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Home-Dzine IDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME
August 2013
Craft • DIY • Food • Green • Home Decor & Design
a word or two
With spring just around the corner, this issue looks at rooms in the home and do-able DIY projects you can tackle to give your home a new look - without spending a fortune. Having made most of my own furniture I love the dining tables featured this month, and will definitely be making one of my own... how about you? Grab your tools and some paint and get crafty - and don’t forget to send me some pics of your finished projects.
Janice
Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.
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DINING TABLE Gorgeous tables you can make COLOURFUL KITCHEN Colour combo INSPIRING BEDROOMS Create the illusion of space and opulence TIPS ON MAKING BEDROOM FURNITURE ON THE CHEAP Furniture manufacture
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DIY STORAGE BED Make your own bed! CREATIVE IDEAS WITH TRELLIS & LATTICE
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FINALLY... A lawnmower that makes life easier! FOR THE GUYS! Make an outdoor cooler box DIY CONCRETE EDGING
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VivaLux.co.za
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inspiring design This month, I am motivated to show you beautiful rooms that can be achieved with a few basic power tools and supplies from your local Builders Warehouse. Whether you are looking to refresh a room for the arrival of spring, or to make furniture for your home, on the following pages you will ďŹ nd plenty of ideas to get you started.
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affordable
DINING TABLE
Making your own dining room table can easily save you thousands of Rand, not to mention that you can make this table to ďŹ t into your dining room - no matter what the size. Once you have made the table, making the benches is a breeze and you will soon be sitting down at your very own DIY dining table. 6
DIY TIP
Sand all the pieces before you assemble For this dining table that is 1500mm long x 900mm wide and 800mm high you will need: 4 x 100 x 100mm pine cut to 780mm* 2 x 77mm pine cut to 1260mm** 2 x 77mm pine cut to 660mm 6 x 150mm pine cut to 1500mm** 3 x 150mm pine cut to 820mm *Adjust the height for a lower/higher table **Adjust the length of the table
Join sections together using Pockethole Jig, dowels or Biscuit Joiner. Or use steel angle brackets.
To make a pine dining table you will ďŹ nd a selection of PAR pine at your local Builders Warehouse. Select the best pieces, preferably straight pieces without knots or missing chunks, which will spoil the ďŹ nished project.
BUY EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR THIS PROJECT AT YOUR LOCAL BUILDERS WAREHOUSE
TOOLS: Jigsaw and clean-cut blades Orbital Sander + 120/240-grit sanding pads Drill/Driver and assorted bits 7
1. Assemble the top 40
820 150 900
1500
Place the planks side by side, best side down and without any gaps between the planks, on a at, level surface. Position the cross-supports on top, leaving a 40mm gap on both ends, and secure these with 3.5 x 30mm wood screws.
2. Assemble the base Join the front, back and side aprons to the legs. For this you can use a Kreg Jig, dowels, biscuits and biscuit joiner or steel angle brackets. The front of each apron is ush with the front edge of each leg.
3. Attach base to top Position the frame on top of the table, leaving a gap of 20mm around all sides. The easiest way to attach the base to the top is with angle brackets. Use 2 brackets on the short sides and 3 brackets on the front and back. Attach the brackets to the aprons and underside of the top.
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4. Add support To ensure stability and strength, add corner braces cut from pine offcuts for each corner. Use steel angle brackets to attach to the legs and side aprons.
GOOD TO KNOW If you don’t own a Pockethole Jig or a Biscuit Joiner, and find dowels a bit fiddly, using steel corner braces is a simple way to join and secure sections of timber and board. 5. Finishing It’s always a good idea to sand individual sections before you assemble. Use an orbital or random orbit sander and 120-grit sanding pads to remove any roughness and then sand with 240-grit sanding pads for a smooth finish. Once assembled, I like to sand again with 400-grit sandpaper, for a silky-smooth finish that is especially important for a dining table.
Plascon Woodcare Ultra Varnish is a polyurethane varnish that is ideal for a dining table that is used on a daily basis and needs protection from occasional spills. The product is available in a satin or gloss finish. If you want to add a stain to the table, do this before applying Plascon Woodcare Ultra Varnish. 9
This kitchen dining table is constructed in the same way as the table shown on the previous pages. The only difference is the shortened length and addition of cross-pieces on the legs to allow for a shelf storage area. Instead of an open timber top, the table top can be clad with aluminium or brushed stainless steel sheeting, 0.5mm thick.
