C&R Travel Media Highlights - 2019 by C&R PR

Travel Media Highlights

Contact: Pieter Ruig Office: 310.664.8844 Email: pieter@candrpr.com

Volks Lore

Dan Neil on the quietly legendary Jetta GLI—which turns 35 this year D9 FASHION

| FOOD | DESIGN | TRAVEL | GEAR

OFF DUTY THE WALL STREET JOURNAL.

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Airport, Sweet Airport New terminals you’ll want to spend time in D4

Saturday/Sunday, May 4 - 5, 2019 | D1

Love Your Gut

BY ALEKSANDRA CRAPANZANO

T’S RARE that doctors tell you to eat more of what you like—rarer still that they give you research to back up this fabulous prescription. “Our grandmothers told us, ‘You are what you eat,’ that we should eat a balanced diet, etc. But the science behind this idea was quite limited,” said Dr. David Artis, Michael Kors Professor of Im-

munology and director of the Roberts Institute for Inflammatory Bowel Disease and director of the Friedman Center for Nutrition and Inflammation at Weill Cornell Medicine. “What has happened in recent years is that 21st-century technologies are finally caught up and are educating us about how different diets have an impact on human health and our microbiota.” That last term refers to beneficial microorganisms that live in the gut, the skin and the upper respiratory system. “It’s worth re-

minding ourselves that the word microbiota didn’t exist 15 years ago,” Dr. Artis added. “This is truly a revolutionary concept in our understanding of human health and disease.” Though often used interchangeably with “microbiota,” the term “microbiome” describes the collective genetic material of microbial communities and how these microorganisms potentially function together in a particular environment—in Please turn to page D10

Inside

A PASSION FOR PITS Décor trends worth a comeback? Some designers vote for sunken living rooms D6

POLO? YOLO Learn the game of kings in Barbados—plus four more educating vacations D5

ROLL OUT THE WELCOME MAT Warm-weather dining calls for unstuffy placemats. These woven discs deliver D6

NEON SIGNS OF SPRING Fashion had some extremely bright ideas this season. Here’s how to wear them D3

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Good health begins there, after all. Fortunately, what our interior ecosystem needs to thrive is what springtime provides: a bounty of beautiful produce

OCTOBER 2019

B AY A R E A CALIFORNIA

by Jason Sheeler. Photographs by Soraya Matos Occupying the former Fort Baker army barracks in Marin County, at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge, Cavallo Point is a rare Bay Area hotel with uninterrupted views of San Francisco’s skyline. Opened in 2008, the sprawling resort offers two types of accommodations: historic and quaint— think 1901 officers’ quarters with porches and rocking chairs—or modern and sleek. The latter are incongruous but harmonious: floor-to-ceiling windows, heated floors, flat-screen TVs, khaki-painted walls. Go for a second-floor king suite, with a double-sided fireplace and a deck overlooking the bay. A historic option for families is the Frank House, a 1,200-square-foot residence with two bedrooms, a gas fireplace, and a glass-enclosed sunporch. Rooms from $470; cavallopoint.com. HOTEL DRISCO

FOUR SEASONS

A modern alternative to the city’s grand, historic hotels, the Four Seasons is a whisper-quiet chunk of swank right on Market Street. The property, in washes of beige, gray, cream, and cornflower, occupies 12 floors of a 42-story high-rise. The lobby functions as a living room, bar, and

bustling remote workspace. The gym is, with little doubt, the nicest Equinox in town—and all three floors of it are open to hotel guests. Though the hotel sits on one of Market Street’s busiest stretches, there is a private back entrance for guests, and the rooms are nearly soundproof. At 460 square feet, the standard rooms are some of the biggest you’ll find in the city, while many of the suites are upwards of 1,000 square feet, and the Premier suites come with a dedicated personal assistant. Rooms from $395; fourseasons.com. RITZ-CARLTON

Of all the neoclassical, columned hotels in San Francisco, the Ritz-Carlton in Nob Hill stands out. The particularly elegant white marble façade helps. Renovated in 2015, the 336-room property offers Ritzstandard opulence (Frette linens, Veuve Clicquot in the minibar) while also being a reliable, large, city hotel. (Room 919 has the best view of Alcatraz, the bay, and Coit Tower.) It’s also on the edge of Chinatown, which has some of the best dining in the city—book way ahead for George Chen’s 8 Tables (chinalivesf.com). You can also schedule a wine tasting at JCB by JeanCharles Boisset. The famed winemaker

With its long, strikingly modern fireplace, zebrawood bar, and massive murals by Andrew Morrow, the lobby of the St. Regis sets a refined, distinctly artful tone. Situated inside a downtown skyscraper that’s also home to the Museum of the African Diaspora and is next door to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), the hotel embodies both St. Regis’s signature luxury and San Francisco’s creativity and openness to experimentation. Among the 260 rooms is a 3,200-square-foot suite with spectacular views of the Bay Bridge. When boldface names are in town, this is where they tend to come, attracted by the butler service and the property’s 9,000-square-foot spa with a saltwater pool overlooking the SoMa neighborhood. Rooms from $950; st-regis.marriott.com.

THE BATTERY

Both a private club and boutique hotel, the Battery opened six years ago in the hip Jackson Square neighborhood, occupying a brick-and-timber warehouse that was once a candy factory. Designed in spirited style by Ken Fulk, the 14 hotel suites come with temporary club memberships, allowing guests to enjoy the garden, library, spa, gym, 24-seat wine cellar, bars, Living Room restaurant, and meeting spaces where Bay Area CEOs and creatives gather for lectures and laptopping. Rooms are highly sought-after, with the 620-square-foot Balcony suite

FAIRMONT

Dorothy Draper’s vision of a majestic Venetian palace, the beloved Fairmont survived the 1906 earthquake and the 1980s TV series Hotel, starring James Brolin. Perched at the top of Nob Hill, the Fairmont earns its grande dame status. From the Tonga Room tiki bar, complete with thunder and lightning effects (order a Scorpion Bowl), to the palm trees on the rooftop (order up lunch),

PALACE HOTEL

There have been two Palace Hotels— both in the same spot. The first, opened in 1875, was then the largest hotel in the world. After the 1906 earthquake, the Palace rose again, entirely rebuilt. In 2015, the property underwent a multimilliondollar renovation, including an update of all 552 rooms. (The suites are laid out like apartments, including—in the case of the Presidential and Vice Presidential categories—dining rooms.) Located in the Financial District, the hotel is close to Union Square shopping, Mission Street eating, Embarcadero sightseeing, and SFMOMA museum-going. Not to miss: Maxfield Parrish’s Pied Piper mural, which decorates the hotel bar of the same name and is considered a San Francisco landmark. Rooms from $590; sfpalace.com.

The Cavallo Point resort looks out at the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline across the bay.

High up on one of the steep hills in tony Pacific Heights, the Hotel Drisco occupies

an intimate Edwardian building that could easily be mistaken for luxury apartments (it once was) or one of the consulates that dot the neighborhood. The property, built in 1903 and completely renovated in 2017, offers 32 rooms and 16 suites (book one on the fourth floor, the north side), complimentary bikes for a roll down the hill to the Marina or the Presidio, and an apiary on the roof for honey with afternoon tea. There are also evening wine tastings, featuring bottles from Napa and Sonoma and cheeses from the Cypress Grove creamery in Humboldt County. Rooms from $399; hoteldrisco.com.

ST. REGIS

(room 14) being the one to aim for. There’s also a 6,000-square-foot penthouse with a wraparound terrace outfitted with an infinity hot tub and a Viking grill. Rooms from $1,195; thebatterysf.com.

D E PA R T U R E S

CAVALLO POINT

the bustling hotel marries opulence and whimsy, with a dash of Art Deco swagger. It’s also the only place where all three of the city’s cable-car lines meet. Book a room in the Tower, which has the best views and five premier suites, including one named for Tony Bennett, who first performed “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” in this hotel. Rooms from $260; fairmont.com.

CALIFORNIA

San Francisco’s top hotels, from old favorites to new classics.

One of the 14 hotel suites at the Battery. Right: The Battery’s colorful Musto Bar.

offers curated flights inside a new lounge stocked with coffee-table books on wine. Rooms from $750; ritzcarlton.com.

Staying Power A guide to

B AY A R E A

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The Palace Hotel’s majestic Garden Court.

