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smart investor A former bank in Wolverhampton is given the flagship treatment by Diffusion INTERVIEW John Marquis of Jersey store De Gruchy / P16

INDEPENDENTS Buying group AIS is taking on the high street / P26

SUPPLY CHAIN How multichannel retailers deal with returns / P28

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HoF shareholders poised to agree May flotation Divided investors expected to approve stock market return as retailer seeks estimated £300m

By Catherine Neilan

House of Fraser is aiming for a May 2014 return to the stock market, Drapers understands, with the company thought to be in the final stages of negotiations with shareholders.

The department store group, which has already been publicly listed twice before, has been in talks for some months with shareholders including BG Holding, entrepreneur Tom Hunter’s TBH Trading, HoF chairman Don McCarthy and Kevin Stanford, co-founder of Karen Millen and All Saints.

It is thought the potential listing has divided the shareholder base, but a source close to the situation indicated discussions were now coming to a close, with a vote expected to take place soon. Reports have suggested a float could raise £300m, and listing would also aim to simplify the business’s complicated shareholder structure.

The source said: “Flotation would be a sensible solution to resolve shareholder issues that have been there since the collapse of the Icelandic banks [but it will also] allow the business to expand.

Fair share: House of Fraser could raise £300m through a stock market listing

“Once HoF has paid down some debt it will be in a stronger position and can drive the business even harder. Growth is being held back by the shareholder base.”

Drapers understands the 61-store business will use a significant proportion of the money raised to pay down some of its £250m debt ahead of its 2018 maturity. The debt will start incurring a £22m annual interest from next year, but this would reduce if HoF bought

back some of the bond ahead of its maturity.

The rest of the cash will be ploughed back into the company, which is looking to build on its international expansion following the opening of its first overseas store in Abu Dhabi last week. At the time, chief executive John King said it marked “the first step in our expansion plan for the Middle East”.

HoF is also thought to be looking to expand online both in the UK,

where its click-and-collect channel has been gaining ground, and internationally, which the flotation would also support.

The move to list follows months of speculation that HoF would be bought by Sports Direct owner Mike Ashley, or the Qatar Investment Authority, which owns Harrods.

Founded in 1849, HoF first floated in 1948 and remained a public company until it was acquired by Mohamed Al Fayed in 1985, as part of his acquisition of HoF-owned Harrods. It returned to the stock market in 1994 before being bought again in 2006 by a group of investors led by Icelandic tycoon Jón Ásgeir Jóhannesson’s Baugur Group in a £350m deal.

Nick Hood, business risk analyst at Company Watch, said the listing would present an opportunity for HoF to “grasp the nettle of straightening out its rather misshapen balance sheet”, noting that potential investors would be cheered by a reduction in its debt, and that this would allow it to “ride out future retail storms and to take advantage of growth opportunities”.

HoF declined to comment.

Brewins joins Bank as turnaround gathers pace

COVER CREDIT: TOM CAMPBELL

By Victoria Gallagher

Republic co-founder Carl Brewins is to join young fashion chain Bank as commercial director, with sources indicating the move may pre-empt his acquisition of the business.

Brewins, who stepped back from day-to-day involvement in Republic after 26 years in January 2012, will join the JD Sports Fashion-owned Bank in November.

One source said: “He will go in for six months so he can take a look at whether he will buy it. If he were to buy it, it has been speculated that Tim Whitworth [former Republic

Leader of Republic: Brewins co-founded chain in 1986, originally as Just Jeans

chief executive] would go in too.”

Bank has been struggling of late, with like-for-like sales down 3.7% in the 26 weeks to August 3, dragging JD’s fashion arm down 2.2%.

In September, JD chief executive Barry Bown said he hoped to see the “first green shoots” of recovery for Bank by spring 14. Ex-Reiss trading director Gwynn Milligan was drafted in as managing director this summer.

Brewins was one of the names linked with buying Republic when it fell into administration in February. It was instead snapped up by Sports Direct.

A JD spokesman said: “We are delighted to have the benefit of [Brewins’] considerable experience in branded and own-brand young fashion within Bank.”

However, he declined to comment on speculation regarding a future takeover.

Last week it was revealed that Tom Edge, co-founder of Leeds-based Ark, had left the retailer just four months after its acquisition by JD. Drapers has since learnt that Guy Daltry, former buying director at Republic, is assisting the Ark management team.

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NEWS

Suppliers want clarity over Barratts finances

By Victoria Gallagher

Sales hike: autumn 13 is doing well

Next ups full-year profit forecasts Next has increased its profit forecast for the full calendar year following sales growth in the third quarter, despite volatile trading.

Sales rose 4.3% in the 13 weeks to October 26, above the retailer’s guidance for the second half of between 1% and 4%. Retail revenues during the period rose 0.4% as Next Directory sales soared 10.7%.

However, trading remained turbulent during the period. The three weeks of early to midSeptember delivered strong sales but revenues in the final week of each month were down.

Next has upped its guidance for the full year and now expects pre-tax profit to increase to between £650m and £680m, compared with the £635m to £675m previously forecast.

This would be a year-on-year profit growth of between 4.6% and 9.4%.

Overall sales growth is expected to be between 2% and 3.75% compared with the previous estimate of between 1.5% and 3.5%.

In September, Next revealed operating profits rose 7.2% during the first half of the year, as the retailer sold more stock at full price.

Next went into its Sale with 18% less stock than last year, reducing markdowns by 13%.

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Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

Footwear suppliers are seeking reassurances over the future of high street chain Barratts this week, following news it could go bust for the third time if it does not secure an emergency loan.

Owner Michael Ziff is believed to be trying to secure a £3m loan to help pay for stock in the run-up to Christmas. Ziff has approached turnaround investors and assetbased lenders for the funds but industry sources were not optimistic.

Barratts’ 75-store estate could struggle to generate enough cash to survive if stock fails to arrive for the festive period. It is currently offering 20% off everything on its website, which is believed to be a move to improve liquidity.

The managing director of one footwear brand that supplies Barratts said: “They aren’t talking to us at the moment, but we need clarity on what they are up to.”

Stephen Sidkin, partner at law firm Fox Williams, said suppliers could be left significantly out of pocket if Barratts does not secure the loan. It is not known whether Barratts has credit insurance.

Store count: chain now has 75 branches

He added: “Suppliers to Barratts who have not secured payment or retained title to goods supplied will be looking at this situation with trepidation. Trading to Christmas is one thing, but how confident will suppliers be when it comes to delivering against spring 14 orders?”

Bradford-based Barratts has filed for administration twice before, most recently in 2011, when more than 2,000 employees lost their jobs. Ziff bought 90 stores out of administration, saving around 1,200 roles.

Barratts declined to comment.

Scotch & Soda to launch men’s suits Young fashion brand Scotch & Soda will launch a range of men’s suits for autumn 14.

Called Scotch Atelier, it is understood the sub-brand will be debuted at Florence trade show Pitti Uomo in January next year.

It will be distributed in the UK by Shoreditch-based agency Zone Two, which already works with Scotch & Soda and its sister brands Maison Scotch, Maison Scotch Amsterdams Blauw, Scotch & Soda Amsterdams Blauw and Scotch Shrunk.

Zone Two confirmed the launch of Scotch Atelier, but neither the agency nor Scotch & Soda would provide any further information on the collection or its pricing.

It follows a year of expansion for the Dutch brand, which opened its third London store, a flagship on Carnaby Street, in August.

At the time Drapers revealed the business was priming itself for further retail expansion in cities such as Brighton, Edinburgh, Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham and Cardiff.

Scotch & Soda has 120 stockists in the UK and Republic of Ireland including House of Fraser, Asos and denim indie Utter Nutter in Romford, Essex.

PASSING JUDGEMENT The judges for the Drapers Awards 2013 held a hush-hush meeting last week to determine this year’s winners. The panel included Dan Coen (Zolfo Cooper), Richard Bradbury (ex-River Island), Rob Templeman (BRC), David Carter-Johnson (My Beautiful City), Mark NewtonJones (ex-Shop Direct), Isabel Cavill (Planet Retail), Meg Lustman (John Lewis), David Walker-Smith (Fenwick), Anne Horton (Tonic Retail), Maureen Hinton (Verdict Retail), Miles Gray (Miles Gray Associates), Stephen Sidkin (Fox Williams), Nick Bubb (Zeus Capital) and Terry Mansfield (Hearst). The awards will take place on November 21 at Old Billingsgate, London. Visit visit www.drapersawards.co.uk to book a place.

Shop Direct invests in Very as it posts profit

By Catherine Neilan

Shop Direct’s chief executive has heralded its first annual profits in 10 years as a milestone in the company’s turnaround, with Very singled out as “the one to focus on” in future.

The online and catalogue group, which also includes Isme, K&Co and Littlewoods, reported a pre-tax profit of £6.6m for the 12 months to June 30, a reversal in fortunes compared with the £57.7m loss made in 2012.

While £46.2m of last year’s loss came from exceptional items such as restructuring, redundancies and property write-downs, chief executive Alex Baldock highlighted the 1% growth in this year’s group sales as “evidence of some strong foundations that our future plans are built on”.

He added: “There is a clear growth story here, which is coming from our newer brands Very and Isme. Very is the one to focus on as that is the main growth driver, the one we are investing most heavily in

Right direction: Shop Direct launched Very sub-brand Definitions as part of its turnaround

Marigay McKee exits Harrods Harrods chief merchant Marigay McKee’s has completed her last week at the department store, as she plans to trek in Nepal and climb Mount Everest ahead of joining Saks Fifth Avenue as president in January. A Harrods spokeswoman told Drapers a decision on McKee’s replacement, including who would take on her responsibilities on an interim basis, was yet to be made.

Little Mistress in HoF exclusive Women’s young fashion label Little Mistress will launch an exclusive range in House of Fraser this month, in a bid to maximise its successful tie-up with the retailer. The 10-piece collection will comprise a range of dresses from maxi-gowns to cocktail dresses, with retail prices from £60 to £120. The range will be sold across House of Fraser stores and online from November 4.

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and the one that has delivered a very pleasing performance.”

Sales at Very and Isme were up 18% while Littlewoods and K&Co fell 7%. But Baldock said the company remained committed to the latter two, which had “millions of loyal customers who love them as we do, and who give a very high share of their wallet to them”.

As part of its £100m three-year turnaround plan Shop Direct is

ploughing investment into own brand, following the launch of Very sub-brand Definitions in September, which Baldock said had seen a “good response so far”. He added: “We have a good roster of own brands and have plenty of scope for expansion within those.”

The team is also in negotiations to bring in a number of “aspirational” third-party brands, although Baldock declined to name any.

Jumpers will be ‘this year’s onesie’

By Catherine Neilan

Retailers are banking on kitsch jumpers to take on the mantle from the onesie as this year’s Christmas must-have item.

Last year the onesie was one of the most talked about Christmas pieces, with Debenhams, Asda and Primark among those to sell out.

Marks & Spencer, New Look and John Lewis also saw 2012 onesie sales skyrocket compared with the year before.

This year, high street retailers including John Lewis and Debenhams told Drapers they are backing the trend for Christmas jumpers with large motifs of animals or kitsch patterns.

John Lewis head of womenswear Jo Hooper said she was still expecting good things from onesies,

News in brief

Kitsch knit: John Lewis expects high demand for its Christmas jumpers

but this year anticipated kitsch jumpers would be more in demand. “[The trend] has developed quite a lot from last year, so we are seeing lots of jumpers with snowflakes or little hearts, animals such as robins and reindeers. It was around last

year but we are revving it up this year and giving it a bit more of that kitschy sense of humour.”

Debenhams group trading director Suzanne Harlow agreed: “This year it is all about anything with animals, but all big print.”

The department store’s chief executive Michael Sharp added that while the onesie was “still there”, novelty jumpers were taking over as the “daytime version of the onesie”.

Sainsbury’s head of Tu James Brown said the supermarket was backing Christmas jumpers that have been designed by staff in a company competition.

“Going into Christmas we have a lot of novelty coming through and Christmas jumpers are big for us, particularly as our colleagues will be able to wear them in store,” he said.

Hourly delivery slots at Oasis Oasis has launched a timed delivery service enabling UK customers to select hourly slots when ordering online. The womenswear retailer has partnered with delivery firm Shutl to integrate the service as part of its etail strategy, which also includes a same-day delivery service. Hourly slots are free on orders of more than £100.

BHS attracts acquisition interest Sir Philip Green’s department store chain BHS is being eyed up by South African billionaire Christo Wiese. Wiese has teamed up with former Asda chief executive Andy Bond to help him scope out potential acquisitions.

New stores for Carnaby Street Two retailers have signed for stores on London’s Carnaby Street. US women’s young fashion retailer Brandy Melville will open its second UK store in a 3,800 sq ft unit at Foubert’s Place. Adidas Originals has also taken a unit on Foubert’s Place.

Brandy Melville was represented by KLM Property and Jones Lang LaSalle acted for Adidas Original.

Bolongaro Trevor seeks funding Menswear and womenswear brand Bolongaro Trevor is seeking a £2m investment as it bids to increase its store portfolio. The label has appointed deVere UK to invite a selection of the financial adviser’s high net-worth investors to presentations next month about the brand. Bolongaro Trevor, which has six stores, hopes to open 50 over the next five years.

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News

supermarkets in rates delay bonus The Government’s decision to postpone the next business rates revaluation will benefit supermarkets to the tune of £1.3bn at the expense of smaller fashion retailers, bill Grimsey told the business, Innovation and Skills Select Committee on Tuesday.

