Drapers 060713 combined

JULY 6 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com

MILAN MENSWEAR commercial looks ruled the catwalks

Snappy dresser Lacoste’s José Luis Duran vows to take a bigger bite of the market IN-DEPTH Bill Grimsey

versus Mary Portas on the UK high street / P6

SHOPWATCH Nutmeg

kidswear aims to spice up Morrisons / P16

STITCH PREVIEW The

brands to see at this month’s show / P27

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THE WEEK Drapers COVER CREDIT: ROBERTO FRANKENBERG

Lacoste holds court as menswear gets in the swing

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson

With the Wimbledon finals taking place this weekend, it’s rather timely that we have an interview with the chief executive of Lacoste, who spoke to us courtside at Roland Garros in Paris about the brand’s plans for its 80th anniversary, which include further international expansion.

Away from the tennis, the men’s buying season is now in full swing, with coverage from the catwalks in Milan (p22) and a preview of trade show Stitch (p27).

Kidswear is also on the agenda with our report from Florence show Pitti Bimbo (p28).

Also on kidswear, we pay a visit to Morrisons in Camden, where the supermarket has unveiled its new junior clothing line, Nutmeg. Our stores editor gives his verdict on p16.

Finally, we dissect two campaigns to save the high street, one from Mary Portas and another from Bill Grimsey. Are they different enough? Do we need two? Whose are you backing? Let us know by contributing online at www.drapersonline.com – it’s free to subscribers, just log in using your subscriber number.

Next week we publish the first of our bumper seasonal specials. If you like menswear, you’ll love this.

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 06.07.13 REGULARS

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Richard Breeden, 020 3033 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705.

Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

20

2_ News Our edit of the week’s top stories, including Peter Ruis’s departure from John Lewis, and Fenwick Bond Street 6_ In-Depth Can Bill Grimsey’s proposals improve upon Mary Portas’s efforts to save the British high street?

8_ Opinion Comment from retail expert Clare Rayner and Leonie Howe, managing director of indie Berties 10_ Fashion Index The latest trading info from the UK and around the world 29_ Careers Talking business nous with H&M ladies merchandiser Elizabeth Sharp

DIRECTIONS

27

40_ This Fashion Life Fashion consultant Yasmin Sewell on her new pop-up shop FEATURES

14_ Close-Up Lacoste chief executive José Luis Duran talks big birthdays and international success 17_ Shopwatch Can Morrisons’ kidswear range rival other supermarket brands?

18

18_ This Week’s Hero Womenswear label Blesse’d Are The Meek isn’t shy about cracking the UK market 19_ The Buzz Hot trends and brands including men’s swimwear, art prints and sports attire 20_ Style Council Buyers reveal what they look for when stocking a menswear brand 22_ Milan Menswear Sports tailoring and workwear were key trends at last month’s catwalk shows 27_ Stitch Preview A first look at the streetwear offer from brands exhibiting at this year’s show 28_ Pitti Bimbo The Florentine kidswear show featured French styling and junior streetwear

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 1

_Ana Santi, deputy editor

News

Key signings bolster Fenwick Bond St team / Department stores /

Department store plunders Selfridges, My-Wardrobe.com and Coggles in revamp of senior line-up

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 2

By Catherine Neilan

Former senior members of staff from Selfridges, My-Wardrobe.com and Coggles are coming together as part of a major new team at Fenwick of Bond Street.

Selfridges’ former menswear buying manager Adam Kelly has taken the role of fashion and beauty director under his former boss David Walker-Smith, who left the rival department store to become managing director at the Bond Street store in December.

Kelly was one of several big names to quit Selfridges in May, after the retailer delivered its annual bonus.

Others included director of menswear Anita Barr, who has yet to resurface in another role, and head of online Zia Zareem-Slade, who is now customer experience director at grocery department store Fortnum & Mason in London.

In his new role, Kelly will “redefine and curate” the product offer across all areas of the store, particularly focusing on womenswear and beauty.

Meanwhile, My-Wardrobe.com senior buyer Georgina Coulter is joining as buying manager for Fenwick Bond Street’s first floor. She will report into Kelly from September.

‘Our new buying and retail talent will continue to add vitality and agility to the business’ David Walker-Smith, managing director, Fenwick Bond Street

Double impact: the Bond Street store’s buying team will be strengthened by the arrival of Laura Gilbert (top) and Adam Kelly

Laura Gilbert, assistant womenswear buyer at York premium indie Coggles until it entered administration in May, and one of this year’s Drapers’ 30 Under 30 rising stars of fashion retail, is joining the business as buyer for the designer floor. She will report into designer buying manager Craig Hewitt.

The trio will work alongside Julia Reardon, who joins as store manager from Apple, where she was store leader at its Watford Harlequin Centre outlet.

She was previously head of retail at Liberty and prior to that group general manager for Kurt Geiger, Selfridges.

Reardon, who will report to WalkerSmith, will focus on structure and service, both back and front of house, including personal shopping.

Lastly, Mia Fenwick is joining from Fenwick Brent Cross, taking on the role of buying manager for beauty.

The department store said the hires marked “strengthening of the buying team by both expanding on their current roles and introducing key talent”.

Walker-Smith added: “People are key to the development of our business and every single member of our team has a vital part to play in evolving Fenwick’s unique position on Bond Street.

“As the world becomes a smaller place, loyal customers look to brands like Fenwick of Bond Street to continually innovate so that our multi-brand edit space looks fresh and feels different.

“We’re small enough to be flexible and relevant, and our new buying and retail talent will continue to add vitality and agility to the business,” he added.

From strength to strength? What does the future hold for Fenwick? See www.drapersonline.com/blogs

/ Exhibitions /

Footfall slips but buyers tuck into Bread & Butter

By Jill Geoghegan

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

News in Numbers

1,400

WORK PLACEMENTS CREATED BY M&S FOR PEOPLE AGED 16 TO 25

8%

RISE IN REVENUES AT N BROWN FOR 17 WEEKS TO JUNE 29

Props galore: B&B’s stands turned heads

Seek’s roster once again had a strong selection of premium streetwear brands and its stands were busy.

Premium was “rammed” with buyers, according to Sach Kukadia, co-founder and buying director of etailer Secret Sales, who described the show as “the pick of the bunch”. “Premium really stood out for me,” he said. “There is a really interesting brand mix.” l For news on trends from the Berlin shows see next week’s issue, out on July 13.

£6.8m

AMOUNT LVMH FINED FOR NOT REVEALING ITS GROWING STAKE IN RIVAL HERMÈS

16 PIECES IN EUDON CHOI’S RIVER ISLAND COLLABORATION

/ Luxury /

Nicole Farhi calls in administrators Nicole Farhi has plunged into administration after several turbulent years at the luxury label.

The retailer appointed Zolfo Cooper as administrator on Wednesday, according to Drapers’ sister publication Retail Week.

It is rumoured that eponymous designer Nicole Farhi could be in the running to buy the company back.

In recent years the company has seen a series of management and ownership changes. Founded in 1982 by French Connection boss Stephen Marks and his former partner Farhi, it was sold to US private equity firm OpenGate Capital in

2010 for around £5m. OpenGate sold its stake to private equity group Kelso Place in January 2012, with Kelso pledging to invest £15m in the business over the next five years.

In May, chief executive François Steiner resigned “due to circumstances that require him to spend time in Paris”, according to the group. Steiner had only been with the business since May 2012.

Sion Kearsey, managing director of Kelso Place, and Nicole Farhi creative director Joanna Sykes took over the day-to-day management of the business after Steiner’s departure.

£900m

UNRECOVERABLE DEBT OWED

BY FASHION RETAILERS GOING OUT OF BUSINESS IN PAST FIVE YEARS

2,700

SIZE IN SQUARE FOOT OF NEW SCOTCH & SODA STORE OPENING ON CARNABY STREET

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 3

Trade show Bread & Butter’s decision to introduce a €500 (£424) fee for non-buyers seems to have dampened footfall, but brands spoke of quality trumping quantity.

The Berlin streetwear show revealed in May that it was to charge up to 2,000 service providers, including fabric dealers and real estate companies, to enter this season’s spring 14 edition.

As Drapers went to press on Wednesday, there were anecdotal reports that footfall had taken a hit, with estimates that visitor numbers were down about 30% on last year.

However, Jason Denham, founder of denim brand Denham, told Drapers there had been a “high quality of international buyers” visiting its stand, ready to spend money on “strong investment pieces”.

Although there appeared to be more empty floorspace at the show, the brands exhibiting had invested in eye-catching installations and the occasional prop to stand out from the crowd, including motorbikes, aeroplane models and a Brooks Brothers lemonade stand.

Berlin’s other shows also offered something new for buyers. Capsule served up a range of brands looking to enter the UK, including shirt brand Saint Paul with its quirky printed designs.

BERLIN LIVE ALL THE LATEST NEWS AND INSIGHT FROM DRAPERS’ TEAM ON THE GROUND

/

People /

NEWS

John Lewis brand director Peter Ruis steps down...

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 4

By Catherine Neilan

Peter Ruis has been hailed as the driving force behind John Lewis’s growth in the fashion market as he leaves to join Jigsaw as chief executive.

Ruis, who joined the department store chain as head of menswear in 2005, was promoted twice during his nine years – first to buying director of fashion and then to buying and brand director.

Since 2005, John Lewis’s market share for fashion (excluding footwear) has grown from 1.5% of the market, valued at £32.3bn, to 2.1% of £39.7bn in 2013, according to Verdict Retail – an estimated rise of £349.2m.

Financial analysts, brands and colleagues praised Ruis for the impact he made on the retailer.

Whistles chief executive Jane Shepherdson said that under Ruis, John Lewis had been “very single-minded

/

about what it wanted to achieve, very consistent, with a very clear strategy”.

“He has done a very good job. It’s a shame he is leaving and it would be a shame if John Lewis changed its strategy now, because it’s just about to bear fruit,” Shepherdson said.

Verdict Retail analyst Honor Westnedge said Ruis had left John Lewis in “a strong position”.

She said: “Peter has done an amazing

‘John Lewis has been very singleminded about what it wanted to achieve’ Jane Shepherdson, chief executive, Whistles

job reinventing the fashion offer at John Lewis over the past five years, bringing in new brands and strengthening its own brands. It’s a good time for him to move on.”

Ruis is to be replaced by home buying director Paula Nickolds. Although her name did not resonate with some in the industry, Westnedge said: “It is a good succession plan – she knows the business, she knows what he has been doing, so she can take the reins and I don’t think the shopper will notice.”

John Lewis managing director Andy Street was also full of praise. “Peter has revolutionised our fashion, home and technology offer and led our marketing team to its first ever [advertising awards] Cannes Lions win,” Street said. “We will all be sad to see him go and wish him the very best of luck for his new role.”

In joining premium retailer Jigsaw, Ruis fills a role that has effectively been vacant since Des Swan left in 2011.

Jigsaw has since been managed by joint chairmen and chief executives John Robinson and Charles Atterton.

It is understood the pair will step back from executive responsibilities when Ruis joins in September. Ruis described Jigsaw as “iconic”, adding that it “has huge untapped potential”.

This story was broken first online.

For more breaking news, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

Department stores /

...as Temperley joins higher-end lingerie offer

By Catherine Neilan

John Lewis is looking to steal market share in lingerie and nightwear with a refreshed offer including designer Alice Temperley’s debut underwear collection for autumn 13.

Temperley’s 23-piece lingerie range – an extension of her Somerset women’s diffusion line – includes four bra and knicker sets, available in silk or lace, chemises in vintage-inspired lace and masculine tailored silk pyjamas.

