but after the first test-drive the advantages are crystal clear. The position it takes is precise, and without any extra movements – it stimulates all the right places. Apart from that, it immediately adapts to the body temperature, due to its coating in medical silicon. Ladies, just don’t get too captivated…

109

TRAPPED in pixels

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Martini Glass

Heart Attack

Mohawk

Bermuda Triangle

110

The Thought

Landing Strip

Postage Stamp

Clean as a Whistle

111

Sportmax The good T-Shirts are made from soft, well-draped jersey. In 2012 we bet on Sportsmax because of their lively prints, fabric manipulations (they have amazing t-shirts combining fur and cotton) and interesting cut of the sleeves and necklines.

The Product

The T-Shirt

U

The Designer

186. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

ngaro, emmanuel

This minidress by Ungaro shows him to be in touch with the flower power mood of the late 1960s and demonstrates his love of delicate fabric and surface detail. Yet, the acute sense of cut remains. The son of an Italian tailor, Ungaro’s favourite toy at six years old was his father’s sewing machine and he became a tailor at fourteen. In 1955 he moved to Paris and was introduced to Balenciaga by Courréges. He joined the Spaniard’s house in 1958 and stayed for six years. Having learnt he master’s rigorous attitude to cut, he opened his own couture business in 1965 with simple, bold garments such as blazers worn with shorts.

Four years later, along with Cardin and Courréges, Ungaro created a new nudeness in French fashion, but by the 1979s his style had softened. His 1980s eveningwear used vivid florals cut and ruched to form extremely ladylike, grown-up versions of his girlish dress from 1969.

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112

The Thought

AN UGLY

190. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

-113-

THE

The Product

Accent your look with gothic glamour Alexander McQueen black umbrella with gold metal skull handle. Carry it to add drama to minimalist tailoring.

The Thought

-114-

The Edior

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reeland, diane The epitome of a jolie laide, Diana Vreeland was the beautiful swan and the ugly duckling of fashion, complete with kabuki-like make-up. From 1937 to the 1980s, she was an arbiter of style, first as an editor-writer of Harper’s Bazaar where she was most remembered for her short-lived but legendary ‘Why don’t You…’ column, which made insouciant suggestions in defiance of Depression-era gloom.

Throughout her life, Vreeland had a way with words: her phrases (some sublime, such as ‘elegance is refusal’) and elegantly turned truisms (such as ‘pink is the navy blue of India’) have become fashion clichés. From 1962 to 1971, as editor-in-chief of Vogue, Vreeland gave the magazine the energy of the jet age and youth, making it a showcase for favoured photographers Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. In 1972 she became consultant to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

115 THE VEIL

symbolises our purity and innocence. really?

-116-

THE VICE

THE DICTIONARY OF 124

During the sixties, all women lost

-117-

their virginity

The Icon

198. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

‘A fashion is a form of dress so unbearable we are compelled to alter it every six months,’ said Oscar Wilde in 1884, citing Paris as a centre of sartorial tyranny.

This is Wilde photographed in New York in 1882. The picture reflects the writer’s campaign for men’s dress reform. He wears knee breeches (the artistic alternative to trousers which he called boring tubes), a smoking jacket (a recent addition to the male wardrobe) and a comfortable, nonconformist soft

ilde, oscar collar and cravat. Between 1887 and 1889, he was editor of Woman’s World magazine, which promoted the aesthetic dress sold at Liberty. By 1890, apart from his green carnation or lily buttonhole, Wilde had decided to wear conventional dress. In The Picture of Dorian Gray, he pronounced conventional dress for men to be the most beautiful in the world, stating, ‘It is only the shallow people who do not judge by appearances.’

200. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

118

the waistline The Thought

The most popular Burlesque persona wears a piece by the most celebrated corsetry designer in the world. Dita Von Tease’s waist is beautifully tightened by a Mr Pearl creation, as if it was always meant to be....

119

water

is a necessity of life and label should never matter.

202. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

-120-

THE WHITE

The Thought

some albums just have to be heard again...and again...

Tracks 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Back In The Ussr Dear Prudence Glass Onion Ob-La-Di Ob-La-Da Wild Honey Pie The Continuing Story Of Bungalow Bill While My Guitar Gently Weeps Happiness Is The Warm Gun Martha My Dear I’m So Tired Blackbird Piggies Rocky Raccoon Don’t Pass Me By Why Don’t We Do It In The Road I Will Julia Birthday Yer Blues Mother Nature’s Son Everybody’s Got Something To Hide Except Me And My Monkey Sexy Sadie Helter-Skelter Long, Long, Long Revolution Honey Pie Savoy Truffle Cry Baby Cry Revolution 9 Good Night

-121-

THE WINE GLASS can be stemless The Original and Best Stemless Wine Tumbler

The Product

Riedel Cabarnet - Merlot Series O

122

THE WINTER

IS THE SPRING OF GENIUS

IT IS HARD TO BE

A WOMAN -123-

You must think like a man, Act like a lady, Look like a young girl, Work like a horse, And fuck like a rabbit.

