La Playa Carmel Media Highlights 2014 by C&R PR

Hotels go luxe with turndown gifts, from fruit pies to cognac

RiverPlace Hotel

By Irene S. Levine, Special to Tribune Newspapers

OCTOBER 7, 2014, 1:24 PM

Turndown service is a sweet luxury, especially when accompanied with a surprise on your pillow. To wow guests, hotels and resorts are offering locally inspired turndown amenities infused with history, culture and whimsy. Guests at the Caldwell House Bed and Breakfast (Salisbury Mills, N.Y.) receive homemade miniature fruit pies with locally sourced fillings. "Anyone can do a boring mint," said co-owner Dena Finneran. "We wanted something fun and delicious when pie season is in full swing." At Farmhouse Inn (Sonoma, Calif.), guests find s'mores kits: house-made marshmallows, Valrhona chocolate and crunch grahams, perfect for toasting over in-room fireplaces.

At The Inn at Leola Village (Leola, Pa.), guests receive "whoopee pies," traditional Amish desserts in stamped gift boxes reading: "Enjoy a little whoopee tonight."

At La Cantera Hill Country Resort (San Antonio, Texas), tiny "worry dolls" in hand-painted cases come with a suggestion to place them beneath the pillow for worry-free sleep. Native American-owned Hotel Santa Fe, The Hacienda and Spa (Santa Fe, N.M.) offers Native American Wisdom Story Cards along with Kachina dolls made by Hopi and Zuni people. Belmond Charleston Place (Charleston, S.C.) honors the area's roots with a Lowcountry favorite, Benne Wafers. Sesame seeds (used for the cookies) were brought from West Africa before being planted extensively throughout the South. The boutique RiverPlace Hotel (Portland, Ore.) delivers an evening cognac "nightcap" with a snifter and elegant card. Chocolate never goes out of style: At the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa (Sonoma, Calif.), VIP guests receive wine-infused dark chocolate truffles. Newly restored La Playa Carmel by the Sea (Carmel, Calif.) dates to 1905, when an artist built the mansion as a gift for his wife, a member of the Ghirardelli Chocolate family. To maintain the historical link, turndown includes homemade chocolate chip cookies with milk, as well as the famous chocolates. Guests who stay at the MSC Yacht Club, the ship-within-a-ship on the only privately owned Italian cruise line, find highly addictive Venchi gourmet chocolates (made in Turin since 1878) in their cabins each night.

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The beautiful La Playa Carmel was originally designed as a private home by artist Christopher Jorgensen for his Ghirardelli heiress wife. It’s coastal modern design and elegantly generous spirit draws visitors from worldwide.

Boasting a new multi-million dollar restoration, Carmel’s La Playa seaside getaway charms with its gorgeous gardens, spectacular views, and unparalleled hospitality. Story by Milla Sukonik; Photos by Peter Sukonik

armel’s Grand Dame

NO WONDER LA PLAYA CARMEL IS CALLED “GRAND DAME OF CARMEL.” This gem in a dazzling setting is like a step back in time to old-world European charm. Envision an elegant English country manor amid luscious, flower-filled English gardens overlooking a turquoise pool that the Cote d’Azur would envy. Its shimmering ocean views and panoramic sunsets might suggest the west side of Italy, yet you’re basking in the glow of a longtime artists’ colony on California’s scenic northern coast. WIN T ER 2014 I CAV IA R A F FA IR

Beyond its serene beauty, the vibe is right for La Playa Carmel by -the -sea. It was built by an artist in 1905 as a mansion for his wife, whose family owned Ghirardelli Chocolate Company, founded in nearby San Francisco. A home built for chocolate lovers – we’re there! Of course, a lot’s changed since then – and lately. A hotel since 1916, the 75-room luxury boutique finished a multi-million-dollar renovation in 2012. And the restorers knew what they were doing; property manager Classic Hotels & Resorts also recently transformed the Arizona Biltmore to its original grandeur. Extensively upgraded from whitewashed rooms to sleek bathrooms, La Playa also modernized its lobby, lounge, library and bar, but without losing their old-California charm – a charm which, for nearly a century, has made this a haven for

artists, romantics and even business. (Steve Jobs held early Apple retreats here while he and his staff developed the Macintosh. Swift move on his part: How can you not be inspired by such beautiful R&R?) Much of that charm owes to La Playa’s staff, which will heed your needs with cheerful thoroughness and genuine care. When a beloved earring goes missing, they’ll even dismantle a vacuum cleaner to look for it. And the gardener will take time to identify the gorgeous blooms, from dahlias and black-eyed susans to hydrangeas and kinnikinnicks. More lovely touches include apples and cookies at the front desk, coffee, tea and sparkling water in your room, nighttime chocolate on your pillows, wine tasting at 5:30 p.m. and fresh baked cookies and milk later in the evening. Brush up on your chess skills with the life size chess set on the patio.