The “hero piece” is a £145 black sleeveless silk jumpsuit, but the range also includes gifting lines such as eye masks. John Lewis’s fitting team has worked with Temperley to ensure the range meets the “holy grail” standard.

John Lewis womenswear buying director Jo Hooper said the move was

Alice in slumberland: Temperley range includes nightwear and eye masks

about “making John Lewis lingerie a destination”. It follows the addition of several new brands to the department.

“The view of lingerie before has been a bit functional – this is about changing that perception,” she told Drapers. “With Wacoal and DKNY in there too, it’s about repositioning us for the customer.”

Hooper said there was “definitely some overlap” with Marks & Spencer – which has lost womenswear market share to John Lewis over the past couple of years – but that the Somerset lingerie collection was more in line with premium brands.

“We feel there is a huge opportunity in this part of the market,” Hooper said.

“With the Somerset range we are turning up the volume and personality of our own-brand product.”

Young fashion /

Rampant creates Heritage range

Reinvention: Ruis has been credited with winning a greater fashion market share

Sports lifestyle brand Rampant Sporting has launched a premium heritage collection for spring 14.

Rampant Heritage comprises a “more considered” offer with a focus on “detail and quality fabrics”. Richard Hurtley, managing director of owner Rampant Brands, said the Rampant Sporting label was “underachieving” by only having a sports-inspired line.

“We always felt like we were missing an opportunity with just having one collection,” he told Drapers. “The addition of Rampant Heritage means we can appeal to a wider account base.”

The Heritage range includes shirts, blazers and cable-knit jumpers for men, while the women’s collection is underpinned by floral fabrics.

Wholesale prices go up to £39.60 for the Heritage range, while the Sporting line is priced from £10 to £27.60.

Hurtley said the new collection would help drive Rampant’s international appeal as it further develops its “story of British heritage”. Rampant Sporting is currently in 40 stores in the UK and Germany, but hopes to expand to 60 outlets for spring 14 including a “small selection” in Europe.

INDIVIDUAL APPROACH LACOSTE’S CHIEF EXECUTIVE ON TAILORING ITS OVERSEAS EXPANSION p14

News in Brief Deflation accelerates after Sales

Clothing deflation increased to 6.7% in June compared with the same month in 2012, as a result of widespread promotions and discounting. Clothing and footwear pushed the British Retail Consortium’s Shop Price Index to -0.2% – its deepest level of deflation since 2007.

Solid team launches women’s label The firm behind men’s young fashion brand Solid is launching a womenswear label for spring 14. Desire will include jeans, T-shirts, knits, outerwear and leather. Wholesale prices range from £4 to £25 with a three-times mark-up.

New chief executive for YSL

Yves Saint Laurent has appointed Francesca Bellettini as its new chief executive. Bellettini joins the French fashion house from Bottega Veneta – also owned by parent company Kering – where she is an executive director. She will succeed Paul Deneve in September.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 5

/

Retailers call for rates rethink

Sir Philip Green is among several highprofile retailers calling for an overhaul of the business rates system to support struggling high streets. The Arcadia boss called for a rates freeze and a rates holiday for small shop owners. Separately, retailers including John Lewis, Tesco and Sainsbury’s have urged the Government to “rebalance” the system.

Architect Dame Zaha Hadid has designed a pair of limited edition women’s shoes for footwear brand United Nude. Hadid has developed a system that allows the 16cm heel to appear completely unsupported.

To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8858 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs

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IN-DEPTH

How does Grimsey’s vision differ from the Portas plan?

Ex-Iceland and Focus DIY boss Bill Grimsey says he is putting together a more “radical” set of proposals for saving the UK high street than those put forward

by Mary Portas in her 2011 review. We examine the two arguments

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 6

Words by CATHERINE NEILAN

T

o be fair to Bill Grimsey, he hasn’t actually published a set of proposals for rescuing high streets, but he has given a strong indication of what he intends to do. Mary Portas argues that much of what he has said so far is very similar to her own recommendations. Grimsey has acknowledged that he will build on what she has already done, but take a more “radical” approach. Here we compare the Queen of Shops’ 2011 Portas Review with what Grimsey told Drapers.

1

PORTAS SAID “Put in place a

‘Town Team’: a visionary, strategic and strong operational management team for high streets.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Town teams are good things in that they have enthusiastic people behind them, but they have no guidelines to work to. One town had 200 members, all of whom had a vote – that won’t work. Our town centre commissions, as we will call them, will be properly structured and people on them will have a skill base that is properly defined. The methodology will help to produce a unique business plan for that town.”

2

PORTAS SAID “Establish a new ‘National Market Day’ where budding shopkeepers can try their hand at operating a low-cost retail business.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Let’s ditch this

sentimental focus on shopping and consumption and start planning for a future that works for everybody.”

3

PORTAS SAID “Make it easier for people to become market traders by removing unnecessary regulations so that anyone can trade on the high street unless there is a valid reason why not.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Saving town centres as a destination from a shopping point of view is not the right way to approach this.”

4

PORTAS SAID “Government should consider whether business rates can better support small businesses and independent retailers.”

GRIMSEY SAID “If the rates system is not working, then let’s prove where it is not working and why. But we need to balance the books through making radical changes.”

7

PORTAS SAID “Local areas should implement free controlled parking schemes that work for their town centres and we should have a new parking league table.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Parking has been identified as a problem but nothing has been done about it. I’m not going to give any statements today but it has to be quite radical – it can’t be free parking between 10 and four, because who is going to pay for it? In isolation, it won’t work.”

GRIMSEY SAID “That’s going to make diddly squat difference.”

8

PORTAS SAID “Local authorities should use their new discretionary powers to give business rate concessions to new local businesses.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Let’s not wait while things get worse – let’s get legislation to address it today.”

PORTAS SAID “Town teams should focus on making high streets accessible, attractive and safe.”

GRIMSEY SAID “The future town will need a whole host of accommodation, it will need to be pedestrianised, it will need things like health centres, entertainment centres, cultural centres, leisure – things that have vibrancy about them. It should all be focused around the local economy, staying in the local community.”

PORTAS SAID “Make business rates work for business by reviewing the use of the Retail Price Index with a view to changing the calculation to Consumer Price Index.”

“Address the restrictive aspects of the use class system to make it easier to change

5 6

9

PORTAS SAID

GRIMSEY VS PORTAS Whose plans do you think will be more successful? Have your say at www.drapersonline.com/news

“Government should include high street deregulation as part of their ongoing work on freeing up red tape.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Our proposals will most likely include some legislative changes.” the uses of key properties on the high street.”

GRIMSEY SAID “You’ve got 40,000 empty shops, which is a tragic waste, and something needs to happen to them.

But I’m not coming at this from a retailing perspective. If you only approach it from a retail point of view you will fail.”

11

PORTAS SAID

“Introduce secretary of state exceptional sign-off for all new out-of-town developments and require all large new developments to have an affordable shops quota.”

GRIMSEY SAID “The secretary of state has just slapped Mary in the face by allowing this new Tesco to be built on the seafront in Margate. There are acres of empty space in town and you’re completely bonkers if you think you’ll save those units now.”

13

PORTAS SAID

“Encourage a contract of care between landlords and their commercial tenants by promoting the leasing code and supporting the use of lease

12

PORTAS SAID “Large retailers should support and mentor local businesses and independent retailers.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Businesses need to learn from each other.

If you look at the supermarkets, for example, they already have the equivalent of 1 million sq ft of space in virtual land. That’s something like 20 Tesco Extras online today.”

14

/

Talking point /

Industry insiders give their verdict on the high street saviours

PORTAS SAID “Explore further disincentives to prevent landlords from leaving units vacant.”

GRIMSEY Did not comment on this, but he did say: “Whatever we propose will be commercial – it won’t cause a deficit.

I will come up with something that does balance budgets.”

Mary has done a huge amount to highlight the plight of the high street and Bill is helping to keep things in the public eye, but the Government needs to put its money where its mouth is. Until they do something, nothing will change.

Luke Conod, managing director of young fashion indie Fit in Hereford

PORTAS SAID “Run a high-profile campaign to get people involved in neighbourhood plans.”

GRIMSEY SAID “You have to hand plaudits to Mary Portas for the profile she’s given to this if nothing else.”

Mary Portas’s review was good, but she needs more help, she can’t do it all on her own. The Government needs to step up, because the main issue is the high vacancy rates on the high street, which deter many.

Dave Conaghan, co-owner of young fashion indie Chocolate in Derry, Northern Ireland

15

16

PORTAS SAID “Developers should make a financial contribution to ensure that the local community has a strong voice in the planning system.”

GRIMSEY SAID “Macclesfield council has just approved a new shopping centre in the middle of the town. It will end up being an empty space anyway because the Trafford Centre is only 30 minutes away. The only reason they are doing it is because the council bought up land and the developer will buy it from them.”

17

PORTAS SAID: “Run a number of High Street Pilots to test proof of concept.”

GRIMSEY SAID “The pilots have backfired on the Government. My review will hold up a mirror in front of an ugly man; if the ugly man doesn’t like what he sees there is nothing I can do about that.”

CONCLUSION Grimsey has until the autumn to finesse his plans, but as things stand there are already several differences emerging. One area Grimsey differs on is his long-term view – his review will take a 25 to 30-year approach, he says. Many areas – parking, rates, planning – are jointly identified as needing a solution. Grimsey admits he is “not confident” the Government will back his proposals where it hasn’t supported all of Portas’s, but his claims the proposals will balance the books are sure to grab the attention of decisionmakers. He just needs to explain how...

Mary Portas has exposed a great issue: high streets are not plonked in the middle of town and indies are not there just for fun.

Tony Smith, store manager of menswear indie Dartagnan in Chichester, West Sussex With Portas I think part of it is genuine and part is self-promotion, but no matter what she tries to do people advocate change but then do not welcome it. Even if the Government throws a lot of money into high streets – which it isn’t – you still can’t force people to go there.

Darren Hoggett, co-owner of indie J&B Menswear in Norwich Mary Portas’s intentions are good but it is local councils that have to be more helpful. I don’t think a single voice needs to be heard, it needs to come from the Government.

Nigel Binnie, director of menswear indie Northern Threads in South Shields, Tyne & Wear Anything that leads to a positive change has to be welcomed. The trouble with Mary is that some people don’t take her seriously because they think it’s just publicity.

Yvette Davies, owner of womenswear indie Thirty Three Boutique in Lymington, Hampshire

BY GEORGINA CAMPBELL

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 7

10

PORTAS SAID

structures other than upward-only rent reviews, especially for small businesses.”

GRIMSEY SAID “We have to level the playing field for smaller retailers.”

OPINION

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 8

Ruis should prove to be the missing piece in Jigsaw’s puzzle _ Ana Santi

W

hat’s Jigsaw’s position on the high street? Who is its customer? What does the business stand for? After spending the best part of an hour trying – and failing – to answer those questions, it became clear just how inspired Peter Ruis’s appointment as chief executive really is.

Because Ruis will answer those questions for us.

Look at his record at John Lewis. When he joined the department store chain in 2005, no one shopped there for fashion, at least not for proper fashion. A pair of slippers, a bathrobe, a good-quality jumper, yes, but a knockout dress? A sharp suit? Not so much.

Ruis changed all that. He saw (before Marks & Spencer did, thus allowing John Lewis to steal market share) that a 40-something customer cares about the right silhouette, the perfect neckline, an exact shade of orange. That he wants quality design; that she wants novelty. He bought in new brands and launched designer collaborations that sold out in record time. And he presented them in store in an environment that made people want to shop for fashion.