WOMEN IN TECH Interviews with SAP’s Judith Michelle Williams Cloudflare’s Michelle Zatlyn Chairish’s Anna Brockway January.ai’ s Noosheen Hashemi and more…

ofSummer I

GENTRY

HEALTH Groundbreaking Science

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HOME

Silicon Valley Dream Homes 9 WWW.G

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THE CURRENT TALK

Laidback Luxury in the Lowcountry Gentry’s Amalia McGibbon explores one of South Carolina’s gems—Palmetto Bluff.

ver the course of three days at Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina, I went for what felt like a hundred bike rides. Every chance I got, I’d hop on my rented cruiser and head out in some new direction. Not because I needed to burn off the calories from 50 | GENTRY | JULY 2019

a weekend of over-indulging (more on that in a moment), but because there’s perhaps nowhere more pleasant to ride a bicycle than the velvet-paved paths of this property. With its stately homes, flickering gas lamps, and oak trees dripping with Spanish moss, Palmetto Bluff feels like a model village come to life. Once home to Richard T. Wilson, a New York financier and brother-in-law of Cornelius Vanderbilt, Palmetto Bluff spans more than 20,000 acres of pristine coastal marshland. (That’s one-and-a-half times the size of Manhattan!) Much of the land is protected by the Palmetto Bluff Conservancy, which monitors wildlife populations, reviews development plans, and seeks to educate residents on their surroundings. All of which might explain how a community that manages to squeeze in private residences, vacation rentals, and the 5-star Montage Palmetto Bluff resort can still feel so quiet

THE CURRENT TALK

and untouched. Well, except for one boisterous weekend each November, when Palmetto Bluff turns the volume way up at its annual Music to Your Mouth festival. It’s a grand affair, for sure—last year featured 18 events, 33 chefs, and 37 vintners and brewers—but one that lets you leave your white gloves at home. Dressing for an event means pulling on a fleece and knowing that it’ll smell like wood smoke by the end of the night (a plus in my book). My festival experience began with the traditional “Big Carol’s Big Dinner.” Named after one of the earliest cooks on the property, it’s an al fresco celebration with fancy food trucks, twinkle lights, and live music. I stayed out late before hitting the hay, and a mere 10 hours later I was on my way — via bicycle, of course — to a Culinary Salon on American Chardonnay. There, James Beard Award-winning writers Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay chatted with Master Sommelier Larry Stone and grape-grower extraordinaire Lee Hudson about the differences between “old world” and “new world” producers, and how to distinguish between 52 | GENTRY | JULY 2019

the two when tasting (which we luckily got to do quite a bit of). But I was most excited to experience the event so winningly captured in my itinerary as “the big show, the icing on the cake, the cherry on top.” That would be the Culinary Festival, a four-hour celebration of local ingredients, cooked by some of the best chefs south of the Mason-Dixon line. A few of my favorites included: a smoked tater tot with creme fresh and Cajun caviar, courtesy of Jamie Lynch, executive chef of 5Church in Charleston; a plate of braised rabbit raviolis from Bryce Knott, executive chef of aLure restaurant in Savannah; and BBQ Duck Confit Bao Bun with a sweet potato dipping sauce from Steven Greene, executive chef at The Umstead Hotel in Cary, North Carolina. And then—as if that wasn’t decadent enough—we closed the carnivorous weekend with the “Kiss the Pig” event, a traditional oyster roast and barbeque set along the banks of the May River. Music to Your Mouth is just one of many parties that dot the events calendar at Palmetto Bluff, which can feel a bit like a summer camp for adults. There’s also a Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course, a shooting club, equestrian facilities, clay tennis courts, bocce ball, fly-fishing, and guided kayak trips (apparently sunrise is your best bet for a bottlenose dolphin sighting!). You can—and should—sign up for a cemetery tour with the on-site archeologist Dr. Mary Socci, or you might book a river cruise aboard The Grace, a restored 1913 60-foot community yacht (one of the last remaining pre-World War I gas-powered yachts). There’s also the very respectable option of doing 54 | GENTRY | JULY 2019

THE CURRENT TALK

absolutely nothing. In fact, the folks at Palmetto Bluff have coined a term for just sitting on your porch, drink in hand: they call it “porching,” and I’m pleased to announce that I have become very good at it. Granted, it’s easy when the porch in question is attached to one of the beautiful homes at Palmetto Bluff. These residences—with their symmetrical forms, triangular gables, and Greek Revival columns—are inspired by historic waterfront villages along the East Coast. They are romantic interpretations of towns like Savannah, Georgia, and Beaufort, South Carolina. They say you should never meet your heroes. Well, I consider it similarly risky to visit a destination for the first time that you’ve long romanticized. And the Lowcountry was one of those for me. I had an image in my head of what this corner of our country looked and felt like: biscuits and barbecue, verandas, and wild oaks. So, cheers—with a glass of unoaked Chardonnay —to Palmetto Bluff for making the reality even prettier than the postcard. —PALMETTO BLUFF IS LOCATED JUST 30 MINUTES FROM THE SAVANNAH AND HILTON HEAD ISLAND AIRPORTS. FOR MORE DETAILS, VISIT WWW.PALMETTOBLUFF. COM. TICKETS FOR THE 2019 MUSIC TO YOUR MOUTH FESTIVAL (NOVEMBER 20 – 24) CAN BE PURCHASED AT WWW.MUSICTOYOURMOUTH.COM.

56 | GENTRY | JULY 2019

Robb Report USA Circulation: 102,545 Ad Value: $69,924 April 2019

C Weddings USA Circ: 154,209 Ad Value: $13,845 Fall 2019

APRIL/MAY 2019 » LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM

THE

ULTIMATE RACE

MEN’S SPECIAL SECTION BEYOND THE BLUES

DENIM STYLES IN HUES FROM LIGHT TO DARK

DOWN TO THE DETAILS

MEN’S ACCESSORIES FROM BELTS TO BRACELETS AND SHOES

BORN TO RIDE

THREE LOCAL GUYS AND THEIR MOTORCYCLES

TRIATHLETES FACE A TRUE TEST OF ENDURANCE

• 10 QUESTIONS WITH MARK CUBAN • BITE INTO THESE JUICY BURGERS • AN IDEAL GETAWAY IN CARLSBAD

From an award-winning golf course to theme parks, scenic flower fields, stunning beaches and more, this San Diego city is perfect for a quick getaway. BY MEGAN SHELHAMER

Inset: Park Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa; background: Carlsbad is an ideal place for a weekend trip in northern San Diego County.

nown by locals as “The Village by the Sea,” Carlsbad is a unique coastal destination in north San Diego County. Located just 40 minutes north of downtown, Carlsbad is close enough to experience all that San Diego has to offer while avoiding the noise and congestion of the city. With award-winning golf courses, local breweries, premium outlets and nearby theme parks, Carlsbad is the perfect weekend destination to experience many of Southern California’s most popular attractions. The ideal home away from home is Park Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa. This Forbes Five-Star resort boasts five on-site restaurants, a top-rated golf course and a luxurious full-service spa. Providing an opportunity for a romantic getaway or to simply relax and indulge or create fun memories for the whole family, the resort appeals to solo travelers, couples and families alike.

LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE

Left: the 18-hole championship course designed by legendary golfer Arnold Palmer, at Park Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa; right: the resort’s family pool—one of two options for cooling off on the property

DAY 1

MORNING Get your vacation started with a boozy breakfast at the new Toast Gastrobrunch. Toast offers a trendy menu featuring loaded toasts, classics with a twist (think red velvet pancakes) and a large selection of handcrafted cocktails like the Paradise Pear mimosa to get your morning off to the right start. Each meal is not only delicious, but worthy of its own photo shoot. Since opening this winter, Toast has become a popular spot among locals, so make sure to join the waitlist ahead of time. AFTERNOON During your stay, be sure to take advantage of the countless resources available to you, including a variety of activities on and off the resort grounds. If you’re a golfer, you can’t miss the opportunity to play a round at the resort’s on-site, 18-hole championship course. Designed by legendary golfer Arnold Palmer, the course is home to

the LPGA Kia Classic tournament hosted each March. Lush, rolling hills, large trees and scenic water features can be found at this intuitively crafted course consistently rated among the top ones in San Diego and all of California, complete with driving range and putting greens. If golf isn’t your thing, the resort also has six state-of-the-art tennis courts available to rent by the hour (rackets and balls included) and an instruction program lead by tennis pro Steve Halverson, who is able to coach in four different languages and makes the learning process fun and easy for any age. And, for those who aren’t into sports, visit The Flower Fields, which are an incredible sight to behold—and only 10 minutes north of the resort. An endless expanse of vibrant ranunculus flowers carefully planted into distinct color-coordinated rows, it seems that no flower is out of place. Peak blooming season is typically mid-March to midApril, but can vary depending on the season’s

LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM

weather conditions. The fields open March 1 and remain open through May 12, providing the perfect Mother’s Day activity. Take home fresh cut flowers, bulbs to plant at home, locally harvested strawberries and a souvenir from the unique gift shop at Armstrong Garden Center. After exhausting your activity options, head back to the resort to relax and refresh at one of two sparkling pools; lounge in a private cabana at the peaceful adults-only pool or bring the kids FOOD PHOTO: WALTER WILSON; BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY OF THE FLOWER FIELDS; BOTTOM RIGHT: SHERRY V SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Left: A vibrant view at The Flower Fields; right: South Carlsbad State Beach

Toast Gastrobrunch offers classic dishes with a twist.

