Explorer May-June 2018

MAY - JUN 2018

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Singapore’s Top Island Escapes

TRAVEL DRONES

LONDON HOTELS

BEYOND THE ONSENS

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

W

elcome to the latest issue of Explorer Magazine, the environmentally-

friendly digital magazine for true

world wanderers. We can’t believe

how quickly 2018 is going by; it seems like only yesterday we were welcoming in a new year and now it’s almost

past, and what a wide range of adventures we’ve had in the meantime. In this issue we visit Melbourne, a city

that’s often regarded as Australia’s cultural capital. From gourmet dining and eclectic cocktail bars to world-class arts spaces, local Scott Podmore shows us why the city

has been named the most livable city several times in a

row. Another city that always has plenty to offer travellers is Singapore but be sure to leave time to visit one of the

idyllic islands located off the Lion City’s coast, as Laura A

H Elliot discovers. We also visit some of London’s coolest boutique hotels before venturing to the Solomon Islands,

one of the Pacific’s last frontiers and a destination that has a rich history and even richer seas. Whatever your plans, there’s no better time than now to seek new experience,

new destinations and to meet the people that make them so remarkable.

Safe Travels,

David Leung Publisher

Contributors

Scott Podmore is a Melbourne-based writer, award-winning journalist and editor, photographer, videographer/producer and bestselling author.

Grace Brewer studied Journalism in the UK before making the leap to Hong Kong where she covers the region's dining, style, fashion and travel scene for Artemis Communications' titles, including Alpha Men Asia, Explorer Magazine, JETSETTER and The Art of Business Travel.

No matter the language barrier, perceived danger, altitude, fashion faux pas, or ingested gluten, Laura A H Elliott writes to inspire while making her home in the world.

WORLD IN PICS

Locales That Arctic flowers provide a contrast to the other worldly landscapes of South Georgia Island.

Credit: Chimu Adventures

Paris continues to top the charts as one of the world’s most soughtafter destinations.

Credit: Busabout

From captivating beaches to lands los us giddy th 4

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WORLD IN PICS

hat Inspire Sri Lanka’s stunning coastline continues to be a major draw card.

Credit: G Adventures

Florida’s beaches made the top spots in the US in a recent survey.

Credit: Visit Florida

The Mudgee Food & Wine Festival remains one of the hottest dates on the Australian foodie calendar.

Credit: Mudgee Wine

Far from the crowds of Yosemite Valley, visitors can experience the abundance of waterfalls up-close and personal in the Hetch Hetchy section of the national park.

Credit: Tuolumne County

The Taj Mahal at dawn.

Credit: Luxury Gold

st in time, these are the images that get his season.

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

Green Man

August 16-19, 2018 Wales, UK

Wales' biggest music event combines good music, good times and good causes, with the beautiful backdrop of the Brecon Beacon Mountains. This ethically-minded family festival offers weekend camping amongst Welsh forests, waterfalls and rivers, whilst putting on a lineup full of indie and folk music names. This year’s event includes Fleet Foxes, Teenage Fanclub and 90s rock band front man John Grant. www.greenman.net

Lollapalooza

September 8-9, 2018 Berlin, Germany

Since its creation in the 90s, this US-based festival has continued to grow across the globe; Berlin became the first European city to host the musical event in 2015 and now

welcomes over 85,000 festival-goers every year. Nicknamed ‘Lolla Berlin’, the event will take place at the city’s Olympiastadion and Olympiapark, hosting acts like The Weekend, Kraftwerk 3D and Liam Gallagher. www.lollapaloozade.com

Feira Franca

August 31 – September 1, 2018 Pontevedra, Spain Located in Galicia, Spain´s northwestern

province, this medieval festival is based on celebrations of the month-long tax-free market granted by King Henry IV. Today, locals and visitors alike dress up as sixteenth century citizens and attend medieval feasts where Spanish specialties from the middle ages can be sampled. www.visit-pontevedra.com

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

October 8-17, 2018 Phuket, Thailand

Celebrating the Chinese community's abstinence from meat during the ninth lunar month is believed to honour the gods and help worshippers retain good health. The festival is famous for its extreme festivities of piercing participants’ faces with swords, metal poles, wooden sticks and other objects like guns and umbrellas. Other acts of self-mortification are undertaken during the ten-day festival and visitors and spectators are welcomed. www.phuket.com

Belize Carnival September 8, 2018 Belize City, Belize

Known as Fiesta de Carnaval, this energetic celebration of Belizean culture is a key attraction throughout September. The carnival consists of a road march of men and women dressed in brightly coloured Caribbean costumes, a contest to crown carnival king and queen, and a "jump up” party held immediately after the parade. www.belizecarnival.bz