Ruis understood the psyche of the John Lewis shopper so he tapped into it to perfection with those tear-jerking Christmas ads. Ruis turned John Lewis into the high street’s fashion benchmark.

Now he needs to revive Jigsaw.

But Ruis needs to be given complete autonomy to do so. There are still question marks over the exact roles of Charles Atterton and John Robinson, joint chairmen and chief executives since the departure of Des Swan in 2011, but I can’t imagine Ruis would have taken on the chief executive role without executive control. He’s too clever and autonomous for that.

The challenge for Ruis at Jigsaw will be different.

At John Lewis, he created fashion credentials that the department store never had; at Jigsaw the process will be one of revival or reinvention – arguably a more difficult feat.

Jane Shepherdson once said to me that she thought buying an existing brand would be easier than launching a new one, but wasn’t so sure anymore after she bought Whistles. And she’ll be the first to admit that it took a few years to get the retailer to where she wanted. Just look at it now.

Jigsaw is a business with a great heritage and brilliant potential. Ruis is the man to show us just how much.

As Lucy Harris, partner at recruitment firm Heidrick & Struggles, who first placed Ruis at John Lewis, said to me: “Peter could make that brand fantastic. And global. He went to John Lewis when it needed a focus on fashion and everything he touched, he gave it that quantum leap.”

Drapers deputy editor / ana.santi@emap.com

WHAT DO YOU THINK – WILL PETER RUIS PROVE A SUCCESSFUL APPOINTMENT AT JIGSAW? www.drapersonline.com

JOIN THE DEBATE Add your views to the week’s top stories by going to www.drapersonline.com

/ Talking Business /

_ Clare Rayner

I

t never ceases to amaze me that almost precisely when towns are busy with people leaving work, the shops are closing. I think inconvenient opening hours are the primary reason why consumers turn to out-of-town and online alternatives rather than spending on the high street. It’s not that the high street hasn’t got what they want, it’s that everything is closed by the time most people leave the office.

Let’s face it, those with the highest disposable incomes are likely to be working during ‘normal’ opening hours. The sooner retailers do something to acknowledge this, and make the most of it, the better.

The message is getting through for some, though. Retailers are beginning

to realise the importance of creating more of a buzz in their local evening economy. This July (Independent Retailer Month) I’ve been encouraging boutiques to hold evening events in store – blurring the lines between shopping and a night out. Several retailers are staying open later, having live music, drinks and other entertainment in store, creating a sense of occasion.

Let’s hope these prove successful in terms of consumer engagement and increasing sales. Perhaps then more retailers will make a greater effort to engage with the working population, taking a greater slice of their spending as a result.

Retail expert and writer

/ Talking Shop /

‘The trend of the past few years is good old-fashioned service’ _ Leonie Howe

H

aving started our business in a recession in 1993, it’s safe to say trading goes in cycles. Our business bears little resemblance to when we started out but our team of enthusiastic fashion junkies (ranging in age from 17 to 56) are still up for the challenge of what each new season brings. It’s this spirit that has kept us going onward and upward and built our business into what it is today.

If any trend has emerged over the past few years, it’s good old-fashioned service – our client wants to be helped and advised on what she should wear so we offer free personal styling to everyone. We try to create a friendly, unintimidating environment and aim to put a cherry on top too, with bubbly

and cupcakes on hand. It sounds simple but to put it all together takes masses of energy, as any successful business owner will know.

A few years ago, the obvious expansion route was to get another bricks-and-mortar shop but now it’s perhaps the online presence that is more attractive. I can see how daunting the prospect is and the potential pitfalls – namely buying for a client you don’t know, deciding on a budget and sorting out SEO. It’s a minefield but having made many mistakes we seem to be making headway. Here’s to the next 20 years.

Managing director of contemporary womenswear indie Berties in Northampton

VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES

BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

04 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘JD Sports buys Ark out of administration’ – JD will almost certainly change the direction of Ark, as it didn’t work in it’s current format. However, JD has made some odd purchases in the past and this one isn’t all it’s cracked up to be Anonymous

02 Great move by JD. It has just updated its portfolio to cater solely for the student/ university customer. Ark will remain a key destination for the student generation Anonymous

03 ‘SuperGroup tests Chinese market via website’ – The anti-Japanese feeling in China is still strong which could be a problem for the current Superdry branding to work. To test the brand and not make adjustments would stop it from having any chance in the future. Will be interesting to see if the test is done through Tmall or as a standalone Anonymous

04 ‘Graphic designer creates no-logo Lacoste collection’ – Very [Peter] ‘Saville’!

Personally, I think the man can do no wrong, but it’s going to be an ‘acquired taste’ thing!

Anonymous

Online Poll This week’s poll result Has Radley done enough to recover from its recent troubles?

YES

NO

14% 86% This week’s question Will John Lewis suffer without Peter Ruis? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 9

‘Retailers begin to create a buzz in the evening economy’

Fashion INDEX

‘M&S could make its mark where it counts the most’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 10

M

arks & Spencer is launching a new youth employability scheme, Make Your Mark, which will see it set aside 1,400 one-month placements for young people in its stores. Even more importantly, the retailer is also getting its suppliers involved by calling on them to make their own commitments to youth opportunities.

Make Your Mark is actually an expansion of M&S’s previous placement programme, which has taken on 1,100 young people since 2004. The retailer said around 50% of those participants went into employment with M&S or another employer within three months.

Initiatives like these remind us that retailers have the power to influence much more than just the economy.

In the case of M&S, it’s heartening to see a chief executive in Marc Bolland who appreciates the incredible power that a well-known and trusted brand like M&S can wield in terms of corporate social responsibility.

M&S was the first retailer in the world to be carbon neutral and to deliver zero waste to landfill. However, as Bolland rightly points out, many businesses make a lot of effort to drive green growth, support climate change initiatives and reduce waste, but what sense does this make if there are no jobs for the next generation?

Bolland understands the vital role that engagement plays for a successful and sustainable business, whether it’s with customers, employees or in the communities it serves. By engaging with young people in such a practical way, schemes like Make Your Mark not only help people become productive, engaged contributors to society and the workplace but also support the long-term sustainability of the UK economy and society overall.

When the horse meat scandal rocked the grocery sector back in February, Tesco was quick to accept responsibility and lead the call for reforms in this area – and there is no reason why fashion retailers shouldn’t take this same high road in areas like the environment, fair trading practices and youth unemployment.

Bolland may have the chance to do just that. M&S may be struggling to retain its mantle as the bellwether of UK retail but it could end up achieving something even more important. This isn’t just an opportunity for M&S to make its mark but also for Marc to make M&S. Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures

Week 26 – June 24 to June 30, 2013

+0.7%

-4% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The latest report shows a 0.7% week-on-week rise in shopper traffic and a decline of 4% year on year, reflecting the Olympic torch celebrations in many towns last year, which boosted footfall as the torch passed through regions. Each day again showed a single-figure decline on last year. Over the sunny weekend of the 29th and 30th we saw the highest year-on-year declines for the week for Sunday at 6.2% and a slightly lower 4.2% decline for Saturday. Two out of the 11 regions showed a positive increase year on year – Eastern England (3.4%) and Northern Ireland (0.5%).

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending June 30, 2013

-2.74% -3.85% Total fashion

Clothing

-7.27% Footwear

Fashion struggled this week, despite competing against weak comparable figures from 2012.

Both clothing and footwear ended up in negative territory with -2.74% and -7.27% respectively.

For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 9.2% NORTHAMPTON 18.2%

2. Merchandising 6.7% 3. Production 6.2% 4. Buying 5.4%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Retail management 4.6% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – TAILORING The tailoring market is in growth, driven by price hikes and sales in womenswear

£32.54

£1.25bn

Average selling price

Expenditure

+2.5%

+2.6% -0.1%

38.6m

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012

Number of units

40%

+25%

SUPERMARKETS

DISCOUNTERS

INTERNET

MAIL ORDER

DEPT STORES

GENERAL STORES

Kelly Chandaria, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

0% INDIES

Growth in sales of skirts

FASHION CHAINS

Value growth in men’s formal jackets and blazers

The value of the tailoring market grows as shoppers pay higher prices for garments

+10.4%

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● C&A has extended its agreement with its

logistics provider. Kuehne + Nagel will now handle the transfer of packed clothing from factories in southern, central and northern China. The company will also handle quality control for the retailer’s Chinese factories.

SPAIN

CHINA

USA

● FAST RETAILING has revealed that its

Uniqlo Shanghai flagship will dedicate space to some of the retailer’s other brands. The store will feature shop-in-shops for GU, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Princesse Tam Tam and PLS+T, a sub-brand of Theory.

● HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY is said to be INDIA

investigating a purchase of US chain Saks.

The Canadian department store reportedly sees cost savings in consolidating staff, back office and internet arms of its operations.

● VIMAL, the heritage textile brand from

India-based Reliance Industries, plans to renew its focus on fabric with new offerings in fashion and lifestyle after venturing into the ready-made garment sector.

We are taking a new and fresh look in the area of fabrics, which comprise nearly 80% of the textile business Anand Parekh, president of textiles, Reliance Industries

● INDITEX is to relaunch its off-price Lefties

concept with a new look and name. The chain, which sells past-season stock from Zara, will be an independent chain. Lefties has around 100 stores in Spain and Portugal and is currently considered part of Zara.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 11

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Lingerie & men’s accessories LINGERIE

MEN’S ACCESSORIES

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

TOP 10

TOP 10 1

Marie Jo

1

Boss Black

2

PrimaDonna

2

Paul Smith

3

Fantasie

3

Polo Ralph Lauren

4

Triumph

4

Armani Jeans

5

Lise Charmel

5

Gant

6

Aubade

7

Freya

8

Lepel

TAKINGS THIS WEEK +1% year-on-year change

6

Ted Baker

7

Diesel

8

Falke

9

Playtex

9

Happy Socks

10

Pour Moi

10

Boss Green

TOP 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

T-shirt bras

2

Swimwear

3

Lingerie sets

4

Nightwear

5

Briefs

TOP 5

£96 AVERAGE SPEND

£6,914 TAKINGS THIS WEEK +2.8% year-on-year change

TOP 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Belts

2

Socks

3

Wallets

4

Underwear

5

Ties

£126

TOP 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through 1

Fantasie

2

Marie Jo

3 4 5

Week ending June 22, 2013

1

Boss Black

2

Paul Smith

PrimaDonna

3

Armani Jeans

Lepel

4

Gant

Simone Pérèle

5

Gucci

TOP 5

Brands with the best margin

-2.2%

-2.3%

TOP 5

Brands with the best margin

1

Marie Jo

2

PrimaDonna

2

Boss Black

3

Lise Charmel

3

Armani Jeans

4

Fantasie

5

Elle Macpherson Intimates

FOOTFALL Change for week ending June 22, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

1

Paul Smith

4

Gant

5

Gucci

INDIE WATCH

-0.43%

FOOTFALL Change for week ending June 22, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

34 THE BIG NUMBER

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

-3.38%

Week ending June 22, 2013

-7.25%

%

of lingerie indies have noticed an increased demand for shapewear

AVERAGE MONTHLY TAKINGS

PROFIT MARGIN

AVERAGE NUMBER OF UNITS SOLD

Data for May 20 to June 16, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 12

£5,496

CLOSE-UP I JOSÉ LUIS DURAN

Croc monsieur Lacoste chief executive José Luis Duran aims to play on the brand’s sporting heritage and take a bite out of international markets

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 14

Words by IAN WRIGHT Photography by ROBERTO FRANKENBERG

A

s we sit discussing the details of the empire José Luis Duran commands, the Lacoste chief executive is inundated with well-wishers, business partners, acquaintances and family. We’re in the thick of the racket of Roland Garros during the French Open and the weather isn’t playing ball, meaning the Lacoste corporate area is packed with frustrated tennis fans. Duran seems at home among the hubbub; his confidence could be mistaken for Gallic flair was the man not of German-Spanish descent and his favourite player Rafael Nadal, rather than one of the Lacoste-sponsored players.