A Wood fire pizza oven is the heart of Cantinetta Luca in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

An assortment of Cantinetta Luca’s delicious appetizers” Below right: The elegant and relaxed atmosphere at Cantinetta Luca”

Forget continental breakfasts. La Playa’s famed Champagne Breakfast Buffet teems with croissants, top-tier French cheeses, prosciutto, bread pudding, waffles, yogurts, omelets and more. Its setting? A breakfast lounge which could’ve been snatched from a St. Tropez mansion, with dish-adorned walls and taffeta ivory-and-ice blue-striped stuffed chairs. While beholding La Playa’s lush gardens, you can hear the Pacific’s waves caressing the shore. And all this luxury is part of the room rate! Back in your cozy room, you’ll have views of the ocean, the gardens or the estate, thus sealing the deal that makes La Playa serenity at its best. But don’t worry: It’s also not far off beaten paths. Just two short blocks away are the sandy beaches of Carmel, also called Carmel-by-the-Sea. And just as close are the pleasures of “downtown” Carmel (population: 3,807), whose residents have included actress Doris Day, photographer Ansel Adams and Oscar-winner Clint Eastwood, once its mayor. With its tiny-town pace, this longtime artists’ colony makes for mellow vibes. So chill out and explore your immediate area 2

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WHERE TO DINE CANTINETTA LUCA, CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA cantinettaluca.com

Stumbling into this special find on Dolores Street brings you right back to the best secret family-style restaurants in Rome. Locals and visors enjoy delicious pizza, baked in an authentic, Italian, no gas, wood-burning pizza oven. Do not miss the salume and fresh handmade pasta. Simple and rustic at its best.

GRASINGS grasings.com

A longtime beloved Carmel-by-the Sea foodie destination, Grasings serves well prepared coastal cuisine such as perfect Dungeness Crab cakes and delicate local red abalone with easy sophistication. A highlight is their wine list dotted with special choices from Narsai David’s impressive cellar.

Just two blocks from the beach, Carmel La Playa’s main building boasts colorful private gardens surrounding a heated outdoor pool.

for shops, art galleries, restaurants or wine tasting rooms, either by foot, via resort shuttle or on bicycles you can rent – along with picnic baskets – at the concierge desk. By foot, wear flats or tennies. Carmel actually has an ordinance against wearing high heels, to skirt lawsuits from falls on its irregular pavement. Talk about charm! Feeling adventurous? Just 15 minutes from Monterrey Airport, La Playa Carmel is a two-hour drive from scenic San Francisco. Even closer, drive to area wineries, legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links, Monterey Bay Aquarium or ruggedly scenic Big Sur, with its towering Redwoods. This is, after all, majestically beautiful Northern California, so take advantage. Did we say wine? So does Carmel’s Chamber of Commerce, which offers a 4

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Wine Walk By-the-Sea Passport, a selfguided, self-paced stroll among nine tasting rooms to sample locally made still and sparkling wines. The $90 value includes waiving corkage charges at participating restaurants for bottles bought on the Wine Walk (one bottle per visit). Feeling like some zen? Find it at the Refuge, refuge.com. Surrounded by hills and replete with cold waterfall plunges, cedar sauna and a zero gravity recliner and a eucalyptus steam room, this firepit dotted, well manicured oasis revitalizes, energizes and cocoons. And back in your loving-it nest, La Playa Carmel hosts a Wine Hour each day at its rooftop bar. Clearly, it’s time for sips, scenery and serenity – by the sea. Laplayahotel.com

At Mizpe Hayamim, all rainfall is collected into a reservoir and used for the farm’s agriculture and the hotel’s gardening needs. The flow of water through pools and canals throughout the gardens cools the air on warm summer days.

Organic Oasis Savvy rejuvenation-seekers find tranquility with a beautiful view at Israel’s Mizpe Hayamim. By Polina Steier

CALL IT THE BIG CHILL. OR AN OASIS OF TRANQUILITY. Either way, the Mizpe Hayamim Spa Hotel is where those in-the-know rest and rejuvenate in Israel. And now it’s your turn.. Don’t see it just as a getting-away-from-it-all refuge – a retreat from the world’s clamor. Consider it a place to actively embrace while you tap your inner peace, from soothing spa treatments to food farmed organically on the hotel’s 37-acre grounds. Those rolling hills are home to orchards, streams, ponds, forests, flowering gardens and 96 rooms – 61 of them suites – overlooking the hotel or the Golan Heights, Hula Lake and Sea of Galilee, just to the south. Laced with scents of jasmine, lilac, lavender and honeysuckle, the Mizpe Hayamim’s environment is natural without being rustic. In fact, its vibe is one of quiet luxury. From its pampering amid a sea of

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W H AT ’ S

INSIDE

WINTER

2014

92 Photo: Chris Condon/PGA TOUR

IN EVERY ISSUE

32 Publisher’s Note By Steve Snider

34 Behind the Spotlight By Dina Eastwood

By Sharon Randall

By Laird Small and Dan Pasquariello By Marjorie Snow

80 Working Dogs

Tinkerbell and Sam, Coco Chanel

83 Style Carmel

Spring Fashion Explored

SHORTCUTS 46

Carmel Confidential

California Sea Otters Benefit from Filing Taxes; Merle Haggard Plays Carmel; Olympic Softball Player Starts Scholarship; and Estancia Wines Releases Crackling Candles

Racing Themed Restaurant Revs Up Monterey

New Spa Shines Brightly at the Hyatt Regency Monterey Marilyn Monroe Signature Spa Offers Pampering Treatments

156 Peninsula Scene

A Veritable Who’s Where of Events Around the Monterey Peninsula

Local Doctor Helps Patients Look Good, Feel Good

Baja Cantina Owners Launch Turn 12

44 Collecting

Knocking Them Down With Laughter Doug Gamble Helps Politicians Relate to Voters Through Humor

