ON THE LAKE volume 1 issue 1 by Dino Marketing Group

Boatersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association of Michigan

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Welcome

rom the thousands of inland lakes to the four Great Lakes that surround our state, water is woven into the fabric of Michigan’s identity. We are the Great Lakes state. Whether you own a boat, work in our state’s unparalleled boating industry or simply love the outdoors, water affects our lives and touches each and every one of us. A beautiful state deserves a beautiful magazine. Welcome to On the Lake, a world-class magazine that celebrates the very best of Michigan in a truly immersive experience—without advertisements. With each issue, we strive to capture the lifestyle of our state and the integral role that our lakes play in it. From awe-inspiring dunes and expertly crafted boats to award-winning wineries and mouthwatering fudge, this state’s wonders are meant to be enjoyed and shared. Michigan’s shores and waters enable us to explore new places and create indelible memories with our loved ones. If you love boating and share our desire to protect our state’s pristine waters, we encourage you to join the Boaters’ Association of Michigan. BAM unites all boating enthusiasts with a common desire to support our way of life and ensure the health and accessibility of our lakes, rivers and shores. BAM exists in tandem with the Michigan Boating Industries Association, an

organization that generously supports and helps produce this exquisite magazine, and together we serve as the voice of recreational boating in Michigan and the marine businesses that call our state home. One of the many benefits of joining BAM is that you will continue to receive this magazine, along with special opportunities and offers exclusively available to BAM members. The wonders of Michigan never cease to amaze. Its endless natural beauty should be honored in an elegant way. We believe this magazine exemplifies the best of what our state has to offer, and we are proud to present it to you.

Jim Coburn Chairman of the MBIA Board of Directors

MBIA Board of Directors Jim Coburn, Chairman

David Lyle

Mike Apling, Vice Chair

Andy MacLachlan

Tom Den Herder, Secretary/Treasurer

Patti Smith

Amy Crouchman

Tim Tadsen

Tom Haag

Warren Wolf

Chris Lisowicz Visit mbia.org for a listing of Michigan’s top marine businesses and access to a comprehensive product and services guide. This valuable resource is also available in a mobile friendly format for all boaters in Michigan.

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Photo by Suzanne Tucker

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contents

4 State of the Great Lakes Healthier waterways bring better boating and more enjoyment on the Great Lakes. Plus, learn about the inspiring cleanup of Lake Macatawa.

7 Come Back to Boating Whether it’s been five years or 20, now is the perfect time to revive your passion for boating.

8 safe Harbors Michigan’s many harbors mean you’re never far from a port in a storm or world-class amenities. Top picks make your next cruise easy.

12 Chain Reaction Michigan’s chains of inland lakes inspire unique boating adventures. Uncover some new trailering trips for your next long weekend.

16 The Big Bite Chasing the king of sport fish, the mighty musky, on fishing hotspot Lake St. Clair.

20 A Taste of Michigan Take a look inside Ryba’s Fudge Shops, created by “Fudge King” Harry Ryba, to discover how fudge became the signature treat of Michigan resort towns.

24 Frozen Explore the rugged beauty of Lake Superior’s dramatic ice caves.

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32 Race of a Lifetime The Chicago Yacht Club’s Race to Mackinac Island is a legendary sail that challenges participants and showcases the beauty of Lake Michigan.

40 Sunset Side Journey to Michigan’s western coast to enjoy unrivaled beauty and fabulous small towns.

46 Visions in Wood Michigan’s Van Dam Boats has been creating floating pieces of art since 1976.

52 Michigan Wine Country A thriving wine industry has bloomed near Traverse Bay, Michigan. Here’s where to taste the region’s best new Chardonnays, Rieslings and Merlots.

56 Boater’s Paradise Seventy years ago the auto industry helped develop the Detroit area’s middle class, and Lake St. Clair’s Nautical Mile was born.

60 The Wonder of Dunes Michigan’s dunes are astounding natural wonders. Discover the top beaches and parks to put your toes in the sand.

68 Michigan Made In a state with a deep boating tradition, countless marine companies thrive. Here’s a closer look at some of the businesses that call Michigan home.

72 Restoring Sea Lion Local marina owner Chip Miller renews the glory of William Clay Ford Sr.’s personal speedboat.

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State of the Great Lakes

s the “Great Lakes State,” Michigan has an outsized interest in—and feels an outsized impact from—the water system’s well-being. There are both good and bad reports coming from the conservation community, but the general trend points in the right direction…though there’s still a long way to go. Your membership in the Boaters’ Association of Michigan supports lobbying and educational efforts to ensure this trend is maintained and accelerated. Water Levels

Great Lakes water levels fluctuate constantly, sometimes wildly so. Natural causes like regional precipitation and evaporation rates, and human-influenced factors such as climate change and outflow control, all keep water levels in a constant state of flux. Periods of extended drought and low water levels are followed by extended periods of exactly the opposite. The current trend has been slightly downward, but the swing in levels between consecutive years has been tightening for the last decade.

This latter fact has allowed for better shore and harbor management and a more consistent and predictable experience for boaters. The DNR is expecting water levels to continue to rise for at least the next two years. It’s a good time to be a Michigan boater! Algae

Algae blooms on the lakes, most particularly on shallow and nutrient-rich Lake Erie and Saginaw Bay, have been a persistent and vexing problem since at least the 1960s. The primary cause is increased phosphorous loads. Sewage treatment improvements over the last 50 years have allowed Lake Erie to transition from the “Dead Lake” to “Walleye Capital of the World,” but harmful changes in agricultural practices (fertilizer adjustments and erosion issues) have brought the problem back. On a positive note, industrial, academic and agricultural groups are all addressing the phosphor load: Scotts® Miracle-Gro® removed all phosphorous from its lawn care products in 2013; the sewage-treatment industry has

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Seeking Clarity on Macatawa

( continued from page 4 ) been tightening and maintaining its compliance with mandated standards; universities are leading the charge on monitoring and remediation efforts; and farmers groups have established “best practices” to reduce phosphorous and erosion. If these efforts gain pace, the annual algae bloom will begin to have less and less of an impact. Fisheries and Invasive Species

Generally, this is a “no news is good news” area of the Great Lakes health report card. There is species-byspecies news but mostly within the expected variance of large natural systems: Some sport fish varieties are slightly up, others are slightly down. Cooperation among state and tribal agencies across the region helps manage this fishery variation on a lake-by-lake basis through changes to stocking plans and other tactics. There is also wider cooperation and agreed-upon response protocols for dealing with invasive species, which have stabilized the economic impacts of invaders across the region at “only” $5.7 billion per year. The big new players remain Asian carp and the European frog-bit aquatic plant, but improved reporting and response mechanisms have the DNR feeling confident in its approach. Those are the big Great Lakes health checkboxes, but efforts to protect this fantastic resource are much more granular, including relatively extensive remediation and redevelopment efforts in former trouble spots. You can look deeper at all the stats and efforts at michigan.gov/deqogl. — Randy Hess

aterway health impacts people, not just government agencies and economies. It makes sense that people can undertake the change required to fix their local waterways. That’s the bottom-up idea behind Project Clarity, a local effort to clean up the Lake Macatawa watershed. Local organizations, individuals, universities, government units and businesses contributed funding, in-kind donations and people power to build a network and establish goals for Project Clarity. It kicked off with a research stage to locate the causes behind the lake’s primary problems: sedimentation and excess nutrient load. The problem is bad enough that you can easily see the dramatic difference in water color as Macatawa flows out its channel into Lake Michigan. “With the historic loss of wetlands and floodplain, water from rain events that used to take weeks or months to reach the lake now get there within days, carrying greater sediment and nutrient loads,” explains Dan Callam, greenway manager for the Outdoor Discovery Center in Holland. “The result is algae blooms and a significant decrease in biodiversity. It’s not just a Lake Macatawa issue, it’s systemic throughout the watershed and its waters going out into Lake Michigan. It took a long time to cause the problem, and it’s going to take some time to fix this. But with the whole community involved, we can start having an impact right away.” An initial funding goal of $12 million was established for remediation projects where the greatest impact can be achieved soonest and to help spread awareness and to get more people involved. Within 10 years, the project is aiming to reduce sedimentation and pollution in the lake by up to 70 percent and to become a model for other watersheds around the country that are experiencing similar issues. Visit macatawaclarity.org for more information and to watch a documentary explaining the project and how to save a lake. — Randy Hess