Festival Kreol

October 25-31, 2018 Mahe, Seychelles

Packed with colourful performances, the three main islands of Mahe, Praslin and La Digue celebrate the Kreol way of life, paying homage to their ancestors. Musical shows, processions, and international artists from all over the Indian Ocean team up to entertain crowds during the last week of October. Enjoy activities such as painting and poetry and taste traditional cuisine while soaking up the rich island culture. www.seychelles.travel

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NEWS

Hit the winds Learn to kitesurf like a pro in Sri Lanka with the new Slice of Life Clinics with kitesurfing legend Tom Court. KiteWorldwide will host two sevennight watersports trips in July, teaching kiters of all abilities. Stay in one of the 16 rooms located at the beautiful Dreamspot Eco Lodge accommodation at the edge of the water. The trip will offer five days of intensive training with Fit for Function workouts every morning and one-toone sessions on the water. The lagoon is great for kiting progression, with the ocean just the other side of the sand dunes and plenty of other kiting spots to explore nearby. For non-kiters, Wilpattu National Park is just across the bay, and excursions include a jungle safari, and dolphin and whale-watching. www.kiteworldwide.com

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NEWS Fun for the Family Warner Bros World Abu Dhabi will open its doors to the public in July. The indoor theme park will feature six immersive ‘lands’, including DC's Metropolis, protected by the likes of Superman; and Batman’s Gotham City. The nostalgic Cartoon Junction features beloved Looney Tunes characters, while The Flintstones’ Bedrock, animated storyland Dynamite Gulch, and Art Deco-inspired Warner Bros Plaza portray the golden age of Hollywood. Yas Island’s new attraction will hold a total of 29 state-of-the-art rides, interactive family-friendly attractions, and unique live entertainment, as well as a variety of authentic restaurants and shopping outlets. www.wbworldabudhabi.com

Marriott’s New Bali Hotel Discover the Island of the Gods from the convenientlylocated Fairfield by Marriott Bali Legian, which recently opened on the island. Situated near Legian Beach, this

newly-opened

family-friendly

hotel

provides

travellers with an affordable stay, seamless service and welcoming hospitality. Featuring simple, intuitive design with natural wooden furnishings and traditional Balinese touches, the 163 guestrooms include nine spacious junior and grand suites with whirlpool bathtubs. The Pool Bar is a great space to unwind with a refreshing selection of drinks and tapas-style bites, and guests can savor both local Balinese cuisine and international favorites at the all-day dining restaurant Tebu Merah.

Attractions like Double Six Beach, Kuta Beach, and the 3D Trick Art Museum are close by and local nightlife is just a short walk away. www.marriott.com

All Hands on Deck Mandurah Cruises’ new Wild Seafood Experience allows passengers to pull rock lobster pots from the Indian Ocean, before the crew serve up their catch at a barbeque buffet lunch. Western rock lobster (or crayfish) is renowned as an international delicacy and Western Australia's fastest growing regional city, Mandurah, has been a crayfishing centre for more than 100 years. This new three-hour tour teaches passengers about the rock lobster industry whilst allowing them to experience unique water and dining tours aboard the luxury cray boat, Reel Affair. www.mandurahcruises.com.au

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NEWS

Beachfront Living

Saadiyat Island, the world-class cultural destination in Abu Dhabi, home to the recently-opened Louvre Abu Dhabi, will welcome the Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort this November. The new resort will boast three infinity pools that merge into sand dunes; eight villas with private pools; and 64 suites, including six panoramic suites offering expansive floor-to-ceiling views of the ocean. Occupying a beautiful beach location on Saadiyat Island, this 293-room hotel will feature stylish contemporary architecture, with subtle marine themed-touches. Leave time for a bite at the chic all-day dining venue White for buffets and live cooking

stations; or Mare Mare for fresh and authentic Italian summer food. www.jumeirah.com

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NEWS New Hotel for Lion City

Singapore’s Ann Siang House has opened as the latest of 8M Real Estate’s restoration projects. The renovated 1920s shop house, which housed the previous Club Hotel, now boasts 20 luxurious guest rooms that define a new modern style. Located in historic Chinatown, a short walk from the Business District, Ann Siang House offers guests the benefits of personalised service with home comforts for extended stays. The hotel’s new format has added extra common areas, improved in-room amenities, with several rooms featuring fullyequipped kitchenettes and private balconies; a new selection of bespoke handmade furniture and artwork, and a new bold vision for the exterior. www.annsianghouse.com