Local Pilot Turned Author Thrives on Adventure

Erik Fleming Flies Between Stunt Planes and Writing

JAZZ Line Puts a Cultural Spin on Public Transit

Moving Museum on Wheels Brings Music to Bus Riders

Nothing But Drinks and a Friendly Face

Alfredo’s Cantina in Monterey is an Amazing “Dive Bar”

Jack London’s Livens Up Food with Music Owner Paul Owen Creates a Welcoming Vibe

Local Father Creates 76 Low-Allergen Ice Cream Kai Lee Creamery in the American Tin Cannery Scoops Delicious Flavors

Dr. David Goldberg Focuses on Restorative Plastic Surgery

38 Local Knowledge 42 Take Your Best Shot

Fifty-five Years of Permanent and Rotating Exhibitions

36 Postcards from Home Neal Hotelling

New Monterey Museum of Art Director Inspired by Facility

Voters Choose Carmel as Top Destination Carmel Recognized by Condé Nast Traveler

Dr. Peter Wang’s Foundation Helps Ease Poverty with Service Learning

FOOD AND WINE 182

Drink

184

Good Taste

186

Food with a View

190

Food for Thought

Hawaiian Club Mellows Monterey Members Ke Kai O’Uhane Outrigger Canoe Club Has Hawaiian Charm

Pilates Project Inspires People to Move Again

Andrea Borgman Quist Offers Gentle Rehabilitative Exercises

Local Philanthropist Aims To Ease the World’s Pain

Grown-Up Hot Chocolate, La Playa Carmel Fandango

The Picturesque Beach House Restaurant at Lovers Point High Tide Opens, Jeninni’s Unusual Options, Tales from the Sardine Factory, and Healthy Eating for All

IN MEMORIUM 192

George Rodrigue By Steve Snider

V VALLEY LIFESTYLES MAGAZINE

FEBRUARY 2014 ValleyLifestyles.com

CHANDLER, GILBERT, QUEEN CREEK, MESA & TEMPE

Valentine FASHION, ROSES, HAUTE I TE M S

T H E L I F E S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E O F T H E E A S T VA L L E Y

getaway

CARMEL BY THE SEA

CASANOVA RESTAURANT

Quaint standard rooms provide exceptional value; deluxe rooms feature marble bathrooms and Jacuzzi tubs; and penthouse suites are the crème de la crème of luxury. Located within the inn is Il Fornaio, one of our favorite Italian eateries, and their Pine Inn location offers an historic ambience as well as their always-enticing pastas and yummy bakery treats. www.pineinn.com Just across the street from the Pine is their sister property, the very upscale Tally Ho Inn, an engaging boutique style B & B. With downtown Carmel’s most alluring oceanview rooms and large Jacuzzi tubs in each marble enhanced bathroom, your stay here is destined for loving memories. Bose radios, 55-inch high-def TVs, free WiFi, complimentary parking and breakfasts are featured. www. tallyho-inn.com La Playa Carmel, another historic hotel built in 1905 as a luxurious private mansion for a member of the famous Ghirardelli chocolate company family, was converted to a hotel in 1916.With numerous expansions, it has long been one of our favorite getaway destinations with an ideal location equidistant between the beach and downtown. A recent ownership change provided an infusion of millions of dollars toward much-needed improvements that leave an 74

VALLEY LIFESTYLES MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2014

indelible positive impression. A yesteryear ambience, year-round heated pool and their outdoor spa setting for a cozy late night dip have always been alluring to us. Complimentary Wi-Fi, limited parking and an exceptional gourmet breakfast buffet every morning are included. Their signature champagne Sunday brunch on the Pacific Terrace overlooking their colorful gardens and serene ocean views is the perfect way to start an idyllic day. www.laplayahotel.com A stay a while back at L’Auberge, a highly regarded four-diamond 20-room inn boasting a wonderful European flair, was a memorable experience. Aubergine, their signature restaurant, is touted as one of the highest rated dining experiences in California, and be sure to check out their incredible 4,500 bottle wine cellar used for small dinner parties. www.laubergecarmel.com If you want to stay closest to Carmel Beach, look no further than the Colonial Terrace. A recent stay at one of Carmel’s original lodges since 1925 proved to be an enjoyable experience, and their expanded complimentary continental breakfast was exceptional. www. thecolonialterrace.com Hyatt Carmel Highlands (formerly the Highlands Inn), a four-diamond resort just a few minutes south of town, sits gloriously perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The signature dining room, Pacific’s Edge, will please the most discerning palates, and the striking ambience combined with the stunning vistas from their cliffside setting are added plusses. USA Today named it one of the top 10 view restaurants in the United States. www.highlandsinn. hyatt.com Mission Ranch, owned by Clint Eastwood, is a very unique 31-room resort centered

around an 1850’s restored farmhouse with excellent tennis and fitness facilities. Their restaurant is one of our favorites for dining, especially on their outdoor heated patio with views of the grazing sheep and Point Lobos. We’ve actually seen Clint at the bar a few times watching sporting events, and you might spot him as well. But keep in mind, it’s not the “Carmel thing” to bother him for an autograph. His old truck from the movie “Bridges of Madison County” and the Ford Crown Victoria from “Dirty Harry” can often be viewed in the parking lot. www. missionranchcarmel.com For a complete Carmel lodging list, go to Carmel Innkeepers Association’s website: www.stayincarmel.org. Other first-rate dining options include: Casanova, originally built by Charlie Chaplin for one of his employee’s cottages, it’s now considered by many as the town’s most romantic restaurant. Call in advance if you’d like to sit at artist Vincent Van Gogh’s personal table imported from his boarding house in France. www.casanovarestaurant.com Cantinetta Luca is another personal favorite offering award winning to-die-for Northern Italian cuisine. www. cantinettaluca.com If time permits, we also suggest you might consider signing up for a three-hour local food tour led by an enthusiastic foodie. These tours are becoming very popular in many cities and this one was exceptional. www.carmelfoodtour.com Thinking of taking a romantic walk? If so, be sure to consider a stroll on Carmel’s famous beach at sunset, or take a longer hike through Point Lobos State Reserve, two miles south of town. Dazzling visual highlights will enthrall you, especially along the cliffs. www. stateparks.com/california

