inCREDIBLE PLACES:
Words by Steven Yates Photos by Steven & Laura Yates
120 • DO IT NOW Magazine October | November 2012
Cologne
The Magic of a White Christmas Most South Africans dream of somehow, someday replicating the tranquil and beautiful pictures thrust upon us every December by just about every movie and sitcom - that of a white Christmas. So used to the fantastic clear blue skys and hot weather of the southern hemisphere, the elusive white Christmas more often than not seems like a far off dream to many of us. Laura and I found - during our sojourn to the UK - that simply heading north is not always good enough to experience the magic of Bing Crosby’s words, “The weather outside is frightful, the fire is so delightful, the lights are turned way down low. Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.” As global warming continues to play with our emotions and expectations, Laura and I decided that we might not have snow on the actual day, so the best way to experience the white Christmas spirit was to head to the world-famous German Christmas markets. Choosing your location for such a trip is extremely important as most of the German cities offer Christmas markets with a variety of events from Christmas concerts, to winter wonderlands and culinary festivals. We decided to try Cologne for a few specific reasons. Handcrafted Christmas decorations where high on our list to kick-start our non-existent Christmas tree. The medieval Christmas market and floating Christmas market also sounded fun, and of course a Christmas concert never hurts. We started our white Christmas experience in splendid fashion by attending the market in the cathedral square. We got to the market early, the air was icy cold and the sparkling Christmas lights illuminated the grey morning. This might sound depressing, but it was not and fitted perfectly into the spirit of our adventure. We drank steaming hot chocolate from a boot-shaped mug decorated with hand-painted reindeer. With hands and tummies warm and content we started filling up on the massive selection of German Christmas treats. Starting with roasted sugared nuts, we moved on to gingerbread and Christmas cookies, and only stopped eating when one of the decoration artisans did not allow food into their workshop. The variety of decorations on display was incredible and the intricately-carved, hand-painted wood was mesmerising, and Laura and I spent most of the day trying to limit our selections. Laura’s favourite decoration was a natural wood with a white- and gold-edged cherub angel climbing up a string, with presents and bells hanging off the base. My favourite was a wooden carriage, painted in a variety of bright colours with Santa driving a load bay filled with exciting looking presents. Finally with our top 20 decorations in hand we left the workshop in search of some more of the Christmas fare on offer. Our first stop was to take our boot-shaped mugs to the Glühwein stand, for a refill with more oomph than the morning's hot chocolate. Never before have I had such wonderful Glühwein! To this we added some potato pancakes with apple sauce (kartoffelpuffer) and German noodles (spätzle) covered in cheese. We then enjoyed our bounty while absorbing the view of Germany’s most visited landmark and largest façade of any church in the world - The Kölner Dom. After lunch we picked up a refill of Glühwein and strolled through the market purchasing more trinkets, all the while marvelling at the incredible beauty of it all.
www.doitnow.co.za | Lifestyle • 121
Enjoying a Glühwein
As the sun sank and darkness began to fall, the lights of the market and those of the largest Christmas tree in the Rhinelands dominated the square, which took on a Christmas carnival feel as the musical voices of the choir performing before the cathedral filled the air. More delicious Glühwein and a variety of tasty German sausages accompanied by pan roasted potato (bratkartoffeln) mellowed us into a long evening of festivity, as the temperature slowly fell. The next morning was a marvel as small, white flakes of powder drifted through the city. The snow was not heavy enough to settle but the effect on the city was wonderful, nowhere more than the medieval market that was our first point of call. Fundamentally different from the cathedral market, our morning started with warm cider and calvados, rather than hot chocolate. Breakfast was warm home-made bread filled with grilled wild boar. The wares on sale were less focussed on decorations and more on the wrapping up of the individual. Beautifully knitted jerseys and mittens competed for our attention, along with cuddly, leather slippers painted with Christmas trees and reindeer. The feel of the market was quite different too; children played with toys in the winding isles and adults played knight while shooting Santa with an old longbow and arrow, all to the sights and sounds of jugglers, jesters and medieval musicians entertaining us. Next we visited the floating market. Moored on the banks of the Rhine, alongside the old quarter, is the MS Wappen von Mainz, an old KD river boat. The market consumes the four levels of the boat, and the interesting stalls' focus is on antiques, where you are sure to find something a little different and special. More food and some Glühwein, and finally back to the cathedral for some more music and twinkling Christmas lights. Over the next few days we visited all of the markets and enjoyed more falling snow, which created magical winter wonderlands in its wake. We added to our growing collection of decorations, the most unique was a blown glass bowl that is hand-painted with a white Christmas landscape. The bowl is hung from the tree with a light inside illuminating the painted scene with startling effect. Both Laura and I were sad that our magical white Christmas had to come to an end - we will definitely return. So if you are still undecided about where to go this Christmas, why not consider Cologne? Was für eine wunderbare welt! •
122 • DO IT NOW Magazine October | November 2012
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• White Christmas in London is defined as 'one flake of snow falling on Buckingham Palace on December 25th'. This last happened in 2010, although one has to go back as far as 1895 to find the last Christmas-card blanket of snow covering the city on Christmas morning. • Arguably, the top five Christmas market destinations in Germany are: Munich - Known for its wood carvings, glass crystal and free daily Christmas concerts. Dresden - The oldest Christmas market in Germany (first held in 1434), famous for its 45-foot carousel, life-size angles and the world’s largest Christmas cake. Nuremburg - Renowned for its opening ceremony and the 180 traditionally decorated huts. Berlin - Home to 60 different Christmas markets, including the historic Christmas market at Gendarmenmarkt. Cologne - There are seven Christmas markets throughout the city centre and free Christmas concerts take place under the shade of the cathedral. Here you will also find the largest Christmas tree in the region, and working decoration artisans. • Cologne’s floating Christmas market is the only floating Christmas market in Europe. • Useful links: http://gogermany.about.com/ od/eventsandfestivals/tp/ bestchristmasmarketsgermany.htm http://www.germany-christmas-market.org. uk/cologne_christmas_market.php
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