ISSUE ONE |2020
Price: Rs. 150
ECHO F A S H I O N | C U LT U R E | L I V I N G
The current situation that the world is facing, the very element of touch has started to come under threat.
DISCONNECTION Pg. 96 We asked the shoppers to stop; instead they set up shop!
Switch TO SUSTAINABILTY Pg. 74 With people staying in at their houses, loungewear becomes the new workwear.
Loungewear: new workwear Pg. 118
1 2 7 5 4 0 4 8 3 8 3 3 8 2 9 2 0 2 2 2 2
ECHO
2
ISSUE ONE |2020
3
ECHO
4
ISSUE ONE |2020
5
ECHO
6
ISSUE ONE |2020
7
ECHO
ECHO is a quaterly, 136 page print magazine that collects ideas from all around the world in terms of Fashion, Culture and Living. Printed in India, each issue is filled with playlists, specially curated for our subscribers along with articles that cover the latest aspects of what is going around us. Publication Design by Diya Ahuja and Rashi Goel 8
ISSUE ONE |2020
ECHO
ECHO 9
ECHO
10
ISSUE ONE |2020
SUBSCRIBE TO ECHO Echo is published four times a year. To subscribe to our magazine, visit www.Echo.com/SUBSCRIBE or mail us at subscribe@echo.com
ECHO is a quaterly, 136 page print magazine that collects ideas from all around the world in terms of Fashion, Culture and Living. Printed in India, each issue is filled with playlists, specially curated for our subscribers along with articles that cover the latest aspects of what is going around us.
11
ECHO
EDITOR’S LETTER Diya Ahuja Dear Readers, ECHO is a quaterly, 136 page print magazine thst collects ideas from all around the world in terms of Fashion, Culture and Living. The first issue Of ECHO talks about every aspect from the perspective of the current situation that we’re in right now. To embrace the new normal, the content that we’ve curated, covers everything from skincare remedies to The Quarantine Edition lists. Our cover story gives an insight as to how sustainable fashion is the need of the hour and how each of our choices can make a huge difference altogether. We hope that you resonate with ECHO as much as we did while making this.
12
ISSUE ONE |2020
13
ECHO
Editor Diya Ahuja
Creative Direction Lori Pathak, Jessica Arora
Publication Design
Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel
Contributing Writers Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel, Lori Pathak, Jessica Arora, Sanaya Dutt
Contributing Photographers Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel, Lori Pathak, Jessica Arora, Sanaya Dutt
SUBSCRIBE Echo is published four times a year. To subscribe to our magazine, visit www.Echo.com/SUBSCRIBE or mail us at subscribe@ echo.com 14
Customer Care
+919891088522 media@shadesofindia.com
Diya Ahuja
E C H O
/
T H E F I R S T I S S U E
ECHO
16
Diya Ahuja has a keen interest in Graphic Design and Art Direction in fashion. Her work is usually minimalistic and therefore she’s learning and exploring different forms to expand her style.
ISSUE ONE |2020
Jessica Arora
Rashi Goel has a keen interest in graphics and art direction. With different interests, Rashi wants to explore everything that’s out there.
Sanaya Dutt
Lori Pathak
Rashi Goel
Contributors
Lori is a diligent girl with a creative flair, and interested in creating Graphics in Fashion. She wants to explore the various aspects the subject has to offer and is up for any challenges.
17
Jessica is a blend of creative and business mind. Ambition and positivity is her mantra to a successful life.
With a keen eye for colour palletes, Sanaya Dutt is all about styling, art and creative direction. A model and entrepreneur, her new mission has made her explore the world of slow fashion and sustainable living.
ECHO
18
ISSUE ONE |2020
20 Green Avenue Road, Vasant Kunj New Delhi
Customer Care
Mon-Sat: 10:00 am - 6:00 pm info@bodice.co.in
19
23
ECHO Jam
26
Plants in Indoor Spaces
29 30
The Kitchen Salon
23
32 34
E-Commerce, Only Esscape
40
Sustainable Swimwear
46
FASHION
CONTENTS
Dying Art of Crochet
Alternate Canvas
50
Crafty Business
56
Masks: Utility or Fashion?
62
Old Memories, New Keepers
68
Death of the Party Dress
72
Virtual Models: Boon or Bane
Editor’s Letter: Pg. 12 MastHead: Pg. 14 Contributors: Pg 16-17
78
Switch to Sustainability
Confining Nuptials
94
Freedom Fabric makes a comeback
100
Disconnection
104
IndiGenius Labels: The New Game
86
110 112
A Lover’s Discourse
114
LIVING
CULTURE
88
Isolation
116
Unfiltered: A Journey
122
Pessimism and Optimism
126
Loungewear: New Workwear
ECHO
22
ISSUE ONE |2020 ECHO Jam
Scan to Jam!
• Gooey: Glass Animals • Yes I’m Changing: Tame Impala • Renee: SALES • Black Mambo: Glass Animals • Love/Paranoia: Tame Impala • Your Shirt: Chelsea Cutler • Stand in Line: BANFF • Gamesofluck: Parcels • Becoming the Warm Jets: Current Joys • Moonchild: The F16s • Nostalgic Feel: Bedroom • Space Song: Beach House
23
ECHO
24
ISSUE ONE |2020
Jaipur
Customer Care
25
Mon-Fri: 11:00 am to 7:00 pm 0141-402398 shop@kichu.co.in
Capsule Wardrobe in 5 steps By Jessica Arora A capsule wardrobe is a concise, curated selection of timeless clothing. It can vary from person to person based on differing lifestyles, but the best pieces are the kind that can be worn at work, during cocktail hour, and dressed down on the weekend. Here are 5 easy steps to create a capsule wardrobe. 1.Select a base color: Choose either Black or Navy as the base color. 2.Add Neutral Basic Essentials: Select a few neutral-color core closet essentials in white, Ivory, Tan, Beige, Camel and Gray. 3.Select an Accent Color: Pick one, two or three accent colors and add a few clothes with your accenr colors to the capsule. 4.Add Patterned Items and Layers: Add one or two patterned clothes(stripes, floral, plaid etc.) and add a few layering items, If weather permits(jackets, blazer, cardigan, coat etc). 5.Add shoes and Accessories: Add a few shoes in neutral colors or accent colors, then choose accessories like bags, jewelry and scarves to complete the outfit.
Jessica Arora
ISSUE ONE |2020
27
ECHO
28
ISSUE ONE |2020
Benefits of Houseplants By Jessica Arora
Mother in Laws Tongue plantpapaya.co.uk
When interior spaces are embellished with houseplants, they not just add greenery, These living organisms interact with human bodies, minds and homes in ways that enhance the quality of life. Indoor plants don’t just look good, they make people around them feel good mentally and physically, too. The most beneficial properties are: 1.Releasing Water: Plants like: Mother-in-law’s tongue, Rubber plant, Spider plant and many more. (Available on: amazon.in) 2.Purifying Air Some of the air purifying plants are: Areca palms, Weeping Fig, ZZ Plant and many more. Available on: FernsandPetals.com
zz PlantAnselandivy.com
3.Improving Health Plants which are very known to improve health are Money plant, English Ivy, Boston Fern and Golden Ferns and many more. Available on: ugaoo.com
Peace Lily Getspruceup.com
29
ECHO
The Kitchen Salon By Lori Pathak Staying at home shouldn’t be a reason why your skin should lose its charm. Who doesn’t long for glowing, radiant skin? 1.Lemon-Banana-Purple Tea Using purple tea as a DIY face mask is just one of the many things you can do to take advantage of everything it can do for the skin. Purple tea works wonders and so does this recipe. 2.The Organic Banana Face Mask This tropical face mask will give your skin such a health, natural-looking glow, and it’s also designed to be gentle enough on all skin types. 3.Yogurt and honey face mask You don’t need to spend megabucks on facials or stock up on scrubs to achieve super-smooth and supple skin. 4.Lemon Face Masks A facial that both exfoliates and moisturizes. It not only helps in brightening the skin tone, but also treats many other skin related problems. 5.Banana face mask If you have mild to moderate acne, you might want to incorporate this mask into your regular routine. Bananas are packed with vitamin A, which promotes skin-cell turnover and helps pores stay clean. And while the turmeric powder wards off acne-causing bacteria, the baking soda absorbs the excess oil in your skin.