LA PLAYA HOTEL

FORNAIO BURLINGAME

WINE CELLAR L’AUBERGE

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

For websites that will provide additional info on events, lodging/dining choices/prices and all things Carmel-by-The-Sea go to www.carmelcalifornia.org and/or www.carmelcalifornia.com. PUBLISHER’S NOTE: Our travel team, Don the writer/ editor and Ann the photographer/researcher, head up to western British Columbia, Canada to bring our readers a personal look at Vancouver, Victoria and more as a premier vacation destination in our March edition. BELOW: LA PLAYA

BOTTOM RIGHT: PINE INN

MISSION RANCH

VALLEY LIFESTYLES MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2014

May 25, 2014

News » Bay Area |

Monterey County: A diverse and gorgeous region where the new meets the old By Ari Burack click to enlarge

ARI BURACK/SPECIAL TO THE S.F. EXAMINER

Monterey Bay is rich in natural beauty and opportunities for whale-watching, boating and more.

From the old adobe buildings and winding streets of Monterey, to the pastoral beauty of Carmel Valley, and the mountains and dramatic seaside cliffs of Big Sur, coastal Monterey County has a bit of everything.

A look at things from the water is always a fun way to get your bearings. Bounding across Monterey Bay and bouncing over ocean swells in a 33-foot, military-grade former Coast Guard inflatable speedboat, Fast Raft is a thrill ride that also comes with a message of learning about and safeguarding the ecosystem and wildlife that surrounds you. Trips can vary with weather and interest, but the craft is fast and light enough to get down to stunning Point Lobos or up to Elkhorn Slough and back in less than three hours, with plenty of sightseeing in between. It’s also maneuverable enough to maintain a safe distance from the whales, dolphins, otters, sea lions and several species of sea birds that are likely to cross your path as you navigate past rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, lighthouses, and some of the most famous and exclusive golf courses in the world. A much slower, but just as beautiful, seafaring alternative is Monterey Bay Kayaks. The winds are normally calmer in the morning and you won’t have to fight the surf as much. And you will be close enough to wildlife to hear the grunts and bellows (and smell the pungent aroma) of sea lions from a few yards away. Slip past an otter eying you warily as it cracks its breakfast on its stomach. Paddle through kelp beds or rows of ships in the marina. You can also take in some of Monterey’s history from just offshore, and even more when you return to land. Some of the stately adobe and brick homes, 19th-century remnants of Monterey’s Spanish and Mexican heritage, line city streets that curve and bend at awkward

angles, another clue to the city’s old age. A few of the buildings — such as the CooperMolera Adobe built in 1823 and the Stevenson House, a former hotel where author Robert Louis Stevenson stayed and wrote for a time — maintain lush and colorful outdoor gardens. Colton Hall, which sits next to Monterey City Hall, was the site of the California Constitution’s first writing in 1849. Dining options in Monterey include the familyrun Cibo Ristorante Italiano, which blends lowkey and upscale plus traditional Italian dishes with local ingredients. But perhaps the nicest thing at Cibo is the spirit of hospitality exemplified by owner Mario Catalano’s mom, Rosa, who at 81 still helps plate the dishes and occasionally cooks a few favorites from her native Sicily, like an off-menu pennette with marinara, swordfish and mint. Rosa greets customers with a lovely smile, sits and talks with them, and tells them to come back. For a glimmer of old Monterey with a hip, modern twist, sidle up to the bar at 1833. The twostory adobe home has been renovated inside to accommodate a restaurant and beautifully backlit bar eerily reminiscent of the one in Stanley Kubrick’s “The Shining.” You will almost definitely fare better than Jack Torrance after downing a delicious artisanal cocktail or two, or even an elaborately poured glass of absinthe. The location, with nearly two centuries of history (some of it amusing and some of it dark), also comes with its own requisite ghost stories. Just a short drive south, lovely Carmel-by-the-Sea is a cozy, upscale hamlet that has drawn artists, adventurers and entrepreneurs to its dramatic shores since the early 1900s. Now settled into the high life, it welcomes tourists to view its exquisitely and creatively designed homes, shop for art, and dine and rest in style. A guided tour with Gael Gallagher of Carmel Walks is an intriguing exploration of the town’s side streets, hidden walkways, unique architecture, colorful characters and history — by someone who truly loves the area. “This town was meant to be explored by its passageways,” Gallagher says, ducking into a tree-lined courtyard unseen from the road. The La Playa Hotel, one of Carmel’s oldest, was originally a mansion built in 1905 and renovated in 2012. It’s a charming, beautifully decorated boutique hotel in a residential neighborhood a few blocks from the business district. Narrow, intriguing corridors lead to rooms offering ocean and garden views. A short drive inland, Carmel Valley is sunny and warm and lined with picturesque hills, farms and vineyards. It’s peaceful and a great option even if you’re not made of money. The gorgeous Quail Lodge is celebrating its 50th year and has recently forgone some of its amenities to lower prices, but the spacious, immaculate California ranch and Spanish colonial-style luxury accommodations, fine dining and scenery on the 850-acre estate — complete with fountains, lakes and an 18-hole golf course — all remain. A few miles farther into the valley, the 26-acre property of Bernardus Lodge is set among vineyards in rural splendor. Elegant rooms and spa service are paired with fabulous cuisine and wines, some made by the resort’s own winery. Back down the coast, Big Sur’s hiking trails, mountains and quiet cottages are the ultimate getaway in coastal Monterey County. And you don’t have to leave comfort behind either. Set in the woods just back from the highway, Glen Oaks Big Sur has several rooms and cottages, originally built in the 1950s and updated with an eco-friendly, modern rustic theme. The Big Sur River and the second-largest redwood tree in Big Sur are located right on the property. The nearby Big Sur Roadhouse is California-style cuisine with a New Orleans accent, paired with a selection of wines, some from nearby vineyards where the cooler climate of the region is ripe for pinot noir.

