Danube Magazine 2016 by Donau Niederösterreich

magazine 2016

NATURE, CULTURE & RIVERSIDE REVERIE

FUSION OF THE CENTURIES

DANUBE EXPERIENCES: Apps for hikers and other Danube travelers // DANUBE DELIGHTS: Radically regional // DANUBE CULTURE: Cultural roller-coaster from imperial to contemporary DANUBE LIFE: Tips and dates // DANUBE PACKAGES: Most recommended

We‘ll be staying a little longer. In Lower Austria‘s Bon Vivant Rooms

Photos: Michael Liebert, Roman Seidl, Österreich Werbung

Spitz an der Donau

The greatest thing about a great day is if it ends with a relaxing evening. At Lower Austrian hosts with Bon Vivant rooms (Genießerzimmer), you can look forward to the friendliest hospitality and a very special atmosphere. Whether you are in the city or out in the country, in a romantic hotel, a venerable castle or an idyllic winery – extra-special holidays are yours to enjoy throughout Lower Austria! Bon Vivant Host Michaela Schachner Hotel Krone und Kaiserhof Maria Taferl

Bon Vivant Host Barbara Holzapfel Prandtauerhof Joching-Wachau

Bon Vivant Host Birgit Salomon Gut Oberstockstall Kirchberg am Wagram

Information and packages: Phone: +43/2742/9000 9000 www.lower-austria.info

Hiking on the Wachau World Heritage Trail with magniﬁcent view of Dürnstein.

// Fresh ideas with tradition People think they know the Danube in Austria, the towns and sights along its banks. But no matter how often you drive, cycle or hike along the Danube, no matter how often you travel on it in a ship, you can always discover something new. It may be something genuinely and truly new – buildings and attractions that have sprung up in recent years – or “the new in the old.” The locals along the Danube in Austria have always had a magic touch for taking the heritage of this landscape shaped over millennia by nature and man and linking it to the needs and interests of the present. So, when today’s Danube travelers set off on a spiritual trek along the river to ancient places imbued with special energy, they are fully in step with the current zeitgeist of deceleration while also sharing in ancient tradition with pilgrims and other seekers of meaning. And when Cuban dancers present a fusion of ballet and street dance in the former horse stables of the imperial family, their performance is very much in keeping with a river region that understands how to draw on fresh ideas to imbue its cultural treasures with new splendor. Fritz Gillinger Editor-in-Chief of DANUBE Magazine

Precious and delectable discoveries along the Danube in Upper Austria.

The Vienna Spanish Riding School in St. Michael’s Wing of Hofburg Palace is the oldest riding school in the world.

CONTENTS Cover photo: Grafenegg Festival I © Alexander Haiden

04 ENCOUNTERS Three Austrian provinces, one river 10 TRAVELS ALONG THE DANUBE Sightseeing in motion 14 DANUBE DELIGHTS Radically regional 16 DANUBE CULTURE From imperial to contemporary 20 POINTS OF DEPARTURE Tips and dates

COMPLETE INFORMATION ON THE DANUBE IN AUSTRIA Danube in Upper Austria WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH Lindengasse 9, A-4040 Linz, Austria T +43 732 7277-800 info@donauregion.at www.donauregion.at/en Danube in Lower Austria Donau Niederösterreich Tourismus GmbH Schlossgasse 3, A-3620 Spitz/Donau, Austria T +43 2713 30060-60 urlaub@donau.com www.donau.com/en

22 PACKAGES Just book and take off

Danube Competence Center danube.travel

ARGE Route of Emperors and Kings strassederkaiserundkoenige.at

Vienna Tourist Board Tourist-Info Albertinaplatz/Maysedergasse, A-1010 Vienna, Austria T +43 1 24 555 info@vienna.info www.vienna.info

PUBLICATION INFORMATION/DISCLAIMER: Responsible for content: ARGE Donau Österreich, Lindengasse 9, A-4040 Linz, Austria, T +43 732 7277-800, www.donau-oesterreich.at | Project Management: Petra Riffert | Editing & Production: LWmedia, Ringstrasse 44/1, A-3500 Krems, Austria. T +43 2732 82000, www.lwmedia.at. Management: Erwin Goldfuss | Editor-in-Chief: Fritz Gillinger | Art Director: Martin Bauer | Graphics: Christian Eckart | Copy: Fritz Gillinger, Anita Ericson, Barbara Hutter, Mella Waldstein | Photos: LWmedia Archive/Shutterstock, zVg, Alexander Haiden, WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Peter Podpera, Niederösterreich-Werbung/Robert Herbst. WienTourismus/Lois Lammerhuber, WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Hochhauser, Stift Göttweig/Markus Haslinger, WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud, Kromus/PID, Best of Wachau/Rita Newman, Donau Niederösterreich/Steve Haider, Donau Niederösterreich/Klaus Engelmayer, Jürgen Skarwan, Rita Newmann, Motto am Fluss/Zeißl, Marina Wien Restaurant/Felicitas Matern, WienTourismus/Christian Stemper, Grafenegg/Klaus Vyhnalek, Burg Clam/www.foto-schadauer.com, Ars Electronica/Florian Voggeneder, Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary Collection Vienna/Jens Ziehe 2015, LinzTourismus/Philipp Greindl, Schloss Hof/Jutta Kirchner, LinzTourismus/Andreas Röbl, Helmut Lackinger/Klangraum Krems Minoritenkirche, WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Erber, WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Weissenbrunner, BRANDNER Schiffahrt, ARGE Donau/Weissenbrunner, LW/Gerald Lechner, Donaukanaltreiben/deladap, Donau Niederösterreich/Rita Newman, Rock in Vienna/Florian Matzhold, WienTourismus/Karl Thomas, Stadtgemeinde Tulln. As of: November 2015. All information is provided with no guarantee of completeness and accuracy. Subject to errors and changes.

