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A Mother’s Mission Fighting for better safety at sea
ART OF THEIR ANCESTORS Traditional grassworking in Rigolet
Happy Valley-Goose Bay Turns 50
5 Out-of-this-World Facts About Labrador Stephen Colbourne photo
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Published by Downhome Inc. 43 James Lane, St. John’s, NL, A1E 3H3 1-888-588-6353 • www.insidelabrador.ca
Editor-in-chief Janice Stuckless
Marketing Director Tiffany Brett
Assistant Editor Nicola Ryan
Publisher and CEO Grant Young
Art Director Vince Marsh
President and Associate Publisher Todd Goodyear
Distribution and Subscription Representative Marlena Grant
General Manager and Assistant Publisher Tina Bromley
Advertising Sales Account Manager Barbara Young Account Manager Ashley O’Keefe
To subscribe, renew or change address use the contact information above.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement #40062919 The advertiser agrees that the publisher shall not be liable for damages arising out of errors in advertisements beyond the amount paid for the space actually occupied by the portion of the advertisement in which the error occurred, whether such error is due to the negligence of the servants or otherwise, and there shall be no liability beyond the amount of such advertisement. Pen names and anonymous letters will not be published. The publisher reserves the right to edit, revise, classify, or reject any advertisement or letter. © 2023 Downhome Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission of the publisher.
Printed in Canada
Official onboard magazine of
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24 table of contents 6 Editor’s Note 8 From Our Readers 10 Labrador: By Birth or By Choice The reasons to call this place home
14 A Mother’s Mission Becoming an advocate for marine safety
20 Many Happy Returns
46 Deep Roots The skill and art of grassworks
52 Come Home Year 2022 A trip with a twist
58 True Colours 60 Galaxy Quest Out-of-this-world Labrador facts
64 Photo Finish
HVGB celebrates 50 years
24 Welcome Aboard A family-run boat tour in Red Bay
32 Labrador Life 34 All Things Labrador Sharing the Big Land’s namesake
40 The Early Days of Voisey’s Bay Behind the scenes of the historic discovery 4
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It’s shaping up to be a celebratory year in Labrador.
The Labrador Games have returned to Happy ValleyGoose Bay. Held every three years, it’s especially nice that their timing coincides with the 50th anniversary of the Town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay. We recently spoke with the anniversary committee about the community’s evolution from military installation to “heart of Labrador,” and how the milestone will be marked (see page 20). It was 50 years ago that a Labrador MHA began designing a flag to unite the Big Land; Michael Martin’s Labrador flags were first publicly unfurled on March 31, 1974 (the day before the 25th anniversary of Newfoundland and Labrador’s birth as a province of Canada). The flag is just one of 10 fascinating things with Labrador in the name that we recently read up on (see p. 34). And the Labrador Heritage Society turns 50 this year. This non-profit organization operates the Labrador Heritage Museum in a former Hudson’s Bay Company store, preserving the history and culture of central Labrador while adding to the tourism value of North West River. Congratulations to them, and to one of their founders, Joe Goudie. A well-known and respected Labradorian, Joe was awarded the Order of Newfoundland and Labrador in 2022, recognizing his contributions to the province through his work in broadcasting, politics, culture and heritage preservation, and community organizations. Every time we produce an issue of Inside Labrador, we learn something new about this ever evolving place. We hope you do, too. Thanks for reading, Janice Stuckless Editor-in-chief janice@downhomelife.com
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Everyone has a tale to tell. And we want to see your stories about Labrador. Maybe it’s a recollection of the way things used to be, or a historical piece, or a story about somebody doing great things in your community. Maybe it’s a travel story about a trip somewhere in the Big Land. Whatever your story, in verse or in prose, our readers would love to see it and so would we. If you’re better with a camera than a keyboard, you’re in luck, too - we’re also looking for photos of Labrador. From snapshots while berry picking to compositional studies of the landscape and everything in between, we love looking at your images.
Published submissions will receive $20 in Downhome certificates to spend in our stores and online at www.shopdownhome.com.
Send your photos and stories to editorial@downhomelife.com or upload them to our website at Downhomelife.com/submit.
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From Our Readers Flummies Fan
Wow! What a great story on my friends, The Flummies, by Wendy Rose [in the Fall 2022 issue]. MICHAEL T. WALL “The Singing Newfoundlander”
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BY STANLEY OLIVER
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Labrador (a.k.a. “the Big Land,” a phrase coined by the
late Winston White), this place we call home, spans over 390,000 square kilometres from the tip of Killinek Island of the Nunatsiavut territory to L’Anse-au-Clair on the Newfoundland and Labrador-Quebec border near Blanc Sablon, and from Labrador West to the Southeast Coast. As Harry Martin’s song “Visions of This Land” describes, “from the rugged beauty of the Torngat Mountains to the golden beaches on the Wonderstrand and the southern valleys of the Pinware River, they [Labrador artists] can recreate the visions of this land.” Prior to the relocation of several communities, Labrador was made up of 33 unique communities. The most recent numbers by Statistics Canada (2021) puts Labrador residents at fewer than 27,000, give or take. Now we all know that this figure may not be accurate, as population estimates tend to be cyclical and can increase or decrease given the development or pending projects in areas like Labrador. Throughout my working life, I have enjoyed opportunities to visit many Labrador communities at least once, and some several times. First and foremost, I am always in admiration and bewilderment of Labrador’s size and natural beauty. Many times, too many to count, while travelling and meeting with people, I have been in a conversation that eventually gets around to the question, “So are you from Labrador?” If the answer is no, then it becomes “What brings you to Labrador?” If you look through the history of Labrador, people have been drawn here for many work reasons: as Moravian Missionaries and as WOPS (workers without pay) of the Grenfell Association; and as employees of the Hudson Bay Company, school boards and, in the last 50 years, the Iron Ore Company of Canada, foreign military, Vale and the Muskrat Falls project. Many times, during the chats, people have told me, “Well, I only came for one year for work, but that was over 30 years ago!” So, perhaps more importantly, the question is what makes people want to stay? Some are adventurous, some are looking to explore the last frontier, some are running away from a life they would rather forget, some fell in love, and some are here merely for work and a new beginning. I would like to think that a lot of the people have stayed for fundamental personal/special reasons. Whether they stayed because of work, the true beauty of this land, the culture or the freedom to roam, or because they fell in love with its people or they were born here, people want to call this home. So, folks that is a glimpse of why I think people stay. The question then remains, why on earth would people leave such a beautiful place? SPRING 2023
