Home-Dzine Online - August 2012 by Janice Anderssen

online

Home-Dzine IDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

August 2012

TOUCH OF SPRING

DESIGN DECORATING DIY

a word or two

5 COCONUT WALL DECOR

TOUCH OF SPRING

Boy have I been a busy bee! I cannot believe how many projects I’ve done this past couple of weeks, not only for Home-Dzine Online, but also for the next issue of Easy DIY magazine. You just HAVE to subscribe to this magazine if you don’t already grab a copy at your local Builders Warehouse. The next issue is full of great ideas! I know I have asked for your input before but if you have any ideas or suggestions for content for the Home-Dzine Online magazine, or any speciﬁc features you would like to see in the magazine - or on the website - please drop us a line at home-dzine@iburst.co.za. Enjoy!

Janice Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

NATURAL ELEMENTS

HOME MADE

REPURPOSED PLASTIC FLOOR LAMPS

RECLAIMED TIMBER WINE RACK

KIDDIES SLIDE

FOOD FUN

WALL PLANTER PAVING OPTIONS

decor and design

Cocomosaic tiles are handmade by cutting coconut shells into small, perfectly sized squares, and then bonding the squares into larger tiles. Various colours and ﬁnish effects are available. The different looks are obtained by using either the inside or the outside of the shells, and by making use of polishing techniques and paint effects. Cocomosaic tiles form a stylish, richly textured, exotic but elegant cladding. And it’s all natural and eco-friendly. The products are made from natural materials that would otherwise be discarded. Only water-based, low emission glues, lacquers and paints are used in manufacturing process. The Cocomosaic production facility is located in Indonesia, and has won presidential awards there for job creation and export sales. The coconut shells used are either collected by local people, or are obtained as the waste products from the processing of coconut ﬂesh and coconut milk.

In addition to the coconut shell mosaic tiles, the company also produces mosaic tiles from mahogany tree bark (a waste product from the timber industry), and another range of tiles from reclaimed timber such as pallets and crates. This innovative beneﬁciation of former waste products into desirable décor items has been highly successful in creating employment and generating an income for hundreds of people.

The tiles can be attached to any ďŹ rm surface using silicone glue or other tile adhesives. The tiles are easily cut to size and shape using a small angle grinder or even a jigsaw. The Cocomosaic tiles have an interesting texture and a warm, natural but sophisticated look, making them ideal for accenting a feature wall. Although h primarily used for wall cladding, the tiles also have applications in ceilings, furniture and even ďŹ&#x201A;ooring.

Cocomosaic tiles give you a more responsible choice when it comes to decorating walls, ceilings and ďŹ&#x201A;oors with a textured ďŹ nish, while at the same time helping a greener environment by making use of otherwise wasted coconut-shell materials.

Coconut chips are lightweight, durable, natural and beautifully decorative. They are easy to care, easy to design with and have exotic looks. Now by using cocomosaic tiles, we can have the style we need while being environmentally conscious and active in our choices.

Panda Bamboo Products is the appointed SA agent and distributor for the complete range of Cocomosaic interior cladding tiles.

A TOUCH OF SPRING

If you work according to the schedule that each season of the year is three months long, August is by rights the beginning of spring in South Africa. Spring - August - September - October Summer - November - December - January Autumn - February - March - April Winter - May - June - July Although we normally wait the arrival of September to celebrate the beginning of spring, I decided to move spring forward - from a craft point of view - so that you have plenty of time to start creating your own bird’s nest decor for when you do celebrate spring! We’ve had owls and birds, and bird houses and all types of bird-related home decor, and now we have added bird’s nests to the list. I love how cute and adorable a table can look with a few small bird’s nests added for interest. 10

WHAT A WONDERFUL WAY TO CELEBRATE THE ARRIVAL OF SPRING!