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If you are able to get your hands on reclaimed timber, this trestle-style dining table is made from old pine shipping pallets. You can still see the knots and natural imperfections that make this table and matching bench one of a kind. Buy online at West Elm 11
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This trestle-style dining table is made by laminating (gluing) sections together to create the blocks for the table top and supports. Glue is applied to the timber and it is tightly clamped until the glue has dried.
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Today’s modern kitchens are anything but dreary and bland. These are kitchens you want to spend time in; they are living spaces where the family can gather together to catch up on the day’s events and happenings. Whether you want to install a brand new kitchen or give your old kitchen a makeover, there are a few tips to keep in mind when planning your dream kitchen: a layout that not only works • Consider well, but that also improves the ways that family and friends can interact.
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• •
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Today’s kitchens are open-plan onto adjoining dining and living spaces. Plan the space to have plenty of natural light and perhaps access to outdoor entertainment areas. Replacing wall cabinetry with shelving or windows creates open kitchen space. Eat in kitchens that incorporate a countertop for casual or informal dining allow family and friends to sit and chat with the home chef without intruding on the space. It’s also a great place for the kids to sit and do their homework.
http://www.loop-d.net/dandelion.html
Add colour to your kitchen with painted walls and cabinetry.
modern kitchens
Don’t be afraid to experiment with bold colours.
pantries are popular for colour to • Walk-in • Incorporate storing groceries and allowing easier update a kitchen to a access.
• •
Look at replacing old appliances with modern energy efficient models. Stainless steel remains the popular choice and manufacturers are providing more flush-mount options. Be more aware of the materials used in a kitchen installation for renovation. Choosing locally sourced, recycled materials, and reclaimed items has a profound impact on the overall ecological footprint of your home.
trendy space. Don’t be afraid to try bold colours.
At the end of the day, you want to design a kitchen that works for your family and your lifestyle. Careful planning and you’ll soon be on your way to transforming your dream kitchen into a reality.
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inspiring bedrooms
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Transforming your small bedroom into something more comforting and grand does not require special feats of magic. It will, however, require the use of large mirrors, subtle lighting and a few pieces of nearly invisible furniture. And you can expand the appeal of your bedroom even further with a few new tricks and some very simple ideas that cause small rooms to appear larger than they are.
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source: home depot
Add colour Although dark colours tend to make a room appear smaller, by combining dark and light colour combinations and a couple of bedside cabinets with a reflective finish, you can create the optical illusion of a larger space by making the background recede. of purple are consider colours of royalty and are used • Shades frequently in rooms to add a sense of opulence and richness. In this
room, walls are painted with Plascon Double Velvet in Woodvine [R1-E1-2]. The velvet sheen finish reflect just the right amount of light.
the ceiling, Plascon Polvin tinted in Spiced Cognac [01-E2-2] • On adds a level of warmth and depth to the room, increasing the level of comfort.
contrast and accent, window trim, skirtings and cornice are • For painted in a crisp white. This is another example of how to up the light when decorating with darker colours.
If you’re not a fan of purple, consider a deep blue - Dusk of Day [B6-E1-2], deep red - Chestnut Filly [R4-D1-1] or green - Deep Dragon [G2-E1-1].
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Create a focal point For sheer impact, adding a dramatic headboard - or in this case a curtained canopy - instantly attracts attention and increases ‘wow’ factor. a box (sides and front panels) using 18mm SupaWood glued and screwed • Build together. Mount this onto the wall with steel angle brackets, wall plugs and screws and then top off with crown moulding.
a curtain rod inside the box. If you mount the rod on half-brackets, this will be • Fiteasier to remove when you need to take the curtain down for cleaning. for fabrics that have a luxurious look. You don’t need to spend a fortune if • Shop you shop for synthetic fabrics, but do buy something practical that can be easily cleaned and will not fade. Be on the lookout for fabrics that have a shimmering effect and reflect light.
patterns would work well in this setting by creating the impression of height • Striped and further accentuating the bed as a focal point.
