Celebrating a milestone in continued teaching of Footwear Design in Leicester.
Published on the occasion of the exhibition 90 Years of ‘shoe design’ (19-25 June 2024) curated by the BA (Hons) Footwear Design programme team.
Text and images from the online exhibition
DMU Shoe-perpower: 90 Years of Footwear Design at De Montfort University by Dr Natalie Hayton, Assistant Archivist https://library.dmu. ac.uk/specialcollections/exhibitions
All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced without the author’s permission.
Printed and bound by DMU Print Services.
One of the earliest images of the Boot and Shoe Machine Room in the Hawthorn Building. From the Leicester Municipal Technical and Art Schools Prospectus, 1899/1900.
FOREWORD
In the academic year of 2023/24, De Montfort University celebrates the ninetieth anniversary since its official launch as a joint taught programme between the Department of Boot and Shoe Manufacture and the Department of Drawing, Painting and Design. Offered at the Leicester Colleges of Technology and Art, the course combined traditional craftmanship with the advances of innovative technology.
I recall a quote by Nick Mitzevich, Director of the National Gallery of Australia, that seems particularly poignant: “Such a significant anniversary warrants reflection on the past, celebration in the present and thoughtfulness for the future.”
As a specialist programme within the School of Fashion and Textiles, I became curious about the Footwear Design programme origins, and embarked on a journey into the University archives with the help of the Special Collections team and Heritage Centre.
Together we were able to piece together and explore the rich history of the course from its origins in the late nineteenth century, to its evolution of a highly skilled craft into one of the UK’s most prestigious and
specialised degree programmes today. Uncovering some of the extraordinary stories of resilience, triumphs and achievements, we witnessed the course circumnavigate challenges while achieving remarkable successes.
The course has experienced many highs and lows throughout the years, from navigating war, industry downturn and a global pandemic, to winning and achieving various coveted prizes and accolades.
Fast forward to the present day celebrating the 90th anniversary, we showcased our Footwear Design programme through various events, exhibitions, and displays across campus. From an online exhibition to physical exhibitions, including a shoe sculpture and honouring Christopherson Award winners, we paid tribute to the legacy of the programme. With the 2024-degree show set to exhibit the work of graduating students and alumni, as well as items from Special Collections, the celebration continued.
Launching an archives appeal, we sought to collect materials that showcase the outstanding work of former staff and students, preserving their contributions for future generations.
The the Vijay Patel Building is split into the Arts Tower and the Design Wing. Today, Footwear Design is housed on the 4th floor of the Design Wing, with dedicated workshops throughout the building
The Special Collections team was able to piece together the history of course development through minutes and prospectuses, but what makes those documents come alive is reading and hearing about the stories of staff and students and their experiences through their collections and voices. Not just for the 90th year celebrations, loans and donations are preserved and used in perpetuity to create a lasting legacy.
As we look ahead, we anticipate continued innovation in design and manufacture, with De Montfort
University students and alumni leading the way in pushing boundaries within the footwear industry.
We present this publication to commemorate the milestone, honour the contributions to the footwear industry by some of our leading staff and scholars, and celebrate the advances made in our field over the last 90 years.
Nanette Westberg-Brown Senior Lecturer, Footwear Design Programme Leader for BA (Hons) Footwear Design
ORIGINS
An illustration of what is now the Hawthorn Building on DMU’s city campus site and the first purpose built building to house DMU’s predecessor’s the Leicester Schools of Art and Technology.
The first Principal of the Leicester Art and Technical Schools, John Hawthorn. c 1900.
Origins: Local Industry and Demand for Skilled Workers
Leicester’s First Technical School
From the mid-nineteenth century Leicester experienced a boom in footwear manufacture that would secure its reputation as a hub for the shoe industry for well over a century. With the building of many factories across the city, employers initially adopted a mix of engaging people working from their own homes (in the fashion of old cottage industries) and on the factory floor. With demand for skilled labour in a variety of settings, the Leicester Technical School, a predecessor of De Montfort University (DMU), founded in 1884 on Applegate in the city centre, offered a course in Boot and Shoe Manufacture.
The Portland and Chantry buildings on DMU campus today used to be the site of Portland Shoes factory. Portland Shoes operated between 1872-1989 and DMU purchased the buildings in 1991. From Ancient and Historical Buildings in the Vicinity of Portland Shoe Works, Leicester. 1948.
Specialising in vocational training, the Boot and Shoe programme was specifically created to form a partnership with the city’s booming shoe trade: workers would share their expertise and skills by teaching part-time, and students would train and go into local industry. In addition, machinery and materials were often supplied by local manufacturers to assist with providing students with experience of the latest technologies and innovations to enhance their learning. This collaborative relationship has since developed, flourished, and continues today.
The Technical School classes proved so popular that they soon outgrew their premises. The Leicester School of Art, enjoying similar success, was having the same problem, so the local authority sought to solve both dilemmas: merging the institutions, the Leicester Municipal Technical and Art Schools were created and a new building constructed for them in The Newarke in 1896. At the heart of DMU campus, this is now the Hawthorn building.
1897-1920
Technology of the Boot and Shoe Trade Course
While no records exist for the founding years of the School, we do have Committee Minutes for the Municipal Schools and Furnishing Sub-Committee, dated December, 1896, which mention sending a request to the ‘Boot and Shoe and Hosiery Manufacturers to ascertain whether they will fit up the rooms connected with their respective trades.’
This, along with prospectuses confirms that the Schools and local firms had already established mutually beneficent relationships. The same Minutes go on to discuss the allocation of funds to set up the new department:
• £80 for the fitting out of the Boot and Shoe Class Room
• £230 for the Boot and Shoe Machine Shop
• £100 for the Clickers’ Room
• £115 for ‘special fittings’
A total of £525 which is approximately £41,000 today.
Description of the Boot and Shoe Manufacture course in the 1897 prospectus.
Cover of the Leicester Municipal Technical and Art Schools Prospectus, 1897.
When the Schools opened in 1897, Boot and Shoe Manufacture courses were running with a full and detailed programme which is described in the first prospectus above. The course was structured around industry “departments” and was a mix of developing practical skills and theoretical knowledge regarding manufacturing processes. “Departments” included:
• Pattern Cutting and Clicking
• Machine Sewing
• Making and Finishing
• Lectures and a Discussion Class
Placements in industry were not needed as many students on the course were already working in factories and attending classes in the evening or as part of their employment. At this time students could be as young as 11 and classes were open to both boys and girls.
DMU 90 years of ‘Shoe Design’
City and Guilds of London Institute Inspection Report, 1900
From these early days of the course, we also have the first Inspection Report of boot and shoe classes. At this time the Schools did not issue their own qualifications and all student work was submitted for assessment to relevant bodies, such as the City and Guilds of London Institute. It is in this report that we have clear evidence that students were being instructed in elements of footwear designing not just manufacturing.
See the highlighted section in the Report above for the earliest mention of footwear design being undertaken at DMU and its predecessors. From the Trade Advisory Committee Minutes, 1900.
Over the next 20 years the Boot and Shoe Manufacture course experienced great success with a growing intake of students and attracting industry professionals to teach at the School. In no small way was this related to the Schools ongoing relationship with local industries, and by at least 1916 many local firms were paying their employees’ fees so they could attend classes.
World War I
The First World War years were significant for the Technical and Art Schools as many staff and students either enlisted or were “called up” to serve in the Armed Forces. From May 1916 applications were received from disabled ex-servicemen who needed to retrain in a different trade to accommodate their injuries. Special classes were organised in Hand Sewn Boot and Shoe Manufacture, for which the British United Shoe Machinery Company loaned the equipment.
1920-1945
Stepping Up: the Rise of Footwear Design
Following the war, and despite an initial general uptake in student numbers, the success of the course gradually started to wane in the late 1920s, resulting in cuts to courses and falling student numbers. The backdrop for this downturn is evidenced in the committee minutes where board members share growing fears and concerns that UK institutions generally are falling behind with European and U.S. approaches to footwear design and manufacturing.