HOW TO MAKE A BIRD’S NEST CENTREPIECE

You will need:

Long lengths of cut ivy Sprigs of lavender Thin pliable branches Small twigs and branches Grasses or palm strands Sharp scissors

Here’s how:

1. Cut ivy to about 1 metre lengths. You will need around 10 to 12 lengths in total. Remove all the leaves from your ivy, but leave a few small leaves here and there. 12

2. Make a circle of approximately 20cm in diameter - or make smaller if you want a smaller bird’s nest. Wrap and twist a length of ivy into the shape of the nest.

3. Add another length of ivy to the shape, twisting this through and around the ďŹ rst length. Start adding strips of grasses or palm fronts and knot these to hold everything together.

4. Now you can start weaving pieces to the bottom of the next to create the base. Start at one side; weave ivy through and then over the base and through the other side.

5. Add more ivy to create the base of the nest, securing at the sides and bending the ivy into shape. Weave each piece of ivy through the other pieces to hold all the pieces ďŹ rmly in place.

6. Cut 20cm lengths of lavender and gently place these through and around the frame for the nest. As the lavender dries, it gives the nest a lovely, fresh spring scent.

http://happeningsoftheharperhousehold.net

HOW TO MAKE A BIRD’S NEST NECKLACE Make one for yourself or as a gift, but these bird’s nest necklaces are super-easy to make and won’t cost you much. You will need: Jewellery Wire (24/20 gauge) Beads Necklace chain Jump ring

Here’s how: 1. Choose the beads you want to use and string them onto the jewellery wire - arranging them in a circle. 2. Wrap the wire around the beads until the bird nest is as full as you would like it to be. 3. Wrap the wire around the nest between each bead. You can experiment with one, two or three loops. They can be straight across the nest or at more of an angle. Tuck remaining wire under loops underneath the nest. 4. You can attach a jump ring or simply use the wire to make a loop to hold the bird nest onto the necklace. Then place the bird nest charm onto the necklace chain. And ta-da you are done!

quick and easy

If you are looking for something diďŹ&#x20AC;erent than the average placemat, visit your local Builders Warehouse store to check out the range of pebble mosaic sheets. They have a variety of diďŹ&#x20AC;erent styles and when added to your table pebbles and stones can create a soothing eďŹ&#x20AC;ect to balance the hectic pace of modern life. What could be more natural than pebble placemats and coasters that add a touch of nature to your table setting.

DESIGNER FABRICS Spray paint your own fabric range! 18

People tend to give me a funny look when I tell them that they can spray paint on fabric. But the trick to spray painting fabric is quite simple - use the right spray paint! I have been using Rust-Oleum American Accents and 2X satin spray paints on fabric for the past 5 years, and the fabrics I sprayed ﬁve years ago still look good, despite being washed and washed. You have to use SATIN spray paint if you want to paint on fabric, but other than that the rest is simple. If you haven’t yet seen the chevron cushions that I made, pop over to Home-Dzine and take a look. Having seen this gorgeous teal table runner from Amenity Home, I immediately knew that I wanted one of my own. Since I didn’t want to order from overseas and haven’t seen this available locally, you just know I had to make my own! The table runner will look perfect with my new chevron spray painted cushions. Click here for details.

Here’s how: The effect that I used for the table runner is exactly the same as for the chevron cushions. I cut out pieces of self-adhesive paper to mask out the areas to be left white. Working outdoors, I spray the fabric with a VERY LIGHT spray from the front. Hold the can about 50cm away from the surface of the fabric and give a quick, light and even spray over the surface.

Moving round to the sides I applied another light coat, and from he back - the same. You can apply more spray if you want the ďŹ nish darker, but try to keep it light for a nice soft fabric. I have found that the more paint you apply - the stiffer the fabric becomes.

Let the paint dry completely before removing the sticky paper. As you peel off you will see that you have crisp lines with no bleed underneath. It is better to use a cotton or linen fabric for this project, as it tends to hold the colour for much longer than synthetic fabrics.