Lori Pathak 30
ISSUE ONE |2020
Customer Care +917700907447 info@mishodesigns.com
31
ECHO
FASH 34
E Commerce, Only Esscape
40
Sustainable Swimwear
46
Alternate Canvas
50
Crafty Business
56
Masks: Utility or Fashion?
62
Old Memories, New Keepers
68
Death of the Party Dress
72
Virtual Models: Boon or Bane
78
Switch to Sustainability
32
ISSUE ONE |2020
HION
Stuck in houses, experimental makeup becomes the new therapy.
ALTERNATE CANVAS Pg. 46 33
ECHO
E - Commerce: Only Escape There’s no doubt that the COVID-19 pandemic has added to business challenges around the world, regardless of size, location, or funding. It has slowed down sales for businesses across various industries. Especially fashion and apparel, that lies under the non-essentials category. By Jessica Arora We live in a time where innovation has entered each section of civilization, from everyday living, governance and health care services to the retail business, the web has become a centre mechanism for the movement and exchange of information between individuals, groups, and organizations. E-commerce has become the fastest growing trend, where traditional retailing
34
is rapidly transforming from brick and mortar stores to online retail stores. Given the way that we shop is changing, it has never been more important for retailers to get online. Although no business has been unscathed by the pandemic, those that are suffering the most are smaller startups that may not have the capital or reserves to stay afloat and companies that relied heavily on faceto-face interactions, like hair and
ISSUE ONE |2020
Add a hint of classic luxury with these beautiful pair of earrings.
35
ECHO
Photographed by: Jessica Arora Product Styling by: Jessica Arora
36
ISSUE ONE |2020
nail salons, small fashion labels and small jewellery stores.
Shivan Aggarwal, Creative Director and Founder of ANI clothing, Delhi, a brand that specializes in ready-to-wear, which was launched during lockdown said, “The transition and dependency of the world of technology made every industry realize the utter importance of the same!
As local and state governments issue shelterin-place orders, asking residents to remain home for all but essential errands, businesses — especially small local businesses all over India are facing difficult decisions. Japneet Sarla, an associate in Sarla Creations, Delhi, a brand which specializes in luxury women’s attires exclaimed, “The online process has been working on an average speed. There are various reasons. One being that when you start the business on any social media platform, it is not audience generic at the first place. So we get inquiries from people who expect cheaper rates and prices whereas we deal in luxury clothing.”
With very less brands, providing a suitable fast fashion production along with partially being sustainable, I decided to launch a ready to wear women’s brand during covid.” She further explained that The main purpose of launching this during a lean time in the industry was to take advantage of people checking their phones and digital market the brand intensively. There’s no better time as people are on their phones 24/7 during lockdown, for her every Instagram hashtag, line, picture matters. ANI Clothing is not a luxury brand, people preferred buying casual clothes during the lockdown too, which is why they were able to survived!. As for her it was a cherry on top that they constantly ran promotions and incentives for them to not decrease their purchases.
Japneet further explains that it was not easy to target the audience base they required. Whereas they have benefited in terms of their existing clients who weren’t able to visit the store, but the clients are ordering more comparatively, because the world’s going digital and they are allured by their posts and newly created online presence. Quoting The Economic Times, in an article published on Apr 25, 2020, titled “Survival strategies for businesses during COVID-19 lockdown” where writer Roma Priya explains, “It has become challenging for most businesses to keep their financial wheels turning during the lockdown period due to less revenue churn and the general uncertainty in the global financial environment.”
Aavriti Jain, The brainchild of Dhora India, A brand which offers a unique signature style that is bold, contemporary and inspired by the province of Rajasthan, India said, “I suppose we are still in that phase of surviving through this pandemic as an industry and as a country. This slowing down has made us rethink and pause on several issues.” She added that she only wishes to become
37
ECHO
will be the sales.
relevant and conscious with the future to come. With an optimistic attitude she also added that the only solution for now is to thrive and stay put.
These are difficult times, and the newage, consumer is choosing to do their bit in giving back to society. Fashion and apparel brands will need to look into what their targeted audience cares about the most and work accordingly. This helps them create a positive impression on their customers and also do their bit for society.
Huma Zaidi, an associate in Diamella, Delhi, a brand which specializes in Precious Metal Jewellery, exclaimed, “To be honest, we, like others, are still struggling to survive online since this pandemic shut the stores. This has affected not only us, but we believe, everyone irrespective of the industry. Being a brand which specializes in precious metals, it is even more difficult to gain trust online and build a clientele.” Huma further exclaimed joyfully, “However, time has taught us online tactics too & we’re working on it. We hope situations ease things for everyone.”
Shoppers are still accepting the new normal. That’s why their spending habits have been changing week after week. It’s not just consumer behaviour that your fashion and apparel brand needs to contemplate. Brands also need to identify what products are shoppers looking for and using. The closer they are to selling what the shoppers need, the more likely they are to purchase from the brand.
The changing shopper behaviour is reflecting in a way that being homebound and with very few places to go, this new consumer that online fashion and apparel retailers are targeting, is spending more time on their mobile devices. It’s a good idea to move past just mobile-web ready online stores to setting up local apps for your store. The easier it is for a shopper to browse through your products, create wish lists and make purchases, the higher
*
Consumer behaviour is still changing. But the one thing that is clear from how even the restrictions on lockdowns are opening, is that digital is the way to go. For fashion and apparel retailers who have been under stricter lockdowns and restrictions, the only way to tide over the pandemic is moving closer to the demands of the shopper.
*
38
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
39
ECHO
40
ISSUE ONE |2020
Swimming in Sustainability Sustainable swimwear is the new Summer combo for 2020 By Sanaya Dutt As the call for sustainable fashion echoes far and wide, the industry has been quick to resolve the various issues that revolved around the pollution caused due to the vast manufacture of fast fashion collections. “When we think about pollution caused by the fashion industry, the only thing that strikes us is the problem of clothes ending up in landfills, when in real life there is so much more than meets the eye.” says Sneha
41
Sharma, the owner of a second-hand store, Bottom Drawer Vintage based in Goa. “ I used to source a lot of swim wear from local flea markets and vendors to curate collections for my page. As I got order after order, I realized that the market for swimwear is huge but and I didn’t know much about it. Out of sheer curiosity I sat down to do some research and stumbled upon mountains worth of information
ECHO
forms of life present underwater.
of how bad the current process of making swimwear is for the environment”.
The industry and its geniuses have been quick to respond to this threat. One such genius brand includes PA.ANI. PA.ANI is an Indian brand dedicated to creating 100% sustainable swimwear. “We at PA.ANI realized that fashion is not only the cause of pollution, it can also be its solution. All our swimwear apparel is made by recycling old and out of use nets used for fishing.”
The use of polyblend fabrics like spandex and other synthetic materials pose a huge risk to our environment, especially our water lands. These fabrics shed 11 times more micro fibre than cotton-based blends after every wash. Micro fibres are extremely small fibrous particles of fabric that ween away from the fabric weave after every wash.
Using a chemical process to break down the net fibre and reconstruct it into fabric, PA.ANI recycles almost 15O kgs of waste net per swimsuit. “It is our mission to be ethical, eco-friendly and sustainable. “With its minimal and clean aesthetic, PA.ANI is a perfect example of a brand taking control of its narrative by changing the way fashion is perceived in the world.