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Increase the magic Never underestimate the power of lighting and mirrors. As an illusionist uses these as part of the show, you can use light and mirrors to your advantage in a small bedroom. on a gorgeous chandelier and a pair of elegant bedside lamps. Even if you • Splurge scrimp on everything else, the lighting should be dramatic and glamorous. cut mirrors and making your own frames will save you a bundle on buying • Buying a ready-made framed mirror. You will find instructions on Home-Dzine for simple ways to frame a mirror. Adding mirrors above the bedside tables instantly creates the illusion of a larger space.
bedside cabinets with Plascon Metallic Gold • Paint Paint, or with Rust-Oleum Pure Gold metallic spray paint. The reflective finish adds to the illusion. Find detailed instructions on how-to on Home-Dzine.
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Accessorize Now it’s time to up the glam factor by adding accessories. frames in • Gilded silver and gold
complement the existing finish on the bedside cabinets and fabrics. With inexpensive moulding and trim, and by having your glass cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse, you don’t have to spend a fortune for framed art.
around for • Shop affordable decor
accessories. If you can’t find what you are looking for to match the room, grab a can of RustOleum Pure Gold or Titanium Silver spray paint and create your own!
How easy was that! Just goes to show that you can have an opulent bedroom - no matter what the size and on a limited budget. 23
TIPS FOR MAKING YOUR OWN FURNITURE Get creative - make your own bedroom furniture. On the following pages we show you how to make a storage bed, but with a few basic power tools you can make all the furniture for your bedroom. And it will cost a fraction of what is costs to buy furniture in the store! When making your own bedroom furniture and accessories, a visit to your local Builders Warehouse store will provide you with everything you need to complete the project.
Timber & Board In the timber section you will ďŹ nd laminated pine shelving and PAR pine planks in 1,8 and 2,4 metre lengths and ranging in width from 300 to 600mm. Laminated pine shelving is made by joining together strips of pine to manufacture wider panels. Select pieces that are not bowed or warped and avoid any that have knots or visible joins. You can use laminated pine shelving for bookcases, shelves, and furniture that is to be stained and sealed/varnished rather than painted.
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PLYWOOD BISONBORD OSB
SUPAWOOD
PINE PG Bison SupaWood It’s important when buying SupaWood that you ensure it’s PG Bison SupaWood. There is a BIG difference between cheap, imported MDF and locally produced SupaWood. - PG Bison SupaWood is compressed under greater pressure to produce a stronger board. - Some inferior products have a ‘skin’ or layer on top that is difficult to sand smooth.
For furniture that is to be painted, SupaWood provides a smooth finish for a professional project.
- Cheaper products show visible fibres on the surface of the board, and these swell when painted - spoiling the finish.
To reduce absorbency on the cut edges, polish with 240-grit sandpaper, or rub a thin layer of wood filler over the edge and sand smooth before painting.
If you’re not sure what type of board you are buying, ask the salesperson to confirm.
You can use acrylic or oil-based paints on SupaWood. 25
PLYWOOD BISONBORD OSB
SUPAWOOD
PINE
BisonBord
OSB - Oriented Strand Board
BisonBord - or particle board - is not the same as chipboard. Used more for commercial applications, chipboard has the texture of Weetbix - and be just as crumbly.
OSB is similar to BisonBord - or particle board - but is manufactured using strands that are woven in layers to create a far stronger product - at the same price.
BisonBord, on the other hand, is far more compressed and less likely to fall apart. This is of particular importance is you are using BisonBord as the foundation or frame for a project. An inferior product will eventually fall apart at the seams. Use BisonBord for projects that will be covered or upholstered, such as headboards and ottomans, since the product shouldn’t be stained or painted and is not intended for visible finishing.
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Plywood There are various types of plywood, both for interior and exterior applications. Shutterply is commercial-grade plywood that is very affordable, but not nicely finished, so it’s also ideal for nonvisible components.
Pine or birch plywood These plywoods are faced with a thin pine or birch veneer that makes them a very affordable option when compared to buying timber of the same species.
eco friendly choice
The only downside with veneer is that special care has to be taken when sanding, so as not to sand away this 3mm veneer layer. Pine or birch plywood can be use in manufacture as a visible component, as it can be oiled, waxed, stained, sealed or varnished. Pine or birch plywood is also used extensively in the manufacture of sustainable furniture, due to the fact that it is manufactured from recycled timber ďŹ bres.