www.donau-oesterreich.at

WHERE THE DANUBE LEANS INTO THE CURVE The Schlögener Schlinge is one of the most famous meanders a European river takes. The Danube describes nearly a 360 degree curve around its banks here, creating a landscape that has always captivated people. Hikers enjoy a superb view of this spot from the Danube Trail (Donausteig). This long-distance hiking trail runs along the mighty river a total of 450 km from Passau to Grein. Hikers can look forward not only to seven summits and 41 loop trails shooting off from the main one for exploring the hinterland but also about 50 hospitable Danube Trail taverns and inns. Anyone keen on experiencing the region with special intensity should come on 17 April 2016. That is the date the cycling season on the Danube Cycle Path opens. Cyclists can revel in a car-free Danube Valley between Passau und Schlögen. It is a birthday present of sorts for the “25th Anniversary of Danube Upper Austria” to be celebrated in 2016. www.donauregion.at/en

Donauschlinge

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upper austria // ENCOUNTERS

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A PLACE OF QUIET CONTEMPLATION FOR CENTURIES Göttweig Abbey has perched on its hilltop on the south bank of the Danube for some 900 years. The words “Pax – Friede” stand over the entrance to the Benedictine monastery, wishing peace to everyone who arrives. This message is also directed today at the thousands of annual visitors. Places of quiet contemplation are more coveted nowadays than ever before. The abbey with the proverbial Benedictine hospitality is a favorite excursion destination for travelers on cruise ships berthing in Krems. People who know this route well are convinced that Göttweig Abbey is something very special in the series of impressive excursion destinations along the Danube. This conviction may also stem from there being no building on shore that remains visible to ship passengers as long as this abbey does … www.donau.com/en

Stift Göttweig

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lower austria // ENCOUNTERS

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Schloss Schรถnbrunn

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vienna // ENCOUNTERS

Schönbrunn Palace was once the summer residence of the imperial family. Today it is on the UNESCO World Heritage list and Austria’s mostvisited sight. Palace and gardens form a gesamtkunstwerk, a synthesis of the arts with a special appeal to every generation. Visitors are welcome to view the originally furnished residential and representational rooms of the imperial family and see where Emperor Franz Joseph I was born on 18 August 1830 (the centenary of his death is celebrated in 2016). They can also explore the maze and labyrinth in the palace garden or visit the children’s museum. The gardens are also a popular place for jogging or taking a stroll. The Vienna Philharmonic Summer Night Concert in the palace park is a legend in its own right. This brilliant open-air classical music concert is set this year for 26 May 2016. www.vienna.info

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FEELING IMPERIALLY ROYAL

IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH IMAGINATION TO PICTURE WHAT A TRIP ALONG THE DANUBE IN AUSTRIA MIGHT BE LIKE. EVERYONE KNOWS THAT THERE ARE CULTURAL, SCENIC AND CULINARY DELIGHTS AT EVERY TURN. THE ONLY QUESTION THAT REMAINS IS THIS: SHOULD WE HOP ON OUR BIKES, LACE UP OUR HIKING BOOTS OR BOARD THE NEXT SHIP PASSING BY? ANITA ERICSON

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If you adopt the theme “Habsburgs and Baroque”, the Danube Cycle Path becomes an imperial grand tour. The cycling trip begins with Passau, a Baroque gem. Although this city is in the German state of Bavaria, it has strong connections to the Habsburgs. They were adversaries of the prince-bishops of Passau in the fight for power. One of these prince-bishops also founded Engelszell Abbey in what is today Upper Austrian terrain. The abbey is likewise on the cycle tour and has an impressive church in pure Rococo style. Incidentally, Engelszell is where soon-to-be Empress Sisi was first welcomed to Austrian soil on her trip down the Danube to marry the emperor. Cyclists keen on art and history gain further insights into the world of the high nobility at Starhemberg Castle and can delight in the figurative sumptuousness of Rococo in the abbey church in Wilhering. Ultimately they land in Linz, the forgotten residence. In the late 15th century Linz was the official residence of the Habsburg court under Friedrich III. The abbeys of Melk, Göttweig and Klosterneuburg and then Hof Palace complete this cycling tour on a historical note in Lower Austria.

SIGHTSEEING IN MOTION

action-packed // DANUBE TRAVELS 1

Liberating hiking adventures high above the Danube in Upper Austria, with Grein in the background.

From the Danube Cycle Path, you can proceed straight to the center of Vienna, to the Ring for example.

Informative hikes: The “Wachau Hiata” guides accompany you and tell you all about their region.

The imperial display of splendor naturally peaks in Vienna, the former imperial-royal capital of the Habsburg Monarchy. Whole days can be spent visiting the top sights alone: St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace and the magnificent buildings along the Ringstrasse – and there is still so much more to discover. A practical way to explore Vienna is on a bicycle. The city has 1,200 km of bike paths, bike lanes and bike routes through areas with little traffic. To go from the Danube Cycle Path to the center of Vienna, you turn onto the Danube Canal Bike Path near Nussdorf on the north edge of Vienna and cycle on it down to the Urania observatory. This spot is the beginning (and end) of the “Ring Rund”, the sightseeing bike path that circles the historical center on the magnificent Ringstrasse, enabling side trips into the first district. AMUSEMENT PARK IN RIVERSIDE FORESTS The link between the historical center and the Danube is the Prater, which – like so much in Vienna – has an imperial history. This riverside forest rich in game was declared an imperial hunting grounds in 1560 by Emperor Maximilian II. It was not opened to the public until the reign of Josef II, at which time the famous “Wurstelprater” amusement park also came into being. The year was 1766. In 2016 the Prater will be celebrating its 250th anniversary as a public park. Today the Prater is a modern amusement and recreational park with a touch of nostalgia. The people that run the park have naturally come up with some great ideas to celebrate this anniversary. Beyond the merry-go-rounds and bumper cars, the Prater has retained much of its green space.

