Explorer Magazine July-August 2018

JULY- AUG 2018

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Cruise the Ice in Style ETHIOPIAN AIRLINES

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

KISS FROM A ROSE

Publisher’s Letter

W

elcome to the latest issue of Explorer Magazine, the ecofriendly digital travel magazine for true world wanderers. I love this time of year, it seems as if every travel fantasy

is possible. While it’s still balmy in many parts of the northern hemisphere, we’re already thinking about colder climes for everything from skiing to expedition cruising. In the south, they’re already daydreaming about Christmas under the summer sun or escaping the heat and having a snowy celebration in the likes of Prague, London and New York. In this issue we have something for every season, starting in Antarctica, one of the hottest (if you’ll forgive the pun) destinations on the globe. Nick Walton cruises this remote part of the world on a private charter yacht, an increasingly popular way for families and friends to travel together, offering flexibility and privacy in equal measure. We venture to a destination that many assume is always chilly – Victoria in British Columbia, only to find that it’s not always a winter destination.

There’s also time to order authentic dishes in some of Muscat’s top restaurants; to follow travel experiences inspired by one of history’s most endearing blooms, the rose; and to check in at one of South Africa’s most coveted addresses, the Four Seasons The Westcliff in Johannesburg. Wherever you’re traveling and whatever season you’re traveling to, we hope Explorer continues to inspire and invigorate your inner wanderer.

Safe Travels,

David Leung Publisher

Contributors Grace Brewer

Isabelle Liu

Sandra Elliot

studied Journalism in the UK before making the leap to Hong Kong where she covers the region's dining, style, fashion and travel scene for Artemis Communications' titles, including Alpha Men Asia, JETSETTER and The Art of Business Travel.

is a passionate traveller, writer and budding photographer based in Hong Kong.

Ever since doing exchanges to New York and San Francisco, she has had the travel bug and when she’s not jetting off on assignment you can find her exploring the latest restaurants and bars in her home town.

writes short fiction and travel stories, but her current focus is The Daughter She Must Keep, a novel about the struggles of a second daughter, trying to bring her American military family together and help rebuild postwar Naples, the most bombed Italian city in WWII. In this issue she travels by luxury cruise ship to the land of the Vikings.

World In Pics

Sights & Sounds Orcas feed in Alaska’s Inside Passage.

Credit: Great American Adventures

Sailing on the Nile is an increasingly popular way to explore Egypt’s ancient ruins. Credit: Egypt Tourism.

The Birdsville Races continue to draw race lover to the Australian outback.

Credit: Tourism & Events Queensland.

Soneva Fushi in the Maldives recently launched a freediving course with resident instructor Ken Kiriyama. Credit: Visit Maldives.

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The human towers, or Castellers, of Catalonia remain one of the most iconic festival events on the calendar. Credit: Catalunya.

World In Pics

From the spectacle of Barcelona’s human towers to the serenity of sailing the ancient Nile, these are the global images inspiring our travels this season.

Street art has proven a major draw card to the Malaysian island of Penang.

Credit: Tourism Malaysia.

A couple jump into Hamilton Pool, one of the many water holes near Austin, Texas.

Credit: Visit Austin.

The colourful houses of colonial-esque Guatape in Colombia.

Credit: Rainbow Tours

July-August 2018 5

What’s Happening

MassKara Festival

October 21, 2018 Bacolod City, Philippines

MassKara translates as ‘many faces’, and this festival provides just that. Introduced in 1980 to bring back the smiles of locals affected by the downfall of the sugar industry, Bacolod City turns into a hub of mask-wearing characters.

Experience everything from parades and street parties to beauty pageants, but the main event is the street dance competition. Dressed in costumes and masks of all sizes, dancers perform to huge crowds, with live drums and Latin music to top it off. www.masskarafestivals.com

Kenu and Kundu Festival November 2-4, 2018 Alotau, Papua New Guinea

This celebration of the Papuan ways of life may not have any historic roots, but it is no less of a vibrant cultural experience. Live music, traditional dancing, arts and craft displays, and drama performances fill the Milne Bay Province, but the ‘war canoes’ and kundu drums are the

main attraction. The boats are assembled using traditional techniques at Wagawaga Island, before sailing in convoy to Alotau for the official opening ceremony. www.nationalkenukundufestival.com

Pirates Week 2018

November 2-18, 2018 Cayman Islands, Caribbean This celebration of pirate legends and cultural heritage kicks off in Cayman Brac, and after eleven days of mock pirate invasions, street dances, costume contests, fireworks and parades, finishes at Little Cayman. With sponsors like Bacardi and Corona, this islandhopping festival isn’t short of happy hours, so head to the Caribbean and grab a bottle of rum to celebrate like Captain Jack Sparrow. www.piratesweekfestival.com

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What’s Happening

New York Comedy Festival

November 5-11, 2018 New York City

Running since 2010, this comedy fiesta has featured the likes of Kevin Hart, Ricky Gervais, Kathy Griffin, and Robin Williams. Taking place in comedy clubs and music halls across Brooklyn and Manhattan, headliners this year are yet to be announced. Besides laughing at huge names in stand up, additional shows, panel discussions, and music performances are also scheduled for the upcoming funny fest. www.nycomedyfestival.com

Burning the Clocks December 21, 2018 Brighton, England

Held on the Winter Solstice, the shortest day of the year, Burning the Clocks is a celebration consisting of thousands of people marching through the streets of the seaside city, burning handmade paper lanterns. Afterwards, participants head to the beach where a celebratory bonfire is lit and throw their lanterns into the fire, to release their hopes and dreams for the coming year. www. samesky.co.uk/events/burning-the-clocks

Pushkar Camel Fair November 15-23, 2018 Pushkar, India

With the vibe of an Indian country fair, with snake charmers, camel trading, fortune tellers, and market stalls, this colourful spectacle is held once a year under the autumn full moon.

