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JUNE 29 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com

London Collections: Men Bigger and brighter – spring 14 highlights from the capital’s menswear bonanza PITTI UOMO Major

menswear trends in Florence / P30

CLOSE-UP The team

behind Selfridges’ Denim Studio / P14

MULTICHANNEL FOCUS

28-page supplement With this issue

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THE WEEK Drapers

COVER IMAGES: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) E TAUTZ; AGI & SAM; JONATHAN SAUNDERS; BURBERRY PRORSUM; CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN; TOM FORD; CHRISTOPHER KANE; RICHARD NICOLL

On the ground at the first shows of the season

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson

The buying season is officially underway for spring 14 and inside this issue we bring you the Drapers edit from the first two major events in the calendar, menswear shows London Collections: Men (p24) and Pitti Uomo in Florence (p30).

We’ve also taken a look at what the kidswear market is doing with our edit from Bubble London (p34).

In this week’s big interview our news editor Catherine Neilan met up with the team behind the exciting launch of Selfridges’ new temple to denim, which offers something for everyone (p14).

We also found time for a chat with legendary milliner Stephen Jones for our This Fashion Life section (p48), and visited the newly relocated Browns Focus store on London’s South Molton Street for Shopwatch (p18).

This week the season continues apace in Milan, so make sure you don’t miss out on our live online coverage and commentary on all the key shows at Drapersonline.com (it’s free for subscribers – just log in using your subscriber number).

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 29.06.13 REGULARS

2_ News Our edit of the week’s top stories, including Internaçionale, Coast, Bestseller and Radley 7_ In-Depth How indies are working together by signing up to July’s Independent Retailer Month 8_ Opinion Comment from Nick Hood of analyst firm Company Watch and Julia Crew of indie Here Today Here Tomorrow 10_ Fashion

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705.

Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

Index

22

Trading info from the UK and overseas, plus footwear sales in the Indie Index 13_ Ecomm Index Insight into monthly ecommerce sales and online behaviour

48

18

36_ Careers We meet Really Wild Clothing Company’s Deborah Davies 48_ This Fashion Life Legendary milliner Stephen Jones on his move to the high street

18_ Shopwatch Will Browns Focus’s shift across South Molton Street to join its parent be a happy relationship?

FEATURES

14_ Close-Up Selfridges’ Denim Studio cost £6m to develop and takes its jeans offer to another level

DIRECTIONS

21_ This Week’s Hero The Duffer of St George Japan unveils its first UK collection for spring 14 22_ The Buzz A weekly look at hot trends and brands, including sheer fabrics

24_ LCM Spring 14 Our round-up of the London Collections: Men that stood out from the menswear crowd 30_ Pitti Uomo Coloured tailoring and prints emerged as strong themes at the Italian menswear show 34_ Bubble London Spring 14 collections created an optimistic mood at the capital’s kidswear exhibition

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 1

_Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief

NEWS

Rent day pushes more retailers over the edge / Trading /

Store closures loom after rent quarter day and bad weather prove final straw for multiples and indies

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 2

By Victoria Gallagher

The struggling UK high street took another blow this week, with a clutch of administrations beckoning as Drapers went to press.

Retailers’ cash flows were hit by rent quarter day, which fell on Monday June 24, as the tough UK economy continued to bite.

Both indies and large multiples were hit, with value fashion chain Internaçionale filing an intention to appoint administrators on Tuesday.

The 150-store chain is understood to have lined up Ernst & Young as administrator. Industry sources said part of the business may be preserved through a pre-pack deal, but warned as many as 40 stores could shut.

Nick Hood, business risk analyst at financial research firm Company Watch, said the financials for Internaçionale looked weak, with sales “trending down for quite a while”.

He said: “The problems of trying to sell the summer collection in the cold weather was a real issue for them, but the finger on the trigger of the executioner’s rifle was rent quarter day.”

Further retailers also hit the buffers as rent quarter day left vulnerable businesses with little available cash.

Drapers understands young fashion mini-chain Ark has lined up insolvency firm Begbies Traynor – which was called

‘The finger on the trigger of the executioner’s rifle was rent quarter day’ Nick Hood, business risk analyst, Company Watch

Feeling the chill: poor summer weather has contributed to tough trading conditions

in to deal with York indie Coggles – as its administrator.

The 14-store business is believed to have struggled in the past year to 18 months, with one source saying: “It’s a tragedy because it’s gone from a small store in Leeds to a larger chain.”

Premium indie Fenton Walsh in Peckham, south London, also closed after eight years of trading, blaming the economic environment and wet summers for its demise.

The store, opened in 2005 by Maria Fenton and Claire Walsh, posted a note on its door which blamed “four years of an unstable economic climate, three years of badly planned and managed road works, two years of cold, wet summers and one unsympathetic government which doesn’t support the lifeblood of the high street: small independent shops.”

One source told Drapers: “Rent quarter day, business rates and the weather have destroyed this season – this is why there will be further casualties.”

International firms were not immune to the British economy’s woes, with Danish brand house Bestseller planning an overhaul of its UK retail business.

Bestseller’s UK and Ireland manager Allan Nielsen said he had conducted a review of all stores and was now closing its loss-making shops. He noted the UK market was “very tough”.

Bestseller is set to close around five of its multi-brand stores including its Oxford Street unit, but it will open 15 to 20 new stores in the medium term.

For more details on all these stories and other recent administrations, visit www.drapersonline.com

/ Accessories /

Radley restructures ahead of international expansion

By Catherine Neilan

www.drapersonline.com

News in Numbers

18,100

INTERNATIONAL VISITORS ATTENDING PITTI UOMO SPRING 14

300 VOLUNTEER PHOTOGRAPHERS TAKING PART IN SELFRIDGES’ DENIM LOVERS CAMPAIGN

On growth path: German launch this year

The changes prefaced “the next step” in Radley’s development, Simonet told Drapers. “Now is the time for us to start expanding internationally – that is my background. I deeply believe Radley can be a big global brand,” he said.

The brand is already in Japan and plans to launch in Germany this year.

But Simonet said it was essential to reinforce Radley’s British base first, with wholesale orders for autumn 13 up 15%. He added: “International is important for our growth, but the UK market is critical.”

£100m

RUMOURED SALE VALUE FOR SHIRT RETAILER TM LEWIN

30 NUMBER OF OUT-OF-TOWN SHOPS NIKE PLANS TO OPEN IN THE NEXT TWO YEARS

/ Womenswear /

Lovelock: business as usual for Coast Derek Lovelock has said it will be business as usual for occasionwear retailer Coast, despite the departure of managing director Margaret McDonald just weeks into the demerger from Aurora Fashions.

As revealed by Drapers earlier this week, McDonald is leaving the business at the end of July to join US lingerie brand Victoria’s Secret as president.

Former Aurora chairman Lovelock is stepping in to oversee Coast alongside deputy managing director Jo McWilliams and Pall Olafsson, chief financial officer.

There are no immediate plans to replace McDonald.

Lovelock told Drapers the change in management would not throw Coast off course as it continues to separate from former stablemates Oasis and Warehouse, which now come under the umbrella of Fresh Channel. It is thought the split prefaces a sale of the occasionwear specialist.

Lovelock said: “Coast has a clear strategy in place and a strong management team, perfectly capable of delivering the brand operating plan.

“I will naturally be spending more time in the brand. However, this will not affect the demerger, which is running slightly ahead of our original time frame.”

£30,000 AWARDED TO EUROPEAN WOOLMARK PRIZE WINNER SIBLING

68%

INCREASE IN SPEND BY THAI TOURISTS VISITING UK IN JANUARY TO MAY 2013

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 3

Radley’s new chief executive has pledged to get the accessories business back on track with a major restructure of the senior management team.

Xavier Simonet, who joined this spring from underwear business DB Apparel Group, acknowledged Radley had experienced “difficult times”, including the surprise exit of former chief executive Sven Gaede and chairman Paul Mason in January 2012.

The departures have continued, with former brand director Lorraine Pringle leaving earlier this month and wholesale director Jonathan Frost departing “with immediate effect” last week. Commercial director Paul Donoghue is set to leave in September.

In their wake Simonet has created a swathe of new roles that will report into him. Buying and merchandising head Naomi Halliday has joined the board as buying and merchandising director, while Lucie Watkins, formerly head of visual merchandising, has been made head of creative services.

Marketing director Nick Vance is now marketing and ecommerce director while consultant Alessandro Petrelli becomes head of international sales.

The business has also hired East’s Jayne Worden as chief financial officer.

DEEPER DISCOUNTS HOW THE HIGH STREET HAS REACHED RECORD HIGH REDUCTIONS

/

Trading /

NEWS

New retail review sparks dispute over high street strategy

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 4

By Catherine Neilan

A war of words has emerged between two so-called saviours of the high street after Mary Portas hit back at claims her approach was “flashy” and ineffective.

Last week ex-Iceland and Focus DIY chief executive Bill Grimsey announced he was conducting a new review into town centres, telling Drapers it would be more “radical” than the Portas Review.

Grimsey said his review would consider “the structural changes that retail has been undergoing, which I don’t think was evidenced enough when Mary Portas carried out her review”.

Grimsey went on to criticise the Portas Review’s short-term view and its “sentimental focus on shopping”, although he credited her with raising the profile of the issue. He also slammed the Government for being “only interested in headline grabbing”.

/

While the new review would draw on some of Portas’s recommendations, Grimsey’s would go deeper to the core of the problems, he claimed.

He plans to put forward a series of recommendations, including legislative change, ways to address thorny issues such as parking and business rates, and propose building more accommodation, leisure and cultural centres “that have vibrancy about them”.

‘It isn’t helpful to knock the efforts of communities fighting for their high street’ Mary Portas, retail adviser

All proposals would be commercial, he added, but retail would not be the focal point of town centres in future.

But the self-styled Queen of Shops hit back at his comments. Portas said: “While I welcome Bill Grimsey’s input to the fight for the regeneration of the high street, all his points are covered in my review.

“It isn’t very helpful to knock the efforts of communities today who are not living under ‘false hope’ but are actually making great changes and fighting for their high street,” she said.

“If Bill Grimsey reads my report properly, he will see that I talk about a new business model that is required for the high street. It is about a multifunctional high street across learning, health and well-being, housing and some retail. It is not a failed model.”

Portas agreed that the Government “has been slow to respond”, saying she would “continue to fight for policy change, like exceptional sign-off on out of town, business rates, planning and parking.”

She added: “I believe there is a future for the high street, albeit very different from the one we have today. Try telling the people of Helston their high street is dead. They’ve reduced their vacancy rate from 13% to 4.5% in one year.”

What’s in a name? Drapers compares the two approaches at www.drapersonline.com/blogs

Difference of opinion: Bill Grimsey (inset) criticised Mary Portas’s (main pic) review

Young fashion /

USC to open Oxford Street flagship in 2014

By Victoria Gallagher

USC will make its first footprint on London’s most famous shopping street with the launch of a store on Oxford Street next year.

The young fashion chain will take a unit located in The Plaza at 116-128 Oxford Street, which was previously occupied by USC’s owner, sportswear retailer Sports Direct. A source close to the situation told Drapers Sports Direct does occasionally swap stores around.

Buyers from USC have already approached brands to supply the new store. It is understood the 17,000 sq ft store will open in February next year.

Correspondence seen by Drapers said the store will act as a “London flagship”, hosting a selection of “luxury denim, footwear and lifestyle brands”.

Rebranding: parent company Sports Direct may switch the names of some USC and Republic stores

The retailer has historically been more prominent in the North of England, with relatively few stores in the South. Branches in Uxbridge and Watford are the retailer’s closest locations to central London.

USC did not respond to requests for comment about the store opening.