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Come Back to Boating

“

at heart? Hold an on-water picnic under starry skies. Whatever the stage of your life, boating evolves to fit you perfectly, and there’s no better time to come back to it. Memories made near the water always seem to be more permanent. Indulge in that sense of peace and calm, remembering your first kiss or first ice cream cone. While a friend you’ve fallen away from might be hard to ring out of the blue, boating is always there—a home you can always return to no matter how long it’s been. Get on the water this summer, and remember what you’ve been missing. Remember why boating days are the sweetest days of all. — Alexa M. Poteet

Michigan historically has been a top place in the U.S. to go fishing and boating, and I can certainly understand why. In addition to the four Great Lakes, fishing in Michigan also offers anglers their choice of scenic rivers, streams or glacial lakes that include a variety of popular fish species including northern pike, smallmouth bass, largemouth bass, walleye, muskellunge and more. — Frank Peterson, President & CEO of the Recreational Boating & Fishing Foundation

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“

s we get older and busier certain pastimes can fall by the wayside. Perhaps your fishing tackle is collecting dust or your waterskis are somewhere in the garage under years of storage. What are you waiting for? You can’t minimize life’s obligations, but you can make the stress they cause melt away by returning to something you love. This summer, reclaim the water and yourself. Revive your passion for boating. Being on the water is fulfilling because it is the ultimate reflection of you. Love wacky adventures with your kids? Take them tubing. Solitude more your thing? Enjoy a coffee and the newspaper in a quaint inlet. A romantic

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Safe Harbors Michigan’s harbors provide supplies, sightseeing and a safe place to moor.

Story by Alexa M. Poteet

hile some may settle for “any port in a storm,” in Michigan your choices are far better. From marinas with efficient pump-out and cold sodas to larger harbors with golf courses and rental cars, Michigan boasts a series of convenient public and private harbors to perfectly suit your cruising needs, no matter where you head. The state of Michigan has more than 400 privately owned marinas and sponsors 81 harbors—each about 30 miles apart—to provide refuge throughout its four Great Lakes. These locations provide launch ramps and boat supplies along the Great Lakes’ shorelines as well as a good base for exploring charming coastal towns. While the proximity of these wonderful resources to one another invites spontaneous cruising adventures, planned trips are equally easy thanks to an online-reservation system managed by the Department of Natural Resources. Boaters can make slip reservations online at 34 harbors

throughout the Great Lakes up to six months in advance, so making plans to moor your boat can be as effortless as cruising on a beautiful day. The Michigan Department of Natural Resources publishes the Michigan Harbors Guide as the ultimate resource for boaters. Listing the location and amenities of Michigan’s many harbors, it provides photos and descriptions of each port to prepare boaters for perfect days along Michigan’s coast. The guide can also be downloaded online for superb ease whether you’d like an online consultation or to print it to keep aboard your vessel. Cruising is about more than long days with the wind in your hair and the sun on your cheek. Keeping safe and enjoying all the hospitality Michigan’s shoreline harbors have to offer make boating around the state truly unforgettable. Peruse the next pages for some top spots to moor while cruising all of Michigan’s beautiful waterways.

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Notable Harbors

1) Lake Erie Metro Park Harbor of Refuge This beautiful marina is part of the Detroit River

International Wildlife Refuge—a designated

Audubon Society Important Bird Area that’s perfect for spotting feathered friends. The Marshlands Museum and Nature Center also makes it a

must-stop for wildlife.

2) William G. Milliken State Park and Harbor William G. Milliken State Park and Harbor is a participant in Michigan’s landmark Clean Marina program, which improves Michigan’s waterways by phasing out practices that damage aquatic environments. Recent revitalization includes a wet-

land area, new trails and a picturesque river walk.

3) Metro Beach Metropark Marina

Can’t get enough water even on land? A swimming pool with two water slides, a water park and a

1,000-foot-long picturesque beach on Lake St. Clair

elevate Metro Beach Metropark Marina. The marina hosts concerts each summer, and its fishing piers, walking paths, nature center and golf course are

7) Lime Island State Harbor

10) Grand Haven Municipal Marina

sure to please.

Are you a history buff? Check out Lime Island

If you’re in search of the good life, you’ve found the

State Harbor. Lime Island contains historic sites

right place. Grand Haven has been ranked the “#1

4) Algonac Harbour Club

from its years as a summer campsite of Native

happiest city in the U.S.” by Gallup for the last five

One of the largest deep-water marinas in the Great

Americans, including a unique limekiln. Today,

years and is a favorite of power boaters and sailors.

Lakes, the Algonac Harbour Club provides high-end

the recreation area is a nearly 1,000-acre wood-

In addition to two historic lighthouses, museums

amenities. Meticulously maintained bathhouses,

land on the banks of the St. Marys River. If you’re

and restaurants, public transit to various attrac-

basketball courts, horseshoes, beach volleyball and

eagle-eyed you might even spot one of the region’s

tions is less than $2.

a spa make it a waterside getaway.

black bears or moose.

5) Rogers City Marina

8) Harbor Springs Municipal Marina

This luxury marina in Frankfort has all the

If international cruises are on your agenda, Rogers

Lake Michigan has gorgeous views, and what

trimmings for those looking to fully absorb the

City Marina is a U.S. Customs Port of Entry as well

better place to enjoy them than the deepest

yachting lifestyle. Nearby amenities include a

as a gateway to the North Channel. Walking

anchorage in the northern Great Lakes. Harbor

resort, spa, lending library of children’s books,

distance from a full-service movie theater, two

Spring Municipal Marina is within walking distance

a boathouse and Weber® grills. Want to stay forever?

museums and several eateries, there’s no shortage

of ample dining and shopping.

Premium condos are right on site, though the

11) The Marina at Harbor Lights

of entertainment nearby.

marina is equally welcoming to day-trippers.

9) West Basin Marina 6) Hessel Marina

Located only one block from the public beach at

12) Copper Harbor State Dock

If island exploring is your thing, Hessel Marina is

Tiscornia Park, West Basin Marina provides a

Located at the north end of Keweenaw Peninsula,

located at the west entrance of the Les Cheneaux

cool spot for beachcombers and yachties. Close

Copper Harbor State Harbor is a stone’s throw from

Islands. This group of 36 islands and their well-

proximity to Betsie River State Game Refuge also

shopping and local dining. The historic Copper

protected channels near Sault Ste. Marie boast

invites hiking, canoeing and catching a glimpse of

Harbor Lighthouse complex features a restored

picturesque scenery with dining and shopping

the varied wildlife.

1848 lightkeeper’s dwelling, an 1866 lighthouse, a

close by.

1933 steel light tower and an interpretive trail.

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Chain Reaction Michigan’s chains of inland lakes inspire adventure after adventure.