But this is the only time Duran is off-brand the entire afternoon as he sets out his plan for the future of France’s most iconic sports-fashion brand. Barely six months into his tenure at the head of the croc, Duran has been busy.

“In the medium term it has to be more efficient,” he says of the advantages afforded by parent company Maus Frères’ acquisition of all shares to create single ownership in November last year, valuing the company at about €1bn (£858m). “The difficulty of a brand like ours is to connect everything together,” he continues.

Up until then, Lacoste was still part-owned by descendants of the brand’s founder and famous tennis player René Lacoste, which made high-level decision-making a struggle. “Today is the first time we have a unique, lean team with a unique direction,” Duran adds.

ANDY RUBIN, chief executive of Lacoste’s footwear licensee Pentland (where he predicts the brand’s global retail sales will hit €730m [£626.1m] in 2013, up 26% on 2012), explains that Duran “has established a new executive team in France to help co-ordinate

activities across the brand and drive innovative marketing and product initiatives”. Duran installed this new management team at the beginning of March with the aim of taking Lacoste into new territory, in the face of challenging circumstances. “We have had steady double-digit growth in all previous years,” Duran reveals. “Despite the difficult environment, Lacoste sales will grow again by single digits in 2013 as a result of our action plan.

“There is more coherence – when you put too many people together it is never the right decision,” he adds. On moving over from his job heading up Devanlay, Lacoste’s US licensee, it was clear to Duran – a man Rubin calls “a unifying leader” – that the brand needed more focus. Previously each business area and licensee had its own strategy and direction, but Duran’s new structure has seen that streamlined.

As we sit surrounded by the latest campaign imagery and videos, Duran references the marketing strategy to illustrate his point: “For the first time the brand has a marketing team with a marketing vice-president. Before we had a Lacoste marketing guy, a Devanlay marketing guy, a Pentland marketing guy and everybody was more intelligent than the others,” he says with a wry smile.

Duran believes that in the immediate future this type of approach will deliver efficiencies in-house before giving the customer a better-rounded brand in the medium term.

It is the branding of Lacoste that Duran feels most optimistic about. While Luca Solca, luxury goods analyst at investment firm Exane BNP Paribas, is of the opinion that Lacoste “has a long history, but it faded a lot in recent years”, Duran is eager to look back to the brand’s

history to keep Lacoste moving forward.

Especially in this, its 80th year, which it will be celebrating by launching a raft of special luxury projects with famous fashion houses and graphic designer Peter Saville, known for his sleeve designs for Factory Records.

“Other brands have to invent a fake story and play it much better than we do with our real story,” says Duran, in a nod to the tale of how René’s relentless playing style gave rise to his nickname “the crocodile” and the birth of an iconic logo. “But we should not abuse it,” he says. “It’s about how we bring to a bigger stage our sports heritage, our authenticity, our quality. It’s challenging but if we get it right I think we have huge leverage to play with.”

THIS HERITAGE will be an important part of the brand’s armoury as Duran plots an assault on international markets both new and established. “There are no easy opportunities – we still have room to grow in Turkey, Russia, Brazil and China,” he explains, also citing countries not on the “usual suspect list” such as Indonesia and Mexico, as places where Lacoste has yet to maximise its presence.

However, as a country, the US is the brand’s biggest market, making up 23% of the business. Asia contributes 22% and Latin America 12%, while Europe (not including France) accounts for 32%, with the brand’s home country still representing a sturdy 12%.

“We are doing great in France where we perhaps over-invest in relation to the relative weight of business,” Duran reveals. “But I think if you are not good in your home market you can’t roll out internationally.”

Despite his new overarching management structure, the former Carrefour chief executive is aware that understanding

Drapers / MONTH 00 2012 _ 15 individual markets is vital in order to resonate with the local customer. “This is new for us.

Should we not treat Paris differently to the rest of the country? In China should we not treat Beijing and Shanghai differently?” Duran asks. “Until today we have never spoken about this. All our stores look the same,” he says.

“The consumer and the brand should evolve – the customer doesn’t expect to see the same thing everywhere he goes.”

And he (or she) definitely won’t see the same thing in New York, home of Lacoste’s biannual catwalk show. It is the US city and not Paris that Duran sees as playing a key part in the brand’s future. “I have asked my team, ‘why don’t we treat New York as that place where Lacoste should stand out more in brand positioning terms?’ It will take two to three years but it will be a very interesting project, not just for New York but for the international markets.”

This approach could see Lacoste offer something completely bespoke in the city, working with the clothing teams and the likes

of licensees Pentland and Procter & Gamble to create new upmarket products, as well as potentially scrapping promotions or Sales in an effort to create a new premium brand image.

THIS WILL ALSO be reflected in a new pricing strategy. “Pricing and product go hand in hand, because our customer is asking for value for money,” says Duran. “Our customer is ready to

‘Other brands have to invent a fake story and play it much better than we do with our real story’

pay €130 (£112) for a shirt, but it can’t be a normal ‘me too’ shirt. This is one of the main challenges I’ve given to my new product team: it’s not about pricing it’s about added value.”

Duran believes he can stretch the brand – for example, although 95% of Lacoste’s shirts retail below €100 (£86), his aim is to reduce that to 75%, creating better quality shirts to appeal to a premium audience. “We are three or four seasons away, but we are going to start seeing new things coming in from autumn 14,” he adds.

Next year is set to be a big one for Lacoste.

Duran will unveil a new type of marketing campaign for the company, a new brand promise, a new investment into its retail window displays and a more premium product offer. “The second half of 2014 will be a real moment of truth and [that] is tomorrow morning, it’s not far away,” Duran says. Solca believes Lacoste presents “a formidable challenge and a formidable opportunity”.

With his plans set out, this is one match Duran intends to win.

SHOPWATCH

Nutmeg

_ Morrisons, Camden

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 16

JOHN RYAN is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

A

s the number four player among the big supermarket operators in the UK, Morrisons is perceived as being on the catch-up trail.

It’s certainly the case that when it comes to clothing, this is a retailer that is a considerable distance behind its rivals. As a result Morrisons’ private-label clothing brand Nutmeg, which launched in March, has a lot of ground to make up. Nutmeg is almost entirely about clothing for babies and children up to the age of 13.

There is a small range of “essentials” for adults, but this equates to not much more than underwear, socks and tights with, curiously, jewellery added into the mix.

The offer is now spread across close to 140 Morrisons stores, but it has some way to go if it wants to provide serious competition for the likes of Sainsbury’s, Tesco or Asda.

02

CONCEPT 

Whoever was responsible for the design of the display units in this store might have done well to take a look at how fashion and clothing and displayed in other retailers. The reality for shoppers is that this looks like little more than a response to cost control and volume merchandising, although the graphics package on the end of each unit is enticing. Morrisons is effective at hammering home the price idea while presenting engaging images.

01

VISUAL MERCHANDISING 

Take a range of merchandise, double or triple hang it in open-sided wood-clad wardrobes and then stand back. That’s about as much as has been done with the Nutmeg offer in this large branch of Morrisons. The different parts of the

offer are colour blocked and overhead there is a sign that states ‘girls’ clothing’, ‘boys’ clothing’, ‘baby clothing’ and ‘clothing’. This would be fine, but it is in the same font as the signage indicating where ‘baked beans’ and ‘soup’ can be

found, for example, meaning this feels like just another commodity. At the shelf-edge level, the pictures of children clad in the product are functional and supermarket cute enough, but fail to deliver any kind of call to action.

THE BASICS ADDRESS Chalk Farm Road, Camden, NW1 NUTMEG LAUNCH March 2013 AGE RANGE 0 to 13 years and adult ‘essentials’ AMBIENCE Functional

03

05

OK, so this is a supermarket and service expectations are perforce low. That said, the almost total absence of staff in the area left you wondering just how the department looked so cleanly merchandised with nothing on the floor and almost all of the sizes on display. The perhaps unfair conclusion might be that the offer is not being raked over as regularly as Morrisons might wish and indeed on the midweek day of visiting, getting through the space did not mean being troubled by other shoppers.

Tesco’s F&F, George at Asda and the soon-to-berelaunched Tu range at Sainsbury’s all represent competition for Nutmeg and although Morrisons’ products may measure up, all of its rivals give shoppers a more positive in-store experience. Even at the clothing-ascommodity end of the

Room for improvement 01

Do something about the signage. Selling clothing is not the same as selling baked beans, cakes or dairy products.

Morrisons makes it feel as if it is.

02

Nutmeg will probably work well in a Morrisons-owned Kiddicare environment, but more needs to be done with the clothing area in Morrisons stores.

03

If adult clothing is to be sold in any meaningful way, it probably needs to be made more discrete from the babywear and kidswear, if not entirely separate.

COMPETITION  market, there remains a consumer need to be inspired and the competition does this better. Couple this with the worlds of Primark and New Look, neither of which is more than a 10-minute tube ride away from this store, and Nutmeg may struggle to get away from the starting blocks in Camden.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 17

SERVICE 

04

PRODUCT 

The product in Morrisons Camden is actually good and represents real value for money. There are few who would dispute the prices being charged, which are resolutely low, and the mix of brights, neutrals and branded character prints on the kids’

clothing have real appeal. It would be entirely possible to kit children out and make them look good following a visit to this store. When the move is made into men’s and women’s ‘essentials’ however, this is a doggedly utilitarian offer.

06

VERDICT AN OFFER THAT FAILS TO INSPIRE

This is probably an inopportune moment to try to establish a private label unless money is thrown at the problem. Morrisons has come up with a perfectly respectable offer, but it has opted to do so in the face of slickly merchandised offers from the competition with the great majority being displayed in environments that are the result of long, hard design thought. If shoppers are minded to check this one out, then there is much to commend, but it may be a long shot getting shoppers into the area, 25 50 given what has been done.

To see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

DIRECTIONS

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 18

Abstract floral prints and cut-out detailing feature throughout the resort 14 collection

This week’s hero

BLESS’ED ARE THE MEEK

Australian womenswear brand Bless’ed Are The Meek looks set to crack the UK, following a 50% increase in its international distribution over the past two years.

A favourite at Fashion Week Australia, the brand offers four collections per year. It combines laid-back Aussie style with sexy silhouettes and strong prints. Orders are still being taken for resort 14, while summer 14 opens later this month.

Contact: 020 7349 8887 www.blessedarethemeek.com.au

THE BUZZ Fashion foreword

ON THE RADAR — Franks

/

Game, set and matchy matchy always works

CATWALKING.COM

I

_ Ian Wright

have an incredible Nike T-shirt at home I picked up while doing a little customising for a vintage store in Leeds when I was at uni (those six shots for a fiver in the students’ union bar don’t buy themselves). It’s a boxy cut in white with a simple turquoise Nike tick on the chest. On the back is a spectacular, large illustration of my favourite tennis player ever, Andre Agassi, in mid-service action, surrounded by the requisite 1980s neon flashes and flourishes, presumably denoting some kind of movement.

