WINE TRENDS
Cava Craving BREAK OUT THE FLUTES Written by Donna Brousseau
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(top) The lush landscape of the Segura Viudas Winery is postcard-perfect; (above) Juicy sunripened Cava grapes hanging from the vines.
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here’s just something about spring. Whenever it arrives in your city or country, the fever is welcomed by all. Here in Atlanta the streets burst alive with a myriad of stunning, sweet-smelling blooms that playfully herald the season. It’s exhilarating, invigorating and surprising. It’s a time of renewal and rebirth, as flower bulbs start poking up through the sun-warmed earth, newly planted crops begin to sprout, trees explode into a riot of blossoms, and everything is fresh and alive. It’s as if Mother Nature is shouting, “Celebrate!” and everyone is happy to do just that, whether they live in Atlanta or Milwaukee, Boston or Mexico. “Mexico?” you ask. Yes, dramatic spring equinox parties pop up throughout Mexico, many held at the spiritual Mayan ruins scattered throughout the country. Bosnians have their Cimburijada or the “Scrambled Egg Festival,” which involves gobbling down copious amounts of eggs, while India celebrates more colorfully with the Holi festival, where revelers throw vividly colored powders at each other. If you are a kid at heart and packing a water gun, you can head for Thailand, where the Songkran
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or “Water Festival” playfully announces the advent of spring. As a cheese lover, I’m interested in the Cooper’s Hill CheeseRolling near Gloucester in England, where attendees race down the hill rolling a round of cheese in hopes of grabbing the prize (a round of cheese, of course!). However, I prefer my own spring celebrations a little closer to home and preferably in a glass, with bubbles. You might be thinking I’m talking about the “Big Bubbly” of the wine world, Champagne. Instead let’s take a look at its Spanish neighbor, Cava. It used to be that this humble bottled amigo, typically perched on the shelf alongside Italy’s Prosecco in local liquor stores, was considered the cheaper, less elegant version of Champagne. Forget about that misconception! Those days are long gone. Amazing Cavas are out there, being made by some of the most innovative and talented winemakers around, and these beauties are giving even the top Champagnes a run for their money.
“THESE BEAUTIES ARE GIVING EVEN THE TOP CHAMPAGNES A RUN FOR THEIR MONEY. How deep are Cava’s roots? Pretty deep. They date back to the 1860s after winemaker Josep Raventos fell in love with sparkling wine in the Champagne region of France. He carted some vines home with him and created a sparkler called “Champán,” (Spanish for “Champagne”). Sound familiar? Well, the European Winemaker’s Union thought so too and forced them to change the name. They eventually did so and called their sparkling wine “Cava,” the Spanish word for “cellar.” Cava is made extensively, though not exclusively, in Catalonia in northeast Spain. The center of production is Penedès, the wine-growing region just south of Barcelona, near the village of flavorsmagazine.com
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CRAVING FOR CAVA?
GIVE THESE A TRY! KILA – 2011 It’s not often you find a vintage Cava and I love this one. It’s a blend of 35% Macabeo, 30% Xarel-lo, 20% Parellada and 15% Chardonnay. You’ll find that it is lightbodied with bright acidity, with hints of green apple and pear, anise, biscuit and candied lemon peel. Each sip ends with a crisp, clean finish. Is a fantastic aperitif to get the party started.
MARQUES DE MONISTROL SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL – SEMI SECO Since this is a sweeter cava, it’s my go-to bubbly when I’m indulging in some triple cream cheeses like Mt. Tam, BrillatSavarin and Pierre Robert, or a double cream like Cremont. You’ll taste apple and stone fruit on the palate, with a fruity and clean finish. It can also handle the heat of spicier dishes.
ARIA ESTATE BRUT This is a complex and delightful wine made from the traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. Grapes are entirely harvested by hand and the wine is aged on its lees for at least 15 months. Fresh pineapple, floral, honey and nuts dominate the wine, which has a lovely bracing acidity. It’s perfect for pairing with food, especially shellfish.
Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut – Freixenet This is a delicious new offering with a modern twist by Freixenet. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Macabeo, Parellada and Pinot Noir. Aged a minimum of 10 months in the cave, this Gran Cuvée has an elegant floral nose, with a touch of ripe pineapple and peach. The taste is fresh and crisp. I often pair this with seafood or drink it on its own.
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. It’s home to many of Spain’s largest production houses, including their two major and talented producers: Codorníu and Freixenet. Last summer I had the good fortune to explore this region (it was the trip of a lifetime — see the sidebar for more details). With my interest piqued, I’m ready to share a crash course in Cava.