Story by Elaine Short

n Michigan’s northern Antrim County, Six Mile Lake connects to the Intermediate River. From there, the Intermediate flows into Lake Bellaire, which in turn flows into the Grass River. The Grass River contributes to Clam Lake. From Clam Lake, Clam River flows into Torch Lake. Torch Lake becomes Torch River, flowing into Lake Skegemog and then into Elk Lake, which leads us to our final destination: the east arm of Grand Traverse Bay and an opening to vast Lake Michigan. Are you still with us? Let’s make this a tad simpler: this exchange of water at the top of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula is known as the Chain of Lakes, and it’s a key illustration of just how unique Michigan’s inland lake system is. The four Great Lakes that touch Michigan’s shore get a lot of attention, but with a dramatically lake-soaked geography, Michigan and its 11,000 inland lakes deserve a glance, too. Let’s dive in, shall we? In Michigan, you’re never farther than six miles from a lake. That leaves quite a few options for on-water activities. If it’s fishing you’re after, take your pick from walleye havens to ice fishing to family-friendly spots. At 12,800 acres, the Upper Peninsula’s westward

Lake Gogebic is Michigan’s largest inland lake and has established itself among fishing communities as host to one of the most plentiful natural walleye populations in the state. Just as walleye thrive in Lake Gogebic’s hospitable sand- and weed-filled accommodations, anglers’ wellbeing is enhanced by the area’s great lodging options. AJ’s Walleye Lodge on the North Shore of Lake Gogebic is just one of many fishing lodges in the area, and boasts fishing guide services, lake-view suites and outdoor grills. Nighttime views of the Northern Lights are complimentary. Memories are sweeter when shared, so if the gang isn’t all about hardcore angling, snorkeling and diving are also options in Michigan’s inland lakes. Because the Great Lakes are so large, waters are dark and cold, requiring that underwater explorers have experience before diving. But fear not, beginners. Lakes such as the Lower Peninsula’s Gull Lake, of Kalamazoo County, offer the unique experience of northern snorkeling in relatively shallow, light-filled water. The maximum depth of Gull Lake is 110 feet, providing a range of challenges for newcomers. Divers liken Gull Lake to swimming in an

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aquarium, and indeed, like an underwater playground, the lake hosts submerged and anchored artifacts. Placed specifically for divers, items to discover include a phone booth, motorcycle, car, ice shanty, swing set, railroad tracks and two boats. Those crystal clear waters of Michigan exist in larger form, too; take a straight shot north of Gull Lake, and stop when you see sparkling turquoise. Torch Lake, 19 miles long and Michigan’s longest inland lake, is a majestic body of freshwater located in the northwest of the Lower Peninsula. Torch Lake’s Caribbean-like sandbars have earned the title of National Geographic’s third most beautiful lake in the world and even an honorable mention in “All Summer Long,” a rock hit by Michigan native Kid Rock. Adventurists can get intimate underwater views simply by gazing from a kayak or canoe. Rent your choice of craft from Alden Outfitters in the village of Alden, then access the vibrant water via Alden’s public beach. Alden offers the benefit of proximity: Boutiques and bistros are nearby for a break from the sun and an easy bite, and its public beach faces westward, so you can head back after dinner to seal the day with a stunning sunset. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter which of Michigan’s inland lakes you gaze across. The sunset will be beautiful because it will be purely Michigan.

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Top 5 Trailering Trips

orget island hopping—get on the inland-lake circuit. From lakeside bites to special attractions, here are some great local trailering trips for unforgettable inland adventures.

1. Silver Lake

Experience one of Michigan’s quintessential wonders— the Dunes at Silver Lake. A remarkable sight with nearly 2,000 acres of rolling sand hills. You can even tour the dunes by vehicle on Mac Wood’s Dune Rides sevenmile route. 2. Lake Charlevoix

Lake Charlevoix’s Depot Beach welcomes you with the same sandy shores that once hosted an annual flooding of visitors in the late 1800s. The historic train depot remains to prove it. The lake’s clean water, excellent fishing and scenic shoreline are all great reasons to come visit.

3. Burt Lake

With over 300 modern campsites, Burt Lake’s pet-friendly shoreline ensures your whole gang enjoys a rustic retreat. Feeling adventurous? Burt Lake is a part of the Inland Waterway, so you can visit other waters, even Lake Michigan, by boat. 4 . Manistique Lake

Yoopers call it “Big Manistique Lake” to distinguish it from the rest of the Manistique Lake system, which tells you just how many hidden inlets there are to discover here. Explore nearby Seney National Wildlife Refuge, a haven for amphibians and birds. 5. Higgins Lake

One of the deepest inland lakes in the U.S., Higgins Lake in Roscommon county provides public boat launches, camping and two state parks. An island on the northwestern side of the lake provides a great sand bar and swimming area for families. - elaine short

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The Big Bite Indulging the mania for musky on Lake St. Clair.

Story by Randy Hess Photos by Bill Lindner photography studio and Spencer Berman

pex predators don’t earn their spot by being docile. Sure they can be calm—a benefit of being too large and strong for others to hunt—but just beneath that placid exterior is a capacity for sudden violence spurred by a voracious appetite. That describes perfectly the majestic musky, an exciting sportfish that thrills Michigan anglers through much of the state. “Catching a big musky is such a rush,” says Spencer Berman, an up-and-coming guide and pro angler who boats 60 or more 50-inch-plus muskies with clients each season on Lake St. Clair and the adjacent rivers. “When you slam that hook into something that doesn’t even move… even after we release it, my hands keep shaking and my heart keeps pounding. It’s the hardest thing out there to catch. It’s not about big numbers; it’s about the hunt. It’s about size and fight.” Muskies used to be called “the fish of 10,000 casts,” but Spencer says that simply doesn’t apply anymore. While the big fish remain elusive compared to limit-filling species like walleye, perch, lake trout and bass, today’s improved technology and Michigan’s aggressive stocking efforts have made catching 50-inch muskies a real possibility for anyone willing to spend several days with a knowledgeable pro. “Lake St. Clair is the best musky lake for total numbers in the world,” Spencer explains. “Some other lakes in Michigan don’t produce as many muskies, but they have some real monsters.” The current state record musky is a 59-inch 58-pound fish that was caught on Lake Bellaire up on Chain of Lakes in Antrim County. Shallow St. Clair has great breeding grounds producing huge numbers, while many of the state’s inland lakes are deeper and colder, which is more conducive to size than quantity.

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If musky seem too much of a challenge for your patience, Spencer’s guide business can put you on more bass or walleye than you can shake a rod at. Lake St. Clair is a top three bass lake year after year, according to Bass Fisherman magazine, and the spring walleye migration up the Detroit River from Lake Erie is an astounding natural phenomenon. But neither is Spencer’s true passion nor his business’ bread and butter. “I love putting clients on the big boys,” he says with a laugh. “It may be a cliché, but the truth is I’d rather see one of my clients catch one than do it myself. They are still the catch of a lifetime for most people, but thankfully a lot more common than they used to be. I mean, if it still took 10,000 casts to catch one, I’d be a heck of a bass fisherman.” You can book Spencer for a day of chasing musky, walleye or bass on Lake St. Clair and the adjacent rivers at spencersanglingadv.com. If you’d like to book a day fishing anywhere else in the state, there are hundreds of charter captains serving many ports who can get you out on the water and on fish. Find a comprehensive list at michigancharterboats.com. “The Michigan Charterboat Association is all about pure Michigan fishing,” says the association’s Denny Grinold. “Our website makes it incredibly easy to find a great captain anywhere in the state. Simply select a port and start your adventure.” Guide Spencer Berman with a monster musky on Lake St. Clair.

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Like what you’re reading? For only $32 you can join the Boaters’ Association of Michigan, support your favorite pastime and get a free subscription to ON THE LAKE. Visit onthelake.org to enroll in BAM and to learn more about great fishing resources.

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Gone Fishing

hether your angling has fallen by the wayside or you’re a fishing newbie, there are plenty of great fishing resources in the state of Michigan. Below are some practical tips and tricks to get you started on your next (or first!) angling adventure.

special Michigan asset. A fishing license can be easily purchased from the Department of Natural Resources or approved local vendors to extend the fun. Purchase online here: mdnr-elicense.com Fishing Reports

Free Fishing Weekends

Every year, the Department of Natural Resources gives anglers the chance to fish with Michigan Fishing License fees waived. It’s a great opportunity for those new to the sport or for infrequent anglers to dip their toes back into the water, so to speak. The 2015 Free Fishing Weekends are February 14-15 for winter fishermen and June 13-14 for those looking to capitalize on longer days of sunshine. All fishing regulations still apply. License Information

Hooked on a Free Fishing Weekend? When you purchase a license to fish year-round, you help preserve and protect the pike, bass and walleye that are such a

With your basics in hand, you need to find out where the fish are biting. Check out local fishing reports, which can illuminate particular areas where the fish are frisky. The Recreational Boating & Fishing Foundation has some great reports from different areas of Michigan to make finding a good spot near you a breeze. Visit: takemefishing.org/state/mi/fishing-reports/ Michigan’s 3,000 miles of coastline, 11,000 inland lakes and 154 species of game fish make it an unparalleled state to enjoy fishing. Whether you have a lucky day on the water or the fish get the better of you, enjoy the company of your family and friends in some of America’s most beautiful waters. — ALEXA M. POTEET

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A Taste of Michigan On Mackinac Island, the best memories are made of chocolate.

