jdjsls

New! MANDALA HOOPS · PATCHWORK TOYS · KIDS’ SUNHAT INSIDE!

JULY 2018 ISS 112 £7.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

10

Stand-Out Separates

x

PALAZZO PANTS · SPEEDY TUNIC + MORE!

trust your free

Summer Skirt in 5 easy steps!

pattern

Wear & Wow! Two-Hour Dress

You’ll love our

LION TOY

Back to Basics! PERFECT POCKETS · SEAMLESS REPAIRS · KNITS MADE EASY

Hello... July

I’m thrilled to introduce myself as the new editor of Sew magazine. From rummaging through my grandmother’s button tin to cosying up on the sofa with my mum’s handmade quilts, the gentle hum of the sewing machine has never been far away for me, and I couldn’t be more excited to immerse myself in everything this vibrant community has to offer.

To kick off our July issue, we’ve got TWO versatile patterns enclosed to help you get your summer wardrobe off to a flying start (p10). Master the art of stitching with knits using New Look 6428, or dip your toes into cold shoulder details and fancy frills with Simplicity 8337 – there’s eight varied styles to choose from.

Fiona Hesford returns with an in-depth masterclass, showing you how to create oh-so-flowy palazzo pants – they’re perfect for wherever you decide to jetset off to this summer (p41). You’ll also find a deliciously nautical waist-tie skirt created from Seasalt Cornwall’s all-new fabric range (p24).

For a touch of inspiration, why not flick to page 73 where we chat to this year’s Dressmaker of the Year winner, Jennie Stones, and our well-deserved category champs? If their stories inspire you to enter next year’s competition, it’s not too late to brush up on some essential skills. Tilly Walnes stopped by to chat in-seam pockets, Lauren Guthrie shares the top tools you need to create children’s wear, and Amanda Walker walks you through creating a stunning shirred frock.

Finally, there’s still time to nominate your favourites in this year’s British Sewing Awards. You can find all the details on page 56 – there’s a £200 bundle up for grabs and you’ll get your hands on our FREE Jackie Russell pattern. So, what are you waiting for?

41 56

Happy sewing!

Lucy xx

Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

FREE pattern!

There’s still time to nominate in the British Sewing Awards!

sew

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

7

20% off !

Get 20% off all Atelier Brunette fabrics at Minerva Crafts!

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

TWO FREE PATTERNS INSIDE!

sewmag.co.uk/templates

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

10

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk



Subscriptions

0330 333 0042

facebook.com/ sewhq

03

Twitter @sewhq

sewmag.co.uk

Instagram @sewhq

Your summer essentials!

Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew

in your July issue...

71

61

52

57

Meet our mascot!

IN EVERY ISSUE 03 Welcome

Come and say hello!

TEA BREAK

50 10 sewing challenges... and how to overcome them!

06 Who, what, wear

Solve your stitchy dilemmas with our trouble-shooting guide

17 Sew social

73 Meet our Dressmaker of the Year!

What’s trending in the sewing world You’ve been sharing your makes

46 Stitch & learn

Our pick of sewing classes and tools

55 Sew wishlist

The team's top picks for July

84 Your sewing guide

Stitchy jargon explained!

87 The books we're loving The latest must-reads

89 Next month

Our August issue's out on 28th June

We reveal our sewing stars for 2018

90 Style story: bikini

Discover the secrets behind our favourite beachwear

KIDS

70 Dresden plate skirt

Little girls will love this vibrant patchwork skirt

70 Changing pouch

This chic purse ensures you're never without a nappy and wipes

71 Baby blocks

54 Patchwork tote

71 Lionel Stitchie

57 Yoga mat

78 Easy kids projects

60 Butterfly clips

These fun interactive toys will entertain for hours Our July mascot is the king of the jungle!

Put your stash to good use with these summery makes

GIFTS

52 Susie Johns' wedding pouches

Embroider personalised initials onto pretty gift bags

Create a stylish mat that's the envy of the class Embroider pretty hair accessories

61 Elephant shoe motifs

Give a plain pair of pumps some pizzazz

64 Make-up bag

Turn a fat quarter into a handy cosmetic pouch

HOME

58 Stuart Hillard

Our columnist celebrates the return of The Great British Sewing Bee

60

62

Combine vibrant fabrics to create a psychedelic bag

We love!

62 Beetle wall art

Work a set of botanical decorations

63 Mandala hoop Master a variety of stitches in this vibrant hanging

68 Confessions of a sewing addict

63

Corinne Bradd gets sucked into the world of online sewing 04

sewmag.co.uk

81 Daisy pincushion

Make a pretty mini pillow from felt

82 Plastic bag holder Keep your carriers organised with this handy caddy

64

FREEBIES & OFFERS

83

2 Dressmaking

FREE PATTERNS THIS MONTH!

30

pages of fashion, garments & more!

10 Two summer tops

Master jersey fabrics with your FREE pattern

13 Stylish dress

Use your FREE pattern to make a simple shift

20 Dreamy chiffon

Get romantic with soft floaty fabrics

20% off ATELIER BRUNETTE FABRICS

22 Isabella tunic Sew a flowing statement top

7

24 Millicent skirt Create a nautical skirt with Seasalt Cornwall fabric 26 Sewing SOS Take the experts' advice on buttons, zips and fasteners

28 Love your sewing room Kit out your creative space with RMF furniture 31 Sewing with Tilly Discover the art of sewing inseam pockets 32 Sadie dress Boost your skillset with elastic shirring techniques 35 What’s new from Janome!

Take a sneak peek at the latest sewing machines 36 Indie pattern news Rachel Pinheiro presents her top indie brand releases 38 Debbie Shore's show and tell Repair your garments with Debbie’s techniques

41

24

56

06 15% OFF Lady Sew and Sew Snap up bargains on ALL Vlieseline products

07 20% OFF Minerva Crafts Save on gorgeous Atelier Brunette fabrics

56 British Sewing Awards Nominate and receive our FREE toy pattern

66 Subscribe today

Receive a FREE* dressmaking bundle with a choice of fabric

76 Reader offer

Claim your FREE vintage projects book, worth £7.99

83 WIN! Giveaways

Feeling lucky? Check out this month’s selection of prizes

Subscribe today...

Great savings off swimwear fabric and fold-over elastics

Enter online at

sewmag.co.uk

10

41 Margot trousers Whip up a pair of smart palazzo pants 44 Stitch the look Check out our round-up of fab ginghams 45 Lauren Guthrie's top tools ...for sewing garments for children 48 Harmony blouse Sew a pretty top from delicate chiffon 80 4 Bonus downloads Find our online projects to make stylish sleepwear

22

FREE NEXT MONTH...

89

FREE*DRESSMAKING BUNDLE WITH YOUR CHOICE OF FABRIC

90 20% OFF Flo-Jo Fabrics

STITCHY PRIZES TO WIN!

Use your gifts to sew knit tops and dresses

FREE GIFT

SEE PAGE 66 05

sewmag.co.uk

TWO dressmaking patterns!

DRESSES & TOPS

wear

who what

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

SOAK JOINS SEW SATURDAY! As preparations for Sew Saturday get underway, we’re delighted to introduce our newest sponsor – Soak! This company offers gorgeously scented, eco-friendly laundry products including fabric smoothing sprays, which will be included in the goody bags we’re sending out to all of the shops taking part!

Visit soakwash.com

Photo by Matt Crockett

THE BEE IS BACK! After nearly two years, the wait is finally over – BBC2 and Love Productions have confirmed that The Great British Sewing Bee will return to our screens next year! Judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young will be putting the contestants through their paces once again alongside the show’s new host, awardwinning comedian Joe Lycett.

Keep watching this space, plus our Facebook and Twitter, for the latest updates!

DREAM JEANS

Jeans are a major staple in the Sew HQ team’s wardrobes, so we were very excited when Megan Nielsen Patterns announced the launch of their Ash stretch jeans pattern set.

It offers four main styles – slim leg, skinny, flared, and wide leg – plus multiple lengths for tall, regular and cropped trousers. With 13 sizes and a unique tailoring system, you can be sure of achieving the perfect fit. £13/£15.50, megannielsen.com

15% off

Vlieseline treats!

H

*Valid 31st May to 31st July on Vlieseline products at ladysewandsew.co.uk

Finishing off your projects perfectly is always important – and not just on the outside. Vlieseline offers a great selection of interlinings and adhesive tapes for garments, plus waddings, iron-on fabric films and much more for all kinds of projects. Lady Sew and Sew’s offering 15% off* ALL Vlieseline products with code 15SEW, so why not try them out today? Visit ladysewandsew.co.uk

See the winners on p73

H

H

15% off!* H

H

winner revealed!

The results of Dressmaker of the Year 2018 are finally in – and we’re sure you’ll be impressed by the results! Our team of expert judges, including Stuart Hillard, Vicky Gill, Tilly Walnes, Miss Libby Rose and Portia Lawrie, had the tricky task of selecting the category winners from the array of fabulous entries – discover who they chose on p73.

06

sewmag.co.uk

if you buy one pattern...

If you haven’t checked out Stoff & Stil’s online store yet, we recommend you take a look immediately. This Danish one-stop creative shop offers a wide range of budget-friendly adult and children’s garment patterns, all of which are pre-cut in your chosen size to make sewing them even easier! We particularly love this smart A-line skirt from Stoff & Stil’s SS18 collection which would be wearable year-round! £3.75, stoffstil.co.uk

want it, need it, BUY IT!

We love a machine that’s a good all-rounder and the Butterick EB6100 certainly fits the bill! This computerised model offers 100 stitches, including decorative styles for embroidering garments and home accessories, plus the heirloom style provides an attractive look to quilting projects. The extension table is also perfect for dressmaking, supporting long trains of fabric. £599.99, createandcraft.com

By the sea

Make our Seasalt Cornwall skirt on p24!

20% off!*

We love Seasalt Cornwall’s beautiful range of ready-made garments and fabrics inspired by the scenery of Penzance. They also have a limited edition collection of stylish canvas shopper bags to raise money for Disability Rights UK – 50p from each sale is donated to the charity – with exclusive designs by comedian and presenter, Sue Perkins, Poldark actress Ellise Chappell, and model, Kelly Knox. £5, seasaltcornwall.co.uk

20% OFF ATELIER BRUNETTE FABRICS We adore Atelier Brunette’s collection of beautiful fabrics, including cotton lawn, poplin, voile and viscose crepe – so much so that we used one to make our shirred summer dress on p32. If you’d like to give them a try, Minerva Crafts offer a wide range of this brand – and you can get 20% off* when you order online using the code ATELIERBRUNETTE. Visit minervacrafts.com

07

sewmag.co.uk

*Valid 31st May until 28th June on Atelier Brunette fabrics at minervacrafts.com. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

Stitch it with

dress

the

making

collection

Delight in eight easy summer styles with this month’s pattern duo!

New Look 6428 will help you crack the art of stitching with knits, while Simplicity 8337 offers lightweight tops with on-trend details, such as cold shoulders and feminine ruffles. Flick through and build this season’s ultimate capsule collection!

Millicent skirt, p24

Sadie dress, p32

Isabella tunic, p22

Margot palazzo pants, p41

Turn the page and get started today!

&

help

here to

Your bonus FREE pattern! p13

get stitching

your free patterns

FIONA HESFORD Make the most of Seasalt’s brand-new fabric range.

TILLY WALNES Get hands -on with stitching inseam pockets.

LAUREN GUTHRIE Stitching for babies will be a breeze.

KATE UNDERDOWN The Fold Line co-founder reveals her top button tips.

P24

P26

P45

P30

09

sewmag.co.uk

STITCH Stitch ITitWITH with

Discover the

potential

your free pattern

of your

patterns

This month, our TWO FREE patterns give you the chance to work with stretch knit fabrics, such as jersey, to make stylish and flattering garments. Begin with your Simplicity pattern, worth £8.95, which offers FOUR SUMMERY TOPS with a round or V-shaped neckline. Select a sleeveless design, or add three-quarter sleeves and even try a cold-shoulder style. Other options include adding a ruffle at the front, or embellishing the neckline with tiny diamantes. Turn the page to find out what your second pattern has to offer.

make the CUT

Prym jersey ballpoint needles, £2.39 for five, and Prym stretch needles, £2.69 for five, minervacrafts.com

Success depends on how you cut out the pattern pieces. Carefully lay out your knit fabric without stretching and ensure that the grains are straight – the edge of the table is a good guide. If the fabric is stretched in any direction at this stage, the fit and fall of your garment will be compromised as it will return to its original shape after cutting out.

Simplicity 8337, £8.95, sizes 4-26, four stretch knit tops

pick your NEEDLE

all SEWN UP

finishing TOUCH

choose a THREAD

Although stretch knits require a special needle, when it comes to sewing threads, an all-purpose polyester variety will work just fine. In fact, polyester threads have a little bit of stretch to them which is ideal when working with jerseys or similar that need some give – cotton threads have no stretch at all and will result in popped seams.

We chose two jersey knits to make up our versions of this pattern, which also suit interlock twist yarn knits (ITY) and stretch lace. If your fabric features a print or one-way design, you may need an extra amount to be able to pattern match.

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

We used Coral Dots on White jersey for Style C, £7.45 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

To avoid extreme stretching, stay stitch around the neck edges.

This is a row of machine straight stitching close to the cut edge before any seams are joined.

When joining the neck binding to the garment, ensure the join of the binding is at the centre back of the top. The centre seam is at the front of the garment.

As your FREE Simplicity pattern is made using stretch knit fabrics, you will need to select the right sort of needle. Ballpoint and jersey needles are designed specifically for this type of material, with rounded tips that push the fibres aside when sewing rather than piercing and tearing them.

Choose sizes 75 and 80 for light and medium-weight knits, or size 90 for heavier fabrics.

have a STRETCH

2FREE

Make your own bias binding to finish the hem, neckline and sleeves by cutting diagonal strips from your fabric and pressing through a bias binding maker – these are available in different sizes. You can decorate your top with Hotfix gems, which have an adhesive that is activated with a Hotfix tool or iron, or adhere regular flat-backed stones in place with fabric glue.

We used Mettler Seralon universal thread in Spring Green for the lime top and White for the polka dot top. £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com

Acrylic stick-on rhinestone diamantes, £7.99 for 1,440, minervacrafts.com 10

sewmag.co.uk

We also used Bobbie’s Apple viscose jersey for Style D, £7 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

STITCH Stitch it ITwith WITH

4 stretch

your free pattern

style selector

tops!

style a FULL RUFFLE This sleeveless V-neck top features a frill that goes up the front and all the way around the neckline.

style B

COLD SHOULDER Another V-neck design, this time featuring openings at the top of both shoulders to flex your hemming skills.

style c FAB FRILL Similar to Style A, this version has a rounded neck with a decorative frill up the centre front of the garment.

style D

STAY WARM If you’d prefer to have more coverage, this option combines three-quarter length sleeves with the round neckline.

why we made Style D

This option provides the opportunity to add three-quarter length sleeves to this top if you want to take it a step further, plus, you can embellish the neckline by stitching or gluing on beads.

11

sewmag.co.uk

cond f Yourn se erlea ov er patt

the perfect

size

the right

Stitch it with

fit

Make with younr 8337 patter

your free pattern

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-towear size that you’d buy in high street shops.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

Frill Seeking

Frills, ruffles and flounces are a great way to add feminine softness to a sleeve, hem or neckline. Style A on this blouse pattern shows a neckline flounce, which has been inserted into a vertical front seam and around the neckline to create a lovely waterfall effect. Style C has a similar ruffle up the front.

Flounce OFF

Flounces are cut circular, drafted in one complete piece, and attached flat. There are several methods to create them but this blouse requires a tapered end so it can be neatly fed back into the seam on the front.

why we made Style C

TOP TIPS

The inner edge of the circle is the edge that you attach to the blouse and the outer edge of the circle creates the volume in the flounce. Insert the flounce into the seam and stitch through the flounce and garment.

Always finish the hem of a flounce before attaching to the garment with an overlocked or a rolled hem. Press the seam one way and layer it to reduce any bulkiness.

This design is simple enough to reassure sewists who find stretch fabrics a little intimidating. The ruffle sewn into the front seam is easy to insert and provides the top with a softer, feminine feel.

12

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch it with

with your

get creative

free pattern

Your New Look pattern, worth £6.95, has FOUR DRESS options to choose from which, like your Simplicity pattern, are also sewnfrom stretch knits. There are two SLEEVELESS STYLES that are perfect for summer, or you can opt for MID-LENGTH SLEEVES for a dress to wear in cooler weather. Choose from jacquard, jersey, Ponte Roma, single or double knits to make your dress, and try either a solid colour or a bold print.

We used Mettler Seralon universal thread in Iced Pink to colour match our fabric. £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com

keep it HIDDEN

your free pattern

This pattern features an invisible or concealed zip – when closed, all you see is a plain seam with a small pull at the top. The easiest way to insert one is with an invisible zip machine foot, which is designed specifically for this type of fastener. It holds the zip teeth away from along the path you are sewing and the stitches attach the zip tape to the seam allowance only.

wash and PRESS

Knits can shrink just as much, or even more, than regular fabrics so it is important to pre-wash and dry your chosen material beforehand. Although knits don’t crease very much, it’s a good idea to press it before cutting so it lays flat when cutting.