Cycle Safari

Gondwana Game Reserve on South Africa’s Garden Route has opened four new mountain bike trails, offering cycling as a complimentary activity for guests. These new routes provide a fun and active way for guests to enjoy close-range game viewing of non-dangerous wildlife, whilst working up a sweat. Located in Gondwana’s 1,000-hectare protected area, the new trails have been designed for all levels of fitness, including families with smaller children. Cycle through open grass plains and sub-tropical thicket valleys and find yourself surrounded by zebra, giraffe, and herds of eland and impala. Mountain bikes are provided free-of-charge for both adults and children. www.gondwanagr.co.za

A Foodie Adventure

A new Tasmanian travel experience is set to provide the best of Australia’s southernmost island with four days of unforgettable feasting. Come June, gourmet adventure trail company Feast and Fossick combines luxury local food and wine experiences with a choice of two, two-day adventures in Hobart and Bruny Island. Join guided tours introducing guests to local produce and gourmet dishes, or explore the area on a sea kayaking trip and wilderness cruise. Eat your way through each day, and then relax at private, luxury accommodation Macq 01, Hobart’s waterfront storytelling hotel, or the private Adventure Bay Retreat on Bruny Island. www.feastfossicktasmania.com.au

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A DAY IN

The World’s

Most Liveable City

Another year and another most liveable city award suggests Melbourne truly is irresistible. But don’t worry if you can’t pack up shop and move to this Great Southern Land: even a quick dash to Melbourne opens the door to a melting pot of cultural experiences like no other place in the world, says local

Scott Podmore.

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A DAY IN

8am Crown Metropol is as modern as tomorrow and is complemented by impeccable customer service.

The experience starts with a red carpet-esque vibe from the minute you’re greeted by the doormen. An urban oasis blending stylish accommodation with contemporary luxury, the Metropol is set on the Yarra River and is only a stone’s throw from Flinders Station, the Melbourne Exhibition Centre, shopping, dining, sporting and cultural precincts. The luxe rooms from the eighth floor up are exquisite, with The King suites featuring spa baths, plush king beds, and views of Port Phillip Bay. Once settled in, head to the recently renovated pool area (above) on the 27th floor to help justify the guilty pleasures of breakfast. www.crownmelbourne.com.au

9am Overnight flights can smack you in the senses, but the seven-time world’s most liveable city offers a guaranteed magical breakfast experience at every turn. Detour to the grungy northern suburb of Fitzroy, where a venue called Rustica Sourdough Bakery offers a breakfast journey of Willy Wonka proportions.

Expect the unexpected from the menu, including the sweet-tooth’s dream concoction of French toasted donuts, Nutella, fresh banana, Hazelnut crumb, MAY - JUNE 2018

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A DAY IN

strawberry cream, Oreo and Nutella ice cream,

across more than 40 countries. The experience also

topped off with pop rocks. If that doesn’t awaken

employs more than 10,000 blind or partially blind

your senses, nothing will.

people globally.

www.rusticasourdough.com.au

www.dialogueinthedark.com.au

11am

3pm

Australia's greatest sporting moments are

Switch the lights back on and recharge your senses

immortalised at the National Sports Museum

with a bite and a craft brew at Ponyfish Island, a bar

and a trip here is sure to ignite kids’ passions.

set on its namesake Yarra River island, accessible

Families can put their skills to the test in the

from the Pedestrian Bridge at Southbank. The

interactive gallery, Game On! before touring the

island takes its name from the mythical Ponyfish

adjacent Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG); with

said to swim in the Yarra. City slickers and hipsters

access to otherwise off-limits areas. from the player

unite here for a seasonal menu of bar snacks and

change rooms to the edge of the hallowed turf, tours

stunning riverscapes. www.ponyfish.com.au

offer a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the stadium's inner sanctum. www.nsm.org.au

1pm

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5.30pm It would be remiss not to block out some time for a stroll through Melbourne’s grunge-artsy cobbled

There’s quirky novelty attractions galore in Melbourne;

laneways and bite-sized shopping strips in the

a 15-minute walk to the Docklands precinct leads

heart of town to uncover a rare and unusual shop

to Dialogue in the Dark, a sensory journey in

or two. Venture as far as Lonsdale Street and you’ll

total darkness. You’ll experience Melbourne in a

encounter Wunderkammer, a celebration of weird

new way, in complete darkness, at the side of a

and wonderful scientific paraphernalia. For the full

blind guide. An Australia-first, this social enterprise

assault on the senses think taxidermy, scientific

is brought to you by Guide Dogs Australia and has

instruments, medical equipment, butterflies and

been experienced by more than 10 million people

insects, and fossils. www.wunderkammer.com.au

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A DAY IN the New York-esque ground floor and bustling windowless basement restaurant and sushi bar, or venture up to the first floor for private, kaiseki-style dining at Kuro Kisumé, where The Chablis Bar is a highlight. The food hits the spot on all levels with sashimi, sushi, and elaborate fish dishes that make your heart sing while the drinks list comprises top quality locally-made wines and beers, sitting comfortably alongside world class cocktails. www. kisume.com.au

