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AUG 2018 ISS 113 £7.99
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Hello... August Is there anything better than heading down to the beach with an ice-cream in hand and the sun shining down on you? For me, that’s when I know summer has finally begun! This month’s two FREE patterns are perfect for seaside strolls and more. New Look 6341 offers four versatile maxi and knee-length dresses with an option for delicate lace sleeves, plus there’s New Look 6513 with four simple tunics that you’ll be itching to stitch up in colourful printed poplins. Why not start with a classic stripe? We’ve got plenty to choose from on page 20 in an array of zesty sorbet shades and pastels. In addition to these eight summer essentials, you’ll also find our spotty Valentina dress on page 28, which will scream Hollywood screen siren from the moment you slip it on. There’s the frill-tastic Violet top (p32), that will keep you looking chic with minimum effort, plus the Stella skirt (p24), which will have you dreaming of French flea markets and dusky evening strolls in Rome. For those of you who are jet-setting over to sunnier climes, be sure to make our easy glasses case on page 51 – not only will it protect your sunnies, you’ll up your sewing skillset by learning to stitch with leather (p71). We’ve pooled together all the travel essentials you’ll need too, such as a rucksack, sleeping mask, passport cover and more (p70). Kick back and relax with a glass of something fizzy before delving into this month’s reads. Figure-flattering style is yours for the taking with our spotlight on Balenciaga (p37), and we take a peep into the life of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo on page 90 – it’s sure to inspire you to pep up your summer colour palettes and get creative with florals. Finally, before I go, don’t forget to flick to page 58 where you’ll find all the information you’ll need about this year’s Sew Saturday.
13
Lucy xx
Lucy Jobber, Sew editor
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in your August issue... 67 51
60
Meet our mascot!
73 IN EVERY ISSUE 03 Welcome
Come and say hello!
06 Who, what, wear
What’s trending in the sewing world
17 Sew social
You’ve been sharing your makes
44 Stitch & learn
Our round-up of sewing classes and tools
53 Sew wishlist
The team’s top picks for August
84 Your sewing guide
Stitchy jargon explained!
87 The books we’re loving The latest must-reads
89 Next month
Our September issue’s out on 26th July
TEA BREAK
37 Shaping secrets
Every body is beautiful – so embrace yours!
58 Sew Saturday
Get the low-down on the most exciting event of the year!
90 Style icon: Frida Kahlo Delve into the Mexican artist’s wardrobe
KIDS
56 Susie Johns’ baby shoes Master a new stitch with these sweet shoes
67 Meet Tina Tentacles Our August mascot is making waves!
GIFTS
52 Glasses case
Try your hand at leather stitching
71 Document wallet Keep your travel essentials safe
71 Passport sleeve
A one-of-a-kind make
71 Card holder
Sew a pretty pouch
80 Jam jar cover
This project is jam packed with creativity
80 Floral tea cosy
Home is where the tea is!
81 Cafetière jacket
Keep your coffee piping
81 Egg warmers
An egg-cellent addition to your table
81
HOME
64 Confessions of a sewing addict
Corinne Bradd reflects on summer evening makes
66 Storage pots
Perfect for your sewing bits ‘n’ bobs
66 Butterfly cushion A playful accessory for any room
67 Circle bag
A stylish purse for all occasions
66
70 Stuart Hillard
Our columnist delves into the world of mindfulness
72 Eye mask
Catch some zzz’s
We love!
72 Neck pillow
Travel in ultimate comfort
73 Travel rucksack
Ideal for your summer ventures!
FIND A BONUS BAG ON P66
81 04
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56
FREEBIES & OFFERS
82 20% off dragonfly fabrics
6 76
2 Dressmaking
FREE PATTERNS THIS MONTH!
30
pages of fashion, garments & more!
10 Stunning dresses Sew the ultimate summer frock with your FREE pattern 13 Trendsetting tops Use your FREE pattern to make four pieces
28 Valentina dress Give ‘em a twirl in this retro number! 30 Sewing SOS Our experts’ top tricks and tips for sewing with knit fabric
20 Timeless stripes Never stop looking fabulous with these fabrics 22 Rosalind top Stitch a cute garment 24 Stella skirt Inspired by glamorous fifties style! 26 Sewing with Tilly Master the art of the dart
32 Violet top Get the frill of a lifetime with our make 34 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks 36 Stitch the look The must-have fabric for staying cool this summer 40 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools ...for pro results
41
13 41 Suki kimono This versatile top can be worn with every outfit 46 Debbie Shore’s show & tell The straight-forward tutorial for attaching a lapped zip 48 Love your machine Invest in top-quality Juki machines
06 20% OFF Dragonfly Fabrics
You’ll be spoilt for choice with their gorgeous material
07 20% OFF sateen fabric
Stock up your stash with Minerva Crafts this summer
55 Create & Craft reader offer Claim your six pack of Mr Men and Little Miss fat quarters
76 Reader offer
Claim your FREE Stitch Style Sweet Dreams book, worth £12.99
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TWO dressmaking patterns! DRESSES & COVER-UPS
wear
who what
&
The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!
the big stitch Enter British Heart Foundation’s The Big Stitch competition from 1st-15th July. Simply pop into your nearest BHF shop, treat yourself to a piece of clothing and upcycle it into something wonderful. Once you’ve finished, upload your ‘before’ and ‘after’ images on social media using the hashtag #TheBigStitch to enter. For more information, visit bhf.org.uk/thebigstitch
Sunny Stitches Funk up your garments with Wool and the Gang’s take on hand embroidery. The new Sunny Stitches kit offers two sheets of designs, including on-trend monstera leaves, beach shells and flamingos. You’ll also find inside six skeins of DMC Mouliné thread, a sewing needle, plus an easyto-follow stitch guide. £20, woolandthegang.com
20% off
Dungarees Delight
Brand new from Closet Case Patterns, Jenny is a modern interpretation of classic overalls and wide leg trousers, complete with an ultra-high rise, and sleek, functional details for a comfortable all-day fit. There are also optional details abound: mix and match with curved slash pockets, a faux fly front, single or double zipper waistband and patch pockets. closetcasepatterns.com
*
Paper
Dragonfly Fabrics
*Valid from 28th June until 31st August 2018 on all cottons and rayons at dragonflyfabrics.co.uk. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer
The first glimpse of sunshine means it’s time to reach for lovely lightweights, which is why Dragonfly Fabrics is offering every one of our readers 20% of all cotton and rayon fabrics. Enter code ‘SEW61’ to receive your discount. Visit dragonflyfabrics.co.uk
20% off!*
A Life in Pattern From the iconic stem to retro florals, Orla Kiely’s work is a feast to behold for print fanatics. To coincide with the A Life in Pattern exhibition at The Fashion and Textile Museum, London (25 May – 23 September), this accompanying title shares the evolution of Orla’s designs, as well as celebrating her love of colour and fabric. £25, amazon.co.uk
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if you buy one pattern...
Oliver Bonas Heroic Stripe Midi Dress £69.50, oliverbonas.com
We’re all about the frills this month, and this fabulous Simplicity 8414 pattern from Cynthia Rowley certainly packs in a ruffle or two. Available in sizes XS through to XL, you can choose from multiple lengths and features, such as a pintucked bodice and statement flared sleeves. £8.95, simplicitynewlook.com
Love stripes? Turn to p20 for our pick of the best!
want it, need it, BUY IT! If you’re looking for the very latest in machine technology, you’re sure to be blown away by the latest Juki model, HZL-NX7. A reliable and high-quality design, stitchers will be treated to functions, such as a touch screen interface, a wide sewing area – perfect for quilting and dressmaking – plus 351 different stitch patterns. It also comes with a compact accessory box to store your sewing essentials. For more information, visit franklinsgroup.com
Poppy & Jazz
20% off!*
Designed for babies aged 0-24 months, Sew Over It’s new Poppy & Jazz patterns are practical, everyday staples that are as comfy as they are cute. The collection includes five PDFs to download: Dandelion Dungarees, Daisy Dress, Honeydew Hoodie, Strawberry Sweatshirt and Tangerine Trousers. Visit sewoverit.co.uk
20% OFF* sateen fabrics
Stock up your sateen stash with Minerva Crafts this summer! Ultra-soft and silky to the touch, this luxe fabric is a must for simple sun dresses and beyond. To claim your discount, simply enter code SATEENSALE at the checkout. minervacrafts.com
*Valid from 28th June until 31st August 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.
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Stitch it with
dress
the
making
collection
Sunshine and blue skies are here, which means it’s time to whip up some summer basics! This month’s duo offers versatile staples designed to keep you cool and effortlessly chic. Get started with New Look 6513, which provides four top and frock options, before delving into maxis and more with your second free pattern, New Look 6341. Violet top, p32
Stella skirt, p24
Valentina dress, p28
Suki kimono, p41
Turn the page and get started today!
&
help
here to
Your bonus FREE pattern! p13
get stitching
your free patterns
DEBBIE SHORE The author and presenter shares her top tips for lapped zip success.
SUSIE JOHNS Our resident embroidery expert shares a new stitch technique.
FIONA HESFORD Stitch a simple cover-up with our designer’s step-by-step tutorial.
PAT BRAVO The Art Gallery Fabrics textile guru shares her essential knit knowledge.
P46
P56
P41
P30
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STITCH Stitch ITitWITH with
your free pattern
of your
potential
Discover the
patterns
This month, your TWO FREE patterns bring together eight light and airy makes to see you through the summer season. Grab New Look 6341 and start creating your capsule dress selection, which includes both maxi and knee lengths to choose from. Pretty up the sleeves with a touch of lace, or dare to go bare with options A and D. Plus, you can also master the figure-flattering art of princess seams. Turn the page to find out what your second pattern has to offer.
working with LACE
Prym size 60 or 70 universal sewing machine needles, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com
This ultra-fine fabric looks simply stunning on most garments, but it has been known to break dressmakers out in a sweat! As variation B only includes the lace sleeves and back section, it’s perfect for dipping your toes into this tricky fabric. Take it slow, choose the correct scissors when cutting to prevent unsightly fraying, then use pins designed for lace to hold each section securely in place.
pick your NEEDLE
Your FREE Simplicity pattern can be made up in a variety of lightweight fabrics, from silky crepes to breezy cottons. Machine needles in sizes 60 or 70 will work best for a neat finish. Look out for ‘universal’ on the packet as it’s the most commonly used for woven fabrics, as well as knits.
Bargain
FABRIC BUY!
Stretch lace in bright pink, £6.99 per metre, online-fabrics.co.uk
tailor your SLEEVES
Before you cut your lace, take a measurement of your arm, including the circumference of your bicep and the length from armpit to wrist. This will help you to decide whether you need to make any pattern adjustments as you go along. If you’ve got extra fabric to hand, stitch a tester and slip it over your arm, then move about – just as you would in the dress – to make sure it’s comfortable.
choose a THREAD
While the floral print we’ve chosen has multiple colours in, almost every pattern has one shade that is predominate – if not, go for the background tone. Take a sample of your chosen material with you when you go to purchase the thread for the closest possible colour match. This ensures the stitching will easily blend in for a neat finish.
Floral Jardin print in stretch cotton, £11.99 per metre, minervacrafts.co.uk
chasing WATERFALLS
flatter your FIGURE
We picked a beautiful cotton fabric with 3% spandex. This allows the fabric to stretch across the width, which is particularly handy when making fitted styles as it’s much more forgiving. Remember when working with prints, always buy extra so that you can easily pattern match.
2FREE
Option C offers a glamorous high-low hem. Why not make the most of this unique feature with a double-sided fabric or a contrast colour lining? A flash of something bright will make a real statement – just remember to choose a thread that will easily blend in with both fabric sides.
Use Mettler Seralon universal polyester thread in Roseate and Cream to colour match the lace and floral print, £1.59 for 100m, minervacrafts.com 10
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Prym bridal and lace pins, £4.65 per pack, johnlewis.com
STITCH Stitch it ITwith WITH
4 chic
your free pattern
style selector
dresses
style a A-LINE STYLE Perfect for creating that enviable hourglass figure, the simple A-line is quick to make but offers bags of styling potential.
style B
LOVELY IN LACE Take this basic A-line frock to new heights with lace set-in sleeves, plus a matching scoop-neck panel in the back.
style c CAPPED MIDI There’s no need for a cover-up on chilly nights, simply add capped sleeves to your summer midi dress instead.
why we made Style B
This option offers the opportunity to master princess seams and the concealed zip, as well as offering a fantastic introduction to lace.
style D
HIGH-LOW HEM This waterfall design will add a touch of va-va voom to your occasion wear, giving the illusion of lengthier pins.
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the perfect
size
the right
Stitch it with
fit
Make with your 6341 pattern
your free pattern
what’s your size? Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.
STITCHING ROYALTY
Princess seams add figure-flattering lines that help emphasise your curves. When creating your dress, clearly mark or cut your pattern notches as they are essential for effective shaping. Also, make sure you prevent your princess seams from distorting by protecting them with stay stitching.
fasten it up
Invisible zips are a neat way to add a fastening to your garment, and aren’t as tricky as you might think to master. Invest in the right machine foot for the job so you can stitch as close to the teeth as possible – keep an eye out for an invisible zipper foot instead of a regular one. To avoid gathers, keep the fabric taut and the zipper tape loose while you stitch.
LOVE YOUR LACE
Before you get started, gently soften the lace by soaking it in washing powder as it will often be stiff when you first purchase it. If you’ve chosen a lace with an open weave, buy extra and practise stitching with it first as it can be prone to disappearing into the feed dog of your machine. One way to avoid this is to sew a seam down the centre of a cotton fabric scrap; leave the needle down, lift the presser and place the lace underneath before continuing to sew. 12
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Style B comes wit a delicate lace back dethail
Stitch it with
with your
get creative
free pattern
Your New Look 6513 pattern, worth £6.95, offers up four tops and tunics, with plenty of options for customisation. Pop on simple capped sleeves or keep cool in Variation B’s sleeveless style, add a waist-cinching tie and softly pleated front for subtle feminine chic, before finishing off with a pretty trim around the sleeves and neckline. This tunic is a match made in heaven for lightweight cottons and printed poplins.
Use Mettler Seralon universal polyester thread in River Mist and Corn Silk to create our tunic dress, £1.59 for 100m, minervacrafts.com
Blue with white flowers bias binding, £1 per metre,
need a THREAD
gillybee.co.uk
A universal 100% polyester thread won’t fray or break, and will see you through many more projects once you’ve finished creating your tops, so stock up on a selection of neutral shades. Just be careful when pressing your seams with a hot iron as this thread can’t handle hot temperatures.
cut to PERFECTION
Running short on time? Rotary cutters are a fantastic way to speed things up, while keeping accuracy, however there’s a few ground rules you need to know before you start snipping. Invest in a good-quality cutting mat to prevent damage to your craft desk, then press firmly with an even pressure to cut through multiple layers – you may find it easier to stand up. Push away from your body at all times, and once your blade begins to get dull, carefully switch it out with a fresh one.
TRIMS and binding
It’s incredible how quickly a garment can be elevated with a simple bias binding trim. If you don’t fancy going down the shop-bought route, dive into your scrap stash and whip up your own. Think about the width you’d like your binding to be, then times it by four. Cut the fabric strip at a 45 degree angle. Fold and press your strip in half lengthwise, then open and bring the top edge down to meet the centre crease, and bring the bottom edge up to meet the centre too. Press, then secure onto your chosen area. You can also use a bias binding folder to simplify the process even further.
Our dressmaker used Pebble Mosaic Cotton lawn in ivory, £15 per metre, fabric godmother.co.uk
game, set, MATCH
time for PLEATS
Folding, pinning, ironing and sewing are all essential to the perfect pleat. To make sure that this design detail is crisp and even, keep a small ruler to hand to ensure each one is evenly spaced before pinning. The iron will also be your best friend in this process. Remove the pins before you start, then cover lightweight cotton with a pressing cloth to avoid indentations in the fabric.
