Drapers Digital edition: January 19 2013

JANUARY 19 2013 £6.50 www.drapersonline.com

MENSWEAR CATWALKS

The best of London Collections: Men P84 PITTI UOMO

Brands to buy from the Florence show P92 CLOSE-UP

John Smedley boss Ian Maclean P18 BRANDWATCH

Samsøe & Samsøe woos UK stockists P28

MENswEar aUTUMN 13 spEcial

THE WEEK Drapers COVER IMAGE: JUMPER, HAWICK; SHIRT, FARAH VINTAGE

Autumn’s best menswear takes centre stage

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2767 News Reporter Ruth Faulkner, 020 3033 2766 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Harriett Osborne Crowley, Colette Fahy, Sam Hardie, Melanie Parr

This week in Drapers it’s all about menswear as we unveil the first look at the key autumn 13 styles for men in the first of this season’s special issues.

Our fashion team has selected pieces from a range of menswear brands and designers for our two main shoots (p30 and p46). The first showcases our edit of the formal and tailored looks for next season; the second features the more casual styles we expect consumers to buy into. We’ve also taken still-life shots of the strongest trends to show how you might incorporate them into your buy (p58).

Drapers has also been on the road to bring you an overview of all that is new and exciting this season, starting with coverage from Pitti Uomo (p92) and London Collections: Men (p84). To complete our menswear overview, our Close-Up this week is an interview with Ian Maclean, managing director of British knitwear brand John Smedley (p18).

Don’t forget to log on to Drapersonline.com for all our live coverage of the season, and more exclusive images from our shoots (it’s free to subscribers, just log on using your subscriber number).

Look out for our second seasonal special, Streetwear, next week.

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Commercial Manager Karen Fischer, 020 3033 2957 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Laura Gee, 020 3033 2955 Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 19.01.13 REGULARS

2_ News The week’s top stories, including Bread & Butter and Pretty Green 8_ In-Depth How portals are helping indies net online sales 10_ Opinion Comment from Base London’s Mark Husted and Jeremy Hobbs’ Andrew Hobbs 14_ Fashion Index The latest clothing, footwear and accessories sales 104_ Careers Harrods’ trainee Massimo Ciabattini 116_ Off The Record Party pics and gossip from London Collections: Men

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. CDS Global. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858.

For all other subscription queries please call 01858 438847. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination

by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1.

Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479– 1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

FEATURES 18_ Close-Up

27

A Made in Britain strategy has paid off for John Smedley

managing director Ian Maclean 22_ Shopwatch Does Zara’s new flagship stand out from the crowd on Oxford Street?

101_ Return Ticket Why firms are bringing manufacturing home to escape Far East costs MENSWEAR

29_ The Edit Welcome to our essential guide to autumn 13’s major trends and key brands 30_ Sharp Objects Stripped-back simplicity and luxurious fabrics create a modern look 46_ So Much For The City Heritage and outdoor influences are freshened up with urban colours 58_ Essential Items Give your autumn 13 buying a head-start with our run-through of the top labels and trends

84

82_ Brand List Contact details for all the featured brands DIRECTIONS

25_ This Week’s Hero Judging by the LCM catwalks, we’re set for a bumper crop of orange 26_ The Buzz Hot brands and trends in our weekly round-up, including Lavenham 27_ Style Council How our panelists plan to split their autumn accessories budgets

28_ Brandwatch Samsøe & Samsøe mixes Danish cool with a Japanese twist 84_ London Collections Highlights from the must-see event of the menswear calendar 92_ Pitti Uomo The Florence menswear show delivered autumnal tones and tried-and-tested ranges 98_ This Fashion Life Selfridges’ Adam Kelly talks suits, shoes and David Beckham’s style

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 1

_Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief

News

Berlin shows urged to work together / Trade shows /

Buyers forced to split their time across the city, while slimmed-down Bread & Butter gets mixed reception

Drapers / jANUARy 19 2013 _ 2

By Ruth Faulkner & Caroline Parry

Streetwear buyers and brands are calling for the organisers of Berlin’s trade shows to work together so they can maximise their trips to the German capital, while reaction to Bread & Butter’s initial transition phase has been mixed.

With B&B, Premium, Capsule, Seek, Bright and newcomer Panorama all taking place at the same time this week, buyers were compelled to split their time across all of the Berlin shows.

Sally Heath, head of multichannel product and trends for fast-fashion retailer New Look, said she spent less than a day at B&B. “Premium, on the other hand, was heaving and definitely more popular than B&B,” Heath said. “[But] the denim hall [at B&B] was definitely better curated, with clothing, footwear and accessories all mixed up together to create a look with the right brand adjacencies.”

B&B organisers have already made moves to overhaul the show by culling

up to 25% of its long-term exhibitors, mainly mainstream brands that can be found at other trade shows, and temporarily reducing overall space by two halls, as it prepares to showcase womenswear next season.

It has also added new food areas with more cafes and bars, but the changes received a mixed reaction.

Darren Conway, buying director at seven-store southeast indie Choice, said the show seemed “a lot quieter” than in previous years. “It is very clever the way they have hidden the missing space, but there are obviously less brands and obviously less people.”

Sach Kukadia, co-founder and buying director of private Sale etailer SecretSales, added: “New shows like Panorama have also attracted a lot of attention, spreading the focus of attendees across numerous locations.

I think B&B really needs fresh innovation, which it’s currently lacking.

The show has lost direction and it’s not

more online to read more reports from the berLin shows, LoG on to www.drapersonline.com

a matter of organisation but more that the brand portfolio needs refining.”

A senior retail buyer added: “Seek is really strong and Premium is looking better so I might spend less time at B&B.” Nevertheless, brands were pleased with the buyer turnout at B&B as Drapers went to press. Andrew Townsin, country manager for UK and Republic of Ireland at French lifestyle brand Aigle, said: “There may be less people here but we’ve seen some leading buyers and retailers.”

However, Townsin added that the differences between each Berlin show needed to be made clearer, with the organisers working together to help brands and buyers plan their trips.

Andy Tompsett, head of UK for young fashion brand Merc, echoed Townsin’s view on buyer turnout. “It’s a case of quality not quantity. We’ve seen some good UK majors and strong indies.

It’s certainly not a disaster.”

/ Menswear /

Pretty Green relocates HQ to drive expansion

By Victoria Gallagher

Pretty Green plans to relocate its London headquarters as it consolidates its offices across three cities to drive expansion.

The menswear brand will close its office in Nottingham, resulting in eight redundancies across production and technical staff. Most roles at its Reading office will move to London, although its distribution centre will stay in Reading.

Pretty Green said that, due to the cities’ proximity to London, no relocation packages would be offered.

“It’s not realistic or practical to operate

three locations,” chief executive Richard Ralph told Drapers. “When you are a company that is expanding, as we are, it is important to minimise the downtime spent on trains.”

Pretty Green is now seeking a new, larger London head office from which it can accelerate growth both in the UK and overseas. At present the company has 130 staff, but this will increase by 40 over the next year.

During the same period, Pretty Green plans to almost double its store numbers, adding six locations to its portfolio of

Green pastures: expansion planned after office move in London

14. It has already set its sights on London’s Regent Street for a flagship store and will also target cities including Sheffield, Edinburgh and Bristol.

Ralph added: “We’ve had a really successful couple of years and we are keen to make sure we’ve got the right functions in place to maintain growth.”

Brand director Nigel Grant pointed to Pretty Green’s strong sales figures over recent months, including its best-ever December. For the three months to the end of December, it recorded “double digit” sales growth.

slimmed down: bread & butter has culled brands before introducing womenswear next season

time cAlled on Gio-Goi the younG fashion brand has faLLen into administration. for the fuLL story, Go to www.drapersonline.com/ news

News in Numbers

13%

of brands exhibiting at BRead & ButteR were from the uK

40 20%

increase in liKe-for-liKes during christmas trading at MCaRthuRGlen

280 brands at autumn 13 edition of Kidswear show BuBBle / Event /

Sign up to our next Gen Academy Entries are invited to attend Drapers’ Next Generation Academy in March.

The all-day event, which takes place on March 21 at Altitude in Westminster, features keynote speakers, Q&A sessions and panels, with industry leaders including Primark chief executive Paul Marchant, Pentland Brands chief executive Andy Rubin, Oasis managing director Liz Evans, The Outnet managing director Stephanie Phair and Diesel UK managing director jonny Hewlett.

The event, which aims to nurture the next generation of leaders in the fashion industry, is open to those at the start of

their careers, in their first, second or third jobs, across all fashion disciplines.

To secure your place at the academy, which is free, send @Drapers a tweet telling us why you should attend, with the hashtag #DRNEXTGEN. The academy, sponsored by Success Appointments, with partners Aurora Fashions, Arcadia and Matalan, is now in its fourth year. The academy is part of Drapers’ Next Generation initiative.

For more information on the Next Generation Academy, go to www.drapersonline.com/nextgen

2.9%

drop in retail liKe-for-liKes at FRenCh ConneCtion in the 24 weeKs to January 12

2nd

Cos store in the middle east due to open in dubai in the spring

Drapers / jANUARy 19 2012 _ 3

new stores planned by Value retailer seleCt in 2013

/

Brands /

News

Christopher Kane sets sights on ‘next level’ after PPR investment

Drapers / jAnuARy 19 2013 _ 4

By Caroline Parry

Christopher Kane will launch an online store as part of plans to “take it to the next level”, after French luxury group PPR took control of the designer label.

PPR, which also owns Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, bought a 51% stake in the British label this week.

Speaking to Drapers, Alexis Babeau, managing director of PPR, said the company takes ecommerce “extremely seriously” and that it had already started work on developing the right online experience for Christopher Kane.

However, he added that he could not “commit” to launching a site this year.

He said: “It is an important aspect for luxury, but we have to do things properly and provide the customer with the right shopping experience.”

Christopher Kane will also begin searching for its first store, which could open as early as next year. Babeau said: “Our vision is to grow the brand, starting with a retail presence. We will now start looking for the right location in London.”

He said there was no “ready-made plan” for Christopher Kane’s roll-out but it would open stores “gradually”, pointing to the expansion of Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, which opened about 20 stores in 12 years.

/

Home shopping /

Trend-led revamp for JD Williams n Brown will give its plus-size fascia jD Williams’ womenswear collection a more contemporary makeover in a bid to boost sales to older women.

Speaking to Drapers as the home shopping group announced an 8.5% increase in sales for the 19 weeks to january 12, n Brown chief executive Alan White said older female customers wanted more fashionable product and that it is a key area for sales growth in 2013.

Home grown: Christopher Kane will continue to show in London (spring 13, pictured)

“We started some work in the autumn to make our jD Williams offer a bit younger and more fashionable, and we want to continue,” he said.

White added that jD Williams is not targeting a younger customer but will incorporate younger, trend-led detailing, including peplum skirts and dresses, and brighter colours.

It is hoped the changes will accelerate growth at jD Williams, which accounts for about 40% of n Brown’s overall business, from low single digits to mid single digits over the course of the year.

White is due to step down as chief executive in the second half of the year.

Plans will include international retail expansion, particularly in Asia. Babeau said: “We have a strong presence in Europe and a nice presence in the uS, but we could have more in Asia.” He added that the brand expected to open in Paris, Milan, new york, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Beijing, Shanghai and Singapore.

Babeau said Christopher Kane would look to further develop its accessories and leather goods ranges, which account for about 4% of the business.

However, Babeau stressed that there are no plans for a diffusion line, despite rumours.

Christopher Kane, which is wholesaled through 200 doors worldwide, was launched in 2006 by Kane and his sister Tammy following his graduation. It extended into menswear in 2010. The label’s head office, which has 26 employees, will remain in London and Kane will continue to show in the city.

Babeau said PPR is keen to retain the label’s family feel and British appeal.

“We like it to be a British brand. We are not planning to implement a big change, but it will grow where it needs to.”

For more on Christopher Kane and PPR, make sure you visit www.drapersonline.com/news

Makeover time: JD Williams’ womenswear to get a younger look

CAPITAL ASSET ZARA’S NEW OXFORD STREET FLAGSHIP LOOKS LIKE A SMART INVESTMENT p22

News in Brief Footasylum recruits buying head

Young fashion footwear retailer Footasylum has appointed former JD Sports buying director Steve Spellacy as head of buying following the departure of co-founder and buying director Steve Makin in November.

Outerwear and men’s tailoring helped to boost sales at Burberry as the British luxury brand reported a 6% rise in retail like-for-likes. In the three months to December 31, total revenue rose 9% to £613m and retail sales soared 13% to £464m. However, wholesale revenues fell 5% to £120m.

/

Talking point /

Happy Christmas for Hobbs

Womenswear retailer Hobbs (pictured) reported a 16.4% sales increase over Christmas, with growth recorded across all labels and channels. Store sales were up 6.1% in the 10 weeks to January 5, while online sales increased 60.2% compared with last year.

What are your highlights from the autumn 13 shows you’ve visited?

Nad Ahmed, owner of premium indie Serene Order in Solihull “I’m at Premium in Berlin now. I like the rich, clean cuts and the basics; everything is a lot more formal and smarter for men.

There are no more patterns, mostly earthy greens, greys, browns and taupe. I’m trying to keep away from denim.”

Vik Tailor, owner of menswear indie Miyuki-Zoku in Leeds “I’ll be going to Jacket Required in February and Copenhagen Fashion Week for the Wood Wood and Soulland brands. We’re working on our own brand now.

I haven’t forward ordered for autumn 13, I order product when needed.”

Lee Fleming, owner of menswear indie Weavers Door in Liverpool “The only one we’re hoping to go to is Jacket Required in London, purely because it’s local – it’s picked up some good steam. We’re not looking to take much on but to increase our offer in store and online.

I’m looking to up my pre-order budget by 10%.”

Luke Conod, managing director of young fashion indie Fit in Hereford “I’m not going to any shows this year. We go direct for our big brands, such as Diesel, Superdry and G-Star. We’ll buy niche brands that I know will work, but it’s about playing it safe – you want to know there’ll be a good return.”

TK Maxx settles with Harris Tweed Off-price retailer TK Maxx has settled a trademark dispute with The Harris Tweed Authority. The dispute related to unauthorised use of Harris Tweed labelling on two jacket styles, which were only partly manufactured using Harris Tweed.

Subscribe To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8859 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs

Drapers / jAnuARy 19 2013 _ 5

UK buyout at BrandAlley

The management team behind the UK subsidiary of private Sale etailer BrandAlley has completed a management buyout, separating it from the company’s existing shareholders, News International and BrandAlley France. Bruce MacInnes, previously chairman of sports data group RunningBall, will become chairman of BrandAlley UK.

News

/ Footwear /

feStive fever wHo weRe THe cHRISTMaS TRadInG wInneRS? Read THe dRaPeRS debaTe aT www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

connecticut store: equipment gears up

/ Womenswear /

Drapers / JANUAry 19 2013 _ 6

Dutch plots growth after equity deal The chief executive of Dutch LLC, owner of contemporary brands Equipment, Current/Elliott and Joie, has set out ambitious expansion plans, including doubling EBITDA in the next three years.