MelaWood Don’t overlook the possibilities to use MelaWood for furniture projects. Using either BisonBord or SupaWood as a substrate, a single sheet of melamineimpregnated, decor paper is bonded to the board surfaces to provides a durable, scratch and moisture resistant surface. MelaWood is suitable for medium duty vertical applications, such as door and drawer frontals, carcassing, furniture components and shelving, as well as wall cladding. MelaWood is also the ideal choice for kitchen, and built-in cupboards.
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MAKING WOOD FURNITURE THAT LASTS
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While every effort is made to offer alternatives to timber, there are still a few species of timber that are sustainable - if harvested responsibly. But keep in mind that any timber species is going to be expensive.
Probably the most affordable of woods to buy are pine, meranti and saligna. Pine, being the softest of the three, is also the cheapest. However, pine is not always the best wood to work with due to its softness. For tables and surfaces that need to be able to take everyday living, meranti or saligna are harder.
Heritage furniture wouldn’t be worth handing down to future generations if it wasn’t made of wood. There is absolutely nothing to beat the natural beauty of furniture made with genuine woods. But, unfortunately, wood is not always an option when you are working on a limited budget, so it pays to look at what hardwoods are available that won’t cost the earth.
Other reasonably priced hardwoods to consider for projects are: - Cedar - Kiaat - Poplar You will find most of these hardwoods at timber merchants and suppliers.
CHEAP & NASTY! We’ve all seen modern furniture advertised in the local newspaper - the ones advertised at a low, low price that leaves you wondering what the catch is. And believe me there will be a catch! It may look fantastic but what is the quality like on these pieces? How are retailers able sell at such a low price? Perhaps this article will inform and educate you on what to look out for to ensure you get the most for your hard earned money, and what questions to ask the sales staff.
http://www.ineedfurniture.co.za
One major difference between higher priced furniture and the cheaper (bargain) alternative - the material it is made from. Mass produced furniture is generally made from chipboard. It’s a cheap board product that is relatively light- weight and thus a popular choice for budget furniture. While many manufacturers wrap chipboard in a paper-based coating, it’s still chipboard. Common problems associated with cheaply made chipboard furniture are the connecting joints used to fit and assemble the furniture. Due to the lower density of chipboard, items such as screws can easily strip
Cheap furniture comes at a price! out the screw hole and in some cases can rip out if put under enough pressure. These are the sacrifices one makes when purchasing this low quality chipboard furniture. Given the choice, Supawood offers a number of advantages over chipboard. Whilst a little more expensive, it is still much cheaper than wood, which makes it a popular choice for furniture. Due to its higher density, SupaWood is far stronger than chipboard of the same thickness; screws and joints also fix more securely. SupaWood is also smooth because the wood fibres used are fine and uniform. This allows easier application of primer and paint, as it applies easily to the smooth surface producing an attractive finish. 31
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http://doityourselfdivas.blogspot.com
diy project - storage bed
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1900mm
500mm
300mm 609mm 609mm
Make two drawer box frames 1. Drill through the top and bottom to attach two side sections. The sections should be ush at the back. 2. Measure in 621mm from both sides and use this as a mark to place and mount the two upright dividers. 3. Attach the back beams onto the back of the drawer box frame. The top beam should be mounted in line with the bottom of the top section. MOUNT FLUSH WITH BOTTOM EDGE OF TOP SECTION
20 x 44 x 1900
BACK SIDE OF FRAME
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4. Use pocketholes, dowels, biscuits or steel braces underneath to attach the 20 x 44 x 1900mm PAR pine to the front - underneath the sides and upright dividers.
5. Repeat step 4 for the top edge.
6. Use panel pins and wood glue to add the faces onto the front of the side and upright dividers.
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7. Turn the drawer frame upside down to attach 2 of 44 x 44 x 1900mm base supports.
Make the drawers 1. Screw the base to the sides and then insert and attach the back to make the frame. 2. Measure up 150mm on both sides and at this mark attach a drawer slider support. NOTE: Because drawer sliders are not all the same, some adjustment will be required here to ensure the drawer ďŹ ts.