To counter this, a number of research trips were organised for the purpose of revitilising the course. Significantly, this led to the introduction of a more formal design element: in 1929, Head of Department Mr. F. Roberts recommended that all students on the boot and shoe course would benefit from attending design classes held in the School of Art to develop knowledge and skills in illustration and anatomy.
Opposite: From 1916 a list of applications which were received from disabled ex-servicemen who needed to learn a new trade to accommodate their injuries.
Closing Room. From Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology Prospectus, 1934-35. Pg. 83.
Lasting Room. From Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology Prospectus, 1934-35. Pg. 84.
Bottom Stock Room. From Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology Prospectus, 1934-35. Pg. 85.
A Path of One’s Own: Footwear Design is launched
Footwear design quickly became a more significant and substantial study option while still integrated within the Department of Boot and Shoe Manufacture. The first instructor in shoe design was appointed in 1932 and the programme launched for the new session in 1933/34. The course was a 3-year programme aimed at school leavers, aged 14-16. This was the inception of Footwear Design at DMU as we now know it.
The first course description of Shoe Design in the prospectus the year that it is officially launched in 1933-34. Pg. 61.
Listed under a number of schools, including Industrial Design, Fashion Design, and Painting and Drawing as well as Boot and Shoe Manufacture, Footwear Design is now seen through a new artistic lens, as the course outline above states, ‘only those definitely possessing artistic ability are encouraged to apply.’ A new emphasis on developing a broader set of artistic, creative and practical skills that is complemented with theoretical knowledge and vocational training can also be seen in the list of areas to be taught, including:
• Anatomy
• Colour Theory
• Illustration
• Technology in boot and shoe manufacture
Cover of the Leicester Colleges of Art and technology Prospectus, 1933-34
Opposite: School of Boot and Shoe Manufacture course description. From the Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology Prospectus, 1938.
World War II
By 1939, when World War II broke out, the Leicester Colleges of Art and Technology were a well-established and well-respected part of Leicester’s educational sector. Over the next 6 years its staff and students would experience great upheaval.
Students continued to enrol on the shoe design course and, as during the First World War, the department also provided retraining for ex-serviceman who would be re-entering the workforce as the war drew to a close. The images and course description above are taken from the prospectus produced during war-time and below, the Academic Board Committee Minutes.
Description of the Shoe Design course as a specialist area of training. Pg. 9.
Students comparing form cutting. From School of Boot and Shoe Manufacture Prospectus, 1946. Pg. 15.
The Post-War Years
Following the war, design and manufacturing in the footwear industry continued in much the same way, with Europe and the U.S. dominating the market. The College continued to see a boom in student numbers as demand for training and education in footwear design increased.
As such, both Footwear Design and Boot and Shoe Manufacture continued to develop successfully, culminating in the introduction of a Diploma in Shoe Designing and Styling programme in 1951.
Students were able to specialise in footwear for men, women or children, and were expected to produce samples for assessment.
Cover of the School of Boot and Shoe Manufacture Prospectus, 1946.
Service Trainees working the Boot and Shoe Department. Pg. 13.
Extract from Academic Board Committee Minutes recording American Forces enrolling as students at the School of Boot and Shoe Manufacture, 1945.
1969-1991
Footwear Design replaces Boot and Shoe Manufacture
With additional reforms to further and higher education in the late 1960s, many vocational colleges, like the Leicester Technical and Art Schools, became Polytechnics. This meant many courses associated with trades, such as training in baking, confectionery, hairdressing and motor engineering became available through further education programmes.
In Leicester, many of the Technical School’s trades subjects were relocated to Charles Keene College. Boot and Shoe Manufacture and Footwear Design continued to be offered through the Polytechnic but the two subjects were now seen as very distinct: the former’s ‘operative and craft level training’ elements took place off campus at South Fields College while the latter was instead paired with Business to offer a new Combined Diploma (Report to the Academic Board of Working Party No. 8, 1971).
Leicester Polytechnic
Extract from Report to the Academic Board of Working Party No. 8. ‘The Future Organisation of Boot and Shoe Education in Leicester’, September, 1971.
The Fletcher Building was opened by HRH Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 1966. It housed art and design subjects.
The Fletcher Building Paternoster, c.1985.
International Markets
Amidst the backdrop of a developing international footwear market throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the British footwear industry, while still of significant economic importance, saw a decline in terms of demand as Europe and the UK became the receiver of more global imports: between 1961 and 1971 footwear imports rose from £10 million to a staggering £40 million.
As the Minutes of the Academic Board for Leicester Polytechnic demonstrate, this had a huge impact on the industry in the form of:
• 42% drop in the number of firms
• 15% drop in the number of employees
• 46% increase in output
There was also less need for such a large workforce due to increased mechinisation. These changes, coupled with the fact that training in the industry was taking place more on the factory floor, resulted in a review of the future of Boot and Shoe and Footwear Design programmes at Leicester Polytechnic.
As the Head of Boot and Shoe Manufacture Mr. Long neared retirement, the Academic Board including Head of Fashion, Miss Grace Best, Principal of South Fields College Mr. E. Beech, Directors and Secretaries from UK firms, such as Mr. S. Makowski from British United Shoe and Mr. L. Loft from Leicester City Footwear Manufacturers’ Association met to discuss options.
It was agreed ‘that under Mr. Long, Leicester had built up a reputation of great value... that was known nationally’ and that no other institution could readily ‘establish a comparable reputation as a centre for footwear education’ (Report to the Academic Board of Working Party No. 8, 1971).
As such, the Board recommended that the Polytechnic do all it could to retain its prestigious reputation in Footwear Design, while Boot and Shoe Manufacture no longer be offered as a higher education programme. Thus, in 1971 the Department closed.
The Minutes state that it is hoped the Boot and Shoe Department will eventually be fully replaced with a Department of Footwear Studies, but in the meantime the programme would be overseen by Best, Head of Fashion and Textiles.
Grace Best, Head of fashion and Textile Design. From Press Cuttings, 1977.
Footwear Design established within Higher Education
Aimed at 18-year olds, the Higher Diploma in Footwear Design was launched in 1933/34, the only course of its kind in Europe. As such, an emphasis on competing with Italian and Spanish footwear industries was soon touted by the press as the first graduates of the course produced and exhibited innovative and celebrated designs and prototypes.
Amidst the economic instability of the 1970s, the dream of a Department of Footwear Design is not quite realised despite its success and student achievements. Instead, as degree courses began to be taught at the Polytechnic, in 1976 Footwear Design is included as a specialist area of study on the BA Hons Fashion programme. These press cuttings show various challenges and successes that defined the journey towards developing a prestigious and unique course at the heart of Leicester.
A selection of press cuttings 1970 - 1996
1992-Present
Shoe Design in the 21st century
Since Leicester Polytechnic was granted university status in 1992, the Footwear Design course has continued to develop and maintain its world-leading reputation taught by awardwinning staff. Launched in 2001/02, DMU is one of only two universities in the UK to offer a single honours degree course in Footwear Design (the other is the London College of Fashion). DMU is also recognised for having one of the country’s most sustainable fashion and textiles schools for its work to address issues such as fast fashion and tackling the fashion industry’s carbon footprint.
As in the 1880s, the success of the course is still underpinned by its direct links with industry professionals, firms and big brands that provide students with valuable insights into new products and access to the latest technologies. This also includes placements with many graduates going on to successful careers with prestigious designers and companies, such as Nike, Adidas, Puma, Jimmy Choo, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Kurt Geiger and recent DMU Honorary Graduate and celebrated footwear designer to the stars, Sophia Webster.
Sophia Webster received an Honorary Doctorate in Design at DMU, 2019.
DMU’s Vijay Patel Building, home to art and design.
