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Bench is latest label on Ashley’s hit list Sports Direct said to be in the running for Americana-owned brand By Victoria Gallagher
Sports Direct is in “serious talks” over the acquisition of young fashion brand Bench, Drapers understands. Mike Ashley’s sportswear firm is believed to be circling Bench, which is owned by Manchester-based brand house Americana International. Americana is being touted by private equity owner Hg Capital as part of an ongoing strategic review of the business by corporate advisory firm Canaccord Genuity. Estimates have previously valued the whole Americana business, which also includes Hooch, at around £100m. It was bought for £190m by Hg Capital in 2007. Annual revenues at Americana in the year to June 30, 2012 were £125m, with a pre-tax profit of £4.3m, down from £24.8m the previous year. Sports Direct is thought to be interested in all Bench’s assets, although a deal could be struck for just the licence, and management is understood to be seeking a significant reduction in the price. “There are some pretty serious talks going on,” one young fashion source told Drapers. Another added: “Sports Direct wants to buy the
Price tag: sources say Sports Direct wants a reduction in the price for Bench (inset)
brand but the Bench owner’s valuation is too high.” A third industry insider told Drapers the Bench acquisition fitted with the sportswear giant’s overall strategy. “They have always said they want to take on JD, plus this would make sense in the wake of the acquisition of Republic,” he added. Another source indicated Sports Direct was one of several suitors. Sports Direct has been adding to its stable over the past year, having bought the majority of both young
fashion retailer Republic and outdoor brand Gelert out of administration, a stake in young fashion mini-chain Pulp and more than half of Austrian retailer Sport Eybl & Sports Experts and Baltic business Sportland International Group. Earlier this week Sports Direct revealed that gross profit increased 19.4% to £199.8m and group sales rose 15.1% to £463.7m in the nine weeks to September 29. Sports Direct and Americana declined to comment.
Selfridges boosts menswear team with trio of hires Selfridges has bolstered its menswear buying team with three appointments designed to bring a broader skills base to the division. The department store has poached My-Wardrobe.com head of buying Eleanor Robinson to become buying manager for menswear. Robinson was at the etailer for three years. Paul Baptiste has also joined as buying manager for accessories. He was previously operations manager at Chelsea lifestyle boutique The Shop at Bluebird. Luke Mountain has been appointed as menswear buying manager, joining from New York department store Bergdorf Goodman, where he was a buyer for men’s designer collections and luxury sportswear. He replaces Adam Kelly, who left for Fenwick this summer. The three will join Terry Betts, who takes the reins as director of menswear next month. Betts was buying manager at etailer Mr Porter and replaces Anita Barr, who also left this summer. The team will report into buying and merchandising director Sebastian Manes. Drapers also understands that Arcadia finance director Katrina Nurse is joining Selfridges, taking over from Mark Raban, who resigned at the same time as Barr. Nurse has been at Arcadia for almost 20 years. No one from Selfridges or Arcadia was available for comment.
Tesco showcases F&F aspirations in London store
COVER CREDIT: NEXT
By Catherine Neilan
Tesco is looking to establish its clothing label F&F as a brand in its own right after launching its first distinct womenswear shop-in-shop in the UK this week. The supermarket opened the doors of its debut F&F-branded venture in its Tesco branch in West Kensington, London, on Wednesday. The 2,300 sq ft space is based on F&F’s international standalone stores. A company spokesman said the move was part of Tesco’s plan to turn F&F into a “bona-fide fashion
label”. The shop has none of the supermarket’s branding and is designed to appear distinct from the groceries business. It also features F&F’s first online kiosk in central London, which enables customers to buy from the extended range while in-store. F&F chief operating officer Richard Collins said the idea was to “create a more boutique feel … focusing on womenswear, while promoting our online collection too”. He added that the “boutique is the next step in the development of the F&F brand”.
Boutique feel: new F&F shop-in-shop is based on its international standalones OCTOBER 26 2013 /
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NEWS
Primark flagship to upsize on Oxford St By Victoria Gallagher
Pop-up petition leader: Roger Wade
Petitions put heat on business rates By Catherine Neilan
The campaign for business rates reform is gathering pace with a number of petitions directed at the Government. The Grimsey Review, pop-up collective We Are Pop Up and the Federation of Small Businesses have all launched petitions in the hope of gaining support for their demands. The petition spearheaded by former Wickes DIY boss Bill Grimsey (bit.ly/1bpmwe0) calls for 2014’s rate to be frozen and revaluations introduced for 2015; the adoption of the consumer price index rather than retail price index for setting rents; that revaluations be made annually, rather than every five years from 2017; and for ultimately a review of the system. Led by Boxpark chief executive Roger Wade, We Are Pop Up (chn. ge/1afmgvc and bit.ly/1dhLPyR) is calling for a three-month relief from business rates for small independent retailers to encourage pop-ups as “a sustainable solution to revitalising our empty high streets”. Wade has also submitted evidence to the House of Commons Select Committee on Business, Innovation and Skills ahead of a hearing on October 29 to discuss the issue. The Federation of Small Businesses (chn.ge/12e8RQE), meanwhile, is calling for a “simple and long overdue” freeze to business rates for firms that do not currently qualify for relief. So far each petition has received hundreds of signatures, but if any of those hosted on Epetitions.direct. gov.uk reach 100,000 signatures the matter will be considered for debate in the Commons. 2
Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
Primark is planning to expand its flagship store at the east end of Oxford Street by more than a quarter in 2016, following strong sales in its first year. The value retailer has signed a deal to extend its store at 14-28 Oxford Street, near Tottenham Court Road tube station, by 40,910 sq ft, taking the total size to 189,760 sq ft. The new space is set to open in the first quarter of 2016. Footwear chain Schuh has also taken an 11,5000 sq ft space in a neighbouring unit, the third major retailer to commit to the area since Primark opened. Office opened a 1,549 sq ft store in August, while Zara is to open a 35,000 sq ft unit nearby at 61-65 Oxford Street. The moves come nearly a year into business improvement district New West End Company’s plans to revitalise the Bond Street, Oxford Street and Regent Street area ahead of the Crossrail train line development, which is expected to
see footfall in the district rise by 36%. Crossrail is due to be completed in 2018. Erol Ezen, a partner at property firm BC Retail, which advised property owner Oriana, a joint venture between property fund manager Frogmore and developer Land Securities, on the Primark and Schuh lettings, said: “[Primark’s expansion] is one hell of a statement and the letting next door to Schuh at a record level of rent for the location underlines retailer confidence.” In the year to February 2013, rental rates at the east end of Oxford Street increased 40%, rising to between £350 and £380 per square foot, according to property firm Jones Lang LaSalle. This is understood to have since increased to around £500 per square foot. Schuh product and marketing director David Spencer said: “Although it is a fairly busy end of Oxford Street we felt that with the regeneration in the area, combined with the upgrading of the Tottenham
Court Road Underground station and the opening of Crossrail in 2018, it could become even busier.” BC Retail has only two units left in the development to let, which jointly total nearly 20,000 sq ft. “With the level of interest received so far I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see rents hit £500 per sq ft for Zone A [the most valuable shopfloor space closest to the window],” Ezen said. International brands, particularly those from the US, are also being targeted by retail property consultant David Kenningham, who is advising New West End Company on its retail strategy. Primark has been increasing its retail portfolio this year, domestically and internationally, and is currently in talks to acquire the Pavilions shopping mall in Birmingham as it plots the opening of a 200,000 sq ft store in the city centre. The retailer is also planning to take over leases from BHS stores in Bath and Canterbury.
International growth spotlighted by Drapers Fashion Summit speakers Top names from New Look, Hugo Boss, Hobbs and Karen Millen will be among the speakers at next month’s Drapers Fashion Summit. The event, which will take place at the London Marriott Grosvenor Square on November 21, takes an international focus this year, offering case studies of companies that have successfully grown their businesses in China, Russia and the US, as well as interactive roundtables to drill down further into key topics. The one-day conference will also explore ecommerce strategies for international expansion. Thomas Pink chief executive Jonathan Heilbron will provide the keynote speech on his experience of growing the business internationally.
Also speaking at the event will be Bernd Hake, Hugo Boss senior vice president for Europe, Middle East, Africa and India, on getting the right strategy in place from the outset. Simon Taylor, head of international franchise at New Look and TM Lewin international director Mark Dunhill will talk about assessing different routes to market. Anikó Kostyál, Mango expansion director for Russia, will offer her take on the best way to establish your business there while dealing with the country’s main challenges. Drapers editorial director Eric Musgrave, who will chair the summit, said: “Having carried out
extensive research with the market it is evident that international expansion is a key priority for the growth of fashion businesses. “Join me on November 21 to receive in-depth insights into exclusive market-specific case studies for international expansion, share best practice in managing a global supply chain and discuss how to attract and retain the best talent at home and abroad.” The summit is aimed at multichannel retailers and etailers, brands and consultancies, lawyers, technology providers, country development agencies and logistics companies. For more details and to book a place, go to www.fashionsummit.co.uk
One year on: Primark’s flagship at 14-28 Oxford Street opened in September 2012
Ark co-founder abandons ship The co-founder of Ark has left just four months after the young fashion retailer was bought out of administration by JD Sports Fashion. Tom Edge was part of the team behind Ark’s launch in 1992 and had been there ever since. JD confirmed Edge is no longer working for the business. It is not known, however, if he will be replaced or what his next role will be. Drapers understands that Ark director and fellow co-founder Jo Edge, Tom Edge’s ex-wife, will continue to run womenswear along with Carlene Clark and Annie Wood. Menswear will continue to be overseen by Ian Chappell, Tomas Lawrence and Lee Wagstaff. Ark entered administration in June, with Begbies Traynor called in to manage the process. One week later JD acquired the business, saving 10 of its 14 stores and 160 jobs. The deal with JD allowed Ark to continue trading from its Leeds head office and retain its management team. Ark, which stocks brands such as Superdry, Fred Perry, Carhartt, Glamorous and Motel, has stores in locations including Derby, Milton Keynes, York, Leeds and Liverpool.
£110m boost for Asos infrastructure By Victoria Gallagher
Asos is stepping up investment in the business, with £110m of funds earmarked to be ploughed back into the etailer over the next two years. Capital expenditure will increase to £55m for the current financial year and again in 2014/15, up from £33m for the 12 months to August 31, with a particular focus on distribution and IT infrastructure. Asos will spend up to £30m expanding its Barnsley distribution hub and will create a “Barnsley equivalent for northern Europe” in the next year, which will service Germany, France and Scandinavia, among others. Asos chief executive Nick Robertson said: “There is a step change in investment now.” Asos revealed this week that
Switched on: Asos continues to add different categories to womenswear
pre-tax profits rose 37% to £54.7m in the year to August 31. Group revenues climbed 39% to £769.4m. Retail sales grew 40% to £753.8m, with the UK arm up 34% and international revenues up 44%. International sales accounted for
63% of total retail revenues, up from 62% the year before. Asos launched in Russia this May and has “seen subsequent strong growth in this territory”. Its Chinese debut is “now in final testing phase and will be launched imminently”. Throughout the year menswear and womenswear both performed “strongly”. Asos continued to diversify its womenswear offer with an increased breadth of petite, maternity and plus-size product in response to consumer demand. “There is momentum, we are definitely seeing strong UK growth,” said Robertson. “This isn’t about macroeconomics, it’s about a fundamental shift in how 20-something-year-olds shop, and the vast majority is online.”
News in brief Al Fayed calls time on Cocosa Luxury Sale website Cocosa is being closed down by owner Mohamed Al Fayed. The site, which was acquired by Al Fayed Group in July 2011 from Bauer Media, will be shut down in an “orderly way” in the coming months. The 45 employees have been told that commitments to them, to customers, suppliers and other stakeholders will be honoured in full. Dr Martens buyout imminent Private equity firm Permira, which owns brands including Hugo Boss and New Look, is reportedly in advanced talks to acquire Dr Martens for £300m. A deal for the familyowned R Griggs Group is rumoured to be set to complete as early as next month, and would include the licence for the Dr Martens brand. In July last year, R Griggs ended talks to sell the business, saying offers failed to reflect a fair value for the brand. Coco de Mer plots revamps Lingerie brand Coco de Mer is planning to develop new product categories and revamp its website and store on Monmouth Street, Covent Garden, following the appointments of Jackie Naghten and Louise Brassey as managing director and marketing director this summer. Naghten and Brassey were hired following a review of the business in the spring. Saturdays’ King duets with Oasis Oasis has signed Mollie King from girl group The Saturdays for its first-ever celebrity collaboration. The 45-piece Loved by Mollie collection has been designed by Oasis’s in-house team, with the singer selecting key pieces. The autumn 13 collection, which will have retail prices from £28 to £350, will be available in 17 stores including London’s Argyll Street, Bluewater, Glasgow’s Buchanan Galleries, Trinity Leeds and Liverpool One. Emmerson to lead Walpole growth Walpole, the trade body for British luxury brands, has appointed former Asos director Michelle Emmerson as managing director. Reporting to chairman Ben Hughes, Emmerson will be responsible for driving the organisation towards its next stage of growth. White Company in transport deal The White Company has agreed a deal with transport firm Allport Cargo Services to manage its global sea, air and freight movements. The retailer’s inbound supply chain system will be streamlined and optimised while Allport will also assist The White Company’s international expansion. OCTOBER 26 2013 /
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News
‘slicker’ website for BrandAlley Private Sales etailer brandAlley has relaunched its website to create a more user-friendly “streamlined” shopping experience. the revamp features a new-look site with more prominent imagery and an advanced integration system to improve stock management. the site, which works across multiple platforms, also provides a search function that allows shoppers to find products across the brandAlley flash Sales and Outlet sections for the first time. the revamp follows the management buyout of the £33m UK subsidiary of brandAlley in January, separating it from existing shareholders News International and brandAlley France, which owned 49% and 51% respectively. brandAlley chief executive rob Feldmann said the buyout had allowed the business to create a slicker, more modern site as it no longer had to use the same aesthetics as the French website.