Un-matched prints on a garment can stick out like a sore thumb, but can easily be avoided once you know how. First things first, always call in more fabric than you need, especially when it comes to large prints. It’s helpful to match up the most visible seams first – centre front and back are your main priority. Cut out a single piece, then take away the paper pattern and use the cut piece of fabric as your pattern for trimming the second piece.
Why not try a pretty floral instead? Esme cotton lawn in green will brighten up any outfit! £10 per metre, fabric godmother.co.uk 13
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Stitch it with
FOUR
your free pattern
style selector
stylish tunics!
style a
CAP IT OFF Ideal when paired with leggings, this classic tunic sits just below the bottom and offers up capped sleeves and a bow neckline.
your free pattern
style b
EASY TUNIC For a quicker make, keep the tunic style – which is slightly shorter than style A – but leave off the sleeves. It can be whipped up in a couple of hours.
style c
SUBTLE TRIM Don’t be afraid to add a feminine touch with a delicate trim around the neckline and sleeves, as well as a sweet tie at the back.
Make with younr 6513 patter
the prep STEP
Lightweight fabrics, such as cotton lawn, are really simple to work with, but a little bit of preparation will ensure you get an even more polished finish. Pre-wash your lawn as this fabric can often feel slippery after purchasing. Once dry, if the fabric still lacks grip, loosely spray with starch before pressing. Finally, before your mark up your pattern, steer clear of pens as the ink can stay in the fabric fibres, and use a water soluble pencil instead.
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Stitch it with
your way
dream
make it
machines SAVE £209
XR37NT
The traditional XR37NT is a full-sized automatic sewing machine with 37 built-in stitches to choose from. For ease of use, you’ll find an automatic needle threader, an automatic onestep button hole and quick set bobbin. There’s also a three-year warranty and instructional DVD included.
£349
why we made Style A
This simple tunic top is flattering on all figures, and can be drawn in at the waist with the tie at the back. It’s also a great opportunity to perfect the pleat.
INNOV-IS 27SE
The Brother Innov-is 27SE has 50 built-in stitches to choose from, which can be selected with the easy-to-use electronic jog dial. Choose from five styles of one-step automatic buttonhole, a drop feed for free motion sewing, plus a hard case to keep your machine looking spick and span.
Visit brothersewing.co.uk
Sizes 10-22 (US)
Sizes XS-XL
Next month’s 2 FREE patterns 15
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EASY-SEW STAPLES
Choose from simple A-line dresses and four easy cover-ups with your TWO FREE patterns!
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sew YOU!
We’re always so impressed with our readers’ fabulous projects, and this month is no exception! Keep up the good work sewists, and don’t forget to send in your latest makes... I’ve embroidered a heart for the WW1 Sawdust Heart Project to commemorate 100 years of Armistice Day and to help raise funds for the charity, Combat Stress. I’m using the embroidered cards my great- granddad sent home from the war as inspiration.
The dress is a Simplicity pattern and the jacket is from the floral bolero jacket pattern on your website – both are such amazing fits! I must give a shout out to WRAP as this outfit was made from scrap leftovers. Jo Donnelly
No matter how glorious it is outside, it’s never an entirely good day without a spot of sewing... So, here are my rice filled patterned weights. Monika Danielak
Charmaine West
My new scissor holder was created with some leftover fabric I had used to make my friend a yoga bag. MJ Stone
I’m working on hand-sewing an artist’s picture of a poppy field – I have a feeling it’s going to take a while! Delphine Brooks
p67
Say Hello to Tina Tentacles!
chosen by you
Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot. “I chose Tina Tentacles as the name for your mascot because she looks like a girl – she would look fabulous with eyelashes! Also, it’s an easy name for the little ones to pronounce as I think Tina will be loved by all ages”. Debs Homer, Sew reader Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 17
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Debs has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk
Continued overleaf
social
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
Write in and WIN! My grandson Jacob’s nursery recently held a Superhero Day and I was asked to make him a ‘Super J’ costume. It was my second time using a knit fabric and I was happy with the result – as was Super Jacob! His teacher loved the costume so much that she wore the cape, a Simplicity 2571 pattern, whilst he played in the ball-pit!
I came across this New Look pattern in a charity shop. When a stock of material came into the fabric store I work at, I told a colleague it would be perfect for the top. It has a soft crepe feel and washes brilliantly with no ironing required – what a bonus! I’ve had many compliments on it.
www.minervacrafts.com
Lesley Langlands
I stitched this two-piece and coordinating bag to wear to Margate Meltdown last spring bank holiday. I have my signature go-go black boots with white circles to match. Laura Dickson
Susan Regnante Finally finished the patchwork pouffe I’ve been working on! I accidentally misread the pattern to begin with, and the pouffe took up half the living room! So, I had to cut it up and make it again, but it’s a much better size now. Kelly Miller
This self-drafted skirt was stitched for my hen do the other Saturday – it only took me 30 minutes and I love the pleated fabric! I’m really enjoying making my own clothes, and I can’t wait to sew some more. Rebekah Playfair
on the sew blog...
We have devised some top tips to prevent you dashing for the nearest shop-bought ensemble!
Our designer Fiona Hesford shares the story behind her BAFTA frock.
We take a look back at some of our favourite Crafts Channel videos...
Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18
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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
e r a h s & h c t i t s
HHHH HH
! hy triumphs with Sew Share your latest stitc
sew
going SWIMMINGLY
H
STAR
I made this seahorse as I was inspired by the seahorse toy project in Sew! Kerri-Ann Briggs
letter
H
simply purr-fect I made this adorable cat pouch. Lia Zamzam
step back in time
I was inspired to create this project when I bought a deconstructed Victorian muslin dress at auction. After doing a lot of research, I decided to use fabric sourced from Hopkins to mirror the original garment’s lilac print. This creation was one of my undergraduate final pieces, and was displayed at The Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama design exhibition, 2018, in both Cardiff and London!
strawberries & cream I stitched giant strawberries for my granddaughter’s fair. Loraine Aves
Elin Steele
DACHSHUND PEG BAGS
I started collecting bottle caps because of their interesting designs and I thought, ‘why not incorporate them into my sewing?’ as I was interested in using recycled materials in my work anyway. This one is a Brew Dog cap, my favourite because of its bold design.
I stitched some peg bags in the hope the weather stays lovely. Claire Dolby
super sweet Don’t you just love making baby bibs? Aisha Thomas
Jane Wotnots
Like many, I don’t always read the full pattern, so was shocked when the bear turned out to be 54cm high! But, she was an easy make with the Simplicity 8155 pattern and looks adorable.
FLAMINGOOD I created this Liberty print blouse from Sew’s June issue. Tammy Ablitt
Brenda Jane
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19
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beach hut STRIPES Coco Chanel introduced the classic Breton stripe to the fashion world through her 1917 nautical collection, and the print still appears on clothing over 100 years later! A wide vertical stripe in trousers will lengthen the leg, whereas a well-placed horizontal will flatter your figure, and verticals are ever-so-slimming. From the classic print comes arrays of alternatives – coloured stripes are intriguing illusions and famously slimming, and this season, ice-cream shades are flavour-ites on the catwalk!
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3
1
Bargain
FABRIC BUY!
7 5
Cotton spandex in gradient rainbow, £8.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk Kokka cotton linen blend barkcloth in country lane, £20 per metre, raystitch.co.uk All Stars cotton in marigold stripe, £13.60 per metre, sewhot.co.uk Circular ribbing in multi stripe green, £16 per metre, fabricsgalore.co.uk Merryn Mermaid wavy stripe in pink, £13 per metre, thesewingcafe.co.uk Cotton spandex in red and white stripe, £12.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk Shirting stripe in pine, pistachio and pink, £7.99 per metre, dittofabrics.co.uk Circular ribbing in multi stripe pink, £16 per metre, fabricsgalore.co.uk
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Keep cool and sew our
sew a BOXY TOP
ROSALIND TOP
Get started
• Fabric, 80cm (144cm wide) • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm • One button, 1cm
Sizes 8-16
Cutting guide
Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut two Front neck facing: cut two in main fabric, two in interfacing Back neck facing: cut two in main fabric, two in interfacing Tie: cut two Button loop: cut one on the diagonal grain 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
Made from stunning Sea Island cotton lawn, this boxy top is ideal for picnics in the park and hot summer evenings. With a front neckline pleat detail, the Rosalind top pairs fantastically with cropped trousers or a gathered skirt. The tie is also a beautiful finishing touch – wear at the front or back to create a waist-cinching effect.
4
Fold the rouleau in half lengthwise and pin at the back of the neck top left. Adjust to the button size and tack to hold. Sew each side of the short lengths to the body and trim the excess ends. Clip the curves at the seam allowances, then run the facing inside out and push out the corners at the back neck. Press and secure the facing pieces at the shoulder with hand stitches.
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5
2
6
3
7
Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Finish the centre edges on the back pieces. Sew together, leaving the top section open, then press the seam open. Pin and tack a pleat at the centre front neck. Join the front and back at the shoulder seams, finish the raw edges, then press the seam towards the back. Topstitch the right side shoulder, 3mm from the seamline.
Press fusible interfacing to the reverse of all three neck facing pieces. Stitch the back facing pieces along the short sides to either side of the front facing section, right sides together, and press open. Finish the raw outer edge of the facing piece, pin right sides together to the neck raw edge, then tack and sew. To make a rouleau loop, fold fabric diagonally in half lengthways and stitch a 1cm seam, leaving long thread ends. Tie the thread ends through the eye of a blunt-ended needle and push in and out the other side of the tube, easing the fabric as you go, before pulling the tube inside out.
Fold the tie pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together. Starting at the straight end, sew down one side, leaving long threads at the pointed end. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm, then tie the thread ends through the eye of a blunt-ended needle and push in and out the other side of the tube, easing the fabric as you go. Turn the tie pieces inside out, press, then finish the short end edges. Stitch the front to the back by making a double fold 1cm hem at the front and back side edges, press, then create a 2cm hem at the lower edges. Pin the ties to the back right side seam, then with the tie ends extending inwards, tack each side. Pin the front and back pieces to the side hem, right sides together, and sew, leaving 20cm at the top for the armhole and 3cm at the lower edge for a side slit. Press the seam allowance open, 3mm from the seamline, then topstitch the right side slit to secure the seam allowance on the inside. Sew a button at the back opening. 22
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sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill:
CLIPPING THE CURVES
sew
free pattern download
When clipping fabric, make snips in the seam allowance up to, but not through, the stitching. This allows the fabric to open around curves and lay flat. Start by trimming the corners to get a point, then cut towards the neckline centre. If there’s any pulling at the centre point, use small scissors to clip one thread at a time – this will ensure it stays flat.
sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew
SHOPPER ************************
SPLASH OF COLOUR Create a bolder piece with a pima cotton lawn in aqua watercolours, ideal for dressmaking. £12.90 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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Easy, pattern-free
STELLA SKIRT
There’s nothing quite like donning a flared skirt to bring out your inner diva, and best of all, there’s no pattern needed to make this one! Be the centre of attention during your evening festivities, or embody the epitome of office chic with this statement gathered skirt by Amanda Walker. The cotton fabric we’ve used has a printed pattern running along the length of it, which thins as it progresses across the width. Get started
• Fabric, 2m • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Hook and bar fastening
Cutting guide
Main skirt: measure your waist to determine fabric length. The ratio for the gathering is 3:1, so a 66cm waist x 3 = 1.98m. Add 3cm for the hem and 1.5cm for the waistline seam allowance. Waistband strip: add 2.5cm to waist measurement, 2cm for the overlap and 1.5cm seam allowance at each end. Cut a fabric strip, 16cm wide, to this measurement, plus another in fusible interfacing. 1.5cm seam allowances are used throughout
sew a CIRCLE SKIRT
1
Neaten the two short edges of the main skirt for the back seam. Adjust your sewing machine to a large gathering stitch and sew two rows, 5mm apart, along the top edge of the skirt. Pull up the threads to gather, ensuring it measures the same as the waistband, minus 5cm.
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2
Match the edges of the back seam, pin the neatened edges and stitch from the base of the skirt, leaving a gap at the top. Sew a concealed zip into the gap at the top of the seam. Fold and press the allowance along the two sides of the opening.
3
Open the seam allowance and, with right sides facing, pin the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the allowance, then sew the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and close. Fuse interfacing to the waistband, and neaten one of the long edges of the band.
4
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right sides facing, then stitch the hook extension and the other end of the waistband ends. Clip the bulk from the corners and turn the ends back to the right side. Pin the prepared band to the top edge of the skirt, right sides facing, leaving the hook extension area protruding from the back top side seam.
5
Stitch the waistband on the right side of the skirt and pin the back neatened edge inside the skirt, sandwiching the raw edges inside. Seal by stitching in the ditch. Fold and press a 3cm hem, then machine or hand-sew. Add the hook and bar fastening to finish.
sew DRESSMAKING
“A wide waistband is used to give a fifties feel to the skirt. However, you could cut a much narrower strip for a less noticeable waistband” Amanda Walker, Sew designer
sew
SHOPPER
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CABBAGE ROSE This fabulous floral border fabric by Michael Miller is the perfect thickness to give your project a wonderfully draped structure. £16 per metre, thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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Sewing with Tilly
S
MASTER THE ART OF THE BALANCED DART
ewing darts that come out flat is a dressmaker’s dream come true! This nifty technique ‘balances’ out the layers of fabric to help you get a smooth finish on your darts, even on the thickest of fabrics. It works by stitching a folded swatch of fabric to one side of your dart and pressing it in the opposite direction.
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Cut a rectangle of fabric slightly longer and wider than the dart you’re working with. If you’re making a garment with a lot of darts, use this technique for the most noticeable ones only, such as the bust and waist.
Press the dart in one direction and the extra fabric in the other. Turn over and press from the right side. A top tip is to use a press cloth and a rolled towel, or tailor’s ham, to get a smooth, shine-free finish.
Fold the dart in half, right sides facing, and pin the dart legs together. Slip half of the rectangle under, and pin all the layers. Stitch the legs together, including the additional rectangle of fabric.
Et voila! You can use this technique on any fitted garment made from medium to heavy-weight materials, such as dresses, jackets and trousers. Once you’ve mastered it, it’ll transform your silhouette.
Press the layers of fabric flat and the rectangle away from the stitching line. Trim away excess fabric following the folded edge of the dart – be careful not to cut through the dart itself.
Another way of ‘balancing’ the dart is to cut it in half and press open, but that’s messy and can split open. By stitching the same layers of fabric to the dart and pressing in the opposite direction, the thickness is counter-balanced’.
For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 26
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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.
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You’ll go dotty for our
VALENTINA DRESS
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew a RETRO DRESS Get started
• Spotty fabric, 4.3m (150cm) • Concealed zip, 56cm
Sizes Custom
Cutting guide
Front bodice: cut two on fold, one for lining Back bodice: cut two pairs, one for lining Skirt: cut three on fold (one for centre front, one each for side panels); cut one pair for back, with a seam through centre back for zip 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
1
Stitch the darts into the front and back bodice pieces, sewing from base to point, then press towards the centre front and back. Divide this into two bodices, then match, pin and sew the shoulder seams, right sides facing. Press the seam allowances open.
2
Lay one of the bodices out flat, right sides uppermost. Position the other on top with the right sides facing down. Match the necklines, pin and stitch around the neckline, and clip the
The pretty polka dot has been dressing up trends ever since the days of Bettie Page and Chili Williams. Its timeless appeal is given a fresh slice of fifties flair with this dreamy dress project by Amanda Walker. Consisting of a fitted bodice and multiple skirt pieces for added swish, this frock is perfect for crisp cottons and lightweight linens, and will hug you in all the right places while guaranteeing you a big entrance when you give ’em a twirl.
seam allowances. Repeat for the armholes, pinning, sewing and clipping the seam allowance.