Great hiking lies in every direction. One lesser-known trail, in Andrew Molera State Park just 2 miles north of Glen Oaks, takes you out to the ocean, up along the bluffs and then down a narrow path to a tiny beach, where stacks of old logs and driftwood lie on the way to the pounding surf and the sand is painted a purplish hue. On the way back north you could consider lunch or dinner in the sleepy, seaside town of Moss Landing on the county line, where a massive power plant overlooks natural waterways and marshland, old boats and antique shops. The Haute Enchilada, a restaurant and adjoining gallery, offers bold, intense Latin-inspired flavors and colors to match its art. Dishes include a vegan chile relleno mole, and crab and huitlacoche (a corn fungus) enchilada with a citrus cream sauce. It’s a treasure in an unlikely place. IF YOU GO Monterey County Where to stay: La Playa Hotel: Camino Real at Eighth Avenue, Carmel. From April to early November, rooms start at $399. www.laplayahotel.com Quail Lodge: 8205 Valley Greens Drive, Carmel Valley. Rooms from $150 to $425. www.quaillodge.com Bernardus Lodge: 415 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. Rooms from $350 to $955. www.bernardus.com Glen Oaks Big Sur: Rustic outdoors, eco-modern indoors. 47080 Highway One, Big Sur. Rooms from $225; cottages $300 to $350; cabins $275 to $550. www.glenoaksbigsur.com Where to eat: Cibo Restaurante Italiano: Dinner, cocktails and live jazz. Traditional Italian recipes in a familial atmosphere. 301 Alvarado St., Monterey. www.cibo.com Old Fisherman’s Grotto: Try the crispy fried calamari and balsamic-glazed grilled artichoke. 39 Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey. www.oldfishermansgrotto.com Bistro Abrego: The restaurant is refining its menu to include fresh, local ingredients, including a Monterey crab cake with a spicy aioli. Hotel Abrego, 755 Abrego St., Monterey. www.hotelabrego.com 1833: Food and artisanal cocktails at the former Stokes Adobe, built (you guessed it) in 1833. 500 Hartnell St., Monterey. www.restaurant1833.com Flaherty’s Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar: All kinds of seafood dishes at reasonable prices, including locally caught sand dabs, seafood tacos and a tasty lobster bisque. Sixth Avenue at Dolores Street, Carmel. www.flahertysseafood.com The Haute Enchilada: Latin-inspired cuisine and art. 7902 Moss Landing Road, Moss Landing. www.hauteenchilada.com What to do: Fast Raft: Tours leave from the pier at 32 Cannery Row, Monterey. $60 to $140 per person. www.fastraft.com Monterey Bay Kayaks: 693 Del Monte Ave., Monterey. Guided tours leave from Monterey and Elkhorn Slough in Moss Landing. $55 to $120 per person. Kayak rentals also available. www.montereybaykayaks.com Walking old Monterey: For information and maps on the many homes, museums and other sites of historical interest, visit the Monterey State Historic Park website at www.parks.ca.gov/mshp. Self-guided tours are possible, though entrance to some locations requires a guide and fee.

Monterey Bay Aquarium: The aquarium’s latest exhibit, “Tentacles,” features some of the more alien creatures of the sea – cephalopods – such as a reclusive deep sea octopus, peering almost a little too knowledgeably at you from behind glass. 886 Cannery Row, Monterey. Adults $39.95, kids $24.95. www.montereybayaquarium.org Carmel Walks: Two-hour tours Tuesday through Friday at 10 a.m.; Saturday at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Meet in the courtyard of the Pine Inn on Lincoln Street at Ocean Avenue, Carmel. $25 per person. Reservations (831) 642-2700 or www.carmelwalks.com Andrew Molera State Park: State Highway 1, 20 miles south of Carmel. Parking is available in a small lot on Highway 1 across from the entrance, or inside the park where parking is $10. www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=582 Ari Burack is a freelance writer who also blogs at http://openskylight.blogspot.com Login

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Sweet hotel turndown gifts by Irene S. Levine | October 8, 2014 | Leave a comment

Cognac Nightcap (photo credit: RiverPlace Hotel)

From whimsical to elegant, these hotel turndown gifts make for sweet dreams… Turndown service is a sweet luxury, especially when accompanied with a surprise on your pillow. To wow guests, hotels and resorts are offering locally inspired turndown amenities infused with history, culture and whimsy.

