PONY Magazine - March 2014

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bits and bitting masterclass!

Meet mini foal Dottie!

THE UK’S

N O1 PONY

MAGAZIN

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Top jumping tips from top riders!

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Get your pony fit for spring! real

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fab poster pages!

life

March 2014 £3.25

“I should never have bought my pony!” “My wo long-earednderful friends!” MORE horsey goings-on at

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A r e you i n t h e r igh t r i di ng mood?


5 top riders,

! s p i t g n i p m u j p 5 to So, did you make any NY rezzies? Here at PONY HQ we’re keen to improve our jumping! So we asked our fave celeb riders their best, EVER jumping tips! You don’t want to miss these!

pippa funnell “To get a really secure lower leg position you need to be relaxed in your knees and let the weight fall through your heels. If you are tense in your knees they will act as pivots, making your heels lift.” Sound advice from Pippa. Having a secure lower leg position is vital to successful jumping. Your heels are your anchoring points that will keep you on board should anything go pear-shaped!

mary King “I am a firm believer in being very clear about what’s right and what’s wrong. If your pony runs out, for example, don’t just carry on riding! He must know he has done wrong! Be methodical in correcting mistakes, and be quick to praise when he does well.” We totes agree with Mary. Teaching your pony right from wrong is so important, not only so you both improve but also to develop trust and understanding between the two of you. Ponies like things to be black or white. If you’re clear about what you expect from him (and what you don’t!) you can both relax, be confident and have fun! So how do you tell your pony he’s done something wrong? If he stops or runs out, pull him up immediately, smack him once saying “No!” in a growly voice. Then calm down, and come again. Don’t let anger or nerves get the better of you. You must be calm and in control for your pony to trust you.

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Jumpi secre from t star


mping crets om the tars!

Zara phillips “If in doubt, kick!” Good old Pony Club advice! Whether you’re show jumping or riding cross country, it’s rarely advisable to stop in front of, or turn away from, a fence. Unless, of course, it’s unsafe to jump! If you want to be good at jumping you need to be 100% committed. There’s no point in sort of wanting to do it, or kind of hoping the pony jumps – what sort of message is that to give to the pony you’re riding? It’s all or nothing, so take a few deep breaths, relax and ride to that fence with conviction and a, Yes, I want to jump, attitude!

Ben m maher aher “Rhythm is key to a good jump. It’s important to get your pony to take you around the corner, otherwise you have to ride too much into the fence. This can upset the rhythm, meaning you won’t reach the fence on a good stride.” Ideally, you shouldn’t be kicking your pony into a fence, your canter should be set up well before the final three strides. Use your corners by riding through them, with your inside leg on to support your pony. Keep your hands up, and don’t lean forward or look down his shoulder. Sit up and look toward the fence. For the last three strides your pony should be focused and working things out for himself. Don’t distract him by kicking or driving with your seat. Just sit still, with your leg on for support, and let the fence come to you.

tim stockdale “Don’t throw yourself forward when you go into your jumping position. Just get out of your seat and off your pony’s back.” Your upper body position is so important, both over a fence and on the approach to it. If you are sitting up and are focused you will feel it if your pony backs off or tries to stop. And when that happens, you need to be able to act quickly and say, “Go!” If you’ve already thrown your weight forward, ready for take-off, you will have no chance should your pony decide to stop or run out at the last moment! Try not to climb up your pony’s neck. It puts you in a position where you can’t react fast if you need to, and it puts all your weight on your pony’s forehand over a fence. Instead, fold from your hips, bringing your bottom out of the saddle so your pony can use his back, but keep your head up and stay in balance with your pony.

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Bitting master Part One – Snaffles

There are three main families or types of bits: l Snaffles l Curbs l Pelhams In addition there are gags and bitless bridles.

How bits work Bits act on one or more of seven parts of a pony’s head. l The lips and corners of the mouth l The bars of the mouth l The tongue l The roof of the mouth l The nose l The chin groove l The poll

Size and fitting l A bit has to be the correct size for the pony. One which is too large can move about and cause sores – and if it is jointed, it can lie too low and encourage the pony to get his tongue over his bit. One which is too small will pinch the corners of the pony’s mouth. l A thick mouthpiece is milder than a thin one, but too thick will be uncomfortable. A thin mouthpiece can be very severe. Each horse and pony is different so a bit which is right for one pony, may be uncomfortable for another. l A bit is the correct size when the mouthpiece is straight and protrudes 5mm on either side. It should be high enough in the pony’s mouth so that his lips crinkle slightly in a smile.

