Drapers 8may2013combined by Keely Stocker

JUNE 8 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com

Hart’s desire In his first-ever interview, Asos’s James Hart is hungry for more success

ECOMM Want to open STYLE COUNCIL The a pop-up? A new trends being backed website can help / P22 for spring 14 / P26

SHOPWATCH Soho

hosts Nudie Jeans’ first UK store / P20

THE WEEK Drapers COVER IMAGE: TOM CAMPBELL

Asos’s Hart breaks his silence to speak to us

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Grace Chamia, Harriet Osborne Crowley

With the sun shining for once as I write this, it’s a very warm welcome to this week’s issue of Drapers. Inside, as you may have noticed from our cover shot, we had the great privilege of speaking to one of the industry’s most influential and yet least vocal individuals, James Hart. As one of the founding figures behind Asos, and having been with the company ever since he was recruited by Asos chief executive Nick Robertson in a pub of all places, Hart speaks to us in his first-ever interview about how the company has retained its spark and what he hopes to achieve in the future (see p16). Shopwatch this week is a review of the Nudie Jeans Repair Shop concept in Soho (p20). Also inside this issue we’ve taken a look at Appear Here, an online service for retailers and brands who are looking to open a pop-up shop (p22) and have also interviewed Crew Clothing managing director Octavia Morley, who told us why Ben Fogle makes the perfect ambassador for the retailer (p28). And don’t forget that all the latest news and views can be accessed via our website at Drapersonline.com (it’s free to subscribers – simply log on using your subscriber number).

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 08.06.13 REGULARS

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

2_ News Our edit of the week’s top stories, including an exclusive look at 2013’s salary landscape 10_ Opinion Comment from Lloyds Bank’s Keith Richardson and Lewis Tweddell of indie Lewis Yates 12_ Fashion Index Trading info from the UK and around the world, plus Indie Index 22_ Ecomm Website Appear Here wants to make opening a pop-up store easy 29_ Careers Climbing the ladder with Avon’s lingerie and apparel buyer for EMEA Amy Eadon 40_ Off The Record Gossip, stories and party pics from the week’s biggest events

20 FEATURES 16_ Close-Up

In his first-ever interview, Asos director James Hart tells us why he thinks of the etailer as one big community 20_ Shopwatch We check out Swedish brand Nudie Jeans’ first UK store, which also offers free repairs

DIRECTIONS 23_ This Week’s Hero

Men’s streetwear brand New Love Club is ideal for the festival season 24_ The Buzz Hot trends and brands, including Fred Perry’s charity auction and Gandys flip-flops 26_ Style Council Our panel of experts

pinpoint the trends they’re betting on for spring 14 27_ Brandwatch Accessories brand Common Sense is another winner from Scandinavia 28_ This Fashion Life We meet Crew Clothing managing director Octavia Morley

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 1

_Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief

News

Skills deficit creates two-tier jobs market / Recruitment /

Annual survey reveals chronic shortage of candidates in some industry areas and huge oversupply in others

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 2

By Catherine Neilan

A two-tier jobs market is developing in fashion retail, leading to businesses fighting over an increasingly small pool of skilled candidates. More than three times as many fashion buyers and merchandisers have applied for new jobs since the start of the year compared with the same period in 2012 – but the total number making it through to the next stage has fallen 7%. Recruitment agency Michael Page’s annual salary survey suggests the market is operating on “two streams”, according to its regional director for buying and merchandising Graham Lucas. Two tiers have developed whereby some parts of the industry – both in sectors such as value or specialist retailers or in roles requiring ecommerce and international skills – do not have enough candidates to meet demand. On the flipside, certain roles, particularly within buying, are flooded with applicants. “There are lots of people looking for work but on the whole that mass of people doesn’t marry up neatly with what’s available,” said Lucas. “They aren’t matching firms’ list of criteria. “The industry has become so much more adaptive to the ‘new normal’ state of play, but the skills base is still catching up,” he added. “Everyone is fighting for the same talent – and it’s a typically pretty small pool.” Senior merchandisers are also in more demand than buyers – a fact reflected in salary changes over the past year. For the first time, top merchandisers now take home the same basic salary as their buying counterparts. Merchandising directors now earn between £110,000 and £220,000 – a £40,000 increase at the top end. Buying directors’ salaries increased

Pay scale: the survey also looked at salaries in England by region

by half that amount over the year. Heads of buying and heads of merchandise are similarly level pegging at £80,000 to £125,000, while senior buyers or merchandisers now earn between £50,000 and £65,000. Lucas said the rise in merchandisers’ pay was also due to a lack of good candidates, and retailers’ growing investment in that part of the business, while buyers’ salaries remained flat. More than half of respondents, or 53%, said they expected salaries to rise

and expected a bonus – a drop on last year, when 58.3% expected a pay rise. However, this remains “significantly” higher than the UK average. Businesses fighting over a small pool of candidates are in the spotlight as a result of these changing dynamics, with individuals conducting far more due diligence than ever before. To read editor-in-chief Caroline Nodder’s comments on the salary survey’s findings, turn to p10

/ Recruitment /

Do more to help women reach the top, retailers told

tom campbell

By Catherine neilan

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

News in Numbers

categories in the neW-look drapers aWards – see WWW.drapersaWards.co.uk

total number of Winners at Graduate Fashion Week leading by example: wBc’s wendy hallett

“Even retail, although it’s more female-friendly than some industries, still when it gets to the top it’s all men. All my contacts, the ones who make the decisions, are male.” The WBC is also calling for the Government to create a champion role for older women “to really help businesses understand why they should retain them”, Hallett said. The WBC’s proposals also look at the foundations of women’s careers, and this week Hallett has been attending Graduate Fashion Week and plans to work with universities on the matter.

1.5%

non-Food deFlation in may, according to the brc

3 stores in germany planned by karl laGerFeld

/ Independents /

Mystery buyer close to Coggles deal York indie Coggles looks set to rise from the ashes of administration after securing a buyer. The premium retailer was placed into administration on May 7 after failing to secure new investment, with Andy Clary and David Acland of insolvency firm Begbies Traynor appointed as joint administrators. The deadline for final offers was May 31. Clay this week told Drapers that Begbies Traynor had accepted an offer from an undisclosed party, and he was optimistic the business would be saved. Clary said: “We are going through due diligence but we expect it to complete

seven to 10 days on from May 31.” Clary would not disclose who the potential buyer was, beyond confirming it was a company rather than an individual, adding that the majority of the business will be sold. Once the transaction is complete the funds from the deal will be used to pay creditors, although it is not yet known how much they will receive. Prior to its collapse, Coggles had been seeking a second round of investment worth £4m to aid further growth, following an initial £3m funding from Manchester Square Enterprises, a subsidiary of Pentland Group, in 2011.