The former Wickes DIY boss said action was urgently needed, claiming 20,000 retailers were at risk of failure as a result of the delay in tackling business rates.

He said the UK’s four biggest supermarkets, Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Asda and morrisons – whose overall rates payments would have increased in 2015 – would save £1.3bn from the postponement.

However, parliamentary under secretary of state at the Department for Communities and Local Government brandon Lewis defended the delay, saying the retail sector as a whole would have lost out if the revaluation had gone ahead.

Johnstons of elgin recruits new boss Simon Cotton has been appointed chief executive of Scottish cashmere and woollen manufacturer Johnstons of elgin.

Cotton, who starts his new role next week, previously worked as a divisional managing director at Swiss industrial manufacturing conglomerate Franke.

He will replace group managing director James Dracup, who left in April and is now managing director of mbA Yarns.

Chris Gaffney, who stepped into Dracup’s role on an interim basis, will return to his role as financial director. meanwhile, executive director James Sugden has taken a nonexecutive role at Johnstons of elgin this month, scaling back his responsibilities as part of his progression towards retirement.

The changes come after a “difficult year” according to Gaffney. Johnstons of elgin made a pre-tax loss of £1.8m in the 2012 calendar year, falling from a profit of £2.6m in 2011.

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Drapers / November 2 2013

it’s All chAnge At the Dressing room

Womenswear retailer The Dressing Room in St Albans has overhauled its shop front and website and created a new logo.

The store, crowned Drapers’ number one Inspiring Indie for 2013, unveiled the revamp last week. The redesigned website, which has improved functionality, will go live next week.

Fashion retailers look healthier as numbers at risk of closure decline By emily norval

The level of financial distress among UK fashion retailers appears to be reducing, according to research by corporate risk firm begbies Traynor.

Data seen exclusively by Drapers shows that year on year the proportion of clothing, footwear and leather goods retail businesses classified as high risk has dropped from 65%, or 6,789, in the third quarter of last year to 60%, or 5,512 now. begbies Traynor measures risk through ‘red flags’ such as debt or deterioration in financial ratios.

However, this comes as the total number of fashion, footwear and leather goods retailers dropped 12% over the past year, from 10,411 to 9,145, with closures almost entirely affecting small and medium-sized retailers with a turnover of less than €50m (£43m). The number of larger retailers trading was broadly flat. overall, large fashion retailers are now healthier, with the number at risk dropping 12% in the past three months, compared with a 1% drop for their smaller counterparts.

While welcoming the news as a potential sign of recovery in the sector, Julie Palmer, partner at

Running the risk: young fashion chain Republic fell into administration in February

begbies Traynor, warned that smaller retailers were still vulnerable to issues such as “late payments and higher costs of funding”.

The recent government consultation on late payments was a welcome step as a result, she said.

Alistair Dickson, another partner at begbies Traynor, added that while the market appeared to be improving, the next quarter could prove challenging.

“It’s a healthier market but I’d raise concerns. There are fewer small- and medium-sized retailers

now because others have closed.

This gives those remaining more of the market share when it comes to consumer spending, but it may not be sustainable.”

Dickson said a rise in successful payment protection insurance claims had created an anomaly in spending as consumers suddenly have some extra disposable cash, but he warned this could be a short-lived trend: “The next quarter will counteract the activity we’re seeing now as spending will go down.”

Debenhams sees own labels as key to growth By catherine neilan

Debenhams is looking to “bridge the gap in sales density” between its own brands and third-party labels, by increasing its own-brand teams and testing a series of initiatives.

The department store business last week revealed it recorded a 2.7% dip in pre-tax profits to £154m despite growing like-for-likes 2% in the year to August 31. It blamed challenging weather conditions in the first half for much of the decline, as well as exceptional costs such as the £25m oxford Street revamp.

Despite this the business said it was investing for future growth, and was looking to woo both consumers and new brand partners in future.

Chief executive michael Sharp said: “Typically in womenswear, concessions get double the sales density that our own brands get, so the question is how do you bridge that gap? We have done some trials and what we have seen has been very encouraging.”

The most successful move so far has been to double the buying and merchandising teams behind own brands such as Principles and red Herring to bring “greater focus on product development”.

“So far we have been able to bridge 15% of that gap by investing in our buying and merchandising resources,” Sharp said.

Debenhams is also trialling an

Sales picking up pace at Hotter British footwear business Hotter has doubled its turnover in the past four years, with revenues for 2012 growing 9% to £74.9m. Underlying profits were up 16% for 2012, with Hotter opening 21 standalone stores in the UK last year, bringing its total to 52. Overseas sales, consisting of mail order and online, were up 44% in the same period.

Kardashians set Lipsy record Women’s young fashion brand Lipsy set a record for online sales last week after the launch of the autumn 13 Kardashian Kollection.

The brand, owned by US TV stars Kim and Khloe Kardashian, launched at 10am on October 24 and by 4pm Lipsy had smashed its record for daily online sales, with a number of items selling out.

Staff boost: Debenhams doubled own-brand teams for Principles and Red Herring

increase in dedicated staff for ownbrand areas in 16 stores to see if there is any impact on sales. “Those results are inconclusive, so we will continue with those trials and make our decisions in January,” he said.

The business is also making better use of data to send out more bespoke marketing emails, Sharp said. Simultaneously it has trialled new delivery charges – raising the threshold for free delivery to £50 from £30 and offering a premium next-day delivery for a £5.99 fee – to make fulfilment more cost effective.

Debenhams group trading director Suzanne Harlow said the

new-look oxford Street store, which is due to be completed early next year, would act as a calling card to attract new brands over the next two to three years.

Harlow declined to name brands on her wish list but said they would be more aspirational, “bridging the gap between us and House of Fraser, although I think HoF will remain slightly more premium.”

“Discussions [with brands] have not begun because we feel people have really got to see it in the flesh, but we think people will start to contact us when they do,” Sharp added. “It will change perceptions.”

DV8 brings two stores across Irish Sea Irish young fashion retailer Dv8 opened its first store in Wales this week ahead of wider expansion in the UK. The menswear and womenswear chain, which has more than 30 stores across Northern Ireland and the republic of Ireland, launched in Cardiff ’s St David’s shopping centre on october 26.

The retailer will open its first english store at the end of this month, at the Grand Arcade shopping centre in Wigan.

News in brief

A spokesman for Dv8 said: “There will be a possibility of other sites in the future but Dv8 will see how it trades with the two new stores.”

Dv8 launched in 1994. As well as its own label it stocks brands including Lipsy, Fred Perry, Criminal Damage and Jack & Jones.

Its new stores will carry a similar product offering to those in Ireland.

The retailer will compete in the same market as JD’s bank chain and Sports Direct-owned republic.

New in town: DV8’s first store in Wales opened in St David’s centre last month

Yr gets interactive at Topshop Print specialist Yr launched interactive ‘touch pods’ in Topman’s Oxford Street store this week, enabling customers to design bespoke clothing. Topman has introduced new garments to Yr’s digital T-shirt printing process, including vests, sweaters and scarves. Prices start from £28.

Young Ideas in Ashbourne move Drapers Independent Awards finalist Young Ideas has moved into a 2,500 sq ft store in a refurbished 17th-century coaching inn on St John Street in Ashbourne, Derbyshire.

The store, across the street from its previous site, has a dedicated menswear area, following the original Derby store’s addition of menswear earlier this season.

Hilfiger reveals succession plan Fred Ghering, chief executive of Tommy Hilfiger, is to be succeeded

by Daniel Grieder by the end of the 2014 financial year. Ghering, who has served as chief executive since 2006, will work part-time as chairman of Tommy Hilfiger and adviser to Grieder. Grieder is currently chief executive of the European division of Tommy Hilfiger’s parent company PVH. Bon voyage for Newton-Jones Former Shop Direct Group chief executive Mark Newton-Jones is setting sail across the Atlantic on November 25 to raise money for charities Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust and Children with Cancer UK. As part of annual race ARC, Newton-Jones will spend 17 days at sea covering 2,800 nautical miles.

Visit uk.virginmoneygiving.com/ MarkNewtonJones to sponsor him.

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News

London Designer Outlet hits early footfall goals

By Jill Geoghegan

retailers saw a successful launch of London’s first designer outlet centre, with more than 21,500 shoppers visiting on the first day.

About 86,000 people visited London Designer outlet in Wembley on its first four days of trading.

Developer Quintain has forecast 8 million visitors a year and claimed a number of fashion retailers had beaten their opening sales targets.

Half of the centre’s 70 stores launched at the 350,000 sq ft development last week (october 24), with the remainder due to open in the spring. There will also be 15 restaurants and a cinema complex.

The centre is now just over 80% let, with more fashion retailers in discussions about taking units. It is thought these will be in line with the existing mix of high street names such as marks & Spencer and Gap, alongside young fashion retailers such as Superdry.

Kenny edwards, store manager at the Nike outlet shop, said the chance to open in a London outlet centre was “too good to pass up”.

Wembley way: the 350,000 sq ft complex is located next to the football stadium

“You would never know this was a discount shop. We have full control of the presentation and nothing about the technology of the product is lost. We expect the store to do amazingly well in the run-up to Christmas; given the location the potential is limitless,” he said.

Aldo manfreda, store manager at underwear retailer björn borg, agreed. “There is a lot of sympathy between the stores and management as everyone is tied to the success of everyone else; we’re all working together to make it work. The store’s position beside the stadium should ensure good footfall and the finish of the development is key.”

James Saunders, chief operating officer at Quintain, said: “In the coming weeks and months we have england games, NFL matches and The X Factor finals taking place [at Wembley]. It’s our opportunity to harness those different audiences.”

He added it would also serve local residents, noting “the catchment area is very big and was poorly served in terms of retail”.

Coco de Mer bets on growth after cash boost

By Ben Cooper

Javelin lands store in former puB

Young fashion retailer Javelin has opened its relocated Sudbury store at 2 Friars Street in the Suffolk town. The 1,076 sq ft shop occupies a 15th-century pub and stocks brands including Little Mistress and Superdry. Javelin also has a Sudbury outlet store and a Bury St Edmunds flagship.

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Drapers / November 2 2013

Lingerie retailer Coco de mer is undergoing a revamp as part of major investment from owner Lovehoney that aims to grow its customer base and expand overseas.

Coco de mer’s standalone store on monmouth Street in Covent Garden is being refurbished this week following a three-month review of the business carried out earlier in the year.

As part of the investment by sex toy etailer Lovehoney, which bought Coco de mer in 2011, former Arcadia brand director and retail consultant Jackie Naghten has been appointed as managing director.

Louise brassey, who has previously worked with Chanel, burton Group and Arcadia, has taken over as marketing director.

Naghten said on top of the store revamp, “significant investment” was going into boosting the brand’s

Smalls fortunes: overseas growth plans

online retail presence, with the retailer planning to relaunch its website next year. Plans for a new store are also being drawn up, with international expansion likely.

Naghten said: “Next year we will think about where the new store will be. The real opportunity is to become a global brand; we have a lot of international customers already through the website.”

Lustman vows to take John Lewis to the top

By Catherine neilan

meg Lustman has said she will focus on building John Lewis’s fashion categories into market leaders when she joins the business next week.

Lustman, who stepped down from her managing director role at Warehouse in February, is taking on a nine-month contract at the department store, starting from November 4. She will be responsible for overseeing all of John Lewis’s fashion offer, including recently launched own brand Kin and the Somerset by Alice Temperley range.

Lustman told Drapers her priority was to adopt “the overall John Lewis aspiration to have market leadership across categories”.

She added: “[For] the area I’m inheriting that’s not the case, so that will be my focus. I think there are real opportunities there.” earlier this year, managing director Andy Street said he was looking to double John Lewis’s fashion market share. At present the retailer is 17th in both womenswear and menswear, categories in which it is expected to have shares of 2.1% and 1.8% respectively by the end of the year, according to verdict retail.

Lustman said the move had “come about quite quickly”, with

Warm reception: brand in stockist talks

snoodyDo is off to a head start

Teaming up: Meg Lustman (inset) and Somerset by Alice Temperley

John Lewis needing an experienced fashion hand to work under newly promoted buying and brand director Paula Nickolds, who comes from a homeware background. Nickolds took on the role in September, replacing Peter ruis, who left to join Jigsaw as chief executive.

Lustman replaces matt mcCormack, who left in July to move to his native Australia to run denim retailer Just Jeans.

“I’ll be giving Paula support and providing leadership for John Lewis’s very competent fashion team. In a time of change it is important to create stability,” Lustman said.

She added that the contract could be extended to a permanent role if both sides are happy at the end of the first nine months.

“I need to make sure before going into another large organisation that it’s right,” Lustman said.

She will take up her new role nine months after leaving Warehouse, where she had been managing director since 2009.

She said her exit was unconnected to the restructure of parent company Aurora Fashions, noting she had “taken Warehouse as far as I could” and was looking for “greater flexibility” in her working life.

Knitted accessories brand SnoodyDo hopes to secure 100 stockists by the end of the year after soft launching for autumn 13.

Following this month’s debut range, which includes lambswool and cashmere hats, scarves and gloves, SnoodyDo has hired five UK and Irish agents and is in talks with a string of potential stockists.

These are understood to include a number of major department stores such as Debenhams, John Lewis and House of Fraser, as well as independent retailers.

Speaking to Drapers, SnoodyDo sales director Steve brewer said it aimed to sign 100 accounts by the end of 2013, after launching with 35.