I got it out the other day – I should have been wearing gloves, really, as it belongs in a museum – and, with Wimbledon coming to a close this weekend, my mind turned to tennis attire.

There was a time when men of the courts dressed like gentlemen. In the 1920s and 1930s, when Fred Perry and René Lacoste were playing, the acceptable uniform was slacks and a shirt. Lacoste’s invention of the polo shirt revolutionised the starchy look. Fast-forward to the 1970s and the idea of tennis whites was still generally accepted.

Borg, McEnroe and Connors all adhered to the code in their Fila, Sergio Tacchini and bespoke Robert Bruce kits.

But then the 1980s happened and, save for the oasis of white enforced in SW19 by the All England Lawn Tennis Club, most tennis players have never looked back. Some of Agassi’s colour combinations were shocking, while Lendl, Cash and Becker were hardly shy. Even today it seems a shame that players as talented as Nadal feel the need to mess with the chic, white formula in silly, pirate-style sleeveless shirts and terrible Bermuda-length shorts.

The only player to bring class back to the court was Roger Federer, particularly his special Wimbledon kits he debuted in 2008. But even Fed fell foul of the fashion police this year for the orange soles on his trainers. I’m all for personal expression, but there are some rules you just shouldn’t break.

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget!

Look out for...

Spring 14 sees Australian men’s swimwear brand Franks debut accessories and clothing for the first time. Alongside its usual swim shorts, which come in 30 new prints this season, the brand will feature hoodies, T-shirts, backpacks and shirts.

Wholesale prices range from £8 to £34.

Contact: 07920 811059

/

Trendwatch

Versace

40 brands take a trip to S London

/

Iceberg

New menswear trade show S London has announced the line-up for its debut season.

Set up by the co-founders of menswear exhibition Jacket Required, the street, sports and skate show will run at the same time, July 31 to August 1, at The Boiler House on Brick Lane, east London.

New Balance will launch its Numeric skate shoes at the show, while other big footwear names among the 40 exhibitors include Vans and Fallen.

Clothing labels including Altamont, Icecream and Fourstar will feature, while accessories will be represented by names including 9Five and Mr Lacy.

For the full list, visit www.s-london.com

E Tautz

ART ATTACK

Despite the pared-back feeling of London Collections: Men, wackiness can still be found for spring 14. Classic chinos and jersey items were emblazoned with modern art, a trend we also saw in Milan.

MEN AT WORK Pick up next week’s issue for the first of our seasonal specials: menswear

BERLIN BOUND Get the lowdown from the German capital’s shows in next week’s Drapers

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 19

/

DIRECTIONS I THE STYLE COUNCIL

What do you look for in a menswear brand?

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 20

This week’s panel

Darren Skey We look to put together a fluid, commercial collection while maintaining the Harvey Nichols edit.

Understanding our customers’ needs is paramount. We have the luxury of being able to push fashion boundaries with brands such as Lee Roach (spring 14, pictured).

Joseph Ball We are loyal to our existing brands like Gant (spring 13, pictured) and Tommy Hilfiger.

However, we also look for new brands that fit our demographic. Our spring 14 buying will be very cautious, we won’t be overbuying – value for money, exclusivity and buying at realistic prices is key.

JASON BRODERICK General merchandise manager of menswear, sportswear and fine watches, Harrods

JOSEPH BALL Owner of mainstream indie Davids Menswear in Haslemere, Surrey

JAMES RONALD Senior menswear buyer at young fashion etailer Asos

DARREN SKEY Head of menswear, Harvey Nichols

Jason Broderick We look for quality above everything. Our clients are incredibly savvy and discernible and will always invest more in high-value, luxury items from brands such as Tom Ford (spring 13, pictured). They are increasingly asking what materials garments are made from along with its country of manufacture.

James Ronald One of the key objectives at Asos is to be first for fashion and so this is prioritised when building the range. I balance out the fashion styles with some more commercial lines to ensure we have a comprehensive offer for 20-something guys. I always keep an eye on the rest of the high street to ensure our prices are competitive.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Specialist warehousing and distribution for brands and retailers

If you are interested in ďŹ nding out why etailers, brands and retailers choose Amethyst Group please contact : Claire Muir - Head of Development - cmuir@amethystgroup.co.uk - 07980791119 OR John Hayward - Business Development Manager - jhayward@amethystgroup.co.uk - 07798646438

Do you need to talk about anything?

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13/07/2011 14:19

DIRECTIONS I menswear spring 14

Milan Menswear

Commercial looks held sway on the Italian catwalks, with a sports theme setting the pace Words by graeme moran & emily norval Photography by catwalking.com

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 22

calvin klein collection Menswear creative director Italo Zucchelli gave us a standout show, with precisely kitted out space-age streetwear jocks in a sea of sporty blues and techy fabrics.

Colours A palette of blue from cool sky to Yves Klein, ice white, steely grey and sunset shades of pink and purple.

Fabrics Sports fabrics including nylon, mesh, neoprene and bonded wool alongside soft leathers and crocodile skin.

Items Snug panelled jumpers, streetwearinspired bombers and blousons, boxy ombrĂŠ jumpers and T-shirts with panelled cloudscapes, slim suiting and croc bikers.

Themes The cool athletics vibe raced through this collection, with sporty fabrics on precise street-meets-sportswear pieces, while the boxy ombrĂŠ patterned tops are sure to be a spring 14 must-have.

PRADA Miuccia Prada’s film noir star from last season slinked away on a dark and mysterious summer holiday for spring 14.

Colours A dark and mismatched mix of terracottas, deep reds and teals alongside pops of yellow and orange, with jungle florals and Honolulu pin-up girl patterns.

Fabrics Silky satin, fine knits, wools and crisp cotton, with an eye-catching fabric technique featuring bonding that looked like a print but was in fact a layered design.

Items Silky blousons, bomber jackets and kitsch patterned short-sleeve knits, silk shorts, mismatched loose tailoring in 6db or sb blazers and fuller trouser shapes.

Themes A vintage resort look and relaxed sporty silhouette given a Prada twist in a rich and brooding palette.

FENDI Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 23

The emerging smart-meets-casual utility trend was seen here, in modern classics meant to weather a desert sandstorm but more at home on a sunny city boulevard.

Colours Saturated and faded summer tones of rust orange, indigo and mustard yellow, with earthy stone and cream.

Fabrics Techy nylons and PVC were contrasted with leather, hardy cottons, chambrays and textured knits.

Items Outerwear was key, with worker blazers, functional jackets and oversized techy anoraks. Tailoring was slim, with sb blazers atop loose pleat-front trousers.

Oversized tees had sun-dappled prints.

Themes An easy utilitarian vibe on simple wardrobe staples, in a rich palette of sun-faded summery tones.

NEIL BARRETT Barrett’s super-sharp and super-cool take on American sportswear jumped to the top of the podium this season.

Colours Predominantly black and white, with touches of grey and flashes of red.

Fabrics Barrett ticked the sleek sports box by contrasting foamy neoprene and nylons with luxe leather and crisp cottons.

Items Collarless cropped bombers, panelled shirts and boxy tees, shortsleeved jumpers, tailored blazers and coats with taped seams, smart tailored blazers and oversized shorts.

Themes Minimal, pared-back sportswear was key, with a monochrome black and white palette and a play on plaid, with oversized, mismatched and panelled u designs in organic, orb-like shapes.

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

BOTTEGA VENETA What started as a simple collection of staid 1sb grey suits developed into a work-inprogress featuring designer Tomas Maier’s chalk marks etched onto pieces as trompe l’oeil sketches of pockets and lapels.

Colours More monochrome combinations of black and white with grey, touches of plum and deep green.

Fabrics Cotton, cashmere knit, twill, leather and suede.

Items A variety of suit shapes and cuts, the most interesting of which merged a bomber jacket with a blazer. Relaxed pyjama-style shirts, golfing jumpers and cardigans and V-neck suede jumpers.

Themes An exploration of traditional tailoring with classics updated into new shapes, plus a retro golfing vibe.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 24

JIL SANDER Sander continued to do what she does best – pared-back modern menswear, although the squiggle prints felt out of place in the calm of the collection.

Colours Milan’s favourite combo of black and white softened by greys and punches of highlighter pen orange and pink. A faded plaid pattern stood out as a small but emerging trend.

Fabrics Bonded and patent leather, silk jacquards, mohair suiting, jacquard knits and crisp cotton.

Items Simple suits mixing sb waist-length or long-line blazers with streetwear-style wide-leg shorts or slim, cropped trousers.

Themes Smartened-up street kids with a slightly futuristic slant, with modern plays on tailoring and proportion.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Sportswear was the order of the day, although these basketballers and sprinters played for a luxury team. Will the loyal Ferragamo customer get onside?

Colours Blocks of white and caramel, tones of blue, green and bright orange.

Fabrics The trending technical sports fabrics featured throughout including vinyl, nylons, bonding and quilting finishes with super-luxe leathers.

Items Sporty drawstring-waist summer anoraks, commuter coats and blousons, quilted biker styles and a contrast-sleeve bomber jacket, tops emblazoned with oversized team numbers, trousers with elasticated waists and basketball shorts.

Themes Smartened up sportswear for wealthy off-duty athletes.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 25

As with much of Milan, the colours at Ermenegildo Zegna were rather muted for spring

Ermenegildo Zegna

Gucci

Former Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati made his debut at Zegna, blending the house’s suave tailoring with Pilati’s louche masculine elegance and effortless style.

Colours Pale sky through to navy, chilly greys, sage green, sandy creams, deep red and browns.

Fabrics Summery suede stood out, an emerging trend in the premium market.

Elsewhere, jacquards livened up suiting.

Items A mix of sb and db blazers with mismatched slim cropped trousers, some in patterned jacquard. Pilati’s signature robe-like coats, simple blousons, sleek bombers and long-line car coats.

Themes Buttoned-up smart suiting given that easy, casual touch Pilati is known for.

It was a tale of two collections from Frida Giannini, where a sporty look sat alongside a floral story. This was a younger, edgier and welcome new direction for Gucci.

Colours Cream, taupe, white and grey, with pops of yellow, blue, orange and pink.

Fabrics Activewear staples including stretch jersey and nylon with silk, soft leather and supple suede.

Items Jodhpur/gym-legging trousers, leather T-shirts, hoodies and blousons, lightweight anoraks, parkas and over-thehead jumper-jackets. Slim 2sb tailoring, sometimes covered in romantic florals.

Themes This was a more casual, sports luxe direction, with techy fabrics and athletic shapes, contrasted by a dark floral story that added fun Italian flair to tailoring.

u

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

VERSACE From the deep V-necks to the tight fits and outlandish prints, this show captured the well-established Versace excess. But there was also a maturity to the collection, with a sportier, almost cleaner vibe than usual.

Colours Lots! An arty palette of neon was splashed across casual items, while elsewhere green was key, from khaki to paler tones. In tailoring, smart navy, grey and burgundy made for classic pieces.

Fabrics Leather, plus suedes, soft cottons and fine knits, with some sheer elements.

Items Db and sb suits, leather biker jackets and unstructured leather trousers with ankle cuffs, arty prints on shirts and trousers and some very tight trunks.

Themes Classic Versace drama, but an updated version with sportier elements.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 26

MISSONI This beautifully tailored beach-themed collection was one of the most creative we’ve seen from Missoni’s men’s ranges in a few seasons. The cuts were impressive, the tailoring relaxed, but what set the whole thing off was the array of colours, which blended together perfectly.