11pm Those who prefer their watering holes hip, dark and visually overwhelming should head to the Boilermaker House, which is becoming one of Melbourne’s must-be-seen-here late-night cocktail bars. The whisky wall and extensive beer and cocktail lists mean you should entrust your selection to the bar staff who never fail to disappoint with their (charmingly condescending) knowledge and crisp service. The Chocolate martini is award-winning for a good reason. www. boilermakerhouse.com.au

8.30am Built into the side of the city library is Journal Cafe in Flinders Lane, a popular breakfast venue with

7pm

communal wooden tables for spreading out the weekend newspaper while you tear into a wicked

Allow the senses to settle with an ale or two when

bircher muesli with green apples, strawberries,

you take a seat at much lauded cellar bar Golden

yoghurt, honey and chia. Take your pick from either

Monkey on Hardware Lane, one of Melbourne's

fresh juices or the extremely good Romcaffe coffee.

most unique venues. With a mysterious, Old

www.journalcafe.com.au

Shanghai ambiance complemented by swish décor, the venue prides itself on first-class service. Asianinspired tea-infused cocktails stand out most. By 8pm the place is jumping; a local advises some of the hottest musicians and DJs “need to be seen” here. www.goldenmonkey.com.au

8.45 pm Say hello to Melbourne’s hottest new Japanese restaurant, Kisume, which “redefines higher-end dining”, according to owner Chris Lucas. Visually this triple level treat serves up a muted palette of black, grey and buffed metals to let provocative prints from some famous photographers, such as Japan’s Nobuyoshi Araki, steal moments of your attention. Unlike other hot restaurants in the Lucas Group stable (Chin Chin, Hawker Hall, Kong), you can reserve a table here and there’s no pumping music or neon lights. Take your pick of either

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HOTEL INSPIRATION

New Look for Old London Town If London’s on the radar in the months ahead, be sure to try some of the city’s boutique havens. Here’s some of our favourites. By

Nick Walton

The Mandrake The Mandrake, a new independent boutique hotel from entrepreneur Rami Fustok, recently opened in London's Fitzrovia, replete with 34 stylish guest rooms and a chic restaurant from the team behind Hong Kong's Serge et le Phoque.

Inspired by the medicinal properties of the Mandrake plant, the new hotel combines eclectic, vibrant interiors with carefully curated works by Francesco Clemente, Jonas Burgert, and Peter-John de Villiers; with intriguing soundscapes from French sound engineer Pierre-Arnaud Alunni; specially designed scents from Azzi Glasser; and a 30-candle chandelier by Lara Bohinc. The result is an ambience that is intimate, distracting and intriguing at every turn. The hotel’s guest rooms, which include three luxury suites and a dramatic penthouse, are set across four floors, rising up from a striking central courtyard surrounded by hanging gardens of jasmine and passionflower. www.themandrake.com

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HOTEL INSPIRATION

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HOTEL INSPIRATION

Covent Garden Hotel Another breathtaking creation by Firmdale Hotels, the Covent Garden hotel is located in London’s acclaimed theatre district and has the feeling of a refined private home, complete with dignified architecture, aged wood and intimate interiors by designer Kit Kemp. Each of the 58 guest rooms and suites of this Design Hotels member boasts flat screen televisions and Bose entertainment systems – our favourite is the Deluxe Junior Suites with their

Nobu Hotel Shoreditch

cityscape views and granite bathrooms.