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In my case, I moved temporarily for medical treatment (about 11 years ago now). I sold my house, packed up and moved to the Halifax-Dartmouth area of Nova Scotia. Now, no insult to the people from away, specifically larger metropolises, but I can tell you, it’s
crafts community or other active recreation groups (golfing, swimming, running etc.)? Labrador continues to attract individuals for all types of reasons, and we continue to live in harmony. What defines us as people is this great land
I contend that this is not the “land God gave to Cain” or some desolate place that people are forced to come to or must stay. But rather, it is a unique and beautiful place… not the same! The people are different, less approachable and somewhat standoffish (my humble opinion). Some would even say less friendly, but I leave that to you to decide for yourselves should you be in the situation. As the Labrador agenda continues to unfold and progress, we may and have seen more people come to visit, work and play. Whether you are from here or from away, Labrador is home to all of us. I contend that this is not the “land God gave to Cain” or some desolate place that people are forced to come to or must stay. But rather, it is a unique and beautiful place where we all enjoy the culture, freedom, companionship, history and, most of all, each other. All of us have different interests and skills, and it all adds to the very positive makeup of our communities. Labrador is rich in its people, and it is those people who make this place so interesting. Just imagine for a second if we didn’t have such a variety of visitors. Would we have such a thriving soccer association, a flourishing crosscountry organization, a booming fishing co-op, the love of helping orphaned animals, a vibrant arts/ 12
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that we all share. Another great song by musician Harry Martin is “This is my Home,” which ends: ’Cause I’ve seen the mountains, I’ve been to the sea, And all of their beauty is like heaven to me; Where the wild birds are flying and the caribou roam, Many places I’ve rambled, but this is my home. Where the wild birds are flying and the caribou roam, Many places I’ve rambled, but this is my home. Kind of sums it all up. I encourage people to listen to his song in full and enjoy. Stanley Oliver was born and raised in Labrador; his father is from the North Coast (Rigolet), and his mother is from North West River. Stan is an Inuit and has spent the last 30 plus years working in the natural resources and Indigenous government field. He currently holds the position of Manager with the Labrador Office of Indigenous & Northern Skilled Trades. SPRING 2023
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The tragic loss of her son at sea pushed this woman towards advocacy for the safety of others. BY KIM PLOUGHMAN
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Growing up in Mary’s Harbour, Labrador, Jeanette Russell was brined in a rich fishing community tradition. The ever-present sea was a cherished part of her coastal upbringing. These days, the saltwater of her hometown steeps the 51-year-old in a different emotion – raw sorrow.
It was near here that her son, Marc Russell, 25, and his friend and crew member, Joey Jenkins, 30, disappeared on a beautiful day in September 2021, while cod fishing. Jeanette’s world was shattered. But with time, she would find herself on a mission that would become somewhat of a life raft in her raging sea of grief. On the day of my visit to her current home in St. John’s, Newfoundland, in December 2022, Jeanette apologizes for forgetting the time, welcoming me dressed in what she calls her go-to attire these days – pyjamas. A school counsellor, she points to the cognitive challenges that come with the grieving process. “I don’t remember things anymore…”
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Marc Russell (far right) with his family. From left, sister Mackenzie and his parents Dwight and Jeanette. When asked to describe Marc, she notes he was “complex… Soft and sweet, but very blunt and opinionated.” She adds, “But people loved him and accepted him, as he was also jovial and very endearing.” From age 15, Marc Freeman Russell, an outdoorsman, started fishing every summer with his dad, Dwight. “He knew he wanted to fish for the rest of his life,” explains Jeanette. Soon, he owned his own speedboat; and by July 2021, he had purchased The Island Lady, a 28-foot vessel. She recalls the night before that fateful day, when Marc came home late
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for supper after fishing. “We chatted for several hours, and the last words I said to him as he was heading to bed was ‘I love you…’” That September 17 was the final day of the cod fishery for the season. Eager for the last haul and removal of nets, Marc was up before daybreak. By day’s end, Jeanette received a call that would forever change the Russells’ lives: the MV Island Lady was on the missing list. Denial was her first protective layer from the stark reality that her son and his friend were lost at sea. An extensive 10-day search turned
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up minimal debris, including a fishing tub and a rubber boot. Jeanette recalls that during this emotionally reeling time, notwithstanding “being held in the most beautiful ways” by the community and from people across the province, she was “not functioning very well.” Even then, memory gaps became another protective balm against the tragedy. By September 28, the search was turned over to the RCMP as a “recovery mission.” The family learned of this heartbreaking development through the media. “While we knew the day would come, there’s no way to
describe the abandonment from this heartless and devastating news.” From Grief to Advocacy It has been over a year since the tragedy that plunged Jeanette and her family into the great unknown, the mystery of what happened to Marc and Joey. Their bodies were never recovered and their boat was never found. The Transport Canada report concluded that the accident was a “suspicious catastrophic event.” As she sits in her house now, her home base since May 2022 – far from Mary’s Harbour – she laments, “The
This photo was taken by Marc’s crewmate, Joey Jenkins, who was also lost on that fateful day.
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not knowing was, and is, very challenging.” Between September 2021 and now, Jeanette has somehow weaved a countervailing grace against the shock and loss. With an articulate voice and an inner drive to help address glaring gaps, she started advocating for fishing safety. “There is no closure, always pain; but I felt the power and responsibility to speak up about my son’s and Joey’s deaths.”
