PONY – December 2014

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December 2014 £3.49

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part 4 Jumping downhill

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This month, four* eventer, Lauren Shannon, gives some top cross country tips to 15-year-old Lottie and her lovely pony, Bill, who’s nine.

-Country

basics!

Warm up wisdom

Lottie warms up with Bill by walking, trotting and cantering, including lots of transitions. The idea, says Lauren, is to get Bill in front of his rider’s leg, listening to her. Lottie needs to ensure Bill responds to the Go! button (her leg aids), but it’s equally important that he will stop for Lottie, too!

Brake test!

To test the brakes, Lauren asks Lottie to pop Bill over a small jump, then ask him to pull up and stop afterwards.

Bill responds – so Lauren progresses to more exercises.

Warming up nicely!

A lovely jump...

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... followed by an obedient halt!

One of the first combinations Bill and Lottie tackle is a single fence, followed by a second, with a downhill approach. Lauren has some pearls of wisdom for Lottie before she goes for it.

“Always imagine you’re pushing your canter uphill into a contact,” she tells Lottie. “Be aware that ponies might duck out of a jump when going downhill, so keep your shoulders back! Even though you’re going across country,” Lauren continues, “get a short striding show-jumping canter as you approach the first jump...”

Lottie looks to her second jump...

“...then allow Bill to take you downhill. Sit up, keep your shoulders back and steer!”

DYK? Bill’s dam (mum) is Lucky Charm, who featured in our last three cross country features!

... keeping Bill on the line to it...

... and meeting the ht! second fence just rig

Lottie and Bill take both jumps really well, earning them a big Well Done from Lauren!

ir Thanks to HitA h wit for their help this feature.

Next month: Jumping a ditch successfully!

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b o t e d o . s . . d n A Rubber matting

Thick mats which cover the entire stable floor.

Advantages: Easy to muck out – rubber matting provides a warm barrier between the pony and concrete floor, and gives support to the pony’s legs. Dust-free. Although they may be expensive to first install, once fitted, there is no more outlay. If fitted in sections, the floor below needs regular cleaning. Make up a conventional bed on top for comfort, and to soak up dung and urine.

Straw bedding from farmers and merchants

Everyone likes a comfy bed – and ponies are no exception. But which bedding is perfect for your pony? Here’s the PONY guide to bedding!

Rubber matting by equimat.co.uk

Straw A traditional bedding, straw should spring open when the bale is broken, and not raise too much dust.

Why straw? Easy to muck out, straw manure rots down well and is in demand from gardeners!

Note: Straw is not good bedding for ponies with allergies or respiratory problems. Quality and price depends on the harvest.

Horses and ponies will eat it.

Good for deep litter? Yes

Woodchippings/shavings These make a great bed and are easy to source.

Why woodchips? Commercially packed woodchippings are readily available, can be dust-free (look for those which are dustextracted) and make a comfortable and easily-managed bed for ponies. If packaged suitably, they may be stored outside. Use only those produced for animal bedding. Waste from saw mills can include blocks of wood, splinters and waste products.

Good for deep litter? Yes

Chopped rape straw by www.nedz.co.uk

Chopped rape straw

Snowflake woodshavings – www.plevinproducts.co.uk 16

May be made from straw from oilseed rape plants, chopped to produce short, absorbent fibres.

Why this bedding? Absorbency reduces ammonia levels, and dust-extraction and anti-fungal-treatment makes it suitable for ponies suffering breathing difficulties.

Note: May have oil added to repel insects and help supress stable smells.

Good for deep litter? Yes

White wood fibre This new product is made from recycled white wood.

Why wood fibre? Wood Fibre is usually dust-free. Free-draining, the bed stays dry on top. Used wood fibre bedding can be used on the land and it is economical to use. Look for those which have anti-fungal and fly repellent properties.

Good for deep litter? Yes

White wood fibre bed by www.easibed.co.uk

Paper bedding by www.dollarbedding.co.uk

Shredded paper/cardboard A great dust-free bedding for ponies who may have breathing problems.

Why paper? Paper makes a warm bed for ponies, and they won’t eat it, making it a good bedding material for those watching their weight. Allergy- and dust-free. Warm for ponies. Biodegradable.

Look for cotton paper bedding as this is more absorbent than wood-pulp paper.

Good for deep litter? Cotton paper may work better than wood.