Since our 2009 inception, The Footsoldiers has established itself as a frontrunner in footwear design and development. Based in the heart of central London, we have forged strong and lengthy collaborations with leading brands in sports performance, outdoor, casual and fashion. Our success is driven by the vision of founders, Tom Astrella and Hector Rubio, whose diverse backgrounds have helped foster a culture of collaboration and creativity, which is reflected in everything we produce.
Together, our global team of designers bring a wealth of fresh ideas and specialised expertise that enable us to deliver standout designs for our partner brands. This international perspective enables us to deliver standout, relevant designs that meet the highest of standards.
We are committed to advancing footwear innovation at every stage, from initial concept to end-of-life solutions. Our dedication to this mission is reflected in our regular partnerships with leading industry suppliers and universities across the globe. These collaborations not only keep us at the cutting edge of design but also positions us as a nurturing ground for emerging design talent.
thefootsoldiers.com
Covid-19
Throughout the history of the programme, the teaching of design has been synonymous with practical shoemaking. So, what happens when the world is plunged into lockdown as the result of a global pandemic? Well, it certainly provides an additional challenge as teaching and learning cannot simply stop.
Lectures, seminars, presentations and tutorials all moved online and the use of digital technology and innovation came to the forefront. Face-to-face teaching became limited to practical workshops; adhering to social
distancing restrictions, utilising appropriate PPE and a reduced presence on campus. Our technical teams put together and sent out care packs, in an extraordinary effort to enhance students learning during lockdown, both in the UK and abroad, by receiving parcels containing the materials and tools needed for projects relating to their studies.
Covid-19 screens in storage DMU’s laser cutting facilities were used throughout the transformation of the screens
Socially distanced workshop access during the Covid-19 pandemic
During a time of uncertainty, our students exceeded expectations with their commitment, resilience and determination to prosper in their footwear studies, which has been evident with the impressive number of accolades that they achieved.
We have subtly recognised the Covid-19 pandemic within our 90th anniversary celebrations; amongst our showcasing, repurposed perspex covid screens have been transformed into display plinths. At the 2024 degree show, a sculpture featuring ‘90 shoes for 90 years’, was again made from the repurposed covid screens, maintaining DMU’s ethos of sustainable practice.
Laser engraving the newly repurposed plinths
The repurposed plinths are ready for installation
A prototype of the showcasing plinth
The plinths used within the Christopherson exhibition
Laser cutting ‘90 shoes for 90 years’
Student Yingzhe Lin working during the Covid-19 pandemic
Footwear Design care packs during the Covid-19 pandemic
Young teaching a class, c 1960.
Howard William Young
Howard William Young was an instructor in the Boot and Shoe Manufacture Department at the Leicester College of Technology during the 1950s and 60s. Along with this photograph of him on the left, teaching materials including student footwear designs were donated to DMU Special Collections by his family in 2020.
The below images show a variety of footwear designs including, a women’s riding boot, a men’s army boot, jodhpurs and moccasins.
Men’s Riding Boot
Women’s Riding Boot
Women’s Moccasin Shoe
Ron Beeby
Designing for HM Queen Elizabeth II
Prior to his appointment at Leicester College of Technology as a lecturer in Footwear Design in 1957, Ron Beeby had worked for British manufacturer Rayne Shoes, known for its high-end and couture footwear. Granted a Royal Warrant in 1935, Rayne Shoes designed and made shoes for HM Queen Elizabeth II (then Princess Elizabeth) to wear on her wedding day to HRH Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh in 1947. During his time at Rayne Shoes, Beeby assisted with the design of the shoes and the criss-cross twist on the upper of the heeled sandals was one of his signature designs. The sandals were trimmed with silver and seed pearl to complement the 10,000 pearls that were embellished onto her dress (Spranklen, 2021).
Beeby became Head of School of Footwear Design in 1969 and retired in 1981. In honour of his contribution to DMU Footwear Design, the Beeby Award was introduced in 2007 and is awarded to the student who has undergone the most significant progression or journey to success that year.
The Beeby Award. Image from DMU, 2024.
HM Queen Elizabeth II’s wedding to HRH Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, 1947.
HM Queen Elizabeth II’s wedding shoes. Rayne Shoes, 1947.
Ron Beeby
Clive Shilton
Designer for HRH Diana, Princess of Wales
Celebrity shoe-maker Clive Shilton began his career studying Footwear Design at DMU and working at one of Leicester’s long-standing shoe manufacturers D. Henderson and Sons, founded in 1880. Having also designed footwear for Rayne Shoes, Shilton was approached to design and make the wedding shoes for HRH Diana, Princess of Wales (then Lady Spencer) who married HRH King Charles III (Prince Charles at the time) in 1981.
Following several consultations with his “special client” in which Shilton took foot measurements and noted personal requests, he set to work on the shoes which would take 6-months to make. (Spranklen, 2021). Diana had specifically requested a low heel so she did not appear taller than her husband-to-be on their wedding day, and the soles of the shoes would feature a secret romantic gesture. The final design was a pair of lowheeled satin and lace slippers decorated with 500 sequins and 100 seed pearls. With suede sole arches to prevent slipping, the initials C and D (for Charles and Diana) were painted under each heel with a heart in the centre (Redin, 2023).
Clive Shilton
HRH Diana, Princess of Wales’ wedding to HRH Prince Charles, 1981.
Clive Shilton’s designs. Image from Daily Express, 2023.
Wedding Shoes. Image from Brides, 2022
Wedding Shoe Details. Image from Tatler, 2021.
Becka Hunt
Designer for HRH Catherine, Princess of Wales
In 2012, HM Queen Elizabeth II began her Diamond Jubilee Tour with a visit to Leicester and DMU. In preparation, a very special competition was launched for footwear students to design and create shoes for HRH Princess Catherine (then Duchess of Cambridge).
Six finalists were selected and the Princess chose her favourite during the visit. The winning designer, Becka Hunt could proudly claim her first royal commission.
HM Queen Elizabeth II and HRH Princess Catherine during their visit to DMU, 2012.
Becka Hunt
Above: Becka Hunt’s shoe design.
Left: The shoes made for HRH Princess Catherine.
Becka Hunt’s shoes on display in Harrods.
Adele Williamson
Designing for HM King Charles III
Graduating in Footwear Design at DMU in 2015, Adele Williamson was named among the top 15 young designers the following year by the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. Since then she has become the youngest and first woman bespoke shoemaker for Tricker’s, Britain’s oldest established shoemaker founded in 1829. Featuring in Drapers’ ‘30 under 30 rising stars of fashion retail’, travelling the world representing Tricker’s and making shoes for HRH King Charles III (Prince Charles at the time) are now all in a day’s work for this alumna.
Adele Williamson
Williamson with HM King Charles III, 2019. Getty Images
Williamson’s workbench. From Google images, 2024.
Williamson at work. From Google images, 2024.
AWARDS
Student Prizes and Awards
Over the years, the Footwear Programme has celebrated numerous achievements and successes and it all began by training local Leicestershire factory workers. Those with a flair for design were able to flourish, and were soon winning awards and prizes in recognition of their work from at least the 1890s.
Today, students are encouraged to enter competitions throughout their degree (Moda competition, the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers Footwear Awards, the Worshipful Company of Patternmakers Bespoke Orthopaedic Awards and the CIONE Biomechanical Performance Award to name but a few) as well as showcase their work in the Art and Design Degree Show at the end of their final year.
A BA (Hons) showcasing stand
The Christopherson Award
Albert Edward Christopherson taught at the Leicester Municipal Technical and Art School and became Head of the Department of Industrial Design in 1935, which taught subjects including costume design, poster and sign art, illustration, engraving and stained glass and footwear design. Following his passing in 1997, his family bequeathed a substantial sum of money for the benefit of the DMU Faculty of Art and Design.