The main artery in the Prater, the Hauptallee, takes cyclists, skaters, horse-back riders, joggers, walkers and dalliers from the hubbub of rides to quiet areas in riverside forests that are still recognizable as such. Of course, Vienna is a paradise for ambitious urban walkers, too, with a unique green beltway surrounding it. There are a total of 11 routes that let hikers explore Vienna and its direct environs. They range from the classic city hiking trail “Stadtwanderweg 1” to the more strenuous “RundumadumWanderweg”, which lets hikers circle the entire city in 24 legs. HIKING THROUGH A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LANDSCAPE Some people will want to hike in earnest. They are advised to leave the city limits to lace up their hiking boots. The Danube countryside is enchantingly scenic on the Wachau World Heritage Trail (Welterbesteig Wachau), the 180 km long-distance trail that passes through the Wachau, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape. This 30 km long water gap between Melk Abbey and the city of Krems was granted this honor because of “its architecture, human settlements, and agricultural use, principally the terraced vineyards that vividly show a medieval landscape that has developed organically and harmoniously over time.” The World Heritage Trail running high above the free-ﬂowing Danube (with corresponding lookout points) follows historical paths to link together the 13 communities of the Wachau Valley. There are so many aha moments along the way: 20 fortresses, ruins and castles, the Wachau wine area with its stone terraces and steep vineyards, the well-tended apricot orchards, three

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monasteries and Jauerling, the highest mountain anywhere along the Danube at 960 m above sea level. And speaking of Jauerling: The nature park there recently underwent a major improvement. A themed trail guides hikers through the history of the national park in ten stations. A specially developed app is helpful along the way. It lets walkers use their smartphones to hear tales told by two local characters from Jauerling. The high point in the most literal sense of the word is the 960 m high summit of Jauerling, which has been inaccessible for 50 years. A new lookout platform, the rebuilt Wachau terrace and oversized seating make the two-hour hike a wonderful sensory experience. Hikers like to be individualists, but occasionally miss fascinating facets of the countryside through which they are moving. One of the best ways to immerse yourself in the local culture of the Wachau is to join up with a “Weinhiata”, “wine keeper” in Austrian dialect. In olden days they would watch over the precious grapes in the vineyards. The modern “Wachau Hiata” personally present this UNESCO World Heritage landscape to guests. They can be growers of apricots and other fruit, winemakers, and woods and herbal instructors from the region. They are available on many different days to take hikers by the hand and tell them about the local traditions and countryside, culinary and cellaring techniques, vineyard work and wild herbs. LEGENDARY NIBELUNGENGAU The World Heritage Trail (Welterbesteig) with its commendable design served as the model for the long-distance Nibelungen-

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gau Trail, which has directly adjoined it to the west since 2014. The 110 km route between Ybbs and Melk follows scenic trails north and south of the Danube, passing through a charming landscape and leading to excursion destinations steeped in history. Although this swath of land is less well known than the neighboring Wachau, it is ideal for explorers and anyone seeking peace and quiet. Five of the highlights along the route are the Oskar Kokoschka Center in Pöchlarn, Maria Taferl Basilica in High Baroque style and fairytale-like Artstetten Castle with its seven onion towers, the 800-year-old Castle of Europe in Leiben and the modern Danube power station in Ybbs-Persenbeug. SPIRITUAL TREKS If you go a bit further to the west, the Danube Trail (Donausteig) hooks up with the two long-distance Lower Austrian hiking trails. This 450 km trail runs along the Danube from Passau to Grein. It is routed to showcase the scenic diversity of the Danube region in Bavaria and Upper Austria. The journey on foot along the river takes you from wooded banks and cultivated farmland to plains and cities, then on to wild and romantic ravines and canyons. There are 41 loop trails forking off into the hinterland of the mighty river. Hikers keen on exploring urban trails will ﬁnd Linz a worthwhile destination. There are no fewer than eleven city hiking trails passing through Linz and into the neighboring countryside. They can be covered in two to three hours and even include the Linz section of the Way of St. James. Opened in 2010, the Danube Trail recently received several new

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Backdrop for a cycling tour: Engelszell Abbey.

Hikers on the Danube Trail work up a big appetite and thirst. Taking a lunch break at Speckalm in Bad Kreuzen.

The Wachau at your back and the World Heritage Trail in front of you.

Backdrop for a cycling tour: the legendary Nibelungengau.

Most of the municipal hiking trails in Vienna pass by vineyards.

// INFO BOX

DANUBE ADVENTURES – FUN SPORTS ALONG THE RIVER By bicycle – Habsburgs and Baroque along the Danube www.donau-oesterreich.at/kultur/habsburger-barock/fahrrad/ VIENNA Bicycling in Vienna www.wien.info/media/files/bicycle-information.pdf City hiking in Vienna Eleven routes totaling 121.5 km – covering recreational areas such as Kahlenberg, Bisamberg, Sofienalpe, etc. App: available from Playstore and from iTunes. https://open.wien.gv.at/site/wanderwege-wien-2/ www.wien.info/en/sightseeing/green-vienna/hiking-in-around Vienna Prater www.wien.info/en/sightseeing/prater/green-prater Vienna waterway Hiking or cycling around the Upper and Lower Old Danube. There are 21 select locations with interesting information about history, fauna, flora and the ecosystem. App: available from Playstore and from iTunes. www.wiener-wasserweg.at

facets. With deceleration and the search for meaning becoming ever more important, spiritual aspects have successfully been added to the route. The attention of Danube Trail hikers is drawn to traces of the saints and ancient cult sites, to places charged with energy and symbolism. Meditative, spiritual moments occur. On the Wolfgang loop trail in Pupping (Puppinger Wolfgangrunde), hikers can encounter St. Wolfgang, patron saint of sculptors, woodworkers, charcoal makers, carpenters and boatmen. He built a reputation as a courageous church reformer and the following words ascribed to him and prepared for this loop trail reﬂect this aspect of his life: “Muster courage to risk something for your visions and build a new life, muster courage to leave old paths and take new ones.” A good saying for Danube travelers.

GUIDE APP FOR EXPLORING THE DANUBE Danube tales An audio experience of a special kind: This guide app has 40 audio recordings by major regional ﬁgures and about the Danube region. Interested listeners are taken behind the scenes and can immerse themselves in the mythical landscape that is the Danube. The topics include Danube shipping – regulation of power stations, culinary delights – farm goodies, the great outdoors – animals in the Danube, ancient trade routes, Danube markets but also cultural and historical subjects. Wachau – Nibelungengau – Krems Valley With the free tour planner for iPhone and Android, you can work out an ideal tour in no time whether choose cycling or hiking, speed walking or mountain biking.