Still soft after painting? There is practically no difference in texture after painting with spray paint. The fabric is still nice and soft with only a slight stiffness, which will eventually wash away. Yes you can wash your fabric after it has been spray painted. In fact you can wash, and wash, and wash...!

LIGHT REFRESHMENT A floor lamp made from plastic bottles!

This is the part of the plastic bottle that you will use to make your standing or table lamp.

Cut off the top of the neck with a Dremel MultiTool and cutting disk

Cut off the base of the bottle and keep the bottom for great projects on the Home-Dzine website. Click here for details.

Use a pair of scissors to cut a neat line about 5mm from the decorative top. 22

Here’s how: See the enlarged pic on the previous page. This shows in detail the section of a plastic bottle that you will need for this project. GOOD TO KNOW Don’t throw the bottom of the bottle away just yet, there are some great projects coming on the Home-Dzine website and in the Easy DIY magazine. 1. Remove the top section of the bottle with a sharp craft knife and then use a pair of scissors to trim at 5mm below the decorative pattern on the bottle. If your bottle doesn’t have a decorative pattern - you’re using the wrong bottle! 2. Use a Dremel Multitool and cutting disk to remove the top neck of the bottle. Be careful when doing this as you need to hold the bottle in your hand as you cut. 3. To make one section you need two top sections. I have found it easier to warm up the bottom of a section in hot - not boiling - water to soften the plastic and make it easier to join two sections together.

I’m not going to lie and say that fitting the two bottle sections together is easy, but it does get easier the more you do. The trick is getting one section to fit inside the other and the blerry thing keeps popping out. Persevere and you will come right. 4. When you have collected enough sections to make a standing or table lamp, slip them onto a piece of PVC pipe. You can use nail polish remover (acetone) to remove the barcode. Take them outdoors to spray with frosted glass. You don’t necessarily have to spray with frosted glass, you can also leave them clear. But I find the frosted glass hides any defects and it also matches the base I have found. 5. So that all the sections fit together nicely I used a cardboard tube cut to length and then wrapped this with aluminium self-adhesive tape. There’s no exact measurement for this, as it depends on how you cut off the tops, but try one size and then adjust as required until you get a nice fit. You can purchase aluminium tape at your local Builders Warehouse and there are plenty of projects on the Home-Dzine website that use aluminium tape. Once you peel off the backing it feels exactly like tin foil but with a selfadhesive backing.

6. To wire up the lamp you need to thread the electrical cord through the pipe. Strip the end of each wire no more than 5mm from the end and then twist the wires together so that there are no loose ďŹ laments. 7. Thread the base of the lamp holder onto the top of the pipe and secure the wires to the lampholder connection. Pull on the wires to ensure they are secure and will not come loose and then screw the lampholder together.

8. Use 5-minute epoxy glue to attach the lampholder to the top of the pipe and leave this to dry for longer than 5 minutes! I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know why but sometimes it takes longer to dry than it should - perhaps temperature affects it. Just for security and peace of mind, I also wrapped a thin strip of white duct tape around the top as well.

9. To make the lamp stand I bought a piece of 20mm PVC electrical pipe from Builders Warehouse and use a glass light cover that was a leftover from a ceiling fan that was broken and removed. To steady the base I cut circular rounds of 16mm PG Bison SupaWood that were glued together and drilled with a 20mm spade bit, so that the pipe would ﬁt into this.

I love my new ﬂoor lamp with it’s silver and dark grey lampshade - also from Builders Warehouse.

Start collecting plastic cold drink bottles in preparation for our stunning chandelier project in Easy DIY magazine. Inspired by Michelle Brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original plastic bottle chandelier, we will show you how you can easily make a stunning chandelier to hang above a dining table, in a bathroom, or any room in the home.

Reuse - Recycle - Repurpose

My obsession with pallet furniture continues as I continue to come across ideas for using pallets or reclaimed timber in practical ways. Here’s how you can make a rustic wine rack for your home. Before selecting your pallet, make sure that the pallet you use has not been treated - the wood should be raw. It’s also important to make sure that the pallet is insect-free of insects.