Coast Guard stations and four fast craft rescue centres. Baring her soul in her speech, Jeanette admitted that “nothing in life prepares a parent” for a child’s passing. “But there is added injury when they’re missing at sea and will never come home for burial… nor provide closure from such tragedy.” Jeanette has also launched the Labrador Coalition for Search and
Some of Jeanette’s advocacy goals include a push for a federal inquiry into fishing vessel safety, an increase in Canadian Coast Guard coverage along the Labrador coast and to have 5 Wing Goose Bay upgraded to a primary Search and Rescue Centre. On November 22, 2022, Jeanette presented a powerful keynote speech at a fish harvesting safety symposium in St. John’s. Her emotional plea was for improved search and rescue services in Labrador. “Once again, like in the Burton Winters tragedy, I felt that Labrador had been abandoned by the federal search and rescue program,” she shared with those gathered. She pointed out that Labrador has an active fishery, a recreational boating industry and twice the coastline, but has “obscene” gaps compared to the island, which has 11 Canadian 18
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Rescue, to push for a federal inquiry into fishing vessel safety. “The ocean is a workplace; and should be treated as such. Will it take litigation to force this change?” She explains if location beacons (EPIRBs) were mandatory on vessels less than 12 metres long, the Russell and Jenkins families would have been saved nine days of anguish, not to mention the financial savings to Ottawa. “And there is the humanity side… families deserve to know where their loved ones are.” In December when we spoke, SPRING 2023
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Jeanette was planning a February trip to Ottawa with “a good team” for meetings and a petition. “I am hearing good things and people are invested in different ways to ensure change,” she confides. She credits well-known search-and-rescue advocate Merv Wiseman for mentoring her through the process. “I thank God for Merv everyday, for his support and knowledge.” She hopes a policy resolution submitted by Merv (which has been voted as a top priority out of 300 national resolutions) will pass at the federal Liberal AGM in early spring. It calls for 5 Wing Goose Bay to be upgraded from a secondary to a primary SAR centre. They say for every bit of suffering, there is a reason, but for Jeanette it is hard to fathom. “He was living his best life after overcoming some chal-
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lenges.” She adds, “I realize how naive I was about his safety aboard the Island Lady… I was living in a bubble...” Mackenzie, a nurse, is Marc’s oldest sister. She walks in on the interview and sits quietly, listening to her mother. When asked how she is doing, her words flow effortlessly. “It’s a complicated grief… it shifts the family dynamics and it takes longer than people appreciate.” She adds, “I feel a different sense of responsibility towards my parents… it’s hard, and no way to make it better.” Jeanette points out that if Marc had been a pilot, every effort would have been made to retrieve him and the plane. “No one should have to fight for safety, but with the fishery, you do… there is an obscene double standard and injustice that need to be addressed.”
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The town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay turns 50 this year BY NICOLA RYAN
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The town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay
has kicked off a yearlong celebration commemorating 50 years since the amalgamation of Goose Bay and Happy Valley in 1973. From unlikely beginnings during the Second World War, Happy Valley-Goose Bay has evolved into a modern town, a dynamic centre for economic development and home to some 8,000 residents. It’s a unique town in the Big Land, and the 50th Anniversary Committee is inviting one and all to celebrate, to recall the past, and to look forward to the next 50 years. Early Days In 1941, the Second World War was well underway. Germany had invaded Denmark and Norway the previous spring. Canada, Britain and the United States already recognized Labrador’s strategic importance as a stopover point for transatlantic flights, but now they also understood that its endless landscape of remote lakes, rivers and plateaus could provide plenty of opportunities for an airborne enemy invasion. A military presence in Labrador would be extremely important for the Allies’ defenses in the North Atlantic region. That summer, the Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF) selected a large sandy plateau near the mouth of the Goose River, on the traditional territory of the Innu and southern Inuit, to begin construction on a military air base. Hundreds of people travelled to Goose Bay from all over Labrador in search of steady work, and the area saw a massive influx of newcomers. The first three families to arrive to work at the construction of the base were the Saunderses from Davis Inlet, the Broomfields from Big Bay and the Perraults from Makkovik. Initially the civilian workers camped at a site called Otter Creek. But when that was deemed, for safety reasons, to be too close to the base, a new site was chosen called Refugee Cove. In those early years, life was difficult there without electricity or running water. Nevertheless, construction on the base progressed at lightning speed. Three 7,000-foot runways were built in less than five months – and just in the nick of time, as it turned out. The first military aircraft landed at the base on December 9, 1941, one day after the United States entered the war SPRING 2023
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Construction began on the airbase in Happy Valley-Goose Bay in 1941. following the December 7th attack by Japan on Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. During the remainder of the war, 24,000 Canadian and American aircraft passed through Goose Bay, making it the busiest airport in the world. After the war ended in 1944, Refugee Cove continued as a small civilian community servicing the base; in 1955, it was officially renamed Happy Valley. Schools, churches, a library and a hospital eventually sprang up, and Happy Valley had all the facilities of a modern town. Meanwhile, the Americans continued to operate the base until 1972. The following year, the local improvement district of Goose Bay and the town of Happy Valley were amalgamated: Happy Valley-Goose Bay was born.
Defense Command (NORAD) in defending North American airspace. It also supports tactical flight training activities for the air forces of Germany, the United Kingdom and Italy. Happy Valley-Goose Bay has also emerged as a centre for economic development in Labrador. The port is a major staging point for freight headed to the north coast. Commercial air traffic is busy as mobile workforces come into the region for major economic development projects at Muskrat Falls on the Lower Churchill and the Vale nickel mine at Voisey’s Bay. The town has the largest aboriginal population in Labrador, and today it’s a vibrant, diverse and resource-rich community.
50 Years Later
Anniversary Celebrations
Today, Happy Valley-Goose Bay is considered the “heart of Labrador,” the centre of activity in the region. The base, now called 5 Wing Goose Bay, still plays a key role in the community. The airport has two major runways and can accommodate the largest aircraft in the world. The base assists the Canadian Armed Forces and the North American Aerospace
Greg Osmond, community development manager for the Town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay, is enthusiastic when he describes the 50th anniversary events planned for throughout the year. Given that Happy ValleyGoose Bay is really into winter sports, the first event on the calendar was a good ol’ hockey game at the E.J. Broomfield Arena in January.
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“We just finished putting off some Montreal Canadiens Alumni tour games,” says Greg. “It was really cool, and we had a great turnout for it and everybody had a lot of fun.” The alumni team brings together legendary players from several generations. The games in Happy Valley-Goose Bay included Newfoundland-born player Terry Ryan, originally of Mount Pearl, who played with the team in the NHL in the late 1990s.