KIDS CAMP

If you’re traveling with children, Park Hyatt Aviara Resort offers a Camp Hyatt Aviara Kids Academy that is sure to entertain your little ones so you can enjoy some rest and relaxation or a date night. The resort’s young guests will enjoy hiking the Batiquitos Lagoon Trail, doing arts and crafts as well as other seasonal activities. Babysitting services are also available.

limited-time Lego Movie 2 Experience where guests can tour a set constructed to look like part of the Lego movie. Other options for the family are a slightly farther drive: the famous San Diego Zoo or Seaworld San Diego, each about 40 minutes away. While adults may also enjoy touring Legoland’s exhibits, the zoo or SeaWorld, they might instead opt for a brewery tour of some of Carlsbad’s local breweries or a shopping spree at the Carlsbad Premium Outlets nearby.

Clockwise from top: Legoland California Resort’s 20th anniversary; San Diego Zoo; SeaWorld San Diego

EVENING To bring your day full circle, take the complimentary shuttle back down to the golf course for a

Many breweries serving a wide variety of beer can be visited in the Carlsbad area.

LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM

satisfying and savory meal at the clubhouse restaurant, Argyle Steakhouse. Indulge in fine cuts of California prime beef, Japanese Wagyu or fresh seafood with a scenic view overlooking the 18th green. Select pairings from an impressive wine list, a variety of comfort food side dishes such as potato tots, lobster mac and cheese and twicebaked potatoes, plus tempting desserts.

DAY 2

MORNING If you have kids, Legoland California Resort is the ultimate fun-filled activity for the whole family and just 15 minutes away. The park includes awe-inspiring miniature replicas of cities made entirely of legos (such as the Las Vegas Strip), more than 50 rides and interactive attractions—up from 12 rides when the park opened in 1999—plus live shows and a water park. As Legoland celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, 2019 is set to be filled with exciting perks passed down to attendees. Kids turning 12 this year (and younger kids) get free admission on their birthdays through the end of December, and the park recently debuted its

EVENING For dinner, head to the resort’s elegant Italian restaurant, Vivace. Fresh pasta is handmade daily and the tasting menu offers a bespoke approach: Choose your number of courses—portion sizes decrease as you select additional courses, sampling many different menu options without filling up on just one. And a sunset meal on the outdoor terrace offers a backdrop of the beautiful Pacific Ocean in the distance. Conclude the evening with live music and a nightcap at Park Lounge before retiring to your cozy room. If you’re looking for something more casual, Carlsbad Village is a lively downtown area along the coastline with many restaurants, quaint shops and charming cafes. Check out Oak & Elixir, a wine bar and eatery, for shareable small plates, flatbreads and wine flights. The friendly staff is happy to guide you through a list of about 30 wines by the glass to find your perfect pairing. LBM

TOP: COURTESY OF LEGOLAND CALIFORNIA RESORT; MIDDLE, FROM LEFT: TINSELTOWN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; LMSPENCER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF KARL STRAUSS BREWING CO.

along to the family-friendly pool, complete with a water playground and underwater lighting. Grab lunch or light bites at the resort’s poolside Ocean Pool Bar & Grill and indulge in some refreshing cocktails before you prepare for the evening.

AFTERNOON Spend the rest of the day resetting at the luxurious Aviara Spa. Make a point to self-indulge and choose from a full selection of lavish spa services. Set aside some time following your treatment to soak in the whirlpool, refresh in the sauna or steam room and lounge with an herbal tea in the tranquil solarium. If attending with your significant other, inquire about the intimate couple’s suite with private showers and a semiprivate pool.

SiliconValley JULIAN GUTHRIE’S Alpha Girls Train the Alpha Dogs of the Valley

THE SUMMER TRAVEL ISSUE

@ S I L I C O N VA L L E Y M A G M O D E R N L U X U R Y. C O M

Engaging Experiences From Burma to Bodega Bay

SUN-SOAKED STYLE Men’s Fashion Brightens Up

PLUS

The Goldman Prize Turns 30, Muralist JR’s Big SFMOMA Show & More!

T R AV E L & R E C R E A T I O N getaway

UNWINDING IN WINE COUNTRY Newly plush oases invite exploration from Napa Valley to the Sonoma coast. By Jeanne Cooper

almy weather and blooming grapevines in wine country herald spring, the perfect time to bask at one of the region’s several newly—and stylishly—renovated inns. Carneros Resort and Spa At southern Napa’s upscale semiresidential enclave (also known as a discreet getaway for Hollywood celebrities), the 94 cottages and suites now boast a fresh farm-chic look, thanks to renovations by Oakland’s Nina Chiappa Interiors. New rustic-finished wood furniture, blackened iron lighting and gray-toned wood flooring are brightened by botanicalpatterned fabric tapestry and gold, green, blue and teal accents to the pale cream palette. In most cottages, floor-to-ceiling glass bifold doors open onto private terraces with gas fire pits, dining tables and chaise lounges. At night, guests can now request miniprojectors or telescopes for backyard

movie-watching or stargazing. For sampling nearby viticulture, Edward Costa, the resort’s managing director, recommends Artesa Vineyards & Winery and Domaine Carneros. The former “houses beautiful art and is known for its pinot noir-dedicated vineyard and small-batch wines,” he says, while the latter “is a wonderful place for visitors who enjoy sparkling wine.” Book the Wine and Away package (two nights from $18,900) and enjoy round-trip private jet transport to Napa, plus lodgings in one of the resort’s private homes and special spa and dining experiences. Cottages from $550 weeknight, suites from $900, residences from $1,260, 4048 Sonoma Highway, 707.299.4900, carnerosresort.com Olea Hotel Sia and Ashish Patel, former tech marketers who met at Salesforce, didn’t plan the recently completed 10-month renovation of Olea Hotel,

88 M O D E R N L U X U R Y S I L I C O N VA L L E Y A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 9

VINEYARD PHOTO COURTESY OF SONOMA COUNTY TOURISM; SPA PHOTO COURTESY OF CARNEROS RESORT AND SPA

Sonoma Valley’s brightgreen vineyards beckon in springtime and promise chic sips in fall.

M O D E R N L U X U R Y. C O M

The redesigned spa entrance at Carneros Resort and Spa is just one of many new features.

OLEA HOTEL BEDROOM PHOTO BY REBECCA CHOTKOWSKI; FIRE PIT AND FIREPLACE PHOTOS BY PAUL DYER

executive chef Khambay Porterkhamsy’s lavish seasonal breakfast menu. Once fortified, guests should seek out nearby Benziger Family Winery to learn about biodynamic farming “on a cool tractor-tour,” Sia says, or head to B. Wise Vineyards for a private tour of its estate cave— “amazing wines and beautiful views,” she says. King rooms from $309, 5131 Warm Springs Road, 707.996.5131, oleahotel.com

Clockwise from top left: Designer Natasha Stocker’s redesign of the Olea Hotel features midcentury-modern touches and her original artwork; Drakes Fireside Lounge at Bodega Bay Lodge on the Sonoma County coast now offers three fire pits overlooking the bay, as well as new lunchtime service; Bodega Bay Lodge’s renovated Ocean Club Whirlpool Suites include granite fireplaces and dazzling views through glass doors.

their 15-room boutique inn in Sonoma Valley’s Glen Ellen. After buying it in 2011, the couple spent 18 months gutting and remodeling the hillside hotel, built in 1900, and the transformation earned numerous accolades. But the wildfires of October 2017 forced their hand after claiming a fourth of the property. As part of the rebuild, Natasha Stocker of Santa Rosa’s Inspired Spaces helped redesign the interiors. The latest incarnation is “sort of midcentury-modern luxe, but really more luxurious and comfortable, with natural tones that kind of incorporate our surroundings, the olive trees and the oak trees,” says Sia. Key updates include cognac leather sofas, metallic grass-cloth wallcoverings and gleaming midcentury light fixtures. Stocker’s original artwork, plus cheery pillows and side chairs, add splashes of color to the neutral palette, with nailhung air plants and metallic leather macrame wall hangings adding homey appeal. One luxurious element remains the same:

Bodega Bay Lodge Sonoma County’s rugged coastline may not immediately come to mind when considering a wine country getaway, but its sunny hillsides swaddled in fog provide a haven for wineries, as well as an exceptionally scenic setting for hiking and outdoor pursuits. Within a 30-minute drive of Bodega Bay Lodge are a number of family-owned wineries specializing in pinot noir, chardonnay and sparkling wine. Among the lodge staff’s favorite Russian River Valley recommendations are Hartford Family Winery in Forestville and Fog Crest Vineyard in Sebastopol. Sonoma County accounts for 100 percent of the wine list at the lodge’s newly renovated Drakes Fireside Lounge, which added three large ocean-view fire pits and a bar made from a 300-year-old elm. Eight Sonoma beers on draft also complement the lunch and dinner bar menu by new executive chef Kristian Markland, who further emphasizes locally sourced produce and proteins in his adjacent Drakes Sonoma Coast restaurant. The spacious Ocean Club Whirlpool Suites, which debuted in 2017, offers the most indulgence of the lodge’s 265 rooms and suites, spread across 7 acres. Admire a panoramic view of the sunset over the Pacific by the fireplace, or soak in the whirlpool tub large enough for two. Ocean Club Whirlpool Suites from $359, 103 Coast Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707.875.3525, bodegabaylodge.com

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M O D E R N L U X U R Y. C O M

SUNDAY, APRIL 21, 2019

TRAVEL DIG IN TO HAWAII

Cuddle with cats on Lanai, eat at 20 places on Maui for $20 or less, sip a creative take on the mai tai in Honolulu, appreciate sacred native Hawaiian sites, ride and slide with your kids on Kauai — and find a cheap fare to get there — as you discover what’s new in Hawaii. L3-8

Photographs by

Mel Melcon Los Angeles Times

TREATS WITH characteristic island flavor include, from top, the Maui onion-enhanced Luna Burger at Cool Cat Cafe, hula dancers at the Old Lahaina Luau, and

won ton min with sweet pork at Zippy’s in Kahului, all on Maui. An updated list of 20 places to eat on the island includes a food truck and a chicken stand on the beach.

