Home-Dzine Online - May 2013

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Home-Dzine IDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

May 2013

Craft • DIY • Food • Green • Home Decor & Design

WARMER HOME - DIY POOLS

a word or two

Now that winter is upon us, this is the best time to plan for next summer’s outdoor entertainment. In this issue we focus on building a swimming pond and a DIY swimming pool - if you prefer the do-ityourself option.

We also look at ways to warm up a home without using electricity - using colour.

Enjoy!

Janice Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen.

All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

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WINTER COLOUR Dress up your home with colour DIY WINE RACK PVC pipes for this contemporary design MODERN LIGHTS Stylish lights with PVC pipes DIY COFFEE TABLE Follow our simple DIY steps

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BUILT-IN SHELVES Custom looks - DIY design CONCEALED HINGES Choosing the right one BUILD A NATURAL POOL Go natural the DIY way TIPS FOR NATURAL POOLS Frequently asked questions

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CONVENTIONAL POOL Looking at the DIY option RISING DAMP Treat thes signs of rising damp WEATHERPROOFING Now is the best time

Grand Designs Live, SA’s leading contemporary home show, will open its doors from 24th – 26th May 2013 at the Coca-Cola Dome and as always promises to deliver a unique, awardwinning show packed with even more design and inspiration for your abode.

Grand Designs Live 2013 is certainly taking it to an all-new level with a focus on interactivity, innovation, education, experts and trending – bringing even more creative affair to this grand affair!

The event will be packed to the brim with ideas, design and innovation for every room in your home. With over 300 exhibitors, across seven different sections, covering interiors, kitchens & bathrooms, self-build and renovations, gardens, technology and shopping, there really is something for everyone.

Whether you are planning to improve, redesign or simply redecorate your home, you’ll find everything that you need, all under one roof at Grand Designs Live.

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decor and design

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dressed FOR WINTER Eskom are already spreading the news that power outages are deďŹ nitely on the cards for this winter.

That means no heaters, no lights, no hot water and a cold home.

You could always rush out and buy a generator - if you are prepared to spend around R10,000 for a decent one these days.

Or you could make sure that you stock up on warm clothes, extra blankets and add a touch of warmth to your home with colour.

You can do as much research as you like on the topic of colour psychology, but there’s no denying that colour affects our mood and can instantly change the look of a space.

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Colour is one way to warm up a home without using electricity. But not every colour has a warming effect, so let’s take a look at warmer colours for home decor.

You don’t want to decorate your home every time the seasons change, but if you choose colours cleverly - you won’t need to.

Walls painted in neutral colours provide the perfect canvas for building up layers of colour and then it’s simply a matter of adding colour here and there with a feature wall, upholstered furniture, soft accessories and home decor.

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LEFT: Taking cues from the art work above the honey-brown sofa, orange pieces and accents give this room a visual lift from an otherwise neutral palette. Designed by Artistic Designs for Living. Colours by Plascon.

Warm browns and orange accents have a way of adding a feeling of warmth to a room. These colours remind you of sun-drenched interiors and hot desert sands.

Orange is on the warmer side of the colour spectrum, so this colour will add warmth and spice to any room setting.

If you wanted to add a little more excitement - add splashes of berry tones with a few accents and accessories.

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IN THIS ROOM: Rich, deep red tones combined with shimmery ivory are the perfect accent colours for this room setting.

Facebrick walls have a tendency to make any room feel darker, but by adding bold accent colours the space immediately brightens up.

Paint walls in a neutral colours such as Ivory Parchment and build up layers of French Kiss or Spring Forest as accent colours.

These colours, combined with the browns of the facebrick wall, lounge suite and wood furniture, present a colour palette that is perfect for winter or summer.

Painting facebrick walls If you decide to paint facebrick walls rather than leave them natural, make sure to clean the bricks well ďŹ rst before applying a high quality, washable paint such as Plascon Double Velvet.

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Snuggle up to warmth Make your own textured shag pillows by cutting up and sewing together a shag bath rug to ďŹ t over a pillow form.

You may even get two pillows out of one mat, depending on the size.

Textured luxury

It’s so easy and affordable to make your own luxurious cushion covers using faux fur. Visit the Home-Dzine.co.za Craft Section for step-by-step instructions for making cushion covers.

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Purple is an unexpected colour that you don’t find in many homes, yet this colour offers warmth, a touch of glam and adds excitement to a boring room.

IN THIS ROOM shades of purple are combined with a dash of grey and white which blends perfectly with the mahogany tint of the wood furniture.

If you love a particular colour there’s no reason why you can’t use this colour to decorate your home. The trick is to apply constraint and not overdo it. Too much and you could end up overpowering the space.

Jewel tones add warmth and elegance to a room. Choose colours from the same swatch for wall with depth and interest.

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Black and white accents stand out when used with shades of purple.

Shop your local fabric store and you will ďŹ nd faux suede or plush fabric in almost any shade you can think of.

Some basic upholstery skills, a sewing machine and supplies, and you are ready to slipcover a sofa, make or recover an ottoman in your favourite colours. Visit the Home-Dzine.co.za DIY Section to ďŹ nd out how to make your own storage ottoman.

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Colour doesn’t have to be bold and overpowering to create a warm, relaxing room during the colder months. You can achieve exactly the same effect using subtle shades of warm colours.