A newcomer to the London boutique hotel

the hotel’s private screening room, pour

scene is the Nobu, located just off East

yourself a drink beside the fireplace in

London’s bustling Great Eastern Street.

the Tiffany’s Library, or feast on fresh

A member of Design Hotels, the hotel

local produce in the Brasserie Max.

is the latest in the creative collaboration

www.firmdalehotels.com

between Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, actor and director Robert De Niro, and Hollywood producer Meir Teper. Standing as a stunning juxtaposition to the redbrick buildings and warehouses that define the Shoreditch aesthetic, the hotel is presented in glass, concrete, timber, and bronze, flanked by cantilevered steel beams pointing east in homage to the hotel’s Asian roots. The Nobu’s 148 guestrooms and suites all feature art by local talent Sichi, traditional Japanese tea sets and custom-made yukata robes. Be sure to book well ahead for a table in the 240-seat subterranean restaurant, which serves Nikkei cuisine and Shoreditchinspired libations, or perches at the ten-seat sushi bar or 18-seat Chef’s Table. www.nobuhotelshoreditch.com

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When you return from a day exploring the British capital, take in a movie in

ESSENTIALS

For fans of wireless technology, B&O Play has unveiled the

Beoplay E8, which combine industry leading sound with a seamless design. The splash and dust resistant Beoplay E8 is designed for an effortless listening experience on the move.

Simply take the earphones out of the premium leather charging case, tap on the aluminium encircled touch interface and you are set up to listen to music, switch between tracks, take calls, and activate Transparency Mode and voice commands. With everything controlled by the intuitive touch interface on the earphones, you don’t have to take your smartphone out of your pocket. While the ear buds offer up to four hours of music on one charge, the pocketfriendly charging case provides two additional charges, ensuring the music never has to stop. www.beoplay.com

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ESSENTIALS

rc The first action camera to feature built-in image stabilisation, the Revl Arc takes capturing your adventures to the next level. The crowdfunded action camera uses a motorized gimble to ensure the camera lens stays level, no matter what you’re up to. Boasting a 12-megapixel image senor made by Sony, and the ability to capture 4k video and 30 frames per second and 1080p at 120 frames a second, the camera is shock and waterproof without a housing, and features a replaceable battery, one-button recording, and wifi and Bluetooth connectivity. https://revl.com/

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ESSENTIALS

An alternative take on drone technology from the company that really pioneered the personal drone experience, DJI, the new Mavic Air is an ultra-portable, foldable camera drone that delivers higher performance, more intelligent features and greater creative possibilities than any other consumer drone. Developed with the traveller and outdoor enthusiast in mind, the Mavic Air inherits the best features of DJI's iconic Mavic series with a 4K camera for superior image quality, new QuickShot modes and SmartCapture for easier, more intelligent photo and video capturing, and FlightAutonomy 2.0 with Advanced Pilot Assistance Systems for smarter, safer flight. A marvel of engineering and design, Mavic Air enables limitless exploration wherever adventure takes you. Weighing just 430 grams, the Mavic Air’s folding arms and propellers sit flush against its slender aerodynamic frame, making it so compact that its footprint is nearly the size of a modern smartphone when folded. Its recessed three-axis mechanical gimbal is suspended from dampeners to further reduce vibration providing superior protection and steadier shots with the powerful camera, which houses a 1/2.3-inch CMOS sensor and the equivalent of a 24mm F2.8 lens that captures 12-megapixel stills utilising new HDR algorithms that preserve more highlight and low light details. www.dji.com

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SINGAPORE

Next time you visit Singapore, leave a few days to explore the private island resorts located off the Lion City’s coast. By Laura A H Elliott 22

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SINGAPORE Bawah One of the most anticipated openings of 2017, Bawah Island is now taking bookings from intrepid travellers looking to explore the untouched Anambas archipelago, a clutch of idyllic, pristine coral-wreathed islands a short ferry and 75-minute seaplane ride from Singapore.

Previously uninhabited, Bawah is a marine conservation area comprising five pristine islands, three crystal clear lagoons and enough beaches for an anthropophobic football team. The retreat only allows a maximum of 70 guests at any one time, with those lucky souls accommodated in 35 ecodesigned suites and overwater bungalows, each featuring a beautifully appointed bedroom, spacious bathroom and a relaxing outdoor living area with incredible views across the lagoon.

Designed to give urbanites the opportunity to commune with nature, guests while away the days exploring the archipelago’s vibrant coral gardens or delving into the islands’ untouched primary forest.While the heart of the resort is Bawah’s beach-fronted infinity pool, the perfect spot for sundowners, guests can also unwind with bespoke cocktails at the Grouper Bar, Jules Verne Bar, and Boat House Bar. These uniquelythemed bars are situated at different zones on Bawah, each offering beautiful and distinctive sights of the surrounding islands.

In addition, Bawah houses a woodpanelled, treetop library, where a diverse collection of natural history, architecture, classic literature, maps and guidebooks are available for literary lovers to browse, while nearby, the Tree Top restaurant serves bespoke Asian-fusion cuisine using locallygrown ingredients.