TRAVEL

The place to go in Southern

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2653 Manhattan Beach Blvd. Redondo Beach

Retro Wicker Dining Chairs & A-Grade Teak Artisan Table

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EAT YOUR WAY AROUND MAUI Dine where the kamaaina (locals) do and have enough left for a sunset cruise By Rosemary McClure

HAWAII

Oahu Kauai

Molokai

Maui is my happy place. Scenery, weather, aloha spirit — I love it all. The only wrinkle in the fabric of this beautiful picture is the cost of food. Dining out here can break the bank. But we have a solution: Eat where the locals eat. Maui has dozens of thrifty food options. You just have to know where to look. Nearly a decade ago, the Travel section created lists focusing on inexpensive eating places. We canvassed Hawaii to bring you a series of articles we called “20 for $20,” tasting our way across Maui, Kauai, Oahu and Hawaii Island in search of great meal deals at restaurants locals like best. You loved them, but things change in a decade.

Photographs by

Pacific Ocean

Detailed

Honolulu

Maui

Pacific Ocean 100 MILES

14 Napili

Hawaii

6 13 16 17 20 Kahului

12 Paia

Lahaina 1 3 4 9

10 Makawao

Pukalani 18

11 12 15 30

Kihei 2 6 12 Wailea 19

Maui

360

5 7 8 Hana 360

Kahoolawe 5 MILES

Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap Los Angeles Times

We’ve spent the last several months updating the lists for Kauai, Oahu and now Maui. With the help of local experts, we identified some new — and some old — faves and tried them, focusing on restaurants where locals dine that feature inexpensive and sometimes traditional Hawaiian fare. Six of our old favorites (Aloha Mixed Plate, Cafe O’Lei, CJ’s Deli, Sea House Restaurant, Sunrise Cafe and Paia Fish Market) are on the new Maui list. But there are newbies too, including food trucks. For the most part, the restaurants are clustered in Maui’s main tourist areas, from Lahaina and the suburbs of West Maui to Hana at the east end. In the midsection, restaurants are mainly in Kahului, home of the airport and major island businesses, popular Kihei and rustic Upcountry Maui.

Mel Melcon Los Angeles Times

SHOYU chicken, teriyaki beef and

BRAISED pork shank with braised

FISH tacos served with homemade

fresh fish, rice and macaroni salad.

red cabbage, bacon and caraway.

tortilla chips and mango salsa.

THE LUNA burger with avocado, bacon, jack cheese, sweet Maui onions.

1. Aloha Mixed Plate

2. Cafe O’Lei

3. CJ’s Deli & Diner

4. Cool Cat Cafe

Prices: $12-19 The seaside Aloha Mixed Plate, always a contender for our favorite cheap-butwonderful restaurant in Maui, is better than ever. The cafe closed for three months for renovations, reopening in December 2017. The paper plates gave way to ceramic ones, and new construction dressed up the property. The upper deck, for instance, now has a roof that retracts at night so you can see the stars. The mai tais ($8) are legendary, and customers love the plantation fare, including updated shoyu chicken ($12), kalbi ribs ($19) and mochiko chicken ($12). Reservations advised.

Prices: $14.95-$31.95 The owners of Cafe O’Lei want you to have a nice evening. That’s why they work hard to keep prices low at the Kihei restaurant. “We’re pretty proud that we can offer good prices and a fine experience,” said chief executive Dan Lang. The 262-seat dining room, in the Rainbow Mall by the beach, serves Pacific Rim cuisine. There are lots of wonderful things here: Try the outstanding pork shank with creamy potatoes and broccoli ($19.95) and shrimp papaya salad ($14.95). The menu includes a variety of dishes, including amazing French onion soup.

Insider tip: Arrive at sunset for a special treat: Not only will you see a spectacular show at sea, but you’ll also be able to hear the show next door at Old Lahaina Luau.

Insider tip: It’s all wonderful. Visit twice.

Prices: $9.95-$14 The resort hotels of Kaanapali, a master-planned complex in West Maui, have some terrific restaurants. But getting a meal at one of them for less than $15 is nearly impossible. Not so at CJ’s Deli & Diner, a strip-mall cafe in the Kaanapali Fairway Shops complex. You can choose from several thrifty dishes, including a BLT ($11) or a soup-and-sandwich combo ($11). CJ’s is adjacent to the hotels of Kaanapali — so close you could drop by for fish tacos ($14) or a classic Reuben with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and island dressing ($12). Take it to eat on your hotel lanai or on the beach.

Prices: $11.99-$18.99 Music, an awesome view and plenty of cool cats: Who could ask for more? The Cool Cat Cafe, winner of the Maui News award for best burger 15 years in a row, is an open-air restaurant and bar overlooking downtown Lahaina. It’s on the third floor of a city entertainment center, giving diners a bird’s-eye view of Banyan Court Park and bustling Front Street. Choose from more than a dozen burgers, plus sandwiches, salads and larger entrees. Our favorites were the Don Ho burger with pineapple and bacon ($12.49) and the Luna with avocado, bacon and sweet Maui onions ($13.99).

Info: Cafe O’ Lei, 2439 S. Kihei Road, Kihei; (808) 891-1368, cafeoleirestaurants.com

Insider tip: Been on a fishing trip? CJ’s will grill your catch for you.

Inside tip: Musicians play from 7-9:30 p.m. many days.

Info: CJ’s Deli & Diner, 2580 Kekaa Drive, No. 120, Kaanapali, Lahaina; (808) 6670968, cjsmaui.com

Info: Cool Cat Cafe, 658 Front St., Suite 160, Lahaina; (808) 667-0908, coolcatcafe.com

A HALF-CHICKEN, grilled and

Info: Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina; (808) 661-3322, alohamixedplate .com

SEARED fresh white fish, also avail-

ROASTED kabocha squash, straw-

POKE, at the low end of the menu, is

able in tacos, from this food truck.

berry salad with almonds and quinoa.

often served with tomatoes or onions.

served with Caesar salad.

5. Da Fish Shack

6. Fork & Salad

7. Hana Ranch Restaurant

8. Huli Huli Chicken

Prices: $10-$16 Visitors to Hana, the far-away paradise at the end of the famous 65-mile Road to Hana, have never had many choices for lunch. Now food trucks have appeared and broadened the playing field. Da Fish Shack, a creation of chef Brian Maser, is known for its fish tacos ($14), which usually feature ahi or white fish. Maser is an old hand at this; he has 35 years’ experience and has cooked in the Napa Valley and northwestern Italy. But he’s a Maui native and says he’s much happier cooking on his home island. Eat at a picnic table or take your tacos to a nearby beach.

Prices: $10.25-$12.75 Build your own or order one of Fork & Salad’s fresh-and-beautiful signature salads at this two-store Maui chain, where the theme is “Eat local, eat healthy.” There are classics, such as Caesar and Greek salads ($10.25), and interesting daily specials, such as roasted kabocha squash and strawberry salad with arugula, quinoa and roasted garlic ($10.25). Sandwich lovers can try hearty combos such as lemon-andthyme chicken ($11.50).

Prices: $11-$30 You’ve just driven 65 miles past waterfalls, beaches and jungle-like overgrowth on the winding, white-knuckle road to Hana. Celebrate with a stop at Hana Ranch Restaurant, which sits on a patio overlooking the Pacific. It’s a great place to decompress while you have lunch and a beer ($5). The burgers are juicy ($17), or you can try the poke ($16) or a kalua pork sandwich with fries ($20). Although Hana’s food trucks have a lot to offer, it’s nice to take a break at this enduring Americanstyle dining room, browse in the shops and enjoy the view.