Speaking exclusively to Drapers following the sale of a 60% stake in Dutch LLC to US private equity firm TA Associates for an undisclosed sum, Serge Azria said the growth would come from a combination of expanding the company’s standalone store network, growing online sales and increasing wholesale stockists.

“I’m confident we can achieve this level of growth as we’ve been growing consistently every month for the last five years,” he said. “Already in the first quarter of 2013 we are 20% to 25% ahead of this time last year.”

Azria added that the investment from TA Associates would help to make the business “even stronger”.

Dutch operates nine standalone stores across its brands and is due to open two stores, for its Equipment and Joie brands, in Connecticut in the US in the next two weeks. Azria plans to have 14 or 15 stores open by the end of this year.

He also hopes to increase online sales from about 3% to 4% of total sales to 10% by the end of this year.

‘Already in the first quarter of 2013 we are 20% to 25% ahead of this time last year’ Serge Azria, chief executive, Dutch LLC

New label Govan’s Scottish footprint A new men’s footwear brand wholly manufactured in Scotland is targeting premium department stores worldwide.

Govan, which launched for autumn 13 at trade show Pitti Uomo last week, is planning to target the likes of Harvey Nichols and Selfridges, as well as Isetan in Japan, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Barneys in the US, with its collection of handmade shoes.

The premium brand is manufactured at a factory near Glasgow and according to co-founder Kevin Sefton, it aims to “fuse classic shoemaking with a modern design twist”.

Sefton would not be drawn on the number of stockists he is targeting for its first season, saying it would be “more about getting the product into the right retailers”.

He added: “The product lends itself

well to being sold in retailers that also sell men’s suiting and smart clothing.”

Govan has created 10 different shoe styles for autumn 13, available in 40 different colourways.

Wholesale prices range from £150 for a boat shoe style up to £265 for boots.

“The best thing about this brand is that we are designing and producing something in Glasgow, in an area that was left quite deprived following the demise of the ship-building industry,” said Sefton.

He added that in future seasons the collection will be expanded to include accessories such as belts and wallets.

Modern classic: Govan in autumn 13 debut

/ Barometer /

Whistles enjoyed stellar Christmas trading, with like-forlike sales for the six weeks to January 5 surging 26%. Silk dresses, leather jackets, knitwear and footwear performed particularly well Premium womenswear retailer LK Bennett grew sales 15% in the year to July 28, with revenues of just over £94m

Menswear etailer Moss Bros expects full-year profits to exceed market expectations, following strong Christmas trading.

Like-for-likes in the 24 weeks to January 12 were up 2.7% compared with the same period last year, while cash profit rose 9.5%

THRILLS

SPILLS

Marks & Spencer’s clothing arm has again dragged the retailer’s results down, with total UK general merchandise sales falling 2.2% in the 13 weeks to December 29. Like-for-likes fell 3.8%

Value retailer Matalan saw a 1.5% dip in revenues in the five-week Christmas trading period. For the 13 weeks to November 24, sales fell 0.41%

TIMBERLAND AND ANIMAL TO SHOW AT BUBBLE

ORIGINAL PENGUIN RETURNING TO BUBBLE

BRANDS SET FOR KIDSWEAR SHOW

/ Trade shows /

rise in the figures for the United Kingdom, a very good sign for us.”

However, the number of Italian visitors to the show fell 6% to 12,800.

Napoleone added: “The final figures are undoubtedly a positive sign for men’s fashion and for Made in Italy: at this time, foreign markets and, in particular, non-EU countries are the driving force behind the fashion economy, so for us the 5% growth in foreign buyers was much more significant than the drop in Italians, which clearly reflects our country’s difficult economic situation and the far-reaching process of transformation in the fashion retail industry.”

The British Fashion Council (BFC) said it would not release figures from London Collections: Men, but it emphasised the strong international presence at the event. More than 45 countries were represented by international press, while buyers from more than 17 countries attended.

Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC, said the buzz around the show had been “phenomenal”.

By Victoria Gallagher

International buyers flocked to Pitti Uomo last week, as the menswear show reported a surge in buyers from China and Russia.

International visitor numbers rose 5% from 7,400 last year to 7,800 at the autumn 13 edition, which ran from January 8 to 11 in Florence.

Show organiser Pitti Immagine confirmed that visits from overseas buyers had continued to rise after an 8% increase last season. The number of Russian buyers jumped 39% to 312, while visitors from China increased 34% to 525.

Pitti Immagine said there was a strong turnout from Japan, Turkey, the US and South Korea, as well as northern Europe.

This season, for the first time, the Italian show overlapped with London Collections: Men, and although some UK buyers were thought to have spent less time at Pitti, many UK buying teams still made the trip to Florence.

UK buyer numbers rose 2.5% to 587, up from 573 last January.

Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive of Pitti Immagine, said: “In addition to the steady presence of the main European markets, we also witnessed a

Flying visit? Buyers were thought to have spent less time at Pitti

For further coverage on Pitti Uomo and LCM, go to www.drapersonline.com

/ Young fashion /

Newcomer Rack and Ruin eyes Firetrap market

By Ruth Faulkner

Men’s young fashion brand Rack and Ruin is aiming to fill the gap left by Firetrap by targeting 60 stockists for its first season.

The brand, which launched in the UK last week with a short-order range for spring 13 and a forward-order autumn 13 collection, is approaching former Firetrap stockists, although the brand’s founder, Terry Pearman, declined to name specific stores.

The brand will initially offer jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts, knitwear and

jackets. There are 30 pieces in the short-order collection and 50 pieces in the autumn range. Wholesale prices for spring 13 range from £9.50 for a T-shirt to £24 for a jacket.

However, Pearman told Drapers Rack and Ruin could add womenswear in the next two years if the brand takes off.

Pearman was a sales director for Firetrap about 10 years ago, before leaving to set up his own business, Neat Distribution, which he has run ever since.

When Firetrap was bought by Mike

Strike while it’s hot: Rack and Ruin hopes to appeal to former Firetrap stockists

Ashley-owned Sports Direct in March last year, Pearman said he anticipated that a lot of stockists would stop selling it, and decided to launch a new label to meet “demand from stockists for something similar”.

Rack and Ruin will be positioned with a similar price point to Firetrap, but at better margins of about 2.8%, compared with Firetrap’s 2.4%.

In October, it was revealed that Sports Direct planned to sell Firetrap in it stores priced about 75% lower than in the brand’s other stockists.

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 7

International buyer numbers up at Pitti Uomo despite LCM clash

in-depth

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 8

As The Counter prepares to join the likes of Miinto, Farfetch.com and London Boutiques when it launches in March, is there room for another indie ecommerce portal?

Taking the middle way to online sales Words by Ruth FaulkneR

T

he uK online fashion market is valued at £5.1bn, so it’s no real surprise that new etail businesses such as indie ecommerce portal The Counter are chasing a slice of an ever-growing pie. according to figures from Kantar Worldpanel, online fashion sales grew 13.3% in the past year. In 2012, 30.7 million shoppers bought clothes online, a figure that continues to grow.

When it goes live in March, The Counter will join several other platforms in the uK that aim to channel online fashion sales via indies.

The basic premise is relatively simple, although each individual service differs

‘Ecommerce portals help to bring in sales that you might not otherwise get’ Jeremy Aitken, co-owner, Stanwells

slightly in what it offers and the commission charges it applies (see box, right) to retailers that sell through the site. Such portals – the first of which to launch was Farfetch.com in 2008 – act as an online market, giving indies another channel to sell their wares and, often more importantly, market themselves online.

The Counter aims to initially sign up 10 womenswear and 10 menswear indies. Despite launching into a crowded market, founder Matthew Blanchard believes there is sufficient customer demand – and variation in the indie sector – to warrant another portal in the market.

“We see ourselves as sitting somewhere in the middle of the different providers that are out there,” he says. “Farfetch.com is quite high end, while a service like Miinto is aiming to have a lot of boutiques on board.

“We want to offer a very personal service, and in order to do that we want to remain focused and will only aim at between 80 and 100 boutiques in the uK in total. after that we’ll explore other markets such as France.”

Perhaps Blanchard is right to think there is room in the market for another

p Access points: web portals such as London Boutiques (above) and Miinto (above right) have become a valuable avenue for indies to extend their reach

provider. Figures from Miinto, which launched in the uK in april last year on the back of success in Scandinavia, suggest there are 19,000 independent fashion boutiques in the uK, of which between 4,000 and 5,000 are relevant to its market.

The portals are not solely aimed at indies without their own transactional website. richard Packman, managing director of Miinto, estimates that between 70% and 80% of the 165 retailers signed up to the portal also sell through another online channel – their own site or other portals.

Premium womenswear indie Stanwells, in Lymington, Hampshire, has had an etail site for three years but also plans to sign up with The Counter.

“From an indie point of view, ecommerce portals help to bring in sales that you might not otherwise get,” explains co-owner jeremy aitken.

Meanwhile, contemporary womenswear indie Okeefe in Esher,

20

Boutiques The Counter will launch with in March

165

Boutiques signed up to Miinto

30,000 Visitors to London Boutiques each month

250

Number of boutiques signed up to Farfetch.com

3.8m

Site visits per month on Farfetch.com

£417

Average order value on Farfetch.com

Indie ecommerce portals The cost Miinto Package A Initial subscription fee of £1,500 and 12% commission Package B Initial subscription fee of £1,000 and 15% commission Package C Initial subscription fee of £500 and 20% commission Asos Marketplace £20 a month rent and 20% commission on everything sold London Boutiques No sign-up fee; 20% commission on everything sold

Surrey, has signed up to Miinto and another portal, London Boutiques, despite having its own transactional website since autumn 2009.

Owner janine O’Keefe believes the main benefit of online portals is the time and money the platforms are willing to invest in search engine

optimisation (SEO) and pay-per-click (PPC) advertising. “as a small, one-store independent, I simply don’t have the budget or indeed the time to get involved in SEO and PPC, and so my own website acts more as a window to the store used by existing customers,” she explains. “By using these platforms, people searching the internet for specific brands have the option to buy from your store.”

These portals can also act as a testing ground for retailers that have not yet set up a transactional website, revealing valuable data about shoppers’ buying habits and location. rob Welsh, owner of Erj Boutique in Hoole, Cheshire, started selling online via Miinto in november. “Setting up your own website is as much, if not more, work and expense as opening another store, so we thought we’d use Miinto as a bit of an experiment,” he says.

Welsh has been pleased with the results so far, although with takings of

For a blog by Drapers’ Ana Santi on Farfetch.com, visit www.drapersonline.com/blogs

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 9

Story in Numbers

about £1,500 in the first six weeks, it is still only a peripheral activity.

But josé neves, founder of established portal Farfetch.com, says: “Once indies join Farfetch.com, their sales rise. On average, we represent 30% of their sales.” another benefit cited by many independents is the photography services on offer. although not all portals will photograph products – asos Marketplace and The Counter, for example, ask indies to submit their own photography for use on the sites – Miinto and London Boutiques do, and for a fee they allow boutiques to use the photography on their own sites as well. according to Lisa Mitchell, owner of Escape Boutique in Whitley Bay, Tyne and Wear: “The photography that Miinto offers makes a massive cost saving for us and we will be using its photography on our site when we launch in the spring.” although not everyone was quite so enthusiastic at first, some indies’ concerns about brand adjacencies and prices being forced down have been allayed.

“I was mainly worried about other retailers selling the same brand at a cheaper price,” says Faith Willis, co-owner of The Women’s Society Boutique in Hertford. “But actually this hasn’t been a problem as we tend to sell at recommended retail price, or very close to it, and most other boutiques do the same.”

There is still potential for indie ecommerce portals to gain further traction, as most are still relatively new in the uK market. London Boutiques now has 30,000 visitors to its site every month, while visits to Miinto have increased 450%, and transactions by 615% from july to December, 2012. at present, Farfetch.com has 250 boutiques globally selling through its site, and aims to have increased its reach to 1,000 boutiques by this summer, while Miinto hopes to have 600 boutiques selling through its site by the end of this year.

The eventual aim, says Miinto’s Packman, is for the portal to become a destination in its own right – enabling indies to compete with the likes of asos by selling product to customers who have never set foot inside their shop.

OPINION

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 10

Desperately seeking the next big thing as brands play it safe _ Caroline Nodder

O

ver the past few months we’ve been out and about canvassing the opinions of people from across the fashion sector as to what success looks like in this extremely tough market. The majority agreed that the winners will be those that can keep shoppers loyal by providing something new and exciting on each visit.

And indeed those that offer brands, styles and products that customers simply can’t get anywhere else.

Given this widely held view, it has been interesting, as we launch into the buying season, to see how this has translated into what happens at the coal face.

Have the shows focused on bringing in new brands?

And have the existing brands focused on giving their customers something new in terms of product or trend?

During Drapers’ recent travels we’ve seen definite change in both the way shows present brands and in how buyers spend their time during the buying season.

Certainly, at trade show White in Milan we spoke to a large number of mainly Italian brands that are gearing up for international expansion having kept to their home territory until now, and one of the key markets they are looking at is the UK. The product was good, very on-trend and suited to the UK market, but what we didn’t see was a huge number of British buyers visiting the show to snap up these brands, despite international buyers from markets such as Japan visiting in their droves.

Elsewhere, certainly in menswear, the feeling so far has been that autumn 13 will bring more of the same in terms of trends, with innovation mainly confined to detail and fabrication. The heritage trend, now done to death from catwalk to supermarket, seems to be hanging on by its braces and belt buckle, and this will not drive sales indefinitely.

Disappointingly, brands at Pitti Uomo seemed to play it safe, meeting in a ubiquitous middle ground somewhere around the preppy smart-casual territory, with formal brands moving to more casual ground and casual brands introducing formalwear to cover all their bases. There were sadly very few standouts.

Even the catwalks of London Collections: Men only had a few pieces that broke the mould, notably JW Anderson, whose frilly shorts arguably went a step too far out of most men’s comfort zones.

In Berlin, at least Bread & Butter is shaking things up with news that it is adding a dedicated womenswear hall next season, but this is a transitional season for the show with a smaller hall and less brands while the changes take effect. Buyers hedged their bets, with many of the other shows in town at the same time seeing good footfall.

Fashion is all about the next big thing, and so far no one seems to have nailed it. Let’s hope there’s still room in UK wardrobes for more of the same.

Drapers editor-in-chief / caroline.nodder@emap.com

MENSWEAR SHOWS COVERAGE FROM LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN AND PITTI UOMO STARTS ON p84

Contact: CrĂŠation Gross GmbH & Co. KG // HoubirgstraĂ&#x;e 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 // E-Mail: g.remmler@carlgross.com

carlgross.com

OPINION

/ Talking Business /

_ Mark Husted

S

o here we go again. Another buying and selling season starts and the never-ending cycle of travel and shows begins.

At a meeting with the owner and managing director of the brand this week, we discussed the ever-changing and evolving trials and tribulations that this industry throws up on a weekly basis.

We discussed the old days, when you used to take an order and the customer would take delivery and then pay in the allotted time.

Those times are long gone. All retailers, from high street bricksand-mortar players right through to internet giants, expect a certain level of support and close working partnerships like never before.

And why shouldn’t they? After all, as a retailer, they have plenty of choice and hundreds of options on brands, so you have to be at the top of your game in all areas, but this is particularly important when it comes to stock.