British fashion is all the rage online clothing was the fastest-growing retail category in online searches within UK retail by overseas consumers last quarter, according to research by the british retail consortium (brc) and Google. Globally, searches for UK clothing rose 26% in the three months to September 30 compared with the same period last year, as queries for UK department stores trailed closely behind with a 25% increase. total retail search volumes grew 12%, but searches for all UK retailers rose 23%, up from 16% in the previous quarter. Smartphones were the fastestgrowing search device, up 90% on last year. tablet searches rose 78%. the biggest rise in searches for total UK retailers came from russia, up 54% on last year. Searches from the Netherlands were up 50%, with South Korea up 39% and France rising 36%. brc director general Helen Dickinson said the figures highlighted the strong foothold UK retailers have overseas. 4
Drapers / OctOber 26 2013
Jarrold invests to outpace rivals
Norwich department store Jarrold has overhauled its ground floor, boosting its menswear and accessories offer. The refit, which took 18 months, is intended to help Jarrold stand out from its competitors. Menswear has grown 10% to 5,000 sq ft, while the accessories section has increased 25% to 4,000 sq ft.
Cheap Monday targets UK wholesale expansion amid overseas retail push By Jill Geoghegan
Young fashion brand cheap Monday is to target wholesale in the UK as part of its wider expansion plans. the Swedish label, best known for its denim range, has around 100 UK stockists including Selfridges and Asos. the business is hoping to grow its mix of online, department store and independent accounts in “larger UK cities”. cheap Monday chief operating officer Håkan Strom told Drapers: “the growth potential is across all categories, we are nowhere near our peak. Our core strategy is wholesale. We still have room for growth with wholesale in many UK cities and believe there is big potential with existing wholesale customers as well as new ones.” He added: “UK customers were early to take cheap Monday to their hearts. From the beginning we’ve had many good customers and have developed a lot since then.” the company is establishing its own team of London-based sales representatives to put “full focus, commitment and attention” on the UK market. cheap Monday has one UK standalone store, at 39 carnaby
Complementary: Cheap Monday says its UK stores are showcases for its collections
Street in London, plus concessions at Selfridges in London and Manchester. retail prices range from £10 for jersey t-shirts to £70 for outerwear. While there are no plans to open more UK stores at present, Strom said the standalones would “strengthen” the wholesale business as it showcases the full collection to existing and potential customers. As part of the company’s international expansion, cheap Monday is planning to open its first
standalone stores in china, in beijing’s two Joy city shopping malls in December. Another 2,152 sq ft store will open in Shenyang, northeast china, early next year. the brand already has a wholesale presence in china via retailers including Lane crawford, Mixtra, true blue, D-mop and Galeries Lafayette’s new beijing store. cheap Monday will also launch a transactional website at the end of this year, shipping to 18 european countries including the UK.
Bonmarché float is vote of confidence in sector By victoria Gallagher
Analysts have predicted that bonmarché’s public listing will be the first of many in the sector next year as investor confidence returns. Sun european Partners, which acquired bonmarché through a pre-pack administration deal in January 2012, plans to sell 40% of the 264-store business in November. Shares will trade on the AIM market of the London Stock exchange, typically home to smaller companies. the deal is being handled by Investec bank and is expected to value the retailer, which targets women aged 50-plus, at £130m. cantor Fitzgerald investment analyst Freddie George said the float came as appetite among investors for clothing companies was growing. He added: “Valuations have gone up across the sector. People are more confident about the retail outlook and more confident about the capital markets.” Independent analyst Nick bubb said: “there are a lot of IPOs in the pipeline, mostly for early 2014, reflecting the big re-rating of the quoted sector and the increasing optimism about economic recovery. “these are dream conditions for IPOs, with potential valuations so much higher than seemed likely a year ago.” Nick Hood, business risk analyst at company Watch, said
Mature market: Bonmarché has 264 UK stores and targets over-50s women
bonmarché’s move demonstrated the strength of the over-50s market. “It might say more about the finances of the over-50s than the fashion industry itself,” Hood said. “It strikes me that this demographic is in better financial shape than its peers.” “the IPO will demonstrate there is a place for well-managed niche retailers no matter how flat the market is.” Figures from Kantar Worldpanel show that in the 24 weeks to September 1, spend by women over 50 on clothing, footwear and accessories for themselves accounted for 41% of the total womenswear market, an estimated
£2.7bn and 6.8% higher than the same period last year. the average 50-plus woman spends £272 on fashion in six months, with 17% of that spent online. In the year to March 30, bonmarché generated sales of £147m, with ebItDA of £9.1m. Since the end of the financial year, like-for-like sales have continued to rise and are up more than 10% year on year. bonmarché chief executive beth butterwick said: “We are confident that our competitive position and loyal customer base means we are well-placed to capitalise on this attractive and fast-growing niche of the retail sector.”
Shows join forces to promote multi-brand retail in China By catherine neilan
the emergence of multi-brand stores in china will receive a boost as two trade shows team up to encourage entrepreneurs into the market. Hong Kong fair the Hub, which held its first edition this August, and streetwear exhibition chicYoung blood are staging a joint show in beijing this weekend (October 25 to 27) featuring international and domestic brands and highlighting the opportunities of multi-brand retail.
Showtime: The Hub held its first edition in August, attracting 100 exhibitors
As part of the link-up, the Hub has created a mock-up of a multi-brand store within the show. the partners will also hold a seminar at this week’s Mercedesbenz china Fashion Week to discuss multi-brand retail, followed with seminars on similar topics at the Hub’s next event in February. the Hub co-founder Peter caplowe said: “We will be honoured if we can play a small part in helping to re-establish this vital element of the fashion business in china.”
News in brief Pop star’s brand ceases trading British menswear brand Farrell ceased trading on October 14, as Drapers reported online. The brand, which was devised by pop star Robbie Williams, launched for autumn 11 but has stopped trading after just two years. Farrell’s standalone store on Earlham Street in Covent Garden, which opened last month, has shut and the website has ceased trading. It is understood all 10 staff have been made redundant. David Jones denies fraud charges Former Next and JJB Sports boss Sir David Jones has appeared in Leeds Crown Court to deny two counts of making a misleading statement, contrary to the Financial Services and Markets Act, and one count of using a false instrument, contrary to the Forgery and Counterfeiting Act. The allegations are understood to relate to a £1.5m loan made to Jones by Sports Direct founder Mike Ashley and a separate loan from JJB founder Dave Whelan between July and October 2009. Jones will stand trial next year. M&S’s Ridley Whittle joins Target Gillian Ridley Whittle, development and buying director for womenswear at Marks & Spencer, is leaving after almost 10 years to join department store chain Target Australia. Ridley Whittle, who started at M&S in March 2004 as head of buying for lingerie and beauty, is the latest in a string of appointments at Target. TK Maxx’s ecommerce director for the UK Phil Wade joined earlier this month, following the appointment of Tesco clothing boss Richard Jones as merchandise trading director and Shop Direct’s Damian Walton as general manager. Pure heads to Shanghai Womenswear exhibition Pure London is to host a Far Eastern edition in Shanghai next year. Pure Shanghai will take place from October 20 to 22, 2014, at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. Pure, which has teamed up with Chinese trade association CCPIT TEX, said the event had been established to help brands build relationships with buyers, shopping centres, agents, distributors and retailers in the region. Bidder aims to bag Lancel brand Swiss luxury goods group Richemont has received a bid for French handbag and leather goods label Lancel from private equity firm Change Capital, and is also looking to offload designer label Chloé. In the year to June 30, 2013, Lancel made a loss of €10m (£8.52m).
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NEWS
Party mood for John Lewis and Debenhams birthdays By Victoria Gallagher
Two of the UK’s largest department store groups are plotting a range of activities to celebrate major anniversaries. Next year is John Lewis’s 150th birthday and it is teaming up with London’s Design Museum to run events and activities in August and September that focus on the retailer’s design heritage and history. Further celebrations are planned throughout the year but details have yet to be released. Debenhams, whose 200th anniversary falls on Christmas Day this year, is also planning a series of events to mark its milestone, including a collection created by some of its Designers at Debenhams line-up. The Limited Edition Collection, due to launch this month, will feature pieces including a gold sequin dress by Julien Macdonald and a Betty Jackson coat. Prices will range from £12.50 to £299 and the pieces will be available online and in key stores. Customers have been able to pre-order pieces since September 23. The retailer also plans to celebrate with business partners, agencies and suppliers by hosting a ball in aid of its charitable trust, the Debenhams Foundation.
Kicking on: new space in Browns of York
Moda In Pelle ups concession count
Debs designs: sketches by Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald
Ahead of the anniversary, Debenhams has doubled its marketing spend for autumn 13, led by a new ad campaign. Debenhams marketing director Richard Cristofoli told Drapers: “You don’t want to become totally introspective – whatever we do [to celebrate] needs to be totally customer relevant.” Debenhams is also working on a £25m redevelopment of its flagship store on Oxford Street, which is due to be unveiled later this year. This will include a new floor, taking the number of trading floors to seven,
three of which will be dedicated to fashion. Debenhams started life in 1813 when William Debenham became a partner in a draper’s store on Wigmore Street, London and renamed it Clark & Debenham. The company now has 240 stores across 28 countries, and in the year to August 31 like-for-like sales rose 2%. Meanwhile, John Lewis’s eponymous founder opened his first drapery shop in 1864 at 132 Oxford Street, London. The business now has 39 stores, and in the six months to July 27 sales grew 6.6% to £1.7bn.
Women’s footwear and accessories retailer Moda In Pelle is to complete an expansion programme next month, during which it will have opened 22 concessions and increased its UK footprint by 65%. The company, which previously had three concessions, has opened new ones at 14 retailers in the UK and Ireland, including four branches of indie department store Browns of York and five Beales stores, as well as Hourstons in Ayr, Scotland, and Elphicks in Farnham, Surrey. The second of Moda In Pelle’s Northern Irish concessions launched last week at Houstons in Enniskillen. The move follows the retailer’s debut in the country in February at Moores of Coleraine. In mid-November it will open the last of its concessions in Dublin department store Clerys. Moda In Pelle retail director Ron Stark said the business, which also has 30 standalone stores, had seen strong sales at the new concessions. In the six months to Jan 31, 2013, Moda In Pelle’s retail sales grew 6%.
Jack & Jones creates new store concept for UK Men’s young fashion retailer Jack & Jones is to launch a new UK store concept in Manchester’s Arndale centre ahead of a national roll-out. The 2,906 sq ft store, which opens on November 14, will have distinct areas for each of the premium, originals, core and vintage collections. Previously product has been grouped by category. Jack & Jones said it hoped to create a department store feel. Allan Nielsen, UK and Republic of Ireland country director for Jack & Jones’ Danish parent company Bestseller Group, said: 6
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Distinctive fittings: the storefit has been trialled in Denmark before the UK launch
“The new store will be used to set an example to our existing shops and will also give us a fantastic opportunity to physically show our wholesale customers what we can achieve in our own retail stores.” The company will roll out the storefit to several new stores in the UK over the next 12 months, but declined to say how many it planned to open during the period. It is believed the new locations will initially be concentrated in the North of England before extending to “key locations” across the UK. Nielsen said the group chose to
launch the concept in Manchester because of the strong retail scene. “We will be surrounded by some of the strongest retailers and brands, which is where we perform best,” he added. “The UK market is one of the toughest in Europe and we will continue to keep growing stronger by developing our brand.” Bestseller is continuing to restructure its UK business, exiting some of its multi-brand stores and opening 15 to 20 new single-brand stores over the next three years for both Jack & Jones and womenswear fascia Vero Moda.
