LIFESTYLE AND ENTERTAINING | TRAVEL
WEEKEND IN BUDAPEST PARIS OF THE EAST
W R I T T E N BY D O N N A B RO U S S E AU
(above) The Széchenyi thermal baths are a must-visit spot in Budapest.
When I decided to take a short adventure over to Budapest (pronounced “Budapesht”) to escape the dreary rains of summer, I had two things on my mind: Exactly how many forints (HUF’s) were in a dollar (answer: 280), and should I drop my bag in the lively Pest or opt for the quieter Buda?
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udapest, hungary, is easy to navigate, as it’s basically divided into two distinct parts by the river Danube, which winds north to south through the city. To many, the bustling Pest in the East is the place to be — it’s swarming with tourists, packed full of “ruin” bars (derelict and ramshackle industrial spaces transformed into cool watering holes), Baroque palaces, trendy shopping, quirky coffee shops and Michelin-starred restaurants. Buda in the West is much quieter, more stately and hilly, and contains the romantic and dazzling cobblestone streets of Castle Hill (Várhegy), the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Buda Castle District.
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I had a plan. I opted to stay in Buda, at the Hilton perched on the hill right next to the castle, with an amazing view of the Neo-Gothic Hungarian Parliament across the Danube in Pest. That way, I could amble down the hill to tour the city each day and would be forced to hike back up the castle road each night. I hoped the trek would earn me an extra shot of Tokaji, the delicious Hungarian dessert wine whose sweetness is measured in a unit called a Puttonyos. With no time to dawdle, I grabbed a pile of forints and hiked down the castle roads before crossing the dramatic Chain Bridge, the first permanent stone bridge connecting Pest and Buda. flavorsmagazine.com
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My first stop was the Great Market Hall (aka Central Market Hall) at the Pest end of Szabadság Bridge, to combine a little food shopping with people watching. As I walked through the doors of the grand three-story hall my eyes, nose and belly were delightfully assaulted by hanging garlands of deep red paprika peppers, garlic, salamis and sausages, cases of fresh pastries, tins of goose liver, goulash spices, saffron and Hungarian wines. I crammed as much as I could possibly carry into my backpack (don’t worry: I paid for them first) while munching on a lángos, a deep-fried disk-shaped chewy bread slathered with a garlicky sour cream, topped with grated cheese and sprinkled with fried ham. I washed it down with a small glass of potent pálinka, Hungarian brandy. Whew! Before leaving, I had to pop down to the basement to see the pickle parlor where jars upon jars of smiling pickles lined the walls. I decided to work off some of my recently ingested calories and strolled along the Danube past the Viking River Cruise ships lining the banks before heading to the Hungarian Parliament Building. The dazzling white building was partially inspired by the Palace of Westminster and designed by a well-known Hungarian architect, Imre Steindl. The construction of the Parliament Building began in 1885 and took 19 years to complete. Forty million bricks, as well as half a million precious stones and 40 kilograms (88 pounds) of gold were used in the construction. Stretching 268 meters (879 feet) along the Danube embankment, embellished with white Neo-Gothic turrets and arches, it is a spectacular landmark on the Pest side. Rationalizing that surely I’d worked off all of the calories from that tiny, tiny lángos I nibbled on
(left) Do I have enough forints for a Coke? (below) A time-honored tradition, the Neo-Baroque Széchenyi thermal baths are an iconic experience in Hungary.
so many hours ago, I decided it was time for a late lunch. The burgeoning culinary scene in Budapest has something for everyone, from the rustic, charming restaurants (called csárda), which feature humble regional dishes, to Michelin-starred restaurants and international gems such as Nobu. I chose the Michelin-starred Borkonyha, or “wine kitchen.” With that name, how could I resist? Modern and airy with bustling patios, the restaurant features homegrown specialties and more than 200 domestic wines. My lunch companions and I indulged in veal cheek ravioli, rabbit terrine, crispy goose leg atop a humongous slice of
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(above) Sweet lángos — which one should I try? They are worth the calories, every time.
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Foie gras stuffed ravioli at Borkonyha “wine kitchen.”
(above) A smiling row of pickles lining the shelves of Central Market Hall are a sight to see.
(above) A work by Hungarian sculptor Imre Varga.