So how is Cava made? Just like Champagne, Cava uses the méthode traditionnelle, in which the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. This secondary fermentation is accomplished by adding a mixture of sugar and yeast, called the liqueur de triage, to the blended still wine. This wine is then bottled and capped, with a cap similar to a beer or soda cap, not a cork. The yeast acts on the sugar and the resulting carbon dioxide remains trapped in the bottle. The best Cavas are usually left “on their yeast” for several months, even up to several years. At the end of this process the yeast can be disgorged (or left in the bottle if desired) by freezing a small amount of liquid in the neck of the bottle, removing the plug of ice and cap, topping off with liqueur d’expédition — commonly a little sugar, a practice known as dosage, if desired — which will determine the level of sweetness. The final step is to close the bottle with the traditional cork and muselet, or wire cage.
WHAT TO DO WITH ALL THOSE CORKS?
SAVE THEM! flavorsmagazine.com
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Write the date, the occasion and your companions’ names on the cork for a wonderful keepsake.
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How does Cava differ?
What to try?
Other than each individual vintner’s viticulture and vinification practices, which clearly affect the finished wine, the grapes and the temperature also have a huge impact. Typically the three grapes used are indigenous to the Catalan region: Xarel-lo (for body, structure and acidity), Parellada (for smoothness), and Macabeo (for the floral, appley notes). Often now, you will see Cava made from 100% Chardonnay or a blend of the typical “Champagne” grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These grapes are producing Cavas with more characteristics of traditional Champagne. The weather also significantly affects the wines. It’s much warmer in Spain than in France, which translates into more full-bodied, nuanced sparkling wines with Mediterranean accents, typically less fruity and filled with citrus and earthy notes. These flavors make Cava a delicious and exotic accompaniment for food. I love to pair mine with shellfish, rich and creamy sauces and, most importantly, salty potato chips.
Cava is made in a variety of styles, including:
EXPLORE THE CAVA TRAIL
• Brut Nature, with up to 3 grams of sugar per liter, no added sugar. • Extra Brut, with up to 6 grams of sugar per liter. • Brut, with up to 12 grams of sugar per liter. • Extra Seco, with 12 to 17 grams of sugar per liter. • Seco (dry), which contains between 17 and 32 grams of sugar per liter. • Semiseco (semi-dry), which contains between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per liter. • Dulce (sweet), with more than 50 grams of sugar per liter. So it really depends on your mood, what you’re eating and whom you’re with. Just explore, have fun, visit your favorite wine stores, restaurants — or even Spain — and order a bottle. You can’t go wrong. Saludos!
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It may seem cool to see the bubbles fly when you pop a cork, but in fact you are wasting all the winemakers’ hard work and reducing the carbonation, which can affect the flavor. Here’s a primer for how to do it right. • Let the bottle rest before you pop the cork! Think of a can of soda, and you’ll get the idea. • Carefully remove the wire cage that is holding down the cork. Each cage has six twists or three full twists. Aim the bottle neck away from yourself and guests, please. You don’t want to injure someone! • Turn the bottle, not the cork. • Forget the loud sound—that’s for amateurs! Position the bottle at 45 degrees, turn the bottle and carefully ease the cork out. You are looking for a sigh, not a pop.
(left) The Codorníu winery, one of the oldest in Spain, features exquisite and charming grounds.
The storied Cava Trail is a short 45-minute train ride from Barcelona. You just hop on the train at Plaza Cataluña in Barcelona and head for the quaint village of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Before you know it, you will be leaving the industrial outskirts of town behind and your eyes will be met with the breathtaking saw-toothed Montserrat mountain range, which leads into the rolling hills and valleys of the vineyards. Hop off the train and you can’t miss the start of the trail, as the colorful Freixenet Cava House is right across the street. Codorníu, with its amazing underground tunnels, is just down the road and several other cava cellars are sprinkled throughout. After all that hard work tasting those delicious Cavas, stop for lunch at Ticus in the village. It’s a delightful restaurant with a bargain-priced prix fixe menu featuring local wines — Cava, of course! — and Catalan specialties. A scrumptious end to a spectacular day before a quick hop back to Barcelona.
OPEN A BUBBLY BOTTLE PROPERLY
The Codorníu Cava barrel welcomes visitors as they arrive at the winery, which is over 500 years old.
The Freixenet vineyards are positioned in the shadow of the stunning saw-toothed Montserrat Mountain.
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