LOWER AUSTRIA Wachau World Heritage Trail (Welterbesteig) www.welterbesteig.at Exploring with a Wachau.Hiata guide www.wachau-hiata.at Enjoy peak Danube vistas from the Jauerling-Wachau Nature Park www.naturpark-jauerling.at Nibelungengau Long-Distance Hiking Trail www.nibelungengau.at Great outdoors in the Danube Wetlands National Park Exploring the Danube wetlands with national park rangers on guided hikes and in rides in inﬂatable boats and canoes. www.donauauen.at Taking day trips with the Carnuntum guides www.carnuntum-marchfeld.com The Marchfeld Canal Bike Path Cycling on a well-designed 62 km themed trail. www.marchfeldkanal-radweg.at By ship on the Danube Sailing through the Wachau, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape. www.brandner.at, www.ddsg-blue-danube.at UPPER AUSTRIA Danube Cycle Path www.donauradweg.at/en Danube Trail (Donausteig) “Art along the Danube Trail” – new: In “Pesenbach Valley – Paths to Healing” At Feldkirchen, hikers can follow in the steps of Father Kneipp, a founder of naturopathic medicine (Kneipp Cure) to mystical places with special energies. St. Agatha offers “Paths to the Inner Self” with eight stations that take hikers to sources of energy and worldly wisdoms. Both attractions feature a metal sculpture by the artist Miguel Horn as an introduction to the gallery “Art on the Danube Trail.” www.donausteig.com/en City hiking in Linz The city hiking trails in Linz invite outdoor enthusiasts to explore, unwind and slow down. www.linztourismus.at/stadtbesichtigung/wandern By ship on the Danube Take a seat and enjoy the Danube cruise from Regensburg to Passau and on to Linz. www.donauschiffahrt.at, www.donaureisen.at/en

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DELICACIES ON THE DOORSTEP BARBARA HUTTER

To the left and the right of the silvery river you can see fruit trees and asparagus fields, rows of grapevines and berry bushes, herb gardens and vegetable beds. The tradition of self-sufficiency has a delicious consequence – regional cuisine. “Regional cuisine is a given for me”, Erich Aumüller says with conviction. His fish restaurant in Obermühl is right on the Danube not far from the Schlögener Schlinge, the famous meander. “Most” is German for fermented cider and his cellar “Donautaler Mostkellerei“ holds treasures galore. The fruits for his most come from his own orchard or from neighboring farmers. The dishes that are served are also exemplary: fish from the Danube usually caught by the Aumüllers themselves, game from their own hunting grounds, Eferding asparagus when it is in season and beer from the nearby Mühlviertel breweries Schlägl and Hofstetten. Aumüller: “The demand for down-to-earth fare is on the rise and that is my philosophy.” Aumüller’s inn is one of 23 restaurants to have joined the brand new initiative “Kostbarkeiten & Köstlichkeiten” (= precious and

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delectable). It gives a platform to culinary specialty dishes, products and craftsmanship in the Upper Austrian Danube Region. One member of this tasty group is Schörgi, a bakery and cake shop in Grein. It creates special Austrian sweet dishes and pastries from the good old days such as delicious Batzlguglhupf plus delicious innovations. The new “Kostbarkeiten & Köstlichkeiten” (= precious and delectable) initiative puts Upper Austrian enjoyment businesses in the limelight along with monuments of the culinary arts such as the famous Linzer torte. This beloved dessert is a sweet ambassador and export hit and also considered one of the most venerable tortes in the world. REGIONAL SHOPPING WITH E-MOBIL A few Danube waves further to the east, Philipp Essl has greatly expanded the regional supplier network for Winzerstüberl, his restaurant in Rossatz. The newcomer in 2015 offers a contemporary, smart Wachau cuisine – and includes the origin of the ingredients on the menu.

THE BENEFITS OF REGIONAL SUPPLY CHAINS ARE NOW BEING REDISCOVERED ELSEWHERE. ALONG THE DANUBE, THESE CHAINS HAVE A LONG TRADITION ROOTED IN REGIONAL CUISINE.

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Josef “Pepi” Floh gets his ingredients from a radius of just 66 kilometers.

“Precious and delectable”: most (cider) specialist Erich Aumüller with his family in Obermühl.

Everything at Schörgi, a bakery and cake shop in Grein, always smells and tastes wonderful.

Young chef Philipp Essl with father Franz serves smart Wachau cuisine.

Head chef Martin Zeissl also enjoys cooking vegan cuisine in his restaurant Motto am Fluss.

Maritime ﬂair awaits guests at Restaurant Marina Wien.

Many a restaurateur would let seabass or shrimp pass, but Josef Floh is radical. Everything that possibly can be is purchased from within a radius of 66 kilometers by E-Mobile, including furniture. He can count the exceptions on one hand. “Most important is respect for the product and the people,” the innkeeper says. Every year he issues his own sustainability report. “Think about it for a minute: How much do we spend on a liter of engine oil and how much for a liter of oil for cooking?” Another top chef of Lower Austria calls Göttlesbrunn home, a town about 80 km downstream on the Danube. Adi Bittermann has long been firmly established in his guild with his Vinarium. His inn is housed in a former primary school and contains a regional wine shop with top vintages from the immediate vicinity (Carnuntum wine region). He is also a world barbecue champion and regularly serves excellent game supplied to him from the surrounding forests; delectables from just outside his front door you might say. And what could be more organic than wild game anyway? GOOD CONSCIENCE ALONG THE RIVER The trend toward organic regional fare has long hit the cities as well. Vienna is perfect for it, located as it is between the Vienna Woods, the Danube wetlands and the Marchfeld. Many restaurants cook regionally and seasonally, so diners enjoy delicious food as well as a good conscience. A fine example is Motto am Fluss on the Danube Canal in Vienna. Head chef Martin Zeissl considers it vital to work with organic farmers from the surrounding area. They supply him with delicacies such as Oxheart carrots or fragrant strasberries (Mieze Schindler strawberries) as well as rare species of potato such as the Blaue Luise or heritage varieties of cucumber. He also buys fish and meat in

the vicinity. Beers and half of the wine are from the region and organic and the bread is baked on premises. Zur Alten Kaisermühle is a restaurant built near the water and has some of the most scenic outdoor seating in Vienna. Guests feel right away like they are on vacation, especially because of the close ties the owner has with Italian and Spanish producers for Mediterranean delicacies. An interesting mix arises in combination with Austrian cuisine and fresh regional ingredients. The view of the Old Danube is peerless. Marina in the 2nd District is the visual antitheses of venerable imperial traditions. It is ideal for chilling out, with three terraces, a landing stage, huge windows at every turn that afford appealing views summer and winter (with the ﬁreplace burning). The menu showcases Vienna specialty dishes, seasonal fare ranging from asparagus to game plus vegetarian and maritime cuisine.