Story by Samantha Meltzer

s you walk down Mackinac Island’s main streets, a distinctive chocolaty aroma greets you from all directions. It’s fudge, Michigan’s signature delicacy, and Mackinac Island is home to some of the best fudge makers, who have been honing their craft for decades. Mackinac Island fudge is steeped in tradition, as is much else across the island. A short ferry ride from Mackinaw City or St. Ignace transports you back in time to a place where everything is a little simpler. Historical landmarks like the Grand Hotel reflect the magnificent architectural styles of the nineteenth century. Natural Northern Michigan beauty abounds throughout the Mackinac State Park. Motorized vehicles are not permitted, allowing you to immerse yourself in the island and its culture by foot, bicycle or horse. Yet a summer trip to Mackinac Island simply is not complete without a few slices of fudge tucked into your suitcase. If you follow your nose, you’re sure to end up on the doorstep of Ryba’s Fudge Shops, a Mackinac Island mainstay created by patriarch and “Fudge King”

Harry Ryba. With over four generations of fudge-making experience, the family-run empire that Ryba built continues to define the Mackinac Island experience by keeping things sweet. While Ryba’s Fudge is synonymous with Mackinac Island, Harry Ryba actually opened his first confection store in Detroit, says grandson Todd Callewaert, who currently owns Ryba’s Fudge Shops along with his family members. Harry Ryba hired the young Victor Callewaert, his future son-in-law, and together they moved the enterprise to Mackinac Island in 1960. They opened a storefront where they sold fudge, caramel corn and other sweets. “My grandfather decided to bring the fudgemaking process out from the back kitchens to the front windows so people walking by could see,” says Callewaert. The move captured the eyes—and stomachs—of curious tourists and drew them inside to sample Ryba’s fudge. The smooth, creamy fudge won over fans and earned Ryba’s Fudge Shops its legendary reputation. Ryba himself was crowned with the nickname “Fudge King.” Following Harry Ryba’s death in 1996 at age 88, his legacy

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passed on to Vic Callewaert and Harry’s grandchildren, who continue Harry’s recipes and traditions. With so many fudge stores across the island, developing a unique recipe and technique is crucial to keep hungry patrons coming back for more every year. Ideal temperature and humidity, especially in the summer months, helped the fudge industry on Mackinac Island bloom, explains Callewaert. “You have to be very precise in temperature and barometer,” Callewaert says. “Making small batches is integral so that the fudge cools evenly.” Ryba’s creates its unique fudge by making it in small batches, which shortens cook time and breaks down the fudge, yielding a creamier treat. Callewaert credits their decades of knowledge for the business’ current success. “We have fudge makers who have been here from 11 to 28 years. We really have the experience doing it,” he says. Fan favorite flavors include the classic chocolate no nut, chocolate pecan and turtle—a chocolate pecan fudge topped with buttery caramel and crunchy pecans. Their newest flavor, caramel sea salt, has been earning rave reviews and gaining popularity since the shop

introduced it this spring. With an extensive menu of fudges and other treats, there’s plenty of room for indulging. There’s certainly no shortage of Ryba’s fudge on Mackinac Island and throughout Michigan, with numerous stores across the region open from May 1 to November 1. Ryba’s also operates two stores in Chicago and a year-round online business, so fudge lovers can still enjoy a Mackinac summer no matter the season. In addition, Ryba’s fans can find the distinctive pink packages filled with rich fudge at the annual Detroit Boat Show. At the event, Ryba’s Fudge Shops runs a stand where diehards can get their fudge fix and newcomers can sample a taste of Mackinac. “We’ve been doing the Detroit Boat Show since the 1960s,” says Callewaert. “There are a lot of people who stop by just to get their fudge.” Yet despite its popularity across the state, Callewaert believes that Ryba’s will continue to concentrate on their island business. “Fudge is part of the destination,” he says. “Having it primarily on Mackinac Island makes it special.” Maybe that’s the sweetest secret of all.

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Frozen Behold the frosted beauty of Lake Superior’s magnificent ice caves.

Story by Alexa M. Poteet Photos by Aaron Peterson

he Upper Peninsula is a mystery to many unfamiliar with Michigan, but those in the know are acquainted with its rugged beauty, particularly in the wintertime. From Grand Island to River Rock Canyon, the jewels of snow-time scenery are spectacular ice caves that bloom in the depth of winter, creating otherworldly formations in hues of blue and white. The crystalline curtains and stalactites create some of the most unique sights in the world for winter exploration. But act quickly; these incredible beauties are a brief dream in the waking and sleeping of the seasons. Water action, freezing then thawing creates these ethereal structures. Whether inland or right on the coastline, the formations morph through the season, taking on a personality to suit each day. While any one shape can’t be guaranteed, one thing’s for sure: Exploring these works of art will make you feel like the subject of your own Michigan fairy tale. The Eben Ice Caves in Rock River Canyon, ice caves at Pictured Rocks, Michigan, and Grand Island Ice Caves in Hiawatha National Forest all provide exceptional locations for observing this frozen phenomenon. After your trip, warm up with a mug of hot cocoa at a nearby eatery. If you’re near the Eben Caves, a warm stack of pancakes at nearby hole-inthe-wall Snack Bar should go a long way towards replenishing your stores. If near Grand Island, be sure to check out the Grand Island East Channel Lighthouse for an extra dose of sightseeing. For the best trip, always ensure conditions are safe and employ either ice cleats or boots with nice rubber soles for the best traction. Remember that Lake Superior is not always frozen, so use caution before venturing out onto the ice. Most of all, remain aware of all the sights and sounds around you on your journey. After all, grace can sometimes come when you least expect it.

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Michigan is one of the few states in the U.S. that can boast such a beautiful wintertime show.

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Grand Island, Michigan, is a unique waterside location to absorb the icy scene.

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Explore these beautiful and temporary works of art.

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Nature proves a worthy architect in needle-like structures of ice and snow around Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Upper Peninsula.

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Take in the murmur of the forest while marveling at icy chandeliers.

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Race of a Lifetime An up-close look at the world’s oldest and longest freshwater sailing race—the Chicago-Mackinac.

Story and Photos by Terry W. Phipps

he Chicago air hangs thick on race day, matching our crew’s mood, thanks to predicted heavy thunderstorms. Over its 117-year history, the Chicago Yacht Club Race to Mackinac, affectionately know by many sailors simply as “The Mac,” has seen its share of severe weather, including knock downs and even a few deaths. Despite that history and the ominous weather, several thousand other sailors recheck rigging, sails and gear for the umpteenth time as they await excitedly the start of their groups. Each year, roughly 300 sailing yachts cross the Chicago Lighthouse starting line near Navy Pier, their spinnakers filling and flying like kites in a March sky, aiming for Mackinac Island, 333 miles north. It’s a sight to behold from land, but for crewmembers the race offers an entirely different perspective: It simultaneously lifts and exhausts the soul. Once underway, crew shifts prove relentless—three hours on, three off—and catching sleep becomes a fire drill nearly as tiring as the work above decks. Cots are

strapped to the hull, with ropes hiked up the sides to keep sailors snug and bunk-bound. Scramble below, strip foul weather gear, find a sleeping bag and claim a bunk. The first night out, before the exhaustion sets in, is sheer magic, with constant grinding and sail changes keeping the adrenaline flowing. The quiet, rhythmic water slaps against the hull and Milwaukee and Muskegon add an eerie glow from opposite shores to make waiting for daybreak easy. Lightning dancing on the horizon gives vague glimpses of nearby boats. Fortunately we out-sailed the chasing Iowa thunderstorms, and our earlier fears slipped away in our wake. At night, the fleet is not so much in sight as it is a comforting presence just out of view that you are constantly aware of. Dawn near Point Betsie reveals relative positions and shows how well the evening’s sail went. There have been strong performances, but no one has come close to Roy Disney’s 2002 monohull record of 23-and-a-half hours on Pyewacket in over a decade. Clearly we won’t change that.