Miniature fruit pie (photo credit: Caldwell House Bed & Breakfast)

Guests at the Caldwell House Bed & Breakfast (Salisbury Mills, New York) receive homemade miniature fruit pies with locally sourced fillings. “Anyone can do a boring mint,” says co-owner Dena Finneran. “We wanted something fun and delicious when pie season is in full swing.” At Farmhouse Inn (Sonoma, California) guests find s’mores kits: house-made marshmallows, Vahlrona chocolate and crunch grahams, perfect for toasting over in-room fireplaces.

Guests at the Mandarin Oriental, New York (New York City) receive “Sweet Dreams” packages of spice bread cookies with ganache filling from Bouchon Bakery. At The Inn at Leola Village (Lancaster, Pennsylvania), guests receive “whoopee pies,” traditional Amish desserts in stamped gift boxes reading: ”Enjoy a little whoopee tonight.” Holiday guests at The Inn at Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill (Harrodsburg, Kentucky) receive simple rosemary sprigs (for remembrance) and “thank you” tags tied with red-and-white twine. At La Cantera Hill Country Resort (San Antonio, Texas), tiny “worry dolls” in hand-painted cases come with a suggestion to place them beneath the pillow for worry-free sleep.

“Trouble” or “Worry” Dolls (photo credit: La Cantera Hill Country Resort)

Native American-owned Hotel Santa Fe, The Hacienda and Spa (Santa Fe, New Mexico) offers Native American Wisdom Story Cards along with Kachina dolls made by Hopi and Zuni people. Belmond Charleston Place (Charleston, South Carolina) honors the area’s roots with a Lowcountry favorite, Benne Wafers. Sesame seeds (used for the cookies) were brought from West Africa before being planted extensively throughout the South. Guests at the spa and wellness-themed The Bungalows at Terranea (Rancho Palos Verdes, California) receive pillow gifts of bath bombs, cooling eye masks and scented massage oils. The boutique RiverPlace Hotel (Portland, Oregon) delivers an evening cognac “nightcap” with a snifter and elegant card. Chocolate never goes out of style: At the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa (Sonoma, California), VIP guests receive wine-infused dark chocolate truffles.

Newly restored La Playa Carmel by the Sea (Carmel, California) dates back to 1905 when an artist built the mansion as a gift for his wife, a member of the Ghirardelli Chocolate family. To maintain the historical link, turndown includes homemade chocolate chip cookies with milk, as well as the famous chocolates.

Ghirardelli Chocolate Chip Cookies (photo credit: La Playa Carmel by the Sea)

Guests who stay at the MSC Yacht Club, the ship-within-a-ship on the only privately owned Italian cruise line, find highly addictive Venchi gourmet chocolates (made in Turin since 1878) in their cabins each night.

IF YOU GO •

Caldwell House Bed and Breakfast

•

Farmhouse Inn

•

Mandarin Oriental, New York

•

The Inn at Leola Village

•

The Inn at Shaker Village

•

La Cantera Hill Country Resort

•

Hotel Santa Fe, Hacienda and Spa

•

Belmond Charleston Place

•

The Bungalows at Terranea

•

RiverPlace Hotel

•

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa

•

La Playa Carmel by the Sea

•

MSC Yacht Club

the star.com

JIM BYERS' TRAVEL BLOG Sat Dec 06 2014 Posted by Jim Byers, Travel at 10:41 AM

Wonderful wineries, beautiful beaches and sensational scenery in Carmel, California Carmel and Carmel Valley California are blessed with more wonders than any area should be allowed. The food and wine are superb, the hotels exceptional and the scenery - and golf - unsurpassed.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Carmel Beach is a luscious, white sand affair that goes on forever. The fact that Pebble Beach Golf Course is on one end doesn't hurt.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

The 17-Mile Drive is one of the great drives of the world. Be sure to stop at the Lone Cypress for an iconic photo. And be sure to drive all of the coastal route. The inland portion is lovely but can't compare to the ocean views.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

You don't need a convertible to enjoy the 17-Mile Drive. But it's a great way to enjoy the ride.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Carmel features lovely shops of all sorts and beautiful landscaping. Try a walking wine tour with the city's winery passport program . And be sure to stop at Hog's Breath Inn, owned by actor Clint Eastwood.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Be sure to stop off at Pebble Beach to admire the views if you take the 17-Mile Drive. This is one of the most beautiful - and best - golf courses on the planet.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

La Playa Carmel is a hotel that features fantastic views of Carmel Bay. Not to mention a pretty pool and lovely landscaping and bikes you can ride.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Rooms at Playa Carmel are large and well-appointed. They have free wine-tasting in the evening and free chocolate chip cookies and milk at night. Not to mention California sparkling wine at their fine buffet breakfast.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Carmel Valley is usually warmer and less foggy than Carmel-by-the-Sea, which is on the

ocean. Try a morning walk at Garland Ranch park for a true sense of the valley's geography.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Chateau Julien is one of dozens of fine wineries in Carmel Valley. They do great tours and their Merlots and Chardonnays are marvelous.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Bernardus Winery is another top spot in Carmel Valley, with knowledgeable staff and fantastic Monterey County Pinot Noirs you can try.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Quail Lodge is a fantastic resort in Carmel Valley. You'll find lovely landscaping and a fine golf course. Nine holes are currently under renovation but the other nine are open for play. Edgar's restaurant in the golf clubhouse serves excellent food, including a fantastic kale salad with almonds, peppers and feta cheese.