3
Turn the bodice to the right side, threading the back through the shoulders. Tease out the seam allowance round the neckline and armholes, then press. Match the side seams, pin and sew from base to underarm, ensuring the armhole seams are open, and press. Fold the lining inside the bodice.
4
Join the skirt pieces, right sides facing, and sew. Neaten with overlocking or zig zag stitching. Using your machine’s largest stitch, make two rows within the seam allowance across the top of the skirt. Pull up the thread to fit the bodice waistline and distribute the gathers evenly. Pin to the outer part and stitch.
5
Match, pin and sew the two neatened edges at the back of the skirt, leaving a gap at the top of the seam for the zip. Measure down 53cm from the top neckline of the bodice into the back of the skirt, then stitch the remainder of the seam together.
6
Sew the zip into the back opening using a regular or concealed zipper foot. 28
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sew DRESSMAKING Fold and press the seam allowance along the sides of the back opening, then open out. With right sides facing, position the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance, and pin in place.
7
With a concealed zipper foot, place the zip teeth into the groove; as you sew, the foot uncurls the teeth and the stitching is placed alongside the teeth. With a normal foot, uncurl the teeth with your fingertips. Leave 3cm of the zip base unsewn.
Back-stitch and sew the other side of the zip. Thread the zip pull to the right side at the top of the centre back seam, and pull up.
8
Neaten the base of the skirt with overlocking or zig zagging. Fold and press up a 1cm hem and machine sew. Hand slip-stitch the lining bodice, folding in the seam allowance along the edge of the zip and across the waistline. Make sure all raw edges are covered by the lining. Pin and hand-sew to finish.
TOP TIP!
If you choose a cotton print, like our spotty number, you’ll need to purchase additional fabric to ensure accurate pattern matching
sew
SHOPPER
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SPOT ON This lightweight cotton from Makower is just the ticket for a fun, yet breathable sun dress. ÂŁ11 per metre, makoweruk.com ************************ thank you for shopping!
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sewing
SoS Stretch your skillset with our experts’ advice
Q
WHEN I’M SEWING A HEM, HOW CAN I ENSURE MY KNIT FABRIC DOESN’T BECOME DISTORTED?
Lucy Etches
Mark says I have a few nifty tricks to prevent your hems becoming misshapen but, first things first, it’s important to stretch the fabric before you buy it. I know it sounds basic, but it’s a fantastic way to determine the quality. Another tip is to feed the fabric slowly and evenly through your machine, without letting it hang off the sewing table – a walking foot will help prevent your hem stretching as you sew. Also, press, never iron the fabric. Moving an iron along the material may distort it, definitely resulting in stretched hems! Have you heard of knit stay tape? It’s also known as fusible interfacing and is magnificent for adding stability to fabric. You could even use spray starch or a piece of paper placed between the fabric and walking foot. Finally, use a coverstitch or a double needle for a professional finish and less wavy hems. It’s always best to test your technique on scraps first, and I’m confident using at least one of these techniques will stop your hem stretching.
Dotty Ladybird cord skirt, £25, whitestuff.com
Q Keep cool in a Colourful Zig Zag Maxi Dress, £34.00 apricotonline. co.uk
DOUBLE, INTERLOCK, PONTE ROMA... THERE’S SO MANY KNIT TYPES TO CHOOSE FROM! WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EACH ONE? Belinda Spring
Pat says
Jersey is probably the most common type – it’s a single knit, very soft and fluid, and works well for a whole variety of garments, especially t-shirts. Its breathability and transparency depend entirely on its weight, which most stores will clearly list. Double interlock is another widely used type, too. Interlock tends to be slightly thicker than jersey, because it is double-knit and both sides of the fabric are smooth, much like the right side of jersey fabric. Ponte di Roma is a slightly, thicker, sturdier material – also a double knit – that usually has a side-to-side texture to it. It can vary quite a bit in how stretchy it is, and a low-quality length can almost feel like old-school polyester so be sure to invest wisely!
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See Art Gallery Fabrics’ full range of knits at artgalleryfabrics.com
here to
help
PAT BRAVO
MARK CREASEY
artgalleryfabrics.com
girlcharlee.co.uk
World-renowned designer for Art Gallery Fabrics, Pat is a knit aficionado well-known for embracing colour and pattern
Mark is the director at Girl Charlee Fabrics: a one-stop shop for sourcing soft and unique knit fabrics. Pay a visit to
Q
I’VE TREATED MYSELF TO A SELECTION OF KNIT FABRICS – BUT I DON’T KNOW WHAT PATTERNS TO GO FOR! WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? Michelle Dood
Lisa says
I can’t get enough of knit fabrics! They’re versatile, quick to sew and, when you get to grips with them, they open up a whole world of sewing possibilities. Ponte di Roma is one of my favourites as it’s excellent for beginners. It’s perfect for dresses, skirts and snuggly jumpers being a good ‘bottom weight’, and, as long as you use strong interfacing on the waistband, it would make a lovely Sew Over It’s Tulip Skirt. A completely different knit fabric I love is lightweight viscose jersey – the ultimate bounce-back material. Stitch a cute fitted top using a fine stretch needle and a walking foot to make sewing viscose jersey easier. Knit fabric creations like Sew Over It’s Alice Top are staples in my wardrobe!
LISA COMFORT
Pattern designer and jersey advocate, Lisa opened her shop, Sew Over It in 2011 with one goal: to teach as many people as possible how to sew!
top 4
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KNIT FABRICS
Knit fabric is created differently to woven fabric – its looping thread structure results in a flexible and stretchy nature. There’s thin jersey to make t-shirts, rayon knits for wrap dresses and tricot knit for your swimsuits to mention just a few. Why not get started with these top-notch picks from Girl Charlee?
Breath of fresh air
Turquoise dot lace cotton, £8.95 per metre
Understated Muted red floral on French terry, £10.96 per metre
Wonderfully intricate
tip! Never hurry the fabric selection process. Visit several stores, ask for swatches and consider if the knit fabric is an appropriate weight for your garment. Make Lisa’s Alice Top in the online class: Intro to Sewing with Knit Fabrics, £45, sewoverit.co.uk
Floral vines on sky jersey, £10.96 per metre
Bold in blue Denim stripe on French terry, £10.96 per metre ALL KNIT FABRICS ARE FROM GIRL CHARLEE – VISIT GIRLCHARLEE.CO.UK TO PURCHASE.
Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it! 31
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Get the frill of a lifetime with our
VIOLET TOP
sew a
COLD SHOULDER TOP
Effortlessly transition from day to night with our gorgeous off-theshoulder staple. Featuring an elasticated waist and gathered details in an airy viscose, the Violet top is wonderfully flattering and perfect for dressmaking frill-seekers. We hereby crown this Amanda Walker garment your new summer IT piece!
Get started
• Fabric, 2m (150cm wide) • Concealed zip, 22cm • Elastic, 5mm wide
Cutting guide
Front: cut one Back: cut one Frill: cut two Neck binding: cut a bias strip, 5cm x 90cm Armhole binding: cut a bias strip, 5cm x 45cm Shoulder strap: cut a strip, 5cm x 45cm 1.5cm seam allowances are used throughout except for the neckline where 1cm is used.
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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Stitch the darts into the front piece from the sides to the points, then press upwards towards the shoulder. Neaten the front shoulder seam edge and the adjacent back shoulder seam, then stitch together and press open.
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Make bias binding from the neckline strip using a binding maker, then press in 1cm on either side. Open one side and position it around the armhole. Pin in place, then stitch along the fold line pressed into the bias strip.
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Fold the strip onto the wrong side of the top, and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the armhole raw edge inside the bias binding. Neaten the front and back side seams, then match together. Sew shut the left side
seam and the right side up to the zip notch, then press open.
4
Stitch the two frills together, matching the straight edges. Neaten the seam allowances and the frill outer edge, then press 3mm upwards and stitch in place. Set your machine stitch length to five and make two rows of stitching within the 1cm seam allowance. Pull the threads until the frill fits the neckline, then evenly distribute the gathers. Pin one seam to the shoulder seam and the other to the underarm side seam, then sew in place.
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Repeat step 2 to create a bias strip, then attach around the neckline, sandwiching the frill edges inside the binding. Make sure the edges joined together are under the shoulder on the left side.
6
Stitch the concealed zip into the side opening using a regular or concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the opening two sides. Open out the seam allowance and, with right sides facing, place the zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line within the seam allowance and pin in place.
7
If you’re using a concealed zipper foot, place the zip teeth into the groove and, as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and stitch alongside them. If you’re not, manually uncurl the teeth, leaving 2.5cm at the end of the zip 32
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sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill: QUICK ZIP TIP
A well-executed zip gives a professional look. Proper marking, positioning and tacking will help you to achieve this. Our top tip is to buy a zip 5cm longer than required. Placing the top of a zipper above its opening takes the tab out of the line of stitching, so sewing can continue easily. Once the zipper is fixed, the extra portion can then be removed.
base, then backstitch. Sew the other side to secure, then thread the zip through to the right side and pull to close.
8
Fold and press 1cm, then another 1cm around the top base. Edgestitch in place, leaving a small area open. Thread elastic long enough to sit comfortably around your hips through the gap. Stitch the two ends of the elastic together, and sew the gap closed.
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Fold the shoulder strap in half lengthwise and stitch together. Turn the piece to the right side through one of the open ends and press flat. Try the top on and pin the strap over your bra strap, then adjust the length to suit you. Remove the top, and hand or machine stitch the strap in place.
sew
SHOPPER ************************
DRESSMAKER’S DREAM Floaty viscose challis is ideal for summer makes as it’s both lightweight and breathable, plus we can’t resist this pretty floral print! £7.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping! 33
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H
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S T FR O M I N
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NDIE pattern T
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SIZ ES
Jenny Overalls by Closet Case Patterns
22 6-
Difficulty: Inspired by vintage work-wear, these overalls are the next big thing for festivals or a summer escape. Make it in denim and forget about the hemming!
A distressed finish will keep the look really fun and the fraying will look even better with repeated wear. Partner with a skinny scarf that can be worn as a belt, bracelet or headband. £13.40, closetcasepatterns.co.uk
SI Z E SX O XL ST
Mayberry Frock by Jennifer Lauren
River Dress
Paper
Difficulty:
by Megan Nielsen
The Mayberry’s gently curved neckline leads to a distinctive off-centre button placket, which is sure to stand out in your line-up of summery staples. Make this lady-like style from an airy cotton-blend and go all out on those fancy buttons. Infuse JW Anderson styling by wearing with white leather mules.
Paper
Difficulty: This dress is the foundation of a well-edited wardrobe – you can rely on it day or night, and it looks great all-year round with ankle boots, heels or sandals. For the summer months, sew this pattern in a cooling linen or comfy knit, then pair it with raffia blocked heel sandals and a big, brimmed hat. £11.40 / £13.70, megannielsen.com
£9.70, jenniferlaurenhandmade.store
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sew DRESSMAKING
Notes from Rachel Bailen top
SIZES
0
by Pauline Alice
62
Difficulty: Taking inspiration from classic lingerie, this top is a great wardrobe must-have, which perfectly embodies the less-is-more approach to style. As it’s cut on the bias, the fabric will flow around the body without being clingy. Make it in salmon pink silk and tuck into wide-leg textured trousers and flat pumps. FREE, paulinealicepatterns.com
“I love how playful JW Anderson is with classic styles, infused with cultural references”
SIZE S
TRIED & TESTED by Rachel
22 4-
Astrid Wrap Trousers
When I think about springsummer daywear, JW Anderson instantly leaps to my mind. His innovative and forward thinking style has made him a popular choice for collaborations with Topshop, Uniqlo and Converse just to name a few. You will notice that his passion for creation goes beyond fashion. His boyishness style is seen through his art, photography and even pottery collaborations. This freedom of expression gives his style a unique spin where he can exercise his creativity in different medias. He makes great clothes that can be worn away from the fashion circuit. I love how playful he is with classic styles, infused with cultural references. Get inspired by adding logos to your garments, using striped fabrics, infusing different textures and dressing for the comfort factor.
Rachel Pinheiro houseofpinheiro.com
by Named Difficulty:
This high-rise pair is cut from a bluish-grey cupro and features a fabric strap tie belt. I made mine just below calf-length as a chic alternative to shorts or culottes, but the pattern comes with added length for high heels. It can be easily dressed up for a formal meeting or for a casual lunch with friends, and I find the wide-leg shape is perfectly balanced out by the nipped-in waist. £11.40 / £16.70, namedclothing.com
Follow Rachel on Instagram @houseofpinheiro 35
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Paper
Stitch the Look
POPPIN’ POPLIN
The trick to staying cool this summer is all in the fabric you wear. Poplin is made from a mixture of cotton, silk, rayon, wool and polyester meaning it’s available in many different weights. Plus, it’s affordable and extremely comfortable to wear! This fabric is ideal for making garments to wear in hot weather as the natural fibre allows air to circulate, absorb moisture and dry quickly. It’s like a built-in air conditioner for your body! Widely worn and loved, poplin truly is the ultimate summer fabric.
WHY NOT TRY?
1
2
Jumpsuit, £29, jdwilliams. co.uk
3
“Poplin is the perfect fabric for summer dresses because it comes in such amazing prints. At Crafty Sew & So, we’re planning on sewing 50s style frocks in a bold print for upcoming weddings!”
4 1 Tropicana Toucans, £10 per metre 2 Party Time, £8 per metre 3 Sevenberry Bloom Garden, £12 per metre 4 Large Red Spot, £7 per metre
Freya Gilbert, Crafty Sew & So
All of the featured fabrics are available from craftysewandso.com
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© AV Nov 1st 1953 p.107 Condé Nast Archive
Shaping Secrets
The best clothes work in harmony with your figure – but you can give nature a helping hand with these figure-defining tricks Words by Janey Goulding
Designer Balenciaga once proclaimed that a dress has to follow the shape of a woman’s body – the woman should not follow the dress. As we strive for creations that flatter every curve, we may convince ourselves it’s OK squeezing into slightly-too-tightly tops and trews, tugging on straining zips to capture lightning in a bottle by forcing our bodies into shapes that aren’t our own. But what if you could complement your natural lines whilst also elevating your best assets? 37
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Although we wouldn’t encourage any woman to embrace anything other than what she feels truly comfortable and confident wearing, there are some quite brilliant dressmaking tricks you can try to enhance your best features – whether that’s creating a more shapely curve with a seam, or experimenting with directional line and colour. So shape up, ladies, as we reveal how you can get your best fit yet and make even more of your silhouette.
Body Talk
Work in harmony with your natural shape
HOURGLASS APPLE Choose soft, fluid styles: Move attention away from wrap-overs, bias cuts and the waist by accentuating flowing fabrics. Maintain legs: long tunics, wrap balance between bust and skirts and side-fastening hip with a fitted straight trousers are ideal. waistband. Avoid angular Steer clear of short jackets shapes and trousers that and crop tops, and watch narrow at the ankle. pocket placement.
RECTANGLE Use long, straight layers to divert attention from the waist or bust. Add width to the shoulders with gathered sleeves. Pencil, tulip, A-line and asymmetric skirts work especially well.
SHAPE SHIFTING
INVERTED TRIANGLE Emphasise the lower half with patterned styles. Halterneck and wrap styles can detract from shoulder width. Avoid fussy details in the top line.
shirt or a tunic with a skirt or trousers. Alternatively, break up your outfit with detail.” Petite women can create the illusion of height by keeping their silhouette sleek; by defining shape, they appear slimmer. Pear shapes are advised to emphasise the upper body with detail, while wearing plain trousers or skirts. For a large bust, choose V-shapes and wrap designs. Conversely, those with a small chest can add volume to the bust area with a ruched top or a jacket with lapels.