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The first Chicago to Mackinac race was run in 1898 with five boats participating, two sloops and three schooners. It must have been a rugged sail because the second running didn’t happen until 1904, at which time it became an annual event (except for the four years of World War I, when many yachtsmen were in the European theater). There were several years when the finish line was shortened to Harbor Springs on Little Traverse Bay in an attempt to make the race safer, but Mackinac has always been considered the true destination, and the race’s safety record, outside of a few unfortunate anomalies, has been pretty good for its length and number of participants. Beyond Disney’s mono-hull record, the 1998 multi-hull record is an amazing 18 hours and 50 minutes aboard Steve Fossett’s America’s Cup winner, Stars and Stripes. Most boats take closer to two full days to complete the race, and the incredible variety of boat types means the race is broken into divisions, with a complex handicapping system that allows large and small boats to race against each other to determine the overall winner. There is no prize money, but the overall winners have their names etched onto the impressive trophy on

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Race day takes sailors by downtown Chicago.

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permanent display at the Chicago Yacht Club. (As an aside, the famous Port Huron-to-Mackinac race up the east coast of Michigan conflicted with the Chicago Yacht Club race for a number of years until the two organizers agreed on dates a week apart, allowing sailors to participate in both if they desired. You can read about the Port Huron-Mac race in an upcoming issue of ON THE LAKE.) Our sail the next day proves long and rough, but eventually the Mackinac Bridge pierces the horizon, a dramatic waypoint with its arms thrown in the air celebrating our arrival. The bridge is followed closely by the finish line between Round Island Light and Mackinac Island’s Biddle Point, where a cannon blasts a dramatic welcome. Once on the island, finding a slip becomes a game of musical chairs with rafting up the only solution. The yacht club’s shower line (three bucks a pop) grows exponentially as boats arrive, each welcomed by the boom of that cannon as they cross the finish line. It seems all 2,500 sailors—freshly cleaned and changed into dry clothes saved for today—try to jam into the Pink Pony saloon like a Tokyo subway. Some celebrate their induction into the Island Goat Society, reserved for sailors who’ve raced the Mac 25 times. The Mac isn’t only about the fastest boat, even if it is ostensibly a race. It isn’t just about the best sails or best tactician, though those surely count. Teamwork approaches the true meaning. And spectacle, and tradition. Mostly it’s about endurance. And perhaps next year adding one more race to your total in a quest to join the Island Goats.

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The Sunset Side The sinking sun adds a rosy glow to charming lakeside towns.

Story and Photos by Terry W. Phipps

he western or “sunset side” of Michigan provides ample appeal to residents and day-trippers. While the afternoons grow cooler eastward, here the golden hour illuminates small bookshops and family-run cafés. Fishermen haul in the day’s catch against a vibrant disk of sun. Time moves a little slower, allowing guests to fully savor Michigan’s many charms. These shoreline towns are perfect to reach by water. Simply enter your coordinates and cruise along the coast, hitting up one or a couple in a row. When you disembark, wile away an afternoon catching live music, admiring the local architecture or simply walking around these historic districts and their gas-lamp streets. In the early evening, pour yourself a glass of Michigan wine back onboard and enjoy the view from a new perspective, having experienced a day that’s uniquely “Michigan.” Here are some top towns to enjoy world-class sunsets and that unique Michigan charisma, whether for an afternoon or a lifetime.

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Petoskey N 45° 22' 24", W 84° 57' 19"

Petoskey mixes a northern town’s congeniality with a collage of flannel shirts and dock wear. Tucked in the folds of the hills, the town is situated on Little Traverse Bay, an indentation of Lake Michigan’s remote shoreline. There is little need for more than a casual stroll to get around. The Little Traverse Museum here houses interesting historical artifacts and a sizable collection on Ernest Hemmingway. Positioned strategically mid-city, the Perry Hotel, a favorite of Mr. Hemmingway’s—at the time only 75 cents a night—is a good place to spend a long weekend. Charlevoix N 45° 19' 5", W 85° 15' 30"

Three blocks of splendid resort shopping and the Beaver Island ferry embrace downtown Charlevoix, where the Rocking Horse Toy Company and the Round Lake Book Shop are favorites. Architect Earl Young’s “gnome homes” along Park Street provide ample charm and highlight materials native to Michigan. At sunset, a western pilgrimage along the river walkway leads to the South Pier Light, the collective spot for sunset-lit ref lection. The exclusive Belvedere Club is a good place to catch up with the locals.

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A harbor sunset in Charlevoix.

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Saugatuck N 42° 39' 18", W 86° 12' 7" Saugatuck is known as an art, B&B and shopping mecca. Stop in at artist collectives like Saugatuck Gallery, Gallery Milagros at Open Door Music, and Discovery Art Center. For outdoor dockside dining with entertainment, try the Butler or the Mermaid Bar and Grille. After a bite, check out Saugatuck’s Oval Beach, rated one of the 25 best shorelines in the world by Condé Nast’s Traveler. Saugatuck’s sister city, Douglas, is also worth a visit in the area.

Traverse City N 44° 45' 47", W 85° 37' 14" Any trip to Traverse City begins at the corner of Union and Grandview Parkway at the Convention & Visitor’s Bureau. Park in the lot across Union and stroll the Boardman River Walkway. From here, Front Street is a mere half block away. Favorite shops on that turnof-the-century corridor are Back Country Outfitters, Toy Harbor and Horizon Books, the quintessential spot where guests sip cappuccinos at book signings and music jams. There are plenty of great places to eat in Traverse City, which has become a foodie destination. Drop in to the Blue Tractor for a nibble then rent a bike at the City Bike Shop to cruise Old Town.

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Frankfort N 44° 38' 1", W 86° 14' 4"

Broad beaches line the shoreline in Frankfort where the North Pier Light beckons summer sunset walks. A simple town with a few shopping blocks, Frankfort is known for its marina, charter fishing and two spectacular lighthouses. With a population hovering around 1,200, this sleepy resort hamlet, unlike other coastal towns, is void of crowds. Enjoy comfort food at Dinghy’s Restaurant & Bar along with a beer and fishing talk. The Book Store offers beach reads to peruse on a calm afternoon. The nice winds here make for good sailboarding and kite flying. Leland N 45° 1' 22", W 85° 45' 36"

For 150 years this shaker-sided town along the Leland River has functioned as a fishing village with ample charm. Carlson’s Fisheries in town nets primarily whitefish, and its dockside market provides smoked fish and other vittles. The South Manitou Island ferry departs from Leland, and the lighthouse alone is worth the voyage. Grab a breakfast treat at Early Bird before your island adventure. Renowned Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is just a stone’s throw away.

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Visions in wood Van Dam Custom Boats creates watercraft that are works of art.

Story by Amy Wideman Photos courtesy of Van Dam Custom Boats

omething special is happening in Boyne City. Here on the southern shore of Lake Charlevoix, the skilled craftsmen at Van Dam Custom Boats are turning wood into floating artwork. Each personally commissioned vessel reflects a beauty and sophistication all its own—as founder Steve Van Dam says, “There’s nothing a customer can dream of that we can’t do”—yet each bears the signature of a singularly passionate team. Michiganders through and through, Steve was raised near Grand Rapids and his wife, Jean, in Harbor Springs. The couple spent a few years in Ontario while Steve apprenticed for master craftsman Vic Carpenter but soon headed back to the state and opened what was then known as Van Dam Wood Craft in 1976. Their children, Brie and Ben, grew up in an atmosphere of toolboxes and wood shavings and appreciation for the trade; after four years away from the shop studying naval architecture at the University of Michigan, Ben returned and is now stepping into a leadership role in the company. The objective has always been quality, not quantity. Fundamentally, it’s how the company has grown to attract clients from around the world. Van Dam averages two to four boats a year, which allows the team to pour thousands of hours into each one. It’s the antidote to the mass-market, one-size-fits-all approach, the cure for the common boat. And even though it can require upwards of two years to complete a project, the outcome is worth the wait. The customer comes away with an original masterpiece. “Historically, word of mouth has brought clients our way,” Steve explains. “People see our boats and can’t help but ask questions. Some customers really love the boatbuilding project as much as the actual boating, and then we have people who are avid, avid boaters and use them all the time. We do love seeing our work out there being used.” From the moment a potential customer approaches Van Dam, they’re given the white-glove treatment. “Our clients are assured that they will be getting individual attention and a superior

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Meticulous boat-building techniques result in floating works of art.