With options for an on-site luxury tented camping retreat, Pushkar Camel Fair is one of India’s most highly-rated travel experiences, perfect for an exciting cultural family holiday. www.pushkarcamelfair.com

July-August 2018 7

News

An Angler’s Paradise Cringletie House is now offering experienced and first-time anglers a fantastic opportunity to fish in some of Scotland's finest waters. Perfectly placed in the heart of the beautiful Scottish Borders, Cringletie House is within easy reach of the River Tweed, the Berwickshire coast and numerous local lochs. The Scottish Borders offer an abundance of fishing opportunities from salmon fishing on the River Tweed, to sea trout fishing on its tributaries, rainbow trout fishing in the local lochs and sea fishing off the Berwickshire Coast. A former Scottish Baronial castle with 12 individually designed bedrooms, a sumptuous suite and a beautiful self-catering of its own land, just outside the royal burgh of

Chakra Alignment

Peebles. Working alongside Alba Game Fishing,

Ensure you’re living life in balance with the new Chakra

the Scottish experts in fishing, Cringletie's

Well-Being Treatment at Hampshire’s luxurious Chewton

guests can enjoy customised fly fishing

Glen Hotel & Spa in the United Kingdom. The new bespoke

packages on the River Tweed, which include

treatment is based around seven blends of chakra-balancing

instruction, equipment and an individual guide.

essential oils, which are designed to heal the nervous

The hotel offers a number of specially selected

system and realign the body’s essential energy channels.

fishing packages and can transfer guests to their

Each 120-minute treatment is created specifically to meet

chosen location and provide all the essential

the wellness requirements of each guest and includes the

equipment, including high quality fishing tackle

pouring of warm oil over the shirod or the body’s third eye to a

and wading jackets, as well as gourmet lunches.

soundtrack of exclusive ILA chakra-healing music. Finish your

www.crinletie.com

session with a soak in the hotel’s iconic hydrotherapy pool.

cottage, Cringletie House is set in 11 hectares

https://chewtonglen.grandluxuryhotels.com

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News

Perth’s Newest Lifestyle Destination Bursting into the buoyant Western Australian entertainment scene this August, the new QT Perth hotel promised to deliver an exciting new hospitality precinct to the heart of the city.

Showcasing the best of QT's signature service and design, the bold 18-storey hotel boasts 184 guest rooms, a signature bar and grill restaurant concept, a rooftop bar, and café. Perfect for modern explorers, QT Perth combines industrial glamour with a contemporary, urban-cool aesthetic. In addition to stylish guest rooms designed by Shelley Indyk, and public spaces created by Nic Graham, the hotel is home to the Italian-inspired Santini Grill, the first Perth venue for creative food director Robert Marchetti, who will work alongside executive chef Nic Wood to bring a Mediterranean flare to the city using the very best in local produce. Santini Bar will act as the hotel's social hub; a place to settle in and enjoy artisan drops from the finest local wineries or distilleries. Perched high in the sky, the Rooftop at QT will offer the highest rooftop party venue in Perth with spectacular views across the Swan River, Perth Hills and Optus Stadium. www.qthotelsandresorts.com/perth/

The Spirit of Cornwall If you’ve always wondered how gin and vodka are produced, a new distillery tour opens this month at Cornwall’s Colwith Farm Distillery. While most craft distilleries buy in the base spirit, Colwith is the first gin and vodka distillery in Cornwall – and one of only a handful in the UK – to bring the whole process under one roof. Located at Lanlivery near Fowey, the new state-of-the-art facility includes the main production area, where King Edward potatoes grown on the family farm are mashed, fermented and distilled and a bar so visitors can sample the spirits. The distillery, which produces Fowey River Gin, created by blending a Colwith vodka base with triple distilled cider from nearby Haye Farm before further distillation with botanicals; as well as Stafford's Gin and Aval Dor Vodka, will welcome visitors, with a series of story boards, telling the history of the family and the farm, followed by a tasting of the 80-plus gins available at the nearby Talland Bay Hotel. www.colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk July-August 2018 9

News

Long Beach Location If it’s time for a tropical holiday, the InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort has opened its doors on the pristine Phu Quoc Island, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve off the southwest coast of Vietnam. One of the most captivating features of the new resort is its position on Long Beach, one of Vietnam's most stunning white-sand beaches, enjoying glorious sunset views. It is an easy 15-minute drive from Phu Quoc International Airport, and only 20 minutes from the cultural attractions of Duong Dong town. Thoughtfully designed for families, couples and individuals alike, InterContinental