JIM BYERS PHOTO

Carmel bills itself as the most dog-friendly spot in the U.S. Quail Lodge even has Max, a Tor-Bec (Toronto-Quebec) poodle who's known as the head of p.r. - pet relations. Max'w owner, Sarah Cruse, is the hotel GM and hails from Toronto.!

FREE There’s life in the Inner West!

Local clubs for grown-ups Ingersoll’s new pop-up eatery

The last days of the Oxford Tavern

is taking over the Inner West!

le, Distributed in Leichhardt, Annanda , town Petersham, Stanmore, New Balmain, Drummoyne, Haberfield, Rozelle, Five Dock, Concord, & Summer Hill

Issue 228 | February 14 2013

WIN! MOVIE TIX:

Gloria Le Week-End Lygon Street: Si Parla Italiano

Street fashion

The best dressed in the Inner West

SKATE MATES Why chicks dig roller derby

THE ALL NEW BMW 2 SERIES COUPÉ IS COMING Get ready for the all new BMW 2 Series Coupé that is set to arrive in March. A pure manifestation of BMW distilled in its purest form, the BMW Series Coupé is the epitome if the Ulimate Driving Machine. It is performance times performance, dynamics times dynamics, design times design. It is BMW to register your interest at Canterbury BMW today.

BMW TO THE POWER OF TWO. Celebrate the arrival of BMW Series 2 at Canterbury BMW on Friday 21st March 1pm at an exclusive launch party with Autumn Carnival fashion parade. RSVP to events@canterburybmw.com.au.

Canterbury BMW 376 - 384 Canterbury Road, CANTERBURY NSW 2193. (02) 8038 7888. www.canterburybmw.com.au

LEAVE YOUR HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO

Carmel by the Sea is about a two hour drive south of San Francisco, and one of California’s most prestigious villages; a glorious place to meander amongst artisan shops and stroll along the sands of Carmel and Pebble beach. Stay at La Playa Carmel, a restored luxurious mansion built in 1905 by an artist as a gift to his wife. Known as the Grand Dame of Carmel the hotel is romantic and blows you into an era of renaissance and beauty. With stunning views of the ocean, crisp comfy beds and well-manicured grounds and gardens, the hotel is warm, homely and inviting. The complimentary breakfast is displayed in a style that suits its European provincial countryside past. Freshly picked herbs, flowers and eggs, the smell of freshly baked sour dough, delicious poached fruits, freshly squeezed juices, waffles and more, complete a sensational hotel experience. www.laplayahotel.com

Sweeping views from every room of the Mandarin Oriental

San Francisco is one of those cities you have to visit a few times to even scratch the surface of its futuristic, patriotic, fun-loving, food-focussed culture. Often compared with Sydney, Sydney-siders (especially travelling families) will feel instantly at home in San Francisco’s urban landscape, while the surrounding bay area is the perfect place to step back from the city and clock some R&R hours. With Air New Zealand’s excellent fares there is no better time to visit this home away from home. WHERE TO STAY: Mandarin Oriental. Unfortunately we don’t have any Mandarin Oriental hotels in Australia, so you may not be familiar with this luxury hotel chain. With a fan base including Kevin Spacey, Sigourney Weaver and architect I.M Pei, the Mandarin Oriental suits sophisticated jet-setters who need superior, efficient service and world class rooms. The Mandarin Oriental San Francisco does not disappoint. Located in the heart of the city on Sansome Street, all rooms have magnificent views and the Asian influenced décor instantly instils feelings of calm and harmony. With room furnishings inspired by the sea and sky, the spectacular views sit gracefully between plush chairs, a dreamy bed and an Italian marble bathroom. All itineraries are forgotten and it’s hard to leave the room at all! When you finally do reawaken, there is a bustling cocktail lounge and popular brassiere with contemporary, exquisite menus and service. From around $450 a night, this hotel is the perfect place to stay in the city. See www.mandarinoriental.com/sanfrancisco for more info and special offers.

driving projects in research labs, biotech companies, social media organisations and entrepreneurial start ups, the gallery celebrates the profound impact technology has had on its artists. Artists have explored themes such as “nanofacturing” (matter being anatomically manufactured with nanotechnology), Afrofuturistic music and feminist cyborgs running genetics labs. A tour of Alcatraz is vital when visiting San Francisco. The award winning sound tour ensures you experience life as a prisoner and you are transported to a world of gangs, discipline, sadness and longing. Allow about 3 hours for the whole tour and book in advance as the tours sell out ($30 per adult). A unique and highly recommended way to get an overview of San Francisco is to hop on an amphibian. San Francisco’s Ride the Duck tour is blaringly fun and fabulous. There are heaps of jokes and the locals clap and cheer you along. Yes you might feel like a bit of a tourist, but the soundtrack alone helps you abandon any shame. As you sing along to the Village People crossing construction sites and builders enacting YMCA, this is the only way to experience the real San Francisco. Duck central is at Fisherman’s Wharf, tickets are $35 per adult (www.ridetheducks. com).

