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HITTING THE BOOKS WITH SPANISH WINES
RIOJA, RIBERA AND RÍAS BAIXAS
WRITTEN BY DONNA BROUSSEAU
When kids head back to school it’s all about the three Rs—Reading, ’Riting and ’Rithmetic. However, my favorite three are just for us grownups—Rioja, Ribera and Rías Baixas (pronounced “ree-ahs buy-shuss”), the three magnificent wine regions of Northern Spain. Not only are the wines spectacular on the palate, but they offer an array of styles: bold and soft, lively and quiet, rustic and refined. They are also, generally, easy on the wallet, thanks to highly educated winemakers who have adopted modern winemaking techniques, which enable exceptional wine production at a reasonable price. So let’s explore together and if it helps to sip along the way, by all means, pop a cork. Oh, the joy of adult education!
R ioja Arguably the most famous wine region of the three, Rioja has long been considered one of the preeminent producers of exceptional red wines — specifically those made from the Tempranillo grape. Although many of the region’s vineyards date back to Roman times, written evidence on a document dated 873 describes an anonymous vineyard donation to the San Andrés de Trepeana Monastery. However, modern Rioja history and the Spanish wines we know today really weren’t developed in volume until much later, when the phylloxera bug devastated French vineyards in 1850. It destroyed most of the vines through the 1860s, and forced the panicked French to look southward for places to buy and grow grapes.
(above) Though only founded in 1989, Terras Gauda Vineyards, in Rías Baixas, has a reputation for producing quality wines. (right) Emilio Canas is the respected winemaker in Rías Baixas’ Terras Gauda.
So French winemakers migrated south to Spain. Instead of planting new vineyards, which would have taken too long to make into wine for French wineglasses, many French merchants and negotiators quickly set about buying up Spanish grapes and blending/aging their wines to create styles similar to their tastes in Bordeaux. Thus the French wine thirst was relieved, while the influx of cash and knowledge allowed Rioja winemakers to refine and modernize their vineyards and incorporate French winemaking techniques. Voilà!
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All was going gangbusters until that pesky bug put on its walking shoes and travelled down to Rioja in the early 1900s. Along the way it chewed up nearly 70 percent of the vineyards. But the clever French had already implemented a solution — French vines were grafted onto hardy American rootstock, which was resistant to the vicious bug. The French decided to return home and flavorsmagazine.com
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reestablish their roots there, creating a huge blow to the Spanish market. Rioja limped along until it was hit by two World Wars and the Spanish Civil War, further devastating the region. The Spanish government, in order to feed the starving, demanded that the vines be yanked out and crops be planted. Recovery of the wine industry was slow and it wasn’t until the early 1970s that Rioja started to regain its footing and get back to the business of making wine. Wine barrels don’t last forever, and when French oak barrels had to be replaced, Spain began the practice of importing much cheaper American oak and making barrels themselves. This practice is still used today for most aging, lending the vanilla notes typical of many wines from Rioja. Finally, Rioja received its DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in 1988. To be considered for classification, wineries must submit their wines to the Consejo Regulador (the governing body that enforces DO regulations) laboratory and tasting panel for testing and evaluation. Wines that have been granted DO/DOC status will feature the regional stamp of the Consejo Regulador.
RIOJA WINE STYLES Old World wines are aged and earthy. Spice plays the dominant role and fruit is just a minor player. Balanced and elegant, they often are compared to Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. New World wines are more palate-friendly, with predominant berry and oaky flavors. They are more “Napa style” wines.
RIOJA WINE CLASSIFICATIONS Crianzas are young, vibrant wines meant to be drunk now. These easy drinking wines appeal to many, with their earthy, spicy and cherry notes. They must be aged for at least two years, one of which must be in oak barrels.
RIOJA WINES TO TRY Viña Zaco 2012 is a contemporary wine that doesn’t fit into the typical classification for Rioja. Aged anywhere from 8 to 12 months in oak, this is a bright wine with fresh berries, licorice and undertones of spice.
Reservas are more lush and concentrated than Crianzas. The wines are subtle and intense, filled with earthy, leathery and dried leaf notes. Made only in exceptional years, these wines are aged three years, one of which must be in oak. Gran Reservas are extremely rare, elegant and refined wines, made only in exceptional years and from the best vineyards. These wines are aged the longest—five years, two of which must be in oak.
Typically Rioja wines are aged longer than any other wines in the world. In fact, the Marqués de Murrieta Vineyard released their 1942 Gran Reserva in 1983. That takes patience!