The 50th anniversary celebrations kicked off with a hockey game with the Canadiens alumni team. At press time for this issue in January, curling bonspiels for kids and adults were planned to take place at the arena in February, “and of course the Labrador Winter Games are going to be starting in March,” says Greg. The Winter Games, often called “the Olympics of the North,” are hosted in Happy Valley-Goose Bay every three
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years, so it’s extra special that they are happening this year, Greg says. The Games bring together hundreds of athletes, volunteers and spectators from all regions to compete in a series of athletic events based on skills essential to the lives of Labradorians. Some of these are traditional skills including snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and dog team racing. Other events recall the lives of pioneering trappers: the Labrathon, for example, combines setting a trap, sawing through wood, shooting a target, boiling a pot of snow, and chiselling through the ice. The Games are an engaging way to celebrate culture and heritage, as well as individual athletes, and are among the biggest events in all of Labrador. “We’re piling up our calendar,” Greg continues, noting that 2023 has been declared Come Home Year for the Town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay. “We’re setting aside three weeks in particular for Come Home Year where we’re going to have lots of events on the go. That’s going to be July 28 to August 13.” All former residents, and their friends and families, are invited to return for a visit. If you’re overdue for a trip home, or were considering visiting the “heart of Labrador” sometime, with all the town has in store, this is the year to do it.
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A new family-run tour boat operation has launched in Red Bay. BY LINDA BROWNE
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When Rick Gibbons and Shena Fowler were
getting ready to christen their newly purchased boat, Perfect Timing, little did they know the irony of that name at the time. It was 2019, and the stepdaddaughter duo were preparing to get their tour boat business, located in scenic and historic Red Bay in Southern Labrador, off the ground and into the water. Then the COVID-19 pandemic in early 2020 put a screeching halt on their launch.
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Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures owners Shena Fowler and Rick Gibbons on board the Perfect Timing 1
It’s been challenging running a business over the past couple of years, let alone launching a new one. And while such hurdles might lead some folks to throw in the towel, Rick and Shena’s love of the land and sea, and their passion for sharing the area’s rich history, heritage and culture, have helped them stay the course.
Up She Rises With about four decades as a fisherman under his belt, you might say Rick, who hails from Red Bay, has saltwater running through his veins. Just as he grew up fishing with his own father in the Strait of Belle Isle, Shena spent time with her stepdad out on the water, learning the ropes and developing a deep appreciation for her surroundings. 26
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“Ricky always had his own fishing boat... and it kind of made me want to have my own business when I grew up,” says Shena, who’s from nearby Capstan Island. When the fishery started taking a turn, Shena set her sights on other possibilities. “I asked him one day what he thought about touring around Red Bay… and I don’t know if he thought I was serious or not at the time,” she chuckles, “but I guess he thought about it, and we started doing up a business plan and started looking for a boat.” While the pandemic meant the vessel spent her first couple of years in dry dock, Shena and Rick later rechristened her Perfect Timing 1. (“My mother told me that it was bad luck to rename a boat… but we SPRING 2023
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Excited passengers spot some whales near the shore.
renamed her anyway,” Shena laughs.) Last spring, they officially launched the inaugural season of Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures. Pretty much the whole family’s on board this venture. Rick is the skipper. First mate Shena does “a little bit of everything,” she says, from acting as tour guide and telling stories, to tending bar and serving food. Her mother, Amanda, works in the office, greeting guests and helping things run smoothly. The family also operates a small gift shop inside the waterfront building at the public dock, where they sell everything from shirts and hats to handcrafted souvenirs they make themselves, including knitted
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dish cloths and slippers, and live edge wooden pieces. “Mom does the knitting, and I do embroidery and wood burn, and then Ricky does some painting,” Shena says. All things considered, and with their limited marketing, Rick and Shena say they fared well their first season. In 2022, they welcomed about 450 guests aboard Perfect Timing 1, who came from as nearby as Quebec and across the US, and as far away as Greenland, Switzerland, Germany and Australia. “We had a lot of live entertainment,” says Shena, noting they have musicians from Labrador and Quebec’s Lower North Shore performing for
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Passengers are shown some of Red Bay’s history such as this shipwreck. Passengers can also try their luck at catching a cod. their guests. “They were always asking, ‘Oh, one more song, one more song.’ And then we get to the wharf, no one was in a rush to get off the boat. They were hanging around, having a chat and everyone had a great time. We had a lot of good feedback from everybody.”
Awash in History In the early 1500s, Basque whalers from France and Spain came to Red Bay in droves, making it the largest whaling port in the world. Today, visitors flock to the renowned UNESCO World Heritage site to experience its stark beauty, learn of its intriguing past and importance on the world stage, and catch a glimpse of the majestic whales that roam the waters today. A search for whales, porpoises, icebergs, seals and seabirds is one part of 28
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the experience with Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures. You’ll also get a history lesson. Hearing him speak about the Red Bay Co-operative Society (formed by local fishermen in 1896, with the help of Dr. Wilfred Grenfell), and the families and businesses that helped shape the region, it’s clear that Rick’s passion for his home runs deep. “For the harbour tour, we focus on the heritage and culture... There’s also a shipwreck in the harbour… we pass right along by that every tour… and so we can see practically everything in Red Bay that’s of any importance by water,” he says. “I just love being on the water. And the people – the conversations you have with the people... I just love to share stories of Red Bay with anybody I can.” Shena, who is a heavy equipment operator when she’s not working with SPRING 2023
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Above: Passengers can look forward to some tunes from local musicians. Left: Whaler’s Quest has visitors from all over the world. Here some passengers mark on a map where they are from. the family business, shares her stepdad’s affinity for the sea. “I’ve been a heavy equipment operator for five or six years now, and being in a mine surrounded by dirt and more dirt and dust, getting back out on the water, that’s probably my favourite,” she says. “On the water feels like home, in a way, to me.” Their 42-foot boat (certified for 39 passengers and two crew), Shena adds, is the perfect size for her and the
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skipper to get to know their guests. “It’s almost like we get to have an individual conversation with everybody and listen to everyone’s stories – where they came from, where they’re going,” she says, pointing out that they’ve had every kind of traveller from hitchhikers to RVers. “Everyone’s story was really unique.” Shena and Rick have also enjoyed
glimpse of an iceberg that Rick had spotted earlier that morning. “We had a bunch of people on the boat, they were starting to get a little bit discouraged,” Shena recounts, “and so we kept on going and all of a sudden, the iceberg broke through the fog and everyone, you know, arms up in the air… they were so excited. And on the way back, everyone kind of had a
helping guests celebrate some special moments. Last summer, aboard Perfect Timing 1, they rang in Rick’s father’s 86th birthday with all his friends, hosted a wedding party and took one couple out cod fishing. Looking ahead to their upcoming season (which runs from June 1 to October 1), they hope to build upon last year’s success and take stock of how they can improve to ensure the business runs smoothly for the long haul. They’re also keeping their fingers crossed for few foggy days and for northerly winds that will blow icebergs into the Straits. Shena recalls one tour in particular when they sailed for six miles through dense fog to catch a
little bit of a chill… so everyone was in the cabin and they all had a little shot of Screech,” she remembers. “It was an awesome summer, I’ve got to say... and I really hope for this summer it’s the same thing.” While ensuring their guests have a good time is crucial for the business’s success, sharing what’s special about the area is what really floats Rick’s boat. When he’s out on the water, he says, time stands still. “Shena got to tell me sometimes, ‘Look at your watch.’ But I don’t even notice [the time],” he says. “I just love what I’m doing there, and hopefully the people we take out will love it just as much.”