“The strategy is to get a foothold in the UK market and really get our presence out there,” he said.

The company is also preparing for the February launch of its spring 14 collection.

Wholesale prices start at £8.20 for a bobble hat and £10.60 for a scarf, with a 2.7 mark-up.

Permira backing Dr Martens’ global ambitions Dr martens’ new owner, private equity firm Permira, said it would back further international expansion after agreeing a £300m takeover deal.

The footwear brand, which operates in 63 countries, will continue to implement its global strategy with the “full support” of Permira, which also owns Hugo boss and New Look.

Dr martens chief executive David Suddens told Drapers its plans remained “the same as before” and it would keep targeting key markets to fuel growth.

Current model: Agyness Deyn has a collaborative range with Dr Martens

“The management has a strategy and we are sticking to it. We have been in China for four years and it’s a big growth market for us.

We are not currently in India but we will move into that market in due course,” he said.

Dr martens will also push its formal range more widely.

“There is a lot of potential with our refined shoe collection,” Suddens said. “We are targeting consumers who used to wear our boots when they were younger but who now need a more formal shoe with an individual twist.”

one source said Permira was interested in Dr martens’ existing “strong global potential”, adding that it would look to “accelerate the brand on a global scale”.

The deal, in which Permira will acquire r Griggs Group, owner and licensee of Dr martens, is expected to complete in January. The firm was first put up for sale in February 2012, but the owners took it off the market that summer after bidders failed to meet the asking price.

Dr martens has 26 standalone stores, 38 franchises and about 1,900 stockists worldwide.

November 2 2013 /

Drapers

7

HERE & THERE

q HE GAVE HIS ALL TO BENTALLS Family, friends, colleagues past and present, suppliers and other admirers crowded into a pub in Kingston last Friday to raise a glass or six to John Pattison (second from right), who left Bentalls this week after 20 years’ service as menswear buyer at the store. We wish him and his wife Kate all the best in his well-deserved retirement.

p JEFFERY-WEST BITES INTO THE BIG APPLE UK footwear brand JefferyWest took over New York with a bash to launch its first store on Christopher Street. Burlesque dancers and rum cocktails kept the party going at the Number 8 Club in Greenwich Village. The brand’s Guy West (left) and Mark Jeffery (right) were joined by actor Monroe Robertson and singer Tony Bennett.

q WILD THINGS Etailer Pretty Little Thing hosted a preview of its latest collection at central London hot spot Disco. The brand’s managing directors Umar Kamani (pictured left with DJ and stylist Alexis Knox) and Adam Kamani (below, with TV presenter Sarah Jane Crawford) joined guests on the dancefloor to shake their stuff to music

by DJ Goldierocks.

OFF THE RECORD The Drapers social whirl

p IT’S ALL IN THE JEANS Womenswear boutique Okeefe in Esher, Surrey, held an event to launch the new range from denim label Ida, at which the brand’s designer and self-titled jean queen Donna Ida Thornton made an appearance.

Store owner Janine O’Keefe joined Ida Thornton for a trend talk, and the pair handed out styling tips to customers.

Pictured are Janine O’Keefe, Chris van Scheltinga from Chiltern Street Studios, and Donna Ida Thornton.

8

Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

q BARGAIN HUNTERS Eager shoppers descended on the London Designer Outlet when the Wembley shopping centre launched last Thursday. Retailers including Nike, H&M and Gap opened their cut-price shops as bargain hunters were treated to Bollywood dance routines from performing arts company Nutkhut. Max James, chief executive of landlord Quintain, watched as Brent council’s Councillor Muhammed Butt cut the ribbon.

RED WING TAKES OFF US footwear brand Red Wing flung open the doors to its first UK flagship store, a joint venture with American Classics, on London’s Newburgh Street and was instantly mobbed by well-wishers, including a random sighting of ex-footballer Ian Wright.

A cake in the shape of the brand’s iconic boots drew in more revellers than the store could contain and they spilled out along the streets.

Ø

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OPINION

Talking Shop

‘Unreasonable demands put a strain on indies’

Comments from Drapersonline.com MOST READ Cocosa to close down Dr Martens sold for £300m Marks & Spencer womenswear director departs Dr Martens deal rumoured to be imminent Selfridges boosts menswear team with trio of hires Tesco showcases F&F aspirations in London store

MOST COMMENTED

Robbie Williams’ Farrell brand ceases trading How central are returns to your multichannel strategy?

On the radar – Howes & Baum The Drapers Awards: Who is your favourite fashion retailer of 2013?

Comments from Drapersonline.com ‘How central are returns to your multichannel strategy?’ – I would echo all of the points in this article.

Too many retailers are focusing on optimising for sales and not for profit.

And as they seek to grow online and international sales, their return rates will increase as will the associated costs. In speaking with retailers, many of them are beginning to realise that they need to take action. Central to this is a fundamental change in customer behaviour. It has never been easier for customers to buy anytime, anywhere, meaning to them the point of sale is no longer when they purchase, but when they actually decide to keep something.

Ellie Turner

A

lthough in business for more than 46 years, we are a singlelocation boutique, and so our buying power cannot rival a multi-store independent, but sometimes this is difficult to explain to a supplier who is only looking for growth. We all need growth, but in these difficult times this is not always possible.

If we don’t reach minimums, some suppliers try to curtail us putting product online, although in law there is nothing to stop us.

They also sometimes want hefty deposits on orders. Surely an order not quite meeting the minimum is better than no order at all? A retailer buying what it

Helene Rapaport

Owner of designer womenswear indie Bernard Boutique in Esher, Surrey

feels it can sell and pay for might return the following season, but when forced to overbuy it can only have an adverse effect.

Retailers have to buy pre and mainline collections and some suppliers demand representation

of both. Having to buy both not only forces our budgets and travelling costs up but leaves us with no space for new designers.

Thankfully there are some agents who represent great designers that do not impose these strict minimums, and this gives the brands they carry the opportunity to be showcased in independent stores.

We also have to contend with websites that are continually discounting.

But despite all this, my recent experiences with many of our suppliers were conducted with genuine warmth and I’ve had continued support from them, which is why I still love what I do.

Talking Business

‘Suppliers can do little to stop etail discounts’

T

here has been a great deal of anguish among bricks-andmortar retailers over etailers’ discounting practices.

Traditional boutiques have accused etailers of reckless discounting. A number of my design clients have been at the sharp end of some choice words from shops, demanding they stop supplying certain well-known etailers who seem intent on riding a coach and horses through the industry standard margin.

What, if anything, can suppliers do to level the playing field between their traditional retailers and the etailers?

In a parallel universe calibrated

Tim O’Callaghan

Partner at law firm Druces incorporating Arnold Fooks Chadwick

to the desires of suppliers, they would be able to enforce a recommended retail price, and set out provisions (and even perhaps penalties) to prevent discounting.

Unfortunately, EU competition law provides little solace to the

supplier wanting to set minimum prices. In fact, it makes any effort to do such a thing unlawful, the practice known as retail price maintenance.

To engage in retail price maintenance will render the entire supply agreement that contains such a clause as void and unenforceable and, more alarming in recent years, the OFT may impose a fine; which, as the sellers of replica football kits discovered a few years ago, can be as much as £18.6m.

Call it the ‘free market economy’ but there is very little suppliers can do to assist their traditional retailers against merciless etailer discounts.

Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com. All Drapers emails follow the style of firstname.surname@emap.com.

All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 2763 Associate Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson, Ben Cooper COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305, Rebecca Soni, 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 2962 Classified Sales Executive Dawn O’Brien, 2959 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Account Director Peter Bruce-Smythe, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Campaign Marketing Executive Kam Sohi, 2870 Head of Brand Hayley Ward, 4276 Production Controller David Ly, 2687 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705.

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10

Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

EDITOR’S COMMENT

‘M&S needs a happy ending to its winter fairytale’

I

t was still the last week of October but already fake snowflakes brushed the red velvet sofa in The May Fair Hotel lounge in London, the set for a make-believe Mad Hatter’s Tea Party twinkling under fairy lights.

December 25 was two months away, but Marks & Spencer was determined to make it feel like Christmas.

The occasion was a press preview of M&S’s Christmas ad campaign. The hotel lounge made an impact in itself; as journalists arrived, characters from Alice in Wonderland would try to lure them – calling each journalist Alice – to have “tea”. We were expecting a screen to appear to show the ad but no, we were ushered into a private cinema room, with proper comfy armchairs to enjoy the film.

M&S pulled out all the stops before the ad was even shown. And when Patrick BousquetChavanne, executive director of marketing and business development, addressed the audience, you could see why. He described retailers’ unveiling of their Christmas campaigns as a “race” to the consumer.

He said that when M&S debuts its ad, the occasion “marks the start of the Christmas period”. Christmas has always been the most important trading period for fashion retailers, but this year it feels even more crucial.

M&S isn’t the only retailer to make a fuss of its Christmas ad. John Lewis will be holding a press dinner (yes, dinner) next week at One

LETTER TO THE EDITOR It’s great to see Eric Musgrave turning his attention to sourcing (Editor’s Comment, October 19).

He quotes the BBC’s File on Four claim that “able-bodied workers” in Bangladesh can’t find new jobs. This is hard to square with Bangladeshi apparel exports running 24% up on 2012 and employers still complaining about a labour shortage.

Eric worries that Western companies’ policing of factories might be “a step back to colonial days”. There’s a tsunami

Ana Santi

Deputy editor, Drapers ana.santi@emap.com

Aldwych hotel to unveil its creation. I think the department store will have a thing or two to say about which retailer’s ad campaign – M&S or John Lewis – marks the start of Christmas.

Surely John Lewis has held that crown for the past two years.

But back to M&S. Its Christmas ad features model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in the lead role, frolicking through a series of fairytales – Alice in Wonderland, The Wizard of Oz, Aladdin and Little Red Riding Hood – and supported by a cast of David Gandy and Helena Bonham-Carter. It is well-executed, looks great and is fun to watch. No John Lewis tear-jerker. But the interesting bit for me came when, halfway through Huntington-Whiteley’s Dorothy incarnation, my neighbour suddenly whispered: “I love that dress!” HuntingtonWhiteley may dazzle in her lingerie line,

of outrage flooding every European and North American clothing retailer and brand buying from Bangladesh.

Outraged Western consumers, just like Bangladesh workers, worry a lot more that the Bangladesh government, after a decade of fires and factory collapses, won’t sort the mess out without such policing. That means a credible threat of action from Western governments too.

In July, the US withdrew an import duty concession on some Bangladeshi goods, which it won’t restore unless Bangladesh meets a clear timetable for improving human rights in garment

Bonham-Carter may make you giggle and Gandy will charm the ladies, but M&S needs shoppers to buy the clothes.

With that in mind, the questions from journalists about Huntington-Whiteley’s suitability as an M&S ambassador (she doesn’t fit the core demographic) came as no surprise. But Bousquet-Chavanne was quick to the retailer’s defence, pointing out that the model’s lingerie line for Autograph is one of its best-selling lines to date. “She’s the face of a universal line,” he said. “I don’t think about age”.

The other point he could have made is that this campaign is about fantasy; the strapline is Believe in Magic & Sparkle. In a fantasy world, no one wants to stare at their stressed-out, midweek self. You want to see yourself in Rosie or David or Helena. It’s more fun.

But the clothes still need to sell and the reason this Christmas is so vital to M&S is that it features the much-hyped autumn 13 collection. Next Tuesday, M&S will reveal its half-year results, but the period will only include a few weeks of trading for the latest range. Reports this week suggest M&S’s overall clothing market share was flat in the 24 weeks to the end of September. The decline of 0.2% in womenswear was an improvement on the 0.5% fall in the previous period.

These figures, while encouraging, certainly don’t suggest a turnaround just yet. M&S will need all the Christmas magic it can get.

factories. The concession wouldn’t have affected the country’s garment industry, which has to pay the same duty on its US exports as China. And now it’s been suspended for every country, because the US can’t decide if it can afford it.

But the threat of being the only country barred from the concession is forcing rapid action from Bangladesh’s usually lackadaisical legislators.

By contrast, the EU waives over €1bn a year in import duty on Bangladesh.

That’s money Bangladesh gets that Indian, Vietnamese, Indonesian and Sri Lankan workers don’t.

Bangladesh’s government and factory owners would show a great deal more urgency in sorting themselves out if the EU made it clear that our taxes will stop subsidising the country’s garment makers unless it meets clear deadlines – say midnight on June 30, 2014 – for meeting human rights targets. They might show even more urgency if the EU threatened to move that subsidy to factory owners in countries less contemptuous of their workers’ safety.

Michael Flanagan, chief executive, Clothesource

NOVEMBER 2 2013 /

Drapers

11

FASHION INDEX

Dan Coen

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

T

esco last week unveiled its ambition to be the world’s leading retailer for affordable fashion. The supermarket giant is hoping its F&F range, which is sold in 450 UK Tesco stores and 16 countries worldwide, can compete with the likes of H&M, Primark and George at Asda by bolstering the brand’s presence in store and attracting new online customers at the same time.

Tesco’s decision to grow F&F in this way is just another example of its ability to attract new customers and encourage loyalty by diversifying its business model in a clever way. We’ve seen this already with its acquisition of restaurant chain Giraffe back in March and the Harris + Hoole coffee shops last year.

There are obvious strategic benefits to this approach.

Tesco is clearly hoping the addition of family-friendly offerings like these will not only help to draw in the crowds, but also keep them there.

By diversifying in this way, the retailer is tackling its biggest challenge head on, because it will still need to change the public’s perception of Tesco solely as a supermarket brand – especially when it comes to fashion.