Viña Pomal 2011 is a Crianza with a classic feel with a modern update, with sweet cherry and violet notes combined with red fruit and coffee. The palate is smooth and structured with soft tannins.
Viña Pomal, Alto de la Caseta 2010 is a Reserva wine that is picked two weeks earlier than elsewhere, as the climate is warmer. Always aged in French oak, the aromas of the wine are fruity and reminiscent of balsamic, with a well-rounded mouth feel and a minerally long finish.
(left) The gently sloping vineyards of the Terras Gauda Winery offer lush views of vines in every direction. flavorsmagazine.com
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(above) The Legaris Tasting Room is a favorite stop for visitors to Ribera del Duero.
R ibera Del Duero
(right) Jorge Bombin, winemaker at Legaris, prides himself on introducing guests to his beloved Spanish wines.
The Ribera del Duero is located about 80 miles north of Madrid, where the land and climate are harsher and more dramatic than the Rioja, so one-quarter fewer grapevines can be planted. The Ribera region’s largely flat, rocky terrain is filled with castles and fortresses perched atop high plateaus that gaze down upon the winding Duero River. It’s breathtakingly gorgeous. Although, like Rioja, winemaking in this region dates back to Roman times, it wasn’t until the 1980s that Ribera began producing exceptional wines. Before that time, cheap, unrefined reds were churned out, aged in unclean barrels and left unattended to ferment at will. Customers simply would show up at the bodegas with containers in hand and buy directly out of the barrels.
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Happily, however, two vineyards — Vega Sicilia and La Pesquera — refused to compromise on quality production and were making some of the finest wines in Spain. In fact, their bottles were among the most expensive wines in Spain. Vega Sicilia’s Unico, a powerful, full-bodied and mystical wine, still is made here. As word — and bottles — got out, other Spaniards sat up and took notice, and investors started to see Ribera del Duero as the great opportunity it was. Today there are over 250 wineries scattered throughout the region. In 1982, the region got its own appellation DO (Denominación de Origen), was upgraded to DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in 2008, and in 2012 it was named Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. flavorsmagazine.com
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RIBERA DEL DUERO WINE STYLES As you can imagine, a friendly rivalry exists between Rioja and Ribera, each state asserting that they produce the finest wines of Spain. Ribera wines tend to be bolder and more rustic than those of Rioja. Most wines tend to be deeply concentrated, meaty, robust, fleshy, ripe and well structured. They are made mainly with the Tinto Fino grape, a genetic variation of Tempranillo that has adjusted to the harsher climate. Ribera winemakers occasionally blend with Albariño, Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot — grapes that also are grown in this region. As in Rioja, the majority of Ribera wines are aged for long periods, mainly in American oak barrels. Note: Wines of Pesquera are “masculine” wines that are never filtered; the famed winemaker Alejandro Fernandez says filtering a wine is “like pushing a fat man through a keyhole — the body is inevitably changed.”
RIBERA DEL DUERO WINE CLASSIFICATIONS In general, there are the same classifications as in Rioja, although the house of Vega Sicilia has introduced three additional classifications for its own wines. Valbuenas are big, bold wines that are composed mostly of Tempranillo, with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon balancing them out. Notes of dark berries, tobacco and spice are prevalent. The wines must be aged a minimum of five years.
Unico (“unique”) is a deep, rich, outrageous wine brimming with dark fruit and earthy undertones, often boasting a hint of truffles. The wine is aged for as long as it takes, which can be up to 10 or 20 years. It’s simply bottled once the winemaker feels it is ready to drink. It’s composed mostly of Tempranillo, with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon added to the mix. Reserva Especial is a blend of the three best Unico vintages, aged up to 30 years. Fewer than 500 cases are produced annually. If Vega Sicilia’s winemaker is dissatisfied with the quality of the harvest in any year, the winery will refuse to produce a single bottle of Unico. This has happened four times in the last two decades: 1992, 1993, 1997 and 2001! If you ever get your hands on one of these — grab two and call me.
RIBERA DEL DUERO WINES TO TRY Legaris Reserva 2010 has a very deep garnet color. This wine is loaded with blackberries and toasty, spicy notes. Pesquera Ribera del Duero Reserva 2010 features intense aromas of dark berries, balsam wood and espresso; exotic spices perfume this wine while savory flavors of sweet, ripe fruit and spices frame the palate. The lush and broad flavors lead to a silky, long and velvety finish. Legaris Calmo 2009 is 100% Tempranillo. This intense, aromatic wine is filled with ripe fruit. Perfectly balanced with a long, gorgeous finish, it is aged 18 months in French oak.