AROUND SAN FRANCISCO BAY AND BEYOND: Sausilito is a seaside town about 20 minutes away from San Francisco by ferry. Visiting this town is a must; not only do you have to depart from the historic ferry terminal (where you can buy fresh local berries, organic meats and local sustainable wine), you get to enjoy a delightful village only a few miles from the city.

Sea and sky inspired decor at the Mandarin Oriental

WHERE TO EAT: Waterbar sits proudly at the base of the Bay Bridge and is the perfect spot to soak up views of a working harbour. Popular for its seafood and $1 oysters between 11.30am and 5.30pm, Waterbar focuses on local produce and sustainably caught fish. Hakkasan, which is headed by Chef Ho Chee Boon who was awarded a Michelin star within nine months of opening his New York restaurant, is also worth a try. The menu includes sensational vegetable dumplings and crispy duck salad with pomegranate pine nuts and shallots. Complemented with a boutique selection of tea, Hakkasan has the perfect template for contemporary Asian dining.

By far the best place to stay is The Inn Above Tide. This hotel has so many great reviews on Trip Advisor with patrons exclaiming “Perfect”, “Our favourite”, “Treated like royalty”, and all of it is true. Every room has a sweeping view of the bay where you can practically dive into the ocean. This hotel is distinguished by detail. Every effort, no matter how small, has been made to positively contribute to a memorable experience. It will eclipse anywhere you have ever stayed. Guaranteed. Bvlgari toiletries, complimentary wine and cheese aperitifs, fluffy gowns, binoculars to observe the sea life, perfect bed with dreamlike pillows, sumptuous complimentary buffet breakfast that includes home made pear bread and local organic yoghurt with freshly picked berries, crackling cosy fire, a shower head that makes you

Finally, Roka Akor is a newly established Japanese-style steakhouse that specialises in grills and sushi. Greeted earnestly by the eight chefs delicately creating masterful meals around a giant korubata grill – there is an instant warm and friendly vibe.

WHAT TO DO: The de Young Museum has both classic and contemporary exhibitions – the latter have included Bvlgari and Gaultier. A commanding building with gorgeous gardens worth exploring, the de Young Museum is a wonderful way to experience both American and European art for just $10 entry. Yerba Buena Centre for the Arts is a multi-disciplinary contemporary art space that goes above and beyond most contemporary art spaces. As a region that is obsessed with 16

Dive into the ocean at the Inn Above Tide at Sausilito

feel like you are in a luxurious heaven of rain, deep pile carpet that caresses your feet, humongous bath, private deck, attentive staff and everything else you could think of that would be included in a luxury retreat. www.innabovetide.com

Recline in an artist’s mansion at La Playa Carmel

If you get tired of the beaches, why not venture west to some under-discovered wine trails in the Tri-Valley? Also known for superb wineries, golf, rolling hills and discount shopping outlets. Hotels include the San Ramon Marriott, which was warm and welcoming after some pretty hectic travelling. Efficient service and intelligent, responsive staff make for a pleasant stay. It is one of those honest hotels where nothing is too difficult and staff are well-trained in managing guest relations. The rooms are spacious and clean with surprisingly large bathrooms fitting a full size deep bath, plus good water pressure and coconut scented toiletries. The highlight was the king-size bed. After a long hard day it is so comforting to recline on a really beautiful bed. www.marriott.com

CISCO KIDS:

Families can find plenty to do in San Francisco. The Bay Area Discovery Museum in Sausalito is set on an old army barracks site of 7.5 acres and has the spectacular backdrop of the Golden Gate Bridge. Focussed on igniting and advancing children’s creativity the centre thrills and delights children up to 12 years with tidal pools, mega blocks, ship wrecks, mazes, tunnels, art studios with fluorescent paint, slides, balls, puppets and more. Entry fee is a bargain at $11. www.baykidsmuseum.org The Children’s Creativity Museum has claymation, animation, singing and production studios plus innovation labs and imagination labs, the museum is a great creative hub and really gets kids focussed on innovative projects. $11 entry. www. creativity.org The California Academy of Sciences houses a planetarium, aquarium, natural history museum, 2.5 acre living roof and wall insulated with recycled blue jeans. Informative exhibits on seismic shifts, insect evolution and underwater diversity mean the Academy is a fun learning environment that will keep the kids entertained for hours. Adults $29.95, and $19.95 for ages 4 to 11. www.calacademy.org Also check out the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Formally a cannery, the conservation area harbours an abundance of marine life. The museum has remarkable interactive exhibits with live feedings, special seasonal guests like seahorses and loggerhead sea turtles, and is easy to navigate and explore. Children will be mesmerised by some of the jellies! Adults $39.95, and $24.95 for ages 3 to 12. www.montereybayaquarium.org

GETTING THERE: Air New Zealand flies frequently via Auckland, to San Francisco, with daily flights during peak travel times. In Economy, seats are ergonomically designed. The next class up is Premium Economy, which affords extra space, generous leg room and seat recline. Business Premier allows for recline into a fully flat bed and make the 14-hour flight seem like a 5-hour flight. Business Class travellers are also able to visit the Koru Lounge, a tremendous way to wait for a flight with full bar, delicious coffee and cool inner west celebrities like Benji Marshall! The food on Air New Zealand is unbelievably good. With a menu designed by award-winning chef Peter Gordon, dishes like seared salmon with saffron rice, feel like they are straight out of a restaurant kitchen, not a compartment 14 kilometres above the sea. The inclusion of New Zealand’s most famous wines ensure a truly satisfying culinary experience. For more information visit airnewzealand.com.au