In these tough times, we are finding that having good stock programmes can often save the day, as your customers really can see the commitment from you.

So, to all you branded salesmen and sales managers out there, have a good season and, whatever you do, make sure you keep the customers happy.

Sales director for men’s footwear brand Base London

/ Talking Shop /

‘I’m reluctant to sell online.

I want people in my shop’ _ Andrew Hobbs

L

ike many independent retailers, I am coming under a lot of pressure to start an ecommerce site.

But I can’t help feeling it would be an awful lot of time and trouble for precious few extra sales. As we sell mainly well-distributed brands like Gant, Timberland, Eterna, Hackett and Tommy Hilfiger, I cannot begin to compete on price, which is one of the main reasons people shop online.

I feel much more inclined in 2013 to spend my time, effort and money on giving my shopfront a makeover, because my window is always my best advertisement.

In fact, I am reluctant to sell online.

I want people to come into my

shop to experience the brilliant personal service we offer. We have some good independent shops in our village and we all feed off each other.

My father Jeremy started the business 25 years ago and I have been running it for 10 years. Even though we are a menswear business, about 70% of our sales are made to women, who know a lot more about men’s clothes than men do about women’s. Next year, my wife Selina is starting to work in the shop.

Who ever said that menswear is a man’s world?

Owner of Jeremy Hobbs Fine Menswear in Cobham, Surrey, and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

have your say let us know what you think of our columnists’ views by posting a comment online at www.drapersonline.com

05

Tweets & Comments 01 ‘M&S clothing slump hits Q3 results’ – Without being too disrespectful to M&S, this is no surprise. Unless M&S changes direction, it could be finished within 15 years – at least in its current format Anonymous

02 [Marc] Bolland is saying the new [collection] solves all their clothing problems but this is unlikely to happen with his single minded management style Anonymous

03 #LondonCollectionsMen is a bit wordy says Tom Ford, why not call it London Men’s Fashion Week? Who’s with Tom? @carolinenodder

04 ‘Sales up but margins down at Debenhams’ – Debenhams are always discounting …

Brands can’t be happy that much of their product is being devalued as it can’t bode well for the future. Debenhams is creating a vicious circle of discounting Anonymous

05 So excited to have been featured in the @Drapers 30 under 30! Think mother may cry she’s so proud #DRNEXTGEN @Liddytucker

Online Poll This week’s poll result Have new year sales left you with a hangover?

YES

NO

62% 38% This week’s question Are you buying more short-order product for autumn 13? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JANuAry 19 2013 _ 13

‘All retailers expect a certain level of support’

Fashion INDEX

‘John Lewis earns its place at the top of the UK retail league’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 14

T

he fact that John Lewis, a business that’s nearly 150 years old, has once again posted soaring profits highlights the cyclical nature of retail. The partnership’s latest figures show that its most recent performance has outstripped its halcyon days of 2007, and its Christmas sales jumped by more than 15% against last year.

In such a competitive market, retailers such as John Lewis understand they cannot afford to stand still.

With customer expectations climbing as quickly as the number of people sharing their experiences on Twitter, losing customers to rivals is a real and constant threat.

No one knows this better than Marks & Spencer.

Only 10 years ago, M&S was the bellwether of UK retail. Analysts used to wait for the company’s sales figures with bated breath to gauge how the sector was performing, and many saw M&S as an example of how a successful retailer should operate.

So how did John Lewis manage to knock M&S off the top spot? For a start, John Lewis offers more choice, being a true department store. Customers can quite easily buy a dress, a leather armchair, a laptop and a non-stick skillet without venturing outside the shop.

As far as the in-store experience goes, M&S can’t compete. Even though M&S has modernised in recent years, its legacy of harsh lighting and sensible pants remains. Fashion at John Lewis may not be cutting edge but it is eminently wearable, be it an outfit for the office, a camping trip or a wedding.

But an even bigger triumph has ultimately helped to seal the deal for John Lewis: customer service. Maybe it’s because they own a share in the business, maybe it’s because of their training, or maybe it’s the sense of ownership that comes with taking part in decision making, but John Lewis’s ‘partners’ are as helpful as they are well-informed.

At a time when consumers are looking for comfort and security, this level of service really delivers, and also reinforces John Lewis’s core values. The retailer’s brand has become synonymous with trust and credibility, and, no matter how hard M&S tries to fight back, these less tangible benefits will keep customers coming back to John Lewis time and time again.

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures

Week 2 – January 7 to January 13, 2013

-6%

-3.1% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The first good comparable week since before the Christmas period has shown shopper numbers are down 3.1% against the same week last year. This continues a recent theme, which will not be helped by the warning from the Bank of England that gross domestic product may have contracted in the fourth quarter of 2012. We will wait to see if the year-on-year gap reduces next week, as last year, week three fell 3.5% behind week two. Retailers will continue efforts to stimulate shopper activity to help bring 2013’s footfall closer to that seen last year.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending January 13, 2013

-1.24% +0.04% Total fashion

Clothing

+6.3% Footwear

Fashion saw flat growth as the cold weather possibly deterred customers from shopping until temperatures rise. Once again the market was polarised, with footwear largely outperforming clothing. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO, at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 10.7% NEWCASTLE 46.4%

2. Production 6.2% 3. Merchandising 6% 4. Sales 4.5%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Admin & Support 4.2% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

RETAIL OUTLOOK FOR THIS WEEK

SALES & TRENDS – MULTICHANNEL

Higher prices are driven by bricks-and-mortar as online prices remain static

£2.38bn Expenditure

+14%

+14%

0%

157.5m

£15.13

Number of units

Retail average price £

2011 2012

24 weeks ending October 28, 2012 versus 2011

Average selling price

£40

+2%

SPORTS STORES

SUPERMARKETS

DISCOUNTERS

HOME SHOPPING

PURE-PLAY ETAIL

FOOTWEAR

DEPT STORES

Charlotte Wilks, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending October 28, 2012 versus 2011, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

GENERAL STORES

The amount average prices online are higher than in stores

£0 INDIES

+50%

FASHION CHAINS

The growth in prices in stores

Online average price is now flat – for the first time in two years – while store prices are growing

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● FAST RETAILING reported a 23% rise in

net profit for its first quarter. Net profit rose to ¥38.4bn (£305m). Sales rose 17% on last year to ¥318.14bn (£2.53bn). The company also announced plans to open 300 outlets outside Japan per year.

JAPAN

USA SOUTH AMERICA

ALGERIA

● INDITEX will open its first store in Algeria

in the middle of this year. The Galician group, owner of Zara, plans to open its first store in the country in a mall in the capital.

It is interested in a 54,000 sq ft space at the Bab Ezzouar mall in Algiers.

● GAP has appointed Tom Sands as its new DUBAI

executive vice president of Gap North America. He replaces Mark Breitbard, who has been named chief executive of US kidswear retailer Gymboree.

● H&M has announced it will launch its Cos

chain in Dubai this spring with franchise operator MH Alshaya. H&M will also debut in Serbia in the autumn and new market entries will take place in Chile, Estonia, Lithuania and, via franchise, Indonesia.

Latin America is one of our fastest-growing regions and we feel honoured Bentrani is joining Fossil to guide that growth Kosta Kartsotis, chief executive, Fossil

● FOSSIL has bought its South American

distribution network from Bentrani Watches for an undisclosed sum. Bentrani distributes for Fossil in Argentina, Chile, Colombia, Venezuela, Panama and Uruguay.

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 15

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Premium

MENSWEAR

WOMENSWEAR

Top 10

Top 10

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week 1

Armani Jeans

1

2

Nicole Farhi

2

Boss Black

3

Paul Smith

3

Armani Jeans

4

Ted Baker

5

Repeat

6

Weekend MaxMara

7

Boss Orange

8

American Vintage

9 10

4

Paul Smith

5

Stone Island

6

Gant

7

Tommy Hilfiger

8

Vivienne Westwood

Ugg Australia

9

Scotch & Soda

Joseph

10

Moncler

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Dresses

2

Knitwear

3

Jeans

4

Outerwear

5

Tops

Top 5

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK +2% year-on-year change

£237 AVERAGE SPEND

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -1% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Shirts

2

Knitwear

3

Jeans

4

Outerwear

5

Polo shirts

£157

Top 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through 1

£27,743

Nicole Farhi

Week ending January 12, 2013

1

Boss Black Armani Jeans

2

Paul Smith

2

3

Weekend MaxMara

3

4

Armani Jeans

4

Stone Island

5

Moschino Cheap & Chic

5

Eton

Top 5

Brands with the best mark-up

-4%

Gant

-11%

Top 5

Brands with the best mark-up

1

Paul Smith

1

Vivienne Westwood

2

Armani Jeans

2

Holland Esquire

3

Nicole Farhi

3

Boss Black

4

Weekend MaxMara

4

Paul Smith

5

Vivienne Westwood

5

Armani Jeans

FOOtFAll Change for week ending January 12, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

INDIE WATCH

FOOtFAll Change for week ending January 12, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2011 v 2012) for the UK independent retail sector

-8.42% +4.85%

Week ending January 12, 2013

+2.36%

66 %

of premium indies will visit spring 13 trade shows to do their buying

AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS

PROFIt MARGIN

AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD

Data for December 3 to December 30, 2012, compared with the same period in 2011. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 16

£12,240

Polo Ralph Lauren

CLOSE-UP I ian maclean

Drapers / January 19 2013 _ 18

Closely knit Ian Maclean, managing director of John Smedley, on why keeping it in the family is so important to the knitwear brand Words by IAN WRIGHT

I

t’s towards the end of my tour around the John Smedley factory at lea mills near matlock, Derbyshire, with the brand’s managing director ian maclean, that i meet Sue, a woman who has worked at the 228-year-old company for 25 years. She’s a linker in a small team of women employed at the factory to piece together the knitted samples, experiments and prototypes for the in-house design team. i ask her if she enjoys working at John Smedley and her reply, quick as a flash, is in the affirmative. When i suggest she had to say that, without missing a beat she turns from the linking machine, looks me right in the eye and says: “i love working here.” later, in the boardroom, maclean gestures to a large painting of a serious and dapper gentleman, who is John Smedley the First, the man who laid the foundations for the business. “as you’ve seen from the tour, we’re a tight-knit community” says maclean, seemingly oblivious to the pun. The loyalty of that extended family has been central to John Smedley’s fortunes.

“There’s no doubt in the last three or four years when things have been very difficult there must be people who have thought, ‘Should i be working for a more stable business?’” maclean says. “But we have people who are very passionate about what they do.” if the mood around the historic mill is anything to go by, then whatever maclean and his team are doing, it’s working, something that will only be enhanced by the royal warrant awarded to the business at the start of the year.

Maclean says the award was “a great boost to morale”, and that recognition from the Queen’s household filled the company with pride. “it’s a great reward for the efforts we put into making things we really like and making them really good quality,” he continues, and his stockists agree. Steve cochrane, chief executive of middlesbrough indie department store Psyche, says: “it is a beautifully made, well-designed product. i’m a big fan and it fits well on our tailoring floor, and appeals to a more sophisticated, more discerning customer.”

Switching to discuss his own family, maclean, who is the seventh generation, sits bolt upright when i enquire how he came to spearhead the company – perhaps something to do with both his sense of duty and respect for his forefathers (both Smedleys and macleans), whose paintings line the walls and peer down at us. maclean explains that the brand had been run by manufacturing experts for 20 or 30 years until 2008, when it decided to bring someone in with marketing expertise to strengthen the brand positioning. That man was wool business veteran andrew caughey, but things didn’t work out when the recession hit. “in good times he probably would have been the right guy but he spent too much money, so we had to say goodbye to him [in September 2010],” says maclean. “i was the chairman at the time and felt the family ought to have a stronger presence in the business.” after 10 years answering to nearly 90 shareholding Smedley family members as chairman, it was now maclean’s responsibility u to steady the ship as the mD. “The family is

CLOSE-UP I IAN MACLEAN

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 20

‘The family has been behind us the whole way.

We canvas their opinion all the time’ very important. We are the ones who want it to continue. We are invested in this business and will do things professional managers won’t to make sure that happens. I’ve tried to bring that philosophy to the company.”

The company made a £1.9m pre-tax loss in 2010, so Maclean had to act swiftly.

“We’ve taken some fantastically good decisions over the past couple of years to bring out all the stars in the company and get them to help us rebuild the business. It’s taken us two years, it’s been a hard journey but we’ve been highly motivated and we’ve done it. Our cash is going up, our profits are going up, we’re stronger, we avoided borrowing from the bank and it’s all down to these people out here,” he adds, gesturing out to the factory.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

The wool pack: the collection includes polo shirts, cardigans and tops

FIGURES FOR THE 15 MONTHS ending March

2012 show a £156,000 profit which, while not a number to make mohair stand on end, is a step in the right direction.

“The family has been behind us the whole way. We canvas their opinion all the time and if they had said at any time ‘We want to sell the business’, we’d have sold the business. But they didn’t,” he says with palpable confidence.

Perhaps that’s a trait that runs in the family, evident most importantly in John Smedley the First’s crucial decision to create a brand in addition to the manufacturing operation.

Maclean counts that move as one of the main reasons Smedley has endured where so many factories have failed since the Industrial Revolution. Despite being renowned for its quality Made in Britain product, Maclean is more pragmatic when discussing the occasionally rose-tinted subject.

“The reason why we are still in Britain is as much as a result of historical accident and inertia as it is a desire to do it here. There have been plenty of discussions in the past at board meetings along the lines of ‘How can we possibly survive the onslaught of low-priced competition? We should sell up and open a factory in China and make it a lot cheaper’, but that action has never been taken,” he explains.

Cochrane is thankful the brand has stuck to its guns. “‘UK made’ really appeals to our foreign customers and is a key selling point online,” he says.

Demand for Made in Britain is still evidently on the rise. Maclean continues: “The indications are it’s a good thing to buy from the UK even though it’s a bit more expensive. And those that have been buying from Asia are finding it’s not as easy as it used to be and it’s also getting more expensive.”

If what Maclean claims is true and the global playing field is levelling out, then John Smedley is in a prime position to grow internationally.

“With a very long history comes recognition in many parts of the world. We can strengthen our appearance in certain places by talking to a local population in their language and provide local customer service to give them a greater confidence to buy. We’ve already started with ecommerce; the next step is to back that up with the kind of flagship store in Brook Street [the brand’s London flagship] in a different economy and above it a wholesaling space to sell from.”

With retail representing 15% of the £18.9m turnover, private-label manufacturing a further 10% and wholesale the remaining three quarters, growing accounts will be key to building momentum. Which is part of the reason Maclean unveiled the brand’s autumn 13 Signature collection, including a fetching range of long johns, at London Collections: Men. “We’ve been at Pitti Uomo for many years but our home market is still our most important one.

The fact that LCM has arrived gives us direct access to British buyers and media to talk about a British brand, which is a new step for us and I hope it’s a launch pad for John Smedley.”

Sounds rather menswear-focused, right? It is surprising to learn womenswear makes up 40% of the business, an opportunity Maclean is not blind to when it comes to the brand’s future.