206. THE DICTIONARY OF 124

Don’t call it

A ZIPPO

if it isn’t a zippo!

The Product

S.T. Dupont Minijet

The S.T. Dupont Minijet has a streamlined, elegant and contemporary design. Its very powerful jetflame allows an efficient lighting in all conditions. Its very light weight makes it a portable product. It is simple and ergonomic to use. It is simply better...

The Last Supper

by Leonardo Da Vinci

the original

Index A G Appearance Apron Aroma Audio

6 7 8 9

Bakery Bag Bathtub Bed Bicycle Biscuits Boat Body Product Book Book Market Boot Burlesque

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24

Car Cartier Chocolate Cigarette City hotel Cocktail Coffee Coffee Machine Cognac Computer Cutlery

34 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45

Definition Destination Detox Shop Dress

48 49 50 51

Earrings Ecstasy Escape

54 66 67

B

C

D E

F

Flip Flops Family Fight Flower Fresh Air Fruit Shop F Word

70 71 72 73 74 75

Gallery Garden Gatsby’s Kiss Gift

H

78 79 80 83

happiness hobby

86 87

Illusions Impossible Inevitable Italian

90 92 93 94

I

J

Joy Juice Jute Sole

K Kiss

98 99 100

104

L

Last Minute Shop 108 Longevity 109

M

Master Masterpiece Memory Mirror Moment Music Mystery

N

Naughty Neighbourhood Night Nonsense Normal Nuisance

112 113 114 115 116 117 118

122 123 124 126 127 128

O

Office Building Opera Original Oxford Shoe

P

132 133 134 135

Pen Perfume Pigment Pill Platform Point of View Pool Popular Pregnancy Procedure Pullover Pyjama

138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149

Questionable Quirky

152 153

Q R

Raincoat Rake Reason Relaxation Retro Robe Robust Romance Rythm

156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 163

S

166

Scarf Social Experiement Soap Socks Sofa Successful Suitcase

167 168 170 171 172 173

T

Talent Tea Telephone Tights Time Toothbrush Toy Trapped Trim T-Shirt

176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185

Ugly Umbrella Unintended

188 190 191

Veil Vice Virginity

194 195 196

U

V

W

Waistline Water White Wine Glass Winter Woman

200 201 202 203 204 205

Zippo

206

Z

Text

Images

The Fashion Book 76, 84, 88, 96, 102, 106, 110, 120. 130, 136, 150, 154, 164, 174, 186, 192, 198 Retailer’s /Place’s Personal Archive 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 41, 42, 43, 50, 78, 135, 138, 156, 161, 177, 206.

The Fashion Book 5, 11, 33, 47, 53, 69, 77, 85, 97, 103, 107, 111, 121, 131, 137, 151, 155, 165, 175, 187, 199 J-Magazine Online 3, 15, 49, 67, 87, 98, 104, 105, 116, 119, 124, 126, 143, 159, 172, 180, 183, 191, 204, 211, 212, 216 Retailer’s /Place’s Personal Archive 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 23, 36, 39, 41, 42, 45, 50, 74, 94, 100, 122, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 148, 156, 161, 162, 166, 168, 169, 170, 171, 173, 177, 179, 181, 182, 185, 190, 203, 206 Frieke Janssens 38 Brainsky 22 Mwape Ndilila 70 Graphic Design Students, UCA 112,113 Daphni Kontou 152,153 Won Park 176 Personal Archive 12, 48, 72, 132

Photo Shoots

Burlesque Photo Shoot 24-31t Phtographer: Sven Eselgroth Model: Helen Bachelor Hair&Make-up: Bathany Jane Davies Stylist: Gemma Latham Photography Assistant: David Simpson Earrings Photo Shoot 54-65 Photographer: Nicola Lamburov Model: Viktoriya Yaprakova Hair&Make-up: Patsy Collins Stylist: Dima Markova Earrings: Make-Me-Beautiful Photo Edit: Mwape Ndilila Behind the Scenes Video: Niels Eselgroth

+44 (0) 7415784474

This dictionary was crafted and bound by hand.

Published by Niels Eselgroth.