Drapers 220613 combined

JUNE 22 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com

Roksanda

IlIncIc

The designer on her resort collection and the relentless pursuit of the new

BERLIN PREVIEW shows’ MUsT-VIsIT BRANDs PAYPAL ETAIL AWARDS

All the action in our winners’ gallery / P18

ECOMM The most

SHOPWATCH Has successful social River Island raised media campaigns / P26 its game? / P24

THE WEEK Drapers COVER IMAGE: TOM CAMPBELL

The buying season gets off to a flying start

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson

Welcome to the latest edition of Drapers, in the week that the first of this season’s big events launched the menswear season, with London Collections: Men followed by Pitti Uomo in Florence. We’ve been covering the highlights of both live on our website, Drapersonline.com, but will be bringing you the fashion team’s edit in our next issue (our website is free to access for subscribers – just log in using your subscriber number).

But back to this week and inside this issue we’ve given you a handy preview of the Berlin trade shows taking place this coming week, including of course Bread & Butter (p34), to ensure you make the most of your time in the German capital. We are also celebrating the success of our winners at last week’s PayPal Etail Awards with a selection of images from the evening at Old Billingsgate in London (p18).

And you will of course have noticed from our front cover that we were granted exclusive access to designer of the moment Roksanda Ilincic, who told our fashion director Ian Wright about her plans to grow her label (p20).

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 22.06.13 REGULARS

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705.

Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

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2_ News Our edit of the week’s news, including young shoppers cutting spend and the sale of Coggles 11_ Opinion Comment from Paul McManus of brand communication agency Crave and Richard Harvey of indie The Good Earth Company 14_ Fashion Index Trading info from the UK and overseas, plus kidswear sales in the Indie Index 26_ Ecomm We ask four industry experts which they think have been the most successful social media campaigns 44_ Careers Climbing the ladder with Forever Unique’s Dominique Taylor

34

56_ This Fashion Life Nicky Santomauro, managing director of Lavenham, is looking overseas for growth FEATURES

20_ Close-Up Womenswear designer Roksanda Ilincic is hot property thanks to her elegant aesthetic and eye for detail

24

24_ Shopwatch We find out whether bigger is better when it comes to River Island’s Marble Arch store DIRECTIONS

29_ This Week’s Hero Brutus hopes to reclaim past glories with its relaunched jeans range 30_ The Buzz Our weekly round-up of

hot trends and brands, including crop tops and Realm & Empire 32_ Style Council Our panel of kidswear retailers and brands on how the kidswear market is performing 34_ Berlin Preview Get set for the Berlin trade shows with our handy guide to the must-see brands

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 1

_Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief

News

Cash-strapped young shoppers shun fashion / Trading /

The under-35s are increasingly cutting back on fashion spend as living costs eat into disposable income

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 2

By Catherine Neilan

The fashion industry is haemorrhaging shoppers under the age of 35, with consumers leaving the market as rising household prices eat into income.

There were almost 400,000 fewer shoppers of clothing, footwear and accessories in this age range over the 24 weeks to May 12 compared with the same time last year, figures from consumer analyst Kantar Worldpanel have revealed.

Until now the trend had only been found in consumers aged 25 and under, but in the last three months the generation above has joined them in their reticence to spend.

These two age ranges accounted for 34% of all fashion purchases in the period, as under-25 spend declined 6%, with the 25 to 34 bracket dropping 2.4%.

Those aged 35 to 44 have also cut spend, but by a less marked 0.9%.

Menswear has seen the biggest drop in spend by the under-35s, down 8.6%,

34 %

Proportion of overall fashion purchases made by the under-35s market

while womenswear declined 1.7%.

Kidswear fell 4.2%.

For those aged 45 and over, menswear spend rose 7%, while womenswear and kidswear purchases each rose 4%.

Drapers has previously reported the decline in branded men’s young fashion, but these latest figures suggest the problem is more widespread.

Kantar client executive Charlotte Wilks said: “[Shoppers] are not only cutting back on the more expensive, branded end of the market but also on own-label clothing.

“Branded accounts for 23% of spend by those aged under 45, where sales have declined by 4%. Own label accounts for the remaining 76% and has experienced declines of 3%. In contrast, the 45-and-over market has grown both own label and branded by 5%.”

Wilks said shoppers were “continuing

Tough customers: shoppers aged 25 to 34 are looking for higher quality from retailers such as Zara (pictured)

to engage with online”, which was up 9% compared with a 6% decline for in-store sales. But with the high street still accounting for 79% of fashion purchases, this was not enough to cushion the fall. There was no evidence of the declines easing, she added.

Verdict Retail analyst Honor Westnedge said she had noted a similar trend, as the rising cost of living was driving 25 to 34-year-olds to be more selective and “really look for quality”.

“That shopper is looking to retailers like Zara to justify the price points. This customer is getting more demanding and if they don’t get it right, they risk the customer trading up to the likes of Reiss, Ted Baker and Whistles,” she said.

Quality not quantity – are we seeing a sea change in shopping habits? www.drapersonline.com/blogs

/ Multiples /

Team changes continue as Fresh Channel restructures

blogs

£84.8m

5%

gothic blooms: oasis autumn 13 collection

Other changes include Steve Ridehalgh, previously international director for Aurora, who has been made international director for Fresh Channel.

Karen Millen’s former chief financial officer Sanam Soufipour has now moved over to Oasis and Warehouse.

Group finance boss Richard Glanville, chairman Derek Lovelock, chief executive Mike Shearwood and group omnichannel director Ish Patel are in the process of stepping back from the group.

Julia Durbin, Aurora’s director of people and organisation development, is expected to leave at the end of the year.

US denim duty rise ‘will hit margins’ The HMRC note said: “Unfortunately, although the Byrd Amendment has been repealed [in 2006], the illegal subsidies to US business still continue.

“As such, the EU intends to increase the rate of retaliatory duty with effect from May 1, 2013.”

But one distributor said UK businesses and consumers would suffer. “Everybody will be affected,” she told Drapers.

“Manufacturers will take a hit because they have to give a bigger discount; it will eat into distributors’ margins so they will have to increase prices to retailers, and the customer will be affected because of the inflated prices.”

drop in like-for-like sales at Jd SportS’ faShion faSciaS Bank and ScottS

550 sq ft

Size of kaNdee footwear’S firSt Standalone Store in SinGapore

395 SainSBury’S StoreS receivinG the New tu BraNdiNg in SeptemBer

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Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 3

GroSS profit at House of fraser aS of april 27

/ International /

Designers, distributors and stockists of denim products from the US face a significant hit to margins after the European Union raised import duties.

From May 1, all denim products imported to the UK and Europe from the US have been subject to a 38% duty – up from 12% previously.

According to a notice sent out by HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC), denim products have been added to a list of goods that attract higher custom duties “in retaliation” to a 13-year-old piece of US legislation called the Byrd Amendment, which upped duties on certain imports to the country.

News in Numbers

www.drapersonline.com/

By Catherine Neilan

Further changes have been made to the team at Oasis and Warehouse owner Fresh Channel, as it restructures from the former Aurora Fashions business.

Hash Ladha, previously deputy managing director of Oasis, has been promoted to chief operating officer at the womenswear chain.

Ladha’s new role will see him take on responsibility for all channels – retail, digital and wholesale – as well as brand marketing and visual merchandising.

He will continue to report into Liz Evans, who was made chief executive of Oasis and Warehouse when the restructure was announced in March.

Once complete it will see womenswear chain Coast become a distinct legal entity, ahead of an expected sale.

At Warehouse, Paula Stewart, who was promoted to brand director last year, will take on further responsibilities working across all design, buying, marketing and visual merchandising. Evans has picked up the remaining operational duties.

Evans told Drapers: “The whole mantra around our restructure has been delayering, so it made no sense to replace Meg [Lustman, former managing director of Warehouse] and I with another two MDs because we’d only be recreating what we had before.”

reality check dressing big brother – a very big mistake

/

News

Independents /

Hut buyout raises doubts over future of Coggles name

Drapers / JUNe 22 2013 _ 4

By Victoria Gallagher

The Hut Group’s acquisition of Coggles has met with mixed responses from the industry, with some concerned that the York premium indie’s name will not live on.

Last week the etailer, which owns several webites including Drapers Footwear & Accessories Award winner MyBag.com, bought Coggles out of administration.

The Hut Group acquired Coggles’ assets including stock and intellectual property such as the brand name and the company’s domain name.

However, as a result of the deal the indie’s two remaining stores have been shuttered and all staff made redundant.

On announcing the deal Andy Clay, joint administrator at Begbies Traynor, said: “Our primary duty is to bring about the optimum return for creditors and

/

the offer from The Hut Group was an extremely good deal.

“Unfortunately, most of the interest we received was from potential purchasers wanting to acquire the online side of Coggles’ business, which represented the bulk of turnover, rather than for its retail outlets. This means the stores in York have closed and the remaining staff have been made redundant.”

‘The stores in York have been closed and the remaining staff made redundant’ Andy Clay, joint administrator, Begbies Traynor

Clay added: “While it is sad to see Coggles disappearing from the high street for the time being, and the loss of employment for the remaining staff, it is positive that the business will continue as part of a large and successful specialist online retail group.”

Some industry figures expressed relief at the sale, with the manager of one brand formerly stocked at Coggles saying it was “great news” for the business.

But others expressed concern about the future of Coggles, particularly over the mixing of business models. One brand owner said: “It’s very rare for a value-end organisation to make a premium product outlet work, especially when it’s a bricks-and-mortar operation.

“Both firms are used to different business models and work structures.

Value-end vendors buy big, buy cheap and sell cheap. They normally don’t have the back-end organisational structure to cope with the mindset or work style of a premium indie,” the source said.

One young fashion agent said the deal paved the way for The Hut Group to launch its own premium site, called Mylabel.com. Currently the URL redirects to The Hut Group’s site.

The source said: “It would make sense for The Hut Group to get the Coggles customer database as it would be a great fit for its new premium apparel venture.”

No one from The Hut Group was available for comment.

Shut: the indie’s remaining two stores have closed

Young fashion /

SuperGroup tests Chinese market via website

By Jill Geoghegan

Young fashion retailer SuperGroup will launch a Chinese website in the next 12 months as it ramps up its international expansion plans.

SuperGroup, which owns the Superdry brand, said it would use the site “to test the waters” with Chinese consumers.

Investor relations officer Tony Newbould said SuperGroup was “looking to make its mark” in Asia and the website launch was “an exciting opportunity to see if it will work”.

However, Newbould noted that Superdry’s logo, which includes Japanese characters, may not translate well in the Chinese market. He said: “We have a strong Japanese style to our clothing and our graphics may not work in all Asian

Language barrier: brand is unsure how Chinese customers will respond to its Japanese styling

markets. We need to trial the product in order to understand the customer better.”

Newbould said SuperGroup already operates 17 franchises and 49 concessions in Asia outside of China.

The China move follows the appointment of Hans Schmitt as managing director of international and wholesale at SuperGroup on May 8.

Schmitt has effectively replaced former international director and co-founder Theo Karpathios, who quit last August.

Newbould said: “After Theo left we had the opportunity to find someone to drive forward the international and wholesale strategy. Hans fulfils that.”

History could determine Superdry’s future in China, says Catherine Neilan www.drapersonline.com/blogs

Stores /

Hugo Boss reviews safety after death

Picture caption style three lines deep please Picture caption style three lines

Hugo Boss has increased safety checks throughout its store portfolio following the death of a four-year-old child at its Bicester Village store.

A spokesman for the womenswear and menswear retailer said its stores had “fittings safety checked as a matter of course”, but added: “It is only natural that since this tragic accident, further safety checks have been carried out.”

The boy, named this week as Austen Harrison, was hit by a falling mirror on June 4 and treated at John Radcliffe Hospital, Oxford, but died four days later.

Thames Valley Police are continuing their investigation and expect an inquest to be announced following the coroner’s report, which is due out soon.

The Bicester Village store reopened last Saturday (June 15). Hugo Boss has said it will continue to assist investigators.

Both businesses released statements, with Hugo Boss saying everyone was “devastated by this tragic accident”.