full-cheek snaffle

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eggbutt snaffle

hanging-cheek snaffle

Materials Bits can be made of metal (mainly stainless steel, copper or a combination), rubber or vulcanite, or be covered in plastic. Rubber, vulcanite and plastic are all warmer than metal.


erclass Designs

PONY vulcanite straight bar ACADEMY

eggbutt, thin mouthpiece

Snaffle mouthpieces can be straight, mullen mouthed (curved to accommodate the tongue), with no, one or two joints. A French link mouthpiece has two links joined by a small plate which sits flat on the tongue. Many horses go well with two links as the mouthpiece sits more comfortably on the tongue. A Dr Bristol is a similar design, but is much harsher as the central plate is set at an angle, and so digs into the tongue. Snaffle rings can be loose or an eggbut design (where the mouthpiece extends to the rings, preventing pinching), or incorporate cheekpieces (full cheek), which prevent the bit from moving in the mouth. These push against the pony’s face when the rider asks for a turn. A hanging cheek affords slight pressure on the poll.

hanging cheeks plastic mouthpiece

eggbutt, thick mouthpiece

full cheek

French link, loose, wire rings

Joint action A jointed bit has a nutcracker action on the tongue, and also acts on the lips and corners of the mouth – it must always be put on the bridle so it bends the correct way. A straight bar snaffle acts on the tongue and bars of the mouth. The snaffle bridle can also act on the pony’s nose if the snaffle is used with certain nosebands.

D-ring snaffle

loose-ring snaffle

Three-ring snaffle

three-ring snaffle

The three-ring snaffle has the action of a snaffle, but the three rings allow for more poll pressure to be applied when the lower rings accommodate the reins. Although it is often called a Dutch, American or Continental gag, this bit does not have the action of a true gag, which acts not only on the poll but also the corners of the mouth.

Next month: Curb bits and pelhams 21


Body bliss

Treat your pony to a body massage! For the ultimate treat, you can hire a professional equine therapist to come and give your pony a massage. It will make him feel uber-relaxed, as well as helping to loosen his muscles. Plus, it will give you a chance to take some funny pics and watch him nod off!

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Clean and gleam Why not give your tack a really thorough clean? Take your bridle apart and clean each piece. Make sure to do the same with your stirrup leathers. Then give your saddle a good going over. Finish by changing to a fresh saddle cloth to complete the job. Supple, clean tack will feel great for your pony the next time you ride and you’ll be looking super smart!

Seven heavenly tr

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Check out these seven ways to spoil your pony this Valentine’s day!


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Snack away

Your pony might love a snack ball or lick, especially if he is stabled. Licks come in all different shapes, sizes and flavours, and different types designed for both the field and the stable are available. The same goes for snack balls and toys. Pick the best one to suit your pony and where he lives – don’t forget to stock up on his favourite treats to fill it with!

Make a meal!

Make him shine

treats

Why not rustle up a tasty treat to add to your pony’s feed or give him as an extra snack? Vegetables such as carrots, swedes, turnips and parsnips are safe to feed horses. You could chop up a mixture to add to his feed, or hang a swede in his stable to keep him entertained. Be sure to chop any veg into finger shapes, not discs, as these can be a choking hazard for ponies.

Take some time to give your pony a good, long groom and a pampering sesh! Use every brush and product in your grooming kit to really pamper your pony! If your pony lives in, don’t forget to trim his tail, coronet band, ears and chin to keep him looking tip-top! You could finish off with some coat shine spray, or even some pony glitter for his mane, tail and hooves if bling is your thing!

Something new...

Why not treat your pony to a new item for his wardrobe? Replace anything that is looking a bit tatty! A new rug, a pair of boots or a headcollar would keep him looking smart. Or how about an item to add to his grooming box, like a new brush?

Take a break!

Give your pony a well-earned day off! Being ridden is work for ponies, as they are not only physically exerting themselves, but concentrating on what they are being asked, too. So treat your special pony to a day off, to be turned out where he can relax and roam around with his pals, or snooze in his stable!

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craNiuM

cErVical (NEck) VErtEbraE

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EyE orbit

uppEr jaw Nasal boNE MaNdiblE (lowEr jaw) dENtal spacE

scapula (shouldEr bladE) huMErus

T h e H o r s e ’s Skeleton short pastErN boNE coffiN boNE


thoraCiC (dorsal) vertebrae

luMbar (loin) vertebrae saCral (pelviC) vertebrae CoCCygeal (tail) vertebrae

pelvis

feMur

stifle joint ulna

ribCage radius

Carpus (Knee)

tibia CalCaneus (fibular tarsal)

MetaCarpal (Cannon) bone sesaMoid (fetloCK) bones

long pastern bone


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