Your fabric may stretch a little if you dry it hanging up, or press it with the end hanging over the ironing board, so lay it flat or folded on a table to rest for a couple of hours before cutting.

White 22” invisible zip, £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com

Prym smooth ergonomic tracing wheel, £4.09, minervacrafts.com

insert your ZIP

Overlock or zigzag the seam edges, then open the zip and place face down on the right side of the garment with the coil along the seam line. Stitch down the right-hand side to the slider, using the groove in the foot to hold the teeth away, then make a few back stitches to secure.

trace your PATTERN

We used Tulips in a Row jersey in pink melange, £12.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

To mark your pattern pieces, roughly cut them out leaving an inch or so outside the largest size, leaving all the sizes intact.

Lay them onto the fabric and hold in place with pins or weights. Slip a contrasting sheet of dressmaker’s carbon paper under the edge of a pattern piece with the coloured side face down on the fabric. Roll a tracing wheel along the pattern lines in your chosen size, moving Hemline dressmakers the carbon paper around as needed carbon paper, £3.49, minervacrafts.com until all the lines and any markings are transferred onto the fabric.

on the LEFT

Pin the other side of the tape face down to the corresponding left-hand seam on the garment at an equal distance from the edge. Use the left-hand groove in the foot to part the teeth so you can sew the tape down to the slider as before. Close the zip.

Colourful Triangles Melange Jersey in pale mint, £12.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

big FINISH

cutting EDGE

Remove the paper pattern pieces from the fabric before cutting out.

You can use regular fabric scissors for this, although a rotary cutter will provide an even more accurate result as the fabric can be left flat as you cut and be less likely to stretch or distort. Place your fabric on a cutting mat, then roll the rotary cutter firmly along the lines, being careful of your fingers on the blade as you go.

Always remember to cover the rotary blade each time you put it down as they are extremely sharp.

With an ordinary zip foot positioned left of the needle, sew the remaining seam, starting slightly to the left of the back stitches at the bottom of the tape.

Finally, stitch the bottom of the tape to the seam allowance only, either with the machine or by hand. This prevents the zip stitches taking all the strain when you use the pull to close it.

Fiskars easy blade change titanium rotary cutter, £16.99,

Birds in Rose Garden jersey in pink melange, £12.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

minervacrafts.com

13

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch it with

EASY

your free pattern

style selector

summer dresses!

style a

ON THE BUTTON In addition to three-quarter sleeves, this round-necked version has two buttoned faux welt pockets at the front for decoration.

your free pattern

style b

KEEP IT SIMPLE For a quicker make, leave off the sleeves and plackets from Style A, focusing on the darts for shaping.

style c

CHILL OUT Another sleeveless option for the warmer weather, this time with a V-style neckline for an alternative look.

style d

COVER UP Combine the longer sleeves of Style A with the V-neck of Style C for more of a kaftan style for cooler evenings.

faux welt Try makinagstthfae br ic with in a contr ng button s matchi

14

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch it with

your way

dream

make it

machines £1,299

INNOV-IS NV1800Q

If you enjoy a wide range of techniques, from dressmaking to quilting and home furnishings, this is the machine for you. The adjustable presser foot pressure helps to stitch pucker-free seams on even the stretchiest fabrics. Plus, you get 234 built-in stitches and fully automatic thread tension that adjusts to your chosen stitch.

why we made Style B

With no sleeves and a simple rounded neckline, this dress lets you focus on inserting an invisible zip and neatening the seams to perfection.

SAVE £299

INNOV-IS 20LE

The computerised machine offers fantastic versatility with an electronic jog dial to easily choose from 40 stitch patterns, including five buttonholes.

The automatic needle threading system and quick set top loading bobbin makes it easy to set up and the electronically controlled functions allow you to adjust the stitch sizes in a simple and precise way.

Visit brothersewing.co.uk

Sizes 6-18 (US)

Sizes 8-18 (US)

Next month’s 2 FREE patterns 15

sewmag.co.uk

DOUBLE THE STYLE

Choose from four dresses and four tops with your TWO FREE patterns!

16

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU!

We take a look at what you’ve been sewing this month – as always, we’re blown away by your talent and creativity! Don’t forget to send in your latest projects...

I had a very productive sewing weekend recently, I made a New Look pattern 6532 top to match my pyjama bottoms. I stitched the Margot bottoms in January and I’m now celebrating in my super-comfy sleepwear set.

Anna Wood

I really enjoyed making your Mother Hen mascot from the April issue of Sew. I added weights inside to turn it into a doorstop.

Josie Winder

I made two of these simple lined cosmetic bags for my little girl and her friend – they are both mad about pugs!

I used medium-weight interfacing to give it structure, along with boxed corners, and I added a keyring and hook so that they’re able to attach it to another bag.

Emma Howarth Dalzell Kitching

Last Sunday I made my daughter, Betsie, an Oliver + S dress for our trip to Kenilworth Castle.

Charmaine West

p71

Say Hello to Lionel Stitchie!

This is a flamingo print doorstop that I made whilst waiting for open heart surgery. I’ve just had the operation and I can’t wait to get back to sewing. I even made my own hospital bag too, which I was super pleased with!

Wendy Davis

chosen by you

Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot.

“I chose Lionel Stitchie as the name for your mascot – like Lionel Richie but a lion-all-stitchy. And now that I’ve won the competition, I’m Dancing on the Ceiling!”

Lillie Reynolds, Sew reader Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 17

sewmag.co.uk

Lillie has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN!

I love Sew magazine and I keep every issue as I never get tired of looking through them for inspiration. I ran these dresses up for my granddaughter after buying a set of three T-shirts, then I combined them with offcuts to make these fabulous outfits!

I make a lot of clothes for myself, and 1950s style dresses are my favourite!

When I was out with my mum one day, I saw a beautiful floral dress on a mannequin and decided to make my own version using a lovely grey and white polka dot cotton.

Jenny Roney

Rhian Holmes

I decided it was a shame to leave my cross stitch projects rolled in a tube, so I made them into cushions.

Moira Godber

Last year, myself and two friends ran a sewing challenge on Instagram, encouraging stitchers from around the world to make a shirt dress using a pattern and fabric of their preference. Instead of judging the ‘best’, 16 random participants got gifts from various sponsors.

The response was incredible!

Hundreds of people entered, with beginners trying new patterns and more advanced sewists sharing lots of tips. This year we have a new Instagram challenge to make a wrap dress, with 55 gifts lined up. It runs until 21st June – use the hashtag #sewtogetherforsummer to enter.

Monika Mobley

on the sew blog...

Check out our eight top makes for wedding season, including gifts and accessories.

I started sewing last December and already I’m addicted!

I made this The Very Hungry Caterpillar inspired dress for my youngest daughter because it’s her favourite story and, of course, she loves it because it’s ‘super twirly.’

Fleure Biggs

At long last, the Sewing Bee is coming back to your screens – get the low-down here!

Stitch this drawstring bag from the comfort of your home with Corinne Bradd’s easy tutorial.

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

e r a h s & h c t i t s

HHHH HH

! hy triumphs with Sew Share your latest stitc

sew

AROUND THE WORLD

H

STAR

I made an elephant doorstop as a gift for my travel-loving friend!

Kimberly Lucas

letter

H

Me-made wardrobe

I picked up Sew magazine for the first time recently and decided to subscribe – it’s a breath of fresh air and sewing is now my favourite hobby! I make almost all of my own clothes and, recently, I’ve created my own patterns, including a black and white dress inspired by a TV advert. Now some of my friends have even asked me to make them skirts or dresses!

HERE COMES THE SUN I used New Look pattern 6613 to sew this sundress for my granddaughter, just in time for the beautiful weather.

Carol Clancy

TOO CUTE I created a memory bear out of a loved one’s old baby clothes.

Laura Doleman

Sandra Openshaw

SURF’S UP

I made this The Gruffalo keepsake cushion from my children’s old baby clothes, with the Gruffalo motif from one of their t-shirts.

A seahorse wash bag and nautical-themed decorations for my bathroom.

Tracy Tompkins

Delphine Brooks

HOP INTO SUMMER We’re hopping mad for this bunny shirt! Made using the New Look pattern 6532.

Anna Wood I created a 1960s inspired A-line mini skirt complete with a matching bag for myself, and I used an authentic curtain from the era to create the look!

Laura Dickson

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19

sewmag.co.uk

dreamy

1

CHIFFON

Bargain

2

FABRIC BUY!

This sheer, delicate fabric is a popular choice for evening wear and it’s easy to see why! Originally made purely from silk, a nylon version was developed during the late 30s, followed by a polyester variety in the 50s, making it far more affordable. As well as providing floaty overlays for outfits, chiffon also suits blouses, scarves and lingerie. It requires careful handling when sewing, so use bound or French hems to prevent fraying.

1 2 3 4 5 6

Yoryu chiffon in aqua, £4.75 per metre, croftmill.co.uk Patterned chiffon in aqua, £2.99 per metre, online-fabrics.co.uk Plain chiffon in mint green, £4.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com Chiffon with tiles print, £17.75 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk Chiffon in light gold, £2.99 per metre, online-fabrics.co.uk Chiffon in baby pink, £5.50 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

3

6 4

Bargain

5

FABRIC BUY! 20

sewmag.co.uk

There’s no need for a pattern with the

stitch a SIDE-SPLIT TUNIC Get started

• Blue chiffon, 1.5m x 1.5m

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front and back: Cut two 50cm x 114cm rectangles Neck band: Cut bias strip, 20cm x 70cm Armhole bands: Cut two bias strips, 3.5cm wide, and long enough to fit around the armholes, 58cm 1.5cm seam allowances are used throughout, except for the neckline where a 1cm seam allowance is used.

1

Fold the rectangles in half lengthwise. Use the guide at sewmag.co.uk to cut the necklines and armholes. Neaten the edges of the shoulders and side edges on the front and back tunic by using zigzag stitch. Match the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces together, then pin and stitch right sides together.

Press the seams open.

2

Stitch the two ends of the neckband right sides together to make a circle, then turn out and fold in half lengthwise. Match and pin the neckband to the front and back neckline, raw edges together.

Stitch in place with a 1cm seam allowance and neaten the seam edges using zigzag stitch. Understitch the neckline on the right side of the tunic, close to the seam

ISABELLA TUNIC

This flowing top by Amanda Walker is exactly what you need to create a statement outfit this summer. The sheer fabric makes it a fabulous staple that can be worn from daytime through to evening – and it can easily be altered to suit all heights and sizes.

line, securing the seam allowance down inside the tunic.

3

Fold and press in 1cm on either side of the two armhole band strips or use a bias binding maker. Open one side of the bias strip and position it around one of the armholes, from one side of the underarm to the other. Pin and sew along the fold line pressed into the bias strip.

Fold the strip over onto the wrong side of the armhole and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge of the armhole inside the bias binding.

4

Trim any excess binding at the edges of the underarm, then repeat for the remaining armhole. Align the underarm and side seams together. The stitching line for the side seams should be approximately 25cm long, or to your waistline, and the remainder of the side edges will become the splits. Fold and press 1cm across the base of the front and back of the tunic, then another 4cm.

5

Turn the pressed hem to the right side, then stitch the side edges and turn back out.

Turn the neatened edges of the side splits twice. Pin and edgestitch in place to make roll hems that finish just inside the base of the side seam and on the side edges of the hem. Pin along the hem and edgestitch in place.

22

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

SEWING WITH SHEERS When sewing sheer fabric, difficulties can arise when sewing the first seam as chiffon often bunches up when starting to stitch at the fabric’s edge. To avoid this, pin a small strip of tissue paper under the seam line; this stabilises the fabric and stops it sinking into the needle plate. Ensure the tissue is placed an inch above the top edge of the fabric and, when the seam is complete, simply tear away the tissue.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

IN THE BLUE Bring summer vibes with a sheer crepe georgette in turquoise. ÂŁ4.25 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

23

sewmag.co.uk

Ahoy there! You’ll be making waves with our

MILLICENT SKIRT

sew a BOAT SKIRT Get started

• Fabric, 2m (132cm wide)

Sizes 8-18

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Lower panel: cut two on the fold Tie: cut two on the fold Pocket: cut four Belt tab: cut four Front waistband: cut one Back waistband: cut one 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, then transfer any markings. Sew the lower panel to the upper front piece and press the seam open. Topstitch either side of the seam, then repeat on the remaining upper back piece and lower panel.

On either side of the upper front and back, pin the pockets. Stitch right sides together and finish the side edges, then press the pocket away from the skirt. Topstitch the skirt’s pocket side.

2

To create the pleats, pin them in a gathered fashion on the front piece only, tack and stitch to secure. Fold the belt tab pieces in half, then sew with a 1cm allowance. Turn the front right side out, press, then topstitch either side of the tabs’ edges. Sew the back piece to the front along the side edges and around the pockets, then press the seam open.

Welcome aboard the Sew ship! This gathered garment by Fiona Hesford will look extremely chic on holiday or strolling down Britain’s coastlines, with its pleated front, handy side pockets, and tie belt. The lightweight skirt is made in a fabulous cotton twill print from Seasalt Cornwall, and is perfect for confident beginners as it’s a reasonably quick make.

3

Neaten the waistband’s long side edges and join the waistband pieces, right side together at the short sides, to create a ring. Fold the waistband in half lengthways, then press. Stitch around the top folded edge, 2cm away from the fold. Attach two tabs to the front of the waistband and two tabs to the back 8cm from the side seam, and tack at the waistband’s lower end.

4

Pin the elastic to the waistband then sew, extending it towards the back section. Pin the waistband to the skirt, right sides together, and tack with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Hem the lower edge at 2cm, then press.

5

To create the tie belt, join both sections together at the short ends, then press the seam open. Fold the tie in half lengthwise and stitch along the long edge, leaving 4cm open at the centre point.

Turn the tie right sides out through the opening and press.

Topstitch along the long edges of the tie. Stitch up the opening, press, and insert the tie through the tabs.

Ease the elastic by pushing gathers behind the needle as you sew 24

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

TOPSTITCHING Topstitching is a line of machine stitch that is worked on a garment’s right side. It is often used on edges, such as necklines and hems, it keeps facings in place and creates a crisp edge. A functional topstitch is sewn using a slightly longer straight stitch and matching thread. For a decorative effect, try a different coloured thread.

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

SHOPPER

************************

SAIL AWAY This Collage Boats Splash cotton viscose twill creates a suitably summery effect. ÂŁ12.95 per metre, seasaltcornwall.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

25

sewmag.co.uk

sewing

SoS Fasten your garments to perfection with our experts’ advice

Q

I’m trying to find buttons to match the fabric I’ve chosen for a dress but with no luck. What can you suggest?

Holly Winterson

Kate says

Photographer Fanni Willia ms.

Copyright Tilly and the But tons.

Finding buttons to match your outfit can be really hard, especially if you are buying them online. One great option is to use self-cover buttons – these are blank metal or plastic buttons that you can cover using the fabric for your dress. They come in lots of sizes so you are bound to find the right option. Alternatively, you can also cover a regular button if it is flat – simply cut a circle of fabric that’s twice the size and make a running stitch all around the edge, Cover buttons in matching fabric in order then place the button in the middle. Pull to colour coordinate your entire garment.. the thread to gather the fabric around the button, then stitch to secure.

If you’re running short on time, there are a couple of other ways to get everything matching. Have you considered using nail varnish or spray paint on plastic buttons? When spray painting the button, sand it very lightly before you start to help the paint to stick. Apply several light coats to get an even finish. If using nail varnish, make a little column out of blue tack and stick the button onto it, to make it easy for you to paint the colour on.

Leave to dry overnight and you will have a lovely glossy button that matches your dress!

Q

I bought my first sewing machine, which has a one-step buttonhole.

I’ve never used one before, can you help?

Rita Naylor

Tilly says

Make this floral button-up skirt at sewmag.co.uk

One-step buttonholes are very easy once you get the hang of it. Your machine should come with a buttonhole foot – secure a button into the holder at the back to tell your machine the correct length. Mark the buttonholes on the right opening of the garment. Attach the foot to your machine with the button holder at the back, then position the fabric underneath so the needle is just above the bottom end of one of the markings.

Pull the needle thread through the foot and to the left – once in position, lower the foot. Turn your machine on and select the automatic buttonhole stitch. Start sewing, and the machine will automatically stitch all four sides and stop when it’s done. You can then move on to the next one.

26

sewmag.co.uk

One-step buttonholes are easy to master and speed up your sewing!

Afterwards, open up each buttonhole by inserting a seam ripper into one end and carefully tearing to the middle. Repeat from the other end until the whole thing is open, trim the frays and you’re done!

here to

help

KATE UNDERDOWN

TILLY WALNES

thefoldline.com

tillyandthebuttons.com

The co-founder of The Fold Line, an online sewing resource with pattern reviews, sew-alongs and essential advice.