Drapers also understands that after Sports Direct’s purchase of young fashion chain Republic in February, some of Republic’s store portfolio is being rebranded to USC. It was previously thought that all USC stores would be rebranded as Republic in the wake of the purchase. However, a spokesperson for Sports Direct said any rebranding would happen on a case-bycase basis if one retailer’s branding was stronger in a particular location.

International /

Pentland posts 43% Bric growth

Picture caption style three lines deep please Picture caption style three lines

Pentland Group has expanded its headcount to more than 2,000 after sales rose 43% in the Bric (Brazil, Russia, India and China) countries last year.

During the year Pentland hired an extra 314 staff members, mostly in product and marketing roles.

This week the business, which owns a portfolio including Hunter, Speedo and Ted Baker Footwear, published results showing revenues had risen 14.2% to £1.74bn in the year to December 31.

Pre-tax profit fell 44.6% to £63m, largely as a result of exceptional charges from the acquisition of Blacks and Millets by JD Sports, in which Pentland holds a 57% share.

Pentland saw 62% sales growth in Brazil, 42% in China and 40% in Russia.

India was flat, with chief executive Andy Rubin accepting it “hasn’t been the big opportunity everybody thought it was – yet”.

Rubin was upbeat about Pentland’s overall performance. “There’s no doubt the Olympics helped overall,” he said.

“But in summarising 2012, I would say it was the year we really started to deliver on the investments we’ve made over the past 10 years.”

DOMINANT JEANS SELFRIDGES HAS RAISED THE BAR WITH ITS NEW DENIM STUDIO. WE MEET THE TEAM BEHIND ITS LAUNCH p14

News in Brief Scotch & Soda hits Carnaby Street Dutch young fashion brand Scotch & Soda is opening on Carnaby Street this summer. The 590 sq ft store, which will open at 13/14 Carnaby Street in August, will stock Scotch & Soda as well as Maison Scotch and Amsterdams Blauw.

New sales chief for Hudson Shoes

Hudson Shoes has appointed Mark Shackleton as international sales manager. Shackleton joins from GMI UK, where he was responsible for international sales, Europe, the Middle East and Far East, looking after True Religion, Firetrap and Ben Sherman.

Topshop boss gives £1m to charity

Arcadia boss Sir Philip Green presented a £1m cheque to Breast Cancer Care this week, handing the donation over to model Penny Lancaster Stewart (both pictured). The money had been raised

by BHS through various activities including sales of bras, pin badges and ‘Pink Fridays’ held by the retailer.

Revolt over Hackney Fashion Hub

Local residents are opposing a £2m Hackney Fashion Hub, claiming the project seeks only to “cosmetically restore Hackney’s post-rioting image” rather than investing in the community.

The development will feature a new designers showcase but residents say the “gentrification of Hackney” out-prices the creatives it claims to help.

Subscribe Boot specialist Sorel Footwear is launching its first pre-fall collection next month. The range, for women and men, will be more fashion oriented, with the rain boot styles designed to move “from office to evening, whatever the weather”.

To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8858 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 5

/

NEWS

/ Multiples /

TAXING ISSUE WILL DOLCE & GABBANA BE DAMAGED BY THEIR TAX CONVICTION? www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

Renamed: Superbra is now just Panache

/ Lingerie /

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 6

Panache rebrands to push up sales Lingerie business Panache is rolling out a rebrand of its sub-brands as it looks to ramp up sales in the UK and beyond.

As a result of research across shoppers, stockists and distributors, head of marketing Jennie Field said sub-brands would in future incorporate the Panache name to create more “synergy” across its portfolio.

For spring 14, Superbra will be renamed Panache, while Cleo and Masquerade will take on the suffix ‘by Panache’. The design has been tweaked to create more distinction between them.

Cleo by Panache will exclusively concentrate on bright colours, while Masquerade by Panache will offer a more glamorous look than its sister brand. Superbra will continue to take the classic route.

Field said: “Consumers thought the corporate brand logo could have been for an electrical company, so we’ve gone for a softer pink logo, which is more fitting with the lingerie industry.”

Panache hopes the rebrand will increase sales at its 300 UK stockists, although did not reveal targets. It is also expanding internationally, with Brazil next on the radar.

Field added: “We want to help out wholesale customers by increasing the desirability of the brand.”

‘Consumers thought the logo could have been for an electrical company’ Jennie Field, head of marketing, Panache

New boss sticking with Jaeger’s plan The new chief executive of Jaeger, Colin Henry, will build on plans forged under Stewart Binnie’s brief chairmanship, pursuing “steady” domestic and overseas growth.

Last week, Drapers exclusively revealed that Henry had been hired to head up the chain. He will take up the reins on July 15, joining from Esprit, where he was chief product officer for the past two years.

Henry has previously worked at Coats Viyella, Umbro and Polo Ralph Lauren.

Nick Sanders, head of portfolio at Jaeger’s private equity owner Better Capital, told Drapers Henry “has a lot of experience around the sector”.

But there would be “no change in strategic direction”, which had been hammered out with Binnie in the months following Better’s acquisition in April.

The key will be to “simplify” the business around its core customer and mainline Jaeger collection, while also pushing out to Europe, the US and Asia, through a mixture of franchises and concessions.

The chain is likely to close a number of stores that are underperforming, while opening in new locations.

Sanders said: “We expect steady and consistent, rather than spectacular, growth.”

Red hot: an autumn 13 Jaeger dress

/ Barometer /

Premium retailer Ted Baker saw group revenues rise 32.7% in the 20 weeks to June 15 on the back of a strong international performance Thailand is the fastestgrowing international shopper market for British retailers. Thai spend by tourists visiting the UK rose 68% from January to May

Arcadia is in talks with Nordstrom and Macy’s to launch Miss Selfridge in the US. A spokeswoman for Arcadia said the company was “in ongoing discussions” but nothing has been confirmed so far

THRILLS

SPILLS

JD Sports’ fascias Bank and Scotts saw like-for-like sales fall 5% over the 18 weeks to June 8

Fashion retailers are three times more likely to suffer internal theft than other retailers, says the Retail Loss Prevention Forum

IN-DEPTH

Indies form united front By signing up to July’s Independent Retailer Month, indies are working together to win back shoppers Words by VICTORIA GALLAGHER

‘If indies want to survive then they need to assume that nothing is going to change’ Clare Rayner, founder, Support for Independent Retail Campaign

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 7

T

he UK’s third Independent Retailer Month kicks off next week, aiming to raise awareness of local companies and increase footfall in town and village centres by helping retailers stay open and improve their network of fellow traders.

The latest initiative comes as footfall on the UK’s high streets and shopping centres continues to struggle, with both destinations reporting a decline in footfall during May. According to figures published by the British Retail Consortium/Springboard, 1% fewer people visited high streets compared with a year ago, while 1.7% fewer visitors went to shopping centres.

Clare Rayner, who founded the Support for Independent Retail Campaign in 2011, said indies needed to take the initiative.

“If they want to survive then they need to assume that nothing is going to change and need to be dynamic,” she says.

Rayner is calling on shoppers to spend 20% of their monthly budget with local retailers rather than in chains, out-of-town centres or online.

“This campaign is in its third year and it couldn’t be more important,” she says.

“Only last month it was revealed that the number of empty shops across the UK has hit an all-time high and the only way to try to stem further closures is for retailers to be proactive – not only remind customers that they’re here, but to give them more reasons to visit.”

Communities care: St Albans indie The Dressing Room will be running events and competitions for the campaign

The campaign’s website provides retailers with access to a range of free resources, including posters and thank you cards for customers. “We are here to encourage them to do something that is relevant to their community because they are the best ones to decide what their customers need,” adds Rayner.

THOUSANDS OF INDIES are expected to participate in this year’s initiative with a range of activities including wine and canapé evenings – designed to appeal to the rising number of visitors to town centres after 6pm – and tea parties.

Other stores are running special giveaways, such as Oxford lingerie and womenswear indie Pure Marie, which is offering discounts for customers who recommend a friend for a bra fitting, or Edinburgh womenswear indie Eden, which is giving away goodie bags.

Contemporary womenswear indie Boudoir Femme in Cambridge has lined up a selection of activities and promotions throughout July including free gifts for customers, 10%-off offers and a competition.

Story in Numbers

1,000

Retailers expected to be involved in this year’s campaign

1%

Fewer people visited high streets in May compared with last year

3rd

Year of the initiative

20%

Of shoppers’ monthly budget asked to be spent at indies

Owner Pippa Sandison says she was looking to remind consumers of the “great customer service and sense of community” people can get when shopping closer to home.

Sandison adds: “The number of empty shops on British high streets has hit an all-time high this year, and the only way to stop that happening is for people to visit them and support them.”

St Albans womenswear indie The Dressing Room is also pledging its support to the initiative. During July the retailer will offer double loyalty points in store and online every Saturday.

Every transaction will be entered into a prize draw to win a luxury goody bag.

Charlotte Phillip, store and website manager at The Dressing Room, praises the campaign. “With the way the high street is, it is important for indies to be supported by their local communities.

If everyone can work together it will raise awareness,” she says.

For updates throughout Independent Retailer Month, go to www.drapersonline.com/news

OPINION

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 8

Mastering global expansion is the new measure of success _ Ana Santi

H

ave you looked at this week’s Thrills & Spills graphic on page 6?

It may come as a surprise that I’m pointing you in that direction rather than towards our lead story, anchor interview or major show coverage. But there’s something rather neat about it.

That diagonal line separating the winners and losers points to a clear success story in fashion retailing: international opportunities are driving growth.

With a stagnant or saturated UK market, depending on what type of business you run, it’s easy to see why people are looking further afield, but success is not guaranteed. In fact, alongside those stories of double-digit growth, there’s another reason why everyone is talking about it: no individual or UK fashion business (that I’ve spoken to, at least) feels completely confident with their international strategy.

One retailer told me this week that he is still getting to grips with the returns policy of the overseas department store his concession is stocked in. The business has a returns rate of 40% (compared with single digits in the UK) because shoppers are allowed to return an item within 180 days of purchase. He is reluctant to pull out because the brand needs the exposure, but the situation is playing havoc with cash flow.

For now, he is choosing brand awareness. The solution seems to be to alter this returns policy, but at the

risk of upsetting a customer that is used to a certain way of purchasing. And no one wants to hurt the customer.

It will be interesting to see how Arcadia deals with Macy’s 180 days returns policy if the group goes ahead with plans to launch Miss Selfridge in the US department store (see Drapersonline.com/news for more details).

The appetite for international expansion stretches from the mid-market to designer level. Mulberry’s autumn 13 campaign featuring model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne has an international customer in mind.

The British brand reported two profit warnings in the lead-up to suffering a 36% drop in pre-tax profits for the year earlier this month, blaming a stagnant UK market.

The focus is now very much on appealing to the Asian shopper, but the challenge for Mulberry is to retain its quirky British heritage while elevating the label’s global awareness. Alexa Chung may work brilliantly in the UK as an ambassador, but Delevingne, while also a true Brit, has huge international appeal.

This campaign alone won’t solve Mulberry’s problems. According to insiders there is internal discontent about the strategy of new chief executive Bruno Guillon (ex Hermès) to elevate the brand’s positioning and raise prices. But I think this campaign could help. It retains the Mulberry DNA while addressing the brand’s need to expand beyond its UK heartland.

Drapers deputy editor / ana.santi@emap.com

WHAT DO YOU THINK – ARE UK BUSINESSES BEING TOO SLOW TO EXPAND OVERSEAS? www.drapersonline.com

JOIN THE DEBATE Add your views to the week’s top stories by going to www.drapersonline.com

/ Talking Business /

_ Nick Hood

S

ince the start of 2012 there have been 85 major retail failures threatening nearly 6,000 shops and more than 56,000 jobs, many of them in the fashion industry. The debts owed by the largest 20 of those companies totalled more than £1bn.