IN THIS ROOM: Soft, subject shades of moss green , butterscotch and pale orange all combine harmoniously for a setting that is elegant and welcoming - without overpowering the senses.

The colours you choose the warm up a room should be ones that you love and will enjoy living with.

The days of boring beige or cream walls are well past and now you can choose colours that are hints of white from all colours in the spectrum.

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Dress walls with ‘not quite whites’ - taking cues from any fittings and furnishings that will be placed in rooms.

Use the Plascon Inspired Colour System to select a white that is tinted with warm or cool colours.

For cooler rooms choose whites tinted with peachy reds or orange hues to add warm colour.

For a modern or contemporary home, colours earth tones will provide any space with a touch of natural, earthy warmth while still light and airy.

Use warm colours in large living or bedrooms rooms. These colours have the effect of making the walls seem closer and create a sense of intimacy in an otherwise sterile space.

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August Home Publishing

diy project

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If you really don’t need a cellar full of wine but do enjoy keeping a few bottles within reach, check out this stylish and versatile wine rack.

Super easy to make using offcuts of plumbers pipe, or buy a single pipe at your local Builders Warehouse.

Free space is in short supply in many kitchens, which can make finding room to store wine bottles a real challenge. This cleverly designed wine rack solves that problem: It can be displayed on the end of a cabinet, underneath a cabinet, or on a countertop, depending on your individual needs. And its clean lines look great in any style of kitchen from contemporary to traditional.

Considering how much this sleek rack has going for it, you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to build and how little the materials will set you back. You’ll turn standard PVC pipe into C-shaped “cradles” that securely hold the bottles. To make them, pick up a length at your local Builders Warehouse. The cradles get fastened to a base made from inexpensive PAR pine sections.

Mount your new wine rack on the side of a cabinet, underneath a top cabinet, or have it freestanding on a countertop - it looks good no matter where you put it !

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YOU WILL NEED 1 of 110mm diameter PVC pipe 1 of 1,8 metre length PAR pine 44mm 10 of 16mm screws Mounting screws 180-grit sandpaper Rust-Oleum 2X satin espresso TOOLS Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Jigsaw plus steel- and clean-cutting blades Tape measure and pencil

Rust-Oleum spray paints come in an amazing range of colours and textures - so paint your wine rack any colour you like!

You will ďŹ nd everything you need for this project at Builders Warehouse.

620mm

44mm 45

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60mm pre-drilled hole

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This wine rack is an easy-to-build project for just about anyone: 1. The curved profile must be drawn accurately on the pine, so the cradles will fit snugly against the brackets. Use a cut section of pipe to draw the curves onto the mounting brackets.

2. A jigsaw makes short work of both the straight and curved cuts on the wine rack brackets. Firmly clamp each bracket to your worktop and then cut slightly outside the lines using a slow, controlled cut.

3. Sand all the cut portions of the bracket with 180-grit sandpaper.

4. Use a jigsaw and steel cutting blade to cut a slot 60mm wide from the top to the bottom of the pipe. The reason for using a steel cutting blade is that the teeth on this type of blade are very small, making your cut much neater.

5. After cutting the slot, cut the pipe into sections - each section should be 200mm long.

6. Sand the cut cradle sections of pipe with 180-grit sandpaper until smooth.

7. Wipe the pieces clean before spraying with 2 light coats of Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint, allowing drying time between each coat.

8. After you’ve finished cutting, sanding, and spray-painting the cradles and brackets, attach the cradles to the brackets by driving screws through holes, pre-drilled with a 2mm HSS bit in the cradles. Position these holes 20mm in from each end of the cradles.

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August Home Publishing

diy project A group of PVC pipes light up a corner. Each pipe is fitted with a battery-operated LED touch lamp.

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Drill a starter hole for the cutout using a drill/driver and 10mm HSS bit

Mark the edges to be cut along the length of the pipe with a marker.

starter hole 30cm

Layout the pattern with masking tape and use a jigsaw and clean-cut blade to remove.

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design

diy project

DIVINE

You don’t have to spend a fortune to add these decorative tables to your home. We’ll show you how easy it is to make a side table and then you can make the entire set.

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YOU WILL NEED: 4 of 44 x 44 x 500mm PAR pine - legs 1 of 488 x 488mm 16mm PG Bison SupaWood - top 1 of 10 x 44mm strip of 1,8 metres - cut to lengths for top ďŹ ller 4 of 150 x 400mm 16mm PG Bison Supawood - side panels Rust-Oleum 2X blossom white or gloss white 120- and 240-grit sandpaper or sanding pads 8 small steel angle braces 8 white plastic corner brackets* Small panel pins 16mm wood screws 5-minute epoxy glue* DIY TIP: Wood glue Buy a sheet of 16mm PG Bison SupaWood and you will Wood ďŹ ller be able to make all three tables from one sheet.

TOOLS Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Jigsaw + scroll saw blade Orbital sander Biscuit joiner and biscuits Hammer Tape measure Pencil *If not using biscuit joiner

Use PG Bison 16mm SupaWood and PAR pine to make these decorative tables for your home. You can have all the timber and board cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse, and buy everything you need at the same time.