Tesco is already making great strides in this regard, having just opened its first dedicated F&F womenswear shop-in-shop in its West Kensington store this week.

It seems the gamble has paid off, since the new store has real high street appeal, but with branding and imagery that feel upmarket.

Building a fashion empire in this way makes good business sense, as this measured approach to diversification can deliver a number of very important benefits for the company. After all, whether it is opening coffee shops, restaurants or clothing outlets, this strategy will enable Tesco to extract value from its property portfolio, boost customer engagement and establish itself as part of the fabric of consumers’ everyday lives.

Of course, there is bound to be a certain surprise factor, and perhaps some snobbery, as Tesco tries to transform F&F into a competitive fashion label, but that’s no bad thing.

By staying this course and continuing to offer the products consumers want, at a price they can afford, Tesco will be able to build its reputation as a brand that Britons can trust – for their cardigans as well as their carrots.

12

Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 43 – October 21 to 27, 2013

-4.8%

-5.6% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

More unsettled weather is likely to have had an impact on the Experian Footfall National Retail Index. From Friday, severe weather warnings were being issued across the country for storms on Sunday night. Subsequently, we saw a 5.2% increase in visitors on Sunday, perhaps in preparation for this. Northern Ireland was the only region to benefit from a year-on-year increase. All other regions experienced a decline with the West Midlands showing the greatest, down 11.8%.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending October 27, 2013

-6.7% -7.35% Total fashion

Clothing

-12.1% Footwear

Trade was negatively impacted in many parts of the country by the later timing of half-term holidays, with fashion and home-related stores badly hit. Fashion’s woes continued with sales down for the fifth time out of the last six weeks.

For more information, email BDO’s Don Williams at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

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The most applied for jobs 1. Design 8.1% 2. Production 6.3% DUBLIN 205%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

3. Merchandising 6.1% 4. Sales 5.9% 5. Buying 4.4%

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‘Push into fashion will broaden Tesco’s appeal’

indicator

Autumn kidswear What’s selling now?

0-4 yEARS

5-12 yEARS

Nickey Thrussell Owner, Elias & Grace in Primrose Hill, north London

Jane Davison Manager, Elfin Childrenswear in Yarm, North Yorkshire

“Petit Bateau’s sleep suits (retailing from £10) are proving popular and gift items from Chloé are selling really well too. The brand’s bibs and babygros seem to be selling best, retailing from £40 upwards.”

“Mayoral is our number one brand. It always does a quirky range that is different to what’s available on the high street. We’ve been doing very well with the soft-knit tunic dress with rabbit motif (£39). Catimini’s Spirit City patterned dress (£56) with matching leggings has also sold very well.”

Helena Wong Owner, Cachet Kids in Ashford, Middlesex

Nickie Philipson-Stow Owner, The Orange Pig in Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire

“We do very well with Mayoral. The brand’s dress range (£30 to £40) continues to sell strongly. We also do well with Spanish brand Miranda. We sell a lot of its traditional-style dresses (£35 to £39.99).”

“Mayoral is our strongest brand. The designs are very good and quite inexpensive. We’re doing very well with the purples in the range. The check skirt (£25), check dress (£40) and the knitted cardigan (£26) have all been selling well.”

Tracey Shelvey Owner, Kids Cavern in Liverpool “Boss Kids has a selection of brightly coloured padded coats (£99) which are selling really well for the boys. We’re also doing really well with the dresses from Oilily (from £40) which are going well for the girls. Emile et Rose is another brand we’re selling a lot of. Grandmas seem to like purchasing the outfit sets (£28 to £60).”

Rika Swann Owner, Kiki Sams in Oundle, Northamptonshire “We do very well with Boboli. It’s a little bit different to the norm. The range has a lot of bright colours and is great quality. We’ve been doing well with the dresses (£43) and tunic tops (£19.75) for girls and jumpers for boys (£27). Esprit T-shirts from the Disney collection have also been popular.”

Mayoral

Yvonne Watson Manager, Ciani in Moira, Northern Ireland

Joel Lever Owner, Mon Amie Studios in Prestwich, Manchester

“Absorba/Confetti has been our strongest-selling brand over the past week. Its dresses (£35 to £45) and tights (£16 to £19.50) in particular are popular with customers. We’ve been selling lots of reds and plums, all of those pretty autumnal colours.”

“Mayoral has been excellent for us. It is very competitively priced and always on trend. We’ve done very well with the faux fur-trimmed winter coat (£50). We stocked all four colours and they’ve all sold. Monnalisa is one of our top-end brands and has a big following. The raised flower, neoprene dress (£125) has been fantastic.”

Gillian Franks Manager, Pixie in Hale, Cheshire “The My First Levi’s jeans (£35) are our bestsellers.

They come in a little pack and are doing really well.

We’ve also been doing well with No Added Sugar.

The dresses (from £50) have sold well for girls and the tops (£23) and trousers (£32) are strong sellers for boys. The Liberty-print sleep suits (£34) from Petit Bateau have been popular in the last week.”

Anne Marie Sharp Owner, Cowboys & Angels in West Kirby, Wirral

Mandy Colgan Owner, Schuffs Kidz in Boothstown, Manchester “Kate Mack is always a good seller. One of the most popular items has been the grey dress with coloured flower edging (£63.95). We’ve sold out of that and we’ve had a lot of phone calls asking when it will be back in stock.”

Oilily

Kathy White Owner, Tots Boutique in Chiswick, west London

“No Added Sugar’s Classics range of tops (£18) and bottoms (£22) are selling well, especially the purple colours for girls. Lilly & Sid is another brand that has done well. Its babygros and little playsuits (£20 to £30) – in red especially – are very popular.”

“Name It has been going well. The dresses are selling strongly, and the Palukka Knit Spencer in maroon (£23) has been very popular. They’re well priced and great quality. We’re yet to see the outerwear start really selling. It’s still too warm.”

Lynn Cain Store manager, Sidi & Tim in Ormskirk, Lancashire “Oilily skirts and dresses (£50 to £60) have been selling like hotcakes in the last week. Mayoral’s tunics and leggings set (£30) has also sold really well. For both brands the red and navy colours have been most popular, which is probably due to Christmas coming up.”

Hayley Girardier Owner, Jellyrolls in Leicester

Angel Face

Monnalisa

“Our bestseller has been a new brand we’ve started stocking called Angel Face. It’s a girls’ range doing great skirts and dresses. We’ve done well with the dark grey, tutu-style skirt (£54).”

November 2 2013 /

Drapers

13

ECOMMErCE

Multichannel focus

London’s shops lack technology; A Hume suits up with iPads; and Armani’s new site goes live Words by KEELY STOCKER

London retailers failing to use new technologies Only 14% of retailers on Oxford Street and Regent Street offer in-store Wi-Fi, despite more than half of consumers saying they are more likely to shop with a retailer that embraces technology, according to a report by software provider Omnico.

The report, which audited more than 90 retailers, also found the most commonly used technology by retailers was click-and-collect (44%), followed by video screens in store windows (35%).

While the average number of technologies deployed by retailers was two, both John Lewis and Nike, who were at the top of the list in terms of digital innovations among fashion retailers, have six or more customer-facing technologies.

Despite high footfall and the challenge of reducing queues, just 9% of the streets’ retailers had interactive in-store kiosks offering access to their full collections.

44

35

OxfOrd and rEgEnt strEEt rEtailErs using in-stOrE tEChnOlOgy 30

19 14

14 9

% Order online, pick-up in store Video screens in the shop window Order in store for home delivery Order in store for delivery to another store Customer Wi-Fi Advert for social media interaction Interactive kiosks

14

Drapers / November 2 2013

A hume stores add ipads to jog shoppers’ memories Independent countrywear retailer A Hume has introduced iPads into both of its stores in Kelso, Scotland, following customer feedback.

The retailer, whose customers are aged from mid-40s to early 60s, decided to launch the iPads after staff said many shoppers were coming in and requesting a product they had seen on the website.

James Abbott, digital marketing and development manager, says: “Customers were coming into the stores and while they couldn’t remember the exact product they had seen online, they could remember their customer journey on the site. The iPads not only allow our staff to give better customer service, they can also give customers the chance to see the stories behind the brands with online content and videos.”

Abbott says research shows that customers are shopping both online for convenience but also in store when they are in the area.

ArmAni revAmps site with curAted content Giorgio Armani has relaunched its website as it aims to become a major contender in the luxury ecommerce sector. A new section covering events, entitled Armani Live, will be curated by a range of industry insiders. The section kicks off with Tim Blanks, editor-at-large of Style.com, reporting on the launch of the new site in New York.

As well as a fresh design, the site has a greater number of content areas. It will cover everything from fashion shows and lifestyle, and also includes details on the brand’s made-to-measure service and a store locator. The site is optimised for mobile. www.armani.com

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THE DRAPERS INTERVIEW I JOHN MArQUIS

T

he imposing 19th-century facade of department store De Gruchy dominates King Street, the high street of Jersey’s only town, St Helier. Trading for more than 200 years since 1810, three years before Debenhams set up shop and a whole 99 years before Selfridges threw open its doors, today the store and its 220 staff remain central to retail life on an island where the number of inhabitants is just under 100,000.

Purchased by Ulster Stores, a family-owned independent retail group based in Coleraine, Northern Ireland, in 2006, De Gruchy is undergoing a period of investment and it is with this in mind that Drapers flew to Jersey to interview store director John Marquis.

The store has intricate iron entrance gates and a beautiful glass atrium running spine-like through the centre of store – designed to allow the 19th-century’s horse-drawn carts to parade through and drop off ladies for a spot of shopping, and then pick them up again and take them out the other side. Offsetting the original features on the ground floor is a modern, light and airy menswear department. However, upstairs it’s a different story – the first floor womenswear department looks tired and dated, and in desperate need of a revamp.

Marquis joined de Gruchy in 2011, bringing over 30 years of store and area management experience at businesses such as Habitat, Topshop and House of Fraser. Since taking up his post at De Gruchy he has been working alongside Ulster Stores managing director Neville Moore to overhaul the look and feel of the store with a gradual refurbishment programme, which began by ditching the high turnover but low profit yielding electrical and TV area to create the largest card and stationery offer on the Channel Islands.

Next on the agenda is the fashion offer, which represents around 62% of turnover. “Setting the scene for the next five years has really been what I’ve been working on since coming here. We’re into year one of that process now, looking at the masterplan and layout of the store and working with [architects] James and Smith Associates with a view to getting our space and direction of the store in the way we feel it should go for the local market,” Marquis tells me as we take a seat in his office, where portraits of the store’s husband and wife founders Abraham and Marie de Gruchy peer down at us.

He says there are five major projects the business would like to undertake, starting with an overhaul of the first floor women’s fashion department set to cost between £75,000 and £100,000. “We’ve already bought new brands for spring 14, scouring far and wide to get the right fashion edit for De Gruchy, and that will be the next area to undertake refurbishment.”

To freshen up its spring 14 offer, De Gruchy’s buying team visited womenswear trade show 16

Drapers / NOVeMber 2 2013

island dressinG

John Marquis, store director of Jersey landmark De Gruchy, is overseeing the historic department store’s fashion revamp Words by JAMES KNOWLES Photography by TOM CAMPBELL

u NOVeMber 2 2013 /

Drapers

17

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John Marquis I The Drapers InTervIew

Fabric of time: De Gruchy’s original features include a glass atrium (left) designed for carts to pass through

scoop in London, where they picked up Linen Laundry and Filippa K, and Copenhagen Fashion Week, where they bought into aJ 117 Project.

Mih Jeans will also be introduced, the Kookaï offer expanded, and a Gant womenswear section opened in a bid to mirror the brand’s successful showing in the menswear department. “We’re trying to create a fashion edit that is not currently available in the local market,” says Marquis.

The menswear deparTmenT on the ground floor will retain its current look and layout, though new brands such as stone island and hackett will be added for spring 14 to join a line-up that includes Polo ralph Lauren, Paul smith and hugo boss. Marquis says that while womenswear represents a larger split of sales at 65% versus 35%, the menswear department has experienced a 10% sales rise this autumn so far compared with last year and that he sees it as a “huge growth area”.

“Then really i think it is how we focus and develop our fashion accessory business, which at the moment in terms of its layout and

adjacencies is quite split and quite diverse. it’s not what you would normally expect under a department store remit,” he says. similarly, Marquis wants to overhaul the footwear offer, which at present is limited to Dune, the shoe studio’s portfolio [ugg, steve Madden, roberto vianni] and LK bennett, by creating a dedicated department and introducing new brands. “our shoe offer is currently [displayed throughout the store], which doesn’t make any sense at all. so we’re looking to create a cohesive shoe offer and shoe hall.” he adds that De Gruchy will also be rebranding as part of its five-year plan, with a new fascia, logo and carrier bags: “The brand itself has possibly lost a little bit of direction over the years. so the senior management team is really looking to strengthen it alongside the development of the De Gruchy website.” sales from the transactional site, www.degruchys.com, are below 5% of total turnover.

That online strategy will focus on the domestic Jersey customer, to encourage them to shop with De Gruchy rather than with overseas

competition. “it will become more important.