For most of us, the idea of sculpting brings to mind tightly laced corsets. As costume historian Lucy Adlington observes, fashion once used to dictate a narrow waist at any cost. “Left to their own devices, women’s bodies would curve, bulge and dimple – all gloriously natural,” she says. Idealised notions of shape invariably involved bustle cages and crinoline hoops. But, as Lucy points out, excessive shaping is hardly practical for the modern woman who needs to be active as well as decorative. “A bit of cinching and support is fine, but authentic confidence in your own figure is far more appealing,” says Lucy. Lingerie designer Pamela Powell agrees that comfort is key with sculpting. “Where an hourglass once relied on rigid girdles, today’s shaping techniques follow the contours of the body.” The modern fashion corset sculpts in a more sympathetic way. But as she indicates, it is not a quick fix for perceived figure imbalances, nor is it necessary to use one to make big changes. We have plenty of options, as dressmaking specialist Lorna Knight points out: “The invention of Lycra means we can sculpt our figures with less discomfort!” That’s not all: as dressmakers, we have the power to control perceptions of shape, both structurally using technique and subliminally with visual suggestion.
THROWING SHADE
Colour-blocking with panels can dramatically manipulate our perceptions of shape. By piecing contrasting panel sections, usually at the side seams, the waist and hips will appear slimmer. As Pamela notes, “Used correctly, this is one of the simplest ways to deceive the eye.” It’s all in the placement, adds Tilly Walnes. A combination of darker colours at the side and light in the centre instantly conjures up a slimmer silhouette; a classic decoy. “If you’re mixing prints and solids, try placing the busy print in the central panels to draw the eye inwards,” advises Tilly. Simple rules of colour are sure to give your silhouette a boost when playing with blocks, so use complementary tones or prints. “Pick two or three shades on opposite sides of the colour wheel,” suggests Tilly. “Alternatively, try colours that are next to each other on the wheel, or two tones of the same colour, such as a light turquoise with a darker teal for subtle colour blocking.” She also recommends black and cream with one bright colour. When mixing prints with solid tones, pick one of the colours in the print to use in the others, to accentuate the slimming potential.
© By Hand London
BALANCING ACT
Lucy highlights the problem of ideals clouding our judgement: “There is something appealing about the hourglass. But it’s just one shape out of many.” She adds that contouring is beneficial for all, while dress construction can be deployed to flatter any individual form. One key tactic is the use of visual decoys to pull the eye towards our best features. Often, this involves design elements such as exaggerated sleeves or skirt accents. “Design elements such as peplums are a great way to draw the eye to a favoured feature and even enhance it,” says Lorna. “For pear shapes, the trick is to use detailed necklines; for tall figures, a peplum adds shape and minimises height.” As Lorna continues, many effective visual decoys are simple. Tall women, for instance, will find layers can break up the illusion of height. “Use different lengths, like a jacket over a longer
PEAR Bring attention up and away from hips and thighs using pockets, collars and embroidery. Create the illusion of width in the top line with full or decorative capped sleeves and horizontal stripes.
TECHNICAL MERIT
Dior’s New Look, with its sweeping lines, demonstrates what is possible with thoughtful sculpting, using well positioned darts and seams. Designer Jennifer Lauren praises the shaping potential of the open-ended dart as a technique that can transform appearance. Princess seams are a variation of darts, creating graceful vertical lines that elongate the body while, as Pamela indicates, gentle curves make the body appear more feminine. “They’re great 38
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Signature Sculpting
© 1 BV Apr 15th 1954 p.154 Henry Clarke
Classic shaping by designer Balenciaga
for creating a pronounced silhouette,” says Jennifer. “Pinch out the excess under the bust to accentuate shape and make the waist appear more defined.” She also recommends finishing bust darts short of the apex to prevent a pointy bodice. Elsewhere, Madeleine Vionnet’s designs show what is possible with the bias cut. Dressmaker Rachel Pinheiro insists these flattering drapes are easy to recreate. “You just need a sense of the direction of the weave,” says Rachel. “Pick patterns designed to work with material cut on the bias. Bear in mind that stripes will be cut diagonally, and stick with soft textures such as rayon and silk.” When fabric is cut on the bias, it slopes across the direction of the weave, so the warp and weft fall diagonally. Check the front and back are perpendicular to prevent twist.
Master of line and proportion, Spanish designer Balenciaga created shapes that accentuated the female figure while respecting the basics. Underpinning curves with striking bows, puff skirts and hip sashes, his silhouettes denoted elegance whilst celebrating diversity in women. From pencils and baby dolls to capes crafted with a single seam, sculptural leanings played with fluidity of form. As the wearer moved, air currents would cleverly lift layers. Women wearing his famed gowns were likened to swans gliding across a pond, with flamenco-style hems raised in the front and swooping down behind. Collars were famously shrugged back to heighten this swan-like ideal, and sleeves pinched above the wrist to elongate frame. Balenciaga anticipated some of the century’s most enduring silhouettes, but he desired accessibility and his models reflected the different body types of his clients, proving that his figure-shaping could be enjoyed by all. Discover more by reading Vogue On: Cristobal Balenciaga, Susan Irvine (£15, Quadrille)
•
SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME
Most of all, Lucy advises, a bold silhouette should be empowering rather than overwhelming. Choose styles that flatter through good positioning of seams, darts and drapery, and don’t be afraid to experiment. “There are lots of ways to enhance what you’ve got, whether it’s the cut of necklines or waistlines, the use of blocks or lines, or construction with details such as pleats and peplums. Keep trying different things until you can objectively see what works the best.” Look for visual balance and proportion, adds Pamela. Accentuate your assets by always wearing a good bra. And remember, you’re making your clothes to work for you – not the other way around.
On The Right Lines
Add balance with directional blocks and stripes VERTICALS suggest height by drawing the eye down. Single lines are most effective in suggesting a slender figure. More than one makes eyes move left to right; two close together make you seem thinner than two spaced apart. HORIZONTALS divide height, especially when more than one line is used. Relaxing
the line into a gentle curve or diagonal is especially flattering for pear shapes, long waists and flat chests. DIAGONALS generally draw the eyes from high to low, and a longer diagonal will create the illusion of height. Where two lines converge, the point will make that part of your body look smaller.
V I S I T J OYO F C LOT H E S . CO M FO R M O R E S H A P E T I P S 39
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Pattern Picks
Practise visual trickery with clever shaping choices PLAY WITH LINES New Look 6281’s cascading layers let you play with colour-block tiering to enhance height and bust by tinting light to dark. £6.95, 10-22 BLOCK IT OUT Create playful accents with Zadie’s striking diagonal seams, concealing practical in-seam pockets. Also includes a flattering empire waist. £12.50, 6-20 SCULPT YOUR STYLE This easy-to-wear 1940s A-line silhouette pattern uses double openended darts to shape the waist and bust for a flattering fit. £8, 6-24
sew LEARN
Lauren Guthrie’s
G
TOP TOOLS for pro results
etting a neat, professional finish on my handmade garments is one of the things I love the most about making my own clothes. Having a great quality iron and ironing board is really important and pressing well is key, but here are some extra tools that can help give you that special touch.
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3
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1 POCKET TEMPLATES
These simple Prym templates will help you to press a consistently even edge when making pockets, ensuring impeccably clean lines. The best bit? Each one can be used repeatedly for multiple garments. £10.35
2 MAGNETIC SEAM GAUGE
This handy, magnetic Prym gauge can be positioned on the plate of your machine at the desired seam allowance line. It will give you a clearer visual aid to help line up the raw edges and get that allowance spot on! £3.95
3 CORNER EDGE SHAPER Small enough to stow away in your portable sewing kit, this useful plastic Prym tool will help you to shape corners and curves, and ensure your turned edges, especially collars, look perfectly crisp and neat. £3.25
4 SCISSORS SHARPENER
Keeping your fabric scissors in tip-top condition will help ensure your cutting is as accurate as it can be. This Fiskars scissor sharpener will give a bit of TLC to your trusty blades so they’re ready to snip through your next project. £16
ALL ITEMS CAN BE PURCHASED AT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK 40
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5 EXPANDING SEWING GAUGE I love this Simflex tool for helping to evenly mark out buttonholes when creating blouses and shirts. Not only is it really easy to use, it ensures your buttons will all be the same distance apart and look very professional. £22
YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Topstitching 3 Setting in sleeves 3 Adding a neckband 3 Making pockets
sew DRESSMAKING
sew masterclass
Create a simple cover-up with our
Project exclusive to
SUKI KIMONO
sew!
This loose-fitting, boxy number is the perfect garment to wear on holiday, or as a light cover-up to keep off the chill. It is also simple to make, so you can focus on carefully sewing the various components to achieve a truly professional finish.
Get started
• Fabric, 1.4m (XS/S/M) 1.5m (L/XL)
Size
Finished length XS 62cm S 63cm M 64cm L 65cm XL 66cm
Cutting guide Back: cut one on the fold Front: cut two Front band: cut two on the fold Pocket: cut two Sleeve: cut two on the fold 1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
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sew PALAZZO PANTS Sewing the front to the back
Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING l Visit sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto your fabric. l Before cutting out, fold your fabric in half with the selvedges together. Cut out the back with the centre-back lined up to the fold, and the front band lined up to the fold twice. Cut out one front on the folded fabric so you have two pieces. l Fold the fabric with the selvedges together at the centre, then mark and cut out the sleeve against the folds either side. l Finish the raw edges either with an overlocker, or with a zigzag stitch. l For the topstitching, sew a line of straight stitching approximately 3mm from the seamline on the right side of the fabric. l A linen viscose mix was used for this kimono, but you could also choose a viscose fabric or any other type that drapes well.
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Pin the front and back at the shoulders, right sides together. Finish the raw edges, then press the seam to the back. Topstitch the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve head to the front and back at the armhole edge, right sides together.
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Finish the raw edges and press the seam towards the sleeve. Repeat for the other side. Topstitch on the right sides. Sew the front and back at the sides below the armhole and sleeve edge, right sides together.
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Carefully finish the raw edges, then press. Nick the seam allowance at the underarm section on each side, then once finished, make a 4cm hem at the lower edge of the front and back.
Stitching the front band
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Sew the front band strips together at one short side, right sides together, then press the seam open. Fold over and press a 1cm hem all along one long side of the band.
Press in half widthwise, right sides together and raw edges matching, opening out the 1cm fold a little at each end. Pin, then stitch across in line with the body front lower edge.
Starting at the centre-back, tack the unfolded long side of the strip to the back neck and centre front edge each side, right sides together, ensuring 2cm extends beyond the front lower edge.
Carefully trim the seam allowance to 5mm, then turn to the right side, pushing out the corners gently. Once finished, fold the band to the wrong side.
Stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around, then remove the tacking stitches. Press the band away from the body, then topstitch on the right side. Fold back the far ends of the strip.
Press the band to encase the raw edges and align the folded edge with the stitching. Pin, then hand sew all around with small slip stitches. Finally, press the band all around.
Hemming and adding pockets
When topstitching the pocket corners sew a small triangle at those points for extra security
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Fold over and press 1cm, then another 4cm at the raw edge of each sleeve to match the lower hem. Pin, then sew close to the edge.
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Pin into position as shown Finish the raw edges around on the template online at three sides of both pockets, then sewmag.co.uk. Tack, then create a double fold 1cm hem on machine topstitch along the three the unfinished short side. Fold and sides close to the edge. press 1cm around the finished sides.
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sew DRESSMAKING
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew
SHOPPER ***********************************
MIX IT UP Fiona used a linen and viscose blend to create this fiesta-worthy piece. Why not join in the fun and chose a vibrant floral print? From ÂŁ10.75 per metre, dittofabrics.co.uk ************************************ thank you for shopping!
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Ray Stitch, London Visit raystitch.co.uk Make a Children’s Apron
24
TUE
AUG
5
SUN
Keep little ones busy over the summer holidays with this beginner apron class, designed for children aged eight years and over. If they’ve never used a sewing machine, or would like a helping hand, then this is the ideal class! By the end of this three-hour session, they will have cut and made an apron in their size from Ray Stitch fabric, ready to wear home! Price: £60
Create the Moneta Dress
You’ll walk away from this fabulous workshop with the Moneta frock, designed by Colette. Suitable for confident machine sewers, it has a gently curved neckline, fitted bodice, and a shirred skirt with practical in-seam pockets. This comfortable dress is one that you’ll find yourself making over and over again! Price: £105
&learn
Stitch
JULY
It’s time to pep up your skillset with these sewing sessions
The Village Haberdashery, London Visit thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk OCT
6
Isosceles Triangle Masterclass
Designed for intermediate and advanced quilters, this class will walk you through the tricky bits of isosceles triangle patchwork. It covers how to cut triangles with a ruler, deal with bias seams, and sew precise and sharp points, while working on a baby or lap-size pyramid quilt top. You’ll be able to keep your isosceles triangle ruler and leave with the confidence to complete your quilt top at home! Price: £95
SAT
SEP
Add a tropical touch to your home décor with a punchy SAT pineapple quilt. The class, led by experienced tutor Judith Dahmen, will teach you how to make a foundation pineapple quilt block. You’ll learn how to follow complex foundation paper piecing patterns and create sharply pieced blocks that can be transformed into a quilt to finish at home! Price: £85
8
AUG
Pineapple Quilt
Shirt Making Workshop
Whip up a workwear staple in this three-part shirt making workshop. The class uses the MON Melilot shirt pattern by Deer and Doe, a casual drop sleeve design that comes with several different style options, including a mandarin collar and short sleeves. You’ll start by cutting and preparing your fabric, before focusing on getting a polished, professional finish. Price: £160
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sew PROMOTION
, various locations
OCT
Visit janome.co.uk
The thread is your paint, the machine your brushes! Using TUE free machine embroidery, tutor Dionne Swift will help you discover techniques, such as creating texture and colour mixing, to create stunning compositions in stitch. Over two days, intermediate sewers will create reference samples, as well as a finished piece. Price: £70
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Skirt in a Day
OCT
Painting with Thread
Fancy sashaying away in a staple skirt? This workshop, run by WED Celia Banks, will give you the opportunity to fit and make a classic straight skirt, with or without pockets, and a rear hemline vent. You’ll learn how to fit a paper pattern, then you can choose to make a toile or to go straight to your chosen fabric, with plenty of advice and tips offered along the way. Price: £70
3
OCT
24
Tucks, Textures and Pleats
Suitable for all skill levels, join Sandra Coleridge for an exciting two days exploring the embellishing machine. You’ll explore new techniques, such as free motion machine stitching, and learn how to make a variety of textures to create a unique piece of work. Price: £70
WED
JULY
The kimono jacket is perfect for summer layering and swish nights out! Choose a SAT lightweight cotton, such as lawn, or tame those slippery but beautiful draping fabrics by selecting a fabric such as crepe, viscose or satin. You’ll learn how to sew smooth seams and ripplefree hems and finish the raw edges of your jacket using self-made bias binding. Price: £57.50
Ministry of Craft, Manchester
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Visit ministryofcraft.co.uk SEP
8
SAT
Fit and Flare Dress The Fit and Flare is a sweet and wearable day dress, that can also be transformed into showstopping occasion wear. In this
class, you’ll learn how to use a pattern block, sew darts, insert sleeves, put in an invisible zip and finish hems perfectly. What’s more, you’ll get a professional finish while learning to use a Janome overlocker. Price: £87.50
Kimono Jacket
SEP
Stretch Batwing Top
Quick Robin, to the batwing-mobile! Become your own sewing superhero and overcome the fear of working SAT with that troublesome stretchy fabric. Experienced dressmaking tutor, Alison Leese, will fortify you with countless tips and tricks for working with knitted fabrics in order to construct an easy top without set-in sleeves. Progress to this brilliant workshop after attending Beginners’ Overlocking. Price: £47.50
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If you’re looking for an easy, smartlooking fastening for your handmade garment, then why not try a lapped zip? It is usually inserted into the seam of a skirt, with the zip sitting slightly to one side of the wider section of the seam and overlapping the smaller, so that the zip is completely covered when closed. All of the sewing is done on the inside of the garment, except for the topstitching, so it’s perfect for creating a seamless finish. It’s also really simple to master, and you don’t have to purchase an invisable zipper to get started.
Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL
LAPPED ZIP
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Starting Point
Mark the length of the zip on your fabric, above the bottom stopper. The top of the zip should line up with the top of the material.
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Easy Does It
3
Seamless Finish
Sew the seam up to this point, then press open. Turn to the right side and gently roll the righthand side of the pressed seam back by 3mm.
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As you sew, you’ll need to move the slider out of the way, and take out the pins too. You may find it easier to hand-tack first.
Pin and Tuck
Pin the rolled-back edge to the side of the zip coil to overlap. Using a zipper foot, stitch along this edge.
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Slow Stitch
Pin the second side to the remaining zip tape. Sew across the bottom of the zip and back alongside the coil to the top.
Et Voila
You have now completed your lapped zip! Once you have finished, only one line of stitching will be visible on the left-hand side.
For more great tips from Debbie, visit youtube.com/thimblelane 46
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! E N I g n i w H e s r C u o y A m r o f M Trans
r u o y e v o L
JUKI MO-1000
Perfect for seasoned overlocker users, the EASY AIR traditional threading THREADING system on this model has had a complete overhaul and now threads the lower and upper loopers automatically with a strong whoosh of air sent from an electric motor. The machine also comes with a bright LED light, plus a fabric waste collector to keep your desk tidy.
Available from £899
Invest in a high-quality machine!
JUKI HZL-DX3
Whatever the weight of your chosen fabric, the Juki HZL-DX3 is a great choice for dressmakers due to the industrial-level box feed, which permits high-quality stitches on all fabrics. Other features include a foot control with thread trimming function or auto reverse, 155 stitch patterns and three fonts in lower and upper case. Available from £899
WIDE SEWING SPACE
250+ STITCH PATTERNS
JUKI HZL-DX7
The Juki HZL-DX7 offers a wide range of features, such as a box feed function for all kinds of fabrics, industrial quality buttonholes, 287 sewing patterns, three fonts, a wide sewing space, and direct stitch pattern selection. New features include a straight stitch side plate that allows you to switch to a single needle hole, plus a float function to prevent uneven seams. Priced £1,299 48
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sew PROMOTION
BRAND-NEW RELEASE!
KEY FEATURES:
3 350+ stitch patterns, including four fonts 3 Automatic buttonhole with sensor 3 Industrial-level box feed mechanism 3 Six bright LED lights 3 Bobbin winder with independent motor Special offer price: £2,795 (RRP £2,995). Find your local Juki dealer at www.juki-uk.com, or phone 01206 574758 With the very latest Juki model HZL-NX7, stitchers will be treated to brand-new functions, such as a colour touch screen interface, which makes choosing specific patterns even easier, a wide sewing area, plus 351 different stitches to play with. The machine offers industrial-level box feed technology, which reliably feeds through all types of fabric, while creating perfectly straight stitching. There’s also a short tail cut to stop threads getting clogged, a micro-lifter to prevent uneven seams, and a compact accessory box.
SHOP of the
“The new Juki HZL-NX7 offers the very latest in machine technology that is guaranteed to take your sewing to the next level” WHAT’S ON OFFER?
Franklins
in Colchester is one of a chain of five successful sewing shops. Established in 1956, the business has expanded to offer a huge range of products including fabrics, haberdashery, patterns, books and kits. You’ll also find a great selection of sewing machines and overlockers from all the top brands such as Juki, which you are able to try out before you purchase. Franklins’ after sales service includes service and repair by trained mechanics plus a programme of in-store classes and courses, from machine embroidery and sewing, to dressmaking, patchwork, quilting, needlework and much more.
3 Authorised Juki dealers 3E xpert advice and tuition before purchase 3 S ewing machine and overlocker servicing 3 Wide range of sewing classes
MONTH
Visit Franklins, 13-15 St Botolph’s Street, Colchester, Essex, CO2 7DU. Alternatively, visit franklinsgroup.com or call 01206 563955.
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ÂŽ
THE NEXT
GENERATION
HZL-NX7
A step forward for sewing with the HZL-NX7. Wide sewing area, touch screen interface and a multitude of other functions. The HZL-NX7 is made for professionals who need a reliable, high quality machine. Equipped with new functions to bring sewing to the next level and into a new dimension!
To find your nearest dealer www.juki-uk.com | 01206 563955/574758
sew PROMOTION
The team’s top picks for August Kick back and relax this summer with a bundle of brand-new sewing treats. From playful indie patterns to a novelty pin cushion, there’s a little something here to tickle every stitcher’s fancy. Why not dive in and discover something delightful?
Wish Lis t
Plana y and Pl
Bee Stitchy
Grab your pen and start recording your stitchy projects today! This nifty journal includes space for 12 months of makes, so you can easily track your progress, plan ahead for the future and jot down notes as you’re creating. £14, paperchase.co.uk
We’re simply buzzing with excitement for CocoWawa Crafts’ newest pattern addition, Honeycomb. It offers beautiful, feminine designs to choose from, including a shirt with a gathered peplum and mandarin collar, plus a dress with practical in-seam pockets and a midi length that you can tailor to you. £10, cocowawacrafts.com
Fabric Faves
Bright jewel colours are perfect for adding a pop of colour to your creations this summer! Stock up your stash with Art Gallery Fabrics’ range of lightweight rayons, which includes these bold prints, Extempore Gala and Jungle Radiant. Visit artgalleryfabrics.com
Thr ead -tastic !
Calling all Tula Pink fans! It’s now possible to bring the designer’s iconic patterns to life with hand embroidery. Colouring with Thread features 17 projects, including whimsical animals and vibrant florals. Each one has been carefully rendered ready for needle and thread. £16.99, searchpress.com
Wo of , Wo of
Jumping for Joy
Keep cool this summer with the True Bias Yari Jumpsuit pattern. Available as a printable PDF, Yari provides four fabulous options, each with angled patch pockets set into princess seams, a flattering V-neckline and front button closure. You can also choose to add D-ring ties to help accentuate your waistline. £10.50, shop.truebias.com
Jolly up your stitching space with this fun Scotty dog pin cushion by Gisela Graham London. This teal-toned pup has plenty of space to keep your pins nearby, plus it’s sure to be a hit gift with creative animal lovers, too. £3.75, tch.net
Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 51
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GET LEATHER LOVELINESS WITH A
Sunglasses case Grab a slice of the sunshine without letting your sunglasses take the heat. Create this fabulous protective case whilst learning the basics of leather crafting, such as marking and punching stitch holes, sewing through tough fabric and creating a polished finish. If you’re a beginner, this is the perfect place to start.
Get started • Vegetable tanned leather, 21cm x 25cm (2mm thick) • Strip, 1cm x 55cm • Graph paper, 5mm
Make a sunglasses case
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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Mark the design on to the smooth side of the leather with a soft chalk pencil. Cut out the shape with a craft knife or sharp scissors, ensuring the curve is as smooth as possible.
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Lay the leather flat, right sides facing up, and run the stitch marker around the shape, keeping 2mm from the edge and avoiding the two small curves on either side. Pierce the marks with an awl to create stitch holes. With the awl, mark out four holes in the centre, then repeat in the middle of the leather strip. Sketch a decorative shape on the graph paper and lightly tape it to the front flap centre. Pierce through the paper into the leather with the awl at the line’s intersections. Use two colours of topstitching thread to sew through the holes in a crossstitch pattern. Neatly secure the threads on the inside. Sew a running stitch along the straight edge of the leather using a strong thread. When you reach the end, turn back and sew through the holes in the opposite direction to form a continuous line.
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Crease the case’s curved sides against the straight edges of the flap. Mark the next free holes in the edges of the flap, and sew from one free hole to the other in the same way as in step 5. Mark and create holes around the small curves, positioning the first hole 2mm from the straight edge. Fold the curved sides against the flap. Sew from the fold towards the front edge, pulling the thread taut and leaving a long thread end. When you reach the front, stitch through the holes several times: vertically and horizontally, to strengthen the join. Do not fasten off. Thread a needle on to the long thread left in step 7 and sew along the seam to complete the line of stitches. Secure at the join and tightly knot the two threads together on the inside of the case. Repeat for the other side. Position the leather strip over the holes on the case back then, using a double thickness of extra strong thread, sew through in a cross pattern. Trim the ends of the strip at an angle, wrap and knot the strap around the closed case.
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sew gifts
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew
SHOPPER
Stitching with Leather
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VEGETABLE TANNED LEAT Experiment with colour, and create an accessory to match your wardrobe. Available in a variety of colours, ÂŁ11.75 per A4 sheet, artisanleather.co.uk
Every stitch leaves a permanent hole in the leather, so be sure to test out your pattern on a sample first.
************************ thank you for shopping!
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introducing...
Maker Rewards! The more you spend, the more you earn!
Earn Reward Points for every £1 spent with every purchase!
H
ave you heard about our loyalty programme, Maker Rewards? All registered Create and Craft customers will earn Reward Points every time they spend which can be redeemed against future purchases. From the moment you shop with us, you can earn ten Reward Points for every £1 spent.
It doesn’t stop there! If you are already part of the Create and Craft Club or would like to join, you get access to even more Reward Points (12.5 for every £1 spent), plus you’re still entitled to your usual club benefits – 10% off every purchase, a quarterly magazine AND £10 worth of Reward Points added to your account.
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AS A CLUB MEMBER YOU WILL ALSO COLLECT STATUS CREDITS – EARN 1 STATUS CREDIT FOR EVERY £1 SPENT. COLLECT 1,000 STATUS CREDITS AND YOU’LL AUTOMATICALLY BE UPGRADED TO A DIAMOND CLUB MEMBER.
Renew early for more rewards! If you renew your Create and Craft Club membership before your expiry date, you will automatically receive £12 worth of Reward Points into your account which can be redeemed against any future purchases, valid for three months.
As a Diamond Club Member you are entitled to the very best of the rewards programme: l More Reward Points! Earn 15 points for every £1 spent l More exclusive projects and downloads! FREE weekly project and one monthly download exclusive to Diamond Club Members l More benefits! FREE pair of tickets to all Crafting Live events during your membership period To remain within the Diamond Club you need to earn at least 1,000 Status Credits within 12 months of your upgrade date and renew your club membership before it expires.
SHOP TODAY AND START EARNING REWARD POINTS NOW! 64 crafts-beautiful.com sewmag.co.uk VISIT CREATEANDCRAFT.COM/MAKER-REWARDS FOR MORE INFORMATION
CREATE AND CRAFT SPECIAL
LOOK!
£10
FAT QUARTER FABRIC OFFER
ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MR MEN CHARACTERS Calling all stitchers! Create and Craft is offering every single Sew reader the chance to get a six-pack of Mr Men and Little Miss fat quarters for just £10 (usually £12.99), including free postage and packaging. Visit createandcraft.com/sewmag to order your fat quarters pack or call 0330 0415683 and quote the code 446358.
FREE P&P!
Six prints to choose from
5 Great Reasons To Treat Yourself l Bring the fun factor to quilting,
appliqué and patchwork projects.
l Each fat quarter is 100% cotton,
making it soft and durable.
l Cut with steel dies, giving you even
more creative possibilities.
l The fabric is easy to care for; simply
hand wash and hang to dry.
l Perfect for little ones and big
kids too!
Visit createandcraft.com/sewmag to order your Fat Quarters Pack or call 0330 041 5683 and quote the code 446358. The offer is valid on orders placed with createandcraft between 00:01 BST on 28th June 2018 and 23:59 BST on 26th July 2018. This offer will expire on 26th July 2018 at 23:59. The offer is available to all Create and Craft customers. The offer can be purchased via the Create and Craft website www.createandcraft.com, on the mobile app, the IVR and by phone. Ideal Shopping Direct Limited reserves the right from time to time and at any time to cancel, discontinue, temporarily or permanently, or amend the promotion or these rules, with or without prior notice (including, without limitation, in the case of anticipated, suspected or actual fraud).
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LEARN SPRAT’S HEAD STITCH WITH
Susie Johns’ BABY SHOES
Also known as an arrowhead tack, Sprat’s Head stitch is an attractive embroidery technique with a braided appearance. In tailoring, it can be used to reinforce a garment at a strain point, such as the top of a pleat or the top corner of a pocket. For this project, it’s used for the triangular heads and tails of tiny goldfish on a pair of baby shoes, then combined with satin and split stitch.
Get started • Blue linen fabric, 30cm square • Orange cotton fabric, 30cm square • Cotton bias binding, 15mm x 2m • Embroidery thread, six-stranded: orange, tangerine, black, white • Erasable fabric marker • Embroidery hoop • Embroidery needle • Cord elastic, 1m
Size Fits 0-3 months
Embroider the fish motif
1
Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Trace the shoe pattern pieces on to linen: two uppers and two soles, but do not cut out yet. Transfer the fish motif on to the toe end of the uppers, positioning it within the 6mm seam allowance and reversing the motif for the left shoe. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, with the design centred. Thread an embroidery needle with two strands of orange thread, and fill in the heads and tails of the fish using Sprat’s Head stitch (see panel). Fill in the remaining areas of the fish in satin stitch, using tangerine for the bodies and orange for the fins. Outline the bubbles in split stitch using two strands of white thread, and embroider eyes in black using French knots. Remove the fabric from the hoop, then place face down on a folded towel and press lightly.
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We attached the binding using hand stitches, but you could use a machine if you prefer
Make the shoes
1
Cut out the linen shoe pieces and repeat for the lining. Stitch the back seam on all uppers and the linings. Press the seams flat. Pair each upper with its lining, wrong sides together, then tack the two layers together close to the edges.
2
Pair the soles with the linings and tack, then secure and stitch the sole to the upper on each shoe, with the seam allowance on the outside. Bind the front edge of the upper on each shoe, leaving the ends unstitched to form a casing. Thread cord elastic through the casings and stitch the ends of the elastic to the fabric of the shoe
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at each end. Cut two 45cm lengths of binding, then pin the centre of the binding to the centre back seam of the shoe. Bind the back edge of the shoe and, with the free lengths of binding on either side, fold in half lengthwise and stitch the long edges together to form ties. Use the remaining length to bind around the base of the shoes, beginning and ending at the centre back seam.
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Sprat’s Head Stitch
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sew
free template download
Mark a triangle on the fabric as a guide. Thread the needle, then bring up through the fabric at the bottom left-hand corner of the triangle. Take it to the apex and pick up a few threads, working from right to left.
sewmag.co.uk /templates
2
Pull up the thread to form a long straight stitch along the left-hand side of the triangle, then take the needle back down through the fabric at the bottom right-hand corner. Pull on the thread to form a long straight stitch on the right-hand side.
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All subsequent stitches will cross over the top ends of the first two sewn. Bring the needle out on the bottom line, just to the right of the first stitch, in to the fabric just below the top of the triangle on the right-hand side and up on the opposite side, close to the top.
“Cloth shoes are perfect for tiny babies. Make them in a coloured fabric that matches a favourite outfit� Susie Johns, Sew designer
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Take the needle down just to the left of the right-hand bottom corner, on the base line. Continue until the stitches meet at the centre of the baseline, then fasten off on the wrong side.
7love Proudly sponsored by
and
REASONS TO
Sew Saturday! Grab your diary and mark up 6th October 2018 as the stitchiest day of the year!