“If LCM is a success for us, then I can see us exploring London Fashion Week as our next step to raise the profile of our womenswear.” Here’s hoping the plan works so Sue and the rest of the extended family can continue to make top-quality knits for years to come.

K

FOR ALL SALES ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT MICHAEL PARKER Tel: 0207 481 11 11 Fax: 0207 481 22 22 Email: michaelp@guideclothing.co.uk Web: www.guideclothing.co.uk

SHOPWATCH

Zara _ Park House, Oxford Street

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 22

JoHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

F

or many, the run-up to Christmas passes in something of a blur. and somewhere during those heady, Bacchanalian weeks, a new Zara store opened at the west end of Oxford Street. nothing particularly remarkable about this perhaps – there are times when it seems there’s a Zara store every couple of hundred metres along London’s leading mid-market shopping thoroughfare. yet this one is the latest in a tranche of ‘global flagships’ that have been beamed down into major cities around the world. and its opening on December 5 at Marble arch was almost as high-profile as the new york store that opened on Fifth avenue last spring, with indie rock duo The Kills performing at the pre-opening night party. But is this store any different to its counterpart across the atlantic or is it a case of cookie-cutter flagship time?

02

ConCEpT 

Zara generally is about slick modernism and this store expands on that theme. This is a metropolitan retail interior that manages to persuade the shopper they are in a design-led environment. The use of high and low lighting, as well as side-lit mid-floor baffles, make this far better than many of the more obviously branded, expensive retail landscapes on nearby Bond Street. as in new york, this new interior will make upscale operators look to their laurels.

01

VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG 

Getting a big offer into a relatively modest three-floor space and still making it look as if there are acres of space is a trick that few manage to pull off. To an extent, this is achieved here, through the strategic use of light boxes that

draw the eye along the various aisles and create the impression of avenues running through the space.

Then, similar to the new york store, there are merchandise rooms, created by having walls on three sides with the fourth facing a walkway.

These are where moods are created using minimalist display and ensuring the stock is the star.

There are mannequins throughout, but these are secondary to the deft combination of side-hung, forwardhung and tabled merchandise.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 460-490 Oxford Street, London W1 SizE 1,500 sq ft NumbER of flooRS Three opENiNg DAy December 5, 2012

03

05

Enter any Zara store and, from a staffing perspective, it looks like a fat-free zone. This is not to say that a shape or form policy is in place, but the staff all seem almost unnaturally slim.

There are lots of them and, in fairness, this has to be the case – anything less would mean compromising display standards. In a store where there is frequently no more than one size per style on the floor, the replenishment effort has to be a matter of course, and this seems to be the case here. Plus you are never short of help.

There are few retail arenas more red of tooth and claw than Oxford Street and it’s also hard not to imagine that this new store may have its customer base mildly cannibalised by other Zara stores in the area. That said, the real competition comes from the likes of next, Marks & Spencer and maybe

Room for improvement 01

Bring in some larger sizes.

It’s been a perennial complaint about Zara since it first arrived in the UK, but little seems to have been done about it.

02

Is this a Zara store too far?

Possibly – it does seem that there may now be one too many outlets along the Oxford Street strip.

03

Rake-thin members of staff may look good, but they do carry with them the potential to be a little intimidating at the same time.

CompETITIon  Primark. They may all be different, but they will all compete to deplete the possible spend in Zara. On the basis of a couple of visits following the opening, it seems reasonable to say that this branch of Zara is more than capable of taking its competitors head on.

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 23

SERVICE 

04

pRoDUCT 

Slim. Slim. Slim. To wear much of the merchandise you really do have to be pretty trim and while the prices are forgiving, the waistlines are not.

Providing you do conform to Zara’s ideas about a size 12, or a male 40in chest, then you get to choose

from the muchvaunted constant change of styles and all the latest trends.

It’s now Sale time, but new season stock is already available in depth, and is all very affordable. This store also stocks a number of lines not carried by the other Oxford Street branches.

06

VERDICT THE PROSPECTS ARE GOOD

as was the case in new york, in spite of the fact that there are multiple iterations of the Zara offer in the area, this new flagship raises the bar for fans of the retail behemoth. There is almost nothing to dislike about this store, except perhaps the sizing of the clothes, even when an extended range is on offer. We should all go on a post-Christmas diet before heading to the store. Either that, or the new Evans flagship is just along the way. This fairly major quibble notwithstanding, Oxford Street is a better place for 39 50 the arrival of this store.

To see more pictures of the new Zara store, visit www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

DIRECTIONS

Topman Design contributed to a bumper crop of orange in London

This week’s hero

ORANGE

It’s not possible to discuss the autumn 13 edition of London Collections: Men without mentioning the standout colour of the season so far – orange, and lots of it. Spotted at the likes of Jonathan Saunders, Hackett, JW Anderson, E Tautz and Topman Design (pictured), shades ranged from bright highlighter pen to zesty tangerine and burnt sunset. It might not tickle all buyers’ taste buds but it dominated London and the a-peel-ing tones should stop traffic on the high street.

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 25

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

THE BUZZ he venue where a designer chooses to hold their catwalk presentation or a trade show bases its exhibition says a lot about their operation, market position and relationship with the attendees and visitors, whether that be buyers, punters or even lowly journalists. With Pitti Uomo and London Collections coming to a close last week, followed

by Milan Fashion Week and Bread & Butter this week, it’s interesting to note how different the approaches can be and how this affects how the shows are perceived.

Take Bread & Butter. The huge Tempelhof Airport in Berlin is, so I’m led to believe, the largest continuously roofed building in the world. It’s a monumental and brutalist space in which to house one of our industry’s biggest trade shows. I’m quite fond of it (I’m a little odd like that), but I can see how the building can be overwhelming on first visit – perhaps not the best way to welcome new attendees. In practical terms though the space is interesting yet does work, something The Hospital Club in our capital, home to London Collections: Men, can’t really claim.

Yes, the multi-floored venue is relatively suited to hosting the exhibition element of the three-day event, but the catwalk space squirrelled away in the basement is a different kettle of fish. Sardines in fact, if the close quarters of the seating is anything to go by, as showgoers squash in cheek by jowl either side of what is possibly the shortest catwalk known to those who frequent fashion weeks across the globe. For an event aiming to raise the profile of British menswear, it’s hardly the most impressive of bases.

With Pitti Uomo barricaded in the Fortezza, fashion week venues going more off piste, and other trade shows at least occupying fit-for-purpose spaces, LCM is up against some stiff competition. Let’s hope they can cure The Hospital Club’s ailments next season.

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget!

Look out for...

Wholesale prices: £150 to £250 www.nicholaskirkwood.com

Lavenham moves out of its quilt

/ Trendwatch /

Heritage outerwear brand Lavenham has indicated a shift away from its more traditional styles for autumn 13.

The rise in popularity across the market of styles such as quilted jackets has led it to look to broaden its horizons. Key looks will now include varsity jackets in British wool, semi-structured blazers and an orange mac style, for a more urban feel.

Wholesale prices: £55 to £155 Contact: 07508 502671 Matthew Miller

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 26

T

_ Ian Wright

Renowned British footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood revealed his first men’s collection at London Collections: Men this week. Recently named Accessories Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, fans of Kirkwood will be pleased to see signature quirks, such as geometric prints. The collection will be sold at Nicholas Kirkwood boutiques, with other stockists yet to be confirmed.

Christopher Shannon

What’s a nice show like you doing in a place like this?

ON THE RADAR — Nicholas Kirkwood men’s range

Katie Eary

/ Fashion foreword /

MEN DOING WOMEN’S WORK

Something we didn’t expect to see at London Collections: Men was an army of girls. With the likes of Christopher Shannon and Matthew Miller debuting womenswear, this is one trend to watch.

HIT THE STREETS Look out for our Streetwear and Denim Special issue, out next week

THE SHOWS MUST GO ON Read reports from the Berlin shows, Milan Men’s Fashion Week and White next week

THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS

This week’s panel

JO DAVIES Founder of premium womenswear indie Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire

Janine O’Keefe I carry around five shoe collections for autumn.

These are mostly pre-ordered.

However, accessories are only forward ordered from the larger brands, like Paul Smith and Maison Scotch (pictured), accounting for about 40% of total spend, which leaves me around 60% to buy jewellery and lifestyle pieces on short order.

Pamela Shiffer I’m undecided as to the percentage of my forwardbuying budget. It’ll depend on the quality of the collections we currently stock. However, I always have budget if I need to buy fill-in stock or if a trend emerges I haven’t covered. An example of that this season was all things fur (Zento, pictured).

JANINE O’KEEFE Owner of contemporary womenswear indie Okeefe in Esher, Surrey

DAVID CONAGHAN Co-owner of young fashion Indie Chocolate Clothing in Derry, Northern Ireland

PAMELA SHIFFER Owner of womenswear indie Pamela Shiffer in north London

Jo Davies As autumn 12 was our strongest season to date at Black White Denim (pictured), we’ll use that data to meticulously plan autumn 13’s buy.

Across all categories we’ll keep the budget tight and focus on irresistible pieces that have simplicity, style and longevity. Up to 30% of our budget will be reserved for in-season top-ups.

David Conaghan This year almost half of our buying budget will be allocated for short order. Especially for our women’s accessories, which is very trend driven, and where you need to react to trends quick in season and give customers fresh product each week. This is in contrast to our men’s accessories, where it is more brand driven and is mostly forward order.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 27

How will you split your autumn accessories budget?

DIRECTIONS I BRANDWATCH

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 28

Picture caption style. The blue line should always align to the cap height and bottom of text

Picture caption style. The blue line should always align to the cap height and bottom of text

Samsøe & Samsøe This contemporary label offers a Danish treat with a Japanese twist, writes ANA SANTI

AT A GLANCE WHOLESALE PRICES £14 to £360 WEBSITE www.samsoe.co.uk TELEPHONE Tristan Lucazeau 07903 583879 and

W

Rachel McLuckie 07905 897437

hen you hear “a fusion of Scandinavia and Japan” in reference to a fashion brand, you know there’s reason to get excited. And that’s how Samsøe & Samsøe’s brand manager Tristan Lucazeau describes the autumn 13 collections at the brand’s stand at Pitti Uomo in Florence. “We don’t want to be just another Scandinavian brand,” he continues,

referring to the recent influx of such labels onto the global fashion market.

And it’s not. Samsøe & Samsøe’s designers travelled to Tokyo for inspiration for both the men’s and women’s collections, which share some of the same prints and fabrics. This Japanese influence adds a sporty and quirky twist to the clean, design-led Danish handwriting.

More attractive still are the price points and the collection’s commerciality. The 150-piece men’s and 160-piece women’s collections each have a 2.7 mark-up. Wholesale prices for menswear range from £15 for T-shirts to £158 for outerwear. Womenswear ranges from £18 for knits to £360 for a sheepskin coat.

This accessibility isn’t at the expense of quality. Lots of alpaca, angora and soft yarn mixes make for a cosy, light-as-a-feather feel on knits, while wool and cotton blends provide a heavier alternative. Coated, waxed and washed jackets with detachable linings tick the performance-cum-sporty box, while a selection of prints – including giraffe and mountains – add plenty of visual interest.

Showroom 12, Samsøe & Samsøe’s newly appointed UK distributor, plans to secure 30 to 35 stockists for each collection. With the exception of Asos, which already stocks the menswear, autumn 13 marks Samsøe & Samsøe’s first foray into the UK market.

THE EDIT Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 29

Menswear autumn 13

Introduction by Ian Wright

Menswear is a funny old thing – it seems it just can’t make up its mind at the moment. Just as the mainstream appears to be suffering from the seven-season itch with its long-running affair with heritage, along comes the fashion weeks’ new guard with yet more outdoor-inspired pieces. The difference? For autumn 13 the proportion has been played with, giving rise to a multitude of puffed-up, cropped and fluid options, particularly in knits and coats, and the introduction of brighter, more urban colours (orange is going to be huge), both developments we explore in our second shoot on p48. Meanwhile, in stark contrast, there’s a definite sense designers are enjoying the simple life, producing tailored pieces with real clarity, precision and, in many cases, a sense of luxury. Razor-sharp finishing, contrasting textural interplay and unexpected colours stop this being a u mundanely monochrome trend, as we hope you’ll find over the page. Menswear may be funny, but it ain’t half good.

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 30

SHARP OBJECTS Stripped-back simplicity and luxurious fabrics underpin some of the season’s most modern collections Photography by david ralpH Fashion director ian WrigHt Junior fashion editor graeme moran Junior fashion writer emily norval

Coat Qasimi Homme, £304; blazer Berwin & Berwin, £120; jumper John Smedley, £52.50; trousers Peter Werth, £27; belt Hackett, £POA

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 32

This page Blazer Barbour, £99.60; jumper £24, shirt £24, both Farah Vintage; jeans Natural Selection, £60; shoes (seen on p29) Common People, £44 Opposite page Jacket US Polo Assn, £279; shirt Qasimi Homme, £117

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 58 This page Coat Won Hundred, £136; shirt Tommy Hilfiger, £POA; trousers Peter Werth, £27; shoes Common People, £POA Opposite page Suit Lagerfeld, £212; shirt Peter Werth, £20; tie Emmett, £POA

Drapers / MONHT 00 2012 _ 35

This page: Shirt Vanishing Elephant, £32; jacket J Brand, £77 Opposite page: Vest Farrell, £11.95; shorts Orlebar Brown, £38; shoes Rivieras, £38.50; jacket A Child of the Jago, £POA

This page Coat Euphorik London, £370; T-shirt Rockford, £POA; trousers Farah Vintage, £28; shoes Clarks, £55 Opposite page Jacket, £133, shirt, £18, both Closed

This page: Blazer Vanishing Elephant, £95; pocket square Pal Zileri, £POA; shirt Franklin & Marshall, £28; bag Filson, £46 Opposite page: Blazer Barbour, £117.50; T-shirt Farrell, £28.35; shorts Carhartt, £25.95

This page Coat Orschel-Read, £380; jumper Alan Paine, £POA; jeans Timberland, £POA; shoes Hudson, £55.56 Opposite page Suit Qasimi Homme, £367; jumper Hawick Knitwear, £39

Drapers / MONHT 00 2012 _ 39

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 64

This page Coat £960, scarf £39.60, both Lutwyche; shirt Farah Vintage, £24 Opposite page Coat Lagerfeld, £150

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 41 Shirt £36.50, shorts £23.99, both Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage; shoes Dr Martens, £58.35 Fashion interns, Jasmine Boadi and Tanyel Kabay; grooming, Daniela Maginetti at MKS; model, Seb at Joy

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 64 This page Blazer Sand, £160; T-shirt Won Hundred, £28; trousers Barbour, £47.60 Opposite page Coat ToBeFrank, £280; jumper Orschel-Read, £200 Hair and make-up Nancy Sumner using Aveda and Bobbi Brown Model Curt at Nevs Fashion assistants Caroline Barnes & Jodie McTaggart

www.sandcopenhagen.com 路 Distribution by Four Marketing 路 +44 (0)20 7608 9100

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 54

SO MUCH FOR THE CITY

They’ve been around for several seasons yet heritage and outdoorsy influences are still popular, updated with urban colours Photography by lydia garnett Fashion director ian Wright Junior fashion editor graeme moran Junior fashion writer emily norval