3.
Make up the drawer front to ďŹ t into the opening. Allow a 2mm gap all around. Screw the drawer front onto the framer and then glue a frame around the front using 6mm PG Bison SupaWood 6mm thick x 50mm wide.
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For added detail you can glue moulding or trim on the inside edge of the frame. Finally, add you choice of handle or knob.
These two drawer boxes form the base of the bed and you can adjust the width by widening or shortening the space between the two drawer boxes. In this way you can design a double, queen or king-size bed. For a single or three-quarter bed you will need to reduce the width of the boxes to ďŹ t. Mount 44 x 44mm PAR pine cross-beams between the two drawer boxes to allow ďŹ tting of a board to bridge the gap between the drawer boxes.
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Both the headboard and footboard are made separately and then attached to the drawer boxes.
http://doityourselfdivas.blogspot.com
You can make these as simple or as decorative as you wish. You will find a selection of PAR pine, moulding and trim at your local Builders Warehouse. Design the headboard and footboard to your personal style, and build up layers of timber, board and trim. Decorative feet - at the same height as the base supports - are added to finish off.
Use wood filler to fill in any gaps or holes and leave this to dry.
http://doityourselfdivas.blogspot.com
Take the time to sand all the sections properly, starting with 120-grit and an orbital sander to sand the entire assembly, and finishing with 240-grit for a smooth finish. Wipe clean with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral turpentine to remove all dust.
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Finishing For all furniture projects I prefer to use a Bosch Spray System. The PFS 65 is very easy to use and easy to clean after use. You can use the PFS system with any type of paint, but water-based paints dry quickly and you don’t have to spend as much time cleaning up afterwards. Choose a paint that is washable, such as Plascon Double Velvet. When mixing the paint for spraying, a ratio of 80% paint and 20% water in the paint pot is perfect. Apply a light first coat and allow to dry before applying additional coats. If you prefer a matt finish, or want to apply antique wax to the painted finish, paint with Plascon Polvin. Mix in exactly the same way. If you don’t have a Bosch spray system, you can use a paintbrush for detailed areas and a foam roller for flat surfaces.
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info@countryhomedesign.co.za 40
fresh design
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We know that trellis panels are a great way to add aordable accents to outdoors, but who says you can’t use trellis indoors as well? There are so many ways to use trellis or lattice panels to add interest, architectural detail, and privacy, to almost any room in the home. LEFT: Rather than close o this room, lattice panels have been framed to create a decorative opening. BELOW: Use lattice panels to add cottage detail to a plain kitchen.
BELOW: Furniture design is yet another way to incorporate trellis-work.
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Trellis is an easy way to add privacy to a garden room or patio. If you make your own trellis it becomes far cheaper than buying ready-made trellis panels. TOP: Screen o a patio with large trellis panels to keep nosey neighbours out of sight. RIGHT: Add decorative detail to a porch or garden room with trellis panels that help shade out bright sunlight.
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This past weekend was spent on transforming a pavement into a green paradise that is proving the be the envy of neighbours. Laying DuraTurf on the front pavement has turned what was a drab area into a wonderful eye-catching space that has plenty of curb appeal. More on this in next month’s issue of Home-Dzine Online. 44
glorious gardening Adding a concrete edging to your garden beds is an inexpensive way to keep lawn edges neat and beds and borders tidy. Set aside a day and pop into your local Builders Warehouse to buy everything you need for this project. Concrete edging is both decorative and functional, and if you follow the steps on the following pages, your edging will last for years and years. Concrete garden edging effectively defines garden beds, tree surrounds, and driveway curbs, their versatility enabling you to match any landscape contour. The amount of cement required for this project will vary depending on the size of the area you want to fill, but one bag will do plenty!
YOU WILL NEED: - Saw for cutting board - Hammer - 3mm Hardboard - Wood stakes - Wood screws - Drill/Driver with screw bit - Wood float & margin trowel - Spade - Edging tool - Mixing tub - Cement and sand - Concrete sealer - Bucket 45
STEP 1 Lay out the perimeter of your edging with a garden hose. For best results, devise a design in which the border is at least 20cm wide.