Sew Saturday is back and it’s better than ever before! If you haven’t heard, once a year local stores across the UK, devoted to selling fabrics, habby essentials, crafty treats and more, pull together to celebrate our ultimate favourite pastime: sewing! Whether you’re a regular visitor or a brand-new face, every participating shop will welcome you to get involved, and each store offers its own unique selection of treats. It’s a fantastic day out and a brilliant opportunity to meet like-minded people with a passion for sewing in your local area. Still not convinced? Here’s seven more reasons to whet your appetite...
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SUPPORT LOCAL BUSINESS
Here at Sew, we’re proud to support local craft shops! Although shopping online has never been easier, we believe there’s something extra special about popping along to you local bricks-and-mortar store to choose a treat or two. Plus, there’s staff on hand for advice, workshops in-store, and you can colour match your thread and feel the texture of your fabrics before investing.
Here’s just a selection of some of the fabulous shops that have signed up so far... KAREN DELAHUNTY H SEW & SEA H STITCH X STITCH H WEST END SEWING H TUDOR ROSE PATCHWORK H EVIE AND LOLA H PLUS, MANY MORE!
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SEW FABULOUS PROJECTS
This year we bring you not one, but two new Sew Saturday mascots: meet Spirit and Unity! Many stores will be holding ‘make and take’ classes on the day, so you can make your very own mini felt unicorn or a comfy cushion cover – perfect for brightening up your sewing room, and reminding you of this special day! 58
sewmag.co.uk
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GRAB A GOODIE BAG
Who doesn’t love a freebie? Many of our shops will be giving away bags of sewing treats, including products from one of our sponsors Flatter by Soak. They are available on a firstcome, first-served basis – so be sure to set your alarm nice and early! In addition, there’s also money-off deals and discounts to use on the day itself, plus contests to win bonus prizes, too.
SNAP A #SEWSELFIE
… Speaking of selfies, our favourite hashtag is back in action! Grab one of our props, strike a pose and post it on social media with the hashtag #SewSelfie to show your support. We’ll be retweeting and sharing your pictures throughout the day so keep an eye out to see if you’ve made it into our hall of fame!
MEET CELEB GUESTS
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VISIT ACROSS THE UK
We’ve been busy bees here at Sew, reaching out to shops across the country to get them to join in the fun this October. To find out if your local store is participating. click on to sewmag.co.uk/sew-saturday. You can also turn the page to find our Sew Near Me map, where you can find your local Janome stockists too.
“I’m fortunate enough to live a short walk from two independent fabric and haberdashery emporiums. I can guarantee that, if one of them doesn’t have what I’m looking for, the other one will. Their knowledge and advice is invaluable, prices are often better than buying online, and you can see exactly what colour, pattern size and fabric thickness you’re buying.” Corinne Bradd, Sew designer
Some of your favourite stitching celebrities will be heading to local stores across the UK, so be sure to keep a beady eye out on the day! You could even snap a #SnapSelfie together!
“Fabric and haberdashery shops in the UK are going from strength to strength but they still need our support! Every time we visit our local shop and make a purchase we are ensuring their survival and growth – and that means more choice, better service and greater support for the sewing enthusiasts of Britain.”
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Stuart Hillard, TV personality
GET FREE TEA AND CAKE
After a busy day of shopping, sewing and snapping selfies, you’ll be in need of a cuppa and a slice of something sweet. Many of our stores will be offering free hot drinks and cake to visitors on the day, so take a pew and enjoy elevenses on us!
Are you a sewing shop that hasn’t signed up to Sew Saturday yet? Email saturday@sewmag.co.uk, call 01206 505495 or 01206 505932 or visit sewmag.co.uk/sew-saturday 59
sewmag.co.uk
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
BEDFORDSHIRE
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CARDIFF
DORSET
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CORNWALL
EAST SUSSEX
www.evieandlola.co.uk
MACARON WORKSHOPS Join us at our Kitchen
Table for all kinds of creative inspiration
NEW SHOP OPENING Unit 1 St Cuthberts Arcade, Bedford, Bedfordshire, MK40 3JG Email: anwyn@evieandlola.co.uk evieandlola
BEDFORDSHIRE
The Sewing Studio 10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2DB
Opening hours: Tuesday: 10.00 - 18.30 Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: 10.00 - 17.30 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT
www.habbydays.co.uk
BRISTOL
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk www.thesewingstudio.co.uk
CORNWALL
Little Sew and Sew 11b Bexhill Road St. Leonards-on-Sea East Sussex TN38 0AH info@littlesewandsewsussex.co.uk 01424 423375 www.littlesewandsewsussex.com
EAST YORKSHIRE HORNSEA SEWING CENTRE
46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF
1 Biddicks Court, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 5PY
01726 75385
Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm
Patchwork, Quilting, Craft and Dressmaking fabrics and classes, sewing and knitting patterns, wool, haberdashery and Toyota and Pfaff Sewing Machines.
0117 977 8216 www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
CARDIFF
13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk web: www.whitegeckocraftlounge.co.uk
DEVON
53 Newbegin, Hornsea, HU18 1AB Tel: 01964 535 599
ESSEX
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Workshops • Materials • Equipment
6 Rayne Road, Braintree, CM7 2QH
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
ESSEX
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
HAMPSHIRE
HERTFORDSHIRE 142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383
11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA
One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts
Visit us for local service with internet prices Fabrics & Trimmings Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm
tel: 01242 244025
Tel: 01255 474009
www.westendsewing.co.uk
80d Rosemary Road, Clacton-on-Sea, CO15 1ND
FIFE
GREATER MANCHESTER
www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
LANCASHIRE
Patchwork Parade “Q” House, Russell Street, Chadderton, Oldham OL9 9LF
Minerva Blue Fabric for soft furnishings, craft and upholstery, haberdashery; bags, scarves and other gifts. minervablue Tel: 07592 639594 Email: minervabluesewing@btinternet.com 88 High Street, Newburgh, Fife KY14 6AQ
FIFE
Quality cotton fabrics, threads and haberdashery, kits and patterns. Classes for all skill levels. OPEN TUESDAY-SATURDAY 10AM-4PM
T: 0161 633 5900 W: www.patchworkparade.com E: patchworkparade@gmail.com
Haberdashery ● Workshops
Bobbin Sewing School The Stables, The Vine, High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6HF
www.thesewstudio.co.uk
E: hello@bobbinsewingschool.com
01383 621894
www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Unit 35, Basepoint Business Centre, Stroudley Road, Basingstoke RG24 8UP
07900 828431 hello@purple-stitches.com www.purple-stitches.com
HAMPSHIRE
HAMPSHIRE
●
55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7DL
Your award-winning craft superstore! Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations!
HAMPSHIRE
01252 444220
Unit 18C • Hart Shopping Centre • Fleet • Hampshire GU51 3LA
www.sew‐busy.co.uk
Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE
Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road, Dibden Purlieu SO45 4PX
The home of Modern Couture, Fitting, Tailoring, the Sewing Retreat and so much more
02381 783386
71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE65 1AH
sue@newforestfabrics.co.uk www.newforestfabrics.co.uk Stockist for: Patchwork and Dress Making Fabrics plus much more… New Arrivals Weekly
HERTFORDSHIRE
Heavenly Arts & Crafts Cafe
Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM
Our warm and friendly charity runs a sewing cafe four times a month, as well as courses taught by a qualified teacher. We stock a small range of fabrics. CLP Sewing Cafe
Tel: 07771 99 28 95
Tel: 01530 416300 /schoolofsewing @sewalison
@sewwardrobe Sew Wardrobe
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk & www.sewwardrobe.co.uk
LEICESTERSHIRE
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
LEICESTERSHIRE
NORFOLK
NORTH YORKSHIRE
Sewing workshops and courses for all abilities Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and essentials for dressmakers and quilters Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY
Customer Loyalty Scheme
01603 716140 www.gillybee.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS
LINCOLNSHIRE
LINCOLNSHIRE
NORTH YORKSHIRE
www.mooloos.co.uk • Sewing workshops from ages 9+ • Silver Sewing Machine Stockists • Fabrics, Haberdashery & Alterations
“Dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons, haberdashery and sewing classes” Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PB
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk NORFOLK
5 MARKET PLACE, BRACKLEY, NN13 7AB
Phone: 01280 308 721 Opening times: Mon, Tue, Thurs & Fri 9.30am - 4pm Saturday 9.30am - 2pm Closed Wednesday & Sunday
NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE
Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.
Tel: 07495 012546 Email: info@bugweeds.co.uk
www.bugweeds.co.uk Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
“Your one stop sewing shop” Dressmaking, Pattern Cutting and Jane White Couture Tuition Award, Certificate & Diploma Programme
Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts! Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects. We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you. Official supplier of Elna and Baby Lock sewing machines and overlockers
Tel: 01482 840712 www.janewhitetuition.co.uk The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT
LINCOLNSHIRE
“Fun for all the family plus tea and cake!” Broadly Patchwork Wroxham Barns, Tunstead Road Hoveton, NR12 8QU 01603 781665 www.broadlypatchwork.co.uk info@broadlypatchwork.co.uk
Fabrics & Haberdashery E-mail: Jaylaurs54@gmail.com Join us on facebook at ‘Jaylaurs Sewing Studios’
Tel. 01652 650047 54 Wrawby Street, Brigg, DN20 8JE
NORFOLK
NORTHUMBERLAND
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
Newark Craft Hub
Fabrics, Haberdashery & Wool! Stockists of Tilda Fabrics, Gutterman Fabrics & Threads, Butterick, McCalls and Kwik Sew patterns. Tel: 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk
London Road Carpark Newark on Trent Nottinghamshire NG24 1TN 01636 705909 www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
OXFORDSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
TYNE & WEAR
WEST SUSSEX
www.metrerabbit.com Email: hello@metrerabbit.com
Tel: 01993 702 933 Unit 6 Waterloo Walk 58-60 High Street, Witney, OX28 6EU
❖ Extensive dressmaking and quilting fabrics ❖ Haberdashery ❖ Friendly Sewing Classes ❖ Elna and Jaguar machine dealership
Please contact us on: 01827 288344 thesewcialstudio@gmail.com www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk 80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote,Tamworth B77 5BJ FOLLOW US ON:
STAFFORDSHIRE
SUFFOLK
64 Saville Street, North Shields NE30 1AZ Tel: 0191 258 2380 Email: info@readythreadysew.co.uk
www.readythreadysew.co.uk
WARWICKSHIRE
WEST YORKSHIRE
164A Roberttown Lane Liversedge, WF15 7LT 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week
Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops
Designer Fabrics • Materials • Equipment
33 King Street, Sudbury, CO10 2EQ
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk STAFFORDSHIRE
SUFFOLK
The Corner Patch a little corner of patchwork heaven
Fabric Sale – Saturday 7th July fabrics from £5 per metre introducing Christmas 2018 Telephone: 01785 859360 e-mail: jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk 12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ
www.thecornerpatch.co.uk STAFFORDSHIRE
WEST MIDLANDS
YORKSHIRE
COMMUNITY ARTS RESOURCE STORE
SEWING MACHINES & SERVICING - SEWING CLASSES - FABRICS & HABERDASHERY “WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother, Husqvarna & Pfaff sewing machines and overlockers. • Sole UK stockist of “Screw B Do” screwdrivers. • Fun sewing classes for all abilities. • Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts.
24 BURY STREET, STOWMARKET, IP14 1HH 01449 257070 www.stitchxstitch.co.uk @stitchxstitchstowmarket
SUFFOLK
OPENING TIMES: WEDNESDAY 13:00 - 18:00 FRIDAY 10:00 - 15:00 SATURDAY 11:30 - 15:00 WE ENCOURAGE EVERYONE TO USE RECYCLED MATERIALS TO DESIGN & CREATE EXCITING CRAFT PROJECTS
Unit 6 Cradley Enterprise Centre, 2 Maypole Fields, Cradley, West Midlands B63 2QB Tel: 07486 499 404 Email: communityartsresourcestore
thecraftyewescabin Our Inspirational Fabrics & Yarns will feed your creativity for years to come. Visit our store and ask us for your loyalty scheme card. Sun/Mon Closed, Tue/Wed/Thu 9am-6pm Fri 9am-1pm & Sat 9am-2pm
Community Arts Resource Store
WEST SUSSEX
YORKSHIRE
Haberdashery & Workshops, Clothing Alterations & Soft Furnishings 6 Green Dragon Yard, Knaresborough, North Yorkshire HG5 8AU info@zipinn.co.uk
01423 869934
sew gifts
FOUR WAYS WITH
Art Gallery Fabrics
Indigo and Aster Bringing together animals crowned in florals and multi-cultural inspired designs, the new Indigo and Aster range is sure to become a firm favourite in your fabric stash. Designed by colour enthusiast Bari. J, the collection offers jovial shades perfect for little ones, while the painterly foliage and geometric prints are equally as fitting for grown ups, too. Turn the page to discover four fabulous makes by Sew designer Corinne Bradd.
Get started
Projects exclusive to
sew!
• Printed cotton, fat quarters • Co-ordinating plain fabric • Fusible interfacing, Vlieseline Bondaweb • Wadding, Vlieseline Low Loft 249 • Cushion pad, 40cm square • Felt • Ric rac braid • Small buttons • Fibre filling • Zip, 35cm
To find your nearest Art Gallery Fabrics stockist, visit hantex.co.uk/agf 65
sewmag.co.uk
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Sew in an afternoon
Make a butterfly cushion
1
Download and print the butterfly template at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Secure fusible interfacing onto the reverse of fabric, 14cm x 40cm. When cool, trace the butterfly onto backing paper eight times and cut out, without adding a seam allowance. Cut printed cotton, 40cm square, taking care to centralise the pattern. Peel the backing paper from the butterflies and arrange in a circle on the fabric. Bond the motifs to the panel by pressing with a hot iron. Avoid moving the iron across the appliqué as this may move them out of position. Pin the panel onto wadding. Set your machine to a short 2mm wide zig zag stitch and sew around
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Stitch storage pots
1
the edges of each shape in black thread, stopping with the needle in the fabric at the corners, so you can adjust the angle easily. Cut four dark print strips, 3cm x 43cm, and stitch around the edges of the panel to make an overlapped border. Topstitch the border 2mm in from the seam. Trim two backing fabric panels, 26cm x 44cm, and hem one long edge on both pieces. Place onto the appliquéd front, right sides together, matching up the raw edges so the hemmed edges overlap. Stitch all the way around the cushion cover and turn right sides out to make an envelope back cover. Press and topstitch the sides of the cover, 2mm from the edges, to neaten.
Cut four patterned fabric, strips, four times as long as the width, e.g. 6cm x 24cm, with a 5mm seam allowance all the way around, . Repeat for the plain lining. Arrange the patterned pieces in a windmill shape so each short edge lays against the long left-hand edge of the next piece. Pin the pieces right sides together and stitch, stopping 5mm from the end of the seam. Clip the long edge of each at the end of the seam and fold it around the corner. Pin and stitch the long edges together in this way to make a pot with a zig zag edge. Make lining in the same way, leaving a 5cm gap in one long seam for turning. Slip the lining inside the holder, right sides together, and pin along the top zig zag edge. Cut four fabric scraps, 3cm x 7cm. Fold in half, right sides together, and sew down the sides of each. Turn out to make little tabs, then pleat and tack the bottom open edge. Tuck the tabs inside the top points of the zig zag top, so the raw ends protrude, then pin.
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Sew around the top of the pot to join the lining and outer, running the seam straight across the ends of the tabs. Turn right sides out through the gap in the lining. Push out the points to release the tabs and topstitch around the top to neaten. Measure the base and cut thick card this size to keep the bottom flat.
3
“‘Switch patterned butterflies for plain, then add detail with machine embroidery. you can also tailor the fabric colour to suir your receipients decor” Corinne Bradd, sew designer 66
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Find the matching bag tutorial at sewmag.co.uk
sew kids Thanks to Debs Homer for helping us name our mascot! We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of for Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Meet Tina Tentacles!