Paper

Pattern designer and tutor with her own shop in London, offering a wide range of fabrics, haberdashery and workshops.

Sewing expert and winner of a number of British Sewing Awards, including Most Inspirational Sewing Personality.

Q

Are invisible zips harder to sew into a dress than regular ones, and what are the benefits of using them?

Maureen Jameson

Lisa says

Although I love the vintage feel of a centred or lapped zipper, for me nothing beats an invisible zip for the clean lines and beautiful, professional-looking finish. You’ll find them recommended in all of our patterns at Sew Over It! Invisible zips have a reputation for being tricky, but once you know a few techniques they’re actually fairly straightforward as long as you have the right equipment. It’s really important that you have an invisible zip foot for your sewing machine as these have built-in grooves which allow the needle to get really close to the teeth – and therefore allow your zip to appear invisible from the outside of the dress.

If you have an invisible zip foot in your sewing kit (most machines come with them these days), it’s definitely worth trying it out on some scrap fabric. When I have time, I like to tack the zip into the garment first using a regular zip foot (or by hand if it’s something really special), as this will stop it from moving around whilst you stitch it in with the invisible zip foot. I definitely recommend this tip for beginners!

tip!

Buy a zip that's 5cm longer than required.

That way, you can keep the zip tab out of the way when stitching, then trim the excess.

Elsie dress pattern, £8.50/£14.50, sewoverit.co.uk

LISA COMFORT

top 4

sewoverit.co.uk

BUTTONS

The humble button can be more than just a fastener – with so many decorative styles available, they add the WOW factor to an otherwise plain garment! Here’s a few that would provide some extra pizzazz...

Sunny delight Yellow/orange four-hole button, £3.61 for two

Added sparkle Crystal button with gold spiral, £4.84 for three

In bloom

Flower mother of pearl 18mm button, £3.93 for three

Military style Gold 20mm coat of arms button, £4.14 for three ALL BUTTONS FROM PRYM – VISIT PRYM.COM/EN FOR STOCKISTS.

Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it!

27

sewmag.co.uk

r u o y e v Lo

M O O R e c a p G s e v N i t I a e r c W r u SE Update yo THE STACK SET

The RMF Stack collection is designed so that the units can be placed on top of each other in any arrangement you like – perfect if you don’t have much room. The 34.80-L overlocking unit pulls out to the left of your machine (there is also another variant of this that pulls out to the right) to reveal a series of storage drawers for keeping all of your sewing essentials organised and tidy. Price: £749

FITS SMALL SPACES

Treat yourself to an machine cabinet!

EXTRA WORK AREA

THE EXTEND RANGE

The Extend collection offers a folding top surface that doubles your work area from 50cm to 100cm deep! The left-hand side of the 39.40-R cabinet has shelves for storing an overlocker or second sewing machine, with two trays above to organise reels of thread, plus more storage drawers on the right. This is a great way to make the best use of space in your sewing room. Price: £925

EASY TO MOVE

THE BASE COLLECTION

The 37.44-L is part of the RMF Base series, with lockable castors that make it easy to move the units. It also comes with the RMF easy-Softtech Lift, which can be controlled with the i-Touch control panel which saves your flatbed position. What’s more, the RMF LED LightPad with pen tray can be set flush in the RMF-Simply-5 cutout, plus it has a wooden insert for flatbed sewing.

Price: £1,149

28

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

“The New Generation Extend collection offers so much versatility” Made in Germany, RMF Furniture offers a range of high-quality designs, with stitchers in mind. Combination Madrid is just one of many possible cabinet groupings, combining 39.55-L with 39.60-R from the Extend range – both of these can also be purchased singly or combined with other furniture pieces in the collection. The left-hand unit (55-L) has an optional wooden insert which can increase the work surface even further.

The built-in four-way socket allows you to connect your machine, plus optional LED light pads, and two additional devices. What’s more, the Extend units are all available in a choice of five attractive wood finishes.

All RMF machine cabinets come with the RMF-easy-Softtech Lift to provide a quick change over from flatbed to free arm sewing, plus the RMF-Simply-5 cutout that will fit all makes and models of sewing, overlocker, and coverstitch machines. Send RMF the make of your machine and the team will produce the correct Freearm-Insert to fit.

KEY FEATURES: 3 Extendable folding work area 3 Built-in four-way

socket 3 Fits all sewing machines 3 Wide range of storage 3 Various furniture combinations 3 Choice of five colours Prices: 39.55-L – £1,325, 39.60-R – £999, 01206 563955 (Colchester showroom) or 01722 554466 (Salisbury showroom), rmfcreateyourspace.com and rmf-moebel.com

SHOP

THE STACK SET

The Stack 34.70 is another space saving solution that can be stacked with other cabinets in the range, featuring two adjustable shelves to suit your needs. Like all of the units in the RMF collection, it is available in a choice of five wood finishes; Maple Royal Natural, Beech Style Natural, Oak Pegasus Dark, Oak Sonoma Natural, and Crystal White Pearl. It can also be installed with RMF’s folding ironing board, which is fully extendable and swivelling, with an iron rest – perfect for pressing your fabrics and seams, then stowing away as necessary.

OUR EDITOR’S PICK!

of the

MONTH WHAT’S ON OFFER? 3 Over 2,000 fabrics

in stock

3 Massive range of

machines on display

3 Servicing and repairs

with an in-house workshop 3 Free tuition with every machine purchase 3 Independent and family-run for over 60 years Visit Franklins Salisbury, 41 Fisherton Street, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP2 7SU. Alternatively, call 01722 554466 or visit franklinsgroup.com

Price: £499

With 8,000 square foot over two floors, this branch of Franklins in the beautiful city of Salisbury certainly has the wow factor! With over 60 machines on display, as well as a selection of RMF Furniture, you’ll be spoilt for choice. In addition you’ll find over 2,000 fabrics, suitable for fashion and quilting, plus haberdashery and notions. With huge stocks of wool, yarn, and all the knitting and crochet supplies you need to get started, this is a haven for sewing and yarn addicts alike! Franklins is also a dealer of Juki, Janome, Alfa, Brother, Britannia and Bernina, sewing machines and overlockers. For servicing and repairs, use their workshop and if you need to learn more, the team run fantastic sewing classes.

29

sewmag.co.uk

Sewing with Tilly ADD A PRETTY YET PRACTICAL TOUCH WITH IN-SEAM POCKETS

✂J

ust imagine if you could pop a pocket into any garment of your choosing... Well, it’s much easier than you might think! While a topstitched patch can make a real statement, in-seam pockets are a subtler way to incorporate this handy feature into dresses, trousers and much more. Follow Tilly’s tutorial to find out how.

1

2

3

4

5

6

Hold up the front fabric piece of your chosen garment to your body, imagine putting your hands in the pockets, then mark with pins where the top of the pocket openings will fall on the side seams. Highlight the same position on the back piece.

Fold the pockets away from each garment piece and press. Place the front over the back, right sides together. Pin the side seams and around the curves, matching the pockets and leaving the side seam unpinned. Mark pivot points on the wrong side, 1.5cm in from the raw edge.

Cut two symmetrical pocket pairs, then four strips of iron-on interfacing, 2cm x 19cm. Lay the strips over the wrong side of the side seams on the front and back pieces, with the top of the strip 1cm above the top of the pocket opening. Remove the pins and press the interfacing.

Using a 15mm seam allowance, stitch down one side seam until you reach the first pivot point. With the needle down, raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric until the pocket curve is pointing towards the needle, then lower the foot and continue sewing around the curve.

✂

Place a pocket over the front section, right sides together, so the side seams line up. Pin the top of the pocket side seam 1cm below the top of the interfacing on the wrong side. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance. Repeat on the other front piece and the back, ensuring they line up.

When you reach the second pivot point, pivot the fabric again and sew down the rest of the garment side seam. Repeat on the other side seam. Press the pockets and seam allowances towards the front section, and continue sewing your project!

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 31

sewmag.co.uk

Master elastic shirring with the

sew a SHIRRED DRESS

SADIE DRESS Step up your sewing skillset with this fabulous frock by Amanda Walker that’s ideal for venturing out into the summer sunshine.

Shirring elastic is a handy technique to have in your back pocket as it helps to cinch in waistlines and add a beautifully intricate effect – finish by topping off your neckline with a bias binding bow!

Get started • Fabric, 2m • Shirring elastic

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front bodice: cut one on the fold Back bodice: cut one on the fold Front and back skirt: cut two on the fold Neck binding: Cut a strip on the bias, 5cm x 82cm Armhole binding: Cut two bias strips, 5cm x 50cm

1

edges of the remaining shoulder seams. Match, pin and stitch the two together and press the seam open. Secure the two binding ends to the neckline.

5

Attach the two armhole bindings in the same way as the neckline. Neaten all the edges of the side seams and, with right sides together, stitch the side seams. Press the seams open and secure the top bound part of the seam; this will help it to remain open and stop it from peeping out of the top.

Download the pattern from sewmag.co.uk/templates and cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Fold and pin a small pleat into the centre front neckline, then stitch across the top to secure. Fold and press 1cm on either side of the neck bias strip, or use a bias binding maker.

6

Neaten one of the front shoulder seam edges and the adjacent back shoulder seam, then stitch together and press the seam open. Open one side of the bias strip and position it around the neckline. Pin in place, then stitch along the fold line pressed into the bias strip.

7

2

3

Fold the strip over onto the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding; this process can also be completed by hand slip-stitching.

4

Trim away any excess binding at the edges of the shoulders, then neaten the

Stitch the shirring elastic to the top waistline of the two skirt pieces. Stitch five rows at 1cm intervals: this technique can be applied in two ways (see Core Skill panel). Neaten the side seam edges of the two skirt pieces.

Match the ends of the shirred lines, right sides together, then stitch and press the seam open.

Press 1cm up around the base of the skirt, then another, and edgestitch to complete the hem. With right sides of the bodice and skirt together, match the waistline of the skirt to the bodice, making sure that the side seams and the centre front and back areas of the bodice are matching the skirt.

8

Pin the two together – the skirt will need stretching out to fit the bodice – then stitch and neaten the seam allowances. Using a scrap of binding, make a small bow and hand-stitch it to the binding, just above the centre front pleat.

32

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

Core skill:

free pattern download

SHIRRING WITH ELASTIC

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Shirring is a technique for adding texture to fabric by shrinking and giving it elasticity. Most modern machines have a drop-in bobbin so the tension cannot be adjusted. If you are using a machine like this, lay the elastic onto the wrong side of the fabric and use a narrow zig zag stitch over the top, leaving a small length of elastic loose at either end of the garment. Place the elastic in the centre of the machine foot and stretch as you stitch or pull it up after to create gathers. Tie the two ends of the elastic and the thread in a knot to secure. For the bobbin method, turn to page 84.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

LAWN PARTY Designed by Mini Labo for Atelier Brunette, Garance is a fresh cotton lawn that’s perfect for summertime makes. £15.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

33

sewmag.co.uk

34

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

What’s new from action M50 QDC in The Janome

All of these new additions to Janome’s range of top-quality machines will give your sewing that professional edge. Go on, treat yourself!

Great all-rounder

Back to basics

Beginners rejoice – the Sewist 725S was designed with you in mind. Learn the stitch settings with 23 built-in styles, including all the necessary utility types and a onestep buttonhole. The built-in needle threader and jam-proof bobbin help you get started quickly, whilst the drop feed provides the option of trying your hand at free motion embroidery – the only difficulty will deciding what to make first!

Price: £299

Easy to transport

Ultra versatile

Bonus accessories!

Perfect for all skill levels, the computerised 230DC is compact and lightweight enough to transport to sewing classes and even has a hard cover. The 30 built-in stitches – including three styles of one-step buttonhole – ensure you’re covered for all kinds of projects. Other features such as a speed controller, lock stitch, and stitch settings selection at the touch of the button, will save you time and hassle. Price: £349

For the fashionistas

The M50 QDC is part of the new Janome M Series which delivers more power, stitches and accessories than most other machines! It provides 50 built-in stitches, plus an auto de clutch bobbin winder, and even a pincushion. You also get a bonus accessory pack with a range of feet, including: 1/4” seam, ditch quilting, open toe satin stitch, walking foot and quilt guide, plus darning.

Price: £539

Another member of the M Series, this time providing 100 stitches including seven buttonholes – ideal for dressmaking projects! The M100 QDC also boasts a maximum speed of 820 stitches per minute, whilst the LCD display with backlight and LED lamp makes sewing more comfortable. The extension table provides an even greater work space, plus you get the same bonus accessory pack as the M50 QDC and M200 QDC. Price: £579

Make an investment

Surprises inside

Now we get to the queen of the M Series, the M200 QDC which has 200 built-in stitches including 14 styles of buttonhole and an alphabet, plus a maximum speed of 820 stitches per minute.

The seven-piece feed dog makes sewing even smoother, along with a speed control slider, six levels of foot pressure adjustment and needle threader. The bonus accessory pack is the cherry on the top! Price £639

Spoil yourself!

If you’re considering a long-arm sewing machine, the MC 6700P is what you’re looking for. Built to be powerful and reliable, with speeds of up to 1,200 stitches per minute, you’ll be cranking out your projects in no time! The superior needle threader, maximum speed controller, easy set bobbin and knee lifter make sewing so much easier and with 200 built-in stitches, you’ll have everything you need. Price: £1,599

For more details, call Janome on 0161 666 6011 or visit janome.co.uk 35

sewmag.co.uk

TO

P

K PIC

S FR OM

IN

DE

NDIE pattern news

“This month I’m inspired by the original rule breaker, Coco Chanel.

Her designs are globally recognised as eternal and classical; she adapted fashion to a philosophy of utility and integrity of materials – at the time, a ground-breaking step towards modernising women’s fashion. Chanel used a simple palette of black, white, beige and red with splashes of Art Deco gold, metallics and plaids. Bold details for daytime were then played against the famous boyish garçonne style: clothes hung from the shoulders, androgynously cut and carefully presented, pushing the boundaries with playful feminine touches like ruffles and fluid fabrics.”

P

EN DE NT

D E SI G N E R S

Rachel Pinheiro

Narcisse Pants

houseofpinheiro.com

by Deer & Doe Difficulty:

SI Z E S4

-18

SIZ ES

Chanel is know for its feminine trouser suits inspired by the dandy men of the 1920s. The hallmark of this fashion is impeccable tailoring and attention to finishing touches. Make your own ‘Girl Boss’ dandy look with Deer & Doe’s high-waisted wide-leg pants pattern. Instead of the traditional suiting tweed, opt for tartan and turned-up cuffs to emphasise the silhouette. £10/£12, deer-and-doe.com 24 6-

Pulmu Pencil Skirt

by Named

Difficulty: Midi pencil skirts are a huge trend for the summer season, and the shape is considered a classic in every woman’s wardrobe. Named’s modern version is perfect as it allows you to play with colour blocking.

Why not pick a stretchy cream cotton-tweed with grosgrain ties for a belt and leather loops instead of D-rings? £11.50/£16.50, namedclothing.com

Paper

Paper

36

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

Betty Dress

by Louis Antoinette Paris Difficulty:

Osiris Shirt

by I Am Patterms

SIZES

8-

18

Difficulty: You can’t beat a sailor shirt,but this failsafe piece has been given a cool update with an original neckline.

This style is anything but basic while maintaining the simplicity of a casual tee.

Sew with a bold floral print or a classic stripe. Wear it half tuck in on girlfriend style jeans and ankle-tie sandals. £10.50/£13, iampatterns.fr

Very elegant and versatile, the Betty Dress design drapes over the body without enveloping the frame – it’s just as flattering as a figure-hugging wrap dress.

Sew it with a metallic crepe de chine and style with block-heeled mules. And for those who love pattern packaging, this company also offers plenty of small delights inside! £13.99, louisantoinette.co.uk

Paper

Paper

SIZES

18

6-

SUZON Shirt

by République du Chiffon Difficulty:

This pattern combines both masculine and feminine elements.

It’s cut in a relaxed slim fit and features a ruffle that delicately follows the natural curve of the shoulders.

I created my version with organic cotton, and doubled the width of the ruffles. As an added bonus, this pattern has been upgraded with add-on sleeves, too. £14, republiquedu chiffon.com

Paper

37

sewmag.co.uk

SIZ ES 18 8-

TRIED & TESTED

by Rachel

Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

REPAIRING TEARS after

Before

DARN IT!

For small tears, many sewing machines will have a darning stitch. You’ll need to use the buttonhole foot, and the machine will stitch backwards and forwards over an area of about 2.5cm.

SMOOTH FINISH

If your rip is slightly longer, move the fabric under the foot and repeat. Use a patch of tear-away stabiliser under the stitches to help stop the fabric from puckering.

Before

after

FREE MOTION FUN

FILL IT IN

Place matching fabric under the tear and secure with spray fabric adhesive. You’ll need a free motion foot – or ‘darning’ foot – and a drop feed facility on your machine.

Place tear-away stabiliser under the hole, sew around the edge to stop it getting any bigger, then move your fabric up and down under the needle, scribbling over the tear with thread.