11%

rise in online sales for non-food retailers in may, according to the brc/ kpmg

0.3%

rise in like-for-like sales at Moss Bros in the 18 Weeks to June 1

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 3

Retailers are being called on to address the disparity between the number of women working in the industry and the tiny percentage that break through to the top level. More than half of the employees in the retail sector are women – a 2012 survey puts the total at 57% – but according to a second study, just 5% of them make it to chief executive level and 13% to managerial levels. Only 8% of purchasing decisions are being made by women. As a result, businesses are being called on to improve work flexibility and offer more training opportunities to women in the middle and later stages of their careers. The Women’s Business Council (WBC) this week put forward a series of proposals to government and industry leaders, calling on changes to be made throughout the industry. A launch event on Tuesday was attended by the likes of Marks & Spencer and Asos. WBC member Wendy Hallett, founder and chief executive of concessions business Hallett Retail, said the industry had “a long way to go” in improving the discrepancy between the number of women working in the sector and those making it into senior positions. “It is shocking,” she told Drapers.

fishing for talent what skills do retailers want and how can you get them?

News

International /

Topshop targets China in wake of Hong Kong debut

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 4

By Victoria Gallagher

Topshop is eyeing further locations in mainland China, including Beijing and Shanghai, after opening its first store in Hong Kong this week. The Arcadia Group-owned chain has begun its assault on Greater China with the 14,000 sq ft flagship on Hong Kong’s Queen’s Road Central, which opened on June 6. Speaking exclusively to Drapers, managing director Mary Homer said she hoped it would be the first of many, identifying Beijing and Shanghai as prime locations for growth. “We know through our experience of selling online in Hong Kong and China there is demand,” she said. “Space is at a premium, so when the opportunity came we snapped it up because we know there is a huge fashion-savvy customer base there.”

Further store openings will come, she added. “It’s just a matter of finding the right space. As the opportunity arises we will continue.” The Hong Kong store showcases the women’s young fashion chain’s ranges including catwalk collection Unique, premium line Boutique and its designer collaborations. It will also stock exclusive items such as T-shirts and beanie hats. Homer said the offering in China

‘Through selling online we know there is a huge fashion-savvy customer base’ Mary Homer, managing director, Topshop

would target a mid-market audience similar to the retailer’s UK operation. Topshop’s international expansion has been “accelerated” by the investment it received from US private equity firm Leonard Green & Partners, after Arcadia owner Sir Philip Green sold a 25% stake in Topshop and Topman for a rumoured £190m at the end of last year. Homer said the partnership provided the chain with a “huge opportunity”. She added: “They’ve got very experienced people and knowledge specifically in the US, which has been great, but it has also allowed us to accelerate our global expansion beyond the US and around the world.” The retailer has traditionally used the franchise model overseas; however, its move into China has been managed via a partnership with luxury Asian department store Lane Crawford’s new retail subsidiary, Lab Concept. “They provide the retail space, the operational expertise and the logistics and we manage the product and everything else, so it’s the best of both worlds – and very much a joint venture,” explained Homer. Topshop already has a presence in more than 30 countries including Australia, Poland and Turkey. What pitfalls must Topshop avoid if it is to succeed in China? See www.drapersonline.com/blogs

Multiples /

New Look to axe 90 stores in turnaround plan By Jill Geoghegan

High street retailer New Look is to shed up to a sixth of its UK stores as part of its “road to recovery”. The fast-fashion chain said it would cut its property portfolio from 590 to 500 in the next three to five years. While reviewing the portfolio, the business will also look to increase its average floor space, either through expanding existing stores or relocating into larger premises. Chairman Alistair McGeorge said New Look had “too many stores” in the UK and “only a small amount that are making money”. By opening larger-format stores, and further rolling out its new concept, the retailer hopes to improve profitability. New Look’s recently appointed chief

Breaking new ground: retailer is rolling out its updated store concept

executive Anders Kristiansen said the new stores had “less stock” and a “strong emphasis on visual merchandising”. “We’ve already experienced a 9.3% rise in profit in concept stores following the new fitting; our sales on products used in visual merchandising have jumped 20%,” he said. “It’s about creating an entire outfit and look for the customer, not just pushing one item in particular. The remodelling is about creating a better shopping environment for the customer.” McGeorge added that while New Look had “turned a corner, there are many more turns on the road to recovery”. He was speaking as the chain unveiled a rise in EBITDA of 29% to £189.2m, as operating profit increased 84.2% to £115.5m in the 53 weeks to March 30.

Picture caption style three lines deep please Picture caption style three lines

Young fashion /

Criminal Damage in women’s revival Streetwear brand Criminal Damage is launching its first womenswear range in four years as it looks to expand overseas via a new website. The 30-piece women’s range includes T-shirts, vests, sweatshirts, denim and varsity jackets. Wholesale prices range from £8 to £24, with a 2.5 to 2.8 mark-up. Owner Sunny Aytan said the creation of the womenswear collection was to “sustain demand” from customers rather than signalling a move away from the core menswear line. The menswear range has received celebrity endorsements from singers Rihanna and Beyoncé. The brand also plans to target overseas markets including Scandinavia, Asia and the US with the launch of its revamped website, which goes live on June 14. The site, Criminaldamage.co.uk, will act as an international springboard. Aytan said the “growth and popularity” of the brand had inspired the move. He told Drapers: “There’s big demand for us in Scandinavian countries, Asia and the US, so we are pursuing expansion in those markets first.” The reworked site includes a live blog and social network hub, as well as a series of music-based competitions.

neT gains How asos diRECToR jaMEs HaRT aiMs To ConTinuE THE ETaiLER’s suCCEss sToRy p16

News in Brief France says bonjour to Primark

Primark has secured its first location in France, with plans to open a flagship store in Marseilles. The value chain will open the store in December and a second is planned for the city of Dijon further down the line. Primark is also scouting for locations on the outskirts of Paris.

Pringle packs bags from Radley

Lorraine Pringle has left accessories brand Radley after less than two years. Pringle joined as brand director in November 2011 from Warehouse, but moved into a consultancy role last autumn. She is leaving to focus on her own business, the details of which are not yet known.