STEP 5 For spacers, cut blocks equal to the width of the border. Set your spacers as needed along the bottom of the excavated area to maintain a consistent garden border width.
STEP 2 Dig out your planned border perimeter to a 10cm depth and 20cm width.
STEP 6 Mix cement and sand to a firm, workable consistency and pour it into the border form, using a margin trowel to spread and consolidate the mix.
Compact the soil to create a solid base for the concrete you will add in a later step.
STEP 3 Drive in wood stakes at 50cm intervals along the border.
STEP 4 With wood screws, attach pieces of flexible hardboard (for curved borders) or rigid plywood (for angular installations) to the wood stakes.
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STEP 7 Wait for the bleed water to disappear to smooth the surface with a wood float. Use a trowel to cut control joints at one metre intervals, each one at least 2cm deep. Smooth the edges with a concrete edging tool. STEP 8 Apply concrete sealer to the concrete before letting it cure for 3 5 days. Once cured, remove the forms and backfill against the lawn border with soil.
FINALLY... A lawnmower that does all the hard work for you! Cutting the lawn can be a schlepp. Firstly, you have to dig the mower out of the hut or storage shed every weekend. Then you have to lug it to the lawn - not an easy task in my garden where my hut is around the side of the house! Plus, if you don’t mow the lawn religiously every weekend, you end up struggling to cut thick lawn; pushing and pulling to unclog the grass buildup and trying to get a neat, professionallooking lawn. Now imagine a lawnmower that cuts right up to the edge, that is ďŹ tted with a motor that cuts grass up to 30cm in height effortlessly, and that is considerably lighter than comparable lawnmowers. The Bosch Rotak Lawnmover offers all this and more. 47
Portability and power are important in a lawnmower, even for a small garden. I love gardening and don’t mind working up the occasional sweat on a hot summer’s day, but cutting the lawn is not everyone’s favourite chore... so why not make it easier! The Bosch Rotak Lawnmower features a design that lets you cut right up to the edge - no need to cut or use a weedeater for neat edges. The unit is fitted with handles for easy transport and is lightweight and easy to carry.
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http://www.birdsandsoap.com/2013/06/cooler-stand-diy-tutorial-fathers-day.html
diy project - outdoor cooler box
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YOU WILL NEED:
C
Note: This plan is designed to fit a Coleman 45 litre cooler box (65.1cm x 35.89cm x 35.89cm). You will need to measure the exterior dimensions of your cooler box and make modifications where required.
C A D
GOOD TO KNOW:
Measuring your cooler box can be tricky with all of the rounded corners and sloped edges. Measure at its largest diameter; that is usually around the top rim. To get an accurate height measurement, level your tape from the ground and go up from there. - Cooler box - 2 Hinges - 4 Caster wheels (optional) - 6 and 12mm pockethole screws - Wood glue - Wood filler TOOLS - Tape measure and pencil - Carpenter’s square - Kreg Jig - Drill/Driver plus assorted bits - Countersink bit - Mitre saw - Orbital sander - Spirit level
FRAME A. 4 - 50 x 50 x 900mm - legs B. 6 - 50 x 50 x 610mm - crossbeam C. 2 - 50 x 100mm 340mm - sides D. 12 - 50 x 100mm 340mm - shelf slats 5 - 20 x 77 x 270mm - back panel 4 - 20 x 150 x 270mm - front/back panel 2 - 50 x 59 x 270mm - front panel 4 - 20 x 150 220mm - Side panels 2 - 20 x 77 x 220mm - side panels 2 - 20 x 77 x 710mm - ends mitred at 45o 2 - 20 x 77 x 445mm - ends mitred at 45o Scrap plywood 270 x 250mm 50
D
DIY TIP: Have all your timber cut to size
B A
LID 2 - 20 x 77mm x 690mm - 45o for top frame 2 - 20 x 77 x 406mm - 45o for top frame 4 - 20 x 150 x 370 - top panel 1 - 20 x 77 x 370mm - top panel 2 - 1x2 @ 13” (inner frame) 2 - 1x2 @ 25 1/2” (inner frame) Pre-drill and countersink all holes before attaching with screws, and use wood glue on all joins for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects to prevent inconsistency on the finish.