The Jersey customer sits at home with a glass of wine at 10pm, just like a uK consumer, and decides where to shop. They must have De Gruchy as part of that choice.” of course, all of this development will help De Gruchy compete with long-standing rival voisins, which was established in 1837 and sits just a stone’s throw away on King street. surely the competition between two department stores serving a relatively small island population must be intense? “it is competitive but you also have to recognise that there is no Debenhams, no John Lewis and no house of Fraser. so within the market context there is enough business here for both department stores to live alongside each other,” he replies, diplomatically. he says the differentiating factor is De Gruchy’s “bullseye” target customer of 40 to 45 years old, which he claims is older than the consumers shopping at voisins. and he’s right – voisins definitely has a younger feel.

Marquis declines to reveal De Gruchy’s turnover and profit, but does say it managed a small profit for the year to January 31, 2012.

Parent ulster stores, which also owns department stores Moores of Coleraine and The White house in Portrush, northern ireland, as well as Clare’s of Llandudno in Wales, saw its turnover fall from £12.4m in 2011 to £12.2m in 2012, a drop of 2%, while profits increased from £16,915 to £22,461 in the same period.

Despite the challenging climate, Marquis is confident De Gruchy’s overhaul will pay off, and says that while spring trading was tough, autumn is looking more positive. “For me to come to an independent store on Jersey on an island this size, it had to offer me something, and that was the challenge and the opportunity of helping to take the business forward. With 200 years of history, what does the next 10, 15, 20 years look like and how can i help establish that? The good news is we’ve got a committed team of people both here and in ulster stores who all want to make a success of De Gruchy.” noveMber 2 2013 /

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Shopwatch I DIffuSIon

Bank statement

Diffusion’s new flagship updates a former bank in the heart of Wolverhampton with modern touches to showcase its premium brand mix

D

iffusion has become quite the institution since opening the doors of its first multi-brand store in Wolverhampton in 1989. More than 20 years later and with additional shops in Telford, Walsall, Westfield Derby and two in the Westfield Merry Hill shopping centre, the smart-meets-streetwear independent retailer has slowly grown into a major force on the Midlands fashion scene.

Add to that the running of nine G-Star franchises in prominent locations such as Carnaby Street and Covent Garden, and it is safe to say founders Carl Peddie and Gerald Bailey know a thing or two about fashion retail.

During 2012 and early 2013, the team undertook a swathe of store upgrades, with refits, refurbishments and relocations taking place across the board. This culminated in May this year with the opening of Diffusion’s ambitious Wolverhampton flagship and head office, at 9 Lichfield Street, following the closure of the previous HQ on Victoria.

The 4,500 sq ft store is housed in a grand Grade II-listed building, a spacious former bank that most recently housed one of the city’s 20

Drapers / noVeMBer 2 2013

Words by GRAEME MORAN

busiest bars. It cost more than £500,000 to revamp.

“We wanted to make a big impact for our flagship store, so when the opportunity to move to such a historic building came along we decided to take it,” says rav rayet, head of marketing and online sales at Diffusion, who also spearheaded the store’s design and fit-out. And make an impact it has; the store has been shortlisted as a finalist in the Best Store Design category in the Drapers Independents Awards 2013.

“The store is modern, yet retains all the character you would expect in a listed building,” says rayet. “It was a rigorous process finalising every small detail due to the building being listed, but we wanted to retain the history as much as we could, while also injecting something fresh and new at the same time.”

Diffusion enlisted the services of local firms, architect Design to Build and construction company Bespoke, to work alongside its in-house design team. restored original features, industrial add-ons and carefully considered fixtures and fittings make for an interesting and somewhat quirky interior, mixing the charm of the building with modern updates and shiny design features.

The store showcases Diffusion’s edit of big-name brands and up-and-coming labels for men, women and kids, including the likes of Barbour, Billionaire Boys Club, Blood Brother, Diesel, J Brand and Scotch & Soda.

Considering the shopfloor is on a single ground-floor level, the team has done well to divide the space into clear yet free-flowing sections, using furniture and various rail heights to designate menswear, womenswear, streetwear, kidswear, denim and accessories.

The store is dominated by two huge chandeliers and the central Denim Lab, a large floor-to-ceiling area highlighted with sleek white tiles. “The idea behind this was to sell by fit rather than brand,” explains rayet.

“This gives smaller brands a chance because staff are able to push them as well as the bigger brands we stock.” other standout features include a footwear space where shoes appear to float against a chipboard wall, making the most of a more modern, low-ceilinged corner of the shop. A separate raised platform and seating area segments the womenswear department to provide a cosier, more premium vibe, while men’s and women’s changing rooms have different entrances for privacy. Diffusion’s successful transactional website also has an in-store presence, with a computer for shoppers to browse online for additional styles and sizes.

But has the upgrade and the move from its previous site to this prime location next to Wolverhampton Art Gallery resulted in an increase in shoppers? According to rayet it has already boosted footfall: “The store has helped us attract a more mature customer, as well as helping to retain our core shopper.” noVeMBer 2 2013 /

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FASHION NEWS

‘Who can fill the gap left by Jil Sander?’

Ian Wright Fashion director, Drapers ian.wright@emap.com

I

feel like I have written this article before.

Jil Sander has left her eponymous label and simultaneously set the creative director game of musical chairs in motion again. Déjà vu, right? With the rumour Nicolas Ghesquière is in pole position to step into Marc Jacobs’ shoes at Louis Vuitton now going off the boil, the focus momentarily shifts from Paris to Milan and Jil Sander HQ. Sander has left for unspecified personal reasons, barely 18 months after returning to the brand she set up 45 years ago. She picked up the baton from Mr Raf Simons, who hasn’t exactly done badly for himself since leaving the company to become creative director at Christian Dior. Simons’ work recontextualised what the Jil Sander brand was and took it beyond just the severe minimalism on which its reputation was built.

On coming back in February last year, Sander found herself at the helm of a brand that, while not completely unrecognisable, had definitely had a facelift. With Simons receiving rave reviews both for his final collections at Jil Sander and his first few for Dior, it can’t have been easy for Sander to pick things up again after an eight-year hiatus, her Uniqlo project aside.

However, she seemed to make a good fist of it, embracing some colour and pattern in an attempt to keep the brand modern, but ultimately I always felt Sander’s recent collections weren’t quite the purest expressions of her uncompromising aesthetic. And when your signature is strict and exact, breaking out and doing a jazzy floral because the marketing bods say everyone’s doing it would be all the more alien. Simons was the perfect choice in 2005 but I’m at a loss for another designer that is similarly talented and passionate about the plain and precise to take the label on now.

SILK EVENING DRESS BY ROBERTO CAPUCCI , V&A

Italian glamour on show at the V&A Next April sees the Victoria & Albert Museum launch an exhibition called The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014.

The show will pull together about 100 ensembles that exemplify the contribution to the industry made by Italian brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Versace as well as forgotten post-war names such as the Fontana sisters. The exhibition runs from April 5 to July 27. www.vam.ac.uk 22

Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

New name: Anhha Womenswear label Anhha has been launched for spring 14 by design duo Anh Trieu and Ha Dang. The pair have set up a London design studio and a workshop in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, employing local women highly skilled in the intricate embroidery and hand-beading that feature across the collection.

Decorative bomber jackets, sporty sweatshirts, A-line, high-low rounded-hem skirts, simple T-shirts and menswear-inspired shirts all get the treatment in a 60-piece collection that has picked up seven accounts for its first season.

Contact: 020 7729 6788 www.anhha.com

Pink Dolphin makes a splash in streetwear Streetwear brand Pink Dolphin has made its name in the US with its unusual use of colour and print, and bold typography. The San Francisco label has more than 320 stockists in the US but is much less exposed on these shores – the fresh detail such as embroidered repeat sushi patterns set the brand apart in such a competitive market. Wholesale prices range from $8 (£5) for socks to $80 (£49) for a twill jacket.

Contact: 00 1 917 400 6242 www.pinkdolphinonline.com

WELLENSTEYN Autumn 13 injection

Need to add more outerwear to your offer? German jacket and coat brand Wellensteyn has recently launched in the UK and offers autumn 13 deliveries within 10 days from its warehouse in Hamburg. Developed more than 60 years ago to keep workers in the German shipyards warm and dry, the brand’s 400 outerwear options have technical features such as welded seams, insulated pockets and waterproof polyurethane coatings. Wholesale prices range from £180 for a short jacket to £485 for a full-length winter parka.

Contact: 07841 145542 www.wellensteyn.co.uk

A BRAND TO SQUARE THE CIRCLE

Dutch menswear brand Circle of Gentlemen is offering a spring 14 collection packed with European flair to its 70 UK stockists. Tailoring is the foundation of the brand, with riffs on the blazer such as nautical dbs, quilted and summer colour styles running throughout the range, while everything from shirting to denim makes for a comprehensive offer.

Wholesale prices range from €140 (£119) for a shirt to €450 (£384) for a jacket Contact: 00 31 33 24 71 140 www.circleofgentlemen.com

NOVEMBER 2 2013 /

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THE STYLE COUNCIL

Q

Are womenswear brands improving their quality? t Clare Serjeant One thing that has improved is branding – labels have upped their game on logos. We deal with a lot of short-order labels at a lower price point, so fabric quality isn’t necessarily the priority.

Finishing is often poor, even as far as brands’ own sewn-in labels not being sewn in properly. I wouldn’t say it’s now significantly worse, although some brands have gone downhill. Others such as Sugarhill Boutique (pictured) have kept it level.

t David Conaghan Quality in mid-market to higher-end brands has been fairly consistent but with fast fashion you can get incorrect washes or poor stitching. It’s something we’re used to. With the turnaround being so quick now, it’s a fight against the clock for brands and sometimes quality is compromised, but some like TFNC (pictured) still make it work, with few returns or damages.

The panel

RHOWEN YOKI Owner of three-store young fashion retailer Fusion in Cornwall

CLARE SERJEANT Owner of women's young fashion store Fox + Feather in Bristol

DAVID CONAGHAN Co-owner of young fashion retailer Chocolate Clothing in Derry, Northern Ireland

PREETA COOLEY Director of womenswear store Curve in Wendover, Buckinghamshire

u Rhowen Yoki In the past 12 years, the quality of young fashion and in particular fast-fashion brands has improved to unbelievable levels.

Brands such as Vero Moda (pictured) and Bellfield are better than the high street and it is amazing how quickly they turn out new items. We’ve come to expect quality – young fashion used to be on a par with market trader levels of product.

Now the design and workmanship is excellent: hems are straight, buttons secure and threads aren’t loose.

u Preeta Cooley Some of the higher-end brands have gone down in quality.

It’s obvious with pieces brands repeat each season if they change suppliers and go with a cheaper one. Brands are cutting overheads and that is coming through.

Fits are generally still good and we’re careful with that.

One thing we’ve noticed is that sometimes when garments come folded it’s impossible to steam the creases out of them and that’s down to fabric quality. One brand that has been great for quality this season is 7 For All Mankind (pictured).

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

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Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

TexTiles AUTUMN 14

Textile Forum

Four exhibitors discuss the fabric show’s new home and the state of the market Words by Graeme moran

ringhart

“It’s gone really well. The new venue [One Marylebone in London] is very good and it’s much smarter and fresher.

It seems a lot more professional and it’s great to be part of a growing, developing show,” said Mayur Tejura, director at shirting specialist Ringhart.

“Numbers have been up; it’s mostly small designers but they’ve been a lot more serious. The general mood is alright, people are starting to feel more positive.”

For autumn 14, Ringhart’s bright colours in bold combos catch the eye, while check, conversational and geometric patterns also stand out.

Contact: 020 8335 4700 www.ringhart.com

Basinghall

“We’ve been showing at Textile Forum for nearly 10 years so it’s good to see it growing. It’s been a little crowded but I like the new location,” said Chris Day, sales representative at Basinghall, which mostly offers bridal, evening and kids’ wear fabrics.

Day said Textile Forum was best for finding new customers from a broad range of sectors, especially new brands and emerging designers . “It’s been busier than March and the venue move hasn’t affected numbers. It still feels like people are cautious but also like there’s something good around the corner.”

Contact: 020 7275 0117

Marling & Evans

Huddersfield weavers Marling & Evans returned to Textile Forum after a break of a few seasons, and found it to be a lively show.

“It’s been very busy, we’ve even run out of order forms,” said representative Paul Callaghan. “You can’t compare it to Première Vision because this is for another sector, attracting smaller, new names and start-ups.”

With 100% British product spun, woven and finished within a five-mile radius of its factory, Marling & Evans’ provenance is a draw. “It’s a trend but if you keep innovating it will keep up the appetite for British product.”

Contact: 01484 848840 www.marlingandevansltd.co.uk

Johnstons of Elgin

“It’s been really busy and people have been very positive,” said Greg Rorison, sales executive at woollen mill Johnstons of Elgin.

Although he believes people are still being careful, price is not a concern, with Johnstons’ more premium offerings getting most attention.

“People still want Made in the UK. The heritage aspect is still strong and being awarded the Royal Warrant earlier this year has helped even more,” he said. “They might make the garment elsewhere but still want the fabric made here.”

Contact: 020 7227 3131 www.johnstonscashmere. com

JaMEs harE

“It’s been very busy, we’ve seen lots of current customers and a few new ones,” said Charlie Hare, director of Leeds silk and lace supplier James Hare.

“It’s felt busier than previous shows, I think the change has revitalised it. I like the new venue, there’s not a lot of room when it’s busy but it’s not a problem.

“The mood has been good but people are still cautious. I think the days of writing orders on the stands are gone.”

Customers are favouring textured finishes and a renewed focus on lace, while embroideries are less popular, said Hare.