Colours Summery, beachy pale pinks and blues, with shots of green and sand.

Fabrics Tartans on summery suiting, and lightweight cotton short suits. Ombré was evident, as was patchwork shirting.

Items Sb lightweight blazers and pleated trousers or tailored shorts belted tightly over soft round-neck T-shirts and knits.

Themes From the sand-coloured catwalk, to the sunset ombré effects and rippling blues, the seaside theme worked perfectly.

DOLCE & GABBANA Dolce & Gabbana again looked to Italy, and Domenico Dolce’s Sicilian homeland.

Inspired by ancient architecture, the collection had an almost mournful feel, which is perhaps easier to read into in light of recent issues surrounding the duo.

Colours Muted greys and stones, but the neutrality was balanced with hints of lightly shimmering gold and cream.

Fabrics Cotton, silks and fine knits.

Items Printed boxy wide-sleeved tops contrasted with tight shorts, where print effects continued. Also, pared-back knits, with deep V-neck cardigans and matching shorts. The print also carried through onto more informal bombers and vests.

Themes Prints galore, focusing on Sicilian architecture and ancient mythology.

STREETWEAR SPRING 14 I DIRECTIONS

Stitch London

SPRING 14 PREVIEW

A first look at what some of the streetwear show’s key brands will serve up later this month Words by EMILY NORVAL

For up-to-the-minute news and show reports throughout the season, go to www.drapersonline.com

RUM KNUCKLES

HUMÖR Danish streetwear brand Humör uses basketball silhouettes as a key influence for spring 14, with loose-fit shapes and sporty textiles.

Different shades of denim and blue work across the range, which maintains the casual aesthetic the brand has become known for. Jersey pieces with fun graphics add a sense of fun.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 27

S

pring 14 marks a change at streetwear show Stitch London.

Taking place this season on July 23 and 24, the event has moved to a new, larger venue: The Sorting Office on New Oxford Street. It has also introduced womenswear to the line-up, alongside its more familiar mix of men’s streetwear brands. Read on for our preview of what to expect this season.

ABUZE LONDON

BENCH

Rum Knuckles’ signature line of graphic prints returns this season, inspired by tattoos, skateboarding and street art. The range includes T-shirts, jumpers and hoodies, varsity jackets and a selection of caps. The primary colour palette is monochrome, interspersed with bright reds and camo print. Elsewhere, prints with names such as ‘Dolla Guns’ and ‘Dirty Cash’ echo the brand’s rebellious punk ethos.

For spring 14, Bench offers a diverse menswear collection with four different lines. The colour-blocked Popcraft; Geometro’s range of printed graphics; FMP, which focuses on textures; and Street Tech, which takes a functional approach with utilitarian fabrics.

Weather-proof bonded fabrics are key, while pop art and Instagram-inspired prints keep the range up to date and maintain a strong fashion, as well as technical, feel.

For Abuze London, staple streetwear pieces are included for spring 14, as well as a carry-over of successful cuts from last season. These are updated with fresh treatments such as polka dot and camo repeat prints. New pieces in the collection include a padded gilet and some luggage. Contrast fabric panels in suede and leather are used across the range.

DIRECTIONS I KIDSWEAR SPRING 14

Pitti Bimbo

ERMANNO SCERVINO JUNIOR

Spring 14 sees Ermanno Scervino Junior expand its premium denim offer, with lace designed and applied in-house used across denim jackets, skirts, shorts and dungarees to create a dressed-up feel. Patchwork denim, 1950s-style bomber jackets and an embroidered sheer rain jacket all stand out. Wholesale prices range from €40 to €110 (£34 to £94).

Contact: 00 39 55 6492 4381 www.ermannoscervino.it

Words by JAMES KNOWLES

T Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 28

he spring 14 edition of kidswear show Pitti Bimbo – now in its 77th season – kicked off last week with 460 collections on display, and exclusives including the debut of DSquared’s junior line. There was a shift towards a more trend-led aesthetic, with brands offering mini-me looks and seeking to stand out through the use of new materials and texture.

To keep up with trade show news and reports throughout the season, visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion

LITTLE MARCEL Exhibiting for the first time at Pitti Bimbo, Little Marcel targets kids from newborn to 12 years old.

Its new capsule collection, Authentic Mariniere , is manufactured entirely in France. The brand has also expanded its swimwear collection. Wholesale prices range from €7 to €42 (£6 to £36).

Contact: 00 33 9 54 47 43 04 www.littlemarcel.com

MIMISOL Italian brand MiMiSol is back with its fifth collection for spring 14, in which an African-inspired Masai theme with pretty dresses in bold colours with beaded collars, photo prints in a range of designs on full-skirted candy-coloured dresses, and a textured woven dress in green and blue all catch the eye.

Over in boyswear, trend-led double-breasted jackets and a neoprene jacket add interest.

Wholesale prices range from €7 to €42 (£6 to £36).

Contact: 00 33 9 54 47 43 04 www.mimisol.com

TARTINE & CHOCOLATE

Known for its signature Gallic style and traditional palette of baby blues and pinks, Tartine & Chocolate has livened up its offer by introducing a green colour story and using subtly sparkly fabrics in girlswear. The French brand, aimed at kids aged newborn to 10, is also appealing to buyer demand for newness with the launch of a cruise collection in boyswear. Wholesale prices range from €32 to €165 (£27 to £141).

Contact: 00 33 1 44 83 45 45 www.tartine-et-chocolate.fr

CLIMBING THE LADDER I CAREERS

How I got here _ Elizabeth Sharp The ladies merchandiser needed persistence and a head for business to land her dream job at H&M

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feel you can get to the position you want to be in.

What has been your career highlight? When I got the job in the merchandising team I knew it was my dream role. I had interviewed a number of times and been unsuccessful, but stayed to gain the skills I needed. When I was asked to take over as ladies merchandiser last year, it was my biggest achievement.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I would have been more open to the different paths when I was studying.

Perhaps I would have taken the time at university for a more creative skill like a language.

Who is your mentor? Lars Axelsson (former sales controller at H&M, now sales manager at & Other Stories).

What was the best piece of advice he’s given you? Be patient.

It’s essential to be driven in this kind of role, but you have greater effect if you take enough time in each position to learn the role.

How do you see your career progressing? Once I achieve my

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CV 2012 Ladies merchandiser, UK & Ireland, H&M 2010 Childrenswear merchandiser, UK & Ireland, H&M 2008 Area controller trainee, Essex, Kent and East Anglia, H&M 2008 Graduated Legal Practice Course, College of Law, London Bloomsbury 2007 Ladieswear department manager, H&M, Brighton 2006 Graduated Law with Business BA Hons, University of Brighton 2002 Sales adviser, H&M

goals as ladies merchandiser I would love to lead a team in the future. I’m open to travelling globally to gain perspective, and

with 49 H&M markets there is plenty of opportunity.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? It’s been a real benefit to have started working in the stores, because I understand the whole supply chain process.

A business mind is also a must and you need to enjoy a fast working pace in the office.

If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? Before I specialised in law and business my main interest was English. Writing about fashion brands and trend directions for a monthly title would be an exciting side of the fashion industry.

Salaries for this type of position normally range from £35,000 to £55,000 (estimate provided by Michael Page)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

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Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 29

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What does your diary look like today? Busy from the moment I arrive, with meetings and allocations of the new collection. It’s not your typical office job. However, it’s great fun working closely with our products, especially on womenswear.

What meeting are you most looking forward to today? The autumn 13 planning is an exciting process. We are looking so far ahead into the season even though it’s sunny outside.

What task do you wish you could postpone? It’s my responsibility to update the stores on stock levels and selling opportunities, so it’s important that I’m out visiting the shops and checking on their progress.

And since I’ve been visiting stores I need to catch up with my emails from the team here as well as in Sweden.

How did you get to where you are today? I knew this was the brand for me once I joined.

The nature of H&M encourages constant improvement and progression. There isn’t a huge hierarchy like other brands, so you

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

Fashion & Retail Personnel... Some choices are easy Design Wholesale & Technical

International

Buying & Merchandising

Marketing Digital & Creative

Head of Wholesale London, Accessories Brand £70,000-£80,000

Retail GM, Caucasus region Fashion Retailer Excellent salary

Senior Buyer, Australia Womenswear Retailer Excellent salary

Head of Planning Australia, Global Brand Six Figure Package

Sportswear Designer Yorkshire, Specialist Brand Up to £40,000

Lingerie Fit Tech Hong Kong, Fashion Retailer Excellent salary

International Merchandiser London, Fashion Accessories Up to £50,000

Online Acquisition Manager London, Retail Brand £35,000-£40,000

Trim Development Coordinator, Luxury Brand £30,000-£33,000

Designers Belgium, Retailer Salary based on experience

Assistant Merchandiser London Retailer Up to £28,000

Retail Marketing Executive London, Heritage Brand Up to £28,000

Responsible for leading the teams that work with the regional, national & international accounts.

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JULY 6 2013

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An experienced designer, with technical skills, across performance apparel is essential.

You will be attending design meetings and following up on new developments and amendments.

You will be heading up retail operations in the region. UK retail brands experience required.

Strong lingerie garment fit technical skills with UK products, and good English language skills required.

Experienced designers required with a background in either childrenswear or menswear.

An opportunity to join a global retailer with your experience in dealing with large volumes.

Being both talented and analytical, this individual will be working with a lifestyle brand.

Working for one of the UK’s much loved department stores, experience within premium brands is desirable.

Outstanding fast fashion opportunity to lead merchandise planning function.

A pivotal role to develop and implement the customer acquisition and retention strategy.

To support the successful implementation of the retail and international marketing strategy.

For further information about any of these opportunities and for a confidential career discussion please call us or email drapers@fashionpersonnel.co.uk

London 020 7436 0220 Midlands 0115 933 4778

fashionpersonnel.co.uk

Design House UK Limited Design House is a leading manufacturer of ladies wear currently supplying major retailers in the UK.

AssistAnt AccoUnt MAnAger We are an established supplier with a commercial presence on the high street looking for a talented Assistant Account Manager to join our Womenswear team in London. This is an exciting role that has brilliant growth opportunities with the potential for the candidate to develop within the company. This role will involve supporting a Senior Account Manager working to a critical path, liaising with overseas suppliers and clients to ensure that the critical path is adhered to. Strong admin and organisational skills are required as order information will need to be updated and managed at all times. A minimum of 2 years experience is essential at a similar role. The ideal candidate will enjoy working to deadlines and within a fast paced environment, be passionate, hard working and eager to progress in the fashion industry. This is a great role with exciting potential for the right person.

Please send cV by email to aydin@designhouseukltd.co.uk Alternatively send by post to; Aydin - Design House (UK) Ltd, 21 turle road, London, n4 3LZ.

dh

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.

Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

(UK) Limited

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.luca@EMAP.com

the next big thing

DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU SEE IT? Based in the heart of Manchester

- Merchandisers | £25k-£30k - Product Managers | £25k-£30k - Merchandise Managers | c£50k - Product Selector | £25k-£35k - Assistant Merchandisers | £20k - QA Supervisors | £30k-£35k - Temporary Buyer | £35k-£40k pro rata At JD Williams, we’re very proud of our big brands, continued growth, highly profitable and successful multi-channel offer – online, on the high street and in catalogues. But in the fast-moving world of fashion retail, you can never stand still, which is why we’re rapidly changing to set the pace in our market.

Join us at this exciting time and you’ll enjoy the freedom to help shape the way we work and provide our 2.5 million customers with the best ranges around. Expanding our stores and growing internationally, we’re focusing more on customer segments, in season trading and mobile-centric retailing. We’ve huge plans for the future and we want you to be part of them.