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Labrador Life
A World Apart
A beautiful, traditional scene in West St. Modeste. TANYA NORTHCOTT via DownhomeLife.com
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The Eagle has Landed A stunning visitor perches out on the river in Labrador West.
TIM COLLINS Labrador City, NL
On the Labrador Silver Labrador puppy Banner poses at the cabin.
TANAYA TRAVERS Labrador City, NL
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o you d h c gs mu How about thin know med for na R
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AD R B A L
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LABRADOR FLAG Michael Martin was the Labrador South MHA in the provincial government when he designed this flag in 1973. This simple design belies its layers of meaning; every component was chosen with great thought. The white bar is the snow, which has the greatest influence on the northern way of life. The green signifies the importance of the land (it’s the thinnest bar because Labrador’s snow-free seasons are short). The blue is for the waterways, so crucial to transportation and sustenance. A lot of symbolism is borne by the spruce twig. Its two years of growth honours the past and the future, while the three outer tips represent the Inuit, Innu and white settlers of Labrador – their unity is in the single stem that connects them.
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ODE TO LABRADOR Dr. Harry L. Paddon penned the lyrics to “Ode to Labrador” in 1927 – but the music they’re set to is almost 100 years older. “Ode to Labrador” is usually sung in the same tune as “O Tannenbaum,” composed in 1824 by Ernst Anschütz. Paddon was a British physician who came to Labrador with the Grenfell Mission in 1912 and remained until 1939. Coincidence perhaps, but Paddon’s tribute to his adopted land was written the same year that Labrador’s boundary with Quebec was finalized, something that had been in dispute since the end of the Seven Years’ War in 1763.
LABRADORITE This fascinating rock is so named because it was discovered near Nain, Labrador. It has since been found in Norway, Finland, Poland, Slovakia, Madagascar, China, Australia and the United States. This calciumenriched feldspar mineral is grey to black but can reflect light to illuminate shimmering colours – an effect called labradorescence. Because of this, labradorite is often used in jewelry making. As a crystal, it is desired for its healing, energizing and protective powers. According to legend, the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) were trapped inside labradorite and released to the skies when the mineral was broken open.
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LABRADOR HUSKY
Crystal Peddle photo
This unique breed of dog developed over centuries. Almost 2,000 years ago, Thule Inuit from Alaska arrived in Labrador with their husky type dogs, used for transportation and hunting. Over the years, those dogs were crossbred with wolves and other huskies. Labrador huskies are big and strong, with thick coats to weather the severe cold and webbed feet for crossing deep snow. They are excellent sled dogs, are very intelligent and trainable, and make good pets.
LABRADOR WOLF Distinct from the Newfoundland wolf (extinct) and the grey wolf, the Labrador wolf (Canis lupus labradorius) is native to Labrador and northern Quebec. Their main food source is caribou, but they will dine on anything meaty, from moose to mice and ravens to fish. First identified in the early 1900s, it was overhunted in the first half of that century. The elusive Labrador wolf has rarely been seen or photographed, so its population status is unknown and generally considered endangered.
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LABRADOR TEA
LABRADOR TARTAN
Labrador tea is the name of both a drink and the species of rhododendron from which it is made. In fact, there are three species of this Labrador plant: northern Labrador tea, bog Labrador tea and western Labrador/trapper’s tea. It’s a pretty plant with fuzzy green leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers. The leaves are steeped to make a medicinal tonic and they are used to season meat (especially wild game), but consumers must be careful because the plant can be toxic if used incorrectly.
Threaded with some of the colours in the Labrador flag – white, green and blue – this tartan honours Labrador’s Scottish heritage. According to the Scottish Register of Tartans, the thread pattern was derived from the family tartan of Donald Smith, aka Lord Strathcona. As an employee of the Hudson’s Bay Company, Smith was instrumental in establishing the trapping and trading enterprise with Indigenous people and settlers in Labrador’s pioneer days.
LABRADOR DUCK You’ll only encounter a Labrador duck in a museum today; this species of waterfowl was last seen alive in 1878. It was also known as the pied duck and even skunk duck (due to the male’s black and white markings). While their breeding grounds were in Labrador, they overwintered farther south along the Eastern Seaboard, mostly in the New England states. They weren’t a good eating bird (they reportedly tasted awful), but they may have been preyed upon for their eggs and feathers. Also, loss of habitat and food source (they fed mainly on mussels) due to human activities may have sealed their fate.
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LABRADOR RETRIEVER
Bailey Parsons photo
Long heralded as the most popular dog breed in North America, the Labrador retriever can be yellow, black or chocolate brown. It is a descendent of the St. John’s water dog, a Newfoundland breed that is now extinct. The retrievers, often just called “Labs,” are known for their playfulness, love of the water and good temperament. In addition to making excellent pets, Labs are commonly employed for hunting, military and police work, rescue, accessibility guides and therapy.
LABRADOR CURRENT Named for its path along the coast of Labrador, through the Labrador Sea, the Labrador Current brings cold water – and icebergs – all along the northeast and eastern coast of Newfoundland. It also moves along the spring sea ice that carries whelping seals (and the occasional polar bear). When it wraps around the southern part of the island and meets the warm Gulf Stream, it helps produce the legendary fog and the historically rich fishing grounds of the Grand Banks. The Labrador Current actually originates in the Arctic Ocean and is fed freshwater from the Hudson Strait and Baffin Bay.