SPAIN’S QUALITY WINE CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM Vino de Mesa (“table wine”). Although this is considered the lowest classification, many amazing wines are designated simply as table wines. Easy to drink, refreshing and fun, these are our everyday wines, which can be blended from grapes from a variety of locations. Vino de la Tierra – VT or VdlT (“wine of the country”). The quality level, just above Vino de Mesa, offers a wine of a particular location with flavors expressive of that locale. Vinos de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica – VCIG or VC (wines that are typical of the geographical region). This category is new as of 2003 and holds all the wines that fall between the VT and DO. After five years as a VCIG, the region can apply for the DO. Denominación de Origen – DO (“designation of origin”). This classification contains the mainstream quality wines and until 1988 this was the top rung. Denominación de Origen Calificada – DOC or DOCa (“designation of origin quality”). This category was created in 1988, following Spain’s entry into the EU, and contains higher quality wines than the DO. There are presently two regions that hold this classification in Spain, Rioja and Priorat. Vino de Pago – VP (“wine of the vineyard”). This is another new category created in 2003. These wines are from a single estate perceived as one of the great estates of Spain that nevertheless exists outside the DO classification. The wine must not only be grown on the estate but also bottled there. Somewhat like the Super Tuscans in Italy, this category contains many interesting and innovative wines made by winemakers who play outside the “rules.”
(above) The main winery building at Legaris, in Ribera del Duero, boasts ultra-modern design, while the vines themselves are ancient. flavorsmagazine.com
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R ías Baixas
(right) Diego Pinilla is the winemaker at Bodegas Bilbaínas in Rioja.
Some of Spain’s most exciting white wines are produced in Rías Baixas, located in the region of Galicia, just north of Portugal. Geographically close to the Atlantic Ocean, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela once was thought to be near the end of the world; thousands of intrepid pilgrims still follow the trail of the Camino de Santiago, which begins in the town of the same name. Wines have been produced in this region for centuries. It is believed that the Albariño grape was introduced to the area in the 12th century by the Cistercian monks of the Monastery of Armenteira. It’s a good thing that wine is plentiful in this region, since the Gallegos, the people of Galicia, drink
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(above) The Bodegas Bilbaínas Winery boasts the largest area of underground cellars in the region and the largest area of vineyards in Haro, the capital of La Rioja province.
more wine than any other Spaniards. In the past they quickly drank every drop produced, so no money was made and no improvements were undertaken. It wasn’t until the 1970s that their wine was even filtered, so most bottles were cloudy and rustic. They simply stored the bottles standing up so the sediment would settle in the bottom and carefully drank away. As the more modern and wealthy Gallegos traveled throughout the rest of Spain and tasted the Rías Baixas wines’ quality, a new surge of winemakers descended upon the region. Similar to the Ribera, it wasn’t until recently — the 1990s, in fact — that wines of quality have been produced in the Rías Baixas Region. flavorsmagazine.com
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RÍAS BAIXAS WINE STYLES Albariños, the main wine of Rías Baixas, are in a class of their own. They’re not as fullbodied as a Chardonnay, as mineral-forward as a Riesling, nor as grassy and herbaceous as a Sauvignon Blanc; these wines taste peachy, with almond and honeysuckle notes. Light and creamy on the palate, they are neither fermented nor aged in wood, resulting in a clean, crisp, acidic wine. They are loved for their pure vibrancy, an expression of their homeland.
RÍAS BAIXAS WINE CLASSIFICATIONS No classifications exist, as the wines are meant to be drunk once bottled.
RÍAS BAIXAS WINES TO TRY Bágoa do Miño Albariño is an elegant expression of 100% estate-grown and hand-harvested Albariño. It’s clean and bright, lemon yellow in color with a complex nose of tree fruits highlighting green apple and tropical fruits that follow through to a soft finish. Val do Sosego 2013 is a tart, lively wine loaded with delicious orange peel, grapefruit, honeysuckle and light minerals. It’s a lovely starter wine to open the evening. Abadia de San Campio is an intense and crisp wine filled with citrus and white fruit (bananas and sweet pear), which pairs well with shellfish and Asian cuisine.
Although you may have to take a trip to Spain to try these wines, some are available around town. Just check with your local wine retailer.
(above) Lush Tempranillo vines in the Bilbaínas Winery, Rioja. flavorsmagazine.com
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