Contact: 0113 236 4906 www.james-hare.com NOVEMBER 2 2013 /

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independent trading

The Association of Independent Stores is working hard to ensure its members have a future in retail

T

league of

Words by Victoria GallaGher

he multiples’ discounting mania and the popularity of value clothing makes it ever more difficult for small retailers to compete with the high street, but buying group the Association of Independent Stores (AIS) is hoping to increase their chances.

AIS, which was set up more than 30 years ago by the merger of two separate buying groups, Associated Department Stores (ADS) and Independent Stores Association (ISA), offers indies in the UK and Republic of Ireland a buying service, has its own brands and hosts regular mainstream trade shows.

Operating across furniture, homeware and fashion, the latter division has 90 members with 166 stores. In the year to June 30, 2012, AIS had 367 members across all divisions, representing more than 1,000 stores with a combined retail turnover of £2.1bn.

Commercial director David Standing explains: “AIS’s primary objective is to improve its members’ profitability by helping them compete with multiples. And as well as doing this through sourcing and buying channels, it also adds value in other areas such as procurement, marketing and general business support.” the group has had a major overhaul this year, with its trade shows, held in an exhibition space at its offices in Shirley, near Solihull, revamped.

The shows, some of which were branded Aimex, now all fall under the Indx banner to provide consistent branding. AIS hosts eight fashion trade shows across the year covering menswear, womenswear, intimate apparel (which includes lingerie and nightwear) and fashion accessories.

Jenny Clarke, merchandising director at independent department store Stringers in Lytham, Lancashire, says AIS’s exhibitions have “moved on significantly” this year. “Its accessories show was really useful, with some good handbag brands and some nice in-season product. It is working hard to bring more brands in so they are relevant.”

Standing says the show revamp means AIS has been able to present an improved proposition to attract new exhibitors, claiming it was a contributory factor in the sign-up of about 60 brands across its events this year. Brands include Weird Fish and Esprit in menswear and Adini and Seasalt in womenswear.

Changing people’s mindset will of course take time, but Clarke says it is “going in the right 26

Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

a BrieF gUide tO aiS ● AIS has 367 members across all divisions ● Those members range from single independent high street specialists of less than £1m turnover, to regional chains or large flagship stores of more than £100m ● Across all its product categories AIS has a portfolio of more than 1,000 suppliers ● AIS’s total buying turnover through Cenpac is more than £400m ● Fashion categories make up around 15% of turnover through Cenpac ● Membership varies from £3,000 to £25,000 a year and is calculated individually depending on the member’s turnover

their own Hot ticket: shows offer labels such as Kingston (above) and James Aubrey (right)

the spring 14 Indx womenswear show were up 38% compared with two years ago.

direction”. She adds: “It’s making the right noises.

There has been more emphasis on visual merchandising and theming, so it has had more of a creative feel too.”

AIS’s group buying service gives it the power to negotiate on trade terms, exclusive product and member-only promotional deals.

The group has a centralised payment system, called Cenpac. All retailers are invoiced through this by AIS, which chases up late payments or settles any other issues. Therefore suppliers are guaranteed to get paid on time and in full. AIS will even make the payment if a retailer goes bust. The scheme also cuts administration costs for suppliers and members.

One of the biggest advantages AIS provides is its own brands, which are exclusive to its members and generally offer higher margins than other more widely available brands – it aims to offer at least a three-times mark-up.

“AIS members are faced with pressures on margin and the behaviour of many leading concession brands in respect of online selling and the practice of ‘showrooming’,” says Standing.

“The growth of ecommerce in general, whether pure-play or multiples that have significant investment pots is another threat to smaller or more traditional bricks-and-mortar businesses.”

In a bid to help indies harvest a higher return and also reach a broader customer demographic, the AIS own-brand offering has been subject to a makeover in the wake of last year’s appointment of new director of fashion Paula Fowler, who previously had a long career at Debenhams.

Members have praised AIS’s transformation of its womenswear for spring 14, with stockists upping their orders by as much as 100%.

Its First Avenue label has been split into Classic and Collection ranges, which were debuted at the Indx womenswear show on August 7-9 at Cranmore Park. Classic is aimed at the older core customer and Collection has a more contemporary look. Retail prices across both range from £9.99 for a viscose top to £50 for a printed stretch Lycra dress.

Nick Brown, managing director of department store Browns of York, says the refreshed womenswear has been a great move, enabling indies to stand out on the high street.

Wendy Cole, fashion director at East Anglia-based Palmers, which has four department stores in East Anglia, says: “Since Paula started she has rapidly moved on First Avenue, which was needed to compete with the multiples. She has brought through style, quality and margin.

“This season it is looking really good. It has taken a while to separate the line [into the Classic and Collection ranges], but it is really going well in store. We needed new colour and new First Avenue product development.”

Collection The figures speak for themselves – orders taken at

the enhanCeD Menswear offer, which launched in February with a new website and designs, has also been praised by retailers.

The James Aubrey range, which has two lines, Heritage and Collection, includes a selection of British-made garments and retails from £45 to £299 for a full-length Harris Tweed coat.

Standing says throughout the next 18 months there will be further developments to the ranges to appeal to a broader cross-section of shoppers.

Stockists told Drapers that AIS’s mainstream menswear line Kingston, which retails from £7.99 for a basic T-shirt up to £40 for a sweater, could benefit from having similar treatment to the womenswear ranges. “They need to update it so it appeals to a younger man,” says Cole at Palmers.

This year has also seen the launch of AIS’s footwear division from brands such as Rocket Dog, Lisa Kay Shoes and Ruby Shoo. The offer has been widely welcomed by indies following the collapse of handbag and footwear business Jane Shilton, which previously operated concessions in some AIS members’ stores.

Standing says he believes the expansion into footwear has “more potential in 2014 and beyond”. It launched in February with six exhibitors and has expanded to 13 over its first two shows.

Despite the economic environment remaining tough, Standing insists the indie sector has been holding up and AIS has sustained its membership levels: “We are proud to say that our churn is very low with new members offsetting any losses.” The economic downturn has also encouraged AIS to adapt and prepare for the future.

“Of course, any independent retail business that does not look to move with the times would certainly be at risk in these extremely competitive times,” says Standing. “Therefore we are continually reviewing and improving the service we provide, such as delivering own brands to a wider customer demographic, continually reviewing our supply base and improvements on margins.”

NOVEMBER 2 2013 /

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supply chain I RETuRNS

Starting over again

Dealing with a high volume of clothing returns is an expensive business for multichannel retailers Words by JAMES KNOWLES

T

he average rate of clothing returns runs at between 30% and 40% for most multichannel retailers, which represents a significant amount of working capital. Therefore having robust processes in place to refund payments and reprocess stock back into the supply chain as quickly as possible should be central to any multichannel strategy. However, this is not always the case.

Jon Gibson, head of logistics at supply chain consultancy Crimson & Co, says that whereas pure-play etailers are quite far down the line in regards to returns processes, those from a bricks-and-mortar background are lagging behind. “If you look at the more traditional retailers who are largely store-based they still tend to see it as a problem, and I’m not convinced that a number of them have addressed and thought about how they deal with it efficiently. You have to look at returns as a part of business and they will increase,” he says.

Tony mannix, managing director of logistics firm Clipper, which counts Asos, John Lewis, Asda and Tesco among its customers, agrees.

“Returns tend to be the bit of the omni or multichannel strategy the retailer thinks about last. But actually it’s probably one of the most important things to get right. Online has

Online has kicked up a big returns issue, possibly far greater than some of the retailers were expecting

Tony Mannix, managing director, Clipper

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Drapers / NOVEmBER 2 2013

kicked up a big returns issue, possibly far greater than some of the retailers were expecting. The reason it becomes a big issue for them is as their online business grows the inventory that is then tied up in returns can be of enormous value.

“Now to put that into context, if you look at Asos and you look at the value of its turnover, you are talking hundreds of thousands of returns a week. Now that applies to everyone we deal with, so John Lewis, or George at Asda (for example).”

John Bailey, European vice president at software supplier JDA Software, says: “Retailers are realising this is severely damaging their profit now as the ecommerce business is so much bigger. And retailers say to us the goal is to get that product back on sale at full price.”

James Harper, Head of returns at home shopping giant Shop Direct Group, which owns Very, Isme and Littlewoods, says returns vary by product type, with the majority based on fit and choice reasons. Womenswear is typically above 30% and kidswear at only 15%. All of Shop Direct’s returns are reprocessed at its dedicated centre in Oldham, which employs 500 people and where every item is examined, credited and in most cases put back on the [virtual] shelf for resale. “After initial inspection we have a variety of options. These include various steam-cleaning mechanisms, spot cleaning, reboxing or rebagging and minor repairs,” says Harper.

Etailer Isabella Oliver has a returns rate of 33.4% for its womenswear website Baukjen, and 27.5% for its eponymous maternitywear site.

Chief executive Geoff van Sonsbeeck says reprocessing returns quickly is essential: “It’s critical to do it as soon as we have it and action either an exchange or refund. The customer experience is paramount.”

He says it aims to get products reprocessed – after steaming and cleaning if needed – rapidly. “Certainly as we get close to the Sale you want to sell out, so we want to get it reprocessed as fast as possible.

If I had unlimited working capital pockets, then it might be less important. But I need to get my working capital back onto the shelf as quickly as I can.” mannix says product arriving back will potentially need to be checked, cleaned, repackaged and relabelled, because the customer who then buys it does not want it to arrive looking secondhand: “If a retailer doesn’t have slick ways of reprocessing returned stock, it ends up with cash tied up in inventory that it can’t sell, with potentially a big write-off of inventory that has been damaged or it doesn’t know what to do with. So suddenly the value in all that is enormous.”

end-of-season clearance lines, but mannix says in the future retailers might need to consider what to do with damaged product.

“Retailers have to ask themselves whether it’s got a fault worth rectifying, or would eBay be a better distribution route for that product, and to market it as a product that has a particular problem. Or is there work we could do where the product justifies it in terms of sticking a button on or proper dry cleaning, because actually it is a very expensive item and the cost of rectifying isn’t that great,” he says.

Counterfeit returns are also a problem.

In some instances customers will buy an expensive item, remove the label and attach it to a cheaper garment that they then return. This is a particular issue with higher-priced items, and retailers need to have the correct processes in place to spot them.

In the US it isn’t a given that you can return products, so the rates are very low

Geoff van Sonsbeeck, chief executive, Isabella Oliver

In fashion, where product is largely seasonal, failure to reprocess clothing swiftly could result in a lost sale if a retailer keeps few items of a best-selling piece in stock, or if it is out of season.

“It’s crucial to reprocess returns to minimise wastage. We handle more than £500m of stock in returns every year. That makes returns the largest single supplier to our business,” says Harper.

Clipper, wHiCH provides a full range of reprocessing services, is now looking at how it can further extract value from damaged returns. mannix says that whereas this would previously have been taken by the “jobbing” market – and sold on market stalls often in different countries – that market is now oversaturated with such pieces so can’t take them. Clipper has created an eBay shop called Genesis to help clients such as New Look sell in-season excess stock and

“We sell highly desirable brands and products so we’re mindful that a small minority of people will try to exploit our returns policy. We work very closely with our suppliers and our colleagues also have great ongoing training to enhance their knowledge and ability to undertake stringent checks. Having specialists to secondary check such products also helps,” says Harper.

The other major factor adding in complexity is international returns. About 50% of Isabella Oliver’s sales are international, and Van Sonsbeeck says return rates differ greatly across the world: “In the uS it isn’t a given, or at least a perceived given, that you can return products, so the rates are very low. Whereas in Germany it is very high.”

He adds: “Typically it is more costly to get the parcel back and it can be more cumbersome to keep the customer experience high during the process of getting it back. I might have less control of how quickly I get it and how fast I can deal with the paperwork and the refund or the exchange, because on occasion I’m dependent on couriers and it could take longer than expected.” Although the answer here could be regional distribution and returns centres.

Clearly returns are an issue that many fashion brands and retailers are still grappling with, but as online sales continue to increase, so will returns.

li & Fung adapts to the short-order challenge

By Catherine Neilan

Hong Kong supplier Li & Fung is adapting its business model as a result of a shift towards short-order buying among its customers.

The global business reported just a 1% increase in pre-tax profits for the first half of this year. It explained that the trend for short order was making its financial performance “increasingly skewed towards the second half of the year”.

“The extent of this skewing effect is even greater this year, with customers requiring shorter lead times and less inventory, and therefore requesting shipments closer to the peak year-end retail season,” Li & Fung’s statement said. “We expect the proportion of sales and earnings recorded in the second half of the year to increase in future.”

President and chief executive Bruce Rockowitz told Drapers on a recent visit to its Hong Kong office that far from being a response to the unpredictable British weather, short order is a global phenomenon, noting that with improved data gathering, retailers are able to make decisions later.

“The decision-making process is being better planned by the retailer, and by waiting until the last minute they know what is and what isn’t selling.”

This means the supply chain is having to change its working practices, all the way down to staffing in factories. “Factories are used to slow periods but there is definitely a change.”

This will all feed into Li & Fung’s next three-year plan, which is being developed now to be unveiled next spring.

Rockowitz would not give away too much detail, but noted that Li & Fung will be looking to cross-sell more between its businesses: “We will be focusing on organic growth rather than acquisitions.”

NOVEmBER 2 2013 /

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Careers

WitH

How I got here

Christopher-John Sumner His job can be complex and challenging, but Joseph’s visual merchandiser says it’s worth it Words by JAMES KNOWLES

What does your diary look like today? More often than not my day will start quite early. Today I’ll be overseeing the launch of our womenswear concept within Harrods. I’ll then visit two or three of our London stores, working with the retail teams to make sure the visual story is being told properly; our directors have a clear vision of the way Joseph should be experienced.