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200mm

This is a full-size template that you can print out and use to cut out the design. Once printed out, rub a soft pencil over the lines at the back of the pace and then place the printed sheet onto the wood to transfer the design. Flip over to complete the 400mm wide strip of wood for the front, back and sides.

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HERE’S HOW: 1. Transfer the template design onto the 4 pieces of 150 x 400mm front, back and side sections.

2. Use a drill/driver and an 8mm wood bit to make holes in all the areas to be cut out. This will allow you to insert the jigsaw blade.

DIY TIP: Place a scrap piece of board underneath each board when drilling the holes, as this prevents the wood from tearing and chipping on the back side.

3. Using a scroll saw blade, which is thinner than a standard cutting blade, start to cut out all the sections. If you’ve never done this before you might consider joining a DIY Divas Advanced Power Tool Workshop.

DIY TIP: Work out from the drilled holes to get as close to the pencil line as possible. You will need to move the jigsaw around quite a bit to manoeuvre around the areas to be cut.

SAFETY FIRST: - Always know where the power cord is when cutting. It should be behind you at all times.

- Place the piece to be cut over the top of a workbench that can be opened to allow you to cut without having to move around too much.

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4. After cutting the decorative sections sand with 120- and then 180- or 240-grit sandpaper. I used my Dremel MultiTool with sanding disk to get into the small sections, but you can also do it by hand by wrapping the sandpaper around a pencil or similar.

5. Because SupaWood is super-absorbent along the cut edges, I sprayed all the edges first. It took about 4 to 5 coats before the paint started to stay on the surface. Once dry, I removed the paint from the front and back.

6. I used a biscuit joiner and biscuits to join the decorative sides to the legs. Don’t worry if you don’t have a biscuit joiner, as I will also show you how to attach the legs using brackets.

7. On each of the legs draw around the edge of the sides to mark where the mount a front/back or side section and then use the biscuit joiner to cut out a slot.

Leave this step out if you are going to be attaching the side with brackets - see image left.

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8. Glue one section in place and clamp until the glue dries. If you have more than one clamp you can complete a front and back section at the same time. If you don’t own clamps large enough - duct tape will hold everything together nicely, but be careful not to let the tape touch any painted areas.

9. I’m working a bit backwards here but forget to mention that you need to chamfer the bottom of the legs. Use a sander and 120-grit sandpaper to add a slightly angled edge on all sides.

Use 240-grit to sand the legs nice and smooth.

10. Once the front and back are glued you can then add the sides by slotting and gluing everything together.

You will note that this leg doesn’t have a slot cut for mounting the side section.

Boo Boo... I had to cut the slide slots after mounting the decorative panel in the front/ back.

11. Before adding the top filler strip, sand it smooth and then paint as per the decorative strips. Let paint soak into the edges, which will be visible on the front of the table.

Once dry, use glue and a few panel pins to secure in place. The fillers line up with the front edge of the decorative strips - all around.

Ignore the fact that the table in the pic right - is painted, as this will be the last step.

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12. Before adding the top, paint the edges as you did for the decorative sides and then sand the top. Use angle brackets to attach the top to the table base.

FINISHING I used Rust-Oleum 2X satin blossom white to spray the entire table. Only spray light, even coats from a distance of 30 cm away. If you have the can too close it will cause the paint to run, and you don’t want that.

Let each coat dry completely before spraying on a second and third coat.

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August Home Publishing

SHELVES

diy project

stylish

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You don’t have to be an expert to make great-looking built-in storage shelves. Just start with a basic frame, add the shelves and trim, and tie it all together.

There’s something special about what built-in shelves do to a room. Making the units part of the wall lends a sense of style that the average free-standing shelf unit just doesn’t have. However, built-in usually means custom, and unless you have more-than-average DIY experience, a custom unit is not a project to be taken lightly. This built-in looks every bit as good as one you would pay thousands for, yet the total cost works out at around R2000.

The heart of this project are three basic rectangular frames. To add depth and style to the look, we built wider, deeper cases in the centre flanked by narrower, shallower frames on the sides.

Warehouse). It’s relatively easy to cut and install the pieces using a mitre saw, nails, and No More Nails adhesive.

MEASURE UP Measure up the area where the shelves are to be placed to determine the total size. This measurement will assist you in drawing up a rough diagram for width, depth and height of the units, so that you can pop into Builders Warehouse and have all your timber and board cut to size.

MAKE THE BASE

Bases, which are really just rectangles made from PAR pine, glue, and screws, serve two purposes here: - First, they elevate the frames to allow base moulding to be added for a finished look.

- Second, they allow you to level and ‘plumb’ the project easily, so that the frame will sit straight and even.

WRAP WITH MOULDING At Builders Warehouse we found a skirting that wraps around the bottom. Fitting the moulding to the corners was easy with just a few cuts on a mitre saw.

TOP WITH TRIM To create the crown at the top of the frames the trim is built up from separate pieces (also available from Builders

Find the straightest 100mm wide PAR pine you can and then cut the boards to size to make up your base. As you can see, you’ll need nine boards in all to create the irregularly shaped base. After you make the cuts, the base can be assembled easily using glue and screws.

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Determine exactly where on the wall you’d like your bookcases to be, and remove the skirting in that area. If you don’t want to cut out the skirting you can make allowances for this on the actual width of the base - making sure the base is then as high as the skirting.