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To apply, please visit:

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JULY 6 2013

www.jdwilliamsgroup.jobs

Do you understand Business?

Have you run your own fashion business?

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We are looking for business people who have a Passion for Fashion and Creative businesses, available to start asap Desire and ability to support young designers/makers Excellent communication and people skills You will be a part of a London wide team of client facing business counsellors • The position is for a period of up to 12 months, but may be extended and has a remuneration of £30,000 pa.

This project is part-funded by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Email your CV with covering letter, indicating your specialism in this sector and how your experiences meet the above To: Jo Gent – Executive PA E: jog@smallbusinesscentre.org.uk Closing date is: 10th July 2013

www.smallbusinesscentre.org.uk ELSBC is an equal opportunity employer

ELSBC is a leading PRIVATE not-for-profit business support organisation helping people start-up and grow businesses across London since 1978.

GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST Glenmuir is a leading supplier of branded golf and leisurewear to the International golf and retail markets. The above position is based in our Lanark Head Office and covers both our Glenmuir and Sunderland brands. Our current product range and company details can be seen on www.glenmuir.co.uk & www.glenmuir.com.

Working closely with our Product Development & Buying Manager and Quality Control Team, you will play a leading role in the establishment and policing of our quality standards. You will advise on all technical issues, including fabric and colour but in particular size specifications and grading. You will establish product specification sheets and will assess incoming prototype and production samples.

A technical qualification and good relevant experience in a similar role are essential. Knowledge of performance sport clothing is an advantage. If you possess the skills and commitment required to be part of a dedicated team, please write to us with your CV and details of your current renumeration package.

Applications should be addressed to: The Product Development & Buying Manager, Glenmuir Limited, Delves Road, Lanark, Scotland ML11 9DX

NEW ROLE AVAILABLE, COTTON ON

GLOBAL DIRECTOR WOMENSWEAR THE COTTON ON GROUP HAS TAKEN THE SPIRIT OF OUR AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIAN CHARACTER TO THE GLOBE AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING VALUE FASHION BRANDS. – – – – – – – –

We are unwavering in our pursuit to provide customers with the right to engage in fashion, at the right price.

This commitment to our customers has seen us rapidly expand with a portfolio of 9 brands, over 1030 stores in 13 countries and a workforce in excess of 17,000.

Reporting to the Global General Manager of Cotton On, this newly created position forms part of the Cotton On Group and Cotton On brand’s Global Senior Leadership team.

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We have a genuine belief in our brand, our ideas and our ability to bring them to life. Working side by side within the communities in which we operate, we strive to achieve great things.

Cotton On has an exceptional trajectory for growth.

Together we are a pretty optimistic bunch with a clear set of values. Our entrepreneurial spirit is what

The Global Director – Womenswear will be responsible for:

If you are a passionate, product driven retail strategist who can demonstrate success of delivering a Womenswear business globally please contact Samantha Hogan on +61 424 750 828 or samh@cottonon.com.au

CONTACT INFORMATION: +61 424 750 828 SAMH@COTTONON.COM.AU COTTONON.COM.AU FTCT_TICT Draper Half Horizontal.pdf

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has brought us to this point and we have big plans for the future.

Global product direction and sourcing Merchandising and range success Trend direction Supply chain and stock management Branding, marketing and customer engagement Profitability and cost control People development and succession planning International growth

NEED A HELPING HAND? Are changes at home affecting your child’s education?

Do you need a helping hand to support your child’s special needs?

A small grant from the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust can make a big difference.

For more information on how to apply please visit www.ftct.org.uk or call us in confidence on 020 7170 4117

educational grants

help with special needs

FTCT is the only charity that supports the children of families who work in the fashion and textile industry.

welfare essentials

mobility

Registered charity: 257136

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com

DESIGNER - GIRLSWEAR SKELMERSDALE – Negotiable Matalan are currently recruiting for a Designer to work on our Girlswear department as part of the Childrenswear team here at our Head Office in Skelmersdale. As a Designer you will support the Design Manager in designing and developing comprehensive ranges in conjunction with the Buyers, ensuring that the product and ranges reflect the current market and Matalan’s customers.

MENS SHIRT DESIGNER HUTHWAITE, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE – DEPENDENT ON EXPERIENCE You will be responsible for the creation of profitable formal men’s shirts and ranges, from concept through to selling sample. You will undertake the task of identifying trends, styling, fitting and developing products in line with customer’s requirements and our own business targets.

You must be organised, able to work under pressure and meet tight deadlines. Furthermore you must be enthusiastic and be able to present your ranges to the customer with confidence. You must have supply base and high street experience. Ideally you will have worked in a similar role for 3/4 years. The ability to build good working relationships with colleagues and customers is essential. There are opportunities to develop your career within the business and travel to shows, factories and mills.

1 YEAR STUDENT PLACEMENT - BUYING COORDINATOR LONDON – £Competitive + Bens We currently have the opportunity for a 1 year student placement Buying Coordinator to join our team. As a Buying Coordinator you will accurately provide administration support to enable the Buyer and the team to deliver a profitable and commercial range that maximises every sales opportunity. You will be responsible for supporting your Buyer in planning future trends to ensure that lab dips, trims, prints, sample requests, fit meetings, purchase orders and the critical path is managed effectively, people are informed and relevant deadlines are met. We are looking for individuals who have a keen market awareness of forward trends and an intuitive instinct for fashion. Your inspiration will come from a range of measures from catwalk shows to trade shows.

MERCHANDISER (JEWELLERY, WATCHES, FASHION ACCESSORIES) LONDON – Competitive The Jewellery Channel Ltd is vibrant fast moving and growing teleshopping & internet businesses that is a specialist in an’ affordable jewellery category’ as well as in high end gem stones. The Jewellery channel is looking to increase their market share within next few years with an aggressive growth strategy. We are seeking a Merchandiser to join and develop the existing department. This is the perfect opportunity for an experienced Merchandiser who has a proven track record of high performance in a high profile merchandising role in fashion & jewellery sector. Joining this vibrant fast moving and growing teleshopping & internet businesses you will be working within mainly Women’s fashion including accessories, jewellery.

ONLINE MERCHANDISER LONDON – COMPETITIVE The Jewellery Channel Ltd is vibrant fast moving and growing teleshopping & internet businesses that is a specialist in an’ affordable jewellery category’ as well as in high end gem stones. The Jewellery channel is looking to increase their market share within next few years with an aggressive growth strategy. This is the ideal role for a talented merchandiser with a background in fashion merchandising looking to progress their career with a fast-growing company. Reporting to the Head of Multichannel you will ensure that the best performing products reach their full potential. You will recommend promotions and re-buys for popular products and supply the buying team with necessary data to enable informed decisions and future.

SENIOR MERCHANDISER/ TRADING MANAGER ( 3 MONTH CONTRACT) LONDON – COMPETITIVE The Jewellery Channel Ltd is vibrant fast moving and growing teleshopping & internet businesses that is a specialist in an’ affordable jewellery category’ as well as in high end gem stones. The Jewellery channel is looking to increase their market share within next few years with an aggressive growth strategy. We are seeking a Senior Merchandiser to join and develop the existing E commerce department on a three month contract.

Reporting to the Head of Multichannel you will ensure that the best performing products reach their full potential. You will recommend promotions and re-buys for popular products and supply the buying team with necessary data to enable informed decisions and future planning.

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JULY 6 2013

LECTURER/SENIOR LECTURER IN FASHION KNITWEAR DESIGN Nottingham – £30,424 – £44,607 per annum pro rata With a broad understanding of Fashion Design, you should demonstrate an inspirational, dynamic and innovative approach to Fashion Design and have experience and interest in exploring the creative potential of knitwear in Fashion. You should have a degree in Fashion, Fashion Knitwear or Textile Design. With previous experience of teaching Fashion Design at both Undergraduate/Post Graduate level, or with equivalent commercial design experience, you should have extensive technical, digital and design skills. Excellent team working, organisation and communication skills are also essential.

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PRESS OFFICER - OASIS, WAREHOUSE, COAST, KAREN MILLEN & BASTYAN IRELAND LONDON – Competitive plus benefits We have an exciting opportunity for an established PR Officer to join this innovative, evolving and creative team. Working directly with the Chairman of the Brands in Ireland, you will be supporting in the daily PR and Marketing activities from media liaison through to driving on going press coverage for all of the brands, working in partnership with the Digital Media & PR Assistant. You will be responsible for all proactive and reactive press enquiries, planning, organising and executing press events and product launches across each brand each season as well as supporting all other PR and Marketing events and activities for the brands as they arise in both the UK and Ireland.

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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior FIELD BASED TERRITORY SALES MANAGER UK NORTH – Competitive based on experience + Commission As part of our plans for expansion, a fantastic opportunity has arisen for a dynamic, driven and enthusiastic customer focused territory Sales Manager to cover the North of the UK market. The ideal candidate will have a proven track record of succeeding in a target driven environment and have the confident personality a successful leading young fashion company is looking for.

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643089’

PRODUCT DIRECTOR – LINGERIE, SWIMWEAR & CLOTHING WARWICKSHIRE – £Competitive Bravissimo is a dynamic multi-channel retailer which provides lingerie, swimwear and clothing for women who need a D-L cup bra, and offers a service to inspire customers to celebrate their curves and feel good about themselves. The company sells branded and own brand lingerie, bra-sized swimwear and our own range of strappy tops and nightwear with built-in bras. In addition we offer a unique clothing range which provides clothes cut for women who need a bigger size on the top than on the bottom. We sell these under the brand name Pepperberry.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643760’

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER – LUXURY DENIM LONDON, £COMPETITIVE An exciting opportunity has arisen for an Assistant Merchandiser to join our growing head office team.

Working closely with our Buyer and Merchandiser to ensure we have the right range offered for each of our individual stores to meet our customers’ expectations. You will proactively plan future ranges through ongoing analysis of current store performance giving consideration of past, current and future trends. You will assist in trading the stock in season to maximise full price sell through gross margin and stock cover.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643595’

FASHION MERCHANDISER - OUTERWEAR / SOFT SEPARATES / ACCESSORIES DEPTS. (MATERNITY COVER) HARROW, NORTH WEST LONDON – Depending on experience

Paragon Clothing is a leading supplier of Ladieswear / Menswear and Accessories based in North West London. We are looking for an experienced, talented and enthusiastic Merchandiser to cover a period of maternity leave starting in September and scheduled to last for approximately 12 months.

You will be responsible for managing critical paths, placing purchase orders and working closely with account managers and suppliers. Strong analytical and numerical skills are required as well as excellent planning and organisational abilities. The ideal candidate is currently merchandising for a supplier who works with top High St names.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643563’

BRANDED BUYER - CHILDRENSWEAR LONDON– £40 – 60K (dependent on experience) Zulily is a daily deal website that offers top-quality apparel, gear and other goodies for mums, babies and kids at up to 70% off retail prices. The news about zulily is spreading quickly; oodles of shoppers become members and get access to lots of new events every day. At zulily, we work together to achieve amazing results by exceeding the expectations of our customers and ourselves. The company is currently going through phenomenal growth, with the Buy team being an integral part of this. We need to hire a knowledgeable, seasoned Buyer to seek out hot deals that will keep those active little bodies adorably clothed in the latest fashion trends.

MENS SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MANCHESTER – Depending on experience A hugely exciting opportunity has arisen at premium British menswear brand, Elvis Jesus and Co Couture.

