Drapers 20july2013 combined

JULY 20 2013 £6.50 www.drapersonline.com

WHO’S NEXT

Essential brands from the Paris show P100 CLOSE-UP

BrandAlley gets set for an upmarket relaunch P18 SHOPWATCH

Le Coq Sportif aims to recapture past glories P22

WOMENSWEAR SPRING 14 SPEcIAl

Always Innovative, Forever Glamorous

UK Customer Services T: 0141 204 0699 E: fashion@premierfashions.co.uk franklyman.com

THE WEEK Drapers COVER CREDITS: DRESS, FEVER; JACKET, BRUUNS BAZAAR

Enjoy a wealth of womenswear inspiration

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson, Colette Fahy, Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall, Alice Trueman, Richard Young

In this week’s Womenswear Special, our biggest issue of the season, you’ll find a host of information and inspiration to guide you through spring 14.

As the UK womenswear show season kicks off with Scoop this Sunday, we bring you new products, trends and brands to get up to speed with, from our buying guide that begins on p60 to a look at two of the season’s key trends in our fashion shoots which open on p33.

We’ve also visited the new Le Coq Sportif store in Covent Garden, its first in the UK, to see how well its cycling-themed interior works(p22).

In Europe, the womenswear season began with Who’s Next in Paris last week, from where we report on p100. There’s plenty to get your teeth into from around the stands, as well as even more on our website, so log on to Drapersonline.com for the full coverage from this, the upcoming shows both home and abroad, and live news.

Speaking of news, turn to p2 to read this week’s biggest stories and see what our editorial director Eric Musgrave has to say on p10.

Enjoy the issue.

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 020 3033 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 020 3033 2994 Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 20.07.13 REGULARS

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Richard Breeden, 020 3033 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705.

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by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

29

2_ News This week’s top stories, including Kate Bostock and 25 Ten Boutique 10_ Opinion ReChannel’s Luke Thomson and Adele Crombie from Edinburgh indie ALC 14_ Fashion Index Trading figures from the UK and international news, plus Indie Index 24_ Ecomm Nike hopes its new app will help the fashion industry to design an ethical future 104_ Careers Debenhams’ lingerie design manager Aimee Cordery 116_ This Fashion Life Helle Hestehave reveals the inspirations behind Baum und Pferdgarten

30 FEATURES

18_ Close-Up Rob Feldmann talks us through BrandAlley’s upcoming relaunch 22_ Shopwatch Le Coq Sportif hopes to cash in on its pedal power in Covent Garden WOMENSWEAR

33_ The Edit Get inspired with our guide to spring 14’s key womenswear looks 34_ Sheer Force The first of our shoots

22

focuses on see-through fabrics and lace 48_ A Tribal Quest An ethnic twist livens up the pattern clashing of previous seasons 60_ Essential Items Check out our pick of the season’s crucial brands and trends 98_ Brand List Contact details for all the featured brands DIRECTIONS

27_ This Week’s Hero Nude tones were a

definite trend on Paris’s couture catwalks 28_ The Buzz Hot brands and trends, including boiler suits and a new London store 29_ Style Council Our panel of experts give their spring 14 womenswear tips 30_ Brandwatch Why Dutch brand Stills is making waves 100_ Who’s Next The womenswear buying season got underway in Paris

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 1

_Ana Santi, deputy editor

News

Unpaid supplier hits out at Turner-Mitchell / Independents /

T-shirt supplier calls Paul Turner-Mitchell ‘a hypocrite’, prompting legal threat from indie advocate

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 2

By Claire Dodd

Fashion retailer and independents’ champion Paul Turner-Mitchell has been branded “a hypocrite” by T-shirt supplier Original Geek after failing to pay an invoice for £982.80 that has been outstanding for nine months.

Turner-Mitchell, director of Rochdale fashion business 25 Ten Boutique, is considering legal action against Leeds-based Original Geek for what he called “wild accusations” by its chief executive Matt Peacock.

The debt relates to orders from September to November, 2012. Original Geek claims Turner-Mitchell repeatedly promised to pay the debt. It instructed collection agency Final Demand to recoup the debt in March. As Drapers went to press the money was still unpaid. In an email to Original Geek last week, Turner-Mitchell wrote: “I will ensure that the monies due are clear by July 31.”

Original Geek was founded in late

2011 and has sold around 70,000 T-shirts to date, said Peacock. He expressed sympathy for independents in the trading climate but is appalled that Turner-Mitchell continues to publicly comment on the difficulties small retailers face while withholding payment to a small supplier.

“We’d be dead in the water if everyone did the same as Paul,” Peacock said. “It seems very hypocritical to be so brazen and put yourself on a pedestal as a reputable retailer and always point the finger.

It’s been nearly a year [since the first order] and our debt is still unpaid.”

Turner-Mitchell is a regular retail commentator and is outspoken in his support for independents. He has teamed with former Focus DIY boss Bill Grimsey on an alternative report to the Portas Review, due in the autumn.

Turner-Mitchell told Drapers his failure to pay the debt had been “an oversight”. “I fully accept there was a

delay making payment for which I profusely apologise. The reason why I talk about small businesses is not an ego trip. I put my head above the parapet to help small businesses, so to use that against me seems disingenuous.”

He is considering legal proceedings for defamation for comments made by Peacock in emails to the press.

The 25 Ten Boutique on Yorkshire Street in Rochdale closed this spring, but the business has continued to trade online. The store is due to reopen on July 27 in Littleborough, a few miles from Rochdale. In last week’s email to Original Geek, Turner-Mitchell wrote: “It has taken us longer than hoped securing new premises and fitting the same so the company has been without income from the bricks-and-mortar side for nearly three months now.”

Moving on: Paul Turner-Mitchell’s (inset) 25 Ten Boutique in Rochdale closed this spring

For the latest news from fashion independents, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

/ People /

Industry considers life after Asos for Bostock

By Ana Santi

Kate Bostock is expected to take several months out before returning to the fashion industry, after resigning as Asos executive director of product and trading this week.

Bostock joined Asos in January from Marks & Spencer, where she was executive director for general merchandise, but has stepped down after concluding that “Asos wasn’t the right place for me” – an opinion shared by many in the industry when the appointment was announced last year.

“The online platform and younger customer were probably too much for Kate; she’s good at value retailing and bricks-and-mortar,” said one headhunter. “But we need to give her a break. She needs to take a lot of time off – several months – do something she is good at and do it quietly.”

Another headhunter added that Bostock could return to run a smaller fashion company but would need the strong support of a chairman. “What brand is big enough for Kate to run just the product side? She has to go for a

Logged off: Bostock is expected to take time out following Asos departure

smaller brand, with support from a good financial director and chairman. She’s a first-class retailer.”

Industry insiders have suggested Bostock could “do a Jane Shepherdson”, who left Topshop in 2008 to buy Whistles. “But Jane left with her stock very high,” said one recruitment consultant. “Kate was publicly under a lot of pressure at M&S and needs to build up her stock again. She won’t walk into something new straight away – she should take time off – but she’s one of those people who will always get a job.”

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

News in Brief Matt McCormack exits John Lewis

John Lewis’s buying director for fashion, Matt McCormack (pictured), stepped down this week and will return to his native Australia to run retailer Just Jeans.

John Lewis is not expected to announce a replacement until Paula Nickolds joins as buying and brand director in September, replacing Peter Ruis.

Margin trade show moves home

Streetwear trade show Margin will move to a new location at the Hilton London Olympia Hotel in west London for its spring 14 edition on August 4 and 5.

Alongside UK brand debuts such as Cut Out Girls, Cheek LDN and Thfkdlf, the show will host several international brands making their European debut.

UK visitors flock to who’s next

The number of UK visitors at womenswear trade show Who’s Next rose 9.8% to 916 compared with the spring 13 edition last year. However, overall visitor numbers at the show, which took place in Paris from July 6 to 9, fell 31% from 65,682 in the autumn 13 January edition to just 44,502.

Long-time Bentalls buyer to leave

/ People /

Terry Fraser to lead denim at Superdry Superdry has appointed Terry Fraser as men’s denim designer effective from August 1.

Fraser, who spent six years at Pepe Jeans London as product director before launching his own denim brand, Blood & Glitter, in 2001, has been hired to bring Superdry’s denim business “to the fore” in line with the company’s ambition to grow its denim division.

Fraser added: “I’m overjoyed to be joining the SuperGroup brand. It’s definitely the most exciting British company around at the moment and I can see it has fantastic potential to

expand further internationally. It was the only company I had any interest in joining in the UK.” In his role, Fraser will be responsible for designing the denim collection for Superdry in all its 122 global territories and will report into James Holden, the company’s creative and design director.

Fraser comes to Superdry with over 20 years’ experience in the denim industry across the UK, Hong Kong, China and Turkey. He sold his shares in Blood & Glitter to his former business partner in 2012.

John Pattinson, head of menswear at Bentalls in Kingston upon Thames, will step down in October after 20 years at the company. The premium department store, which is part of the Fenwick group, has not yet announced a replacement.

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Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 3

London Live ALL The LATesT news fRoM The dRAPeRs TeAM AT The London TRAde shows

/

News

Department stores /

Croydon discount outlet to open in ex-Allders store

Drapers / JUly 20 2013 _ 4

By Jill Geoghegan

Discount retail centre Croydon Village Outlet will take over the former Allders site in September, a year after the Croydon department store closed.

Croydon Village Outlet managing director Marco Cash said the 530,000 sq ft site will be “ideal for launching Britain’s first inner-city off-price retail outlet”.

He added: “In the past, suppliers made sure that discount centres remained out of town, miles away from their main accounts, but attitudes have changed in the last five years.

Retailers have started to realise that outlets offer a completely different shopping experience.”

Cash said the centre would be “twice the size” of Bicester Village in Oxfordshire and he hopes to attract more than three million international

/

shoppers next year. Bicester Village attracts 5.8 million visitors each year.

Cash told Drapers the outlet’s fashion department was at 75% capacity, with half of the subscriptions coming from UK high street brands and the remainder from international labels.

Brands including Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Versace and Prada will be available in a 25,000 sq ft ‘Gold Room’

‘Retailers have started to realise that outlets offer a different shopping experience’ Marco Cash, managing director, Croydon Village Outlet

but Cash declined to name which high street brands have signed up. Drapers understands that Kurt Geiger is among the line-up.

Croydon Village Outlet will be headed up by a core management staff of 20, including general manager Chris McMahon, who joins from shopping centre Metro Outlet in Newcastle.

A further 20 positions have been filled by former Allders employees, including the roles of office manager, HR manager and security. The company will recruit a further 630 staff members from the local area.

Cash said he was looking at four other potential sites in regional hubs across the UK for similar developments and believes that eight to 12 would be the optimum number to avoid market saturation.

Croydon Village Outlet has secured a five-year deal with landlord Minerva.

The building has remained empty since the closure of the 150-year old Allders department store last September after it fell into administration.

Tim Garnham, joint chief executive of Minerva, confirmed the deal on July 10 and said the property company was “acting in the best interests of Croydon” by securing the letting.

For more news on the latest fashion openings, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

Ecommerce /

My-Wardrobe clears out ‘uncommercial’ brands

By Jill Geoghegan

My-Wardrobe.com chief executive David Worby has vowed to only stock brands that “work commercially”, after the etailer axed up to 30 labels ahead of its autumn 13 relaunch this month.

Worby refused to name the brands involved but said the website’s “improved visual presentation” has already helped the womenswear etailer attract more luxury labels, including footwear designer laurence Dacade, whose boots retail for up to £750.

Worby, who joined My-Wardrobe in June 2012 from Harrods, where he was director of Harrods Direct, said: “It’s a first for My-Wardrobe as, in the past, when we took on a brand we tended to keep them. But we will be dropping some labels that commercially don’t

Looking ahead: the relaunch of My-Wardrobe.com will see it bolster its luxury offer (Palmer Harding, pictured)

work or match our customer profile.

Our new fashion director Carmen Borgonovo has cast a fresh eye on everything and wants to clean up the presentation of the website.”

However, Worby insisted that entry price points – T-shirts start at £80 – would not increase.

For autumn 13, the site will launch with 75 new brands, including emerging designers and established names such as JW Anderson and Michael Kors. Kurt Geiger and New Balance will join the extended footwear offer. The luxury handbag range will also be increased.

Earlier this week, My-Wardrobe completed a £3m investment deal from private investors, as its co-founder Sarah Curran stepped down to pursue new opportunities.

Sportswear /

Tim Phipps swaps Fred Perry for Nike

new beginning: the store has stood empty since allders’ administration last september

Tim Phipps, former head of footwear at Fred Perry, will be responsible for driving sales of Nike’s Specialty sportswear line across Europe after stepping down from the British brand earlier this month.

Phipps is set to become Nike’s European category sales director for NSW (Nike Sportswear) Specialty when he joins in Amsterdam on August 1. He left Fred Perry in early July after eight years at the young fashion brand.