Pre-drill pilot holes, and drive screws down through the bottoms of the frames into the bases below.

Place the base - making sure it’s level - and secure it to the wall by driving screws through the back and into wall plugs (predrilled out and inserted) behind it.

The base is already firmly mounted to the wall and to secure the frames, add angle braces to the top of the frames to secure into pre-drilled holes fitted with wall plugs.

You won’t be able to see these after the moulding and trim has been added.

ASSEMBLE THE FRAMES

Use shorter screws - or plastic threaded rods and nuts - to connect the frames to each other.

ADD MOULDING AND TRIM

Having all the board cut to size means that you only have to assemble the frames.

The choice is your on whether or not to drill out holes for adjustable shelves, or drill through the sides and countersink to have fitted shelves.

You can easily disguise the screws with screw caps or self-adhesive covers.

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Install the moulding and trim with No More Nails adhesive, a hammer and a few panel pins. You will need to mitre all the corners of the moulding with a mitre saw.

The top moulding extends above the bookcases, so it’s a good idea to add pine blocks to the top of the cases to support these pieces. The blocks can be cut to size from scrap and fastened to the top with No More Nails and a few panel pins.

Fill any screw holes with wood filler, sand smooth and touch them up with paint later on. Any joins can be sealed with acrylic sealer, which can easily be painted over and leaves a seamless finish.

A trip to Buildings Warehouse will provide you with all the tools and materials that you will need to make stylish storage shelves for your home.

You can make these storage shelves as small or as large as space allows.

YOU WILL NEED: Board - You can choose PG Bison 16mm SupaWood for the frames if you want to paint them, or you can use PG Bison MelaWood, BisonLam or SupaLam. Remember when using MelaWood, BisonLam or SupaLam that you will need to add an edging strip to the fronts of the units.

Mouldings and trim PAR pine for the base Wood filler No More Nails adhesive Acrylic sealer and caulking gun Panel pins Fischer wall plugs and screws Pop-on or self-adhesive screw covers TOOLS Carpenter’s square Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Countersink bit Mitre saw Hammer Spirit level Plumb bob Tape measure and pencil

Moulding and trim can be found in the timber section of your local store. There is a wide selection of designs and styles to choose from. These are available in pine, SupaWood or extruded polystyrene.

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There’s no rule that says you have to ďŹ ll a whole wall with built-ins. This shorter unit takes up less space in a room and is just as striking.

Choose your own size and shape

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http://diywardrobes.co.uk

CHOOSING THE RIGHT HINGE FOR YOUR KITCHEN OR BEDROOM CABINETS

Assembling and installing your own kitchen and bedroom cabinets allows you to design and build as and when you can afford to. But there’s one element of these cabinets that confuse many a DIYer and that’s the type of hinge to use.

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http://diywardrobes.co.uk

When taking on the task of fitting new closet or kitchen cabinet doors you will need to fit Euro or concealed hinges.

These modern hinges are designed to make fitting and door adjustment easy but can be confusing if you don’t know which one to use.

The reason these hinges is so popular is the fact that, as the name implies, they offer a concealed hinge design that allows for a perfect finish to kitchen and bedroom cabinets and cupboards.

The confusion in choosing a concealed hinge comes from the fact that these hinges look very similar in design.

They have the same mounting shape, use the same number of screws, and can all be adjusted in exactly the same way. But there is one big difference between them... how they open and close a door.

FULL OVERLAY

HALF OVERLAY

DIY TIPS: You can choose to buy the cheaper version of these hinges for a cabinet that doesn’t get used that often, or opt for a strengthened-steel version that is more expensive but also stronger.

The heavier the door the more hinges you will need to support the weight, and the better quality the hinges should be.

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Builders Warehouse stocks a wide selection of hinges for cabinets.

INSET

1 FULL OVERLAY Where cabinet or closet doors are designed to sit flush with the side edge, these are known as full overlay hinges.

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When closed, the door is aligned with the side frame of the cabinet.

2 HALF OVERLAY When you are placing cabinets next to each other and the door needs to sit halfway across the cabinet next to it, a half overlay hinges allows for this.

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3 INSET Doors that are designed to sit flush with the side edges are inset doors, in other words, these doors do not sit on top of the cabinet frame, but rather inside the frame.

- HOW TO MOUNT THESE HINGES All three above hinges are mounted in exactly the same way on the door.

This is done by using a 35mm Forstner or MAD bit to drill a hole that is 5mm in from the edge of the door and 12mm deep.

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This is the correct depth for most concealed hinges, but it’s easy to adjust the depth as you work by test-fitting the hinge into the drilled hole.

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• Today’s modern concealed hinges are designed to be more than just concealed.

• Integrated ‘soft-closing mechanism’ for convenience in closing hinged doors.

• Functional ‘push to open’ for doors that open easily and reliably at the mere press of a finger.

• Classic design that blends with the most up-to-date kitchen.

Click here for a practical video that shows how to adjust concealed hinges for perfect fitting.

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http://www.homeadvisorhomesource.com/explaining-concealed-kitchen-cabinet-hinges/

There are concealed hinge designs for almost any application, with openings ranging from 95o to 170o to allow for any situation and placement.

glorious gardening When Tim Jones decided it was time to build a swimming pool, this time around he built a natural swimming pool. Two previous DIY pools provided a fair amount of knowledge and he put this to good use in designing a natural pool to ďŹ t into his garden.