For suppliers, avoiding bad debts is made unnecessarily difficult by the pernicious practice of splitting the finances of a business between a trading company, which often looks perfectly healthy, and a parent company, where huge debts and other potential issues are hidden away, often offshore.

A recent example was Republic, where the operating company made £3m profit and had net assets of

£49m with no debts. To the unwary, this was a perfectly good credit risk.

The problems were concealed six steps up the corporate chain where debts of £50m and annual losses of £50m lurked. The ultimate owners who walked away from the company when the going got tough were another six steps further away in the Cayman Islands.

Structures like this are far from unusual, so how are suppliers supposed to work out whether to go on trading with their customers?

It’s high time the Government imposed more transparent financial reporting to stop this scandal.

Business analyst at risk management firm Company Watch

/ Talking Shop /

‘Lives should not be put at risk for fast fashion or low prices’ _ Julia Crew

W

e are proud to be a small independent and online boutique that provides a diverse range of unique and sustainable products. The clothes and accessories we sell address a range of sustainable approaches including high-quality handmade craftsmanship, recycling, fair trade, natural dye and organic materials. The shop also acts as our design studio where we make limited-edition pieces and design collections, which we’ve produced with a fair trade group in Nepal.

In recent weeks we’ve been shocked by the events at garment factories in Bangladesh and recognise this as something that needs to be urgently addressed by retailers and

fashion companies at all levels. Lives should not be put at risk for fast fashion or low prices. Increasingly we see that customers are aware of these issues and are seeking alternative brands with excellent ethical and sustainable credentials.

At Here Today Here Tomorrow we are committed to producing our collections in an ethical manner and have worked with our producer group for three years developing knitwear and homeware. Our supply chain is transparent, our producers receive a fair price and safe working conditions are assured.

Co-owner of premium indie Here Today Here Tomorrow in Dalston, east London

VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES

BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

05 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘Coast MD bows out’ – The senior team were there first ... they’ve moved this business forward. Amazing buying and design direction Anonymous

02 ‘Cash-strapped young shoppers shun fashion’ – The problem is brands are obsessed with an age (15 to 24) that no longer cares about or can afford them Anonymous

03 ‘Retailers commit to reducing environmental footprint of clothing’ – This hopefully will help bring the living standard of the third-world employees and owner to an acceptable level Anonymous

04 ‘Mulberry blames stagnant UK market for profit slump’ – Customers notice when you downspec anything, especially a luxury item. They notice the poor quality Anonymous

05 ‘Coggles shops shut in wake of sale’ – I think in this case the administrators have let the business down Anonymous

Online Poll This week’s poll result Can Bill Grimsey improve on Mary Portas’s efforts to save the high street?

YES

NO

67% 33% This week’s question Has Radley done enough to recover from its recent troubles? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 9

‘Government must work to end scandal of hidden debts’

Fashion INDEX

‘The right in-store experience can drive sales online’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 10

A

survey of 10,000 shoppers across Europe by property agent CBRE found that 78% still choose to shop on the high street when it comes to buying fashion – a figure that rises to 90% among those living in Western Europe.

More interesting still, of the customers who shopped online, 85% said it was still important to visit stores to see and try on clothes.

Statistics like these make one thing clear: online shopping alone isn’t enough for today’s consumers, as most shoppers still want to physically experience products. Luckily, when it comes to bricks-and-clicks, an increasing number of retailers are getting the balance right by making real-world shopping more experiential.

This is especially true for the luxury end of the retail spectrum, as these retailers understand the importance of touching and feeling this kind of high-end merchandise – even if consumers don’t actually buy it straight away. In fact, the endorphins that are released during these tactile experiences could perhaps lead shoppers to buy these same goods online later on.

According to a study conducted by IBM, 50% of online sales are generated after consumers have been browsing offline. As such, some UK shops are rapidly becoming showrooms that prompt people to browse and touch and feel – and then order via whatever channel they choose.

Sophisticated in-store technology is already being used to win over tech-savvy shoppers.

Burberry’s flagship store on Regent Street, for example, has staff on hand with iPads and credit card machines for transactions, along with the world’s tallest retail screen, 550 hidden speakers, screens that turn into mirrors and a hydraulic stage for performances.

Meanwhile, at Victoria’s Secret on Bond Street, customers can watch live feeds from catwalk shows and even control them from their iPads and iPhones.

Companies like these seem to understand that the only way for bricks-and-mortar retailers to compete with online is by offering memorable, meaningful real-world shopping experiences. In other words, when it comes to serving, satisfying and engaging with today’s consumers, experience is definitely required.

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures Week 25 – June 17 to 23, 2013

-2.6%

-2.9%

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

The national retail traffic report from Experian FootFall shows a 2.6% week-on-week decline in shopper traffic and a decline of 2.9% year on year, which is an improvement over the year-to-date shortfall of 4.3%. Talk over the last few weeks of increased consumer confidence seems to have been borne out in the ONS retail sales figures for May, which grew by 2.1% month on month and 1.9% year on year. According to consultants PwC, the continued growth of online purchasing and the lacklustre weather have pushed many high street retailers into early summer Sales.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending June 23, 2013

+2.59% +2% Total fashion

Clothing

-0.08% Footwear

Fashion did well this week with the total figure ending up in positive territory. Clothing outperformed footwear. In addition, the more specialist retailers generally outperformed mainstream fashion. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 8.9% 2. Merchandising 6.2% CAMBRIDGE 33.7%

3. Production 6% 4. Sales 4.4%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.2% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – WOMEN’S KNITWEAR

Poor weather this spring has propelled sales of women’s knitwear, driven by increases in both volume and price

£1.04bn Expenditure

+10.9%

+6.1%

62.8m Number of units

+4.6%

£16.64 Average selling price

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012

40%

0% SPORTS STORES

SUPERMARKETS

DISCOUNTERS

HOME SHOPPING

PURE-PLAY ETAIL

DEPT STORES

GENERAL STORES

Natasha Shatford, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

INDIES

Growth in sales of women’s knitwear online

+14.1%

Growth in spend on knitwear by women aged under 25

FASHION CHAINS

+24.1%

Growth in knitwear has been fuelled by an increased spend on jumpers as cardigans decline

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● FAST RETAILING is to open shop-in-shops

BELGIUM

GERMANY

USA

for several of its secondary brands, including GU, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Princesse Tam Tam and PLST, in its Uniqlo Shanghai flagship, which opens in the autumn. It will mark the brands’ mainland China debuts.

CHINA

● FOOT LOCKER has been given permission

by Germany’s Federal Cartel Office to complete its $94m (£61m) acquisition of German athletics chain Runners Point from private equity firm Hannover Finanz. The sale is expected to complete in early July.

● BURLINGTON COAT FACTORY net sales

KENYA

rose 8.4% to $1.06bn (£690m) in its first quarter to May 4. Net income rose $10.3m (£6.7m) to $11.1m (£7.22m). The rise was driven by sales growth and improved margin at the US off-price chain.

● WOOLWORTHS plans to open 20 stores in Kenya in coming years, focusing on clothing and smaller stores outside shopping malls.

In its other east African markets of Uganda and Tanzania, it aims to open four stores.

This acquisition will enhance our position in Germany and [allow us to] further diversify and expand our European business Ken C Hicks, chairman and chief executive, Foot Locker

● ZALANDO, the footwear and fashion

etailer, is now offering a pick-up service in Belgium. The service is available at 1,100 Bpost and Belgian post offices, with 400 more locations to launch by 2014.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 11

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Contemporary footwear WOMEN’S

MEN’S

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

TOP 10

TOP 10 1

Converse

1

2

Vans

2

Vans

3

Birkenstock

3

Loake

4

Lacoste

5

Nike

4

Ugg Australia

5

Nike

6

Fly London

7

Camper

8

Ted Baker

9

Vagabond

9

Lacuzzo

10

Toms

10

Hugo Boss

TOP 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Sandals

2

Flip-flops

3

Trainers

4

Pumps

5

Flats

TOP 5

TAKINGS THIS WEEK +1.1% year-on-year change

£64 AVERAGE SPEND

6

Toms

7

Adidas Originals

8

Paolo Vandini

£7,063 TAKINGS THIS WEEK +5% year-on-year change

TOP 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Trainers

2

Brogues

3

Canvas

4

Loafers

5

Sandals

£71

TOP 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through Week ending June 22, 2013

1

Converse

1

Vans

2

Nike

2

Adidas Originals Jeffery-West

3

Vans

3

4

Birkenstock

4

Boxfresh

5

Toms

5

Converse

TOP 5

Brands with the best margin

-6%

-4.5%

TOP 5

Brands with the best margin

1

Yokono

2

Converse

2

Lacuzzo

3

Ugg Australia

3

Cruyff Classics

4

Ralph Lauren

5

Loake

4 Vivienne Westwood Anglomania for Melissa 5

DKNY

FOOTFALL Change for week ending June 22, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

1

Paolo Vandini

INDIE WATCH

-1.57%

FOOTFALL Change for week ending June 22, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

76 THE BIG NUMBER

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

-2.7%

Week ending June 22, 2013

-2.51%

%

of footwear indies said their customers are happy to try new brands

AVERAGE MONTHLY TAKINGS

PROFIT MARGIN

AVERAGE NUMBER OF UNITS SOLD

Data for May 13 to June 9, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 12

£7,156

Converse

ECOMM Index

A monthly insight into sales and shopping behaviour online ONLINE CONSUMER MARKET OVERVIEW

Monthly change in % of internet population and fashion shoppers

RETAILERS VISITED BY CATEGORY

Top five ecommerce sites visited this month by category including month by month % change Pure-play

Unique visitors

Change

Asos

1,648,000

+6%

6,164,632

+4%

eBay

843,000

+3%

Pure-play

4,389,666

+4%

Very

801,000

+1%

Dept stores

3,002,232

0%

Boohoo.com

791,000

+22%

Sportswear

2,269,720

+16%

Littlewoods

623,000

+13%

Supermarkets

1,913,725

+11%

Footwear

1,342,945

-1%

Multiples

Unique visitors

New Look

1,814,000

Next

1,645,000

+1%

Matalan

1,378,000

-9%

River Island

1,072,000

+10%

Topshop

983,000

+13%

Premium

Unique visitors

Lacoste

141,000

Ralph Lauren

82,000

-4%

Hugo Boss

75,000

+7%

Gucci

56,000

-2%

Farfetch

32,000

-5%

Retailer type

Unique visitors

Multiples

Value

976,274

+4%

Premium

516,558

+21%

Underwear

440,362

+5%

+1% Total internet browsing population

+4% Fashion shoppers

REFERRAL SOURCES TO FASHION SITES 36% Web portals/aggregators Other Shopping Search Direct

22%

Email

17%

Social network News and media

%

10% 7%

5%

35 THE BIG NUMBER

of fashion shoppers shop across different catergories

3% 1%

Change

Change +18%

Change +172%

Department stores

Unique visitors

Debenhams

1,565,000

Change

Marks & Spencer

1,047,000

-11%

John Lewis

527,000

-10%

BHS

478,000

+60%

House of Fraser

246,000

-11%

Footwear

Unique visitors

Clarks

516,000

-16%

Office

375,000

+23%

Schuh

371,000

+11%

Barratts

193,000

+11%

Kurt Geiger

81,000

-15%

+2%

Change

CROSS-VISITATION ACROSS TOP FASHION RETAILERS

Proportion of visitors to a retailer category that also looked at other categories among UK’s top 117 etailers during the month

00%

00%

00%

Pure-play

11%

Department stores

5%

58%

Multiples

39%

27% 13%

5%

Premium

6%

42%

9% 55%

27%

Pure-play

Department stores

Multiples

Premium

Value

41%

47% 9%

17% 4%

Value

34%

40%

52%

58%

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 13

ONLINE FASHION VISITORS BY RETAILER

Number of customer visits by retailer category

CLOSE-UP I SELFRIDGES DENIM STUDIO

Democratic Republic o Words by CATHERINE NEILAN

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 14

D

enim may – according to Giorgio Armani – “represent democracy”, but the category is also big business.