Gastro Voyages Holland America Line has introduced 23 new culinary-themed shore excursions in partnership with US magazine Food and Wine. The new EXC Tours, which tap into the culinary credentials of one of the US’ most popular food magazines, aim to combine insightful food and cultural experiences, ranging from meeting local chefs and enjoying authentic cooking classes, to visiting hidden foodie hotspots and acclaimed artisans. The new EXC Tours will be offered on select 2018 cruises to destinations including Dubrovnik, Monte Carlo, Barcelona, Copenhagen and Reykjavik, with additional tours added to ports in Europe, Alaska, Australia, Asia, the Caribbean and Mexico later in the year. www.hollandamerica.com

Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort features an exclusive beachfront, six restaurants and bars, 459 luxuriously appointed rooms, suites, and villas, as well as state-of-the-art meeting facilities, whilst seamlessly combining the sophisticated and cosmopolitan essence of the InterContinental heritage with the heartfelt rustic charm of the resort's surrounding local area and culture. Be sure to leave time for sundowers at INK 360, the highest bar in Phu Quoc, which boasts breathtaking panoramic ocean and mountain views; and dinner at Lava, a fine-dining seafood and specialty imported meats restaurant that uses the freshest produce cooked on charcoal grills and lava stone. www.ihg.com

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News

Making Memories Ritz-Carlton has launched a series of unique experiences designed to give guests an insight into the destinations to which they’re travelling. Whether it's an amenity, a cultural ceremony, or an engaging performance, the new #RCMemories, some of which are complimentary while others have an associated fee, connect guests to local culture by featuring a destination's taste, scent, sight or sound. At The Ritz-Carlton, Dove Mountain in Arizona guests can gather around a fire pit and listen to a Dove Mountain Ranger recount local folklore while being serenaded by a Native American flautist. At The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain guests can experience the Tree of Life lighting ceremony, which signifies life through the illumination of lights, lamps, lanterns and candles; while at The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi, guests will become spellbound by the 'Dance of Thanks to the Sea', which takes place each evening at the golden hour of sunset at the beach; and at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali, travellers can delve into the island’s Hindu heritage with a soul purification ritual. www.ritzcarlton.com

Park Life Offering stunning views of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, the new Lodge at the Presido brings new levels of luxury to one of San Francisco’s most beautiful parks. Building on the success of the Park’s first hotel, the Inn at Presidio, which opened in 2012, this newly rehabilitated historic boutique hotel boasts just 42 rooms, housed in the former army post’s Montgomery Street Barracks, which were built by the US Army between 1895-97. Lovingly restored by Architectural Resources Group and LC Interiors, the barracks has been reimagined as a contemporary and luxurious retreat while retaining its historic significance, with guest rooms featuring mesmerizing bridge views, modern furnishings, and touches of memorabilia. After a day exploring the city or the park’s hiking trails and bikeways, return to the Lodge in time for cocktails served by the garden fire pit. www.presidiolodging.com July-August 2018 11

Antarctica

Tackling

the Ice in Style Forget St Barths, Monte Carlo or Ibiza Magna, travellers are now looking to yacht charters for a more flexible way to explore remote Antarctica. By Nick Walton

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Antarctica

July-August 2018 13

Antarctica

I

t’s that magical moment between day and

leading charter companies reporting double digital

night, when the sun puts on an awe-inspiring

growth in 2015-16. But not all charter vessels are

encore while the inky darkness of night

created equal; destinations like Antarctica, the Arctic,

swallows up its stage. Far below, another

Melanesia and North Asia require specialist vessels

performance is being enjoyed by guests of a sleek

with ice-strengthened hulls, sophisticated navigation

superyacht; a pod of inquisitive humpback whales

systems, and the kinds of built-in redundancies that will

ring the vessel, slapping their flukes against the

have you thanking your lucky stars if things go awry

shimmering water and filling the air with honey-hued

thousands of kilometers from help.

mist as they prepare for their next dive. Not content with simply watching this placental performance from

We’re cruising the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the

the decks, we bundle up and take to the water in a fleet

beautiful Hanse Explorer, one of the custom-built

of military-grade zodiacs for a mesmerising up-close-

yachts used by specialist superyacht charter gurus

and-personal Antarctic encounter the likes of which few

EYOS Expeditions. A ground-breaking charter business

have experienced.

founded by Tim Soper and Rob McCallum, and operated by a clutch of hardy-yet-passionate travellers,

However, it’s an encounter that an increasing number

including experienced marine offer-turned-CEO Ben

of ultra-wealthy travellers are seeking, as they soar

Lyons, EYOS will take you, your friends, and your

over conventional destinations like Monaco and Tahiti

superyacht (if you’re fortunate enough to have one) to

in their private jets, en route to the world’s farthest

almost anywhere on the planet you so desire.

flung corners, where a small fleet of expedition-ready superyachts offer creature comforts and unforgettable

“The polar regions are clearly the ‘hot’ destination now

memories in equal measure. The global superyacht

for expedition yachts and we’re seeing more and more

charter market in growing in leaps and bounds, with

yachts venturing into more distant itineraries,” says

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Antarctica

“The trend towards expedition yachting mirrors the explosive growth in the expedition cruise industry,” says Lyons. “We see a real interest in yacht clients wanting to go beyond the Caribbean and Mediterranean. Seven years ago, there might have only been one yacht in Antarctica for charter. This season, we’ll be working with six private yachts, all but one of which are available for charter. In the Arctic, we see the same thing.”