It added: “We would like to extend our deepest condolences and sympathies to his family. All of our thoughts are with them at this time.”

Bicester Village said its team was “deeply saddened”.

Lulu Guinness has collaborated with digital artist Joseph Steele on a limited-edition range of clutch bags. Available from next month, each of the 180 bags will be numbered and signed by Guinness and Steele, and retail at £295.

ETAIL CHAMPIONS SEE OUR GALLERY OF WINNERS FROM THIS YEAR’S PAYPAL ETAIL AWARDS p18

Drapers / JUNe 22 2013 _ 5

/

News

/ Multiples /

action stations H&M MuST acT now To RecoveR fRoM ITS cuRRenT SLuMP – oTHeRwISe IT couLd be Too LaTe www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

Get into the spirit: an autumn 13 coat

/ Womenswear /

Drapers / JunE 22 2013 _ 6

Ghost ups offer and looks overseas Womenswear retailer Ghost is expanding its collection for autumn 13 with a range of new fabrics and styles.

The contemporary retailer has called the collection its “most diverse yet”, with more than 50% of it created using new materials. The collection retains Ghost’s signature shrink-dye crêpe and satin, but this will only make up 40% of the offer.

The autumn 13 range will be more trend led and will feature denim, knitwear and leather for the first time. new styles will include coloured jeans, leather jackets and draped woollen cardigans.

Ghost owner Touker Suleyman said: “Before this collection Ghost was a small-time hobby for me. now it’s time to expand the brand and take it international.”

Suleyman said the new look would appeal to a much wider audience than previously, with the inclusion of younger, more fashion-forward pieces.

The company has four standalone stores and is stocked in John Lewis.

However, Suleyman said he planned to increase the number of standalone Ghost stores in the next year to around 10, and will also target international department stores as potential stockists prior to opening standalone stores abroad.

‘Before this collection Ghost was a hobby – it’s time to take it international’ Touker Suleyman, owner, Ghost

Poor sales at H&M see profits fall 10% Swedish fast-fashion group H&M recorded a 10.8% decline in profits to SEK4.66bn (£464m) in the three months to May 31, as a result of “unsatisfactory” sales.

Revenues for the second quarter dipped 0.1% to SEK31.64bn (£3.1bn), although sales in local currencies increased by 5%. Like-for-likes decreased by 4%.

The drops were widely anticipated by analysts, with Drapers last week reporting that pressure was building on the chain as a result of increased competition from the likes of etailer Asos and value chain Primark.

H&M said the disparity between sales in local currencies and reported sales was due to the negative impact of the stronger Swedish krona against most countries’ currencies.

But the business also recognised that sales had underperformed globally.

Karl-Johan Persson, H&M chief executive, said: “Overall sales were not satisfactory mainly due to the continued challenging situation for the fashion retail industry as well as unfavourable weather in March and a couple of weeks into April in many of our big markets.”

The period was one of “intense activity” for international expansion at the retailer, with almost 100 new store openings, including its first South American outlet in Santiago, Chile.

Tough climate: bad weather slowed sales

/ Barometer /

Earnings at etailer The Hut Group more than doubled during 2012 as it invested for further growth. EBITDA grew from £4.4m to £10.1m, representing a 130% rise

Discount chain The Original Factory Shop posted a surge in profits over the past year.

In the year to March 31, sales rose 10.4% as like-for-likes grew 3.7%

John Lewis Partnership chairman Charlie Mayfield was awarded a knighthood in the Queen’s Birthday Honours list. Sarah Curran, My-Wardrobe.com founder, received an MBE and London Collections: Men founder Dylan Jones was awarded an OBE

THRILLS

SPILLS

Sales at Laura Ashley dipped in the first 18 weeks of its financial year as fashion underperformed.

Total sales in the 18 weeks to June 1 fell 0.6%, as did like-for-likes

All divisions were down in sales at John Lewis last week, with fashion the strongest performer of the three arms, down 0.9%

RETAIL vETERAn BILL GRIMSEy

QuEEn Of SHOPS MARy PORTAS

SAvIOuR Of THE HIGH STREET?

/ Footwear /

Jane shilton takeover called off after ‘heated’ talks with shoon Question marks have been raised over the future of women’s footwear and handbag brand Jane Shilton after a takeover bid by footwear retailer Shoon fell through at the 11th hour.

The deal, backed by retail restructuring firm GA Europe and family-run company Shoon, would have resulted in the refinancing of 39 Jane Shilton department store concessions across the uK from July 31.

But a source close to the situation told Drapers the takeover had been called off, following “heated” discussions between the two parties.

“It has been a really difficult year for the footwear industry and the scale of the deal has been a major factor [in the deal falling through],” the insider added. “Shoon and GA Europe had an opportunity to rethink the situation and decided they can’t support it.”

It is thought Shoon could still be on the lookout to acquire a smaller business.

Jane Shilton now faces the possibility of having to close its concessions if it fails to secure financing from elsewhere.

The collapse of the takeover comes at a bad time for Jane Shilton, which for the year to June 30, 2012 made a pre-tax loss of £1.9m. Turnover for the period

was £14.7m, down 3.2% from £15.2m the year before.

In a statement released at the time, Jane Shilton – which operates concessions in retailers including Browns of york and Beales – said the poor results came as a result of the wider trading environment, blaming “unseasonal and disruptive weather patterns” for the further lost revenue.

The business also had to write down nearly £750,000 as an exceptional charge from its footwear concessions, as part of its plans to sell to Shoon.

Shoon has experienced its own financial difficulties of late, having

difficult trading: Jane Shilton made a pre-tax loss of £1.9m in its last annual results

entered administration in february 2012.

The footwear retailer was then sold to its existing management as part of a buyout supported by GA Europe last May. At that point, the retailer closed 12 of its shops but continues to operate 11 stores in Bath, Brighton, Cheltenham, Epsom, Guildford, Kingston-uponThames, Reading, Salisbury, St Albans, Tunbridge Wells and Winchester.

Shoon declined to comment and no one from Jane Shilton was available.

This story was broken first online.

For up-to-the-minute news, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

/ Footwear /

New recruits to steer Hunter’s change of direction

By Jill Geoghegan

Wellington boot specialist Hunter is preparing to take the brand in a new direction for autumn 14 following a raft of new appointments taken from the world of clothing.

This week the brand announced a series of key hires, reinforcing the design, online, creative and commercial arms ahead of future expansion.

Chief executive James Seuss, who joined the business in December, hinted that big changes were afoot.

Seuss said: “Starting with autumn

2014, we plan to unveil a new brand and product direction now that our senior management team is in place.”

Among the new recruits is former Burberry designer niall Sloan, who joins as global design director.

Sloan has worked with luxury brand Burberry for the past decade, most recently as senior womenswear designer for its Burberry Prorsum sub-brand. He will now oversee the development and design of all product categories at Hunter.

Ken Pratt has also joined as chief

Give it some wellie: brand made its name with boots

financial officer from jewellery retailer Signet, while Ali Lowry has been hired as global communications director from Giorgio Armani, where he was uK communications director.

Drapers revealed earlier this month that Reiss’s ex-director of ecommerce, Dan Lumb, had left to take up the role of global online director at Hunter. This followed the february appointments of Stella McCartney’s designer husband Alasdhair Willis as creative director and fabrizio Stroppa as commercial sales director, who joined from Mulberry.

Drapers / JunE 22 2013 _ 7

By Jill Geoghegan

/ Trading /

News

Shoppers abandon suburban high streets while cities prosper The gap between big cities and smaller town centres is growing ever larger, with the secondary high streets losing out as consumers gravitate to larger centres.

Footfall figures published by Springboard this week showed that while regional cities such as Manchester, Birmingham and Leeds saw a 1.3% year-on-year increase in footfall during May, smaller cities and towns recorded declines of 2.9%.

London, central London and the West End were all in growth, with the West End delivering the strongest rise of 3.6%. Conversely, Greater London has experienced the biggest decline, with footfall dropping 5.7%.

Overall, footfall on high streets was down 1% year on year. UK-wide footfall, which includes out-of-town destinations and shopping centres, fell 0.7%.

Diane Wehrle, retail insights director at analyst Springboard, told Drapers: “A by-product of the multichannel evolution means people are gravitating towards larger towns, and that in turn will see retailers slim down their networks to focus on bigger centres.

Smaller towns will come off worse, especially those that don’t currently have a good range on offer.”

new west end company

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 8

By Catherine Neilan

West End attractions: footfall in central London increased in May

Coastal towns were particularly weak – down 3% – largely as a result of the bad weather. Historic towns saw a 0.5% fall, half the UK’s average decline.

“Historic towns with a strong offer will always do better than weaker towns without a point of interest,” Werhle said.

But a trend – previously reported by Drapers – for an increase in post-work footfall has continued, compared with a decline in footfall during work hours, suggesting retailers that stay open after 6pm could benefit from passing traffic.

Greater London’s declines now stretch over a long period of time, with footfall dropping 21% over the past three years.

Werhle attributed this to a lack of investment in commuter towns such as Croydon, where development has been held up by the year-long battle between mall developers Westfield and Hammerson, recently resolved by the two firms forming a partnership.

“Croydon is ripe for redevelopment.

There isn’t huge competition from local areas such as Bromley and Sutton, which indicates it would benefit from wholesale change,” she said.

For more analysis of high streets and footfall visit www.drapersonline.com/news

/ International /

Firm offers UK launch advice to global retailers

By Victoria Gallagher

A company that aims to help international retailers looking to open stores in the UK is set to launch next month.

LDN Retail is a partnership between property firm Shackleton, PR company Lamb to Slaughter, law firm RLS Property Lawyers and retail design company Pop Store. The new partnership aims to help international retailers unfamiliar with the British market navigate property laws and business practices.

Rob Fay, co-founder of Shackleton Property, said he had found a demand for an easy route into the London market. “Nothing like this exists at the moment and so there is a bit of a gap,” said Fay. “The people we’ve been talking to at trade shows, such as Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter, have all expressed a desire to be in London. But they’ve found there are more hurdles than with launching into other markets.”

Donna Lambert, founder of Lamb to Slaughter, described LDN Retail as a

Moving in: Chinese retailer Bosideng launched in the UK last year

“one stop shop” for international retailers and brands wanting to make the move to London.

Lambert added that the service would help save time and money spent resourcing and searching for separate property consultants, lawyers, store design, human resources and PR/ marketing companies.

The founders of LDN Retail already have established contacts and clients in Europe, US, Japan, China, South Korea and Australia, so will be targeting brands and retailers from these countries.

berlin preview pLan yoUr visit to thE BErLin tradE shoWs With oUr gUidE to thE MUst-sEE Brands p34

Most read stories

01

InvestIgatIon launched aFter chIld dIes In hugo Boss store 02

Separates join offer as Montique eyes growth Occasionwear brand Montique is adding separates to its spring 14 collection as it plots further expansion.

The Australian brand (autumn 13, pictured), which has focused on dresses until now, will add blouses, trousers and knitwear to its offer.

Howard Ross, director of Retail Brand Connection, which runs and manages the brand in the UK, said there was a huge opportunity for expansion into separates.

He added: “As a brand you need to have a wide range of product. We are looking at retail opportunities and you can’t stock a department store or a shop with just dresses. Plus it’s a trend our customers are asking for as well.”

Despite diversifying the range, the collection will get smaller as Montique focuses on quality over quantity. The spring 14 range will comprise between 100 and 120 pieces compared with 160 for spring 13.

04

FourmarketIng Bolsters Its Brand portFolIo

/ Womenswear /

By Victoria Gallagher

03

rIck owens collaBorates wIth adIdas

Retail prices are to drop by at least 10% for the season, with stockists benefitting from price reductions in the factories used by Montique.

“Everyone is watching the pennies.

We want to give customers an even better perceived value,” said Ross.

The final wholesale price structure is yet to be decided but for spring 13 prices ranged from £40 to £80.

Montique is also plotting retail expansion and Ross said he was in discussions with several department stores about launching corners or concessions in their stores, ahead of plans to open standalone stores.

Montique’s UK business moved into showrooms on Newman Street in central London last week, “a sign of the brand’s investment in the UK market”, said Ross. “We recognise it is tough, which is why we are putting everything into making sure we’ve got the right product.”

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stella mccartney expands denIm range

Most commented stories

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exclusIve: mystery Buyer close to coggles deal 02

repuBlIc’s Future In douBt 03

exclusIve: coggles Bought out oF admInIstratIon 04

exclusIve: skIlls deFIcIt creates two-tIer joBs market 05

rIvals pIle pressure on underperFormIng h&m To read all the latest news and to comment on stories, go to www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 9

The Only Way Is Essex star Mark Wright is the face of Littlewoods’ menswear, joining TV presenter Myleene Klass as a brand ambassador for the etailer. He will style and model a capsule collection for its Goodsouls range.

exclusIve: coggles Bought out oF admInIstratIon

OPINION

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 11

Menswear treads a familiar path on London catwalks _ Caroline Nodder

T

he menswear season kicked off this week with London Collections: Men offering a first glimpse of spring 14.

Congratulations are due to the British Fashion Council for establishing in just three seasons an event of the calibre of LCM, which improves each season and is now a mustattend for many key international buyers and the press.

To have created this kind of buzz in such a short space of time is a real achievement and this season’s shows were the slickest yet. It is also more fitting than ever that men should have their own separate fashion event at a time when menswear is outperforming womenswear in many areas. The UK’s men are becoming more fashion forward and engaging with brands as never before.

For spring 14 Burberry left Milan and brought its menswear show to London for the first time since LCM launched. This is a real testament to the strength of the event, since the brand has no doubt been weighing up how successful LCM was before deciding to commit.

It was also great to see John Lewis and Marks & Spencer showing alongside Topman, giving the event a more grounded feel and sounding the gong for the high street.

But what of this year’s crop of catwalk looks themselves?

The idea that menswear now gets a separate event offers so much opportunity to do something a bit different with the shows, and bring a bit of fashion daring to some of the looks. After all, often these catwalks act as

inspiration rather than a shopping list for buyers.

However, most designers played it very safe and commercial, and some of the venues outshone the clothing they were meant to form a backdrop for.

I understand that designers often use their womenswear as an inspiration for their menswear, but I did feel I’d seen a lot of these looks, shapes and colours before, just reworked for the male shape.

I have to mention the JW Anderson show. The designer made headlines at last season’s LCM with his boob tubes and frilly skorts for men, and consistently delights at his London Fashion Week womenswear shows. But at this year’s LCM he was talked about for all the wrong reasons.

Anderson’s collection drew such close inspiration from his womenswear that at some points the collections must surely be interchangeable – I had my eye on the silk patterned halterneck tops for my own wardrobe. But my main issue was with the models used on the catwalk.

To say they were painfully thin is an understatement.

While I was pleased at the last LFW to see female models on the whole looking more healthy than they had in the past, these male models made the audience wince.

The chat as the crowd moved off to the next show was almost entirely about the size of the models, not the clothing. I really do hope this isn’t going to become a feature of the men’s fashion world.

Drapers editor-in-chief / caroline.nodder@emap.com

TELL US YOUR THOUGHTS – WHAT DID YOU THINK OF THE LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN CATWALKS? www.drapersonline.com

OPINION

/ Talking Business /

‘People go into shops to make purchases, not friends’ _ Paul McManus

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 12

L

ast week we saw a top 10 retailer who wanted to talk to us about an autumn campaign. Money was tight – it always is – but they asked us to come back with a social aspect. Something with content, that people would view on Pinterest or Facebook.

Perhaps you think that’s a good idea. Perhaps you’re even doing it.

But how is it working? How many transactions can you link back to likes on your Facebook page? What does your tweet-to-sales ratio look like? And how much is it costing you?

We’ve all got this fear of being out of touch with our customers. But when you decide you want to buy something online, do you spend time reading blogs or watching behind-the-

scenes videos? In reality you probably don’t have the time, and if you don’t, why do you think your customers do?

Social networks are social, not commercial. People go into shops to make purchases, not to make friends. Why should the online retail experience be any different?

It breaks my heart when we’re asked to save money on the stylist or photographer so we can spend more on videos and social media. It’s not what’s behind the scenes that sells – it’s the scene itself. Get that right and your audience will be falling over itself to interact with you. Get it wrong and they’ll ignore you.

Paul McManus, chief executive of brand communications agency Crave

/ Talking Shop /

‘As an indie, finding a niche in the market is paramount’ _ Richard Harvey

O

ur shop is situated among a group of indie stores trading in Pottergate, part of the Norwich Lanes, close to the city centre. In our own unique way we all contribute to help each other.

Regular, passing and destination customers home in on this area to benefit from the wide and varied fashions on offer. Safety in numbers definitely applies in this instance.

As an indie, finding a niche in the market is paramount. Stocking a great selection of ethical clothing brands, specialising in natural fabrics, and selling at perceived value-for-money prices, is key.

Brands such as Seasalt and Adini do well for us. While these and other major brands we stock are well

represented in Norfolk, almost all of our suppliers give us exclusivity in Norwich. This, of course, is a great advantage for us as Norwich is the central focus for shopping in Norfolk.

We offer special promotions throughout the year, which helps us compete with big stores’ continuous ‘on Sale’ policies. Unfortunately this spring’s inclement weather has upset our other strategy of quickly marking down goods that aren’t selling well.

The question now is, was that non-mover a buying mistake or was the weather to blame? The jury is out.

Joint owner of lifestyle indie The Good Earth Clothing Company in Norwich, and member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES

BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

05 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘Rivals pile pressure on underperforming H&M’ – H&M needs to stop the vanity parade that is Cos and the collabs with designers that nobody outside Monaco cares about Anonymous

02 ‘Sales soar at Asos’ – They have their strategy spot on. International expansion, limited markdown, great product presentation and good mix of brand and own brand. Great supplier relations too Michael Thomson

03 ‘Republic’s future in doubt’ – Creative landlords will be the ones that win by supporting retailers more closely Anonymous

04 ‘Skills deficit creates two-tier jobs market’ – Businesses must broaden their vision and look for candidates with transferable skills Anonymous

05 ‘Primark commits to $1m aid as it starts factory inspections’ – This is very admirable of Primark to contribute, they needed to do something towards this catastrophe Abigail Fields

Online Poll This week’s poll result Is H&M losing out to Primark and Asos?

YES

NO

64% 36% This week’s question Can Bill Grimsey improve on Mary Portas’s efforts to save the high street? www.drapersonline.com

Visit us at Bread and Butter, Urban Superior (Hall 6) 28.2

Fashion INDEX

‘Consumers should be careful what they wish for’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 14

S

ince the onset of the financial crisis, many shopping centre developments have been put on hold amid concerns that economic conditions would discourage retailers from opening new shops. As a result, the number of shopping centres in development recently hit a 10-year low.

However, a recent report published by property firm CBRE has revealed that shopping centre projects are restarting for the first time since 2008. Schemes in Glasgow, Leeds, Oxford, Bracknell and Bradford have begun to gather renewed momentum after retailers including John Lewis signed as anchor tenants. As such, commercial developments like these could form part of the largest development surge in a generation as they begin to move out of the planning phase and into reality.

Yet anyone who thinks this news is wholly positive may need to think again. While large-scale developments may create new jobs and retail opportunities, they tend to give with one hand and take away with the other. For example, out-of-town retail sites saw a 1.2% increase in footfall last month compared with the same period in 2012, but the performance of other shopping destinations decreased, with reported footfall now below the UK average.

The regeneration of these large out-of-town sites will only exacerbate this problem, as it will simply increase the retail ghettoisation elsewhere. Moreover, once certain figurehead shops decide to leave the high street, the knock-on effect is likely to be significant.

WHSmith, for example, has just decided to close its main branch in Wolverhampton, making it the latest in a long list of retailers to pull out of the city, including TK Maxx, Dorothy Perkins, Oasis and H Samuel.

Such closures are a serious blow for the high street.

Retail adviser Mary Portas said she was “devastated” to hear that a Tesco superstore had been approved on the Margate seafront, as the impact on the town centre was likely to be catastrophic. She may have a point.

Store openings like these make the rich of retail richer and the poor poorer. In the end it’s the customer who loses out. Everyone likes a bit of convenience, but forward-thinking consumers who want to keep their town centres should be careful what they wish for.

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures

Week 24 – June 10 to June 16, 2013

+5.3%

-3.4% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The Experian FootFall shows a 5.3% week-on-week increase in traffic and a decline of 3.4% year on year, which is slightly better than the year-to-date shortfall of 4.3%. Each day last week produced a decline on last year, possibly as a result of the buoyant conditions following the Diamond Jubilee. Ten of the 11 regions saw footfall levels drop below those for the same week last year. In contrast, their weekly figures were higher than last. The only exception is the Northeast region, which has recently enjoyed positive performance but which this week fell 1.8%.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending June 16, 2013

-0.35%

0.0% Total fashion

Clothing

+28.33% Footwear

It was a disappointing week with most stores reporting subdued activity. Like-for-likes fell by 2.6% with homewares the weakest performer. The seasonal clearance boost was much weaker than normal. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 9% LEEDS 24.9%

2. Sales 7.5% 3. Merchandising 5.6% 3. Production 5.6%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.3% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR & ACCESSORIES

The clothing, footwear and accessories market is in growth, driven by womenswear, kidswear and older shoppers

£15.5bn Expenditure

+1.3% +0.6%

1.5bn

£10.27

-0.7%

Average selling price

Number of units

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012

30%

0% SPORTS STORES

SUPERMARKET

DISCOUNTER

HOME SHOPPING

PURE-PLAY ETAIL

FOOTWEAR

DEPT STORES

Natasha Shatford, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

GENERAL STORES

Growth in womenswear, the strongest in any category

INDIES

Increase in online sales of clothing, footwear and accessories

+1.1%

FASHION CHAINS

+12.9%

The older ages (45+) continue to drive the market. Average prices are up 2% and shoppers are buying more often

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● GALERIES LAFAYETTE has unveiled a

flagship store in the Indonesian capital Jakarta, at the Pacific Place mall. The four-floor, 130,000 sq ft outlet is the first step in a long-awaited Asian expansion for the French luxury department store operator.

CANADA

● INDITEX has launched its first ‘cluster’ of

USA

INDONESIA

suppliers in Argentina. It is also producing in Brazil with around 59 to 69 suppliers. In 2012, the number of suppliers in the region grew 3% to 68. In Asia, the Spanish fashion giant has 672 suppliers, but this is declining.

● NORDSTROM’s Wedding Suite has BANGLADESH BRAZIL ARGENTINA

unveiled a two-month collaboration with Etsy Wholesale, a new division of the etailer.

The range features 80 SKUs, including hair accessories and bridesmaids’ gifts.

● UNIQLO will debut standalone stores in

Bangladesh, in an extension to its joint venture with Grameen Healthcare. Initially, two stores will open in Dhaka, but the chain plans to open stores across the country.

Etsy aligns with the Wedding Suite as we both want to make the journey as enjoyable as possible by becoming a trusted resource Andrea Wasserman, national bridal director, Wasserman

● HUDSON’S BAY has said efforts to bring in

leading retailers like Topshop and Burberry to set up shop in the department store chain’s stores have paid off. Sales at five Topshop sites are at CAD$500 ($488) per square foot and five more locations are planned in 2013.