Prices: $12-$22; cash only Get your beach fix at Huli Huli Chicken, where the food is barbecued on a grill overlooking the sea, and you can eat at Koki Beach Park, one of the prettiest beaches on Maui. This unusual beach has red bluffs and pounding surf; it’s not a good place to swim, but the mixture of black, white and red sand is beautiful. The chicken stand has been here off and on for about 20 years, according to locals. It’s manned by community members and features daily specials. No matter what else is on the menu, you can count on chicken being available as long as the stand is open.

Insider tip: It’s also nice to take advantage of the restroom facilities, which are in short supply in Hana.

Insider tip: Koki Beach Park is less than three miles beyond Hana on Hawaii 360.

Insider tip: You may not find restroom facilities here during the winter. Info: Da Fish Shack, 5230 Hana Highway, Hana; (808) 269-3922, facebook.com/ dafishshack

Insider tip: Southern Californians are in luck: One of these fresh-and-healthy restaurants is opening May 10 in the city of Orange. Info: Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kihei Road, No. 204, Kihei; (808) 879-3675, and 120 Hookele St., Suite 330, Kahului; forkandsaladmaui .com

Info: Hana Ranch Restaurant, 5031 Hana Highway, Hana; (808) 270-5280

Info: Huli Huli Chicken, Koki Beach Park, 175 Haneoo Road, Hana; no phone number or website.

S UNDAY , A P RIL 21, 2019

L AT IM ES .CO M/ TR AV E L

Y UI MAHI-MAHI, one of several fish

KALUA pork and cabbage, with rice,

DOUGHNUTS on a stick, left, cream

CHICKEN pot pie, one of several sa-

macaroni salad and lomi tomato.

puffs and coconut Danish.

vory and sweet pie offerings.

grilled, sauteed, blackened or Cajun.

9. Joey’s Kitchen

10. Komoda Store & Bakery

11. Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop

12. Paia Fish Market

Prices: $6-$21 Find fresh island fish, plate lunches and Filipino fusion at Joey’s Kitchen, a great place to visit if you’d like to avoid the high prices at Kaanapali hotels. Chef Joey Macadangdang left his job as a corporate chef to open his own restaurants, including this food court cafe in Whalers Village. Dishes here are more creative than at most mall restaurants. You’ll find typical Hawaiian plates — kalua pork ($14), kalbi ribs ($19), pork lau lau ($15) — plus several Filipino specialties with cabbage, rice and macaroni salad ($12).

Prices: $1.15 and up Sweeten your vacation with a stop at this 103-year-old institution in Upcountry Maui. It’s an ideal place to visit if you’re in the area to see the volcano at Haleakala National Park. Stop by the store and get a sugar high on one of Maui’s favorite indulgences: cream puffs ($2), stick doughnuts ($1.68), bread ( $3.25) and butter rolls ($8.50). The family-owned store — and the cowboy town of Macawao itself — are a throwback to turn-of-the-20th-century Maui. Allow some time to look around while you’re here. You’ll find galleries and fun shops.

Prices: $10-$16 What a surprise: This cute diner along Honoapiilani Highway may have escaped your attention. Leoda’s is getting such great word of mouth from both locals and visitors that you should try it. You’ll find a lot to like here, especially the pies: sweet, savory and hand-held empanada-style pockets. There are other things on the menu: hoagies, dogs, salads. But pies are the real draw; choose from chicken ($10), turkey ($11.50) or veggie ($10) savory pies, or sweets such as apple crumb or banana cream ($7.50-$8.75). The restaurant, named for a woman who lived here during the plantation era, bakes as many as 800 sweet pies daily.

Prices: $5-$26.95 It’s hard to believe how many things have changed in the 30 years since the Paia Fish Market opened in this village near the route to Hana. The town is booming, the road often is gridlocked, and the fish market now has three locations in Maui and one in Waikiki. One thing hasn’t changed: Diners still line up for generous portions of exquisitely fresh fish at affordable prices. Order at a counter and eat family-style at indoor bench tables or take your food to go. I loved the seafood salad topped with a chunk of mahi or ono ($14.95) and the fish and chips ($13.95-$15.95).

Insider tip: Joey’s is on the bottom level of the mall a few steps from the beach. Take your plate to go.

Insider tip: The store opens at 7 a.m. and is popular, especially on Saturdays. Arrive early; the selection is limited by 11 a.m.

Info: Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina; (808) 8684474, joeyskitchenhimaui.com

Info: Komoda Store & Bakery, 3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; (808) 572-7261

RAMEN with chicken katsu, corn,

seaweed, bamboo, cabbage, fish cake.

Inside tip: The earlier you arrive, the better the variety.

Insider tip: Visit bustling Paia shops or watch the giant waves at nearby Hookipa and Peahi beaches.

Info: Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Road, Lahaina; (808) 662-3600, leodas.com

Info: Paia Fish Market, 100 Hana Highway, Paia; (808) 579-8030, paiafishmarket.com. Other locations in Lahaina, Kihei and Waikiki.

CHICKEN papaya salad with Maui

THE SUNRISE platter with Hawai-

SALMON plate with tomatoes, jas-

goat cheese, avocado, macadamia nuts.

ian Portuguese sausage and potatoes.

mine rice, Chinese broccoli, Thai basil.

13. Ramen Ya

14. Sea House Restaurant

15. Sunrise Cafe

16. Thai Mee Up

Prices: $9.50-$12.25 Need a break? Queen Kaahumanu Center is Maui’s largest regional shopping center, with two Macy’s and dozens of smaller shops and restaurants. It’s also home to Ramen Ya, a small chain that offers big portions of island favorites. The Japanese cafe, a favorite with locals, simmers its broth daily for more than 12 hours. Taste it in Big Bowl Ramen ($12.25), a dish that’s big enough to feed three people. Other top sellers at this tidy mall restaurant are seafood crispy noodle ($11.75) and mochiko chicken ($10.75).

Prices: $9-$18 Get in tune with paradise at Sea House Restaurant, where the sight and sound of the surf competes for attention with flavorful Pacific Rim cuisine. This hotel restaurant, at the Napili Kai Beach Resort, sits on a bluff overlooking lovely Napili Bay. Dine on the terrace at lunch to see swaying palm trees, aquamarine waters and reasonable prices, with sandwiches and salads in the $12-$14 range. I loved the chicken papaya salad with goat cheese, avocado and macadamia nuts ($14).

Prices: $6.95-$13.95, cash only Have $10 to spend on breakfast? Sunrise Cafe is your kind of place. This hole-inthe-wall diner built around a tree offers three specials for $6.95 (eggs plus pancake, French toast or waffle). Add coffee for $2.75, plus tax, and you’ve spent slightly less than $10. (Please don’t forget the tip.) One of our faves here is the loco moco, with a hearty beef patty, eggs, gravy, toast and fruit ($11.95). If you’re looking for lunch, you can choose from 11 sandwiches and five salads. Nothing on the menu costs more than $14.

Prices: $9-$15 If you’ve never seen an upscale food truck, don’t miss Thai Mee Up, which may be Hawaii’s classiest truck. It also has some of the best Thai food on Maui. Owners Tom and Brandie Sribura “want to keep the quality the same as what you’d find in a nice restaurant,” Tom Sribura said. “We work hard on that.” Their snazzy double-trailer truck is finished in walnut and mahogany and is the culmination of four years of work. Try the salmon with jasmine rice and vegetables ($13) or the occasional special New York steak and lobster ($20). Take the food home or dine at a picnic table.

Inside tip: This is the place to come when you’re really hungry. Portions are huge. Info: Ramen Ya, Queen Kaahumanu Center, 275 W. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului; (808) 873-9688, ramenyahawaii.com

Insider tip: Try the inexpensive Whale Watchers’ Happy Hour menu from 2-4:30 p.m., with ribs, tacos, coconut shrimp and other dishes for $7-$8.

Insider tip: This tiny mom-and-pop is hard to find. It’s across the street from the Lahaina Public Library.

Insider tip: The easiest way to find Thai Mee Up is to look for Costco; it’s across the street in a small food-truck center.

Info: Sea House Restaurant, 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Napili; (808) 669-1500, napilikai.com/dining

Info: 693 Front St. A, Lahaina; (808) 6618558, bit.ly/mauisunrisecafe

SALMON belly karaage is marinated

GREEN curry chicken, vegetables,

SPINACH salad with Kula straw-

salmon lightly coated and deep-fried.

chicken pad Thai noodles and rice.

berries, maple bacon and nuts.

sweet pork, fish cake and choy sum.

17. Tin Roof

18. Upcountry Farmers Market

19. Volcano Bar & Grill

20. Zippy’s

Prices: $16-$22 Put on your sunniest Hawaiian shirt or strappy dress and visit Grand Wailea, one of Maui’s iconic luxury resorts, for lunch at the Volcano Bar & Grill. The cafe, surrounded by nine pools, waterfalls and slides, is a pleasant place to spend a few midday hours and mingle with big spenders. Twelve entrees meet our criteria, including a turkey burger and chips ($19), ahi tuna roll ($19) and a kula spinach salad with bacon and strawberries ($16).