A key component in this growth is the ability to now fly over rather than battle your way through the dreaded Drake Passage, a tumultuous strait between Antarctica and South America that’s often regarded as the most violent on the planet, landing by charter flight at King George Island, on the cusp of the Antarctic Peninsula. Leave the mainland after breakfast and you can be cruising the likes of the infamously ice-choked Antarctic Sound by lunch.

The Sound, our first stop, is a thrilling landscape rarely visited by the larger commercial vessels, which ply the west coast of the Peninsula on regular but inflexible itineraries. Among the towering icebergs of the Peninsula’s northeastern tip is where our agile vessels come into her own. With her navyblue hull and sleek, rakish lines, the Hanse Explorer is one of EYOS’ most popular charter yachts and wouldn’t look out of place in a Mediterranean marina. But beneath the Ferrari-like aesthetics lie cutting-edge environmental systems, the highest

Lyons as he guides our zodiac. “People that travel with us on expeditions want to see, learn and do more. They’re interested in where they’re going and they have a different view of what luxury and privilege mean. To them, luxury isn’t getting into the top restaurant in St Barths – it’s about going somewhere nobody else can get to.”

If you don’t count a superyacht among your most prized possessions (or don’t fancy scraping the paintwork of your palace at sea) EYOS also offers access to a myriad of world-class expeditionready charter yachts, like the Hanse Explorer, priced up to US$1 million a week. In addition to the charter, EYOS supply a hand-selected team of experienced expeditionary crew and guides, offering the perfect marriage of luxury and logistics.

July-August 2018 15

Antarctica

rating for an ice strengthened hull, powerful engines,

might offer. See something you like? Land on a

and a 9,000nm cruising range. In addition, she

beach where you just might be the first human

accommodates 12 guests in spacious ensuite

visitor. Crave new found friends? Arrange a visit

staterooms, and boasts sublime lounges and dining

to remote scientific base. Greeted by pods of orca

rooms, open sun decks, and an experienced hotel

in Niko Harbour? Launch the zodiacs! Even shy

crew who cater to every guest’s whims

Portuguese chef Luis Galego Pião follows the mantra “the destination comes first”, and the Baked

A few days into our week-long adventure, I rise just

Alaska be dammed.

before dawn– or at least the transition between the shades of twilight that represents the birth of a new

“Private charters mean freedom for a select few,”

day this close to the South Pole – and join captain

says White, who, during one such outing, expertly

Jens Köthen, a perpetually cheerful German with

guides our zodiac through narrow channels

the effortless grace of a luxury hotel manager, on

between towering cliffs, Arctic Terns dipping and

the bridge. The Hanse Explorer has an open bridge

darting high above. “These are people who are well

policy, offering guests a unique perspective on the

off and want to use their money to discover the

challenges of Antarctic navigation. The horizon, a

wonders of the world, and we’re only too happy to

silver line that seems to drift in and out of sight as

take them there.”

if in a dream, is gradually broken by great slabs of ice the size of city blocks, each emerging from the

Each day offers a new adventure, a new discovery.

morning mist like the vanguard of an approaching

In Antarctic Sound, we cruise through great sea

horde.

caves and brave ocean swells before beaching at Brown Bluff where, in the shadows of snow dusted

Each evening, over canapes in the saloon, expedition

cliffs, ranks of ice cathedrals, some blindingly

leader Richard White, an adventure veteran, outlines

white, others majestically blue, litter the bay. In

the plans for the day ahead, but there is an inherent

Mikkelsen Harbour we’re welcomed by roaring

flexibility sewn like gold threads into the best laid

fur seals, oblivious Adélie penguins, and the

plans because there’s no telling what mother nature

weathered wrecks of timber long boats dating from

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Antarctica

the region’s bloody whaling history; and to the south, in the Grandidier Channel, farther than commercial vessels dare to tread, we discover great sways of sea ice floes, which jostle for space with icebergs that rival Notre Dame in size and intricacy. After slicing and ploughing our way through the ice, the captain positions the bow against an tennis court-sized floe, offering us the perfect Antarctica photo op as the snow fall clears and the sun baths the shimmering landscape in gold.

Although Antarctica is the most popular, many other destinations are seducing adventurous superyacht travellers. “Papua New Guinea in particular has become a key destination,” says Lyons. “There’s intact culture, excellent diving and WWII history. It is an anthropologist’s dream.” He also counts the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, and Indonesia’s Raja Ampat as emerging locales, but for us, the magic is here in Antarctica, where the heavens meet the ice, and where the crowds of city life are a distant memory.