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boat. We inform and educate on how we build our boats and how we support and maintain each boat after it’s finished,” Steve says. After all, he adds, “A successful boat is one that the customer is happy with.” A visit to the Van Dam headquarters is a heady experience. Freshly sawn Western cedar, Honduran mahogany, Douglas fir and Sitka spruce release their woodsy perfumes; a polished hull glints in the sunlight filling the workshop’s front bay; machinery hums reassuringly in the background. It’s a family-friendly atmosphere, cultivated intentionally. The Van Dams have a four-year apprentice program for employees, designed to instill a deep understanding of the entire boatbuilding process. Devotion to detail is a given, whether it’s threading wires, welding stainless steel or fitting a plank. “We build boats like no other,” Steve muses. “That’s easy to say, but we do some truly unique things to a very high standard. Achieving a certain level of perfection is central to what we do.” Steve refuses to pick a favorite from among the Van Dam– produced fleet (“it’s like asking a parent to name their favorite child!”), but lights up when asked to describe any given boat. On the following pages, a few of the watercraft that exemplify the Van Dam approach.

Boomerang Now enjoying the Canadian waters, Boomerang was originally built in 1991 and is an exact replica of Baby Bootlegger, two-time winner of the Gold Cup Challenge. Like her inspiration, Boomerang was built with care and complete attention to detail. Having been built with cold-molded building techniques and materials, Boomerang is both solid and strong, with an easy-to-start, easy-tomaintain, modern 350-cubic-inch engine.

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Alpha Z Crafted in 1995 for the waters of Lake Tahoe, California, Alpha Z features a hand-carved dash made from a single piece of Honduras mahogany and a frameless windshield fabricated from 1/2-inch glass. Powered by a Keith Eickert 825-hp fuel-injected V-8 engine, it can reach speeds of 100 mph.

Geronimo With its elegant hull and unique elliptical stern, Geronimo reflects 1930s styling. It was built in 2000 and remains in its original home waters of Lake Charlevoix, Michigan. Designed for family, fun and entertaining, it features a generous galley and two cockpits that accommodate up to 10 people comfortably.

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Cyclone Built for Little Travers Bay in 2001, Cyclone now cruises the Gulf of Mexico just outside Houston, Texas. It resurrects a rare classic runabout style, the Limousine, popular in the 1920s and 1930s as the top of the line for major boatbuilders. Powered by twin MerCruiser V-8s, it offers an array of amenities and 6'2" of standing headroom thanks to judicious use of interior space.

Jacqueline Stylized to evoke the classic 1920s Gold Cup racers, Jacqueline was built for the waters of Lake George, New York. With a hand-built, fuel-injected V-8 reflective of the hot-rod genre, Jacqueline performs at speeds of more than 75 mph. It returns to Van Dam Custom Boats each winter for storage, where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s displayed in a heated showroom.

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Michigan’s Best Wineries Exploring the Mitten’s blooming viticulture.

Story and Photos by Terry W. Phipps

long Grand Traverse Bay’s 45th parallel, 34 wineries collectively form one of the greatest new wine regions in the United States since Napa Valley. With an otherwise harsh environment tempered by the lake’s effect, winemakers have found that the two peninsulas extending north from Traverse City host optimal microclimates for many different vine varieties. From this rolling, glaciated terrain, wineries have sprung forth over the last three decades, establishing a reputation far deeper than the vinifera roots embedded in this sandy soil. Before you embark on a Michigan wine-tasting adventure, it pays to refamiliarize yourself with the basics because knowing what to look for in a wine is half the fun. Upon inspection, a good wine should be clear without cloudiness in the glass. Whether red or white, it should have a complex bouquet from which no single aroma dominates for ultimate enjoyment. Tasting wine is subjective, refined only by experience, so get out and enjoy Michigan’s best. It’s best to hold the wine in the mouth for a few seconds while swishing it and drawing air in around the wine itself before swallowing. This aeration enhances the taste and permits the more acute identification of its specific characteristics. After swallowing, note any acids and tannins that

enhance your tasting experience. What is the sensation you are left with? Wine can linger like a memory, evoking thoughts and events past. The Leelanau Penninsula and Old Mission Penninsula are good places to start when discovering Michigan wine country. The following 10 wineries provide not only stunning lakeside scenery, but also a great basis for learning which varietals in the area are most to your taste. And let’s not forget famed Michigan cherries. Michigan is also home to many impressive fruit wines that open doors to wine enjoyment for oenophiles old and new. Leelanau Peninsula

Leelanau Cellars Boasting 30 labels, this Omena, Michigan, winery boasts fantastic bay views surrounded by cherry orchards. Try their 2008 Riesling for a special dessert treat. leelanaucellars.com Black Star Farms Complemented by a horse farm and a palatial bed and breakfast, Black Star Farms’ tasting room is a magnificent setting to sample wines. Their 2011 Arcturos Dry Riesling is a crowd favorite. blackstarfarms.com

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The rolling vineyards of Willow Winery.

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Leelanau Peninsula (cont.)

Ciccone Vineyard & Winery High atop a hill with great water views of West Grand Traverse Bay, Ciccone (the winery of Madonna’s family) serves up a fine variety of wines on 14 acres. They are currently the only vineyard to grow the Italian varietal Dolcetto in Michigan. cicconevineyard.com Shady Lane Cellars In Suttons Bay, Michigan, Shady Lane Cellars focuses on old-world production techniques and has 10,000 vines of Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir. Best bets include the 2012 sparkling Riesling or 2012 Blue Franc. shadylanecellars.com Verterra Winery Located in the heart of Leland one block from the harbor, Verterra’s tasting room is in a beautiful, historical bank building. The 2012 Pinot Grigio is a customer favorite. verterrawinery.com Willow Vineyard Willow Vineyard’s cozy, hillside setting overlooking the bay offers an intimate tasting experience. They began planting Chardonnay in 1992, so check out their latest bottling of the house specialty. willowvineyardwine.com Old Mission Peninsula

Chateau Chantal With stunning views of Grand Traverse Bay, Chateau Chantal is not only a picturesque winery but also a bed and breakfast. Their 2012 unoaked Chardonnay pairs perfectly with seafood dishes. chateauchantal.com Bowers Harbor Vineyard This small Traverse City winery overlooks Bowers Harbor and teems with ambiance. Thirty different wines and five ciders show off their impressive range. bowersharbor.com Chateau Grand Traverse Winery & Vineyards Overlooking Power Island, Chateau Grand has been producing wines in Michigan for more than 40 years. Grapes here are grown on an impressive 200 acres, of which 124 acres are estate grown. cgtwines.com Two Lads Sweeping views of East Grand Traverse Bay at Two Lads will delight your eyes and your palate. Try their unusual sparkling Pinot Grigio for a bright and complex wine. 2lwinery.com

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Leelenau Cellars in Omena, Michigan (above) and Willow Vineyard in Suttons Bay, Michigan (below).

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Boater’s Paradise Seventy years ago, the automotive industry grew a Detroit-area middle class, and along with it, one of the greatest boating areas in the country: Lake St. Clair’s Nautical Mile.

