Analysis of Trench Coats

Trench Coats

- Diya Ahuja

What?

“From rainy Scotland in the 1820s, to the WWI trenches and later Hollywood (via Burberry and Aquascutum), the trench coat as we know it today has a heritage far beyond the catwalk”.(Vogue encyclopaedia: The history of the trench coat, 2019) Trench Coats are evolved from waterproof coats called “Mack”(Charles Macintose and Thomas Hancock) in 1820’s to providing utility in WW1, and then were further modified by two brands, Aquascutum and Burberry, with improved fabric quality to cater to the needs of the people.

History of Burberry’s Trench Coat • Burberry: Burberry got its Trench Coat patented in 1912. Its innovative design featured a belted closure without buttons and was made from gabardine.

Fact: Garbardine is a revolutionary fabric that Thomas Burberry invented in 1879. Polished and practical, a beautiful weatherproof cotton that remains at the heart of Burberry.

The trench coat evolved from the Tielocken coat, patented by Thomas Burberry in 1912.

A simple yet refined shape that adapted over the years to become the instantly recognisable Burberry trench coat. (The Trench Coat | Burberry, n.d.)

Brands • Aquascutum •Burberry • Maison Margiela • Celine •Gucci •Armani •Jack & Jones •Hermes •Bottega Veneta •Mango •Fendi •Zara •H&M •Louis Vuitton

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4 1: Zara 2: Alexander Mcqueen 3: Alexander Mcqueen 4: Burberry

Evolution through the years Waterproof Coats (”Mack”) 1820s Charles Macintosh and Thomas Hancock Technology

Aquascutum(Water-shield) 1853 John Emary Improved Raincoats

Burberry (Fabric: Gabardine) 1879 Thomas Burberry Light and Breathable

It was worn by officers during WWI and WWII, but it began to shed its most overt military utilitarianism in the 1940s, as it began to be romanticized by Hollywood.

Replacing the image of the officer with that of the fast-talking journalist, slick gangster, guarded detective, dashing spy and seductive femme fatale, Hollywood helped the trench coat enter a more fashionable wardrobe.(Vogue Encyclopedia: The History of Trench Coat, 2019) According to a New York Times article from 1917, trench coat demand was high not just for local militaries, but for civilians as well. Its smart look was ideal for businessmen and women alike, increasing its appeal.

In the public sphere, actors like Humphrey Bogart made the trench coat and fedora look the standard for a Hollywood film-noir protagonist. (Trench Coat History: From the Battlefield to Hollywood He Spoke Style, n.d.)

Picked up by Hollywood Casablanca 1942 Breakfast at Tiffany’s 1961

Evolution through the years

Jackie Kennedy

Kate Bush

1970

1978

2003

Angelina Jolie

Kate Middleton

Emma Stones

2012

2010

2011

Claudia Schiffer Victoria Beckham

Sarah Jessica Parker

Kiera Knightley

Blake Lively

Kim Kardashian

Burberry’s Catwalk

2014

2016

2006

2007

2008

2017

Evolution through the years

Burberry Fall

2018

Maison Margiela

2018

Celine

Mango

Burberry

Maison Margiela

2018

2018

2019

FW 2018-19

Trench Coat gained its popularity (started becoming cool) when Hollywood started romaniticizing them. Among its wearers are a number of famous political leaders, actors, and literary figures, including politicians Winston Churchill (1874–1965) and Ronald Reagan (1911–), actors Humphrey Bogart (1899–1957) and Katharine Hepburn (1907–2003), writer George Bernard Shaw (1856–1950), and General Norman Schwarzkopf (1934–). Fictional characters who have become identified with the trench coat include Holly Golightly, the heroine of the novel and film Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), and Peter Sellers' bumbling Inspector Clouseau from the Pink Panther comedy film series (1964–82). (Trench Coats | Encyclopedia.com, n.d.)

Analysis The trench coats cater to all factors, from military to fashion, including both functionality and innovation. Who knew that it would make its way all up to here? Trench Coats can adapt to any roles. The shift from just the functionality came after 1940’s where it was taken up by the Hollywood. From there, trench coats have been modified in terms of fashion to cater to the changing generations. “Today, the trench coat has been revisited by designers such as Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and is still an enduring signature for its originator, Burberry. Available in various styles, colour combinations, lengths, and with or without many of its original details” as stated by (Krueger in 2019.

The reason trench coats came on peak with full force in 2018 was beacause it was Christopher Bailey’s last show as the creative director of Burberry and the theme for the show was “Time: about past, present and the future”.

Thank You

By Sophie Glover