Travel Essentials Charter the Hanse Explorer from €200,000 (US$236,600) ++ per week, from EYOS Expeditions. www.eyos-expeditions.com

July-August 2018 17

Foodie Forays

Kiss from

aRose The rose has long been revered for its beauty, elegance, and distinctive aroma. Indulge in its unforgettable scent with these unique rose-infused travel experiences. By Isabelle Lui

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Foodie Forays

N

amed the Best International Bar at the 2015 Restaurant and Bar Design Awards, the Archie Rose bar and distillery in Sydney serves a delicate rose-infused cocktail named

the Rose Sour. Made with the distillery’s Original Vodka, rose wine and rose syrup, which are shaken with lemon, fresh raspberries and egg white, the concoction has a fruity and floral flavour with a clean citrus finish. If you feel like a palate explorer, also try the distillery’s Distiller's Strength gin, which is infused with rose, pear, honey, elderflower and juniper. https://archierose.com.au/bar Jet east to Mexico and Baja’s Cabo San Lucas, where the Luna y Mar spa offers a 180-minute Calming Moon treatment, which helps maintain your body’s balance while soothing the skin with the use of various minerals. The indulgence starts with a nourishing rose petal and rose oil-infused salt exfoliation, followed by a deep cleansing rose wrap, and a rejuvenating massage, and finishes with a lymphatic facial using rose crystals, which ensure you’ll leave feeling relaxed and refreshed. www.theresortatpedregal.com At Bulgaria’s Enio Bonchev, the country’s oldest rose oil distillery, pick fresh roses between mid-May to mid-Jun; learn how rose water is produced using traditional distillation methods; and visit the company’s museum and gift shop, home to Bulgarian rose and lavender essential oils. www.eniobonchev.com In London, you can savour a luscious Rose & Violet Sundae at The Parlour in Piccadilly. Made with Fortnum and Mason’s signature handmade Rose and Violet creams, which are produced using a recipe from the 1920s, ice cream is laced with a shot of raspberry coulis, and sprinkled with crystallised violets and slices of rose petal. This elegantly-presented dessert boasts the sweetness of English creams and the floral flavours of seasonal blooms. www.fortnumandmason.com July-August 2018 19

Airlines

A Mixed

Bag

While there’s no question Etihad is at the forefront of the global airline scene, the business class product on its A330 aircraft flying between Abu Dhabi and Hong Kong doesn’t give the best first impression, discovers Nick Walton

Check In/The Lounge

level, and a built-in magazine holder above a small drinks

I checked in at Abu Dhabi’s international airport using

shelf, with room for very small items under the armrest.

a sophisticated, designated business and first-class

There’s a 15-inch monitor built into the seatback in front,

check-in hall and walked ten minutes to the airline’s

below which the tray table is awkwardly bolted. For

Premium Lounge, which has to be one of the best we’ve

connectivity, there are USB and AC ports at foot level,

encountered. There’s a concierge that actually fixes

with a headphone jack and additional ports hidden under

problems, a stand-up bar that mixes a mean martini, a

the armrest. While the seat isn’t our favourite, it’s perfectly

Six Senses Spa that offers complimentary 15-minute

adequate for medium-haul flights like Abu Dhabi to Hong

treatments, shower suites and a barber shop, and an

Kong.

extensive hot and cold buffet. Even when full the lounge is spacious, elegant, and welcoming.

The Cabin

Dining I’m greeted by a charming cabin manager in a spotless white jacket, who offers me a glass of Piper-Heidsieck

Unfortunately, things take a small step down once we

champagne, a hot towel, and a menu (though no amenity

board the A330, the business class cabin of which seems

kit). It’s a late-night flight and many passengers had

impossibly cluttered, ill-designed, and rather weathered.

dined in the lounge so that they can sleep as much as

While most airlines try to use every square inch as efficiently

possible. I order the Arabic mezze platter, followed by dill

as possible, the Etihad A330 business class product looks

poached prawns with sesame red cabbage; and a beef

like it’s been repurposed rather than specifically designed

tenderloin with roast potatoes, baby carrots and a shiitake

for the aircraft and at every turn there’s negative space.

mushroom sauce, which I pair with a New Zealand pinot

With the staggered 1-2-1 configuration, seat selection

noir from Otago. For breakfast I choose natural yoghurt

requires some careful consideration so be sure to select

with cranberry, sunflower and flax seeds; and a seeded

yours well in advance of travel.

laugen roll with smoked salmon and crème fraiche, which

The Seat

is the perfect snack for an early arrival.

The 185-centimetre-long lie-flat Solstys-style seats are

Service

comfortable but offer little in the way of privacy, especially

Etihad has made a name for itself with its world-class

those window seats with armrests against the fuselage,

service and while its A330 product might not be its best

which have virtually nothing between passenger and aisle,

offering, the service on the Abu Dhabi-Hong Kong flight is

ensuring plenty of spilt champagne and a sore shoulder

top notch. The crew is friendly, welcoming, attentive and

but the end of the journey. In addition, there’s almost no

efficient, serving drinks and dinner quickly after takeoff,

storage space; there’s an odd panel-styled light fixture

and ensuring guests could dine and sleep and are always

(which is very obtrusive to other passengers) at shoulder

on hand throughout the flight. www.ethihad.com

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Space Travel

To the Stars

& Beyond

Each year, millions of people head to Cape Canaveral, Florida to visit an iconic American landmark where history has been made and innovation continues today.

Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex brings to life the epic story of the U.S. space program, with exclusive tours and an in-depth look at the space program's past, present and future.

Heroes & Legends featuring the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame The newest addition to Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, Heroes & Legends is designed to be a

of the Hubble Space Telescope and the International Space Station. The Shuttle Launch Experience ride and training simulators teach shuttle docking and landing.

guest's first stop. The experience uses the early years

NASA Now

of the space program to explore the concept of heroism

This exhibit provides unprecedented access to the

and the qualities of the individuals who inspired their

present and future of space travel. Offering an up-

generation. Cutting-edge technology, mesmerizing

close look at the most recent vehicles to have traveled

special effects, priceless artifacts and thought-provoking

to space, vehicles destined for future visits and those

exhibits amaze and inspire.

designed to further exploration and development, NASA

Kennedy Space Center Bus Tour The KSC Bus Tour takes visitors behind the gates, providing exclusive access to the restricted areas of

Now continues to grow. A recent addition is the Boeing full-scale engineering model of its CST-100 Starliner crew vehicle.

America's spaceport. The tour concludes at the Apollo/

Lunch with An Astronaut

Saturn V Center. Uber space enthusiasts can purchase

Lunch with An Astronaut is a not-to-be-missed add-

a Special Interest Tour, which includes additional stops.

on. During a catered lunch, a veteran NASA astronaut

Space Shuttle Atlantis

will share personal stories about what it's really like to launch, live and work in space. Visitors can

Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex is the

ask questions about anything, from how to sleep

permanent home of space shuttle Atlantis. A dramatic

in space to what experiments were performed.

presentation teaches guests about the shuttle's 33

Guests can also take a photo with the astronaut.

historic missions, including those that secured the future

www.kennedyspacecenter.com July-August 2018 21

SINGAPORE Hotel Review

T Jozie’s

here’s a distinctive ‘home coming’ feeling to Four Seasons The Westcliff, the most luxurious enclave in the South African capital.

Hidden behind towering walls and

nestled amidst lush, manicured gardens, the hotel

Garden With a coveted location and the air of a chic private residence, Four Seasons The Westcliff Johannesburg is the perfect base from which to explore this fascinating city, discovers Nick Walton.

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looks more like the chic private residential complex for the city’s power brokers it was created as than the hotel it became – and therein lies one of its many charms.

Especially popular with safari-bound travellers stopping over in the capital, the hotel spills down a leafy hill in the chic neighborhood of Westcliff. Designed as a luxury condo complex, the property started life as The Westcliff, the city’s most glamorous accommodation, before being relaunched as a Four Seasons in 2015 after an extensive US$56 million refurbishment. Today this unique urban resort offers panoramic views across Johannesburg Zoo (listen carefully at night for the roar of the lions) from its 117 sublime guest rooms

Hotel Review

and suites, as well as some of the city’s best

Westcliff, a completely new, custom-designed

culinary experiences.

wellness enclave boasting nine treatment rooms and a menu of indulgent rituals, including some

After a quick check-in at the intimate lobby pavilion

using luxury Hungarian brand Omorovicza. After

I make my way up white rose-lined pathways to

your treatment make a bee-line for the spa’s

my Panoramic View Premium Room, located in

25-meter indoor heated pool, or for the rooftop

one of nine ‘pavilions’, each named for a different

Après Spa, the city’s only outdoor spa lounge,

South African state. The property’s residential feel

where ladies of leisure worship the African sun

extends to these elegant guest rooms, with their

and discuss ball season. If working a sweat is

private balconies, sumptuous marble bathrooms,

more cathartic, the hotel also boasts a state-

separate dressing rooms, fireplaces, and soaring

of-the-art fitness centre, complete with ranks of

ceilings. Interiors are timeless, with plush furniture,

machines of torture and toning.

glorious beds, and colourful accents taken from South African culture, from zebra print armchairs

In addition to luxurious accommodation, the

to original art by local painters and sculptures. I

Four Seasons The Westcliff has made a name

spent the wee hours of my first night at the hotel

for itself as a leading dining destination, and

on the terrace watching a dramatic thunder storm

with good reason. The hotel features three

unfold across the city, completely mesmerized.

unique dining venues: View, with its dramatic interiors and elegant terrace, is the home of

If you’ve just arrived from Asia and are keen to

fine-dining, with a focus on locally-sourced

shake off the cobwebs of long-haul travel, head

ingredients and South African wines that’s

for the nature-inspired Spa at Four Seasons The

won it acclaim among the city’s gourmands.

The Westcliff Deli is a great little hideaway that serves brilliant coffee and a fresh pastries, sandwiches and salads. However, my personal favourite (and I’m clearly not alone) is Flames, the hotel’s showpiece restaurant, which boasts an expansive terrace that’s the hottest table in town for sunset cocktails, craft beers and grilled meat and seafood.