Story by Alexa M. Poteet Photos by brett carson and Scott Breithaupt

he first native tribes that lived near Lake St. Clair had different names for the 430 square-mile lake, but nearly all focused on its sweet, fresh water, calling it Otsiketa, sugar, or Kandequio, candy. Life for boaters on Lake St. Clair and its Nautical Mile has been no less sweet. Born from an abundance of cash that accompanied the boom of the American auto industry in the 1940s, the Nautical Mile refers to the one-mile strip of Jefferson Avenue between 9 Mile and 10 ½ Mile roads. With a prime location on the shore of the lake, a wide array of marinas popped up to accommodate the local boating scene that burgeoned as the success of Ford, General Motors and Chrysler grew. Soon after, several restaurants and shops opened accordingly to fill the bellies and shopping bags that filed in come summertime. Today, Nautical Mile boasts the largest concentration of boats in the Midwest, and this special area has continued to bloom into a boating paradise of enviable size and style. Mike LeFevre, a prominent restaurateur in the Nautical Mile region, says of the growth, “Coming off a bad downturn, I really notice that people are starting to buy boats again. There’s a jet ski

rental and a pontoon rental place that’s opening soon. So there’s been more development and exciting activities are coming soon.” LeFevre himself is also contributing to the growth. He owns Mike’s on the Water, a popular dockside restaurant, and says of his clientele, “The culture is middle class, blue-collar hard-working people. When they come to Nautical Mile to be entertained they are looking for a good value. Everyone wants to come down and see that water. So we have a really comfortable environment where they can enjoy it.” Indeed, Mike’s is not alone. There are several waterside dining choices that have sprung up to accommodate the increasing number of summer boaters. Part of the strip’s increased development and growth as a destination is due to the concerted efforts of local business owners and government officials who have sought reinvestment in the region. The Tax Increment Finance Authority (TIFA) captures the taxes of the business community in the area and directs them back to benefit Nautical Mile so the area’s marinas and boating resources can continue to grow.

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The geography of the lake goes a long way toward explaining how such a small area has become an on-water focal point for connecting a diverse group of boaters. Lying between Michigan and Ontario, the lake also connects with Lake Huron to the north via the St. Clair River and Lake Erie to the south by way of the Detroit River, meaning boaters from all over can congregate there. The major metro area of Detroit also lies a stone’s throw away on the Detroit River, bringing together an older boating set who’ve been cruising Nautical Mile for years, as well as young families who are building up the city again. Two boating families among them, the Batts and the Ellises, love taking their boats cruising in the Nautical Mile region. Ray Batt says, “When I moved to Michigan and realized how much freshwater was surrounding us, my wife and I talked about getting a cottage, but then I thought about the idea of getting a boat.” It seems the rest was history. Now, the friends cruise together all the time. Steve Ellis remarks, “I have to believe the freshwater Great Lakes and endless ports of call on the U.S. and Canadian sides make Michigan boating distinctive. We can be in Lake Erie in less than an hour, and Lake Huron in two-and-a-half hours. Lake St. Clair is really right at my doorstep, which makes cruising on it super special.” It seems many would agree. An increasing number of families such as these are embracing Lake St. Clair’s exceptional strip of boating heaven.

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The Wonder of Dunes Seemingly endless sand dunes stretch along many Michigan shores, providing unique wildlife habitats and delighting boaters and beach goers.

Story by Randy Hess Photos by Mike Calabro

here is an exacting science to sand and sand dunes—the specific size, makeup and shape of grains, the incredible variety of dune formations—but this ignores sand’s dreamier, more lyrical aspects. Sand flows almost like liquid, travels like few other solids and gathers in great swooping sculptures that are never finished. Sometimes it sings even. It is this more romantic side to sand that captures boater- and waterlover imaginations and draws people to Michigan shores in summer-long droves. As a whole, the Great Lakes Basin contains the largest freshwater-dune system in the world. Michigan alone has nearly 300,000 acres of sand dunes, most along the state’s western shores on lakes Michigan and Superior, where the prevailing winds, wave action and time push dunes into ever-shifting geologic marvels. On a summer day no different than any other, Jake, Justin and Ryan Koehler cruise to Warren Dunes in Southwestern Michigan from New Buffalo aboard the family’s 50-foot express yacht. Their father, Jay, sets the anchor five minutes north of Mount Randall, a towering

dune that has long drawn kids of all ages to hike to its summit and bound down in gravity-defying leaps. The boys lower the dinghy strapped to the yacht’s swim platform and abandon the mothership as quickly as they can unstrap the dinghy. “Where are you guys going?” their mom, Renee, calls after them. “Wherever the wind takes us!” Justin yells back, throwing the tiller to starboard to circle the yacht and head toward the sandy swoops and swales onshore. The huge piles of sand took a similar devil-may-care approach to arrive where the boys are headed. Eons of encroaching glaciers carried rock from the Canadian Shield south, ground it up and deposited it around the Midwest, much of it ending up on the bottom of the region’s sweet water seas. Relentless onshore wave action pushes and softens the grains until wind lifts and sorts it into ice cream–shaped mounds perfect for exploring. Great Lakes sand is largely silica-based, usually in the form of quartz, a very hard and chemically inert substance that resists weathering. A key ingredient in dune formation is the unique and diverse plant life that is able

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Sleeping Bear Dunes in Empire, Michigan.

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Big Sable Point Lighthouse in Ludington, Michigan.

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Silver Lake Dunes in Hart, Michigan.

to make a living there—commonly sand cherry, sweet pea and marram grass—which helps hold the sand in place and keeps it from continuing its eastward journey. The vagaries of the wind carve dunes into roughly a dozen different shapes, depending upon wind speed and consistency, as well as the regional topography, humidity and sand makeup. Along the Great Lakes the most common dune form is a linear dune that runs in successive waves parallel to the shoreline. These are the onshore, wind-pushed equivalent of the water-pushed sand ripples you can see on the lake bottom in clear water. A series of ridges rises away from the lake, gaining altitude, vegetation, wildlife and people, until the last dune ridge descends back down, often toward trapped lakes and marshes that wend along behind the dunes until they can find an exit back to the big lake. Those trapped waterways and the dunes that surround them house an incredible diversity of wildlife. Many animals, such as black bears and some larger cats, are not nearly as prevalent as they were back before humans took over the scene, but there is still a surprising variety of species in this habitat that appears few other places in nature. Conservation efforts have diminished

the dune habitat loss that ran rampant in the early part of the century, and many Michigan dunes are protected as part of the state and national park systems. Many of these parks include boardwalks that allow people to explore the most delicate environments without damaging the lightly rooted vegetation that holds the dune structure together. As for singing sand, every step across a Michigan dune can potentially produce a haunting high-pitched note. The cause isn’t completely understood, but it’s a phenomenon similar to rubbing a wet finger around the rim of a crystal wine glass, with the vibration ringing out somewhere between 60 and 450 Hz and occasionally as loud as 105 dBs. When the conditions are just so (thought to be the right amount of moisture between grains), Michigan’s dunes produce a particularly sweet tune because of the high silica content, well-rounded grains and relative similarity in grain size. That paean to the wonder of dunes is but one source of their resonance. Whether for the science, the wind-blown romance or the serenade, treat yourself to a Michigan dune visit this summer, and wander wherever the wind takes you.

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Michigan ’s Top Dunes There are numerous places to enjoy Michigan’s dunes, but several stand out as the best of the best. Sleeping Bear Dunes (Empire) Stretching 35 miles along Lake Michigan’s coast and around North and South Manitou Islands, this national park was voted “The Most Beautiful Place in America” by Good Morning America’s viewership. Be sure to check out the charming Homestead Resort in nearby Glen Arbor. Saugatuck Dunes (Saugatuck) This park runs along a secluded 2.5-mile strip of Lake Michigan with dunes that are over 200 feet tall. Nearby Saugatuck offers great restaurants, art galleries and other distractions when you’re ready to shake the sand out of your flip flops. Grand Sable Banks and Dunes (Munising) The dunes vegetation near Grand Marais on Lake Superior is particularly fragile, but boardwalks allow you to visit safely. Left by enormous glaciers, the Grand Sable Dunes are amongst the most astounding natural wonders in the state. Warren Dunes (Sawyer) Open year-round, Warren Dunes State Park has 221 modern & rustic campsites and three modern mini cabins available for rent. Mount Randall must be climbed and run back down. Silver Lake Sand Dunes (Hart) Near Mears and Pentwater, these massive dunes run from Lake Michigan around Silver Lake, and you can drive your own off-road vehicle around their trails then head to the nearby villages for great locally owned restaurants and fun shopping.

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A sweeping vista at Sleeping Bear Dunes.

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Michigan Made The land of the Great Lakes shapes an industry into one all its own.

rom fishing-rig manufacturers to docking equipment to marine-textile makers to legendary boat companies, a special kind of marine industry has been born and raised in the Great Lakes region, absorbing and putting forth the values of its land, its waters and its people. The history of Michigan and the Great Lakes is one of growth and hard work, and so Michigan marine manufacturers and services have been built around a core of innovation and earnest values. These companies are unique. These companies are Michigan made. Tiara Yachts: Built With Great Lakes Strength

“I would say Tiara is hand in hand with western Michigan culture, which is very value centric,” Tiara Yachts President Tom Slikkers says of his boat manufacturer’s integration with its Holland, Michigan, location. “So building a highquality product and being based in that area has always been a natural fit for us, and there’s never really been any question about staying there or remaining there.”