Coat Elvine, £46; jumper Diesel, £50.98; shirt Eden Park, £46; bag Oliver Sweeney, £93.98

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 56 This page Coat Eden Park, £146; jumper Hackett, £POA; shirt Luke, £28; tie Tommy Hilfiger, £POA Opposite page Coat Gloverall, £POA; jeans Natural Selection, £60; scarf Aigle, £12

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 50 Coat Lavenham, £155.90; jumper Farah Vintage, £34; shirt Won Hundred, £40; jeans Wrangler, £30

Drapers / MOnHT 00 2012 _ 51

Drapers / MOnTH 00 2012 _ 52

This page Coat Joules, £54.20; jumper Alan Paine, £55; shirt Farah Vintage, £24; jeans Wrangler, £30 Opposite page Coat Lavenham, £101.65; jumper Humör, £24; jeans Eleven Paris, £45; shoes Chatham Marine, £41.25

This page Coat French Connection, £58; jumper Joules, £37.50 Opposite page Jacket Farah Vintage, £48; cardigan Peter Werth, £21.50; T-shirt Rockford, £POA; chinos RM Williams, £53

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 64

This page Coat Lavenham, £120.55; jumper Henri Lloyd, £37.21 Opposite page Blazer Hackett, £POA; shirt Lee Jeans, £37.21; trousers ToBeFrank, £105

Hair and make-up Nancy Sumner using L’Oreal Model Haris at Models 1 Fashion assistants Caroline Barnes & Jodie McTaggart

Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 57 Shirt £36.50, shorts £23.99, both Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage; shoes Dr Martens, £58.35 Fashion interns, Jasmine Boadi and Tanyel Kabay; grooming, Daniela Maginetti at MKS; model, Seb at Joy

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

OUTERWEAR From classic overcoats and traditional duffles to minimal macs and technical parkas, this season there‘s a winter coat for every man

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 58

Classic sartorial overcoats with contrast top collars and all-over tartans are a bold choice

Eden Park £146

Gibson London £75 Skopes £76

Pal Zileri £POA

Oliver Sweeney £148.49

Peter Werth £89.50

Duke £25

Hackett £POA

Lagerfeld £150

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 59

Seafarer jackets in weatherproof technical fabrics are a trend to watch – a practical yet directional move on for outerwear

Lee Jeans £70

Aigle £160

Elvine £46

Original Penguin £65

Barbour £99.60

Won Hundred £136

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

A men’s outerwear staple, classic double-breasted pea coats drop anchor for autumn’s naval trend

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 60

Eden Park £64

Farah Vintage £44

Peter Werth £71.50

Henri Lloyd £97.92

The wax jacket gets a new cropped shape, updating the countrymeets-heritage look DS Dundee £74

Diesel £125.49

WARDROBE AW2013

www.nicholasdeakins.com 00(44)113 244 6875

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Henri Lloyd £58.75

Alan Paine £83

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 62

A growing trend for furry finishes sees shearling linings and contrast-fabric collars update simple styles

Lavenham £120.55

Barbour £92.25

Lee Jeans £54

Joules £25

KNITWEAR

Whether bright or calm, patterned knits aren’t going away just yet. Wintry Fair Isle styles get top marks

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 63

Cosy jumpers and cardigans keep getting bolder, with patterned styles still a hit alongside some traditional knitwear shapes

Hawick Knitwear £39

Barbour £79.95

Lyle & Scott £POA

Vacant Clothing £22

Hawick £45

Eden Park £66

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

The smart shawl-collar shape crops up everywhere on knitwear, particularly on button-through cardigans and jumpers

Henri Lloyd £68.55

John Smedley £99.60

French Connection £27

Tommy HIlfiger £POA

Alan Paine £30

Original Penguin £35

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 64

John Smedley £92.40

Aigle £42 While cable knits are still around, a mixture of knit techniques, shapes and sizes brings textured interest to simple jumpers

Johnstons of Elgin £88

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DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

It’s all about the neck for autumn 13, with funnel shapes and chunky roll-neck styles pushing a new direction

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 66

Alan Paine £55

Peter Werth £30

Orschel-Read £200

Johnstons of Elgin £166

Henri Lloyd £37

Lagerfeld £50

TOPS

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 67

Not just base layers, T-shirts and jumpers fight for attention

Winter clothes don’t have to be as dull as the weather, with T-shirts bringing a much-needed pop of colour and print

Won Hundred ÂŁ20

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Embroidered detailing is a neat update seen across several categories, adding interest to basics such as crew-neck sweatshirts

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 68

DS Dundee £31.50

French Connection £29

Pepe Jeans London £35

Peter Werth £21.50

Knitted rather than piqué polos bring an autumnal slant to a summer classic

John Smedley £35.90

Luke £27

THE EDIT I DIRECTIONS

SHIRTS

Whether formal or casual, the variety of shirting styles offers something for everyone

Hackett £POA

Lee Jeans £28

Lee Jeans £28

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

Natural Selection Denim £51

Wrangler £28

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 69

Printed and embroidered options give a new point of difference to denim and chambray

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Another example of embroidery updating a simple printed shirt – we’ve also noticed a move towards more button-down collars

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 70

Brutus £POA

Farah Vintage £24

Eden Park £49

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

Lee Jeans £36

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DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 72

Mossy greens feature in several collections, bringing an autumnal colour focus to the season’s ranges

La Paz £34

Closed £30

Pepe Jeans London £24

Closed £18

TROUSERS

Chinos, jeans and even corduroys keep trousers compelling, while straight-leg cuts signal a move away from the skinny shape of recent times

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 73

Subtle detailing such as embroidery livens up classic chinos

Elvine £28

Henri Lloyd £31.34

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

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THE EDIT I DIRECTIONS

Farah Vintage £26

Gabicci £32

Gibson London £21

Peter Werth £27

Sand £49

Won Hundred £40

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 75

The heritage trend remains strong, with wool trousers in loose silhouettes blending the smart with the casual

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 76

Denim takes sides this season, with the top trends split between dark and clean options or washed and worn-out styles

Natural Selection Denim £60

Timberland £44

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

Wrangler £POA

Pepe Jeans London £42

Eden Park £POA

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 77 We’ve seen it for a few seasons now, but corduroy comes through strongly for autumn 13, taken out of grandad territory with fresh colours and fits

Joules ÂŁ29.15

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

TAILORING

While tailoring sticks to a true-blue trend, the double-breasted style tails off slightly, but still provides a smart alternative to more casual single-breasted jackets

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 78

Whether for the office, a special event or casually for every day, sharp suits and blazers can be bought into for every occasion

Sand £206

Without Prejudice £175

Lutwyche £900

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 79 Original Penguin jacket £50, trousers £25

Bottoli £POA

Chester Barrie £POA

Skopes £50

Orschel-Read jacket £300, waistcoat £75, trousers £140

Tommy Hilfiger £POA

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 80

Menswear continues to smarten up its act as the three-piece suit makes a welcome return, but in lighter fabrics for a more casual approach

Pal Zileri £POA

Skopes jacket £39.50, trousers £16.50

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 81

The heritage trend sticks around for tailoring too, with tweed sb blazers in wintry colours and country gent fabrics

Sand £149

Luke £50

Paul Costelloe £120

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 82

Brand list A Aigle 01608 813860 www.aigle.com Alan Paine 01623 522570 www.alanpaine.co.uk B Barbour 0191 455 4444 www.barbour.com Berwin & Berwin 0113 244 2244 www.berwinandberwin.co.uk Bottoli 00 39 04 38 55 43 43 www.lanificiobottoli.com Brutus 020 7224 4882 www.brutus-trimfit.com C Chatham Marine 01392 822981 www.chatham-marine.co.uk Chester Barrie 020 7734 4577 www.chesterbarrie.co.uk Clarks 0844 477 7744 www.clarks.co.uk Closed 00 44 40 4418 400 www.closed.com Common People 020 749 8625 www.commonpeopleclothing.co.uk D DS Dundee 020 7241 2448 www.dsdundee.com Diesel 020 7833 2255 www.diesel.com Duke 0115 977 0009 www.dukeclothing.com E Eden Park 01732 852281 www.uk.eden-park.com Eleven Paris 0113 204 2413 www.elevenparis.com Elvine 020 7725 5700 www.elvine.se

Emmett 020 7351 7529 www.emmettlondon.com Euphorik London 020 7289 4478 www.euphoriklondon.com F Farah Vintage 01376 502345 www.farah.co.uk French Connection 020 7036 7200 www.frenchconnection.com G Gabicci 01442 233700 www.gabicci.com Gibson London 020 7268 0020 Gloverall 01604 812812 www.gloverall.com H Hackett 020 7408 4000 www.hackett.com Hawick Knitwear www.hawickknitwear.com Henri Lloyd 0161 799 1212 www.henrilloyd.com Hudson 020 7729 2113 www.hudsonshoes.com Humรถr 020 358 0030 www.humorclothing.com J John Smedley 01629 534571 www.johnsmedley.com Johnstons of Elgin 01450 360500 www.johnstonscashmere.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com L La Paz 00 351 222 625 037 www.lapaz.pt Lagerfeld 020 7012 1420 www.karl.com Lavenham 01787 379535 www.lavenham.co.uk

Lee Jeans 0845 600 8383 www.eu.lee.com Luke 01869 366580 www.luke1977.com Lutwyche 020 7292 0640 www.lutwyche.co.uk Lyle & Scott 020 7467 7550 www.lyleandscott.com N Natural Selection 020 7749 8625 www.nsdenim.com O Oliver Sweeney 07980 624036 www.oliversweeney.com Original Penguin 020 7580 9167 www.originalpenguin.com Orschel-Read 07786 266865 www.orschel-read.com P Pal Zileri 020 7307 0886 www.palzileri.com Paul Costelloe 020 7224 1927 www.paulcostelloe.com Pepe Jeans London 020 7313 3800 www.pepejeans.com Peter Werth 01727 883555 www.peterwerth.co.uk Q Qasimi Homme 020 7249 4841 www.quasimi.com

R RM Williams 01767 601145 www.rmwilliams.com Rockford 00 44 815 399 2502 www.rockfordmenswear.com S Sand 020 7608 9100 www.sand-europe.com Skopes 0113 240 2211 www.chapter-verse.com T Timberland 01753 497000 www.timberland.com ToBeFrank 020 7266 8400 www.tbfrank.com Tommy Hilfiger 020 3144 0900 www.uk.tommy.com U US Polo Assn 00 39 057 27 771 www.uspoloassn.com V Vacant Clothing 01273 670455 www.vacantclothing.co.uk W Without Prejudice 020 7624 0164 www.without-prejudice.com Won Hundred 00 45 361 609 04 www.wonhundred.com Wrangler 0115 965 6565 www.wrangler.com

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DIRECTIONS

I

menswear autumn 13

London Collections: Men Bold colours, better planned collections and more polished finishing signalled a step forward for the UK’s premier menswear event

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 84

Words by Ian WrIght & graeme moran

City Fashion Week

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 85 Walk the walk: Topman Design went for an explorer theme

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DIRECTIONS I menswear autumn 13

Topman Design

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 86

As one of the first shows out of the blocks, Topman Design had a clarity, commerciality and balanced feel that not all of Gordon Richardson’s previous collections have shared. The graduating palette of tone-on-tone looks certainly helped – the styling letting garments, such as the great cropped pea coats in cerise and orange, chunky parkas and textured knits, really shine. Trousers took on a roomier silhouette than the traditional Topman customer is used to, but the explorer vibe they helped convey was satisfying, if a little well-worn. in short A stronger collection than recent seasons, but is it too much to hope the collection makes its way to the shop floor relatively untouched?

agi & sam The standout show from the three MAN-sponsored labels, Agi & Sam has the innate ability to make you want the clothes and smile at a show that is all too often absent from presentations. Where last season it was Magnum PI, for autumn it was more like shotguns, as the duo explored the rather tired heritage, country gent look in a way that somehow made it covetable again. Inspired by the eccentric Lord Bath, the pair’s signature prints came through as checks and wallpaper repeats while an earthy palette was pepped up by the occasional bolt of electric blue or vivid yellow. in short A very strong autumn collection, the underlying commerciality of which should see it sell well.

RichaRD nicoll After the bright white and Yves Klein blue of his debut menswear collection for summer, Richard Nicoll’s autumn offering was slightly muddier. Chambray tones featured alongside grey and black, save for final flashes of the season’s big colour, orange. The silhouette also changed as hems and shoulders dropped and outerwear became more dramatic, especially when made in bright colours or foil-effect finishes. In contrast, the neater tailoring with an interesting dual-tone block effect was more successful, while Nicoll continued with soft leather from spring with biker jackets and trousers. in short Plenty of sellable pieces, but the collection lacked the excitement of Nicoll’s first menswear outing.

alexanDeR mcQueen

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 87

There was a real sense of Britishness at Alexander McQueen as Sarah Burton brought its menswear to London for the first time. Borrowing from Savile Row, Burton embarked on a series of pinstriped pieces that slowly became more disconnected. Next came full looks printed with beautiful stained glass window patterns and patchwork tailoring that had a lounge vibe, only smarter.

Colour came through in highlights in the glass shapes and an orangey red.

But for all the idiosyncrasies, Burton’s skill with tailoring was the big story. in short Very much McQueen, down to the plastic face masks, so don’t go putting any money on this hitting the high street any time soon.

chRisTopheR RaebuRn This was Christopher Raeburn’s most accomplished collection to date, one in which the designer managed to adeptly marry his theme and influences with the commerciality and practicality fashion demands. His maps from spring made a fleeting appearance externally before slipping back inside linings for his exercise in excellent outerwear, as look after look came out boasting a belter of a duffle, parka, mac or bomber. Hoods were the order of the day as Raeburn mixed his signature technical fabrics with checked wools, his earthy palette only interrupted by two poppy red jackets and a bag. in short Raeburn clearly had sales in mind when creating this collection and he should reap rewards with his taped seams show.

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DIRECTIONS I menswear autumn 13

JW Anderson

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 88

Some called JW Anderson’s collection the Marmite show of the week, opening with frilly hemmed high-waisted short shorts, boob tubes and thigh-length tunics. These gender-bending boundary-pushers certainly raised eyebrows, but look beyond them and you find some menswear classics with the JW spin.

Lovely trench coats and wearable overcoats in camel, blue and pinstripe, alongside strong intarsia knits ripe for high street interpretations.

In short Anderson’s effeminate blurring of men’s and women’s wear is nothing new – remember the lace from spring 13? But among those pieces were some great items sure to fly from the shelves, even if the short shorts don’t.

MAttheW MIller This was an exercise in what Matthew Miller does best – a wardrobe of razor-sharp tailoring blended with sports-meets-street style outerwear for a rakish lad about town.

This season he was in a darker mood, drenched in black and white with slashes of red. Signature tailoring came as skinny 4db and 2sb suits, layered on top of sweatshirts, slogan knits and crisp white shirts. Storm-flapped trench coats took the form of full lengths or cropped styles, alongside a chunky leather alligatortextured biker jacket.

In short Every season Miller’s collections become more refined, with autumn 13 being his slickest but somehow most wearable to date. His slogan knits may have read ‘Born to Fail’, but we’re sure he’s not.