Phipps said: “I’ve always wanted to work for Nike since I was young.

Positions like this don’t come up very often and I felt it was the right time in my career. I’ve loved working for Fred Perry.”

He will be responsible for Nike’s high-end footwear and clothing across Europe, including the UK. In early July, Nike reported sales of its clothing had slumped 16% across western Europe in the fourth quarter, from $332m (£218m) to $280m (£184m) compared with the same period last year.

Fred Perry is yet to announce a replacement and is understood to not be currently interviewing for the role.

Dressipi, the online fashion advice service for consumers, named Dorothy Perkins (pictured) as the biggest climber in its latest index of the UK’s favourite retailers. The survey of 40,000 shoppers saw the chain soar from 17th to 7th.

MeMbers’ Club THe BrandaLLey Boss on THe siTe’s iMPending reLauncH and HigHer-end focus p18

Drapers / JUly 20 2013 _ 5

/

News

/ International /

Hawes & Curtis aims to net overseas sales online sales to grow to 40% of sales once the local sites are launched.

Hawes & Curtis said the decision to focus on Russia was taken after it experienced consistent sales growth in the country over the past few years.

It said Germany represents a strong market for traditional English brands.

The retailer has also signed a Middle Eastern franchise deal with United Arab Emirates conglomerate Korath Holdings to open 26 stores in the next five years.

Hawes & Curtis is in negotiations to open franchises in Indonesia and the Far East and plans to open a standalone flagship store in the US in late 2013.

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 6

By Victoria Gallagher

Shirt specialist Hawes & Curtis is gearing up for international growth with a revamped website and franchise deals in the Middle East and Far East.

The site, www.hawesandcurtis.com, will relaunch in the next three weeks.

It is to be translated into German and Russian and those countries’ shoppers will be able to pay in local currencies, with prices converted from pounds.

For example, a shirt priced at £89 in the UK will retail at €109 in Germany.

“The main drive [for growth] is online and international,” said the retailer’s chairman, Touker Suleyman.

Online sales and international revenue represent about 25% and 20% respectively of Hawes & Curtis’s total £29m turnover. The company expects

Business trip: Hawes & Curtis shirts will be sold in local currencies

/ Menswear /

/ Barometer /

Farrell lands in US at Bloomingdale’s British menswear brand Farrell is making its US wholesale debut in seven branches of department store Bloomingdale’s.

Bloomingdale’s buyers will select 25 pieces from Farrell’s 68-piece autumn 13 collection for its stores in New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago and Florida in September.

The launch is part of Bloomingdale’s ‘Brit Style’ promotion, which celebrates 50 years of The Beatles and will see more than 40 UK brands, including Crombie and All Saints, offer exclusives. Farrell is backed by pop star Robbie Williams.

Farrell commercial director Suzie Empson said the brand wanted to “establish itself in the right way” in the US by working with “select, key partners”. She added that buyers from the department store have viewed the spring 14 collection and Farrell hopes to “continue its relationship with Bloomingdale’s well into the future”.

The launch into the US follows Farrell’s expansion into Australia last week, where the brand opened two concessions in branches of department store David Jones with the aim of rolling the partnership out across the country.

To read more stories about the international fashion market, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

Footfall in June improved marginally by 0.1%, rising from the 0.7% decline seen in May, according to figures from the British Retail Consortium/Springboard Footfall Monitor Womenswear brand Goat has received investment from private equity vehicle Amery Capital. The label is also set to reveal that profits have doubled over the past year

Like-for-like sales at H&M grew in June after months of stagnant figures.

Like-for-like revenues rose 3%

Read all about it To keeP uP wITH BReakIng newS, CHeCk ouT ouR weBSITe aT www.drapersonline.com

THRILLS

SPILLS

John Lewis (Somerset by Alice Temperley, pictured) recorded a 1.7% decline in fashion sales this week after the “fine weather and the excitement of sport” caused a drop in footfall last Saturday

Jack Wills posted a £9.7m pre-tax loss in the year to February 3

visit www.marc-cain.com

pomodoro Spring 2014

Showing at Pure, Olympia London, Stand L101, Moda UK, NEC, Birmingham, Stand I15, SIMM, Madrid, Hall 12, Stand 12E08 Pomodoro Clothing Company Ltd Tel: +44 20 8961 4000

Email: info@pomodoroclothing.com

Web: www.pomodoroclothing.com

NEWS

BOSS DARREN BLACKHURST LEAVES

JASON HARGREAVES NAMED AS NEW CHIEF

CHANGES AT THE TOP AT MATALAN

SPRING FORWARDS FOUR INDUSTRY INSIDERS GIVE THEIR PREDICTIONS FOR NEXT SEASON’S WOMENSWEAR TRENDS p29 Into the light: blouse from spring 14 range

/ Womenswear /

/ Womenswear /

James Lakeland revamps offer to broaden appeal

By Victoria Gallagher

James Lakeland has increased its casualwear and knitwear collections for spring 14 by 30% in a bid to broaden its UK stockist base.

The mainstream womenswear brand’s spring 14 collection has grown to 60 pieces, up from 45 for spring 13, with key additions including layered tunics in soft grey and cream and balloon-shape stripy cardigans.

Founder James Lakeland said both collections had “changed completely” to reflect both changes in consumer buying habits and the weather.

He added: “What customers want is changing. They want to be able to buy there and then and wear it immediately.

We’ve also taken into consideration changes in the weather. Often it’s unseasonable, but people want new things. We wanted to launch a range that people could wear right here, right now. They’re layered pieces.

They’re not heavy, they’re not flimsy.”

The womenswear brand has also created a transitional collection, which will be updated every six weeks.

Wholesale prices range from £12 to £37.

James Lakeland, which has around 100 stockists including John Lewis and Hoopers, hopes to add between 20 and 30 new stockists for spring 14.

Wholesale prices for the James Lakeland mainline will remain the same, ranging from £10 to £130.

/ Brands /

Acne poised for international openings Premium brand Acne is set to continue its global expansion following the opening of a 2,289 sq ft store in Kensington, west London on July 18, its second in the UK. Managing director Mikael Schiller told Drapers it will open a 5,000 sq ft store in Los Angeles in the coming months after its US launch in New York last year.

Acne will also open a third store in Paris, three concessions in Seoul in department store chain Shinsegae, and a boutique in Osaka, Japan, this year.

Schiller added that London was an important market for the brand and it wanted to continue to grow its customer base in the UK by “working closely with existing wholesale partners”.

Acne opened its first standalone store on Dover Street in London in 2010 and it is also stocked in Harrods, Liberty and Selfridges.

Schiller said the brand has “a firm eye” on Asia due to the “strong trade” of the Acne store in Tokyo, but was not looking for retail property in China.

Prey of London invests in growth Womenswear label Prey of London is hoping to double its turnover by 2015 after receiving a cash injection from an undisclosed group of private equity investors at the end of May. Prey of London, which was launched in autumn 12 by former Religion designers Donovan Pascal and Hannah Man, hopes to double its projected turnover of £1m in 2014 to £2m in 2015.

The brand will use the undisclosed investment to grow the existing team of 12 “substantially” and attract international partners.

Richard Blackburn, director of Prey of London, said: “The investment has already allowed us to secure new distributors in Scandinavia, Benelux, Germany, Switzerland, Russia and Asia.” He added that the brand is also looking for a store in east London.

Prey of London showed at Berlin trade show Premium for the first time this season and will also have a stand at womenswear show Scoop in London from July 21 to 23.

Wholesale prices for the 82-piece spring 14 collection range from £18 to £70 with a 2.7 mark-up.

Prey of London is stocked in 45 stores in the UK including Choice, Diffusion and Pilot.

‘The investment has already allowed us to secure new distributors’ Richard Blackburn, director, Prey of London

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 9

Cream cracker: James Lakeland’s spring 14 range includes pieces in soft, light colours

OPINION

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 10

Fashion success is a two-way street _ Eric Musgrave

A

mong the many changes that have occurred within the industry in the past few years, the changing relationship between independent fashion retailers and suppliers is one of the most intriguing. In an ideal world, they should operate like finely engineered cogs, knitting together perfectly for their mutual benefit.

Fashion retailing, alas, has never been an ideal world and those cogs always have clashed now and again.

In the early days of my career I used to listen to the complaints from each group about the other and wonder if they had lost sight of their mutual desire, which was to sell more merchandise to Joe and Josephine Public.

Unsurprisingly, good trading conditions have always been a sure-fire way of reducing the moaning and groaning from supplier and shopkeeper.

I detect now a return to more fractious relationships between supplier and buyer. The rise of the discount outlets a few decades ago can be seen to be the start of a pathway that leads to the situation today. Brands began to become retailers, often at first in a rather unglamorous way, but many soon learned that they sold more by going directly to the consumer. The expansion of single-category suppliers into lifestyle brands accelerated the process. A regular complaint from expanding brands was that their carefully co-ordinated collections were not effectively shown in many small units.

The discount outlet initiatives led to full-price shops on the high street, in the major shopping centres and in department store concessions. The reduction in the number of independent retailers further fuelled the

expansion of the brands’ shops, which then itself contributed to the independents’ demise.

The incredible rise of online retailing has only added to the tension. Whether it is the “unfair” competition (as traditional retailers see it) of online-only traders or, even more annoyingly, the transactional websites of brands themselves, the new trading realities have definitely made the relationship between supplier and independent buyer less stable. The unpredictable cutting of retail prices online is the great bugbear for traditional stockists, of course, as consumers of all ages and classes are now very skilled at price matching before buying.

I have been surprised at just how bitterly betrayed some independents feel. Once-loyal brands are now seen virtually as enemies. Conversely, suppliers are becoming more vocal about the problems of getting paid by smaller stockists, as our lead story (p2) alludes to. Large suppliers have long been used almost as loan companies by some independents, but in the present-day situation, in which many suppliers that want to sell to small shops are indeed small companies themselves, there needs to be more responsibility shown by retailers. Settling a bill promptly is not optional. It is essential to keep many suppliers afloat.

I am encouraged that many good relationships between independent businesses and their suppliers exist, but the start of the new buying season is a good time to reflect that fashion retailing should be a fruitful alliance between brands and their stockists, not a battleground. At Drapers, we’d be delighted to hear our readers’ take on the current situation.

Drapers editorial director / eric.musgrave@emap.com

TO HAVE YOUR SAY ON THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN SUPPLIERS AND INDEPENDENT RETAILERS, GO TO www.drapersonline.com

H A U B E R

A T

S C O O P

2 1 S T - 2 3 R d J U l y 2 0 1 3 T H E P H i l l i P S G A l l E R y, B 2 8 H O w i C k P l A C E l O n d O n , S w 1 P 1 B B

Showroom Diane Sykes 路 56 wells Street 路 w1T 3PT London Phone: +44/207/323 6100 (direct call 6102) 路 Fax: +44/207/323 6109 E-mail: diane.sykes@hauber.de 路 www.hauber.de

NEW sEAsoN NEW sTylE

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Show dateS: PURe – H94 4-6 August 2013 INdX – Womenswear 7-9 August 2013 Moda – H 11 11-13 August 2013 lWK6010 DElTA TuNIC sD508 JAzz lEGGINGs

To make an appointment or for further information: 891 Great West Road, Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 5PD. Call: 020 8560 2323 Email: sales@adini.co.uk www.adini.co.uk

OPINION

/ Talking Business /

_ Luke Thomson

A

s fashion becomes less seasonal and moves towards monthly collections and increased deliveries, managing the wholesale chain has become a constant struggle. But the endless admin-juggling of last-minute samples, lookbooks, buying appointments, orders and cancellations is about to change.

Despite the difficult economy, fashion houses and brands invest vast sums in their brand image: runway shows, trade shows, imagery, press events, lookbooks and showrooms.

Yet brands still use inelegant paper linesheets and cumbersome lookbooks as the final exchange between brands and their buyers.

Fashion has long accepted the value

of ecommerce to sell business to business (B2B), yet it has been slow to embrace B2B technology.

The lack of an off-the-shelf solution has made forward-thinking brands build their own, at great expense. But an influx of new technology has seen the advent of new off-the-shelf solutions. These brand-to-buyer interfaces integrate directly into stock systems, allowing buyers to place live orders against real-time stock counts. Powerful new tools like these reduce fashion brands’ admin burdens, which could make the difference between growth and stagnation.

Co-founder of digital fashion wholesale platform ReChannel

/ Talking Shop /

‘Large forward orders are no longer relevant for me’ _ Adele Crombie

A

s a new business, buying the ‘right’ stock at the ‘right’ time is a daunting task. Without knowing who the shop’s customers will be, style, sizing and availability are the basic variables that can affect success or failure. The unpredictable weather and the erratic Sale periods make the market ever more difficult to predict.

Although this is my store’s first spring, it’s clear many businesses are struggling, as demonstrated by bulging discount rails. Customers have said how good this year’s Sales are; the Sales started early while summer arrived far too late.