Right now we’re introducing autumn 13 collections in phases, so it’s a continuous process to oversee mannequin styling and fixture layout.

In the afternoon, I’ll work from the office on future schemes for our store windows. At the moment we’re working on a concept with Michael Roberts [fashion editor of Vanity Fair] to celebrate the 25th anniversary of our flagship store at 77 Fulham Road, Knightsbridge. We’re starting to think about prepping our showroom for spring 14 collections, so towards the end of the day I’ll catch up with our creative director and press team for an update on creating product stories.

What event are you most looking forward to today? We’ve just started work on our Christmas windows concept which is always one of my favourites to work on. Part of this is due to us having our biggest

budget for Christmas, which means we can think bigger and better. This year we’re developing the scheme with an exciting British designer.

I can’t say who just yet.

How did you get to where you are today? I got into visual merchandising early on in my career and instantly knew it was the right fit.

Working in department stores was a good introduction, as it has allowed for a broad understanding of display, styling, event production and commercial awareness. Moving to a smaller brand like Joseph has meant I’ve been lucky enough to work independently on brilliant projects, and have travelled to amazing places through overseeing store openings in Taipei, Moscow and New York.

What’s been your career highlight so far? Two of the window schemes I’ve worked on spring to mind. In summer 2010 we worked with [fashion journalist] Katie Grand on a concept that saw her do an amazing styling edit of our flagship store.

We also created an installation for Christmas 2011, which was an interpretation of Giles Deacon’s runway show, with headpieces by [milliner] Stephen Jones. Both projects were complex, challenging and labour-intensive, but involved working with brilliant, inspirational

CV 2010 Visual merchandiser, Joseph 2010 Visual merchandiser, Harvey Nichols 2007 Visual merchandising team leader, Selfridges Birmingham

people who made it worth it.

Who is your mentor? Bradley Taylor, head of visual merchandising for Mulberry and former Selfridges VM manager, is a mentor and friend.

What’s the best advice he’s given you? Work hard and stay committed.

When projects come together it’s always worth it in the end.

How do you see your career progressing? I’ll always work in something visual. In the future I’d

love to develop the areas of my role that I’m especially passionate about, such as set design.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Internships are massively important. You’ve got to immerse yourself in it, and make potential employers aware that you’re passionate. Try and demonstrate a broad understanding of art and design, go to as many exhibitions as you can, and never stop looking at what the amazing stores that are famous for their visual merchandising are doing.

Lastly, it’s important to strive to work for a brand you understand the DNA of. It’s the best way of guaranteeing you can communicate that vision.

Salaries for this position range from £45,000 to £50,000 (estimate provided by Henry Fox)

Supplying and recruiting the highest quality talent in Production and Technical positions

Email: admin@vohsandco.com Tel: 0203 668 1466

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Drapers / NoVeMBeR 2 2013

www.vohsandco.com follow us @vohsandco

connect with us using LinkedIn

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

the next big thing

DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU SEE IT? Based in the heart of Manchester

- Merchandisers | £25k-£30k - Product Managers | £25k-£30k Merchandisers (Home | £35,000 -- Merchandise Managers | c£50kand Gift) - Product Selector | £25k-£35k - Assistant Merchandisers | £20k - QA Supervisors | £30k-£35k - Merchandisers Ladieswear | £35,000-£43,000 (doe) - Temporary Buyer | £35k-£40k pro rata At JD Williams, we’re very proud of our big brands, continued growth, highly profitable and successful multi-channel offer – online, on the high street and in catalogues. But in the fast-moving world of fashion retail, you can never stand still, which is why we’re rapidly changing to set the pace in our market.

Join us at this exciting time and you’ll enjoy the freedom to help shape the way we work and provide our 2.5 million customers with the best ranges around. Expanding our stores and growing internationally, we’re focusing more on customer segments, in season trading and mobile-centric retailing. We’ve huge plans for the future and we want you to be part of them.

To apply, please visit:

www.jdwilliamsgroup.jobs

Experienced jewellery sales person required.

An exciting opportunity has arisen for an experienced sales person to help drive the business forward. Must be motivated in developing new business. Jewellery experience not essential.

The position will possibly progress to Assistant Manager level.

To apply, please visit www.drapersjobs.com and search for ‘2655727’

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.

Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 Freya.Lucas@EMAP.com

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Senior Buyer - Daywear Dresses & Soft Separates and Senior Buyer - Dresses London Competitive salary + benefits Due to the ongoing growth of the Lipsy brand we are expanding our Buying team and we are currently looking for 2 talented Senior Buyers to join the team at Head Office.

We are currently recruiting for a Senior Buyer on Daywear Dresses & Soft Separates and a Senior Buyer on Dresses. As a Senior Buyer you will be responsible for creating and delivering a profitable and commercial range to maximise sales. You will work closely with the Merchandising and Design teams to discuss historical and future trends data to propose the range structure, including options and price architecture for their departments.

You must have excellent customer awareness and knowledge of current and potential market/fashion trends with the ability to adapt this information for the Lipsy customer.

To apply for either of these roles you must already be operating at Senior Buyer level and have gained solid experience in a fast paced, high street fashion brand. A clear passion for product, fashion, trends and the Lipsy brand is also essential.

Senior Designer - Party/Occasionwear Dresses London Competitive salary + benefits Lipsy are delighted to have an exciting and rare opportunity for a talented and highly creative designer to join our innovative design team and be accountable for the product area that Lipsy is most famously known for Party Dresses!

The successful candidate will be responsible for designing the party/ occasionwear dress collection mixing both creativity and commerciality, with a particular focus on retaining the iconic Lipsy handwriting whilst strengthening the future development of the brand. You must also have a strong eye for prints and be able to create your own embellishment ideas. In this role you may also have the opportunity to work on celebrity collaboration ranges.

You will understand our customer but also excite them with new and original product ranges that are ahead of the trend. As a Senior Designer you will be responsible for controlling the whole process of design through from initial ideas to the final product with clear communication and organisation.

To apply for this role you must already be operating at Senior Designer level and have gained extensive experience in working for a high end/premium high street fashion retailer.

For more information and to apply, please go to www.drapersjobs.com and search for Lipsy

RETAIL OPERATIONS MANAGER Hackett London, the luxury British menswear brand, is the home of “Essentially British” clothing and accessories for the modern gentleman. With a growing footprint around the world, recognised in 2012 with a Queen’s Award for International Trade, Hackett style has become an international symbol of all that is best in authentic British menswear as well as in customer service. Hackett is an up-and-coming brand with plenty of potential in existing and new territories via its mix of own retail, wholesale and online channels. The growth in Hackett’s sales of its clothing and accessories is supported by the appealing British world presented in its gentlemen’s club-like stores, strong seasonal photography and via sponsorships of world class teams & events such as the BAFTA Film Awards, the Boat Race and Aston Martin Racing.

We are looking for someone with proven experience in this area, who is willing to travel on an international basis. You must be an excellent verbal and written communicator and have great time and people management skills. You must be able to negotiate with vendors in order to get the best deals from them and ensure you are always working within budget as you will be responsible for the whole international retail overhead budget.

We are currently recruiting for a Retail Operations Manager to join the Retail Operations Team at our head office in Butlers Wharf, London.

You must be able to use Microsoft Word, Excel and Outlook.

Reporting directly to our Retail Director you will primarily be responsible for supporting the Retail Managers in our stores, to ensure all back of house retail units in all markets are run correctly and that policies and procedures are adhered to at all times. You will also be responsible for; store communications, risk and compliance, stock control, profitability and budgeting, shop maintenance and health and safety. In addition you will support with new store openings and other retail organised events.

Hackett is a fast paced environment and therefore we require people who have trouble shooting and problem solving skills, you will be commercial, flexible and results driven.

Ideally you will be able to speak an additional European language to English.

This is an exciting time to join the Company as we continue to grow as a business if you feel you can add value to our Organisation and you would like to be part of taking Hackett to the next level do not hesitate in sending us your cv and covering letter outlining your salary expectations and current notice period to the email address recruitment@hackett.co.uk Deadline for applications is 8th November 2013. Late applications might not be considered.

SALES DIRECTOR Gecko is part of WB The Creative Jewellery Group Ltd which also includes Weston Beamor and Domino, these businesses manufacture, supply and distribute to the Independent Jewellery and Giftware and Major Retailers.

This covers 9ct gold, Sterling Silver, Fashion , 18ct and Platinum Jewellery.

Sales turnover for the group is currently around £30 - £35m pa, generated through the combined efforts of a dedicated sales force, an established distributor network and growing online sales.

We wish to recruit for a new, Gecko board Appointment of Sales Director to be based in London. The successful applicant will play a key part in delivering the company’s objectives of exploring new market opportunities while continuing to refine and develop its UK and international business activities. Short-term priorities will include driving up profitable turnover through effective sales force management and key account development, e-commerce activities and supporting the company’s long established tradition of leading product and market innovation.

Best selling brands Fiorelli, Fred Bennett and D4Diamond offer a wide range of products, making Gecko a one-stop supplier. These are in addition to the very successful own brand ranges.

Although previous exposure to the Jewellery trade isn’t essential, you must have gained proven sales experience in a relevant sector – such as luxury Goods, giftware or FMCG – and must be familiar with using, introducing and refining analytical business processes.

An innovative, results-orientated approach, backed by the ability to think critically and outside of the box with a confident outgoing attitude about customers, markets, products and the wider business context, is essential.

On the people front, you will be capable of leading from the front, influencing others both within and beyond the business, as well as building effective working relationships at all levels in widely differing environments. You must understand the process fully from product concept to end consumer.

An additional European language or Chinese would be a distinct advantage.

International travel will be an essential part of this role.

To apply please send a detailed CV with covering letter and details of your current package to: michelle.stuart@domino-wb.co.uk

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior MERCHANDISER – BRAND SOUTH YORKSHIRE – Competitive Salary DOE Our client is a leading brand supplying intimate apparel and swimwear to the UK and International markets. They have a great opportunity for a Merchandiser to be the primary contact for assigned UK Key accounts. Responsible for assessing and identifying customer needs. Coordinating with all parts of the business to ensure all requirements are satisfied. Attending meetings with the Sales Director/ Manager to ascertain customer requirements. Reporting on customers KPI analysis and raising any issues. You must understand the product range and have a good knowledge of the relevant technical aspects of the product.

SALES AND LICENSING EXECUTIVE MANCHESTER – Competitive Salary Our client is a leading supplier of character nightwear to the UK high street. They are currently looking for a Sales and Licensing Executive to maintain and develop new sales of products, designs and licensees in accordance with agreed business plans and individual targets.

Negotiating price, quantity and delivery requirements with customers. Managing accounts to ensure the required sales targets are achieved. You must have 2 years experience in a Senior Account Manager role within the Clothing Industry and be willing to undertake travel throughout the UK/abroad.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657103’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657449’

TECHNICAL MANAGER COLOMBO, SRI LANKA – Attractive Salary + Tax Free An excellent opportunity has arisen for a Technical Manager to join a leading manufacturer of Lingerie.

Responsible for quality raw material used for development through to bulk. Ensure the balance of fit and aesthetics are correct and followed from 1st sample through to bulk.

Provide guidance to all the technicians to accomplish both the technical requirements on products as well as the delivery requirements of samples. Min of 3 years experience in lingerie garment manufacturing, bras, knickers and camisole supplying the UK markets, is essential.

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISERS LONDON, SOUTH EAST AND BIRMINGHAM – £Attractive We are looking for clothing, jewellery & fashion merchandisers to assist with the development of the merchandising departments in various high street companies throughout the South East, Midlands and London. You will be: Supporting the Merchandiser and contributing to the range plan. Forecasting and analysing sales performance. Liaising with the buying, logistics and distribution teams. Have excellent communication and numerical skills.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657483’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657694’

APPAREL BUYING MANAGER - LUXURY LIFESTYLE NORTH OF ENGLAND – to £70,000 A dream career move is on offer for an experienced Buying / Category / Product Manager, with premium fashion experience, across all genders and specialist knowledge of womens knitwear and midlayers (jersey and woven). You will manage, develop and further enhance the clothing range of this world famous Brit brand, synonymous with quality, style and with deep seated heritage.

FREELANCE TECHNICAL SPECIALIST IN FASHION – LUXURY AND PREMIUM LONDON, ENGLAND – Negotiable Our clients are some of the most famous global brands, as well as cutting edge emerging designers, operating in both Women’s and Men’s Ready To Wear. If you have exceptional technical skills and a track record of working in a luxury environment as a Pattern Cutter, Seamstress, Garment Technologist or Sample Cutter, we would love to hear from you! You are flexible team player, have a keen eye for detail and you are a confident communicator who adapts easily to a variety of environments.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657446’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657084’

MARKETING EXECUTIVE WEST MIDLANDS – Competitive Salary

PRODUCT DEVELOPER/GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON – Competitive

A fantastic opportunity has arisen to join a long-established, well-respected wholesale, brand & also non-branded company.

This highly successful company has an immediate opportunity for an experienced Digital Marketing Executive to assist the Marketing Communications Manager to develop & maintain their European and B2b websites. You will be responsible for tracking all projects to ensure they are completed within agreed budget guidelines as well as being effective & impactful of the brand across all company websites & all digital campaigns. You will be working with the digital agency & internal digital teams based in the UK & USA. To be considered for this role you must have proven experience within a similar digital marketing role including website development working with CMS, CRM and database driven systems.