Make sure the wood is in good condition and does not splinter easy. You will need 3 planks for the back section and one each for the front and base.

Depending on how you want your finished wine rack to look, you will need to sand down with 120-grit to remove rough edges and smooth and 80- or 240-grit to finish off and prepare for stain and seal or paint. Remember to wipe clean with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral turpentine to clean away the dust. For a more rustic finish you can leave out the sanding and simply apply Woodoc 5 absolute matt sealer for a natural finish.

http://wilsonsandpugs.blogspot.com

You will also need 3 cut sections for the sides and centre. Fasten the backs, front and base to these side and centre sections with wood screws.

BACK

SIDES & CENTRE

FRONT & BASE You should be able to get all the pieces you need from a single pallet, as long as the wood is not brittle or too damaged. Check for nails and remove these before you do any cutting or sanding.

Introducing the new Dremel Saw Max - the next generation of cutting tool!

To cut timber to size you can use a handsaw, jigsaw or Dremel Saw Max - shown right. 31

If you want to enhance the grain on your wine rack, similar to that shown in the project, you can use a Dremel VersaFlame or blowtorch to achieve this. Set the blowtorch on light setting and hold the torch just far enough away from the surface of the wood to lightly since the top. If you hold the torch too close it starts to burn. Choose from one of the Woodoc interior range of clear or added stain colour, or add your own stain concentrate.

It features high side rails and handles for safety and a gentle slope for toddlers. The dimensions are 445[W] x 864[D] x 946[H]. 34

http://www.lowescreativeideas.com

Built for the playroom or the garden, this playtime slide is destined to be a hit with the little ones. This slide is designed for children 2 - 4 years of age.

You will need:

Assembly & Finishing Tips

See Cutting List & Diagrams for parts 4 of 19mm angle braces 30mm wood screws Wood glue

TOOLS Circular saw or mitre saw Jigsaw Router + 12mm round-over bit, or wood rasp Compass 50mm hole saw & 500W drill Drill/Driver with asstd bits and countersink Random-orbit sander + 120- & 180-grit discs Carpenter’s square Sliding T-bevel - shown right Clamps Tape measure Pencil

It is essential to use the right products for stain, seal and paint. Use Woodoc Exterior for outdoor use, and interior for indoors. A quality water-based gloss or enamel paint is ideal for painting.

Cutting List:

Here’s how:

To simplify the assembly and finishing steps for this project, cut the parts to size, apply the finish, and then assemble. For the painted parts, sand with 120-grit sandpaper. For the parts to be stained, use 120-grit sandpaper and sand again with 180-grit sandpaper. 1. Cut the legs (A), lower spacers (B), top spacers (C), and slide sides (D) to length using a mitre saw. Smooth any splinters from the cuts using sandpaper. Good to Know: To make two sides (D) with one cut, stack the two boards on top of one another and stick together with two or three pieces of double-sided tape. 2. Use a compass to draw the curved top of a leg (A), and cut the shape with a jigsaw (Drawing 1 and Drawing 2). Lay out the holes at the top of the leg and drill them using a 50mm hole saw. Place a scrap of wood under the leg to keep from drilling into your bench as the bit goes through the wood. Repeat for the other leg. Good to Know: When using a hole saw, check to see when the bit goes through the board. When the pilot bit penetrates the board you’re cutting, remove the hole saw, flip the board over, and complete the hole by drilling from the opposite side using the pilot hole as a starting point. This prevents chipping. 3. Lay out the top of each slide side (D) by drawing the top radius with a compass -- the arch should be tangent with the top edge of the leg and the angle you cut earlier (Photo 2) - then cut the radius with a jigsaw. Repeat for the other side. Soften all the corners of the parts with sandpaper, wipe clean, and apply stain to parts (A, B, C, and D). Note that you do not apply stain to the mating faces of the legs and spacers (Drawing 2) and the ends of the sides. Also, remember that you’ll have left and right slide sides and spacers.