They are small enough to pass through meshes and sieves and usually escape into our environment through the water that is thrown out after it has been used to create the garment. Once out in the water, these micro fibres put the existing marine life into grave danger. A recent study found tangled masses of micro fibres inside the abdominal tracks of fish, turtles and other
*
*
42
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
Art: Anushka Kumar Photographed by: Dhruv Prakash Styling: Sanaya Dutt
43
ECHO
44
ISSUE ONE |2020
45
ECHO
ALTERNATE CANVAS - Diya Ahuja
46
ISSUE ONE |2020
47
Art: Divyata Pal Photographed by: Diya Ahuja Art Direction: Diya Ahuja
ECHO
48
Art: Divyata Pal Photographed by: Diya Ahuja Art Direction: Diya Ahuja
ISSUE ONE |2020
Times like these, open doors to creativity. People all around the world are doing whatever they can, to make themselves happy. Make-up is just another medium. There’s no particular path to a perfect make-up look now. Graphic lines, abstract patterns, rhinestones as embellishments for the eyes, the list goes on and on. People have literally started to consider this as a new form of self-expression. Every day brings a new mood and a new style to explore. Now that people have nowhere to go, exploring different styles to express themselves is the new trend.
Art: Divyata Pal Photographed by: Diya Ahuja
49
Crafty Business The Struggle of small businesses and their efforts to keep their business and their ‘extended family’ keep going during this pandemic. By Lori Pathak The pandemic has hustled a large population’s lives and affected the fashion industry to its core. The ‘kaarigars’ of the fashion industry and their problems have gone unnoticed by the people in power. Their struggle for survival did not catch the eyes of the general public as well. During the nationwide lockdown, some had the privilege of working from
home, while others had nothing on their plate. This industry, which employs a massive number of artisans, tailors, and embroiderers, witnessed a tough time, from the cancellation of the fashion week in Delhi to pulling shutters on many stores and factories. Smaller designers, PR firms amidst others have been pushed to the brink of closures, while consumers re-examine
ISSUE ONE |2020
Artisans make designs on the clothes by hand and then the machines fill the design.
51
ECHO
Source: Yash Miyani
52
ISSUE ONE |2020
their relationship with their belongings. However, fashion designers make sure that their extended families are not left in a lurch when the economy is collapsing, and every moment is a cliffhanger.
Group based in Surat has similar views, “Sir asked us to stay at the factory itself, but due to strict inspection and Covid guidelines we were forced to vacate the premises.” He had no other choice than returning to his home town. When he was not able to find a mode of transport and did not have enough money to buy expensive tickets, he decided to walk to Uttar Pradesh.
Quoting the Entertainment Times, in an article published on April 12, 2020, titled “Fashion industry unites for its karigars and vendors with relief work” writer Divya Kaushik, and Rishabh Deb wrote, “Sabyasachi Mukherjee revealed he had sent all of his workers on indefinite leave, and they will continue to collect their salaries for as long as possible. Anita Dongre has set up a Rs 1.5 crore medical fund to support smallscale vendors, self-employed artisans, and non-medical insurance partners.” But these are known designers who came out to help, but the workers from small scale manufacturing units had a different say in the topic.
Even workers who were working in their hometown had to face multiple problems. Kishan Tiwari, a Chikankari embroiderer in a small-scale workshop, Zeenat Chikankari centre, expresses his situation by saying, “Working in a small-scale workshop has its own drawbacks, ma’am tried to pay us but we never received full salary. We had to adjust in whatever we got.” He further talks about how other NGOs helped him and others in his area by providing food. He was not the only one; other workers suffered the same fate.
Sanjay Mishra, 34-year-old embroiderer from Pinal Creations based in Surat says, “Sir was very helpful in the beginning, he gave us full salary and helped us return to our hometown. Once we returned, he stopped sending the salary and has not yet informed about the opening of the unit.” Though the owner was paying them initially and helped everyone return, he now withdrew his help due to low income. When the artisans need the money and a job, the owner cannot guarantee them about it.
Though many designers and owners could not help their workers because of lack of money, even when they wanted to help, they couldn’t as small businesses are not in a position to process structured paperwork to get bank funding, which results in the closure of these businesses. Hence to prevent that, they stopped helping the workers and are still not particular about when they will reopen, creating financial problems for the workers. Some owners tried to do everything they could. From providing shelters to food,
Saqib, a 28-year-old tailor from Sanskar
53
ECHO
they stood with their workers throughout the lockdown. Usman, a 30-year-old tailor from Bela Creations in Lucknow, said, “Besides paying our wages, ma’am kept additional supplies at home if we ran low of ours. She’s been talking to us regularly, reassuring us, making sure we don’t fall victim to fake information and rumours about the pandemic. Her everyday routine now is regular video calls to uplift our spirits and keep track of our essential supplies.” Further, he adds that when workers were away from their family, during such a crisis talking to the owner helped them and encouraged them to stay, instead of walking on roads.
Gupta, and Manish Malhotra to be aired on Discovery Plus and TLC lifestyle channels from August 17, as they reveal their lives and learnings under lockdown. The episodes’ highlight is a symbolic creation of a face mask, conceptualized and crafted by the designers, with materials available in their homes. The five designs reflect the spirit of Indian indigenous crafts. From Dongre’s Pichhwai artwork and Mishra’s tribute to hand block printing to Gupta’s digital rendering of Pattachitra scroll paintings and more, the designs are dedicated to crafting practices and the societies that hold them alive. Not only the project’s aim to get consumer’s attention was achieved, but the sales also helped the pandemic struck artisans. All profits from the purchases were given to seven NGOs associated with GiveIndia, which provide relief to weavers, handloom workers, and ancillary artisans spread nationwide.”
Not only designers were helping their workers, but fashion magazines also took the initiative. Condé Nast India launched ‘Behind The Mask,’ a ground-breaking multi-faceted campaign to raise awareness of our craft families’ public safety and economic hardship. Vogue India and GQ India are coming together for the first time in a multimedia partnership with Myntra for a six-part video series featuring some of India’s leading names in fashion design, as they unmask their creative self.
Though many people from the industry are working together to help the artisans, no one can change the fact that many new designers and small manufacturing units suffered a significant loss, resulting in the closure of them. The craftsmen working for them will be unemployed, even the ones which are not closed will need time to replenish. When the situation is normal, these artisans will need financial stability, which no one can guarantee.
Quoting from Vogue, in an article published on August 13, 2020, titled “Everything you need to know about Behind The Mask, a Vogue + GQ initiative” writer Garima Gupta wrote “Each episode, entirely shot and produced remotely, follows Anita Dongre, Tarun Tahiliani, Rahul Mishra, Gaurav
*
*
54
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
55
New Delhi
ECHO
Modish Necessity Face Mask: Accessory or Necessity ? By Rashi Goel
Who could have known that face masks would become the most remarkable fashion accessory turn up in the year 2020? This pandemic has affected various things all around the world. Earlier, whenever people used to head out, they did a quick three-step check to see if they got their wallet, car/ home keys, and phone. Ever since the pandemic, this three-step check has
upgraded to four-step check. People’s mind has been trained to make sure you’re wearing a face mask when going out.
56
Wearing a mask is crucial now. Keeping ourselves protected is a must but that doesn’t mean that people can’t protect themselves in style. From designer to a normal person everyone is craving for uniqueness and variation in their face
ISSUE ONE |2020
Illustrated by: Rashi Goel Pearl Academy, 2020
57
ECHO
Illustrated by: Rashi Goel Pearl Academy, 2020
58
ISSUE ONE |2020
Fashion statements have completely changed because masks have now become a great accessory. But with the changing time, the situation has changed so much that people have brought a touch of fashion even in this pandemic time. “It is essential to make them a fashion statement to raise awareness and make them more widely accepted. If masks could be worn as an accessory to complement our outfits, mask-wearing could become more engaging” adds Katyal.
mask, designers started experimenting with different designs, patterns and colours to create face masks. “Seeing this unprecedented condition, wearing of Masks has become a bare necessity” says Ishita Chaudhary, aged 28, a Delhi-based Lawyer. Facemasks have become an essential during the coronavirus outbreak and now the fashion world is making it trendy, from boring monotones to stylish designs. “Even if you are turning out of home for a minute. It may not be 100% protectable but with whatever means it is for the safety of oneself & for others too.” She adds.
It is easy to understand the demand for face masks in COVID-19. Many famous brands and labels realize that the face masks are here to stay, and they are trying to capitalize on this newly introduced fashion accessory. “From matching masks with wedding attires to same print masks, diamond masks to designers masks, from cartoon masks for kids to name printed masks for business units. Hell a lot of varieties have now turned up in the market. People are now usingthe masks to build up their brand image & for brand promotions,” said Chaudhary.
People are being cautious and safe with a little pinch of fashion. They are evolving according to the demands of nature. Variations are a part of evolving so we humans are following the suit. “More than a necessity, today it has become an accessory,” says Chesta Katyal, aged 24, Owner of Encanto Salon, Delhi. The mask as a product has grabbed a lot of attention suddenly. “It was more of a necessity when we are using those surgical masks called N95. From a precautionary thing, it has completely turned into a fashion statement” claims Chaudhary.
It doesn’t matter what your face mask looks like, where you got it, or how you made it, wearing a functional one is all that matters. Since COVID-19 isn’t going away any time soon, we just have to go along with it.
“Nowadays, most people are taking it as a forced necessity as they are either wearing it because of the fear of challans, or people around will pinpoint or just for the sake of wearing it (below nose or over chin- which is completely baseless and ruins its very purpose). Moreover, with multiple options around, necessity is turning to a fashion accessory.” says Kartik, 25, Designer at Odhni.
*
“Before the pandemic too, there were brands selling masks that existed. There will be demand in the market when schools and colleges reopen.But unless the disease is 100% gone, it’s going to remain a necessity and brands are going to earn, so they’ll make a statement out of masks only”says Mehlr Kalra, aged 26, Delhi-based Photographer.
* 59
*
ECHO
60
ISSUE ONE |2020
61
ECHO
Art: Poorna Dixit Photographed by: Diya Ahuja Art Direction: Diya Ahuja
62
ISSUE ONE |2020
Old Memories, New Keepers With people picking out clothes from their grandparent’s closet, vintage is becoming the new classic. By Diya Ahuja Vintage clothing is more than just a trend. It is something that connects us with a lot more history than we can even think of. Quoting the Business of Fashion, in an article published on March 5, 2020, titled, “Inside the secret world of Vintage Fashion Scouting”, writer, MC Nanda wrote, “The demand for vintage and thrift clothing has risen in recent years
due to the environmental concerns as well as the nostalgia boom that has Gen Z and Millennial consumers looking to the fashion of their(or their parent’s) youth”.
63
Ananya Agarwal, a 22-year-old student, based in New Delhi says, “Vintage fashion to me, is the feeling of familiarity. It has the right amount of nostalgia and so many stories to pass onto different
ECHO
“Vintage clothing is an emotion that brings a sense of joy, Although it came into the spotlight in the 1960s, we have gradually seen it evolve to become a lifestyle choice. Vintage fashion primarily stands for upcycled products and is one of the most sustainable practices to follow if you’re a conscious customer”.
generations”. Sarees have been passing on from one generation to another. It gives them the freedom to play around in terms of one’s style. The feeling of owning something which talks about culture and traditions, adds up to the value of it.
Sneha, further says, “One of the major reasons why I believe in vintage and second-hand clothing is because of upcycling. I’ve started getting conscious about buying fast fashion and I try to upcycle and recycle clothes just like I got my mother’s saree, tailored into a formal suit”.
Khushboo Changlani, a 19-year-old, Mass Communication student at HR college in Mumbai, says, “Vintage fashion immediately connects me to my mother. My mom is a huge fan of vintage fashion from all around the country. From Kanjivaram to Ghatchola, she’s been collecting sarees since her childhood. So, whenever I look at a vintage piece of clothing, it always reminds me of her”.
Khushboo adding to this perspective says, “I don’t like throwing away clothes, it breaks my heart and this is something that I’ve learnt from my family. I think of altering them and then reusing them in different ways, for different ways, for different occasions”.
In modern times like these, draping a saree isn’t just limited to the traditional way. People have been experimental when it comes to inculcating vintage clothes in their style.
Vintage clothing is something that can never go out of fashion. People are bound to come back to this, time after time and this is what makes it a classic.
Sneha Mankani, a 29-year-old, a home baker and a fashion enthusiast, based in Patna, says, “I like adding something modern and contemporary to every piece of vintage clothing, to give it my personal touch. I mostly experiment with different and unique ways to style it. I remember getting this beautiful skirt stitched from my grandmother’s 15 year old, Banarasi saree and it has been one of the most treasured pieces of clothing in my wardrobe”.
Ananya adds on to this by saying, “One of the major reasons why I believe in vintage clothing is because I feel that fashion is cyclical and every style certainly becomes new again. It’s just a matter of time”. Clothing represents a lot about a person. Owning a vintage piece is just a cherry on top. It has a story and a history behind it. It’s interesting to think about what kind of life it had before. It’s an experience all-together.
Quoting from Femina, in an article published on July 30, 2020, titled, “Vintage is about emotion”, writer Yukti Sodha wrote,
*
*
64
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
Silver Jewellery is an amazing add on to anything Indian.
•Khushboo Changlani (A 19-year-old student) “I like keeping it simple when it comes to clothing. I believe vintage clothes have certain elegance, the way they are”. •Ananya Agarwal (A 22-year-old student) “I like to customize it to loose shirts and pants to fit the vintage feel into my style”. •Sneha Mankani (A 29-year-old fashion enthusiast “I like to wear my vintage clothing with a lot of junk jewelry. I feel like it completes the whole look and accessorizing it is always fun!”.
65
ECHO
66
ISSUE ONE |2020
67
DRESS IN DISTRESS - Lori Pathak
With everyone forced to stay at home, the sales of comfort wear have sprung up. People are buying comfortable sweatshirts and pajamas instead of dresses and skirts. Since there is a halt on parties and outdoor activities, glam outfits and formal wear are losing their wardrobe space. When you buy comfortable clothes that look good on you, there’s no going back. Everyone is entirely making space for loungewear in their wardrobes. That’s why, when comfortable trends hit, they rarely go away. Now, the question is that will we ever to return to those bodycon dresses?
Concept: Lori Pathak Photographed by: Lori Pathak
ECHO
Illustrated by: Jessica Arora Pearl Academy, 2020
72
ISSUE ONE |2020
Virtual Models: Boon or Bane As everything from school to galleries has gone virtual in the past few month’s fashion isn’t far behind. Inspired by the rise of influencers, some of the earliest virtual models first appeared on Instagram. By Jessica Arora A variety of CGI ( computer Generated Imagery) models can be found posing for high-fashion editorials and starring in their own campaigns, especially in the Covid times. These picture-perfect models are changing the way products are marketed to consumers and also show off how incredibly realistic computer-generated digital humans can be.
73
Quoting the Trendhunter.com, in an article published on June 20, 2019, titled “18 Virtual Model Innovations” where writer Laura McQuarrie, exclaimed “While some brands like Ugg and Balmain are welcoming well-known digitally created models like Lil Miquela and Shudu into their campaigns, others like skincare brand SK-II, luxury e-commerce platform YOOX and streetwear label Waviboy are creating
ECHO
avatars that personify their unique identity. As well as appearing front and center on the covers of magazines, these virtual avatars are also being shown alongside human models in various lookbooks and are also being signed to international modelling agencies.”
Models can live among humans but not replace them. Ninja Singh, 28, Super Model, Founder and Director of Ninja Models India, A Model Management Agency said “Brands are not collaborating with virtual models instead of human models. It is the human tendency to challenge himself and challenge the whole idea of technology, now that rtificial Intelligence has come into such a big role play in our day to day lives, people think that Fashion sector might also be a place for robots and virtual models but that’s not true fortunately. The fashion world is very organic as well as, the rest of the world since fashion is something which is a representation of a generation and how people have lived in a time span.”
“The worlds of fashion and brand endorsements are evolving as we speak, with the increase in popularity of virtual models of social media surely brands will collaborate with them.” Said Aarti Luthra Arora, 40, Won the title of Mrs. Supranational in a beauty pageant - Mrs India worldwide, Delhi. She has also an Image Consultant and Soft Skills trainer. She Further added that in her opinion, these virtual models can never replace the human models. When we talk about the raise in Virtual modelling, one thing is for sure that virtual models do exist but not a prominent manneratleast for now and also maybe not in future since we humans look up to the models for inspirations or clothes are bought for festivities and lifestyle and these factor comes from bodies behaviour and conduct and a Virtual Model can never show a behaviour or a conduct that as a human being can show in a garment.
Living in the digital age, where many people are spellboung to their phones and laptops and due to everyone being homebound, there is no reason for anyone to not be transfixed by the technology, one could argue that reality is already taking a back seat. It is as though the fashion industry feels it has to react to the current trend in order to avoid getting left behind. “I think virtual humans are a natural thing to come after Artifical Intelligence and Chat bots become part of our daily life. Virtual humans express the realization of Computers, Artifical Intelligence and machines” said Zoe.
Zoe Dvir, 23, Virtual Model, Israel explained “Brands are still checking things carefully, but saw lots of interesting and understanding the quality and pros using virtual models”, Quoting The ukmodels.co.uk, in an article published on Jan 6, 2020, titled “The Future of Modelling – Can Virtual Models Really Replace Real Faces?” Where writer Melissa Keen said “The lines between real-life models and computer-generated “virtual models are becoming very blurred. Top brands are using fictional models to wear their designs and share millions of followers on Instagram.” According to Zoe, Virtual
*
With innovations using advanced technology, Virtual Models may seem like the answer in a post-Covid world, which will rely heavily on social distancing. But will it replace human models over time? Will Human Model and Virtual Model can co-exist without intervention? We’ll just have to wait to Find out.
*
74
*
Illustrated by: Jessica Arora Pearl Academy, 2020
ECHO
76
ISSUE ONE |2020
77
ECHO
Switch to Sustainability We asked the shoppers to stop; instead they set up shop. By Sanaya Dutt Sustainability is no longer just a concept; it is a way of life. A beacon of hope for the generations to come, it is a revolutionary new approach that illustrates the benefits of not only investing in a better future, but into a better future that can be sustained. It requires a change to be brought to an individual’s mindset to break out of their previous pattern of creation and consumption and into a more environment friendly and socio-
economically conscious way.
78
While there are a number of ways in which an individual can incorporate sustainable practices into their lives, there is however one particular practice that has caught on monumentally, primarily due to the worldwide outbreak of the Covid – 19 Pandemic. This is the practice of investing and indulging in Sustainable Fashion.
ISSUE ONE |2020
Peel away the layers to see that what lies within is imperishable. 79
ECHO
Art: Sanaya Dutt Styling: Sanaya Dutt Photographed by: Dhruv Prakash 80
ISSUE ONE |2020
With the outbreak of the fatal Corona Virus during the early months of 2020, State governments across the globe released emergency directives restricting any and all forms of social gathering and public movement with an exception to essential services. This led to numerous fashion retailers and outlets to shut down shop and seize almost all production and activity until further notice. “Our staff left to go back to their respective hometown in a matter of hours fearing the risk of unemployment and death due to this forsaken virus.” commented Mr. Jitesh Lakhwani, the owner of a large scale garment production and export house in Delhi.
At a time where the world was forced to focus only on their essential needs, as resources ran low and people struggled to afford the variety of luxuries, they once lavishly indulged in, a large majority were introduced to the idea of sustainable living. To make do with what you already have and only take what you truly need. This ideology extended to the world of fashion as well. As the demand and supply ran low, both brands and customers revelled in a sense of need-based production and purchase which led to the rise in awareness and practice of Sustainable Fashion.
With almost all fast fashion outlets shutting down for more than two seasons, it was observed that a large section of its consumers finally had the opportunity to break away from their helpless habit of being attracted to flashy sale signs and new collections like moths to a flame. “I had a weekly routine to visit malls and stores to window shop and three out of five times I would end up purchasing something or the other. It’s a habit that helped me relax and unwind after a stressful week of work. I really miss that!” exclaims Girik Madan, a student of NIFT, Kolkata.
Sustainable Fashion from a brands perspective is to create in a way which is most considerate of humanity and the environment. The goal is to have a system which works without leaving a negative footprint. “It’s not just about creating a product that lasts but creating it in a way that doesn’t have an adverse effect on the environment. There are numerous ways to achieve that.” stated Aashna Sign, owner of Olio Stories. “For example, we encouraged our audience on social media to send in customized orders rather than having to buy ready-made items. In this case we were supplying directly to the demand, nothing more and nothing less.”
Prisoners to their need to shop regularly, they had been cut off from their source, left high and dry and aching for some good old retail therapy. Finding an alternative to satisfy their need to shop became imperative as the world outside shut us in.
On the other hand, for a customer, this means thinking about what you buy, knowing which philosophies you are supporting through your purchases, and also asking yourself if you are really going to wear that new piece to the extent that it
81
ECHO
was worth being made. This makes both the brand and customer more aware of the consequences of being a part of the endless cycle of production and purchase.
“It’s no longer about the brand, it’s about being able to wear something and feel good in it. At the end of the day fashion is about individual style and more importantly how you feel when you’re wearing what you’re wearing. If I feel good in it, I don’t care if it’s from someone else’s closet.” says Anushka Kumar, a fashion and design student from Mumbai who is an avid online thrifter. “Almost everything I have bought during lockdown has been from some else’s closet and I have had no complaints so far. Just make sure to ask for any defects or damages on the garment before making the purchase and you’re good to go. I am sure I will continue thrifting even once the stores open and everything goes back to the old normal.”
Mislabelled as expensive and high maintenance, sustainable fashion is largely misinterpreted as a high snob society trait that only the rich can afford, when it is in fact nothing like that. It is the ability to make more conscious choices while indulging in fashion. It does not always require you to shell out more money than you can or compromise on what you like. It starts simply with a switch. To switch to a better alternative which will yield a better result in the greater scheme of things. To switch to a better lifestyle which will ensure a better future for the planet, the people and most importantly you.
Although, do these online second-hand stores fulfil the shoppers desire for variety? Do they have something for everyone? “It’s actually quite simple to find what you like. When you’re on social media you usually end up finding like-minded people. Similarly, you will also find people who share the same style as you and to be honest, the Instagram algorithm does most of the work for you. Click on one thing you like and you’ll slowly find hundreds like it appearing on your screen in no time.”
In light of the recent pandemic, we observed a huge spike in individuals actually switching to this conscious lifestyle by choice. With both external and intrinsic factors at play, the world of sustainable fashion has slowly but surely made its way into everyone’s lives (and closets). As the stores were forced to shut down and the shoppers were asked to stop, they quickly adapted and in turn set up some of their own. As the world outside remained shut behind closed doors, this small sustainable business began to blossom. The rise of reselling pre-owned clothing via online thrift stores caught on as a trend which spread faster than wildfire.
Other popular and sustainable fashion practices which are generally slightly heavier on the pocket include buying from small scale brands that follow an end to end sustainable process of garment
82
ISSUE ONE |2020
Art: Sanaya Dutt Styling: Sanaya Dutt Photographed by: Dhruv Prakash 83
ECHO
84
ISSUE ONE |2020
and stored to be recycled or upcycled ensuring that nothing goes to waste.” The Jodi life also embarked on a Zero Waste mission wherein they released a collection of hand stitched applique blankets made completely from upcycling scrap fabric left from their previous collections. “The response we got was phenomenal but what felt good was the fact that we knew that we had done right by the brand, and the environment. Nothing felt more rewarding.”
manufacturing and production. This includes producing clothes from sustainable raw materials such as organic cotton instead of synthetic cotton blends that release millions of micro fibres, polluting the water with every wash. The manufacturing process must include the proper treatment of the water used for dyeing the garment as well as trying to incorporate a Zero Waste method of production. The Jodi Life is one such example of an end to end sustainable brand that is involved in its production process from start to end.
Sustainability is neither an option, nor a choice. It is the need of the hour to change our pre-existing outdated practices that are causing more harm than good. All it requires is a first step to be more conscious and aware of our choices we make and what their consequences will be.
“Our work is centred around block printing so we don’t end up using more resources than we need. Our products centre around sustainability which is why we are involved in the process of manufacturing from start to finish. All our scrap fabrics are collected
*
*
85
*
ECHO
CULT
88
Confining Nuptials
94
Freedom Fabric makes a comeback
100
Disconnection
104
IndiGenius Label: The New Game
86
ISSUE ONE |2020
TURE
The current situation that the world is facing, the very element of touch has started to come under threat.