Since 2008, the Christopherson Fund has been used to collect a yearly ‘snap shot’ of excellence for all courses within the faculty. The award winner’s work is selected and purchased for its innovation and creativity. The Christopherson Collection has developed into a Faculty based working archive, a teaching resource and source for display. Work is displayed in buildings across campus all year round.
Samuel D’Avoine 2008
Ruth Jones 2008 Ian Burgess 2009
Charlotte Carr 2010
2011 Rachel Frost
2012 Samuel Mason
Hannah Jayne Fletcher 2013
Alexandra Friling 2014
Alex Blackman, 2015 Doey Kim 2016
2017 Yoon Yi Lee
2018 Tarik Tanrikolu
2019
Sofia Ruiz Rodriguez
2020 Finn Taberer
2021 Jihee Ahn
2022 SamuelLilley
Yinglin Xu, 2022
2023 Cameron Murdoch
2023
Cordwainers Footwear Awards
Since 2014, the Cordwainers Footwear Awards have been open to students of the undergraduate footwear design courses in the UK.
Students from De Montfort University, the University of Northampton and London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London submit portfolios which are assessed by a distinguished judging panel drawn from members of the footwear industry.
The awards embody the Company’s core purpose, and demonstrate their ongoing commitment to supporting both the footwear industry and student footwear designers.
In addition to competing for annual prizes totalling £8,000, finalists benefit from mentoring and guidance from established footwear professionals.
Above Left: Jimmy Choo with Sam Walker and Bethany Roberts, 2015.
Above Right: DMU 2015 finalists
2015 finalists with DMU Course Leader ,Kevin Guildford (left) and Senior Lecturer, Phil Stewart (right) at the V&A museum.
Jimmy Choo with Bethany Conway and Master Glen Shaw, 2014
Master Jeremy Blanford, Nicholas Kirkwood and Rachel Hamill, 2017
Master Patrick Peal, Edina McClelland and Camilla Elphick, 2018
Joe Ling received a Commendation, 2018
Orla O’Hagan received a Commendation, 2018
Helen Kirkum, Master Jonathan Hooper and Dimitri Gabellier, 2019
2019 finalists
Above: 2022 Winner, Sam Lilley Below: 2023 Winner, Jihwi Ahn
3rd Prize: Edina McClelland Commendations: Orla O’Hagan Joe Ling
2nd Prize: Ellie Gray
3rd Prize: Jiwon Joung
Sam Walker
Bethany Roberts
Winner: Rachel Hamill Commendations: Joanna Eden Yoon Yi Lee
2nd Prize: Dimitri Gabellier
Winner: Sam Lilley Commendations:
We wish all future participants the best of luck.
Winner: Jihee Ahn Commendation: Maartje Den Boer
Winner: Jihwi Ahn
Sneaker/Athleisure Award: Bobby Nangla
Katie Greenyer, Charlotte Olympia, Master Peter Lamble, Sam Lilley, Scott Emerson and Joachim Sedelmeier, 2022
2023 Finalists
Bobby Nangla with Master John Peal, 2023
Joanne Jorgensen with Bobby Nangla, 2023
Finalists and judges at the 2019 awards
Established in the early 1990’s in Northamptonshire, Goldline is a leading supplier of women’s and children’s footwear to the UK’s leading high street brands.
Everything is designed in-house by our specialist design team and manufactured in fully audited factories off-shore under the supervision of our UK and worldwide sub offices, and can offer a full 360 service from design to final delivery.
Strong working relationships are at the heart of everything we do and you’ll see it reflected in the excellence of our footwear and our service to you. goldlineuk.co.uk
Established in 1919, we are an independent testing and research organisation. We accredit laboratories, design, manufacture and install test equipment, and provide production efficiency solutions to customers around the world.
Our philosophy is that products can be safer, more durable and perform better through the application of research and innovation in collaboration with business.
We test products from a range of industries, including footwear, PPE, furniture, floor coverings and many more. Our vision is that wherever you are in the world, you will find products enhanced by SATRA technical expertise.
new.satra.com
Graduate Fashion Foundation
The Graduate Fashion Foundation (GFF) is a charitable organisation, and an essential part of the fashion industry.
It is the springboard for new talent, bringing together graduates, fashion educators, and leading industry figures in order to bridge the gap between education and employment.
The GFF annually presents Graduate Fashion Week, the largest showcase of BA fashion in the world. Held every June in London, GFW attracts thousands of guests with a packed schedule of catwalk shows, university exhibitions, talks, masterclasses and workshops from leading names in the fashion and retail industry.
Every year, the GFF launches awards to coincide with Graduate Fashion Week, to inspire students to become innovators, environmental leaders, employees, and educators while promoting cultural diversity and inclusivity within an international platform.
Awards are judged by industry professionals and ambassadors and are a prestigious accolade for graduates to receive.
Left: Keri Thornton recieving her Footwear Award, sponsored by Clarks. 2019.
Below: The winning design inspired by House of Holland
Above Left: Dimitri Gabellier recieving his Accessories Award, sponsored by YKK. 2019.
Above Right: The winning design
Below: Dimitri Gabellier with his award on the stand
Left: Hyunjee Park with her Footwear Award, sponsored by Size?. 2020
Drapers Footwear Awards
The footwear industry is renowned for its resilience, creativity and innovation.
From suppliers and manufacturers to brands and retailers, and the individuals who design shoes and serve customers, the sector has met and overcome the challenges of the evolving market and is a force to be reckoned with within the fashion retail industry.
Drapers is proud to celebrate the next generation of emerging talent with the Student Footwear Designer of the Year at the Drapers Footwear Awards at Grosvenor House, London.
2020 Winner Brandon Haley with his winning design
2022 Winner Tianey Setter with her winning design.
Below: Tianey alongside all 2022 category winners.
Fashanne Award
Fashanne champions talent, diversity, inclusion and sustainability; it is the Fashion Designers of the Future Awards which take place annually – providing a bridge between education and the world of work.
Fashanne exists to give the next generation a chance to showcase their creativity. It enables mentoring and internships with leading companies from the world of fashion and textiles, to help build long-term sustainable connections in a fiercely competitive industry, as well as helping future proof established brands with a pipeline of new generation designers.
Since the first show in 2016 more than 300 students have passed through the awards programme, with winners taking up internships and many going on to successful employment within the fashion industry.
Patrick Grant with 2018 winner Stephanie Douglas and founder Anne Davies
Right: The winning collection
Sam Lilley (middle) receiving his awards in Footwear and Accessory Design, and also the Daniel Hanson Award for Excellence, 2022
2022 winner Sam Lilley with his winning design and prototype sample
Left: 2023 winner Jihwi Ahn receiving her award (second left)
Above: An image from the catwalk
Right: The winning design prototype
MODA Footwear Award
The UK’s longest standing fashion trade show Moda, which takes place at NEC Birmingham, showcases incredible young talent and the future of footwear design.
The students are invited to display their innovative designs at the show, during which time the winner will be announced at an awards ceremony. Visitors to the show are also be given the opportunity to vote for their favourite design and the design with the most votes will receive the People’s Choice Award.
Above: The 2019 winning design
Right: 2019 winner Dimitri Gabellier receiving his award (second right)
Above: The 2020 winning design
Left: 2020 winner Finn Taberer receiving his award (right)
Above: 2023 winner Woosung Kim receiving his award, and the winning design
2024 winner Wunnai Tam receiving his award
Dame Zandra Rhodes with 2024 winner Wunnai Tam’s winning design
CONGRATULATIONS
DMU on 90 years of Footwear Design
We are proud to be a sponsor of Footwear Design at DMU, encouraging and collaborating with the future designers of the industry.
T&A Footwear is a Leicester based footwear brand, established in 2004. We have grown to become a leading footwear supplier for all genders. Dedicated to providing exceptional design, sales, quality and sourcing services.
Scan me
To find out more about T&A Footwear and opportunities!
Heavenly Feet is a Leicester based footwear brand that is proud of our Leicester heritage and the DMU alumni that have worked with us past and present.