Create a circle bag
1
Cut two patterned fabric pieces and two linings, 5cm x 35cm. Pair one lining with an outer, then place the strips right sides together. Pin and stitch one edge of the zip tape between one pair of strips, right sides facing, matching up the raw edges. Turn out the fabric strips before repeating on the other zip edge. Cut two wadding pieces, 4cm x 35cm, and pin between the fabric strips. Topstitch the wadding in place, 5mm from the original seam. Trim away any excess and zig zag stitch to finish the zip gusset. Cut a fabric strip, 11cm x 50cm, then fold right sides together lengthwise and stitch down the long edge to make a tube. Turn right sides out, centre the seam and press. Cut wadding, 4.5cm x 50cm, and slip inside the tube. Topstitch each long side, 5mm from the edges, to secure the wadding. Tack the handle to the centre sides of the zip gusset, matching the raw edges. Repeat to make tubes from two fabric pieces, 5cm x 7cm. Topstitch the edges and fold in half, then tack to either end of the zip to make tabs. Cut an outer, wadding and lining, 11cm x 38cm, and pin together right sides out. Zig zag stitch around the sides to hold
2 3
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1
in place. Pin the ends of the strip to the ends of the zip gusset, right sides together with raw ends matching, and sew. Turn right sides out and press the seam to the bottom gusset side before topstitching to neaten. Cut two 22cm circles of fabric, wadding and lining. Trace a 22cm semi circle onto fabric and add 2cm to its straight edge, then cut from fabric, wadding and lining. Place the fabric and wadding right sides together and sew the straight edge. Turn out, press and sandwich the wadding, topstitching 5mm from the original seam to secure. Trim the wadding to the edge of the fabric and zig zag to bind. Layer the two fabric, wadding and lining circles together, right sides out, and bind the edges with zig zag stitch. Tack the semi circular pocket to one layered circle and pin the top of this disc to the centre of the zip gusset, as indicated by the handle. Pin the entire gusset around the circle and stitch with a 5mm seam allowance, right sides together. Trim excess fraying before binding the seam with a tight zig zag. Open the zip before pinning and stitching the other circle to the other side of the gusset in the same way, then turn right sides out.
Pin two 20cm patterned cotton squares, right sides together, then trace a wiggly and a curled leg onto the reverse of one piece, leaving a 1cm gap between the two. Keeping the fabric intact, sew along the pencil line but keep the top straight edge unsewn. Cut out the shapes, 5mm from the stitched line, clip the curves and turn each leg right side out. Repeat to make eight legs in total. Use a knitting needle to firmly stuff the legs. Stop 5mm from the top of the leg and tack across the opening to hold in place. Arrange the legs in a circle, alternating the shapes and patterns. Trace three head shapes onto striped fabric, taking care to line up the bottom edge with a stripe, then cut out with a 5mm seam allowance. Sew the pieces together along the long curved edges, matching the pattern as you do so. Clip the curves and turn right side out. Starting in the centre of one head panel, pin a leg to the outside,
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matching up the raw edges. Add another on the opposite side, then pin legs on either side of the first two before adding the remaining between. Hand sew the legs in place with backstitch, leaving a 5mm seam allowance. Remove any visible tacking stitches and firmly stuff the head. Cut a 7.5cm felt circle and 8.5cm fabric circle. Place the felt with the wrong side in the centre of the fabric disc. Fold the fabric edges over the felt and tack. Pin the disc felt side down over the open end of the octopus head, tucking the raw edges of the head and legs inside. Slip stitch the disc in place to cover all raw edges, adding stuffing to the head if necessary, before closing the seam completely and removing the tacking. Cut two 2cm circles of dark coloured felt and clip the bottom edge of each. Stitch a small button to the centre of each pieces of felt before pinning and oversewing the eyes to the front of the head. Trim the join between head and legs with ric rac braid.
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© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.
STUART HILLARD Take a deep breath and dive into the world of mindfulness! August is here and I can’t believe where the year has gone! I know that makes me sound awfully old but it truly has been a whirlwind. I’ve written a new
book, designed a couple of fabric ranges for The Craft Cotton Company, seen a wonderful new home sewer crowned Dressmaker of the Year, stitched a great many quilts and projects for my home, and I’ve been sharing it all with you here at Sew magazine. Despite the hectic pace, I can honestly say that crafting, and sewing in particular, is still my therapy and sanctuary when I need a retreat. Living a creative life or just spending half an hour making something is the perfect antidote to a stressful day and my favourite way to unwind. During the summer I get to combine my passions: crafting, being outdoors and cooking just about every day. Spending time in the garden, walking in the fields around my home or having a picnic lunch by the river are all it takes to remind me what a beautiful, precious world we live in. ECO WARRIOR Speaking of nature, some crafting friends and I recently challenged each other to spend the month being more environmentally aware, particularly in our crafting lives – and it’s been an interesting one! I had new lights fitted in
my studio which are energy-saving and ecofriendly, the very thing to make a difference not just this month but every month! They respond to external light levels and dim or to maintain an even brightness for working. They also switch themselves off automatically if they don’t detect any movement. I had them set a little too sensitively at first and found myself having to wave my arms dramatically every 30 seconds just to stop them turning off! I’ve also got into a much better habit of switching my sewing machine and iron off when I’m not using them too. It’s a small thing, I know, but every time I remember to do it I know that I’m making a difference.
“Spending half an hour making something is the perfect antidote to a stressful day and my favourite way to unwind” SAVING THE PENNIES As well as going eco-friendly, we also set ourselves the challenge of not buying anything new this month and using up the patterns, thread, fabric and notions we already had. I made an exception with the eco-lights obviously, but I didn’t spend a penny all month on fabric or threads. Now I know that anyone with a half decent stash could survive an ice age without buying any more stuff, but
I love nothing more than relaxing with a good book!
psychologically it was the toughest challenge! It’s so tempting and easy to go after the latest, shiny treat and totally ignore all the things we bought last month, or even last year. I discovered some fabric and notions that I had bought at Sewing Bee Live and had left in the bag, and stumbling upon those purchases was like going shopping all over again. The best bit? It didn’t cost a thing! ALL THINGS NEW Having said that, I can’t resist testing my sewing skills with new gadgets, so when I had the chance to try out AccuQuilt GO!’s 10th anniversary dies on Create and Craft TV this month, I leapt at the opportunity! The range includes a whole variety of motifs, including a leaping frog, an aeroplane and an elephant. After being inspired by a fellow Instagrammer, I decided to use the dies to create a cushion using the plane motif and a simple flower die to create the clouds. I then added flying geese at the side using the AccuQuilt GO! Qube to finish off. Oh and before I go, I wanted to give a quick shoutout to the book I’ve been reading this month: The Mindfulness in Knitting: Meditations on Craft and Calm by Rachael Matthews, which is reinforcing all the magical benefits of crafting to me. Whatever you’re making this month, I certainly hope it brings you calm and peace!
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit stuarthillard.com 70
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• TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL
your essential guide to
TRAVEL MAKES
It's holiday season and whether you're a keen sightseer or a beach bunny, our handy projects will make the journey there and back even more enjoyable – and you can whip them up in plenty of time before you go! If you're flying abroad, our pretty set of pouches will keep your passport, documents and bank card safe, plus the travel pillow and eye mask will keep you comfy on long journeys. Finally, for weekend trips closer to home, our nautical rucksack is a must for carrying your belongings in style.
Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ
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• TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL
''Fusible interfacing will help your items keep their shape for a more professional finish. Make matching sets of travel accessories for all the family to avoid mix-ups!"
Get started
• Cotton fat quarters, five prints • Turquoise lining fabric, 50cm square g • Heavy weight fusible interfacin • Fashion snap fastener • Zip, 22cm
Corinne Bradd, sew designer
Stitch a document wallet
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Cut 25cm x 40cm from printed cotton and turquoise lining. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the print fabric. Snip two more 3cm x 5cm pieces from the leftover print. Fold under 1cm on the short edge and topstitch the tabs to each end of the zip. Trim 11cm x 16cm each from contrast print fabric and lining. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the printed cotton. Sew right sides together, leaving a 5cm gap on one edge. Clip the corners and turn out to make a pocket. Topstitch the upper edge, then pin and topstitch the other three sides to the centre of the first fabric, 3cm down from one short edge. With the wallet face up, lay the neatened zip face down along the top edge and cover with the front lining, face down. Pin the layers and sew close to the teeth using a zipper foot. Open the layers so the zip extends along the top. Topstitch 1mm from the seam. Sew the other edge of the zip between the opposite edge of the fabric and lining in the same way. Turn the wallet wrong sides out and press until the zip lies 2cm down from the top fold. Pin the sides and sew. Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and zigzag stitch the edges to neaten, then turn the bag right side out through the zip.
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Cut printed cotton (14cm x 19.5cm), then fuse interfacing to the wrong side. Snip contrast print, (6cm x 14cm) fold under 5mm on each long edge, then topstitch it down the centre of the main fabric to make a spine. Trim two 4.5cm contrasting fabric squares, then cut diagonally to make four triangles. Fold under 5mm on the slanted edge of
each and topstitch them into the corners on the main fabric. Sew two 5cm x 14cm printed rectangles to the ends of the main fabric, right sides together, securing one side of each triangle as you do so. Snip lining fabric, (14cm x 27cm), then stitch to the fabric cover, right sides together, leaving a small gap in one edge. Clip the corners and turn right sides out. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and topstitch the whole rectangle, 2mm from the edge. Press the
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rectangle and fold in the ends along the seam line. Slip-stitch the tops and bottoms of the folded pieces to create pockets for the passport cover.
Sew a card holder
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Snip printed cotton, (7cm x 20cm), and lining. Fold contrast fabric, (5cm x 19cm), in half lengthwise, then sew across one short edge and down the long side. Turn out to make a strap. Place the rectangles right sides together and sew around the sides, leaving a gap in the
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centre of one short edge. Clip the corners and turn out. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip the rough end of the strap inside. Topstitch both short ends of the rectangle, securing the strap. Fit a snap fastener to the end of the strap and the other end of the rectangle, 3cm down from the short edge. Fold the rectangle in half, right sides out, and slip-stitch the long edges to make a sleeve. Slip a bank card inside, securing with the snap fastener.
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Make a passport cover
Designer: Corinne Bradd
• TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL
Get started
• Cotton jersey, Flyaway Petalums Sky, Art Gallery Fabrics, 50cm • White cotton, fat quarter • Coordinating ricrac braid, 2.5m • Toy stuffing • Quilt wadding • Elastic, 40cm (1cm wide)
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Cutting guide
Neck pillow: cut two each from from jersey and plain cotton Eye mask: cut one each from jersey, plain cotton and wadding. 1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
Create a neck pillow
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Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, tracing the template onto the wrong side of the fabric and adding an extra 1cm for the seam allowance. Sandwich the jersey pieces right sides together and pin the cotton piece on top, either way up. Sew around the edge, leaving a 10cm wide gap in the middle of the outer curve for turning. Clip the inside curve of the seam and turn the pillow right side out. Stuff between the cotton layer and one jersey layer so that the other jersey layer is lined with the cotton. Use small handfuls of stuffing so the pillow gradually forms a smooth surface without stretching the fabric. Slipstitch the gap closed. Use a small running to attach a length of coordinating ric rac braid along the seam line.
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Sew an eye mask
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Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, adding a 1cm seam allowance around the edge of the template. Layer the jersey and cotton, right sides together, then pin the wadding on top. Sew around the edges, leaving a 6cm gap along the top edge for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the tight curves. Turn the mask right side out, fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed. Lightly press the mask with an iron. Sew ric rac braid around the edge with a small running stitch and attach one end of the elastic to the back of the mask where indicated on the template. Try on the mask, holding the elastic taut across the back of your head, and trim to fit before stitching the other end in place.
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Designer: Corinne Bradd
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• TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL
Get started
• Three printed fabrics, Lewis and Irene, 1.5m each • Leather • Fusible interfacing • Webbing tape, 2cm wide • Buckles: two roller, 3cm wide; two sider, 3cm wide • Eyelets: 5.5mm, 1.4cm
Cutting Guide Main fabric Bag front: cut 37cm x 60cm Bag flap: cut 20cm x 30cm Lining Main lining: cut 37cm x 90cm Base lining: cut 17cm x 30cm Flap lining: cut 20cm x 30cm Pocket lining: cut 17cm x 25cm Pocket flap lining: cut 10cm x 25cm Co-ordinating fabric Bag back: cut 30cm x 35cm Back cuff: cut 4cm x 30cm Pocket: cut 17cm x 25cm Pocket flap: cut 10cm x 25cm Base: cut 17cm x 30cm from leather
Make a nautical rucksack
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Hand-sew snap fasteners, buttons or a magnetic clip to the pocket flap to the bag cuff back, and flap. Place the flap panels right sides together, round off the bottom corners and sew the three curved edges. Turn out and press. Cut two 30cm pieces of webbing tape. Snip two 7cm x 33cm fabric strips, turn under 5mm on one long edge for each, then loosely wrap around the webbing tape, leaving fabric excess at one end. Slipstitch the hemmed edge over the raw edge, catching the tape in the stitches. Fold the excess fabric in at the bottom of each tape to create a point, then slip-stitch. Pin the straps to the flap front, 6cm in from the sides, matching the top raw edges and the seam on the underside.
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Topstitch 14cm of the straps to the flap. Cut two 38cm pieces of webbing tape, and wrap the top 28cm with foam wadding to make shoulder straps. Wrap each strap with fabric, (13cm x 38cm), tapering at the ends of the straps to 3cm, then pin and topstitch the hemmed edge. Tack the padded strap ends to the top of the flap, hemmed side up, matching the edges to the existing straps. Lay the back cuff face up, place the top edge of the face-up flap over it, matching the raw edges. Make two small pleats in the flap ends, reducing the width by 2cm each side, then pin. Tack the flap to the cuff, lay the bag over both, right sides together,
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matching the raw edges, then sew using a 1cm seam allowance. Turn out, check all layers and straps are encased, then sew again. Cut lengths of webbing tape, 40cm, then cover with fabric as before, folding in one short end of each and slip-stitching. Tack the raw end of each strip to either side of the bag back, 3cm up from the base. Sew the bottom edge of the bag back to the long edge of the leather base, right sides together, then topstitch. Pin the back and front of the bag together at the sides, enclosing the side strap, then sew and turn out. Fold the raw ends of the padded
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Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide. Iron fusible interfacing to the bag front, then zigzag stitch the edges. Place the pocket panels right sides together, and round off the two lower corners. Sew 2cm darts in the centre of the curves on each piece, then pin and sew around the panel, leaving a 5cm gap in the top edge. Clip the curves and turn right sides out. Press and fold in the raw edges of the gap, then topstitch closed. Pin the pocket to the centre of the bag front, 6cm from the base, and topstitch. Place the pocket flap panels right sides together, then round off the lower corners. Sew around the flap, leaving a 5cm gap at the base. Turn out, press, fold in the raw edges and topstitch the sides and lower edge. Make two small pleats in the top edge of the flap to match the width of the pocket. Pin the flap 1cm above the pocket and topstitch. Sew one long edge of the leather base to the centre bottom of the bag front, right sides together, stopping 1cm from each end. Open, then topstitch the seam on the fabric side. Sew the bag front to the short edges of the leather base in the same way, leaving excess seam allowance for joining later. Iron interfacing
• TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL • TRAVEL SPECIAL
strap in by 5mm, then slipstitch. Pass each strap through a slider buckle, fold up 1cm around the stationary bar and topstitch. Sew the bottom of the lining fabric to the edges of the lining base, then match the side seam and stitch. With the lining wrong sides out, slip it over the bag, then push the straps and flaps inside. Match the top of the lining with the front and back cuff. Sew the top edge, leaving a 15cm gap in the back cuff edge. Turn the lining out through the gap and push back inside the bag. Sew the gap closed, then topstitch the top of the bag. Mark eight spaces around the neck of the rucksack, 11cm apart, then punch holes and fit eyelets in each one. Thread 120cm of cord or fabric through the holes. Place two roller buckles 1cm above the pocket, in line with the flap straps. Mark their position, then hand-stitch the centre bars. Punch holes and fit eyelets into the straps.