Wood pellets by www. verdohorsebedding.co.uk

Wood pellets Compressed white wood fibre low in dust and moisture.

These pellets expand when wet, fluffing up to make a bed.

Why wood pellets? Environmentally friendly. Absorbent.

Dust-free. Breaks down and composts quickly. Pine wood pellets can reduce ammonia fumes in the stable. As compressed, less storage is needed. You need to add water when first used to make it swell into a suitable bedding.

Good for deep litter? Yes

Hemp or Flax

Muck management

A natural fibre bedding made from hemp and flax plants.

Why hemp? Absorbent, hemp soaks up moisture well, leaving the top layer dry and reducing waste. Dust-free. Composts well.

Note: Hemp should be dampened before use.

Hemp can cause colic if eaten.

Good for deep litter? Yes

Mucking out: Daily removal of all soiled and wet bedding.

Floor swept. Bed laid down and new bedding added.

Skipping out: Removal of droppings during the day.

Deep litter: Droppings removed and new bedding added without disturbing the base of the bed.

Semi deep litter: As above, but mucked out fully every week.

Saves time in the week.

Note: Good deep litter beds should be dry and not smell!

Ensure muck heaps are sited away from stable yards, to avoid smells, steam and flies during the summer.

Hemp bedding by www.aubiose.co.uk 17

QUIZ!

r o f e r a p e Pr

e k a T 1

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What extra equipment or tack might you need to put on your pony before you jump?

You will need to put a forward-cut jumping saddle on your pony so that you can adopt the correct jumping position.

And he must wear boots on all four legs whenever he jumps.

What should a rider do with their stirrups before they jump and why?

Riders should raise their stirrups approximately two or three holes from the normal length of their leathers.

This will allow them to balance when going over the jump, but still be effective with their leg.

Riders should put their stirrups down one hole from their normal length. This will mean they can grip better with their legs.

Riders should keep their stirrups at their usual length because it is the length they are used to and where they will feel most secure.

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Why is it common practice to begin a jump ing session with a cross pole?

Some protective boots and perhaps overreach boots. Ponies may get stronger when jumping so he may require a change of noseband, and a martingale if he lifts his head up high when he jumps.

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Which of these is the correct descrip tion of how best to ap proach a jump?

Approach calmly in an even rhythm, make sure the pony is balanced with lot s of impulsion.

Make sure you ap proach at a fast ca nter so the pony is going fast enough to be able to clear the jump.

Cross poles help to keep ponies straight and aim for the middle of the jump.

Approach at any pa ce and on any line – it doesn’t matter as long as the pony jum ps the fence.

A common rider fault when approaching a jump is to look down. In what way does this have a negative effect?

It makes your pony think you want to stop.

It unbalances your pony.

It often causes riders to drop their contact.

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You shouldn’t change any of your pony’s tack as it might upset him and make him not want to jump.

Cross poles are always small fences so it is a good fence to jump first.

Cross poles make sure ponies don’t run out.

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How much do you know about preparing to jump, and are you ready for it? Find out right here!

A firm contact so the pony doesn’t rush, and then loosen the contact a few strides before the fence so he knows you want him to jump.

It refers to the ty pe of jump. Tech nically easy jumps are known as low qu ality and technically difficu lt jumps are know n as high quality.

It refers to the m aterials that the fence is made from, and how old or new it is.

It refers to how technically corre ct the pony has jumpe d the fence.

How did you do?

A relatively loose contact so the pony is not restrained at all, and is not prevented from moving forward.

Mostly

Mostly

Mostly

You cou ld do with a bit of swa tting up on the best way to approach a fence. Why not wat ch som e of the experienced jumpers at your yard or riding school? And work on mak ing sure you are always in balance with your pony when you ride – it’s excellent ground work for jumping !

A light and steady contact, which is consistent, especially in the last few strides before the fence.

quality of jump mean?

You might know some basics of jumping, but you may need a bit more practice befo re you r preparation to jump is perf ect.

Why not school over some poles to perfect your technique?

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What type of contact should you have with your pony’s mouth on the approach to a fence?

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What does the te rm

You are read y for take off!

You kno w your stuff when it com es to jum ping , and know how to ride the app roac h to get a grea t jum p.

If you don ’t jump already, you are certainly ready to give it a try. Happy jumping!

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Which of these pictures shows a good jumping position?

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