Based in the heart of Manchester’s Northern Quarter, our exquisitely crafted and embellished products are sold exclusively in independent boutiques, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges here in the UK with expansion plans in the States and China planned for the end of this year. We currently have an opportunity for an extremely talented and ambitious apparel graphic and print designer to join the team with an immediate start. This position isn’t for the faint hearted and will be the most demanding role the lucky applicant will ever encounter but most definitely the most rewarding and satisfying.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643570’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643678’

JUNIOR GARMENT DESIGNER/PRODUCT DEVELOPER NEWTON ABBOT, DEVON – Competitive Salary Exciting opportunity to join the small friendly and dedicated team of our expanding clothing brand based in Devon. The successful applicant must have a great eye for colour and a keen interest in fashion and trend forecasting.

Some technical knowledge of the garment production process will be a big advantage. A knowledge of Adobe Illustrator would also be beneficial but not essential.

CHINESE SPEAKING SOFT TRIM MERCHANDISER/ PRODUCT DEVELOPER LONDON – circa £20k subject to experience and qualifications.

A leading UK Supplier of components and trims with offices in London and Hong Kong, LGK are recruiting a Chinese speaking merchandiser with specific focus on the area of soft trims. Working with sales and design teams, liaising with customers and suppliers in the UK and Far East the role will involve product development, and merchandising of soft trims and accessories. You will have a “can do” attitude, be organised with the ability to multi task. Based in our London office you will have an opportunity to develop and expand in an established and well respected company.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643027’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643583’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642957’

COUNTRY MANAGER SRI LANKA – Excellent Remuneration Senior appointment for a Global manufacturing arm of major branded retail companies. Based in Sri Lanka, this vital role demands an accomplished Executive with a manufacturing & sourcing background who is a disciplined planner who can analyse micro & macro situations, motivate and encourage and develop teams to ensure critical path is achieved. Ensuring future development opportunities are identified, researched and brought to fruition as part of the overall corporate strategy. This is both an operational and development role. The ability to develop new sources of fabric supply and manufacturing resource and work as part of the senior team within a global organisation.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643713 ’

WHOLESALE EXECUTIVE LONDON – Competitive Orla Kiely is looking for a Wholesale Executive to join the team in the London showroom. The candidate has to be a brand ambassador with an enthusiasm for the brand. He or she has to be personable, professional and hardworking. You must have experience in wholesale in the fashion industry with a strong contacts list and established relationships with key buyers.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643150’

ASSISTANT BUYER PRIVATE LABEL LONDON – £Competitive THE OUTNET.COM is the most fashionable fashion outlet. Since its launch in April 2009 by the people behind the award-winning website NET-A-PORTER, THE OUTNET.COM has quickly established itself as the chic, go-to destination for the global, style-conscious shopper looking for the best designer brands at a great discount price. A challenging and exciting opportunity for an Assistant Buyer to join THE OUTNET and help build the newly established private label. This role presents you with the opportunity to join the venture at the early stages and as such influence how the final offer will look from the outset.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643086’

LECTURER IN FASHION DESIGN SALFORD, MANCHESTER – £37,382 - £44,607 PA The Fashion Design pathway at Salford is a leading and distinguished programme designed to reflect contemporary practice in the fashion industry. Individual creativity is encouraged and nurtured throughout the course leading to confident and professional designers who understand the process, from concept to final product. The programme aims to create flexible, resourceful fashion designers with well-developed transferable and interpersonal skills. It is important that the programme provides a broad based experience, concentrating on fashion, and develops not just high levels of analytical skills, critical judgment and the ability to learn independently, but also helps students acquire technical skills and the understanding necessary for the effective realisation of creative fashion concepts. It is imperative that fashion students become multi-skilled and professional people, able to adapt themselves to the specific needs of society and to the fulfillment of their own creativity.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643075’

CLIENT TEAM MANAGER LONDON – £34,832 - £41,790 per annum

The role is to manage and lead the Client team within LCF’s Careers Department. The post holder will ensure a strategic approach is taken when sourcing and managing client relationships both in the UK and Internationally. You will be expected to work closely with the Careers Manager in the strategic development of industry partnerships. LCF Careers is dedicated to enriching the student experience through the delivery of an employability provision that aims to produce informed individuals who are self-reliant and able to plan and manage their own careers. We aim to achieve this through the provision of career information and industry knowledge; and the delivery of personal guidance. Connecting students with industry opportunities such as accredited long term work placements, short term work experience, industry mentors, industry presentations and student sponsored projects.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643666’

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DESIGNER - JERSEY & OUTERWEAR LONDON – Competitive Salary The role will require you to design and deliver a range encompassing the main collection and Duke street foundry .To Design the outerwear, woven bottoms, and jersey areas. The role will cover all aspects of the design process from concept/ & colour, through to technical specs. A close working relationship with the sourcing, development and production team as well as sales teams is essential to this role. Good Presentation skills are also valuable to sell your ideas to the directors.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640746’

JULY 6 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643665’

ACCOUNT MANAGER SOUTH YORKSHIRE – Competitive Salary Our client is a key supplier of childrenswear to the UK high street. They have an exciting opportunity for an Account Manager with drive, enthusiasm and passion to join their team. You will maintain and develop existing client relationships, grow sales and raise brand awareness as well as managing the day-to-day relationships with both new and existing customers. Generate quality of service through timely responsiveness to client needs. You will have previous experience in product management, preferably within the Childrenswear market and with key multiples.

Drapers /

TECHNICAL ASSISTANT Leicestershire – Competitive Salary Our client is a leading supplier of clothing to some of the UK’s leading high street retailers. They are looking for an Assistant Product Developer/Technical Assistant to liaise with both designers and sealers/graders to develop the product into a sellable sample suitable to their customers.

You will be required to pattern cut, create spec sheets and measure product. You must have the ability to follow instruction and work in a fast paced environment under pressure. Ideally you will have at least 1 years experience of working in a similar role.

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

JULY 6 2013

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“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

Drapers /

t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

etailPR

AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG

PROVEN FASHION E-COMMERCE EXPERTS

Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

RETAIL SUPPLIES

0800 45 11 22 morplan.com

BUY NOW WEBSITES THAT WORK

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CREATIVE DESIGN CONSULTANCY

RETAIL SUPPLIES

STEAMERS

HANGERS

By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

Hangers & Display Products

Cambridge office 0808 168 0709

“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs.

Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

www.drapersonline.com

Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

www.redrosesoftware.co.uk

Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

Turkey CMT

Based in Corum, Turkey.

230 piece machine factory, working in cotton, stitching, ironed and packet goods.

Manufacturer of: Work Clothing - Men’s Trousers - Women’s Skirts - Police/Army Uniforms - Tactical Wear www.ortaanadolutekstil.com.tr www.yiltextactical.com 00905072659184

GARMENT LABELS

Halcyon Blue

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service?

We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts.

We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact: Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design

OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com

T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 NEW BUSINESS REQUIRED

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

www.drapersonline.com

Tel. 0048 502215339 Fax. 004868 4534854 wojciech.szwabowicz@classic-collection.pl http://www.classic-collection.pl/

JULY 6 2013

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

Drapers /

SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics.

Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities.

Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

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Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Contact: 07903368616

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630 JEANS BUTTONS

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

To MESSRS

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

LININGS

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

Notice board AUTHORISED

THE GRADING BUREAU

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

WANTED

Established 1973 Established 1973

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE Lollipops Boutique 1 REACTION – DECISION – Always Wanted PAYMENT * Customer Returns * LSS Services * QC Faults Unit 6 * Samples * Atlas*Business Centre * End of Lines * Oxgate Lane All cash payments and London NW2 7HJ garments de-labelled Tel: 020 8208 0404 if required Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Laura stock@lssservices.co.uk 07950310304 or

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

- Redundant - Overstock - Samples - Returns - Cancelled Orders Up to 10,000 units required per week.

Minimum quantity 100 units.

Prices paid up to £2 per piece.

Contact Joe 07815 355 355 Email: personnel@verso.uk.com

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL...

• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

CALL NOW FOR IMMEDIATE ACTION

01923 800074

theoffice@salvageliquidator.com ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

FREELANCE SERVICES

STOCK WANTED

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

STOCK WANTED We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

EARN ££££’S TODAY Mixed bundles, current or past season collections.

No minimum / maximum.

Stockroom clearance is our speciality.

Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk FOR SALE For sale surplus fabric, knitted, woven & PVC, trims & garments some retro. Plus machines and thread.

Good quality, variable amounts. 07791279083 textilefactorysurplusdr1@gmail.com

Childrens, Ladies and Mens.

N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk

Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best.

Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual.

Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494 Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience.

Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service.

Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695 TO LET

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com

DATAGR AF LTD Creative Pattern Cutting

Providing the best service for our clients Commercially aware and bespoke High technical ability combined with creativity makes us the leaders in our field www.fashionworks.biz

07751702952 / 07905965305 Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

Showroom/Office Space available – Prime Location

Offering a small Fashion/Textiles showroom space (250 square feet) in London’s West End Available immediately Contact Tel. 07931 174682

GRADING

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com

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JULY 6 2013

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DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

ZUPPE CLOTHING Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery.

Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

and Preppi.

Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

PEOPLE I THIS FASHION LIFE

‘Liberty was the most intense and public project I’ve ever taken on’ ➝ Why a pop-up? When you’re competing

with the digital world, it’s more important to do something interesting with bricks and mortar.

Because online moves so fast, it’s kind of nice to have a pop-up store that responds directly to a specific moment in fashion.

When you were 22 you launched the store Yasmin Cho, which was described by The New York Times as one of the most influential boutiques in the world. Tell us about it. I didn’t realise at the time, but I had a knack for finding new talent – I just bought the brands I loved, I wasn’t thinking about sell-throughs, what didn’t work last season, or whether pastels work. I just went with my gut 100% and therefore it was a special place.

How would you sum up your role as a fashion consultant? We work with brands – designer and high street – and retailers on taking their business to the next level. If this means being more commercial, we can do that; more directional, we do that also; or even just clarifying the direction of their retail offer. It’s up to us to analyse their business and guide them as to what strategy to take.

In 2005 you became the buying director of luxury indie Browns. Tell us about that?

Mrs [Joan] Burstein, the founder of Browns, called me up one day and said: “Would you come and take over our buying?” I was like, “OK Mrs B, I’ll jump on a plane next week!” I discovered many great new designers and was able to launch them while I was there, including Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Roksanda Ilincic, Meadham Kirchhoff, and a little brand called Acne that no one seemed to be picking up.

You were employed as chief creative consultant of Liberty and helped turn it around with a reinvention of the store. How was it working on this project? Liberty was probably the most intense and public project I’ve taken on. It was very rewarding though. I brought in 85 new brands and redesigned the three fashion floors, which were looking tired to say the least. We took it into profit for the first time in 14 years.

How do you balance being a wife (to Kyle Robinson), new mother (of Knox Rocket Robinson, both pictured) and your career? A good team is the key. If you have a good team, then you can really work smarter and be home to be with your family when you need to be.

Drapers / JULY 6 2013 _ 40

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Yasmin Sewell

The fashion consultant and former creative chief at Liberty tells GRAEME MORAN about her pop-up shop and work-life balance Tell us about your pop-up, Beach in the East. The shop is the result of a shared longing between my consulting company and distribution agency Paper Mache Tiger for a taste of that carefree vibe of nostalgic California. We felt that a skater moment was happening. We worked alongside Paper Mache Tiger to create a concept inspired by skating film Lords of Dogtown, which led to us creating the shell of a swimming pool for our shop interior.

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