We are a passionate team with over 100 years experience in footwear design. Providing comfort and style at incredible value.
Congratulations to DMU and the Team!
Our global alumni community includes graduates from De Montfort University and Leicester Polytechnic and spans over 180 countries. DMU for Life is proud of our commitment to supporting all DMU alumni with their post-graduation journey.
Nanette Westberg-Brown Class of 2008
Current Footwear Design course leader, and DMU alumna, Nanette Westberg-Brown was named as one of the 50 most influential people in the industry at the end of 2023. The British Footwear Association (BFA)’s annual Top 50 list celebrates people from manufacturing, teaching, design, and sustainability.
In 2024, Nanette became a Freeman of The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers.
‘I learnt all about footwear, its heritage and the craft of shoemaking and design during my own studies at DMU, so being able to now support and inspire the next generation of footwear superstars is incredibly rewarding.’
It was Nanette who discovered that the academic year of 2023/24 was to be Footwear Design’s official 90th anniversary. Having studied at DMU 2005-2008, and then returning in a teaching capacity in 2019, she felt she needed to know all about the programme that she has always been so passionate about.
Nanette Westberg-Brown’s 2008 Final Collection
Footwear has always captivated me due to the diverse areas it encompasses; such as research, design, production, manufacturing, history, performance, business, sports, and more. The primary reason I chose to study footwear at DMU is because of its extensive connections to various design and tech departments, unlike other institutions.
Whilst I was at DMU, I won several design awards. This led me to work with various brands and eventually start my own company, which has also won a few awards including the IMG Fashion Fringe and the British Fashion Council’s NewGen Award. Previous recipients of this prestigious award have included renowned designers such as Alexander McQueen, J.W. Anderson, Nicholas Kirkwood, and Erdem; I was the first non-London schooled designer to do so.
Although I still manage my footwear brand, I devote less time to it now as I have established a consulting company and I am currently working on publishing a footwear book. Undoubtedly, the Footwear course at DMU was excellent, but the most remarkable aspect of it was the individuals I encountered and how, years later, we remain connected through our diverse yet relevant experiences. Practically every project I have participated in since graduation has been associated with the people and networks I formed during that time.
Looking back, the most valuable skill I acquired during the three years I spent at DMU was becoming proficient in digital media, causing a significant transition from physical creativity to digital innovation. However, the most enjoyable aspect for me was hand-crafting shoes, and it still remains my favourite activity to this day.
My advice to prospective and current students - don’t forget to have fun with your creativity.
Liam Fahy Class of 2006
Born and raised in Zimbabwe, Liam Fahy studied at DMU 2003-2006. During this time, he experienced success early in his career when he was awarded several design awards including Drapers Student Designer of the Year and the Lineapelle Young Designer award. After graduating with honors, he won the inaugural Fashion Fringe Accessories award, judged by Manolo Blahnik and Colin McDowell, winning an internship with accessory designer Rupert Sanderson. He went on to launch his own brand, and in 2012 received the British Fashion Council NewGen award.
Above: The I-Ashi prototype sample, designed and made by Liam Fahy, 2006.
The I-Ashi original designs, Liam Fahy, 2006.
The I-Ashi original designs, Liam Fahy, 2006.
The I-Ashi prototype sample, Liam Fahy, 2006.
Before joining DMU I attended Babson College Business school in the USA, and completed an entrepreneurship course. I had always been eager to start my own brand, and I found DMU’s footwear course the perfect fit for me.
While I was at DMU, there were various collaborations with companies such as New Balance and Kate Spade. I had the opportunity to take part in a Sophia Webster ‘live’ project brief, which provided me with the chance to undertake an internship with the company in Shoreditch, London.
After completing my studies at DMU and my internship with Sophia Webster, I chose to start my own business, AVVES GOLF (www. avvesgolf.com). It is now the most popular golf shoe brand in Korea, due to the credibility of my education at DMU and the footwear design course being so well renowned there.
There are three memorable aspects from my DMU experience that stand out to me. First, the trip to Italy during the summer vacation, where we were able to attend the design course at the Italian design University Modartech, and had the chance to visit leather manufacturers and luxury design companies. Second, the ‘live’ brand projects. Students have the opportunity to work directly with the brand, getting their feedback and having project work seen by industry professionals. Lastly, the final year major project. Having learnt the basic skills within the first two years of study, students are able to do what we can do best for our final collection. There is also a chance to meet and network with other school students, faculties, and brand designers. You may get a chance to do one of these in other universities, but it is only at DMU that you can experience all of them!
Min Joo Kim (Sabrina) Class of 2019
At DMU everything you need is just there! You just need to keep an open mind, and embrace the opportunities that are made available to you. DMU not only provides work experience opportunities with great brands and companies, but there is also free language courses, sports, and even entrepreneurship lectures.
Sabrina Kim’s 2019 project for the Cordwainers Footwear Awards
I knew footwear design was the course for me as soon as I saw it in the DMU prospectus! I love fashion and designing and Footwear has always been hugely influential in my life. I have followed my Aunties footsteps into the industry and haven’t ever looked back.
Completing the DMU footwear design course had opened so many doors and allowed me meet so many interesting people in the footwear industry. It has allowed me to travel the world with my career and I have visited places I never thought I would. I have had to opportunity to share my experience as a mentor, both at Fashion Retail Academy and DMU, which I really love.
I was also recognised by the British Footwear Association in their Footwear50 - highlighting the most influential and inspiring people in the footwear trade in 2022, and I was super proud to be a part of it and this industry.
My current role is at ASOS as the Women’s Senior Footwear Designer. ASOS is at the heart of the UK fashion industry, designed in London, bringing young iconic British style to our 20-something customer. I am responsible for delivering a footwear range that is fashionable and relevant for our customer. As part of a design team, we work across all footwear product categories from essentials to premium styles. I have extensive knowledge of footwear construction, strong hand drawing skills and creating specifications sheets for factories to work from. We create seasonal digital trend boards including themes, key items and colours, every three months. ASOS is a fast paced, constantly evolving, fashion-loving environment and I am so proud to work here.
Managing a worldwide supply base to produce new ranges every quarter, guiding them to improve performance and constantly exploring new sources. Extensive global travel for the purpose of inspiration and research in other markets, trade fairs and product development trips. Fabric and trim sourcing in various countries.
I have worked on multiple collaborations such as House of Hackney, TTYA, MTV, Paralympics, Aimee Robertson & Mary Benson, working with different brands while keeping the ASOS aesthetic at the centre. We work closely with Buying and Merchandising teams on seasonal strategies, sustainability and longer-term strategic perspective for the department. Supporting and overseeing the training and development of junior members of the wider non-clothing team, and being a key role model within the company for my peers to look up to.
Roxy Smith
Class of 2007
Having a footwear specific degree from DMU opened the door into this industry for me and it was the beginning of my footwear journey. It taught me about the foundations of footwear and I still refer back to them to this day. Working with retailers and brands on various projects helped me to gain insight into the industry, receiving feedback from industry professionals really inspired me. It gave me an idea of what the industry was really was like. Learning about how shoes are made and grasping a deep understanding of footwear and components has been the foundation of my role today.
My advice to current and future students is to get as much industry experience as you can, practice your hand drawings skills and enjoy the creative freedom!
I’ve always been creative, and left school with the intentions of continuing down a creative path even though I had no real career goal or long-term plan in mind, so I began studying Fine Art at a foundation level. After a while I knew I needed to figure out what I wanted to do, or be, by the end of it. At the time, I worked in a shoe store and loved being around the product, choosing styles for customers and seeing new collections land in store - after considering this, the two avenues seemed to come together, and so I started to research footwear design as a career path. I loved that DMU had a hands-on approach; learning pattern making and how to make the shoes from scratch. I visited Leicester to get a better feel for the city, see the university and its facilities, and once I saw the studios and heard more about the programme and equipment available, I was sold.