Prices: $7-$13.20 Zippy’s, a Hawaiian chain, is open 24 hours and on Sundays, when most of the island’s mom-and-pops take the day off. It’s based on Oahu but has one restaurant in Maui and is a great place for families, with lots of kid-friendly food and low-key ambience. Sort of Denny’s with an Asian twist. We liked the tun min saimin noodles ($8.49) and the chicken with rice and salad ($13.35), but there are other things to try, including chili, an island favorite.

Insider tip: Plans are underway for major renovations at the hotel, which was purchased last year by Blackstone Group.

Insider tip: Quantity wins here, so Zippy’s will fill the bill when you’re hungry.

Prices: $7-$14 You’ll have to set your GPS to find Tin Roof, a popular lunch joint. It’s in a commercial neighborhood, with car repair shops and a FedEx office for neighbors. But locals love it and give it high marks for creativity, sustainable cooking and island flavors. Chef Sheldon Simeon, a Hawaiian native who has competed twice on “Top Chef,” refers to his tiny food outlet as a “new-generation mom and pop.” He owns it with his wife, Janice. Try the salmon belly ($11), poke bowl ($14) or one of the daily specials. Take the food to go; the shop is crowded and hot, and there’s nowhere to sit. Insider tip: Order your food online so you can pick it up and avoid the long wait. Info: Tin Roof, 360 Papa Place, Suite Y, Kahului; (808) 868-0753, tinroofmaui.com

Prices: $6-$12 for prepared food Step up to the produce stand. Maui has five farmers markets, excellent places to find fresh food and become part of the island community. The Upcountry Farmers Market, 7-11 a.m. on Saturdays, was voted “Best of Maui” in the local newspaper the last five years. You’ll find exotic fruits and vegetables, sourdough bread — made with 155-year-old starter, according to the seller — and a host of prepared foods. Our green curry chicken plate from Pan’s Thai was a bargain at $10. Insider tip: Don’t get here late; many vendors have left by 11 a.m. Info: Upcountry Farmers Market, Kulamalu Town Center, 55 Kiopaa St., Pukalani; (808) 283-3257, upcountryfarm ersmarket.com

Info: Thai Mee Up, 591 Haleakala Highway, Kahului; (808) 214-3369, facebook.com/ thaimeeup

Info: Volcano Bar & Grill, Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea; (808) 875-1234, grandwailea.com/dine/#volcano -bar

WON TON min with saimin noodles,

Info: Zippy’s, 15 Hookele St., Kahului; (808) 856-7599, zippys.com

Shape USA Circulation: 2,555,313 Ad Value: $1,266,300 March 2019

SUNDAY, MARCH 31, 2019

TRAVEL

Christian Horan Viceroy Los Cabos

LOOK AT THE NEW CABO This stretch of Mexico’s Baja California coastline keeps getting more luxurious, and there are few bargains to be found. Take a look at eight of the latest, greatest resorts and discover what’s still to come. With posh pools and high-end amenities, it’s no wonder this is a fave L.A. getaway. L4-5

S U NDAY, MARCH 31, 2 019

LAT IMES.C OM/TRAVEL

LOS CABOS, SO LUXE BY ROSEMARY MCCLURE >>> LOS CABOS, Mexico — World-class sport fishing put the southern tip of Baja California on the map for U.S. tourists

nearly 50 years ago. Now five-star resorts are keeping it there. ¶ Los Cabos, an umbrella term for the region’s cities and tourist developments, has evolved from fishermen’s paradise to vacation focal point for celebs and the ultra-rich. The appeal? It’s a two-hour plane ride from L.A., and you can speak English, stay in American-style resorts and pay for souvenirs in U.S. dollars. ¶ The last time I visited the area, more than a decade ago, there was a lot of cactus and dirt and not much else between Cabo San Lucas, on the Pacific Ocean, and San José del Cabo, about 20 miles away on the Gulf of California. Now 10 miles of that coastline have filled with hotels and services. ¶ I spent five days in February getting acquainted with the luxury hotels that opened over the last year and those due to open soon. Some are architecturally beautiful (Viceroy Los Cabos), some have impeccable service (Montage Los Cabos), and some offer tranquillity (Solaz Los Cabos). ¶ Here’s a closer look at eight Baja newcomers:

Artist’s rendering of lobby from Four Seasons Resort

Abraham Luyando

Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos

Garza Blanca Resort & Spa

Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos, to open this summer, is part of the new Costa Palmas community on the East Cape of the Gulf of California, an isolated region known for its scenery. The 1,000-acre development, about 35 minutes north of San José del Cabo, includes multimillion-dollar homes and an Aman resort, which is still under construction. There will also be a marina capable of holding private yachts up to 200 feet. From $645 per night.

This spacious, all-inclusive resort midway between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo has had a soft opening, with a grand opening scheduled for May. Guests can grab special rates in the meantime as the hotel adds the finishing touches. From $290 a night for two, including meals and activities. Info: Garza Blanca Resort & Spa, Kilómetro 17.5 Transpeninsular Highway, Los Cabos, Mexico; (877) 208 0689, cabo.garzablancaresort.com

Info: Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos, Calle Hacienda Eureka, La Ribera, Los Cabos, Mexico; fourseasons.com/loscabos

John Russo Montage Los Cabos

Le Blanc Spa Resorts

Le Blanc Spa Resort

Montage Los Cabos

Looking for a good time? Try this all-inclusive Palace resort, which specializes in fun, with lots of pool games and a giant spa. Think of it as a cruise ship on land. It opened in September and is midway between Cabo and San José del Cabo. Spring rates from $800 per night for two. including meals and activities.

One of Orange County’s favorite luxury resort brands last year launched its first international hotel here on a beautiful bay that once was home to the Hotel Twin Dolphin. It’s one of the area’s few resorts with a swimmable beach. The style is more Scottsdale, Ariz., than Baja, Mexico, but if you like cushy digs, exclusivity and tranquil surroundings, this place is for you. From $825 per night.

Info: Le Blanc Spa Resort, Kilómetro 18.4 Transpeninsular Highway, Los Cabos, Mexico; (888) 702-0913, leblancsparesorts.com/los-cabos/en/spa

Info: Montage Los Cabos, Kilómetro 12.5 Transpeninsular Highway, Los Cabos, Mexico; (800) 772-2226, montagehotels.com/loscabos

Nobu Hotel Los Cabos

Rosemary McClure

Nobu Hotel Los Cabos

Riu Palace Baja California

If you like Nobu’s fusion restaurants, you may want to try this 200-room beachfront hotel and golf course. It’s the first Mexican property from the team of Robert De Niro and chef Nobu Matsuhisa. It combines Japanese minimalism with Mexican wood, stone and marble. The resort hopes to open Monday with special rates of $490.75 per night, including breakfast.

The Riu chain runs more than 100 hotels in 19 countries, but it isn’t well known in the U.S. This newcomer opened in December and joins two other Riu hotels along the coast of Los Cabos. It’s all-inclusive, adults only and is higher end than its brethren but lower end than other hotels here that have opened recently. All-inclusive rates from $147 per night, per person, including meals and activities. Take care when booking; the two older Rius with similar names are next door.

Info: Nobu Hotel Los Cabos, Polígono 1 Fracción D, Fraccionamiento Diamante, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico; 011-52-624-689-0160, nobuhotelloscabos.com

Info: Riu Palace Baja California, Camino Viejo a San Jose, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico; (888) 748 4990, bit.ly/riupalacebaja

Christian Horan Viceroy Los Cabos

Solaz, Luxury Collection

Solaz Los Cabos

Viceroy Los Cabos

Some U.S. residents go to Mexico to stay in American-style hotels. Others go to learn about Mexico. Solaz is chock-full of Mexican art, style and striking desert landscaping. The 128-room beachfront hotel is midway between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo and is the Luxury Collection’s first hotel on the Baja Peninsula. Each room is designed with local Huanacaxtle wood and bamboo-textured marble, custom furnishings and an original wall sculpture by Cesar López Negrete. From $402 a night.

This stunning hotel opened in May and has been wowing visitors ever since. Architect Miguel Angel Aragonés wanted to “bring the ocean inside” and used tranquil pools to create mirrors. Water surrounds the 192-room hotel, wrapping around its white buildings that are connected by elevated walkways. It’s a blissful experience for people who like to shoot pictures or videos. If you visit, don’t miss the Nest, its lounge, above. From $425 a night.

Info: Solaz Los Cabos, Kilómetro 18.5 Transpeninsular Highway, Los Cabos, Mexico; (833) 887-6529, bit.ly/solazloscabos

Info: Viceroy Los Cabos, Paseo Malecón San José, Lote 8, Zona Hotelera, San José del Cabo, México; (844) 222-6987, viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/en/loscabos

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DECE M BE R 2018

MAKING SPIRITS BRIGHT

Finds Travel By Erin Rottman

Presents With Presence INSTEAD OF THINGS, GIVE MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES FOR 2019.