Don’t think that a rip in a garment means you need to throw it away, there are many innovative ways you can fix or even make a feature of the damaged area. As well as experimenting with the darning stitch on your machine, you can get creative with free-motion embroidery or even raid your fabric stashes for brightly-coloured patches, embellished with cross stitch! Take a look at these ingenious ways to easily style-out or mend a rip.

FINAL FLOURISH

Place bright fabric behind the hole, drizzle strong wet glue around the edge inside the jeans to hold the patch in place, then cross-stitch around the area using embroidery thread.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit youtube.com/thimblelane 38

sewmag.co.uk

www.gillybee.co.uk • Gorgeous fabrics and sewing supplies for quilters, dressmakers and crafters.

• Great customer service with buckets of inspiration &advice.

• Stylecraft yarns and patterns. Toft Amigurumi kits and workshops.

• Sewing workshops, GillyBee Absolute Beginners Dressmaking course & Sewing Café.

Use code SEW0618 for a 10% discount online and in the shop with this advert.

Sign up to our newsletter for latest news & offers.

Visit our shop to join our loyalty scheme.

Shop open Tues-Sat 9.00-5.30 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY Tel: 01603 716140 Located just outside Norwich a stone’s throw from the A47/Broadland Northway junction. We offer free parking next to the shop.

40

sewmag.co.uk

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Adding in-seam pockets 3 Sewing pleats 3 Elasticated waistbands

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

Lounge in style with our

MARGOT PALAZZO PANTS If you are looking for a chic addition to your summer wardrobe without compromising on comfort, these palazzo pants are just the ticket! Combining slinky, breathable rayon with flattering pleats and an elasticated waistband, Fiona Hesford’s simple step-by-step guide will help you create your latest holiday look.

Get started

• Rayon challis, 2.2m (140cm wide) • Elastic, 39cm (4cm wide) • Fusible lightweight interfacing, 15cm x 50cm

Size Finished length – approx. 100cm from the top of the waistline

Cutting guide Front: cut one pair Back: cut one pair Pocket: cut one pair Pocket lining: cut one pair Waistband front: cut one Waistband back: cut one Note: Fabric should be folded right sides together. Mark the pleat positions on the front pieces according to size. Fuse interfacing to the reverse side of the waistband front only.

41

sewmag.co.uk

sew PALAZZO PANTS Inserting the pockets and pleats

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for PERFECT PLEATS Visit sewmag.co.uk /templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings. l When marking up the pleats, make sure they are spaced out evenly – you can easily check with a tape measure. l Precise pleats require plenty of pinning so be sure to take your time – for added security, use one pin on either side of the centre. l For a crisp finish, use a hot dry iron to gently press your folds into place; this will also make the fabric much easier to stitch with. l Tacking is a quick way to ensure your pleats are held in place, and will save you having to unpick and start again. l

1

3

2

Pin, then tack the pocket at Topstitch on the right side, close the top and side edge to hold to the edge. Pin the pleats at the it flat and in position. Pin, top, using the template as a guide. then sew the pocket to the lining Tack, pin, then sew a pocket piece to the lining at the outer curved edge on piece at the outer curved edge.

Finish the raw edges. each side. Finish the raw edges.

Pin one pocket lining to each front trouser piece at the curved side edges, right sides together.

Sew at the curved edge and fold to the wrong side, aligning the fold to the seam. Press.

Sewing the body pieces

5

4

Sew the back pieces, right sides together, and press. Once you've finished, pin the front pieces to the back along the sides.

Stitch the front pieces together at the centre front seam, right sides together.

Finish the raw edges and press.

6

Stitch the pieces together and finish the raw edges. Stitch the front to the back along the inside leg edge, then finish the raw edges.

Stitching the waistband

8

7

Pin the unfolded edge of the waistband to the trousers at the top edge, aligning the side seams, centre front and centre back seams. Tack to hold. Sew a 1cm seam all around waistband, then remove the tacking.

With the front waistband interfaced, sew together the front and back waistband on the short sides, right sides together, to make a ring. Press the seam open, then fold over and press 1cm on one raw edge of the waistband.

9

Cut the elastic to size, then sew with the short sides at each side seam across the waistband back. Fold over and pin, aligning with the stitching. Handsew around the easing elastic as you go. Hem the trousers, then press.

sew SHOPPER

*******************************************************************************************

Finish your raw edges with a zig zag stitch or an overlocker

TROPICAL FLOWERS A lightweight rayon challis dotted with tropical flowers. £8.75 per metre, dragonfly fabrics.co.uk

PALM PRINT Get summer vibes with a silky palm design, £4.38 per metre dragonfly fabrics.co.uk

TERRIFIC TEAL A delicate floral print on a deep teal blue. £4.90 per metre dragonfly fabrics.co.uk

******************************************************************************************* thank you for shopping!

42

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Project exclusive to

sew!

43

sewmag.co.uk

WHY NOT TRY?

Stitch the Look

GORGEOUS GINGHAM

1

Known for its distinctive checked pattern, gingham was traditionally a medium-weight cotton or cotton blend fabric in blue or white.

Nowadays, any textile with a check print is referred to as gingham, from heavy-weight cottons to seersuckers, knits and even delicate georgette and chiffons.

The styles also vary from bold designs to tiny prints in a wide range of colours.

2

3

Gingham jump suit, £55, littlewoods.com

4

5

“Gingham has always been a popular fashion staple, with designers such as Burberry using it in their latest collections. Our gingham knits are available in light to mid-weights – perfect for the summer.”

1 Bittersweet red gingham cotton jersey, £9.95 per metre 2 Candy plaid cotton jersey, £9.95 per metre 3 Classic blue gingham cotton jersey, £9.95 per metre 4 Desert Sky Mint gingham cotton spandex knit, £17.95 per metre 5 Desert Sky Marsala gingham cotton spandex knit, £17.95 per metre

Mark Creasey, Girl Charlee

All of the featured fabrics are available at girlcharlee.co.uk

44

sewmag.co.uk

sew LEARN

Lauren Guthrie’s

TOPsewing TOOLS for children

T

here’s something extra special about using your stitching skills to whip up a babygro for your newborn, or gifting soon-to-be parents with a beautifully handcrafted garment that can be passed down through the generations. Here, I’ve picked out the essential gadgets you’ll need to create cute and comfy clothing with ease.

2

Stretchy knit garments are quick and easy to sew for babies – even more so when you have an overlocker to hand! I use the Janome 6234XL, which allows me to sew the seam and finish off the raw edges at the same time.

1 4 3

1 MINI IRON

Adding French seams to kids’ garments is a really nice touch and means there are no rough edges laying against their skin. Pressing is key for a neat finish and this Prym mini iron is great for accuracy, especially when sewing mini outfits. £24.99, williamgee.co.uk

2 VARIO PLIERS

Adding poppers is a must for baby clothes to make them easy to take on and off when you’re changing nappies. I always use my Prym Vario pliers to apply the snaps – they are so satisfying to use! £13.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 45

3 JERSEY SNAPS

These lightweight press fasteners are ideal for using with the Prym pliers, and the pastel colour range is really pretty too.

They’re designed for use with jersey fabric, which is my go-to for comfy children’s clothing. £4.80 guthrie-ghani.co.uk

sewmag.co.uk

4 IKATEE PATTERN

Designed exclusively for kids, the Ikatee pattern range is chock-ablock with cute outfits, including this Cordoba pyjama set. The unisex design features a kimono style top and harem pants, complete with a practical elastic waistband. £13.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

The Sewing Cafe, Hinkley Visit thesewingcafe.co.uk Sewing Pod

30

SAT

JULY

In this new addition to The Sewing Cafe’s class schedule, discover how to create a handy fabric storage basket for transporting your tools or keeping them organised at home. You’ll be shown how to use fusible foam interfacing to give it structure, as well as sewing a drawstring top and elasticated pockets before finishing off with beautiful bias binding.

The price includes all the materials and equipment required.

Price: £39

&learn

Stitch

JUNE

Introduction to Roman Blinds

Fancy making your own window blinds? This three-hour workshop THUR will demonstrate making up a samplesized version, introducing you to all the techniques you’ll need to create your own made-to-measure version at home. The blind will be lined, with a hook and tape header, and the tutor will also explain how to string up and hang the finished version.

All materials and equipment will be provided.

Price: £45

5

COURSE INCLUDES PATTERN!

From garments and tote bags to Roman blinds, our latest workshops round-up has it all

Sew Creative, Petersfield Visit sewcreative.org.uk Summer Tote Bag Perfect for a beginner or someone looking to up their skillset, this class demonstrates how to make a lined and padded SAT tote bag with either a button or zip fastening depending on your preference. Students are asked to bring two 1m pieces of cotton fabric, 60cm of fusible wadding, plus a 60cm zip or large button. Thread and the use of Sew Creative’s machines is included in the price. Another class is scheduled for Saturday 18th August, from 10am-2pm. Price: £40

JUNE

16

JUNE

29

JULY

Learn to Machine Sew

This workshop is perfect for beginners who’ve bought FRI their first machine and want to learn how to use it, or anyone keen to develop their skills further.

During this two-hour lesson, students will be shown the basics including winding the bobbin, threading the machine and practising simple stitches, whilst making a small item to take home. You can bring in your own machine, or use one provided

by Sew Creative.

Price: £25

Sleepwear Shorts

This class on making a pair of simple unisex shorts provides a gentle introduction to dressmaking patterns and suits those who are SAT already confident with a sewing machine. You’ll have the option to adjust the length or add trims to suit, and be shown how to make an elasticated waist and decorative drawstring. In addition to materials and equipment, you’ll also be provided with the pattern to take home.

Price: £49

21

46

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

GillyBee Designs, Brundall, Norwich

AUG

These classes are extremely popular in an environment WEDS that is truly inspirational.

Work at your own pace on your chosen project, whether it’s dressmaking, quilting or crafting (no curtains or blinds however) and receive dedicated guidance. There will be a maximum of six people per session which run for two and half hours on Wednesdays up until 5th September. Booking in advance is essential – pre-book four sessions to receive a discount.

Price: £15 per session or £45 for four

1

Visit gillybee.co.uk JUNE

6/13

Tilly and the Buttons Cleo Dungaree Dress

If you’re a beginner to dressmaking but can already use a sewing machine, this workshop will teach you how to sew seams and overlock them, apply facings and topstitch, using the popular Cleo dungaree dress pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. This is a fun evening workshop which includes all the fabric and notions in the price. Alternatively, you can book it for Saturday 7th and 14th July from 2pm-5pm.

Price: £75

Summer Sewing Café

WED

JULY

4

GillyBee Absolute Beginners Course

This is Gilly’s original WED beginners sewing course that teaches various dressmaking skills with lots of tips too!

Following a commercial pattern you will learn dressmaking technology over four weeks whilst making a six panel skirt. You’ll discover how to thread up your machine, sew seams and overlock them, plus inserting a zip, applying interfacing, attaching a waistband and sewing a curved hem.

Price: £85

Sew Over It, online Visit sewoverit.co.uk

Sewing Shirts Log on and learn to sew both a classic women’s shirt and men’s shirt with video tutorials, photographed step-by-step instructions and a selection of in-depth technique guides. This class will introduce you to collars and collar stands, yokes, and traditional cuffs and plackets – and show you how to get beautiful results every time. The class includes Sew Over It’s Ultimate Shirt and Hackney Shirt patterns.

Price: £45

LEARN AT YOUR OWN PACE!

ANY TIME

Sewing Coats: Chloe Coat

This online class is perfect for anyone who wants a step-bystep guide to sewing their first coat, but doesn’t have access to physical sewing classes. The Chloe Coat is Sew Over It’s most requested pattern that can worn year-round and you will be taught a variety of essential techniques to make it up, from measuring yourself and choosing fabric, to inserting the zip and adding a lining.

Price: £40

ANY TIME

Sewing with Knit Fabrics Fancy learning to sew with knits?

This new online class is designed ANY to give you a broad understanding TIME of how to stitch these fabrics, leaving you confident to work with any type of knit in the future.

Using Sew Over It’s Emma Dress and Alice Top patterns as the basis for the class, you’ll learn how to work with different types of jersey, as well as lots of new construction techniques.

Price: £45

47

sewmag.co.uk

Stitch a featherlight and feminine

HARMONY BLOUSE

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a CHIFFON BLOUSE Get started

• Lightweight fabric, 1.8m (150cm wide) • Elastic (5mm wide)

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Neckline binding: cut one 4.5cm x 69cm strip on the bias Bow: cut one 4cm x 88cm strip on the bias Elastic: cut two lengths 1.5cm more than your wrist measurement 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Add a row of staystitching along the sides, armholes and neckline (see Core Skill panel).

Pin the front and back pieces right sides together, stitch one of the shoulder seams, then press it towards the back.

Leave the remaining shoulder seam unstitched.

2

Make double-fold bias binding from the neckline strip by folding each long edge in by 1cm (or using a 2.5cm binding maker) and pressing, then folding in half lengthways and pressing again. Unfold one side and pin it around the neckline,

Introduce yourself to lightweight fabrics with this simple-sew floaty tunic, using a pretty chiffon like designer Amanda Walker has here or any delicate fabric of your choice - even a drapey jersey would work well.

This project involves basic techniques such as stitching bias binding, gathering sleeves and making a rouleau loop. If you’re using a fabric that frays, be sure to neaten all raw edges. right sides together, beginning and ending at the open shoulder seam.

Sew along the fold line.

3

Fold the strip over to the wrong side of the neckline, pin, then edgestitch. Trim any excess binding at the open shoulder seam. Pin and sew the remaining shoulder seam, then press it towards the back. Pin the side seams, right sides together, sew, then press them towards the back.

4

Using a 5mm stitch length, sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of each sleeve, from the front notch to the back one. Fold each sleeve in half lengthways, right sides together, then pin and stitch the underarm seam. Press the seam towards the back. Pull the gathering threads and place the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together, matching the notches and the underarm and side seams. Pin, then stitch.

5

Fold and press a double 1cm hem at the sleeve cuffs, pin, then edgestitch, leaving a small gap. Thread a length of elastic through the gap, then stitch the ends to make a ring. Sew the gap closed, then repeat for the other sleeve. Fold and press a double 5mm hem at the base, pin, then edgestitch (or use a rolled hem foot on your machine).

6

Fold the bow strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then stitch the long edge with a 1cm seam allowance. Use a loop turner to

48

sewmag.co.uk

turn right sides out, tuck the ends inside, stitch across, then press. Tie the strip into a bow, then stitch to the centre of the front neckline.

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

STAY STITCHING The suggested fabrics for this garment are stretchy with good drape which look great on the finished garment but, as the side seams are cut across the bias, can stretch if you aren’t careful. An easy way to avoid this is to sew a single row of straight stitches within the seam allowance of each diagonal or curved edge.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

FLORAL FANCY Lightweight chiffon with lots of drape, featuring bright pink and green flowers. ÂŁ3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

49

sewmag.co.uk

10

Sewing Challenges

...and how to overcome them!

Ever had a project go swimmingly, only to run into a sewing roadblock? We look at how to avoid the most common obstacles Words by Jane Goulding

1

2

Taking your measurements incorrectly Getting body measurements wrong is a common issue for practical and emotional reasons. There are some that you’ll never be able to do yourself, so recruit a trusted chum to help. Famous Frocks writer Dolin O’Shea advises, “Be kind to yourself, but also be honest. If you’re taking the time to sew garmentsfor yourself, you want it to be something you can wear!”

Starting more than one project at a time

Who isn’t guilty of this one? We see a friend wearing a great handmade skirt, or spot a cool new pattern – and before we know it, we’re stopping and starting different projects.

But as dressmaking blogger, Janet, for DIY Wardrobe confesses, this can lead to a juggling nightmare: “Flitting between two similarly coloured jersey projects on my overlocker, I foolishly applied a 7mm seam allowance to a T-shirt pattern with an allowance of 1cm.

Sounds trivial, but the shoulders looked weird and I stitched all the seams before I noticed.

Don’t multi-task: nobody’s as good at two things as they are at one!”

3

Failing to finish seams properly

We’re told that garments should look as good on the inside as on the outside – but it’s something only you will see, so what’s the point? Well, as Lauren Digby, blogger at Lady Sewalot, points out, unfinished seams won’t stand up to much wear and tear. “That garment you’ve slaved over will be unwearable if it frays so much that the allowance is lost,” she warns. “In many cases, a zig zag stitch on the edge of an allowance is all you need.”

50

sewmag.co.uk

4

Making the wrong fabric choices

It seems the one clanger that dressmakers trips up the most is poor fabric selection, whether it’s ignoring pattern recommendations or skipping crucial preparation. Teacher, Amanda Bowden stresses that a lush impulse purchase which doesn’t fit the pattern brief is never as good as a simple choice used well. “You won’t force something to behave in a way that it can’t. A fluid viscose with a structured skirt pattern equals plenty of tears!”

Weight and stretch are critical to making a product that fits, flatters and stays the distance.

5

Picking advanced patterns too soon

6

Not transferring your pattern markings

Much as we all want to rush towards projects with intricate shaping in the beginning, it’s easy to bite off more than we can chew.

Amanda explains: “I think the biggest mistake novices make is to select a pattern which is too advanced for their skills. Avoid too many challenges in one pattern, practise basic techniques in different fabrics, and start with simple, well-fitting projects to hone your craft.”

Oh, those crazy notches and circles. Maybe you’ve mused over the need for a particular pattern mark, but whatever you do, pattern designer Jennifer Lauren urges, don’t skimp on transfer. Every pattern is a sewing lesson and contains everything you need. “Use tailor’s tacks and good-quality chalk,” she says. “Enjoy the whole process, rather than focusing on the end. It should be enjoyable – that’s why we do it!”

7

Relying on ready-to-wear sizes

Hands up who hasn’t moaned about the difference between high street and dressmaking sizes? Lucky you! As former GBSB contestant, Jenniffer Taylor, points out, confusing the two is one reason why many budding stitchers give up. “Guys, you’re not sewing it wrong, you’re just using the wrong size! Always use your bust and hip measurements, and adjust if necessary.

Sewing should empower you to feel good in your own skin.”

8

Wearing a garment without any alterations

9

Forgetting to press as you go

Under pressure? We must say, one frequently flagged-up dressmaking hassle has nothing to do with a needle and thread – but neglecting your ironing time. As Amanda reveals: “My first technical teacher at the London College of Fashion told me that sewing is half construction, half pressing. Correctly pressing a dart, using heat to set a seam and shrinking fabric to ease are all crucial, as the garment will sit correctly with a crisp finish.”

And if you’re worried about heat damage, use a pressing cloth.

10

Taking dodgy sewing shortcuts

“You cut the fabric, sew the pattern pieces together and try it on. Without any tweaks, When we’re desperate to flaunt our fabulous it fits perfectly... and then you wake up!” creations, we’ve all heard that little voice chuckles blogger, Katrina Kellam. As saying ‘maybe we can just skip the next step’.

Jennifer notes: “I know it’s boring to make “But rushing is the root cause of so many a toile when you just want to cut into your mistakes,” says Jenniffer, “from not finishing pretty fabric, but it’s crucial to test the fit seams to skipping crucial instructions. and make sure the style suits your shape.”

Putting yourself under pressure is a needless She recommends using toile fabric that’s hassle – and it takes away from the cheaper, but similar to the recommended type important business of – and don’t forget to press seams and trim having fun!” allowances, just as you would for your final garment.

51

sewmag.co.uk

USE INTERLACED CHAIN STITCH TO PERSONALISE

Susie Johns’

WEDDING POUCHES Get started • White, ivory or pink fine weave linen, 30cm x 45cm • Pink and green printed cotton, 40cm x 45cm • Erasable fabric marker • Embroidery hoop • Perle cotton thread, white or ivory • Embroidery thread: pink or green • Ribbon or cord, 1m

Size 19cm x 29cm

This composite stitch starts with basic chain. A contrasting thread is then looped along one side first, followed by the other of the line of chain, creating a braided effect. Here it is used to embroider pretty monograms on linen drawstring bags – in soft pastel shades, they’re lovely as thank-you gifts to bridesmaids. Each can be personalised with their initial as a cherished memento of the big day. The chain stitch is worked using perle thread, while the interlacing stitches are worked with two strands of embroidery thread.

irls on your computer for your Choose a font with elegant sw no or Snell Roundhand monograms, such as Zapfi

Cutting guide Bag: cut two 21cm x 29cm rectangles from linen

Lining: cut two 21cm x 39cm rectangles from printed cotton 1cm seam allowance used, unless otherwise stated.

Embroider the initial

1

Select and print your chosen initial – it should be 6cm high.

Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide – for the lining pieces make sure the shorter measurement is across the width of the fabric, so the printed design is the right way up. Trace your initial onto one of the linen pieces with an erasable marker, positioning the base of the letter 10cm up from the lower edge of the fabric.

Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop with the letter in the middle. Thread a crewel needle with perle thread and work chain stitch, following the lines you have drawn. Prepare a tapestry needle with two strands of contrasting embroidery thread and, following the steps for interlaced chain stitch (opposite), working the interlaced loops along both sides of the chain. When complete, remove from the hoop, place face down on a folded towel and press lightly with a steam iron, taking care not to crush the embroidery.

2

Make the drawstring bag

1

Sew the side and base seams of the linen pieces with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch the side seams of the lining as follows: starting from the top, sew 4.5cm, leaving a 1.5cm gap, then continue the seam down the bottom corner. Repeat on the other side seam, then stitch the base. Press the side seams open.

2

Turn under the raw edge of the seam allowance on the lining where there is a gap in the seam. Fold under and press 1cm on the top edge of the lining, then again by another 8cm from the first fold.

Place the lining inside the bag, with the folded top section of the lining on the outside and slip stitch the folded edge to the front of the bag.

52

sewmag.co.uk

3

With right sides together, topstitch through all the layers either side of the gap in the seam, to form the drawstring casing. Cut the ribbon or cord in half, thread one length through the channels and knot the ends together. Repeat with the other ribbon or cord, beginning and ending on the opposite side of the bag.

“The perle thread makes a nice thick line of chain stitch that is less likely to snag when worked into – but it would be a bit too heavy for the interlacing” Susie Johns, Sew designer

Interlaced chain stitch Work chain stitch from right to left or vertically, travelling upwards, whichever feels more comfortable for you. Make sure the stitches are all the same size for a neat result. Once you have worked the regular chain stitch, thread a blunt needle with two or three strands of embroidery thread to begin the interlacing chain stitch.

1

Bring the needle up through the fabric at one end of the chain. You will be working from left to right along the edge of chain that is uppermost. Pass the needle underneath the top loop of the second chain and stitch along, working downwards towards the centre of the stitch and bringing the tip of the needle up through the centre of the chain loop.

2

Bring the needle up through the fabric at one end of the chain. You will be working from left to right, along the edge of chain that is uppermost. Pass the needle underneath the top loop of the second chain stitch along, working downwards towards the centre of the stitch and bringing the tip of the needle up through the centre of the chain loop.

3

Pull the needle through to form a neat loop on the outer edge of the chain stitch, making sure not to pull the thread too tightly.

Turn to p59 for more embroidery projects!

53

sewmag.co.uk

4

Repeat steps 2 and 3, each time working two chain loops ahead and one back. The interlacing loops should lie neatly along the top edge of the chain. When you reach the end, turn the work and interlace along the opposite edge of the chain.

PIECE TOGETHER A

patchwork tote

Get started • Cotton print fabric, 9cm square x 32 • White cotton fabric: 32cm x 62cm; 16cm x 75cm

Size 30cm square for bag body 5mm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

Who’d have thought that a simple arrangement of squares could lead to such a fabulous display of flower power? Corinne Bradd’s tote project is the perfect way to co-ordinate any loose ends of fabric that you might have lying around, and even if you don’t follow her particular colour arrangement, you’re sure to be inspired by this bag’s psychedelic style.

Create a patchwork tote

1

Sew the squares right sides together into adjacent pairs, with a 5mm seam allowance.

Stitch the pairs together into square blocks of four in the same way, matching up the centre seam. Sew four blocks together to make one side of the bag, making sure the seams line up for a neat finish.

Press the reverse of the panel. Repeat to create the other side of the bag, then stitch the two patchwork pieces together. Cut white fabric, 16cm x 75cm, in half lengthways to make two 8cm wide strips. Fold each in half lengthways and press.

Open out and press the raw edges to the centre.

Fold along the centre line to enclose the raw edges and topstitch 2mm from the edge to make two neat straps. Pin each end of one strap to the top of one patchwork panel, and repeat for

2 3

the other strap, matching up the raw edges to make equally spaced handles. Place white fabric, 32cm x 62cm, on top of the large patchwork, right sides together. Sew along the top long edge, securing the handles.

4

Open out so you have a square: one half patchwork and one half white fabric.

Fold it in half, right sides together, in the opposite direction to the seam you’ve just made, and stitched down the long side to make a tube. Sew along the bottom edge of the patchwork to make a bag, and turn right sides out.

Fold in 5mm along the raw edges of the remaining short white end of the tube and topstitch to close the gap.

Slip the lining inside the bag, making sure the patchwork parts of the bag are right sides out.

Press the top edge of the bag to neaten the seam between patchwork and lining.

Topstitch around the top of the bag, 2mm from the edge.

5

sew

SHOPPER

************************

HIP HIP HOORAY Get easy hippie chic with a pre-cut Rolie Polie Bundle. For stockists, visit rileyblakedesigns.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

54

sewmag.co.uk

sew PROMOTION

The team’s top picks for July

Wish Lis t

There’s something about the sunshine streaming through our sewing room window that gives us a little pep in our step, ready to embrace new skills, untried crafts and bundles of fresh fabric! With this in mind, we’ve pooled together a fabulous selection of treats, each designed to maximise your creativity just in time for the summer season.

, e m a r c a M The ouch T

Quick Read

Move over Sashiko, Wabi-Sabi Sewing is in town. This brand-new book contains 20 simple décor and accessory projects inspired by the latest Japanese trend for finding the beauty in the ‘perfectly imperfect’. On sale from 31st July, £15.99 (F&W Media), amazon.co.uk

Fave Fabrics

Named after all of the colourful characters that helped to make her street a home, designer Kirsten Sevig has just launched a brand-new range of prints with Cloud9 Fabrics named Elliot Avenue. We love the subtle floral prints in rich cobalt tones!

Available from hantex.co.uk

Tape It

Sensational Prints

Brown paper packages tied up with string? No thank you! Give pressies that extra sewing touch with this colourful button-patterned washi tape instead. Each roll contains 10 metres. £2, etsy.com/shop/susiebsupplies

Our resident columnist Stuart Hillard, has predicted big things for macramé this year. So, why not get ahead of the game with these pastel pretty cotton ropes from Wool Couture? They’re perfect for creating wall art, plant hangers, jewellery and more! From £7, woolcouturecompany.com

Pr ett y Pinny

The Pippi Pinafore will become your favourite go-to weekend dress. Darts and gently curved sides shape the bib, creating a flattering silhouette for multiple bust sizes. It’s a relaxed look that’ll step up your sewing repertoire a few notches. jenniferlaurenhandmade.store

Fancy trying something new? Treat yourself to the latest gadget from crafting queen, Stephanie Weightman. The Screen Sensation is a lightweight, easy-to-use unit designed to make screen printing onto fabrics a breeze. £89.99, screensensation.com

Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 55

sewmag.co.uk

NOMINATE NOW! SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS

BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2018

Nominate your fave sewing machines and Project indie haberdashery shops! exclusive to

sew Awards

NOMINATE AND RECEIVE A FREE JACKIE RUSSELL PATTERN AND INSTRUCTIONS!

!

WIN A SEWING BUNDLE WORTH MORE THAN £200 INCLUDING A ONE YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO SEW!

H

ave you got a sewing machine that you love, and a local habby store that’s a stitchy haven? If so, we want to hear all about them! The nominations stage of the British Sewing Awards are upon us once again – fill in our form below, or online at sewmag.co.uk/ awards by 27th June 2018, and those with the most nominations will go through to the voting stage

later this year – with more categories to come. As a thank you, you’ll automatically be entered into a prize draw to win a bundle of sewing goodies including fabrics, patterns, threads and a one-year Sew subscription, worth £200. In addition, everyone who nominates online or via post will receive our FREE toy pattern to make our lovable dog – Jackie Russell!

NOMINATE TODAY! SEWING MACHINES

Go on... tell us what model has become your new best friend!

Best entry-level machine brand .........................................................................

Best all-rounder machine brand .........................................................................

Best quilting machine brand .........................................................................

Best embroidery machine brand .........................................................................

RETAILERS

Is there a lovely local haberdashery that has saved your bacon, or fuelled your passion for fabric?

Best independent haberdashery shop (tick area then add shop name and location) � Wales � Ireland � Scotland � North of England � South of England � Midlands

CLOSING DATE FOR NOMINATIONS: 27th June 2018

YOUR DETAILS Title................Forename......................

Surname...............................................

Address................................................. ................................................................. ................................................................. ................................................................

Postcode...............................................

Tel number...........................................

Email.....................................................

Shop: .........................................................................

Signature..............................................

Best top-spec machine brand

Town: .........................................................................

.........................................................................

.........................................................................

� Tick here if you would like to be sent the Jackie Russell pattern and instructions

Best overlocker brand .........................................................................

Please send completed forms to:

Date.......................................................

Marketing Dept, British Sewing Awards 2018, Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY

TERMS & CONDITIONS: All entries will be entered into the prize draw which is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. Only one entry per household.

The prize is a bundle of sewing products worth £200, and cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced with any other item. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by the rules will be disqualified. No responsibility held for entries lost, delayed or damaged. Entries will be selected at random within one week of the closing date. No correspondence will be entered into.

CLOSING DATE: 27th June 2018.

Winner will be notified by post, phone or email 28 days after closing date. The winner’s name will be available in writing on request from Zoe Charge, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY. All postal entrants will receive their printed pattern and instructions for Jackie Russell 28 days after the closing date.

Aceville Publications Ltd, (publishers of Sew magazine) will use the data supplied to enter this competition.

If you would like to receive further correspondence from Aceville Publications, publishers of Sew magazine by post, phone, email or SMS please agree so we can contact you by ticking the relevant boxes below. Aceville Publications, publishers of Sew magazine will not share your personal data with anyone else.

I would like to receive correspondence from Aceville Publications, publishers of Sew magazine and agree to being contacted by: � post � phone � email � SMS

Or enter online at sewmag.co.uk/awards

sew home

SALUTE THE SUN WITH A

yoga mat Get started • Printed cottons, • Coordinating plain cotton: wine, orange, pink, white • Cotton wadding, 1.5m

Whether you’re a devoted yogi or just thinking about giving this spiritual exercise a try, there’s one piece of equipment you’ll definitely need: a yoga mat. Drop comfortably into any pose with this cotton padded design from Corinne Bradd, then simply pop it in the wash along with your workout clothes – it’s pretty and super practical!

sew

SHOPPER

************************

Sew a yoga mat

1

Cut 12 rectangles measuring 11cm x 26cm, from a mixture of navy and white prints. Sew end to end, right sides together, to make two strips of six. Trim 11cm, 30 squares from assorted dusky pink fabric and three plain cottons, then sew right sides together to make two strips of 15.

Cut three 21cm x 26cm pieces from circle print fabric and stitch end to end, right sides together, to make a strip.

2

Snip one end rectangle in half and stitch to the other end of the strip. Arrange the five strips together with the larger rectangles placed in the centre and the thinner shapes on the sides. Sew right sides together to make a complete panel and press.

Trim backing and wadding to the same size as the patchwork panel.

Topstitch down the vertical seam lines with coordinating

3

57

thread. Fit a quilting guide bar to a machine foot and set to 2.5cm, then topstitch further vertical lines down the panels.

Cut 3cm wide strips of plain fabric and join end to end to make a binding. Pin and stitch around the wrong side of the quilt, mitring the corners and fold under the raw end. Turn the binding over to the front of the mat, fold under the raw edge, then pin and topstitch to the front.

4

sewmag.co.uk

MOROCCAN MAGIC Gütermann’s Marrakesh collection is perfect for adding a colourful twist. For stockists, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

************************ thank you for shopping!

antb / Shutterstoc k.com

I’m already so excited to see what the next series brings!

I left The British Museum simply buzzing with ideas...

A cheeky selfie with some of my fellow judges!

At home with...

© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD It’s official. The Great British Sewing Bee is back!

I’ve just got back from a few days in London and my head is spinning with all the creative ideas and inspiration I gleaned from my trip.

Primarily I was there to judge this year’s Dressmaker of the Year competition in conjunction with Sew, Make it Today, Simplicity and Create and Craft. My fellow judges and I were overwhelmed with the standard of entries and the enormous love, dedication and style our entrants put into each and every garment. I’d like to personally thank every single one of you who entered the competition – you’re truly the life and soul of our community and we wouldn’t be here without you! I was also delighted that we’d had a whole load of entries from overseas this year and it was a great reminder that this wonderful enthusiasm for dressmaking is a real global phenomenon. My fellow Sewing Bee original, Tilly Walnes was there along with Miss Libby Rose, last year’s Dressmaker of the Year winner Portia Lawrie and Vicky Gill, the head costume designer from my favourite TV show, Strictly Come Dancing.

THE BEE IS BACK We had great fun catching up and speculating about the new series of GBSB. Yes! After much hearsay, the BBC has finally announced that it will be commissioning a new series of the

sewers’ favourite show, albeit two years after the last episode aired. The fifth series will be filmed later this year and applications have just closed.

What I love about the Bee is that a sense of fun and imagination are just as important, if not more so, than decades of experience. I can’t wait to see who’s been picked for season five.

“Writing is one of my favourite ways to connect with other sewers and a chance for me to share my love of crafting” BRAND-NEW BOOK While I was in London I met with my publishers and made more exciting plans for the release of my next book. Writing is one of my favourite ways to connect with other sewers and a chance for me to share my love of crafting. It can be a solitary process though – just like sewing a new top, dress or jacket, it’s often done in isolation and must face its first ‘reveal’. Fortunately, all was well received and I left with renewed vigour! I also took my first tour of The British Museum afterwards. I don’t know what took me so long to go to this incredible place. I finally visited and was simply blown away by the artefacts, art and history I came across. A day was just enough to get the merest flavour of the collections and I’m planning a much longer visit soon. I loved the Egyptian rooms, in particular the beautifully decorations painted on the inside of

As I predicted, macramé is finally making a return! sarcophagi. I couldn’t help but marvel at the dedication of the people and the strength of their beliefs to put so much beauty on the inside of a burial casket. As a quilter I was also fascinated by the wrappings of a particular mummified cat. It looked for all the world like a log cabin quilt and just goes to show that just about every fresh idea has already existed already at some other point in history.

MACRAMÉ MAGIC Talking of history, exactly a year ago I predicted the return of one of my favourite childhood pastimes, macramé, and this summer it’s everywhere on the high street!

Macramé is the art of knotting string, twine, wool or even fabric, and was originally used as an alternative to more expensive lace – although our modern versions are altogether more chunky and rustic, it’s easy to see the connection. Its net-like structure has long made it a favourite for hammocks, garden swings and the ubiquitous hanging plant holder, but it also makes the most gorgeous trim for adorning pillows, cushions and bags.

Smooth aran and chunky weight cotton yarns are easy to source and show off neatly formed knots beautifully but for something a little more beachy, try piping cord or even garden twine for a fringe to adorn one of your summer makes.

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit stuarthillard.com 58

sewmag.co.uk

• EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL •

your essential guide to

EMBROIDERY Find stitch how-tos at sewmag.co.uk

Embroidery is firmly in the spotlight right now, from embellished haute couture on the catwalk, to people taking up needlework as a mindful and creative hobby. It's not limited to traditional floral motifs either (much as we love them) – contemporary designs take their inspiration from a number of sources including pop culture and modern art. Over the page, we have four projects to inspire, including cute butterfly clips, elephant motifs to embellish a pair of shoes, beetle wall art, plus a vibrant mandala that combines a variety of stitches.

Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ

!

59

sewmag.co.uk

• EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL •

Get started • Coloured felt, 20cm squares • Quilt wadding, 2oz • Embroidery thread • Crocodile hair clips • Beads • Fabric glue

Size

5cm x 5.5cm

Stitch hair clips

1

Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk/templates. Cut out a butterfly from coloured felt and pin it on to a scrap of quilt wadding. Stitch a row of beads down the centre of the shape, working through both layers.

Using three strands of embroidery thread, begin sewing a swirl design on

2

one of the wings with a back stitch, catching both layers.

Repeat the design as a mirror image on the other wing.

Change the thread colour and work a second swirl on each wing. Continue until fully decorated.

Trim the excess wadding from the edges of the shape. Cut a second butterfly from a contrasting shade of felt, place behind the stitched motif, then join the two shapes with neat blanket stitch. Clamp the clip open to enable the back of the butterfly to be stitched on top – alternatively, secure with a strong fabric glue. Repeat to make a second clip.

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

3

Try cutting different felt shapes and applying unique designs to each

60

sewmag.co.uk

!

Designer: Corinne Bradd

• EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL •

If the shoe is too stiff to sew on the elephant motifs, use fabric glue instead

Designer: Corinne Bradd

Get started • Soft velvet or suede pumps • Cotton fabric in similar shade • Assorted embroidery threads • Embroidery hoop, 5”

Customise your shoes

1

Photocopy or trace the elephant motif provided on this page. Cut it out and check it will fit the front of the shoe.

Trace on to a rectangle of cotton

large enough to fit two motifs with a 5cm border: mark first on the left side, then reverse to trace a mirror image on to the right, leaving a gap of 2cm in between.

Fit the fabric into an embroidery hoop. Stitch over the pencil lines with two strands of embroidery thread, using small backstitch to mark out the outline and features. Fill in the motif with long and short stitch, tiny chain stitch or other suitable filling details.

Remove the embroidery from the frame, then press on the reverse. Trim the

2 3

motifs, leaving a 5mm seam allowance around the edges. Clip the curves and angles, then fold the excess fabric to the back of each motif, fixing down with a little fabric glue.

Lightly stick one elephant to the front of each shoe, making sure they face each other.

Using the same colour thread as for the outline, secure the motifs in place with tiny oversew stitches. Leave to dry before wearing.

4

!

61

sewmag.co.uk

Template to use as a stitching guide

• EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL •

sew

Get started

free template download

• Plain cotton fabric • Plain and metallic embroidery threads • Soft coloured pencil • Embroidery hoop • Small canvas or rectangle of board

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Embroider beetle designs

1

Download and print the beetle motifs at sewmag. co.uk/templates. Trace your chosen design onto clean, pressed cotton using a soft coloured pencil. Fit the cotton tightly into an embroidery hoop without over-stretching the fabric and distorting the design.

Begin sewing from the centre of the body out, using parallel satin stitch to

2

cover the wing casing. Mix single strands of different threads together for an iridescent finish, working with two or three at a time and ensuring the threads don’t twist as you sew.

Add detailing to the body, head and legs of the beetle with tiny chain stitch worked with a single thread and in the same direction each time for a neat, textured surface. Continue to use satin stitch to fill in larger areas of colour and outline sections with small backstitch for definition.

Press the reverse of the completed embroidery and lay over a small canvas or piece of board.

Secure the edges of the fabric to the back with double-sided tape, stretching it taut as you do so before covering the raw edges with masking tape.

3

4

Working with metallic thread l These threads are prone to tangling, so use shorter sections to embroider. l Treat your thread with a synthetic thread conditioner to prevent knotting. l Use a needle with a bigger eye to make it easier to thread on. l To prevent unravelling, fold the thread in half, pass the loop through the eye of the needle, then take the needle through the loop and gently pull to form a 'knot'. This places less friction on the thread.

62

sewmag.co.uk

!

Designer: Corinne Bradd

• EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL • EMBROIDERY SPECIAL •

Get started • White cotton fabric • Embroidery threads: mauve, deep pink, red, orange, dusky pink, lime green, light orange, yellow, bright blue, light blue • Embroidery hoop, 15cm • Water soluble pen

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Size 15cm diameter

Work a mandala hanging

1

Press the fabric to remove any creases. Download and print the mandala pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Tape the black and white printed design onto a window, secure the fabric on top, then trace the design using a water soluble pen. Secure the fabric in an embroidery hoop, making sure the design is positioned centrally and that the fabric is taut but not so that the motif is distorted.

Refer to the colour pattern when embroidering the design, using two strands of embroidery thread for each stitch.

Begin with the star in the centre, then work your way outwards, or start with the circles before adding the other stitches. Try working the continuous stitches first: back stitch, chain stitch and running stitch. Afterwards, move on to the rows of individual stitches: French knot, lazy daisy and star.

To neatly finish off the back of your mandala, trim a 2.5cm circular edge in the fabric around the hooped design.

Glue the remaining fabric to the back of the work.

2

3

get the

book

Find more lovely designs in Mandalas to Embroider by Carina Envoldsen-Harris. £9.99, searchpress.com

Designer: Carina Envoldsen-Harris

!

63

sewmag.co.uk

TRANSFORM A FAT QUARTER INTO A

make-up bag Whether you’re jetting off to sunnier climates or simply heading out on a day trip, a cute but practical make-up bag is a must. Designed by Susie Johns, this sweet accessory complete with waterproof lining is just the ticket for storing your lippie, concealer and a small bottle of perfume.

Get started • Patterned fabric, one fat quarter • Clear vinyl fabric, 12-gauge, 20cm x 30cm • Zip with metal teeth, 18cm

Size

6.5cm x 9cm x 9cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except for the zip.

Stitch a make-up bag

1

Cut patterned fabric, 20cm x 30cm. Place on top of the vinyl, matching the edges, and tack the layers together within the seam allowance. Place the zip face down along one short edge of the right side of the fabric, then tack in place. Fit a zipper foot and stitch down the centre of the zip tape.

2

Fold back the top edge of all three fabrics by 1cm, then topstitch 3mm from the fold. With right sides together, fold the fabric in half. Align the short edge of the fabric with the unstitched edge of the zip tape, tack and machine stitch together, then topstitch on the right side. Open the zip in order to do this.

It can be tricky to machine sew small items. If you open the zip, this will help you to sew it in, or you could backstitch by hand instead

3

Fasten the zip about halfway, turn the fabric right sides out and flatten, with the zip in the centre. At the top end, hand stitch the edges of the tape together to prevent them from splaying out. Leave a small gap between the tapes instead of pulling tight to prevent distortion.

64

4

Pin and machine stitch the seam across each end, 1.5cm from the edges. Measure and mark a rectangle, 3cm x 4.5cm, on each corner. Take the smaller measurement from the folded edge and the larger measurement from the seamed end. Cut along the lines you have drawn.

sewmag.co.uk

5

Open out each corner and flatten, so the straight edges align and the seam is central.

Pin and tack these edges together, then machine stitch. Press the seam away from the zip. Stitch each corner seam and trim with pinking shears. Turn the bag right sides out through the opening in the zip.

sew gifts

get the

book

Rustle up an array of stylish accessories with Fat Quarter: Bags and Purses by Susie Johns. ÂŁ12.99, gmcbooks.com 65

sewmag.co.uk

Subscribe Today

l

Subscribe Today

l

Subscribe Today

YES! Please start my subscription to SEW Please choose a fabric:

Paisley

1 DIRECT DEBIT

Lily Pad £19.99 every 3 issues* £84.00 for 13 issues (1 year)

2 UK CHEQUE/CREDIT CARD

2 OVERSEAS

Eur/Eire £106.00 ROW £116.00 (1 year)

RETURN TO: SEW, ROCKWOOD HOUSE, PERRYMOUNT ROAD, HAYWARDS HEATH, WEST SUSSEX, RH16 3TW SUBSCRIBER DETAILS; please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS Title Forename Surname Address

Subscribe Today

Mobile No.

I enclose a cheque made payable to Sew Please debit my account by

Visa Amex

Mastercard

Switch/Maestro (issue No.)

Card Number

Valid from

Expiry date

SIGNED:

CVV code

TODAY’S DATE:

Your order details will be processed by Aceville Publications Ltd (publishers of Sew magazine). We will use your information to fulfill your subscription and communicate other information deemed relevant in connection with this service Aceville Publications Ltd would like to contact you with information about other services and publications we provide which may be of interest. Please tick the relevant box below if you ARE HAPPY to receive such information by post [ ] phone [ ] email [ ] Aceville Publications Ltd will NOT share your personal details with anyone else.

1 INSTRUCTION TO YOUR BANK OR BUILDING SOCIETY TO PAY DIRECT DEBIT Originator’s ID No.

6 7 7 1 8 6

Name and full postal address of your Bank or Building Society

To: The Manager

bank/building society

Address

Postcode Name(s) of account holders(s) Branch sort code

Bank/Building Society Account Number

Instruction to your Bank or Building Society: Please pay Aceville Publications Ltd, Direct Debit from the account detailed in this instruction subject to the safeguards assured by the Direct Debit Guarantee. I understand that this instruction may remain with Aceville Publications Ltd and, if so, details may be passed electronically to my Bank/Building Society. Data Banks and Building Societies may not accept Direct Debit instructions for some types of accounts

Signature(s) Date

The direct debit guarantee

Your Direct Debit Guarantee will be found on your confirmation letter.

Subsc

• Be the FIRST • SEWING SOS to receive every new – the experts issue answer your questions • 2 FREE Simplicity patterns worth more • SAVE over than £180 across £13 on the the year cover price • DELIVERED straight to your door at NO EXTRA COST

Email

2

l

So Many Great Reasons to Subscribe...

• CELEBRITY sewing features, tips and tricks in every issue

Postcode Daytime No.

SEW0718F

I would like to renew my subscription with this offer (cheque/credit card)

l

“Each fabric has its own characteristics, and the recommendations on the pattern itself are worth taking note of. With very stretchy fabric, the weight of a long skirt will make up longer than the cut length, so always tack and try on the garment before sewing the seams” Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

SUBSCRIBER REWARDS

Enjoy regular member benefits as part of your subscription: • Exclusive offers • High-value competitions • Craft Store discounts • Star subscriber – coming soon...

• Plus much more!

RENEW USING CODE

SEW0718A Lily Pad

SEW0718B Paisley

To renew visit sewmag.co.uk/subscribe Have your subscriber details to hand

l

Subscribe Today

l

Subscribe Today

Subscribe Today

l

!

ER FF DO ITE LIM

ribe Today

FREE Dressmaking bundle with choice of fabric *

WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO sew MAGAZINE! SEW STYLE BOOK · 3 PATTERNS · 3M FABRIC WORTH

£50!

Make me!

Choose Paisley

Lily Pad

For this month’s subscription get your hands on our Sew Style Quick & Easy book along with 3 patterns PLUS 3M of silky blue fabric in either paisley or lily pad to make this beautiful summer maxi dress.

TUNIC · PALAZZO Look! NO-PATTERN

TWO FREE

PANTS · EASY DAY DRESS PATTERNS

JULY 2018 ISS 112 US $19.50 UK £7.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing

sewmag.co.uk/subscribe

0330 333 0042

t

nd-Ou Separates 10Sta

x

to fit and f latter

trust your free

Summer Skirt

pattern

in just 5 steps!

Quote: SEW0718A Lily Pad SEW0718B Paisley ­­Lines are open Monday-Friday 9am-5:30pm, Saturday and Bank Holidays 10am-3pm *Terms and conditions apply, see online for further details.

Mag!

Two-hour Tees in 1 m of fabric

T POCKETS · SEAMLESS

Back to Basics! PERFEC

You’ll love our

LION TOY

EASY REPAIRS · KNITS MADE

£18rt0h +of

wo y Simplicit ver o s n r e tt pa the year!

3

Issues FOR JUST

£19.99!*

Confessions of a sewing addict

Corinne discovers how easy it is to get distracted by the internet, especially with its lure of fun sewing tutorials and stitchers’ stories...

“I’m not ‘anti-internet’ by any means, I just get distracted by promises such as being able to ‘sew a fell seam in minutes’!”

I try really, really hard to stay off the internet. It’s a terrible drain on my time and the occasional fantastic idea does not outweigh the thousands of megabytes of trash that appears, regardless of how well you phrase your search terms. I’m fed up of

the numerous adverts for hair dye, online dating and weight loss... How does it know?!

I’m not ‘anti-internet’ by any means, I just get distracted by the promises of being able to ‘sew a fell seam in minutes’, ‘make 100 things out of a fat quarter’ and ‘upholster your sofa using just your kitchen tools’. Years of experience should tell me that these things just aren’t possible but still I look, in the hope that I’ll find a way of recapturing the time I’ve lost looking for ways to save time.

There are, however, several gems online that are worth savouring from time to time once you’ve finished Sally’s wedding dress or completed the three dozen shoe bags for your child’s nursery.

Tutorials are a must. Despite sewing for over 40 years now, there are still things I mess up even with my foolproof Janome

HD 2200. Mostly it’s because I’m in a hurry but, in the last year, I’ve discovered I can save so much time if I just change the foot! Honestly, the rolled hem foot is just amazing. Considering they’ve been around for about 100 years, you’d have thought I might have used one before now. With a little common sense and patience I’ve been able to turn out professional results with a manual machine on all kinds of fabric from nightmarish slippery satin to 3mm thick leather – although you can’t do a rolled hem on the latter!

Everyday lives Sewing blogs are a favourite, especially those that are written by real people with real lives that they have to fit their sewing around.

Reading that someone else out there is struggling to sew while they bring their kids up, tend to their elderly, keep hold of a partner, work, clean, walk the dog and find creative places to store their piles of fabric, makes you feel much better about yourself. Glossy, corporate-style blogs make me want to throw my laptop across the room.

Corinne is always on th e look-out for time-savin g tips Social media groups are a great way of talking to like-minded people across the country. Avoid the ‘Spotted in your local town’ groups and opt for ones that focus on your hobby. I discovered ‘Sewing in the UK’ a month or so ago and I’ve been hooked ever since. Not only do you get to see what everyone’s creating, there’s also a knowledgeable crew of avid stitchers that are ready to answer every query without judging or criticising. It’s reaffirmed my belief that sewists are lovely people.

Lastly, I can’t let the opportunity to plug The Crafts Channel on YouTube go by.

I’ve had the questionable pleasure of being the face of our demonstration videos for over a decade and, I can safely say that, I still can’t remember to look at the camera, and continue to waffle on about nothing in particular but I have still not sworn (badly) when something goes wrong. Not everything on there is stitchy related but there’s a few sewing ideas to watch with more projects still in the practice stage. If nothing else, you can try and work out the chronology of the filming by measuring how grey my hair is!

CHECK OUT MY VIDEO TUTORIALS AT YOUTUBE.COM/ THECRAFTSCHANNEL FOR MORE STITCHY INSPIRATION

I’VE JUST DISCOVERED THE BENEFITS OF A ROLLED HEM FOOT!

I REALLY COULDN’T MANAGE WITHOUT MY TRUSTY JANOME HD2200! £369, JANOME.CO.UK

THE INTERNET HAS SO MANY GREAT SEWING IDEAS AND ADVICE, I COULD SPEND ALL DAY ONLINE!

SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL 68

sewmag.co.uk

sew gifts

FOUR WAYS WITH

MAKOWER UK

Sundance

Get started • Printed cotton, fat quarters • Plain cotton: magenta, orange • Felt: orange, turquoise, navy • Elastic: white, 2cm wide, coloured cord • Bias binding • Toy stuffing • Fishnet fabric • Large buttons: round, heart • Bells • Felt wadding • Magnetic bag clasp • Zips, 13cm • Ribbon, braid and trim • Small wooden shapes 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Projects exclusive to

sew!

The Sundance collection from Makower UK is every bit as bright and colourful as you would imagine!

With a mixture of bold and dainty floral prints in zingy shades of orange, yellow, magenta and turquoise, the entire range has us longing for holidays in the Mediterranean or enjoying the sunshine in our own back gardens. Sew designer, Corinne Bradd, has been hard at work turning these fabrics into lovely projects for you to make, including a pretty child’s skirt, a nappy holder for trips out, a set of baby blocks, plus our new mascot, a friendly lion.

To find your nearest Makower UK stockist, visit makoweruk.com 69

sewmag.co.uk

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Ideal for on-the-go mums

Make a Dresden plate skirt

Stitch a changing pouch

Size: custom sized

Size: 14cm x 22.5cm closed, 22.5cm x 28.5cm open

1

Download and print the skirt panel pattern at sewmag. co.uk/templates. Measure your child’s waist and the distance from waist to desired length. Subtract 14.5cm from the length and cut plain magenta cotton this deep by twice the width to make the waistband yoke. Divide the width by three and cut this many panels from assorted printed cottons.

Fold each panel in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the bottom. Open out to create a pointed tip and press. Sew the panels right sides together, matching up the bottom points with a 5mm seam allowance to create a flared skirt.

Sew one long edge of the yoke panel to the top edge of the patchwork skirt, wrong sides together. Press and trim the seam allowance before folding right sides together and restitching to make a French seam. Press the seam to the plain side and topstitch.

Fold the skirt, right sides together, and sew up the back seam. Fold under 5mm and 3cm along the top edge and hem to make a wide channel,

2 3

4

1

leaving a 3cm gap in the seam.

Topstitch the very edge of the hem to neaten before using a safety pin to thread 2cm wide elastic through the channel. Trim the elastic to a comfortable length and stitch the ends together.

Stretch the waistband so all the elastic sits inside and topstitch the gap in the yoke.

Neaten the underside of the points by slip stitching bias binding over the raw edges. Cut several 4cm x 25cm strips of different printed fabrics, fold in half lengthwise and sew into tubes with slanted ends, leaving a 3mm gap in the centre of the seam for turning.

Turn out and press the strips, fold in half and gather into a tassel. Stitch the folds to the lower waistband and cover with a decorative button.

Cut nine 7cm x 24cm rectangles from printed cottons and sew right sides together along the long edges to make a panel. Cut felt wadding and plain magenta cotton, 24cm x 55cm each.

Place the patchwork panel right side up on the wadding and zig zag stitch around the edges.

Pin and stitch the plain cotton to the patchwork, right sides together, on the short ends only. Fold the patchwork panel along the seam of the second rectangle from each end and stitch the sides together, leaving the centre strip unsewn. Fold the lining in the same way to match the patchwork and stitch the sides together, leaving a 7cm gap in the centre of one seam.

Match the remaining unsewn centres together and stitch along the edges.

Turn the whole pouch right sides out. Use the gap in the lining seam to fit a magnetic bag clasp on the inner edges of the pouch before slip stitching closed and pushing the lining into both sides of the pouch.

5

2

3

Pretty in magenta The heart button and tassels are beautiful accessories that make this skirt really special!

70

sewmag.co.uk

4

Cut a 4cm x 24cm strip of fabric, fold in half lengthwise and sew into a tube. Turn right sides out and fold in half to make a loop.

Unpick four or five stitches in the seam at the centre of the pouch and slip the raw ends inside to make a wrist strap.

Topstitch the seam to secure the strap and continue sewing all around the edge of the pouch to neaten.

sew kids Thanks to Lillie Reynolds for helping us name our mascot!

We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of for Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Create baby blocks

Meet Lionel Stitchie!

Size: 11cm square

Size: 23cm x 32cm

1

Cut six 12cm squares of fabric for each block and decorate each one using the suggested ways below before sewing right sides together into a cube, leaving a gap in one edge.

Turn right sides out and stuff fairly firmly, pushing well into the corners. Fold in the raw edge of the gap and slip stitch closed.

Zipped panel: cut a square of fabric in half and sew the long edges to either side of the zip tape, right sides together. Turn out and press. Cut a 4cm x 12cm strip of fabric and place under the closed zip before topstitching 2mm from the seams through all layers.

Trim the square back to 12cm if necessary.

Hidden toys: cut a 12cm square of fishnet and zigzag stitch to a fabric square along three sides.

Insert small objects such as large beads, wooden animals or cotton reels before securing the remaining side.

Dangling objects: thread bells, buttons or pom-poms onto lengths of coloured cord elastic or frayed fabric strips. Fold in half and

1

secure the ends to the sides of a fabric square so that when they are all sewn together, the objects hang from the sides of the block.

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut the main body pieces from plain orange cotton, adding a 5mm seam allowance. Sew the arms, right sides together, in pairs, turn out and lightly stuff. Tack the ends of the arms closed.

Pin the body pieces right sides together. Insert the arms between the layers, before sewing all around, leaving the neck open. Clip the curves and corners before turning right sides out. Turn in 5mm around the neck and tack before stuffing.

Cut 10 pairs of both petal shapes from printed cotton and sew right sides together, leaving the flat bottom edge open. Clip the curves, turn right sides out and press. Put one large petal aside, then gather the bottom edges of the rest with running stitch.

Trim two plain orange head pieces. Tack the gathered petals around the edge of one head, ensuring the petal tips point towards the centre of the head. Pin the second head over the first and sew all around, leaving the neck

Ribbon and ricrac: Cut 12cm lengths of your chosen trim.

Lay them across a fabric square, pin, then stitch to the edges of the square only to create bands that your child can slip their hand under. Alternatively, topstitch along the whole length of the trim to secure it as a decoration instead.

2

Buttons: choose five chunky buttons in similar shades and arrange randomly on a fabric square. Use three strands of coloured embroidery thread to securely stitch the buttons in place, knotting the thread on the wrong side of the fabric.

3

Applique: cut flower shapes from coloured felt. Pin in place and oversew to the fabric square.

As an additional decoration, thread buttons onto coloured elastic and knot to make a loop.

Sew the knot to the fabric square before covering it with a felt flower.

4 71

sewmag.co.uk

open. Turn out so the petals create a mane. Stuff the head well and slip the open neck inside the tacked neck edge of the body. Slip stitch the head in place, adding more stuffing if necessary before closing up the seam.

Snip four ear pieces and sew together in pairs, leaving the bottom edge open. Fold in the raw edges and gather with small running stitch before slip stitching to the head. Cut muzzle and chest pieces from yellow printed fabric, fold under 5mm around the edges and slip stitch to the lion. Add a little stuffing under each piece before closing the seam. Cut eyes and nose from navy felt and oversew in place, adding white stitches as highlights to each eye.

Cut a 4cm x 15cm strip of yellow printed fabric and sew into a tube. Lightly stuff the leftover petal shape before gathering the gap with running stitch. Turn in 5mm at both ends of the tube. Insert the gathered end of the petal into one end and oversew in place. Use a knitting needle to lightly stuff the rest of the tube and oversew the open end to the centre back of the lion.

5

6

www.online-fabrics.co.uk

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

72

sewmag.co.uk

r u o l a e v e r o t H I t’s time H WINNER! H DRUM ROLL PLEASE! OUR WINNER IS JENNIE STONES FROM LEEDS JENNIE’S AWARDWINNING FROCK

Congratulations Jennie! What inspired you to create your pleat-perfect frock?

I bought the fabric from IKEA as I’m always on the lookout for bargains and usually have a good stock of fabric ready and waiting to be transformed. This fabric was on a ‘last chance to buy’ offer, and even though I didn’t have any immediate plans to use it, I treated myself to a generous length.

The judges were dotty about your design!

Walk us through the process.

The style of the dress is fairly simple really, but cutting it out and ensuring the spots were balanced at the seams, neckline, zip and amongst the pleats took extra care and planning.

Hilariously, I had to make it twice because after sending my photograph into the competition, I gave the dress to my grand-daughter, Sienna, who promptly spilled ketchup down the front on its first outing!

You must have been surprised when you found out you’d been shortlisted!

I was absolutely delighted, but I also felt a bit nervous to think that a team of experts would be going over it and inspecting every stitch and seam in minute detail. Although I’ve never met the judges, I’d seen them on TV and read so much about them in the magazine that I felt like I knew them and they knew me!

What was your reaction when you found out you’d been crowned the winner?

When I got the call, I was so

stunned I had to sit down to let it sink in.

I’ve had such amazing comments from my friends and family. Everyone is really pleased for me, especially Sienna who is extremely proud of ‘her’ dress!

“‘When I got the call, I was so stunned I had to sit down to let it sink in!”

JENNIE STONES, WINNER, DOTY 2018

Any words of advice for next year’s entrants?

Just go for it! There is nothing to lose and everything to gain. The different categories allow you to choose the one you’re most comfortable with, and even if you don’t win, there are free treats just for entering – you might even see a picture of your garment in the magazine. How good is that?

JUDGES STUART HILLARD, PORTIA LAWRIE, TILLY WALNES, MISS LIBBY ROSE AND VICKY GILL

So, was ‘children’s wear’ a natural category for you to enter?

I stitch all sorts, but having two grand-daughters means I tend to sew more for them these days.

I was also honoured to be asked to make my friend’s bridesmaids dresses a couple of years ago. I then made myself a suit, and a waistcoat for my son, to wear on the day.

Take us back to the day you applied...

I’ll be honest, my first thought upon entering was for the freebies! I certainly didn’t expect to win, but thought the patterns might come in handy. I even encouraged my cousin to enter as she’s just started sewing and enjoys attending weekly classes at a local centre in Leeds.

TURN OVER TO SEE THE REST OF OUR WINNERS 73

sewmag.co.uk

FREE LOVE TO SEW BOOK FOR EVERY READER! *

Here at Sew HQ we have arranged for all readers to receive a FREE* Love to Sew: Vintage-Style Gifts for the Home, worth £7.99, for every reader! This book has 26 charming, vintage style designs to make for the kitchen, bedroom and home. These elegant designs from renowned crafter Christa Rolf feature pretty vintage patterns in a wonderful shabby-chic style. Choose from pillows, quilts, mug rugs, bunting and a host of other delightful decorations.

PLUS, GREAT SAVINGS ON THESE BOOKS!

FREE* BOOK! *JUST PAY £4.99 POSTAGE

£13.99

£8.99

RRP £14.99

£11.99

£16.99

RRP £12.99

%

HOW TO ORDER

RRP £11.99

RRP £9.99

£9.99

£6.99

RRP £17.99

£10.99

£8.99

RRP £9.99

£11.99

RRP £10.99

RRP £7.99

RRP £12.99

Simply complete the coupon and either fill in your credit card details OR send a cheque or postal order for the correct amount (made payable to ‘Search Press Ltd’) to Search Press Ltd, Wellwood, North Farm Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN2 3DR.

Title Sewing Lampshades

Offer Price Quantity 1 FREE £14.99 £13.99

Half Yard Vintage

£9.99

Love to Sew: Vintage-Style Gifts for the

RRP £7.99

Total £0.00

MY DETAILS ARE: please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS Title

Initial

Surname

Address

£8.99

Postcode

Sew Baby

£9.99

£8.99

Half Yard Bag & Purses

£11.99

£10.99

The Joy of Jelly Rolls

£12.99

£11.99

Email

Layered and Stitched Pictures

£17.99

£16.99

£

Love to Sew: Lagom-Style

£7.99

£6.99

Please charge my

Sew Cute Creatures

£10.99

£9.99

CARD NUMBER

Hoop Art

£12.99

£11.99

sew

Contact tel no.

I enclose a cheque made payable to ‘Search Press Ltd’

EXPIRY DATE

Postage TOTAL

*£4.99 £

SIGNED :

Visa

Mastercard

Switch/Maestro (Issue No.)

SECURITY NUMBER (on back of card)

TODAY’S DATE:

REF: SEWJULY

Terms and conditions: *Offer available until 14th July 2018. FREE books can only be claimed by post. Orders must be submitted with a completed coupon and either with credit card details or a cheque or postal order for the correct amount to cover postage. Only one FREE* copy of Love To Sew: Vintage-Style Gifts for the Home per reader and multiple applications will not be accepted. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Offer subject to availability. In the event of a title being unavailable, we reserve the right to send an alternative title. We can only provide refunds for damaged or faulty goods. Open to UK residents only. Please allow 28 days for delivery. DATA PROTECTION: Your details will be processed by Search Press / Aceville Publications Ltd. (publishers of Sew magazine) in full accordance with data protection legislation. Search Press / Aceville Publications Ltd (publishers of Sew magazine), and sister companies may wish to contact you with information of other services and publications we provide which may be of interest. Please tick here if you DO wish to receive such information by Post q Phone q Email q SMS q . From time to time Search Press / Aceville Publications Ltd (publishers Sew magazine) will share details with other reputable companies which provide products and services that may be of interest to you. Please tick here if you DO wish to receive such information by Post q Phone q Email q SMS q .

WE NEW BS ITE

On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, Needlecord, Jersey and Lantana.

‘Indie’ dressmaking and crafting patterns - Hot Patterns, Colette, Serendipity Studio, Sewaholic, Gather, By Hand, Papercut Christine Haynes, Cashmerette, Rosie & Me, and more ...

www.sewbox.co.uk 25% discount for Sew readers

The greatest selection of true vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses, to 1970s jumpsuits.

World Wide Shipping - Credit Cards Welcome

www.sovintagepatterns.com

Find your local participating store by visiting: www.sewmag.co.uk/local-sewing-shops 77

sewmag.co.uk

Get prepped for sunshine days with our

Easy Kids Projects

Summer is here! It’s time to raid your scrap stash and delve into this trio of simple makes by Corinne Bradd, exlusively designed with children in mind. From a handy reversible sunhat to a squishy patchwork ball, there’s plenty here to keep you busy – and each project is quick and easy enough to get any budding stitchers involved, too.

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get started • Cotton, four co-ordinating prints • Fusible interfacing

Outer fabric brim: cut four Inner fabric brim: cut four Interfacing brim: cut four

Make your own sunhat

1

Download the templates from sewmag.co.uk/ templates and cut out the pattern pieces according to the cutting guide. Fuse the interfacing

to the centre reverse of the inner fabric pieces. Stitch the four inner pieces, right sides together, on the straight edges to make a ring.

Sew the four outer pieces together in the same way.

Press seams to one side and topstitch 3mm from the line of stitching. Working with right sides together, place one ring on top of the other, positioning the seams of the top piece in between the seams of the bottom.

2

3

Stitch the rings together around the outside. Turn right sides out and press the seam. Topstitch the outside of the ring, 5mm from the edge. Sew the crown pieces together, right sides facing, and topstitch the seams as before. Put the inner crown section to one side. Pin the brim of the hat around the bottom edge of the crown, with outer sides together.

78

sewmag.co.uk

4

Position the seams of the crown in between the seams of the brim and ease the fabric of the crown to fit, if necessary. Stitch the pieces together and push the crown inside out. Take the remaining crown and fold up 5mm along the bottom edge.

Slip the crown over the hat and slipstitch in place, covering the raw edges of the seam just sewn. Press to finish.

!

Cutting guide

sew

Get started

free template download

• Patterned fabrics, assorted • Plain pink fabric, 20cm square • Fibrefill wadding

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Cutting guide

Cut eight 12cm hexagons and six 3.5cm squares from paper 5mm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.

SHAKE, RATTLE & ROLL

Sew a patchwork ball

1

Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates and cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Prepare four hexagons from turquoise print fabric and four from yellow print, then six 3.5cm squares from plain pink. Tack the material for each shape onto the paper.

Stitch the individual hexagons and squares together in a snowflake shape, attaching right sides together. Sew each of the snowflake's arms together to create the ball, stitching the final two hexagons on five sides only to leave a gap for turning.

Remove the tacking stitches and paper templates. Turn the ball right sides out and stuff it firmly with wadding. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch the join so the ball is firmly closed.

To add more interest for baby, why not add a rattle to your creation? They’re easy to incorporate: just tuck one into the middle of the ball before you finish stuffing it.

Alternatively, dried rice or pasta in a container will make a thrifty music-maker.