4. After the stain dries, brush on the ﬁrst coat of exterior sealer according to the instructions. 5. Cut the steps (E) and top step (F) to length. On the top step, round the edge of the board with a router and 12mm round-over bit (Drawing 4). (If you don’t have a router, a rasp can make quick work of the corner and create a rounded edge. A rasp is a handheld ﬁle used for shaping wood. Then sand smooth) 37

Assemble the Slide 1. Cut the cleats (G) and braces (H). From plywood, cut the slide (I) to size. Sand the parts and assemble the cleats and braces using glue and screws (Drawing 3). Glue and clamp the slide onto the brace/cleat frame (Photo 3). The slide will overhang 40mm on one end of the frame. After the glue dries, ease all of the sharp corners with sandpaper. Then apply a primer and two coats of paint to the stairs (E, F) and the slide assembly (G/H/I). 2. Starting at the bottom of the left and right legs (A), position the bottom spacers (B) (Photo 4). Clamp the parts together and screw a spacer to the inside face of each leg (Drawing 2). 3. Rest the legs (A) on 25mm-tall scraps to make positioning the steps easier. Place the bottom step (E) against the bottom spacers (B) so it projects 25mm from the front and back of the leg. Clamp it in position and drill countersinks and pilot holes to prevent splitting. Then screw it in place (Photo 5). 4. Add the remaining spacers and steps, securing the parts with glue and screws. Do not attach the top step until after you install the slide assembly. 5. Drill countersunk pilot holes in the painted slide assembly (G/H/I). Then screw it to the sides (D) (Photo 6) so the bottom corners of the cleats (G) are ďŹ&#x201A;ush with the bottom edge of the sides and the bottom end of the slide touches the bottom angle of the sides (Drawing 3). 7. Slip the completed slide assembly between the legs of the ladder assembly. Stand both assemblies on a ďŹ&#x201A;at surface to be sure the angle on the bottom of the ladder and slide contacts the ground evenly; clamp one side of the slide to a leg. Lay the slide on its side, drill countersunk pilot holes, and secure with screws (Photo 7). Repeat for the other side.

7. To place the top step, ďŹ rst ďŹ nd the angle of the other steps using a sliding T-bevel (Photo 8). Slide the bevel up the leg so the blade rests on the top of the slide (Photo 9). Draw a line under the blade to locate the bottom of the top step. Repeat for the opposite side. 40

8. Attach angle plates to the bottom of the top step (Drawing 4). Slip the step into position along the line you drew in Step 8 with the rounded edge on top and over the top end of the slide. Then screw it in place (Photo 9).

food fun

Buttermilk Cheesecake and a Strawberry Topping This delicate fridge cheesecake is perfect for a light ﬁnish to a summer meal, with its creamy, barely-set ﬁlling and zingy topping of fresh strawberries. I’ve used buttermilk in this recipe because I think it’s a most under-used ingredient, and because I love its taste: cultured buttermilk is tart, with a slight sweetness, and has a nice creamy consistency. And - agree with me please - it has a delightful name.

You can use any seasonal fruit as a topping: this cake is very good with granadilla [passion fruit] or mango. Use the same ratio of fruit pulp to gelatine, as laid out in my recipe, below. For the biscuit crust: one packet (200 g) Eet-Sum-Mor biscuits, or similar shortbread biscuits 100 g unsalted butter, softened For the ﬁlling: 1/3 cup (80 ml) water 4 tsp (20 ml) powdered gelatine one 250 g tub of cream cheese 1 cup (250 ml) cultured buttermilk 1 cup (250 ml) caster sugar 1 tsp (5 ml) pure vanilla extract ﬁnely grated zest of a small lemon 1 cup (250 ml) cream

Directions

For the topping: punnet (250g) fresh strawberries, hulled 2 T (30 ml) water 1 tsp (5 ml) powdered gelatine lemon juice and caster sugar, to taste