ChrIstopher shAnnon Christopher Shannon moved his signature look into darker territory this season.

Inspired by documentaries of obsessivecompulsive hoarders, he reinterpreted his patchworks from spring 12 as cobbledtogether knits, mixing panels of cable, waffle and intarsias, with signature sweaters in contrast fabric panels and denim gaffer-taped together. As always, the canny designer brought us something new, introducing leather to add a luxe element, while the knits and simple shirts are sure to be commercial hits.

In short Although inspired by hoarders, the finished product couldn’t have been slicker. New leather pieces and winning knitwear mean Shannon is sure to go from strength to strength.

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 89

JonAthAn sAunders The king of colour this season, Jonathan Saunders clashed and matched an array of soft shades that are sure to inspire next winter. There was a casual, unbuttoned feeling that was new this season. As always, the Scot’s knits were spot on, with textured mottled finishes, ombré effects and new camo-like patterns. The outerwear was great too, whether the more formal long-line striped overcoats or casual cropped jackets in felted wool in block colours and striped finishes.

In short Like his womenswear, Saunders is quickly honing his men’s line, with wearable and effortless pieces in an array of new fabrics and shapes and a perfect colour palette for those brave enough to stray away from black and navy.

e tAutz This was possibly E Tautz’s most ‘fashion’ collection to date, confidently stepping outside the confines of an extremely well-tailored suit and playing with concepts of a modern man’s wardrobe.

Tartans exploded across a variety of coat and jacket shapes, each as lovely as the last. Dotty patterned tweed was reinvented as mini Space Invader patterns and nostalgic graphic knits brought a smile to people’s faces. Suits were still tailored to perfection, with trousers going from skinny to wide, casually tucked into socks like a tracksuit.

In short A great collection of classics with a modern twist, all wearable. The confident tweaking of traditional outerwear could u well inspire the high street.

YMC

Lou Dalton Martine Rose

Mr Start

Hackett Meadham Kirchhoff

Xander Zhou

Sibling

Margaret Howell

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 90

Oliver Spencer

DIRECTIONS I menswear autumn 13

Best of the rest The hackett gent was sharp and smart this season, with a commercial collection that covered everything from dressed-down duffle coats and printed knitwear for country walks, to sophisticated tailoring fit for any elegant ball.

Another strong collection from lou dalton, one of London’s most consistent menswear mavens, blended a tailored look with workwear elements in which her outerwear proved the star of the show. oliver spencer too

produced a collection of covetable menswear for the modern man, toeing the line between smart and casual. Mr start kept things sleek, with a razor-sharp smartness on slim sb suits and dapper roll-necks.

The offering from YMC was a moody affair, with zippered trousers and a killer leather jacket teamed with an excellent array of knits. It was an unexpectedly subdued outing for Meadham Kirchhoff, where black and white dominated on snappy buttoned-up waistcoats,

high-waisted trousers and embroidered tunics that looked moth-eaten but were in fact delicately embroidered.

Margaret howell did what she does best, updating and refining wardrobe staples for today’s man; tonal shades of grey were key, with a seafarer slant. Martine rose pushed proportion play, cropping jackets and exploding trouser widths teamed with on-trend faux fur-trimmed parkas and pieces patchworked from

recycled beer mats. sibling created a headline-grabbing show with its oversized monster knits and mammoth mittens, but beneath the pizazz of the performance were many great pieces. Fair Isle, graphic and leopard-print jumpers, cardigans, polo shirts and joggers all got top marks. And a name to watch out for – Chinese designer Xander zhou, who took smart military and sleek tailoring references to the street, making them fresh and cool for 2013.

Inspired by the artwork of Daniele Buetti, with his kind authorization - Photo : G. Defaix

12-14 February 2013 Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com Spring Summer 14 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ N E W

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DIRECTIONS I MensweAr AUTUMn 13

Pitti Uomo

Trends failed to move on significantly but there were plenty of strong ranges in Florence

Drapers / JAnUAry 19 2013 _ 92

Words by AnA SAnti & VictoriA GAllAGher

For more brands and opinion from Florence, make sure you visit www.drapersonline.com/ PittiUomo

Smoke signal: Kenzo was this season’s guest designer

Technical fabrics, texture and pops of autumnal hues continued to dominate at menswear show Pitti Uomo’s autumn 13 edition in Florence. Although trends failed to move on dramatically from previous seasons, buyers insisted Pitti remains a key show on the menswear calendar, and plenty of brands – from established names to new labels making their show debut – delivered strong ranges for next autumn. The clash with London Collections: Men hit the attendance of UK buyers but all key stores ensured they had a presence at the show, which took place at Fortezza da Basso on January 8 to 11. There were also some great catwalk shows, as designer labels made the most of the Florentine architecture to put on spectacular events.

MensweAr AUTUMn 13 I DIRECTIONS

MaiSoN kitSuNé Quality fabrics and a strong palette make this premium label stand out.

The collection is made in France, Italy and the UK, with the latter providing the lightest handmade, 100% cashmere cable knits.

Wholesale manager Leyla Pursharifi says it is working to introduce more accessible price points. Wholesale entry prices are high: €130 (£81) for knits and €212 (176) for outerwear.

Contact: 00 33 1 42 62 68 66 www.kitsune.fr

Drapers / JAnUAry 19 2013 _ 93

NorwegiaN raiN Raincoat brand Norwegian Rain could come in handy if the UK remains as wet this year as it was in 2012. It combines Japanese performance recycled fabrics and techniques – including heat-sealed and water-tunnel seams to prevent rain from getting in – with sharp tailoring. Details include horn buttons and cashmere-lined collars.

Wholesale prices start at €210 (£130).

Contact: 00 47 996 03 411 www.norwegianrain.com

Jack SpaDe Prints on knits and shirts inspired by architects Charles and Ray Eames are a highlight of this season’s collection, as is the trademark bright colour palette.

New for autumn 13 is the Desert Suede range of water-resistant bags (Drapers witnessed a successful water test at the stand), a tailoring collection and club collars on shirts. Retail prices start at $295 (£183) for a suede bag, $195 (£121) for knitwear and $165 (£102) for shirts.

Contact: 00 1 212 739 6638 www.jackspade.com

DS DuNDee For autumn, outerwear brand DS Dundee went to Scotland to interview gamekeepers, fishermen and stalkers to find out what they want in a jacket. The result is three coats designed to withstand the elements, wholesaling for between £300 and £400. The brand’s mainline has been stripped back from 175 pieces last autumn to 50, as it focuses on knitwear and outerwear. Wholesale prices for the mainline start from £75 to £100.

Contact: 020 7241 2448 u www.dsdundee.com

DIRECTIONS I MensweAr AUTUMn 13

HarDy aMieS Offering a modern English sartorial look, Hardy Amies marries a formal style with a dressed-down approach.

Layering is key, with structured trench coats teamed with blazers, cardigans and shirts in shades including burnt orange, forest green and navy. For autumn 13, the British brand has introduced a selection of Made in England garments. The five outerwear pieces, including duffle and pea coats, have been made in London using British fabrics. Retail prices are from £35 to £795.

Contact: 00 39 331 531 2047 www.hardyamies.com

Drapers / JAnUAry 19 2013 _ 94

garcia MaDriD Spanish brand Garcia Madrid is on the hunt for stockists for its autumn 13 UK launch. The formal range includes cord suiting, cashmere jumpers and shirts in a vivid selection of colours, from turquoise prints to pastel pink. For this season it has introduced a twin set for men.

Wholesale prices range from €38 (£32) for a shirt to €200 (£166) for a jacket.

Contact: 00 34 91 522 0521 www.garciamadrid.com

ON THE RADAR — Fourth & Main Fourth & Main is debuting as a wholesale brand for the first time this season, after opening a store in spring 12.

The formalwear label is surprisingly affordable, with garments produced in India using British fabrics in order to keep costs competitive.

Key pieces include moleskin jackets and waxed-cotton coats in rusty autumnal hues.

Wholesale prices range from £20 to £138. www.fourthandmain.com

Alden USA

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 95

Founded in 1884, handcrafted footwear brand Alden USA offers shoes that are intended to “last a lifetime”. The range comprises navy boots, Oxfords, moccasins, brogues, and slip-ons, with many evergreen styles available throughout the year. The autumn 13 collection comes in pretty much 50 shades of brown, from chocolate and chestnut to tan and taupe with hints of hunting green, black and navy. Wholesale prices range from $250 (£155) to $375 (£233).

Contact: 00 1 781 710 6433 www.aldenshoe.com

McRitchie Knitwear brand McRitchie has a rainbow of coloured pieces for autumn 13, from zesty lime and bubblegum pink to forest green and dark maroon. The 100% wool collection comprises jumpers, cardigans, blazers and accessories made from Shetland wool.

Wholesale prices range from €65 (£54) to €85 (£71) for a jumper, while double-breasted blazers go up to €195 (£162).

Contact: 00 39 393 973 888 www.mcritchiebrand.com

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DIRECTIONS I menswear autumn 13

hamaki-ho

Top 5 Trends Performance fabrics

It’s been around for several seasons, but the trend for performancewear doesn’t appear to be fading. Fabrics and techniques, notably on outerwear, just keep getting more technical.

Padding is prevalent across Italian brand Hamaki-Ho’s collection. From padded jackets and blazers to quilted cardigans, warm casual looks dominate. The palette is narrow, with black or grey making up much of the offer with flashes of dark red and olive. Other pieces include dark jeans and casual sweatshirts. Wholesale prices range from €15 (£12) for knitwear to €64 (£53) for jackets.

Contact: 00 39 081 510 9035 www.hamaki-ho.com

The casual sartorialist

Casualwear brands have smartened up while formalwear brands have loosened up. But this is no smart casual; design stakes are high and they lie in the detail of each garment.

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 96

Autumnal brights

Menswear brands have traditionally erred on the side of caution when it comes to colour, but for autumn 13 autumnal hues are abundant, from forest greens and rusty oranges to deep red and vibrant yellow.

Texture

Whether it’s ribbing on knitwear or puckering on shirts, texture was everywhere at Pitti. Some brands opted for the softest of touches with silky cashmere fabrics, while others mixed fabrics for contrasting textures.

Knitwear as outerwear

Layering was a key styling technique at this season’s show, with many brands offering chunky knitwear instead of traditional outerwear. In many cases knitwear has been made to look like outerwear, with labels producing woollen jackets and blazers.

Chunky layering: Hardy Amies

Two Thirds Spanish menswear brand Two Thirds has taken the ocean as its inspiration. Teaming up with the likes of surfers and oceanographers to help influence the collection for autumn 13, the results include T-shirts featuring the slogan ‘Sea you soon’, plus a raindrop pattern on socks, bags and linings.

Urban Outfitters is the first stockist in the UK to take on the brand, for spring 13. Wholesale prices start at €35 (£22).

Contact: 020 7012 1420 www.twothirds.com

Pitti Uomo catwalks

Shiny fabrics, contrast textures and a sporty, sartorial look dominated the runways

kEnzo Kenzo’s autumn 13 catwalk was a show of two halves. The first offered a selection of outfits in a powder blue and white cloud print teamed with baby blue fuzzy coats and dark trousers, while the second half served up dark blue camouflage coats with matching rucksacks and striped maroon, mustard and white outfits – a strong, yet questionably commercial look. Metallic tailoring and sporty varsity jackets followed. At the end, the models remained on stage while the audience weaved around them taking photos. www.kenzo.com

JosEph abboud For autumn 13 Joseph Abboud’s creative director Bernardo Rojo channelled man’s journey into space, with the collection’s colour palette reflecting both the whiteness of space suits and the dark night sky. The show began with a white parka followed by more bright white outfits. Later, models were decked out in dark hues as Rojo combined shiny metallic fabrics with tailoring, while formal trousers had prominent creases.

There was a strong emphasis on the neck with long exaggerated collars, and outerwear also impressed. www.josephabboud.com

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 97

Ermanno scErvino With his atelier situated in the Florence hills, it made sense for Ermanno Scervino to show his men’s and women’s pre-collections at the city’s Palazzo Vecchio. “And it gives me the opportunity to show the men’s and women’s collections together,” he told Drapers.

Both shared a focus on texture, with super-soft leather, lace, stretch neoprene weaves, flannel and shiny lacquered fabrics featuring. But whereas tailoring was given a sporty and youthful twist in menswear, womenswear exuded sensuality and femininity. www.ermannoscervino.it

DIRECTIONS I THIS FASHION LIFE

‘We’re writing orders all year round and supporting British as much as we can’ ➝ How much did the moving of London’s

menswear shows from the end of London Fashion Week to the start of the season alter the way you buy? The earlier the collections are seen, the more budget is available. For buyers it’s great to have room to breathe around the London shows and the previous set-up for menswear always felt a little rushed. We are writing orders all year round, but – as I think most UK retailers are trying to do – we’re endeavouring to support British as much as we can.

What other trade shows and fashion weeks will you attend? It’s business as usual for Milan, Paris and New York, and our priority in terms of trade shows is always Pitti Uomo, particularly for accessories.

What menswear brands are selling well in Selfridges at the moment? Our designerwear offer, which we expanded significantly last season with a beautiful interior design concept in our London store and new collections, is outperforming our expectations. We’ve added Jonathan Saunders and Kenzo and have seen our customer move towards an extremely high-fashion guy.

You’re often spotted in a sharp suit – how many do you own? It’s got to be more than 70, with maybe 50 or 60 separate jackets.

I’ve got quite a lot of clothes, it must be said – I have to be pretty meticulous with storage.

And how many pairs of shoes? I’ve probably got more than 100 pairs. My favourites are Crockett & Jones and Church’s for classics, and Dries Van Noten on a fashion level. My favourite trainer brand is Superga.

What has been your biggest ever fashion splurge? A Tom Ford suit. I won’t reveal the price, but it made a dent.

Other than Selfridges, where are your favourite places to shop for clothes? New York and Japan are massively inspirational.

Who in the public eye do you think dresses well? Tom Ford, David Beckham and [rock star] Beck Hansen.

What’s the best thing about your job? We’re always excited about finding something new, and working out how to bring that to life.

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 98

➝

➝

Adam Kelly Selfridges’ sharp-suited menswear buying manager tells GRAEME MORAN his London Collections: Men highlights

The second edition of London Collections: Men has just finished.

What were the highlights for you?

The season overall was bigger, better and slicker this time around, and with the introduction of some of the bigger names it’s been elevated to an even more notable platform in terms of international recognition. Jonathan Saunders was great – a cool presentation. We loved McQueen too, the styling was beautiful.

➝

➝

➝ ➝ ➝ ➝

For an extended version of this interview, visit www.drapersonline.com/news/ this-fashion-life

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As rising labour costs make manufacturing in the Far East more expensive, some retailers and brands are heading back to Europe Words by Suzanne Bearne

T

he demand for faster fashion production has never been hotter than it is right now.

However, with increased wages and production costs eroding the once unbeatable competitive edge of traditional manufacturing bases such as China, many are now moving production closer to home to take advantage of shorter lead times so they can repeat in season.