Be sure to leave time for a visit to Aura, the island’s holistic wellness centre, home to an intimate spa and a yoga pavilion, and offering personalised yoga, pilates, meditation, and reiki sessions from sunrise to sunset.

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SINGAPORE

Cempedak Island Just like its exotic namesake fruit, the island reveals the most delicious morsels. Find romance, adventure and wellness in barefoot luxury that thumbs its nose at tech and high-fives elemental luxury––privacy, spaciousness and natural beauty. Welcoming guests sixteen years old and over, this intimate island hideaway features 20 exquisite, bamboo-clad one-bedroom villas, all with stunning views of the South China Sea. Spend your days sailing, kayaking, snorkeling and diving around the island before returning to gourmet dining, complete with an excellent wine selection and imported beers that provide exciting pairings for the restaurant’s Indonesian specialties. Be sure to leave time for a massage at the spa, which helps fund classes in everything from soil management to IT and nutrition for local villagers. www.cempedak.com 24

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SINGAPORE Nikoi Island An hour ferry ride from Singapore, just off the coast of Bintan, Nikoi Island was stumbled upon by Australian expats Andrew and Julia Dixon, who bought it and developed an ultimate ecological, food, wine, and restorative getaway––a down-to-earth outdoor paradise for city dwellers. Beach volleyball and tide pool exploration leads to mountain biking, rock climbing and trekking or simply fish off the jetty at sunset. Come between February and September to spot nesting turtles.

Your host, Yogi, is as equally excited about introducing you to a huge tropical spider as he is mixing a tall cool one at his namesake’s bar. Granite boulders hug the bars, pool and restaurant – home to menus that include the day’s catch and the joy of dining barefoot in the sand – in a gorgeous setting of jungle and white sand beaches, but you might find the most respite in your spacious villa, complete with stunning views of the South China Sea and. www.nikoi.com

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SINGAPORE

Telunas Sail out of Singapore to your island paradise and enjoy encounters with pink dolphins and flying fish on a three-hour journey to the private island of Telunas, the ultimate escape, where jungle and sea frames a deserted cove.

Relax with a massage on the veranda of your overwater sea villa as you admire stunning views of enchanting Sugi Island nearby. Take a swim in the fresh water infinity pool or plunge into clear aquamarine waters from the island’s 10-meter-high diving platform. Jungle treks will break up endless days of sun worshipping, although there’s always the chance to cliff dive the local waterfall if you need a fix of adrenaline.

Kayak or SUP on Kallang Basin’s Indonesian currents or join one of the cooking classes offered by the island’s culinary team, where you can make your own sambal. www.telunasresorts.com

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JAPAN

Beyond

the Onsens As we farewell this year's cherry blossoms, it's time to welcome summer, our favourite time of the year to enjoy Japan's beautiful outdoors. Summer is also prime season for open-air experiences and the perfect time to indulge in outdoor fun in the hot spring town of Kinosaki, home to traditional ryokans, kaiseki dinner experiences, temples, and ancient forests. Here are some of the best day trips to take during your visit to one of Japan’s leading onsen towns.

Sea Kayaking in Takeno Takeno Beach is one of Japan's top 100 beaches with white sand and crystal waters. Paddle out into the Sea of Japan by Sea Kayak and take in the coastline in the most spectacular way.

Ancient Castles in Izushi Visit the ancient castle town of Izushi and be taken back to the days of old Japan. Be sure to check out some of the many local special products such as "Izushi Sara Soba", "Izushi Yaki (pottery)" and "Kiryusaiku".

Visit Farming Communities in Tanto Connect with rural communities in this long established agricultural town nestled away in a mountain valley in northern rural Hyogo. The perfect opportunity to get an insight into the 'real' Japan connecting with communities and being introduced to their way of life.

Explore Caves in Genbudo Genbudo Cave Park consists of five caves that were formed 1.6 million years ago when the lava from a volcanic explosion cooled forming spectacular columnar joints.

Hiking in the Kannabe Highlands Take a hike in the beautiful surroundings of the Kannabe Highlands, where you can see waterfalls and craters among other natural sights. Whilst the Highlands can be visited all year-round, it is particularly charming in summer when visitors can enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and mountain climbing.

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

THE SOUTH PACIFIC PARADISE FOUND The WWII legacy of the Solomon Islands just might be the key to a brighter future for this remote archipelago, discovers

Nick Walton.