Break up the biscuits and process them to fine crumbs in a food processor (or crush them with a rolling pin). Place in a bowl, add the soft butter, and stir well to combine. Butter the base of a non-stick 24-cm springform cake tin, cover with clingfilm, and butter again. Tuck the edges of the clingfilm under the base, and place it in its ring. 44

Press the biscuit mixture evenly onto the base of the tin and place in the fridge while you make the topping. Put the water in a little heat-proof bowl and sprinkle the gelatine on top. Set aside for a few minutes to sponge. Place the bowl in a pot of simmering water (the water should come half-way up the sides) and stir occasionally as the gelatine melts. When the liquid is clear, remove the bowl and set aside to cool for a few minutes. Put the cream cheese and half the buttermilk into a large bowl and, using a whisk, beat until quite smooth. Beat in the remaining buttermilk, the caster sugar, the vanilla extract and the lemon zest. In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until thick and soft. Gently fold the cream into the cream cheese/buttermilk mixture. Strain the warm gelatine into the bowl and mix well. Pour the mixture over the crumb crust and refrigerate for 2-3 hours, or until ﬁrm. Now make the topping. Sponge and melt the gelatine and water, as described above. Put the strawberries in a liquidiser, add a few tablespoons of caster sugar (depending on the sweetness of your strawberries) and blitz to a purée. Measure out a cup (250 ml) of this purée and to it add a few drops of lemon juice. Strain the warm gelatine into the purée, stir well and pour it evenly over the top of the cake. Refrigerate until set. Warm the sides of the tin (as described below) and release the cake. Slide a palette knife between the crust and the clingﬁlm, turning the cake as you go, and then slide the cake onto a platter. Slice the cake using a knife dipped in hot water. Makes one 24-cm cake

The book is available at leading bookshops, and online at: Exclusive Books YuppieChef Kalahari The Beautiful Store

Cook’s Notes There are various methods of loosening a gelatineset dessert from its mould. Professional chefs use a blowtorch, briefly flicked over the outside of the tin, but this is a risky business, as a few seconds too long can liquefy the outside of the cheesecake and, besides, it’s useless if you’re using a plastic jelly mould. A better way is to dip a kitchen cloth in boiling water, and press it to outside of the cold tin for a few seconds. But the best way of all, I’ve found, is to use a hot pack designed for soothing acheing muscles. When you cut the cheesecake, use a hot knife (heated over a flame, or in a bowl of boiling water) for slicing.

Roast Pork Neck with Leeks, Carrots and Apples Pork neck is an inexpensive yet most tender cut, with a delicate, sweet taste that lends itself to all sorts of ﬂavour combinations. If you have a good butcher, ask him for this cut. It’s excellent in stews and casseroles, and lovely roasted in the oven with garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs. For the gravy: 4 t (20ml) ﬂour 2 cups stock or combination stock/white wine a dash of Kikkoman soy sauce (optional) salt and milled black pepper For the roast: a piece of pork neck (about 1.3 kg), trimmed of large bits of fat 2 T (30 ml) wholegrain mustard 2 T (30 ml) olive oil salt and freshly milled pepper 3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced a large sprigs of fresh sage 46

For the vegetables: 8 big carrots, peeled 8 leeks, white parts only, rinsed 2 onions, peeled 2 T (30 ml) olive oil 1 T (15 ml) butter 3 eating apples (I used Golden Delicious) 3 cloves fresh garlic, roughly chopped 1 T (15ml) fresh thyme (see note below) 2 T (30ml) fresh sage leaves, sliced 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) chicken, beef or vegetable stock or a combination of stock and dry white wine salt and milled black pepper

Directions: Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the pork neck in a roasting pan and smear the mustard all over it. Sprinkle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Tuck the garlic slices and sage sprig under the pork and place in the oven, on the top rack. Roast for 35-45 minutes, or until the pork is beginning to turn a golden brown on top. Remove and drain off any excess fat.