One such retailer to capitalise on ‘nearsourcing’, as it is widely known, is House of Fraser. The department store chain has moved a fifth of its own-label production from China to Europe. allan Winstanley, its executive director of womenswear, accessories, beauty and visual, told Drapers last year that it could take up to eight months to get some products into store from asia. He said: “Producing in Turkey does dramatically shorten that period, and the cost is actually not that much more than it is doing it from China.”

Turkey, a country laden with raw materials and experts in denim, woven and casualwear, is one destination experiencing demand from uK retailers. In fact, George at asda was so smitten with its Turkish supplier GaaT that it bought its sourcing division. andrew Moore, chief merchandising officer at George, says that using nearby manufacturing has helped reduce lead times from 16 weeks to just eight. “Bringing

production of more fashionable lines closer to home, through Turkey for example, means we can react more quickly to what our customers want and to changes in the weather,” he explains. “For example, over the summer, we were able to bring forward cover-ups and macs at very short notice to react to the poor weather and boost sales.”

MoorE isn’t thE only onE banging the drum for Turkey. Fay Tear, supply chain director at Karen Millen, which produces its shirts, tailoring and outerwear in Turkey, reels off the benefits of manufacturing there: “It has quality tailoring, good lead times and the close proximity to the uK means the team can visit frequently, which gives us great visibility of our product. It’s also great for training purposes for more junior members of the team.”

In December, Vickie El-rayyes, buying manager at East, took a trip to Turkey to discover new buying opportunities as the womenswear chain looks to increase its denim category. She says: “With Turkey we can hop on a plane and be there in four hours.

It’s not 12 hours like China where we might be away for 10 days. It can be a very effective short trip and if anything needs sorting we can just fly out.”

Selim aksiyote, general manager at Turkish manufacturer Görkem Giyim, believes Turkey leads the way when it comes to repeat orders

and innovation. He says: “Here you can buy the full product, whereas with, say, Portugal or Bulgaria or other countries nearby you need the product shipped there.”

Portugal is a country that is also frequently on the agenda for buyers, offering easy access to raw materials and specialising in producing shirts, outerwear and jerseywear. according to El-rayyes, this country is experiencing a revival in manufacturing.

“Many more brands are coming back to Portugal. It produces beautiful quality garments and now, as there are price rises in China, there’s no longer a big difference in margin when you take away freight costs and shipment,” she explains.

Other countries closer to the uK are also emerging as important countries in the supply chain. Morocco is increasingly on the buying map, with a number of British brands visiting textile shows Maroc Sourcing and Maroc In Mode last October. romania remains popular for production thanks to its professional factories and fast turnaround. Liz Leffman, founder of sourcing information specialist Clothesource, says the country is excellent for the cut and sew production of jersey and wovens. “Their expertise is in women’s dresses and separates, men’s tailoring and outerwear,” she explains.

“Many factories are very good at complex styles u which is why retailers like Coast work there.”

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 101

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BUSINESS I SOurCInG

Drapers / january 19 2013 _ 102

as well as some traction to nearby Europe, uK manufacturing has also been making waves, with a number of British retailers and brands announcing plans to manufacture here. arcadia Group has increased the number of British factories it uses by 20% in the past year, while river Island has reportedly boosted the number of products it makes in the uK by 50% due to rising labour costs in China.

JUst lAst Month DEBEnhAMs announced plans to stock more clothing made in the uK and to create a new brand called Made by Great Britons.

Like many businesses that have switched production to Europe, Debenhams group trading director Suzanne Harlow says the key advantage is speed to market. “It’s crucial for us as our fashion ranges are inspired by the latest catwalk trends. This means we need to turn our designs into production as quickly as possible,” she adds.

Designer womenswear label roland Mouret has boosted its production in the uK, increasing the number of factories it works with from one to seven in the past two years. This has helped create a collaborative relationship between the brand and factory, says its head of production and sourcing Daliah Simble. “We are in and out of the factories every other day and working together on finishes. and from a luxury brand perspective, we have complete control over the product.” another retailer considering manufacturing more in the uK is East. “We have a very small amount of jerseywear made here, but increasing uK manufacturing is something we are looking at,” says El-rayyes. “We want to be able to react to the trends in shapes more quickly.”

While announcements of increasing uK production offer green shoots of optimism for the industry, at the same time factories across the country are closing. Figures from the European union’s statistical department Eurostat show that the production value of the manufacturing of textiles in the uK, which includes the preparation and spinning of textile

‘We love to support UK production wherever we can, but the UK has lost a lot of skills’ Andrew Moore, chief merchandising officer, George at Asda

On the move: House of Fraser (left) and Roland Mouret have boosted production in the UK and Europe

fibres and weaving, was €5.9bn (£4.8bn) in 2011, down from €6.5bn (£5.3bn) in 2008.

Michael Flanagan, chief executive of Clothesource, is one critic of speculation about a uK production resurgence. “all this crap about there being a trend for uK manufacturing,” he says. “and all of these stupid publicity stunts about five people making a pair of knickers ignores the fact there’s closures of real factories. It’s a fantasy world.”

Even if there were to be a significant rise for uK manufacturing, in reality it would be difficult to satisfy the demand.

“London factories are getting full to capacity,” explains Simble. “We would love to expand production here but there’s a skills gap.”

Moore, who adds that George at asda has doubled its production from the uK in the past few years – albeit from a small base – echoes this. “We currently source from three factories

in the uK. We love to support uK production wherever we can, but the uK has lost a lot of skills,” he says. to BriDGE this GAP, thE UK needs more apprenticeship schemes and investment from the government, argues Simble. “The bigger retailers need to set up their own factory or invest in skills,” she says.

But for some retailers, such as home shopping retailer Shop Direct Group, there’ll be no increase in near-sourcing. In fact, the company has swung some production back to China from Turkey. Sourcing director Tony jowett says this is thanks to “more effective planning and the efforts of our Far East suppliers to reduce their lead times and costs”.

With a greater emphasis on speed to market, a balanced approach of near-sourcing coupled with moving production to cheaper locations, such as asia, could be the answer for fashion retailers in the future.

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CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here

_ Massimo Ciabattini

Harrods’ trainee retail manager for luxury accessories gained a sales degree with the department store

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What does your diary look like today? As a trainee retail manager I spend most of my time on the shop floor. My main focus is on delivering retail sales and service strategy through the effective management of my team and inspirational leadership.

What task are you most looking forward to? As always, I’m looking forward to exceeding my daily sales targets.

What task do you wish you could postpone? Administrative work isn’t my favourite thing, but fortunately I can delegate.

How did you get to where you are now? Because I believe I’ve developed a strong, positive mindset made of passion for Harrods, plus humility towards life, commitment to transform challenges into opportunities and a determination to pursue goals.

What has been your career highlight? Undoubtedly the graduation ceremony for the Harrods BA (Hons) degree in sales.

It was a wonderful and very emotional event, attended by Harrods’ senior management team, the university lecturers,

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colleagues and, of course, my family. It was an extraordinary experience sharing such a unique achievement with my co-workers after two years of intense studies and hard work.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I began my studies in Italy, starting out in computer engineering before moving into fashion retail.

Looking back I wish I’d started working in fashion retail sooner.

It would have given me more experience today.

Who is your mentor?

Marigay McKee, Harrods’ chief merchant. She is a truly inspirational person, full of knowledge, and I’ve learnt a huge amount from her.

What’s the best piece of advice she’s given you? To always take your job seriously, maintain a great work ethic and lead by example in order to build a solid reputation. Also, time is a great resource and it is crucial to make the best out of it. Above all I remember these words, ‘Knowledge is power’.

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CV

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2012 Trainee retail manager, fashion accessories, Harrods 2012 Graduated with first class BA (Hons) in sales from Harrods 2012 Concessions supervisor, fashion accessories, Harrods 2009 Sales associate (Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs, then Dolce & Gabbana), fashion accessories, Harrods 2007 Sales associate, menswear, David Mayer Naman

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How do you see your career progressing? Harrods has fantastic opportunities. I see myself progressing towards higher management positions in the store, and am nurturing the

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dream of one day becoming a director there.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? To have passion in what you do, and always remain humble and fair to others and stay positive.

People are one of the most valuable assets in everything we do so it’s essential to learn to work well with them.

What other area of fashion would you like to work in?

Womenswear. I’m also fascinated by brands such as Christian Dior and Valentino which – with their unique touch of heritage – express women’s beauty with exquisite dresses and accessories.

Salaries for this position range from £25,000 to £30,000 (estimate by Handle Recruitment)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

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ACCOUNT MANAGER/DESIGNER 30k-40k

Established international jersey womenswear supplier for H&M,ZARA, based in Greece/Bulgaria is seeking an experienced sales person with fashion design background, commercial talented and creative, for its UK West End office.

Main responsibilities: Designing and selling on-trend fast fashion to High Street retailers.

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Main requirements: Proven sales experience.

Immediate contacts are very important.

Strong fashion / trend knowledge. hr@kalestesia.gr Good eye for print and designs.

• • • • • • • •

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com

JANUARY 19 2013

TECHNICAL MANAGER OCCASIONWEAR DESIGNER

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All applicants please apply in confidence to steven@naomitsukishima.com

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As a result of our growth and success we currently have two exciting opportunities at our growing head office for a talented:

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Sales Executive

We are looking for a keen and enthusiastic sales executive within our licensed character division with contacts both with high street retailers and value supermarkets. You will be experienced in working to targets and with the knowledge of quality and critical paths to develop an already highly successful part of this global company’s success.

Senior Technician

A major global supplier of ladies fashion garments, this company has a presence in almost all UK high street ladies retail and online outlets. With our owned manufacturing units across Asia and retail accounts globally this major organisation supplies a global account base.

Based in west end of London this role requires experience in working to high levels of accuracy and a good knowledge of garment production and the ability to suggest and recommend good practise.

Wholesale Merchandiser

Our client is a highly successful design and manufacturing company with accounts open with all major UK high street retailers. The candidate will be expected to have experience working as a supplier to the ladies retail market, management of the critical path, the awareness of good customer relations and an ability to solve issues. Good promotion prospects and a generous package exists for the right candidate

Junior Mens Design Assistant

Working with sales team to interpret and design from customer briefs working with High St men’s own label casual wear. Knowledge of main stream men’s fashion and some experience working with Far East suppliers are an advantage.

Receptionist/Office Administrator

These are opportunities to join a company with an international operation.

You will be working in the office of a fashion supplier to some of the leading High Street Retailers.

Experienced Merchandisers Must have at least 2 years experience in England within the fashion business on running your own store account. You must also have a good understanding of the leading High Street Retailers. Strong candidates must have knowledge of CMT, with a strong focus and are articulate on following the critical path.

Fashion Apprentices Apprentices required to work alongside our merchandising, designing and web team, able to help make decisions with tasks in hand. You must have the ability to use Photoshop, Illustrator and cad along with a strong passion for fashion and print design. Also seeking apprentices interested in fashion marketing/digital marketing, advantage if you have already worked for an online fashion business. Undergraduates Apply.

Experienced Sample Machinist Must be able to construct samples both, knitted and woven, casual and formal to store standard.

Highly Experience Roving QC Quality Controller in both ladies and children’s fashion. Having worked on both woven and knitted garments. You will need to visit our factories in India and Europe, maintaining quality up to store standard. Knowledge of factory compliance is essential.

To find out more about any of our jobs please go to www.drapersjobs.com and search for ‘Tiro Recruitment’ or call us directly on 01494 673564

Please email your cover letter & CV in confidence to susank@innocenceclothing.com

Apply in confidence by sending your CV to Jane@TIROrecruitment.com FTCT_TICT Draper Half Horizontal.pdf

1

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Working for a busy fashion wholesale business based in west end. Must have good telephone manner and office administration experience. Interesting position for the right candidate.

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON - Competitive

SOURCING MANAGER LONDON - Attractive

JSD is a design led business with a growing market share at the premium end of the Corporate Clothing industry. The company is looking for a high-energy, experienced individual to join our Production team and take responsibility for sourcing and managing our worldwide manufacturing portfolio. The successful applicant will have an in depth knowledge of the Corporate wear / Retail manufacturing industry – specialising in tailoring and shirts / blouses (both men’s and ladies). Ideally 5 years previous experience

MERCHANDISER HAMPSHIRE - £35k - 45k per year + Benefits We currently have opportunities within Garden Care, Building, Kitchens & Bedrooms and Home. The successful candidate will maximise sales opportunities and profit potential whilst minimising markdown spend.

Responsibility of developing and trading a product group wthin the category working closely with the Buyer. You will also have responsibility for daily figure analysis, future sales and range planning, as well as communicating closely with suppliers in line with the trading plan.

BUYER HAMPSHIRE - £40k - 50k per year + Benefits We currently have opportunities within Building, Kitchens & Bedrooms and Home. The succesful candidate will grow, manage and lead an individual product group in creating and delivering an inspirational product range that meets our customer’s needs, builds brand value, drives sales and profit growth and improves market share across all channels.

TECHNICAL DESIGNER LONDON – Dependant on experience

VISUAL STYLIST NATIONWIDE - £Competitive

Beyond Retro Label is about creating new designs by completely deconstructing and then reworking or modifying original garments into new innovative designs, While sustainability is inherent to our brand; above all, we are looking for someone to help bring to life vintage inspired on-trend pieces that complement our existing vintage product. Our Beyond Retro Label line also fulfils product demand that we are unable to find in our existing vintage supply. Working as part of our Product Team, you will develop company product ideas, create garment specifications, fit garments, build good relationships with factories and advise the team of the business on all quality issues. You will be a critical contributor to the smooth process from design, sampling, production and display to shop floors.

It’s vital we keep our stores looking their very best; that’s what our products and our customers deserve. So, you’ll be turning our store designs and creative themes into reality, taking them from the page to the salesfloor with stand-out outfits, fixtures and displays across all our departments. You’ll need a keen eye for detail and a flair for fashion, with at least 6 months’ experience within visual merchandising. You’ll also enjoy both the practical and creative discipline involved in applying themes to shop floors. Flexible and calm under pressure, you’ll need to be self-motivated and willing to work irregular shift patterns every now and then.

DESIGN MANAGER - LADIESWEAR MIDLANDS – £Package to attract the best

ASSISTANT MANAGER - SEVENOAKS KENT - £14,500 per annum

If you’re driven by creativity and passionate about high-quality fashion and design, take a close look at our client. With a great combination of stylish fashions, new ranges and brilliant prices, this ambitious brand is soon becoming the number one choice for more and more savvy consumers. Part of one of the UK’s leading retail businesses, it is now driving through exciting growth plans, which all adds up to an exceptional opportunity for you to give your career a higher profile. In this new role, you’ll develop and deliver an imaginative design strategy and bring focused creative direction as you strive to constantly exceed sales, margin and profit targets. Excellent leadership skills are essential, with the ability to enthuse and inspire your team to drive new and inventive solutions. What’s more, you will have your finger on the pulse of what’s happening now; you will be aware of catwalk trends, yet ultimately be driven and be able to develop key looks in the real world.

“It’s like running your own boutique with worldwide potential, as the training and career development is outstanding” Branch Manager Monsoon Accessorize Monsoon Accessorize is an exciting and ethical fashion brand with over 400 UK retail branches in prime locations coupled with 1,000 international branches across five continents and massive expansion plans.