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

A

trail of shimmering bubbles in our wake, the hull of the Hirokawa Maru slowly takes form as we descend, first as a faint shadow against the deep blue Pacific waters, and then, as we draw closer, as a towering darkness that threatens

to suck up all the light. As my eyes adjust, the vessel’s sheer size begins to reveal itself; at 156 metres long, the Hirokawa Mari isn’t the largest of the wrecks which litter Ironbottom Sound, a strip of water between the islands of Guadalcanal, Savo and Florida where dozens of ship and aircraft wrecks remain, but it’s one of the most accessible. Caught by American dive bombers in November 1942 while unloading supplies for the occupying Japanese forces on Guadalcanal, the largest island in the Solomon archipelago, the Japanese transport ship now lies on its port side, with its bow in five meters of water and its stern reaching down 60 metres into the darkness.

I’m diving on the Hirokawa with guides from Honiara’s Tulagi Dive, the Solomon Islands’ leading dive company, and a pair of experienced New Zealand underwater videographers. Wreck diving has been a major drawcard for the Solomon Islands for decades and sites like the Hirokawa are ideal for mixed groups; accessible from both boat and beach, the wreck offers divers of all skill levels a mesmerising introduction to the archipelago’s turbulent history – while I enjoy the vivid coral gardens that now cling to the Horokawa’s iron plated hull at 30 metres, and the schools of snapper, fusiliers and lionfish that now call the ship’s foredeck home, the tech divers descend deep into the interior of the doomed vessel, their light rigs tiny beacons penetrating the gloom far below.

The Solomon Islands is a place where time seems to stand still.

A postcard perfect South Seas paradise of over 900 islands, the Solomons lie east of Papua New Guinea and north of Vanuatu, in some of the world’s most fertile waters. During the Second World War the islands saw some of the fiercest fighting in the Pacific campaign; the defining Battle of Guadalcanal, codenamed Operation Watchtower, the 75th anniversary of which took place last August, raged among the undulating jungle-clad hills and coral-wreathed seas surrounding the capital Honiara.

After diving on the Horokawa and a nearby American B17 bomber, its twin cannons now encrusted with coral, we clamber into the back of a flatbed truck and make our way down one of the island’s few roads, through tiny villages of thatch-roofed, stilted huts, the turquoise splendour of the South Pacific to our left, the deep green of Guadalcanal’s lush interior to the right, the capital ahead.

While its rich and tumultuous history has drawn intrepid travellers to the Solomons since the 1970s, there’s much more on offer here than just ghosts of the past. The vibrant Honiara Central Markets is a timeless and fascinating corner of the town, where prices are haggled, and gossip swapped, a gentle sea breeze cooling stall owners dressed in brightly coloured sun dresses, their ebony skin MAY - JUNE 2018

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

glistening in the mid-day heat. At each market stall

Swiss Family Robinson opened a B&B in paradise. The

mountains of taro, breadfruit, cassava and coconuts

only creature comfort in my loft-styled bungalow, which

are stacked beside bags of tiny, fiery chillies, recycled

sleeps four, is an AC power point, and at night I fall

beer bottles filled with natural remedies and oils, and

asleep beneath a mosquito net to the serenade of the

coolers packed with fresh coconut crabs. Down the

lagoon’s waves, lapping just steps away.

road, Coral Sea Resort & Casino is the town’s newest sensation; it’s modern guest rooms, including several

While there’s plenty to do, from surfing and dolphin

luxurious Waterfront Villas, wreath a contemporary

safaris to local village visits, Papatura is especially

Malaysian street food restaurant that wouldn’t look

popular with anglers hoping to catch Spanish

out of place in Hong Kong or Sydney. The new hotel

mackerel, giant trevally, or sail fish among the

and casino is catering to a new generation of affluent

swells that roll down from the Philippines, or to cast

travellers looking to swap the rat race for this forgotten

for mangrove jacks or rare spot tail bass in local

South Pacific Eden.

community-owned rivers. During one fishing cruise, Rolly, one of the resort guides, navigates us between

Such an escape can be found at Papatura Island

the islands of the local Eti Eti people, pointing out

Retreat, located off the coast of Santa Isabel, to the

where the best lobsters can be speared at night, and

northwest of Guadalcanal. To get there I board a

a rocky island where the bodies of defeated enemies

Solomon Airlines twin otter for the 45-minute flight to

would be sent during the Solomon’s head hunting past.

a simple grass strip that once served as a bomber

When I ask if there’s still headhunting he grins a smile

base. Here I’m met by Pete Blanche, a retired builder

red with betel nut. “Not anymore, now we’re Church of

from the Australian Gold Coast who, with wife Marge,

England.”

spent two decades travelling through the Solomon Islands before deciding to make it their home, building