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A geologist’s view behind the scenes of the most important mineral find of the 20th century BY VICTOR A. FRENCH, P. GEO
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The 1990s discovery of the nickelcopper-cobalt deposits at Voisey’s Bay, just south of Nain, by local prospectors triggered the largest single staking rush in Canadian mining history. This discovery was touted worldwide as the most significant mineral discovery of the 20th century. My introduction to and involvement in this exciting discovery was at the leading edge of the exploration boom that followed in Labrador.
Above: Archean Resources (Diamond Fields) base camp in the early days. Previous page: Tent camps on Discovery Hill, established for line cutting work.
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Voisey’s Bay is located about 35 km southwest of Nain I was sitting in my office in downtown St. John’s, NL, one afternoon in August 1993, when I received a call from Chris Verbiski and Albert Chislett of Archean Resources Ltd., asking if they could meet with me. Within 15 minutes, Chris showed up with a map of a small block of 32 mining claims they had staked in a place called Voisey’s Bay. At that time, I owned a mineral exploration consulting and service company, Shear Exploration Limited, operating out of Bay Roberts. They asked if I could carry out line cutting (gridding) on the claim group. I recall looking at the map and asking where in Labrador was Voisey’s Bay, as I had not heard of it before. At the time, Chris and Al were working for mining promotor Robert Friedland of Diamond Field Resources, prospecting for diamonds in Labrador. During their work, now well documented, they had discovered a rusty weathering zone (referred to as gossan). Although not being indicative of diamonds, the discovery was of great interest because rusty weathering zones are typically caused by concentrations of metals of potential economic importance. Samples
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collected by the prospecting duo and forwarded for assaying confirmed there was copper, nickel and cobalt mineralization – the same metals being mined in major mining districts such as the Sudbury Basin in Ontario. I sent a nine-man field crew made up of Newfoundland workers from places such as Jackson’s Arm, York Harbour and Clarke’s Beach to Voisey’s Bay. They flew into Goose Bay and then on to Nain. From Nain the crew, equipment and supplies were transported by helicopter to the Discovery Hill site on the Voisey’s Bay claim block, where the crew set up the site’s first tent camp. Over the next couple of weeks they completed the required line cutting, removed the camp and returned home.
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Next, Archean Resources Ltd. carried out a surface geophysical survey over the area we gridded, to measure the electrical and magnetic responses typically produced by the metals; the extent and intensity of the measurements would map out the size of the mineralized zone. The results from the survey not only confirmed the presence of metals around the rusty weathering, but also they showed the positive responses extended beyond the rusty zone – and beyond the limits of the gridded area. Based on these results, I was contracted to send a Shear Exploration crew back to the work site to carry out additional gridding, to allow for extending the geophysical surveys to determine the overall limits of the mineralization.
This second phase of gridding began in late October-early November, when winter conditions had already set in. I recall several of the work crew were reluctant to return to the site, as they believed I was “sending them to spend Christmas in northern Labrador!” They were somewhat lighthearted in their concerns, but it was in their minds because the amount of gridding to be done was not confirmed. Indeed, winter conditions including frozen snow-covered ground prevailed, and it was a challenge using chainsaws to cut the grid lines over the hilly topography. Unknown to me at the time, in many areas the workers had to secure themselves by ropes to avoid slipping on the slopes where
Helicopter slinging camp gear to the work site
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Shear Exploration work crew setting up the first canvas tent camp on Discovery Hill.
sections of the grid lines had to be established. The crew were highly experienced and, allowing to their diligence and extreme caution, the work assignment was completed without incident. Fortunately, the crew had a more comfortable camp for the harsher winter conditions. The more permanent base camp had heated and serviced insulated tents commonly used for exploration in northern areas. These early days at Voisey’s Bay were of quiet excitement and anticipation, and details of the initial fieldwork and results were kept highly confidential. The significance of the new discovery was not fully understood, and both Diamond Fields and Archean were 44
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extremely cautious in maintaining the secrecy of the discovery. The second phase of gridding and surveying showed that the mineralization extended well beyond Discovery Hill to include the very rich Ovoid Zone and the Eastern Deeps deposits. As a result, thousands of claims were quickly staked by Diamond Fields. This large area of the Voisey’s Bay Block of claims, encompassing the region south of Nain, has resulted in the discovery of other deposits culminating in this rich mine-producing district, now operated by Vale. The Voisey’s Bay discovery is regarded as a globally important mineral discovery leading to the largest staking rush in Canadian mining SPRING 2023
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A well-stocked kitchen is key to exploration camp life.
history. Chris and Al’s discovery attracted hundreds of national and international companies, prospectors and geologists. Approximately 250,000 mining claims were staked in the late 1990s and early 2000s, spreading out from Voisey’s Bay and eventually covering most of Labrador. I first started exploring for minerals in Labrador in 1979. Fuelled by the Voisey’s Bay discovery, I had the privilege to continue over 25 years exploring this vast land mass, from Hebron
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in the north to the Quebec border in the south, and from the Labrador coast to the Schefferville region in the west. My exploration work as a geologist and project manager has taken me to many places throughout Labrador, including Okak Bay, Nachvak Fjord, Harp Lake, Esker Road, Cabot Lake, Little Drunken River and Florence Lake, to name a few. I’ve seen areas of this Big Land where not many other have trodden – stories perhaps for another time.
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Grasswork, a traditional Labrador skill BY NICOLA RYAN
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“When the time comes in the fall for the grass to fade, you just want to be out there,” laughs Sarah Baikie over the phone from her home in Rigolet. We’re talking about grasswork – a traditional, artistic skill of the Inuit of Labrador, where saltwater grass is sewn to form baskets, mats, trays, vases, or most anything you please. The tradition of grassworking has deep roots in Labrador, stretching back through generations in the area up and down the coast from Hamilton Inlet. Most folks made baskets, basket lids, bowls, trays and mats. The Moravian missionaries encouraged their congregations to create grasswork crafts to sell to Europeans, and the Grenfell Mission in St. Anthony would collect grasswork items in exchange for clothes, supplies and tiny amounts of cash.