Our people take pride in working for a privately-owned organisation that treats customers, suppliers and employees with respect. Eastern influenced and somewhat bohemian, our distinctive look is original and inspired. Constantly challenging, you should develop a deep understanding of your role and be prepared to go that extra mile.

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

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This award winning designer, manufacturer and distributor of corporate clothing, based in West London, are looking for an experienced Garment Technologist/ to join this young dynamic team. Established in 1981 this dynamic design agency produce corporate clothing for a wide range of wellknown companies across most areas of industry. They are well known in the industry for exciting designs, high quality manufacture and exceptional after sales service. Over the years the company has grown from strength to strength established a good customer base and reputation within the market for design and quality. The successful candidate will manage the sealing process and oversee the critical path with suppliers.

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

SENIOR LADIESWEAR DESIGNER / DESIGN MANAGER EAST MIDLANDS – Competitive Our client is a leading supplier of ladies jerseywear. They have an excellent opportunity for a Senior Ladieswear Designer/Design Manager to join their team. You will be leading the team to produce commercial designs and working with sample machinists and pattern technologists to develop samples. Deliver presentations to the Directors and customers as well as identify and developing key trends in line with requirements are essential elements of the role. You must have ladies jersey design experience with a feminine handwriting and proven success of designing for the high street.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625601’

ASSISTANT BRANCH MERCHANDISER CENTRAL LONDON – Up to £32,000

E-COMMERCE ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER CENTRAL LONDON – Up to £32,000 Handle is looking for an ambitious E-commerce Assistant Merchandiser who is passionate about merchandising.

This accomplished national ladies wear brand is recruiting for their successful E-commerce team. Reporting directly into the E-commerce Merchandiser, the ideal candidate should have a minimum of one years’ experience as an Assistant Merchandiser from a fast pace fashion background – online experience is desirable but not essential.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625430’

JANUARY 19 2013

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CENTRAL LONDON - £35 to £50k + benefits

We are looking to recruit two Fabric Technologists specialising in Men’s shirts and Men’s suiting, for one of the UK’s leading Retailers.

Successful candidates will drive fabric innovation working closely with the buying teams and supply base. Applicants must be fully conversant with Menswear fabric standards & development procedures. These are both excellent opportunities to develop your career with an established Brand. Candidates must be able to demonstrate a minimum of 4 years as a Menswear Fabric Technologist, preferably with a combination of Retail and Industry experience, an in depth knowledge of either Men’s shirting or suiting fabrics & their testing requirements, a sound understanding of Menswear construction and manufacturing techniques a commercial and innovative approach to new product development, excellent Supplier management and communication skills and the ability to work independently within a team environment.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625737’

Handle is looking for a focussed Assistant Branch Merchandiser to join a well-known ladies wear high street retailer be a part of their fast paced merchandising team. Reporting directly to the Senior Branch Merchandiser, the ideal candidate should have a minimum of one years’ experience as an Assistant Branch Merchandiser from a fashion background.

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FABRIC TECHNOLOGISTS- MEN’S SHIRTS AND SUITING

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625418’

CHILDRENSWEAR DESIGNER NORTH WEST - c£23k - £27k plus depending on experience

This successful high street supplier requires a talented girlswear designer with multi product experience. The designer will develop ranges of commercial girlswear from newborn through to 12 years and will also be responsible for the design of graphics and prints for these ranges. The designer will carry out trend research, work to briefs, create ranges, attend meetings with the buyers and liaise with overseas suppliers on a regular basis. Previous experience in a similar role and excellent CAD skills are essential.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625221’

SENIOR BUYER - LADIESWEAR HOME BASED UK - Excellent This highly successful retailer is looking for a talented senior buyer to build a market leading range of fashion forward ladieswear, specifically covering dresses and wovens. The role can be based from home however you must be able to visit their office in Yorkshire at least two days per week. Applicants must have a background in buying dresses and wovens for a fast fashion trend-driven high street retailer. Overseas sourcing experience and a keen eye for the next big trend are essential.

CHILDRENSWEAR / BABYWEAR DESIGNER ESSEX AND SURROUNDING AREAS - Competitive We have fantastic opportunities for Childrenswear / Babywear designers to join a progressive and growing business. You will be designing and developing new ranges as well as being responsible for researching trends, fabric sourcing, development, range building and prints & colour. You must have experience of designing Children’s/Babywear ranges for UK high street retailers and the ability to work with illustrator and photoshop.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625332’

STRONG SALES CONSULTANT LONDON – Negotiable + EXCELLENT COMMISION

We are urgently looking for a STRONG SALES CONSULTANT. This is a fantastic opportunity to work for an exciting, fast paced expanding company, selling fashion clothing in ladies, mens and childrens wear.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625016’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625778’

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2624405’

BUYER ELSTREE, HERTFORDSHIRE (NORTH WEST LONDON) – £30,000 - £35,000 (depending on experience) My 1st Years are the leading online retailer within the industry over the last 3 years. In spite of our swift growth we still retain a firm grasp of our core brand values, focusing on providing the highest quality products, offering something personal to each transaction. We are looking for an experienced Buyer to join our team.

HEAD OF SALES & MARKETING EAST MIDLANDS – Negotiable Fantastic opportunity to lead the development of a branded business. As Head of Sales & Marketing you will lead an inspire an established team. Responsible for developing product, raising brand profile & market position to maximise current sales activities. Building retail partnership across sales channels and exploring new business opportunities. A background in branded apparel, preferably lingerie or intimates is highly desirable experience.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625107’

PRODUCTION MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive

Young, dynamic, womenswear brand needs an ambitious Production Manager to be responsible for all aspects of the Production process. The role will involve improving, implementing and management of the critical path, Setting, negotiating and agreeing budgets and timescales. You will also manage the current supply relationship and ensuring that they meet pricing targets, fabric matching and high quality standards, including quality assurance and Diversify current production channel to achieve production targets and delivery dates. You will conduct constant analysis of the production process; monitor and make improvements as needed as well as reporting. You will need to have had extensive experience working in womenswear and accessories and experience working with factories in China; ideally have experience/contacts in other territories.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625746’

MERCHANDISING MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON - Competitive

Young, dynamic, womenswear brand needs an experienced Merchandising Manager. You will be responsible for financial accountability; category budgets, development of pricing strategy, range management; study and define product mix, stock optimisation across two brands; supply chain, e-commerce and wholesale, initiate and co-ordinate inventory and control re-ordering/transfers and management of multi-channel P&L. You will also review sales and sell through analyses and propose action plan, conduct on-going merchandising to ensure stock is managed to maximise sales and margin, conduct range expansion and develop complex sales planning and cost management; strong analytical ability. You must be able to identify opportunities and develop long term sales driving strategies and have a knowledge of fashion products. In addition 4-5 years merchandising experience is preferred.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625712’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625673’

HEAD OF SALES FASHION ACCESSORIES LONDON AND SOUTH EAST - £50,000 - £60,000

MARKETING DIRECTOR HONG KONG – Attractive package plus incentive to match experience and ability.

Our client is a well established Fashion Accessories Supplier to major retailers and brands. They have an exciting opportunity for a Head of Sales to lead and motivate the team in growing the existing accounts and looking at new opportunities with major international retailers and brands. If you have Senior Account/Sales Manager experience in a trend lead fashion accessories market place with a proven track record of success achieving budgets, target and growth please forward your CV today.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625813’

Established apparel design and sourcing company specializing in high fashion women’s apparel is seeking a self-motivated, seasoned professional with strong communication skills and established contacts with high street and European buyers. You will be responsible to drive and achieve sales/marketing plan by making best use of the company’s resources and supply chains, identify business opportunities in line with the company strategy to develop new business leads. The ideal candidate will have a least 15 years retail connection at a high level, knowledgeable of brands/price point of medium to high-end market. A strategic thinker with strong product development capability, good customers connection and marketing orientation / account management skills a must, preferably from a UK fashion/buying environment. Daily customer interaction and worldwide international travel require.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2625800’

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2623879’

An exciting role has arisen for an experienced Quality Manager for a Luxury Accessories and Menswear Brand. The ideal candidate will have in depth experience working as a Manager/Senior Leather Technologist, proven relationships with tanneries, makers and trim suppliers in Europe and Asia.

The candidate will also have the ability to appraise systems and procedures that monitor product quality. If you have the relevant experience, contact us for more details!

JANUARY 19 2013

HUMAN RESOURCES BUSINESS PARTNERMATERNITY COVER LONDON - Up to £37,000 A fantastic opportunity has arisen for a Human Resources Business Partner for a yearlong maternity cover contract with a leading global brand in London. The successful candidate will have experience in HR in the UK with a similar scale fashion brand and will be ready to hit the ground running in a fast paced, exciting environment. If this sounds like the right opportunity for you, get in touch!

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QUALITY MANAGER – LEATHER GOODS LONDON - Competitive

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Drapers /

SWEATSHIRTS

Optimize production time and save fabric.

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COMPUTER SYSTEMS

JANUARY 19 2013

Hangers & Display Products

0800 45 11 22 morplan.com

Manufacturing GARMENT LABELS

EMBROIDERY SERVICE

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

NEW BUSINESS REQUIRED

PROFESSIONALEMBROIDERY UK London (EAST) Based embroidery facilities.

Latest CAD CAM technologies 24h production, Bulk contract work & 1 off samples.

Over 20 Years in the making!

Possibly the BEST embroiders in the UK TEL: 020 8983 4441 M: 07984 792311 Ask for Aled……..he’s brilliant, lots of energy!!!

echo3world.com

GARMENT CMT We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

Tel. 0048 502215339 Fax. 004868 4534854 wojciech.szwabowicz@classic-collection.pl http://www.classic-collection.pl/

Please mention Drapers when replying to these adverts

www.drapersonline.com

GARMENT CMT

Halcyon Blue

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory.

Tel 0115 944 1944 or 07779 961217

GARMENT SAMPLING & SMALL PRODUCTION RUNS.

London based offers sampling & c.m.t. production in Leather & Cloth Email crazyhorseltd@gmail.com

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

JEANS BUTTONS

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

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EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

Drapers /

LININGS

www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics.

Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities.

Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630 TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

To MESSRS

www.drapersonline.com

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

ORDER No.

A/C No.

Sales Agents required, Apply Now.

ORDER No. DATE

Notice board

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

www.drapersonline.com

STOCK WANTED ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

Established 1973 Established 1973

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – STOCK WANTED: PAYMENT LSS Services Best cash paid Overstocks, Mixed Unit 6 Stocks, No Minimum/Maximum Order Atlas Business Centre PastOxgate seasonsLane welcome Professional, London NW2quick 7HJ turnaround & friendly Tel: 020 8208 0404 service.

Fax: 020 8208 4414 stock@lssservices.co.uk Contact: 07730466954 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best.

Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual.

Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY

GRADING

AUTHORISED Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

Stock wanted

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

E.Mids based designers and offshore manufacturers of woven childrens partywear, fancy dress and dancewear, turnover £2.5m, looking for acquisition or merger opportunities to complement its existing own label and global brand contract business and maximise its assets including:

GRADE HOUSE

· UK design, technical, sampling, remedial and warehouse facilities. · ISO and Sedex reg. Sri Lankan factory. · Existing Asian and Far East subcontractors and fabric/trim supply chains. · Capacity 10,000pcs per week.

Costing & Markers

Serious enquiries to pobox9583@gmail.com

eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum.

Stockroom clearance is our speciality.

Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk STOCK WANTED

Westlee Trading Limited All types of stock required – cancelled orders, residual stocks.

We buy, we pay, we collect and we de-label.

Call 01132 444 514/ 0777 166 6633 Email westleetrading@live.com

STOCK WANTED

FOR SALE The Business and Assets of Shimmsuit Ltd Goodwill & Stocks Female and Male swimwear designers, manufacturers and ecommerce business.

Please apply in writing in the first instance to: E Kingsley (Mrs) liz@shimmsuit.com

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

TEXTILE RECYCLING

www.shimmsuit.com FREELANCE SERVICES

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

Secure Recycling/Disposal Service For over stock, redundant, seconds, returns or seized goods.

Range of options available Certificate of destruction provided Tel: 0207 476 2888 ross@lmb.co.uk www.lmb.co.uk

Pattern Grading Children’s,Ladies & Men’s

Tel: 02035442244 www.gradehouse.co.uk info@gradehouse.co.uk FREELANCE SERVICES

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

Childrens, Ladies and Mens.

N11 info@datagraf.co.uk

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com

DATAGR AF LTD

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

JANUARY 19 2013

and Preppi.

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Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery.

Drapers /

Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

Head Office and Wholesale Outlet David Jones Cottage Florentia Clothing Village Vale Road, London N4 1TD T : 0208 880 1211 F : 0208 880 1511 E : chichidirect1@googlemail.com chichiconcessions@gmail.com

Wholesale Outlet 145 Commercial Road London E1 1PX T : 0207 377 9944 F : 0207 539 9288 E : chichidirect1@googlemail.com chichi@chichi-direct.co.uk

www.chichiclothing.com

OFF THE RECORD Downing Street, Duchamp and Weekend Offender hosted London Collections: Men action

WHAT London Collections: Men official launch WHERE 10 Downing Street

Drapers / JANUARY 19 2013 _ 116

WHAT Weekend Offender party WHERE Weekend Offender store, D’Arblay Street, London

Streetwear brand Weekend Offender threw a party for friends of the brand, organised by Haddon PR. Guests included Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels actor Vas Blackwood (left) and Neil Morris of footwear brand Veras.

The drinks Tiger Beer and absinthe.

WHAT Duchamp drinks reception WHERE Little House, Queen Street, Mayfair, London

Men’s luxury tailoring brand Duchamp held a drinks reception to mark the start of London Collections: Men. Guests included (above, from left) Duchamp’s Alison Psarolis, TV presenter Rick Edwards and Duchamp’s Marc Psarolis.

The drinks Cocktails.

Prime Minister David Cameron (below) hosted a reception at 10 Downing Street to celebrate the launch of London Collections: Men. Guests included the best of British designers, representatives from fashion brands and industry commentators.

GQ editor Dylan Jones and Natalie Massenet, incoming chair of the British Fashion Council, organiser of LCM, also attended the event (bottom).

The food Canapés.

The drinks A selection of English wines and virgin elderflower cocktails.

Shhhhhh!

Which well-known international fashion writer referred to a leading politician as ‘chubby’ after he rudely turned his back on her?

WHAT GQ London Collections: Men dinner WHERE Sketch, Mayfair

GQ held a star-studded dinner at Sketch to mark the autumn 13 edition of London Collections: Men. Attendees included (from left) actor and presenter James Corden, One Direction’s Harry Styles, rap star Tinie Tempah, and designer JW Anderson.

GOING TO A GOOD PARTY? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to Ruth Faulkner at ruth.faulkner@emap.com

For further information and to make an appointment call us on +44 (0)207 734 0365 www.uk.eden-park.com

TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT CONTACT RYAN HENRY T: 07787 108 426 E: rhenry@morleymenswear.com AIMEX SOLIHULL 29-31 JANUARY STITCH LONDON 12-13 FEBRUARY MODA BIRMINGHAM 17-19 FEBRUARY STAND ME11

morleymenswear.com