IN-DEPTH
Full pelt: The Soho Furrier has experienced growth; protestors outside Harvey Nichols (inset)
No more faking it for fans of real fur
Sales of genuine fur products are increasing, say retailers and brands two key factors: an increase in awareness and education about the fur market, and the country’s emergence from the recession. Michelle Birkins, owner of premium womenswear retailer Michelle B in Barrowford, Lancashire, agrees. “We’re selling stacks of it,” she says. “Not mink or chinchilla, but when it’s rabbit people close their eyes to it.” A more seasonal approach to fur as seen with a rise in dyed furs and more varied usage on the form of trims may have also led to a rise in demand, according to Mark Oaten, former Lib Dem MP and now chief executive of the IFTF. “Attitudes have also changed,” he says. “It’s true to say a lot of demand in the UK comes from Chinese and Russian consumers, but there is a younger market developing with a different attitude to the whole thing.” However, the UK is still one of Europe’s least fur-friendly markets – it is one of only three EU nations, with Croatia and Austria, to have banned fur farming, and as seen with the recent protests outside
various Harvey Nichols branches, it still provokes strong emotions. A spokesman for animal rights group Peta claims consumers are still “disgusted” by the use of fur in fashion, and argues there has been no domestic increase in demand. “All the major players have no-fur policies in place,” he says. “It’s getting so cheap you can see all sorts of people wearing it around the world, but in this country people still don’t want to see animals skinned for their fur.” However, according to Emily Kerr, sales and marketing director at fur brand The Soho Furrier, issues such as the safety of factory workers have overtaken animal rights concerns among clothing customers. “People have different things to worry about now. The industry has changed a lot in the last few years and animal rights issues have taken a backseat,” she claims. The Soho Furrier launched 18 months ago and now has 25 UK stockists. “People’s response is generally excitement that they can wear fur again,” Kerr says. “We’ve seen very little opposition.” OCTOBER 26 2013 /
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CATWALKING.COM
Words by EMILY NORVAL
Christopher Kane autumn 13
WHEN HARVEY NICHOLS fashion director Paula Reed quit the business earlier this month, the headlines speculated that her departure was a result of anti-fur protests, with Reed accused of being responsible for breaking the retailer’s self-imposed, decade-long ban on fur. Although Harvey Nichols chief executive Joseph Wan denied any link between Reed’s exit and the protests, the publicity has put the contentious subject of fashion and fur back in the spotlight. However, some retailers and brands argue that customers have become less concerned about the use of real fur. Indeed, fur sales are at an all-time high globally, with brands and retailers citing the fact that consumers are better educated about fur manufacturing processes as a reason for the growth. Globally, fur sales have grown 44% in the last decade, according to the International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF). Global retail sales figures for 2011/12 were $15.6bn (£9.64bn), an increase of more than $500m (£309m) from the previous year. Although Europe’s retail fur sales fell slightly from $4.5bn (£2.77bn) to $4.4bn (£2.72bn) in the same period and account for 28% of the global total (the Europe figures do not include Eurasian countries such as Russia, Turkey and the Ukraine), the IFTF says sales in the UK have risen – it doesn’t break the figures down to specific countries. A brief browse online shows just how many of the autumn 13 fur pieces – a key trend on the international catwalks – were picked up by designer-level stockists. Net-a-Porter, Matches, Harrods and My-Wardrobe.com are currently selling fur pieces from brands including Marc Jacobs, Burberry, Marni and Christopher Kane. “Fur is everywhere at the moment – it’s on trend. Designers are endorsing it through their collections and celebrities are wearing it again,” says Pamela Shiffer, owner of the eponymous premium London boutique. “You have to make ethical decisions as a buyer, from fur to leather, and if it’s ethically produced it’s fine. In the UK there will always be controversy, but I don’t see the fur trend waning.” Shiffer, who has allocated more of her autumn 13 budget to fur than ever before, attributes fur’s revival to
HERE & THERE
p JACK WILLS GOES ROGUE Jack Wills opened its 59th UK store at Bluewater. Shoppers were treated to a surprise appearance from Britain’s Got Talent stars Loveable Rogues, who played a live acoustic set in the store. p SUPREME ARTWORKS Streetwear label Supremebeing teamed up with artists’ forum The White Canvas Project to take over a rooftop in Shoreditch for the unveiling of a collection of limited-edition varsity jackets, hand-painted by the forum’s artists. Guests enjoyed hot dogs washed down with rum, while the artists (pictured) created live artworks.
OFF THE RECORD The Drapers social whirl
Ø 8
GOING TO A GOOD PARTY? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to graeme.moran@emap.com
Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
q SOCIAL IN SOHO US company Bronto Software, a cloud-based marketing platform for retailers, held a party at London’s Soho Hotel last week. Guests including Drapers’ Keely Stocker (pictured with Bronto founder Joe Colopy) munched on fish and chips and sipped green cocktails, made in the colour of the brand’s dinosaur logo.
p SHEEPISH SHENANIGANS Woolly fanatics gathered at the launch night of Wool Yorkshire, an exhibition and campaign aiming to promote the region’s reputation as the home of luxury fibres and fabrics. The exhibition, at Leeds’ Victoria Quarter shopping arcade, coincided with the Campaign for Wool’s annual Wool Week and saw students from Leeds College of Art create work to showcase wool in the world of fashion. Guests included Deputy Lord Lieutenant for Yorkshire Stan Hardy (left) as well as a pen of party-crashing live sheep.
KAREN RANGELEY
p ETHICAL EVENING AT ASOS Etailer Asos launched its autumn 13 Asos Africa collection with a private dinner for friends and press last week. Asos sustainable business manager Claire Hamer (pictured) talked guests through the range, now in its eighth season, which is created in collaboration with SOKO, a Kenyan clothing workshop that provides fair and safe employment and training for some of Kenya’s poorest communities.
p LIFE AND SOULLAND Danish menswear label Soulland hosted a dinner to celebrate the opening of a pop-up shop inside The Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea. Blogger Steve Salter joined Soulland co-owner Jacob Kampp Berliner and Drapers’ Graeme Moran for cocktails and duck-based culinary delights.
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EDITOR’S COMMENT
‘When the students questioned the master’
O
n Tuesday morning I enjoyed the delicious irony of watching a self-made billionaire who left school at 16 addressing students at a retailing college that he pretty much created himself. Sir Philip Green was in top form at the Fashion Retail Academy (FRA) as he faced a few hundred students at the institution that is in its eighth highly successful year. Guided by principal Karen Dennison, the FRA has grown from 200 students to 700 a year – its various courses are usually oversubscribed and 65% of its graduates find jobs in the industry. It was a privilege to get an insight into the concerns of the next generation of fashion retail bosses, who often showed little sense of being overawed by the most famous shopkeeper of the age. Green gave them a high-speed overview of his career, which was familiar stuff to those of us who have known him a decade or three. While he reminded his young audience several times that “product is king” in fashion retailing, he did not stress as much as I expected that it helps to know the numbers too. However, his anecdote about how he bought denim chain Jean Jeanie in 1985 for £65,000 and sold it the next year for £7m told its own story. Today, he revealed, his company Arcadia runs 2,435 stores in the UK and employs 43,500 staff. It works with 32 franchisees in 40 countries that run another 590 units. It was interesting to learn that all those foreign partners are served with product that comes into the UK first before being redistributed. Asked what the biggest challenge was in
Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers eric.musgrave@emap.com
running his business, Green admitted it was the logistics of handling each year 150 million garments that are made in 51 countries. The Q&A session between the most powerful man in British fashion and his largely teenage, largely female, audience was entertaining and revealing. The first question, inevitably, concerned his revived alliance with model Kate Moss. Green revealed she had consulted him in the summer about a project to do a line with another retailer. He told her it was rubbish and they decided to work together again. He revealed “she is very engaged and is working much harder on it than last time”. We will see the result next Easter. Green used the meeting for some market research and the FRA audience indicated enthusiastic approval of the return of Vogue’s latest recruit. An insightful student wanted to know why Topshop had chosen to open concessions in Nordstrom in the US when the department store has such a conservative image. Green explained that, among other factors, he felt it
was a company that would avoid the rabid discounting that afflicts US retailing. He also explained that lessons had been learned on presenting Topshop in the stores and a new look had just been installed in the existing units that would be rolled out to the 28 new concessions announced in August. The famously technophobic tycoon quizzed his young charges about their use of gadgets and saw a large number admit they spent five hours or more a day on their tablets and iPhones. He thought this a colossal waste of time, although he was probably pleased that almost all the students use the internet to research their fashion purchases. Surprisingly, a much lower percentage admitted they bought online, so most of those 2,435 Arcadia stores are still necessary. Interestingly, Green said he thought the split of bricks-and-mortar to online would settle at 70/30 over the next three to five years. My favourite question, and the only one that temporarily threw the great man, came from a young woman who asked how likely it was that Arcadia’s plus-size chain Evans would be featured at London Fashion Week. His hesitation strongly implied that this was not high on his ‘to do’ list, but he offered a diplomatic “it’s a challenge, but why not?” Personally I loved the student’s thinking. I left the FRA with the very comfortable feeling that fashion retailing in this country has a very promising future. Those young people, and the many more at other leading colleges, are being given superb chances by bosses like Green and the rest of a brilliant industry that is smart enough to invest in the next generation.
Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com. All Drapers emails follow the style of firstname.surname@emap.com. All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 2763 Associate Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305, Rebecca Soni, 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 2962 Classified Sales Executive Dawn O’Brien, 2959 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Account Director Peter Bruce-Smythe, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Campaign Marketing Executive Kam Sohi, 2870 Head of Brand Hayley Ward, 4276 Production Controller David Ly, 2687 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013
OCTOBER 26 2013 /
Drapers
11
OPINION
Talking Shop
‘Delegation is good for you and your business’
Drapersonline.com stories this week MOST READ Robbie Williams’ Farrell brand ceases trading
Asos launches AccessAllAsos.com
Victoria Beckham moves into the black
Matalan issues profit warning Marks & Spencer womenswear director departs
Angela Ahrendts to leave Burberry Dr Martens deal rumoured to be imminent Buyer Adam Jagger to exit Topman Suppliers see no solution to late payment problem Burberry’s Bailey appointment met with mixed reactions John Smedley in UK production plea
W
ithin a small company, delegation can empower your team and also improve your business. Marketing manager, head of buying, website manager and operations manager may be the varied ‘hats’ of the small business owner, but they shouldn’t be. Your existing sales staff would probably relish more responsibility and giving it to them won’t drastically raise your overheads. The end result should be increased profit through better management. Once you have mustered the courage to delegate to others you should make sure each member of staff is not only aware of their specific role but also feels empowered to fulfil them effectively and passionately.
Rhowen Yoki
Owner of four-store young fashion retailer Fusion in Cornwall
No one will be enthusiastic about their additional responsibilities if there is not clarity among the rest of the team as to who does what. At the onset of delegation, have scheduled feedback meetings to make sure the tasks are being carried out effectively (this will calm your inner control freak). Make sure your team has an appreciation of the consequences of a task being unsuccessfully
managed. They will understand the responsibility they have taken on board, which in turn will enhance their ownership of this role and reinforce the level of trust you have in them. This often results in passion that exceeds expectation. Always make sure the team knows “what it is we are doing and why we are doing it”. Explain what you want to achieve with your latest crazy plan so they are on board. In essence, create a team around you that has different qualities within it. A team that works and thinks like you is not the key to success. Find out your employees’ strengths and weaknesses and delegate so you are able to sit in the sun and enjoy a glass of bubbles without panicking that you need to order more pink satchels.
MOST COMMENTED
Shops are still essential in a nation of online consumers The Drapers Awards: Who is your favourite fashion retailer of 2013? On the radar – Howes & Baum Sizing matters right across the high street John Smedley in UK production plea
Comments from Drapersonline.com ‘The Drapers Awards: Who is your favourite fashion retailer of 2013?’ – I was torn between Zara for the beautiful clean-cut clothes with a sophisticated edge and Topshop. In the end I had to side with Topshop; it would seem like an obvious choice maybe for a 18 to 24-year-old but it is currently the only shop I feel I can buy for absolutely any occasion, whether it’s a quirky on-trend event, a casual day trip, fashionable workwear or getting glammed up. It really is continuing to stay at the top of its game and as long as the prices don’t start creeping up it will be doing well for a long time in my opinion. Jessica Theaker
12
Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
Talking Business
‘Tighter franchise contracts can protect brands’
S
hould dealing with a congested fashion retail market and increasingly demanding consumers not be tough enough, those running fashion retail franchise businesses could be faced with a new threat and one that is unique to the business model. News from across the pond is that franchisees – the individuals or corporates that run single operations within a wider franchised network – are joining together to take action against franchisors who they think are not acting in the best interests of all. In both the US and Canada the likes of McDonalds, convenience retailer 7-Eleven and department store chain Sears have all been hit with high-profile franchise class actions. Many UK franchisors are worrying that they may have to deal with similar uprisings.
Nicola Broadhurst Head of franchising at law firm Stevens & Bolton
Disgruntled franchisees may not even need to win a legal case but simply use it as a platform to deliver real reputational damage. With rising importance placed on ethical behaviour, franchisors need to avoid accusations of sharp and avaricious practice at all costs. It is important to be aware that the UK is a lot less regulated than the US in terms of franchise legislation. This means the franchise agreement is the key
starting point to any action. If this has been tightly drafted it can contractually prevent franchisees from engaging in online forums to air their views, an essential first step in preventing damage to the brand. A franchise agreement can also include specific consents that enable franchisors to read franchisees’ emails and edit online sites used by a franchisee. Perhaps the most important action that can be taken is preventative. In a social industry such as fashion, people need to feel that their opinions are heard. Running regular franchisee forums can help actively manage communications and ensure complaints are aired internally. If individual franchisees are still not happy then franchisors should not be held to ransom and must take strong action to protect their brands for the benefit of all.