To explore the city more, the Four Seasons’ concierges offer a series of extraordinary experiences across the city, from spending the day with local designer Gert-Johan Coetzee to a private evening concert with notable local musicians. From US$344 per night, twin share; www.fourseasons.com/johannesburg/

July-August 2018 23

Travel Essentials

Off Piste Perfection The new range of winter jackets from Helly Hansen has you covered no matter what travel adventures you have in your sights.

If you’re headed to the ski runs, the Helly Hansen Men's Elevation Shell 2.0

Jacket and Women's Maroi Shell Jacket have

been developed specifically for free skiers eager for the freedom of the backcountry. Both new additions to the award-winning Ullr collection feature a removable CIS insulated vest with a 3D mesh body that enhances airflow and ventilation when boot-packing to a backcountry gate. Developed and tested by Helly Hansen’s professional free skiers to meet your most demanding needs, the new jackets now feature the Life Pocket+, which protects your electronics from the cold and preserves battery life. Built with Helly Tech Professional 3L fabric with a new FLOW membrane enabling an unparalleled breathability and protection, in combination with the brand’s innovative H²Flow venting system, the new jackets have a longer length with a relaxed tailored fit with pockets and ventilation zippers designed to work flawless with your backpack. Hi viz details and brim make you stand out in deep powder, while large adjustable cuffs allows for easy use with gloves. www.hellyhansen.com

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Travel Essentials

The perfect travel companion, Canon has launched the cutting-edge EOS M50 mirrorless camera, which boasts 4K video capability, a vari-angle touchscreen, and Canon’s latest DIGIC 8 image processor. Coupled with Bluetooth and Wi-Fi for seamless connectivity, an APS-C sized 24.1-megapixel CMOS sensor for beautiful soft backgrounds and sharp, high-resolution images in low-light situations, and ten frames per second (fps) continuous shooting capability, the Canon EOS M50 is the perfect choice for confident smartphone and compact camera photographers seeking to enhance their photography on the road. Highly portable, this interchangeable lens camera is sleek and compact, with a super-fast autofocus system and Full HD video capability that features cinematic modes for true story telling. www.canon.com

July-August 2018 25

Travel Essentials

CARRY

ON COOL The limited-edition Vibe 28L ECONYL anti-theft backpack from security-conscious luggage brand Pacsafe is designed to secure your gear during urban explorations and exotic treks alike. Whether you’re on a beach break in Mozambique, or hiking through Japanese forests, Pacsafe’s patented anti-theft technology offers peace of mind. The backpack has space for a laptop, a change of clothes and other essentials, and even better, 100 percent of the profits from this bag go to support Pacsafe’s Turtle Fund. www.pacsafe.com

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Travel Essentials

small but Vital If you pride yourself in travelling off the beaten path,

Garmin has unveiled the newest addition to its lineup of satellite communication devices. The inReach Mini is a pint-sized, compact satellite communicator that offers adventurers two-way messaging and a 24/7 SOS function when combined with an inReach subscription to access the Iridium satellite network. Measuring just under four inches tall by two wide, the inReach Mini can slip into a backpack pocket, jacket pocket or glove box until needed.

When it is, it quickly connects to the network of satellite, allowing you to stay in touch with loved ones or call in a rescue. The Earthmate app easily pairs the inReach Mini with smartphones and tablets, making typing messages a breeze while also offering access to unlimited maps, charts, and aerial imagery. You can even automatically update your progress on social media and send pre-set messages to contacts. https://explore.garmin.com

July-August 2018 27

Oman

Oman is no stranger to foreign influence and Omani cuisine reflects the rich ethnic and tribal mix with flavours blended from the Arabian and Indian subcontinents in dishes such as grilled mishkak kebabs, shuwwa and harees. Mix this up with East African curries and local ingredients like fish and dates and you have a recipe for truly innovative local cuisine. Here are some of the city’s tip spots for world-class dining.

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Oman

Bait Al Luban

spice and the rhythms of live Moroccan music

Conveniently located at Muttrah Corniche, this

welcoming guests, dining at Shahrazad is a

place is cleverly styled to envelope guests with

culinary and cultural adventure. The humus is out

the warmth of an Omani home. With the scent of

of this world and the signature dish is fattoush, a

Frankincense wafting through the air (Al Luban

traditional chopped salad dressed in a zesty lime

means frankincense), this restaurant combines

vinaigrette, prepared at the table by the chef with

Omani hospitality with the flavours of ancient

style and flair.

trails blazed by travellers from East Africa to India for an unforgettable dining experience.