Tiara Yachts manufactures yachts that look and feel luxurious but that handle the water with a durability built from their test bed. Slikkers explains that while Michigan’s Great Lakes may seem like an easy pass for an open-water boat, Michigan’s waters put Tiara Yachts to the test so the product comes out with a resilience ocean-goers can appreciate. “Lake Michigan serves as a good filter for us to make sure we build the kind of product that we aspire to build.” Tiara Yachts has a long and storied lineage. The Slikkers family established SlickCraft in 1955. After selling it in 1969, founder Leon Slikkers—who began at Chris-Craft in 1946—started S2 Yachts about five years later. But he didn’t stop there. Tiara was introduced in Chicago in 1976, with Pursuit Boats following a short time after. The family’s passion for boating, and manufacturing boats, seems to know no bounds. Today, the Slikkers family takes its yachts up to the North Channel. They not only explore their favorite anchorages, Slikkers says, but also attempt “to experience

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The newÂ TiaraÂ 50 Flybridge hails from Holland, Michigan.

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our product through the eyes of our customers.” Tiara Yachts doesn’t have to travel far for inspiration and a set of standards that demand best-in-class craft. His hometown made that standard. “We love being a part of Michigan, and we love doing what we do.” Acme Mills Company: A Long History of Michigan Ingenuity

From steam engines to the boom in the domestic auto industry, Michigan’s long-standing love affair with transportation innovation is beautifully illustrated by a nearly century-old textile company. Acme Mills Company has been a textile supplier for pillars in Michigan transportation, both on the water and off. Founded in 1917, Acme Mills provided textiles to the Ford Motor Company’s Model T. As a contributor to the first affordable car, and the beginning of a transformation in common transportation, Acme Mills is a reminder of the state’s rich history in innovation, and it’s easily recognizable in the company’s mission statement: “In all endeavors that we embark upon, we believe in challenging conventional thinking.” The Acme Group companies develop, manufacture, customize and distribute textiles and fabrics for a wide range of industries and

applications. From aerospace to mass transit to marine fabrics, Acme Group continues to successfully provide textile solutions ahead of the transportation curve. It’s a habit you could call home-spun. Crest Marine LLC: Growing Upward From Michigan

Where we come from determines where we’re going, and Michigan roots are some of the strongest to grow from. Crest Marine proves this to be true. In 1957, Maurice Schell built and sold the very first Crest pontoon, and not long after, Crest pontoons were being sold at retail. In 2010, the family sold the Owosso, Michigan, brand and facilities, and the company became Crest Marine LLC. Yet, the pontoon manufacturer’s new owners have charged onward into the market by embracing the classic Michigan-made standards shaped by nearly 60 years of marine manufacturing. Key to those roots are Crest’s many innovations over that six decade span; the 1960s saw Crest introduce aluminum pontoons, and the 1970s ushered in a new meaning of “standard” with Bimini tops, built-in furniture as flotation devices and designs that serve fishermen’s needs, too. Exceptional growth and waves of ingenuity followed through the 2000s.

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Fun in the sun on the Sea Ray 260 Sundeck.

The company has since revamped its entire lineup, integrating the latest equipment and an aggressive design and development schedule with Crest’s classic models to create a new generation built from decades of experience. As far as roots go, this Michigan-grown manufacturer has the right stuff to continue blooming. Diversified Docks and Lifts: Quality Resources and Resourcefulness

Nearly 30 years ago, Diversified Docks and Lifts was founded by Jim Starr as Lakeshore Products. Supplying quality boat docks, boat lifts, PWC lifts and shoreline accessories to the Michigan area turned out to be a fruitful and rewarding business for Starr. Seeking a new challenge, Starr expanded his business to Camdem, Michigan, in 1989, launching Starr Industries and developing the Starr line of products. But with each new challenge one constant stayed: Michigan provided the vital lake-soaked backdrop to Starr’s endeavors, nurturing his blooming business, challenge after challenge. By 2001, Starr’s company had outgrown its facilities, and the team moved to its present home of Quincy, Michigan, where it today operates as Diversified Docks and Lifts. A premier supplier of boat docks, lifts, hoists, snowmobile trailers and caps, Starr’s company has continued to outgrow initial expectations. But one thing is clear from Diversified Docks and Lifts’ commitment to customer service—it will never outgrow Michigan.

Sea Ray Boats: An Innovator with Michigan Roots

Although Sea Ray makes its home in Knoxville, Tennessee, traces of its founding state are visible in the manufacturer’s success as a leading player in its industry. C. N. Ray founded the company in Detroit, Michigan, in 1959. Originally called Ray Industries, this small corporation has grown under the guidance of one of Michigan’s most steadfast values: innovative thinking. Sea Ray was one of the first boat builders to use fiberglass and composite materials in the construction of pleasure boats, and the company’s commitment to innovation in other departments—style, performance, interior design, manufacturing processes—has made Sea Ray a premier boat builder. Today the company is the world’s largest manufacturer of pleasure boats, producing more than 30 models ranging from 18 to 65 feet. Proof that the manufacturer takes after a one-of-a-kind place, Sea Ray is unmatched in its variety. Sea Ray may have gone far, but its values keep the family-friendly manufacturer bound to the state from which it hails. They say still waters run deep, but in a place like Michigan, the tradition of water runs even deeper, shaping home-grown marine manufacturers and services into a unique industry. Of course, to Michigan boaters, it’s nothing unusual. It’s simply the Michigan way. — Elaine short

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Restoring Sea Lion St. Clair Shores native Chip Miller breathes new life into a once-in-a-lifetime watercraft owned by William Clay Ford, Sr.

ince 1934, Miller Marina has been a fixture of the St. Clair Shores boating scene. Manager Chip Miller has been working in his grandfather’s business since he was a young boy and has seen some spectacular boats call his family’s marina home over the years. Yet none caught his eye quite like Sea Lion, William Clay Ford, Sr.’s 1979 Donzi Criterion. Number four of only 10 ever made, the boat was a prized possession of the auto scion and owner of the Detroit Lions. Stored in one of Miller Marina’s covered wells since it was new, Chip’s father took care of the boat, and Chip remembers bottom washing the boat as a kid. When Mr. Ford decided to sell the it a few years

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ago, Chip knew he was the right steward. He made an offer, and shortly after, the title was signed over to him by Mr. Ford himself. Since then, Chip has overseen a loving restoration of the speedboat, including new paint and an all-new sterndrive. He is just finishing the dash and instrumentation now. After all these years caring for the Sea Lion’s distinctive shades of silver and “Honolulu blue,” Chip has never gotten to ride in the spectacular boat. He’s excited for his maiden voyage from the local marina it’s always called home. — Alexa M. Poteet To see more of Sea Lion’s restoration, visit onthelake.org.

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The Boaters’ Association of Michigan (BAM) creates a voice for Michigan’s boaters to effectively express their views on legislative and regulatory issues that impact the boating lifestyle, as well as camaraderie with other water lovers. BAM members are boat owners, boating enthusiasts and those who simply want to support boating in Michigan. Member benefits include discounts at participating marine businesses, networking opportunities and a free subscription to ON THE LAKE.

We hope you enjoyED the magazine For only $32 you can join the Boaters’ Association of Michigan. Visit onthelake.org to enroll in BAM and read more great articles.

Please direct any questions or comments to editor@onthelake.org

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Thank You for your support This magazine is made possible by the generous sponsorship of the following Great Lakes enthusiasts

B & E Marine

Meridian Yachts

Barrett Boat Works

Michigan Department of Natural Resources

Boston Whaler Colony Marine Jefferson Beach Marina

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North Shore Marina pursuit boats

Marquis-Larson Group

Recreational Boating and Fishing Foundation

Mastercraft

Sea Ray Boats

Michigan boating industries association

Tiara Yachts Toledo Beach Marina

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