In the meantime, prepare the vegetables. Top and tail peeled carrots and cut into batons as long and thick as your ring ﬁnger. Cut the leeks into 2-cm slices, and quarter the onions. Heat the olive oil and butter in a big pan or wok and add the carrots, leeks and onions. Cook, stirring frequently, over a high heat for ﬁve minutes, or until the leeks and onions begin to take on a little colour. Core the apples and cut into wedges, but do not peel. Now add the apple to the pan along with the garlic, thyme, and sage. Cook, tossing frequently, for another three minutes, then season with salt and pepper. Remove the pork neck from its pan and put aside. Spread vegetables and apple in the roasting pan and set the pork neck on top. Pour in stock and/or wine. Put the pan back in the oven and reduce

the heat to 150° C. Bake, uncovered, for about an hour and a half, or until the vegetables are soft and glazed and the pork is meltingly tender. Check the dish every half hour or so: if the stock has boiled away, add a little more. By the time it’s ﬁnished cooking, there should be just a few tablespoons of liquid left in the pan. Remove the pork and set aside to rest for ten minutes. Lift the vegetables from the roasting pan - leaving a few bits of

carrot, leek, onion and garlic behind - using a slotted spoon, and keep warm. Put the roasting pan on the hob and turn the heat onto high. Sprinkle the ﬂour into the pan and stir well, scraping to dislodge any golden residue. Cook for two or so minutes, pressing on the remaining veg bits with the back of a spoon. Now pour in a cup of stock or stock/wine combination, and, using a whisk, stir vigorously until the sauce thickens and bubbles alarmingly. Thin the gravy with more stock, water or wine to the desired consistency (I know it’s oldfashioned, but I like a thickish gravy). Turn down the heat to very low and allow to bubble gently for ﬁve minutes. If the gravy seems a bit pallid, add a dash of soy sauce. Carve the pork into thickish slices and serve with the vegetables and gravy. Serves 6. 47

Since succulents require very little water, you will only need to have a hanger on the back so that you can take down the frame occasionally for watering. After watering, leave the planter down for a day before hanging back onto the wall. All you need for this planter is a box, a frame and a support system.

http://www.instructables.com

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wonderful way to add a touch of green to a small balcony or courtyard if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have any soil. You could even hang this succulent wall planter indoors.

THE BOX To begin you will need a box of some kind. An old vegetable or wine crate are perfect if you have these. Alternatively, make your own box using reclaimed timber and scraps that you have lying around at home. Apply Woodoc 50 exterior sealer to the inside and outside of the box to prevent rotting.

THE FRAME Repurpose an old picture frame for your wall planter. I suppose I worked this as bit backwards, as the box should be slightly smaller than the frame, unless you intend to make your own frame. You will ďŹ nd plenty of moulding and trim at your local Builders Warehouse to make your own.

THE SUPPORT To prevent the plants from falling out of the frame you will need chicken wire, attached across the back of the frame, and a layer of hessian or dried moss. Both will work well at containing what little soil is required for healthy succulents.

gardening delights

http://hostesswiththemotzes.com/2012/04/29/project-4-diy-bike-rack-made-from-pvc-pipe/

Be creative, use your imagination, have fun!

The next time mom or dad pop into Builders Warehouse, or if they tackle a plumbing project, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great way to use PVC plumbing pipe for a selection of quick and easy projects.

PVC plumbing pipe and adaptors make a very practical bicycle rack by hostess with the motzes.

Or what about making your own PVC plumbing pipe camp chairs such as these designed by Simple Simon & Co.

And making a set of PVC pipe goals is a breeze! 54

DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL

IMAGE SOURCE: INMAGINE.COM

IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF

TOOL HAMPERS.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU TACKLED THE PROJECT.

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za

TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SCHEDULE FOR 2012 More great projects for you to make and take home Beginners & Advanced Workshops Basic Electrical and Plumbing Workshops Soul Sisters for our Cape Town DIY Divas Basic Welding Career Workshops Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00 at a venue near you.