Rigolet is well known for its grasswork, and Sarah’s been practising the skill her whole life. There aren’t as many grasswork artisans around now as there used to be, but Sarah and fellow makers Belinda Shiwak (Sarah’s sister) and Jane Shiwak are keeping the tradition alive and are happy to share what they know. “When I was growing up, everyone sort of lived out in their little fishing communities and trapping communities,” says Sarah, who grew up with
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Jane Shiwak has been creating grassworks since she was 11 years old
her sister Belinda in Rocky Cove. “[Grasswork] was always there between Makkovik to Cartwright, that area along there. I don’t know how many generations it goes back into my family, but my great-greatgrandmother sewed it and she was one of the first ones.” From those early beginnings, the useful and beautiful skill of grassworking was passed down through the generations. “I learned how to do it from my grandmother and my father; he used to help teach,” says Belinda. “Watching and then learning from them just showing me what to do.” Sarah says the same. “I’ve been sewing the grass since like late ’50s, early ’60s. I learned from my grandmother, but everybody in my family sewed. I always say that it was my dad in the end who actually showed me 48
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what to do. I never ever saw him sew, but he knew how to do it.” “Rigolet got to be known for grasswork,” agrees Jane, who grew up in Cartwright, “but it was all the people that moved into Rigolet that took the skill with them from different communities.” Jane learned to sew from her mother, who had learned it from her parents. She introduced Jane to the skill at a particularly poignant time. “My mom got me into grass sewing after the residential school closed down,” she recounts. “I was 11 years old when that closed down. She got me into making crafts and making grasswork. I didn’t realize until after years was gone by that she was taking the pain away, I guess.” Grasswork items are made from sewing dried saltwater grass into tight coils. The grass, known as ivik, grows SPRING 2023
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along saltwater beaches and must be harvested after the first frost. Belinda and Sarah’s grandmother taught them how to pick the grass. “We learned you pick the grass in the fall, like late in October,” says Belinda. “It would be green grass in the summertime, and it would fade out as fall came on. When it fades out it’s white, and you can get the pinks and the greens on the ends, and that makes it
is used to split each blade of grass into smaller pieces. “You take a grass and you split the grass to thread size,” Sarah explains. “Usually you get two good threads on either side. If the grass is really good you can sew the centre one, too. But the centre one is always more brittle, and a lot of times it’ll crack after you sews it. Then you thread your needle with the skinny top of the grass.”
“It takes a lot of work,” agrees Sarah. “And it’s not something you can just pick up, like knitting, if you’re feeling tired or something. You’ve got to concentrate on what you’re doing.” pretty for when you’re sewing it in whatever you’re making. She would teach us you had to pick the grass that was stronger when you were pulling on it. You had to pick what’s best for sewing so it won’t break. Belinda continues, “When you see your grass is all faded [in the fall] and ready to be picked, there’s a real excitement.” After picking the grass, the next step is to take it home and spread it on a flat surface to dry. Once dried, it’s stored in bundles in a dry place until needed. To begin a grasswork project, a bundle of dried grass is soaked in warm water for a couple of days until it gets soft and pliable. Then a needle
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Using an over cast stitch, sew around and around a starting knot to form a coil. The way the coil is handled decides the shape of the basket. Raffia or embroidery floss can be incorporated to add designs or colour to the piece. The work can be slow and painstaking, even for experts like Jane, Sarah and Belinda. “It’s not an easy thing, you know,” laughs Jane. “You start off a piece of grasswork with a little small knot and you got to work.” “It takes a lot of work,” agrees Sarah. “And it’s not something you can just pick up, like knitting, if you’re feeling tired or something. You’ve got to concentrate on what you’re doing.”
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Craft Labrador has published howto instructions on their website to help safeguard the skill, and the Nunatsiavut Government hosts grasswork workshops throughout the year. Jane teaches some of these workshops at the Strathcona Building, the town’s cultural interpretation centre, and has worked at the Rigolet craft shop for more than 40 years. “I’ve done a lot of supervising of craft projects over the years,” she says. “Grasswork was really big here in Rigolet, but it’s only a very few that makes it now. There’s not a big lot of sewers anymore here, so that’s the reason I’m teaching. It’s important to keep the tradition alive for younger people. And hopefully, more people will come aboard and they’ll keep it going, keep on showing people how it’s done.” In 2021, the Heritage Foundation of Newfoundland and Labrador and the Craft Council of Newfoundland and Labrador added grasswork to their list of crafts that are most at risk of disappearing. But these ladies remain
hopeful for its survival. “I can’t see it dying out completely,” Belinda says. “It’s something that hopefully is passed on for a long time yet. My granddaughter can sew it. She’s got two small children, and when they gets bigger she’ll teach them.” “I guess there’s not so many people sewing it as there used to be, but there are still some,” Sarah agrees. “I know of, including myself, eight people who do it here. I got a sister-in-law in Goose Bay [well-known crafter Garmel Rich] and a niece that do it, and my daughter and granddaughter. My granddaughter [Ella Jacque] is 17, and she’s really into it.” For now, grasswork remains a special skill that connects makers with their ancestors, families and the land of Labrador. “It feels like it’s part of my roots really,” says Sarah. “It just becomes part of how you live. It’s sort of like, when the time comes to go grass picking or berry picking you just wants to do it, you got to go. It becomes part of who you are .
Some more of Jane Shiwak’s creations
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Fields of Gold
Buckets of cloudberries are destined to become tasty cheesecakes and pies. ANNETTE TATCHELL Mary’s Harbour, NL
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BY JOE CHAMPION
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In June 2020, I retired from teaching after 22 years in
Fort McMurray, Alberta. What my wife Diane and I had planned for retirement was travel, and the first place on the list was our previous home, Newfoundland and Labrador – more specifically, central Newfoundland and the town of Grand Falls-Windsor. But COVID-19 had a different plan. The virus pandemic and its restrictions put a damper on any travel from June 2020 to June 2021.
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Some snapshots from the road
By August 2021, we decided we were ready to begin our travels. With global pandemic restrictions still on, we were unable to travel anywhere outside of Canada. So we went back to our initial plan, to travel across Canada visiting family and friends, with plans to probably return to Fort McMurray by October. On August 5, we left to drive to Ontario, then take the North Shore route 138 from Quebec City to Baie Comeau, then to Labrador City and the Trans Labrador Highway (TLH). Eventually we’d reach Blanc Sablon, Quebec, to catch the ferry to Saint 54
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Barbe on the Northern Peninsula of Newfoundland. This route 138 through northern Quebec and the TLH (route 510) would be the highlight of our journey. We were encouraged by family in Labrador City to make the northern excursion, and we were not disappointed that we did. The first night after leaving Ontario we stayed just outside Montreal. The second night was spent in Baie Comeau before making the trek really north in Quebec. We had not travelled this area before, and we were somewhat unsure of where this road would take us. SPRING 2023
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First time catching mackerel (top) and cod (below), rewards of Labrador life.