Rapha is a leading brand of premium road cycling clothes and accessories. With headquarters in London UK, the business sells products directly to the most discerning road cyclists around the World from its web site www.rapha.cc. Rapha is a fast growing business with a rapidly increasing apparel based product offering. The current range also includes luggage, small leather goods, skincare, music, publishing and travel services. Due to the continued expansion of the product range Rapha is now looking to appoint a garment technologist to work on a broad range of cycling apparel This will include cycling jerseys, gilets and jackets. This is an excellent opportunity for an established product developer/garment technologist to progress their career in a specialist product area and play a central role in the development team at Rapha.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657445’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656948’

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Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

AREA SALES MANAGER (THE SOUTH & MIDLANDS) UK - Excellent salary + bens based on experience The primary focus for this role will be the development of the territory of retailers in the south and Midlands, therefore a clean, valid driving license is a must. Proven field sales experience of 1-2 years and a track record of driving growth of accounts are needed. A confident and dynamic individual, you will maximise all sales opportunities throughout this region by adopting a very positive and pro-active approach, whilst monitoring and driving sell-thru throughout the season. As Brand Ambassador you will work with the Marketing team at Head Office in Manchester, producing training and running incentives for key retailers.

SENIOR TAILORING DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive Leading manufacturer of Ladies fashion tailoring with our own factories in Vietnam and head office in London. Producing ladies fashion tailoring for both the UK high street retailers and overseas. Due to further growth, we are looking for the following personnel: Senior Tailoring Designer. An exciting opportunity has arisen within our company for an experienced Tailoring Designer. We are looking for a highly motivated, creative individual with a minimum of five years’ experience. You should be methodical with great attention to detail, in addition to a working knowledge of current fashion trends. Applicants must be motivated, hard working, organised and a team player.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657733’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657583’

ADMIN ASSISTANT LONDON – Negotiable Admin Assistant required for a busy Fashion Accessory Company. This is an excellent opportunity to join an established team within one of the largest UK suppliers of fashion Accessories and grow your skills and experience. You must have worked in a similar role and be ready for the fast paced environment. Candidate must be highly organized, analytical, pro-active, and have the ability to mutli-task. You will be assisting on key accounts therefore excellent communication skills are essential. As well as attention to detail. Based near London Bridge, the job role includes: Managing orders. Uploading approved test reports. Ordering packaging. General admin duties and working closely with the account managers.

FASHION ACCESSORIES DESIGNER LONDON –Negotiable An exciting opportunity has arisen for a Fashion Accessories designer to join the team one of the UK’s leading Fashion Accessory Companies supplying the major UK High Street retailers. Based near London Bridge, the role will involve: Identifying future fashion trends and interpreting these for our high street customers. Experience in knitwear design, printed/woven textiles , strong technical design skills and understanding of accessories in general. Be self motivated, confident with excellent communication skills. Have strong CAD skills, including Illustrator and Photoshop. Assist with presentations of collections when required to customers.

Liase with the Account Managers/Buyers regarding range building and development of products.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656953’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656951’

PRICER LONDON – Competitive salary, very good bonus and great clothing benefits

GENERAL MANAGER LONDON – Competitive salary, very good bonus and great clothing benefits

We are looking for an experienced and talented Pricer who has a very keen interest in Vintage Clothing. This position will be an integral part of our web team. Responsibilities and Expectations: Proactively gather market and pricing intelligence. Manage pricing procedures and changes. Provide timely and accurate pricing in response to changes in market conditions. Drive continuous improvement to the price management structure. Conduct analysis on effectiveness of any changes in pricing. Make recommendations on new pricing initiatives based on past historical data. Makes effective use of pricing knowledge and experience. Effective communication style with a demonstrated ability to work effectively in a team environment.

Established in 1986 Rokit Ltd Is a strong and influential brand with 4 bricks & mortar stores as well as an ecommerce platform.

Rokit is looking for a talented and experienced general manager to take full responsibility for this growing company.

This position reports to the Directors. The ideal candidate must have/be: Ideally 3 years experience in retail management, and 3 years experience in a leadership role with a solid track record of developing and maintaining a strong team environment – currently 65. Excellent leadership skills. Strong analytical skills.

Strong verbal communication skills. Strategic thinker with an eye on the big picture. Experience with e-commerce would be advantageous. People focussed and keen to drive the business through individuals.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657286’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2654727’

SENIOR PR EXECUTIVE – FOOTWEAR FINCHLEY, LONDON – Very attractive + excellent benefits + bonus

Pentland Brands was founded in the 1930’s in Liverpool by the current CEO’s grandparents. It started life as a small shoe business and has grown into the UK’s leading global brand management group in sports, outdoor and fashion. Our culture is people centred, and the work environment reflects and supports this. The Pentland values are at the heart of what we do and how we interact with the world around us. Purpose: To develop Ted Baker and Kickers PR strategies and plans, that generates quality exposure of our brands to consumer and the trade, to ultimately drive awareness and sales. To manage the launch of Ted Baker and Kickers seasonal collections. To oversee the Kickers social media strategy and plans.

WHOLESALE SALES MANAGER MAYFAIR, CENTRAL LONDON – £40,000 or above, depending on experience Established in 1805, luxury British heritage brand Crombie has three UK stores, and now sells wholesale into high end department stores in over 30 countries. The company is seeking an experienced Sales Manager to join our Wholesale team. The manager will work in close collaboration with the Head of Wholesale, in establishing and implementing the wholesale strategy, to manage and grow existing accounts, and build relationships with new and existing clients. The position requires someone who is experienced, ambitious, customer focused and with existing contacts internationally.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657573’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657410’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox NOVEMBER 2 2013

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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

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GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

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Manufacturing GARMENT LABELS

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

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Fabric sourcing and design services available. email: info@sirioustextile.bg’

CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com

We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

Huntley International

Myanmar/Burma granted duty free status by the EU Looking for manufacturing services and would like to take advantage of this new duty free status?

Huntley International are a manufacturing company with offices in London, New York, Seoul, Hong Kong and a factory in Myanmar producing ladies/men’s outerwear, suiting and casualwear for major retail companies.

Utilising Huntley International will allow you to benefit from these duty free rates, significantly reducing your manufacturing costs.

For more information please contact Howard Lipman or Ronnie Poole: howard@huntley-international.com, ronnie1224@me.com, Tel 0207 739 0551 NOVEMBER 2 2013

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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

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SUPPLIERS OF TOP QUALITY EUROPEAN LININGS 90 Colours in stock 140 colours available on request Poly-wool suitings, dress & fashion fabrics We buy all redundant/obsolete fabrics & trimmings Immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection Collection from small to large quantities UK & WORLDWIDE COLLECTIONS CONTACT TEL: 01274 727 069 FAX: 01274 390 407 EMAIL: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

GB Wholesale Ltd Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

JEANS BUTTONS

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

Huma Fabrics

To MESSRS

www.drapersonline.com

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

ORDER No.

A/C No.

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

Contact: 07903368616

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

Notice board STOCK WANTED

FREELANCE SERVICES

AUTHORISED

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL...

Established 1973 Established 1973

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – PAYMENT LSS Services Unit 6 STOCK WANTED Atlas Business Centre We are theOxgate UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer Lane clothing, shoesNW2 and accessories.

London 7HJ Tel: 020 8208 0404 EARN ££££’s Today Fax: 020 8208 4414 Mixed bundles, current or past season stock@lssservices.co.uk

• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

01923 800074

theoffice@salvageliquidator.com

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Drapers / NOVEMBER 2 2013

ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

Childrens, Ladies and Mens.

N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk

Stockroom clearance is our speciality Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

www.fashionwanted.co.uk

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

FREELANCE SERVICES

collections. No minimum / maximum.

buying@fashionwanted.co.uk 01423 872868

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com www.drapersonline.com

D ATAG R A F LT D

Very experienced sample machinist of 18 years seeks part time or freelance work.

Contact Ann 07979595711 Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience.

Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service.

Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695 Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best.

Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual.

Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

The Pattern Room LTD email: thepatternroom@gmail.com tel: 0758 367 4411

EXPERIENCED HANDS TO MAKE YOUR SAMPLES AND PATTERNS

An efficient and reliable service for your sampling needs

www.drapersonline.com

EXPERIENCED QUALITY CONTROLLER

Louise James

Provides reliable, professional & flexible employment as follows: • HOLIDAY COVER • SICKNESS COVER • • MATERNITY COVER • • ADDITIONAL SUPPORT DURING BUSY PERIODS • • UNTIL A PERMANENT ROLE IS FILLED • • FROM 1 DAY TO 6 MONTHS • Tel: 07930 485588 | Email: j1lou@btinternet.com

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

DESIGN SOURCING PRODUCTION

LEATHER ACCESSORIES

Worldwide garments exporter and apparel Buying House from Bangladesh, looking for retailers, wholesalers and importers from UK. SZ Vision offers expertise and experience in an established competitive network of factories built over 10 years in business, we offer our customers: Reliability, quality, value, product diversity with state of the art facilities.

PRODUCING EXCELLENT, HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR HIGH STREET RETAILERS Creative in-house Designers working alongside an experienced Quality Control Crew assure the delivery of great products at competitive prices backed up by a very professional Back Office and Administration Team

Competitive pricing Quality On-time delivery GUARANTEE Latest fashion trends Ethical sourcing

CONTACT: Sohel Mollah Gha-129, Middle Badda, Ground Floor, Dhaka-1212 Mobile: +8801912001164 Email: szvisionintl@gmail.com Web: www.szvisionintl.com

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT ANDREW OWEN ON MOBILE 07757 362969 e-mail info@accessory-heaven.co.uk website www.accessory-heaven.co.uk

NOVEMBER 2 2013

Drapers \

39

MY FASHION LIFE

Michelle Obama wearing Asos Africa on a number of occasions is certainly top of the career highlights list

Fashion tribe: Hamer (top left) and pieces from Asos Africa’s autumn 13 collection

Claire Hamer

Asos’s sustainable fashion manager on creating a range straight out of Africa and making ethical fashionable

A

Interview by GRAEME MORAN

sos Africa’s eighth collection has just launched for autumn 13 – tell us about the range.

We launched our Asos Africa brand in spring 10 with a burst of East African kangas and kitenges (colourful printed wraparound garments) which we sourced from markets in Kenya. Throughout the seasons we’ve stayed close to African heritage, be that working with local artisans in Kenya or Nigeria or taking inspiration from our frequent visits to see our manufacturing partners. The brand was created in 2009 during a visit to Soko, a newly created clothing production social enterprise

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in Kenya. The collection is designed by our in-house design team, then cut and manufactured

by Soko.

What does your role as sustainable fashion manager at Asos entail? I was a conventional fashion buyer for 10 years before specialising in product sustainability three years ago. I manage our product sustainability programme. My role supports the buying and design teams to source more sustainably.

Why do you think sustainable fashion often had derogatory ‘hippy’ connotations? I feel this may have been true a few years ago but as an industry we’ve really moved on. This means it is being built into core business objectives of the

industry’s biggest players. In the past, sustainable fashion products often put sustainability before design as they had no choice. There wasn’t the variety of materials on the market and those that were sourcing them came up against crippling minimums and costs.

What’s the best thing about your job?

The variety. One day I might be meeting with marketing to brainstorm how we can engage the customer, another I’ll be at a roundtable meeting with other retailers discussing product sustainability initiatives and how to collaborate.

I may then be in Kenya visiting Soko to go through the latest collection.

And the worst? Definitely the slow pace of change in the industry in terms of sustainability.

As a buyer I’m used to a fast-paced environment.

What companies do you admire in terms of sustainability? Both Marks & Spencer and H&M for their approach to embedding product sustainability into their retail teams.

Both also do a decent job of communicating sustainability to their customers, even better at a corporate level.

What’s been your career highlight so far?

Michelle Obama wearing Asos Africa on a number of occasions is certainly top of the list, followed by the opportunity to specialise in product sustainability in a fast-fashion company – there aren’t many product sustainability or sustainable fashion managers.

As you’re pregnant with twins, what are your thoughts on maternitywear? There is a huge opportunity in maternity fashion, a specialist area I feel will develop further. The greatest opportunity is selling products that have a life after pregnancy, which isn’t being done at mass-market level as yet.

And how about babywear? Fruji and Toby Tigers’ organic selection are on my wish list and I’ll be looking to wrap my twins in Cocobaci’s Crafted in the UK blankets. For everything else I’ll be reusing my two-year-old daughter’s wardrobe.

What do you do in your spare time? I’ve just moved house, so if I’m not walking in Epping Forest then I’m on the iPad searching for homeware and furniture for the house.

If you weren’t working in fashion what would you be doing? At university I was considering a career in hotel management. Had this happened I’m sure I would have found my way into the interiors side sharpish. I can’t be far from products – their aesthetic, function and background stories – for very long.

NovemBeR 21 Old Billingsgate, lOndOn

Be seen at the fashion retail industry’s event of the year Join us at our new venue, Old Billingsgate on November 21 to: · Celebrate the achievements of the UK’s best fashion retailers · Network with all the important players

Contact

· Be seen to be part of the fashion retailing elite

To book your table George Thornton 020 7391 4530 george.thornton@emap.com

 TABleS ARe Now limiTeD

To become a sponsor Rebecca Soni 020 3033 2958 rebecca.soni@emap.com

Book your table today by calling 020 7391 4530 or visit drapersawards.co.uk

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