With the spring 14 buying period already underway, these issues with timing will be at the forefront of my

mind when I visit the trade shows and I’ll be looking for brands that offer larger collections with fewer minimums, and wearable trend-led items that easily transcend the seasons. Large forward orders confirmed and committed to six months or more in advance are no longer relevant, presenting too high a risk on margin retention.

I’ll be holding back a substantial in-season buying budget so I can be responsive. It will be interesting to see the brands that are adapting to this strategy and, from that, what trends have emerged for the coming season.

Owner of contemporary womenswear indie ALC in Edinburgh

VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES

BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

05 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘Indies angered by Firetrap compensation deals’ – The smart indies got out of Firetrap the moment it was sold. You could see what was coming a mile off Anonymous

02 That Sports Direct is choosing to compensate suggests a commercial decision to do so has been taken Stephen Sidkin

03 ‘The trade show trade-off’ – There doesn’t need to be the amount of trade shows there currently is. It’s better to have less shows but of a higher quality Anonymous

04 ‘Mike Ashley ready to Cruise into luxury market’ – “They are seeing there is not much other competition.” Possibly because nobody wants to compete in selling luxury brands at 80% off Anonymous

05 ‘Eric Musgrave appointed Editorial Director of Drapers’ – It’s fantastic to have such a well-known and popular figurehead back at Drapers Gareth Jones

Online Poll This week’s poll result Do you think retail heavyweights will influence a change in business rates?

YES

NO

61% 39% This week’s question Are brands and indies supporting each other enough? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 13

‘Powerful new tools reduce the fashion admin burden’

Fashion INDEX

‘Family businesses create huge cultural challenges’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 14

M

atalan, the company owned by founder John Hargreaves, revealed last week that its chief executive Darren Blackhurst had left the business and been replaced by Mr Hargreaves’ son, Jason. This decision could be seen as a throwback to a period when Matalan went through a number of chief executives following a series of disagreements with the retailer’s owners.

Given that Matalan is a private company, John Hargreaves can do what he likes, but this latest decision does beg the question: what is driving fashion retail in the current market – is it management or the personality behind the brand? And how can you effectively combine the two?

The answer probably lies in getting the right balance. If an owner sticks his nose into every problem, how can the business continue without him? Yet by the same token, if he removes himself completely, is it really the same business?

JJB Sports was never the same again after founder Dave Whelan sold up in 2007; it entered administration just five years later. One can assume John Hargreaves would not want Matalan to suffer a similar fate.

There is obviously no sense in having a fantastic brand run by poor management, but neither is it a good idea to have superior management looking after a failing brand. That’s why ‘passing the baton’ is so important, as the board, investors and even consumers need to know the business will survive management changes.

Blackhurst seemed as if he’d be a very talented chief executive for just about any fashion retailer, but perhaps he didn’t have the same passion for Matalan as a Hargreaves. The truth is, no one cares for a family business as much as a family member. That can create huge cultural challenges for non-family management, no matter how skilled they are.

Regardless, every business owner needs an exit strategy based on a blend of strong management, a valued brand and a superior shopping experience.

Family history is important but it can never replace these vital business basics.

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures Week 28 – July 8 to July 14, 2013

+2.1%

-8%

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

Incessant sunshine hit every day’s year-on-year performance, as 2012 brought unseasonably cold weather this time last year. Saturday and Sunday showed declines year on year of 14.5% and 9.5% respectively as many consumers stayed away from the shopping centres to enjoy the sun. All UK regions showed a year-on-year decline, although seven of the 11 saw a week-on-week rise. Stores may not have been buzzing but a number of retailers still posted some very promising quarterly or annual results, with some expectations of expansion into new regions through continued growth.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending July 14, 2012

-4.1% -4.9%

Clothing

Total fashion

-8.22% Footwear

There was a small improvement in results but demand remained subdued with little to get excited about. Like-for-likes ended the week marginally positive (+0.8%) with results again influenced by unseasonal weather. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs BRISTOL 10.5%

1. Design 7.9% 2. Production 7% 3. Merchandising 6.4% 4. Sales 5.6%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.8% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Price increases drive growth in kidswear, while menswear experiences a decline

£14.3bn Expenditure

+1.7%

+0.4%

1.4bn

£10.08

-1.2%

Average selling price

Number of units

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending June 9, 2013 versus 2012

30%

-3.1%

SPORTS STORES

SUPERMARKETS

DISCOUNTERS

HOME SHOPPING

PURE-PLAY ETAIL

FOOTWEAR

Natasha Shatford, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

DEPT STORES

24 weeks ending June 9, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

GENERAL STORES

Decline in sales of full-price product

0% INDIES

Decline in spend on clothing, footwear and accessories by under-45s

FASHION CHAINS

-1.3%

Kidswear experiences the strongest growth and this is purely price driven

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● VENTE-PRIVEE.COM has launched FRANCE

GERMANY

USA

Club Supply Chain. The new operational structure aims to enhance collaboration between the French etailer and its 2,000 partner brands. A consultation group with representatives of major brands will meet throughout the year to share best practice.

● TOPSHOP and Topman are to open as

shop-in-shops in the Düsseldorf Karstadt department store. The shop-in-shops are scheduled to launch on September 4. The concept will also be rolled out at stores in Berlin, Munich and Hamburg.

SPAIN

● UNIQLO will open 10 more stores in EUROPE

New York, New Jersey, Connecticut and California this autumn. The openings will bring its total US store count to 17.

● C&A plans to close 21 stores in Spain

in August as part of a restructuring programme. However, the retailer will also invest €12m (£10.4m) in opening new stores and remodelling profitable ones.

Uniqlo is ready to take the next step in our US expansion by opening more smaller format and mall stores Larry Meyer, chief operating officer, Uniqlo USA and group senior vice-president, Fast Retailing

● ESPRIT is reshaping its top management

board in Europe with the addition of Johan Munck as director of retail for the brand in Europe (excluding Germany), Middle East and Africa. Munck is currently head of retail for France.

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 15

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Mainstream WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

Top 10

Top 10 1

Gerry Weber

1

Meyer

2

Joseph Ribkoff

2

Douglas

3

Olsen

4

The Masai Clothing Company

5

Frank Lyman

6

Marc Cain

7

Michèle

8

Adini

9 10

Gant Brook Taverner

5

Magee

6

Gurteen Olymp

8

Double Two

Poppy

9

Camel Active

Lebek

10

Barbour

Top 5 1

Dresses

2

Tops

3

Trousers

4

T-shirts

5

Jeans

Top 5

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -4% year-on-year change

£156 AVERAGE SPEND

£5,336 tAKINGS tHIS WEEK +3.6% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Shirts

2

Trousers

3

Suits

4

Jackets

5

Shorts

£90

Top 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Gerry Weber

Week ending July 6, 2013

1

2

Joseph Ribkoff

2

Gant

3

The Masai Clothing Company

3

Casa Moda

4

Marc Cain

4

Gurteen

5

Lebek

5

Remus Uomo

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Gerry Weber

2

Joseph Ribkoff

3

Olsen

4

Marble

5

Marc Cain

-4% FOOtFAll Change for week ending July 6, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

-2%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Gant

2

Douglas

3

Remus Uomo

4

Casa Moda

5

Superdry

INDIE WATCH

-3.36%

AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS

FOOtFAll Change for week ending July 6, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

84 THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

+18.4%

+12.2%

Week ending July 6, 2013

Meyer

%

of womenswear indies have seen a rise in sales of summer dresses

PROFIt MARGIN

AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD

Data for June 3 to June 30, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Brands with the best sell-through 1

3 4

7

Best-selling categories of the week

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 16

£4,369

General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com

CLOSE-UP I Rob Feldmann

Drapers / JUly 20 2013 _ 18

Dig for victory After leading a management buyout, the chief executive of BrandAlley is cultivating fresh opportunities for the private Sale site Words by James Knowles

A

s we take a seat in the leafy garden brandalley has designed for the Chelsea Flower Show, Rob Feldmann, the private Sale website’s chief executive, tells me he had “a horrible sleepless night.” Then, with a wry smile, he adds: “because I realised I’m so horribly competitive. It’s terrible, isn’t it?”

Competitive yes, but then the sleepless night was worth it; brandalley scooped the Gold award in the conceptual Fresh Gardens category that very morning.

It isn’t just sheep Feldmann has been counting of late, having led a management buyout of the £33m UK subsidiary of brandalley in January – a move backed by private investors and one that separated it from existing shareholders news International and brandalley France, which owned 49% and 51% respectively. The decision to break away was made because brandalley in the UK was falling behind by being tied to its French parent, which serves a country where ecommerce is developing at a slower pace than on these shores. as a result the past seven months have been all about investment, with brandalley gearing up for a full UK relaunch at the end of august.

“It’s very exciting obviously,” Feldmann enthuses, as we sit within the roped-off confines of the garden while visitors to the show peer in. melissa littler, brandalley’s UK marketing and PR director, explains that this involves new front and back-end platforms and a fresh look

and feel, and that slowly more functionality will be added. When I ask what changes customers will see, she replies: “because we’re a members’ club we need to look at how our members [can] have the best experience. So we’re looking at what a VIP club looks like for our best members, we’re looking at our whole CRm [customer relationship management] strategy to [better] communicate to people and optimise purchase behaviour.”

At present, 15% of brandalley’s UK sales come via mobile, with Feldmann expecting this to rise to 20% by the end of this year. as a result one area being explored as part of the relaunch is how to maximise this – a new mobile-optimised site is launching at the same time as the main site, and littler says the company is now working towards “the easiest, fewest clicks route [to browse and pay]”.

Feldmann adds: “now the opportunity is immense for us because we’re separating out, we’re developing our own website which would be totally separate and much more user-friendly, much easier to shop and I think much more beautiful. We’re doing it full-pelt at the moment.”

For Sach Kukadia, founding partner and buying director at rival private Sales etailer Secret Sales, the changes are overdue. “The brandalley site, despite being somewhat dated, remains very functional and supports easy navigation. The checkout process is also quite efficient but fails in aesthetics. Flat design and u

CLOSE-UP I Rob Feldmann

Drapers / JUly 20 2013 _ 20

‘We’ve sold 18,000 units of Superdry in four days. It’s an enormous volume, very quick and sharp’ large images aid in converting customers and therefore I expect a change in their web design in the following weeks.” now that brandalley in the UK no longer has to use the same aesthetics as the French site following the mbo, it hopes the slicker and more modern relaunched site will improve the user experience, boost unique user numbers and enable it to create its own distinct identity.

That identity could help to strengthen brandalley’s UK market position in the private Sale and designer discount sector. Figures for may from Kantar media Compete put brandalley behind Secret Sales in terms of unique users, with 221,004 to its rival’s 233,240, but ahead of other competitors in the sector such as Cocosa at 82,924, The outnet at 60,562, and Vente-privee at 42,382. However, the same data shows brandalley fared better than Secret Sales in terms of number of visits in the same month, at 619,883 compared with 501,116, and also in terms of the accumulative number of minutes spent by total users on the site in the same month, racking up 4.95 million minutes against Secret Sales’ 3.33 million.

When I ask who brandalley’s main UK competitors are, littler is quick to say “still Secret Sales”, before Feldmann adds: “Well, The outnet is probably the strongest. and bicester Village is definitely a competitor.”

However, he adds that bricks-and-mortar outlets can’t compete in terms of sales volumes: “To give you an idea on volume, we’ve sold 18,000 units of Superdry in four days. That is far more than their outlets can do. So it’s an enormous volume, it’s very quick and sharp.”

On tHe FInAnCIAL sIDe, brandalley’s turnover rose 14% year on year for the year to december 31, 2012, while it acquired 70,000 new customers along the way, took its membership tally to more than 3 million for the first time, and the average basket size rose from £69 to £99. and Feldmann adds that in april the average basket size rose to £100, which he says reflects the quality of brands on the site. Since the end of last year the UK management team has been tasked with elevating brandalley’s offer to a

Members only: Rob Feldmann and Melissa Littler in BrandAlley’s garden at the Chelsea Flower Show

more premium positioning, focusing on higher-end and luxury brands, with recent Sales including brands such as michael Kors, Chloé and d&G. “What we’ve done in the last year is key, focusing on [brands such as] Ugg rather than Havaianas, for example. Havaianas is a great product but it’s quite cheap. So we’re focusing on the more expensive brands and finding the customer base is responding really well to them,” says Feldmann. He adds that for the right brands the discounts don’t need to be huge, noting Hunter, Joules and Ted baker as good examples of brands that aren’t often on Sale and are thus able to entice customers with a smaller discount.

KUKADIA CreDIts BrAnDALLeY with having a strong fashion offer, “particularly on womenswear”, and isn’t surprised by its more premium direction, as it is an area he says Secret Sales has been focusing on for a while, particularly in footwear and accessories. “The behaviour of young consumers has changed over the last half decade. In the past consumers shopped by brand but now [they] are heavily pivoted on price. Consequently, fast-fashion retailers are dictating how consumers shop, which over recent years has developed a disposable mentality,” says Kukadia.

He adds: “It is this ideology that supports brandalley’s strategy to move towards more premium brands. due to their lead times, there is little value [in] selling products similar to fast-fashion retailers so the sensible option is to move into the premium market. This way the items are worth waiting two or three weeks for.”

a recent change in strategy for off-price rival Cocosa was to axe its members-only strategy.

Jessica Fioriti, analyst at market research firm Verdict Research, says the move paid off for brandalley’s mohamed al Fayed-owned rival, which reported 30% growth for the year to January 21, 2013. “by opening up its membership Cocosa ensured its offer is much more accessible and widened its potential customer base. Without the need to sign up, it has made Cocosa’s site more user-friendly and its offer more transparent, which in turn heightens impulse buying, rather than a purchase being hindered by the need to sign up.”

Feldmann and littler assure Drapers that brandalley has no plans to follow Cocosa, denying that the members-only policy is a short-term business model. Instead they say brandalley’s members-only model enables them to really get to know their customers and their preferences, something the new systems being put in place in the relaunch will support.

Kukadia agrees that the members-only business model has legs long term, noting that they “serve as effective clearance mechanisms for premium brands to sell inventories discreetly without jeopardising their integrity or devaluing products.”

With a website relaunch just weeks away, you’d think Feldmann and his team would have enough on their plate, but you’d have thought wrong. Instead, with discussions ongoing about producing an own-label collection and the possibility of one day entering international markets, Feldmann’s competitive spirit should ensure the seeds are sown for further growth.

_

SPRING 2014

Call for appointment: Veldhoven

UK

Ltd.

1st

Floor

Alexander

house,

0207 751 9000

14-16

Peterborough

Road,

London,

SW6

3BN

SHOPWATCH

Le Coq Sportif

_ Covent Garden

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 22

JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

R

emember le Coq Sportif? Football fans from the 1980s probably will, as it was the terracewear of choice for many, taking the form of windcheaters and trackie bottoms with the characteristic cockerel logo applied to the garments at strategic points.

Then at some point before the dawn of the 21st century it seemed almost to disappear as new brands found favour and the world seemed to become, at one point, the domain of either Nike or Adidas. But it didn’t go away, and now it’s reborn with the opening in May of a store in Covent Garden’s Earlham Street, on the site of the late Firetrap store that occupied one corner of Seven Dials.

The new two-floor store has a prominent position and is a world away from what was there before.

02

COnCEPT 

The layout is simple. As this is predominantly a male brand, the collection on the ground floor is for men, while downstairs there is a range for women and a selection of ‘Tour de France performance’ merchandise. Interestingly there is no difference between the genders in terms of the way things look, either in the merchandise or the fabric of the store itself.

This is a bright, airy space that gives shoppers the freedom to move around the store.

01

VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG 

In terms both of layout and display, this one belongs to the ‘more is less’ school of retail thought, with plain floors, white walls and perimeter rails showing off the brightly coloured tops and footwear.

In the mid-shop, plain

plywood tables with pigeonholes ensure there are few distractions from the product. It’s the use of the product as quasi-art that really carries this store though. This is the handiwork of the Wilson Brothers, the arty duo who have

worked with brands including Nike and Diesel. In this instance, they have a sculpture composed of bicycle wheels that turn endlessly overhead. Much of the product is deployed on the walls in eye-catching frames.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 23 earlham Street, Covent garden, WC2H NumbER of flooRS Two opENED May 2013 AmbIENCE Sportif

03

05

There is actually a fairly limited range of stock and therefore the trick of knowing all there is to know about what’s on offer is probably not that hard to master. That said, the two members of staff who were manning the store on the day of visiting did know their stuff and seemed genuinely concerned about making a good impression – and that a purchase was made.

They were both cheerful and friendly and in keeping with the relatively laid-back vibe of this part of Covent Garden.

There is a sense that many of those wandering through the doors of this shop will make a purchase to look good, rather than to enjoy performance sportswear. It is possible to do both, however, and this brings le Coq Sportif head to head with Rapha and the more modestly priced

Room for improvement 01

As things stand, if you’re not a hardcore cyclist, this could look almost off-putting. There is the danger that the fashion crowd may go elsewhere.

02

Le Coq Sportif may have been around since the 1980s, but its sudden appearance in this store looks almost Lazarus-like and more needs to be done to market both brand and shop.

03

Do something about the fitting rooms! The black, red and white mosaic looks as if it is a Firetrap remnant and spoils the ambience of its surroundings.

COmPETITIOn  brands that are found around Covent Garden, including Nike. However, this is about fashion as much as being at the head of the peloton, meaning that anything from Superdry, just down the road, to American Apparel can be considered tough competition for shopper spend.

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 23

SERVICE 

04

PRODUCT 

Top of the range are cycling tops in the Tour de France performance range.

These retail at just shy of £100, but more typical are the related tops that are sold on the ground floor for around the £60 mark.

This puts le Coq Sportif in a good place when set against

brands such as luxury label Rapha, which make le Coq Sportif ’s pricing look – ahem – like chicken feed.

There is also a substantial range of brightly coloured training and sports shoes which are relatively inexpensive, although most of the offer was reduced.

06

VERDICT An ASTuTe repoSiTioning

In its 1980s heyday le Coq Sportif was a fashion brand for a football demographic. This appears to have changed, on the evidence of what’s on show in this store. The rise of the cycling fraternity makes the offer look both timely and astute. The store also looks good and there is every chance you might take a look around if you’re wandering by. like so many other brands that were once almost ubiquitous, however, it is quite hard to escape the notion that this may be a little too late in terms of trying to rescue the 33 50 brand’s equity.

To see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

ECOMM

Making an ethical future?

Sportswear giant Nike has created an app that lets designers research their environmental impact

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 24

KEELY STOCKER is online editor at Drapers and has extensive knowledge of online fashion and high-traffic websites

A

new app from Nike, called Making, takes designers through a step-by-step process for choosing fabrics based on their environmental credentials. Making then ranks materials on how environmentally friendly they are, taking into account water, chemistry, energy and waste.

The information compares each material and rates it accordingly, giving each a score out of a possible 50. It also looks at whether a material uses recycled or organic content.

The data for the app comes from the Nike Materials Sustainability Index,

▼ Data bank: the app is the result of seven years of research by Nike into the relative environmental impacts of different materials used in clothing production

a database the brand says it has built up over seven years of research and analysis.

Lee Holman, vice-president of apparel design at Nike, says of the app: “We’ve created the Making app to empower any designer to make better materials choices to ultimately create products that are better for consumers and the planet.”

Ricky Moakes, colour and materials designer at Lacoste Footwear, says: “The app would be handy but I’d look at it for research purposes rather than as a day-to-day tool. I think those working in other categories such as high-end or performance-driven lines would be more likely to use it because they’ll have the budget to be able to make these material choices and will have a consumer that is more likely to be reactive to the type of material used – the consumer we go after is much more worried about price.”

Jilly Richards, womenswear designer at young fashion brand Superdry, agrees price is a big factor. “I love the concept, it’s great to understand the impact fabrics have on the environment. However, cost is always a key factor,” she says.

“Although silk ranks higher than viscose on the base material score, it’s not

p Eco aware: the slick, simple user interface should help the app appeal to designers

‘We’ve created the Making app to empower any designer’

Lee Holman, vice-president of apparel design, Nike

always feasible to use silk instead of a synthetic due to the cost price. Therefore the app is something interesting to keep in mind and creates better understanding of the fabrics we use, but I wouldn’t entirely base my choices on using it.”

Nike says it is committed to sustainability and wants to put its research to good use and be seen as a leader in helping the industry become more environmentally friendly.

By working with student designers at the London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion, Nike hopes to inspire a new generation of designers to build sustainability into the development of products. Students using the Making app could see how to choose materials with lower environmental impacts without compromising on design.

While many retailers still see sustainability as a challenge, a product like Making that encourages awareness to start at the early design stage is certainly something that can hopefully boost sustainable thinking.

To keep up with the latest ecommerce news and views, go to www.drapersonline.com

Showing at moda UK Stand F20 August 11 - 13

“House of ethnically inspired fashion forward classics� www.shefalicouture.com Email: shefali@shefalicouture.com

DIRECTIONS Chanel

Julien Fournié

Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen

Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Valentino

Valentino

Giambattista Valli

Alexandre Vauthier

Alexandre Vauthier

Yiqing Yin

Yiqing Yin

Zuhair Murad

Atelier Gustavolins

Atelier Gustavolins

Elie Saab

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 27

Iris van Herpen

Giorgio Armani Privé Christophe Josse Elie Saab Alexandre Vauthier

Giorgio Armani Privé Bouchra Jarrar

This week’s hero

The New Nudes With the recent autumn 13 Paris Couture shows falling between the resort and ready-to-wear spring 14 women’s collections, we were provided with another welcome opportunity to spot new design ideas. While couture doesn’t always translate into commercial appeal, it was hard to ignore the prominence of flesh tones this season, from shimmering, sheer textures to moderate peachy hues and heavier pink or beige fabrics. A pale and interesting inspiration for a continuing trend as spring 14 rolls on.

CATWALKING.COM

Bouchra Jarrar

Giorgio Armani Privé

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

THE BUZZ ON THE RADAR — Òkun

/ Fashion foreword /

Does the early bird really catch the worm?

CATWALKING.COM

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 28

D

_ Ian Wright

uring our hop across the Channel to womenswear exhibition Who’s Next, the Drapers team spoke to buyers, brand managers and sales guys alike, all of whom nodded to how tricky the timing of the show was for them. Where London Collections: Men seemingly got the jump on the rest of the menswear show season when it launched in 2012, preceding the long-standing Pitti Uomo by a week, for Who’s Next going out on a limb doesn’t look like it’s working out quite as much.

Buyers had an issue with ill-prepared brands – price lists weren’t fully finalised when the doors opened, so orders couldn’t be written. Meanwhile brands bemoaned the perceived lack of footfall at the show, which perhaps is a direct consequence of how early the dateline is in relation to the rest of the womenswear show calendar.

Many felt Who’s Next was too long at four days, citing Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter as big shows that are more than long enough at three days.

In the relentless pursuit of the new and the eagerness to bring the freshest fashion to the market first, are we just getting ahead of ourselves? If ever there was a season to show how out of sync some parts of the fashion industry are with the ‘real world’, it was this summer. Flimsy tops, lightweight dresses and summery shorts dropped into store in the early months of the year, far in advance of when the warmer weather usually kicks in and even more premature considering it took until last week for the sun to get his hat on properly, as Marc Bolland flagged up at the recent Marks & Spencer AGM. With outerwear coming through strongly in both last week’s Menswear Special and this week’s womenswear extravaganza, isn’t it about time we reconfigured when our seasons are? The bird can be as early as he likes, but if there’s no worm to catch, he returns home hungry.

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget!

Look out for...

Luxury men’s beachwear brand Òkun has honed its exuberant range of Africaninspired printed swim shorts for spring 14 after its launch last spring. Popular in the US, its quality, quickdrying Italian polyamide and a steamy summer campaign should make the brand a scorcher for its stockists. Wholesale prices range from £30 to £37.

Contact: 07958 306420 www.okunbeachwear.com

/ Trendwatch /

Celestine Eleven gets into the spirit The latest in a line of concept stores to set up shop in London’s Shoreditch, Celestine Eleven opened last month on Holywell Lane. It promises to deliver a means to live well: aesthetically, intellectually and spiritually.

The selection of labels includes quirky womenswear from JW Anderson and Meadham Kirchhoff. And with a spiritual outlook matched by a dose of modern tech, you’ll also find an apothecary with a bespoke medical plant garden, a perfume bar and an alternative therapies clinic. www.celestineeleven.com

Shaun Samson

Hermès

Richard Nicoll

ON THE BOIL

Workwear knuckles down as streamlined boiler suits come through for spring 14 – a surprising move from the high street to high fashion, but with tailoring and a hint of sports luxe, the style works well.

HIT THE STREETS See what’s hot in the streetwear market in our July 20 special issue

ON THE TEXTILES Kick off autumn 14 with our report from the London Textile Fair next week

THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS

This week’s panel

Carmen Borgonovo The monochrome trend continues to be strong as designers offer sharp and timeless silhouettes, while artful florals and cool surf elements as seen at Mother of Pearl and Preen (pictured) look fresh and perfect for the new season.

Barbara Horspool I love the simplicity of blues and white seen in the resort collections (Kenzo resort, pictured).

For fabrics, it will be natural cotton, linen and silk voiles for airy print dresses. Above all, the season is about layering for both men and women.

FELICITY WINTERFLOOD Director of womenswear indie Strawberry in Chichester, West Sussex

BARBARA HORSPOOL Product director at womenswear chain Jigsaw

SARAHJANE BAYNES Fashion director of brand agency Capitalize

CARMEN BORGONOVO Fashion director at premium etailer My-Wardrobe.com

Felicity Winterflood Small ankle boots which are a cross between biker and cowboy style will be popular. Patterned trousers, including leggings, will also be strong. Prominent colours will be olive, forest green and cream (Jason Wu Resort, pictured).

Sarahjane Baynes There is a strong emergence of Middle Eastern influences (Marni resort, pictured); boho style but with more luxurious fabrics and richer embroidery. Colours will be sapphire, purple, turquoise and gold. There is also a youth trend with a 1970s influence.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 29

What are your predictions for spring 14 womenswear?

DIRECTIONS I BRANDWATCH

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 30

The artful use of graphic elements combines with simple, understated styles

Fabrics developed in-house make the spring 14 collection stand out

Stills

The Dutch label is making ripples in the premium womenswear market, IAN WRIGHT discovers THE BASICS WHOLESALE PRICES £25 to £220 WEBSITE www.stills.eu TELEPHONE 020 7751 9028

A

s the name suggests, Stills is not a shouty brand. Based in Amsterdam and owned by brand house Veldhoven Group, this small but passionate label is quietly going about building a strong premium womenswear brand that combines classic northern European/Scandinavian simplicity with an artful use of graphic elements.

Fabrics too play a huge role in how head of design Korrie Vulkers, general manager Martin

Tramper and their team have developed the collections since coming on board to revitalise the brand in March 2010, sourcing the finest textiles from around the globe. “We seek fabrics that are special enough to dictate the design,” says Tramper. “We try to rework materials and create our own new surfaces.”

Around 90% of Stills’ fabrics (everything from intricate jacquards, technical sports textiles and leathers) come from Italian mills, while its silks are sourced from China.

Having visited the atelier during production of its spring 14 range and seen the fabrics close-up, what is all the more pleasing is the price point.

With a 2.8 mark-up and an average wholesale

price of £55, the spring 14 price tags position the brand at the premium end of the market, but the prices belie the high-end quality of textile, design and construction. Tramper says the collection has “a sense of timeless elegance and luxury with a modern attitude” – it’s a grown-up range that is at once familiar but interesting. Showing at Scoop this weekend, key items include a slinky silk deconstructed printed suit (jacket £126, trousers £95), a raw-edge leather dress stitched onto stretch cotton at £220 and a bomber jacket in an open 3D mesh for £126.

It’s an aesthetic that really works over here with its chic shake-up of the placid premium market. Something to shout about then...

THE EDIT Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 33

Womenswear spring 14

Dress: Marc Cain, £POA

Introduction by Ian Wright

Last week the boys were back in town for our Menswear Special, so this week here come the girls. Our Womenswear Special is packed with inspiration and essential information to guide you through the season’s key trends, shapes and items. As usual we’ve hit the first big womenswear show of the season, Who’s Next in Paris, and brought back some of the shining stars from the City of Light in our comprehensive report on p104. We’ve also been busy analysing two of the season’s key trends. While autumn seasons are always dominated by intricate, rich layering, spring seasons can be a little lightweight by comparison.

But it looks like spring 14 has got its own take on the textile-heavy trend, with the wearer’s skin itself becoming part of the layering – see our first fashion shoot over the page. Then we take a tribal trip with a story that explores what we’re calling abstracted ethnicity – turn to p50 for the full effect. On p62 we unveil our guide to spring 14’s most important trends, big and small. Trends move on, colours go out of fashion, but you can always count on Drapers to be beating the right (tribal) drum.

u

Sheer FORCE

See-through fabrics, lace and loose weaves offer a clear direction Photography by DAVID RALPH Fashion director IAN WRIGHT

Junior fashion editor GRAEME MORAN Junior fashion writer EMILY NORVAL

Jacket Joseph Ribkoff, £79; bra Fauve, £23.63; jeans Diesel, £58.82

Item Brand, £00; Item Brand, £P00; Item Brand, £00;

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 36

Coat Selected Femme, £50; top Samsøe & Samsøe, £35; jeans 7 For All Mankind, £278

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 37 Shirt Conditions Apply, ÂŁ44; trousers Vadum, ÂŁ68

This page Top Dagmar, £60; knickers Blackspade, £2.20 Opposite page Top Equipment, £68; trousers Vadum, £68

Item Brand, £00; Item Brand, £P00; Item Brand, £00; Item Brand, £00

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 41 This page Top Joules, £29.15 Opposite page Top Vadum, £85; jeans Diesel, £58.82

Drapers / MONTH 00 2012 _ 42

Drapers / MONHT 00 2012 _ 43 This page Cardigan Twist & Tango, £46; vest Samsøe & Samsøe, £14; knickers Fauve, £10.97 Opposite page Dress Diesel, £47.06

This page Blouse Halston Heritage, £92; trousers Filippa K, £54 Opposite page Coat Ganni, £86; top AngelEye, £18.50; jeans Replay, £60

Drapers / MONTH 00 2012 _ 46

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 47 This page Jumper John Smedley, £41.70; jacket Prey of London, £63 Opposite page Dress Morella Sassoon, £280 Hair and make-up Nancy Sumner using Dr Hauschka and Label M Digital operator Tom Griffiths Lighting assistant Mark Brown Retoucher Callum Sadler Model Alexandra Vittekova at Premier Fashion assistants Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall & Alice Trueman

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 48

A tribal Quest Textural interplay updates the familiar pattern clashing, with a subtle ethnic slant Photography by Harley Weir Fashion director ian WrigHt

Junior fashion editor graeme moran Junior fashion writer emily norval

Drapers / MONTH 00 2012 _ 50

Previous page Top Selected Femme, £18.33; trousers Ganni, £120 This page Bikini top Jets by Jessika Allen, £POA; trousers Selected Femme, £29.31

Drapers / MONHT 00 2012 _ 51 Dress Baum und Pferdgarten, £103; dress (just visible) Ruby Rocks, £20

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 52

This page Top Verónica Moncho Lobo, £60; trousers Vadum, £47 Opposite page Jacket Baum und Pferdgarten, £114; dress Samsøe & Samsøe, £39

This page T-shirt Maison Scotch, £16; shorts Selected Femme, £18.96 Opposite page Dress Ruby Rocks, £20

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 56

Bikini top Jets by Jessika Allen, £POA; trousers Selected Femme, £15

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 57 T-shirt Maison Scotch, £16; shorts Bruuns Bazaar, £33

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 58

This page Jacket Maison Scotch, £69; shirt Tommy Hilfiger, £POA Opposite page Jumper Maison Scotch, £32; jeans Replay, £54

Hair and make-up Nancy Sumner using MAC and Bumble & Bumble Hair and make-up assistant Kat Parnell Photographer’s assistant Tean Roberts Models Martina at Elite, Terri at Storm Fashion assistants Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall & Alice Trueman

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 60

Get the blues

From lighter aquatic tones to deep indigo shades, womenswear has turned true blue

Henr i Lloy d £27 .42 Yves Klein blue has already been popular across spring 14 resort collections

Dranella £21

Dagmar £67

ngo £30 Twist & Ta

Key spring pattern

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 61

Dierent shades combined add depth to prints

Baum und Pferdg arten ÂŁ114

Spring/Summer 2014

Crea Concept 34/35 Eastcastle Street 1st Floor London W1W 8DW Tel: 020 7 436 0631 Fax: 020 7323 1004 Paulette@creaconcept.co.uk Jade@creaconcept.co.uk

THe ediT I DIRECTIONS

I want candy

The slouchy bomber is popular across cardigan styles

Sugary pastel colours emphasise the softness of spring 14 knits, while the cottons themselves are as light as the shades

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 63

£44 Sandwich

Musto £37.50

Cristina Sa baiduc

Crum pet £7 5

£104

DIRECTIONS I THe ediT

øe £47 & Sams Samsøe Ruby Rocks £20

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 64

The trend works best across casual pieces such as day dresses

Around the world From batik elements in prints to ethnic embellishments, travel to faraway lands is a key inspiration for spring 14

Brand to watch Blank £10 4

cotch £40 Maison S

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 66

Dare to flare

Ganni £30

Filippa K £9 0

Flared skirts are popular on dresses this season, from a drop waist to a circle skirt

Halston Heritage £156

141 Twelve £ Twenty8

Standout jacquard

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 67

Textures are key, with different materials such as silks, cottons and jacquards working through the same trend

Ruby Rock s ÂŁ20

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Showcase lace Spring 14’s daytime dresses see lace overlays providing an interesting but understated additional textural element

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 68

Yumi £30

Dresses sit high on the neck with minimal flare to avoid a girly overload

n £60 Londo Yanny

Yumi £22

Montiq ue £60

James Lakeland £70

SPRING SUMMER 2014 48 MORTIMER STREET LONDON W1W 7RN F O R I N F O R M AT I O N C O N TA C T S A L E S @ U T TA M L O N D O N . C O M

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Mad Hatter’s tea party

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 70

Tea dresses in vintage-inspired fabrics and patterns make for appealing and occasionally eccentric daytime pieces

Key spring shape

Belted dresses emphasise a 1940s or 1950s silhouette

5 Cole £6 Karen

Eucalyptu s £26

Voodo o Vixe n £15.9 5

9 Ruby Rocks £1

£20 Sweet Liberty

OFENSTEIN

COLLECTION

SPRING 2014 COLLECTION SHOWING LONDON // 4 – 16 August // 10 Whitfield Street London W1T 2RE // Tel.: 020 7580 2577

WWW.BETTYBARCLAY.CO.UK

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Bling it on

Eveningwear glamour is taken to extremes with heavy beading and embellishments

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 72

Big impact piece Baum un dP

ferdgart en £85

OA Ariella Couture £P

50 rvey £4 Gill Ha

All-over sequins on more casual silhouettes make for interesting pieces

Halston Heritage £139

1.50 AngelEye £2

0.73 er Senses £7 Kilian Kern

Seduce your skin Wearing a Repeat sweater is like wearing a hug.

It envelops your skin in soft, elegant luxury, giving you a warm inner glow.

The ultimate seduction for your skin.

I n f o : C i c e l y / J a c k y, F. O. S . F a s h i o n M a r k e t i n g , M o r l e y H o u s e , 3 2 0 R e g e n t S t r e e t , L o n d o n W 1 B 3 B F

t : 0 2 0 7 6 3 6 7111

e:repeat@fosfashion.co.uk

A standalone brand or the perfect way to enhance your brand mix

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Natural world Key spring detail

Designers are answering the call of the wild with animal prints and florals

Bruuns Baza ar £44

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 74

Maison Scotch £2 8

£13.50 Steilmann

Embroidery updates the usual placement graphic

e £16.67 Sugarhill Boutiqu

Olsen £28.82

Fransa £54.99

Replay £46

Nümph £24

Woolly thinking Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 75

Chunky knits for spring make for a safe buy, especially with the UK’s unpredictable weather

Contrasting trims add structure to fluid tops

Blank £42

Cond itions Apply £54

Artistic licence Arty prints, ranging from geometric patterns to watercolour effects, are popular on silky pieces

Ruby Rocks | ModoAgency 59 Great Portland Street, London, W1W 7LJ mbl: 0044 7973 718301 | showroom: 0044 207 436 1817 e: jenny@modoagency.onmicrosoft.com www.rubyrocks.com twitter: @RubyRocksLtd facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/RubyRocksUk

Please come and see us at Pure 4th- 6th August 2013.

Stand E44 Young Fashion/Spirit Section.

THE EdiT I DIRECTIONS

Raspberry kisses Lingerie and swimwear gets romantic with varied shades of pink from raspberry to fuchsia

Fantasie £23.35

Born to be blue Gossard £30.12

The blue trend continues in swim and underwear with matching sets in solid colours

Fauve £38.82 Freya £23.36 Beach Riot £58

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 77

Eberjey £30.80

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Suits you

One-piece swimsuits in unusual patterns and finishes offer something different from the standard bikini

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 78

Key spring shape

Fantas ie £24.5 7

POA Allen £ Jessika Jets by

5 e £22.7 Panach

Suits cut higher on the leg make the one-piece a little more exciting

Volcom £29.54

SHOW DATES london showroom 11/07/13 – 20/09/13

paris showroom 28/09/13 – 01/10/13 43 rue Saint-Sauveur Paris 75002 For information contact

who’s next, fame f118 paris 06/07/13 – 09/07/13

pure, directional l46 london 04/08/13 – 06/08/13

uk-sales@charli.com / intl-sales@charli.com

charli-london.com

t +44 (0) 208 440 1321

designers & agents new york 16/09/13 – 18/09/13

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Tangerine dreams

Juicy shades of orange are the standout trend of spring 14

OA Tommy Hilfiger £P

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 80

Marc Ca in £POA

Charli £4 2

Fever £22

Fransa £ 39.99

Yanny Lo ndon £11 5

The brighter the better works for this trend

w £80 Bernsha

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 81

Graham & Spencer £90

Yumi £20

Komodo £30

20 ue £ outiq B ll i rh Suga

Baron O h £103

Scoop International Gallery 6, Saatchi Gallery, London 21 – 23 July

London Showroom By appointment only 24 July – 30 August

020 7720 6789 studio@libbylondon.com www.libbylondon.com

THE EDIT I DIRECTIONS

Bottoms up Trousers work as statement pieces this spring, with prints working across lightweight fabrics Conditio ns Apply £54

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 83

New abstract graphics

Blank £52

2nd Day £55

Steilm ann £22.5 0 arten £66 Baum und Pferdg

Julie Brandt £66

que £15 ill Bouti Sugarh

CONTINUED

Pure Stand K110 Moda, NEC Stand G14 BBEH Stand C22/41

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522

FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518

E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com

WEB. www.mascaracollection.com

Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

THe ediT I DIRECTIONS

Selected Femme £25.86

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 85

Kilian Kern er Senses £4 9.16

Spring pastel colours keep the trend fresh

Ruby Roc ks £20

Maison Scotch £48

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Hero item Schumac her £63.90

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 86

Prey of London £30

Do a runner Sporty shorts in jazzy prints are big news, with plenty of relaxed silhouettes and soft fabrics Baum und Pferd garte n £55

ic £70 Neobotan

John Smed ley £36.20

Elasticated waists move the look away from tailoring and into sporty

Showcasing our Spring Summer 14 Collection alongside Autumn Winter 13 at PURE London: J50 & MODA Birmingham: J31 www.amariuk.com

|

Tel: 01566 779477

|

email: sales@amaridesigns.co.uk

Spring Summer 14

& Autumn Winter 13 Collections @ PURE LONDON - J46 & MODA BIRMINGHAM - J31

tel: 01566 779477 email: sales@lily-and-me.com web: www.lily-and-me.com

THE EDIT I DIRECTIONS

It takes two

Matching sets are working across different items, making the top-to-toe look a spring essential

Kilian Ker ner

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 89

Key spring shape

Senses ÂŁ8 0.22

5 Ruby Rocks ÂŁ3

Skirts and shirts paired together add an interesting silhouette to the sporty look

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Quilty pleasures

Bold contrast patterns Roxy £POA

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 90

Quilted jackets take a turn as essential outerwear in an abundance of print designs

Franklin & Marshall £33

Selected Femme £18.96

Fransa £74.99

Zipped-through jackets are a neat finish on otherwise puffy pieces

Showing at Moda 11th-13th Aug. Stand H41 UK - Joy Redfern. T. 07876 333397. joyredfern@me.com Ireland - Bellina Creations. T. 00353 1429 5440. sales@bellinacreations.ie

www.elisacavaletti.com

THE EdiT I DIRECTIONS

Bomb squad

Fresh takes on the trend light the fuse of the feminine bomber jacket

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 93

h £69 n Scotc Maiso

Silky fabrics soften the silhouette while maintaining the structured shape

2nd D ay

£135

t £127 Equipmen

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Lead the pack

lm £132 Of The Rea

Leather motorcycle jackets, which carry through from autumn, remain a crucial trend for spring 14

Closed £POA

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 94

Samsøe & Samsøe £147

7 For All M ankind £8 4

Fransa £94.99

Parka £ 155

138 Ganni £

Quality leather is essential to this style

NEW HALL4

17 - 19 SEPT. 2013 - PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE INTERNATIONAL TRIMMINGS AND COMPONENTS SHOW FOR FASHION AND DESIGN

modamont.com

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

A hint of kink

Whether panelled, laser-cut or faux, leather adds some spice to spring pieces

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 96

Joann e McG illivray £125

54.89 Guess £

Realm Of The

£95

£96 2nd Day

Feminine silhouettes are given a makeover with tougher fabrics

Ganni £120

øe £117 & Sams Samsøe

Selecte d Fem me £7 0.35

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 97

Dranell a ÂŁ119

Pitch perfect panels

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / july 20 2013 _ 98

Brand list # 2nd Day 020 7499 2522 www.day.dk 7 For All Mankind 020 7608 9100 uk.7forallmankind.com A AngelEye 020 8838 5979 www.angeleyefashion.com Ariella Couture 020 8883 7288 www.ariella.com B Baron Oh 020 3286 8174 www.baronoh.com Baum und Pferdgarten 020 7580 6244 www.baumundpferdgarten.com Beach Riot 020 7183 0007 www.beachriot.com Bernshaw 020 7612 0100 www.bernshaw.com Blackspade 01423 885374 www.blackspade.com Blank 020 7739 6510 www.bl-nk.co.uk Bruuns Bazaar 00 45 3377 0055 www.bruunsbazaar.com C Charli 020 8440 1321 www.charli.co.uk Closed 00 49 2118 282 710 www.closed.com Conditions Apply 020 7739 6510 www.conditionsapply.co.uk Cristina Sabaiduc 020 7193 6009 www.cristinasabaiduc.com Crumpet 07971 103329 www.crumpetcashmere.com D Dagmar 020 7323 2115 www.houseofdagmar.se Diesel 020 7520 7700 www.diesel.com Dranella 020 7636 9060 www.dranella.com

E Eberjey 020 7499 4598 www.eberjey.com Equipment 020 7428 3280 www.equipmentfr.com Eucalyptus 020 7740 6323 www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk F Fantasie 01536 760282 www.fantasie.com Fauve 01536 760282 www.fauve.com Fever 020 7636 6326 www.feverdesigns.co.uk Filippa K 020 7323 2115 www.filippa-k.com Franklin & Marshall 020 7488 1380 www.franklinandmarshall.com Fransa 020 7636 9060 www.fransa.com Freya 01536 760282 www.freyalingerie.com G Ganni 07904 969012 www.gannistore.dk Gill Harvey 020 7436 9992 www.gillharvey.com Gossard 01159 246767 www.gossard.com Graham & Spencer 020 7580 8644 www.grahamandspencer.com Guess 020 7079 3810 www.guess.com H Halston Heritage 020 7608 9100 www.halston.com Henri Lloyd 01617 991212 www.henrilloyd.com J James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jets by Jessika Allen www.jets.com.au

Joanne McGillivray 0141 328 1471 www.joannemcgillivray.com John Smedley 01629 534571 www.johnsmedley.com Joseph Ribkoff 0800 2943373 www.ribkoff.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com Julie Brandt 020 8964 0482 www.juliebrandt.dk K Karen Cole 020 7495 2665 www.karencole.co.uk Kilian Kerner Senses 020 7580 6244 www.kiliankerner.de Komodo 020 7253 9896 www.komodo.co.uk M Maison Scotch 020 7148 6398 www.scotch-soda.com Marc Cain 01704 823005 www.marc-cain.com Montique 020 7291 3650 www.montique.co.uk Morella Sassoon 020 7692 8388 www.morellasassoon.com Musto 01268 491555 www.musto.com N Neobotanic 07503 600726 www.neobotanicfashion.co.uk Nümph 020 7485 8633 www.numph.dk O Of The Realm 01618 290750 www.oftherealm.co.uk Olsen 020 7290 0885 www.olsen.co.uk P Panache 0114 241 8888 www.panache-lingerie.com Parka 020 7424 6889 www.parkalondon.com

Prey of London 020 7488 1380 www.preyoflondon.com R Replay 020 7287 8192 www.replay.it Roxy 020 7392 4020 www.roxy-uk.co.uk Ruby Rocks 020 7436 1817 www.rubyrocks.com S Samsøe & Samsøe 020 7148 6398 www.samsoe.co.uk Sandwich 020 7751 9000 www.sandwich.eu Schumacher 020 7428 3280 www.dorothee-schumacher.co.uk Selected Femme 020 7650 2016 www.selected.com Steilmann 020 7291 0520 www.steilmann.com Sugarhill Boutique 01273 911393 www.sugarhillboutique.com Sweet Liberty 020 7485 8633 T Tommy Hilfiger 020 3144 0900 www.tommy.com Twenty8Twelve 020 7408 4010 www.twenty8twelve.com Twist & Tango 020 7481 2418 www.twisttango.com V Vadum 020 8964 0482 www.vadum-cph.com Verónica Moncho Lobo 020 7225 1774 www.moncholobo.com Voodoo Vixen 020 7702 3155 Volcom 08454 865266 www.volcom.com Y Yanny London 020 7193 6009 www.yannylondon.com Yumi 020 7636 9484 www.yumidirect.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL PREMIÈRE VISION

A BROADER VISION

Paris fabric trade show Première Vision continues to go from strength to strength

P

remière Vision is the ultimate sourcing event for the international fashion market.

Each season, the global fair of apparel fabrics attracts the fashion industry’s key buyers and designers thanks to the high-quality, comprehensive collections offered by its carefully selected exhibitors.

The next edition takes place from September 17 to 19 at Parc des Expositions, Paris.

Pre-registration is open – take advantage of the pre-show entrance rate of €37 (£32) per person for all three days of the show.

Première Vision’s next edition boasts an increase of participants, with 753 exhibitors already confirmed, breaking last September’s record number of 745. Rigorously selected and evaluated to ensure a high level of creativity, expertise, quality of service and financial viability, all of Première Vision’s exhibitors have been validated by a selection committee composed of experts and international textile producers. This select, high-quality offer is a major reason for the show’s success.

September’s edition will present a wealth of fashion information and inspiration for autumn/winter 14/15, providing you with the tools you need to build your collections. To better respond to our visitors’ needs and market expectations, Première Vision has reorganised the fashion information spaces around the show.

You will find inspirational areas which present purely creative influences in colour, pattern and materials. You will also find the exhibitors’ new creations arranged by themes and market offer, presenting new complementarities between fashion and business information.

ESSENTIAL INFO Website Premierevision.com Dates September 17-19, 2013 Open 9am to 6.30pm daily Venue Parc des Expositions, Paris (on RER line B), located between the Eurostar terminus Gare du Nord and Charles de Gaulle Airport.

Price E-passes for all three days and all six Première Vision Pluriel shows cost €37 (£32) in advance or €49 (£42.30) at the door.

Contact Call the London office for more information and to book your tickets on 020 7250 0589.

More than a show, Première Vision brings the fashion market together through exclusive events which give real support to creativity.

September sees the fifth annual PV Awards, for example. Established as an important event in the calendar for textile producers and buyers, the Awards recognise excellence and creativity with four textile prizes awarded by a prestigious jury of fashion designers and influencers.

This year’s jury president is Italian designer Alessandro Sartori, creative director of the LVMH-owned brand Berluti.

Among the must-visit sections of the show is the third edition of Knitwear Solutions, relocated to Hall 6. This section of Première Vision is dedicated to flat knit collections. With

50 registered exhibitors, it has doubled in size since last September.

Première Vision is the cornerstone of Première Vision Pluriel, the group of six shows which includes Indigo, Expofil, Modamont (moved to Hall 4 this season), Le Cuir à Paris (now in Hall 3) and Zoom by Fatex, each one offering sourcing and production solutions for the total supply chain, from fibre to finished garment production. Together they present the collections of more than 1,900 international exhibitors in one arena.

Your Première Vision pass gives you access to all six essential events. Go online and get ready for the world’s most inspiring event for the fashion market.

Inspiring: this September’s Premiére Vision will be the biggest yet, with more exhibitors than ever before. The Knitwear Solutions section alone has doubled in size

DIRECTIONS I WOMENSWEAR SPRING 14

Who’s Next Words by GRAEME MORAN & JILL GEOGHEGAN

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 100

T

he womenswear buying season kicked off in Paris last week at the spring 14 edition of Who’s Next.

The British buyers Drapers spoke to praised the four-day trade show for its fun atmosphere and brand line-up, although there was talk of quiet stands among exhibitors.

Final visitor numbers were 44,502, with an increase in European visitors – including a 10% rise from Italy, Germany and Belgium – and Middle East buyers up 18.1% on June 2012.

Here is our edit of the best brands and emerging trends.

For even more news, brands and pictures from Who’s Next, go to www.drapersonline.com

/ Talking point /

What did you think of Who’s Next?

Sumit Jairath UK and export sales manager of British womenswear label Forever Unique It’s been quiet this season. Since Who’s Next moved from September to July there doesn’t seem to be the same amount of visitors.

The autumn 13 show was phenomenal for us but I think the spring offering is too early in the season.

Goulven Caradec Account manager at Danish contemporary brand Samsøe and Samsøe Not bad. It’s felt quite long. I’m not sure it needs to be a full four days, especially when compared with the likes of Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter, which are two or three days. We’ve had some good buyers but it is difficult at the moment.

Pamela Shiffer Owner and buyer at London womenswear indie Pamela Shiffer I’m seriously impressed with this show, it’s really freshened me up. It’s been the best show in years, certainly in Paris. The way they’ve staged it means you don’t walk around with a black cloud over your head, which means I’m able to make better decisions.

GAT RIMON French womenswear brand Gat Rimon showed great examples of this season’s traveller trend. Described as ‘ethnic chic’, the range boasted strong prints, pops of neon and standout silk items. Key styles in the 120-piece collection includes tie-dyed printed leather, introduced for the first time this season, sequin shift dresses, studded sleeveless tops and transitional jersey cocoon coats. Wholesale prices range from €18 to €200 (£15 to £172).

Contact: 00 33 1 40 13 08 33 www.gatrimon.com

Top 5 Trends Neon pop

Spring 14’s palette was dominated by punches of neon, but worked in new ways. Faded and washed-out highlighter pen shades were the newest and most commercial way to work it, often used as smaller neon accents to make the trend more accessible.

Plenty of panels

AAiKo Ethnic detailing including needlepoint embroidered patterns, beading and geometric tribal prints all tick trend boxes for spring 14 at Aaiko. Transitional knits come in loose weaves, while casual vests become statement sequin-covered pieces. Simple everyday blouses are updated with embroidered and beaded sleeve cuffs. Wholesale prices are €50 (£43) for T-shirts, €80 (£68) for a silk blouse and €90 (£77) for trousers and knits.

Contact: 00 31 20 35 03 49 www.aaiko.com

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 101

Kimem New LA brand Kimen’s 25-piece collection has a cool tomboy vibe, and includes smart shirts with double-layered contrast collars and printed and embroidered crew-neck jumpers. Wholesale prices range from £23 for a T-shirt and £64 for a shirt, going up to £111 for a luxe 100% silk blazer.

Contact: 00 1 310 770 1385 www.kimemclothing.com

Brands updated everything from vests, shirts and dresses with contrasting panels of fabric, adding interest to basic wardrobe staples. Casual pieces such as sporty crew-neck jumpers came dressed up with metallic jacquard panels and yokes, while standard vests and T-shirts featured cotton fronts and silk backs.

Worn in

Following on from autumn 13, texture and tactility were prominent again.

Fabrics came bobbled and worn to create a cosy touch, while cottons and jersey featured semi-sheer burn-out patterns to create a light and airy feel.

Global traveller

Ethnic detailing created a boho traveller vibe, with embroidery on blouses, trimming on jeans and panels on summery outerwear to create a smarter, more sophisticated update to the look. Cross stitching, embossing, laser cutting, embroidery and intricate beading were all key (Aaiko, pictured).

Tribal geometrics

The biggest print and pattern direction for spring 14 also played into the global traveller trend, with tribal, Aztec and Navajo-inspired geometrics covering everything from dresses, panels on tops and linings inside outerwear.

This season saw these worn and aged, as if chipped and peeled over time.

u

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 102

DIRECTIONS I WomensWear spring 14

PASSé ComPoSé

SitA murt

The spring 14 offering from French brand Passé Composé blends different fabrics and textures.

Draped jersey and soft silk finishes are teamed with key crochet detailing to achieve the “comfort with class” inspiration for the collection. Drawing on vintage styles, Parisian fashion designer Maud Lejeune adds a modern touch to the range with Aztec prints, Peter Pan collars and tactile detailing.

Among the 45-piece range are great Aztec-style printed kaftans, crochet panelled dresses and drawstring jersey shorts. Wholesale prices range from €20 to €65 (£17 to £55).

Contact: 00 33 1 83 39 88 48 www.passecomposeparis.com

Spanish brand Sita Murt has introduced blended silk and jersey knits for spring 14 and upped the quality of its yarns. The 140-piece collection uses dip-dyed wool for the first time in a range of on-trend washed-out neon shades. The collection also includes custommade geometric prints and Aztec-inspired woven jackets.

Wholesale prices range from €24 to €70 (£20 to £60).

Contact: 00 34 93 80 37 411 www.sitamurt.com

ON THE RADAR — Designed by Jaewoo Kim Korean brand Designed by Jaewoo Kim focuses on structure for spring 14. Moving away from the label’s feminine styles, this season’s 42-piece range takes inspiration from sci-fi movies and includes clean lines, angular lapels and bold colour blocking on monochrome collarless jackets and tailored dresses.

Wholesale prices range from €80 to €200 (£69 to £172).

Contact 00 82 10 44 04 78 06 www.designedbyjaewookim.com

Sweewe With the trend for statement jumpers showing no signs of slowing, Parisian short-order label Sweewe could be the go-to brand for fashion-forward but commercial designs. Embroidery, contrasting textures and patterns and 3D jacquards all put a twist on simple staples. The brand also releases new pieces throughout the year, allowing it to stay on top of emerging trends.

Contact: 00 33 1 71 60 86 74 www.sweewe.com

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CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here _ Aimee Cordery Debenhams’ lingerie design manager talks about a career built on passion, creativity and experience

_104 Drapers // JULY JULY20 202013 2013 _ PB Drapers

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What does your diary look like today? We are currently working with London College of Fashion and have set the students a project to design for the maternity section at Debenhams, so I’ll be meeting with them and giving feedback. Then I have a meeting with Ted Baker to discuss one of our spring 14 lingerie ranges.

We will go over all the lingerie and sleep garments and make any amendments and check the Ted Baker team is happy. After that I’m off to a trend forecasting company to look at autumn 14 trend books.

What task, meeting or event are you most looking forward to today? I’m looking forward to all of them. What I love about my job is the diversity from day to day. It’s great working with passionate students and I love developing products for our Designers at Debenhams range.

What task do you wish you could postpone? I wouldn’t postpone anything, but because we work a year in advance in the lingerie division at Debenhams it feels too soon to be thinking about autumn 14.

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➝ How did you get to where

you are today? Through lots of hard work, dedication and a true love for lingerie. I also never stop asking questions, because you can never stop learning.

What has been your career highlight? I don’t think you ever forget the first time you see a product you have developed from an idea through to a sketch and then into store. I nearly cried when I saw my first set of lingerie in store. I was so proud.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I don’t regret anything; if I did it wouldn’t have made me the designer I am today.

You always learn valuable lessons from experiences, whether they’re negative or positive.

Who is your mentor? In the lingerie industry so many people have given me fantastic support and advice, from great line managers such as Sian Thomas who always helped me to develop and realise my passion, through to inspirational heads of design such as Soozie Jenkinson, Lisa-Marie Peacock and my current head of

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CV 2013 Lingerie design manager, Debenhams 2011 Senior lingerie designer, Debenhams 2007 Lingerie/swimwear designer, Arcadia/Evans 2004 Assistant lingerie designer, Marks & Spencer 2003 Design room assistant, Warehouse

design Sharon Webb, who challenged and inspired me. On a personal level, my parents have always been extremely supportive.

My husband is also great. We are both creative and I love it when we bounce ideas off each other.

What’s the best piece of advice they’ve given you? My mum always said imagination is more important than knowledge,

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as you can learn knowledge, and I suppose that’s what I live by.

How do you see your career progressing? I have a passion for lingerie so will always want to work in the industry. I really enjoy working in the commercial side of lingerie at Debenhams so I’d like to continue my career here.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Get as much work experience as possible. I got a six-month work placement with Marks & Spencer lingerie and it was invaluable. When I left I kept in contact and ended up getting my first lingerie job there as assistant lingerie designer.

Salaries for this position range from £55,000 to £70,000 plus benefits (estimate by Henry Fox Recruitment)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

We sell more than three dresses every minute and have five million customers. And big name brands?

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Shop Direct is one of the UK’s leading online retailers.

Our digital department stores include Very.co.uk, Littlewoods and isme and we have a growing number of own-brand fashion labels, from Definitions and Love Label to Savoir, South and Ladybird.

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We’re the biggest fashion retailer you’ve probably never heard of.

And we’d love to hear from you.

_ 106 JULY 20 2013

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Sunspel Final logotype MASTER

Senior Merchandiser Sunspel is a fast growing luxury heritage fashion brand with a focus on quality and fabric which sells worldwide in over 100 high-end fashion stores including; Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and Mr. Porter.

We are a privately owned brand manufacturing & outsourcing high quality men’s & ladies clothing, with our goods selling into wholesale, retail & on line for both UK & export markets and more importantly our own 3 stores in London.

Do you need to talk about anything?

We are looking for a Senior Merchandiser to work closely with the Production and Design Teams; you will work to provide daily figure analysis, forecasting plans and take part in range planning. You will also be involved in the buying for own stores and implementation of the promotional activity and markdown proposals working alongside the Production and the Marketing teams.

You will also be required to create the in house pricing for all stores and work on stock allocation and replenishment.

You will have at least 5 years experience in merchandising and be at a Senior level. You must be able to present forecasting and weekly buying information to Directors and colleagues in a concise and efficient manner whilst highlighting any potential problems that may arise.

Sunspel logotype Phase 3

12/03/2013

Nottingham based Excellent salary For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.

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YET TO BE DISCOVERED ?

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The New Look ook The fastest

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To celebrate the 125 year anniversary of Drapers, Drapersjobs.com has got a chic new look making the search for your perfect fashion job even more enjoyable.

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Drapersjobs.com is also the perfect place to make your next fashion industry hire Call +44 (0)20 3033 2991 or +44 (0)20 3033 2985 Email Rebecca.Tonkinson@EMAP.com and Peter.Bruce-Smythe@EMAP.com

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com

ALTERATIONS WORKROOM MANAGER LONDON – £Competitive We carry out alterations to over 45,000 garments per year, and will alter anything from a pair of jeans, to a £35,000 corseted, beaded gown, to garments from the pet department! The department is very fast paced with high expectations from the shop floor and customers alike; however it is a totally unique area and gives the team the diversity of working on garments from every area of the business. The role will see you managing a team of highly skilled tailors and fitters who have a wealth of knowledge.

The team carry out alterations as requested across ladieswear, menswear and children’s garments. You will be comfortable in a busy, fast paced environment and have excellent communication skills.

JUNIOR ANALYST – PLANNING & TRADING LONDON – Competitive Salary and Benefits Package If you’re passionate about retail, we’ll make sure you and your career are well looked after. House of Fraser is one of the best known names on the high street and right now, we’re looking for people who think like we do. People who live and breathe retail; people who love being surrounded by prestigious brands and people who are committed to making House of Fraser the Premium department store of choice – there’s never been a better time to join us An exciting opportunity has arisen for a Junior Analyst to join our Planning & Trading team within our Baker Street store support centre. This is a key role that provides insight analysis and management information to the Senior Management team. The other key aspect to the job role is to maintain, update and forecast terminal stock performance. This is a great developmental role for an Assistant Merchandiser to gain a broader understanding of how a retail business is run.

CONCESSION MANAGER LONDON – £Negotiable based on experience We are a leading luxury fine jewellery brand with fantastic opportunity for a Concession Manager to join our growing team. As the Concession Manager, you will be expected support the concession based in Selfridges. You will be able to successfully combine sales administration and customer service in order to support client accounts, addressing any concerns and finding creative resolutions to problems. We are looking for an enthusiastic, hardworking and detail-oriented individual, with strong organisational and administration skills.

COMMERCIAL TEAM ADMINISTRATOR LONDON – £Negotiable based on experience We are a leading luxury fine jewellery brand with fantastic opportunity for a Commercial Team Administrator to join our growing team. As the Commercial Team administrator, you will be expected support the UK and International Sales teams by running and maximizing the efficiency of all back of house processes. You will be able to successfully combine sales administration and customer service in order to support client accounts, addressing any concerns and finding creative resolutions to problems. We are looking for an enthusiastic, hard-working and detail-oriented individual, with strong organizational and administration skills.

SENIOR BUYER- OWN LABEL LONDON – Competitive THE OUTNET.COM is the most fashionable fashion outlet. Since its launch in April 2009 by the people behind the award-winning website NET-A-PORTER, THE OUTNET.COM has quickly established itself as the chic, go-to destination for the global, style-conscious shopper looking for the best designer brands at a great discount price. An exciting opportunity for an experienced, fashionable ambitious Senior Buyer to join THE OUTNET and develop our private label. Reporting to Private Label Manager, you would be part of a small, hardworking team and play an integral part in the range development, supplier management and overall success of our private label for THE OUTNET. You would work under the guidance from the Buying, Merchandising & Design teams.

ASSISTANT BUYER PRIVATE LABEL – THE OUTNET. COM LONDON – Competitive THE OUTNET.COM is the most fashionable fashion outlet. Since its launch in April 2009 by the people behind the award-winning website NET-A-PORTER, THE OUTNET.COM has quickly established itself as the chic, go-to destination for the global, style-conscious shopper looking for the best designer brands at a great discount price. A challenging and exciting opportunity for an Assistant Buyer to join THE OUTNET and help build the newly established private label. This role presents you with the opportunity to join the venture at the early stages and as such influence how the final offer will look from the outset.

ASSISTANT GARMENT & PRODUCT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON – Competitive salary & attractive benefits

Looking for your next step as an Assistant Technologist and enjoy working with beautiful product? A great opportunity has arisen within our Monsoon Childrens Technical Services team for an Assistant Garment & Product Technologist.