The basic principle of how a natural swimming pool works is, in order to keep the water clear, you need to deprive the algae which is always present in the water of nutrients. This is achieved by the large number of plants and large areas of gravel that the water ows through.

The plants and the bacteria that colonise their roots and stones, compete with the algae keeping the nitrate and phosphate levels low. Low levels of these nutrients means the algae simply cannot bloom and the water stays clear.

The idea of natural pools is not new and they do seem to be gaining popularity, however, getting reliable and useful information on how to build a natural swimming pool turned out to be quite a challenge.

Whilst there are quite a number of sites which showcase the projects completed by pool contractors, we found they were very skimpy on details. This lack of available info is something which I am sure will change as natural swimming pools become 41

more commonplace, especially here in South Africa, although I suspect most experts will probably keep the info close to their chests.

A book that did help a bit was “Natural Swimming Pools: A Guide to Building” by Michael Littlewood.

However, I found it lacked much of the nitty-gritty on how to actually build a pool.

So after much reading both along and between the lines here are the basic principles for what I believe will make a successful natural swimming pool:

DIGGING OUT AND BUILDING

In terms of physical construction we decided on using standard 190mm wide masonry blocks, reinforced with steel rods and concrete in-fill. The reason for this is we wanted to have narrow as possible walls, and this was the only way I could think of achieving this without going the shuttered reinforced concrete route.

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We wanted the swimming area to be close to deck level and decided to terrace the pool with the planted sections stepping down to the garden level. This way there was some continuity between the deck / pool level and the grass lower down.

One thing we did pick up from other designs was that the water is almost always flows from under the planted area up and towards the deeper swimming area. In our design this wasn’t really possible, but since we couldn’t find any logical reason way it would make a difference reversing the flow, we decided to try it out in reverse.

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PLASTER AND FIBREGLASS RESIN

To waterproof the structure a glass-fibre reinforced resin system again proved to be a cost-effective solution. Prior to applying the fibreglass resin, the block-work was plastered to the desired shape and detail and allowed to harden.

Because our garden was not big enough to accommodate a large organically shaped pool and also there is a significant level difference between the floor/deck and garden level, we decided to opt for a more contemporary design.

The total size should be as big as possible (Littlewood refers to a minimum area of 50 sq metres – we broke this rule and opted for an area of 25 sq metres due to space constraints).

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PREPARING FOR PLANTING

The planted area needs to be about the same surface area as the swimming area (i.e.. 50 / 50), while the swimming area needs to be as deep as possible, at least 1.5m (increases volume of water without increasing area exposed to sunlight). The water needs to circulate slowly but constantly through the system.

In order to get water to flow through the gravel of the planted area we placed three slotted 40mm pipes running the entire length of the lower pond. These join and then feed into a stainless steel filter box (actually an old dishwasher with a washing machine drum inside). This ensures a steady slow flow of water through the gravel and the plant roots, keeping the beneficial bacteria happy and fed, and the water clear.

Water needs to be well oxygenated (plants and/or water action) You need to provide maximum surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonise i.e. roots and gravel beds.

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A large part of any natural swimming pool is obviously the water plants and we were very fortunate that my lovely Mum was easily persuaded to start collecting and cultivating plants. I think she even started collecting before we had started digging the pool. She has very green ďŹ ngers and very soon had quite a collection of plants happily growing in some temporary containers.

We had to create shallow and deeper sections to accommodate the different plant types, but it worked out well in the end as it makes it all the more interesting.

RIGHT: Some of the fun things we included was a pool window (at the request of my 8 year old), rainwater top up system with level control and a pool light. The pool has been running for almost 2 months now and apart from one week in the ďŹ rst month when it was pea green, the water has been perfectly clear. Slight variations in colour do occur after rain but are hardly noticeable.

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ABOVE: Sketchup drawing showing the planned shape prior to me drawing up the final details. The physical sizes are as follows:

POOL DIMENSIONS • Main swimming area : 2.4 m x 4.4 m – depth 2.4m with a continuous step along the deck side.

• Intermediate pond: 1 m x 2.2 m – depth 1.2 m • Lower pond : 0.8 m wide x +-10 m long – depth 0.6 m but varies from 0.1 m to about 0.4 m with the gravel inside.

Total volume 25 500 litres In terms of costs, because of the additional planted area and the plants, the initial capital outlay is obviously much higher. However in terms of running costs there is obviously no comparison to a conventional pool and there definitely is no comparing the finished product!

To circulate the water we used a Hailea H9000 submersible pond pump which delivers about 5000 l/h. This means the water is turned over every 5 hours or so but the energy consumption is only 105W. Total water consumption (apart from rainwater overflow) has been an average of 150 litres per month, not bad for the height of summer .

Tim Jones is a Civil Engineer with over 15 years civil and structural design experience.

Currently he is the owner of Inconsult Engineers which provides civil and structural consulting services to a variety of Clients. Inconsult Engineers are based in Port Elizabeth, South Africa.

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Natural swimming pools are gaining popularity locally, as many South Africans realise not only the money-saving benefits of this type of pool, but also the environmental issues.