// INFO BOX Culinary tours Experience Vienna from its most enjoyable side on a tour of the restaurants, coffeehouses, heuriger wine taverns and markets of the city. www.wien.info/en/shopping-wining-dining Vienna wine hiking days in September 2016 Gourmet festival in Stadtpark 6–8 May 2016 Best of Wachau hosts www.bestof-wachau.at Wine roads along the Danube www.donau.com/en Enjoyable shopping www.donau.com/en Wirtshauskultur Niederösterreich www.donau.com/en Danube Trail innkeepers www.donausteig.com/en „Precious and delectable’“ www.donauregion.at/en Culinary walking tour of Linz www.linz-austriaguides.at

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CULTURAL ROLLER-COASTER ALONG THE DANUBE

MELLA WALDSTEIN

Centenary of the death of Emperor Franz Joseph

Guarantor of world class performances at Grafenegg: Rudolf Buchbinder whose Grafenegg Festival enters its tenth year in 2016.

International stars thrilling audiences at Clam Castle

Known for its unusual fare: Ars Electronica Linz

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THE DANUBE CULTURAL REGION When “Central Europe” entered the public discourse as a longed-for place in the mid-1980s, people had a hard time adequately defining this term geographically. One thing is clear, however: The Danube is the blue ribbon that connects this entity. As the European Community grew, there was first an intellectual opening and then, with the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989, a factual opening of the borders. The Danube region extending all the way to the Black Sea was rediscovered and newly defined as a common cultural region. Long relegated to being a waterway and source of energy at best, the Danube became imbued with new non-material, intellectual meaning. That is especially true culturally. It is no wonder that Lower Austria launched its Danube festival (Donaufestival) in 1988, albeit with a somewhat different focus initially.

THE MOSAICS IN THE SALA TERRENA AT GREINBURG IN UPPER AUSTRIA CONTAIN THOUSANDS UPON THOUSANDS OF DANUBE PEBBLES: SHIMMERING ALABASTER, PINK AND GRAY, PASTEL GREEN AND PIGEON BLUE. THE DANUBE AND ART MELD. A WAYS DOWNSTREAM ON THE DANUBE AT CLAM CASTLE, CARLOS SANTANA PICKS UP HIS GUITAR …

With its splendid rooms and the Upper Austrian shipping museum, Greinburg is one of the many structures along the river of art historical signiﬁcance. The Danube landscapes have always been inseparably intertwined with culture. Even more, the Danube supports and promotes culture. Finds like the Venus of Willendorf attest to the favorable conditions for settlement the river has offered since the Stone Age. The Danube was part of the Roman limes, just as it was a major link between west and east as a waterway. Wine was cultivated on Austrian territory for the ﬁrst time in the Danube region – and wine also led to prosperity and an appreciation for art.

impressive // DANUBE CULTURE

DIALOGUE BETWEEN THE ANCIENT AND THE MODERN Today there are many festivals that take place along the Danube. Opera in the arcade courtyard of Greinburg and concerts in the Wilhering and Ardagger monasteries follow the objectives of the Donaufestwochen im Strudengau, creating a dialog between the ancient and the modern, in this case between early music and modernism. Modern international literature also has a place in Strudengau. When the Swedish author August Strindberg married the Viennese feature writer Frida Uhl, he visited her grandparents’ farm in Upper Austria near Saxen. In his “Inferno. Legends” (1896), Strindberg described the Klamschlucht ravine and the workers who used hydropower from the stream here. “Then the blacksmiths, their torsos naked, in the midst of fire and sparks, glowing iron and molten lead; a noise that rattles the brain to its very base and sets the heart pounding in the chest …” The Strindberg Museum in Saxen, the only Strindberg museum outside of Sweden, has original photographs and manuscripts on display. FESTIVALS, UPSTREAM AND DOWN OneRepublic, Carlos Santana, Hubert von Goisern are just three of the top acts from the concert lineup of one year at Burgarena Clam. It all began with a combination brewery and inn established by Georg Clam. When the young lord of the castle invited the legendary Austrian musician Ostbahn-Kurti to perform in the 1990s, his expectations were far exceeded. “The concertgoers were packed into our restaurant’s outdoor seating area like sardines, they sat on the roof, on the swaying pergola, you even saw spectators up in the trees …” Ever since then, this castle in Upper Austria has been the place for all generations to go for good vibrations. The festivals along the Danube are not limited to the summer season. The buds

have barely appeared when the Easter festival Imago Dei presents its top-caliber cultural program in the Church of the Friars Minor in Krems. This rondel just keeps going strong in the Wachau and ends with “Wachau in Echtzeit”, (Wachau in real time) an autumn festival full of crowd-pleasers plus cultural and historical journeys. In Krems the cultural program is concentrated in the Kunstmeile with its many cultural venues, such as Kunsthalle, the Caricature Museum or Forum Frohner. SOUND MEETS SCENERY A ways downstream, in the castle park of Grafenegg, the Wolkenturm beckons. The breathtaking concrete structure banks up into the sky like a tower of clouds yet remains open at the same time. “Sound Meets Scenery” occurs again in 2016 for the tenth time at the Grafenegg Festival. The best in classical musicians will perform during this anniversary festival (19 August to 11 September 2016): the Cleveland Orchestra, conductors like Christian Thielemann, Franz Welser-Möst and Daniele Gatti along with soloists such as Hilary Hahn, Klaus Florian Vogt and Camilla Nylund. The composer in residence in the anniversary season is Christian Jost. The festival will begin with the premiere of his “Opening Fanfare”. Grand finale: Grafenegg director and pianist of international renown Rudolf Buchbinder will play all five Beethoven piano concertos with the Vienna Philharmonic. A stroll through the English style castle park is a wonderful way to get into the right mood for a concert. Builders and architects have used water as an architectural element from time immemorial. Facades reflected in water expand representational structures and let them grow above and beyond themselves. The London docks set off the rediscovery of riverbanks as urban space. Linz followed suit. The city at night is reflected in the Danube. The lights of the glass facades swing