The menu showcases classic Omani dishes

Kargeen Restaurant

Popular with expats and locals, this laid-back

from around the country, such as mansheb -

Muscat restaurant serves Omani grills and

rice cooked with fish and a coconut broth from

Italian dishes in a lantern-lit garden and shisha

Salalah, as well as the freshest local seafood

lounge. Kargeen is the old Omani word for a little

prepared Omani Style.

wooden cottage and this place lives up to its name. Done up in wood and wrought iron and

The Restaurant

decorated with bright rugs, it blends traditional

Four open kitchens in the heart of The Chedi

Eastern style with classical Western culture

Muscat showcase Muscat's finest culinary

creating a welcoming haven of tranquility. If

flavours – Western, Asian, Middle Eastern and

alfresco is more your style, a candle lit dinner

Indian. Dine on the outdoor patio, the elegant

on the lawn or under one of the cozy canopies is

dining room or checkout one of eight private

the way to go.

dining rooms and lounge areas - perfect for get togethers with family and friends. Don't miss the legendary Friday brunch with free-flowing

Uhbar

Sharing its name with this lost ancient city in the country's south, Uhbar offers up food with

champagne.

a fusion of present and past to reflect Oman's

Shahrazad

rich cultural history and mystical past. Order

Located within the spectacular Shangri-la Al

the muttrah paplou (seafood soup with plump

Husn Resort and Spa, Shahrazad is a striking

wontons) coupled with ubhar harees, a porridge-

and

the

like chicken dish topped with rich onion sauce.

cuisines of the Arabian Peninsula, including

When it comes to dessert, the halva-based

Omani specialties. With the alluring fragrance of

specialties are a real highlight.

elegant

restaurant

that

features

July-August 2018 29

Reader’s Report

Canada’s Sub-Tropical

Playground

Sandra Elliot

discovers Victoria, in western Canada, maintains its charms year-round.

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Reader’s Report

O

n my first day in Victoria, about fifteen years ago, I remember the sky was bright blue, the sun vibrantly warm. As the Vancouver ferry entered the bay, I saw a village with streets lined in intense

green lawns and immense trees. Then I saw the extravagant architecture, the Empress Hotel (now The Fairmont Empress) where people still enjoyed high tea, and the British Columbia Parliament that at night became a fairyland of lights and realized by Victoria, settled in 1843, is regarded as one of western Canada’s oldest and most beautiful cities.

I’ve returned to Victoria several times, a place that caters to tourists, politicians, and residents, but my first visit was the most impactful. That’s when I came upon a pair of coconut palms, lithe with green fronds like those in Miami or Key West.

It was odd to see palms outside a pub in Victoria; Canadian winter temperatures average well below zero degrees Fahrenheit, and -400 F is not unusual. I’d always thought a palm wouldn’t survive here except in a greenhouse.

Until this year, I’d been to Victoria only in the warm season of hanging flower baskets and colorful flowerbeds. I’d trekked the famous Butchart Gardens and tracked black and white orcas with the Prince of Whales. Still thinking about those palm trees, I wondered if Victoria’s winters were an anomaly. Would a Floridian used to warmer climes survive—maybe even enjoy it there?

This past January, my husband and I flew to Hawaii to escape the North Florida cold. On our way back, in early February, we stopped in Seattle and caught a Victoria Clipper ferry north.

The Clipper offers travel packages with a selection of hotels and tours. We chose the Chateau Victoria Hotel and Suites.

For a reasonable price, we had round-trip ferry tickets and a comfortable suite with separate living room and kitchenette.

Perched on a hill above the downtown, the Chateau overlooks the city and the bay. Its top-floor restaurant offers a 360-degree panorama of the Straits of Juan de Fuca—the United StatesCanadian boundary—and the Olympic Peninsula.

July-August 2018 31

Reader’s Report seemed more tropical than North Florida. The local residents I talked with agreed and expressed a common sentiment: Victoria was Canada’s version of Hawaii.

History played a central role in Victoria’s culture, as the displays at the Royal British Columbia Museum revealed. The permanent collection of First People, or Native American, art and artifacts is outstanding. The changing displays are also first class. Several years ago, the museum hosted a comprehensive collection of Viking artifacts. This time, the displays included the impact of dinosaurs and climate change. The city also has many excellent restaurants. In addition to the meals at our hotel, we enjoyed salmon and Dungeness crab at Nautical Nellies by the bay.

Transportation options for reaching Victoria include the large car ferries from Vancouver, on the Canadian mainland, and Port Angeles, in the United States. Smaller passenger ferries and seaplanes connect Victoria with Vancouver and Seattle. Victoria’s International Airport, a few miles north of town, has flights to many cities. In season, tour boats and cruise ships make stopovers in Victoria.

Summer is Victoria’s peak tourist season, but for a Florida gal winter also has its charms.

Tucked in a bay at the bottom of Vancouver Island, Victoria is near the Pacific Ocean, and surrounded by the Juan de Fuca and the Georgia Straits. The city with British architecture also has a unique mix of indigenous and European heritage art and artists. For example, an Emily Carr statue of a woman talking with a monkey and a dog is stationed near a busy street corner.

Across the street, a totem carved by Henry Hunt, a Kwawkewlth Indian, commemorates the 1866 unification of the mainland and Vancouver Island.

During our stay, redbud trees burst out in tiny bright-pink flowers. All around the city, pear and apple trees put forth delicate white and pale pink blossoms. Weeks after we returned home to North Florida, those same kinds of trees began to bloom.

Down by the docks, I discovered a line of palms more like the sabal palms of North Florida than the graceful coconut palms of Miami. But palms they were, and they grew all over the city. With its flowering trees and palms, Victoria almost 32 WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM