JULY - AUGUST 2016
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
Colour & Love
Inside India’s Holi Festival
Queen of the Coast Langkawi’s The Datai
In the Kings’ Garden
Diving Raja Ampat HAKODATE REAWAKENS
SAMUI WELLNESS
A DAY IN UTRECHT
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
elcome to another issue of Explorer, the ecofriendly
digital
travel
magazine for true world
wanderers. In this issue we have a little something for every traveller profile; we kick off in Utrecht, one of Holland’s best kept secrets, where Maria Bayley leads us on the ultimate day-long adventure through this ancient locale. There’s time to
camp out under the stars – albeit with plenty of creature comforts – in north Bali, before we skip down to the Thai island of Koh Samui and a spot of luxury detoxing. In Japan, Chiara Terzuolo visits the picturesque Hokkaido harbor town of Hakodate to see what affects the arrival of the bullet train has made on this sleepy fishing port, before Nick Walton leads us beneath the waves of Raja Ampat, in remote eastern Indonesia, said to be home to the best diving in the world. We finish in Rajasthan with Will Thierbach as he visits for the first time the annual Holi festival, a frantically colourful affair fought in the streets of the ancient city of Jodhpur. Wherever you’re travelling this season, whether it’s to find inspiration or relaxation, to delve from the beaten path or rediscover favourite haunts, we hope Explorer continues to be your guide and muse.
David Leung Publisher
CONTRIBUTORS As a Portuguese-New Zealander, traveling has forever meant going from home to where the heart is for Maria Bayley. A lover of writing, music and airports, she is always searching for the next city to get lost in. In this issue she stays closer to home and explores a day in the life of Utrecht.
Chiara Terzuolo is a Tokyo-based travel specialist, writer and ethnomusicologist. Having lived in 7 different countries and travelled to 20 more, she loves diving deeply into the culture, cuisine and music of her latest destination. Chiara's particular specialty is Japan, and in this issue she explores the retro city of Hakodate, the new must-visit spot in Hokkaido.
New York-native Will Thierbach is an avid traveller and photographer. A former fighter pilot, Will now explores the globe from his base in Hong Kong. In this issue he braves the water balloons and coloured powder ambushes of Rajasthan’s Holi festival.
4
WORLD IN PICS
The other-worldly view of Halong Bay whisks travellers away from the hustle and bustle of city life.
Epic Wonders Of The World Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire is the perfect spot from which to relish British history and picnic under the sun. Credit: Blenheim Palace
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There is no better place to savour a glass of sparkling wine than Champagne. Credit: JK Graeber
WORLD IN PICS
Kyoto is painted red by the annual Koyo leaves from September through to December. Credit: Kyoto Convention and Visitors Bureau
5
Two polar bears cuddle at Hubbard's Point in Canada. Credit: Jim Hegge
From colourful cities to awe-inspiring Unesco-listed heritage sites, these are the images defining our travel this season. Lisbon captures travellers around the world with its old world charm and exquisite architecture. Credit: Turismo de Lisboa
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6
WHAT’S HAPPENING
Cheyenne Frontier Days
Salzburg Festival
July 22 – 31, 2016 Cheyenne, the United States
July 22 – August 31, 2016 Salzburg, Austria
Widely known as the Daddy of 'em All, Cheyenne Frontier Days is the world’s largest outdoor rodeo. The action-packed event includes grand parades, free pancake breakfasts, an Old West museum, and an authentic Indian village. After watching a day of roping and riding, travellers can immerse themselves in the exhilarating Frontier Nights, which feature performances by American singer Sam Hunt and rock band Fall Out Boy. www.cfdrodeo.com
With 192 performances in 41 days across 14 venues, the Salzburg Festival will welcome travellers from around the world to enjoy a prominent celebration of music, drama and opera. Kicking off with The Exterminating Angel - a world premiere by British composer Thomas Ades - this year’s event will feature American popular musical West Side Story and The Tempest by English playwright William Shakespeare. www.salzburgerfestspiele.at
Edinburgh Festival Fringe
BoomTown
August 5 -29, 2016 Edinburgh, Scotland
August 11 – 14, 2016 Hampshire, England
The largest arts festival across the globe, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe will see over 50,000 performances in the capital city of Scotland. Music lovers should check out the Chechelele World Music Choir, while those craving for a good laugh should not miss the stand-up comedy, Jimmy McGhie: Apologia. Leave time for a visit to The Collection, an exhibition showcasing the stunning paintings of Scottish colourist Cara Mckinnon Crawford. www.edfringe.com
One of the most inspiring independent music festivals in the United Kingdom, BoomTown will bring together over 500 artists to showcase a wide variety of music, ranging from folk and punk to hip-hop and electro swing, across its nine themed districts. World-beating headliners include New York electric band Fun Lovin’ Criminals, New Zealand seven-piece band Fat Freddy’s Drop, and English ska bands Madness and Bad Manners. www.boomtownfair.co.uk
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WHAT’S HAPPENING
Wilderness
7
Malaysia George Town Festival
August 4 – 7, 2016 Oxfordshire, England
July 29 – August 28, 2016 Penang, Malaysia
Set in the rustic Cornbury Park in Oxfordshire, Wilderness is an eclectic summer festival which involves live music, theatre, yoga, sports, gourmet food and dance. Watch out for the performance by London Contemporary Voices and the Saturday morning mass yoga session led by Nadia Narain. Also, don’t forget to tease your taste buds at the banqueting tent hosted by acclaimed Australian chef Skye Gyngell. www.wildernessfestival.com
An annual, month-long celebration of arts, culture and community, Malaysia’s George Town Festival encompasses an array of art exhibitions, art installations, and a unique mix of international worldclass shows as well as interesting local acts. Highlights include Triptyque, a combination of circus acrobatics and contemporary dance by Canadian group Les 7 doigts de la main; and Potehi, a traditional hand puppet performance from Taiwan. www.georgetownfestival.com
Street Parade Zurich
Sydney Tea Festival
A demonstration for freedom, love and tolerance, the 25th Street Parade Zurich is one of the largest techno parties in the world. Making its way along the side of the beautiful Lake Zurich, the musical parade is expected to attract over one million revellers and features 30 Love Mobiles (moving stages), and six stages along the route with top-notch DJ performances and dance animations. www.streetparade.com
Taking place at Carriageworks - the largest multi-arts centre of its kind in the city - Sydney Tea Festival will put up a tea market, where various tea brands will display their specialty loose leaf tea and tisanes of all styles. Visitors can enjoy a cup of freshly brewed tea at Brew Lounge, before taking part in some of the hands-on sessions led by tea experts. www.sydneyteafestival.com.au
August 13, 2016 Zurich, Switzerland
August 21, 2016 Sydney, Australia
www.explorer-magazine.com
8
NEWS
Travellers looking to chase the Northern Lights
The Amazing Aurora
should join the new Iceland's Northern Lights tour by Abercrombie & Kent (A&K). Departing October 12 and November 16, 2017, the eightday journey not only allows guests to take in the amazing Northern Lights, but also offers the chance to enjoy the country’s incredible landscapes, including the dramatic fjords, geothermal lakes, mountains, volcanic craters, geysers and waterfalls of southwest Iceland. The tour features a visit to the healing waters of the Blue Lagoon, a glacial ice tunnel hike, and a jeep adventure. There's also time to explore Reykjavik, the compact and stylish capital. Accommodating up to 18 guests, the tour is priced from AU$9,595 (US$7,032), per person, twin share. www.abercrombiekent.com
Luxurious Cruising
Bangkok-based boutique hotel brand X2 has launched new cruises on Bangkok’s Chao Praya River, offering travellers a luxurious and comfortable way to enjoy Bangkok’s historic network of waterways. The twohour luxury river and canal tour enables guests to explore all must-see Thai-heritage sites along the Chao Praya River. Inspired by Venetian taxi boats, the modern Italian custom designed cruiser can accommodate up to 14 passengers and features real leather interiors, air conditioning, cold drinks, and a sliding Targa-style roof for open-air sightseeing. Available to be booked for corporate events and private functions, the boat offers the perfect way to impress and caters to those in need of fast, comfortable luxury on the river. www.x2rivercruises.com
Those bound for Bali this summer should head over to the new Finns Beach Club Canggu, only 15 minutes from Seminyak. Perched on famous Berawa Beach, the relaxing yet chic beach club is the perfect spot from which to enjoy great food, innovative cocktails, and beautiful sunsets. The striking bamboo structure of Finns Beach Club Canggu was specifically designed to allow guests to enjoy a stunning ocean view. They can laze away the day in the sun from the comfort of single and double day beds on the beach or swim a few laps in the club’s 30-metre infinity edge pool. A resident DJ starts spinning tunes at 4pm daily, setting the perfect scene for guests to take in an amazing Bali sunset. www.finnsbeachclub.com
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Summer Beach Fun
NEWS
Underwater Discovery
9
Looking to enjoy a range of delicacies in Palm Springs, California? Check out the array of establishments on the area's foodie trail. Kick off your foodie journey at Shields Date Garden, where you can sample nearly a dozen varieties of dates, before heading to Morgan's in the Desert for a local feast in a breathtaking hacienda-style setting, or savour locallyroasted coffee beans at Koffi. On the second day, visit Chicken Ranch, which sources their rotisserie birds from Gone Straw Farms, and try modern desert cuisine at King's Highway in Ace Hotel & Swim Club. Make sure to explore the wide variety of meats, cheeses and locallymade salsa at Coachella Valley Certified Farmers Markets, before ending the day with a hand crafted beer at Coachella Valley Brewing Company.
www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com
Foodie Adventure
For those who love delving into the deep blue, Anantara has opened Aquafanatics, the first PADI-certified free diving centre in the Maldives, available to guests staying at Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort, Anantara Veli Maldives Resort and Naladhu Maldives. The less explored activity of free diving strips many restraints attached with traditional scuba diving. Free diving relies on divers holding their breath, leaving them free to move through the translucent Maldivian waters. Every diver is made to feel at ease in the water with Anantara’s professional free diving instructor Mari Kagaya, who is originally from Japan and qualified as a diving instructor in Honduras in 2002. www.anantara.com
Travellers to Sabah can now enjoy an
Breakfast in Nature
unforgettable breakfast in the jungles of Borneo, with views of Mount Kinabalu, with the newly launched Breakfast with a View package from Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort & Spa. Guests will trek through the jungle, with an expert guide who will show them long tailed macaque monkeys, deer, squirrels, hornbill birds and 30 species of butterflies along the way. Upon completing their climb, guests will be greeted with a bottle of Champagne and a delicious breakfast of pastries and fresh seasonal fruits from the local markets. After breakfast, they will be lead along a secret trail to a private lagoon, where they will set out on their kayak towards the turquoise waters of Pantai Dalit Beach.
www.shangri-la.com www.explorer-magazine.com
10 NEWS
Situated in the foothills of the spectacular
Lavish Seclusion
Atlas Mountains in Morocco, the awardwinning Kasbah Tamadot has opened its allnew Berber Tented Suite, offering discerning travellers a luxurious retreat from which to enjoy the beauty of the African landscape. With a private deck equipped with sun loungers and space for outdoor dining, the new Tented Suite allows guests the chance to soak up views of the Atlas Mountains. It also features a private Jacuzzi for them to relax in after a day of adventure. From watching a selection of films in the open-air cinema under the stars, to relaxing in a traditional Hammam in the Asounfou Spa, Kasbah Tamadot makes for a fantastic way to unwind and enjoy Moroccan luxury at its very best.
www.virginlimitededition.com
Explore Laos on Two Wheels
SpiceRoads Cycle Tours has relaunched the Hidden Laos by Road Bike tour, following a mandatory road closure and subsequent travel restrictions from March 7 to June 30 in Laos' Xaisomboun province. The first departure on this moderately challenging, eight-day road biking adventure is scheduled for October 9, 2016. Beginning in the Laotian capital of Vientiane with a pleasant ride along the Mekong River, the tour offers guests the opportunity to climb through the foothills of the Annamese Caldera, pass through the untouched Xaysomboun Special Zone, experience the vast and mysterious Plain of Jars, and relax on the riverside among the spectacular karsts of Vang Vieng. A support van will follow behind the group carrying cold drinks and snacks for any rider in need of a break. www.spiceroads.com
Fiji Oasis DoubleTree by Hilton has debuted in Fiji with the opening of DoubleTree by Hilton Fiji - Sonaisali Island. Surrounded by the pristine waters of the South Pacific Ocean, the new resort features 120 generously-sized guest rooms and bures (traditional Fijian bungalows), which offer awe-inspiring views of the stunning Mamanuca Islands. Guests can sate their appetites at Vulani, which provides buffet and Ă la carte dining with themed nights and live entertainment, or enjoy an extensive selection of BBQ-style meats at the beachfront restaurant, Tavu Bar & Grill. In addition to an array of adventurous and relaxing activities, such as horseback riding and paintballing, a multitude of water activities are also available, including snorkeling, scuba diving and yachting. www.fiji.doubletree.com
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Antarctica Exploration
NEWS
11
Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic has added two new departures - November 7 and 17 - to their Antarctica 2016 season. Both departures will be aboard the 102-guest National Geographic Orion, and will follow the 11-night Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent expedition. Guests will be able to marvel at an astounding number of penguins, a myriad of bird species and whales, as well as majestic ice sculptures. The active, immersive adventure will also include kayaking among icebergs, Zodiac cruises past resting leopard seals, and hikes on the continent with a professional ice team, which comprises an expedition leader, eight veteran naturalists, a National Geographic National
photographer, Geographic
a
Lindblad-
certified
photo
instructor, and an undersea specialist.
www.au.expeditions.com
House of Elegance
Travellers heading to Okinawa in Japan should book the newly-refurbished Sheraton Okinawa Sunmarina Resort. Located on Sunmarina Beach, the luxurious resort offers 200 renovated guest rooms and suites, which boast all of the Sheraton brand's signature amenities, and balconies with sweeping views of the East China Sea. The resort also features a fullyrenovated lobby, with an open, airy ambiance, and a variety of dining options. Senses is an all-day dining restaurant which offers fresh, local flavours and superb ocean views; while the Atrium Lounge serves a recently introduced lobby bar menu, Paired. The luxurious resort is on track to add a new wing with additional guest rooms, a wellness center, and new dining options, by December. www.sheraton.com/okinawasunmarina
Refreshed Beachfront Gem If you’re heading to the aesthetic city of Galle, Sri Lanka, you should watch out for the recently-opened Jetwing Lighthouse Club, a luxurious retreat wrapped in elegance and old world charm. Adjoining Jetwing Lighthouse, the new hotel is home to 20 deluxe rooms, furnished with rich timber and eco-friendly fabrics; two themed suites with private Jacuzzis, plunge pools, and separate seating areas; an indulgent spa; and a swimming pool. Guests can embark on a culinary journey at the signature Nihal's restaurant, overseen by internationally-renowned executive chef Nihal Senanayake, and can access all the bars and restaurants at Jetwing Lighthouse, including fine-dining restaurant Cinnamon Room, Cardamom CafÊ, Anchor Bar, and Coat of Arms & Cinnamon Terrace. www.jetwinghotels.com
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12 A DAY IN…
DOWN BY THE www.explorer-magazine.com
A DAY IN…
13
E WATERLINE www.explorer-magazine.com
14 A DAY IN…
In the heart of the Netherlands, the medieval city of Utrecht, famed for its stunning architecture, tranquil canals and bicycle-filled streets, offers a true escape from the crowds of the capital, discovers Maria Bayley. 8am Check into boutique hotel Mother Goose, part of Utrecht City Hotels, a collection of unique hotel concepts at the heart of the ancient city. A renovated medieval building, this 23-room hideaway is the perfect base from which to explore Utrecht, with many important landmarks just minutes away. Each of the hotel’s four floors are named for a colour: our favourite is the suite on the "grey goose floor", which features a separate bathtub in the middle of the room and wonderful views of the Dom Tower. The decoration is remarkably tasteful, and the staff are impeccable. Mother Goose is in the heart of Utrecht. www.mothergoosehotel.com
9am Make your way to restaurant De Rechtbank, a partner of Mother Goose, to fuel up. This eatery is famed for its delicious breakfast buffet, which boasts a variety of both sweet and savoury staple foods; including a local favourite, delicious piping hot pancakes covered in sugar or syrup. www.derechtbank.com
11am Time to answer the question you've had on your mind since you first stepped into Utrecht: yes, you can climb to the top of the Dom Tower. At 112m, the building is the highest of its kind in the country. It’s construction started in the 14th century, and throughout history it's had bells and a carillon added. If you don't have the energy to climb its 465 stairs, stick to visiting St Martin's Cathedral (often called Dom Church) at the tower’s base. A tornado destroyed the central nave in 1674 and it was never rebuilt, thus resulting in the uncommon sight of a church separated from its tower. Be sure to also visit its beautiful Gothic cloister. www.domtoren.nl, www.domkerk.nl
12.30pm Head across the Oudegracht ("old canal") towards Café Olivier, a traditional Belgian beer cafe. Located in the heritage-listed buildings that once housed the Mary Minor chapel and St Elisabeth Hospital, the café’s beautiful interiors are worth a visit themselves, although the food won't let you down either. Whether you choose to have some croquettes (typical in the Low Countries), or some Belgian mussels, you’re set for a pleasant waterside meal. www.utrecht.cafe-olivier.be
2pm Get to know the city in the best manner possible - a tour of the city’s canal network with Schuttevaer shipping company. Departing frequently from the main canal pier, the hour-long round tour will offer a new perspective of many of the most emblematic buildings in www.explorer-magazine.com
Utrecht. The boat is covered and has a heating system, so that you'll enjoy your ride comfortably regardless of the weather. Make sure to book your trip in advance during peak season, as demand can be quite high. www.schuttevaer.com
3.30pm A short walk from the tour's end point is Museum Speelklok. Among the most famous in Utrecht, its famed for its collection of automatically playing instruments, most of which still work. The story of these instruments started back in the 16th century in the Netherlands with the use of church carillons, and has evolved with inventions such as musical clocks, music boxes and street organs. A visit is a fun way to get your daily fix of history, and listen to what the Dutch heard throughout the centuries. www.museumspeelklok.nl
5.30pm Wander through the city while enjoying the twilight colours reflecting on the canals as you make for Stadskasteel Oudaen, a medieval-era manor house by the water. Built in 1296, the building is now home to a restaurant and brewery, and its two terraces are popular during the summer months with visitors looking for respite over a cold draft. www.oudaen.nl
7pm Return to the Dom area for dinner at Zussen, a trendy eatery that combines tasteful modern decor with rich architectural styling. Highlights of the menu include salmon tartar with mojito mayonnaise and sea bream fillet with fennel mousse and white wine sauce. www. zussen.com
10pm In case you feel like a nightcap Zussen has some of the best cocktails in town, complimented by live music. Alternatively join the locals at Le Clochard; with its roaring fireplace right in the center of the dining room, this restaurant is a cosy local favourite and features a great selection of regional beers and wines. www.leclochard-utrecht.nl
10am Spend the morning exploring the Vredenburg Markt (open on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays). Located close to the main train station, this colourful market has everything Dutch, from fresh flowers to artisanal cheese. Get a stroopwafel as your breakfast on the go: this thin caramel filled cookie is the most typical sweet you can get, and its sweet and rich flavours will give you plenty of energy for the day. Better served warm!
GREAT OUTDOORS
15
Under Canvas Heavens
M
enjangan Dynasty Resort, Beach Camp and Dive Centre opens this August in north Bali, offering a glamorous camping (otherwise known as “glamping”) experience for couples and families alike. Located on an isolated peninsula surrounded on three sides by the Indian Ocean, the resort features 24 beach camp tents, as well as two one-bedroom, and two two-bedroom cliff tent villas. Imported from South Africa, cliff tents also feature private plunge pools. All tents boast flat
screen TVs & DVD players, minibar, safe deposit box, IDD telephones, and ensuite bathrooms as well as uninterrupted views of the ocean, Menjangan Island, and the mountain peaks of east Java. When you’re not playing savannah explorer, make for the large 158sqm infinity swimming pool, located on a small cliff with its own waterfall which cascades into a lower pool. The pool overlooks the Pasir Putih Beach Club & Bar where guests can enjoy refreshing cocktails whilst watching the sunset on the horizon. Other facilities include seamless buggy service to navigate the resort, a dive
centre, a spa with private waterfront spa rooms, and a cosy fitness centre. The northwest coast of Bali has become increasingly popular amongst visitors looking for an authentic escape offering an unspoilt environment in which to relax and take in what both the culture and nature has to offer. Within the area there are many attractions and activities to partake in including diving or snorkelling at Menjangan Island (a 15 minute boat trip from the resort), the Atlas Pearl farms, the quiet village of Pemuteran, trekking, cycling, horse riding, hot springs and secret waterfalls. www.pphotels.com www.explorer-magazine.com
16 FAMILY HOLIDAYS
Queen of
the Coast The Beach Villas at acclaimed Langkawi retreat The Datai combine privacy and intelligent luxury in equal measure, discovers Nick Walton
I
t’s early morning and I’m standing alone on a pristine strip of white sand beach. Before me the tranquil Andaman Sea winds its way around a clutch of forested islands before galloping towards the Indian Ocean; behind towering peaks emerge from the ancient rainforest. It’s blissfully silent save for the wash of waves upon the sand and the morning gossip of tropical birds. Despite only being an hour’s flight from the Malaysian capital, at The Datai it’s possible to feel like the only person in the world. The Datai, located on Langkawi’s northwest coast, is one of those beautifully-established, nothing-to-prove-to-anyone resorts beloved by the well-heeled and well-travelled. There are no gimmicks, no DJs, no mixologists, no fluro-hued stick-it notes, no beach parties, and no crowds. Nature permeates every aspect of the hotel, from the monkeys that entertain sundowner sipping guests, to the leopards occasionally spied on the golf course. The Datai’s architecture and its sustainable ethos help it slip into its
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stunning natural environment effortlessly. Whispered among confidants, and coveted by those in the know, The Datai has been Langkawi’s luxury hallmark since it opened on the island’s most idyllic beach in 1993. Designed by Acclaimed architect Kerry Hill in collaboration with interior architect Didier Lefort of Didier Lefort Architects (and later beautifully revived by award-winning Indonesian designer Jaya Ibrahim), the resort is elegant and unashamedly luxurious without being ostentatious, and has maintained its grand dame status under the direction of acclaimed general manager Arnaud Girodon. From the lobby, with its koi ponds, piano bar, and stunning sea views, the resort terraces down, through wings of elegantly-appointed canopy rooms, towards the beach, where the coveted Beach Villas are secluded in a resort-within-a-resort. While the resort has accommodation for everyone, from 54 guest rooms and 16 suites to 40 villas, you could be forgiven for never wanting to
FAMILY HOLIDAYS
17
stray from your luxurious one or two-bedroom Beach Villa hideaway. Ringed by high fences and wreathed by tropical gardens, each villa boasts levels of privacy rarely encountered in newer resorts. There’s a stand-alone living room with complimentary minibar, dining table, and lounges set around an entertainment suite. Beyond the sizable private plunge pool and sun loungers is a path to the beach. From the king-sized bed in the main villa, with its cathedral-like bathroom and deep soak tub, walk-in wardrobe, and outdoor and indoor showers, it’s possible to see Tarutao islands which shelter Datai Bay, named by Nat Geo as one of the world’s top 10 beaches. In keeping with the resort’s Old School charm Beach Villas come with a charming butler at your beck and call.
of monkeys. Alternatively enter the jungle with a local medicine man to learn about healing traditions along a 500 metre train that ends at a jungle stream.
At breakfast in the poolside Dining Room, The Datai’s cult status is confirmed; eavesdropping shamelessly, I hear couples discussing over Malay-inspired egg dishes and detox shakes how they plan to spend the first of their 20 days at the resort. Two others from the United Kingdom calculate how many times they’ve visited and lose count after 30.
Another true drawcard for the resort is its adjacent Ernie Els-designed 18hole championship golf course. Named world’s best at the inaugural World Golf Awards in 2014, the course winds its way through mountain valleys before arriving at a dramatic coastline. The resort’s spa, home to acclaimed treatments like the Tongku Batu hot stone ritual, is also due to be rebuilt but promises to retain its intimate, luxurious ambiance.
Of course, if you can pry yourself from your Villa, there’s plenty to do, whether you’re staying for a weekend or a month. A must are the nature walks into the 10 million year old rainforest hosted by island nature guru Irshad Mobarak. The complimentary morning and evening walks delve into the flora and fauna of Langkawi, with a focus on the many exotic residents of The Datai, including rare hornbills and troops
Finally, once you’ve had your fill of romantic pool-side dining in your villa, venture out to visit the recently refurbished Gulai Houe, home to delicious and inspiring traditional Malay cuisine, served in a modern rendition of a stilted home. Iconic Malay dishes like Rendang Udang Galah Perak and Urap Sayuran Desa are executed with fine-dining precision by executive chef Richard Millar and his team. www.thedatai.com.my www.explorer-magazine.com
18 JAPAN
The Reawakening
of Hakodate Chiara Terzuolo visits the quiet,
unassuming Japanese port town of Hakodate, the gateway to the island of Hokkaido and the newest destination for the country’s iconic bullet trains.
www.explorer-magazine.com
JAPAN
19
A
s the plane began its wobbly descent, the dark six pointed star of the Goryokaku, Japan’s first (and most beautiful) Western-style fortress, filled the little window beside me, an unusual welcome to the port town of Hakodate, which is once again reclaiming its position as the gateway to Hokkaido. Hakodate’s dramatic rise to prosperity started in 1859, when it was selected to be one of the first trading posts with the West. The world poured into Hakodate, leaving its mark in the dramatic cupola-topped churches, colourful mansions and red brick warehouses that circle the port. The advent of air transport, however, slowed sea trade, and the city settled into being a beloved, if minor, spot for a quiet vacation. However the city is once again stirring. In March, that miracle of Japanese engineering, the shinkansen (bullet train), came streaking through the chunnel from the mainland. I arrived in Hakodate only a month before the event, and you could almost hear the bated breath, the scrubbed up city proof of excitement and expectation. During every conversation I had, someone mentioned the bullet train; the excitement was palpable. After a whirlwind of interviews, bowing and handshakes, it was all I could do to drag myself to a small, foggywindowed ramen shop, slurp down a steaming bowl of the city’s famous shio ramen (fine noodles in a salt-based broth, somehow light despite the fragrant oil) then fall asleep to the sound of foghorns from the bay. The next morning I rose early and slipped out of the sleepy hotel, the starched clerk bowing me out the door, and meandered towards the fish market, soon to be waylaid by a tanned lady with an adorable bonnet and serious waders. www.explorer-magazine.com
20 JAPAN
bright red bricks of the retro warehouses by the water below make the scenery timeless. Hakodate retains the faded gentility of its prosperous commercial past, as well as distinct reminders that it was once the Wild West of Japan. The outpost of Russia’s Far Eastern Federal University, a reminder of Hakodate’s proximity to the contested Sakhalin Island and its ties to that northern giant, seems less old fashioned and quaint here than it would in Tokyo. I picked my way down a random slope, admiring the rooster on the turret of one of the many Catholic churches, when the hypnotic smell of fresh bread turned my head. I honed in on a yellow stucco building, and peeking through the window and saw a wood burning stove in action. The owner was surprised, but cut a few slices of thick raisindotted bread and ground me a fresh cup of coffee. The mug was a piece of art, covered in flecks of gold, swirling patterns and hidden creatures, a dove slowly peeking out with every sip. The warm wood-floored room was lined with more examples of this intricate pottery. “Are these your work?” I asked my host. “My father’s,” he responded. Later I learned that his father is a well-known Hokkaido artist, the cup a museum quality piece. Hakodate hospitality at its best.
“It’s as fresh and genki (lively) as me!” she said, striking a pose and fearlessly holding up a crab the size of my face. The red snow crab was destined to become a grilled breakfast for the gentleman beside me, who snapped a picture of this bit of fisherman’s pride and gazed thoughtfully at the sinuous squid in the fishmonger’s tank nearby. Outside the well-scrubbed market the streets of Hakodate remained quiet, and I was the only one to board the historic tram, a lovely rumbling, chiming bit of nostalgia that connects the city from end to end. I jumped off at the Suehirocho stop and then climbed the nearest slope, away from the misty harbour. Hakodate is a narrow strip between two bays; at its thinnest point only one kilometre separates the waves. My walk started at the Old Public Hall, a Meijiera folly in buttercup and robin’s egg pastels, which deftly combines Western and Japanese architecture. Due to the early hour I had the neighbourhood basically all to myself, save for a few spritely Hokkaido grandmothers, seemingly half my height and at least twice my age, cheerfully lugging groceries up steep stairways. The fog cleared away, and I got the full effect of Hachimanzaka Slope, a straight street buttressed by solid paving stones and orderly trees that lead the eye directly to the blue of the harbour and cloud-flecked sky. The Western style mansions, the onion domes of St. Nicholas Orthodox Church, and the www.explorer-magazine.com
The day passed in a flash, and before I knew it I was riding the cable car up to see the city’s famous ‘Million Dollar Night View’. The sparkling lights of the town shaped by the water on either side make an indelible impression of a woman, waist tightly corseted with jewels and her arms spread wide to welcome travellers to Hokkaido’s shores. Over the clicking of camera shutters I heard English, Chinese, Thai, even French, and couldn’t help but feel glad that the world is once again coming to Hakodate
WELLNESS
Sublime
Samui
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f those New Year’s resolutions are yet to be acted upon, perhaps it’s time you escape to Koh Samui, one of Thailand’s favourite island playgrounds, for a detox of both body and mind at The Palms Retreat, an intimate, six-room wellness enclave. Specialising in customised holistic healing and health, The Palms recently added two unique experiences that can be incorporated into either of its acclaimed Weight Loss & Detox or Rejuvenate programmes. In addition to a variety of regular meals, healthy shakes, moderate exercises and wellness rituals, the new Detox & Do Good package provides guests with a chance to delve into local communities, such as the Samui Special Needs School, and to give back to society by assisting programmes that help under-privileged children. The resort has also partnered with Nartana, one of the most prominent artists in Koh Samui, to offer the Detox & Doodle session, in which guests can experience how art can help relieve stress and help travellers find peace. Guests participating in the Weight Loss & Detox or the Rejuvenate programme can also benefit from a range of meditation and yoga classes, as well as relaxing massages and exfoliating body scrubs. They can also make the most of their stay by taking a swing on the tennis court, swimming a few laps in the resort’s intimate pool, or simply soaking in the serenity in one of six spacious villas, wreathed in luscious green vegetation. All-inclusive retreat rates start at US$167 per night. www.thepalms-retreat.com www.explorer-magazine.com
22 DIVING
In the
Kings’ Garden NICK WALTON TRAVELS TO FAR
EASTERN INDONESIA TO DIVE AMONG THE ISLANDS OF REMOTE RAJA AMPAT ABOARD THE ALILA PURNAMA.
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first heard of Raja Ampat from a diving buddy of mine. It was one of those destinations whispered about by avid scuba divers over a few cold beers, its mention so often followed by a moment of silent wonder and reflection. You fly to Jakarta, so the story went, and then travel the length of the world’s largest archipelago, leaving civilisation behind as you reached the island of Papua, a wild place of isolated tribes, headhunting and piracy. There you would find a paradise like no other. As a traveller already swoon by the many faces of
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Indonesia, I was determined to visit, but its remoteness from the modern world kept it just beyond my grasp. Until now. From the top deck of the Alila Purnama, I watch tiny, unassuming Sorong, Raja Ampat’s big smoke, fade beyond the horizon as we motor west towards one of the most dramatic sunsets that I’ve ever seen. The sky is an explosion of colours - reds, violets, indigos and peach plume - framed on either side by the deep blue of the sea and the inky darkness of night. The waters around us are calm and
shimmer in the dusk, and my fellow travellers, cocktails in hand, are awed into a collective silence. It’s an unforgettable start to an unforgettable journey. A beautifully-constructed liveaboard built in the style of the traditional twin-masted phinisis that once plied Indonesia’s trade routes, the Alila Purnama, or Full Moon, is operated by Alila Hotels & Resorts as one of the most lavish liveaboards in Asia. A member of the coveted Secret Retreats collection, she has just five spacious cabins, including
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a sumptuous master suite with its own soak tub and panoramic balcony; a crew of 14; expansive decks cooled by the trade winds; a fleet of tenders and paddle boards; and a barman who never ceases to impress with his knowledge of vintage sundowners. I’m immediately convinced that there’s no other way to explore this remote and exotic locale. Raja Ampat, which means ‘Four Kings’, takes its name from the four main islands of an archipelago that counts more than 1,500 isles, cays, and shoals and includes Cenderawasih Bay, Indonesia’s largest marine national park. Like a lost Eden, it has wide open seas, fresh air, uninhabited, jungle-encrusted islands, powder white sand beaches, pods of resident dolphins and manta, and locals bound by both Indonesian and Papuan blood. However, people come to Raja Ampat for one thing: to dive. The Pacific and Indian Ocean currents which flow through this geographic bottleneck breathe life into Raja Ampat’s kaleidoscopic coral gardens, which have proven resilient against the bleaching and coral disease encountered around the equator. This is a garden of extensive fringe reefs, meadows of sea grass, life-protecting mangroves and wave-pounding drop-offs, the upwelling of nutrients from which seed and nurture an abundance of life. To put things in perspective, the Caribbean is home to a total of 70 coral species. Raja Ampat has 450 and counting. This, combined with a blissful lack of human interaction, ensures Raja Ampat is home to the greatest marine diversity on the planet,