DANUBE magazine 2016 // 17

back and forth in the water. On the left bank of the Danube is the lucid glass façade of the Ars Electronica Center, on the right bank the glowing cube that is the Lentos Museum, both substantiate the position of Linz as a modern metropolis. Musiktheater Linz is a further building that attracts not just music lovers to the Upper Austrian capital but also architecture enthusiasts. The various performance venues consider themselves as more than stages, they are places of cultural exchange and communication. The large KlangFoyer is architecturally impressive with its fine wood and refined technology. The HörBar is a bar in the evening and an audio library during the day. The SchallMauer consists of wood panels. When touched, this noise barrier makes noises palpable. Fifty-six contact speakers were installed behind the individual panels making up the 25 meter long wooden wall. They transmit the noises of the city and open up the music theater acoustically to the outdoors. LINZ NOW A UNESCO CITY OF MEDIA ARTS The new Linz Mural Harbor is another remarkable feature. International street art and graffiti artists turned gray industrial buildings there into an open-air gallery best admired from aboard a boat or ship on the river. The murals have become one of the highlights of the Linz port tours conducted daily for tourists. It is no accident that the city of Linz was recently admitted to the illustrious group of UNESCO Cities of Media Arts. As a pioneer in digital media art, Linz can contribute vast expertise and years of experience to this network of future-oriented cities and metropolises from around the globe while continuing to benefit from its reputation as a center of creativity in Europe. There are many places in Vienna that make evident the skill with which this city links its imperial past to the present day. A superb example is the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) with is many

18 // DANUBE magazine 2016

cultural institutions and with mumok – the biggest museum of modern art in Central Europe and the biggest collection of Vienna Actionism. Hallen E+G are in the heart of MQ just steps away from the art history and natural history museums (KHM and NHM) and serve as established venues for many cultural highlights in the city. Besides the Wiener Festwochen, Tanzquartier Wien and the young Vienna music theater scene, Hallen E+G are proven venues for myriad international music, theater and dance productions. In the Baroque park in the Augarten, patron of the arts Francesca Habsburg and her ThyssenBornemisza Art Contemporary (TBA21) offer an unusual art program with alternating exhibitions and performances. More than 40 galleries display and sell contemporary art. A former bread factory in the 10th district houses an impressive ten institutions devoted to contemporary art. Experts and collectors gather in September for viennacontemporary. Soon thereafter – in November – the Vienna Art Week turns the Danube metropolis into a magnet for contemporary art. In music, the city also relies on new approaches besides Strauss & Co.: Wien Modern, one of the most important festivals for contemporary music, has been a red-letter event on the festival calendar since 1988. In public space, visitors likewise encounter installations by artists such as Franz West, Heimo Zobernig or Peter Kogler. Rounding out this enjoyment of contemporary culture is the vibrant restaurant scene in Vienna. Culinary art, architecture and interior design combine to create a gesamtkunstwerk for all the senses in establishments such as Kussmaul, Shiki, Skopik & Lohn, or Das Loft. IN HOMAGE TO EMPEROR FRANZ JOSEPH Schönbrunn Palace is certainly another gesamtkunstwerk of historic dimensions. The life of Emperor Franz Joseph I began and ended there. On the centenary of his death in 2016, there

impressive // DANUBE CULTURE

Unusual: Francesca Habsburg’s Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary (TBA21)

Mural Harbor – The harbor gallery in Linz with a picture by Aryz from Barcelona

Chill-out atmosphere in MQ with Hallen E+G in the background

Built by the great general Prince Eugene of Savoy: Hof Palace

Epicenter of the cultural scene in Linz: Lentos

Klangraum Krems, Church of the Friars Minor (Glatt&Verkehrt)

// INFO BOX

will also be an exhibition at Schönbrunn Palace devoted to this man who shaped and held together the Danube Monarchy for 68 years. Schönbrunn was initially built as a hunting lodge in the late 17th century by order of Emperor Leopold I. It became the imperial summer residence a half century later under Maria Theresia, whose 300th birthday will be celebrated in 2017. Maria Theresia was also the ruler who had the Gloriette built in the famous park of Schönbrunn Palace. Schönbrunn Palace remains as appealing as ever to leading statesmen, artists and millions of visitors. The grand architecture and impressive staterooms make Schönbrunn Palace a sight of international caliber. BAROQUE GESAMTKUNSTWERK Hof Palace is not far from Niederweiden and always worth a visit. The estate was built by the general Prince Eugene of Savoy and later owned by Empress Maria Theresia. The Baroque gesamtkunstwerk continues across the gardens, which extend to the bottomland of the March. The box hedges bordering of the plantings are like precious frames; the arrangement of the ﬂowers, like a painting. Façade ornamentation and passing cloud formations are mirrored in the fountains. Although the main purpose of Baroque palaces was to glorify the owner, these complexes were certainly more than just a collection of luxurious residential celebratory rooms. Hof Palace is a perfect place to understand this fact. The lovingly restored manor farm of the palace – with kitchens, rooms for crafts and trades, livestock and the palace nursery – also help visitors to understand a palace or castle as an organism and economic entity in its own right. An imperial world from long ago … – it is good that visitors catch sight of the silhouette of Bratislava beyond the garden walls. This view pulls them back into today’s world.