Studying on the Footwear Design programme at DMU ultimately led to me being able to design for the Made-In-UK range at New Balance shortly after graduating. During my time at DMU I visited the UK factory in Flimby one summer and explained that I was studying footwear design and would love the opportunity for a tour to gain some insight/experience. I turned up with a single piece of paper with my contact details and a photo of a NB pullover I was making in my first year (it was truly terrible - yellow and blue quilted - terrible) and they were kind enough to invite me in. We spoke about the course I was on and what I wanted to do, and it ended up landing me a summer internship as a product developer (which I then went back and did for a second time in-between 2nd/3rd year). The developers really valued that I was on a course where I was learning the shoe making process and understood the more technical side of the process, as well as the limitations when making a product from an aesthetic perspective. After graduating, I went back to New Balance, but this time as a designer, where the Creative Design Manager (Sam Pearce) and one of the main product designers (Charlotte Lee) were also ex DMU students. We often discussed how much of a difference DMU made to our perspective as designers, the consideration of “how will this shoe be made,” “what does the production line look like” and even the ability to understand and draw up our own shell patterns/blueprints. All quite unique and somewhat rare skills, which can really set you apart from other applicants when applying for jobs.
Currently I am a Colour and Material Designer at Adidas Originals, based in Germany. My key responsibilities include seasonal colour & material updates for the women’s exclusives range as well as some of the kids’ range, working on shoes such as Superstar/Handball/Adimatic and Response CL. Since leaving university I realised my passion lay in colour and materials as opposed to product design. I looked back at my time in DMU and realised how the things I loved the most were exploring colour
Edina McClelland Class
of 2018
combinations, focusing on details, creating new graphics and even creating new materials - all through my sketchbook. Storytelling is something that is encouraged on the DMU Footwear Design course, and there was such a focus on ensuring you were guiding the reader through your process in your sketchbook - I think this is a skill that I’ll carry with me in all jobs.
When I was studying, I was so lucky to be surrounded by a really diverse, incredibly talented and multicultural mix of people who have gone on to do incredible things in many different ways - from heel designers to sneaker designers, formal bespoke shoemakers to footwear suppliers and manufacturers, and even those setting up their own companies. The amount of career options you have at the end of the course is limitless, and you can really use the
skills you gain at DMU in a wide variety of roles. The Footwear Design programme introduces you to a large and varied range of companies through ‘live’ project briefs, which give you a reallife insight into what a job in footwear would be like; including hearing feedback, working towards tight deadlines and also gaining confidence in presenting your work. The connections you make throughout your time at DMU stays with you throughout your career - the industry is so small that the people you meet at university will be the people that you will likely end up working alongside - I was referred for a role at Adidas thanks to my classmate who was working there and got in touch when a job opened!
The staff are extremely kind, personable and share a vast amount of industry experience with the students, guiding and mentoring students with their unique skills. Whilst I was at DMU I was given
opportunities to visit places like Lineapelle in Milan to experience a materials trade show, New York & Paris for inspiration and Northampton to see a production line/last making manufacturer which was an incredible experience that I haven’t really heard of in other courses. The Footwear Design course at DMU is incredible, and quite a unique opportunity for students who are interested in studying on a design or creative pathway. The course offers everything you need to pursue a career in footwear, both in terms of physical equipment and lesson structure, but also in the way that the staff treat and teach you. I joined the course without knowing a single thing about shoes, I couldn’t draw a shoe to save myself and had no idea if it was something I would even be good at, but the lecturers supported and guided me, encouraged me to explore my strengths and helped me to work on my weaknesses. I left the course feeling confident in my passion and with a portfolio that allowed me to quickly gain employment within the industry.
A selection of work by Edina McClelland, 2018
I had been a skateboarder of 10 years or so, and had a passion for customizing both football boots and skate shoes before deciding I would like to explore this career path. I studied manufacturing, engineering and graphic design before deciding to specialize in footwear design at DMU.
Since leaving the course, I’ve connected with people across the industry and I was afforded the opportunity to work on product both in the performance landscape and the lifestyle areas. I’ve created football boots for Lionel Messi and left my fingerprint on one of the most culturally significant football franchises in Adidas - Predator. Boots that I worked on were used and scored in the world cup final!
The team and I collaborated with a charity that I was associated with, and together we created a capsule collection with Adidas skateboarding, working towards gaining a listed heritage status for Southbank in London. We put together an exhibition in London, and all proceeds went to the re-opening of the space. I’ve been involved with a small team who worked with a special needs school to design a kit for Reading FC under the title of ‘Ryans Royals’; and I’ve also created a friends and family project for Metallica, with the fundraising proceeds donated to a food bank charity.
I’ve been lucky to be able to use footwear as a vehicle to see the world and meet some great people with shared passions, and to learn and grow from them. I currently work within the Innovation team at Puma in Herzogenaurach, as a material designer across both performance and lifestyle, working with our team to bring concepts to life.
Josh Gaylor Class of 2012
The DMU course connections were invaluable to me, as its credibility opened doors that I wouldn’t have had access to otherwise. Throughout my career it has been vital for things like Visa applications post-Brexit, as a specialist degree enabled me to gain employment that a general degree may not have. The standards at DMU are high - it really pushes what students are capable of.
All aspects of project management, and the technical aspects of pattern cutting and footwear manufacture are taught, and have been incredibly beneficial as a foundation to build a career upon. The industry is an evolving space which has multiple facets; Performance is a hard category to break into as it’s so niche, whereas Lifestyle can provide opportunities all over the world. Most employers are hiring for personality and passion, with skills being taught…your passion is your selling point, do it for you!
I had two natural interests growing up, sport and drawing, both of which I excelled at from a young age. Although my initial career in woodwork gave me an understanding of craftsmanship and quality, I always felt like I needed more fulfilment… I wanted to be the other side of the process, designing products and not just building them. I almost selected Automobile Design as my degree, but DMU offered the pattern and construction side of footwear which I felt spoke to my passion for physically making things.
I take great pride in giving something back to the course that allowed me to reshape my career, returning each year to lecture or set an industry level brief for the students. Taking the time to share my personal experiences and passion for what I do to inspire the next generation of designers.
My current role is Creative Design Manager at New Balance, working on global design and concept creation. I’m a brand historian and director of Made in UK footwear. I manage a 6-person design team out of our European HQ and split my time between a wide range of senior creative roles, by far the most meaningful and rewarding to me is our factory production in West Cumbria, England. Utilising our location and smaller batch production to lead by example in areas such as brand storytelling, responsible material sourcing and even renewable energy.
The DMU footwear design degree has played a key role in my development, following the completion of my 3rd year I was selected as the first international student to take part in the Pensole Design Academy internship in Oregon, USA. Without the footwear specific course and my resulting portfolio work this would never have been possible.
Samuel Pearce Class of 2010
I still use the technical skills gained during the course on a day-to-day basis, our factory in the UK develops totally new footwear so last taping, pattern cutting and sole engineering are all key skills I have taken and expended on from my time at DMU.
I always knew I wanted to go into sneakers and performance footwear, although the course didn’t historically specialise in these fields the tutors always encouraged me and made sure each module remained relevant. They also gave me a grounding and an appreciation for all types of footwear, designing women’s heels and more formal shoes
opened my eyes to new construction techniques and finishes I still reference today.
The course offers a great opportunity to learn a variety of new skills, from initial sketch work and pattern engineering to material usage and physical shoe making. I would advise both current and prospective students to throw yourself into each module and take advantage of the varied syllabus; there are very few degrees that successfully merge traditional techniques with contemporary design quite like this.
My original intention was to study Textile Design, but I excelled on the footwear course and found my home there. DMU has taught footwear design at degree level longer than anywhere else in the world, so I felt fortunate to study at the best.