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26 DIVING the odd camouflaged wobegong shark as we soar in the wake of the flowing current. Off the coast of Tomolol Island, we dive deep to enter Eddie’s Cave, which emerges again in a vast coral garden popular with shoals of glass and lion fish. I don’t know who Eddie was but I’m sure he couldn’t have been prouder. However, it's not all about diving; many afternoons we make for a deserted beach – there are literally hundreds to choose from – and the ship’s company sets up camp, complete with chilled towels, snorkeling gear and umbrellas. At one remote cove I stumble across a ranger’s camp, interrupting an early dinner. Three young Indonesian rangers live at the camp for three weeks at a time and patrol at night in search of illegal fishing boats. On another, we pass through pearl farms protected by the Indonesian navy en
not to mention some pretty sensational dive experiences. Alila Purnama’s general manager, a charismatic, world-wandering Spaniard named Mario, doubles as the ship’s senior dive instructor and with his trusty sidekick Zhou “Tiger” Taige, a young Chinese dive instructor from Hangzhou, leads challenging yet exhilarating double-daily dive excursions (two of us also enjoy a night dive as part of our Advanced Open Water course). From Balbulol Lagoon, a series of shallow, sun-kissed pools nestled in a labyrinth of limestone islands; to the whipping currents that swirl around Nudie Rock, popular with schools of jackfish; and Yillet Island, loved for its dramatic wall dives, every site offers its own challenges and its own adventures. This is not the Maldives or Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, this is an unruly frontier churned by powerful currents and teeming with so much life the water can often appear murky. I’m joined on the Purnama by four other guests – Sayan and Tina, a lovely couple from Bali who still have that honeymoon vibe seven months in, and acclaimed Spanish painter Miquel Barceló and his Thai wife Rose, a notable chef. It’s the perfect balance; we have youth and age, different cultures and backgrounds, but are drawn together by a love of exploration and by the wonder of Raja Ampat. www.explorer-magazine.com
Although Rose and Tina are new to diving and spend much of their time in the tutelage of the ever-smiling, ever-tyrannical Taige (Sayan and I promptly nickname her Tiger Shark), they are soon diving with the rest of the group, tracking the samba sways of reef sharks, lingering over forests of tree coral in key lime, lavender and peach melba; and learning to adjust their buoyance in the sometimes formidable tidal currents. At the Boo Windows, we trace a wall punctuated with vibrant soft corals and nudibranches to a series of submerged ‘windows’ in the limestone base of the tiny island. Here we hook on to rocky outcrops and join inquisitive plate-sized batfish and
route to the cavernous Tomolol Cave on the island of Misool, a sacred place for both the island’s Muslim and animist communities. We wade into the dark recesses of the cave, donning head lamps before diving through a submerged tunnel into another cave that in turn opens onto a lush hidden garden, framed by stalactites the colour of alabaster. Afterwards we chase the sun home, the nimble tender skimming across the mirrorlike waters of a tidal estuary as the final rays of light crown the island’s distant peaks. Each day we return to the ship to a smiling crew who dish out fruit cocktails and warm towels, relieving us of our gear like beaming butlers. Evenings climax with gourmet dinners with distinct regional twists, often using seafood
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last. The sun is already scorching by the time we leave the Alila Purnama, bound for a dive site called Manta Sandy, where, at 15 metres down, we hook on to dead coral outcrops while fighting the turbulence of a strong current, and watch graceful manta rays the size of Mini Coopers visit a ‘cleaning station’, where fish nip away at parasites and dead skin on manta rays, sharks and turtles. With an effortless wiggle the huge manta soars over us like a
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great bird of prey. We follow two smaller rays, this time equipped with just snorkels, as they swim just below the surface, their movements infinitely graceful. Finally, Mario’s pièce de résistance is destination dining at its best. We’re ferried across a darkened bay towards a beacon of light that turns out to be a deserted beach clearing where burning torches ring a dining table decorated with fresh flowers. Under a startling canopy of stars, my new friends and I marvel at the captivating beauty of Raja Ampat, thank the various gods for its isolation, and raise a toast to the mesmerising underwater paradise of the four mythical kings who once ruled this tiny, enticing corner of the globe. May they reign forever.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Getting There: Garuda Indonesia connects many international destinations with Jakarta and connects on to Sorong via Makassar. www.garuda-indonesia.com
Cruising: Alila Purnama, a member of Secret Retreats, offers private charters and single cabin buy-ins from US$14,000 per couple for 6 nights. www.secret-collections. com
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28 INDIA
COLOUR
& LOVE Will Thierbach braves the colourful
frenzy that is Jodhpur’s annual Holi festival.