DISCONNECTION Pg. 96
87
ECHO
Confining Nuptials Even quarantine couldn’t stop them from getting tied forever.
By Rashi Goel What happens when lockdown throws a hurdle on the way to matrimony. Well, a sudden drastic change in anything brings a lot of chaos. Especially when it comes to the day of the wedding when people have been dreaming of it for a long time. Ridhima,27, and her spouse Ankit,30, were getting married on 15th of April, 2020. Both had a specific vision for what
they wanted their wedding day to look like. “All our dreams got shattered” said Ridhima. “Even though we incurred huge losses because of the sudden cancellations, it was a comforting moment to know that I can still get married during the lockdown with my immediate family around me” she adds.
88
ISSUE ONE |2020
They refused to let the lockdown dampen their spirits and had a zoom wedding instead.
Source: Riddhima and Ankit
89
ECHO
Source: Riddhima and Ankit
90
ISSUE ONE |2020
multiple functions and elaborate clothescouples going back to the basics on arguably the most important day of their lives. “In the end, it’s all about marrying the person you love, so at least you get to do that,” she giggles.
Indians love to get gathered in close groups, be it on public transport or wedding ceremonies. They can not continue to do so in these times. Even so, Ridhima’s partner who is quite tech-savvy gave a wonderful idea of making the wedding broadcast online. From Trimming the wedding guest list to fewer attendees to private zoom call meetings was sent to close relatives. “For the rest of the world the wedding went live” mentioned Ankit.
Wedding Industry has been impacted due to lockdown in the wake of COVID-19. Now the conception of a virtual tiny low-key ceremony, getting married at Backyard is drifting.
The old culture is back again to rock. The trend of simplicity and focus between the ceremony of being husband and wife. Earlier, people used to get married in their ‘Aangan’, people seem to be doing the same now. Recasting the idea of the luxurious Indian wedding —with guest lists running into many hundreds. Lakhs of rupees spent on
*
Wedding culture is usually sold as ‘your perfect day’. Settling for simplicity is not like settling for less. “At the end, we realised being happy with your close people in a wedding is what all that matters,” she concludes.
*
91
*
ECHO
92
ISSUE ONE |2020
93
ECHO
Art: Ishita Shail Pathak Styling: Lori Pathak Photographed by: Lori Pathak 94
ISSUE ONE |2020
Freedom Fabric Makes a Comeback Due to the increase in sustainable fashion and nationalism in today’s youth khadi, the home-grown fabric has become the new ‘it’. By Lori Pathak From being a symbol of self-reliance, sustenance, and hard work to evolving and becoming a luxury product, Khadi has come a long way. Almost a century after the Swadeshi movement propelled the nation to stand on its feet, the hand-spun and handwoven fabric, Khadi, has acquired a space in the millennial wardrobe. Many designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh,
95
Rohit Bal, Anju Modi, Payal Jain, Poonam Bhagat, and even Manish Malhotra have showcased their collections around khadi in various fashion shows. Not to forget brands like Eleven Eleven, Akaaro, The Pot Plant, and many more embrace the freedom fabric. Designers feel that perception of khadi needs to be changed, and couturiers are working toward giving the fabric a
ECHO
contemporary makeover. Many designers have experimented with Khadi by giving it western touch. Ritu Beri, a fashion designer whose collection consisted of Indowestern silhouettes which reflected the Indian charm with a modern flavour. They have also launched their collection in an international platform which was made from khadi. Fashion designer Manish Tripathi is taking khadi global. He is exporting pocket squares, ties, home furnishing, apparels and accessories to European countries.
dark or bright colours can be quite an eyesore, especially during summer. Khadi comes in hues that are extremely soothing to the eyes.”. He also talks about how the fabric has come a long way and can be moulded in many ways, depending on its personality. Apart from being comfortable and chic, the fabric is also popular because it promotes sustainability. Muskaan Singh, a 22-year-old engineering student from Lucknow, says, “I like the fabric because it is fashionable and sustainable. The fact that it comes with the ‘Made In India’ tag also adds on the whole feel of it.”
Among all the reasons for Khadi being so popular, comfort is a major one. Nachiket Lakhani, a 20-year-old, medical student from Ankleshwar, says, “Khadi is a summerfriendly fabric, and wearing it during long college hours is very comforting.” He further adds he has long college hours, and then he has to report for practical, and in between shifts, he doesn’t get enough time to change, so wearing a light fabric helps his skin breathe.
Quoting the Financial Express, in an article published on May 8, 2020, titled as, “Khadi and Village Industries turnover touches record Rs 88,887 cr in FY-20”, writer PTI, wrote, “Looking at the performance in the last one year, the turnover of Khadi registered a growth of 31 percent from Rs 3215.13 crore in 2018-19, to Rs 4211.26 crore in 2019-20. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) also stated that, the turnover of Village Industries products reached to Rs 84,675.39 crore in 2019-20, registering a growth of over 19 percent from the previous year, i.e. 2018-19, which was at Rs 71,077 crore.”
Prachi Tripathy, a 21-year-old, fashion design student from Mumbai, says, “The fabric has an extremely sophisticated look and feel. Not only Khadi is easy to wear, it has a premium feel to it as well”. She also mentions that being a handwoven and hand spun fabric, Khadi is a luxury item, and hence it is quite expensive.
When everyone is proudly embracing fashion statements from the ‘80s and ‘90s, why not include our own? Khadi is highly popular again and is affordable too. There’s nothing better than a homegrown fabric like khadi to define the Indian millennial.
Khadi is more than just comfort wear. There are many other aspects that people look for when it comes to using this fabric for their attire. Yash Miyani, a 20-year-old, fashion design student, says, “Sometimes,
*
*
96
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
There’s nothing to beat the feel of the home-spun fabric that Mahatma Gandhi so loved.
•Khadi, also known as Khaddar, is made by spinning threads on an instrument called a charkha. It is woven and spun by hand; hence it is a time-consuming process. •The versatile khadi fabric has the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. •It has a coarse texture and gets easily crumpled, and therefore, is starched to keep it firm and stiff. •On washing, it is more enhanced; the more you wash it, the better is the look. •Khadi does not quickly wear out with a shelf life of at least four to five years.
97
ECHO
98
ISSUE ONE |2020
99
ECHO
DISCONNECTION - Diya Ahuja
100
ISSUE ONE |2020
101
Art: Dhiti Pahuja Photographed by: Diya Ahuja
ECHO
102
Art: Dhiti Pahuja Photographed by: Diya Ahuja
ISSUE ONE |2020
The basic need for humans is physical intimacy. Now, the current situation that the world is facing, the very element of touch has started to come under threat. Communication has been reduced to a 6-inch screen and people are struggling each day, just to feel the warmth of a hug. “I don’t mind not being there physically. What I really mind is knowing that I don’t have an option to be there”, says Devdhar Bhatia, a 20-year-old, a student in Mumbai, who hasn’t seen his girlfriend in 6 months. The sense of physicality, which we used to take for granted, has made us introspect the definition of what relationship means to each one of us. Times like these, bring a lot of people together. From families to relationships, people need human contact. If not physically, love has found other ways to join people together. It has started looking different more than ever, but the one thing that can never change is the comfort that the physical presence brings to a relationship.
103
Art: Dhiti Pahuja Photographed by: Diya Ahuja
ECHO
Indigenous Labels: the new game Indians are preferring homegrown brands and helping the fashion industry, in promotion and preservation of local craftsyouth khadi, the home-grown fabric has become the new ‘it’. By Lori Pathak The millennials are a group of energetic advocates of sustainable fashion. Everyone believes that all fashion should be made impartially, transparently, and ethically. India has a vast consumer market. People want to make sure that measures are taken to look after the workers and makers. Being the consumers, it is our duty to promote Indian brands and local labels.