Snowy horseback rides and cozy lodging in cabins like the Chipmunk Cottage set the scene for a winter weekend of tasting and learning about wines from the Napa Valley and the Pacific Northwest at Triple Creek Ranch in Darby, Montana.

participants about the soils, individual grape varieties, and history of the vineyards, “became this very relaxed intimate opportunity for people to get together,” says Jennifer O’Donohue, director of sales and marketing at the independently owned ranch. Staffers ask guests about their preferences in advance and customize activities like cooking classes and photo scavenger hunts. At the end of the day, guests return to luxurious cabins with wood-burning fireplaces, log-post beds, area rugs, and leather club chairs. Be sure to reserve one with a private outdoor hot tub.

RIDE,WINE, AND DINE

For his wife’s 30th birthday last year, John Grossman, avid cyclist and owner of La Playa Carmel (laplayahotel.com), got a dozen friends together and led a bike ride from the hotel to nearby Galante Vineyards, where a harvest lunch and wine tasting awaited the riders. “We all had so much fun that we thought it’d be ridiculous to keep it from other people,” says Grossman, who insists that walking is too slow and driving is too fast, but cycling is the perfect speed for traveling. Grossman is inviting the public to get in on the fun with La Playa Carmel’s fournight Ride, Wine, and Dine experience ($4,500 per person). Designed for eight to 12 people, the package includes three days of riding with pre-ride service and safety checks, en-route rest stops with snacks, mechanical and van support, and a gift certificate to Carmel’s Refuge indoor-outdoor spa. A winemaker’s dinner and all other meals are included. “If you ride your bike all day, you can feel very happy about imbibing as much as you want,” Grossman says, “and it tastes all the better.” La Playa Carmel’s Ride, Wine, and Dine package combines a four-night stay with three days of bicycle tours in and around Carmel, each of which concludes with a culinary experience featuring wines from nearby Galante Vineyards.

DECEMBER 2018 / 805LIVING.COM

TOP, LEFT AND RIGHT: TRIPLE CREEK RANCH; BOTTOM, LEFT: LA PLAYA CARMEL; BOTTOM, RIGHT: CLIMATE RIDE

A WHITE WINE TASTING

vintner weekend in western Montana’s Bitterroot Mountains may be the ideal gift for the wine-enthusiast who also likes snow and wood-burning fireplaces. The adults-only, all-inclusive Triple Creek Ranch (triplecreekranch.com; from $1,050 a night) offers year-round packages, but during the weekends of January 18, February 14, and March 14, the crowds subside. Winemakers from Napa Valley, eastern Washington, and beyond present their vintages and go horseback riding and snowshoeing with guests. The winter vintner weekends, which teach

JULY/AUGUST 2018

Top 100 Suites TRAVEL THE WORLD IN STYLE WITH OUR DEFINITIVE LIST OF THE BEST ACCOMMODATIONS ON THE PLANET

WIL SH IR E PR E SIDENTIAL SU ITE

elite traveler

JULY/AUG 2018

BEVERLY WILSHIRE, A FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA, USA From the vantage point of the eighth-floor Wilshire Presidential Suite, you’ll be entranced by views of Rodeo Drive and the Hollywood Hills. The iconic hotel was built in 1928, and the Wilshire Presidential Suite, located in the original Wilshire Wing, features original designs, such as the roman columns that extend to the top of the doubleheight ceiling, crown moldings and a skylight. A neutral color palette and contemporary interiors evoke classic Beverly Hills and old-school Hollywood glamour. Exclusive to guests of the suite is a Porsche Panamera for personal use around the city, dedicated personal concierge and, in true Californian fashion, five hours of personal time per week with the choice of spa treatments, personal trainer, fashion stylist and hair-andmakeup artist. From $20,000 per night. Contact Michael Carreon, managing director, michael.carreon@ fourseasons.com, +1 310 275 5200, fourseasons.com

J O H N JACO B A STO R E STATE THE ST. REGIS MALDIVES VOMMULI RESORT, DHAALU ATOLL, MALDIVES Clear views of the turquoise ocean extend for miles when you stay at the John Jacob Astor Estate, one of the St. Regis’s most luxurious offerings in the Maldives. Located directly off of the private-island resort with white-sand beaches and rainforest, the massive estate is a two-level, three-bedroom bungalow suspended atop crystal-clear waters. Inside, its sleek design focuses on muted materials, and the furniture draws upon traditional style from Indian Ocean cultures. On the main deck, lounge chairs and daybeds surround the 900-sq-ft infinity pool and Jacuzzi, and stairs lead directly into the ocean for underwater adventure. Its location at the west of the island yields spectacular sunset views each night. From $26,220 per night. Contact Yaiza Cardo Ramírez, yaiza.cardo@stregis.com, assistant director of marketing and communications, +960 676 6333, stregismaldives.com

T Y WAR N ER PENTH O USE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL NEW YORK, NEW YORK Sprawled across the 52nd floor of the Four Seasons Hotel New York is the 4,300-sq-ft Ty Warner Penthouse. Floating 500 feet above Manhattan, you have 360-degree views of the entire city through 25-ft bay windows or from four cantilevered glass balconies — the highest in the world. The penthouse — designed by architect IM Pei, designer Peter Marino and the hotel’s owner, Ty Warner — took seven years to finish and has one-of-a-kind furnishings, including master bath sinks carved from blocks of rock crystal, hand-lacquered mother-of-pearl inlay and an extravagant fiber-optic glass-shard chandelier above the dining table. Complimentary beauty treatments are offered in the suite’s private spa, plus you can have an art concierge and a private Rolls-Royce chauffeur for the duration of your stay. From $50,000 per night. Contact Rudy Tauscher, general manager, reservations.nyf@fourseasons.com, +1 212 758 5700, fourseasons.com

THE AWARDS ISSUE

@LACMAGA Z I N E M O D E R N L U X U R Y. C O M

ARMIE HAMMER

space SPOTLIGHT Clockwise from left: “Sense of Wonder” by Kahori Maki hangs in Kimpton La Peer’s new gallery; panels by Icelandic artist Mireya Samper; architect Gulla Jónsdóttir.

Exhibit A-List PORTRAIT AND INSTALLATION PHOTO BY JESUS BANUELOS; MASTER X PHOTO BY ART GRAY

FOR GULLA JÓNSDÓTTIR, ART + COMMERCE = PERFECT BEDFELLOWS. BY ALEXANDRIA ABRAMIAN Guests at buzzy boutique hotel Kimpton La Peer can skip the art exhibit trek and instead head to the ground floor to experience LA’s only in-hotel gallery. After casting her decoinfused, high-drama vision for the sexy 105-room retreat, architect Gulla Jónsdóttir delivered an encore: a just-opened gallery off the lobby. “Adding a gallery means that people who come to the hotel get to experience something visually different from visit to visit,” says the Icelandic-born designer, who has previously worked with starchitect Richard Meier. With direct street access, the gallery is in a prime position to attract both Le Peer guests as well as visitors to West Hollywood’s booming Design District. “It will change every two months, and although everything will be for sale, it’s

MODERNLUXURY.COM

not a retail store,” insists Jónsdóttir, adding that the project has brought her full circle. “I started my company in a 2,000-squarefoot office in this very location. Years later, I’m designing the entire space! It was a nice flow of things.” Exhibits will include everything from fine art to photography and furniture, while Jónsdóttir’s own creations will also get gallery time—first with her debut collection of limited-edition art and furniture called Brass, and later with a collection of caftans and scarves that she made for iconic Icelandic accessories brand Saga Kakala. “I want the entire space to be a gateway to beauty. Some of the things I will have created... others are simply things that I desire.” 627 N. La Peer Drive, West Hollywood, lapeerhotel.com; gullajonsdottir.com

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UK £10.00 US $16.99 AUS $16.99 CDN $17.99 DKK 125.00 FR €14.50 DE €14.90 ITA €14.50 JPN ¥2000 SGP $28.50 ES €14.00 CHF 18.90 AED 85.00

MAY 2018

*THE STUFF THAT REFINES YOU

Tricks and treats Ssssscary monsters, design demons and a nonagenarian icon

Next stop Salone All aboard for our bumper Milan Preview

Go east The rise of the post-Soviets

Super natural The digital sublime of Studio Drift

Future factories How making is moving on

Double dishes from the Campana brothers

Travel

Scene setter ORIGIN GRILL & BAR, SINGAPORE

The latest outfit to join the impeccable stable of eateries at Singapore’s Shangri-La Hotel is Origin, which occupies the ground floor spot vacated by the iconic Nadaman. Designed by A Work of Substance, the space unfolds as a series of set-pieces. Just off the coppery-arched foyer is the bar, a moody blue cavern offering a cocktail menu spiked with jackfruit marmalade, torch ginger flowers, bamboo leaves and osthmanthus fortified wine. In the main room, furnished like an old-fashioned train station platform with hand-stitched Tripolina leather chairs and globe lamps, chef Heidi Flanagan grills snow-aged Niigata wagyu, Fremantle octopus and Lombok lobsters on the charcoal and wood oven. DW Shangri-La Hotel, 22 Orange Grove Road, Singapore, tel: 65.6213 4595, shangri-la.com

Hollywood treasure LA PEER HOTEL, LOS ANGELES

The Kimpton hotel group’s latest property has opened in West Hollywood’s Design District, cleaving close to the brand’s MO for opening in buzzy quarters. Icelandicborn designer Gulla Jónsdóttir has meshed a European sensibility with a strong sense of place. As such, a white topography artwork of the LA landscape dominates the entrance, while a poolside installation by local graffiti artist Retna sits alongside Gaudi tiles from Barcelona. Guest rooms feature muted grey and beige tones, white oak herringbone floors and giant soaking tubs, where bubbles and champagne can be waiting after dinner at the hotel’s modern trattoria Viale dei Romani. Carole Dixon 627 North La Peer Drive, West Hollywood, California, US, tel: 1.213 296 3038, lapeerhotel.com. Rates: from $448

High impact

Photography: Chris Cypert, Laure Joliet, Fernando Guerra

THE CATUÇABA HIDEAWAY, SÃO PAULO

Located on a 12,000-acre farming estate and set high on a bluff swathed in brush, The Catuçaba revels in its isolation. Using responsibly sourced Amazon hardwoods, Studio MK27 has fashioned an elongated floating platform of expansive timber decks, bedrooms and cosy spaces furnished with locally-accented rugs, blue window shutters, textiles and clay bricks. Eucalyptus twig screens cast mesmerising shadows and provide cross-breezes during summer, while chillier nights can be whiled away in a copper bathtub or by ceramic wood-burning stoves. Days can be spent on horseback trails with strapping gauchos, doing laps in rock pools, or eating platters of grass-fed steaks in local village restaurants. DW São Luíz do Paraitinga, São Paulo, tel: 41.41 520 60 46, offgridhideaways.com. Rates: from $750

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JUNE/JULY 2018

CONTENTS JUNE/JULY 2018

DEPARTMENTS

EDITOR’S NOTE! STEFANIE LINGLE BEASLEY Music, Merlot, Magic & More . . .

WANDERLUST Hotels, inns, and resorts to love now

PACK " PLAY Resort wear, accessories, and must-haves for spring travels

WEEKEND GETAWAY The Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa emerges from a multi-million renovation as a gem on the Monterey Peninsula.

DESTINATION DESIGN New in Napa Valley. A historic St. Helena home is reborn as an ultra-chic inn. Gentry Destination’s Chief Photographer Jack Hutcheson captures the beautiful new Ink House.

MY FAVORITE # # # Polo player, entrepreneur, and Stick + Ball CEO Elizabeth Welborn discusses one of her favorite discusses: Costa Careyes, Mexico

weekend getaway

BEAUTY ON THE BAY The Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa emerges from a multi-million renovation as a gem on the Monterey Peninsula. STORY BY STEFANIE LINGLE BEASLEY

I am not an early riser. I have always been a “night person,” finding that I work best late in the evening when the house is quiet and all are asleep. But that changed on a recent stay at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. I had gone to bed with the room’s wonderful glass doors open to hear the lapping of the waves outside (such an incredible treat) and at 5:30AM felt compelled to draw the drapes and watch the wonder and majesty that is sunrise over Monterey Bay. At first just a few twinkling lights dotted the landscape, but they gave way to swirling grey mists and the first shafts of sunlight spreading out like a fan across the water. Otters dotted the swaying kelp beds cracking shells on their chests while the occasional seagull would swoop and soar. Early morning stand-up paddle (SUP) boarders took advantage of the Bay’s early morn44 | G E N T R Y D E S T I N AT I O N S

ing glass-like surface, and fishing boats headed out from the harbor. With a steaming cup of coffee in hand and this brilliant, almost magical show before me, I was mesmerized. Such are the joys of a stay at the remodeled Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. The hotel has always boasted an extraordinary location set on the rugged shore, but as with all grand dame hotels, a recent refresh was in order. The team at the Monterey Plaza has done a terrific job updating the décor while still paying homage to its classic luxury. The exquisite teak paneling and railings in the lobby and public spaces have been restored and polished to a sheen. Lingering in the spectacular Helmsman Lounge in the lobby with a cocktail in the evening is a must as is dining at Schooners Coastal Kitchen + Bar for lunch on the marvelous sundeck. Tables crafted from vintage wooden surfboards are ➛

weekend getaway

set against glass railings so that you can take full advantage of the view while dining on some of Monterey Bay’s best seafood (the clam chowder with a hint of sherry is an absolute must!). Each of the hotel’s 290 rooms has received an update too. Laura Cook Interiors crafted a soothing new blue and stone color scheme that draws inspiration from the coastal setting. The guest rooms now feature tastefully selected bedding, chairs, desks, wallpaper and drapes, as well as new balcony furniture, walk-in showers and natural stonework in all bathrooms. The hotel’s new spacious suites include large glass sliding doors that lead to private balconies with dramatic oceanfront views, and elegant living spaces complemented by spa-like marble bathrooms and modern entertainment amenities.

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The hotel’s marvelous Vista Blue Spa has a newly renovated rooftop sundeck with whirlpool spas and a glowing fireplace with panoramic views of gorgeous Monterey Bay (the hotel’s jaw-dropping Presidential Suite boasts its own rooftop deck and private hot tub, too). The renowned spa offers rejuvenating, wellness-focused, European-style services inspired by the sea and the seasons in seven soothing treatment rooms. For a weekend getaway, you might never want to leave the hotel property, but if you do, the magic of Monterey Peninsula and its myriad activities, adventures, dining, and shopping awaits. ◆ For more information and to make a reservation, please visit www.montereyplazahotel.com or call 877.636.1618.

Destinations

T H E L AT E ST LO C A L T R AV E L D E A L S A N D G E TAWAYS PLU S J O U R N E YS A RO U N D T H E G LO B E

ISLAND FLAVOR

OLIVIER KONING

A few top picks on what to do and where to eat on Oahu. BY MIMI TOWLE

Minaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fish House

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Destinations / GO HAWAII

Honolulu’s Champs-Élysées, Kalakaua Avenue, offers world-class shopping and access to Waikiki Beach.

! History Get the story on the person behind

Away from it all.

KoOlina.com

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the prominent promenade Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki at the Honolulu Museum of Art. Through January, the museum will be hosting Ho‘oulu Hawai‘i: The King Kalākaua Era. It brings together works and reveals never-beforedisplayed pieces. Why go? Learning more about the Merrie Monarch, as he was called, offers insight into what the Kingdom of Hawaii faced in the final years before being overthrown in 1873. During his nearly 20-year reign (1874– 1891), King Kalākaua guided his island nation back to its Hawaiian roots by bringing back hula and other native traditions. The exhibition includes a look at travel and technology, Kalākaua’s scrapbooks, photography, early telephones in the kingdom, hula, music, fashion and ukulele. honolulumuseum.org

! Music Buy, try or just enjoy the melodic strains of the ukulele all over town. Look for some of the superstar players, such as Jack Shimabukuro, Taimane Gardner or the trio Keauhou. As the uke has become more popular, many instrument production shops have added a factory tour to give enthusiasts a behind-the-scenes peek at how these fourstring lutes are made. Some names to look for are Kamaka Ukulele, Koaloha Ukulele and the Kanile`a `Ukulele factory (with tour) on the

windward side of the island. kamakahawaii.co, koaloha.com, kanileaukulele.com

! Bike Consider being part of the solution

to the island’s traffic gridlock by signing up for Bikeshare Hawaii. The company has just added 40 new Biki docking stations to its already existing 100 around town. Not only are you, even as a visitor, helping ease road congestion, but the cost savings means you can do some serious souvenir shopping. A single ride costs $3.50, while an entire month tops out at $15. gobiki.org

EAT

Marin’s Michael Mina opened Mina’s Fish House at the Four Seasons Oahu, offering lineto-table seafood with panoramic views of the ocean. Top dishes include fries cooked in duck fat and Singapore Street Noodles. Since worldclass cuisine and views don’t come cheap, those on a budget should opt for happy hour. michaelmina.net Mead fans now have an imbibing spot in Oahu’s hip Chinatown: Paisley Meadery recently opened on North King Street, serving not only the bubbly honey-based libation but also multicultural cuisine, including street tacos and Vietnamese-style sandwiches. paisleymeadery.com While seafood is a natural for Oahu dining, the savory, sometimes salty porcine is much celebrated as well. The latest dining spot to honor the swine is the Surfing Pig in the hipster neighborhood of Kaimuki. This version is an offshoot of sister restaurant Kono’s, the North Shore haunt famous for its 12-hour slow-roasted kalua pork. The newcomer’s menu includes roasted ribs, flatbread pizza, crab cakes and pasta. thesurfingpig.co