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Photos by Will Thierbach
was finally headed to Holi! After two years of scheduling challenges, I was finally on my way to India’s Holi festival, travelling with Gary Tyson of F8 Photography (f8photography. com.hk), a good friend and talented professional who runs great photography workshops throughout Asia. Jodhpur and Holi promised to provide some of the most spectacular subject matter imaginable and I was ready to go with an arsenal of weather-proofed camera gear, extra batteries, charcoal pills and mosquito spray. After a brief respite in Delhi, we trundled off to the train station for our overnight carriage to Jodhpur. We specifically chose the train over a short flight; while 12 hours in a 2nd class sleeping car held little promise of sleep, it was certain to deliver plenty of fun and great photo ops as we prepped for Jodhpur. Indian train stations deliver their own special magic; families traversing the massive country, people commuting to work, tourists getting lost, and local life simply unfolding in the most beautiful ways. I was advised to watch for travellers leaping through emergency windows (the only ones without bars) to board massively crowded train cars as they pulled away from the station and I wasn’t disappointed.
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Somehow I managed a few hours of sleep and awoke to the stark landscape of the Thar Desert. Jodhpur, the second largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan, is located in the arid northwest of India. A popular tourist destination featuring palaces, forts and temples, Jodhpur is known as the “Sun City” for its year-round warm and sunny weather. However, I had come to know Jodhpur as the ‘Blue City’, a colourful nickname derived from the distinctive blue buildings that dominate the cityscape. This sea of blue was thought to have emerged due to India’s caste system; Brahmins, the priestly class as the top of the caste hierarchy, would paint their homes blue to set them apart from those of the lower castes. However, over time, many non-Brahmin homes also turned blue, leading to one theory postulating that the Indigo dye was a strong defense against termites, thus weakening the caste system argument. Regardless, at sunset, while enjoying a cold beverage atop one of the city’s many rooftop cafes, the beautiful blue vistas evoke wonder and joy, with little thought as to how or why. Upon arriving in Jodhpur, we were met by our hosts from the wonderful Indrashan Homestay (www. indrashan.com). Chandra and Bhavna Singh have turned their beautiful private home into an urban oasis.
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Authentic décor and generous rooms enhanced with family heirlooms provide the perfect retreat from the heat and chaos. Mrs. Singh runs the kitchen and also teaches the secrets and mysteries of Rajasthani cuisine to eager guests; I promise you won’t leave hungry. In addition to the amazing Holi experience, Jodhpur is a wonderful place to explore on its own. Chief among its many charms is Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India. Built around 1460 by Rao Jodha, the fort sits high above the city and is enclosed by imposing thick walls. Seven gates must be crossed to gain access to the fort and you can still see remnants of cannonball strikes on the second gate from when the armies of neighbouring Jaipur attacked the city. Today the fort is a sprawling museum that is home to myriad exhibits depicting the history of Jodhpur, its artifacts, rulers and culture. The many palanquins, carvings, arms, costumes, paintings, courtyards and decorated period rooms are not to be missed. We had come via plane, train, automobile and tuk-tuk to experience Holi, a Hindu spring festival in India and Nepal, also known as the ‘festival of colours’ or the ‘festival of shared love’. Celebrated during the month of Phalgun, on full-moon day, which comes in late-February or earlyMarch according to the Hindu calendar, Holi has an ancient origin and champions the triumph of good over evil. Casting aside the caste system, the vibrant festival crosses social and economic boundaries, renews relationships, and spreads love and joy as people hug and wish each other “Happy Holi”. In Jodhpur, the observance starts the evening before Holi www.explorer-magazine.com
32 INDIA with the reenactment of Holika, a Hindu demoness, being charred to ashes by Vishnu. Large pyres are assembled with wood, cow dung, fertiliser, coconut husks, flowers and other items from the spring harvest and lit ablaze. The eldest individual in the gathering lights the fire and leads a cacophony of music, shouting and dancing into the evening. The next day is the colour festival, when the streets teem with children, teens and adults wielding water balloons and neon-coloured powder ready to wage the happiest war you will ever experience. With my camera gear wrapped up as safely as possible, I donned my local garb and headed out at sunrise to begin the day. Morning light in Jodhpur is simply intoxicating; colours seem to glow and it was also the perfect opportunity to visit the families that I spent the previous few days getting to know. If you show some consideration and kindness, the Indian people are immensely gracious and generous. They will invite you into their homes, feed you and attempt to ply you with bhang, a milky drink infused with cannabis. Young men in particular, consume bhang with abandon during the celebrations, getting higher as the day goes on. Bhang-induced revelry aside, nothing I’ve ever experienced seems to incite such wild abandon, solely in the pursuit of fun and happiness. After a quick stroll amongst the alleyways and a light breakfast at a rooftop café, it was time to dive into the fray. By midmorning, the chaos is in full swing; groups of children and teens face off in water-balloon fights, stalking unsuspecting passersby from hidden doorways and rooftops (you need to keep your head on a swivel, both for great photo opportunities and to prevent becoming an easy target). Being forewarned, I sought out strategic locations hoping to capture the action. Well, that didn’t work, so instead, I walked right up to the first frenetic group I found, got summarily doused and enjoyed my wet, colourful and happy Holi inauguration. It was game on! There is no holding back; the teens literally assault you with cups of water, water balloons and coloured powder. Of course, if you politely request that they hold off, most will let you pass unscathed I chose full immersion, literally. Once I was fully soiled, my inhibitions fell aside and I spent the rest of the morning in revelry with the locals, taking pictures, being “painted” and simply feeling the joy of Holi course through me. It was incredible. Gary warned us that some of the powders would be more difficult to remove than others. One precaution was to cover any exposed skin and hair with a generous application of baby oil, in which we all partook. While it did help a bit, it was a full two weeks before all of the colours washed away, which only served as a welcome reminder of a magical week. So while the colours did fade, my Holi memories remain bright and I can’t wait for my next visit to the Blue City. www.explorer-magazine.com