UPPER AUSTRIA UNESCO City of Media Arts www.cityofmediaarts.at, www.linztourismus.at Donaufestwochen Strudengau Annual dialogue of early music and modernism. Opera rarities at Greinburg Castle, unknown works by masters from the history of music, concert series at historical venues. 29 July–15 August 2016 | www.donau-festwochen.at Clam concerts The large area at the foot of the castle in Upper Austria is used as an open-air special-event venue. Highlight 2016: Simply Red on 7 August! www.burgclam.com Summer festival at Stadttheater Grein 2 July–30 August 2016 | www.sommerspiele-grein.at St Florian Bruckner Festival 14–20 August 2016 | www.brucknertage.at Danube Advent November/December 2016 | www.donauregion.at/en Dance, theater, song, jazz, music, cabaret in Strudengau www.fussfrei.at LOWER AUSTRIA Easter festival Imago Dei 4–28 March 2016 | www.klangraum.at Donaufestival 29 April–7 May 2016 | www.donaufestival.at International Baroque Festival at Melk Abbey 13–16 May 2016 | www.barocktagemelk.at Egon Schiele Weekend 10–12 June 2016 | www.tulln.at/erleben/schiele Sommerspiele Melk (annual theater festival with a view of Melk Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage structure) 16 June–14 August 2016 | www.sommerspielemelk.at Haydn Festival Rohrau 24–26 June 2016 | www.kultur-management.at Art Carnuntum Festival June/July 2016 | www.artcarnuntum.at Stockerau Festival 28 June–6 August 2016 | www.festspiele-stockerau.at Glatt&Verkehrt (annual summer and fall festival of traditional and contemporary folk music) 1–31 July 2016 | www.glattundverkehrt.at 10th Anniversary Grafenegg Festival 19 August–11 September 2016 | www.grafenegg.com Glatt&Verkehrt HerbstZeitlos (Smooth&Inverted, Timeless Autumn) 30 September–2 October 2016 | www.glattundverkehrt.at Wachau in Echtzeit (Wachau in Real Time) October to November 2016 | www.wachauinechtzeit.at VIENNA Emperor Franz Joseph I (1830–1916) Four exhibitions to mark the centenary of his death: – Schönbrunn Palace: “Man & Monarch” – Imperial Carriage Museum in Vienna: “Majesty & Modesty” – Imperial Furniture Collection: “Festivities & Everyday Life” – Niederweiden (estate in Lower Austria): “Hunting and Recreation” www.schoenbrunn.at 15th anniversary of MuseumsQuartier The MuseumsQuartier celebrates its 15th anniversary in 2016 with exhibitions, concerts and much more. www.mqw.at 10th anniversary of Vienna Design Week In 2016, Vienna will become a gathering spot for fans of product, furniture and industrial design for the tenth time already! www.viennadesignweek.at

DANUBE magazine 2016 // 19

// Rad Total (Nothing but Bicycles) The annual “Rad Total” in the Danube Valley (Nothing but Bicycles) opens the season, attracting thousands of cyclists to the Danube Cycle Path in Upper Austria. All communities along the Danube between Passau and Schlögen take part, offering a diverse line-up of events for the occasion. © WGD Donau Oberösterreich Tourismus GmbH/Erber

www.radtotal.at | 17 April 2016 www.donauradweg.at

// „Donau in Flammen“ (Danube on Fire) In 2016, this event series will focus once again on myths and legends from the Danube region. Musical fireworks on the Danube will be staged in three communities. The fireworks will be accompanied by a Danube legend. Visitors can enjoy the spectacle from the shore or from aboard a ship from the fleet of Donauschiffahrt Wurm+Köck. www.donauinflammen.com 14 May (Passau), 27 May (Linz), 12 August 2016 (Aschach/Feldkirchen)

01 © LinzTourismus/Andreas Röbl

04 05

// Special events in Linz

Being mobile in Upper Austria

01 Donauschiffahrt Wurm+Köck

02 03

04 05

www.nextcomic.org I 10 to 20 March 2016 www.crossingeurope.at I 20 to 25 April 2016 www.aec.at I 8 to 12 September 2016 www.klangwolke.at I 10 September 2016 www.brucknerfest.at I 18 September to 9 October 2016

Linz as a hotspot for exciting and trailblazing events in art and culture. For instance nextcomic, one of the most important comic festivals in German speaking countries, the ﬁlm festival Crossing Europe or classic events such as Ars Electronica, Klangwolke and the Bruckner Festival.

Scheduled service Passau–Linz–Vienna www.donauschiffahrt.de Being mobile in Lower Austria Schifffahrt Donau Touristik www.donaureisen.at 06 Wachau Schifffahrt Passau Hauptbahnhof (main station) www.brandner.at www.oebb.at www.ddsg-blue-danube.at Linz Hauptbahnhof (main station) 07 Wachau Linien (bus lines) www.oebb.at www.n-mobil.at Schifffahrt Donau Touristik 08 Rental Bikes from “nextbike” www.donaureisen.at www.nextbike.at Donauuferbahn Linz–Grein 09 Wachaubahn (rail line) (rail line along Danube) www.noevog.at/wachaubahn www.oebb.at 10 RadTramper Donau (Vienna to Passau by train and bicycle) Donauschiffahrt Ardagger www.erlebnisbahn.oebb.at www.donauschiffahrt-ardagger.at

Being mobile in Vienna

11 Danube Canal, Twin City Liner Station www.twincityliner.com

12 Port of Vienna/Handelskai (DDSG) 13 14

Scheduled service Vienna–Wachau www.ddsg-blue-danube.at Hauptbahnhof (main train station) www.hauptbahnhof-wien.at Westbahnhof (west train station) www.bahnhofcitywienwest.at

points of departure // DANUBE LIFE

// wachau GOURMETfestival The new version of the successful wachau GOURMETfestival is becoming a culinary milestone. Top chefs from the region join with international guest chefs for rendezvous at special places in the Wachau. Wine serves as the ﬁtting accompaniment. www.wachau-gourmet-festival.at | 31 March to 14 April 2016

// 10th anniversary of Donaukanaltreiben Lively scene along the Danube Canal in Vienna with free admission: DJ sets, dance workshops, fashion shows, sports along with a variety of culinary delicacies – and a whole lot of live concerts performed by top bands largely from Austria.

Veltlinerland Westliches Weinviertel

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Thermenregion Carnuntum

// Weinfrühling & Weinherbst

www.donau.com/en

// Donauinselfest 2016 It is and remains Austria’s largest open-air event: This year is the 33rd time this festival is being staged on the Danube Island in Vienna. Once again, top-ﬂight stars will present music of all genres on numerous stages. The accompanying entertainment program is also quite impressive.

www.donauinselfest.at | 24 to 26 June 2016

Rammstein and Iron Maiden were conﬁrmed as the ﬁrst headliners for this festival on the Danube Island in Vienna. Headbanging guaranteed. www.rockinvienna.at | 3 to 5 June 2016

Most (cider)

On the centenary of Schiele’s birth on 12 June, the great painter’s town of birth Tulln will be focusing solely on its most famous favorite son. Venues will be the birthplace at the main train station and the Schiele Trail; a Schiele Symposium devoted to the subject “Schiele’s Art in a Contemporary Context”; the Schiele Museum, where select early works by the artist will be displayed. www.tulln.at/erleben/schiele 10 to 12 June 2016

Wine DANUBE magazine 2016 // 21

// Tulln celebrates Egon Schiele

// Rock in Vienna

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Wine has created additional seasons of the year along the Danube in Lower Austria. In spring and autumn, there are hundreds of tasting opportunities and events for wine experiences full of tradition and diversity.