2 3

Get started • Assorted coloured felt, 24cm square • Cotton print fabric • Embroidery thread • Zip, 15cm • Ribbon or ric-rac • Coloured buttons

Sew your own felt purse

1 sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Download the template from sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut one face shape from flesh-coloured felt, plus a full back piece and supplementary hair piece in your chosen colour.

Snip coloured felt, 2cm x 3cm, and sew across each end of the zip to neaten.

Pin and tack the small hair piece to the top of the face shape. Oversew the top of the layered felt pieces to one edge of the zip in matching thread. Stitch the coloured back piece of the purse to the other

2

!

79

sewmag.co.uk

edge, ensuring the shapes match at each end. Trim the felt zip ends to the edges of the face pieces if necessary.

Decorate the front of the purse by stitching a ribbon head band to the hair shape below the zip. Attach cheeks, a mouth and a pair of eyes using coloured felt. Add detail using two strands of embroidery thread.

Cut two purse pieces from printed cotton and turn in 5mm along the straight edge of each. Flip the felt purse and oversew the folded edges of the cotton to the underside of the zip. Folding the purse in half, pin and stitch the cotton lining pieces, right sides together. Open the zip and push the lining through to prevent it getting caught.

Pin the felt purse pieces together, wrong sides facing.

Oversew around the edges with two strands of embroidery thread to match the hair colour.

Stitch or glue a decorative button to the head band. Push the lining back inside the purse and zip closed.

3

4 5

Download your digital patterns in

4 EASY STEPS! Take it easy with our stylish loungewear

FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP

1

...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

NEXT, SEARCH FOR A GARMENT

2

...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

NO-PATTERN DRESSING GOWN DOWNLOAD THE TEMPLATE

3

PYJAMA BOTTOMS

Stitch a made-to-measure floral print wrap.

Make these drawstring trousers, which double as bedtime or smart casual wear.

LOUNGEWEAR

FLORA PYJAMA SET

Embellish a top to relax in, plus a bag to keep it safe.

Create pretty sleep shorts, then customise a vest to match.

...by pressing the ‘click here’ button, under the main image.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

4

...by right clicking to save to your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to page!)

PRINT OUT & KEEP

Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 112 July 2018

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print

1

2

4

3

5

11

12

EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n e en o r betw Gathe

BACK FACING Cut one pair

6

8

7

9

10

13

14

15

FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair

FRONT FACING fold Cut one on

Cut one pair for back panels

BACK BODICE Cut one pair

Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels

FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold

‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready in order to join the sheets!

20

21

centre front

19

22

16

17

Lorem ipsum

18

WAISTBAND Cut one only

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | WWW.SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

80

sewmag.co.uk

sew gifts

Get started

SNIP AND STITCH FELT INTO A

daisy pincushion

• Wool felt: light blue and white, 22.5cm x 55cm of each, yellow, 10cm square • Stuffing • Fabric glue

Sizes 12.5cm square

Cutting Guide Pincushion: cut two 12.5cm squares from light blue felt Petals: cut two from white felt Centre: cut two from yellow felt

We all know the frustration of misplacing pins or needles, then having to gingerly tiptoe around to find them. Save yourself the hassle with this simple pincushion design by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier. The cheery colours are sure to brighten up your sewing box, plus if you use unsoaped, fine steel wool for the stuffing, it will even sharpen your pins each time you insert or remove them!

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

get the

book

Discover 20 fresh Scandi-inspired designs in Lagom-Style Accessories £7.99, seachpress.com

Make a tiny pillow

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide. Take one square of blue felt

and glue the first set of daisy petals and centre to the middle, taking care not to apply glue around the edges of the petals.

Using white thread, stitch straight lines down the middle of each individual petal. Repeat

2

81

with the second daisy shape, staggering the petals. Sew the second daisy centre onto the flower using yellow thread. Take the other felt square and stitch around the perimeter to join the two together, leaving a small gap.

sewmag.co.uk

3

Cut across the corners to reduce bulk and turn the cushion right sides out through the gap. Stuff generously then slip-stitch the gap closed.

Get started • • • •

COMBINE PRINTED AND PLAIN FABRICS TO CREATE A

Printed fabric, 30cm x 43cm Plain fabric, 25cm x 66cm Elastic, 70cm (5mm wide) Safety pin

Cutting guide

plastic bag holder

Printed fabric: cut one 25cm x 43cm rectangle and one 4cm x 40cm rectangle Plain fabric: cut one 20cm x 43cm rectangle, one 3cm x 40cm rectangle, and one 8cm x 23cm strip 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

This handy project offers the perfect solution to plastic bag storage. The holder's clever design means it can hang on the back of any door for convenient access. You'll also be working with elastic, which is a fun and useful skill to learn, as well as mastering careful hemming and stitching.

Stitch a bag holder

1

Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pin the two larger rectangles right sides together and stitch along the 43cm edge. Press a 1cm hem along the 43cm edges on both the plain and printed fabrics, and sew. Pin the smaller plain rectangle to the reverse of the larger plain rectangle along the width, 10cm up from the hem. Stitch at the top and at the bottom to make a channel for the elastic.

2

Make a channel with the printed rectangles as before, pressing a 1cm hem along beforehand, and sewing the smaller strip 1cm down from the top edge.

Fold the entire piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, then stitch the raw edges to create a tube. Attach a safety pin to one end of a 35cm length of elastic, insert through the channel at the bottom, then pull to gather and tie in a knot. Repeat for the top channel.

3

Fold the 8cm x 23cm handle strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, then stitch down the length and across one end. Turn right sides out and fold in half, bringing the

82

sewmag.co.uk

two short edges together and keeping the stitched end towards the front. Pin at the top back of the bag holder on the inside, covering the exposed elastic knot, then stitch in place.

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!

4

NEON GLOW

If you want to add a zesty punch to your projects, we have four neon habby bundles up for grabs! Each contains a Gütermann’s neon thread kit worth £10.95, plus satin ribbon worth £15 per 20m reel. For stockists, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk and berisfords@stockistenquiries.co.uk

to win!

We have four neon bundles to give away.

To enter, tick NEON

Worth

£160!

BUMPER BOOKS It’s lucky dip time! Freshen up your bookshelf with the very latest sewing titles – from dressmaking guides to embroidery step-by-steps and quilting, there’s something for everyone. You’re bound to stumble across a gem, or step out of your comfort zone and learn a brand-new technique.

QUILT TICKETS

Europe’s leading patchwork and quilting show is back! The Festival of Quilts is packed with more than 300 exhibitors offering essential supplies, professionally curated galleries of quilts, plus workshops, talks and much more. The event takes place from 9th-12th August 2018, and more information can be found at thefestivalofquilts.co.uk

We have one surprise book stash worth £150 to give away. To enter, tick BOOKS

We have five pairs of tickets to give away. To enter, tick QUILTS

Win with

HERE’S THIS MONTH’S STITCHY PRIZES! Worth

£131!

This selection of Hemline treats will set you up for sewing success. One lucky winner will receive an extra-deep thread organiser, a sewing machine needle threader, a mini seam fix, plus a handy pack of thimbles.

For stockists, visit groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have one Hemline pack to give away.

To enter, tick HEMLINE

11

INTO THE BLUE

to win!

With beach holidays on the horizon, now’s the perfect time to stitch yourself a brand-new cossie. Flo-Jo Fabrics offers two patterns to see you through the season: Belle, a vintagestyle design and for the man in your life there’s Travis, a classic boxer style that can be made aqua-friendly when created in spandex.

Available at flo-jofabrics.co.uk We have five Belle and six Travis patterns to give away. To enter, tick FLO-JO

Just tick the boxes to win!

To enter our giveaways, just tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry to us no later than 12.07.2018. Mark your envelope: Sew July Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

SILKY SKINCARE After a long day at the sewing machine, you deserve to pamper yourself with Martha Hill’s deluxe skincare range. Each soothing cream is designed to soften and protect your skin with a rich blend of natural plant oils. See beautynaturals.com We have three skincare sets to give away. To enter, tick MARTHA

Worth

£105!

NEON

QUILTS

FLO-JO

BOOKS

HEMLINE

MARTHA

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other Name Address Postcode Daytime phone Mobile Email Date of birth Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk

83

sewmag.co.uk

!

SEWING STASH

who does what...

Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Melissa Hyland melissa@aceville.co.uk 01206 505423 Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton, Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Kate, BMA, Colette, Nevs, Anastsia, Nevs, Courtney, MOT Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300

your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to readyto-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Find this shirred maxi dress pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk

Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS HIGH BUST FULL BUST

Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys.

All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

84

sewmag.co.uk

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitting garment?

“Chiffon has a lovely drape that suits blouses and dresses. Use a new sharp needle, plus a straight stitch plate to prevent the fabric being sucked down into the hole.”

CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes.

Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“To add shirring, wind some shirring elastic onto a bobbin by hand, then insert it into your machine as you would a bobbin filled with thread. Thread the machine with ordinary thread, increase the stitch length then work one row of shirring. Stretch out and work a second row using the machine foot or a quilting guide as a spacer in between. When you have enough rows, adjust the fit by pulling up the elastic as you would with gathering.”

MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

PLACING YOUR PIECES

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching so you can adjust if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first.

This means that you will know how the material reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press it with an iron using a suitable heat setting. After, lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

READING A PATTERN

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

WARP

Now We Are Really Spoiling You – Persephone silk chiffon, £15 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

WEFT

85

sewmag.co.uk

directory • FABRICS • SEWING MACHINES • HABERDASHERY • PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com

Join in the fun!

Go online to find your local store on our map!

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960

If you would like to advertise on these pages, please call Anna on 01206 505392 or Hannah on 01206 505495

BIRMINGHAM

1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices!

Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk

Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

www.sewmag.co.uk

sew BOOKS

the BOOKS we’re loving...

Find your next project with these inspirational reads

Coco Chanel

by Susan Goldman Rubin There are few more iconic individuals in the fashion world than Coco Chanel, and this book offers a fascinating look into her life, including her classic designs and how she got into this competitive industry.

From her famous quilted bags to the little black dress, there is plenty of inspiration to be had – it’s a genuinely fascinating summer read.

Abrams Books, £13.99, abramsbooks.com

Badass Babe Workbook

by Julie Van Grol Get inspired and unleash your creativity with the Badass Babe Workbook. Showcasing the accomplishments of a wide array of artists, writers, scientists and more, this book will encourage you to find your voice and feel energised within your creative endeavours. With a mixture of art activities and engaging writing exercises, there really is something for everyone to enjoy.

Quarto Knows, £14.99, quartoknows.com

18th Century Fashion in Detail

Sewing School Quilts

by Amie Petronis Plumley and Andria Lisle

Getting children into sewing can be extremely rewarding, and gives little hands a hobby they can enjoy for many years to come.

Sewing School Quilts is aimed at kids aged 8 to 12 and includes fun makes, such as a pet bed, a journal cover and a quilt, using various techniques for both hand and machine sewing. You might find it isn’t just the little ones wanting to get involved...

Storey Books, £14.99, amazon.co.uk

Fat Quarter Bags and Purses

by Susie Johns

If you are looking for stashbusting projects this month, this book written by Sew’s very own Susie Johns is the perfect read for you! Featuring fantastic makes, such as purses, beach bags, caddies and more, you’ll find plenty to keep yourself entertained while using up your leftover fabric scraps – and you’ll save a few pennies while you’re at it, too!

GMC Publications, £12.99, thegmcgroup.com

by Susan North

Indigo: Dye It, Make It!

The Victoria and Albert Museum showcases an extensive array of gorgeous historical garments – and this stunningly illustrated book brings many of them to life.

Inside, intricate and elaborate designs and materials are shown in detail, revealing both the makers and the processes involved in creating them. This is the perfect coffee table book for those interested in the history of fashion.

Thames and Hudson, £24.95, thamesandhudson.com

Breathe new life into your fabrics with techniques such as tie-dyeing, dip-dying and batik, all using this beautiful, natural colour. Once you have mastered the basics, there are plenty of simple and beautiful step-by-step projects to help you create unique clothes, such as T-shirts and shawls, and modern homeware items, like wall hangings.

Ryland Peters, £14.99 rylandpeters.com

by Nicola Gouldsmith

Turn to p64 for a sneak peek project!

87

sewmag.co.uk

Subscribe today!

3 issues for only £12.99 10

New! MANDALA HOOPS · PATCHWORK TOYS ·

*

KIDS’ SUNHAT INSIDE !

JULY 2018 ISS 112 £7.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewi ng

Mag!

Stand-Out Separates PALAZZO PAN

x

TS · SPEEDY TUNIC + MORE!

Summer Skirt

trust your free

in 5 easy steps!

2

pattern

FREE

PATTERNS with every issue

Wear & Wow! Two-Hour Dress

Back to Basics! PERFEC T

You’ll love our

LION TOY

POCKETS · SEAMLESS REPAIRS · KNITS MAD E EASY

• Great FREE delivery straight to your door before it hits the shops • Over 400 sewing projects a year • Recieve a free pattern every issue • £100+ of FREE gifts

Easy ways to subscribe

Visit: www.sewmag.co.uk/SEW0718H or call: 0330 3330042 QUOTE: SEW0718H * Terms and conditions apply, see online for further details - PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE

2 FREE

Next month in

patterns inside!

Sizes 6-20

the FEMME COLLECTION Ultra-chic looks for every occasion

SEW WITH LACE! * Features subject to change

BELLE OF THE BALL l Four fab frocks l Go midi or mini

YOU’LL LOVE OUR AUGUST ISSUE!

l Master perfect darts

with Tilly Walnes

l Delve into the colourful

world of Frida Kahlo

TOP OF THE CLASS

l Plus, Sew Saturday is back

– and it’s better than ever!

l Capped sleeves

l Pleats that’ll please!

MAKE A NOTE! OUR AUGUST ISSUE IS ON SALE JUNE 28th 2018 89

sewmag.co.uk

It’s the itsy bitsy teenie weenie polka dot bikini! Top, £28; bottoms, £18, debenhams.com

Feel oh-so refreshed in this lemon bandeau top, £19.95, whitestuff.com

It’s a knock out in these summer punch bottoms! £15, whitestuff.com

STYLE STORY

THE BIKINI Stay on trend with this 80s style swimwear, £20, tesco.com

Summer is here and with it is swim season!

As our holidays edge ever closer, here at Sew HQ we are already thinking about what bikinis we’ll be sporting when it comes to relaxing poolside or sunbathing on the great British coastlines, provided it isn’t raining, of course. Making your own bikini is always more fun than buying a high-street one, as Delia Adey, founder of Bristol shop Flo-Jo Fabrics, says: “The beauty of making a bikini yourself is that you can make it to fit and flatter your body shape. When the fit is right, you’ll feel confident whatever your shape!”

Although the majority of us will happily bathe in a two-piece, the evolution of this iconic garment is quite outstanding (and very scandalous).

MAKE YOUR OWN The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree with swimwear fashion, as many designers take inspiration from 1950s style swimwear.

Take Flo-Jo Fabrics: their vintage-inspired Belle swimming costume is a fashionable alternative for a bikini – or, simply add a slit in the middle to create a flattering tankini.

As Delia explains, “we try to combine the best features from the 50s to fit the contemporary woman”.

FROM SHRINKING SWIMSUITS TO BOND GIRL TWO-PIECES, THE BIKINI IS AN ICONIC STAPLE PIECE SMALL WORLD

Back in 1913, Carl Janzten introduced a twopiece bathing costume to enhance female athletes’ performance in the Olympics. It was really just a tight-fitting shorts and T-shirt combo, but that was enough to cause a stir.

Fast-forward to the 1930s and 40s, and women’s swimwear shrank stateside as fabric was rationed during World War II – meaning hems were shortened and skirts eliminated!

The bikini continued to get smaller with the help of Parisians: Jacques Heim and Louis Réard. July 5th 1947 is the official birth-date of this iconic garment, with engineer, Réard, introducing a suit made from just 30 inches of fabric and calling it the ‘bikini’ after Bikini Atoll – the Pacific Ocean site famous for hosting the first atomic bomb test.

In 1960, the bikini had become officially mainstream. It made its popular culture debut in the Bryan Hyland hit single ‘Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini’ and, also, in the iconic Dr No. scene which sees Ursula Andress dramatically emerging from the sea wearing a belted white ensemble.

printed suits on our wish lists, but other fruits are equally as on-trend, including watermelons, pineapples, and strawberries.

Why not bring your existing bikinis up-to-date by stitching bite-sized fruit motifs on them?

These vintage-style scissors are excellent for making your bikini, £4.95, rexlondon.com

Stand out from the crowd with a vintage cossie, £10, flo-jofabrics.co.uk

HERE COMES THE SUN

In 2018 it’s all about taking inspiration from the past and making it fresh. Like mom jeans and printed co-ords straight from your teenage wardrobe, sporty bikinis have made a huge comeback in recent years. High-waisted bottoms have been around for a while, thanks to their figure-flattering style, but pair with a sporty top and you’re straight out of the 80s!

The Sew team already have a few cherry90

sewmag.co.uk

Use code SewSwim18 for 20% off swimwear fabric and fold-over elastics at flo-jofabrics.co.uk from 1st June to 31st July