Fashion East designers set for LCM Meadham Kirchhoff, Liam Hodges, Kit Neale, Joseph Turvey (autumn 13, pictured) and Tom Ryling are some of the names at this season’s Fashion East menswear installations at London Collections: Men. Womenswear label Marques’Almeida will launch its first menswear range at the show.

Fiorelli opts for genuine leather

Accessories brand Fiorelli has unveiled its first real leather handbag range in 10 years as it targets the premium market. The five-piece autumn 13 collection will be available from next month. The bags will cost up to £200, compared with £49 for its best-selling Belinda Grab range.

The future of Republic could be in doubt after landlords refused to agree to property terms set out by the young fashion chain’s new owner, Mike Ashley. Between 50% and 60% of landlords have agreed to new terms, missing the 75% demanded by Ashley.

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Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 5

Planting the flag: an artist’s impression of Topshop’s Hong Kong store, which opened this week

/ Trading /

News

Tax bills soar at bricks-and-mortar stores

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 6

By Catherine Neilan

Bricks-and-mortar retailers of all sizes have seen their tax bills rise “significantly” in the past eight years as a result of the Government’s changes to tax policy. Business rates and national insurance contributions (NIC) have risen nearly 80% since 2005 while corporation tax has grown just 11%, a report by accountancy firm PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) has found. Total tax liabilities have risen on average by 65%. Between 2008 and 2010 alone, business rates have climbed 30%, compared with 6% for corporation tax. The PwC report focused on big businesses – retailers mainly within the FTSE 100 – describing the impact of these “indirect” taxes as “significant”.

Counting the cost: business rates have risen nearly 80% since 2005

/ Young fashion /

/ Barometer /

Nudie’s debut store heralds UK push Nudie Jeans hopes to expand in the UK after opening its first store on London’s D’Arblay Street last week. The 1,075 sq ft store is the Swedish brand’s first ‘global repair shop’ for denim where customers can have their old Nudie jeans altered and fixed for free as well as buy from the new collection. Nudie sales and marketing director Andreas Arhman said the “huge demand and popularity” of the brand in the UK prompted the move. “We’ve been present in the UK for many years through our wholesalers including Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Liberty so we know we have a strong following in London,” he said. “It made sense to launch this service here where a large number of our clients both living in and visiting London can make use of it.” Nudie now plans to increase its retail footprint further in the capital, eyeing up a potential location in east London. It also aims to open stores in Germany and Scandinavia later this year. To see our stores editor John Ryan’s opinion of the Nudie Jeans store, see Shopwatch on p20

But PwC’s head of tax policy Mary Monfries told Drapers that “the key message will apply to small as well as large retailers”. “What the data shows is that there is more tax paid in terms of business rates and NIC than corporation tax,” she said. “It applies to all industries, but it’s particularly felt in retail because those businesses tend to have more property and greater levels of employment.” Retailers face a total tax rate – in relation to profits – of 59%. This compares with 39% for companies across other industries. PwC’s chief retail adviser, Christine Cross, said business rates “represent a significant burden for those still trying to balance physical stores with online retail”.

The International Woolmark Prize (last year’s winning collection by Christian Wijnants, pictured) is being extended to designers in China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Japan, Pakistan and Lebanon. The prize includes $100,000 (£65,400)

Incoming N Brown boss Angela Spindler is to receive a ‘golden hello’, which could lift her earnings to almost £4m over the next three years

THRILLS

SPILLS Young fashion retailer Select’s April sales rose 11%, while the wider retail sector fell 2.2% exTra value PRImaRk’S onLIne baby STePS offeR a TanTaLISIng gLImPSe of THe fuTuRe www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

Unreliable weather saw fashion sales at John Lewis fall 7.2% in the week to May 25, despite total sales rising 4.2%

The number of multiple retailer stores in British town centres is expected to fall by 13%, or 5,000 stores, by 2018

BAD WEATHER

HEAVY DISCOUNTING

NON-FOOD DEFLATION GROWS

POP CulTure HoW a neW WebSITe aImS To make IT eaSy foR bRanDS anD ReTaILeRS To fInD a PoP-uP LoCaTIon p22

Tiger feet: an autumn 13 campaign image

/ Footwear /

/ Brands /

30 staﬀ to go in Jackpot and Cotton�ield sell-oﬀ By Victoria Gallagher

About 30 staff at Danish brand house IC Companys have been made redundant following the sale of contemporary brands Jackpot and Cottonfield. Last week, IC Companys sold the brands to Danish retailer Coop as part of a plan to simplify its business model. Although it did not disclose how much the deal was worth, IC Companys chief executive Niels Mikkelsen said the company expects cash flow for the quarter to grow by around DKK30m (£3.4m) as a result. Womenswear brand Jackpot and menswear brand Cottonfield will cease to exist as wholesale labels next year, with roughly 30 members of staff based

in Denmark being made redundant. The distribution of the brands to wholesale stockists will be “gradually phased out” by the end of the year. Coop is in the process of finalising how many staff will be offered roles but it is thought eight to 10 staff could transfer over, mainly those involved in design, production and sourcing. Jackpot and Cottonfield have a combined total of more than 50 standalone stores globally, which will continue to trade. An IC Companys spokesman said it was unclear if the stores would stay open longer term. Mikkelsen said the two brands would become a “cornerstone” in Coop’s improved clothing offer.

/ Sportswear /

Striders edge maps out global growth Women’s performancewear brand Striders Edge is plotting international expansion as it steps up the search for a UK ﬂagship store. The brand, which has 24 stockists, hopes to work with its current retailers to expand distribution into new territories. Striders Edge has stockists in Germany, Australia and New Zealand, but for autumn 12 is set to launch in Russia. The brand is also in talks with retailers in Japan and the US. Striders Edge plans to launch a

pop-up shop in central London, with a London ﬂagship to follow if successful. Founder Katy Biddulph said: “We are not trying to create a mass brand with a stockist on every high street. We want to be in the best stores across the best cities around the world, retaining an element of exclusivity.” The brand has brought part of its production back to the UK. Biddulph said it would create a “roaring trade” if all brands could bring part of their manufacturing to these shores.

Onitsuka Tiger eyes market share gains Footwear brand Onitsuka Tiger is hoping to gain market share in the sports footwear market by stealing it from the likes of Lacoste, Le Coq Sportif and Puma. The brand has been gradually increasing its range, oﬀering stockists 11 new styles for spring 13, a further two for autumn 13, and now a further eight new styles for spring 14. Head of brand management Lisa Hogg said Onitsuka Tiger had been too niche in the past. “We want to make it clear to the consumer that we are changing and becoming more relevant but we don’t want to alienate the consumers we have,” she said. The brand is growing its range with a mixture of new styles alongside fresh interpretations of old ones. Hogg hopes the wider range will attract new consumers and stockists and grow its market share. The brand also has its sights set on taking spend away from footwear giants. “We would be happy to get a few per cent from Nike, Adidas and Converse, as there are some consumers that are looking for an alternative,” Hogg said. Onitsuka Tiger will retain a strong focus on running shoes, however. “We want to keep a strong respect for our Japanese heritage,” said Hogg.

‘We would be happy to get a few per cent from Nike, Adidas and Converse’ Lisa Hogg, head of brand management, Onitsuka Tiger

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 7

end of the line: Jackpot (above) and Cotton�ield will no longer be wholesaled from next year

News

/ Young fashion /

Shop Direct unveils Definitions and prepares for own label cull

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 8

By Catherine Neilan

Shop Direct is looking to streamline its womenswear sub-brands as it launches a “cash cow” label called Definitions. Group product director Karl Doyle last week revealed a capsule collection for the new range, which will drop at the end of this month before “launching in earnest” with a 100-piece collection in September. Definitions, sold through the Very fascia, is aimed at 25 to 40-year-olds and will “centre around wardrobe builders”, Doyle said, offering a distilled take on trends such as prints and monochrome, rather than the slavish “fashionista” approach of stablemate Love Label. But the launch may also herald the demise of some of Shop Direct’s other sub-brands such as bridalwear range Berketex, 50-plus line Savoir and beachwear label Resort. Doyle, who recently joined the business from Marks & Spencer, said he was “not someone who works with a lot of brands”, describing the end result of such an approach as “too schizophrenic” for consumers. He plans to retain Very’s trend-led Love Label, casualwear brand South and the new day-to-evening line Definitions.

Direct action: Definitions (pictured) is pitted against Zara and Next

A review is taking place over the next couple of months to establish the future of the remaining brands. “Anything outside of that, you have to question what you are doing,” he told Drapers, noting the team had already axed some brands. “We are working out how many we need and, if any more were to go, which they would be.” Doyle added: “It’s much simpler when you’re dealing with fewer potential brands – if you can’t house a product within one of three sub-brands you’re doing something wrong.” He described the launch of Definitions as “the biggest single move” in Shop Direct’s new approach, describing it as the “big cash cow in the market”. Very has positioned the label alongside Zara and Next, with price points around 10% less than its competitors initially. However, Doyle said Definitions had “leverage for more price elasticity” if the etailer decided to up its quality. “If we invest in better fabrics and trims, I think the customer will pay that for this collection,” he said. Doyle said within six months he expected Definitions to rival its younger sister line, Love Label, in size and stature, but had the potential to outgrow it.

/ Shopping centres /

Retailers sign up for Canary Wharf extension By Catherine Neilan

Canary Wharf has signed the first six fashion retailers for its Jubilee Place shopping mall extension, which will open its doors in November. Banana Republic, Cos, Oliver Bonas, Orlebar Brown, The White Company and Emmett Shirts have all taken units within the extension. The new 44,000 sq ft area is being redeveloped from an old car park, and the walkway has been open to the public since March. It is the first of several retail expansions

planned at Canary Wharf over the coming few years, and will be followed by a 115,000 sq ft development above the area’s new Crossrail station, among others. Orlebar Brown founder Adam Brown – who last week featured on the front cover of Drapers – said the development would “become a natural home” for the men’s swimshorts brand. “Roll on November when it opens,” he added. Orlebar Brown will take an 813 sq ft unit and Banana Republic has signed up to the largest unit so far, occupying

Getting bigger: Jubilee Place

7,627 sq ft. The White Company’s store will be 3,343 sq ft, while Cos has taken a 2,372 sq ft space. Canary Wharf Group chief administrative officer Camille Waxer said the growing office population at the east London business hub meant it was “the right time” to expand the retail offer. As well as the fashion retailers, French-style cafe chain Le Pain Quotidien and cosmetics businesses Bare Minerals and Rituals are also taking units.

Seeing SenSe accessories braND commoN seNse combiNes simPle fuNctioNality with stylish DesiGNs p27

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Bleak forecast is ‘crisis’ for fashion To read all the latest news and to comment on stories, go to www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 9

Ladylike lace and sumptuous silks feature in Burberry Prorsum’s women’s spring 14 pre-collection. The range includes slim-fitting pencil skirts, shirts and plunging gowns in white and pale yellow offset by charcoal and forest green.

cos sets sail for turkey

OPINION

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 10

The unstoppable rise of fashion’s uncommon people _ Caroline Nodder

he revolution that has happened within the fashion business in the UK over the last decade, spurred by the rise of digital, the demand for fast fashion and the spending squeeze, has touched every part of the sector but none more so than the people who work in it. Gone are the days of two buying seasons with room to breathe in between; most fashion workers are now working constantly, longer and harder than ever before, just to stand still. And the revolution has meant the skillset needed by fashion businesses has also changed, as you can see from our lead story this week (p2). With technology and customer preferences advancing almost every month and online having stolen a march on bricks-and-mortar stores, the skills most in demand are those associated with digital development and overseas expansion. In fact in many cases the roles being created have not existed before so the skills must be brought in from other industries, many from outside the UK. At a time when the industry is going through such a fundamental change, most companies are still experimenting with the roles and skills they need and no two are structuring their teams the same, so there is a lot of movement in the teams behind the big businesses at the moment and a lot of people entering the job market. But as these areas of the sector grow there has also been a significant fall in demand for those with the

traditional fashion skills that were the basis for most careers up until the last 10 years. One chief executive told me last month that he and his board colleagues had taken a look at their own skillset a few years back and realised that not a single one of them had any experience running an online business, so they bought in the skills they needed from a digital business in the US. This is likely to be a situation many senior execs now find themselves in and the process is changing the mix of roles in fashion. You only have to look at arguably the biggest success story right now, Asos, to see how its structure and indeed the people at the top are not typical of the fashion old guard. Chief executive Nick Robertson cut his teeth in advertising, in fact, and in my view it was this ability to look at his business from an outsider’s perspective that enabled him to break new ground. Likewise anyone working in fashion now in a buying or merchandising role will need to ensure they hone their skills in a multichannel environment and also potentially gain experience outside the UK – knowledge that will become invaluable when they then choose to return. Either way the fashion leaders of the future look set to be a very different breed to those at the helm today and buyers and merchandisers wanting to move up are going to need to look outside the UK or move sideways to get the experience they will need to progress. Drapers editor-in-chief / caroline.nodder@emap.com

TELL US YOUR THOUGHTS – HOW IS YOUR BUSINESS FINDING PEOPLE WITH THE SKILLS YOU NEED? www.drapersonline.com

JOIN THE DEBATE Add your views to the week’s top stories by going to www.drapersonline.com

/ Talking Business /

_ Keith Richardson

he must-have fashions of the season are months, maybe years, in the making. These long lead times require planning and investment, and open dialogue with finance providers is one way to increase competitiveness. There’s a lot for fashion retailers to consider, not least their margins. Few can afford to secure a product from Europe or Asia only for currency fluctuations to leave them paying more. Long-dated foreign exchange and flexible currency products can help in this instance. Financing and guaranteeing delivery of stock is also a key issue. Larger retailers use their own good credit profiles to offer suppliers accelerated payment terms.

Advancing the total value of invoices in this way improves suppliers’ cash flow so they can invest to meet demand and, ultimately, pass on better price points to the retailer. If a retailer buys large portions of stock, they may also be able to use an asset-based lending facility to boost their cash flow, freeing tied-up working capital to commit to other areas of the business. When pressure on the supply chain is par for the course, ensuring new lines are a success means meticulous planning. If banks provide strategy and reduce risk, retailers can significantly boost their buying power. Managing director in retail sector at Lloyds Bank Commercial Banking

/ Talking Shop /

‘Most retailers now recognise the power of ecommerce’ _ Lewis Tweddell

very day we seem to hear of independent high street retailers shutting up shop due to troubled financial times, and I’m determined my business won’t fall into the same trap. This October, Lewis Yates will have been open for five years and, thankfully, each year has seen growth and development for us. We are forever seeking to provide new products and services for our customers, so while we continue to focus our attention on the forthcoming buying season and consider which trade shows will unearth next year’s gems, I also have a dedicated team working to launch LewisYates.com – our new socially interactive ecommerce store.

Most retailers now recognise the power of ecommerce and marketing through social media, so to not have your hat in the ring, I believe, will be damaging in the long term. Our online store will provide all the things our customers tell us they love about shopping with us, but it will be made available to a global audience. At worst we are making our products and services accessible to our customers wherever they are, whenever they want them, and at best we are tapping into a whole new market, without committing to the risky financial overheads associated with opening a second shop. Owner of premium indie Lewis Yates in Billericay, Essex

NEWS & VIEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

05 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘Bleak forecast is “crisis” for fashion’ – Essentially, you must sell winter and summer items all year round to survive Darren Hoggett

02 Consumers have accepted that they need to wear layers and have a flexible wardrobe. All the more reason to design and produce more flexible clothing Rebecca Coutts

03 ‘Future of Republic stores to be decided this week’ – Great precedent for the high street if the landlords agree. Tough decision for them. How many 5,000 sq ft charity shops are there? Ezekiel Sweiry

04 ‘New fast fashion factory opens in Leicester’ – It is refreshing to hear someone put their money where their mouth is and support UK-made goods Anonymous

05 ‘Consumers want shops to change; not to change the way they shop’ – Factory owners are squeezing costs and creating poor working conditions because the retailers want everything cheap Anonymous

Online Poll This week’s poll result Will your high street still be going strong in five years’ time? YES

53% 47% This week’s question Do you have the skills you need to progress your career? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 11

‘Long lead times require planning and investment’

Fashion INDEX

‘Primark proves that ecommerce just can’t be ignored’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 12

his week, Primark announced plans for a tie-up with Asos to start selling a small selection of its fashion items online. Primark, which had no online presence until now, at present has 257 stores across Europe and recently reported a 24% increase in sales. As a result, it has long been hailed as a success story for the UK high street. While the rest of the retail world has been obsessing over selling online, Primark has been powering ahead despite having no online business. So why does such a successful retailer feel the need to go online? Probably because it makes good business sense. Primark’s initial online venture will see it selling just 20 items via Asos. This will allow Primark to expand its offering even further, while effectively being able to ‘dip its toes’ in the water of ecommerce, without fully committing to an online offering. At the same time, Primark will be able to leverage Asos’s high-quality infrastructure by using a proven, ready-made platform for its foray into online. Selling via Asos will not only give Primark a new international audience but will also strengthen its position in the multichannel world. Strategic tie-ups like this are becoming increasingly popular as a successful way of venturing into ecommerce, with Morrisons also recently announcing a deal to sell online via Ocado. These partnerships show that some retailers who are later to the ecommerce party than their rivals see value in working with an established, purely online partner in order to reap the greatest benefits. While some retailers have rushed the online decision in the past, these two retail giants will be hoping their considered approach proves to be less disruptive and more beneficial. After all, retailers that take their time to devise an online strategy have the advantage of being able to learn from others’ mistakes, and will theoretically be in a stronger position to succeed. Primark’s move in particular highlights the importance of understanding and adopting a multichannel strategy – even if you are already a successful mass-market retailer. Even though Primark has been successful without an online presence thus far, it may be that this strategic tie-up will deliver the retailer even greater success, and some wonder whether it is the precursor to an even broader long-term tie-up. Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures Week 22 – May 27 to June 2, 2013

+9.2%

-3.1% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The Experian FootFall report shows a 9.2% week-on-week uplift in national shopper traffic and a decline of 3.1% year on year. Bank holiday Monday delivered a drop of 16.9% year on year with many people choosing to stay home and make the most of the sunny weather. This time last year saw the start of the Jubilee celebrations, which pushed the bank holiday to the following week, although festivities began on the weekend of June 2 and 3. This is evidenced in the year-on-year decline of this weekend’s figures, down 9.9% and 7.6% for Saturday and Sunday respectively.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending June 2, 2013

-2.2% -3.28% Total fashion

Clothing

-9.26% Footwear

Fashion retailers struggled this week with the strong comparatives from 2012 a driving factor behind the negative growth. Mainstream fashion demonstrated some of the weakest figures. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 8.4% BIRMINGHAM 45.9%

2. Merchandising 6.9% 3. Production 6.5% 4. Buying 5.5%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Womenswear design 3.9% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – SPORTSWEAR RETAILERS

Sportswear stores have seen their worst performance since March 2012, driven by a sales decline in men’s fashion

73.7m

£15.06

Number of units

Average selling price

+2.2% -3.1%

£1.1bn

-5.3%

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending April 14, 2013 versus 2012

Expenditure

40%

0% KIDS’ FOOTWEAR

KIDSWEAR

MEN’S FOOTWEAR

MENSWEAR

WOMEN’S FOOTWEAR

Charlotte Wilks, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending April 14, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

WOMENSWEAR

Decline in sales of men’s sportswear to the under-45s

+9%

Rise in online sales at sportswear retailers

TOTAL FASHION

-14%

[Sportswear stores] are struggling in the full-price market – their share has fallen from 5.3% last year to 4.8% this year

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● MICHAEL KORS has reported strong

numbers to end its first full year as a public company. The Hong Kong-based clothing and accessories brand said fourth-quarter revenue rose 57.1% to $597.2m (£396m), with same-store sales climbing 36.7%.

FRANCE

● OXYLANE is to convert its Koodza discount

USA

ITALY

HONG KONG

stores in Italy into Decathlon Simply. The latest store, opening this autumn in Parma, will have the Decathlon Simply fascia. The France-based sports retailer aims to double its Italian store count within the next year.

● GAP is upgrading its computer systems and

SRI LANKA

retail applications to improve store operations and attract more customers. It hopes the move will make it easier to create programs to support mobile devices.

● ODEL, the Sri Lankan fashion retailer, has

reported a net loss of LKR16.4m (£84,898) for the quarter to March 31. Odel – owned by Parkson Corp – said it was hit by the Sri Lanka government extending VAT to large retailers.

Our jet-set luxury accessories and ready-to-wear resonate with consumers worldwide and we are excited by our prospects John D Idol, chairman and chief executive, Michael Kors

● URBAN OUTFITTERS will open its first

French store, in Paris. From September 2, the pop-up will be located in Galeries Lafayette’s flagship store on Boulevard Haussmann. The 1,076 sq ft space will stay open for five months.

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 13

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Young fashion WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

Best-selling brands of the week

Top 10

Top 10 1

French Connection

Diesel

Glamorous

Lyle & Scott

Fred Perry

Superdry

Religion

Diesel

Soaked In Luxury

Vero Moda

A Postcard From Brighton

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -4% year-on-year change

Religion

Farah Vintage

Jack & Jones

Armani Jeans

Superdry

Wal G

Guide London

Sugarhill Boutique

Boss Green

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Dresses

Tops

Denim

Knitwear

Shorts

Top 5

£69 AVERAGE SPEND

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -6% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Denim

T-shirts

Polo shirts

Jackets

Lightweight knitwear

£84

Top 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through 1

£10,946

Glamorous

Week ending June 1, 2013

Wal G

Fred Perry

Superdry

Armani Jeans

Soaked In Luxury

Farah Vintage

Diesel

Mish Mash

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Glamorous

Vero Moda

Soaked In Luxury

Only

Diesel

-12.8% FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 1, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

-13%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Jack & Jones

Armani Jeans

Farah Vintage

Native Youth

Mish Mash

INDIE WATCH

-0.94%

AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS

FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 1, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

43 THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

+9.26%

+7.86%

Week ending June 1, 2013

Lyle & Scott

of young fashion indies will attend fewer shows this season

PROFIt MARGIN

AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD

Data for April 22 to May 19, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 14

£5,058

October 17, 2013 The Waldorf Hilton, London WC2

Recognising innovation and talent within the independent retail sector There is also no better advertisement than a Drapers Winning logo for your shop window and website. This is surely a clear message to any potential customer that our business is one of the best. Keith Ewing, Managing Director, Number Eight Winner of Menswear Retailer of the Year

drapersindependents.co.uk

@drapersindies

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BOLD STRAP I Light strap

JaMEs hart I cLOSe-uP

hart of Asos In his first-ever interview, Asos director James Hart explains why he wants the etailer to be one big community Words by KEELY STOCKER Photography by TOM CAMPBELL

e don’t see ourselves as a retailer, we see ourselves as a community. Ultimately we want to create a personalised, seamless, connected experience for anyone, anywhere in the world.” this is what drives asos director James hart. having spent nearly two hours with him at the newly refurbished asos headquarters in Camden, the one word he repeatedly uses is ‘customer’. Working in the creative sector of ecommerce (and with the backing of a large organisation to fund new projects), it would be easy for hart to get carried away trialling fancy innovations. and in a way, he does. however, what hart also does is centre every single idea, change and update around the customer.

they are his core focus and it is arguably what makes him (and asos) one of the most successful ecommerce businesses in the world. Launched from humble beginnings in 2000 with the name as seen On screen, asos as it is known today has become an industry giant with a turnover of £495m for 2012, representing a 46% increase on the year before. however, hart acknowledges the business has suffered growing pains along the way, but today, he says, it is fixated on connecting with its audience, or community, and is investing in new technologies on its website and across social platforms to do so. asked what being a community actually means, hart explains: “a fashion community includes us in the office, our suppliers, the brands, the designers, independents and the u customers. it’s everything from gaining

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 17

At the

cLOSe-uP I JaMEs hart

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 18

inspiration about what you should be wearing to discovering it and then buying it, to having a great service proposition to then owning it and managing your whole wardrobe, asking friends if they like it, deciding to wear it, deciding what to wear it with, then going out to party and seeing what others are wearing, then coming home, updating your wardrobe and deciding to sell some bits off. it’s the whole fashion life cycle.” IT’S A HUGE CHALLENGE TO BUILD this kind of interactive community but one you can be confident hart is ready to take head on. he says asos has spent recent years building all of the tools – the site, the magazine, the marketplace – but suddenly realised two years ago that it hadn’t really looked through the customers’ eyes – it had all the platforms but each was a different website with different log-ins and different baskets. “What customers want is all those tools in one place and they want it integrated. What we’re currently doing is rearchitecting all the platforms to make this possible.” that’s not all hart is working on. he tells me it’s not always the biggest changes that can make the biggest impact, but that what you have to do is measure everything. and not all of asos’s trials have been successful – i remind him of a sunglasses try-on feature on the website that asos trialled but later dropped, and question whether he sees this type of initiative as a mistake. however, he says: “i actually think that’s still a great idea and we are about to try another similar solution. With the original sunglasses try-on solution we just put it live, didn’t measure it, couldn’t prove a case for it, so couldn’t get funding to roll it out.” One new tool that has proved successful and will be rolled out across the entire site (it is currently across 75%) by July 2013 is ‘Buy the Look’, a tool that allows customers to buy a whole outfit in one click. however, even this wasn’t an immediate success. “We split test the tool and it showed an uplift so we put it live and then it didn’t really get used. We had put the ‘Buy the Look’ button on the right-hand side with ‘Complete the Look’. We then moved it next to ‘add to Bag’ and click-through went up by more than 1,000%. those small details can make all the difference.” another obvious part of building a community is social. “i’ve been conscious that fashion is an emotive topic and a social activity ever since we had a message board on the site back in 2002; the amount of chat on there took us by surprise even back then and we weren’t equipped to manage it, so we shut it down,” says hart. however, he adds that when newer forms of social networking came around such as

‘In social places, be social, and in fashion places, do fashion, but allow it to be shared because fashion is a social activity’

Facebook and twitter, asos spotted an opportunity to open up the conversation with its customers again. “i think what we’ve learned overall is that in social places, be social, and in fashion places, do fashion, but allow it to be shared because fashion is a social activity. Our Facebook shop didn’t work because people just want to be social there and have fun; our asos Life community didn’t work because it was a separate place to go to on our site. the asos experience needs to be shareable and a conversation throughout and in context.” asos is also investing in new innovation and ideas from outside of the business and a recent example of this is Whosgoing. hart says: “Whosgoing was an idea a couple of guys came to us with, which we really liked. it is simply an app to connect people around events; to find out where is popular and where their friends are going. We think it could be really useful and anything that makes the lives of 20-somethings easier is important to us.” But where did it all begin for asos? in a pub, of course, where a chance meeting with asos founder Nick robertson led to hart joining him and business partner Quentin griffiths as their

17 Number of years James Hart has worked with Nick Robertson

first employee at ﬂedgling product placement agency Entertainment Marketing. it wasn’t until three years later that the origins of asos were formed. hart was working his notice having realised marketing wasn’t for him, when Quentin read an article in a trade magazine about a lamp that had been featured on an episode of Friends, which generated more than 20,000 enquiries. “he realised we had the studio contacts, we could find out quite easily about the non-branded product used and could set up a portal telling people how to find what they’ve seen on tV. My ears pricked up as Nick said, ‘James, you got yourself a job yet?’.” as seen On screen was launched in March 2000 with just 30 products on the site. WHAT STRIKES ME MOST about hart is how humble he is about his own role in building asos into what it is today. Of the ecommerce experts Drapers spoke to before the interview, few have actually met hart, with some viewing his lack of industry interaction as arrogance, but i believe hart when he explains: “i just come to work and i do my job.” From a team of three, the business has now grown to more than 1,200 employees, but hart admits it hasn’t always been a smooth journey. Over recent years, the business has seen a number of high-profile exits and industry insiders questioned whether the business had changed from a young, creative start-up into a corporate machine. hart acknowledges there was a period when there was a danger of that being the case. “i looked around and thought we are not thinking about who we are and what we do – and eventually the customer will notice that. it was OK as sales were still strong but i could see on the horizon that it was something we needed to address. We had to figure out how to keep our personality in a big company.” With so much going on it’s hard to imagine how hart can keep up, but his response is simple: “i work with the customers, the business and the tech guys and bridge the gap between all three to create something that really works. i do the same today as i did at the start, just on a much bigger scale.”

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SHOPWATCH

nudie Jeans Repair Shop

_ Soho, London Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 20

JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. he has covered the sector for more than a decade

hat is it about Swedish brands that seem almost in spite of themselves to dream up names with comedic undertones? Maybe it started with Ikea and all those improbably named products, but now the field of play appears to have extended into clothing. With Nudie Jeans, you’d probably have to think quite hard to come up with a name that is both innocent and knowing in the same moment, and now the Gothenburg-based brand has opened its first UK store, deep in the heart of Soho. Not only will it sell new jeans, but it will take pre-owned pairs of Nudie jeans and repair them for free or take them from the owner in exchange for a 20% reduction on the price of a new pair. The repossessed jeans are repaired and sold as vintage. This is semi-altruistic retailing in action … at a price.

COnCEPT 

Beaten-up interiors with reclaimed-looking wood floors and distressed concrete walls are something of a Soho cliché these days. Nudie, however, has taken this design trope and used it to good effect – there is a simplicity that says Scandi. And as this is also, in theory, a workshop intent on restoring used pairs of Nudies back into service, the ground floor has a pair of sewing machines ready to bring things back to wearable condition once more.

VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG 

This is a two-floor store, ground and basement that is linked in feel, but differing quite a lot in terms of merchandising. The ground floor has jeans displayed on the wall and associated merchandise placed on runner rails or on

rails suspended from the ceiling. Stock density is quite low but leaves room for the workshop side of things. Downstairs, it’s all about the jeans wall, which is behind the service counter. Nudie Jeans is a unisex proposition and no distinction is

made between the genders as far as display is concerned. Instead, the shopper is presented with a workmanlike back-to-basics jean emporium, which does succeed in putting you in the mood for buying a pair of denims.

THE BASICS ADDRESS 29 d’arblay street, london W1f opEnED May 2013 AmbiEncE Workmanlike ToTAL fLooR SpAcE 1,075 sq ft

You have to like the openness of the fluent English-speaking, Stockholm-originating person who seemed to be in charge on the day of visiting – helpful, open and totally prepared to tell you all that you might wish to know about the brand. This may be a brand that deals at the more premium end of the denim market, but it is hard not to be persuaded by the relaxed people who work in the shop and for whom nothing seems to be too much trouble.

Levi’s, Acne, Cheap Monday, Diesel and on and on and on. There is a lot of competition in London’s denim market at all price points and the key to success is being sufficiently differentiated from the other brands in terms of both the brand’s image and the environment

Room for improvement 01

so what really marks out this nudie Jeans shop from the herd? even the workshop bit has been done at the denham store in shoreditch. 02

there has been very little noise about the store opening and perhaps some sort of marketing push might be in order. 03

What’s done is done, but the location of this one does look a mite off-pitch even in cliquey soho.

COmPETITIOn  from which the product is sold. Here Nudie Jeans comes somewhat under fire as both store and product do look a little like other jeans stores around the capital – and this is not a brand that is going to sell on price. Nonetheless, it will have its devotees and they are likely to spring to its defence.

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 21

SERVICE 

PRODUCT 

For the most part, this store really is about selling jeans and the entry price is around £89 and heading upwards to more than £200, depending on the fabric and which of the 10 fits you go with. You have to admire Nudie for its choice of names too

with Grim Tim, Slim Jim and Sharp Bengt all being fits and providing a taste of the idiosyncratic nature of the brand. This is not a flash brand, however, catering instead to the tastefully understated and relatively well-heeled denim cognoscenti.