ECO POOLS

Eco Pools was founded by Dr. Jerome Davis. Dr Davis has been involved with the aquatic world since 1983 when he worked on a fish farming kibbutz in Israel. Since then Dr davis has been working in the field of commercial and scientific aquaculture around the world for the last 30 years.

Dr Davis holds a B.Sc. in Agricultural Science (Natal), an Honours Degree in Ichthyology (Rhodes), an MSc in Aquaculture (Rhodes) and a Ph.D. in Bioengineering (Royal University of Gent, Belgium).

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Natural swimming pools offer: low maintenance; low electricity costs; perfect water quality all the time; higher temperatures; year-round enjoyment; wildlife oasis.

These pools are also good for our health due to the fact that most of the water we encounter in our modern daily lives is effectively dead. It is amazing that with all we know, that people still use Chlorine to kill everything in the water. So what would you rather dip your beautiful sacred body into: chemically poisoned H2O or energy infused, life sustaining water?

Natural swimming pools are purposely built to emulate lakes and ponds as they occur in nature.

The simple dierence between a natural pool and a swimming pool is a conventional pool uses chemicals such as chlorine to kill bacteria, whereas a natural pool works with nature to cleanse the water organically.

POOLS BY NATURE

AQUA-DESIGN has pioneered Natural Swimming Pool technology in South Africa. We oer a product that is tried and tested. Our designs are cutting edge and surpass anything available internationally as we have developed unique secret methods to ensure that our pools work in the warm and sunny South African climate.

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A FEW THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT A NATURAL SWIMMING POOL • A natural swimming pool is designed with two elements: the pool itself and the plant filtration.

The plants are not normally part of the pool area and are situated alongside the pool with a wall in-between, or can be in a different part of the garden altogether and linked via pipes.

NYMPHOIDES INDICA - Water Snowflake Round, pale green, waterlily-like leaves bear clusters of small, fringed, white flowers which emerge from underneath each leaf.

There are many varieties of plants that are suitable for planting in a natural swimming pool, all of which are available locally.

• Natural swimming pools are designed to be self-cleaning as far as possible, which means that they require occasional maintenance such as cleaning out leaf skimmers and the occasional vacuuming of the pool section.

• Whereas conventional pools use chemicals to kill algae and bacteria, a natural swimming pools is stripped of nutrients by the plants leaving nothing behind for algae or bacteria.

• You don’t have to worry about mosquitoes as a natural swimming pool is not a stagnant environment. The water in natural swimming pools is highly oxygenated and the ecosystem created in a natural swimming pool supports a diversity of predators that eat mosquito larvae.

• Natural pools are not only environmentally healthy, they are also energy efficient and save you money. Smaller pumps are used and many designs 60% less electricity.

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TYPHA MINIMA - Dwarf Bulrush This dwarf selection produces small, round, dark brown flower spikes and delicate, narrow leaves. Much less vigorous than it’s larger cousin, making it a charming specimen for a natural swimming pool.

http://www.onekindesign.com/2012/07/24/19-incredible-natural-swimming-pools/

THALIA DEALBATA Water Canna A bold accent plant of tropical appearance with striking lanceolate blue-green foliage, dusted with white powder. Clusters of purple berries are carried on tall stems well above the foliage.

MISCANTHUS SENENSIS ‘ZEBRINUS’ - Zebra Grass A stately and attractive grass with bands of yellow splashes on the arching, green foliage.

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DIY YOUR OWN SWIMMING POOL

What happens when an ordinary homeowner decides to Read on and find out the story of his amazin 52

o build his own pool? ng project.

This is the story of how I decided to build my own swimming pool. I started visit pool forums to ask members what it would take to undertake a project of this enormity. The general consensus of the group was that I was certifiably nuts (well, not quite in those words).

Nevertheless ... I decided to go ahead and do it anyway. Well … sort of. I wasn’t planning to pull out a shovel and just start digging. After all, that’s what I have a 10year old and 8-year old for!

I would have never thought it possible to undertake something of this magnitude (the most ambitious building project I’ve done), but after talking to a lot of people, it just made more and more sense to go this route.

Below is a picture of how my garden looked before I started this project.

I didn’t start out one morning and decide, “Gee, I think I’ll build a pool today.” Quite the opposite – I fully intended to find an experienced and reputable pool builder and have them build me the pool of my dreams. In fact, I talked to eight pool builders. And after spending months doing so, I discovered two things:

- I’m not getting as much pool for my money as I thought I’d get.

- Building a pool is not rocket science.

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For me, I decided I was going to figure out what I needed to do to build a topnotch quality pool, ripping out all the extra overhead that I did not care to incur, then pour the money into the best subcontractors I could find to build me the best quality pool that I could... Simple as that.

Step 1 Design the pool

After meeting with various pool builders and seeing countless pool drawings and designs, I had a fairly good understanding of what can and cannot be done. Then it was just a matter of putting it down on paper. I came up with a design that was a conglomeration of the best designs of everything I had seen from the pool builders I met with.

It didn’t take long, and I tweaked it over time until I came up with the current design that you see here.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for anything that you do with the information contained in this article. I cannot and will not guarantee that the information is even correct. What I’m attempting to do here is to just document what I did – not that it was right or wrong – but that it just happened and it was what I chose to do. There will be differences in building regulations, so you will need to obtain approval before you do anything.