104
Even the industry feels that the concept of ‘Made in India’ is the right step, to make India, the powerhouse that it can be. Many local brands that are coming up, have a global sense and awareness, at the core of their ideology. They are not intimidated by their Indian origin; instead, they are a rare breed of luxury brands with a distinct Indian personality. ‘Indian’ as a brand itself is not viewed as a luxury. It makes it double as unique
ISSUE ONE |2020
Featuring a Fab India outfit, promoting the Indian labels
105
ECHO
Source: Anchal Upadhyay 106
ISSUE ONE |2020
when these brands take it upon themselves to improve India’s image, globally through their range.
manufactured in India, rather than any international brand. Many designers have been incorporating native crafts of various places like Kutch. Quoting Her Story, in an article published on July 2, 2020, in the article ‘This fashion designer-entrepreneur is on a mission to revive dying Suf embroidery in Kutch’ writer Nirandhi Gowthaman says, “On a trip to the Kutch region in Gujarat, Vanshika Gupta discovered the intricate art of Suf embroidery practiced by women. It involves a painstaking process and is centered around triangles called Suf. The art form is slowly dying and is supported by a few NGOs in the region. She wanted to support the craft and the women creating it and thus, she started incorporating the work in her own designs.
Quoting the Fashion Network, in an article published on July 9, 2020, titled, “FDCI promotes ‘Made in India’ with digital campaign” writer Isabelle Crossley wrote, “The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) is promoting designers and brands that work with Indian craftspeople and showcase traditional textiles in its new digital campaign featuring short films. The FDCI is sharing a series of short films, depicting the production process, of a number of brands on its social media, to promote the Indian crafts sector and encourage shoppers to buy Indian-made products, to aid the postlockdown recovery”. Deep Kevadiya, a 20-year-old communication design student from Gujarat, shares his views, “Nationalism and pride in being an Indian, are also shifting the scales in favor of homegrown brands. Promoting Indian textiles and labels will help the economy expand and support small-scale craftsmen”. He also points out that in house labels, deliver similar quality and less expensive designs, resulting in the welfare of these craftsmen.
With the help of her small team comprising a masterji, two tailors, a senior designer, a trims handler, a helper, and the craftswomen from Kutch, she hopes to make her unique mark with Suf embroidery as her label’s USP. In the future, she hopes to work with different crafts and weavers, to make her own fabric, and experiment with Suf and more crafts.” Malavika Dalvi, a 22-year-old, fashion styling student, from Mumbai, says, “A significant change is the waning ‘Phoren’ allure. Consumers are now persuaded, that local labels can compete with global brands”. She also believes that Indian customers have changed the way they shop. Their
The Indian customer remains very conscious of ‘value for money’, local retailers are in a stronger position to recognize the value proposition. Several brands offer the same quality of clothes. Hence, millennials generally choose to wear a brand
107
ECHO purchase is characterized not only by the name of the brand but rather, by the idea of the gain that the brand offers. It is also based on the value it provides and the quality of the product.
“Instead of shopping blindly, from hypedup international labels that burn a big hole in my credit card, I would consider these funky, high-quality and, most importantly, truly affordable homegrown fashion labels in return for a dress that I can only wear and flaunt once, on Instagram”.
Nowadays, many major local brands have started introducing their products in small towns. Local activities have helped designers, to make garments based on the consumer’s preferences. It has also given an advantage to native crafts and assists them in their revival and promotion.
Quoting the Indian Retailer, in an article published on July 21, 2020, titled, “Be Vocal for Local: Bringing Indian retail brands to the forefront”, writer Shreevar Kheruka wrote, “Amidst the global pandemic, followed by lockdown for months India’s prime minister Mr. Narendra Modi urged India to be ‘vocal for local’, moving towards an Aatma Nirbhar Bharat, in which he appealed to all citizens to buy and endorse products made in the country. Today, India’s credibility amongst Indians and beyond is stronger than ever. There is visible momentum, energy, and optimism which local manufacturers like ourselves are experiencing, and with the right kind of environment, we can use this as an opportunity for long term success of Indian enterprises”.
John Chacko, a 21-year-old fashion designing student from Kerala, gives his opinions, by saying, “Local brands have a tremendous benefit because of their strong knowledge of the regional context. In their style, they integrate certain motifs that are capable of attracting millennials”. He further adds, apart from understanding and embracing the Indian essence in the collection, these brands are easily accessible to a large part of the society. Homegrown brands are regional, so it lets local retailers create their particular marketing models — driving their products efficiently to as many store shelves as possible in a relatively short period. Another advantage is their desire to go further, which is a challenge for global brands.
Indian brands have brought traditional Indian craft techniques into sharp, contemporary focus. They have managed to take influence from India’s rich heritage to the direction of minimalism and environmentally conscious fashion. In every way, these labels have rightly won their spot in our shopping carts and wardrobes.
Gargee Jajodia, a 23-year-old, product designing student from Mumbai, says,
*
*
*
Some of the homegrown labels we can’t get our eyes off. 1.Nappa Dori, Gautam Sinha It is a homegrown label from Delhi. It has achieved a delicate balance between contemporary fashion designs and unique Indian sensibilities. The brand brings top-notch craftsmanship to its products and employs the most delicate fabrics to create sophisticated and practical, yet unconventional apparel. 2.Doodlage, Kriti Tula and Paras Arora Doodlage is all about recycling and using good-quality industrial waste to create clothing that’s not just eco-friendly but also stylish. The way their breathable silhouettes still look tailored is everyone’s favorite. 108
ISSUE ONE |2020
109
ECHO
LIV
112
A Lover’s Discourse
114
Isolation
116
Unfiltered: A Journey
122
Pessimism and Optimism
126
Loungewear: New Workwear
110
ISSUE ONE |2020
ING
With people staying in at their houses, loungewear becomes the new workwear.
Loungewear: new workwear Pg. 118 111
ECHO
112
ISSUE ONE |2020
113
ECHO
ISOLATION - Sanaya Dutt
114
ISSUE ONE |2020
The empty silence of city streets, No one to touch, no one to greet. Glued to a fortress of solitude in your bed. No other place you’d rather flee.
To feel good, to be at peace. To be okay, at the least. You’ve fought so hard for what you never had. Peace for those who revel in their sad?
Come forth from behind these walls, you hide. Aching to leave these restrictions you abide You rather be out than caged inside. Put those thoughts in a bag and swallow your pride. For this is how you live your life.
Open your eyes Open your mind This whirlwind of feelings has made you blind. You are what you truly need, To get out of this, trust yourself and take the lead. Wipe those salted streams that ran down your face Stand up, dust off and embrace. Embrace the light that seeps within Through the chink in your armor Let it flood your soul. Help you remain calmer. In times of loneliness in times of need You are all you’ll ever need You’re not alone For we stand together And look ahead to a tomorrow. That will be better.
Your thoughts get louder every day, Your mind has slowly led you astray. There’s no place to run, no place to hide. The silence is deafening. It’s crushing you inside. You fight yourself, Your heart, your mind You’re going to lose it all, be left with nothing to find. It’s a battle lost But at what cost? At the cost of sanity Is that what matters the most? You ask yourself as you reflect, What are these emotions you’re trying so hard to deflect.
115
ECHO
“I honestly felt very vulnerable about sharing these self portraits initially. The
idea of being able to express a part of me, a part of my skin, in this raw form is something that I’ve never done before. Being a restricted person, who doesn’t let people in easily, these portraits give a sense of the person that I am, the things that I’m fond of and the pictures that are a part of me.
”
116
ISSUE ONE |2020
Unfiltered: A Journey Authenticity is one of the major things that people respect these days. From influencers to real people, everyone is looking for content with which they can relate to. By Diya Ahuja In an article published by The New Yorker on October 1st, 2019, writer, Carrie Batton exclaimed, “Instagram, once a platform where life experiences could be reduced to a beautiful snapshot and a catchy phrase, began to feel more like LiveJournal. Captions grew longer and read more like personal essays. Some were highly specific and heavy, others vague and lighthearted”.
Divyata Pal, a 20-year-old, BSC Finance student at NMIMS, Bangalore, says, “I try to be as real as possible on my Instagram. There was this sudden realization, that not everyone who follows me, is going to validate me. So, why not post whatever I feel like posting”.