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FASHION INDEX
Dan Coen
Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper
I
n the 1980s and 1990s, French Connection was right on trend with its FCUK branding, riding the patriotic wave of Britpop culture epitomised by bands such as Oasis and Blur. However, even though the brand rang true with young consumers at the time, by 2003 the FCUK campaign had lost its momentum. Last month, French Connection reported pre-tax losses of £6.1m in its half-year results and shares have slumped to just 30p. Despite these seemingly poor results, this was a £200,000 improvement on the same period last year and some analysts have suggested French Connection could be making a comeback. However, some challenges remain. The rise of high street fast-fashion retailers on the one hand and the UK’s super-luxury brands on the other seems to have left French Connection treading water in the middle. While the target consumer in the FCUK era was the 20-something urban Brit, this young audience now prefers to shop at Zara, H&M and Topshop. French Connection’s relatively high price point may be another stumbling block for attracting this younger demographic, and older consumers who can afford French Connection often seem to prefer more luxurious brands such as LK Bennett and Burberry. So what’s next for French Connection? First, it needs to decide what it wants to be and whether it is happy being in the middle. It may be that the retailer has become accustomed to the highs and lows of retailing and will just keep trading until it gets back on a high. After all, it is possible that French Connection is just struggling in the same way as other retailers on the high street and will bounce back with the recovery. Alternatively, it needs to reinvent itself and find its own niche. One retailer that has done just that is Whistles. Many attribute the hiring of former Topshop brand director Jane Shepherdson as a turning point for the struggling retailer. Shepherdson, who bought a 20% stake in Whistles in January 2008, has created a sophisticated business that truly understands its customers. There are signs that French Connection may be taking a similar approach. The finance director, head of design, head of production and head of marketing have all been replaced and six new people have been employed for the women’s design team. This, combined with a new marketing campaign and a store revamp on the horizon, suggests French Connection may be on the road to another high. 14
Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 42 – October 14 to October 20, 2013
+8%
-2.5% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE
WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE
Daily data shows that poor weather across the UK on Wednesday saw a corresponding 5.8% decline in retail traffic year on year. In the regions affected by teachers striking, Thursday (strike day) brought a 12% increase in footfall. This equates to a 1.6% year-on-year rise for the Index overall on this day and a significant decline for all the other days. Looking at regional variations, only the Eastern England region achieved an increase against the same week last year.
HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER
Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending October 20, 2013
+5.98% +5.31% Total fashion
Clothing
+5.66% Footwear
It was a return to growth for the fashion index after four consecutive weeks of like-for-like contraction. Menswear and mainstream fashion performed particularly strongly, while more specialist retailers provided some of the weaker results. For more information, email don.williams@bdo.co.uk
DRAPERSJOBS.COM
The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles
The most applied for jobs 1. Design 7.6% 2. Production 7.5% 3. Merchandising 6.4% CHELMSFORD 36% Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)
4. Sales 5.8% 5. Buying 4.5%
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
‘French Connection remains stuck in the middle’
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CHOSEN CHARITY
SUPPORTER
indicator
Autumn fashion What’s selling now? WOMEN’S
MEN’S
Mike Pugh Owner, Aura in Ipswich
Stuart Gordon Owner, Apache in Horsham, West Sussex
“We sell lots of different denim brands, but 7 For All Mankind is our bestseller (retailing at £170 to £180). Like everything, the most expensive brands always fit the best and end up being most popular. Diesel denim (£100) is also a strong seller.”
“The whole Fred Perry range always sells well. It’s done a great job of remaining consistent with price and quality. We’re selling a lot of the polo shirts (£55) and knitwear (£70 to £90). We’re also doing great with Lyle & Scott. Again, it’s the polos (£55) and knitwear (£70 to £90) that are popular.”
Gemma Parker Store manager, Diva in Yarm, North Yorkshire
John White Co-owner, Badger Clothing in Brighton
“The dresses from Sugarhill Boutique are doing really well; the tunic styles (£55) in particular. We’re also doing well with structured dresses from both Hybrid and Tempest, which retail at about £100. It seems to be the pinks, plums and reds that are most popular. People are sick of black.”
“Carhartt is really popular. We’ve stocked it for about three years and it is consistent. We’re doing really well with the Anchorage Parka (£175). We can also see a lot of room for growth with the denim. The Vicious Pant (£65) and the heritagewash Klondike Pant (£90) are doing very well.”
Natalie Pennington Buyer, Hurley in Heywood, Greater Manchester “Sugarhill Boutique is one of our best-selling brands and its knitwear is doing really well for us. Both the swan- and stag-print jumpers (£45) have been popular in the last week. Ted Baker’s bags and accessories have also sold well, in particular the Jaide large quilted tote bag (£150).”
Sukhy Rai Co-owner, Monty Smith in Cheltenham
“Known is a great English brand based in Swindon that sells really well for us. The T-shirts (£30), sweatshirts (£62) and hoodies (£67) are all selling strongly. Monkee Genes is another great British brand that is doing quite well. We have exclusivity here in Cheltenham which is very important too.”
Carhartt
Stefania Marinelli Supervisor, Boutique Planet in Bedford
Shezz Ibrahim Manager, Inocencia in Shrewsbury
“White Stuff knitwear is doing really well (£50 to £55). Superdry T-shirts (from £20) are selling out too, despite the weather. Vila is another little brand doing really well. Its leopard-print jacket is selling fast (£65). Across all brands apple and emerald greens are selling well and purple is really in too.”
“We’re doing well with the Lester polo (£40) from Farah Vintage. Original Penguin also has some great knitwear. The lighter-weight long-sleeve knitted polo (£65) has been a great seller, as has the gilet (£80). Pretty Green has a great two-tone, lighter-weight jacket (£95) that’s selling strongly.”
Audrey Cleeve Owner of Stepping Out in Midhurst, West Sussex “Superdry knitwear (£45 to £50) has been selling really well, especially the longer, baggier styles. LTB is another good seller – its super-skinny Molly jeans (£55) are particularly popular. Angels Never Die, one of our quirkier brands, is also doing well. Its tunic tops (£55 to £95) are a bit more unusual.”
Garth Coverdale Director, Pilot Menswear in Leicester
Tempest
Monkee Genes
Steve Robson Owner of Visual Impact in Ryde, Isle of Wight
Andy Knight Co-owner, The Forum in Swindon
“Ted Baker handbags are doing especially well, specifically the patent quilted totes (£80 to £110). French Connection is also proving popular with its Military Parade Parka with faux-leather sleeves (£165). These brands have been promoted really well and prove to be good style for the money.”
“Known’s baseball-style raglan T-shirt (£35) is the best-fitting raglan on the market. The brand has also just released its Ackee Collection, which I’m hugely excited about. Stussy always sells well, particularly the basic logo sweatshirt (£65).”
Chris Hindley Manager, Gas Stop in Warrington
Veronica Hudson Store manager, The Image in Oban, Scotland “Bench’s warm padded jackets have been selling well. They start at around £60. We’ve also sold a lot of A-Wear tops (£25 to £30). Closet dresses have been doing well too, with its flared skaterstyle dresses the strongest sellers (£40 to £60).”
“Money is an easily identifiable brand. We do well with the Zip Hoodies (£85) and Metal Ape Crew sweatshirts (£70). Crooks & Castles also does well. The Cocaine and Caviar crew sweater (£70) and T-shirt (£35) sell best.”
Sugarhill Boutique
Money
“Superdry is doing well. The Filters Reworked Classic (£50) and Arctic Pop windcheater (£75) are strong sellers. Customers are looking for thicker zip-ups. Voi Jeans’ Vader zip-up hoodie (£45) and Redford polos (£25) are popular.” OctOber 26 2013 /
Drapers
17
ECOMM INDEX
IN CONJUNCTION WITH
Kantar Media analyses the stats on online trading during September ONLINE FASHION VISITORS BY RETAILER
Number of customer visits by retailer category
ONLINE CONSUMER MARKET OVERVIEW
Monthly change in % of internet population and fashion shoppers
RETAILERS VISITED BY CATEGORY
The top five ecommerce sites visited this month by category including month-by-month % change Pure-play
Unique visitors
% increase
Asos
1,648,000
6%
6,165,000
4%
eBay
843,000
3%
Pure-play
4,390,000
4%
Very
801,000
1%
Dept store
3,002,000
0%
Boohoo.com
791,000
22%
Sportswear
2,270,000
16%
Littlewoods
623,000
13%
Supermarket
1,914,000
11%
Footwear
1,343,000
-1%
Multiples
Unique visitors
Value
976,000
4%
New Look
1,814,000
Premium
517,000
21%
Next
1,645,000
1%
Lingerie
440,000
5%
Matalan
1,378,000
-9%
River Island
1,072,000
10%
Topshop
983,000
13%
Premium
Unique visitors
Lacoste
141,000
172%
Ralph Lauren
82,000
-4%
Hugo Boss
75,000
7%
Gucci
56,000
-2%
Farfetch
32,000
-5%
Department stores
Unique visitors
Debenhams
1,565,000
2%
Marks & Spencer
1,047,000
-11%
John Lewis
527,000
-10%
BHS
478,000
60%
House of Fraser
246,000
-11%
Footwear
Unique visitors
Clarks
516,000
-16%
Office
375,000
23%
Schuh
371,000
11%
Barratts
193,000
11%
Kurt Geiger
81,000
-15%
Retailer type
Unique visitors
Multiple
+1% Total internet browsing population
REFERRAL SOURCES TO FASHION SITES
+4% Fashion shoppers
36% Portals
THE BIG NUMBER
Fashion retailers Search Direct
22%
Email Social networks
17%
News & media Other
7% 5%
3%
35
%
10%
1%
Proportion of fashion shoppers that also shopped with rival etailers in September
Change
Change 18%
Change
Change
Change
CROSS-VISITATION ACROSS THE TOP FASHION RETAILERS
Percentage of visitors to one website who visit rival etailers during the same month
BrandAlley
27% Asos
18
Cocosa
45% Asos
Secretsales
The Outnet
TK Maxx
27% Asos
39% Asos
27% Debenhams
23% Debenhams
39% Debenhams
20% Next
25% Debenhams
26% Asos
21% Next
36% BrandAlley
19% BrandAlley
25% Zara
26% Next
20% New Look
32% Next
19% Debenhams
24% Net-a-Porter
24% New Look
18% Matalan
30% John Lewis
18% New Look
22% Topshop
23% Matalan
Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
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export directions
Reversing on the Silk Road
Demand for British menswear is growing in Asia, says Penrose London’s Michael Whitby-Grubb Words by Jill GeoGheGan
B
ritish premium menswear brands are increasing their presence in the Far East as demand for “quality heritage” product rises in Asian markets. Speaking to Drapers after an exhaustive five-month sales trip to 11 markets around the world, Michael Whitby-Grubb, commercial director of luxury accessories label Penrose London, says South Korea, Japan and China are all growing markets for British labels. “The Japanese market is re-emerging; it was in poor shape. It is now starting to see growth and the potential for British brands there is significant. Vietnam and Indonesia are also ones to watch as investment in infrastructure in those regions continues to increase. As the local population gets wealthier the big players are starting to move in.” Whitby-Grubb adds that the popularity of British labels in Asia is due to the quality of the product and the history of craftsmanship surrounding the UK menswear industry: “Asian consumers warm to British brands that are unique, exclusive and not mass-produced. They love the heritage of British labels. The ethics behind brands such as Penrose London are also very important for export markets.” And Whitby-Grubb has seen the demand first-hand. Penrose London launched in South Korea for autumn 13 and will enter Japan for spring 14, and the business anticipates the two markets will account for 30% of the brand’s business in the next 12 to 18 months. However, the brand, which is already stocked by luxury department store operator Lane Crawford in its store in Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong, will not expand further into China just yet. “The large population and spending power means China is of huge interest but it’s still early days for us there,” says Whitby-Grubb. “You have to find the right partners who are going to represent the brand in the right way.” Penrose London, which is stocked in Harrods and Selfridges and independents including Jules B in Newcastle and Pockets in Shrewsbury, was one of 23 British brands to exhibit at the first edition of Hong Kong trade show The Hub in August.
Exporting quality: Whitby-Grubb is taking Penrose London’s pochettes, ties, bow ties and socks to Asia
Whitby-Grubb describes the show as a fact-finding experience and has plans to return for The Hub’s second edition, which will take place at AsiaWorld-Expo in Hong Kong from February 25-27, 2014. Trade shows such as The Hub are essential for the industry, WhitbyGrubb says: “Buyers need to find out what is new on the market and brands need to showcase their product.” Penrose London’s Asian expansion follows in the wake of a wave of overseas growth for UK menswear brands and retailers. Asia is top of the agenda for Arcadia’s menswear fascia Burton, which trades as Burton Menswear London internationally. It makes its first moves into Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia this autumn. Paul Smith relaunched its business in China in May 2012. Its eponymous founder had previously said the Chinese market was “extremely dangerous” due to its high rents and because the majority of the population only want “clothes to cover their bodies”, and the business pulled out of China in 2007 due to undisclosed losses. However, after signing a partnership deal with Hong Kong distribution company ImagineX to open 24 stores in the country by 2017, Paul Smith now has eight stores in China. OCTOBEr 26 2013 /
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FOOTWEAR AUTUMN 13
HIT or MISS
Strong, well-priced product, a smart storefit and great customer service make this a winner
A visit to Bluewater sorted Next Lower Ground and Level One, Thames Walk this season’s footwear Product 9 Next succeeds in taking all the top trends and interpreting them for its pacesetters from the plodders season’s specific customer, while providing good quality
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Words by GRAEME MORAN
pened in 1999, Bluewater is the fourth largest shopping centre in the UK, behind the MetroCentre, Trafford Centre and Westfield Stratford City. Set in a former chalk quarry in Kent, the 330 stores, 55 bars and restaurants and 13,000 free parking spaces help to draw in some 28 million visitors each year. Trying to attract those customers are many of fashion’s big retailers, meaning Bluewater has one of the strongest high street footwear offers all under one roof. Most stores were well stocked with new season product – all the more enticing considering there’s little local competition save for Lakeside over the Dartford Crossing. Footwear trends often move quite slowly, with perennial bestsellers making regular returns, particularly during the winter months when sturdy, weatherproof basics are often favoured over fashion-focused styles. However, autumn 13 has seen most retailers push product forward, with the usual boots and brogues coming in a plethora of updates. Ubiquitous hero pieces for women include catwalk-inspired buckled boots, grungy hardware detailing, cut-out panels, tomboy-style Chelsea boots and sleek pointed court shoes with various heel heights and in a range of colours. Top trends for men focus on classics such as desert boots, robust brogue styles, the resurgence of the running shoe as everyday fashion statement and a focus on new soles to refresh traditional styles. Bluewater’s stores were scored, as with our previous menswear and womenswear surveys, based on their specific autumn 13 offer and in-store experience, including customer service and store design, which was generally of a high standard as Bluewater’s storefits are modern and well-maintained. Points for value considered the quality of the product compared with the competitiveness of its pricing. Stores were visited on Thursday, October 10. 22
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seasonless basics. Grungy boots come in numerous styles, while Chelsea boots and kneehigh options, pointed courts with different heel heights and even the directional neoprene cuffed boot are spotted. Key cut-out boots are here but done in subtler ways. Quality men’s brogues come in real or faux leather, some with interesting sole updates such as coloured foams. Trend-led fashion sneakers are offered in a mix of bold and neutral colours to appeal to different shoppers, and hi-tops with contrast panels in a plethora of options and desert boots are all noted. A wide range of formal and office styles also impresses. Value 9 Once again Next scores well for upping the quality of its footwear offer while keeping prices competitive and comparatively low. Women’s Chelsea boots start at £32, going up to £65, which starts lower than the likes of Topshop but wins on quality. Women’s buckled boots start at £38 and reach £85, while pointed court heels start at around £30. Some shoes do stretch higher, such as the men’s brogues with leather upper and sole for £110, but the quality is great, while a non-leather version at £55 is also good value. Desert boots start at £35, going up to £48 and £60, all well priced. Experience 9 Both the men’s and women’s footwear areas are of the highest standard, with neat fixtures, ample seating and plenty of space to browse. Signs indicate pricing and sizing (ranging from six-and-a-half to 12 for men and extra wide fits for women). Shoes are well placed throughout the store, with displays highlighting hero pieces and mannequins featuring a range of styles. Staff are attentive and approach customers to offer assistance.
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All the top brands and a handful of new names give this store a real point of difference
Schuh
Level One, The Plaza
Product 9 Schuh’s packed offer really does offer something for everyone this season, from smart office shoes, party options and skater footwear. All the popular brands are here, with one of the largest selections of Vans and Converse for both men and women. Brands such as Superga and Saucony are also present, offering a strong point of difference as they are not found anywhere else at Bluewater, while the smarter end of men’s styles is particularly well catered for. Women’s is much the same, with all standout trends present and correct. Buckled boots, strappy minimal heels, some featuring on-trend hardware detail such as metal panels, and chunky-heel pointed courts all feature. Schuh’s own label looks particularly strong with its personal take on many of the standout styles. A bigger sportswear and skating shoe offer also beats competitors and offers a further point of difference. Value 8 A broad price architecture means Schuh attracts an equally wide range of shoppers. For instance, men’s boots start at £65, equal in quality to the likes of Topman, but jump to the £100 and £240 marks for top-end styles. Schuh’s own brand women’s strappy cut-out boots are £75, the same as Topshop’s top-end offer but just about better quality. Vans basic plimsolls start at £43, cheaper than Foot Locker but just beaten by Office’s £42.99, although Schuh offers a better selection of colours and fabric combinations compared with competitors. Experience 9 The organised and wellmaintained store manages to feel spacious with neat displays and comfortable seating areas for trying on shoes, even though it is packed with a wealth of product. Friendly staff are happy to assist shoppers. The windows succeed in showing off the wide product offer and top styles of the season, with clear pricing signs catching the eye.
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Setting the agenda in terms of trends with all the season’s updates and more
Scores highly thanks to great product focusing on top trends and some strong merchandising
A nicely presented and improved product range with top-notch customer service
Topman/Topshop
Zara
Aldo
Lower Ground and Level One, The Guildhall
Lower Ground, Rose Gallery
Product 9 Zara is known for its speedy updates of key catwalk trends and it doesn’t disappoint this season. Balenciaga-inspired cut-out and buckle-wrapped boots, chain-embellished biker boot updates, Chelsea boots with unusual heels or statement metal panels, neoprene cuffed boots, strappy heels, pointed courts and basics such as embellished or plain ballet flats and tomboy brogues all impress. While men’s isn’t so trend-driven, Zara does offer something different alongside the perennials. Desert, Chelsea and military boots, brogues, monk straps, tassel loafers, smart-casual plimsolls and hi-top sneakers are all present, while colourcontrast soles, a wintry wool espadrille and oversized sharktooth soles provide newness. Value 7 Zara is at the higher end of the price bracket in Bluewater, but generally offers good quality materials and well-made shoes. The key cut-out buckled boot is £79 here, just topping the likes of Topshop but the quality is about the same. A Chelsea boot with metal panels on the heels for £59 and a pointed high-heeled court shoe at £25 are well priced. Leather men’s Chelsea boots and desert boots are £69, which is more expensive than the likes of Topman’s options but of a similar or better quality. £59 for a suede brogue and a double monk-strap shoe are good value considering the standard of materials. Experience 8 A clean, organised and wellmaintained interior gives Zara a slightly more premium feel than its neighbours. Although the windows don’t show off the best styles, the placement of shoes inside is particularly strong. Merchandised in outfits, shoes are placed below suitable clothing on neat shelves, to encourage outfit building.
Product 8 Aldo’s product offer is the strongest it’s been for a number of seasons, with trends ticked off and a handful of styles offering a point of difference. A multitude of grungeinspired boots stand out for women, with different types of buckles, embellishment zips and metal panels offering Aldo’s own take on the trends, available in directional or more accessible styles. Dressier evening heels catch the eye, while pointed courts in different colours and snakeskin and leopard prints stand out. Men’s also scores well, with desert, Chelsea and military boots all ticked off. A good mix of smart-casual fashion sneakers and plimsolls is impressive, with fun coloured soles and a new transparent sole design looking great. Heritage-inspired wools are used as panels on sneakers and hi-tops, while smarter tasselled loafers, monk straps and brogues are also noteworthy. Value 7 Aldo does a decent job of balancing quality and price this season, with quality fabrics on well-made shoes at mostly realistic price points. Buckled boots have a wide price span, with styles available for £70, £90, £100 and £110. Knee-high leather boots for £160 seem pricey, but the quality of the leather makes it acceptable. Well-made pointed court shoes with chunky heels in a variety of colours are winners at £60. Men’s desert boots starting at £65 are worth it for a well-made style in suede, but £45 for canvas plimsolls is a bit high. Experience 8 Staff are some of the most knowledgeable, engaging and helpful seen at Bluewater, offering customers different options and pointing out the variety of price points. Fun stickers on the side of shoes highlight key styles. The store itself is neat and tidy with an upmarket feel.
Lower Ground, Thames Walk
Product 9 Topshop and Topman lead the way with trends, balancing directional styles with strong basics. Women’s boots come in numerous cut-out, heavily buckled, contrastsole and chunky-heeled options, ranging from full-on trend-led boots to plainer styles that still reference trends. There are several Chelsea boot styles, with updates including contrast elasticated bandings, plus a more directional neoprene cuffed boot. Pointed courts are updated with ankle straps and cut-outs, alongside casual flats including up to 20 ballet shoe variations. Topman’s offer is just as inclusive, with desert boots in basic shapes and more trend-led versions, including a colourstriped sole and leather panel option. There is a pleasing variety of suede brogues and hi-top trainers, while Chelsea boots, chunky heritage-style brogues and colourful sneakers sit alongside simple formal and office shoes. Value 8 The great pricing architecture means there are key trends to suit every budget, with a balance between quality and affordability. For example, women’s cut-out boots are £45, £68 and £75, while Chelsea boots range from £45 to £62 and over. Men’s desert boots start at lower, more accessible price points and go up to £50, fashion sneakers are £28 or £32, while the store’s interpretation of Converse-like styles start at £24. Experience 8 The store is a pleasure to shop, with footwear areas sleekly designed and well maintained. Windows are appealing, with mannequins featuring a selection of the best shoes alongside a dedicated women’s footwear window. The men’s area is smaller than the impressive women’s section, but both are neat and tidy with helpful staff.
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FOOTWEAR AUTUMN 13
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Racks up points for product but the men’s area feels like an afterthought
A mixed bag of fresh trends and outdated styles. Quality control is also a little slack
Good customer service and a decent product mix, although there is less choice than at rivals
Kurt Geiger
River Island
Level One, The Guildhall
Level One, Rose Gallery
Office
Product 9 Kurt Geiger scores well for ticking off the trends while putting its own spin on styles to offer something original. A wall of chunky grunge-inspired boots includes similar styles to those elsewhere, but also new ones that include interesting hardware, buckle placement, cut-out panels and embellishment. Top styles such as Chelsea boots, wedge-heel trainers and pointed courts are all here, while other updates include a minimal strappy-heel sandal with a luxe, oversized ankle chain. Although the men’s offer is small, major styles include a smart casual brogue boot with camo panels and chunky white sole, and desert boots with colourful soles including a directional multicoloured version. Simple brogues, formal shoes and smart monk straps also catch the eye. Value 7 The prices here are some of the highest seen, but the quality means they are generally of acceptable value. With its range of collections, Kurt Geiger offers entry-level price points alongside more premium pieces depending on factors such as the quality of the leather, leather linings and leather soles. Cut-out boots start at around £80, which is pricey for the standard, going up to £130 or £150. A simple heeled court shoe is £100 from KG or £120 from the Carvela collection, stretching up to more than £250. Men’s desert boots start at £69 and reach past £120 for more upscale materials. Top-quality brogues are good value at £65, and go above £110 for the softest suedes. Experience 6 The store is one of Bluewater’s most impressive, with a large shoe-strewn installation dominating the entrance, with sleek fixtures and fittings inside. Unfortunately, large pillars run down one side and men’s product is merchandised behind them, which is awkward for customers. The men’s area is also less than a quarter of the store – it feels like an afterthought.
Product 7 Women’s focuses on the season’s major boot styles, with cut-outs, grungy buckles and chain embellishment key. Grunge-inspired metal trims and panels update simple boot styles, while an offer of nearly 10 pointed courts in different variations of heel height and colour provides something for everyone. A range of blingy occasionwear shoes is good to see as there was a dearth of these styles in Bluewater, although not much else in the store offers a point of difference. A solid range of men’s styles matches competitors. Desert and Chelsea boots stand out alongside a line of military-inspired boots that are beginning to look dated, having been phased out by other stores. Several options of the trend-led fashion running shoes look good, in bold colour combos or leopard print, alongside plain colour-block options for more conservative shoppers. Interesting foamy cleated soles provide a fresher option on classic men’s styles, which is refreshing to see. Value 6 PU cut-out buckled boots start at £45, which is the same price as Topshop’s most basic style, but Topshop wins on quality. Real leather and suede Chelsea boots at £65 and broguedetailed Chelsea boots at £40 are both good value considering the quality. Men’s desert boots are £50, matched at Topman but of a lower quality here. Cleated white-sole shoes are good value at £50, while the fashion sneakers are £35 – slightly more expensive than Topman but up to scratch in terms of quality. Experience 8 Cut-out boots for women and men’s fashion sneakers are placed at the entrance to each area respectively, drawing attention to hero pieces. Some styles are helpfully merchandised throughout the store, while dedicated footwear areas are strong and well organised, with helpful, pleasant staff and good fixtures and fittings.
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Lower Ground, The Guildhall
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Product 7 There is a pleasing mix of trend-led and classic styles here. For example, the men’s offer includes a selection of more directional options, including coloured-sole shoes and a new bold patterned-sole sneaker, alongside simple basics and office styles. What’s more, there is an accessible spread of price points meaning premium ranges like Poste offer top-end styles alongside more affordable items. A decent enough offer of core brands such as Vans, Converse and Nike is available although other stores beat Office when it comes to the breadth of styles and colour combinations. The women’s collection has a strong dressy evening offer, and most trends are noted including variations of the buckled cut-out boots and Chelsea boots, and pointed-heel courts. Value 6 For brands available elsewhere, Office often matches or just beats competitors, with basic Vans plimsolls costing £42.99, a penny less than Schuh. Men’s desert boots range from £59.99, £69.99 and £79.99, with the level of quality making this good value for money. The most trend-led cut-out buckle boots for women are £85, which seems quite pricey compared with £75 at Schuh and £45 to £75 at Topshop. A pair of Chelsea boots in soft leather is excellent value at £68. Experience 7 A rather dull window also features a large Sale sign, while inside the storefit is bright and modern. Staff are helpful, speedy and greet customers as soon as they enter the store. Signs throughout draw attention to new arrivals, while in-store graphics with celebrities wearing specific styles will turn the heads of Office’s target shoppers. However, the casual section of Vans and Converse-type brands seems to be arranged with men’s and women’s styles mixed together with unisex options, which is somewhat confusing.
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While quality has improved this season, the store experience remains a letdown
Competitive price points and a distinctive product mix are undermined by an untidy store
Although there is an adequate mix of trends, the store’s merchandising fails to excite
H&M
Foot Locker
Dune
Lower Ground, Thames Walk
Level One, The Guildhall
Product 8 What’s positive about Foot Locker is that it stocks a number of brands unavailable elsewhere in Bluewater. Furthermore, on brands that are stocked elsewhere, Foot Locker buys much deeper into the collection, offering colour combinations, updates and variations often exclusive to its store for both men and women. This means it offers a strong point of difference to get customers spending. For example, almost 30 variations of Nike Air Max mean customers will always find options here not found elsewhere. What’s more, exclusives such as the Lacoste Platinum collection can only be found here. The store also keeps track of some wider fashion trends, which is good to see, including the resurgence of running shoes by brands such as New Balance worn as everyday trainers. However, the sports-focused nature of Foot Locker means many of the season’s key styles are unavailable here for both male and female shoppers. Value 7 Quality brands at competitive prices mean Foot Locker is generally good value for money. The exclusives and hard-to-find styles also help set its offer apart. Nike Air Max styles here start at £94.99, which is the same as those at the likes of Office and Schuh, while more premium styles stretch to £104.99 but the exclusivity makes them worth it. Basic Vans plimsolls start at £44.99, just pipped by Schuh’s £43 and Office’s £42.99. Converse styles start at £42.99 and New Balance comes in at £59.99. Experience 3 The store is tarnished by the fact that many shoes are missing prices and several empty spaces on the shelves create a messy and disorganised feel. A display stand at the store’s entrance promoting Lacoste’s Platinum collection has mostly empty shelves, which looks untidy. Staff are reluctant to leave the till areas, meaning customers are left unattended unless they ask for help.
Product 7 Most trends are ticked off with a number of styles on offer, making trends accessible for the Dune shopper. The key grunge boots are here, with cut-out panel, multi-buckle and Chelsea styles and an embellished option with studded and spiked chains. There is a strong offer of practical knee-high boots, and pointed courts come in different variations, including basic low and high heel styles, as well as an embellished metallicheel version. Desert boots in the usual suede and a new leather version with brogue detailing are winners for men, and chunky brogues in navy, beige, black and burnt-out red also impress, alongside Chelsea boots, trainers and casual hi-top sneakers, although the men’s section is much less interesting in terms of product in comparison with women’s. Value 6 Dune reaches the higher end of Bluewater’s prices, but this is mostly justified for some good quality pieces. Solid men’s brogues for £99 is pushing it slightly, alongside higherquality £135 and £149 versions. Leather-lined suede desert boots at £89 are acceptable for the quality, although a leather version at £99 is a bargain. Women’s cut-out buckled boots are £89, more expensive than the likes of Topshop. Chelsea boots are accessible thanks to a price range of £55 to £125. Pointed heeled court shoes come in three options from £69 to £79 and £89, which is reasonable quality. Experience 4 The completely open frontage makes entering the store appealing. However, the offer focuses on blacks and neutrals, with only one pop of red, a couple of burnt-out shades and leopard print, which results in the product looking boring and flat. The Sale section is simply a disorganised pile of shoes, which is a real letdown, while staff do not approach customers.
Level One, Thames Walk
Product 8 H&M’s footwear offer has often lost points in previous seasons for not covering all the trends or doing them badly. However, this season there is more of an on-trend focus and the quality has mostly improved. New versions of key styles, such as a chunky-heeled boot with metal-panelled heel and a velvet Dr Martens-inspired boot are strong move-ons not seen elsewhere, while zip- and buckledetail grunge boots and the key pointed court are spotted in several variations alongside more casual canvas flatform hi-tops and plimsolls. Men’s is not as fashion forward, but must-haves are all accounted for, including desert boots in various colours, real leather Chelsea boots, chunky thick-soled smart shoes and more than 10 types of casual plimsolls. Value 7 While H&M is consistent with its low prices, it lost marks in previous seasons for low quality. But again, this season there is a marked improvement. Basic women’s Chelsea boots are £24.99 and a leather version is £59.99, which is cheaper than the likes of Topshop but close on quality. Zip-detail grungy boots are available at £29.99, but the quality is compromised. Men’s desert boots are a satisfying £29.99, balancing an acceptable standard of make and materials with a competitive price. Basic plimsolls are a step up again in terms of construction and are good value at £12.99. Experience 4 Eye-catching windows highlight hero pieces but are missing prices. Inside, the store is generally tidy although displays are cramped and some areas messy where customers have discarded product. Some areas appear to be forgotten about and a section of women’s plimsolls on a low shelf is covered in dust. Staff don’t offer any help.
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FASHION NEWS
‘Could Ahrendts create iFashion?’ Ian Wright Fashion director, Drapers ian.wright@emap.com
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he news that Burberry chief executive Angela Ahrendts is to leave next year to join Apple as senior vice president of retail and online stores was met with sharp intakes of breath for a variety of reasons. The loss of one of only three women at the helm of a FTSE 100 firm and the suitability of a mere designer, chief creative officer Christopher Bailey, for the top job, were both raised as by-products of the announcement. Another upshot of the Ahrendts and Apple coming together was the suggestion her appointment would somehow immediately give impetus to the development of wearable technology. Speaking to those operating in that area for our Innovation in Fashion report (available at www.drapersonline.com/innovation), I’d be very surprised if that’s even on her to-do list right now. Charli Cohen, founder of the eponymous luxury sportswear brand, is not convinced it’s the future. “On the whole, [smart fabrics are] always going to be superfluous to what the consumer actually wants every day. It’s too kitsch to be widely appealing,” she asserts. Mark Rober, ex-NASA scientist-turned-designer and founder of Digital Dudz, which uses smartphones to add an animated image to a shirt, agrees it’s currently a novelty but adds: “We will get to the point where it is a fashion statement and very customisable. “Eventually, the electronics will become embedded in the textiles as availability increases and cost decreases. This bridges the gap between the available technology and the demand for innovation in apparel.” ‘Eventually’ is the operative word. Even those at the bleeding edge are sceptical of tech crossing over in such dramatic ways anytime soon, so I can’t see Ahrendts taking a bite out of electronic fabrics for Apple just yet.
Short cycle
Trend updates to your autumn stock, delivered quick as a flash Lace & mesh
MQT, £40
Pre-empt the huge spring 14 sheer trend by getting on board with lace and mesh now. Most often applied as panels and usually across simple necklines, the semi see-through aspect is suggestive enough to be special.
camo Stealthily creeping across menswear staples, camouflage is still big for autumn 13. Mostly this comes printed or woven on outerwear and accessories, with sharper blazer styles looking freshest.
Sugarhill Boutique, £14
Mi-Pac, £7.50
Ruby Rocks, £20
Birthday Twins earn their stripes Camper’s quirky sub-brand Twins is 25 years old this year, and is celebrating via a collaboration with German designer Bernhard Willhelm. A derby shoe for men and a cowboy boot for women feature contrasting designs on the left and right shoe, as is the signature of the Twins line. The bold, striped styles are retailing for between £180 and £235 at selected Camper stores, boutiques and online. www.camper.com 26
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Lustrous Finishes The festive period is usually all about full-on bling, but this season surfaces are less reflective and more burnished, with toned-down bronze, silver and gold colours used as both highlights and all-over blocks.
Little Mistress, £19.23
Bucks & Co, £43
what’s neuw in denim
Ruby Rocks, £24
BomBer jackets
Poppy Lux, £15.35
Faces
Key for autumn 13 and spring 14, the bomber has a definite casual appeal grounded in its military roots, but this season bold and patterned styles make the biggest impact, with ethnic prints an important direction.
Hype, both £14.99
Larger scale and more confidently employed than before, faces, both human and animal, are everywhere. Techniques vary from photo prints to artists’ impressions, in the form of cutesy cartoons to full-bleed macro shots.
Schott, £59
Australian label Neuw Denim, founded in 2010, makes its UK debut for spring 14. It offers basics such as cotton T-shirts, dungarees, shorts and jeans in relaxed or skinny fits. Inspired by vintage denim, details such as roughly sewn ‘repair’ stitches on pockets make for an authentic, weathered feel. Wholesale prices range from £18 for a tank top to £61 for men’s carrot-fit and £57 for women’s boyfriend-fit jeans. Contact: 020 7613 5551 www.neuwdenim.com
Brat & Suzie, £13
Dead Lovers, £17.65
Contacts: Brat & Suzie, 020 7739 1414; Bucks & Co 020 7739 7620; Dead Lovers 0161 235 5289; Hype 07723 334846; Little Mistress 020 7436 8332; Mi-Pac 07715 580627; MQT 020 7436 6753; Poppy Lux 01273 911393; Ruby Rocks 020 7436 1817; Schott 07957 247411; Sugarhill Boutique 01273 911393 OCTOBER 26 2013 /
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Voi’s 500sqft store in Phoenix Market City, Bangalore.
With Asia acquiring a huge gap in the market for a structured and constructed denim brand, it has given Voi an enormous scope in this market to grow further, expanding their presence within India.
VOI Jeans, headquartered in Preston, UK has been known for its innovative and cutting edge style. The rough, rudimentary and raw characteristics of the brand allow it to maintain the distinct and unorthodox style that has acquired a strong following from around the world, and earning multiple breakthroughs in the past few years.
Although Voi Jeans were already present in India, selling through the likes of department store concessions, multi-brand stockists and online partners, the only step forward for further growth was their own retail stores. Bangalore was the �irst city to house a Voi retail store, conveniently based in the same
city as their Indian partners Headquarters. This makes it operationally �itting for them to be in the place where their warehouse and manufacturing facilities are housed.
Advertising Feature
Voi Jeans 1300 sqft store in SGS mall, Pune.
From a retail perspective, the market potential is immense, therefore Voi have no plans of slowing down their expansion. With their second store of 1300 square foot already opened in Pune, this has created excitement for the consumer, resulting in an incredible response for sales; placing the brand on the map to lead ahead in the fashion market.
Voi has a signature style which is expressed across the two stores, a blend of an industrial element and modern styling, re�lecting simplicity, yet, making a very powerful statement. The visual merchandising will be followed through in another 6 stores by February 2014: opening in Amritsar, Surat, Cochin, Vijaywada and Mohali. Hyderabad has been named as Voi India’s �lagship store, opening 1st January 2014; extending across 3,800 sq.ft.
The measure of success Proud sponsor of “Supplier of the Year” award
020 7436 0220 www.fashionpersonnel.co.uk
Customer data I Roundtable
Innovative thinkers: guests swapped ideas at Drapers’ roundtable
learning curve
Retailers and digital experts discussed how they are using data in all areas of the business
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Words by DAVID BROOKS Photography by PHIL WEEDON
echnology continues to be the driving force behind innovation in the fashion industry, as brands and retailers strive to analyse the increasing amount of consumer data available to them. during a recent Drapers roundtable discussion at the soho Hotel in London, businesses agreed that using all the data available is easier said than done, particularly as social media platforms grow in both number and significance. Hugh raeburn, head of It at reiss, said current measurements of the success of social media do not provide enough insight because, for example, often tools simply count the number of Facebook ‘likes’. He said: “[Ideally] it’s about
measuring sentiment and how people are feeling about your brand and your products. In the next few years you’re going to see a lot more methods and measures [to do this].” domenico antonucci, fashion sector manager at multichannel software firm K3 retail, said the business is developing reporting tools that take information from social media streams such as twitter and Facebook and integrate it with sales reports, because “what is going on in social media about brands is affecting sales in real time”. Customer segmentation has always been vital to retailers and brands to better target their customers, and a suit that Fits co-founder david Hathiramani said the tailoring etailer has 41 different segments to recognise where shoppers are in the buying process. Hathiramani added: “We
are trying to send them all personal emails at the right time. It’s really important to us to be using all the data we have to not only make their experience better, but to save a bit of time for our teams.” another area where data is helping retailers is stock management. Francesca Herman, head of buying and merchandising at boardsports etailer surfdome, said it forecasts performance through internal systems that monitor sales, stock and web trends. she also worked closely with suppliers during the unexpectedly long summer to make sure it had appropriate stock in the warehouse. “We work with suppliers and try to build relationships with them to try to get them to hold some stock for us or hold it at their risk until a certain date, and then we pull it in or u cancel it if we don’t need it,” she said. oCtoBer 26 2013 /
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Roundtable I Customer data
raeburn agreed, saying reiss is reacting better to changes in weather patterns by “being more savvy on holding back” new season stock if the weather doesn’t correlate with the product. Technology in producT innovaTion is also helping retailers to improve sell-through. murray macadam, european marketing associate at Gore-tex Footwear, said improved technology can help brands and retailers to increase the price of garments: “We saw research recently that found consumers see a technology upgrade to a product without a price increase negatively, as if it might be a marketing ploy. they almost expect a price increase with a technological innovation, provided it adds value.” But Gore-tex Footwear’s uK sales director William Fletcher warned that no matter what innovations are added, the product still has to visually appeal to consumers. He said: “We believe in fashion with functionality because if the shoe doesn’t have style or shelf appeal, no matter what functionality we put in there it won’t be a success.” Herman said that function combined with style is the ultimate combination. “People are willing to pay more for something that looks really good but also performs well, as well as a product that will last for years because it is an investment piece.” Hathiramani said product innovation has been core to a suit that Fits, with the made-tomeasure business introducing new features, such as allowing shoppers to choose any image or photo to be reproduced on the lining of a suit. Businesses are also innovating online when it comes to fit. recently, Warehouse upgraded its virtual fitting tool, metail, in a bid to increase conversion rates and tackle returns, which is often down to fit and sizing. antony Comyns, head of ecommerce at shirt retailer Hawes & Curtis, said it uses virtual fitting room Fits.me, which takes measurements to create a digital mannequin that replicates the customer’s size to “wear” the garment. since rolling it out, Comyns said it has helped reduce returns and new sizes have been added as a consequence. He explained: “You’ve got lots of people putting dimensions into the software package so you learn what you’re not selling [and need to].” Businesses are also looking to evolve their ecommerce offers by adapting to more traffic coming from mobile devices. etail trade body ImrG and management consultancy Capgemini’s e-retail sales Index found that total online retail sales averaged about 15% growth from the beginning of 2011 to the second quarter of 2013. However, excluding mobile, the rate of online growth has declined steadily since 2011. Vintage fashion retailer Beyond retro, which has four uK stores in London and Brighton, is building a responsive design site for mobile and tablet. Its web designer Jason Ford said the functionality of a PC website, such as the ability to hover the cursor over a product image for further information, often does not translate 32
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Jennifer Roebuck, multichannel marketing director, French Connection
David Hathiramani, co-founder, A Suit That Fits
Hugh Raeburn, head of IT, Reiss
Jason Ford, web designer, Beyond Retro
Antony Comyns, head of ecommerce, Hawes & Curtis; Domenico Antonucci, fashion sector manager, K3 Retail
Xander Gibson, regional sales manager, Jimmy Choo
William Fletcher, UK sales director, Gore-Tex Footwear
u
I think web usage and design will change to facilitate mobile use and the demand to shop when convenient
Domenico Antonucci, fashion sector manager, K3 Retail
Murray Macadam (centre), European marketing associate, Gore-Tex Footwear
Gerald Dawson, marketing and ecommerce director, Long Tall Sally
Innovation in Fashion Report
Francesca Herman, head of buying and merchandising, Surfdome
In the fiercely competitive world of fashion, businesses are using innovative technology to get the product right and to tailor customer service across the channels. Drapers’ Innovation in Fashion Report explores how brands such as Bench and Wrangler are using fabric technology to enhance product with benefits such as increased breathability, without sacrificing aesthetic appeal. Technology is also key to ensuring product is in stock across the channels, whatever the weather. The report looks at how retailers such as White Stuff and Matalan are tackling inventory management, restocking and forecasting to get the right stock in the right place at the right time. Businesses are also developing
strategies to better understand their customers. The report explores how Harrods and My-Wardrobe.com are capturing and exploiting data to target customers with more precision. The bricks-andmortar store is also evolving, adding interactive features to make shopping more exciting. The report highlights the forwardthinking technologies Burberry, Topshop and Marks & Spencer are using to lure customers in store. In turn, ecommerce is attempting to give customers the ability to try before they buy. The report reviews the online fitting solutions that give consumers a more accurate preview of fit and tackle return rates. The report is available to download from www.drapersonline. com/innovation
to touchscreen devices, which can leave customers frustrated. Ford said: “the step from desktop to tablet is bigger than tablet to phone because you just change the sizes [in the tablet], so you need to think about how your site changes from desktop to tablet first and then tablet to mobile.” With the continued development of the 4G network, the rise in smartphone ownership looks set to continue, with media agency Zenithoptimedia predicting it will jump from 55.2% to 75.5% of the uK population by 2015. antonucci believes touchscreen devices will be the go-to kit for etail. “there are huge culture changes towards embracing mobile devices. Web usage and design will change to facilitate mobile use and customer demand to shop and browse items when convenient to them,” he said. Consumer adoption of touchscreen technology is also changing the nature of physical stores. Kiosks and iPads are connecting consumers in stores to the wider stock pool of online, which allows businesses to offer more choice while freeing up space on the shopfloor. Hawes & Curtis uses touchscreen kiosk technology to allow it to sell virtually the whole range in small stores. Comyns explained: “If someone comes in looking for a summer item in the middle of winter we can serve them. If they are in the vicinity of a warehouse, we can get that to them the same day.” reiss uses ipads in stores and raeburn said the technology also provides internal benefits for the staff. He said: “We’ve tried to make it flip between a front-of-house and back-office function so store staff can also go on the intranet.” Like John Lewis and ted Baker, reiss also offers free Wi-Fi in store, which requires customers to provide an email address. In the future reiss is looking to leverage this data capture element for a more personal service in store. raeburn said: “Because people are entering their email addresses willingly, the next stage for us is then integrating the data with ‘clienteling’ [using an individual customer’s purchase and shopper preference data to personalise service in store]. so when a customer comes in store and signs on to the Wi-Fi, we know what he bought last time he was here and can then try to develop an electronic version of the black books that most of our managers have for their VIP customers.” In store and across the channels, retailers are exploiting data to ensure they have the right product at the right time and to provide customers with relevant communications and a personalised service. retailers will have to continue looking at these innovations to remain competitive and meet customer expectations. IN ASSOCIATION WITH K3 RETAIL & GORE-TEX FOOTWEAR
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Careers
WItH
How I got here Lisa Blakeley
Web portal Farfetch’s business development manager never shirks from doing her research Interview by JAMES KNOWLES
What is your diary like today? I spend roughly half of the week in the office and the rest of the time out looking for new boutiques or visiting existing Farfetch partner boutiques. As I’m in the office today I’m reviewing which stores and countries I need to visit again before the end of the year and following up with all of the boutiques I met last month at the various fashion weeks. I take care of the UK and new markets such as Eastern Europe, the Balkans and the Baltic states. It’s 14 countries in total, so my travel requires a lot of planning. What meeting are you most looking forward to today? If I’m not travelling we have a weekly conference call on a Monday with the whole business development team, which I always enjoy. Although the team is based in seven countries – Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Denmark and the US as well as the UK – we are very close. However, we aren’t often all together in one place, so it’s important to keep each other updated. We’ll catch up on which boutiques we are speaking to about joining the Farfetch network and which ones are on our wish list to target, as well as share industry news from our respective markets and discuss travel plans for the upcoming weeks. What task do you want to postpone? I have a mountain of expenses to deal with involving a lot of different currencies, so ideally I’d postpone tackling that. How did you get to where you are today? A combination of luck and hard work. I joined Farfetch at the very early stages, as I’d previously been working at footwear company Six London, 34
Drapers / OCTOBEr 26 2013
another business owned by Farfetch chief executive and founder José Neves. It was a small team, so I got involved in as much of the business as possible and did whatever needed doing, which gave me a great understanding of Farfetch. When I started on business development I already had a good idea of the boutiques we wanted to work with, but it has taken a lot of research and constant travel to understand the potential partnerships we could make. What has been your career highlight? Discovering our enormous and amazing Polish partner store Vitkac, which none of us knew existed prior to my trip to Warsaw. If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I would have undertaken more internships during university and spent some time learning another language. As I progress in my career, I see more and more how valuable a second language is. Who is your mentor? The business development team is led by Pascale Colony; she has been pivotal to my success in the role. What’s the best piece of advice she’s given you? In this role you can only do so much via email and online research. You really need to be on the ground, travel, see things first-hand and meet people face-to-face to understand them properly and build successful partnerships. How do you see your career progressing? Farfetch is growing at such a rate. It’s a really exciting time for the business and there is a
You need to be on the ground, see things first-hand and meet people faceto-face to understand them properly and build successful partnerships lot of work to be done here, which I am sure will keep on pushing me and furthering my experience. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? I spend a lot of time in boutiques as I think it’s
CV 2010
Business development manager, Farfetch
2009
Business development assistant, Farfetch
2008
Showroom assistant, Six London
2007
Business development manager, DMB Property Investment
2006
BA (Hons) in Fashion Marketing, Northumbria University
really important to actually see the product up close, even if you are working for an ecommerce business. You really need to understand what you are selling. If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? I spend a lot of time with the boutique owners in my role at Farfetch. I’m fascinated by how they manage to keep their passion and present such an inspiring view on fashion at the same time as dealing with the daily ins and outs of running a business. So in a dream world I’d love to have my own store but, at the same time, I get to see how tough it can be, so this is very likely to remain a dream. Salaries for this position range from £30,000 to £35,000 (estimate provided by CVUK) If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com OCTOBER 26 2013
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Experienced jewellery sales person required. An exciting opportunity has arisen for an experienced sales person to help drive the business forward. Must be motivated in developing new business. Jewellery experience not essential.
Menswear Designer - Fixed Term contract 1 year. london Desired Qualifications: Must have a degree or equivalent of qualification in fashion/design and demonstrate a flair for Menswear. Essential Experience: Must be able to demonstrate several years’ work experience in Menswear design and be computer literate including CAD. Key Tasks Market research Gathering and the proposal of seasonal colour palettes Gathering and proposal of seasonal mood information Initial fabric research and sourcing of sampling and collection fabrics in conjunction with Licensees. Collection fabric approval with Management License. • Range planning working closely with womenswear, agents and sales teams to ensure the collection is coordinated and meets the requirements of the market. • Generation of design ideas for all Menswear apparel products including Outerwear, Tailoring, Shirts, Knitwear, Trousers, Jersey and Ties • Preparation of garment specifications • Attendance of fit meetings • Preparation of the Far East merchandise meeting information • Work closely with Senior Merchandiser and Men’s Licensee Additional Responsibilities
The position will possibly progress to Assistant Manager level. To apply, please visit www.drapersjobs.com and search for ‘2655727’
• • • •
• • • • • •
Presentation of Menswear at Far East Merchandise meeting Approve Far east Menswear products Designing of additional Far East Menswear product including: (Trouser details, Hats, Gloves, seasonal prints, Tie Motifs and other motifs. Conceptualization of seasonal theme booklet Initial merchandising concept for Merchandise meeting/Sales period Liaise with Senior Product Developer & Merchandiser for European seasonal collection To apply please visit drapersjobs.com and search for 2656450
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Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you. Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior ACCOUNT MANAGER LONDON – Competitive Leading manufacturer of Ladies fashion tailoring with our own factories in Vietnam and head office in London. Producing ladies fashion tailoring for both the U.K high street retailers and overseas. Due to further growth, we are looking for an Account Manager. You will be commercially aware, with a proven track record, understand product and market trends, production and critical path management. You will be responsible for key customers, building and maintaining existing accounts and driving new business. Applicants must be motivated, hard working, organised and a team player.
SENIOR GARMENT TECHNICIAN VIETNAM – Competitive Leading manufacturer of Ladies fashion tailoring in Vietnam with our own factories and head office in London. Producing ladies fashion tailoring for both the U.K. high street retailers and overseas. Due to further growth, we are looking for a Senior Garment Technician. This position is based in North Vietnam. This role requires experience in working to high levels of accuracy, a good knowledge of garment construction, grading and pattern cutting. You will be following garment from development through concept to sealing, liaising with our factories reproduction requirements.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656963’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656860’
SENIOR BUYER – WOVEN DAYWEAR & SOFT SEPARATES CENTRAL LONDON – £Competitive + Bens Due to the ongoing success and growth of the Lipsy brand we are expanding our Buying team and we are currently looking for a talented Senior Buyer to join the team at Head Office. In this role you will be responsible for overseeing Woven Day Dresses and Soft Separates (short lead time). To apply for this position you must already be operating at Buyer level and have gained solid experience in a fast paced, high street fashion brand. Essential Requirements: Proven success at buying own area. Previous experience in Daywear, Soft Separates and Woven Day Dresses. Ability to work in a very fast paced environment and to short lead times.
SENIOR BUYER YOUNG FASHION GERMANY – £excellent A forward thinking business has a Senior Buyer position for men’s young teen fashion. Responsibilities will be for the European market. Range planning and developing product with the designers. Negotiating with suppliers and ensuring good margins, high quality and on time delivery. Achieving sales targets and profitability. Managing a small team. You will need to have operated in a senior buying capacity with a multiple fashion retailer. Experience with teen merchandise is required along with a good knowledge of woven product.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655731’
INTERNATIONAL WHOLESALE MANAGER LONDON – Up to £50,000 My client is an established and well known luxury accessories brand that is known for their innovative and distinctive pieces worldwide. With a strong heritage and history behind it, this band is continuously growing and so is now seeking an International Wholesale Manager to develop and expand across various territories internationally, including Middle East and Russia. Language skills in Russian or Mandarin would be an advantage. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656662’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657043’
MARKETING & BRAND COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER – BRITISH HERITAGE LONDON – £40000 - £45000 per annum Are you an experienced Marketing and Brand Communications Manager? Our client is one of London’s oldest tailors, offering bespoke tailoring, RTW & accessories. You will be responsible for assisting in the implementation of marketing strategies with the Head of Group Marketing. This is an exciting opportunity to join a new and growing team in a fresh role, creating a clear and strategic brand proposition and communications strategy across online and retail. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656199’
LADIES KNITWEAR DESIGNER MANCHESTER – Competitive Salary Our client is a leading importer of fashion apparel to many of the UK high street retailers. They are now seeking an experienced Ladies Knitwear Designer to join their business to support their exciting expansion plans. You will be designing commercial knitwear ranges, be responsible for trend research, attending customer meetings and working to briefs. Liaising with internal technical teams to ensure the product is production viable. Working with factories in Bangladesh and China. You must have true knitwear experience.
MERCHANDISER WEST MIDLANDS – Competitive Salary Our client operates concessions in out-of-town shopping centres, selling ladies apparel. Due to continued success and growth they are now recruiting a Merchandiser to join their business . You will analyse how products are performing in stores and make decisions as to which stores a product should be sold in. This role isn’t just about analysing spread sheets; it is about understanding stock and sales data, and then using that information to forecast accordingly. Ideally, you will be degree educated and have exceptional literacy and numeracy skills.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2654586’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2654442’ W
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SPORTSWEAR DESIGNER NOTTINGHAM – up to £45,000 - DOE A unique opportunity to join a company who have changed the way they are perceived by their customers and the market place. Each element of the operation has been improved and now in order to maintain that, this sportswear brand are looking to recruit a designer to inject and maintain new ideas and production methods. Whether it’s jackets, gloves, boots or tops; this company design everything by listening to their customers and take their needs into account when designing and producing their collections. The design and technical rigorously test each product to the limit to ensure it meets the high standards of the loyal customer base.
CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER LONDON – £Competitive
A rapidly expanding global apparel brand is seeking a Customer Service Manager to join the head office team based in London. The role is responsible for managing the global customer service team ensuring all sales are maximised and for increasing engagement and support to customers. Successful candidate will have a strong ability for problem-solving and a tenacious attitude toward providing first-class customer support. They will be ambitious and seek to excel, and be highly motivated and excited about regular engagement with customers and be able to inspire those around them toward the same ethos. We are looking for a person who has: Excellent communication and inter-personal skills, a strong focus on targets and objectives and a strong commitment to delivering the highest quality of customer service.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2656956’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655650’
GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST GLASGOW – Competitive Our Quality Assurance team based in Glasgow are looking for a motivated individual to join us to work on ladies/mens/ childrens clothing and accessory product. We are looking for relevant work experience in a similar role + HND/Degree level qualification in clothing/fashion technology, a thorough understanding of pattern cutting, fabrics, fabric/ trim testing and garment production, experience creating size specifications, leading fit sessions, sealing garment and accessory samples from initial development sample through to bulk production, keeping abreast of current legislation for consumer protection. Some UK and overseas travel may be required.
ACCOUNT HANDLER GLASGOW – Competitive Due to company growth we now have a vacancy within our Merchandising Dept. based in Glasgow for an Account Handler. The main duties will include maintaining a critical path of production/manufacture through the whole process, liaising with overseas offices and day to day communication with customers. The successful candidate must be numerate and accurate, have strong computer skills in particular Excel and be a team player. Ideally we would prefer to appoint someone with supply chain experience however would consider someone from a retail merchandising/buying background.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655983’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655981’
CLOTHING DESIGNER GLASGOW – Competitive This is a Fantastic opportunity to join this evolving design & manufacturing company. Already established as a volume supplier to high street companies selling ladies, men’s, children’s and accessories at affordable prices. The Role, you will be an inspirational Designer with excellent people skills, a ‘can do’ attitude, you will be designing fashion forward & core multi-product for all genders, this role may also require your skills and experience to assist on the creation of the accessories range. The Candidate, you must be both fashion led, and commercial and have advanced working knowledge of Photoshop and Illustrator and a good working knowledge of fabrications.
PRODUCT DEVELOPER GLASGOW – Competitive This is a Fantastic opportunity to join this expanding design & manufacturing company. Already established as a volume supplier to high street companies selling ladies, men’s, children’s and accessories at affordable prices. The Role, responsibility for developing all styles on order for customers., involved in the order process from start to finish – approving & commenting on lab dips, trims, fit, pre-production samples, production samples. The Candidate, previous experience working with high street retailers, commercial eye, product development experience, a broad product & fabric background and excellent communications skills and an understanding of customer requirements.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655985’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655988’
SOURCING ASSISTANT GLASGOW – Competitive An exciting opportunity has arisen for a Sourcing Assistant to join a Global sourcing team. As a key member of the team you will support the Sourcing Managers in order to deliver against the strategy whilst working closely with our Country Offices, Design and Technical Services teams. Key Responsibilities will include Managing and cataloguing reports on new suppliers as well as liaising and coordinating with garment supply base and others ( please see online). You will have excellent time management skills and ability to priorities own workload. You need to be an excellent communicator at all levels and will need to be a problem solver focusing on solutions.
PRICING ADMINISTRATOR GLASGOW – Competitive A well-established design & manufacture importing company has an opportunity within their team for a Pricing Co-ordinator This is a fantastic role for a junior admin assistant ready for that next step! Reporting to the Sales & Merchandising, you will support the sales team by collating supplier & customer prices into master files, dealing with satellite offices, planning and analysing current season vs. last season prices. The Candidate, highly analytical, experience working with a similar product or fashion retailer as well as a good understanding of excel & general data base systems, experience working in a fast paced environment. Full training will be given.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655990’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2655984’
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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
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www.theliningcompany.co.uk
Ahmad Textiles U.K
MERCHANTS OF FABRICS & TRIMMINGS Ahmad House, Downham Street Bradford BD3 9CY West Yorkshire, UK
Tel: 01274 727 069 Fax: 01274 390 407 www.ahmadtextiles.co.uk email: fabrics@ahmadtextiles.co.uk
SUPPLIERS OF TOP QUALITY EUROPEAN LININGS 90 Colours in stock 140 colours available on request Poly-wool suitings, dress & fashion fabrics We buy all redundant/obsolete fabrics & trimmings Immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection Collection from small to large quantities UK & WORLDWIDE COLLECTIONS CONTACT TEL: 01274 727 069 FAX: 01274 390 407 EMAIL: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk
Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk
GB Wholesale Ltd Fabric importers established in 1958
Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more
EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.
shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630
Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.
JEANS BUTTONS
Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE
Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711
The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.
TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••
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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com
Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk
Huma Fabrics
To MESSRS
www.drapersonline.com
Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713
ORDER No.
A/C No.
Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT
Contact: 07903368616
ORDER No. DATE
ARTICLE No.
DESCRIPTION
UNIT PRICE
16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com
www.durablefasteners.co.uk
Notice board STOCK WANTED
FREELANCE SERVICES
AUTHORISED
Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx
www.salvageliquidator.com
WE BUY...WE SELL... Established 1973 Established 1973
From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE
OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING
stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – PAYMENT LSS Services Unit 6 STOCK WANTED Atlas Business Centre We are theOxgate UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer Lane clothing, shoesNW2 and accessories. London 7HJ Tel: 020 8208 0404 EARN ££££’s Today Fax: 020 8208 4414 Mixed bundles, current or past season stock@lssservices.co.uk
• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines
caLL noW for immEdiatE action
01923 800074
theoffice@salvageliquidator.com
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Drapers / OCTOBER 26 2013
ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net
THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs. Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk
Stockroom clearance is our speciality Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.
www.fashionwanted.co.uk
Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376
FREELANCE SERVICES
collections. No minimum / maximum.
buying@fashionwanted.co.uk 01423 872868
ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.
Tel: 020 8361 1444
www.gradingbureau.com www.drapersonline.com
D ATAG R A F LT D
Very experienced sample machinist of 18 years seeks part time or freelance work. Contact Ann 07979595711 Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience. Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service. Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695 Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk. Tel: 0208 886 0494
Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available
www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@EMAP.com
EXPERIENCED QUALITY CONTROLLER
Louise James
Provides reliable, professional & flexible employment as follows: • HOLIDAY COVER • SICKNESS COVER • • MATERNITY COVER • • ADDITIONAL SUPPORT DURING BUSY PERIODS • • UNTIL A PERMANENT ROLE IS FILLED • • FROM 1 DAY TO 6 MONTHS • Tel: 07930 485588 | Email: j1lou@btinternet.com
BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
DESIGN SOURCING PRODUCTION
LEATHER ACCESSORIES
Worldwide garments exporter and apparel Buying House from Bangladesh, looking for retailers, wholesalers and importers from UK. SZ Vision offers expertise and experience in an established competitive network of factories built over 10 years in business, we offer our customers: Reliability, quality, value, product diversity with state of the art facilities.
PRODUCING EXCELLENT, HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR HIGH STREET RETAILERS Creative in-house Designers working alongside an experienced Quality Control Crew assure the delivery of great products at competitive prices backed up by a very professional Back Office and Administration Team
Competitive pricing Quality On-time delivery GUARANTEE Latest fashion trends Ethical sourcing
CONTACT: Sohel Mollah Gha-129, Middle Badda, Ground Floor, Dhaka-1212 Mobile: +8801912001164 Email: szvisionintl@gmail.com Web: www.szvisionintl.com
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT ANDREW OWEN ON MOBILE 07757 362969 e-mail info@accessory-heaven.co.uk website www.accessory-heaven.co.uk
OCTOBER 26 2013
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43
MY FASHION LIFE
Picking a winner is not necessarily about it being a big seller, a brand also has to fulfil other criteria
Rasmus Storm
The owner of Copenhagen lifestyle store Storm worked in a wooden pallet factory before taking risks in fashion
W
Words by Ian wrIght
ere you always into fashion when you were growing up? Fashion has been a real passion of mine since my early teens. I was never obsessed, but always fascinated. I would fight with my parents over a pair of sneakers. What are your top tips for surviving the constant travel involved with working in fashion? Stay healthy and fit. I’m keeping my balance by trying to get enough sleep, eat the right food and exercise every day. Last but not least, it’s important for me to stay at a nice hotel, somewhere I can really relax. I’m also 44
Drapers / OcTOBer 26 2013
always concentrating 100% on doing my work. I want to stay sharp while making my buying decisions, so no unnecessary fashion shows and no parties. Have you ever passed on a brand that turned out to be a real commercial winner? Of course that happens in a period of 20 years. However, for me picking a winner is not necessarily about it being a big seller, a brand also has to fulfil other criteria. If the brand is original, something completely new or surprising, it can be a winner too. Why do you love the fashion industry? I love it most because it’s constantly moving and reflecting the time you live in. The change is
inspiring. I also like the fact that nothing is easy – you need to be sharp and you need to work hard. Sometimes it’s difficult, but the difficulties force you to think creatively and I love the challenge of always having to be a step ahead. The constant risk is like a drug. If you could change one thing about the industry, what would it be? I hate all of the fakeness, but without the fakeness it wouldn’t be interesting, so I wouldn’t change it. In general, though, I would prefer people to be more honest and real. How do you relax after a long day? By picking up some work at the office that I didn’t finish. Work never stops, so it’s not about how I end my day, it’s more about how I start it. The perfect start is to go to the gym, that’s my relaxation time. What one fashion trend do you wish would disappear and why? Young guys who feel the need to look like old fishermen in the middle of the city or mature ladies who try to look like their teenage daughters. But then once again, if it wasn’t for those trends it wouldn’t be so interesting to do something new. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? The best advice I was ever given was from my previous accountant when I had to decide whether to rent our city store location more than 12 years ago. He said if you are happy about the space and the price is OK, then pay it and never look back. So the essence is: think about a decision before you make it, but never look back. If you weren’t working in fashion, what would you be doing as a job? No one would be able to talk me out of fashion as it’s such a big part of my life. However, if fashion didn’t exist, I would probably be in politics trying to help the young generation, to establish them in our society. Tell us something about yourself that no one would expect. Before opening Storm I was working at a company producing wooden pallets. I started on the factory floor after dropping out of school and I worked there for several years – working my way slowly up to the production management. Who would play you in a movie about your life and why? I don’t want anyone to play my role. I want to play it myself. What’s the worst storm you’ve ever been caught in? My birth. For more My Fashion Life interviews visit www.drapersonline.com/news/my-fashion-life