Since graduating, I have had a long career in the footwear industry both in the UK and the US working for the world’s leading brands including Nike, Clarks, Nine West, UGG and most recently, TOMS. I have had my own successful business, leading design teams of +15 footwear designers, taught on footwear design courses, judged on footwear design competitions and even appeared on tv advising on careers in footwear. My work has appeared in Vogue and shown on runways at London Fashion Week, and I have also designed one style that sold over 8 million pairs. As a Design lead, it has been my honour to teach and mentor younger designers who have gone on to be successful designers themselves…. all of this started when I sat in the Kimberlin library one day, researching the collection of footwear books and magazines for a project on the footwear design course. I then realized that I wanted to be a shoe designer.
Today I am a freelance footwear designer and consultant in the U.S. I have lived and worked as a footwear designer here for over 20 years. My most recent full-time position was Head of Design at TOMS in Los Angeles. My key responsibility in any role I have taken is to create best-selling designs. I learnt at DMU that I had a talent and passion for designing shoe collections and that has never left me. Nothing is more rewarding, as a designer, than seeing your ideas become loved best sellers. The biggest challenge is constantly adapting to an ever-changing market, but I continue to find that challenge exciting and rewarding.
Rose Jones Class of 1987
Two things from DMU that helped me get ahead in a career in footwear design: Learning how to make shoes and projects/ competitions set by footwear brands. For example, I won an internship at Clarks as a student and several years later I returned to Clarks as Head of Women’s Footwear Design. A company like Clarks trusts graduates from DMU to understand all aspects of footwear design because of the comprehensive coursework. As a product design student, it is crucial to see an idea go from paper to prototype, and so to have all the resources that are
available at DMU that make that possible, is extremely enjoyable and rewarding.
Whether you have ambitions as a sneaker designer or a cutting-edge fashion footwear designer, or if you want to work for a huge global brand or be a bespoke footwear designer and shoemaker, you are going to gain all the fundamental skills you need on the footwear course at DMU. It is an opportunity to benefit from the availability of a range of resources which will set you up for the career you feel most passionate about.
I used to play football professionally alongside athletics training, and was always interested in the footwear within the sports, especially soccer boots and running spikes. I’ve always been creative, drawing/painting, but had no real direction until I found out I could combine the two and study Footwear Design, something I had an actual passion for, at university.
Since graduating I have travelled all over the world during my time as a footwear professional; I’ve visited various factories, stayed in some of the best hotels and met hundreds of amazing people across the globe. Typically, I travel twice a year to L.A, Tokyo, New York, Italy, Paris & London. I’ve created every type of footwear product you could think of, and that’s what DMU is great for, it covers all types of footwear creations.
I’m the lead designer covering all of men’s footwear and accessories for Menswear at Next, which over the past 4 years has become the biggest retailer of men’s nonsneakers and accessories. My main focus is the creative direction and application of trend in men’s non clothing, working on all aspects of footwear, last development, outsoles, uppers, materials, colour and branding.
In my opinion, the Footwear Design programme at DMU is the industry gold standard for new graduates entering the footwear industry. Most people that you come across, who are fellow footwear designers, are also DMU alumni.
The part of the course that separates it from all other design courses is the physical making of prototypes, it’s exactly why I chose to go to DMU. To be able to design/ create, spec and understand the workings of footwear is key in setting DMU graduates apart from others.
Michael Brown Class of 2008
My advice to current and prospective students is to keep pushing yourself to work harder, even if you think you are working hard already. Understand that your fellow students are not just your friends, but they are also your direct competition in getting a job after graduating. So, aim to be better than everyone else, work hard, listen and attend every opportunity that is offered to you (lectures, workshops, guest talks etc.) to be as prepared as you can possibly be for life after DMU.
I was also working in the customer service department at Clarks shoes before beginning my studies at DMU, which is wear my interest in footwear first began.
Whilst my A levels were varied, I had always been excited about the fashion industry and wanted to find a way to combine my problem-solving skills with my lifelong need to have a creative outlet. Being from Somerset I had always know that Clarks shoes were based in my hometown, however my interest in footwear design came from the opportunity to intern in the design and development department at Clarks. I met a designer Sophie Madden (now Edwards) who saw my creative abilities and informed me that she herself had done a degree in Footwear Design and advised me to research it for myself. That evening I returned home and discovered De Montfort University. I was particularly interested in DMU because of its campus lifestyle and the hands-on shoemaking course. After visiting on an open day, I applied immediately knowing this was the course and the university for me - something clicked and it felt right.
I am currently a Senior Footwear Designer at New Balance, based in the EMEA office in Warrington, UK. My key responsibilities include trend observation and analysis, design of totally new fashion footwear, colour and material design and designing alongside collaborative partners on special projects.
DMU gave me the in-depth formal footwear training background that has enabled me to focus on the form of a shoe. This means that I start the design process by looking at the overall shape and proportion of the concept I am creating. Having this focus on pattern cutting and shape enabled me to design the New Balance 327. Building this shoe took a lot of focus on material packages, construction and sculpting. Without the training that DMU gave me, I don’t believe my energy would have been focused on so many small details that made a larger overall impact to the product.
Charlotte Lee Class of 2014
As I approached my final project in my third year, I was looking at employment and internship opportunities. I had gained a specific interest in unisex sports/casual footwear in the second half of my degree and expressed my interest in this area to the tutors. I was made aware of the connection that DMU still had with a recent footwear design graduate Sam Pearce. Sam was a footwear designer at New Balance and was looking for an intern to join the team up in Warrington. I was fortunate enough to get the year paid internship and have been at new balance ever since, working my way from intern to where I am today as a Senior
Designer. The tutors at DMU have always encouraged a friendship like relationship with the alumni and if it wasn’t for that, I wouldn’t be in the role I am today.
In general, I found all aspects of the DMU footwear design course to be useful, inspiring and enjoyable. The pattern cutting and shoe construction training has laid the foundation for me, whilst the projects we did with GAP, El Naturalista and Bill Bird gave me a good understanding of commercial footwear design. I was one of two students sent on the Italian Footwear summer school placement at Instituto Modartech,
which was very inspiring and taught me another way of sketching, as well as my first trip to a leather tannery. Receiving lectures from guest tutors both internally from DMU and designers in the industry provided variety and an opportunity to learn from other professionals. As the DMU campus has amazing creative facilities I was able to use workshops such as plastic forming to aid the visualisation of my designs.
Footwear Design at DMU has so many different aspects of creativity built into the course, it will provide you with a strong footwear-led foundation which will set you apart from other product designers within your career in design. The focus on shoe making and construction is something you will not find at another university. Alongside the construction side, you will learn so much from trend forecasting, leather sourcing and conceptual footwear design visualisation, to biomechanics and the orthopaedic needs of footwear. The connections that this course has to design studios around the globe will aid your career into whatever area of product you wish to focus on. This course is held in high regard within the industry and I personally feel a great sense of connection whenever I meet someone in the industry who is also a DMU footwear design Alumni.
Lona Jones’s 1986 Final Collection
Cheryl Chua Hai Ning, 2018
Alumni student collections
A selection of work by Rachel Frost, 2011
Michele Yeeles’s 1988 Final Collection
Reuben Arnold’s 2006 Final Collection
A selection of interchangeable designs by Naveed Anwar, 2000
Dimitri Gabellier’s 2019 Final Collection
Dimitri Gabellier’s 2018 Whole-Cut Bespoke Shoe
Dimitri Gabellier’s 2019 MODA design
Jackie Leggett’s 1992 Final Collection
Yoon Yi Lee’s 2017 Final Collection
Ryan Roddy’s 2020 New Balance ‘live’ project
Ryan Roddy’s 2021 project for the Cordwainers Footwear Awards
Emma Allen’s 1991 Final Collection
Alex Blackman’s 2015 Final Collection
Anna Bailey’s 2004 Final Collection
Emily Wright’s 2003 Final Collection
Northstar is a global design & sourcing house dedicated to elevating footwear & apparel brands.