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If there is anything that I’ve learne how to do everything for that task people who do. Its as simple as th will go a long ways. I have come to pools, and have come to

ed about undertaking any task, its this: You don’t have to know all the details of k. You just need to know where to get the information or know where to find the hat. More than anything, it takes motivation and desire. If you’ve got that, you o learn a great deal talking with people who know a thing or two about building o rely on them to help me through the various phases of building a pool.

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Step 2 Excavation The excavators that I subcontracted were extremely knowledgeable about pool excavation.

The first order of business was dismantling the front gate that led to the back. Unless you plan to dig out for your pool using a spade - make sure there’s enough space to get equipment to where the hole is to be dug!

Before they actually started digging, the crew chief asked me what the elevation of the pool needed to be. I thought to myself, “Hmmm, I have no idea what he’s talking about.” I suddenly felt very foolish.

I couldn’t tell my sub what he needed to know in order to do his job. The excavation is the foundation for a quality pool. If the excavation is not done properly, it leads to problems later.

Typically you want to allow a 5 to 6mm slope for your decking so that water drains away from the pool.

While the crew chief started excavating, the assistants started pounding the metal stakes in the ground all around the pool.

These stakes will be used to hold up the forms (using thin strips of plywood) that will surround the perimeter of the pool. They drove the stakes into the ground 2,5 metres away from the layout line, which was 20cm larger than the original pool line.

The assistants used surveying equipment to make sure the top of the forms were all perfectly even and level in elevation. You want a perfectly flat and level pool.

At this stage you need to consult with a Structural Engineer who will be able to advise how much reinforcing will be required for the size of the pool.

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Step 3 Plumbing and pipes The plumbing sub is responsible for all the pool equipment and PVC plumbing necessary.

I’ve learned that the typical way of thinking is often to get the biggest and most powerful pump that can be afforded, but this unnecessary (higher monthly electricity bills).

To determine the correct pump size the process involves calculating the total “resistance” that the plumbing system exerts on the pumps. For more information on this you can refer to this article, which requires conversion from Imperial to Metric.

Next was the trenching for the inlet/outlet pipes. They ran the trench from the equipment area over to the edge of the pool right along the edge of the house.

Ideally, a trench should be 20cm deep, but you will need to check with regional guidelines on this , or ask someone who knows how deep the pipes need to be laid to conform to building regulations here in South Africa.

You also need to plan for placing the pool pump and check local regulations for where - and where not - this can be placed.

RIGHT: If you refer back to the original article you will see that this pool incorporates other elements and not just a pool. The completed design has a waterfall, a spa pool, heater and skimmers. If you are only looking to build a pool, base your research on this.

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Step 4 Reinforcing The steel subs are responsible for putting in the steel reinforcement bars (or rebar) in the pool to increase the tensile strength of the pool shell. Without the steel, the pool shell would be much more apt to crack under the force of the water and soil against it. Concrete has great strength in compression, but it has little tensile strength.

Steel has great tensile strength, so the two are combined whenever large amounts of concrete is present. The combination of the two is called reinforced concrete.

The steel subs use the plans drawn up by the structural engineer and lay the steel according to the schedule. The structural engineering plans are important because they let the steel sub know what kind of steel reinforcements are necessary at each location throughout pool due to extra surcharging forces.

Step 5 Electrical The electrical sub is responsible for hooking up all the electrical connections and components necessary to operate all the pool equipment and any other auxiliary electrical components you may want (extra lights, outdoor outlets, switches, controllers, ...). They are also responsible for insuring that the installation electrical components meet the minimum safety requirements and whatever other local requirements.

After the conduit is laid down, the electricians need to pull the feeder wires/ branch wires through the conduit. The main conduit run from the main service panel will run along the under lower eave of the house until it hits this junction area, where a junction box will be installed. From there it will go underground, with no more than 360 degrees of bends until it hits the equipment area.

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Step 6 Shotcrete Shotcrete is the material that forms the shell of your pool. Depending on the size of the pool you plan, as the pool gets larger and deeper (for diving pools), the minimum thicknesses for shotcrete increase based on the structural plan drawn up by the Structural Engineer.

The top 15cm portion of the pool shell (that forms the lip around the perimeter of the pool) is called the Bond Beam. The bond beam is 30cm thick - twice as thick as the pool walls - and it adds extra support to increase the structural integrity of the pool shell.

Shaping is done using a long at hand trowel-like instrument. Its pretty amazing how fast the shotcrete dries.

Cracking is the most common problem with using concrete. And concrete shrinkage during the curing process is the main cause of cracking. As new concrete hardens and dries, it shrinks. This is due to the evaporation of moisture from the concrete.

Shrinkage cracks occur when the concrete dries too rapidly. The ďŹ rst 24 hours is when most shrinkage cracks occur. Keeping new concrete wet insures that the curing process occurs at the proper rate. Keeping the concrete wet during the critical curing process insures that the concrete retains moisture as the concrete gains strength and it delays drying shrinkages until the concrete is strong enough to resist it.