Reporting to our Senior Technologist, you will be responsible for the development of a variety of Childrens’ accessories products and clothing. You will be working across childrens beachwear, nightwear and multi-accessories. The wide breadth of product is what makes our role interesting and diverse! You will need to have great interpersonal and communication skills, an eye for detail and will appreciate working on beautiful product. If you are an experienced Technical Assistant from a multi-accessories or clothing background with an interest in childrenswear, looking for your next step and have had some hands-on experience from a technical industrial placement, then we would love to hear

from you!

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

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JULY 20 2013

FASHION & COSTUME LECTURER AMERSHAM – £20,400 - £34,383 pa, pro-rata Here at Amersham and Wycombe College, we aim to help every student achieve wonders – in their studies and in their lives. If you can help us reach that goal, this is your opportunity to deliver an outstanding learning experience as you teach across a range of courses including Fashion, Costume and Textiles. Relevant teaching experience is essential, along with strong organisational skills. You should also be an enthusiastic and inspiring communicator who can support every student to succeed. The ability to contribute to the development of this expanding curriculum area is important too.

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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior PRODUCTION PATTERN CUTTER CAMDEN – Competitive Salary Established Womenswear Company supplying to major High Street retailers,seeks an experienced Gerber trained production pattern cutter to join them in their beautiful new offices in Camden. You will work closely with the production team and designer, understand the critical path and work to tight deadlines. You will be responsible for fit alterations, spec sheets and ensuring all garments are made to customer requirements and standards.

Must be able to work under pressure, use initiative to solve problems and be an integral part of our dynamic team.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645423’

FOOTWEAR BUYER HEYWOOD, LANCASHIRE – HIGHLY COMPETITIVE An opportunity has become available for a Buyer to play a key role in our expanding and developing Buying Department. Working within the Ladies and Children’s Footwear department the successful candidate will maximise sales and profit through the development of product ranges. You will: Possess excellent commercial awareness and ability to drive profit. Demonstrate strong supplier relationship skills. Have a creative yet calm approach to problem solving. Display excellent interpersonal and presentation skills. Product range and planning. Would suit a Buyer or Assistant Buyer working within another fashion retailer. Must be commercially aware of market trends.

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644573’ DENIM ACCOUNT MANAGER LONDON – Competitive salary Exciting opportunity for a Womens Denim Account Manager with enthusiasm to join growing team with established supplier to the high street. You will be responsible for managing and developing existing accounts and be able to identify opportunities in opening new customer accounts. The ideal candidate will be strong in development and have an eye for trends. You will attend regular customer meetings and present developments and ranges and manage sales. This position will suit a confident and passionate individual with drive and strong denim experience.

GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON – Competitive salary This award winning designer, manufacturer and distributor of corporate clothing, based in West London, are looking for an experienced Garment Technologist/ to join this young dynamic team. Established in 1981 this dynamic design agency produce corporate clothing for a wide range of well-known companies across most areas of industry. They are well known in the industry for exciting designs, high quality manufacture and exceptional after sales service. Over the years the company has grown from strength to strength established a good customer base and reputation within the market for design and quality.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645266’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643069’

LECTRA MODARIS CAD OPERATORS FREELANCE AND PERMANENT GLOUCESTER – £20,000 - £30,000 p.a. depending on experience (pro rata for freelance) A long-established leading British heritage brand is looking for a CAD Operator to create and adapt CAD patterns from existing blocks and design specifications using the Lectra Modaris system. With solid experience of pattern-cutting using the Lectra Modaris CAD systems, you are confident at creating and adapting patterns digitally to customer and business requirements. Ideally you will have a background of at least three years’ experience digitising patterns using the Lectra Modaris system. Graduates with Lectra Modaris internship experience or training will be considered. Salary commensurate with experience + package for permanent.

SOURCING MANAGER - RAW MATERIALS LONDON – £ Excellent competitive salary & benefits package Luxury brand seeks two experienced Sourcing Manager’s for opportunities within their global operations. You will be responsible for raw material placement and management, as well as the management and delivery of production, in line with the critical path calendar, delivery and margin goals of the division. Manage final price negotiations and margin, providing seasonal price analysis across vendors and product categories, monitor on-time deliveries from vendors, troubleshooting with team & business partners as necessary and assess vendor performance each season & present post-season analysis.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645272’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645351’

MERCHANDISER / PRODUCT DEVELOPER – CHINESE SPEAKING LONDON – Competitive salary Our client is a leading UK supplier of components and trims with offices in London and Hong Kong. They have a fantastic opportunity for a Chinese speaking Merchandiser to join their established business. The role will involve product development and merchandising of soft trims ad accessories. Working closely with the Sales and Design teams, liaising with customers and suppliers in the UK and Far East. You must speak fluent Mandarin, have a ‘can do’ attitude and be organised with the ability to multi task.

TECHNICAL MANAGER - SOCKS LONDON – Competitive salary A brand new exciting opportunity has arisen for a Technical Manager to join a global supplier of intimate apparel with a wide client base in both private label and brands. You will provide a front facing service to the customer on both technical development and quality issues.

Technical development and research.

Involvement in strategic technical projects, raw material sourcing. Oversee RTM analysis and the UK Quality Audits. You must have sock/hosiery experience as well as previous experience of dealing with major UK high street retailers.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645358’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645251’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644050’ SALES EXECUTIVE / ACCOUNT MANAGER LEEDS, WEST YORKSHIRE – Competitive based on experience + commission Smith & Canova and Claudia Canova are a well-established Supplier of Handbags & Fashion Accessories. Supplying to some of the UK’s leading independent fashion retailers, department stores and fashion chains. Due to our continued success we require an experienced Sales Executive/Account Manager to join the team in Leeds. You will be selling a range of Ladies and Gents Fashion Bags and Accessories across both our main brands: Smith & Canova and Claudia Canova as well as developing bespoke collections for made to order customers. You will be required to develop new business across new prospects and existing accounts, whilst providing unrivalled account management for existing customers.

INTERNATIONAL WHOLESALE SALES MANAGER LONDON, OLD STREET EC1V – Competitive basic+ bonus SWEAR is seeking an exceptional International Sales Manager with wholesale focus to develop and manage UK and International accounts. Role description includes but is not limited to: Reporting directly to the General Manager, the key focus of this role is the wholesale management, development and distribution planning for SWEAR footwear. Responsible for managing wholesale budgets, and covering UK and International markets: Europe, US and Asia. Organizing and conducting sales campaigns in London, Paris, New York, Milan, Berlin, Copenhagen, Dusseldorf. Responsible for managing existing account base, as well as identifying and executing new business opportunities.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643065’

EXPERIENCED SALES ADMINISTRATOR LONDON – £Attractive Experienced sales administrator required for rapidly expanding, busy west end manufacturer. Producing young fast fashion ladies styles for the premier UK high street brands. You must be able to work to deadlines, be organised and a good communicator as you will be working directly with the buying offices negotiating prices and managing the critical path.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645348’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643019’ SENIOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON – Salary based on experience Relish clothing is a fun and enthusiastic environment to work in – a company that has grown significantly since first established in 2011, they have just recently moved into new offices on the basis of expanding and growing the team.

THE ROLE: Work strictly against Critical Path and make sure all CP is achieved by the end of the week. Be fully responsible for dedicated account and being 1st contact person. Measure and check samples from sample room and factories against Customer Specification. Check samples for quality and any Technical issues to make sure they are to customer’s standards.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645269’

FAR EAST GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST HONG KONG – Negotiable. Housing allowance and flight.

Rubie’s U.K., the World’s Leading Costume Company requires a proactive, self-motivated garment technologist to join our expanding Far East team. Whist experience is an advantage, we are interested to talk to newly qualified ambitious technologists who are keen to develop an overseas career. You will be joining at an exciting time in the development of our Far East technical overseas team and will play an important part in achieving the high quality standards we require. Whilst the position is based in the Rubie’s Hong Kong Office, you will be required to travel extensively throughout southern and northern China working closely with the Rubies Shenzhen sample room and our various costume and accessory factories.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643146’

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WOMENSWEAR GRAPHIC AND JERSEY DESIGNER LEEDS, WEST YORKSHIRE – Competitive based on experience + commission Smith & Canova and Claudia Canova are a well-established Supplier of Handbags & Fashion Accessories. Supplying to some of the UK’s leading independent fashion retailers, department stores and fashion chains. Due to our continued success we require an experienced Sales Executive/Account Manager to join the team in Leeds. You will be selling a range of Ladies and Gents Fashion Bags and Accessories across both our main brands: Smith & Canova and Claudia Canova as well as developing bespoke collections for made to order customers. You will be required to develop new business across new prospects and existing accounts, whilst providing unrivalled account management for existing customers.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644370’

JULY 20 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643089’

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – Competitive plus benefits At White Stuff we believe by being different, and making a difference, we’ll make the world a little happier. We put ‘happyness in every stitch’ of what we do and each of our shops supports one of its local charities through the White Stuff Foundation. This is a great opportunity for someone to join the Merchandising Team as a Junior Merchandiser. Reporting to the Senior Merchandiser, you’ll have responsibility for managing the range planning process and for initiating, forecasting and maintenance of WSSI. You’ll pro-actively manage stock coming into the business, participate in space planning and monitor the stock positions and trading performance of all options.

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FIELD BASED TERRITORY SALES MANAGER UK NORTH – Competitive based on experience + Commission As part of our plans for expansion, a fantastic opportunity has arisen for a dynamic, driven and enthusiastic customer focused territory Sales Manager to cover the North of the UK market. The ideal candidate will have a proven track record of succeeding in a target driven environment and have the confident personality a successful leading young fashion company is looking for. We will consider candidates from anywhere in the UK provided you are willing to travel to customers in the territory and attend regular meetings at our Head office in London.

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

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“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

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t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

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Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

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grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

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JULY 20 2013

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

Drapers /

SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

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Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

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Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

Drapers /

JULY 20 2013

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Fabric importers established in 1958

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TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

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To MESSRS

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

LININGS

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

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Notice board AUTHORISED

THE GRADING BUREAU

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

WANTED

Established 1973 Established 1973

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caLL noW for immEdiatE action

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DATAGR AF LTD

AGENT

With showroom based and many years’ experience in the clothing industry.

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Contact 07770838064

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GRADING

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Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery.

Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

JULY 20 2013

Drapers /

Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

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and Preppi.

DIRECTIONS I THIS FASHION LIFE

Always Innovative, Forever Glamorous

‘We still have so much potential within the womenswear genre that we want to explore’ ➝

August’s spring 14 edition will be your 12th season showing on the Copenhagen Fashion Week catwalk – how has the week changed over the years? It’s become more professional and international. We love the fact that increasing numbers of buyers and press from all over the world see its relevance. We believe Copenhagen Fashion Week is moving in a good direction.

How important do you think the Copenhagen catwalk and trade shows Gallery [where the brand exhibits], Vision and CIFF are to international buyers? You really do get a lot of value for your money when buying Scandinavian brands, and Copenhagen Fashion Week is a kind of concentration of Scandinavian fashion, showing the best of what our region has to offer both in terms of brands and new design talent.

What are the themes for your spring 14 collection? Our big inspiration is the Danish modernist painter Vilhelm Lundstrøm. His colour palette [soft oranges, blues and pinks] is the focus point for our collection – but we’ve also been very inspired by his geometric approach to the human body.

Any plans for new categories? Yes. Starting from our autumn 14 collection, which we are currently working on, we’ll introduce a small collection of bags and purses.

In 2009 Bruuns Bazaar became your majority shareholder – what impact did this have on your brand? One of the most important things is a board of extremely competent people with many years of different and relevant experience from this industry.

We get great input from both our new board and from the management of Bruuns Bazaar.

Further, we share the same platform for finance, logistics, stock and customer services – hence we can now rely on these things running smoothly without us even doing anything.

Do you have any plans to go into menswear? No. We still have so much potential within the womenswear genre that we want to explore. We can get so much better at doing women’s fashion – and we want to elaborate our women’s universe with shoes, bags, eyewear, swimwear – you name it…

Drapers / JULY 20 2013 _ 116

➝

➝

Helle Hestehave

The co-founder of Danish womenswear label Baum und Pferdgarten tells IAN WRIGHT about her inspirations and move into accessories

What do you think it is about Scandinavian design that makes it so popular all over the world? We have a distinct and remarkable design heritage in Scandinavia with a very functional approach and a tradition for excellent craftsmanship. As a Scandinavian designer you carry this tradition with you and build on it.

As a result most Scandinavian designers deliver a good and genuine product at a reasonable price.

UK Customer Services T: 0141 204 0699 E: fashion@premierfashions.co.uk franklyman.com

➝ ➝

➝

For an extended version of this interview, visit www.drapersonline.com/news/ this-fashion-life

......Sitting with designer jeans......Standing alone on price

C o n t a c t : C h r i s t o p h e r F o s t e r- O r r, F. O . S . F a s h i o n M a r k e t i n g , M o r l e y H o u s e , 3 2 0 R e g e n t S t r e e t , L o n d o n W 1 B 3 B F

t:020 7636 7111

e:mac@fosfashion.co.uk