From the world’s biggest brands & retailers to startups, from technical performance wear to comfort, Northstar works as an extension of your business to help you scale without all the supply chain overhead. Northstar is your end-to-end design & production engine - allowing you to focus your resources where they matter most.
Design & Development: Launch new products faster. From concept to mass production, Northstar’s in-house design team and industry experts build the right product for your customer.
Sourcing: Improve visibility while lowering overhead. Northstar is your ‘boots on the ground’, ensuring production goes off without a hitch.
Quality Assurance: Delivery, guaranteed. Northstar’s global QC team audits factories, inspects production, and ensures on-time delivery.
northstarsourcing.com
FUTURE
Future of Footwear Design Education
As Footwear Design marks its 90th anniversary, parallels with the early days of the Department of Shoe and Boot Manufacture at Leicester College of Art and Design remain evident. While footwear styles, materials and design methods have changed immeasurably over this time, the course has kept to its original ethos to develop industry ready design graduates with practical skills in pattern cutting and construction.
Today, in 2024, as student designers contemplate the environmental and social sustainability design challenges, they are also considering material innovations and the need for circularity. Always ahead of the curve, today’s students are focussed on the integration of immersive digital techniques with hand craft methods. Class of 2023 graduate, Bobby Nangla illustrated this perfectly in his ‘Digital Cobbler’ collection which combined digital 3D modelling in virtual reality (VR) to create a 3D printed outsole with a hand-crafted leather upper.
This set the scene for a pioneering external client project with software developers Gravity Sketch and global brand adidas originals on a design brief to be undertaken entirely in VR. Students have been equipped with headsets and VR controllers to use the software
to develop their designs in a virtual environment. A new virtual community has been developed in VR with the adidas designers from their German HQ and Leicester based tutors supporting students with tutorials in the digital environment. It really does speak to the science fiction writer and visionary, Arthur C. Clarke’s predictions in 1964, where he says that communication advances will shrink the world to a point. It will mean that humans will not commute, they will communicate.
Jake Collinson 3D modelling a design using a VR headset and Gravity Sketch software
So, what does the future hold for footwear design education. There is no doubt that artificial intelligence (AI) will be a huge feature with generative AI already being used to predict fashion trends. Materials innovation will continue at pace, The extended producer responsibility legislation being introduced is bound to have an impact on footwear manufacture, to minimise the environmental impact through reuse, recycle and repurpose. Designers will work in virtual communities creating product for real life and to be worn by a digital twin. Soft avatars will be used to assess fit. Augmented reality will make it possible to
try on before production to minimise waste through a sell before manufacture model.
This vision of an automated world does make you think that the value of human design and craft skills may well be become aspirational and reserved for the luxury market. The future is exciting, and I know Footwear Design education at De Montfort University will continue to embrace advances in technology while maintaining a focus on practical skills to ensure its position as a leading Footwear Design educator.
Professor Carolyn Hardaker Head of School of Fashion and Textiles
Right: Digital Cobbler by Bobby Nangla
Below: Prototype sample by Bobby Nangla
RECOGNITION
It is a pleasure to thank the following partners and individuals for their support with BA (Hons) Footwear Design and the 90th anniversary exhibition.
Industry Support
Pentland Brands Limited
The Footsoldiers Design Consultancy Ltd.
T&A Footwear Limited
Heavenley Feet Limited
Northstar Sourcing
SATRA Technology Centre Limited
Goldline UK Limited
Walk This Way Footwear and
Accessories Ltd.
NOVI UK Ltd
Annette Cove Associates Ltd.
The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers
The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers
The British Footwear Association
Sophia Webster and Kathleen Connors, Sophia Webster Ltd.
Lizzie Beeby, The Learning Works UK Ltd
Rebecca Shawcross, Northampton
Museums & Art Gallery
Darren Abel, Royal & Derngate
Redpix, DMU professional photography
Ady Kerry, DMU alumni photography
Printed by the DMU Print Centre
De Montfort University
Professor Carolyn Hardaker
(Head of School of Fashion and Textiles)
Nanette Westberg-Brown
(Programme Course Leader, Footwear Design)
Jonathan Morss
Phil Stewart
Michaela Wilson-George
Ruth Jindal
Rob Leary
Ray Yau
Simon Hearn
Will Baker
Dan Cowlam
Neil Donaghue
Ben Marlow
Mogan Kerslake
Kira Allder
Steven Slack
Kevin Holdaway
Michaela Hawes
Louisa Day
Anna Wang
Gillian Proctor
Katie Slovak
Hugo Worthy
Natalie Hayton
David Millns
Katharine Short
Steven Peachey
Elizabeth Wheelband
Andrea Jones
References from the DMU Special Collections Archive
Academic Board Committee Minutes. DGA/A/01/C. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/DGA/A/01/C
Board of Governors Committee Minutes, 1882-2015. DGA/A/01/A. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/DGA
Browse Collection of Arts and Fashion Pamphlets, 1930-1951. BR. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/BR
DMU Exhibition Catalogues. DE/K/02. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/DE/K/02
DMU News. ‘Footwear lead at DMU named in industry’s Top 50 Influencers’. 13-Dec-2023. Accessible at: https://www.dmu.ac.uk/ about-dmu/news/2023/december/footwear-design-lead-at-dmu-named-in-industrys-top-50-influencers.aspx
DMU Press Cuttings. DM/D. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/DM/D
Papers of Howard William Young, Instructor in Boot and Shoe Manufacture, 1950-60s. D/093. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/093
Photographs of Classes at Leicester School of Arts and Crafts, 1924-34. D/028. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/028
Portraits of Staff and Governors, Leicester Polytechnic and Predecessors. John Hawthorn, 1930. D/054/13. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester.
Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/054/13
Prospectuses, 1897-2017. Marketing for De Montfort University and Predecessors. D/009/A Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/009
Roll of Honour, City of Leicester School of Arts and Crafts, 1919-1920. D/042. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/042
Royal Visit to De Montfort University, 8th March, 2012. DE/J/02/002. Held at DMU Special Collections, Leicester. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/DE/J/02/002
Trade Advisory Committee Minutes. Committee Minutes of De Montfort University and Predecessors. D/001/B. Link to catalogue: https://specialcollections.catalogue.dmu.ac.uk/records/D/001/B
DMU News. ‘DMU care packs boost student learning in lockdown and beyond’. 05-March-2021. Accessible at: https://www.dmu.ac.uk/about-dmu/news/2021/march/dmu-care-packs-boost-student-learning.aspx
Secondary Sources
150 Years of DMU: Articles about DMU’s History. https://library.dmu.ac.uk/specialcollections/DMUat150
Bassett, Rachel. ‘Sophia Wester on her new book, sketching challenges and ADHD being her superpower.’ in Harper’s Bazaar Arabia. 13-Feb-2024. https://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/fashion/accessories/sophia-webster
British Footwear Association https://britishfootwearassociation.co.uk/history-of-shoe-fashion/
Google Maps. Accessible at: https://www.google.com/maps
Hoskins, W.G. Ancient and Historical Buildings in the Vicinity of Portland Shoe Works, Leicester. Leicester: T. Roberts and Sons., 1948.
Oehler, Christina. ‘Royal wedding shoes are the detail you’ve been missing.’ in Brides. 22-July-2022. Accessible at: https://www.brides.com/gallery/royal-wedding-shoes
Redin, Dorothy. ‘Hidden meaning behind Princess Diana’s £50,000 wedding shoes that had to have a low heel.’ in Daily Express. 6-August-2023. Accessible at: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/style/1798519/princess-diana-wedding-shoes-hidden-meaning
SATRA website. ‘A century of change in the footwear industry’ Accessible at: https://www.satra.com/bulletin/article.php?id=2616
Spranklen, Annabelle. ‘The finest royal wedding shoes of all time.’ in Tatler. 10-June-2021. Accessible at: https://www.tatler.com/gallery/royal-wedding-shoes