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 15

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Kidswear 0-4 YEARS

5-12 YEARS

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

Top 10

Top 10 1

Mayoral

1

Mayoral

2

Catimini

2

Hugo Boss

3

Monnalisa

3

Hugo Boss

4

Monnalisa

5

Joules

6

Sarah Louise

7

Timberland

8

Emile et Rose

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -13% year-on-year change

4

Joules

5

Scotch & Soda

6

Catimini

7

Pampolina

8

Name It

9

Lilly & Sid

9

Ralph Lauren

10

Petit Bateau

10

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Dresses

2

T-shirts

3

Babywear

4

Shorts

5

Tops

Top 5

£71 AVERAGE SPEND

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -12% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Dresses

2

T-shirts

3

Shorts

4

Hats

5

Tops

£96

Top 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through 1

£4,328

Mayoral

Week ending June 15, 2013

1

2

Catimini

2

Catimini

3

Hugo Boss

3

Monnalisa

4

Monnalisa

4

Name It

5

Lilly & Sid

5

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Mayoral

2

Hugo Boss

3

Monnalisa

4

Name It

5

Armani New Born & Baby

-12% FootFAll Change for week ending June 15, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

-12%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Mayoral

2

Hugo Boss

3

Name It

4

Esprit

5

Catimini

INDIE WATCH

+0.86%

FootFAll Change for week ending June 15, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

75 THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

-9.65%

Week ending June 15, 2013

Mayoral

-15%

%

of kidswear indies have not upped their spring 14 budget

AVERAGE moNtHlY tAKINGS

PRoFIt mARGIN

AVERAGE NumBER oF uNItS SolD

Data for May 6 to June 2, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 16

£3,697

www.aigle.com

DEPUIS 1853 paris . london . tokyo . nature SPRING/SUMMER 2014 AT BREAD & BUTTER IN L.O.C.K.

UK and Ireland – tel.: 01608 613 860 – uksales@aigle.com

paypal etail awards 2013 I the winners

Digital champions

Drapers / JUne 22 2013 _ 18

The PayPal Etail Awards winners picked up their trophies and toasted their success

Best Redesign/Relaunch Dune Awards host Adam Buxton (left) watched Kate Smyth from Dune and Dev Day (right) of etail provider Paraspar collect the trophy from Practicology’s Martin Newman

Digital Marketing Campaign Very (From left) Shop Direct’s Vicky Betts and Rachel Rimmer, with award presenter Keely Stocker from Drapers

Torque Best Use of Innovation Topshop The team from Topshop picked up the award from Tim Howarth (third from right) of sponsor Torque

Best App Mothercare Mothercare’s team were handed the award by David Smith from GLD Group (right)

The Shopow Best Use of Social Media Appliances Online Kevin Flood (right) from sponsor Shopow presented the award to the team from Appliances Online

PayPal Best Mobile-Optimised Site John Lewis (From left) Lloyd Page and Sean O’Connor from John Lewis received the award from Simon Moran of award sponsor PayPal

Best Customer Service Morrisons Retail Week’s Chris Brook-Carter (right) handed the award to (from second left) Paul Sanderson and Ken Platt of Morrisons

Best Pure-Play Etailer – Small Loaf Loaf’s Robert White (centre) collected the trophy from James Hart from award sponsor Asos

The Chase Paymentech Best Pure-Play Etailer – Large Appliances Online The Appliances Online team were handed the award by Ray McDonnell (right) from sponsor Chase Paymentech

Organised by

In partnership with

Category sponsors

Party pictures t (From left) Tony Mannix from Clipper, Whistles’ Louise Salt, Sean Fahey from Clipper, Neil Ashworth from Collect+ and Clipper’s Mike Daly

Success Digital Best Multichannel Retailer – Small Childrensalon Deepak Saluja (fourth from right) from sponsor Success Digital gave the award to Childrensalon’s team

Clipper Logistics Best Multichannel Retailer – Large Argos The team from Argos picked up the trophy from Tony Mannix (right) of sponsor Clipper Logistics

p Lovehoney’s Matthew Curry (left) and Ray Hayes with Magento’s Jenny Homer p House of Fraser’s Victoria Askew (left) and Alice Wright

Consumer Choice Award Amazon Jessica Brown from Amazon was handed the trophy

by George MacDonald of Retail Week

PayPal Overall Award for Excellence Appliances Online The team from Appliances Online collected the award from Mark Brant (right) from sponsor PayPal

Supporters

p (From left) eBay’s Sean Douglas, House of Fraser’s Martin Francis and Matt Tobiss of eBay

u Birthe Emmerich and Simon Moran from headline sponsor PayPal

Charity partner

p PayPal’s Michelle Gi�in (left) and Susan Rodrigues with Chris Webster of eBay

Photobooth Sponsor

ROkSANDA ILINCIC I CLOSE-UP

Get your Roks on

The architecturally-minded designer is on a roll thanks to her elegant aesthetic and exacting eye

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 21

Words by IAN WRIGHT Portrait by Tom cAmpbell

T Shape shifting: Ilincic (left) and pieces from her new 2013 resort collection (above and right)

he rain is hammering down on the metal roof of Roksanda Ilincic’s east London studio as I wait for her to arrive. It’s mid-May and Ilincic is finalising the details of her 2013 resort collection, so the pitter-patter seems dramatically at odds with where her business is right now. However, the metallic tapping is the only real noise to speak of, as Ilincic’s mostly female team calmly goes about cutting, sewing and selling. It’s this tranquil touch that has characterised the Belgrade-born, London-based designer’s rise to prominence.

This is borne out through the brand’s revenues, which have grown 40% for the past four consecutive years, although turnover figures were unavailable. Since launching a small collection of dresses in 2002, Ilincic has gone on to not only expand the line but also create a swimwear range for spring 12 and kidswear in a spring 12 pre-collection. “We are profitable,” she says, as we discuss her latest resort collection. In line with the wider industry, it’s the inter-season ranges that are driving the rapid growth.

“Resort is definitely the main collection. I’m always expanding all the collections but resort is

certainly the bestseller,” she explains. “But I think the show is still so important. The presentation creates the voice of the designer – I don’t think they’ll ever disappear. To create such a strong voice you have to push certain priorities forward,” she says, adding that price point and wearability might not be front of mind when creating a collection. “We need both of them – one for creativity and one for driving the sales.

“Commercial is seen as this ugly word. I call [the pieces] ‘must-haves’,” she continues, as she reveals her finely tuned mind. “Perfectly priced garments are very important – resort and pre-collections have become so vital to everyone’s business,” adds Ilincic, noting that she sees buyers investing more heavily into the lines she shows away from the catwalk.

Ilincic started the balancing act early. “I was always into fashion, even from being a little girl,” she recalls. “I liked to customise every single toy I got. I customised my mum’s clothes.

And when I say ‘customised’ it means in other words, ‘to ruin’. That’s where it all started.”

Once all grown up, she travelled from Serbia to Soho, simultaneously studying fashion and architecture in her homeland before arriving in London to attend the famed Fashion Design MA u

CLOSE-UP I ROkSANDA ILINCIC

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 22

course at Central Saint Martins in 1999. But her architect’s eye has always been a key part of her design process and one of the reasons her brand has flourished over the past eight years.

Most wanted: the resort range is Ilincic’s best-selling collection, driven by the popularity of the dresses

“CONSTRUCTION IS SO IMPORTANT. I think more about the lightness of construction, done with just a few things,” she explains. Her dresses are suspended by the minimum of internal points, creating “a fluid architecture”, a construct Ilincic also wants someone to enjoy wearing. “I’m always thinking about the comfort of the person that’s in the dress” she adds. And it’s this approach that has made the brand a hit with buyers.

“I think Roksanda really understands what women want to wear,” says Laura Larbalestier, buying director of London luxury indie Browns, Ilincic’s first major stockist. “She reinvents herself season after season,” she continues, both qualities Larbalestier attributes to her success in the Uk and beyond and why Browns and many of its competitors increase their spend on Ilincic season on season.

Natalie kingham, head of fashion at designer mini-chain Matches, agrees: “Her collections always do incredibly and we see a strong sell-through each season. Roksanda always gets it right. She also has a very good eye for colour combinations and has a knack of always getting the proportions just right.” Ilincic herself speaks of the “dialogue” between her, her stockists and her customers as being core to her business, working together and listening to feedback while maintaining her vision and driving her brand.

One such example of really hitting the sweet spot came in Ilincic’s beautiful spring 12 range, when a dress dubbed The Margot, an eye-wateringly pink, lantern-sleeved style, was revealed, and its rocketing popularity was tracked

by Ilincic’s rising star. Understatedly kingham describes it as being “incredibly popular with our clients” – rumour has it Matches sold out of the dress 80 times over – and you couldn’t move for sightings on socialites and football WAGs alike.

But Ilincic has never courted celebrity and actively decided to take the attention away from the dress even though there might have been more money to make.

“It was such an unexpected success and not something I planned, even though I do try to make those must-have dresses,” Ilincic recalls, “But I also feel that at the time it wasn’t really right to have so many of them and kill the magic of the dress. Exclusivity in fashion is very important.” She does continue to produce The Margot for private clients and doesn’t rule out revisiting it in the future, but stepping away from such a cash cow illustrates just how in tune the designer is with her woman, her business and her label.

Adding ranges along the way, as well as collaborating with retailers Whistles,

Debenhams and Aldo, has served Ilincic well as she beefs up the brand. The introduction of kidswear in particular has added a new dimension. “It was in the five-year plan but wasn’t supposed to happen so soon,” Ilincic explains. But then along came her daughter Efimia in 2011. “Mia was the reason I started it and why I understand it. If I started before I wouldn’t be so aware of what works. I thought let’s just start with one dress and it went from there,” she says, gesturing to a rail bursting with the latest collection.

But becoming a mother for the first time didn’t just give Ilincic a new collection to consider, it changed her outlook: “Before I had a child I couldn’t even understand how women can have several children and still run successful businesses. But once you get your own child you realise things are possible and you can create things just as good as before but with a slightly different approach. Things aren’t a matter of life or death as they used to be,” she reveals.

“WE ARE IN A GOOD PLACE NOW,” she

chuckles, as she sits running through her plans for the future. In the pipeline is a range of accessories, bags, shoes and jewellery – all sensible next steps Ilincic feels are important to growing the brand further – with menswear something that “will definitely happen, but not in the near future”. Sorry boys.

A first flagship store is on the horizon too.

Ilincic explains: “It has to be in London – it’s such an important market for me it wouldn’t make sense to open anywhere else.” She goes on to describe how much more powerful London is than when she started showing at London Fashion Week in 2003 and how she is happy based in the city, both in terms of the business and her headlining catwalk show.

“But who knows what the future will bring?” she adds, her pragmatic mind making sure she doesn’t close off any opportunities. “We have a strong plan but not a stubborn plan,” Ilincic asserts. “[Backing] coming from outside but with real fashion knowledge and expertise would be a dream come true but there are other ways to achieve our goals.” Funding is important to Ilincic but not the final word: “I’m not doing this for the money – I do it for the love.”

Would she go in-house to design for a megabrand? “I’m open to that. You can gain a lot from the connection with certain brands and bring a lot back to this business as well,” she says, before adding coyly: “There have been some offers in the past but they weren’t quite right.”

The forecast seems bright for the brand as it enters its next chapter; and Ilincic is a woman very much in control of her future. And the weather too, it seems – as I leave the studio the rain stops and the sun peeks through the clouds. How very apt.

SHOPWATCH

River Island _

Marble Arch, London

Drapers / JUNe 22 2013 _ 24

JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

T

o say a store is the biggest in a fashion retail chain is a mixed blessing. Because it is the biggest, the expectation is perhaps that it will be in some way different and certainly better.

There is also the notion that massive size confers flagship status, with all the raised hopes this tends to carry as well.

It is a moot point, however, whether the new River Island, located in the Park House development at the western end of Oxford Street, is a flagship. It is certainly bigger than the store directly across the street that River Island has vacated for this one. It has more merchandise and is definitely glitzier. But is it better than the branch about 600 metres away that is closer to Oxford Circus?

Shoppers will decide, but what it does do is provide a young fashion alternative to Primark, which is just a few metres distant.

02

COnCEPT 

Brick, brick and more brick. River Island has been using the material as the defining characteristic of its interiors for a while now and this store is that idea writ large. On the first floor there is a brick wall with a video screen embedded in it – something not seen in its other shops. But it is the subtle segmentation of the offers that marks this one out. It would have been easy to put mid-shop walls in, but the suspended rails are made to do all of the work.

01

VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG 

River Island is one of the titans of mid-market fashion and has always been good at visual merchandising and the business of making more of what’s there. This store embodies this skill and does it better than any other River

Island to date.

A quick shimmy round the ground floor, home to womenswear, goes a long way towards illustrating why this store is worth a visit.

There’s a giraffe, close to full size, next to a pair of mannequins. Then

the shopper may notice the yellow spiral staircase. This actually serves no purpose other than to serve as a mid-shop footwear display prop of the kind that might almost distract from the merchandise, but it certainly gets you looking.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 473 Oxford street, London W1 OPENED June 8 NUMBER OF FLOORS three AMBiENcE Mid-market, proud of it and stylish

03

05

There are always staff on the floor in a River Island store, but they are frequently engaged in keeping the rails, tables and perimeter units filled, meaning they don’t have quite as much time as might be desirable to help the shopper.

Not so in the Marble Arch behemoth. Perhaps it’s the size, maybe it’s the prestige of the project, but there is a member of staff on hand every time you clear your throat. This might actually be off-putting, but it is a whole lot better than the alternative.

Say anything you like, but don’t use the ‘P’ word. Primark is a few steps away and there will certainly be variations on the many themes on offer in this store, it’s just that they will be cheaper. However, if you choose to shop somewhere other than Primark in this part of Oxford Street, Urban Outfitters,

Room for improvement 01

if you were to be hyper-critical about the interior, there is almost a surfeit of brick on the walls and pillars. it looks good, but it runs the risk of sameness.

02

Navigation in general is not a problem – the space is well signposted. But owing to the sheer size of the store, it can occasionally be difficult to know what’s where.

03

the ‘summer in the City’ display gets the message across, but the backdrop – which is white – is almost too minimalist.

COmPETITIOn  Bershka and Zara all put their best foot forward and all of them represent strong competition for River Island.

And that’s just on the same side of the street. Cross over and you can choose from Topshop, New Look and Marks & Spencer.

This is a tough environment in which to trade.

Drapers / JUNe 22 2013 _ 25

SERVICE 

04

PRODUCT 

The point about this store is that it is very large and the task of keeping it filled and maintaining variety on each level is never going to be straightforward. That said, there is never a sense of repetition and the bright and pastel stories in womenswear are both

well represented. The women’s footwear department looks particularly strong with most of the major looks captured.

This is a mid-market fashion store and the product offer is robust enough to make the shopper feel that almost every fad has been covered.

06

VERDICT Bigger is Better

If you’re a fan of River Island, then this store will warm the cockles. There’s a lot to be said for having the courage of your convictions and this retailer is clear about both format and product range and both are shown off to advantage in this store. There is also much to admire about its street-facing persona, with the ‘Summer in the City’ campaign looking at ease with the shopfront. River Island has taken a major step forward with this store and it should find favour with those who make to this end of Oxford Street … on their 36 50 way to Primark.

to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

ECOMM

Who has launched the most successful social campaign?

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 26

SUZIE EMPSON Commercial director at premium menswear brand Farrell

I particularly like the Warehouse ‘Style Me If You Can’ (www.warehouse.co.uk/ style-me-if-you-can) campaign, as it’s easy and fun to do and directly engages the target customer with the product.

It puts the consumer in the driving seat as the stylist. It enables them to pull together outfits and look for different scenarios and locations. The ‘Style Me If You Can’ hub has an integrated social media platform that allows users to comment on and share styled outfits.

The looks with the most likes will then make it into Warehouse’s autumn 13 campaign while other top-ranking looks can win Warehouse vouchers and trips to fashion capitals.

MARTIN NEWMAN Chief executive of ecommerce consultancy Practicology

I particularly liked the Burberry ‘Body Fragrance’ campaign (www.facebook. com/pages/Burberry-Body/ 172621259501331?fref=ts) a couple of years ago. It recognises that the best marketing strategy on social media is a ‘pull strategy’ where you add value to your existing customers and their friends, resulting in them talking about and sharing your proposition, as opposed to a ‘push strategy’, where the brand invades the customers’ social space with untimely or irrelevant offers.

Its approach was to say to existing fans, “Give us your name and address and we’ll send you a free sample of our new fragrance”. This one move increased its customer database by 250,000 in two weeks while also driving sales.

Burberry also had tremendous early success with its ‘Art of the Trench’ campaign in 2009 (Artofthetrench.com), which allowed users to upload their photo in a Burberry trench coat. Since launching the Art of the Trench, it has had more than 20.2 million page views.

p Talent contest: Warehouse lets the consumer act as a stylist q In the picture: Burberry’s ‘Art of the Trench’ was a roaring success

JONATHAN HUDSON Social and mobile lead at home shopping group Shop Direct

The [men’s toiletries brand] Old Spice personalised video campaign was utterly brilliant. Heading towards 46 million views on YouTube, it showed how you can use great content and a sense of humour to breathe new life into an old brand.

From an internal perspective, we’re probably most proud of ‘Littlewoods LIVE’, Littlewoods’ ground-breaking

Facebook TV show (www.facebook.com/ littlewoods/app_434785129913948).

It’s not only helped Littlewoods gain tens of thousands of new Facebook fans but also consistently demonstrates tangible sales benefits.

JENNIFER ROEBUCK Multichannel marketing director at young fashion business French Connection

Despite the controversy around the ‘Share a Coke’ Coca-Cola campaign (www.coca-cola.co.uk/faq/products/ share-a-coke.html) due to the limited selection of names available in each country, the attempt to personalise a mass-produced beverage like Coke and then join up all of the communication and retail channels is impressive.

Retailers are all trying to achieve the holy grail of one customer view, 360-degree communications and multichannel experiences, but no one has made an impact like this in fashion.

The campaign has generated a projected rise in reach of 3% on Twitter UK and 5% on Facebook UK, which is significant when you look at its reach of 51% and 40% respectively. The sales impact hasn’t been revealed yet, but in its test markets Coke claims sales rose.

I N T E R N A T I O N A L F A S H I O N T R A D E S H O W S P R I N G — S U M M E R 2 0 1 4

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10.11.12 september 2013 portello fieramilanocity

fall/winter 2014-15

fall/winter 2014-15

V edition Textile and Accessory top-end collections for womenswear and menswear

www.milanounica.it

Con il patrocinio di

DIRECTIONS

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

This week’s hero

BRUTUS DENIM

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 29

It’s a blast from the past for spring 14, as menswear label Brutus continues to re-establish itself. The brand, which originally rose to fame in the 1960s, was relaunched for autumn 13 by the son of one of its founders. The Trim-fit shirt was the first piece to be revived for autumn, but for spring 14 a denim line has been introduced, based on original samples from the 1970s. The first British brand to use stonewash and Japanese denim, Brutus denim was outselling Levi’s at the height of its fame. Two fits, slim and regular, will come in a number of washes. Expect big things from this vintage winner. Wholesale prices range from £25 to £35.

Contact: 020 7224 4882 www.brutus-trimfit.com

Design inspiration comes from original 1970s embroidered detail

THE BUZZ / Fashion foreword /

German efficiency goes missing at Berlin shows

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 30

A

_ Ian Wright

s you will see from our preview of Berlin (p30), the number of shows squashed into four days in the German capital promises to make for the busiest season yet. But where will it end? On top of the seven or so trade shows going on at the same time, there is also the prospect of a chocka-block Berlin Fashion Week schedule to contend with.

While I appreciate it’s unlikely that, for example, the buyers going to Bright are the same as those perched front row at a catwalk show, surely this fashion density is too much for the time- and often cash-poor buyers and indie owners. Running around like a fly with a cobalt derrière is not conducive to making sound buying decisions. As such I would wager that buyers back away from committing to deals there and then, hence how Bread & Butter was considered for a long time as one big party rather than a trade event.

Not only that, but dedicating enough time to digging out the new brands that will make their offer feel fresh is hard when the sheer number of stands a buyer has to get around is unmanageable. This is especially true when you consider the lack of co-operation to coexist harmoniously that the rival trade shows display, with moving around town between fairs a frustrating and time-consuming task.

This can’t be good for anyone’s business – buyers don’t find the things they want, brands don’t get enough one-on-one time with buyers nor order books signed.

Before long people will stay away and the next thing you know the shows are emptier than a panto headlined by ex-Big Brother contestants. As such disgruntled exhibitors will confront organisers, wondering where everyone went and subsequently move out. To stop the decline some editing and collaboration is needed, but who’s going to be the big person and sign the peace treaty first?

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget!

Look out for...

ON THE RADAR —

Realm & Empire

Spring 14 sees British label Realm & Empire expand its offer into a full menswear collection, to include outerwear, shirts, accessories and trousers. Now four seasons old, the brand draws its inspiration from the arid lands of Lawrence of Arabia, influenced by its continuing collaboration with the British Imperial War Museums. Should go down a (desert) storm. Wholesale prices range from £12 to £70.

Contact: 01892 522889 http://realmandempire.com

Adidas unzips a link-up with Dixon

/ Trendwatch /

Adidas this week unveiled its latest collaboration at menswear show Pitti Uomo, a spring 14 link-up with product designer Tom Dixon. The clothing, accessories and footwear combine Dixon’s design innovation with Adidas’s technical fabrics and performancewear.

Two travel bags, which unzip to reveal various pockets, sections and layers, form the core of the debut range, the first in a two-year partnership. Wholesale prices range from £48 to £392.

Contact: 07711 567899 www.adidas.co.uk Jason Wu

Christian Dior Versace

TOP OF THE CROPS

Stomach-baring tops are likely to be one of spring’s most commercial trends. A young fashion favourite, their appearance in the spring 14 resort collections shows they also work on a premium level.

LONDON TO FLORENCE Find the top brands from the most stylish menswear shows in next week’s issue

ON TREND, ONLINE Visit the website or follow Drapers on Twitter and Instagram for live updates from the shows

VISIT OUR B&B STAND H2.17.3 www.uclaclothing.com

DIRECTIONS I THE STYLE COUNCIL

How is the kidswear market performing?

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 32

This week’s panel

Alex Theophanous The market landscape over the past four years has shown kidswear being one of the only fashion categories with strong and consistent growth. 2013 has been a momentous year so far for AlexandAlexa.

We hosted the very first Global Kids Fashion Week, a platform for designers including Chloé (pictured, spring 13) and Paul Smith, as well as emerging brands.

EVA KARAYIANNIS Founder and creative director of kidswear brand Caramel Baby & Child

Torly Grimshawe We continue to see significant growth in kidswear and Harrods has expanded its offering to more than 66,000 sq ft.

We’ve also seen an emergence in fashion houses developing children’s clothing and customers have responded to it. This is particularly evident across brands such as Oscar de la Renta (pictured, autumn 13).

Our clients are looking for pieces with quality and longevity.

TORLY GRIMSHAWE Head of childrenswear, Harrods

KURT JEWSON Co-founder of ethical kidswear brand Frugi

ALEX THEOPHANOUS Chief executive and founder of kidswear etailer AlexandAlexa

Eva Karayiannis I’ve observed a shift in the industry away from less business-minded players towards a more business-focused attitude.

Buyers that visit us (Caramel Baby & Child, pictured) at shows are increasingly bigger players, with clear strategies, large budgets and a strong desire to invest. The business has become a new focus for the industry and I see this continuing, with large growth in this market.

Kurt Jewson We’re growing at around 40% a year by focusing on what we believe in: a transparent supply chain, beautifully designed clothes (Frugi, pictured), strong support for our retailers and the passion to make things ethically. Frugi’s success shows there are definitely growth opportunities in the kidswear market at the moment, for brands which stick to their core values.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

VISIT US AT BREAD & BUTTER 2–4 July - Stand #A37 - Urban Base tel: 01458 449300 | email: customerservice@palladiumbooots.co.uk

DIRECTIONS I BERLIN PREVIEW

Berlin

SPrING �� PreVIeW

trade shows

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 34

Words by GRAEME MORAN & EMILY NORVAL

T

he buying season well and truly kicked off this week, with London Collections: Men signalling the start of the madness before menswear buyers jetted off to Pitti Uomo.

In true Drapers fashion, we’re here to guide you through the season, giving you the essential information before, during and after the shows. Hence this, our guide to Berlin’s bustling hub of trade events.

Berlin has long been regarded as one of the biggest destinations on the trade show calendar, helped by the city’s reputation for a good time. In between the 12-hour after-parties, Berlin now has a line-up of seven trade shows, all in the first week of July. From the edginess of Bright, with its urban skatewear and surfwear, via high-end Premium, the cool chic of Seek and streetwear giant Bread & Butter, the city has something for every buyer. While newer events Show and Order and Panorama are still finding their feet, both have already demonstrated an ability to pull in buyers.

Spring 14 will no doubt be the biggest and boldest Berlin yet.

Keep up with our show updates via our Twitter account and website, and our full Berlin round-up will be in the July 13 issue.

For up-to-the-minute news and show reports throughout the season, go to www.drapersonline.com

Word on the street: the DOCK (main pic) and Urban Base areas at Bread & Butter (bottom)

NATiVe YOUTH BreAd & Butter

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 35

established short-order menswear label Native Youth is adding a fuller forward-order offer for next season and will show its short-order autumn 13 and most of its forward-order spring 14 range at B&B. Look out for a new 10-piece knitwear collection for autumn, leisurewear featuring gym-ready jersey, and a strong outerwear offer. Orange is key, next to leopard prints and indigo dyes.

Signature prints stick around, with tropical florals and zebra styles. An expanded swimwear offer will also be a highlight, and all with Native Youth’s great three-times mark-up. www.native-youth.com

Aigle BreAd & Butter Aigle’s country heritage vibe is given a light and breezy contemporary reinterpretation for spring. Colour is key, with watercolour shades of topaz, yellow, cranberry, and rose, while chambray and soft indigo blues stand out. Key pieces include lighter quilted jackets in more refined silhouettes, a women’s fishtail parka in waterproof, breathable chambray and a multi-pocket printed cotton safari jacket for men. Wallpaper designs and Liberty prints crop up across womenswear, while men get a desert camouflage pattern. www.aigleboots.co.uk

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DIRECTIONS I BERLIN PREVIEW

MARC CAiN PreMIuM

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 36

tokyo is a source of influence for womenswear brand Marc Cain’s spring 14 collection, with silhouettes including kimono-style and collarless jackets, wide sleeves and obi belts. Colour is key, with tangerine and pink standing out as statement summery shades, alongside paler tones of beige and white. In terms of fabric, materials with a hand-made character such as raffia add interesting textures, although high-tech materials such as netting with a 3d look and neoprene will also introduce a sporty touch. www.marc-cain.com

lYle & SCOTT SeeK

Lyle & Scott celebrates its 140th anniversary this year, marking the occasion with a British-made capsule collection, Lyle & Scott 140. the 11-piece range incorporates the original L&S Ltd branding from 1874, and focuses on the brand’s golfing heritage. the golf theme continues into a new 1960 collection for premium customers launching for spring 14, which references the slim-fits and argyle designs of the original Lyle & Scott golf collections. Yellows, pinks and lilacs meet red, grey and black across product categories including cardigans, jumpers and polos. these two collections will sit alongside the Classic and Contemporary Vintage Lyle & Scott collections. www.lyleandscott.com

CHUNK BreAd & Butter Chunk’s usual short-order graphic collection is joined by a forward-order limited-edition capsule collection for the first time for spring 14, continuing the Star Wars link-up from previous ranges. Quirky repeat patterns, animal prints and fresh camo interpretations all feature, with key items including printed crew-neck sweaters and a push on vests. the forward-order Bike Polo range introduces shorts for spring 14, alongside other hero pieces such as lightweight utility-style shirt-jacket hybrids and casual sweatpants, with anchor colours including vintage raspberry and khaki. u www.chunkclothing.com

Congratulations to all shortlisted and winning companies.

Amethyst Group are proud to support the 2013 PayPal etail awards

If you are interested in finding out why etailers, brands and retailers choose Amethyst Group please contact : Claire Muir - Head of Development - cmuir@amethystgroup.co.uk - 07980791119 OR John Hayward - Business Development Manager - jhayward@amethystgroup.co.uk - 07798646438

Showing SS14 at

SCOOP International Fashion Show 21- 23 July 2013 PHILLIPS GALLERY Howick Place and SAATCHI GALLERY King’s Road London.

For Appointments: JODE LONDON Showroom 15 Hocroft Road, London NW2 2BP T: 020 7431 8716 F: 020 7431 5535 info@jodelondon.com www.jodelondon.com

bErliN prEviEw I DIRECTIONS

SUPREMEBEING CAPSULE

Nice Things has four themes for spring 14. The first, Capri Vacation, encompasses retro chic, inspired by the island of Capri in the 1960s, with the famed cropped trousers taking centre stage. The second is Braided Summer, where the use of natural fibres and colours such as terracotta, khaki and blue evoke a Mediterranean feel.

The third, African Twist, takes an ethnic direction, with a bright palette of raspberry, acid yellow and bright green. Apples and Pears, the fourth story, is inspired by antique botanical prints of fruits and flowers. www.nicethings.es

NICE THINGS BREAD & BUTTER

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 39

Out of Control is the name of streetwear brand Supremebeing’s spring 14 collection, and it mixes and matches inspirations from English and American streetwear, workwear, Ivy League prep, Japanese Americana and even military.

The trend for prints looks set to continue, with a Keith Haringstyle 1980s-inspired geometric pattern and a deconstructed abstract bird of paradise floral design. Top colours for women include burnt orange, hazy blues and warm reds, with vibrant yellows, bottle greens and burgundy for men. www.supremebeing.com

FRANKLIN & MARSHALL BREAD & BUTTER For spring 14, Franklin & Marshall has decided to amalgamate the design of its men’s and women’s collections, which it will show at B&B for the first time in five years. Print and pattern are central, with tropical, Hawaiian florals in a range of poppy colours, while faded, washed-out fabrics create an ombré, dip-dyed style finish. Silk has been introduced for the first time to give a more feminine touch to the womenswear range, alongside new lightweight jackets. Essential items from the men’s collection include photographic prints and a new slim, fashion fit for the brand’s signature polo shirts. u www.franklinandmarshall.com

DIRECTIONS I bErliN prEviEw

DUCK & COVER BREAD & BUTTER

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 40

M MISSONI SHOW AND ORDER The US West Coast is the inspiration behind M Missoni’s pre-spring 14 collection, with California skate and surf influences worked through the range. Street art is referenced via bold colours and patterns across dresses and separates, while slouchy silhouettes create a grunge element. Materials include neoprene, cotton and nylon, with details such as knee-pads and mesh elements emphasising the skater influence. Elsewhere, camouflage is a key print across parkas, cropped jackets and asymmetric skirts. Denim is also a big story, with bleached, washed, quilted and patchwork effects used. www.m-missoni.com

Duck and Cover takes a utility sports direction for spring 14, with a focus on performance fabrics and details. Mesh, Aertex and piqué are used throughout, with ribbed and honeycomb structures adding interest to transitional knits.

Outerwear comes with lightweight rubberized and silicone finishes on cottons with weatherresistant taped and bonded seams, while new softer washes feature on denim, focusing on tapered and slim styles, while darker washes and indigo are key. Navy and industrial greys join blues and military greens as core colours, with hits of yellow, red and green. An alwaysin-stock collection is also available. www.duckandcover.co.uk

BLOOD BROTHER SEEK The latest collection from Blood Brother looks at 1990s rave culture for inspiration, with the heady parties of Ibiza a starting point. This crosses over with the brand’s trademark sportswear feel, coming through in rich fabrication and relaxed fits.

Spring 14’s key print focuses on ecstasy tablets and the variety of logos used on them.

Shades of blue are used across all categories. www.blood-brother.co.uk

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DIRECTIONS I BERLIN PREVIEW

Rough guide to Berlin Plot your route around Berlin’s trade show circuit with our handy map of the city

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 42

Prenzlauer Berg Fennpfuhl Karl-Marx -Allee

Tiergarten

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2. Bread & Butter July 2 to 4 www.breadandbutter.com Airport Berlin-Tempelhof Platz der Luftbrücke 5 12101 Berlin U Paradestrasse U Tempelhof 3. Bright July 3 to 5 www.brighttradeshow.com Alte Münze Am Krögel 2 10179 Berlin Show and order July 2 to 4 www.showandorder.de Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte Köpenicker Strasse 70 Berlin 10179 U Heinrich-Heine-Strasse

4 U

Lichtenberg

U

Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg

1

U

Neukölln

2

Rummelsburg

Karlshorst Plänterwald

Airport Berlin-Tempelhof

Sta dtr ing

U

Tempelhof

Britz Mariendorf

Johannisthal

Lankwitz

4. CaPSule July 2 to 3 www.capsuleshow.com Postbahnhof Strasse der Pariser Kommune 8 10243 Berlin U Weberwiese 5. Panorama July 2 to 4 www.panorama-berlin.com Berlin ExpoCenter Airport Messestrasse 1 12529 Schönefeld

3 Ne Ro ue ßst raß e

er of lh pe m Te fer U

1. Premium July 2 to 4 www.premiumexhibitions.com Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6 10963 Berlin Seek July 2 to 4 www.seekexhibitions.com Kühlhaus Luckenwalder Strasse 3 10963 Berlin U Gleisdreieck

Buckow

Marienfelde

1 mile 2 kilometres

Lichtenrade

Rudow

e traß tels Mit 5

Berlin Schönefeld Airport

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STITCH LONDON SORTED SS14 | 23 & 24 JULY

THE SORTING OFFICE

21 - 31 NEW OXFORD STREET LONDON WC1A 1BA WWW.STITCH-LONDON.COM

Stitch London SS14 will have four clear sections; Menswear, Womenswear, Streetwear and Emerging.

Each area will boast a carefully selected range of brands that showcase the best in the market.

FOR ANY FURTHER ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT JENNAGH DELANEY ON JD@STITCH-LONDON.COM

Exclusive wholesale design and production of luxurious, ladies wardrobe staple tops & tunics, made with the ‘lifestyle’ fiber TENCEL®

The Fashion Photography Specialist

For more information or to request a sample please contact: Danielle Watson - 07772 330618 danielle@sottoesopra.co.uk

www.sottoesopra.co.uk

Product Photography Ghost Mannequins Creative Photography t: 0161 883 0888 e:info@thepointstudio.co.uk

CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here

_ Dominique Taylor

Forever Unique’s creative marketing co-ordinator got her break through interning and hasn’t looked back

_ PB Drapers // JUNE JUNE22 22 2013 2013 _ Drapers 44

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What does your diary look like today? This morning I’m working in the studio, styling autumn 13 accessories for the Forever Unique lookbook. I’ll spend the afternoon selecting images from our autumn 13 campaign shoot and updating the marketing calendar with upcoming content for the company newsletter, blog and social media.

What task are you most looking forward to today? I’m most looking forward to selecting the campaign shots. I co-ordinate the shoot production and often style the campaigns, so I really enjoy seeing the results and picking the shots which best reflect the brand and our product.

How did you get to where you are today? I interned a lot during my studies, and quickly learnt that to get to where you want to be in the fashion industry you need to snap opportunities up, work hard and have a great work ethic. So this is what I’ve aimed to do in each of my roles, and I think it’s got me to where I am now.

What has been your career highlight? Working with InStyle fashion director Amanda Bellan, who was brought in to style our

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Selected collection, has been my career highlight to date. It was great to see such an amazing stylist at work and I loved her interpretation of the collection and the way she shot the product.

Showing it in such a new light really helped us on our journey to high-fashion territory.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I think it’s really important in life to look forward rather than backwards, and so there is nothing I’d change about my career path. I’ve learnt so much at every step of the way and everything I’ve encountered in my career so far has been invaluable in getting me to where I am now and moving me towards where I want to be in the future.

Who is your mentor? Forever Unique design director Seema Malhotra. She is so hands-on and works really closely with everyone in the business. She’s approachable and always there to offer her thoughts, advice and support, which is one of the things that makes working here so great.

What’s the best piece of advice she’s ever given you?

To simply “work hard”.

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CV 2010 Creative marketing co-ordinator, Forever Unique 2009 Assistant buyer, Shop Direct 2009 Graduated Fashion Media and Promotion BA Hons, University of Huddersfield

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How do you see your career progressing? I aim to have a long career in fashion retail, and would love to progress in creative marketing, but I try not to map things out for myself too much. I just take each day as it comes and work hard at bettering my skills and knowledge in the hope it will all pay off.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Work hard, show your passion and enthusiasm,

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share your ideas, believe in your abilities and take the opportunities that come your way, as you’re guaranteed to learn by trying things.

If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? Trend forecasting. I’m obsessed with all things trend related, particularly macrotrends. I’m so interested to find out what trends in society are inspiring the way we consume fashion and how we dress, and I love seeing how this is interpreted in the latest catwalk collections right through to how people are dressing on the street.

It’s fascinating.

Salaries for this position range from £22,000 to £26,000 (estimate provided by Freedom Recruitment)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

1 8

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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

13

Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

National Wholesale Sales Manager at Baccarat UK Ltd, subsidiary of Baccarat, the French luxury brand internationally renowned as a leader in high-end and exclusive crystal products.

National Wholesale Sales Manager - The Role:

_ 45

• Generate sales for a portfolio of Homeware & Jewellery Wholesale accounts to achieve annual sales targets .

• Organize national Merchandising plan to ensure maximum visibility and exposure for the Brand’s Key products as defined with the Head Office and General Manager.

• Propose and prepare Business plans for in-store corners to increase brand identification in Key stores based on agreed budgets.

• Identify and exploit new sales opportunities with existing and potential customers.

• Work closely with the Customer Service Administrator to ensure follow up after clients’ visits. Keep customers updated with the progress of their orders • Develop a yearly Action plan to assist with sell-out in shops, motivate independent retailers, Brand ambassadors and improve store performance following guidelines provided by Head Office.

• Establish and maintain good working relationships with main departments of the Head Office and at the manufacture to enable to address the different issues of the UK Market • Participate to the budget writing, presentation work with the General Manager • Analyse market trends, new business opportunities and feedback to the General Manager and Paris Head Office.

• Make visit and sales reports on a weekly/monthly basis as required • Ensure all customers keep up to date with their accounts, stopping any payment issues or stopping accounts if payments issues arise

Previous experience and proven ability of developing a sales business Experience in Selective distribution environment is compulsory and Jewellery experience would be highly beneficial Excellent sales skills Ability to accurately forecast and understand figures Excellent communication skills Professional presentation

Drapers /

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JUNE 22 2013

National Wholesale Sales Manager - The Candidate:

For more information and to apply please visit drapersjobs.com

Design House UK Limited Design House is a leading manufacturer of ladies wear currently supplying major retailers in the UK.

AssistAnt AccoUnt MAnAger

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.

Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

We are an established supplier with a commercial presence on the high street looking for a talented Assistant Account Manager to join our Womenswear team in London. This is an exciting role that has brilliant growth opportunities with the potential for the candidate to develop within the company. This role will involve supporting a Senior Account Manager working to a critical path, liaising with overseas suppliers and clients to ensure that the critical path is adhered to. Strong admin and organisational skills are required as order information will need to be updated and managed at all times. A minimum of 2 years experience is essential at a similar role. The ideal candidate will enjoy working to deadlines and within a fast paced environment, be passionate, hard working and eager to progress in the fashion industry. This is a great role with exciting potential for the right person.

Please send cV by email to aydin@designhouseukltd.co.uk Alternatively send by post to; Aydin - Design House (UK) Ltd, 21 turle road, London, n4 3LZ.

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.luca@EMAP.com

dh (UK) Limited

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013

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v

Nathalia Selfridges, Oxford Street, London

EXTRAORDINARY ASPIRATIONS? HEAD OFFICE OPPORTUNITIES LONDON, OXFORD STREET There’s nowhere quite like Selfridges. Our unique atmosphere, iconic stores and reputation for exceptional products and impeccable service has made us the world’s best department store. And so have our people. In head office, the talents of our Buying & Merchandising, Marketing, Property, HR, Online, Information Services and Finance teams come together to create the foundation for the unforgettable experiences we offer our customers. Enjoy an amazing experience of your own. Visit selfridgescareers.com to find out more about the roles on offer and to apply.

selfridgescareers.com

In the competitive world of kids’ fashion, talented buyers and merchandisers are vital. With a strong track record of working with leading names in the fashion industry, we’re ideally placed to help you grow.

Our consultants specialise by both product area and location, working not for commission but for the benefit of the candidates and clients they bring together.

To discuss your career or recruitment needs in detail, contact Nicola Wensley on 01932 264059 or email nicolawensley@michaelpage.com

Specialists in buying and merchandising recruitment www.michaelpage.co.uk/bandm

Drapers /

JUNE 22 2013

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What would the fashion world look like without talented kidswear buyers?

What would the fashion world look like without contemporary kidswear designers?

With our big brand connections and market knowledge, we regularly place designers with companies seeking top kidswear designers. Below is just a sample of current roles:

Fashion Coordinator – Childrenswear Brussels • Competitive • MPDP13289748

Design Manager Nottingham • £40-45,000 • MPDP13297710

Childrenswear Licensed Graphic Designer London • £30-35,000 • MPDP13311569

Technical Manager Childrenswear Europe • €70-100,000 • MPDP13273140 To discuss how we can help your career or solve your recruitment needs, contact Liam Humphreys at: liamhumphreys@michaelpage.com or call 020 7269 2435.

Specialists in design and development recruitment www.michaelpage.co.uk/designanddevelopment

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

CATEGORY MANAGER WELWYN GARDEN CITY – £Competitive

TIE CUTTER LONDON Based in modern premises at London Bridge we are an expanding company manufacturing ties and other products for Savile Row retailers and luxury stores around the world. We are looking for an experienced clothing cutter for laying out, measuring and cutting fabric for the making of ties, training will be given however it is important that candidates have experience in the use of an electric round knife and some form of fabric cutting.

Working in a friendly atmosphere with other cutters this is a full time vacancy Monday to Friday. Salaries to be discussed at interview.

BUYER – GENERAL MERCHANDISE COVENTRY – Competitive As a Buyer at Sainsbury’s, you will take ownership of a product range and implement a best-in-class sourcing and selection strategy. Commercially aware and customer focused, you will have significant Buying experience and the capability to influence others, deliver results and maximise profits. Sainsbury’s is a complex, wide-ranging business that depends on intricate sourcing models. As a coach and leader within the Buying team, you will ensure that we identify the most effective sourcing routes, manage suppliers skilfully, minimise products and optimise value. A strong, visible project manager, you will develop and implement business plans, comply with Buying milestones and deliver ranges in line with launch timescales and business expectations.

REGIONAL LEADER UK – £excellent + great benefits The high street is changing and so are o2 stores. Be part of something brilliant. Be part of bringing digital services to life for our customers. Become a true omni channel leader of the future. We’re looking for an inspirational member of our stores leadership team – someone who’s proud of a great retail environment, passionate about the people in it and ultimately, putting the customer at the heart of your thinking, decision making and direction setting. We love sharing new ideas, so would love to hear from you, whether you’ve been into fashion, food, gadgets or goodies, for us it’s all about finding great retail talent that will lead our people to be agile, exciting, consistent and ultimately deliver a fantastic customer experience and a strong business performance.

INTERIM DESIGNER - ACCESSORIZE LONDON – COMPETITIVE SALARY & ATTRACTIVE BENEFITS We have an exciting interim opportunity for an established level designer to join our inspirational Accessorize Design team working across our Cold Weather, Footwear, Kids’ Accessories & Hosiery team.

You will need to be available from August 2013 for up to a period of 12 months to provide maternity cover support.

Accessorize is an exciting area of the business with massive growth potential. If you are an experienced and versatile designer with a unique creativity from a multiaccessories background looking for an interim opportunity, then we would love to hear from you!

WHOLESALE AND HOST ECOM COORDINATOR £COMPETITIVE + BENS – £Competitive + Bens Oasis creates beautifully designed, fashionable feminine collections that are affordable, flattering and aspirational for our Oasis customer. Oasis collections are synonymous with quality, value and unique design. At Oasis we believe that people are instrumental to the success of our business and that we are founded on team spirit and for having a passion for what we do. The Wholesale and Host e com coordinator will work closely with our Wholesale and External Business partners to ensure our sales our optimized across these channels.

You will be supporting 3 main wholesale partners and 3 external business websites with the support of the e com Trading manager.

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

JUNE 22 2013

SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER GERMANY – Competitive Develop advanced, market leading innovative garments and performance concepts (mainly for Outdoor), which improve brand competitiveness through product and technology leadership, enabling adidas to deliver added value to our athletes and customers. You will responsible for effective strategic planning, execution and coordination of selected projects and activities with regards to Engineering and Development of advanced Garments and Apparel technologies. Planning and coordinating short, mid and long term projects and development plans, Including timelines to ensure execution of delivery OTIF.

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As Category Manager for our Fashion division, you will grow the Disney brand through our Direct To Retail partners. A background in Retail Buying, Merchandising or Commercial Apparel is essential, with a full understanding of the Licensed business model. Brand aware and sales focused, you’ll ensure that the products we develop are fit for the fast-paced, ever changing entertainments market. We’re looking for someone who can develop relationships with partners to understand and deliver the ‘Disney Difference’ at retail level. You’ll be adaptable, persuasive and entrepreneurial, with the drive to implement category plans, engage partners and identify additional areas of profitable growth. Contract negotiation and management skills are important – ideally, you’ll have worked in a Fashion category before, with the end-to-end understanding needed to build strong links with Product Developers and Designers.

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WHOLESALES MANAGER LONDON/SURREY – Upon experience Aruna Seth, a luxury designer shoe brand is looking for a wholesale sales manager. The brand is at a pivotal stage for needing a dynamic individual to push strongly for wholesale orders from international department stores such as Neiman Marcus and smaller worldwide boutiques. We’d like to expand internationally to new markets. We are seeking an individual who is HIGHLY SALES FOCUSED with a proven track record in sales.

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior BUYER - LADIESWEAR LIVERPOOL, MERSEYSIDE – £37,000 - £55.000 Shop Direct Group is the UK’s leading online and home shopping retailer, with fantastic brands such as Littlewoods, Very and Isme all under one roof. We have an exciting opportunity to be part of a successful business with innovation at its heart. We are currently recruiting for an experienced Buyer in our Ladieswear Department. We are looking for a strong individual to lead a Buying team to deliver financial performance of the department inclusive of current and future sales, margin, service and stock targets.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641571’

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WHOLESALE ACCOUNT MANAGER CONTEMPORARY CHILDREN’S WEAR AND LIFESTYLE BRAND OXFORDSHIRE, WILTSHIRE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE. SOUTH EAST, SOUTH WEST – Salary will be adjusted to suit the candidate

Flexible hours to suit candidate life style. NEW and highly successful Children’s wear brand is looking for a Wholesale Account manager with strong selling and business development skills to join their small team. Based in the Oxfordshire/Wiltshire Studio, you will be expected to develop new wholesale accounts for the business as well as maintaining the existing account base.

This is an Exciting role with new highly successful award winning hand felted slipper and children’s lifestyle collection. 2013 Bespoke custom design clients include: Toast, Plumo, Habitat, The V and A, The RA, Orient Express, London Zoo, Royal Kew.

MERCHANDISER LIVERPOOL, MERSEYSIDE – £37,000 - £55,000

We are recruiting for a Merchandiser to join our Home and Soft Furnishings Dept to plan and merchandise departmental product ranges to meet both customer requirements. Delivers a compelling product offer to each of the Brands including differentiation where appropriate. To lead a Merchandise team to deliver financial performance of the department inclusive of current and future sales, margin, service and stock targets. You must have strong negotiation, influencing, organisational and communication skills.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641558’

LUXURY STORE MANAGER LONDON, KNIGHTSBRIDGE AREA – Great salary and company benefits An amazing opportunity has arisen for a commercial, sales driven manager to join this luxury ladies wear brand.

Providing the best customer service and exceptional pieces, this Luxury Company gives long term investment in their managers. Stocking ready to wear, accessories and their established and classic accessories, our client has a strong and consistent customer market enabling their style, colours and collections to evolve. A fantastic company to work for coupled with a range of benefits.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640455’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640563’ BUYER – LADIESWEAR NORTH WEST – Up to £40k, pro rata

This thriving company seeks a talented buyer to develop ranges of ladies casualwear. This role will cover a period of maternity leave for approximately 12 months. With a strong buying background the successful candidate will have previous experience of buying ladies multi product garments, specifically casualwear. The buyer will be responsible for planning commercial ranges, and sourcing and selecting appropriate garments in order to maximise sales and profit. This is a rare opportunity to join a reputable company going from strength to strength.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639819’

JACKET/TAILORING DESIGNER NORTH WEST – dependent upon experience

This is an excellent opportunity to work with some of the biggest names on the UK High Street including the likes of M&S. You will be working within a busy design room alongside the other members of the design team, creating on-trend & cost-effective products as well as liaising with the technical teams, in order to drive development of fabrics, silhouettes in line with agreed pricing strategy & customer brief. You must have previous experience in ladies jacket design &/or tailoring for this position, ideally coming from a supplier background as well as excellent fabric & garment construction knowledge.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641310’

SENIOR MERCHANDISER YORKSHIRE – up to £50k This fashion forward high street retailer requires an established senior merchandiser to deliver continuous sales and profit growth through effect control of stock and sales. Previous experience of forecasting, planning, controlling intake and managing stock allocation is essential. Applicants must possess exceptional planning and organisational skills and will demonstrate the ability to communicate effectively at all levels along with strong leadership abilities. Excellent IT skills are also essential for this role.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641364’

PRINT DESIGNER GIRLS’ TOPS BRUSSELS, BELGIUM – An attractive salary which is negotiable - DOE, +benefits package

A successful High Street Fashion Retail Chain is seeking a talented Print Designer to focus on printed tops for their girlswear collection and experience an international lifestyle in Belgium. You will have at least 3 years’ experience designing girlswear graphics and all-over prints, researching relevant fashion trends and constantly updating the latest directions for girls’ graphics and all-over prints. A creative and confident fashion graduate you will be proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop, with excellent hand-drawing and painting skills; passionate about girls’ wear fashion prints and graphics and possessing excellent knowledge of the girls’ wear market on an international scale. For this and other similar childrenswear roles based in Belgium, please check our website.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641339’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642037’

SOURCING / PRODUCT MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive New Silk Road is looking for a Product Development Manager who has experience of sourcing and developing within the high-end designer market. This position will offer the right candidate the opportunity of working alongside the Creative Director, Womenswear Designers and Print Designers to create a luxury, contemporary SS/14 collection. Our multicultural team is based in both London and Shanghai. The Shanghai team, comprising of designer, technicians and manufacturers, impart cultural authenticity, whilst the London division brings a passionate understanding of global fashion.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2638655’

LUXURY DESIGNER STORE MANAGER MANCHESTER CITY CENTRE – Up to £21,000 pa + Generous Store Commission + Uniform Allowance + Staff Discount Hervia has been in the forefront of luxury designer retailing for over twenty years. They have had successful retail partnership with a well known British Brand, as well as a trail blazing Manchester store and ecommerce site that has brought cutting edge luxury designer fashion to the world since 1993. They also currently partner Y3 Yoji Yamamoto in their UK retail store expansion. Hervia is looking for an experienced Manager to run their Flagship Manchester store. This position would involve the day to day running of the store to a very high standard.

E-COMMERCE AND PA FULHAM ROAD, LONDON – Salary based upon experience

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641913’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641993’

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER (ONLINE) OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – Competitive plus Benefits Established in 1985, White Stuff has now grown to over 100 shops and concessions selling women’s and men’s clothing as well as beautiful accessories and homeware. At White Stuff we believe by being different, and making a difference, we’ll make the world a little happier. We put ‘happyness in every stitch’ of what we do and each of our shops supports one of its local charities through the White Stuff Foundation. This is a great opportunity for someone to join the online team as an Assistant Merchandiser. You’ll be responsible for managing the merchandise for all aspects of stock distribution and allocation to ensure stock is available for each store to plan, in order to maximise sales at all times.

PRODUCTION AND TECHNICAL MANAGER BOUNDS GREEN, LONDON – Competitive CHARLI is a new and fast-growing RTW Womenswear brand based in London. Charli is seeking a Production and Technical Manager to work on a full-time or part-time basis at their new purpose-built studios in Bounds Green, London.

This role will involve working alongside the Product Development team and managing the critical path of every item after the design, technical specification and sample approval to completion. This will include the management of resource schedules including work flow planning, maintenance and production metrics.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640146’

Claudia Sebire, one of London’s most trusted high fashion retailers is looking to recruit an experienced E-Commerce and PA to join her busy team based in the boutique on Fulham Road, London SW10. This exciting position has two main responsibilities. First, to manage the stock within the shop, using the stock management system Retail Pro. Secondly to manage the business’s new E-commerce website, which launched last year, which operates using a Magento platform.

This entails keeping the website up to date, dealing with orders, returns and other customer queries. Further to the main responsibilities, the successful applicant will also be expected to deal with general administration duties within the shop, and help on the sales floor if required.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641825’

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CREATIVE PATTERN CUTTER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive New Silk Road is looking for a Creative Pattern Cutter who has experience of working within the high-end, designer market. This position will offer the right candidate the opportunity of working alongside the Creative Director, Womenswear Designers and Print Designers to create a luxury, contemporary new ready-to-wear collection. Our collection is largely focused on simple shapes, constructed in soft, lightweight fabrics so experience of working with silks and soft fabrics is extremely important. The designs are largely driven by placement prints so experience of working within a print based company would be advantageous. This is a great opportunity to work on a cutting edge collection from conception through to catwalk.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2638654’

JUNE 22 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2638653’

WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive New Silk Road is looking for a talented and creative Womenswear Designer to join our small entrepreneurial team to design our lounge, beachwear and Womenswear collections. This position offers the right candidate a unique opportunity to showcase their creative skills. They must be aware of how print and garment design work together on the body, and have a natural eye for colour and balance. The candidate should also have a strong understanding of current trends and must show awareness of the luxury fashion market and fellow competitors. They need to be able to have a good understanding of the production, development and finishing processes used to see a garment from design conception through to finished stage.

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PRODUCTION MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive New Silk Road is looking for a Production Manager who has experience within the high-end designer market. This position will offer the right candidate, the opportunity of working alongside the Creative Director, Womenswear Designers and Print Designers to create a luxury, contemporary SS/14 collection. The candidate would be responsible for the production of our womenswear collection and home collection. Main duties will include but are not limited to: Creating, updating and monitoring the critical path. Overseeing the production process. Ensuring products are produced on time and according to the purchase order. Monitoring the sealing process.

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

The Retail Stack

JUNE 22 2013

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t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

etailPR

AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | TheRetailStack.indd 1 03/06/2013 12:27 AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT Call 0845 130 3535 | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA or visit: www.toptotoe.com BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | GARMENT STANDS METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG

PROVEN FASHION E-COMMERCE EXPERTS

BUY NOW WEBSITES THAT WORK

of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

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Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

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0800 45 11 22 morplan.com

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CREATIVE DESIGN CONSULTANCY

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STEAMERS

HANGERS

By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

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“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs.

Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

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Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

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T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

Halcyon Blue

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

GARMENT LABELS

Turkey CMT

Based in Corum, Turkey.

230 piece machine factory, working in cotton, stitching, ironed and packet goods.

Manufacturer of: Work Clothing - Men’s Trousers - Women’s Skirts - Police/Army Uniforms - Tactical Wear www.ortaanadolutekstil.com.tr www.yiltextactical.com 00905072659184

NEW BUSINESS REQUIRED

GARMENT ACCESSORIES

Rayflex Ltd Est. since 1989 Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

UK Manufacturers of all types of SHOULDER PADS and SLEEVE HEADS Units 6-9, (rear of) 35 River Road, Barking, Essex IG11 0DA Tel: 020 8591 9418

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service?

We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts.

We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact: We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 Tel. 0048 502215339 Fax. 004868 4534854 wojciech.szwabowicz@classic-collection.pl http://www.classic-collection.pl/

www.drapersonline.com

JUNE 22 2013

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

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SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics.

Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities.

Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

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JUNE 22 2013

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Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Contact: 07903368616

Notice board

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL...

• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

01923 800074

salvageliquidator12@gmail.com

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630 JEANS BUTTONS

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

AUTHORISED

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

Always Wanted

Contact Laura 07950310304 or

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Stock wanted

Lollipops Boutique 1

All cash payments and garments de-labelled if required

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713 www.durablefasteners.co.uk

FREELANCE SERVICES

STOCK WANTED

* Customer Returns * * QC Faults * * Samples * * End of Lines *

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

To MESSRS

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

LININGS

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

eaRn ££££’S today Established 1973 Established 1973

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – PAYMENT - Redundant - Overstock - Samples LSS Services 6 Orders - Returns - Unit Cancelled Atlas Business Centre Up to 10,000 units Oxgate Lane required per week.

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Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Joe 07815 355 355 stock@lssservices.co.uk

WANTED

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01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk

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Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494 TO LET Showroom/Office Space available – Prime Location

Offering a small Fashion/Textiles showroom space (250 square feet) in London’s West End Available immediately Contact Tel. 07931 174682

GRADING

DATAGR AF LTD Creative Pattern Cutting

Providing the best service for our clients Commercially aware and bespoke High technical ability combined with creativity makes us the leaders in our field www.fashionworks.biz

07751702952 / 07905965305

Email: personnel@verso.uk.com ATTN: RETAILERS

Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

THE GRADING BUREAU

www.drapersonline.com

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

FOR SALE For sale surplus fabric, knitted, woven & PVC, trims & garments some retro. Plus machines and thread.

Good quality, variable amounts. 07791279083 textilefactorysurplusdr1@gmail.com

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery.

Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

JUNE 22 2013

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Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

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and Preppi.

PEOPLE I THIS FASHION LIFE

Drapers / JUNE 22 2013 _ 56

‘For spring 14, YMC has put together some really nice twists to our contemporary styles’

Nicky Santomauro

Lavenham’s managing director tells GRAEME MORAN about taking a careful approach to collaborations and overseas expansion What can we expect from Lavenham for spring 14? Lots of new stuff. We’ve realised that with global warming and the ever-changing climates, a quilted jacket works very well for periods during the year when you need a bit of warmth, but there are also times when you need a cover-up but don’t necessarily need the warmth. So for our men’s collection we’ve taken the wadding out of some of the styles for the first time. We’re also using some nice sanded canvas with colour-woven check linings.

Lavenham has collaborated with lots of great brands including Kenzo, Eley Kishimoto, Hackett and Edwin. What’s next? We’ve collaborated with YMC for both men’s and women’s for spring 14, which is really exciting. They are a great team to work with and they have put together some really nice twists to our contemporary styles.

Do you think collaborations are important?

I think they are, but you have to be really careful with them. If you do too many, your customer will lose track of who you are. So it’s important to collaborate with the right people and not overdo it.

Which have been your favourites? Certainly Kenzo because they pursued us quite heavily so that was really exciting. I think my favourite last year was with Joe Casely-Hayford.

You have a big international market in Japan, so is more international expansion on the horizon? Every three to five years I like to try and look at a new market, so we went to North America and visited [New York trade show] Capsule and found some key customers across both coasts of the US and Canada. To evolve the brand properly in new areas we need to first of all get to the right top stores, and from there it becomes a trickle-down effect. All the stores on the next tier down look to the top and the market starts growing.

After the US? Then it’s China, which I’m quite nervous about because it has massive potential but you need to get it right. For now I’m just trying to learn everything I can and find the right partner to work with.

What advice would you give to other brands looking at international expansion? I’d say stay strong to your roots and make sure you find an agent or distributor that gets you and totally gets your brand and understands your philosophy. And don’t expect it to be massive instantly – it needs to be slow and organic because that will keep you there in the long run.

Where do you see the brand in 10 years’ time? I’d like to see Lavenham expand and wholesaling in a lot more countries. I must be crazy but I’d like to have our own stores too.

It’ll all take some doing but I’d like to. I think it could be a very busy 10 years.

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Womenswear | Menswear | Childrenswear | Accessories

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