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More concerning was that we would be without cell reception or contact with anybody for seven or eight hours as we drove over both gravel and paved sections of highway. Traffic was very light, and I only counted 93 vehicles in the first 400 kilometres. We were kind of driving blind, so to speak, as we were using only the road ahead as a guide. The scenery in this part of our great country is phenomenal, and we felt blessed to be able to encounter it. We saw some of the massive hydroelectric developments, including the Manic 5 Development. Gas prices were significantly more than they were in the urban areas of Quebec and Ontario, but this was due mainly to the remoteness. The prices were nothing like what we would experience in the spring and summer of 2022, as COVID effects continued to have a hold on our country and world. We spent about six days in
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Cod fishing with students of NunatuKavut Labrador West with family. Then we continued our trip on the TLH, as the family accompanied us to Charlottetown, where Diane had spent much of her childhood. We did some visiting on the coastal routes of the TLH and spent time with extended family in communities now accessible by road – unlike our first visit in the summer of 1996, when travel between communities in southern Labrador was by water or air. We had a very enjoyable time there, doing some sightseeing in a boat: watching whales and visiting some settlements only accessible by water in the summer. Little did we know at the time that this would become home to us for the winter of 2021 and 2022. After we left Charlottetown, we travelled the rest of the TLH (about 250 km) down the coast to the ferry that connects Labrador with the island of Newfoundland. This was our first time crossing to the island by 56
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boat to the Great Northern Peninsula. From there we drove to Central Newfoundland, where I had spent the first 42 years of my life, including 22 years being married and raising a family with Diane. After traversing the island from east to west, we took the ferry in Port aux Basques and headed back to Ontario to spend some time with my wife’s ailing mom. After this, our vacation took a little bit of a twist. What had started out as Come Home Year 2021, so to speak, would end with my wife making a return trip to the coast of Labrador and me taking a teaching position for the coming year, October 25, 2021 - June 24, 2022. While we were in Kitchener at my wife’s mom’s home, I got a phone call from a vice principal in Port Hope Simpson. He was inquiring if I was available to work at their school, as he had heard that I was interested in doing some substitute teaching in SPRING 2023
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Labrador. I successfully applied for the position and began teaching there on October 25, 2021. We had always wanted to do something in a different community and now the opportunity was being provided for us. We thoroughly enjoyed our next eight months in Labrador, living in Charlottetown with a population of about 250 people. I would travel 50 km each day to go to work in Port Hope Simpson as a junior/ senior high teacher. It was an enjoyable experience and one that we will not soon forget. While in Charlottetown we were able to experience
some of the Labrador ways of life and really came to appreciate the people we met. We left Charlottetown on June 24, 2022, to attend the graduation of two of our grandchildren in Fort McMurray. And in September we returned to Charlottetown, where I had accepted an eightmonth teaching position at William Gillett Academy. The province of Newfoundland and Labrador had designated 2022 Come Home Year. What started out as a vacation in 2021 became Come Home Year 2022 for the Champion family, with a twist.
A new teaching gig in Port Hope Simpson
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True Colours
Night Shift
Brilliant northern lights fill the skies over the Iron Ore Company of Canada in Labrador City. LARRY JENKINS Labrador City, NL
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Crystal Clear Fishing for char at a great spot near Natuashish. STEPHEN COLBOURNE Corner Brook, NL
Lake Effect
Pink clouds make for a perfect sunset in Nain. CONNIE BOLAND Corner Brook, NL
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5 out-of-this-world facts about Labrador BY NICOLA RYAN
OUTER LIMITS The Big Land offers amazingly clear and unobstructed views of the night sky. It’s easy to get incredible perspectives of stars and the northern lights in the Torngat Mountains National Park – but it’s not easy to get there. Located at the very northern tip of the province, the only way to get into the park is by taking a long boat ride or a chartered plane. Battle Harbour in southern Labrador, meanwhile, is a dream destination for stargazers and a little more accessible. The foundation that runs this heritage village has even organized weekend “night sky” events featuring a guest astronomer. Tim Collins photo 60
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BEAM ME UP Thousands of people turned out to 5 Wing Goose Bay on May 19, 1983, to have a gawk at NASA’s Space Shuttle Enterprise atop a Boeing Barry Yager photo 747 when it landed at the airfield for a refuelling stop on its way to a four-week tour of US, Canadian and European cities. The shuttle was a prototype, built to perform atmospheric test flights as part of the Space Shuttle program. The military airport has also been designated by NASA as an alternate emergency landing site for space shuttles, as it can accommodate any sized vehicle in the world.
SPACE ODDITY In 2018, entrepreneur Richard Graft, CEO of StarFire Scientific Inc., chose a spot near Cartwright to test launch operations for his high altitude suborbital space cannon. Basically, it’s an inexpensive way for people to launch objects into space, whether it’s research satellites or grandma’s ashes. Test flights were conducted in 2018, and as of 2021, the company was working with the Government of Canada to overcome airspace restrictions.
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HOW TO TRAIN YOUR ASTRONAUT Did you know that a crater, deep in the heart of Mushuau Innu land in northern Labrador, is the perfect training ground for future explorers to the moon? The Kamestastin Lake impact structure is a giant crater, 28 kilometres wide, caused by the impact of a meteorite some 36 million years ago. Gordon Osinski, director of the Institute for Earth and Space Exploration at Western University, recently led Canadian astronaut Joshua Kutryk and NASA Artemis astronaut Matthew Dominick on an expedition there to build on geology training they gained at the Johnson Space Center.
SCI-FI STAR Wabush native Shawn Doyle has been starring in film and television roles for more than 25 years. You might recognize him as the baddie from some of your favourite sci-fi shows. He played villainous scientist Dr. Ruon Tarka on the fourth season of “Star Trek: Discovery” and treasonous UN undersecretary Sadavir Errinwright in the futuristic world of “The Expanse.”
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photo finish
Puppy Love
Penny, an eight-week-old golden retriever, is settling right in to her surroundings. DEANNE HUSSEY Labrador City, NL
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