(above) Just a few goodies purchased at the Central Market Hall.
silky goose liver and a screamingly fresh dish featuring trout pulled from the water just hours before. All was enjoyed with a lovely bottle of Szepsy Furmint from a local winery. After waddling back up the hill and taking a quick nap to recover, we spent the evening indulging in a wine tasting at the Faust Wine Cellar. The stone cellar is part of the vast labyrinthine system of tunnels winding underneath Buda castle. Gábor Nagy, the owner and sommelier, led us on an amazing exploration of the tastes of the Hungarian wine region. I admit the 54 steps
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leading back up to the castle were more than a little challenging. The next morning we wandered around the cobblestone streets of Castle Hill (Várhegy) taking in the Gothic Matthias Church (Mátyástemplom), the Neo-Romanesque Fisherman’s Bastion (Halászbástya), and the Buda Royal Palace (Királyi Palota). Lunch was spent in a charming csárda, Hungarikum Bistro, where the goulash (gulyás) soup with noodles, stuffed cabbage, and knuckle of pork were outstanding. The pálinka, a local brandy, revived our flagging energy and we were off! Since Budapest is called “The City of Baths” I headed over to Central Park (Pest) for a brief visit to the Neo-Baroque Széchenyi thermal baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe, housing more than 18 pools. It’s quite a sight: older men hang about playing chess, all while immersed in the steaming water. Many of the famous Budapest baths are on the Buda side, like the Rudas, Király, Rácz, and Gellért baths; this is the one and only exception in Pest. I spent the afternoon enjoying the architecture, street art, and the beautiful Heroes’ Square, where I came across the famous “Tree of Life” in the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park just outside the Great Synagogue. A stunning Holocaust memorial, each silver leaf of the tree is engraved with the name of a victim. It’s breathtaking. After making it back up the hill, we decided to stay close to the hotel and have a light meal and a glass of Takler Bikaver Reserve, a surprisingly robust red wine typically referred to as “Bull’s Blood,” at PestBuda Bistro. The next day we ventured a little farther out of town to Szentendre, a quaint little artist’s town located just 13 miles upriver from Budapest. flavorsmagazine.com
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Gulyás (Goulash)
Adapted from a recipe provided by Tibor Fulopp, Hungarian historian and my lovely guide around Budapest Yield: 8 servings 3 1/2 1/3 5 3 2 3 1 2 5 2 2
pounds beef chuck roast or similar, chopped into bite-sized pieces cup flour salt and pepper to taste tablespoons canola oil medium onions, diced (about 3 cups) cloves garlic, chopped tablespoons Hungarian paprika (sweet) tablespoon caraway seeds tomatoes, diced medium carrots, sliced into bite-sized rounds medium parsnips, sliced into bite-sized rounds large potatoes, cubed Csipetke (pinched pasta), optional
Bring the meat to room temperature. Place in large bowl and toss with flour, liberally seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large pot (preferably a Dutch oven). On medium heat brown the outside of the meat in small batches, removing the meat to a bowl as it becomes browned. Add more oil as required.
We strolled through the shops and purchased a beautiful hand-carved 4-foot-long wooden bowl. Our delicious choice for lunch, Rab Ráby, was founded in 1982 by Németh János and his family while the Iron Curtain still existed. We indulged in a steaming copper pot filled with Hungarian goulash (gulyás) washed down with the local beer while we took in the array of old curiosities crammed into every imaginable nook and cranny. Faux pas ALERT: Don’t dare to clink your glasses of beer in celebration — there is an urban legend in Hungarian culture that Austrian generals clinked their beer glasses to celebrate the execution of Hungarian rebel generals, the 13 Martyrs of Arad, in 1849. Outside, as I bit into a Kürtőskalács from a street vendor (a famous Hungarian pastry made with
a sweet yeast dough wrapped around a truncated cone–shaped baking spit, rolled in sugar, brushed with butter, then baked over charcoal cinders until it is golden brown), I sadly realized it was time to head back into town to catch our flight home. Our visit to Budapest was much too quick, but as I packed my suitcase with all my souvenirs I knew I would be back to this clean, safe, breathtaking city. Plus, I was taking something with me: a whole new appreciation for Hungarian cuisine and a terrific goulash recipe.
Borkonyha borkonyha.hu Faust Wine Cellar facebook.com/FaustWineCellar Hungarikum Bistro hungarikumbisztro.hu Pest-Buda Bistro pestbudabistro.hu Rab Ráby rabraby.hu
Once all the meat has been browned reduce heat to low and add in onions. Sweat the onions to release their flavor but do not brown. Should take approximately 15-20 minutes. Add in the garlic and cook for a few minutes to release the flavor. Remove from the heat and add the paprika and caraway seeds. Return to low heat and cook until flavors are nicely mingled. Should take about 5 minutes.
Flavors Pairing Suggestion: 2013 Claus Preisinger Zweigelt
Add the browned meat back into the pot and mix in with the flavorful onion mixture. Add 8 cups water and keep cooking, over low heat, for approximately 3 hours or until the meat is cooked and fork-tender. Add the tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes and cook for about 15 more minutes, or until they are tender (being careful not to overcook them). Taste the soup and add more salt and pepper, if needed. Serve on its own or with Csipetke (pinched pasta).
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