Typically after the shotcrete has been applied, the homeowner is required to hose down the pool shell 3-4 times a day for 5-7 days. This slows the curing process down, and prevents the surface from developing even more cracks. They say that after concrete is placed, its strength increases very quickly for a period of 3 - 7 days and that it reaches 80% of its full strength after 3 days of curing.

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7. Filling up the pool It was about 6pm when I started it. I truly had no idea how long it was going to take the pool to fill. The only thing I wanted to avoid was having it get full in the middle of the night. The last thing I needed to look forward to was a flooded garden in the morning. I knew it was going to be hard to estimate it until it was close to getting full.

What an ordeal this pool filling turned out to be. I couldn’t believe that the pool was now actually filled. The water was pretty dirty, but still, it was water. Now all the remained was the startup.

You can find plenty of information on the Internet for the correct procedure for pool startup. The guys at HTH have a great website filled with plenty of hints and tips for setting up a new pool.

8. Cleanup Cleanup is a formal phase of the pool building process that a lot of people don’t seem to appreciate. It represents the final opportunity to repair and restore the garden after months of getting trashed and abused. This is important for prepping for landscaping.

Final Note: This is the only comprehensive article I have come across that offers a detailed guide on building your own swimming pool.

However, the writer is based in the U.S and there will be differences when it comes to local guidelines and regulations. This article is not intended to provide a precise stepby-step but rather offer the opportunity to see that building your own swimming pool can be done.

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If your home is starting to show signs of rising damp, here’s how to solve the problem: 1. Remove any paint completely back to a cement/plaster surface.

2. Wash with Polycell Sugar Soap, rinse and allow to dry.

3. Remove and repair poor plaster with Polycell Masonry Patching Plaster.

4. Apply 3 coats of Plascon Dampseal, allowing 24 hours drying time between applications. Thin the ďŹ rst coat 30% with Mineral Turpentine.

5. If required, skim the wall with Terraco EZ Skim (TER 1100 OR TER 1200) for a perfectly smooth surface.

6. Finish with your chosen Plascon topcoat, such as Double Velvet, Cashmere or Polvin.

YOU WILL NEED:

WATERPROOF YOUR HOME THIS WINTER

image: getty images

Winter is the perfect time to ensure that your home is protected from the elements, and to make it easy for you, Plascon has put together a Waterproofing range that combines five existing products and two brand new products: Wanting to ensure buildings are protected from rising damp, leaks and the myriad of other troubles water can cause, Plascon has formulated an entire waterproofing range that consists of Dampseal, Multiseal, Brickseal, Tankseal and Roofseal along with two new products Gelseal and Wallseal.

“Rather than waiting to see whether a building was watertight, Plascon developed a range of products that allowed people a chance to do it right the first time and protect buildings from any inconveniences caused by water damage.” says Plascon Brand Manager, Mareta Malan. “The range provides products encompassing all the essential aspects of any building making it the go-to range for waterproofing.”

The two new products, Gelseal and Wallseal, were developed to address the needs for an affordable and versatile waterproofing product and an exterior broadwall-waterproofing product, which can be tinted into hundreds of pastel colours from the Plascon’s Inspired Colour System. Plascon Gelseal, formulated with a unique gel structure, makes application and film build easier especially when working with difficult and inconvenient angles.

GELSEAL – This easy-to-use waterproofing or crack sealing system - for parapets, roofs and cracked walls - has great flexibility and low water absorption to prevent a way in for water. Plascon Gelseal has a free waterproofing membrane included.

WALLSEAL – This washable and durable acrylic waterbased wall coating has great resistance against water and moisture and is flexible allowing it to expand and contract over cracked surfaces offering long-lasting protection.

DAMPSEAL – For problems with rising and penetrating damp on interior and exterior, Dampseal is a water barrier coating that effectively seals and protects surfaces by preventing the growth of mould and the movement of water and dissolved salts in the substrate.

MULTISEAL – When it’s not just one material that needs waterproofing, Multiseal is the ideal multi-purpose, membrane-free waterproofing system that is hard-wearing, durable, easy to use and very flexible. Use it on primed galvanised roofs, concrete, vertical wall, cementitious tiles and for intricate waterproofing tasks.

BRICKSEAL – If you like the look of exposed brick or cement, but still want to ensure that your walls are protected, this silicone-based water repellent is idea for sealing bricks and stones without changing the natural appearance. Use on unpainted bricks, stone, concrete, cement plaster and other masonry materials.

TANKSEAL – This self-priming bituminous coating is highly water-resistant and non-toxic and is for use on internal surfaces of water tanks and sealing of water features and gutters. It’s highly durable and versatile and requires no thinning. Available only in black.

ROOFSEAL – Ensuring that the roof over your head keeps you dry, Roofseal is a superior performing product with UV-resistance and an effective two-part waterproofing system for sealing rods, parapet walls, flashings, roof screws, joints and hairline cracks. Used in conjunction with Plascon waterproofing membrane, it is available in white, charcoal, green, slate grey, tile red.

n u F e h t Joi n

More great projects for you to make and take home Beginners & Advanced Workshops Basic Electrical and Plumbing Workshops Basic Welding | Career Workshops Saturday & Sunday mornings from 09:00 to 12:00

www.DIY-DIVAS.co.za

DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL TOOL HAMPERS.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU TACKLED THE PROJECT.

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za

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IMAGE SOURCE: INMAGINE.COM

IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF