Drapers 31august2013 combined

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LIVE FAST, BUY YOUNG Short-order brands that will help you keep pace with the young fashion crowd SHOPWATCH Y-3 takes a

subtle approach in its second UK store / P18

BRANDWATCH Three of spring 14’s key menswear labels / P25

INTERNATIONAL Why online is a tricky issue for franchisors / P27

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August 31, 2013

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Hopes are high for colder winter to warm up sales

Autumn 13 sales get off to good start as retailers bet on outerwear, ankle boots and knitwear

By Drapers reporters

Retailers are praying for chilly weather this winter, after a promising start to sales for the season, with many pinning their hopes on ankle boots, autumnal knitwear and outerwear.

Hash Ladha, chief operating officer at Oasis, said autumn’s success would depend on the weather and how quickly spring 13 stock is cleared.

However, he added: “[Early] reaction to autumn stock is incredibly promising – we’ve got some great transition pieces such as sleeveless tops and light fabric tops in autumn colours, which are working really well.”

Paula Reed, fashion director at Harvey Nichols, said autumn sales had got off to a “tremendous start”, with all categories showing a positive increase on last year.

Knitwear and outerwear have had a “great reaction” so far, said Asos womenswear buying director Emma Fox. “these departments have actually been performing well throughout the summer and we will continue to back outerwear in a big way through autumn. Boots are also

Rain check: retailers are wishing for greater help from the weather this winter ALAMY

seeing strong initial reactions which we are excited about as we have plenty of new styles still to come through,” she said.

My-Wardrobe.com also experienced a strong start for ankle boots this season, with sales of premium brand Acne’s Pistol and Colt styles increasing 150% week on week in the last fortnight.

Maureen O’Brien, creative and buying director at womenswear retailer Joy, said dresses are still

“in the number one spot”, but she increased the chain’s buy of separates considerably for this season.

“We’ve really worked hard to nail some great-fitting trousers and the news from the stores has been very positive,” said O’Brien. “We are also having a very good reaction to all transitional product. Knitwear and coats haven’t really started to sell in the south although they are in our stores in scotland.”

Men’s entry-price formal footwear

is selling well at Jones Bootmaker.

Managing director Andrew White said there was a “pick-up in more daring styles” as male customers are “more willing to invest in colour.”

White added: “the timing could go against us for Christmas. Last year the holiday period suited us perfectly but some of the split from week 52 might go into week one of next year.

“My gut feeling is that autumn discounting won’t go early this year. Last year we went on sale at the end of November but assuming we have a good October, I want to push that back to December,” White said.

My-Wardrobe.com head of merchandising Amy Montague said it had been an “interesting start” to autumn, with the warmer weather proving challenging in planning winter stock. she added: “It’s terrible to say that I’m willing on the colder weather, but for any retailer it is important that the seasons follow as intended. Now we are excited about the colder weather so we can really showcase and sell our fantastic winter collections.”

Jaeger may ditch Boutique to focus on core offer

FRONt COVER IMAgE: BELLFIELD

By Catherine Neilan

Jaeger is considering dropping its Boutique by Jaeger sub-brand just three years after its launch.

Drapers understands Jaeger is looking to axe the brand as it looks to re-establish itself with its core customer. Boutique was launched for autumn 10 in Jaeger stores and concessions in John Lewis and House of Fraser, before a wholesale launch in spring 12. It was intended to help Jaeger compete with the likes of Whistles and Reiss.

It is thought the move plays into the strategy first put forward by

Recent revamp: Boutique opened a shop-in-shop in Jaeger’s flagship in May

previous chairman stewart Binnie, who said the business needed to focus on its “heartland” consumer.

Binnie stepped down from Jaeger in March, after just nine months at the helm. Last month, Jaeger appointed former Esprit chief product officer Colin Henry as chief executive.

Although Boutique, which retails at a price about 30% lower than premium sub-brand Jaeger London, will continue to run to spring 14, a spokeswoman confirmed the team was reviewing its continuation for autumn 14 but no decision had been made.

It is thought jobs could be affected as a result. However, the spokeswoman said there would be no redundancies at this stage. she declined to comment on what would happen if the brand was dropped or on the number of staff employed solely to work on Boutique.

In May, Jaeger revamped the second floor of its Regent street flagship store in London to create the Boutique gallery, where it sells emerging British labels alongside Boutique pieces. A jersey Boutique top retails for £50 and a quilted leather jacket for £299.

August 31 2013 /

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NEWS

Basler ready for retail push following MBO

By Victoria Gallagher Modern approach: Lyle & Scott on hunt

Lyle & Scott tweets for a new UK boss

Lyle & Scott has launched a Twitter campaign to find its next UK head following the departure of managing director Derrick Campbell earlier this year.

The heritage brand kicked off the campaign with a tweet on Thursday morning for the position, which will command a salary of £250,000.

The tweet, which linked to a job advert, read: “Wanted: #CEO for our iconic British fashion brand. £250k basic salary. Corporate Journeymen need not apply.”

Lyle & Scott is working with headhunter Beringer Tame on the social media campaign. It is thought to be the first time a brand has embarked on such a strategy to fill a top-level position.

In the linked job advert, the brand said it is looking for someone with experience of growing international sales. Patrick Tame, owner of Beringer Tame, said the alternative search for a boss was “an excellent way of spreading the net far and wide and inviting talent into the process from less obvious quarters”.

Campbell left Lyle & Scott in April after eight years in the role.

Basler chairman Hans Maret said the management buyout of the German womenswear brand has “cleared the path for development”, with retail expansion topping the to-do list.

Last week, Basler’s management team signed an agreement to take over all shares in the business from private equity owner Triton, following negotiations with both parties and Basler’s banks.

In February, Basler’s debts were reduced from €215m (£185m) to €80m (£69m) after its creditor banks granted the brand a debt haircut. Triton also gave the business a new €10m loan this year, allowing Basler to invest in its network of standalone stores.

Maret said the refinancing deal, loan and MBO have helped to secure Basler’s finances and “cleared the path for development”.

Chief executive Reiner Unkel added: “The new positioning of Basler as a brand name and its

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

Reiner Unkel, chief executive, Basler

By Suzanne Bearne

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‘This agreement gives us a sound structure for the implementation of our strategy’

told Drapers the MBO would be a good move for the brand, providing it with further capital to invest in its offering. “It is a much more sound business,” he said.

“The company has always been profitable with a turnover of €170m (£145m) but has not been able to maintain its profit because it had such a big interest burden.”

He added: “It will free them up to consider their options, whether they are going to invest into retail openings, their product or their wholesale operations.”

The brand has been moving towards retail in the UK. In 2007, 100% of Basler’s UK business was wholesale; however, in the year to October 31, 2012, Basler’s UK business was made up of 53% retail and 47% wholesale.

Although the UK arm of the company still made a loss, it was reduced by around £400,000 to £922,300. Turnover during the year dropped slightly from £14.4m to £14.9m.

Fielding Group sticks its oar into lifestyle brand

For an interview with Lyle & Scott’s Richard Martin, turn to p40

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further internationalisation have taken us onto the right path. This agreement gives us a sound financial structure, which allows for the consequent implementation of our chosen strategy.”

Since Triton acquired Basler in 2006, the brand has ramped up its retail strategy, growing its stores and concessions from five to 120 across the UK, US, Russia and Australia.

It has eight stores in the UK and 187 stockists, including womenswear boutique Anne Furbank in St Neots, Cambridgeshire, and department store Browns of York.

A source close to the situation

Starting gate: Roll & Yaw wants to capitalise on success of British rowers

The Fielding Group is to launch a rowing-inspired lifestyle brand after the supplier’s holding company, Monitane Holdings, received a significant stake from investment vehicle Ellestone Apparel.

Roll & Yaw, targeting men and women in their early 20s to 40s, will launch initially as a short-order brand in March for spring 14 ahead of annual rowing event Henley Royal Regatta. The formal and casualwear collection will include polo shirts, sweatshirts, dresses and blazers. Wholesale prices will range from £20 for polo shirts to £120 for a men’s signature blazer.

Damian Hopkins, director at The Fielding Group, which supplies high

street retailers and brands including Tesco, John Lewis and Nike, said it will target independent retailers and high-end department stores in the UK, Europe and the US. Hopkins said: “The brand is our brainchild following the success of British rowing and my own happy memories of Henley. A lot of people at Henley told us there were no brands for rowers. The beauty of this brand is that it will target those in their early 20s and stretch to people in their 40s and 50s.”

As a result of the undisclosed investment, Hopkins said The Fielding Group would appoint a new chairman in the next month and invest in more manufacturing facilities overseas.

BHS cull continues at out-of-town sites

Direction: Reiner Unkel (top) said Basler is on the right path

BHS’s store portfolio is to reduce further as its owner Arcadia looks to offload a chunk of the retailer’s out-of-town stores.

The department store chain has reportedly appointed property agent CBRE to dispose of nine stores.

Arcadia is hoping to sell off stores at Mallard Road Retail Park in Bournemouth; St James Retail Park in Knaresborough, North Yorkshire; Fosse Shopping Park in Leicester; St Marks Retail Park in Lincoln; Parc Trostre in Llanelli, south Wales; Octagan Retail Park in Stoke-on-Trent; Cardiff Bay Retail Park in Grangetown, south Wales; Westwood Retail Park near Broadstairs in Thanet and Monks Cross Shopping Park in York. The out-of-town units range in size from 39,338 sq ft to 20,172 sq ft.

BHS’s property portfolio has been gradually reducing over the last few years. Earlier this month, Primark took over two stores. The value chain plans to move into BHS’s Bath and Canterbury stores early next year.

In 2010 Sir Philip Green sold off 10 leases to Primark. A BHS spokeswoman said: “We are always looking to reshape the [BHS] portfolio.”

Hugo Boss to rein in UK retail growth

By Jill Geoghegan

Hugo Boss will slow down its retail expansion in the UK after reporting an 18.2% rise in sales in the territory.

UK sales rose to £147.5m for the year to December 31, 2012. Sales in the wholesale division, which accounts for about 30% of turnover, totalled £48.4m compared with £99m in Hugo Boss UK’s retail arm.

This compares with a 60/40 sales split between retail and wholesale respectively in 2011. The increase in 2012 was attributed to the acquisition of 15 former Moss Bros franchise stores acquired on April 1, 2011 and the company’s programme of new store openings. Hugo Boss UK opened four standalone stores in 2012 in Knightsbridge in London, Edinburgh, Belfast and Nottingham.

Pre-tax profit was flat at £16.5m in

Dressed for success: Hugo Boss sees womenswear as a major opportunity

2012, compared with £16.6m in 2011 due to investment in new stores.

But managing director Stephan Born, who was appointed last month, said that although Hugo Boss will continue its roll-out of new stores in 2014, it will do so only on a very

selective basis, adding that its expanding retail footprint will be much less than in the last 18 months.

The brand has 56 concessions and stores in the UK and 270 stockists.

Regarding wholesale expansion, Born added: “There is still potential in the UK market but distribution needs to fit the brand positioning.

It must be a win-win.”

Born said he was confident about autumn and that womenswear held “untapped potential”.

He said: “I plan to keep the momentum going and build on the recent performance; womenswear is a key pillar for growth. Until now we’ve grown it in line with the rest of the business, but this will change over the next few years as it represents a huge opportunity for Hugo Boss.”

News in brief Matalan to launch sports fascia Intersport Sporting Pro, a subsidiary of Matalan Retail, has signed a deal to open six UK stores. The sportswear retailer will open standalone stores of 10,000 sq ft in September at the Colton Retail Park in Leeds and the Riverside Retail Park in Coleraine, Northern Ireland. Former JJB Sports chief executive Tom Knight has been appointed as managing director of Intersport Sporting Pro to spearhead the project.

Sports Direct on track for FTSE 100 Sports Direct is set to join the FTSE 100 for the first time since it floated on the London Stock Exchange in 2007.

The retailer’s surging valuation has put it on course to jump from the FTSE 250 to the top flight next month.

FTSE Group ranks those listed on its indices according to their market value.

Boohoo considering flotation Fashion etailer Boohoo.com is reportedly looking at listing on the London Stock Exchange as it seeks to emulate the success of Asos. The company is working with private equity firm Zeus Capital, an investor in Boohoo, to explore options including a possible sale of the business. The etailer grew its pre-tax profits by 79% to £248,790 for the year to 29 February, 2012, with sales up to £29m.

Joules puts boot into John Lewis British lifestyle brand Joules is to launch its first welly pop-up shop in John Lewis’s Oxford Street store.

The pop-up will be open from August 31 to September 15 in the women’s footwear department.

Marseille opening for Ted Baker Ted Baker is increasing its French footprint with its first opening outside Paris. The 2,600 sq ft store will open in Marseille at Les Terrasses du Port retail scheme, which opens next May. The retailer has two stores in Paris, in the Marais and St Germain districts, as well as three concessions in department store chain Galeries Lafayette.

Sales to top £5bn on Oxford Street Oxford Street will generate £5bn in sales for the first time this year as footfall increased 1.4% in the first half of 2013. Sales on Oxford Street for the first six months of 2013 were up 6.2% year on year, with a longer-term Olympic effect credited with the rise in fashion sales. Retailers are also expecting a £40m sales boost during the Oxford Street Fashion Showcase, a series of events which will be held from September 1 to 17 to celebrate London Fashion Week.

AUGUST 31 2013 /

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News

Pockets makes Nantwich return

Hub show targets more Brit brands Asian trade show the Hub plans to add an extra 50 brands to its line-up next year, following a strong start to its inaugural event this week.

Organiser Richard Hobbs told Drapers the show, which took place from August 28 to 30 at Asia World Expo in Hong Kong, had come in at the top end of expectations with 100 brands exhibiting and up to 3,000 buyers from mainland China, taiwan and Hong Kong expected to attend. the team is now targeting 150 brands for the February 2014 show.

Hobbs will be in Europe for the next few weeks to meet with brands and said he has already met at least a dozen British brands. “If people aren’t thinking about how to develop their business in Asia they need their heads examining,” he said.

Barbour and Henri Lloyd were among the British brands to exhibit this month. government department uK trade & Investment gave grants of £3,000 to 10 brands to help them exhibit. this is expected to rise to 15 to 20 brands for the February show.

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Hong Kong men’s swimwear brand Made in Paradise will launch in the UK early next year, targeting premium indies and department stores. The spring 14 collection features motifs including logos of defunct airlines and designs based around board games. The trunks wholesale for US$55 (£35.46) with an RRP of $110 (£70.93).

Brands’ retail empires are another nail in our coffin, say angry indies By anna matheson

Independents are re-evaluating their offers as a growing number of brands expand via standalone stores.

Last week, Dutch young fashion brand scotch & soda said it would open stores across key uK cities.

Retailers told Drapers that scotch & soda’s strategy is part of a trend among some brands to move away from smaller accounts, putting pressure on stockists to compete with brands’ online and bricks-andmortar stores.

Yvette Davies, owner of contemporary womenswear retailer thirty three Boutique in Lymington, Hampshire, described the move by brands as “another nail in the coffin for indie boutiques”. she added: “You can’t compete with that sort of thing and the range they have.”

Denise Potter, owner of contemporary womenswear boutique Darcy B, which has two stores in suffolk, said there is a lack of trust felt by indies towards certain suppliers: “We’re not being shown much loyalty by some of the brands. It’s tougher and tougher on indies to find labels that are exclusive.”

Competition: brands’ appetite for opening standalone stores continues to grow

Matt Horstead, owner of menswear store Dartagnan in Chichester, West sussex, said he saw a decline in sales of Hugo Boss when the brand opened an outlet store nearby two years ago. Horstead said: “It took a massive dent – almost 40% on what our business was and we’ve still not recovered.” some retailers are increasingly feeling pressured to compete with brands online. One womenswear indie owner said she has now altered her strategy for dealing with brands that have developed ecommerce operations. “We’re trying not to stock

any brands that are in department stores or have their own websites – they lose focus on the wholesale,” she said.

Nick Benn, owner of young fashion retailer Northridge Clothing in sheffield, said he had been forced to reduce prices on products in a bid to match the lower prices on brands’ own websites. “they do reductions, which means we have to drop the sale [prices] a lot more,” he said.

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INFOMATIQUE

Menswear retailer Pockets is to open a store in Nantwich in October that will be more than double the size of its previous shop in the Cheshire town. the 1,800 sq ft store, on Pillory street, will occupy two floors and stock the same brands as Pockets’ other four stores, including Canali, Paul smith, stone Island, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss and Eton.

It will open in the first week of October and replaces Pockets’ smaller 800 sq ft Nantwich store, which closed earlier this summer.

Pockets managing director Paul Platt said: “When we were offered this new store in the finest part of town we jumped at the chance.” the company, which is now in its 17th year, recently revamped its original shrewsbury outlet, doubling its size to 3,500 sq ft and opening a new floor dedicated to Ralph Lauren.

Pockets’ other stores are in Hanley, Worcester and Newcastleunder-Lyme.

made in paradise taking aim at Uk

Primark earmarks five sites for France launch

By Catherine neilan

Primark is planning to take more than 233,000 sq ft of retail space in France in the next 12 months, Drapers can reveal. the value giant has so far identified five stores that will open from December this year, with the last opening in June 2014.

Primark will make its French debut in Marseille just before Christmas. the 62,800 sq ft store, in the grand Littoral shopping centre, will be the retailer’s French flagship.

Primark’s second store will open in Dijon, at the toison d’Or shopping centre, in February. It will be its third largest at 44,200 sq ft. the remaining three stores will be in Paris, with two opening in March: a 37,400 sq ft store in the O’Parinor mall, and 47,000 sq ft store in the Villeneuve-la-garenne shopping centre. In June, Primark will open a 42,100 sq ft store in Paris’s Créteil soleil scheme.

It is not clear whether there are plans to open more stores, although it is believed this marks the initial stage in the company’s French strategy.

Primark’s parent company Associated British Foods (ABF) first confirmed its plans to enter France this April.

At the time, ABF chief executive george Weston said the success of competitors such as H&M, Zara, C&A and New Look had given

LK Bennett owners consider sale Premium womenswear retailer LK Bennett could be sold for more than £100m. The chain’s owners, private equity firms Phoenix Equity Partners and Sirius, are understood to have approached advisors to help prepare a sale. The two firms bought a 70% stake in LK Bennett in 2008 in a deal thought to be worth £100m.

Michael Kors heads to Canary Wharf Women’s designer label Michael Kors will open in the Jubilee Place Shopping Mall in Canary Wharf in November. Other brands also confirmed for a winter opening in the London shopping centre are Banana Republic, Cos, men’s swimwear brand Orlebar Brown, Oliver Bonas and shirt brand Emmett London.

Cheap chic: Primark is hoping its offer will win over fashionable French teenagers

management “reason to believe it is worth having a go”.

He said: “they are all running significant numbers of stores in France and we think ‘why shouldn’t we be there too?’.”

‘H&M, Zara, C&A and New Look are all in France – why shouldn’t we be there too?’

George Weston, chief executive, ABF

“Clearly the French teenager is fashionable. We are told that in France there are people with more of a tendency to buy single classic items and then accessorise around them, but we will wait to see what happens.”

Primark has 256 stores across eight countries including the uK, germany, spain and the Netherlands. Of the 256 stores, 160 are in the uK and 38 in the Republic of Ireland.

Primark sales grew 20% in the 16 weeks to June 22, fuelled by a rise in retail space and strong like-for-likes.

Middle East shoppers spend big in UK

Prize customers: shoppers from the MIddle East spent an average of £794

News in brief

Visitors from the Middle East have been the biggest spenders per shopper in the uK so far this year, accounting for 26% of total tax-free spend in the uK. According to a report from tax-free shopping company global Blue, international spend by shoppers from the Middle East was up 17% for the six months to July 31, with Qatar and Kuwait leading the way with year-on-year growth of 29% and 28% respectively.

For a Middle Eastern shopper, the

average spend per transaction was £794, yet Qatari shoppers spent almost double that, with an average of £1,423. gordon Clark, uK country manager of global Blue, said Middle Eastern shoppers are coming to the uK for designer brands.

Clark said stores were capitalising on the spending power of Middle East customers by offering later store opening hours and female Arabicspeaking staff, measures which “all help to drive spend in the uK”.

Averyl Oates joins Galeries Lafayette Former Harvey Nichols fashion buying director Averyl Oates has been appointed as fashion director and deputy commercial director of French department store group Galeries Lafayette. Oates, who left Harvey Nichols in January 2012 and was commercial director at luxury etailer Luxup until it closed in March this year, will oversee the men’s, women’s, accessories and kidswear departments.

Anya Hindmarch opens NYC flagship Luxury accessories label Anya Hindmarch has opened a flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York, replacing its East 60th Street store.

The two-storey flagship showcases a new retail concept for the label, with the store designed to look like a design studio. The 2,000 sq ft store will stock both seasonal and bespoke collections.

Matalan to recruit at careers day Young fashion label Ringspun and value chain Matalan are among the recruiters to have signed up to social networking site Manchester Fashion Network’s Fashion Careers Day on October 2. The event will give graduates, students and anyone looking for a change of career the opportunity to meet potential employers.

Off-Price Show reveals line-up The Off-Price Show has revealed the line-up for its September edition, as the discount exhibition expands to include a larger range of stock.

Wholesalers showcasing at the event, which will take place at Olympia in London on September 22 and 23, include sportswear-focused Room31 Wholesale and Ski and Sport, and footwear wholesaler Patrick Shoes.

August 31 2013 /

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NEWS News

Rockport exploits local skills in women’s revamp

By Jill Geoghegan

Footwear brand Rockport has significantly refined its women’s collection after the appointment of designer Roberta Rossi as artistic director.

Rossi joined the women’s footwear team in the newly created role in January, following the opening of the company’s new design studio in Padua, Italy. the spring 14 range will be the first to display Rossi’s influence by tapping into the tradition of women’s shoe making in the province of Padua, while retaining the casual style of the brand. the collection will feature a colour palette of cool blues, earth tones, navy, fuchsia and acidic yellows. Wholesale prices range from £23.90 to £42.

Daniel tschuemperlin, chief marketing officer at Rockport, said the new design studio venture would transform the brand’s women’s business.

Retailers clash on zero-hours contract issue

By Suzanne Bearne

Tapping into tradition: spring 14 styles

He said: “We will energise and elevate our women’s offering through this strategic move, tapping into the insights and unparalleled expertise of women’s luxury shoe design in the Padua region.”

Rockport has 300 stockists in the uK and Republic of Ireland and two standalone stores, on south Molton street in London and Wicklow street in Dublin.

Independent retailers are split over the use of zero-hours contracts, with some boutiques heralding them as beneficial to both the employer and the employee, while others have called the controversial practice a “disgrace”.

Last month it emerged that many retailers, including sports Direct, were employing staff on zero-hours contracts. the contracts mean employees are effectively on-call whenever the store needs cover, but have no guaranteed hours and face uncertain income as a result.

Companies employing workers on such contracts, which do not provide sickness or holiday pay, have come under fire for exploiting staff. the Labour MP for Corby in Northamptonshire, Andy sawford, has submitted a private members’ bill to try to ban the contracts.

A number of retailers have admitted to hiring staff on a combination of fixed hours and zero-hours contracts.

Donna Ida thornton, owner of four-store women’s denim retailer

Donna Ida, said 10% of her staff are employed on zero-hours contracts and the arrangements work for both her and the staff.

“When it’s quieter in August we might want to dial it down and other times they might want to dial it up. It works both ways. the key about this is to be open about everything from the start.”

Premium womenswear boutique Eternal Envy in Heaton Moor, stockport, is currently advertising a zero-hours contract position.

Owner Maria telfs said such a contract offers flexibility to both the employee and herself.

“We are taking on a second shop on a temporary basis with a view to long term. It’s uncharted territory and we’re not sure how many staff we need. It also works out well for them. When they’re at university they have a lot of free time so it works out well for all parties. It’s the perfect solution for small businesses.”

Clare serjeant, owner of womenswear store Fox + Feather in Bristol, wrote to Drapers last week highlighting the benefits of the contracts to her business and staff.

Brit footwear brands step into China

ManGo MEn’S caMpaiGn haS all-aMErican look

The Sartorialist blogger, Scott Schuman, has shot the HE by Mango campaign for autumn 13. Inspired by US vintage styles, the range includes pea coats, chinos and chambray shirts. The menswear line is in more than 100 Mango stores worldwide, but there are plans for it to be in 500 within the next few years.

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ten British footwear brands will exhibit at Micam in shanghai for the first time, following investment from the uK government.

Labels including Kat Maconie, Base London, gola and steptronic will make their debuts in China at the October trade show in the British Footwear Association’s (BFA) British Edition area. the government’s uK trade & Investment department is providing support for brands hoping to break into emerging markets. Each label can apply for a grant of up to £3,000.

John saunders, BFA sales and marketing director, said the Chinese

market is increasingly important for the British footwear industry.

He added: “smaller companies are looking at how they can exploit this highly lucrative market and showing collectively under the British Edition banner is a great opportunity to give it a go, as individually the brands could get lost at a show of this size.” saunders added that Micam in Milan remains a “major focus” and was positive about the decision to move the dates of the Milan show forward by two weeks in autumn 14.

He added: “the lead time for shoes is getting longer as more production is based in the Far East.”

Drapers awards to support FTCT

Zero tolerance: 20,000 Sports Direct staff are on the contracts

“I’ve found that many people prefer to be on a zero-hours contract so they can pick and choose when they want to work or do zero hours if they choose,” she said.

However, many indies are against the use of the contracts.

One vocal opponent is Jo Davies, owner of premium womenswear indie Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire, who described the use of them as a “disgraceful way to treat people”.

She added: “I am strongly against them. How can I expect my staff, who are the lifeblood of my

business, to show me loyalty and commitment if I can’t do the same to them?”

John Reid, owner of Bristol luxury retailer Garment Quarter, said: “I personally don’t feel it is fair but I can understand why indies would use them. It helps keep costs down.

I like to at least guarantee that employees have something in terms of salary and holiday.”

Steve Turner, executive director for policy at trade union Unite, called for “urgent action” to curb the use of “exploitative zero-hours contracts”.

The Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust (FTCT) will be Drapers’ chosen charity at both its industry awards ceremonies this autumn.

FTCT will be the beneficiary of a range of fundraising activities at the Drapers Independents Awards lunch on November 7 and the Drapers Awards gala black tie dinner on November 21. The charity is dedicated to assisting the needy children of people who work in the textile and fashion sectors with financial grants.

Drapers editorial director Eric Musgrave said: “This excellent charity dates back to the Victorian era and in recent years some very able trustees including ex-Boxfresh chairman David Carter-Johnson and Topman’s David Shepherd have kept it very relevant to modern society.

“Not long ago, a distant contact of my own family was a beneficiary of a grant that positively changed the life of a teenager who had been dealt a rough hand. The FTCT does really great work and I hope attendees at our awards really get behind the charity’s fundraising efforts.”

Drapersonline.com stories this week MOST READ Lukewarm reception for M&S campaign Ex-M&S executive Kate Bostock to head Coast M&S reviews vacant head office roles Boohoo goes on hiring spree John Lewis hit by £40m bill for unpaid staff costs SuperGroup directors to pick up six-figure bonuses M&S hit by glitches at distribution centre House of Fraser considers stock market return Primark takes BHS Canterbury store

MOST COMMENTED Lukewarm reception for M&S campaign Director faces jail on VAT fraud charges Ex-M&S executive Kate Bostock to head Coast M&S autumn 13 campaign – the verdict Comment: Should indies just sit quietly and accept a bad deal?

Helping kids: fundraising at awards

McArthurGlen launches global denim campaign

By Victoria Gallagher

McArthurGlen has splashed out €4m (£3.4m) on its first worldwide advertising campaign to promote its denim offer, following strong sales in the category.

The Art of Denim advertising drive is the designer outlet retailer’s first international campaign, as well as its first category promotion.

The campaign, which will launch on August 31, will feature events at each of McArthurGlen’s 21 outlets, including specially created denim hubs with tailoring and styling services, as well as

Denim stylist award: McArthurGlen is to run a competition with Elle magazine

further savings on denim lines.

The campaign will run across print, digital and outdoor advertising in Europe, Brazil, China, Russia and South Korea before it finishes on November 5.

It will also feature in a special 12-page supplement in international editions of October’s Elle magazine in countries including the UK, Germany, the Netherlands and Greece, which will look at the history of denim and include style tips.

The partnership with Elle will also see McArthurGlen launch The Art of Denim Award, a competition

to find the best denim stylist in all the participating countries.

McArthurGlen chief executive Julia Calabrese said: “The campaign is about making shopping fun and stimulating.”

Denim proved a strong category at McArthurGlen last year, with more than 5 million pieces of denim, nearly 600 per hour, sold during the year across its outlets.

The retailer has seven UK centres: Swindon, York, Ashford, Bridgend in Wales, Ellesmere Port in Cheshire, South Normanton in Derbyshire and Livingston in Scotland.

AUGUST 31 2013 /

Drapers

7

PEOPLE

u DANCING SHOES ARE MADE IN CHELSEA The SW3 glitterati were out in force at Harvey Nichols to celebrate Made in Chelsea star Oliver Proudlock’s (right) collaboration with footwear brand Oliver Sweeney.

Guests sipped champagne to music from Matt Woods (far right), Rufio Summers, Mikill Pane and DJ IQ, as dance troupe Wet Wipez raised temperatures on the shop floor.

Off the Record

Shoes were Made in Chelsea, Bestseller put on a show, two City slickers scored in Manchester and Hush Puppies got snappy t BESTSELLER THROWS A HOUSE PARTY Danish brand stable Bestseller got in the party spirit to celebrate its swish new showroom, appropriately located on London’s Fashion Street.

Topman’s Adam Jagger and the Oliver Bonas team sipped cocktails with host Anders Holch Povlsen, owner of Bestseller. A quick drink turned into dancefloor shenanigans for Drapers’ Catherine Neilan (left) and Graeme Moran, and an after-party at pub Beach Blanket Babylon meant there were a few sore heads the next day.

u UNITED MANCHESTER Harvey Nicks in Manchester saw the unlikely spectacle of dandruff shampoo model and Man City goalie Joe Hart walking the runway for his teammate Joleon Lescott’s fashion label Lescott Stewart. Big J also strutted his heavily muscled thighs for the brand, which he runs with his older brother Aaron and friend Jordan Stewart.

As our 1968 pic of Man U’s George Best and City’s Mike Summerbee shows, there is a long tradition of soccer style in Manchester.

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Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

q HUSH PUPPIES SNAPS TO IT Hush Puppies launched a bank holiday pop-up, Dog Days, at Truman’s Brewery in Shoreditch – but without a single shoe on sale. Instead, this was a celebration of analogue photography including an exhibition and the chance to hire a 35mm film camera and have a print from your efforts developed in an on-site darkroom. Drapers snuck its digital camera inside to snap Hush Puppies’ Michelle Nand (left) and Julie Bradbury at the opening party.

SO LONG SOPHIE...

After seven years at Fourmarketing, PR superstar Sophie Homes has decided to swan off to sunny Los Angeles.

She threw a boozy goodbye at a London pub last week, where a who’s who of the industry waved her off. Does anyone know if she made her flight the next morning? Good luck Sophie.

Ø

GOING TO A GOOD PARTY? Send your industry gossip to drapersletters@emap.com

Inspired by the artwork of Daniele Buetti, with his kind authorization- Photo : G. Defaix

17-19 September 2013 Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com autumn winter 1415 - The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ N E W

Y O R K

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S Ã O

P A U L O

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P A R I S

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M O S C O W

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S H A N G H A I

OPINION

Talking Business

‘Smarter retailing is in hand with tablets’

Comments from Drapersonline.com ‘Former Marks & Spencer executive Kate Bostock to head Coast’ – What a great appointment. Fantastic for Coast and fantastic for Kate Anonymous ‘Lukewarm reception for M&S campaign’ – Need to get the offer right, then build a campaign to support it. Too focused on the packaging and not enough on the content Anonymous Their core customer in the local high streets would rather the money be spent on lowering the retail price or upping the quality.

If by having models like Helen Mirren they think they will grab the more affluent 60-plus woman, they are mistaken as she already left to shop elsewhere some years back Anonymous M&S isn’t aspirational. There may come a time when a campaign like this is right for them, but that certainly isn’t now Anonymous ‘Comment: M&S autumn 13 campaign, the verdict’ – The customer doesn’t care who wears it unless they are not age appropriate, as in young girls modelling for 40-plus women.

They just want good quality clothes that fit. It’s not rocket science Anonymous ‘Comment: Should indies just sit quietly and accept a bad deal?’ – I know buyers from a number of multiples and as an indie it always surprises me how much many brands are prepared to give, in terms of extended payment terms, off-invoice discount, retrospective discount, markdown financial help, holding seasonal stock on an if-needed basis, and paid adverts in store mags; some brands make little profit from trading with the big boys but feel they have to be there Anonymous ‘Etailers must not fall foul of new consumer law’ – Ironic that the clothing trade is consistently tightening up its returns policy to their retailers, yet this new directive goes into a completely opposite direction Anonymous

10

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

R

etailers have begun to get switched on to the idea that bringing tablet computers onto the shopfloor can help them tap into a smarter way to keep tabs on their product mix, stock levels, returns and orders.

What’s more, tablets enable staff to carry out multi-functional tasks – from one device they can not only manage stock, but also carry out staffing tasks like timesheeting through to taking in-store customers online to view the season’s full collection.

In the fashion-conscious environment, Apple iPads have seemed the default choice, but buying multiple devices per store can soon add up to a cost that isn’t going to make the finance director very ‘appy’. So it’s

Robin Coles

Head of product strategy at retail IT consultancy Retail Assist

interesting to see that Google’s Nexus device is emerging as a real alternative, and at a price that could halve the investment required to get the store tapped into this technology.

We are currently piloting the use of our Merret supply chain software services using the Google Nexus device on behalf of a high street fashion retailer, and we anticipate roll-out across the estate in early 2014.

At the same time we continue to look at how new kids on the block such as Microsoft Surface could also provide retailers with alternative ways to connect their IT across multichannel retail.

Despite these new options, we still love our iPads and recognise that the brand appeal of Apple can add to the retailer’s own brand and in-store experience, which could be a factor in choosing which device to arm staff with.

Retailers looking to up-spec their shopfloor kit might want to remind the finance director that even as the expensive option, iPads can be half the cost of a hand-held payment terminal, so switching to tablets could be an easier pill to swallow to tap into next-generation retailing IT.

Talking Shop

‘Pop-ups bring personality to the high street’

A

s our business continues to grow, we are focusing on exciting retail opportunities to complement our online store and farm shop concession at Blacker Hall Farm near Wakefield.

We’ve been surprised at the number of opportunities there are in West Yorkshire, and one of the most inspiring is Wood Street Market in Wakefield.

The new initiative is a community-led event that takes place monthly throughout the summer. Retailers and brands have been ‘popping up’, drawing in crowds and adding personality, theatre and excitement to Wakefield’s empty shop units.

We’ve really enjoyed working with a talented group of likeminded people who have executed a quality community

Claire Harper

Founder of kidswear etailer IndiaCoco

event. It has also been very encouraging to see local independent businesses working in partnership with the local council and landlords to make this event a great success.

The response to IndiaCoco’s Wood Street pop-up has been fantastic, and it is exciting to receive the keys to a shop and transform it.

Displaying our collection of vibrant, quality ‘Best of British’ brands really helps to bring our

IndiaCoco name to life. Having a pop-up shop gives us the opportunity to deliver outstanding customer service one to one and demonstrate the warmth, passion and commitment that shine through in everything we do.

The landscape of retail is constantly changing and it’s hugely inspiring to see councils pulling together with landlords, small businesses and local people to support new, emerging etailers like IndiaCoco.

This project is a great example of what can be achieved by bringing together talented, passionate people who share our values and energy, creating something truly fun for the whole community. If there are similar events going on where you live, we’d love to hear about them.

EDITOR’S COMMENT

‘The more things change, the more they stay the same’

I

nto my possession a few years ago came about a dozen copies of The Drapers’ Record from 1896 and 1897. Our magazine was 10 years old by the second date and had long since boldly claimed on its front cover that it enjoyed “The Largest Circulation of Any Trade Paper In The World”. It cost one old penny each week (younger readers, please note, there were 240 pennies in the pound before we went decimal on February 15, 1971).

The Drapers’ Record issue of Saturday June 5, 1897 (Edition No 514) is a “Special Export Number” and the 90 or so pages are packed with advertisements for a vast range of products that mainly British manufacturers wished to sell to foreign as well as domestic customers.

The magazine, which physically is only slightly taller and narrower than the incarnation we have today, is a fascinating reminder of how complicated the fashion industry was, even in Queen Victoria’s day.

Top of the five advertisements on the front page is the wholesale drapery business of Debenham & Freebody, the precursor of today’s department store group, which was advertising “44-inch batiste – range of 40 light shades” from its lining department.

Then, as now, it was based in Welbeck Street in the West End. Other familiar names advertising in 1897 include Jaeger (“Best is cheapest. Fixed Moderate Prices”), Viyella and Courtauld’s (offering waterproof crape [sic] for mourning dress).

The revolution in the way we dress now is perhaps best exemplified by the difference

Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers eric.musgrave@emap.com

in women’s lingerie. Anyone who has ever thought that a modern underwired bra is a complicated bit of engineering ought to consider what went into a corset. There are an astonishing number of advertisers selling corsets and parts thereof, including “Antarctic Whalebone” and the longforgotten “Inflato” capped bodice steels.

An entire page ad sings the advantages of the “Pineesi” Patent Safety Pin. I wonder what the margin was on safety pins in 1897.

Entertaining and intriguing as the old adverts are, the thing that most fascinates me about these issues from more than a century ago are the similarities they reveal between business concerns then and now.

For example, in a letter to the editor, a William Ponting of Kensington writes: “It occurs to me that it would be greatly to the interests of West End tradesmen if they were to combine to delay their summer Sales until the second or third week in July … I would suggest that a committee of influential drapers be formed in order to

fix a date for general adoption … A few years ago we used to have our Sales in July, but now it is the custom to have them the last week in June, almost in the middle of season, instead of at the end, as they should be.”

I don’t know whether to be comforted or frustrated that some 116 years later the great Sale date debate rumbles on.

The prospects for international trade are examined in some depth in this “Special Export Number”. These days Drapers does not do export specials, but on November 21 our annual Drapers Fashion Summit has retail international expansion as its theme and we have put together an impressive agenda for the day, which can be viewed at www.fashionsummit.co.uk.

I like to think our Victorian forefathers would approve.

In another link to the present day, the June 5, 1897 issue has as its back cover an advertisement celebrating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria. Similarly to last year and this, several correspondents complained that the royal celebrations were disrupting sales. It is nice to know that retailers were as hard to please in 1897 as they are today. ● PS A big thank you to all the businesses that have entered the new Drapers Independents Awards 2013, the deadline for which is now closed. The Drapers team is now sorting through the entries before visiting those shops that have reached the shortlist. For details of how to attend the celebratory lunch on November 7 in London, visit www.drapersindependents.co.uk – I look forward to welcoming many of you there.

Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com. All Drapers emails follow the style of firstname.surname@emap.com.

All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305, Rebecca Soni, 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 2862 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195.

Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013 AUGUST 31 2013 /

Drapers

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WWW.ETOJEANS.CO.UK | +441254 664547 | SALES@ETOJEANS.CO.UK

FASHION INDEX

Talking Trade

‘Cultural shift leaves brands looking East’ Dan Coen

L

ast week, Abercrombie & Fitch reported a 10% fall in like-for-like sales in the second quarter of the year. The young fashion retailer blamed its worse-than-expected results on a decline in store visits. However, these latest results also provide us with a valuable snapshot of current developments in global retail and specifically the market for branded fashion labels.

Results like this are not surprising, given the difficult trading conditions retailers currently face. One challenge Abercrombie & Fitch faces is its high price point, which is unlikely to sit well with its target customer, who has grown up in a time of austerity and are reassessing how they spend their money.

If these economic pressures weren’t enough, Abercrombie & Fitch is also targeting a demographic undergoing a significant shift in its purchasing decisions, towards differentiation instead of homogenous brands.

Abercrombie & Fitch, Jack Wills and similar retailers have taken a hit as their previous loyal generation of shoppers has moved on and the next does not seem to be taking to them in the same way.

Young shoppers are no longer after the logo-centric and heavily branded clothes they once were. The future of fashion is now being determined by social media and trendsetters, such as Cara Delevingne and Rihanna.

Heritage brands and value fashion chains offering basics that allow young British consumers to create their own look seem to be the big winners of this cultural shift.

However, looking outside the UK and western Europe, some markets still provide a good opportunity for these branded retailers. In China and the Middle East for example, there is still a growing demand for aspirational qualities in a brand. Abercrombie & Fitch’s international revenue grew by 15% in the second quarter, while in China sales grew by 21%.

Branded fashion labels will therefore need to be inventive as they ride out this period of flux, and it seems like international expansion may be the most sensible way forward to ensure a smooth ride.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

‘Abercrombie & Fitch has a high price point which will not sit well with shoppers raised on austerity’

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 34 – August 19 to August 25, 2013

+0.3%

-4.3% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The UK National Retail Index from Experian Footfall increased by 0.3% week-on-week, although it saw a decline of 4.3% year-on-year. The bank holiday weekend caused year-on-year reductions for Friday and Saturday of 5.8% and 7.1% respectively. Perhaps some of this reflects the continued good weather.

This week all 11 regions showed a year-on-year decline.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending August 25, 2013

-1.65% -4.91%

Clothing

Total fashion

-5.22% Footwear

Fashion sales were poor despite the weak comparables from 2012. Discounting in the build-up to the late August bank holiday was less widespread this year, with many retailers posting a contraction in like-for-likes. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs EDINBURGH 18.8%

1. Design 7.9% 2. Production 7.7% 3. Sales 6.6% 4. Merchandising 6.5%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.3% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

AUGUST 31 2013 /

Drapers

13

indie index

Kidswear week ending August 17 5-12 YEAR-OLDS

0-4 YEAR-OLDS

Top 10

Top 10

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1 2 3 4 5

Dresses T-shirts Shorts Babywear Leggings

£4,118 tAKINGS tHIS WEEK

-3.2% year-on-year change

£53

Mayoral Kate Mack Boss Kids Carbone Timberland Joules Levi’s Mim-Pi Oilily Scotch & Soda

£4,184 tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -3.2% year-on-year change

Top 5

£54

Best-selling categories of the week 1 2 3 4 5

Dresses T-shirts Tops Jackets Leggings

AVERAGE SPEND

Top 5

Brands with the best sell-through 1 2 3 4 5

Week ending August 17, 2013

Top 5 1 2 3 4 5

Mayoral Boss Kids Oilily Absorba Kate Mack

Top 5

Brands with the best sell-through 1 2 3 4 5

Mayoral Kate Mack Boss Kids I Do Absorba

Brands with the best margin

AVERAGE SPEND

+1% FOOtFALL Change for week ending August 17, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

1 2 3 4 5

Mayoral Kate Mack Monnalisa Oilily Boss Kids

indie WATCH

+9.41%

+1%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin

FOOtFALL Change for week ending August 17, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

69 THe big number

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

-2.82%

Week ending August 17, 2013

Mayoral Kate Mack Boss Kids I Do Eliane et Lena

+8.89%

%

of kids’ indies haven’t bought into spring 14’s mini-me trend

AVERAGE MONtHLY tAKINGS

PROFIt MARGIN

AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOLD

Data for July 15 to August 11, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

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Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Mayoral Kate Mack Timberland Boss Kids Catimini Emile et Rose Sarah Louise Absorba Oilily Katvig

NEW HALL4

17 - 19 SEPT. 2013 - PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE INTERNATIONAL TRIMMINGS AND COMPONENTS SHOW FOR FASHION AND DESIGN

modamont.com

ECOMM INDEX

Insight into sales and shopping behaviour during July ONLINE FASHION VISITORS BY RETAILER

Number of customer visits by retailer category

ONLINE CONSUMER MARKET OVERVIEW

Monthly change in % of internet population and fashion shoppers Retailer type

Unique visitors

Multiples

6,534,000

RETAILERS VISITED BY CATEGORY

The top five ecommerce sites visited in July by category including month-by-month % change Pure-play

Unique visitors

Change

Asos

1,696,000

Change

9%

Very

875,000

23%

8%

Pure-play

4,366,000

7%

Boohoo.com

750,000

27%

Dept store

3,203,000

4%

eBay (fashion only)

677,000

-2%

Sportswear

2,451,000

11%

Littlewoods

578,000

5%

Supermarket

1,945,000

9%

Footwear

1,476,000

Value

787,000

-10%

Premium

507,000

-3%

Lingerie

454,000

7%

+1%

4%

Total internet browsing population

+5% Fashion shoppers

REFERRAL SOURCES TO FASHION SITES

12 THE BIG NUMBER

34% Portals Fashion retailers Search Direct

23%

Email Social networks

17%

News and media Other

million

10% 7%

5%

3%

people shopped for fashion online in July

1%

Multiples

Unique visitors

New Look

1,929,000

Change 15%

Next

1,724,000

13%

Matalan

1,587,000

22%

River Island

1,020,000

-1%

Topshop

964,000

0%

Premium

Unique visitors

Ralph Lauren

142,000

Change 11%

Hugo Boss

82,000

34%

Lacoste

70,000

-14%

Gucci

53,000

7%

Farfetch

50,000

40%

Department stores

Unique visitors

Debenhams

1,598,000

Change 7%

Marks & Spencer

1,414,000

9%

John Lewis

482,000

-6%

BHS

393,000

-7%

House of Fraser

276,000

-4%

Footwear

Unique visitors

Clarks

711,000

Change 10%

Schuh

370,000

16%

Office

330,000

-9%

Barratts

147,000

-5%

Dune

84,000

2%

CROSS-VISITATION ACROSS THE TOP FASHION RETAILERS

Percentage of visitors to one website who visit rival etailers during the same month

Matalan

Next

River Island

Topshop

28% Asos

28% New Look

46% New Look

44% River Island

27% New Look

28% River Island

27% Debenhams

38% Asos

43% Asos

22% Next

25% Next

21% Asos

37% Topshop

42% New Look

20% Debenhams

22% Matalan

20% Matalan

27% Next

19% Tesco F&F

21% Topshop

19% Marks & Spencer

27% George at Asda

16

New Look

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

25% Boohoo.com

23% Boohoo.com 21% Next

ANDY DUNKLEY I PROFILE

Licence to grow

The chief executive of Lee Cooper, Andy Dunkley, sets out the denim brand’s ambitious global plans under its new owner

F

Words by Jill GeoGheGan Photography by Tom campbell

or a 105-year old east London brand which started out as a uniform manufacturer for British troops in the First World War, Lee Cooper is a much different proposition today.

In fact, UK sales from Europe’s oldest denim brand only account for 5% of overall turnover, which largely come from its major stockist Sports Direct – the brand declined to give full stockist details. It’s a far cry from its 1950s heyday when, according to Lee Cooper, the brand was “embraced by 80% of the UK market”.

Sach Kukadia, founder of etailer Secret Sales, which stocks Lee Cooper, says the brand’s “limited distribution in recent times has affected its positioning”. He adds: “Consequently the consumer’s perception of the brand has diminished and requires attention.”

Lee Cooper chief executive Andy Dunkley admits the UK is “financially less important” than international but defends the brand’s domestic positioning: “UK sales are at their highest level since the 1990s. We have invested in product and homegrown creative talent at record levels through our east London offices, and are seeing significant return on that. The brand is at its highest-ever sales level globally. These figures are all indicative of the success and popularity of the brand in today’s market, both internationally and in the UK.” Dunkley is keen to emphasise that Lee Cooper’s London roots are at the heart of the company. “The East End is essential for the brand,” he enthuses.

“It’s where we come from, it’s where the label originated and it happens that there are still some fantastic creative people [here].”

The label moved its head office to Shoreditch in 2010, and although Dunkley won’t reveal how many people are employed at its HQ, he says: “It’s

great to work with people who really understand the brand and are inspired by it; it really bolsters the creativity of Lee Cooper around the world and pushes us forward.”

With more than 500 stockists and 46 licensees selling in more than 100 countries, it’s clear that Dunkley is eyeing international markets for further growth and expects to grow international sales by double digits. He says that in the coming year Lee Cooper plans to launch in South America, targeting Colombia and Argentina, as well as venturing into Australia and the US. He stresses that the move into the US will not turn Lee Cooper into a “cowboy brand” and welcomes the “challenge of communicating the label’s recognisable values” to the American consumer in order to distinguish itself from homegrown denim giant Levi’s.

The international push comes on the back of the brand’s acquisition by US licensing firm Iconix Brand Group in February for $72m (£46.2m).

Speaking about the deal, for which talks had been ongoing since 2010, Dunkley says: “It is a continuing relationship in terms of investing, marketing and product development. They are very supportive and want Lee Cooper to continue to do what it has been doing.”

The brand, whose wholesale price range starts at £15 for T-shirts and goes up to £35 for jeans, expects turnover in 2013 to top $500m (£321m), up from $430m (£276m) last year, with doubledigit growth set to continue for 2014. Operating profit rose double digits in each of the last three years, and in the next five years Lee Cooper aims to hit sales of $1bn (£641m).

WhilE lEE CoopEr’s Britishness has been instrumental in growing its international distribution, Dunkley says he is cautious to avoid “brash” imagery of “double-decker buses and red telephone boxes” when relaying the brand’s message to customers around the world.

“There is a balance. Lee Cooper is from London and inspired by the city but I don’t want it to be ‘of London’. I want to move things forward,” he insists.

This attitude was at the forefront of Dunkley’s strategy to rebuild the denim brand when he joined as chief financial officer in 2008. A self-confessed fashion novice, the former chartered accountant was promoted to chief executive within six months and set about “revamping” the label.

“It has the most fantastic heritage but I felt that was all that was left of the brand. We were unfocused on who our consumer was, so we were doing too much design, too much of everything.

Lee Cooper hadn’t been updated and although history gives you an entry to the customer and an authenticity, you have to keep moving on,” he says, referencing the brand’s strategy to tackle overseas markets and online.

Dunkley concludes: “We’ve been around for 105 years but we are not selling to the same consumer that we were in 1908. It is key to make sure a brand with this level of authenticity is still pushing on and evolving.”

AUGUST 31 2013 /

Drapers

17

shopwatch

Y-3, Covent Garden Everything feels restrained in the Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas collaboration’s second London store – except the prices Words by JOHN RYAN

THE BASICS address 12 Floral Street, London WC2E opened August 1, 2013 previous tenant Aubin & Wills

F

store size 1,615 sq ft ambience Sportswear slick

or those not in the know, Y-3 could refer to a South African automatic grenade launcher, a series of Swedish diesel railway carriages or a Boeing airliner project. In Covent Garden’s Floral Street, however, Y-3 is a sports fashion brand from Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto in collaboration with Adidas that has just opened its second store in London.

London’s first standalone Y-3 is on Conduit Street and opened in March 2011 in a unit that is narrow and a little cramped. In Covent Garden, the high-end brand has much more commodious premises and visitors can see everything on a single floor, in contrast to Conduit Street’s two smaller floor plates.

18

Drapers / AuGuST 31 2013

FormAT And vISuAl mErCHAndISIng 8/10

Y-3 starts with a distinct advantage inasmuch as the store is essentially square, making merchandising and dividing the space fairly straightforward. It also plays to the store’s minimalist intent, which is established from the moment the shopper stands outside the store’s white frontage with the windows and architectural metalwork picked out in black.

Internally, things are white too, but much of the shop looks grey in tone, owing to the lights being focused on the stock and fixtures, rather than having high ambient light levels. Across the floor, the eye is caught by a series of floor-toceiling light boxes featuring fashion shots.

Stock levels around the perimeter are kept sparse, making each piece appear jewel-like, which does look almost like an attempt to justify the very high prices demanded.

The cash and service desk is in the middle of the shop and like much of the rest of the storefit, it shows great attention to detail. This means it has a restrained but obviously expensive palette of

materials, with mirrored sides and internally lit glass display cases housing accessories doubling up as the counter.

In spite of the sporadic use of bold colour, there is a sense of calm about this interior that you would expect of a high-end Japanese brand.

It also sets the scene for digging into your wallet.

ProduCT 6/10

The clue for much of the product is in the brand name. The ‘Y’ clearly stands for Yohji Yamamoto, while the ‘3’ refers to the iconic stripes that signal an Adidas product. The hyphen is supposed to be the link between the two brands. And here perhaps is a mild problem. Adidas is a global mega-brand and a titan of the middle market.

Yohji Yamamoto is also a well-known label, but its products are, if nothing else, resolutely upscale.

The outcome is that if you want a pair of trainers, a core part of the offer in this shop, expect to pay north of £180, which puts the brand way ahead of the Nike bespoke trainer service in the not-too-distant Niketown at Oxford Circus. And to put a few more prices into the mix, a plain white

spick-and-span: the brand’s signature styling is showcased against a minimalist backdrop. even the customer service is subtle in approach

polo shirt is £75 and a black, round-neck lightweight sweat top with a Y-3 appliqué in shiny black is £95.

On the accessories side of things, a small purse-cum-wallet in black and Y-3’s signature orange is £110, which puts the brand in the same bracket as Comme des Garçons, although Comme feels more aspirational when an equivalent article is compared.

All of this means that while this is undoubtedly a stylish sports-based range, the pricing is very ambitious and high enough to deter many.

entirely in black and each sported a severely modish hairstyle. This is pretty much in keeping with what you might expect of a brand like Y-3 and this spare aesthetic can even be vaguely intimidating. That said, the store was immaculate, things were being kept just so, and the staff were polite from the moment they greeted you to the instant you decided to leave.

Selling was being undertaken but it was a subtle process and you might have been unaware that you were being seduced.

SErvICE 8/10

This will certainly appeal to fans of the brand and is a good-looking space, but newcomers will find the pricing difficult. There is much to be said for keeping things simple if you want to look

The restraint shown in the store design is mirrored in the service. The three members of staff on duty on the evening of visiting were, of course, dressed

doES IT work? 6/10

expensive, but as soon as the word Adidas becomes part of the mix, expectations about pricing may be somewhat lower than what is being demanded in the Y-3 store.

As a new store representing a global brand with stockists across the uK, this is a fine ambassador and is certainly much better than the original standalone on Conduit Street.

There is, however, little certainty that shoppers will beat a path along Floral Street in search of this shop. The nearby 28 Paul Smith stores may prove competitive distractions and halt shoppers’ progress 40 along the street. to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/shopwatch AuGuST 31 2013 /

Drapers

19

FaST FaShion

Short circuit

Need a stock update? Freshen things up for autumn 13 with these short-order favourites Words by GRAEME MORAN

ruBy rocKS Ruby Rocks’ signature dresses come in a host of new patterns and fabrics for autumn 13, from casual to dressier options.

A loose-fitting dress with a layered sheer lace overlay stands out, alongside tulip-skirted options and maxi lengths.

Jennifer MacDonald, Ruby Rocks’ director, says: “Separates to mix and match have also been bestsellers, in particular kimono tops, bomber jackets, culottes and light woven sweat tops.”

Autumn 13’s print and pattern pieces feature Eastern-inspired peacocks, oriental dragon designs and geometric Aztec shapes.

Wholesale prices £18 for a dress to £24 for a bomber jacket Contact 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.com

neon roSe

BellField “The men’s tailoring has been doing amazingly, in flecked and windowpane herringbone – there’s a real gap in the market for it,” says Juls Dawson, sales agent for men’s and women’s wear brand Bellfield.

“Heavy outerwear has also been popular, particularly the arctic parka update [from £14.50 wholesale].

“Woodland themes and stained-glass prints on jersey have been good for women. There’s also a good tapestry theme, trimming jackets and separates and covering a great bomber jacket.”

The brand’s men’s footwear, which launched for spring 13, has been popular too, joined by the debut range of women’s footwear 20

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

options for autumn 13. Leather and pleather have also been introduced for the first time across menswear and womenswear.

Wholesale prices from £5 for vests and from £36.50 for a suit (jackets from £21 and trousers from £15.50) Contact 020 7739 7620 www.bellfieldclothing.com

Neon Rose offers an on-trend take on the grungy look hitting the high street this autumn.

“We’re keeping the silhouette easy and timeless, with skater skirts, cut-out side dresses and a new high-neck dress shape,” says Amy Kumar, the womenswear brand’s director.

PU trims, acid-wash jersey and fabric combinations such as lace and check jersey all feature.

“The Aztec-patterned vest with PU trim has been one of our bestsellers, and the acid-wash jersey wrap dress has been great in terms of sales,” says Kumar.

Wholesale prices £6.50 for a striped T-shirt to £23.20 for a PU-sleeved faux fur-trim hooded parka Contact 0161 235 5289 www.neonrose.co.uk u

rapanui

FinderS KeeperS “After the recent appointment of a new design team, [this collection] really marks the evolution of the brand,” says Polly Pritchett, head of sales at Self Service, Finders Keepers’ UK agent and distributor.

“They’ve introduced neoprene structured separates, asymmetric dresses, sportswear-inspired bralets and contemporary playsuits.”

The womenswear collection also includes signature asymmetric dresses, structured peplum bustiers and sportswear-inspired sweaters.

Wholesale prices £18 for a cotton vest to £88 for a cotton parka jacket Contact 020 7725 5700 www.finderskeepersthelabel.com

Good basics are often hard to find, but ethical brand Rapanui has launched a new short-order range that ticks both quality and ethical boxes.

The 12-piece collection includes plain vests, tops, T-shirts and hoodies in a range of colours, derived from bamboo, eucalyptus and organic cotton and made in a factory powered by wind turbines. Accessible price points start at £3.98 with a 2.5 mark-up.

“We want to give people the option to go for something that’s bang on trend and has a genuine approach to solving some of the problems in fashion supply chains,” says Mart Drake-Knight, co-founder of the brand.

Wholesale prices £3.98 for a cotton T-shirt to £9.98 for a zip-through hoodie Contact 01983 409790 www.rapanuiclothing.com

poppy lux “Lots of the monochrome and neon pieces have been doing really well,” says Lucy Cosens, wholesale manager at womenswear label Poppy Lux. “Buyers have been going for less body-con dresses, which is what Poppy Lux started out with.”

Popular styles have included maxi shapes and looser skater-style dresses and skirts. Other key pieces include a monochrome checkerboard-print twin set, sporty floral sweatshirts and dresses with geometric sheer-panel cut-outs.

Wholesale prices £8 for a skirt to £15.35 for a dress Contact 01273 911393 www.poppylux.com

louche

Brave Soul “Heritage and preppy are the key trends for guys,” says Angela Robinson, branding manager at Whispering Smith, which designs and wholesales Brave Soul. “It’s all about the yarn and fabric texture for womenswear, with Lurex giving added sparkle.”

Items topping buyers’ lists include chunky Christmas jumpers and the brand’s signature duffle coat for men. Geometric, patterned and fluffy textured knits stand out for women.

Wholesale prices £6.99 for knitwear to £25 for a jacket Contact 01618 313700 www.bravesoul.co.uk

“We’ve taken inspiration from the ladylike 1940s influences seen on the runway, as well as incorporating some real statement metallics for Christmas,” says Katie Martin, sales executive at Louche. “Our coats this season are directional too, with heavy use of oversized, boyfriend silhouettes.”

Bestsellers from last season make a return, including a twist-front dress and fun intarsia knits. Leopard, signature florals and geometric houndstooth are key patterns, while fluffy knits and metallic faux leathers provide textural interest.

Wholesale prices range from £8 for a T-shirt to £40 for dresses Contact 020 7091 1886 MONTH 00 2013 /

Drapers

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THE BUZZ

QUICK LOOK: FLOSSY PRINTED PLIMSOLLS

Fashion foreword

‘Time to declare open season on fashion?’

Ian Wright

Having sold 2 million pairs in 2010, it’s safe to say Flossy plimsolls are popular worldwide. But how do you update such a simple product? Well, for spring 14 the brand has taken its signature prints to the extreme by spreading them from the canvas onto the sole of the shoe. Wholesale prices start at £10.

W

hen putting together this week’s Brandwatch (p25) I was at first a bit taken aback by some of the styles presented. I was so bemused by some of the images that I had to check and double check I was looking at the right season.

With the plethora of relatively chunky jackets on offer for spring, it appears brands have accepted fully both the fluctuating demands the British weather puts on clothing and the smorgasbord of climatic conditions in other areas of the world they want to sell their wares in.

While the move to everyone offering truly seasonless collections may be a little way off yet, we are getting to the point where we might well question the relevance of having distinct spring and autumn seasons.

I was discussing with an Australian fashion PR the other day how, during my previous life at Asos, Australia as a market was growing disproportionately quickly. The

Contact: 07790 017014 www.flossyplimsolls.co.uk

Trendwatch

We are getting to the point where we might well question the relevance of having distinct spring and autumn seasons reason? Shoppers from Down Under are able to get their hands on, say, winter ranges from Asos six months in advance of when they appear in their country’s shops, while summer product at the UK etailer goes into markdown right at the start of the Australian summer.

The seasons are essentially meaningless when selling to a global audience, as someone somewhere will always want a chunky winter coat or bikini – albeit probably not at the same time – so where is the harm in having a much more fluid offer that ebbs and flows with the Gulf Stream rather than abruptly jumping from shorts to sweaters?

Newness is always a draw but it doesn’t have to come in the form of a change of season. Drops throughout the year also make sense financially, as retailers can be more responsive to inclement weather or trends that change like the wind, rather than sinking funds into too many ‘surefire winners’. In fact, apart from the fashion weeks, which still need the seasonal shift to create their time to shine, I see no real reason for holding on to spring and autumn, so we might as well jacket all in for good (sorry).

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com 22

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

Designers Remix

Guldknappen

By Malene Birger

WHITE OUT

While print and pattern might still be big news for spring 14, designers showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week recently proposed something altogether calmer. Keep an eye out for an all-white monochrome palette covering everything from sporty separates to tailoring.

Lyle & Scott fires up time capsules Lyle & Scott has pulled out all the stops for its 140th anniversary next year by launching two celebratory capsule ranges.

The first, the premium 11-piece 140 collection (pictured), references the Lyle & Scott archives and original branding, and will only run for spring and autumn 14. The second, the 1960 collection, will run indefinitely and takes inspiration from the brand’s golfing heritage.

The 140 collection wholesales from £26 for polos to between £42.50 and £46.50 for knits, and the 1960 line from £24 for polos to £46.50 for knits. The Vintage mainline now sits below the capsule range, at £11 for a T-shirt to £37 for knitwear.

Contact: 020 7467 7500 www.lyleandscott.com See our interview on p40 for more info

this week’s hero

Whistle & Wolf Whistle & Wolf is the womenswear label conceived by the team behind retro-inspired lingerie label Playful Promises. Continuing the flirty vintage aesthetic of its sister label, the brand is big on prom dresses, sweetheart necklines and floral prints, which are also counterbalanced by structured blazers and tailored dresses to add a sharper workwear aesthetic. For its first season, autumn 13, it already counts stockists including House of Fraser, John Lewis and Dorothy Perkins. Spring 14 is available to buy now, with wholesale prices including £18 for a lace-trim dress, £26 for a jacket and £28 for a printed dress.

Contact: 020 3022 5827 www.whistleandwolf.com

Figure of fun: vintage silhouettes and floral prints create a playful mood

AUGUST 31 2013 /

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THE STYLE COUNCIL

Q

Are you buying more pre-collections than you have before?

Helen David Over the past few years we’ve invested more into pre-collections from labels such as Chloé (pictured). Pre-collections have longer to sell and so achieve better sell-throughs. Customers also expect to see new-season stock in the store early.

Pre-collections often offer more classic, signature styles that have been recut from previous seasons’ bestsellers, allowing the customer to buy into a designer’s signature look.

The panel

NATALIE RODGERS Founder of petite womenswear etailer Elfin

HELEN DAVID Head of womenswear, Harrods

TAMARA DRAX Head buyer at three-store womenswear retailer Austique in London

KATIE STARMER-SMITH Founder of contemporary womenswear etailer Atterley Road

t Tamara Drax With the UK’s increasingly unpredictable weather, we are definitely factoring pre-collections into how we buy.

With seasons completely out of kilter, designers are producing pieces you can wear all year round (Austique’s own label, pictured).

There are a lot more lightweight layering pieces instead of heavy pieces in the winter, which customers can wear into spring.

t Katie Starmer-Smith We are focusing more on the mainline spring 14 collections than resort.

We’re buying more considerately, with an emphasis on occasionwear and wedding and summer party dresses (Selected Femme, pictured).

Swimwear, footwear and accessories are also key categories and although we’ve seen a shift in the seasons, we’ve concentrated on good transitional pieces to bridge the gap.

u Natalie Rodgers Yes, we've bought into resort collections this season, including Draw In Light (pictured).

We've only recently launched so weren't trading for spring 13, but we saw that retailers had less time to sell collections at full price with summer Sales starting earlier. Buying more deeply into resort gives us a better selling window and should result in a higher sell-through by the time we go into Sale.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

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Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

BRANDWATCH

BEN SHERMAN Parachute is the name of Ben Sherman’s spring 14 collection, which has seen the brand develop a printed nylon that is overlaid on simple jackets (including a transseasonal technical parka with a removable lining), button-down collar shirts and short blazers. The parachute design crops up as fun repeats and full-bleed macro prints.

Textured mercerised cotton knits and a cracking rucksack add depth to a range full of sunset shades such as washed pink and muted mustards.

Wholesale prices £18 for a T-shirt to £134 for outerwear Contact 020 7812 5300 www.bensherman.com

FARRELL Now in its sixth season, Farrell’s spring 14 collection has seen creative director Ben Dickens’ penchant for a parka – he was previously Burberry’s outerwear design director – come through in a nostalgia-tinged range. Jackets vary from workwear-inspired cropped styles to smart macs and the aforementioned parkas. Trousers are cropped at the ankle and the requisite biker jacket is clean and neat. Mainly muted tones of grey, beige and blue (from baby to navy) are lifted by a zingy yellow. The accessories look particularly fine.

Wholesale prices £17.50 for a vest to £139 for the glider parka Contact 020 7078 9509 www.farrell.com

Alpha males This week’s selection of spring 14’s key menswear brands Words by IAN WRIGHT

J LINDEBERG Head designer Jessy Heuvelink’s spring 14 collection is inspired by the anatomy of insects. “The proportions, colours and joints [of the insects] translate into cut lines, shapes and different volumes,” says Heuvelink. This influence is most obvious in an embroidered and printed bug motif while the iridescent jewel tones reference insects’ eyes and shells.

Outerwear is key, with tailored blazers rubbing shoulders with nylon bombers.

Wholesale prices £13 for a T-shirt to £342 for a suit made in Loro Piana cloth Contact 020 8865 2785 www.jlindeberg.com AUGUST 31 2013 /

Drapers

25

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FRANCHISING I INTERNATIONAL

Flexible friend: Mothercare lets franchise partners adapt its website according to their needs

Remote control

Retailers with overseas franchises face tough decisions when it comes to local websites Words by VICTORIA GALLAGHER

W

hen UK fashion retailers expand their bricks-andmortar operations overseas, they often knock on the doors of local franchise operators who have on-the-ground retail knowledge and infrastructure already in place.

However, this route creates the dilemma of whether to retain control over the local online operation in the event the franchise partner is unable to successfully manage the retailer’s strategy in that channel.

If a retailer does decide to hand over control to a franchisee, it needs to work out what the working relationship will look like in order to ensure its online strategy is met and the lack of direct control won’t cause damage to its brand identity in that territory.

Paula Levitan, head of UK retail at law firm Arnold & Porter, says: “Local partners can be invaluable in their knowledge of real estate, logistics and all the things that are different from

country to country, but anything that touches the brand specifically is very different.

“Franchise partners in my experience want to take on the online business, but for anyone not sat in head office and at the centre of new product development, learning about fresh promotions and the core of who the customer is, it can be a very tough task.”

Levitan warns that ensuring consistency across the retailer’s online and bricks-and-mortar platforms is essential, and that franchising

One of the problems is that you can’t legislate for anything that is unknown, and online can be an unknown field

websites can be tricky because different overseas partners could change the “brand essence” and affect how the company is seen in those markets.

Mark Ashton, managing director of women’s young fashion brand Little Mistress, believes that international retail stores and global ecommerce sites should be run as separate businesses. “The online sphere is your stage to convey the global image and brand message. To try and run this on an individual country-by-country basis is just not workable,” he says.

“We look at the sales in the territory and on a quarterly basis compensate the [retail] franchisee in the form of a percentage of sales achieved in the region.” He says this way the partner sees a benefit from expanding the brand’s popularity through physical retail and by directing customers to the website.

This is now becoming normal business practice, with law firms increasingly adding clauses in franchise contracts stating that a percentage of the profits generated abroad from AUGUST 31 2013 /

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27

INTERNATIONAL I FRANCHISING

centrally run ecommerce platforms will be given back to the franchise partner.

Further issues to consider in franchising contracts include pricing, with many franchisees usually expecting the freedom to set their own prices. This is something that needs to be carefully weighed up when the bricks-andmortar and online channels sit side-by-side in a country, where any discrepancy in price could damage a retailer’s image and bottom line.

RETURNS ARE ALSO an area to consider, because local customers will expect to be able to return items bought to a local store. Retailers and brands must therefore address this directly in the franchise agreement.

Maurice Bennett, chairman of womenswear retailers Austique, Kookaï UK and Long Tall Sally, agrees that signing online franchise agreements can be a tricky task because it is still a relatively new field compared with physical retailing: “One of the problems is that you can’t legislate for anything that is unknown, and online can be an unknown field.”

Bennett says it is difficult to divide the business and have a franchise operator running a retailer’s website in one territory while the retailer runs the UK site, as companies need to have common policies such as returns and marketing across all platforms to ensure consistency.

He adds: “Obviously if in a market there is a big opportunity for direct mail online then it becomes less attractive to use a local partner [and launch bricks-and-mortar stores]. All you need in that case is a really good logistics partner to handle deliveries and returns.”

Bennett adds that in countries where the online market is mature, it can be preferable to enter digitally before even considering a physical presence. “Then if someone approaches you, you can look at expanding with bricks-and-mortar as well. But you have to work hand-in-hand with whoever it is. It has to be seamless or else it doesn’t work,” he says.

Mothercare opted to allow franchise partners to adapt its website to suit the local market. The retailer controls marketing and content and provides presentation guidelines, but largely allows its overseas partners to fulfil orders from the site and run it themselves.

Mothercare has reaped the rewards of this approach, with a rise in international sales.

In the 15 weeks to July 13, international sales increased 14.1%, with its etail operation complementing its estate of 1,116 franchise stores across 60 countries including Russia, India and Kuwait.

Where the franchisee is tasked with running a retailer’s ecommerce operation, many contracts will allow the UK company to approve or remove content in order to ensure the brand image is preserved.

And some argue that this is the best route.

Jas Virdee, head of consultancy Kurt Salmon’s UK multichannel practice, says launching one 28

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

Identity pass: G-Star is developing a web platform that will provide a consistent experience across territories

site to suit all territories can be a tough ask.

“In some countries, such as Indonesia, they are quite online-savvy, but then again, how do you deal with the sheer size of a country such as Russia?”

He adds: “As long as you provide the framework and work with the franchise partner it can work well, particularly as the product can be different depending on which territory you are in.

“As a brand or retailer you don’t want to get tied down with all the trading issues, as they can take weeks to sort. The franchise partner is best placed to deal with them as they are a lot closer to it all.”

From September, G-Star will be offering a multichannel tool to its franchise partners in countries including Australia, Germany and Poland. The website will provide shoppers with a unified experience, allowing them to pick up and return online orders in store.

The platform, which is still in development, will then be adopted by franchise partners and will sit on top of G-Star’s existing website in each territory.

G-Star chief creative and commercial officer Patrick Kraaijeveld says the etail framework will

You have to work hand-in-hand with whoever it is. It has got to be seamless or else it doesn’t work

ensure consumers “trust they are shopping at the brand whether they are online or in a physical G-Star retail store”.

Kraaijeveld adds that in order to mitigate any issues with allowing franchisees to run websites, the brand has put together guidelines to outline terms of Sale and discounting. It has also provided RRPs and a general marketing strategy stipulating the recommended Sale period.

THE DEBATE over whether to allow a franchise partner to run a retailer or brand’s online operation is a divisive issue, with a range of opinions on how to manage digital sales internationally, depending on the fashion business you speak to.

“There’s no industry best practice or one-sizefits-all approach,” says Iain Taylor, commercial solicitor at national law firm TLT. “Different approaches work for different sectors, different territories and the capability of the local partner.

Increasingly, when retailers are targeting new territories they have an ecommerce scorecard alongside their general retail scorecard to assess a country’s suitability.”

He adds: “Keeping control of the website inevitably involves less risk but local knowledge and marketing can be more effective. Some of the major franchise operators have developed very sophisticated online offerings and these have helped UK brands get established in new markets.”

Whatever strategy a brand or retailer decides on, brand continuity is key. And no matter what channel the consumer opts to shop through, businesses need to ensure their branding and service is consistent, whether that be in a physical store environment, via a website or on a social media platform.

Careers

How I got here Jill Smethers

Womenswear chain East’s head of marketing left an ad agency to cut her teeth at Selfridges What does your diary look like today? Today is a day of two halves.

This morning I Skyped with Fabindia – our parent company based in New Delhi – regarding commissioning imagery to support our brand communications and this afternoon I’m meeting a multichannel specialist to discuss the growth developments for the brand.

What meeting are you most looking forward to today? The meeting with our creative manager to finalise the window campaigns and point-of-sale for winter and Christmas. We have some fabulous schemes for the forthcoming season and I can’t wait to see them in store.

What task do you wish you could postpone? Having to do my expenses. I prefer the more creative side of my job. Also, having just joined in April I’ve been out visiting lots of the stores across the UK, so I’ve been building up a pile of expenses that I need to get through.

How did you get to where you are today? After leaving school I applied to do a Diploma in Advertising at Watford College, which at the time was the only course [of its kind] in the country.

After graduating, my first job was with award-winning London ad agency Simons Palmer Denton

Clemmow & Johnson, but after a year I decided it wasn’t for me and that marketing was where my true passion lay. So I then took a role as personal assistant to the marketing director at Selfridges. After three months a full-time role was created for me as a marketing co-ordinator and by the time I left four years later I was brand marketing manager.

I’ve since worked at a number of brands including Habitat, Gap, Coast and Rituals cosmetics, and am now excited about my role at East because there is so much potential here.

What has been your career highlight? Working at Selfridges on the biggest and best promotion retail has ever seen – 23½ Days of Bollywood in May 2002, which was a month-long in-store extravaganza.

It also gave me the fantastic opportunity to visit India, which was inspiring.

If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? Nothing at all in my career, because all of my experiences have got me to where I am today. However, if I had to pick one thing it would be to change the fact I didn’t go to university – not for the education but for the experience.

CV 2013

Head of marketing, East

2011

UK communications manager, Rituals

2008

Marketing and PR manager, Coast

2005

Marketing manager, Habitat

2003

Marketing manager, Penhaligon’s

2000

Brand marketing manager, Selfridges

1999

Marketing co-ordinator, Selfridges

1998

PA to marketing director, Selfridges

How do you see your career progressing? I only joined East in April so I’m really looking forward to working with the team here, re-establishing and exploring its rich heritage and

telling its unique story through our multichannel offer.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? It would be to get out there and make it happen for yourself, don’t wait to be handed everything on a plate. If you see an opportunity, then go for it and grab it with both hands.

If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be?

It would have to be as a designer.

It must be immensely satisfying to see someone in the street wearing something you’ve designed; it’s the ultimate compliment. However, being a self-confessed shopaholic I would have to make sure it didn’t just turn into a personal collection for me.

Salaries for this position range from £70,000 to £80,000 (estimate provided by Fashion & Retail Personnel) If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

1 8

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30

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

Short Courses at the Fashion Retail Academy

WHITE STUFF is

Recruiting!

If you would like to develop new skills, pursue a particular passion, start your own business, or improve your career prospects there is a short course at the FRA for you.

Want to work for a Times Top 100 Company?

A Sample of the Courses on Offer

• Introduction to Buying and Range Planning

WHITE STUFF is recruiting for experienced retail professionals in Merchandising, Technical and Shop Management roles.

• Introduction to Buying and Merchandising • Postgraduate in Fashion Retail • Introduction to Visual Merchandising • Introduction to Personal Styling What to do next?

Established in 1985, White Stuff has grown to over 100 shops and concessions selling women’s and men’s clothing as well as beautiful accessories and homeware. We aim to put ‘happiness in every stitch’ of what we do and each of our shops supports its own local charity through the White Stuff Foundation.

www.fashionretailacademy.ac.uk/ short-courses

We offer a competitive salary and all the usual benefits; bonus and pension schemes, 33 days holiday, discount on White Stuff products and two days off each year to work in the community.

For details of all FRA short courses, dates and how to apply, visit our website

For more information on our current vacancies, visit www.whitestuff.com Or get in touch at lovelyhqjobs@whitestuff.com!

y Appl e n i onl now!

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 Freya.Lucas@EMAP.com AUGUST 31 2013

Drapers \

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Discover

Discover the future of retail * Formats & Design Team Opportunities in Holborn, Central London If you want to discover the future of retail, you’ll find it right here, right now. Formats & Design is shaping how Sainsbury’s develops at store level, impacting on our brand and customer experiences. The scope and variety is phenomenal – demanding the leadership and credibility to deliver some of the most complex, visible projects in retail.

You don’t necessarily need a retail background, provided you can inspire others with a vision for how retail can look. Influential to Board level, you will present concepts clearly and challenge others to think differently.

Judgement, perceptiveness and a passion for change will be just as valuable as technical skill.

Sainsbury’s is an evolving retail brand heading in exciting, thoughtprovoking new directions. Discover how we can re-design your career.

Visit sainsburys.jobs * time travel not necessarily required

sainsburys.jobs

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior GARMENT TECHNICIAN OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – £ Competitive plus benefits Our Garment Technologists are responsible for the life cycle of the Womenswear range from prototype stage to the final delivery to our shops. This will be a multi-product role which will include creating size specifications, developing blocks, fitting and approving each style for production. What you’ll be doing: Compiling new specs from design brief for proto development and establishing blocks. Consistently maintain and improve quality standards. Update supplier manual along with the Senior Garment Technologist. Lead fit sessions to ensure fit, construction and quality are signed off in time for production. Analysis & approval of test reports.

Monitor returns and provide feedback.

ACCESSORIES MERCHANDISER OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – £ Competitive plus benefits This is an opportunity for an experience Merchandiser to take overall responsibility for managing the accessories range planning process. Reporting to the Head of Merchandising, you’ll be initiating, forecasting and maintenance of WSSI while pro-actively managing stock coming into the business and flowing through the business to agreed stock targets. You’ll also be responsible for developing and managing an Assistant Merchandiser. What you’ll be doing: Deputising for Head of Merchandising. Pro-actively manage stock coming into the business and flowing through the business to agreed stock targets. Space planning. Overall responsibility for trading of the department. Identifying risks and opportunities through OTB management in conjunction with the Buying team.

DESIGNER - KNITWEAR, JERSEY OR WOMEN’S OWN BRANDS LONDON & LIVERPOOL – £35k - £50k + Bonus + Benefits It’s a hugely exciting time to join Shop Direct Group.

Following a period of continued growth, we have opportunities for experienced clothing designers to join Shop Direct Group on a permanent basis. Working from either Liverpool or London we are on the lookout for talented individuals who can share their wealth of experiences in Knitwear, Jersey or Young Female Fashion. Key duties and responsibilities will include but not be limited to: To design and develop exclusive product and interpretation of appropriate trends, colour and styling. To develop key items and have good presentation skills. To be able to CAD/Illustrate and Photoshop for presentation purposes and Specification packs to suppliers. Seasonal range planning.

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER - HOMEWARES LIVERPOOL, MERSEYSIDE – £20,000 - £22,000 Shop Direct are looking to recruit an experienced Assistant Merchandiser to join our Homewares department on a temporary basis to assist the Merchandise team in the fulfilment of stock to satisfy customer requirements profitably. Role responsibilities include: Produce accurate weekly reports for department trading meeting, as required by the Merchandiser. Manage the held file to ensure accuracy of delivery promises and achievement of timely service and meet customer expectations. Place and maintain contracts in order to provide accurate updates to Call Centres and Warehouses. Manage the delivery and shipment deadlines, identifying and mitigating risk to ensure accurate intake of stock, according to targets.

Ensure lead times and due dates are maintained and accurate.

MARKETING EXECUTIVE L701AB – Competitive Salary Due to continued growth, we are now looking to appoint 3 ambitious and creative Marketing Executives to work within varying business units, based from the groups head office in Speke, South Liverpool. The roles will support the delivery of the brands digital marketing strategy and ensure that email, on-line and social media channels are fully optimised and effectively communicate exciting offers and promotions to potential and existing customers. If you’re a marketing professional who’s looking to take the next step in their career with a cutting edge on-line retailer with a young and vibrant Brand, this could be the role for you.

RETAIL BRAND PRESENTATION MANAGER AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS – Competitive Salary Package

PRODUCT DEVELOPER AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS – Competitive Salary Package RESPONSIBILITIES: Working as a Product Developer for our Global Football Apparel team, you utilize product and process knowledge to manage and execute apparel products based on a project brief (which includes a twodimensional design) to meet the needs of the organization and the consumer in a way that these can be successfully and profitably commercialized and produced. Our Football Apparel team has a global reach and offer the opportunity to develop cutting-edge apparel solutions for global football athletes all over the world. REQUIREMENTS: Bachelor Degree and minimum of 3 years directly relevant work experience.

Understanding of project management and problem solving concepts and applications.

ALLOCATOR AMSTERDAM AREA, THE NETHERLANDS – Competitive Salary Package We are now looking for an Allocator to join the retail team at our European Head Quarter. As an Allocator, you will be responsible for driving & executing the distribution strategy for your product category to Factory Stores across Europe to create optimum store assortment (right product in the right amount to meet consumer’s needs and maximize profitability). REQUIREMENTS: University education and a minimum of 2 years retail experience (buying and/or allocation) with a multi store retailer. Strong analytical skills.

Demonstrate product knowledge and commercial mindset. Strong working knowledge of Excel including setting up spreadsheets, formulas, etc. SAP and IP knowledge preferred. Nike offers a comprehensive relocation package to foreign hires.

Nike does more than outfit the world’s best athletes. We are a place to explore potential, obliterate boundaries, and push out the edges of what can be. We’re looking for people who can grow, think, dream and create. Every employee brings inspiration and innovation to our business and we seek achievers, leaders and visionaries. Mission: To create unique retail experiences that deepen the connection with our consumer and drive conversion through a Nike Sportswear (lifestyle/fashion) lens. You will be responsible for the Nike Sportswear retail marketing strategy for Western Europe, taking direction from Global. Additionally, you will drive creative development and execution around enrichment of global campaign elements. Importantly, you will ensure cross-functional alignment with European Marketing Directors to ensure a consistent voice across the European landscape.

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox AUGUST 31 2013

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior BRA & LINGERIE DESIGNER - EUROPEAN BRAND SOUTH MIDLANDS – £ competitive & DOE We are looking for a creative & sophisticated lingerie designer with competent technical know-how, to design and develop sophisticated bra’s for a classic premium European brand. This position seeks a real expertise in bra’s. Previous experience designing for brands such as : Chantelle, Prima Donna, Lejaby, Simone Perele, Myla etc or their equivalent is highly desirable. You will need to demonstrate a true passion for product and an understanding of commercial constraints.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2650149’

SENIOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST MANCHESTER – Competitive Salary Our client is a leading supplier of character nightwear to the UK high street. Due to expansion within the business they are currently looking to recruit two Senior Garment Technologists to join their team in Manchester. You will attend and contribute at the handover meetings, be responsible for technical issues which need action, achieve target on cost of quality and improve upon customer satisfaction, manage annual retailer factory audit plan and ensure manufacturing agreements are in place. You must have 5 years experience in a Garment Technology role and experience of managing a team.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649614’

TECHNICAL MANAGER - SOCKS LEICESTERSHIRE – Competitive Salary Our client is a well established supplier of hosiery, underwear and nightwear to some of the biggest players on the high street. They are looking for a Technical Manager to strengthen their Sock Division. You will provide a front facing service to the customer on both technical development and quality issues. Technical development and research. Involvement in strategic technical projects, raw material sourcing. You must have sock/hosiery experience and previous experience of dealing with major UK high street retailers.

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER – COSTUME JEWELLERY LONDON – £Competitive + bens Exciting opportunity for a Senior Account Manager to join International jewellery brand and supplier. You will manage various key accounts as well as identifying new opportunities. The ideal candidate will be commercial, have an eye for trends and must have experience in working with high street and luxury customers. Are you strong in development, driving sales and have experience in working with UK and international customers? Then this could be the ideal job for you.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649814’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649949’

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER / ACCOUNT DIRECTOR LONDON QUEEN’S PARK NW6 – Based on experience, basic + commission + bonus.

Trendstop.com is a fast-growing and dynamic fashion & lifestyle trend forecasting agency offering online subscriptions, trend workshops and consultancy based trend services. We are seeking a corporate Account Director for North America, Business Development Director for the Middle East and Senior Account Managers for varied territories. You would be responsible for developing, managing and growing business with Trendstop.com’s existing and new clients. The role is ideal for someone with an extensive fashion wholesale, showroom, brand management, consultancy or similar sales background, who wants to develop their career in digital content. Understanding the fashion industry cycle is required, and some experience of fashion manufacturing and merchandising or otherwise managing product for the retail floor would be helpful.

KNITWEAR TECHNOLOGIST/QUALITY CONTROLLER LEICESTER, LEICESTERSHIRE – NEGOTIABLE We require an experienced knitwear/jerseywear technologist to work in our head office in Leicester. The candidate needs to be an organised individual who can work under pressure and is a team player. The main duties include organising and attending fit sessions with customers and organising critical path, measuring samples, sending comments to our factories, organising garment lab testing etc. Candidate will also need to travel around the UK carrying out random QC checks in bulk production.

Experience of managing ethical compliance will be an advantage but not essential. The successful candidate will deal with major high street retailers, and with our factories in the UK. This is a great opportunity for someone to join a fast moving expanding team.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2647891’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649627’

KNITWEAR/JERSEY DESIGNER LEICESTER, LEICESTERSHIRE – NEGOTIABLE We require an experienced knitwear/jersey designer who has experience in designing for the high street and experience in making cads, and pattern cutting. The candidate needs to be an organised individual who can work under pressure and is a team player. The main duties include organising and attending development meetings as well as creating new samples, working with knitting technicians to create new types of knitting techniques, finding and developing new fabric, working on critical path i.e grading of sizes, etc. Experience would be advantage, they must have past experience in working in production as well as sampling. The successful candidate will deal with major high street retailers, and with our factories in the UK.

STORE MANAGER LONDON – Depends on experience International luxury leather brand seeks store manager who will be in charge of its 2 London locations. The key is to operate the stores smoothly with all managerial responsibilities such as sales generation, merchandising, staff management, general operations etc. New to the UK this exciting ladies brand will take your career to the next level! Applications are invited from passionate retail professionals with a proven track record of managing luxury merchandise. Flexibility on the working hours and experience in a free standing boutique environment are essential. We regret to not e that due to volume, only shortlisted applicants will be contacted. If you do not hear from us we wish you the best of luck in the future.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649629’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2650268’

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LOGISTICS COORDINATOR CHELSEA, SOUTH WEST LONDON – £20,000 £25,000 As the Logistics Coordinator and an exceptional and highly motivated professional you will be responsible for coordinating the logistics side of the business; working closely with the logistics manager, external warehouses, suppliers, manufacturers, internal teams as well as our wholesale clients. The ideal candidate should have awareness working in a fast paced environment, and have a can do attitude. You will also need to have at least 1 year experience of working within the logistics, supply chain or operations sector.

WEB DESIGNER SOUTH WEST LONDON - FULHAM AREA – Between £35,000 to £45,000 The key focus of this role is to lead the look-and-feel of josephfashion.com and work with the ecommerce team and internal stakeholders to plan and deliver industry-leading design across all of our online channels. The successful candidate will be responsible for managing projects from concept to delivery as well managing the weekly process for homepage.

We are looking for someone with at least 5 years’ web design experience in in the fashion space (luxury fashion experience will be an advantage), strong working knowledge of the Adobe Suite and illustrator and a thorough understanding of design needs for an ecommerce website.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649726’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649497’

ONLINE GRAPHIC DESIGN INTERNSHIP SOUTH WEST LONDON – Expenses will cover travel within inner London and lunch (lunch £5 per day) Includes but is not limited to; Assisting with photo editing and producing artwork for use on the homepage, newsletter and in online marketing material in keeping with brand identity.

Working to design briefs to create material for social media campaigns. Supporting in planning newsletter and onsite features to drive engagement and sales. Assisting in ensuring all site graphics are translated and relevant for the particular regions. Supporting with co-ordinating social media and online marketing activity. Assisting in implementing online marketing campaigns. Supporting with creating, improving and managing content processes. Continuously improving the online customer experience.

E-COMMERCE PROJECT MANAGER - FIXED TERM CONTRACT EAST MIDLANDS – Competitive + Bens We have an exciting new opportunity at Joules within our Direct Team for a Project Manager on a Fixed Term Contract. Based in our Head Office in Market Harborough and reporting to the Design and Development Manager you will be responsible for the delivery of a series of strategic projects for the Joules Website using the hybris platform. Within this role you will take ownership and be fully accountable for delivering all agreed projects on the site and associated platforms. To run Scrum meetings and all communications on the projects and manage 3rd parties and internal teams on all projects affecting the Websites and other platforms, ideally you will have a proven track record in project management.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648812’

HR MANAGER EAST MIDLANDS – COMPETITIVE + BENS Based in our Head Office at Market Harborough with occasional travel out to the Retail Estate you will report into the HR and Transformation Director. This role will have a key position in supporting all HR disciplines across both Head Office and Retail functions including employee relations, talent management, people management, succession planning, and building HR strategy for the future. This role will suit a proactive and highly credible qualified HR professional who has the confidence and ability to liaise at all levels and build quick and strong relationship with key stakeholders. The successful candidate will ideally have management experience coupled with experience of working within a fast paced and demanding fashion retail environment.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649715’

TEXTILE DESIGNER SUFFOLK – £Competitive We have an exciting opportunity for a textile designer to work in a company creating luxury fabrics for international fashion markets. The work is varied covering neckwear, contemporary womenswear and furnishing fabrics. The role would include initiating designs on our graphics program to constructing designs in our technical department using our CAD system. Textile & CAD experience would be beneficial however full training will be given to the successful applicant.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649809’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649720’

HEAD OF PRODUCTION AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND – Salary plus full relocation support and benefits package.

Pumpkin Patch is a publicly listed childrenswear retailer with over 2000 staff, 180 retail stores, wholesale operations in 24 global markets and a successful online business. We are a New Zealand company established in 1990 that has taken the world by storm. Based at our head office in Auckland, New Zealand, the newly created role of Head of Production is responsible for global sourcing and managing the entire production process across all categories. We are a designled business and manufacture the majority of our product offshore. While this is a senior leadership role which influences the strategic direction of our production department, it’s also very hands-on with close involvement in day-to-day operations.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649677’

SENIOR DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive & Benefits

You will be responsible for developing an innovative and commercial range of Fashion products, which meet our business requirements. Pro-active and creative, you must have worked at a Senior Designer level and be able to demonstrate the ability to research and interpret forward trends and to drive product development. Working with a Buyer, you must have the creative skills to design products, which exceed the Laura Ashley customers’ expectations of the brand, whilst also being commercial in approach. The ideal candidate should have an extensive knowledge of fabric sourcing and supply base, along with an ability to design across all woven product categories, including casual & formal/occasion wear.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649853’

Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox AUGUST 31 2013

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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

etailPR

AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT

Proven Fashion E-Commerce Experts

Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production.

Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

RETAIL SUPPLIES

0800 45 11 22 morplan.com 36

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BUY NOW

websites that work 01242 238373 | info@etailpr.com | etailpr.com

RETAIL SUPPLIES

STEAMERS

HANGERS

By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

Hangers & Display Products

Cambridge office 0808 168 0709

SWEATSHIRTS

T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs.

Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

www.drapersonline.com

Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

www.redrosesoftware.co.uk

T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

GARMENT LABELS

Halcyon Blue

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

Garment Manufacturer in Bulgaria based Petrich

In House Embroidery & Silk Screen Printing Service

Competitive Prices

Weekly production up to 15K garments

Bulk Order - Fast Tunaround 24hr Design Service

Tel 01254 823014

CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

Clothing production factory of womenswear and menswear.

Specialising in T-shirts, S-shirts, Sweatshirts, Scarves and Belts.

Versatile manufacturer, very short lead times.

Small and big quantities welcome.

ISO, Sedex registered Fabric sourcing and design services available. email: info@sirioustextile.bg’ High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

EMBROIDERY & SCREEN PRINTING

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service?

We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts.

We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

Contact:

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 AUGUST 31 2013

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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request.

We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics.

Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities.

Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Contact: 07903368616

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it!

Visit our transformed website!

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

www.salvageliquidator.com

EXPERIENCED QUALITY CONTROLLER

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE Lollipops Boutique 1 REACTION – DECISION – Always Wanted PAYMENT * Customer Returns * LSS Services * QC Faults Unit 6 * Samples * Atlas*Business Centre * End of Lines * Oxgate Lane All cash payments and London NW2 7HJ garments de-labelled Tel: 020 8208 0404 if required Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Laura stock@lssservices.co.uk 07950310304 or

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

38

Drapers / AUGUST 31 2013

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

01923 800074

theoffice@salvageliquidator.com

Stock wanted We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections.

No minimum / maximum.

Stockroom clearance is our speciality.

Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk

Louise James

Provides reliable, professional & flexible employment as follows:

WE BUY...WE SELL...

Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 8364 8859 AND020 ANYTHING

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

FREELANCE SERVICES

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

ORDER No.

A/C No.

AUTHORISED

• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

JEANS BUTTONS

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Notice board Established 1973 Established 1973

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

To MESSRS

STOCK WANTED

LININGS

ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

FREELANCE SERVICES

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

• HOLIDAY COVER • SICKNESS COVER • • MATERNITY COVER • • ADDITIONAL SUPPORT DURING BUSY PERIODS • • UNTIL A PERMANENT ROLE IS FILLED • • FROM 1 DAY TO 6 MONTHS • Tel: 07930 485588 | Email: j1lou@btinternet.com Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience.

Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service.

Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695 Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best.

Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual.

Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk.

Tel: 0208 886 0494

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723 www.drapersonline.com

Childrens, Ladies and Mens.

N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com

D ATAG R A F LT D

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com

BUYERS GUIDE

We design, source and produce high quality Womens’, Mens’, and Kids’ accessories for the High Street.

TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Our in-house Design Team works alongside our highly experienced Accessories Quality Control Team, offering reliable back-up, organisation and great prices.

DESIGN ° SOURCING ° PRODUCTION

LEATHER ACCESSORIES

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Drapers \

39

THIS FASHION LIFE

‘Plastic’ heritage brands will always have a limited lifespan as they have nothing real to take inspiration from

Richard Martin

Lyle & Scott’s brand director explains why labels with an authentic heritage will never go out of fashion

T

Words by EMILY NorvaL

his year marks the 140th anniversary of Lyle & Scott – how is the brand celebrating? We’ve introduced two capsule collections for spring 14 and autumn 14, with all product made in the UK. The brand has a serious heritage story to tell so we’ll be delivering this via a brand book due to launch in September 2014, to coincide with our official birthday. We’ll also launch a special collaboration for autumn 14 which is yet to be finalised. We’ll also be celebrating Scottish creativity through a series of films and partnerships.

40

Drapers / AUgUST 31 2013

What can you tell us about the new 140th anniversary collection? It sees Lyle & Scott looking back through the archives to create an 11-piece premium range (pictured). The collection exclusively features the original L&S Ltd 1874 logo, which is indicative of where the brand started from. Alongside this, the embroidered tonal eagle sits on the sleeve, subtly recognising where the brand is today.

How has it been received at the spring 14 trade shows? Very well. We’ve acquired more than 30 global, niche accounts so far. For us it has been interesting because effectively, we’ve been reintroducing the brand and reminding the market of its unique heritage. We’ve brought our

new segmentation model to the market through Vision in Copenhagen and Bread & Butter, while also exhibiting our capsules at New York and Paris Capsule. Quantity [of buyers] is down but the quality is definitely there.

What effect did merging the Heritage and Vintage lines for autumn 13 have on the brand? Lyle & Scott needed brand consistency across all segments. There wasn’t a major difference between design or price architecture across the two collections so we decided to execute the Vintage design direction across the complete range.

Do you think the heritage trend has a time limit for menswear? No I don’t.

‘Plastic’ heritage brands will always have a limited lifespan as they have nothing real to take inspiration from and inevitably ideas will become limited. Lyle & Scott has 140 years of unique history it can draw on. If these references are executed in a contemporary, relevant way then there is no time limit.

What impact has Carolyn Massey had since she joined last year as head of design?

Carolyn has fully executed the challenge of contemporising the brand’s rich and varied archive. By building a strong team that blends the commercial with the creative, she has had a major impact.

What is the biggest challenge you’re facing as a brand right now? Controlled global growth and finding the right partners.

It always proves to be a challenge but we are well on the way to finding partners who can effectively communicate the brand in emerging territories.

What has been your personal career path so far? Before Lyle & Scott, I was director of marketing at Fred Perry for many years. Prior to that I had my own consultancy and before that I cut my teeth as communications director at PR company Exposure.

What was the last good book you read?

Patti Smith’s Just Kids. New York City at that time [the 1970s] was definitely a place I would like to have been.

For an extended version of this interview go to www.drapersonline.co.uk/fashion

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