117
Human connection is all about relatability because not everything is always as polished as it looks on digital
ECHO
Self Portrait Diya Ahuja Pearl Academy 2020
118
ISSUE ONE |2020
to maintain a particular lifestyle just for the sake of Instagram. Divyata Pal further says, “Generally, the things that I post are very random and spontaneous, they’re about the thoughts that I have in my mind at that point in time. I try to keep them as less cosmetic as possible because that is what being real means to me”.
mediums. The whole perspective is changing. The whole energy is changing. In an article published by Entrepreneur. com, on April 17, 2018, writer, Kofi Frimkong says, “There are creators, who are beginning to create content on social media with the understanding that real life is not a series of just highs. Giving a more holistic view of your life, the good and the bad is more likely going to help you attract more interest because that’s how most people’s lives are”.
A lot of things contribute to one’s selfacceptance and being real on Instagram, adds up to that. It makes one realize, that the whole concept of being filtered won’t do good and is a waste of energy.
Khushboo Changlani, a 19-year-old aspiring content writer, studying at HR College in Mumbai, when asked about this, said that she is still under construction when it comes to the fear of validation. Further adding, she said that she feels that self aceeptance is an ongoing process and whatever content she posts on Instagram, contains a huge part of her.
Riddhima Katiyar, a 17-year-old, St. Pauls School graduate, from Gorakhpur, Uttar Pradesh, says, “My journey to being real on digital was a very long process but it felt liberating. Initially, my Instagram was more about my filtered pictures or some travel stories with one-liner pretentious captions. Now it revolves around my state of mind or my opinions about certain topics”.
People now, really don’t care to maintain their Instagram feeds. They don’t think too much about it because it’s not only just real content that attracts the audience, but it also removes this pressure of creators
*
It all rounds up to be as natural as possible. It isn’t about planning or even thinking twice before posting something. The more random it is, the real it feels.
*
*
•Kusha Kapila (32-year-old, Social Media Influencer) “ I have spent many birthdays getting pathetically existential, trashing myself, my work, my body, my trajectory- of how little I have achieved in the most productive years of my life...I am as much as my imperfections as my strength, as much as my failures as successes, as much as the people I emulate who empowered me along the way”. •Dolly Singh (a 26-year-old, Social media Influencer) “26 years, that’s how long it took me to realize my self-worth. To wake up thinking I’m no less than anyone and nor is anyone less than me”.
119
ECHO
120
ISSUE ONE |2020
121
ECHO
Optimism vS Pessimism - Jessica Arora
Pessimism Dry tree branches depict a lifeless attitude towards the world, whereas the gray and gloomy sky represents the negative approach towards everything. A small amount of light, of optimism, trying to filter through the webbed branches of the dark forest shows the strong side effects of pessimism.
122
ISSUE ONE |2020
Pessimism Art by Jessica Arora 123
ECHO
Optimism Art by Jessica Arora 124
ISSUE ONE |2020
Optimism Blooming flowers represent the beautiful effects of optimism, whereas the blue and bright sky shows infinite opportunities which one can obtain, if they are optimistic. Since the optimistic approach towards life can help in fighting the problems during these difficult times.
Art by: Jessica Arora
125
ECHO
Loungewear: New Workwear The nation is working, socializing, and exercising at home in light of the coronavirus outbreak. The demand for loungewear is increasing, to cater to consumers’ new normal. What are consumers looking for? By Jessica Arora pandemic, most likely feels a little bizarre and oftentimes, absolutely pointless. Getting dressed as a part of an ordinary routine can help us with overseeing COVID related anxiety. In any case, that doesn’t mean that we have to start wearing wired bras and denims.
The lives of consumers have been altered dramatically by the impact of the coronavirus crisis. Social distancing and working from home has shifted requirements for categories such as workwear and going-out attire, to items suitable for a life lived at home. Getting into ‘Formal’ clothes while you’re homebound during the COVID-19
126
Now more than ever, having a closet with loungewear seems like a really sma idea as travel plans get canceled,
ISSUE ONE |2020
Whether it’s a lazy Sunday or a cold evening after work, slipping into your most comfy clothes is one of the best feelings.
127
ECHO
Art: Jessica Arora Styling: Jessica Arora Photography: Jessica Arora 128
ISSUE ONE |2020
weddings are getting postponed, schools and offices shifting to work from home, loungewear seems like a really smart idea.
already stocked up for most of their styles and that worked in their favor, around the phase of lockdown two. When the delivery services opened up, people did not want to step out to malls for shopping at that time. Online shopping experience and customer relations took the centre stage. She further said that they are planning on working on our loungewear line for the Autumn/Winter season.
Quoting the Hindustan Times, in an article published on March 23, 2020, titled as “Coronavirus lockdown: Alia Bhatt, Deepika Padukone, Rihanna, Priyanka Chopra shows how to rock pajamas all day, every day,” Radhika Bhirani wrote, “Celebrities from Alia Bhatt to Deepika Padukone are constantly posting on their social media on how to indulge in some self-care and stay safe. And their no make-up looks in their super cute pajamas are a pleasant change from the usual severely photoshopped photo shoots they usually keep posting otherwise. So sleepwear as a trend is here to stay.”
Mona Arora, 45, Founder and Creative Director at Mona Arora Designs, based in Delhi, a homegrown label for Indian Bespoke garments said, “Most of my clients, who are approaching me for garments, are looking for something which values their money. People want something which gives them the utmost comfort, something like maxi dresses, cotton palazzo suits, dhoti pants with a cotton kurti.”
Akriti Kochar Vij, founder and owner of Perch, based in Delhi, is a brand that was made to fill the major gap in the Indian market for someone who loves comfortable, affordable nightwear and loungewear. Perch was born in September 2015. Akriti said, “Since the lockdown, we have seen a spike in the industry for sure. With everyone at home, comfort wear clothing like Kimonos, matching satin and cotton nightwear paired with shorts or pajamas, has become a priority, expendable income is lower and people are looking to make smart and wise purchases, the idea has been to cater to that need.”
She further added that people are looking for the best quality fabrics that are soft and breathable. Not to ignore the fact that the past two months have been the peak of summer. “Earlier, one out of four garments used to be comfort wear, but now numbers are the other way around. We were quickly able to adapt to these changing demands of our shoppers and that is one of the major advantages of being a Bespoke clothing label,” said Mona. Shivani Aggarwal, Creative Director and Founder of Ani clothing, based in Delhi, a brand that specializes in ready-to-wear, said, “Loungewear like a plain cotton t-shirt
Akriti further added that their lead time for delivery was much shorter since they had
129
ECHO
for the people who are conscious about their health and are also looking for comfort like cotton leggings, slide slippers and tank tops etc.
paired with matching shorts, has become the new normal. People prefer dressing up comfortably even to go out now.” according to Shivani, it is very interesting to see the return of simple silhouettes over complex ones.
Snigdha said, “Due to people being homebound, doing all the various activities like working from home, exercising and lounging, has also increased our sales.” She further added that her company has been able to adjust to the rising trend and has launched more relaxed clothing which has more comfort like casual and soft T-shirts and shorts.
Shivani further said, “Night suits are the new normal too, I and all of my clients prefer lounging in them the whole day.” She also said that they ran promotions constantly to lure people with her beautiful loungewear collection. Snigdha Verma, 26, Marketing and Operations Manager in Syria, Based in Delhi, A brand which focuses on Comfort Athleisure wear said, “There is an increase in demand for comfort wear, more like something that could be worn for comfort as well as to attend a meeting online.”
Work attire has become loose-fitting loungewear, people seek out comfortable clothing in which to work from home during self-quarantine due to the coronavirus pandemic. Social distancing and working from home have shifted consumer demand from workwear and going- out attire, to items suitable for comfort at home.
She further added that the Athleisure category, which is athletics plus leisure, is
*
*
130
*
ISSUE ONE |2020
131
ECHO
cs_@innisfree.com 132
ISSUE ONE |2020
133
ECHO
134
ISSUE ONE |2020
135
ECHO
ECHO F A S H I O N | C U LT U R E | L I V I N G ISSUE ONE |2020 Echo is published four times a year. To subscribe to our magazine, visit at echomagazine583031707.wordpress.com/
136