Each night guests come together around the resort

Papatura Island Retreat from scratch on an idyllic

bar, hand-crafted from bamboo and island timber,

300-hectare island fringed by swaying coconut palms

for cold local beers and tall tales of island living told

and white sandy beaches.

by our hosts. "We love this place,” says Marge. “We will be here until we die.” Many guests are frequent

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A blissfully simple hideaway of rustic thatch bungalows

visitors – one Australian woman is in the first week of

connected by a risen timber boardwalk, it’s as if the

a six week stay – giving this beautiful little hideaway

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SOLOMON ISLANDS

the vibe of a remote family summer home. Beyond the bar, the retreat’s dining room serves simple, yet delectable local fare laced with ingredients from the island’s own gardens; that first night, after feasting on potato cakes, coastal fern and tangerine salad, and mud crabs the size of dinner plates, I walk the length of the beach back to my villa under a mesmerising canopy of stars, sheets of amethyst lightning flickering above the horizon.

I’d admit Papatura takes a little getting used to. A world away from a life gone mad with technology, timetables and temptation, there’s no phone access, no wifi, and what little electricity there is, is produced by solar panels. “It’s amazing what such isolation does to these guys, these captains of industry,” Pete tells me over breakfast one morning. “First we encourage them to take off their watches and slowly they adopt to island time and island living and before you know it they’re talking about things that have nothing to do with work!” But adapt I do, slowly finding myself less concerned with signal bars and more concerned with tracking down the hornbills that live in the fig trees at the end of the bay, or watching tissues of cloud cling to the towering mountains of nearby Santa Isabel.

It’s over these mountains I fly again, this time bound

for the island of Malaita. After touching down on another jungle strip and weaving through the village of Auki in a dilapidated local taxi, I meet shy Serah Kei, a native of the Langa Langa Lagoon, where she has built a beautiful little resort atop a traditional coral island. I climb into Serah’s little runabout and begin the 45-minute cruise across the mirrorlike lagoon waters. When a tropical squall passes over I retreat under an umbrella but Serah just smiles as the rain streams down her face, deftly navigating the tiny boat through the torrent. By the time we arrive at her immaculate little resort the sun has emerged, and we’re dry again.

As simple and rustic as Papatura (sans the power points), Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway boasts a different vibe. Encircled by the waters of a lagoon, the setting is so quiet and tranquil it’s almost deafening to my city-accustomed ears. From the sun deck of my lofted bungalow, which sleeps four, fish dart MAY - JUNE 2018

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SOLOMON ISLANDS through spectacular coral gardens only inches below the surface, and beyond, a trio of children in immaculate white uniforms cruise past in a traditional canoe on their way home from school.

The Langa Langa Lagoon is famous for its asi, traditional man-made coral islands constructed by the lagoon’s Kwara'ae or ‘salt water people’ to evade the headhunters of Malaita. Despite Christianity arriving with missionaries in the 1960s, the rich animalism of the lagoon lingers, including the practice of shark worship; priests would call sharks to the surface, believing they were reincarnations of their ancestors, and stranded fishermen would call to the sharks for aid, offering them sacrifices upon a safe return to dry land.

Another fading tradition is that of shell money and Serah guides me through the intricate process of converting four specific shell types into a currency that is used for dowries across the Solomon Islands. Langa Langa is to shell money what Antwerp is to diamonds and Serah’s collective family all contribute to the process of chipping and grinding the shells, using traditional tools to create long necklaces, their different colours representing their value.

That evening, after a dinner of local crayfish and grilled scampi, I watch a bride, wrapped in shell necklaces, journeying across the lagoon to the home of her new husband. She is followed by a flotilla of canoes and runabouts packed with villagers singing and beating drums, the melody lingering over the serene waters of the lagoon with the last of the day’s light.

On my way back to Auki I venture to learn more about the boat building traditions of the Langalanga people. Made for fishing and cargo, the hulls of boats under construction tower above the simple homes of their owners. Built by specialist building crews from heavy vassa wood, these traditional vessels are major investments on the part of the community and often take decades to finish but are also prized throughout the Solomons.

Back in Honiara, I tour the battlegrounds of WWII with Stewart, a local historian, finishing at The Guadalcanal American Memorial, which sits atop one of the hills overlooking Henderson Field, the county’s sole international airport. The Battle of Guadalcanal claimed 50,000 lives, as well as 1,200 aircraft, and 49 ships, bronze plaques in the grounds of the memorial indicating the direction of each vessel’s final resting place in Ironbottom Sound. It’s a dark chapter in the nation’s past, but its legacy, the beauty of these islands, and the inherent hospitality of its people, herald a brighter future to come.

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