The global market for jeans alone is expected to reach $56bn (£36bn) by 2018, according to research firm Companiesandmarkets.com, and Selfridges is tapping into that demand for this evergreen wardrobe staple with the launch of the Denim Studio at its London flagship.

Two years and “well in excess of £6m” in the making, this week saw the official launch take place, complete with two months of celebrations in which denim will literally take over every department in the store, from lingerie to furniture to food (fortunately only food colouring to turn items denim blue).

For Sebastian Manes, newly promoted director of buying and merchandising, it has been a long road and one that began after the success of the Shoe Galleries became clear.

The world’s largest footwear department when it launched, Shoe Galleries features everything from £20 Gandys flip-flops to £13,000 Swarovski-encrusted Gina wedges.

“We wanted to apply the same philosophy to denim,” Manes explains. “Our offer before was a bit too narrow, focused on the mid-market but without stretching to both ends. Our philosophy is to be fashion democratic, but until this point it was not really true.”

THE DENIM STUDIO – which has already received the highest-ever score for Drapers’ Shopwatch (43 out of 50) – sets that straight.

With 11,000 pairs of jeans, ranging from an £11 Primark pair to a bespoke £11,000 pair by Paige (embellished with two carats of a girl’s best friend), the business is hoping to attract everyone in the market for a pair of jeans.

Others may have attempted something similar, but this project dwarfs those of competitors such as Harrods’ Fashion Lab Denim.

According to director of womenswear Judd Crane, until now 75% of Selfridges’ jeans turnover has come from the premium market of £150 to £250 pairs. But with the inclusion of more designer names such as Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane – as well as the Primark concession at the lower end – that is going to u come down to about 65%.

Meet the team: (standing, from left) Paolo Casseb, denim personal shopper; Clody Middleton-Wells, denim expert; Judd Crane, director of womenswear; Yona Christodoulou, divisional manager; Claire Thacker, department manager; Chrissy Pankhurst, denim personal shopper; Liliana Evangelou, buying administrator; Sarah Cartwright, denim assistant buyer; (sitting, from left) Sebastian Manes, buying director; Melissa McGinnis, denim buyer; Ben Mohammed, product specialist; Milly Antonin, service manager

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 15

c of Denim

Selfridges is taking an egalitarian approach to jeans with its new ÂŁ6m Denim Studio

u

CLOSE-UP I SELFRIDGES DENIM STUDIO

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 16

Sub-£150 pieces are expected to make up about 15% of the total denim takings, but it’s not just Primark that is carrying the burden of shifting denim in volume. A pop-up space currently dedicated to ‘Denim by the Kilo’ sells reworked vintage product as provided by the East End Thrift Shop, literally at £25 per kilo.

“Quite a lot weigh in at half a kilo, so that’s a very interesting price point,” says Crane.

“We want it to be a place where every woman can buy something, no matter what her age, budget, shape or style. It’s a place for mothers and daughters to shop together,” he adds.

THE POP-UP AREA also affords a grittier and, dare I say it, messier element to the rest of the perfectly manicured department. “We really wanted from our first season to get to the heart and soul of denim,” says Crane. “Sometimes new environments can seem a bit cold, so this is going to be a really active area in terms of us adding to the feel of the studio.”

Aside from price point, the business has done its homework when it comes to styling to avoid doubling up on skinny and boyfriend fits.

Selfridges categorised shoppers by “tribe” – edgy, natural, tough lovers, tomboy – and sought out brands that offer something a bit different.

Yona Christodoulou, third floor divisional manager, explains the Denim Studio “has to cater for two and a half floors of womenswear”.

She adds: “That lady buying her dress in Roland Mouret, or the one buying her gym kit in Sweaty Betty, knows they can buy their jeans here. Whether it’s Primark or J Brand’s Little Black Jean, she will get what she wants.”

The Little Black Jean offers some insight into the level of work Selfridges has put into this new department. The team has asked every brand to create something exclusive to Selfridges, but J Brand took that to a whole new level, responding with the £495 denim answer to the little black dress.

J Brand had been developing the idea before it was approached but had needed a retail partner to launch it through until Selfridges came knocking.

J Brand creative director Donald Oliver says: “It was a real collaboration from day one, and it’s just great that we have been able to showcase it in such a way that looks incredibly modern and in keeping with the brand.”

Overall he describes The Denim Studio as “genius” (no pun intended). “It’s an emotional purchase and for experts who know denim to be able to point women in the right direction is amazing – jeans are not easy to shop.”

His was not the only brand to enthuse about the experience of working with Selfridges.

Hudson president Barbara Cook tells Drapers she was so impressed that the brand took all the staff on the denim floor out as “a thank you for the way they brought denim to life”.

Denim heaven: J Brand’s premium offer was on Selfridges’ hit list of brands it wanted for the Studio

“The team behaves like true partners – they want to do what they can to maximise sales of Hudson jeans,” she says. “Selfridges has the incredible ability to attract all walks of life and this inclusion of disposable fashion alongside the elite is great. I don’t think everyone has all the answers but they come pretty close.”

ALONGSIDE EXISTING PARTNERS such as Hudson, J Brand and Paige – all of which are still the top sellers – are new names such as The Laundry Room, Hyena and Frame.

Manes explains that the team had a “hit list” of brands it wanted to include, but it took nearly a year to get everyone on board during what he describes as a “seduction process”.

“Because of the scale of the project, brands had never seen anything like that before, so there was a bit of scepticism at first, but eventually when it became clear that all the services went right to the client, they saw the opportunity was huge,” he says.

While product is king, service plays more than second fiddle. The number of fitting rooms has doubled to 18, two of which are dedicated to ‘denim by appointment’, with windows allowing sunlight in for the first time. Husbands tired by their wives’ hunt for the “perfect bottom” (the average time spent in changing rooms when jeans shopping is 45 minutes to an hour) are given water, jelly beans (blue, naturally), access to DVDs and the hypnotic Jeanius Bar – an interactive mood table with flowing images, short films and denim inspiration, which doubles up as a tool for consultations.

The team has also increased, with three times as many staff on hand to respond to the

blue lights that flicker on when someone needs a second opinion, in a process that one team member compared to bra fittings.

Each member of the team has a denim pouch with tricks of the trade – most in need is the tape measure that allows them to quickly establish what alternations might be needed. A pair of jeans is then handed to the on-site tailoring team, who must return it ready to wear within an hour.

During the launch celebrations, Selfridges also had a team from British label Cut & Sew to customise jeans – for free. “Potentially you could make a pair of £11 jeans look like a pair of £11,000 ones,” says Christodoulou.

However, the inclusion of a dominant Primark concession has not gone uncriticised, particularly in the wake of the tragedy in Bangladesh. “Should Selfridges really be doing that?” a senior figure at a rival store asks. “It just doesn’t sit right somehow.”

While the £11 jeans are likely to attract a new kind of shopper – one who might, as Crane puts it, “find the experience of a Primark store intense” – Selfridges’ initial targets are perhaps less than ambitious.

Given the size of the new space – it is five times bigger than the previous allocation to denim – it’s surprising Selfridges is only expecting to double the turnover of denim sales (exact figures are kept under wraps).

“Obviously our density is down,” says Manes. “We wanted to give a very strong experience, so 25% of space is dedicated to fitting rooms, alteration, denim by appointment, the Jeanius bar and so on. The game has been elevated – you can’t always build success just on sales density.”

SHOPWATCH

Browns Focus _ South Molton Street, London

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 18

JOHN RYAN is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

B

rowns Focus, the young fashion arm of designer retailer Browns at the heart of South Molton Street in central London, has been united with its more grown-up relation by moving from one side of the pedestrianised thoroughfare to the other.

Now Browns Focus is physically part of Browns, although both its shopfront and interior mark it out as being different from the rest of the operation.

It also serves to reinforce Browns’ status as the South Molton Street fashion lynchpin – somehow by joining the different parts together, this looks a more forceful offer, which also happens to cover a wider age span, all under one roof. Yet this remains a discrete part of the Browns empire and to judge by the age of the shoppers heading into it, this is an almost equally separate customer, which is probably a good thing.

02

CONCEPT 

This is black box, rather than white box, on the ground floor at least, but the principle is broadly the same. The ground floor is blacked out and this does give a reasonably minimalist shopfit the feeling of boutique. Things are reversed in the basement, where all is white.

There is nothing complex about the store design in Browns Focus, but everything works with everything else and it is clear that things have been carefully thought through.

01

VISUAL MERCHANDISING 

The visual merchandising in this store is pretty straightforward – side-hang most of the stock around the perimeter and then stand back. And while this may seem simple to the point of ennui, it works well owing to the physically narrow

nature of the interior and the requirement to keep the mid-shop clear. The basement is wider and white tables created by bonded wooden batons are used here to display accessories.

Stacked metal cubes are used as the vehicle for further accessory

displays and there are modishly dressed mannequins in the windows. The store was on Sale on the day of visiting, but it did not feel cheap and as an exercise in showing a range of labels in a relatively modest space, this was effective.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 24 South Molton Street, London W1 OFFICIAL LAUNCH July NUMBER OF FLOORS Two AMBIENCE Boutique

03

05

At this end of the market, there is an all-toofrequent tendency for those who are supposed to be looking after the needs of the shoppers to judge. There is none of this looking down the nose about Browns Focus and your correspondent was met with a cheery greeting and when the “just looking” flag was hoisted, the staff knew how and when to back off.

The other point is that when service was needed, it was on hand as required and rendered with a helpful smile. Good all round.

Selfridges, Matches, Primark, H&M, Zara and maybe House of Fraser. These are just a few of the names that stand not as direct competitors (although Selfridges and Matches arguably are) to Browns Focus, but as offers that will certainly exert a pull on the purse strings of shoppers in the area and which may

Room for improvement 01

Type Browns Focus into Google and the page that is at the top of the list informs you that ‘Browns Focus sits opposite Browns on South Molton Street’. An update is overdue.

02

An indication of the labels that are on offer would be useful and more storytelling would improve the in-store experience.

03

To date there has been little marketing noise about what has happened at Browns Focus.

The time is right to engage in a mild marketing initiative.

COMPETITION  therefore detract from the ability to spend big in this store. The difficulty of being an independent is simply put – there will always be bigger and better-funded operations and you therefore have to fall back on your visual merchandising wit and creativity to survive and prosper.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 19

SERVICE 

04

PRODUCT 

‘SHUT UP YOU’RE NOT MY REAL DAD’ says a hand-sequined Ashish top in the window. This may not be the most conciliatory garment, but it goes some distance towards indicating what can be expected in Browns Focus – this is

a range of labels for the conspicuously well-heeled who either are kids or would rather like to be ‘down with’ them. The range features many familiar names, but there are a lot of designers who most shoppers probably won’t have heard of.

06

VERDICT AN IMPROVING OFFER

Joining the rest of the Browns party seems to have benefitted Browns Focus. This has been a fairly hardy perennial as far as the Browns empire is concerned, but there was a sense that it was almost too discrete from its parent. That is now gone and for those in search of something different, at a (high) price, this is a good place to start. The decision to make this a stark contrast with the rest of the Browns offer also seems a canny one. This is about young, or young attitude fashion and it needs a sense of being separated from 34 50 the main ranges.

To see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

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DIRECTIONS

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

EXCLUSIVE

This week’s hero

THE DUFFER OF ST GEORGE JAPAN

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 21

From spring 14 in the UK, menswear brand Duffer will open the sales books of its premium The Duffer of St George Japan line for the first time outside Asia. A casual surfer vibe dominates, with reproduced favourites from the Duffer archive set to be unveiled at shows Seek in Berlin and Jacket Required in London. “The line has always been designed in London and sold through our licence holder in Japan,” explains creative director Marco Cairns. “We thought the time was right to bring it home to its roots.” Wholesale prices range from £12 to £70.

Contact: 020 3411 7341

The Duffer of St George Japan collection has a premium, surfer-inspired look

THE BUZZ / Fashion foreword /

If boys will be girls, what’s that mean for menswear?

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 22

A

_ Ian Wright

couple of weeks back in this column, I issued a rallying cry for the more directional menswear, imploring its detractors to take it a lot more seriously. Post London Collections: Men and Pitti Uomo, I must issue a caveat to that cry. I still must stress how vital creativity and exploration is to men’s fashion, for we wouldn’t have the talents of Agi & Sam, Christopher Shannon, the Sibling gang et al without embracing some deviation from the menswear norms.

I’d also emphasise that I believe everyone is entitled to their view on the world. But what I can’t get my head around is the feminising of men. Fashion is supposed to inspire us guys – lord knows we’ve come a long way since the days of dressing only to cover our nakedness – so collections that not only make you feel uncomfortable contemplating wearing it yourself but also feel uncomfortable for the poor models wearing it seem some way wide of the mark.

I’m loath to single out any one designer out, but JW Anderson’s spring 14 collection was an actual joke in this regard. Surely he was taking the piss with his featherweight halterneck tops, his swishy high-waisted trousers and his tunic-style, sleeveless numbers? OK, so it wasn’t exactly Widow Twanky dressed up for a night out (a panto reference two weeks running – who’d have thought?) as Anderson’s casting put paid to that, but the microscopic, withered boys only served to further accentuate the feminine – no, scratch that – womenswear looks. I’m a huge advocate of his women’s collections and the fascinating challenges they pose to the observer and the wearer, but unfortunately, after last season’s frilly shorts/commercial pieces hybrid, his spring 14 menswear was just downright inappropriate for men and boys alike, even if in the unlikely event their pocket money can run to JW prices. So what’s the point?

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget!

Look out for...

MUST VISIT — Hello, My Name is Paul Smith This November, the London Design Museum will open a showcase of the works of British designer Paul Smith. Running from November 15, 2013 until March 9, 2014, the exhibition will feature archive pieces and will explore the brand’s techniques and influences.

Come spring, Paul Smith will be the name on everyone’s lips, so look at buying into the label now for a timely connection.

020 7940 8790 www.designmuseum.org

/ Trendwatch /

Altuzarra

Jason Wu

By Walski takes it to extremes Last week saw the opening of concept store By Walski on Redchurch Street in London’s Shoreditch. Owner Franck Bywalski is the co-founder of X-Treme Video, a distribution firm for extreme sports films, and has curated a brand mix that reflects both the cultural and sartorial sides of action sports.

Names including menswear label Commune de Paris and Danish rainwear label Rains sit alongside image-capturing products from the likes of GoPro. The store also has a space for art exhibitions and video screenings.

Christian Dior

SHEER DELIGHTS

While the focus was on LCM, the resort collections offered something for the ladies. Soft, sheer fabrics are popular, in the lightest creams to create an angelic, ethereal look that’s subtly sexy.

ITALIAN STALLIONS The Milan menswear shows took place this week – look out for our report in next week’s issue

A STITCH IN TIME We’ll be previewing the brands to see at London trade show Stitch in our next issue

ADVERTORIAL COTTON USA

International buyers met suppliers from Southern Asia at the latest COTTON USA sourcing event for U.S. cotton textiles and apparel

T

he COTTON USA Supply Chain Marketing (SCM) programme helps to establish mutually beneficial business relationships between buyers and suppliers of U.S. cotton merchandise.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary and with an already impressive reputation, COTTON USA’s tours continue to go from strength to strength.

The most recent sourcing event, held in Dubai, UAE, earlier this month was no exception. By simplifying the sourcing process, COTTON USA supports the entire U.S. cotton supply chain, from processing right through to retailing.

Since launching the SCM programme in 2003, Cotton Council International (CCI) has organised more than 30 sourcing tours to key supplying countries around the world. These events have provided more than 400 buyers with valuable opportunities to make contact with potential new suppliers and discuss their merchandise needs, from design and quality, to price and delivery.

The product focus for the Dubai visit was on denim, woven and knits. It was a unique sourcing event because it assembled key players in the supply chain from yarn, fabric and garment suppliers to brand and retail buyers, all in one convenient location. Attendees were able to meet a large number of prospective vendors within a brief and efficient time period, without having to travel to each individual country.

Among the buyers taking part were representatives from renowned fashion brands and retailers, including River Island from the UK, along with Mango, El Corte Inglés, Geox, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss and Gap. Suppliers came from six Southern Asian countries:

‘The event was so successful because it was a one-stop market place, saving buyers time’ Stephanie Thiers-Ratcliffe, International Marketing Manager, CCI

SOURCING SUCCESS IN DUBAI

Cotton opportunities: buyers met with carefully selected manufacturers on the sourcing tour

Bangladesh, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Thailand and Vietnam, as well as Turkey.

Feedback from buyers indicated they were impressed with the number and quality of suppliers and the broad range of merchandise on offer. All the manufacturers had been carefully selected by CCI for their ability to produce quality fabric and garments made with U.S. cotton, so buyers could be confident they were not wasting time with unsuitable suppliers. In turn, the mills knew they were meeting only those buyers who had the potential to do some serious business.

Speaking about the tour, Kate Stacey, Supply Chain Controller at River Island, says: “COTTON USA organised a very productive and informative sourcing event with suppliers from Pakistan, India, Bangladesh and Turkey.”

She also notes: “The event started with some very interesting presentations from a variety of sources, including CCI’s own presentation on World Supply and Demand of Cotton. The organised meetings were constructive with both garment suppliers and fabric manufacturers,

ensuring no time was wasted and keeping us to a necessary tight schedule to ensure we met with all the relevant exhibitors.”

Stephanie Thiers-Ratcliffe, International Marketing Manager of CCI, has been involved in numerous sourcing tours and events and knows just how useful they can be for buyers and manufacturers alike. “CCI’s aim for the SCM programme has always been to bring together buyers of home textiles and clothing with manufacturers who can supply products made with U.S. cotton that meet their specific requirements on quantity, quality and price,” she says. “The Dubai event was so successful because it was a one-stop market place, saving buyers the time and trouble of travelling to different countries. It provided a very positive environment for them to make contact with reliable suppliers and start to lay the foundations of long-term trading partnerships.”

For more on COTTON USA, email CCI at sthiers@cotton.org or visit www.cottonusa.co.uk

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

London Collections: Men Burberry had its homecoming as the capital’s menswear assets unveiled their spring 14 collections Words by EMILY NORVAL Photography by CATWALKING.COM

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 24

BEST IN SHOW BURBERRY PRORSUM Burberry’s much-anticipated homecoming didn’t disappoint, with a celebration of all things British, from the country’s artistic spirit to its dubious weather.

Fabrics Soft cashmere knits, lightweight linen, cotton tailoring and silk ties.

Items Unstructured trench coats, cagoules, crisp shirts under hooded knits.

Themes The collection was called Writers and Painters, taking inspiration from Alan Bennett and David Hockney, who hail from Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey’s home county, Yorkshire. It was bold in colour, with a nod to the eccentricity of British style, from jackets that verged on the dishevelled, to grandad-style cardigans and trousers cut slightly too short.

In short Despite the brashness of the colours, there was a brilliant subtlety to the collection. The return of Burberry could have paved the way for sentimentality bordering on naff, but injecting some wry British humour into Bailey’s wearable luxury knocked this collection out of the park.

To view more pictures of the collections from London Collections: Men, go to www.drapersonline.com/fashion

TOM FORD

TOM FORD

Ford showed his menswear in an intimate showroom presentation. Jewel colours and floral prints reigned, while bestselling cocktail blazers stood out.

Fabrics Lightweight cotton jackets, silklinen mix jacquard blazers, silk ties and fine wool rollnecks.

Items Single-breasted summer suits, cocktail blazers in jewel tones, printed floral trousers, deep V-neck T-shirts and printed loafers.

Themes Florals! Brights! This was a collection made for the kind of hot summers the wealthy can afford to enjoy.

In short It’s impressive how Ford moves between spring and autumn, maintaining both brand identity and differentiation between the demands of the seasons.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 25

RICHARD NICOLL Nicoll continued to push his newly developed enthusiasm for toughed-up black for his latest outing.

Fabrics Leather, cotton, denim, python print and mesh elements.

Items Bomber jackets in moody prints or electric blue, leather-panelled T-shirts, boiler suits, python-printed trench coats, gingham trousers and casual blazers.

Themes The tough sports-lux look was strong, although the pale gingham tailoring sitting alongside black mesh and leather elements was slightly incoherent. Part gothic, part electro and part Chelsea boy in the summer.

In short There was too much going on.

The leathery sportswear should still sell well if buyers can dissect the collection.

JW ANDERSON One of the most talked about shows at LCM, but the topic was skinny models rather than clothes.

Fabrics Lace, silk-lined sponge, fine sheers.

Items Halternecks, sheer tank tops, wide-leg baggy trousers, heavily constructed long-line tops, complete with arm-restraints and the odd high-neck.

Themes It’s safe to say JW Anderson has become a theme unto himself.

In short It seems every season JW Anderson’s menswear is discussed as a ‘love or loathe’ show. We’ve moved on from boob tubes to halter tops at least, but it still doesn’t mean men will wear it.

His skill and imagination are obvious, but u work much better with womenswear.

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

JONATHAN SAUNDERS Saunders’ brand of city-slicker cool continues to shine through for spring 14.

Fabrics Fine knits, neoprene, satin bombers and jacquard suiting.

Items Precise casual trousers in ombré white and red sat alongside a tailored suit, which faded from dark to pale grey around the waistline. Saunders’ signature circles cropped up on trenches and suits.

Themes City boys do spring. This was workwear with attitude, but so beautifully made as to not be aggressive.

In short Saunders’ style has become well-established. But an emphasis on new techniques this season, with bonded seams replacing stitching, demonstrates there is plenty more innovation to come.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 26

SIBLING For spring, the design trio introduced harder, structured denim lines into the softness of their silhouettes and put on one of the best shows of all.

Fabrics Lightweight woven knits, denim and plastic (really).

Items Denim jackets, baggy jeans, boiler suits and all manner of crazy knitwear.

Themes West Side Story – a riff on the classic musical and its tale of angry American street gangs. The theme worked perfectly with Sibling’s familiar graphic style; it was fun yet retained a level of bold masculinity.

In short Sibling found the perfect theme for its brand identity. Standing out as one of the most creatively inspiring collections of LCM. Sure to be a hit.

TOPMAN DESIGN Topman Design started on the premise of a fun theme, but fell short of the mark through too little variety.

Fabrics Silk shirts, coated cotton trousers and embroidery.

Items Western cowboy shirts, wide-leg trousers, bomber jackets and sleeveless bomber vests.

Themes The statement look was called Techno Cowboy, where Nashville met the futuristic weirdness of 1950s sci-fi movies. The embroidery on the shirts revealed spiders crawling over blood red stitching. A creepy, cool combination.

In short One repetitive look doesn’t make a well-rounded collection. Not to mention that the dark colours didn’t feel very spring-like.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 27

McQueen’s harsh wallpaper prints exuded a sense of drama in the setting of King’s Cross station

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

AGI & SAM

Creative director Sarah Burton has settled in, bringing her version of the label’s signature drama to the London stage.

Fabrics Cotton, embroidery, lace, fine knits, jacquard and brocade.

Items A long-line sleeveless db coat, wallpaper prints on db and sb suits, equestrian-style jackets and waistcoats, cropped trousers and dishevelled knits.

Themes Diminished grandeur and Edwardian drama.

In short Set under the railway arches of King’s Cross, McQueen was showmanship personified. Beige jackets overlaid with white lace emitted a sense of innocence, which contrasted with the harsher prints.

Not terribly commercial, but McQueen through and through.

Agi & Sam’s first solo show was pleasing and fun, if a little less jazzy than expected.

Fabrics White cotton shirts, 3D detailing and wool outerwear.

Items Signature sb printed suits, oversized db coats and a technical cream parka with raised detailing.

Themes An old man travelling. The raised detailing represented braille signs, while prints were inspired by bus and train seat covers.

In Short This was very much a paredback Agi & Sam. While the fun colours remained, it veered towards Paul Smith territory (Smith mentors the duo) with the white base layers and solid blocking.

It will be interesting to see if this signals a change in direction for the duo.

u

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Kane used the same idea as his women’s resort range, but failed to see it through.

Fabrics Cotton and printed jersey.

Items Tailored jackets and shorts, suits with sb blazers, casual printed T-shirts and more formal printed shirts, jersey hooded tops, jersey jumpers and matching sweatpants.

Themes Computer-generated graphics, futuristic prints, primary colours of red, yellow and blue.

In short In Kane’s women’s collection he took the graphic ideas directly into the cuts and fabrics; with the men’s he simply printed an image onto an unexciting jersey. A shame, as with a little more effort the collection had the potential for brilliance.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 28

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN Raeburn continued to do what he does well, producing a spring collection that was the perfect counterpart to autumn 13 and remained true to his handwriting.

Fabrics Rubberised cotton, merino wool, reappropriated military camouflage prints and parachute textiles.

Items Bomber jackets, tailored suits with shorts, mesh-sleeved jumpers and field jackets.

Themes A continuation of the military theme Raeburn has become known for; spring saw a move on from maritime into the desert.

In short All the key spring 14 trends were here, from bomber jackets to mesh fabrics, but worked in Raeburn’s signature style.

E TAUTZ Designer Patrick Grant delved further into new territory with a flamboyant collection where unexpected pieces collided with sharp tailoring.

Fabrics Silk, mohair, cotton, wool, nylon and cotton poplin.

Items Evening jackets, silk T-shirts, wrap-shawl raincoats, flat-front trousers, tailored shorts and suit jackets, silk safari shirts.

Themes Savile Row meets global travellers, with textile influences from the early 1900s and hints of the Far East.

The colour palette derives from David Attenborough’s The Life of Birds.

In short The collection was varied in style, but remained fully cohesive, with a strong vision across the range.

FASHION Lectra

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DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

Pitti Uomo Words by VICTORIA GALLAGHER

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 30

N

ot even 36-degree heat could keep Pitti Uomo visitors from their formal attire, and judging from the collections exhibited for spring 14 the sartorial look is here to stay. Brands at the Florence show put on a united front with coloured tailoring and printed shirts continuing themes for next summer. Spirits were high across the exhibition floor, despite some brands noting fewer orders than in the past, which they blamed on the intense heat.

WHITE RAVEN Hoping to use Pitti as a place to court UK stockists, menswear brand White Raven was at the show seeking premium menswear stockists, with the likes of Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Browns top targets. The Japanese brand’s signature is a handwoven interlocking fabric pattern, which is used on pockets, sleeves and hoods. For spring 14 White Raven has smartened itself up with tailored pieces making an entrance.

Wholesale prices range from €30 (£26) for a T-shirt to €140 (£120) for a jacket.

Contact: 00 39 02 870 73550 www.studiozeta.org

To see more pictures of the brands on show at Pitti Uomo, go to www.drapersonline.com/fashion

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Renowned US department store Saks Fifth Avenue has launched its private label to the wholesale market for spring 14. Wholesale prices start at $54 (£35) for a polo shirt, which come in a bold array of colours from cherry pink to cobalt blue. The top prices are about $700 (£455) for the tailored pieces.

The accessories are a real standout with leather briefcases, travel bags and totes in muted brown shades as well as hot pillarbox red.

Contact: 00 1 212 753 4000 www.saksfifthavenue.com

CLOSED Military and sportswear references are prevalent across Closed’s spring 14 collection, which features khaki colours and camouflage. The German brand has also created a field jacket, which comes in both a nylon and thin cotton version. The cotton material has been developed by Closed to create an authentic military look using a chunky textured thread. Other key pieces include a burger-print T-shirt, patchwork denim and nautical knitwear. Average wholesale prices are €200 (£171).

Contact: 00 49 40 441 840 66 www.closed.com

Top 5 Trends Micro prints

Although checks and stripes still proved popular across shirts, many labels opted for small printed designs.

Ditsy floral patterns, small geometrical prints and micro circles were used in abundance across Saks Fifth Avenue and Scott James’s collections.

Patchwork

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 31

A homemade feel was on show with the use of patchwork for spring 14.

Denim brand Closed used a new patchwork design across its denim, with both jackets and jeans featuring the collage look, whereas other brands selected colourful patchwork prints on swimwear.

Camouflage

Waistcoats

Layering was again the name of the game with shirts and ties partnered with blazers, lightweight knits and waistcoats. It was clear that many labels had decided to back waistcoats for spring 14, perhaps as a lighter option to the winter gilet.

Contrasting undercollars

Hidden details on shirting came in the form of contrasting undercollars.

Camouflage prints, polka dots, tartan and floral designs were used on the reverse of collars across both shirting and blazers as brands attempted to inject an element of surprise.

▼

SNOBS This Italian men’s footwear brand’s stand was packed with buyers placing orders. For spring 14 the colourful collection has expanded to include a more casual trainer style, available in Snobs’ signature rainbow range of colours. Also new for this season are neon soles and laces. Styles include desert boots and derby shoes, and wholesale prices average €105 (£90). info@snobshoes.com www.snobshoes.com

The military print shows no sign of abating, with camouflage used across brands from streetwear to premium tailoring. Many collections used camouflage accents throughout the range, such as on linings and trims, whereas others used it as a complete look.

DIRECTIONS I MENSWEAR SPRING 14

ISAIA Italian label Isaia has distinct coloured stories for spring 14, with each colour combo creating a complete layered look comprising blazers, waistcoats, shirts and ties. The base colours of grey, blue and brown have been partnered with bright colours to create a fresh summery feel.

The brand has also upped its sportswear offering with field jackets and cargo pants sitting alongside its tailoring. Wholesale prices range from €450 (£384) to €750 (£640).

Contact: 00 39 02 7733 1502 www.isaia.it

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 32

SCOTT JAMES Lightweight fine-gauge cashmere is making a comeback for spring 14 after a four-year absence at Scott James. Coming in a range of colours, the US brand has reintroduced the knitwear to offer retailers luxury products at affordable prices, wholesaling at between €35 (£30) to €40 (£34). Further key looks include micro prints on jackets and shirts and bold stripes on knitwear and sweatshirts. Wholesale prices range from €10 (£8.54) to €95 (£81).

Contact: 00 39 02 8935 6064 www.scottjamesonline.com

KELE CLOTHING Hungarian brand Kele Clothing showed off its fisherman-inspired collection at Pitti. At present the brand has no UK stockists but hopes to entice buyers with its range, which features cardigans and jumpers in watery shades. To complete the nautical look, shark patterns feature on knitwear, while shirts boast anchor prints. Wholesale prices range from €32 (£27) to €115 (£98).

Contact: 00 36 70 947 77 57 www.keleclothing.com

PLINSKY

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 33

Launched for spring 14, menswear brand Plinsky aims to appeal to a wide range of consumers from surfers and skateboarders to cyclists and bikers. Wholesale prices for the premium streetwear brand range from €24 (£20) to €89 (£76). Standout pieces include dip-dyed sweaters and T-shirts in peach and raspberry shades, colour-blocked macs, plus shirts and chinos in prints including Hawaiian flowers and lightning strikes.

Contact: 00 39 0765 45 03 1 www.plinskyclothing.com

JIMI ROOS T-shirt brand Jimi Roos used Pitti Uomo as its platform to launch at wholesale, offering a range of hand-embroidered T-shirts. The collection features 500 unique graphic designs by designer Roos and each T-shirt is produced in small quantities. Designs include lips, polka dots, TV screens and faces. Wholesale prices range from €45 (£38) to €48 (£41) and all the pieces are made in Italy.

Contact: 00 39 33 3686 8823 www.jimiroos.com

CRUNA

Italian trouser brand Cruna is extending its offering for spring 14. The menswear label launched in 2010 with a range of trousers, which aim to mix classic construction with modern twists such as dropped crotches and wide legs. For this season it has introduced jackets to allow consumers to create a complete tailored look. The single-breasted jacket comes in 20 different fabrics, which match the trousers. Wholesale prices range from €46 (£39) to €89 (£76).

Contact: 00 39 33 9657 0906 www.crunaitalia.com

DIRECTIONS I KIDSWEAR SPRING 14

Bubble London

MILK AND ROCK Winning the inaugural Rising Star competition at the show, Portuguese brand Milk and Rock joined Bubble for the first time, showing off its debut wholesale collection. The range takes inspiration from summertime with bold prints and deckchair-style designs on shirting, skirts and dungarees for boys and girls aged two to 10. Wholesale prices range from £10 to £22.

Contact: 00 351 936 010 990 www.milkandrock.com

Words by VICTORIA GALLAGHER

K Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 34

idswear show Bubble London may have suffered from coinciding with Father’s Day this year, with brands anecdotally noting a quiet Sunday.

However, Monday more than made up for it, as stands were inundated with interested buyers.

The spring 14 edition of the show presented more than 250 labels with a host of new brands bringing a sense of optimism.

To see more pictures of the kidswear brands on show at Bubble London, go to www.drapersonline.com/fashion

PIUPIUCHICK New to the UK, this Portuguese brand targets boys and girls aged three months to eight years.

The brand’s ethos is to create clothes for siblings, with four colour stories this season. Wholesale prices range from €15 to €35 (£13 to £30).

Contact: 00 351 923 497 102 www.piupiuchick.com

LILLY + SID For spring 14 this UK brand has introduced ‘sun-safe swimwear’, an all-in-one swimming costume that offers factor 50 sun protection.

Co-founder Imran Hassan said it had been well received as consumers are increasingly concerned about skincare. The suits come in ladybird, duck and zebra designs. The collection for boys and girls ranges from newborn to eight years old and also includes jerseywear, from T-shirts to dresses. Wholesale prices range from £3.50 to £15.

Contact: 01788 332278 www.lillyandsid.com

MILLIEMANU Launching at wholesale for spring 14, British brand Milliemanu makes all garments in the UK. Wholesale prices for the collection start at £3.99 for an accessory to £59.60 for the most expensive dress.

The brand has a collaboration with the charity Butterfly Conservation and has created a butterfly print dress featuring endangered insects. The range for boys and girls also includes shirts, shorts and dresses.

Contact: 020 8878 7863 www.milliemanu.com

ooooooH Attention grabbing in-store experiences that build brands, bring products to life and boost sales. At Intermarketing Agency, we know retail.

Please contact James Henry Head of retail +44(0) 113 275 3913 james.henry@intermarketing.co.uk intermarketing.co.uk

Drew Brady & Co Limited and Socks World International Limited are pleased to announce that they have amicably resolved their dispute in relation to Heat Holders and Feet Heaters branded thermal products.

Socks World have agreed to amend their packaging accordingly.

We are experts in: Design Digital ProDuction art Direction exPeriential set builD PHotograPHY Print management

CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here _ Deborah Davies The head of retail at heritage brand Really Wild Clothing Company has grown with the business

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 36

➝ What does your diary look

like today? Today is incredibly busy. We’re hosting a charity event at our flagship store in aid of The Willow Foundation, a charity that supports seriously ill people aged between 16 and 40, so we’re expecting a good day in terms of sales. I also have to fit in stock orders and ensure I respond to any issues or questions that come from our retailers because they are in the midst of our spring 13 selling season. I’m also planning ahead for the autumn 13 collection. And I assist Natalie [Lake, founder of Really Wild Clothing Company] with manufacturing specifications.

The days just fly by.

What event are you most looking forward to today? I’m looking forward to introducing some of the celebrities that will attend the charity event to the brand. It’s great to help them get the look they are after.

How did you get to where you are today? I began part-time when the company had just started, and as the company grew my role developed with it. I’m now involved with everything from the

➝

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manufacturing process to stock control, invoicing and selling to retailers.

What has been your career highlight? Meeting Prince William and Kate Middleton, when they shopped at our flagship store at the Royal Berkshire Shooting School.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? It would be to have maybe started working in the fashion industry earlier, rather than starting in banking after I left school. Having said that, my first Saturday job was working in a boutique earning £2 for the day, so maybe that put me off.

However, I love what I do now.

Who is your mentor? Natalie Lake is one of my mentors. She’s the one that has put faith in me and allowed me to grow.

What’s the best piece of advice she’s given you? The devil is in the detail.

How do you see your career progressing? Hopefully as we take on more retailers and increase sales I can carry on assisting Natalie with the

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CV 2004 Head of retail, Really Wild Clothing Company 2002 Shop manager, Really Wild Clothing Company 2000 Shop assistant, Royal Berkshire Shooting School 1998 Admin at Lane Fox Estate Agents 1986 Stockbrokers assistant, Charlton Seal 1979 Cashier/supervisor, Barclays Bank

manufacturing process and brand evolution. We get bigger all the time so my role is constantly evolving. We also have the new ready-to-wear collection launching, called London, which should see us expanding into the capital, a new market for us.

➝ What advice would you give

to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Work hard and look after the customers first and foremost, because they are your bread and butter. Then always be as helpful as you can to the retailers, even your smaller boutiques, because you should never forget where you came from.

If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? I’d quite like to be a personal shopper, because I like helping customers find outfits and clothing to suit them.

Salaries for this type of position normally range from £50,000 to £100,000, depending on the size of the business (estimate provided by Success Appointments)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

1 8

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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

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Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

NEW ROLE AVAILABLE, COTTON ON

GLOBAL DIRECTOR WOMENSWEAR THE COTTON ON GROUP HAS TAKEN THE SPIRIT OF OUR AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIAN CHARACTER TO THE GLOBE AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING VALUE FASHION BRANDS.

The Global Director – Womenswear will be responsible for:

Cotton On has an exceptional trajectory for growth.

Together we are a pretty optimistic bunch with a clear set of values. Our entrepreneurial spirit is what

has brought us to this point and we have big plans for the future.

We have a genuine belief in our brand, our ideas and our ability to bring them to life. Working side by side within the communities in which we operate, we strive to achieve great things.

If you are a passionate, product driven retail strategist who can demonstrate success of delivering a Womenswear business globally please contact Samantha Hogan on +61 424 750 828 or samh@cottonon.com.au

CONTACT INFORMATION: +61 424 750 828 SAMH@COTTONON.COM.AU COTTONON.COM.AU Design House UK Limited Design House is a leading manufacturer of ladies wear currently supplying major retailers in the UK.

AssistAnt AccoUnt MAnAger

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.

Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

We are an established supplier with a commercial presence on the high street looking for a talented Assistant Account Manager to join our Womenswear team in London. This is an exciting role that has brilliant growth opportunities with the potential for the candidate to develop within the company. This role will involve supporting a Senior Account Manager working to a critical path, liaising with overseas suppliers and clients to ensure that the critical path is adhered to. Strong admin and organisational skills are required as order information will need to be updated and managed at all times. A minimum of 2 years experience is essential at a similar role. The ideal candidate will enjoy working to deadlines and within a fast paced environment, be passionate, hard working and eager to progress in the fashion industry. This is a great role with exciting potential for the right person.

Please send cV by email to aydin@designhouseukltd.co.uk Alternatively send by post to; Aydin - Design House (UK) Ltd, 21 turle road, London, n4 3LZ.

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com

dh (UK) Limited

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Reporting to the Global General Manager of Cotton On, this newly created position forms part of the Cotton On Group and Cotton On brand’s Global Senior Leadership team.

Global product direction and sourcing Merchandising and range success Trend direction Supply chain and stock management Branding, marketing and customer engagement Profitability and cost control People development and succession planning International growth

JUNE 29 2013

This commitment to our customers has seen us rapidly expand with a portfolio of 9 brands, over 1030 stores in 13 countries and a workforce in excess of 17,000.

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Drapers /

We are unwavering in our pursuit to provide customers with the right to engage in fashion, at the right price.

v

Drapers /

JUNE 29 2013

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Nathalia Selfridges, Oxford Street, London

EXTRAORDINARY ASPIRATIONS? HEAD OFFICE OPPORTUNITIES LONDON, OXFORD STREET There’s nowhere quite like Selfridges. Our unique atmosphere, iconic stores and reputation for exceptional products and impeccable service has made us the world’s best department store. And so have our people. In head office, the talents of our Buying & Merchandising, Marketing, Property, HR, Online, Information Services and Finance teams come together to create the foundation for the unforgettable experiences we offer our customers. Enjoy an amazing experience of your own. Visit selfridgescareers.com to find out more about the roles on offer and to apply.

038399_285x226_Retail_management.indd 1

selfridgescareers.com

18/06/2013 12:23

the next big thing

DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU SEE IT? Based in the heart of Manchester

- Merchandisers | £25k-£30k - Product Managers | £25k-£30k - Merchandise Managers | c£50k - Product Selector | £25k-£35k - Assistant Merchandisers | £20k - QA Supervisors | £30k-£35k - Temporary Buyer | £35k-£40k pro rata At JD Williams, we’re very proud of our big brands, continued growth, highly profitable and successful multi-channel offer – online, on the high street and in catalogues. But in the fast-moving world of fashion retail, you can never stand still, which is why we’re rapidly changing to set the pace in our market.

Join us at this exciting time and you’ll enjoy the freedom to help shape the way we work and provide our 2.5 million customers with the best ranges around. Expanding our stores and growing internationally, we’re focusing more on customer segments, in season trading and mobile-centric retailing. We’ve huge plans for the future and we want you to be part of them.

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To apply, please visit:

Drapers /

JUNE 29 2013

www.jdwilliamsgroup.jobs

Do you need to talk about anything?

Do you understand Business?

Have you run your own fashion business?

•

• • •

We are looking for business people who have a Passion for Fashion and Creative businesses, available to start asap Desire and ability to support young designers/makers Excellent communication and people skills You will be a part of a London wide team of client facing business counsellors • The position is for a period of up to 12 months, but may be extended and has a remuneration of £30,000 pa.

This project is part-funded by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Email your CV with covering letter, indicating your specialism in this sector and how your experiences meet the above To: Jo Gent – Executive PA E: jog@smallbusinesscentre.org.uk

Totally free, confidential and independent

Closing date is: 10th July 2013

www.smallbusinesscentre.org.uk ELSBC is an equal opportunity employer

Outside UK +44 845 766 0113 Text HELPLINE to 88010* helpline@retailtrust.org.uk www.retailtrust.org.uk

Retail Trust is a registered charity in England and Wales (1090136) and in Scotland (SC039684) Company No 4254201 (Company limited by Guarantee) Registered in England and Wales Registered Office: Marshall Estate, Hammers Lane, London, NW7 4DQ *Only for UK. Standard network rates apply

RT_280X210mm_FLPG_DPRS_AD.indd 1

12:23

13/07/2011 14:19

ELSBC is a leading PRIVATE not-for-profit business support organisation helping people start-up and grow businesses across London since 1978.

_ 40 JUNE 29 2013

Drapers /

As the UK’s leading footwear brand on an exciting global journey, we’re on the lookout for talented designers to create best-selling shoes that’ll fly off our shelves. There’s no other footwear brand in the UK with such incredible facilities and design capabilities all under one roof.

See for yourself at www.pinterest.com/designatclarks

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Drapersjobs.com is also the perfect place to make your next fashion industry hire Call +44 (0)20 3033 2991 or +44 (0)20 3033 2985 Email Rebecca.Tonkinson@EMAP.com and Peter.Bruce-Smythe@EMAP.com

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com

Drapers /

JUNE 29 2013

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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior SALES EXECUTIVE / ACCOUNT MANAGER – HANDBAGS & FASHION ACCESSORIES LEEDS, WEST YORKSHIRE – Competitive based on experience + commission We are looking for a candidate to manage existing and develop new key accounts with larger high street and online retailers. The role is based at our head office in Leeds, with a requirement for assisting at relevant trade exhibitions. You will be a key link between our product development teams and end customer, as a candidate you will have an eye for fashion with experience in dealing with fabrics / textiles and leather.

SENIOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST - LUXURY LIFESTYLE BRAND LONDON, ENGLAND – GBP32000 - GBP40000 per annum Benefits This rapidly expanding luxury lifestyle brand is very well known across Menswear. They have now launched a Womenswear collection and are looking to recruit someone, who has extensive experience in the luxury fashion industry, as a Senior Garment Technologist. You will ensure all product meets the established quality standards.

A proven track record of setting and achieving quality standards is a must.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643019’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641658’

VARIOUS GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST ROLES MANCHESTER AND LEEDS – Salary £20,000 £30,000

DESIGN MANAGER NOTTINGHAMSHIRE – Competitive Salary We have an exciting opportunity for a Designer Manager to work for a progressive character license apparel company.

You will be identifying key trends for the season & interpreting into commercial ranges. Working closely with the senior creative management team to ensure all Designers follow the same creative identity. Ensuring the design process is in-line with the critical path and buying calendars. You must have a good knowledge of garment construction & quality procedures and an awareness of High Street character business/ trends.

We are currently recruiting for a number of assistant and garment tech roles in a variety of product areas from multi-product womenswear, menswear and kidswear to accessories, based in Manchester and Leeds. Our clients are suppliers to the UK high street. You have a fashion or textiles degree, or career path with a strong emphasis on the technicalities of garment or accessory development, with at least one year’s experience in a garment technologist or similar technical role and solid experience in garment or accessory construction methods, pattern-cutting, size grading, fabric and component testing. Excellent verbal and written communication skills and proven ability to work successfully with overseas and UK manufacturing are a necessary requirement.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642321’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642900’

MERCHANDISERS UK - VARIOUS – Competitive Salary DOE We have a number of exciting merchandising positions available with many of our key clients, across the UK. They are recruiting across the board from graduate to senior level and are looking for talented candidates looking to pursue or progress their career within Wholesale Merchandising. You must be a team player, a strong written communicator, self motivated with an excellent attention to detail.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642174’

JERSEY DESIGNER NORTH-WEST LONDON – Competitive basic + excellent benefits

It’s an exciting time to be a designer at Boden. The British clothing business founded in 1991 is now a global brand. As our customers’ needs change we’re moving our range on to make them feel more confident, connected and fashionable. We’re looking for a dynamic womenswear designer to develop an innovative but commercial jersey range – encompassing everything from casual to smart products. You’ll take inspiration from a variety of sources to ensure we offer our customers relevant clothing that keeps us a step ahead of our competitors.

As well as being up to speed with the relevant software – and a dab hand at Illustrator – you’ll also have good drawing skills. The successful candidate will also need a sound knowledge of fabrics and a good eye for colour. This is an ideal opportunity for someone with a degree in fashion and at least three years’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642056’

PRINT/TEXTILE DESIGNER (12 MONTH MATERNITY CONTRACT) NORTH-WEST LONDON – Competitive basic + excellent benefits

This is an ideal opportunity for someone with a degree in fashion textiles or print – and at least three years’ fashion industry experience – to take their career to the next level. As vintage prints are a key part of our signature style, we’re looking for someone with an excellent sense of colour which can be used to transform each design into a Boden original – from vintage florals to quirky conversational prints. You will already have a love for the brand and in addition, you’ll have fantastic drawing skills to be able to create new designs from a clear brief. On the commercial side, you should have a good understanding of print techniques & repeats. You’ll be competent in Illustrator, Photoshop, WORD and EXCEL – with knowledge of Texdesign a bonus (training will be given in this programme). If you can tick all these boxes, we’d like to hear from you. We’re prepared to consider a part-time role for the right person.

HEAD OF WHOLESALE LONDON – £Excellent

This senior position is with a high profile fashion brand and the person appointed will be responsible for the growth of the wholesale businesswithin the UK. As Sales Manager you will lead and manage sales teams and provide strategic direction and oversee new business opportunities. Agree marketing campaigns and provide sales forecasts and reports. In depth regional and national account management experience is required from a mid or premium ladies fashion brand.

The company offer an excellent remuneration.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2635391’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642720’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox

LECTURER IN CONTOUR FASHION LEICESTER – £31,331 to £34,223 pro rata, per annum We seek a Lecturer in the highly specialised area of Contour Fashion, who has academic experience in this area and who is able to contribute to the BA (Hons) Contour Fashion Degree. You should possess a degree in a relevant subject, preferably Contour Fashion and have a wide range of practical and theoretical skills relevant to the discipline.

You will need to be able to demonstrate both practical and subject expertise in lingerie, swimwear or corsetry, and have a proven record of industrial experience. The ability to teach at postgraduate level will be an advantage. The post is to cover maternity leave and will be initially for a fixed term period of 6 months. There may be the possibility of extension.

ACCOUNT MANAGER CENTRAL LONDON / WEST END (W1) – From £40,000 to £50,000 per annum + benefits

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641005’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641432’

PRODUCTION MANAGER LONDON – £30,000-£45,000 pro-rata, dependant on experience Epona is a small Fairtrade clothing company established in 2002 specialising in ethically produced leisurewear garments primarily aimed at the student market and now owned by the National Union of Students Ltd. We are looking for a Production manager who will effectively oversee the entire end to end process, design through to delivery, managing all aspects of the seasons ranges. The current Production manager manages working hours around school hours and this position is ideal for someone looking for an improved work life balance.

JUNIOR GARMENT DESIGNER/PRODUCT DEVELOPER DEVON – Competitive Exciting opportunity to join the small, friendly and dedicated team of our expanding clothing brand based in Devon. The successful applicant must have a great eye for colour and a keen interest in fashion and trend forecasting. Some technical knowledge of the garment production process will be a big advantage. A knowledge of Adobe Illustrator would also be beneficial but not essential

PERFORMANCE OUTDOOR CLOTHING DESIGN LEADER ST ALBANS, HERTFORDSHIRE (21 MINUTES FIRST CAPITAL CONNECT FROM LONDON ST PANCRAS) – Salary £competitive Dragonfly Venture LLP are one of the leading suppliers to the outdoor trade. We are looking to recruit an experienced senior designer for performance outdoor clothing. Leading the evolution and development of branded technical performance outdoor clothing product line to agreed development and commercialisation time-lines. Co-ordinating with brand manager, key customer and sales feedback and brand strategy in a focused structure. Candidates should have the following requirements, experienced working with technical outdoor performance clothing, and successful track record working in a credible outdoor branded environment. We are an extremely fast moving and reactive business working closely with key customers to meet and exceed market demands.

MERCHANDISE MANAGER HAMPTON WICK, WITH TRAVEL – £30,000 to £40,000 depending on skills & experience The role will involve initial factory sourcing and testing both locally and abroad, assessment of factories, maintaining positive relationships with existing suppliers and manufacturers at development stage, including price and exclusivity negotiations. You will manage branding needs including labels, print, garment branding etc,d determine factory allocation in line with style suitability, allocation and action of sample packs to manufacturers. In addition you will be expected to manage production fittings and establish sizing guidance, assess final make prices, liaise with raw material suppliers to ensure best flow to factories, create a critical path for targeted delivery dates and analyse production size sets. You will be required to ensure all products are within legislation guidelines for all shipping territories and ensure all suppliers and manufacturers are working within specified terms and conditions as well as review deliveries and work with logistics to ensure best product flow.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641883’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640130’

MANAGEMENT CONSULTANT – EXPERIENCED MERCHANDISERS BASED IN LONDON BUT WORKING ANYWHERE IN UK AND OVERSEAS – Salary Negotiable according to experience Kurt Salmon is a worldwide management consultancy with a powerful brand in retail consulting. For over 50 years Kurt Salmon has operated in the UK, building an enviable reputation as experts in retail and consumer products. Due to high demand for our deep expertise and unrivalled ability to partner with our clients to find sustainable solutions, we are seeking a number of people to work at Consultant and Senior Consultant levels, with a background in merchandising.You should have experience in managing product through the product lifecycle from the planning stage to in store and exit. You will have been responsible for building profitable ranges, perhaps across different channels and geographic / demographic regions. You will have experience of trading your business in season and of managing open to buy. Additionally, you will demonstrate an understanding of the need for cross functional ways of working across B&M, Operations, Marketing and Supply Chain.

Our London client is a fast growing on-line clothing retailer. They have a fantastic opportunity for an Assistant Garment Technologist to join their design led team, reporting into both the Senior Garment Technologist and the Garment Technologist.

Your role will be assisting the garment technologist, along with having the day to day responsibilities of managing your own styles. You must have ideally 2 years’ experience in childrenswear, managed fabric test reports and can independently manage at least 5 styles of your own. The successful candidate will need to be confident, resilient, proactive, and highly organised. Good communications skills are a must, as well as time and priority management. Attention to detail is paramount in all aspects of the job and good communication skills are essential.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641233’

ASSISTANT GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST LONDON – Dependent upon experience

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642590’

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_ 43 JUNE 29 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643027 ’

Drapers /

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642416’

We are high quality leather garments and accessories supplier for high street retailers. We are looking for an experienced Account Manager to join our head office in West London. You will be the main point of contact between the factory and customers to conduct sales activities and to provide excellent customer service. The candidates should be self-motivated, resourceful and have strong communication and marketing skills to achieve the sales targets. Experience on the customer side and a working knowledge of production process are a must, fitting knowledge is an advantage. We regret to note that due to volume, only shortlisted applicants will be contacted. If you do not hear from us we wish you the best of luck in the future.

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

JUNE 29 2013

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“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

Drapers /

t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

etailPR

AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG

PROVEN FASHION E-COMMERCE EXPERTS

Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

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CREATIVE DESIGN CONSULTANCY

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By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

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“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs.

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Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

Turkey CMT

Based in Corum, Turkey.

230 piece machine factory, working in cotton, stitching, ironed and packet goods.

Manufacturer of: Work Clothing - Men’s Trousers - Women’s Skirts - Police/Army Uniforms - Tactical Wear www.ortaanadolutekstil.com.tr www.yiltextactical.com 00905072659184

GARMENT LABELS

Halcyon Blue

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service?

We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts.

We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact: Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design

OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com

T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 NEW BUSINESS REQUIRED

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

www.drapersonline.com

Tel. 0048 502215339 Fax. 004868 4534854 wojciech.szwabowicz@classic-collection.pl http://www.classic-collection.pl/

JUNE 29 2013

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

Drapers /

SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics.

Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities.

Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

Drapers /

JUNE 29 2013

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Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Contact: 07903368616

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Notice board

JEANS BUTTONS

Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

STOCK WANTED

STOCK WANTED

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

To MESSRS

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

LININGS

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

AUTHORISED

EARN ££££’S TODAY

Always Wanted * Customer Returns * * QC Faults * * Samples * * End of Lines * All cash payments and garments de-labelled if required

Contact Laura 07950310304 or

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL...

• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

CALL NOW FOR IMMEDIATE ACTION

01923 800074

salvageliquidator12@gmail.com

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

Established 1973 Established 1973

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY

Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 8364 8859 AND020 ANYTHING stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – PAYMENT - Redundant - Overstock - Samples LSS Services 6 Orders - Returns - Unit Cancelled Atlas Business Centre Up to 10,000 units Oxgate Lane required per week.

London NW2 Minimum quantity 1007HJ units.

Tel: 020 8208 0404 Prices paid up to £2 per piece.

Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Joe 07815 355 355 stock@lssservices.co.uk

WANTED

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No minimum / maximum.

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01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

Childrens, Ladies and Mens.

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Tel: 020 8361 1444

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Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494 TO LET Showroom/Office Space available – Prime Location

Offering a small Fashion/Textiles showroom space (250 square feet) in London’s West End Available immediately Contact Tel. 07931 174682

GRADING

DATAGR AF LTD Creative Pattern Cutting

Providing the best service for our clients Commercially aware and bespoke High technical ability combined with creativity makes us the leaders in our field www.fashionworks.biz

07751702952 / 07905965305

Email: personnel@verso.uk.com ATTN: RETAILERS

Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

FREELANCE SERVICES

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

Lollipops Boutique 1

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

www.drapersonline.com

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

FOR SALE For sale surplus fabric, knitted, woven & PVC, trims & garments some retro. Plus machines and thread.

Good quality, variable amounts. 07791279083 textilefactorysurplusdr1@gmail.com

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

ZUPPE CLOTHING Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery.

Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

JUNE 29 2013

Drapers /

Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

_ 47

and Preppi.

PEOPLE I THIS FASHION LIFE

‘I’ve always wanted to create a high street collection but it feels like the right time now’ ➝ What advice do you have for designers

trying to break into the fashion industry?

You have to love it, and I mean really love it, because at 4am when you’re unpicking something you still have to love it. And if you love what you do, you will convey that to your friends and family and they’ll all help; you can never do it just by yourself.

Tell me about your Top Hat women’s collection for Debenhams. People were surprised at me doing a high street line but it is fantastic quality and I’m proud of it. Some of the hats are spectacular and others are for everyday wear – perfect for ‘what am I going to do with my hair on a rainy November morning’ moments.

Why did you decide to move onto the high street? I’ve always wanted to create a high street collection but it feels like the right time now. I felt the public wanted it too – enough people are now are wearing hats on a daily basis to warrant the range.

You always design such innovative creations – where do you get your inspiration from? Everyday things; I sort of live my life and turn it into a hat. This autumn’s collection is based on my time at Central Saint Martins. It was about coming to London and not knowing what to do and hoping you don’t appear like a complete fool. It’s something we all go through, every single one of us.

You’ve worked with some of the biggest names in fashion, so what has been your favourite collaboration to date?

Working with John Galliano for 17 years was really amazing. That time has passed but most people don’t get to experience something like that in their lifetime and it was extraordinary.

I’m always looking forward to the next thing; that’s the wonderful thing about fashion, we all have to reinvent ourselves every six months.

Everyone from Lady Di to Lady Gaga has donned your designs. Who wears them best? Dita Von Teese. For her every hat is like a little costume. I remember once she came into our shop and she picked up a baseball cap and said this would be great with a pair of cut-off jeans and red polka dot espadrilles in the summer for hitchhiking. And you can see her doing it.

Drapers / JUNE 29 2013 _ 48

➝

➝

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Stephen Jones

The legendary British milliner tells JILL GEOGHEGAN about teaming up with Debenhams and backing young talent You are curator of the British Fashion Council’s Headonism project, which celebrates emerging milliners. Why is it so important for you to support up-and-coming talent? Not to make me sound like grandpa, but it’s great to be able to show people the way and give them a window into the industry in a way that I didn’t have. It’s something that just came around a few years ago and I knew I had to get involved. I’m such a terrier; I picked up the bone and ran with it.

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