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Danube leisure cycling holiday W ^^ h Íł s/ EE The Danube region is a cultural treasure chest! Explore the picturesque landscape with castles and vineyards during cycling on ďŹ&#x201A;at cycle paths. Services: 7 overnight stays in good 3*** & 4****hotels with breakfast buffet | train package to/from each train station in Germany/Austria/2nd class | DonauCard | luggage service to Vienna | tour map & information

6 Budapest 7 Bratislava 8 Linz

from

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Information & booking 0043 732 2080 65 www.en.ms-primadonna.net primadonna@donautouristik.com

22 // DANUBE magazine 2016

Donau Touristik GMBH Lederergasse 4-12 A - 4010 Linz/Donau

0043 732 2080 56 www.en.donau-radreisen.info j.reichhart@donautouristik.com

WINE HIKING.WACHAU VALLEY This 5-day tour with 3 hiking days hiking in the heart of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Valley of Wachau, is a true treat for the senses. The luggage will be transported from one host to the next.

SERVICES INCLUDED: 4 overnight stays / half board in the selected companies Daily hiking meals with regional products, prepared by the host

Photo: Donau Niederösterreich/Franz Hauleitner

Luggage transportation by the overnight-stay selected company (max 1 luggage per person) Wine tasting with 3 wines at the winery Danube cruise from Spitz – Krems Hiking ﬁle with map, directions and information about the world cultural heritage valley of Wachau

PACKAGE PRICE PER PERSON: FROM € 448,– IN DOUBLE ROOM Information & Reservations: Donau Niederösterreich Tourismus GmbH | Phone +43 2713 30060-60 urlaub@donau.com | www.wachau.at/vacation-packages Not included: local tax € 1,50 per person/day (from15 years of age payable locally) Reservation: 2 persons | Valid: April – October 2016 (starting April and October, limited ferry service)

PERFECTLY ORGANISED CYCLING HOLIDAYS

Comprehensive assistance during the tour The most beautiful cycling routes Elaborate travel documents Luggage gg g transfer from hotel to hotel Get your

DANUBEBONUS no w!

w www.eurobike.at/danube-2016

DANUBE magazine 2016 // 23

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The Danube Route of Emperors and Kings

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Route of Emperors and Kings Your historical travel route along the Danube! Your journey on the historical route along the Danube will open up enchanting landscapes and remarkable cultural monuments. Whether by bicycle, boat, car or on foot – Europe’s second-largest river will astonish you, time and again.

Eastern Bavaria

Regensburg – World Heritage Site

Passau

In Eastern Bavaria, the Danube connects the Bavarian Forest with the Bavarian golf and thermal spa region. Untouched nature, varied landscapes, pulsating cities full of history and charm, impressive architectural monuments, magnificent monasteries and innumerable leisure activities invite you to take a relaxed, carefree holiday. www.ostbayern-tourismus.de

Here, the Danube connects people. The eventful history of two millennia is visible in the form of monuments in Regensburg. The Cathedral, the Town Hall with the Reichssaalbau, museums, monuments and art treasures of European importance. The city was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006. www.regensburg.de

German emperors and kings paid their respects to the Three-Rivers City. Passau’s backdrop of towers, squares, promenades and narrow streets was created by Italian baroque masters. At the heart of the Old Town, St. Stephen’s Cathedral is situated, where the largest Roman Catholic church organ in the world resounds. Veste Oberhaus towers majestically over the city. www.tourismus.passau.de

Danube Upper Austria

Linz, European Capital of Culture 2009

Danube Lower Austria

Numerous landscapes varied beyond description accompany you from Passau via Linz, the modern city of culture, to Grein, the jewel of the Strudengau, and offer breathtaking views and perspectives: magnificent baroque monasteries and palaces, castles, ruins and picturesque historical locations. www.donauregion.at, www.donauradweg.at

Linz was not only the European Capital of Culture 2009, but is also a UNESCO City of Media Arts. A colourful, luminous cultural metropolis, where past, present and future exist in harmony. The whole of Linz is a venue for theatre, film, music, cabaret and much more. www.linztourismus.at

The region that stretches from the Nibelungengau and the World Heritage Site of the Wachau to Römerland Carnuntum-Marchfeld is rich in history. It is a meeting place for those who love food, wine and culture. www.donau.com www.wachau.at

Wien - Weltkulturerbe

Bratislava - Die Krönungsstadt

Budapest - Weltkulturerbe

Wien zeigt Ihnen Kunst & Genuss in allen Facetten: Vom Schloss Schönbrunn über den Stephansdom bis hin zum Prachtboulevard Ringstraße. Die Hofburg ist mit den Kaiserappartements, Sisi Museum und Silberkammer, Schatzkammer und Spanischer Hofreitschule das imperiale Highlight der Altstadt. www.wien.info

Sie ist die moderne Donaumetropole am Schnittpunkt verschiedener Kulturen. Zehn ungarisch-österreichische Könige sind im Martinsdom gekrönt worden. Der Hauch vergangener Jahrhunderte ist bei einem Rundgang durch die sanierte Altstadt spürbar und überall locken trendige Cafés und Restaurants. www.visit.bratislava.sk

Die Hauptstadt von Ungarn hat eine wunderschöne Lage und bietet zahlreiche Sehenswürdigkeiten, wie z. B. das zum UNESCO-Welterbe gehörende Burgviertel mit dem Donaupanorama , das Parlament, die Stephansbasilika, das Stadtwäldchen mit der Burg Vajdahunyad, die Margareteninsel und noch vieles mehr. www.hungary.com

Route of Emperors and Kings working group / c/o Linz Tourismus / Adalbert-Stifter-Platz 2, 4020 Linz / Tel. +43 732 7070 2937 Get your free map: info@strassederkaiserundkoenige.com