'“Try to keep the seam of the straps to one side of the webbing tape; this will prevent it getting broken when the eyelets are fitted”
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Corinne Bradd, sew designer
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Designer: Corinne Bradd
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FREE Stitch Style Sweet Dreams Book *
Here at Sew, we have arranged for all readers to receive a FREE* Stitch Style Sweet Dreams book by Margaret Rowan, worth £12.99. Make your bedroom a haven of loveliness, warm and cosy for long winter lie-ins or bright and breezy for leap-outof-bed sunny mornings. Sweet Dreams gives you all the inspiration you need to create perfect bedrooms for yourself, your family and your guests. Easy-tofollow instructions with step-by-step illustrations and lots of detailed photographs will guide you through the creative process from preparing your fabric and cutting it out, to sewing and adding finishing touches. So get sewing and create your dream bedroom!
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Download your digital patterns in
4 EASY STEPS! Summer skirts to make your feet dance!
FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP
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...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.
NEXT, SEARCH FOR A GARMENT
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...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.
DOWNLOAD THE TEMPLATE
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ALICE A-LINE
GABRIELLE PENCIL
You’ll be patch pocket perfect with this on-trend A-line.
Transform one metre of fabric into a fashion favourite.
...by pressing the ‘click here’ button, under the main image.
SAVE THE PATTERN PDF
4
...by right clicking to save to your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to page!) PRINT OUT & KEEP
Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 113 August 2018
JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’
You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print
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EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n e en o r betw Gathe
BACK FACING Cut one pair
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FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair
FRONT FACING fold Cut one on
Cut one pair for back panels
BACK BODICE Cut one pair
Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels
FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold
‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready in order to join the sheets! 20
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centre front
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Lorem ipsum
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WAISTBAND Cut one only
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All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.
DEBRA WRAP-AROUND This D-ring darling will take you from desk to dinner. 78
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SELENA SKIRT
Go bold or go home in this flowing wrap skirt.
sew gifts
PULL UP A SEAT FOR THESE
BREAKFAST
Essentials
Get started • Cotton print fabric: floral, patterned, plain, pink, red, green • Waste canvas, 14 count • Embroidery thread • Elasticated bands, pink • Fusible interfacing • Wadding • Ribbon: grosgrain, regular • Wool felt • Buttons 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
Projects exclusive to
sew!
Stitchy makes for your morning meal are an egg-cellent addition to your sewing repertoire – and it’s the perfect excuse to invite your friends over and show off your latest creations. Over the page we have four projects that will brighten any morning: there’s cross-stitch jam jar covers, sweet strawberry egg cosies, plus projects to keep your brew of choice piping hot.
Share your makes with us on social media at @sewhq 79
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sew
Pink polycotton, ÂŁ3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Pink Moda fabric, ÂŁ3.15 per fat quarter, prettyfabricsandtrims.co.uk
Stitch a jam jar cover
Create a floral cosy
Size: 17cm diameter
Size: 28cm x 33cm
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Download and print the cross-stitch guide at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Fold cotton fabric, 20cm square, in half one way, then the other way to find the centre. Place a square of waste canvas over the fabric, marking the centre with a pin, and tack around the edge to secure it in place. Following the template for the fruit and flower basket design, create the lines of cross-stitch – working outwards from the canvas centre. Use two strands of embroidery thread for the cross stitch, and one strand for the backstitch. When the stitching is complete, dampen the canvas and use tweezers to pull out the waste threads. Press the jar cover, then place a compass with its point in the centre of the design to draw a circle, 17cm diameter, on the back. Trim using pinking shears. with a decorative button.
Cut a pink rectangle, 21cm x 28cm, fold in half, shorter sides together, and trim one set of corners in a curve. Using this as a template, cut another set in the rectangle for the lining and two in the wadding. Snip two pink rectangles, 12cm x 28cm, plus six squares in assorted designs, 11cm. Sew in two sets of three, press the seams open and join the long side to the rectangles. Trim and press the seams open. Place the pink semi-circle over both patchwork sides, and trim. Press interfacing to scrap fabric and cut out flowers and leaves. Peel off the backing and iron it onto the patchwork. Add wadding to the back, then sew the flowers. Attach a quilting foot and add free-hand embroidery, plus running stitches for detail, then press. Lay the lining on top, right sides together, and stitch the long base. Open out the seams and press towards the lining, then lay the other joined edge on top, right sides together. Match the sewn seams and pin.
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Homemade touches Nothing beats making personalised gifts for friends and family, so why not stitch a pretty jam jar cover to protect their favourite preserves? 80
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For a speedier make, add embroidery surface decoration using your sewing machine
5
With your ribbon, add a loop between the top layers. Stitch around the oval, leaving a small gap in the lining. Pull the cosy out through the gap, then sew shut. Tuck the lining inside the cosy and press, then topstitch the bottom edge.
sew gifts Lecien Dots fabric, £8 per yard, fatquartershop.com
Amy Butler Splendor, £12 per metre, cottonpatch.co.uk
Sew a patchwork cosy
Make our egg warmers
Size: Custom sized
Size: 6.5cm square
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Measure the circumference and height of your cafetière body and subtract 2cm from each, then divide by two to give the number of squares required for the height and width. Multiply for the total number of fabric squares needed. The blocks are 3cm square, once cut, arrange them in a panel. Stitch in pairs, right sides together, using a 5mm seam allowance. Finger-press the seams to one side, then sew in fours. Connect the blocks, then press. Place on wadding, topstitch and trim. Cut several strips, 3cm wide, of plain cotton, then join short ends together to make a strip of binding. Sew around the right side edge of the patchwork, and mitre the corners. Fold the binding to the wrong side, fold under 5mm on the raw edge, and slip-stitch the panel reverse. Create two 5cm ribbon loops and seal the raw ends. Stitch the loops to one short end of the patchwork so they fall inside the handle. Wrap the fabric around, marking the position of each loop on the
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Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Iron interfacing to pink, white, green and red fabrics, 6.5cm square. Using the templates, cut a large circle in pink, a small disc in white, a strawberry in red and leaves in green. Iron the fruit and leaves onto the white, remove the paper, edge with blanket stitch, and add French knots to the strawberry. Following the template, prepare one front and back piece in floral and white. Iron the pink circle onto the
other end, and handstitch buttons to these marks.
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Personalise each cosy with a hand-embroidered name for each of your family members
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main front, and edge in blanket stitch, press the strawberry appliqué to the pink, and edge in the same way. Stitch the main cosy, right sides together, leaving the bottom unstitched. Sew the lining fabric as before, leaving a gap at the top. Turn the main cosy wrong side out, and place the lining inside. Pin, then stitch the lining to the cosy along the bottom edge. Use the lining gap for turning the cosy right side out. Press, then seal the gap. Finish with a loop of ribbon and a tiny button.
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Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!
SHIBORI: THE ART OF INDIGO DYEING
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Dip your toes into something new this summer and give the art of Shibori a try! This new title by Nicola Gouldsmith is to win! packed with plenty of beautiful step-bystep projects. Visit makeetc.com We have eight books to give away. To enter, tick SHIBORI
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Stitching just got ten times quicker with a little help from the Gemini machine. This nifty gadget can cut through multiple layers of fabric with ease, including vinyl, foil and card for the rest of your crafting projects. Why not give it a try? Available at hunkydorycrafts.co.uk
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SAVE THE PLANET Calling all eco dressmakers! This 100% organic combed cotton thread is wound on traditional wooden spools meaning it's completely plastic free! It also has a low lint content for a flawless finish. Available at hantexonline.co.uk/ organic-thread
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Win Sew... The GarmentMaking Book of Knowledge, alongside the Charlie Kraft Tex backpack pattern! It doesn't get better than a book containing core sewing techniques accompanied by a pattern to put your skills into practise! ctpub.com
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your
SEWING GUIDE
Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255
Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!
Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221
THE PERFECT FIT
Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932
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The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope. You can then make any alterations that are necessary. Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS HIGH BUST
Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
FULL BUST
WAIST HIPS
Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist. 84
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Stay cool with this FREE floral tunic pattern at sewmag.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
wear with
EASE
‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily. Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitting garment? “Our cotton batiks are handmade from Indonesia and lovely for clothes, but can also make great quilting material. Be sure to wash and allow for shrinkage before you start to sew.” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL
PREPARE YOUR PATTERN
Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting. This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.
CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC
SELVEDGES
FOLD
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.
GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.
FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“Understitching is a straight row of machining used to hold a facing to its turnings. It is not visible from the outside of the garment. Attach the facing then layer and snip any curves. Press the turnings towards the facing. Work a row of machine stitching on the right side of the facing close to the seam line holding the facing onto the garment. The understitching will prevent the facing from bouncing out.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC
PLACING YOUR PIECES
Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching so you can adjust if necessary. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.
S BIA
Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first. This means that you will know how the material reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press it with an iron using a suitable heat setting. After, lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.
READING A PATTERN
The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
WARP
Indonesian Batik – Pink Rain, £11.95 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
WEFT
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the BOOKS we’re loving...
sew BOOKS
Dare to try something different with these easy reads
Botanical Inks by Babs Behan
Learn how to transform wild plants, garden produce and recycled food into dyes. By extracting sustainable colour from your back garden, you can create natural dyes for textiles, clothing, paper and so much more! Perfect for those of you who want to reconnect with nature. Quadrille Publishing, £16.99, hardiegrant.com
How to Dress
by Alexandra Fullerton Author and former fashion director at Stylist magazine, Alexandra Fullerton encourages readers to streamline their style and get to know their fashion icons. Find out all the tricks trendsetters use to create essential items, define their look, and shop the high-street successfully. This book will make sure you never open your wardrobe and think ‘I have nothing to wear’ again! Pavilion, £14.99, pavilionbooks.com
Heavy Duty Sewing by Anton Sandqvist
Heavy Duty Sewing is certainly not the usual how-to guide. From the founder of iconic outdoors brand Sandqvist, comes this cool craft book that helps you create ten sewing projects for the countryside, town and travel. With hiking rucksacks, aprons, knife holders and vanity bags, there are projects for both the experienced stitcher and those who are yet to master the machine. Frances Lincoln, £16, quartoknows.com
Sew... The Garment – Making Book of Knowledge by Barbara Emodi
It doesn’t get much better than a book based solely on helping you get the most from core sewing techniques and improving existing garment skills! Barbara has spent most of her life sewing, or thinking about sewing, so take advantage of her tips, tricks and words of
wisdom on the benefits of stitching, the importance of fit and so much more. Stash Books, £22.32, ctpub.com
Granny’s Kitchen Cupboard by John Alexander
Follow the puzzling collector ‘Granny’, as she presents a selection of post-war goods – from children’s toys to chocolate wrappers. Get a dose of nostalgic inspiration from brands such as Boots and WHSmith, as well as vintage catalogues and curious odds and ends. Check out the haberdashery and tool box on page 94 for ‘make do and mend’ tokens. Pavilion, £14.99, pavilionbooks.com
Enter to WIN a copy on p82
Indigo
by Kerstin Neumüller and Douglas Luhanko This is the essential guide to growing, extracting and using indigo dyes for beginners and beyond. The dynamic duo have collected a variety of classic and modern dye recipes – including environmentally friendly alternatives. The dye’s true potential is explored through a variety of craft projects – ranging from Japanese resist techniques to embroidery and quilting! Indigo dyeing is set to be a huge trend so get ahead of the game. Pavilion, £15.99, pavilionbooks.com
Menswear Revolution by Jay McCauley Bowstead Menswear fashion has transformed from uniformed outfits to re-imagined staple pieces. Bowstead’s book explores how men can express themselves through their clothes, and provides inspiration for sewists who want to create something unique for the man in their life! As 80s fashion is becoming increasingly popular in 21st century garments, use this book for blast from the past inspo! Bloomsbury, £25, bloomsbury.com
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DRESS TO IMPRESS l Make in just two hours! l Personalise with pockets
IT’S TIME TO GO TWO-TONE
YOU’LL LOVE OUR SEPTEMBER ISSUE! l Be inspired by print
designer, Orla Kiely
l Get fanatical about facing
THE COMFORT FACTOR
with Debbie Shore
l Plus, beautiful bags for
l Try a handkerchief hemline l Make it sleeveless
every occasion!
MAKE A NOTE! OUR SEPTEMBER ISSUE IS ON SALE 26th JULY 2018 89
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nd. Grosvenor Britain & Irela
Frida Kahlo with an Olmec figurine, 1939.
by ember 2018. Sponsored Self Up, 16 June-14 Nov Frida Kahlo: Making Her
Kahlo wore embroidered garments effortlessly, and so can you in this scarlet jacket, £49, monsoon.co.uk
Kick off your look with this gorgeous maxi dress, £90, houseoffraser.co.uk
get the LOOK!
Bring Frida’s love of detail and embroidery into your outfit with Florentine work, a popular form of needlepoint, also known as bargello. It forms zigzag patterns, referred
to as flame stitch, and is always worked in a variety of different colours. Go for punchy jewel tones for a fiery project Kahlo would be proud of. Find this project at sewmag.co.uk
Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up, 16 June-14 November 2018. Sponsored by Grosvenor Britain & Ireland.
STYLE ICON
FRIDA KAHLO
MAGICAL SURREALIST TO SERVING FASHION REALNESS From her extravagant floral headbands to iconic monobrow, Frida Kahlo is every inch the icon of originality. Now, fifty years after her death, the
Victoria & Albert museum are celebrating the Mexican artist in all her glory by revealing an intimate collection of her personal artefacts and clothing. Ignited by her country’s culture, Kahlo explored questions of identity, postcolonialism, class and gender in Mexican society, and expressed it through both her art and personal style. Forget 1920s flapper fashion, her clothing embraced folk culture through embroidered dresses, bright pink boots and cat eye sunglasses; she adapted traditional clothing to truly express her creativity. The most unique aspect of the artist’s style was the way she clashed colours, textures and patterns. The eclectic prints boasted one-of-a-kind looks and her statement, ornate jewellery brought her ensembles to life. By far, Frida’s most iconic accessory were her hair pieces: elaborately decorated with fresh flowers and head wraps, her braided locks took on a life of their own. French silk and Spanish cotton were also typically used by Kahlo to sew her own garments, such as long skirts and flowing huipiles – perfect for the scorching Mexico heatwaves.
STRAIGHT TO THE CATWALK
Interest in the revolutionary’s style took off in the 1980s and it wasn’t long before her inspiration began to make its way onto highfashion catwalks. Take Gucci, its autumn/ winter 2017 collection was overflowing with florals, bold bows and ruffles – all in keeping with the Mexican icon’s love of excess. In addition, the horticultural prints of Dolce & Gabbana, and the hot pink looks from Balenciaga were a tribute to her archetypal head wear. Notably, Kahlo wasn’t afraid to mix androgynous and feminine styles, and designer, Isabel Marant recalls how Kahlo’s family portrait from 1926, in which she is seen wearing her father’s suit, had a profound effect on the stylish, boxy and mannish tailoring of her collection. It’s clear the legend of her look is here to stay and, much like the artist’s work, will continue to be deconstructed and reinvented in more and more imaginative ways. 90
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Kahlo’s dress: a cotton huipil with machine-embroidered chain stitch and a printed cotton skirt with ruffles.
To coincide with the exhibition, the V&A Museum presents the new title, Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up. £22.75, amazon.co.uk