Preparing your cooler You want to get the tightest fit possible in the stand. This requires a little disassembly and some cosmetic work. First remove the lid from the cooler and get rid of the hinges. Next came removing the handles and the cap on the cooler drain. Any stubs or bits still sticking out can be cut off with a junior hacksaw. 1. Sand and prime all the pieces It’s always a good idea to sand pieces before assembly. Start with 120-grit and smooth with 240-grit. If you are applying stain or paint, you can also do this before assembly - leaving the final coat until the end. 2. Assemble front and back frames The legs are 900mm high and are attached to the crossbeams [B] with pocketholes. Measure up 150mm and 540mm from the bottom and mark to mount the crossbeams. 3. Attach the side panels Using pocketholes, attach the side panels C] to the top of the legs. Note: Only attach the side panels to one frame at this stage, to make it easier to fit the shelf slats in Step 4. After the slats are fitted you can then attach everything to the other frame.
B
A B
540mm
B
150mm
A
340mm
C C
GOOD TO KNOW
If you don’t yet own a pockethole jig, you can substitute with dowels, biscuits or steel angle brackets to join the sections together.
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4. Attach the shelf slats Using the crossbeams [B] as the support, mount the shelf slats using pocketholes. Again, if you don’t have a pockethole jig, you can mount the slats by driving screws through the front of the crossbeams and into the slats. With the slats in place, you can now attach the other frame to complete this section. 5. Fill the front and side panels Next came time to fill in the side panels. The side panel is made from (2) 20 x 150mm pieces and a 20 x 77mm in the centre. Measure the opening and cut the pieces to fit, I used wood glue and wire nails hammered in at an angle on the inside to hold the panels in place, leaving the outer view neat and clean. The boards are flush with the inside frame edges. I also glued up all the seams on the inside. Repeat this for both side panels, as well as the back panel.
On the front panel, a centre piece of plywood is fitted, so that the bottlecap design can be added.
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6. Add top trim The top trim is built out of 20 x 77mm pine that is 1cm larger all the way around the exterior of the frame to give it a nice lip. The corners are mitred, glued, and secured with panel pins. Place the cooler box upside down on top of the trim piece - making sure the box is centred over the frame. Mark around the edge. This will give you the tightest edge between your cooler and the top of the frame. Clamp and then cut with a jigsaw to carefully trim out the interior edge. I went very slow around the corners, and then sanded all the edges for a nice, smooth finish. Once you have finished the trim, you can fit your cooler into place. 7. Make the lid I measured and built a simple frame with the 20 x 50mm pine - glued and nailed together: For the 20 x 77mm pine frame, I measured and built this around the simple frame. The outer frame has mitred corners for a neater finish. NOTE: The plastic lid will not sit flush with the bottom edge of the wooden lid. It needs to be bumped out a little so that when it closes it will fit tight to the cooler bottom - so be sure to allow for this when framing the lid. The top of the lid is finish off with pieces of pine that are glued inside the frame. With all of that assembled you can mark for hinges.
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Finishing Off You will find that you need some type of stop, so your lid doesn’t just snap off. All that wood gives it a nice weight. I used two eye hooks and a length of chain attached to the side of the lid and top trim piece to keep my lid from opening too far. The drain on this cooler is roughly 12mm diameter and uses a short length of silicone tubing. Have a jug of hot water handy to soften the tubing to make it easier to fit over the opening and secure with a cable tie. With the cooler side of things assembled, now I fixed my attention on the stand. I measured for the drain on the correct side. Transferred my measurements to the side of the stand and used a spade bit to cut out a hole for a coupler. Finding the parts you need for the tap is tricky, but hopefully the guys at Builders Warehouse will be able to guide you in the right direction. You need a coupler to fit into the side of the frame, and onto which you can screw a hose bib (tap). It took some time to get the cooler shimmied into place. I had to be careful with the silicone tube attached to the drain. I folded it upward, then slowly lowered the cooler to align the drain. I used a screwdriver to poke the hose and fit it through the coupler. Once it was in place, I screwed my brass hose bib into place, and Voila! I had a working drain! 54
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http://www.birdsandsoap.com/2013/06/cooler-stand-diy-tutorial-fathers-day.html
n u F e h t Joi n
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DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL
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