VERDICT ideal for the nudie fans

It’s hard not to wonder if we have a surfeit of jeans from which to select. That said, this is a welcome addition to Soho, principally for the brand’s democratic nature and warm welcome. The thing about denim brands is that they blow hot and cold – and there are few perennials that possess the cool factor. Nudie Jeans has been stocked around London for some time, but whether a standalone shop will be enough to persuade denim hunters that this is one to seek out is a moot point. A goodlooking store, which may be 35 50 enough in edgy Soho.

to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

ECOMM

EMPTY PROPERTIES

RETAILERS AND BRANDS

APPEAR HERE

Want to be a pop-up star? New website Appear Here makes it easy for retailers and brands to take temporary lets on empty stores

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 22

KEELY STOCKER is online editor at Drapers and has extensive knowledge of online fashion and high-traffic websites

op-up stores have become a popular concept over the past few years and start-up business Appear Here aims to make that process as simple as booking a hotel room. Appear Here, which launched in January this year, is a portal that connects retailers to landlords with retail space available for rent. The platform works with a number of landlords across different UK cities and shows retailers when retail space is available, whether it be for one day or up to six months. Founder Ross Bailey launched the business after setting up a pop-up shop for his own brand, Rock & Rule, on Marshall Street, near Carnaby Street in London, in summer 2012. Bailey says it took just 12 days from the initial idea for the pop-up store to open. As well as making a profit, opening the store significantly raised the profile of T-shirt brand Rock & Rule. What Bailey also noticed when the pop-up was open was the amount of people coming in store to ask about the space and how he had got it. This led to the idea of Appear Here. “I want to change the way people rent space – it should be flexible, accessible and simple. Lots of spaces are left unused. We want to open them up to people with great ideas,” says Bailey. The site has launched a new feature this month called Destinations, which takes an in-depth look at six districts in London (Bailey plans to roll out further locations in the future). Editorial content and images are created for each district in order to give anyone coming onto the site a clear picture of that area. Bailey says: “Destinations is a guide to locations in London with an editorial

feel like a magazine, so when you find a space it isn’t just a dull listings site. The guides explain the area, neighbouring retailers and show featured spaces available for flexible rents. We sourced some of the best photographers, so people can fall in love with an area, understand the audience and see what they look like. Whether you’re a start-up or an international designer, you want to fall in love with the area, not just the space.”

A sense of place: as well as rental listings, the site offers an in-depth look at selected areas (below)

In terms of how the site works, brands or retailers can request a space from the site and landlords are given access to a dashboard that allows them to approve or decline a booking. The concept allows retailers to test an area for a short time or promote a new range, and gives pure-play etailers the chance to meet customers face to face. For customers, it could mean high streets become appealing again, with pop-ups filling the space left by empty stores. One pure-play etailer that has worked with Appear Here in a number of locations across the UK is young fashion brand Candy Kittens. Bailey says of its success: “[At its] Chelsea store Candy Kittens got four times return on its investment in four weeks and saw an increase in online sales. Its stores to date have created a press reach circulation of over 20 million.” Whether for PR or sales, pop-up stores have been proven to create a reaction and generate excitement on the high street. If Appear Here can make this process simpler for retailers and encourage more of these campaigns, it can only be good for customers and retailers alike.

DIRECTIONS

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 23

Printed T-shirts are a signature item in the New Love Club range

This week’s hero

NEW LOVE CLUB When it comes to fresh-looking streetwear, men’s brand New Love Club has been on our radar for a while. Suitable for a bright young customer, it has attracted stockists including Topman, and as festival season kicks off there’s no better time to snap up some short-order product. Look out for new add-ons such as shorts and backpacks this season, as well as its signature printed T-shirts. Brand director Aaron Colaco told Drapers that global expansion and capsule ranges are coming up for the label, and with a mark-up of 2.7 this is a club retailers should be clamouring to join. Wholesale prices range from £8 to £15. Contact: 020 3627 0451

THE BUZZ ON THE RADAR — Fred Perry charity auction

/ Fashion foreword /

Why buying a brand isn’t always enough

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 24

_ Ian Wright

o matter how high or low rent a brand is, it’ll have a concept. Sometimes – actually, scratch that – a lot of the time these concepts are nothing more than guff and hot air produced with the sole purpose of making something perfectly fine like ‘we make nice things because we think they’re nice’ sound more complicated and allegedly impressive. Aside from the fact that in most cases the ‘keep it simple, stupid’ maxim is a good one to follow, it doesn’t hide the fact that there are so many ideas, backstories, histories and inspirations out there. Last week I was in Amsterdam at the home of Stills, a beautiful womenswear brand with so much to say. Everything at the label is carefully considered and every part of the experience is crafted, from the collection’s fabrics, colours and cuts to the peaceful, thoughtprovoking flagship store interior (see Drapersonline.com/ unzipped for photos) and even the collection co-ordinated snacks (see @Drapers_Magazine on Instagram). On pulling away from the store and out of Stillsworld, I was left pondering how a predominantly wholesale brand like this gets what’s behind the brand in front of its customers. It’s all too easy for a label’s story to get lost in a multi-brand store as space and time limits mean this is the first thing to go when presenting a collection. But making that extra effort is so important: when looking at a brand to stock, part of its essence is osmotically absorbed into buyers’ minds. It’s part of the reason it was bought, so why hide this from the view of the consumer? Surely by presenting each brand’s story it’ll help the shopper navigate the plethora of labels with far more confidence, affinity and engagement than they would just a commodity on a rail. Letting customers into the brands’ worlds that buyers literally bought into can’t be that hard to do. Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget! Look out for...

Fred Perry is auctioning off 60 polo shirts customised by leading names from the fashion, music and sporting communities in the name of charity. Brands including Raf Simons and Stüssy, musician Damon Albarn and photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin are among those involved. From the start of this month each T-shirt is up for grabs as part of an eBay charity auction, in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. www.fredperry.com

Gandys’ army of ambassadors

/ Trendwatch /

Versus

Akris

DKNY

A BOLT FROM THE BLUE

Pop art aficionados will have noticed a nod to Yves Klein working its way through the spring 14 resort collections, with cobalt bursting forth as the shade of the moment.

MEN AT WORK See what the London Collections: Men designers have in store in next week’s issue

Drapers Footwear Award-winning flip-flop brand Gandys launched an initiative this month to raise money to open a children’s home in Goa. Founded by brothers Rob and Paul Forkan, who lost their parents to the 2004 Sri Lanka Tsunami, the brand already donates 10% of its profits to its Orphans for Orphans charity. Its latest mission sees the brothers seeking 230,000 customers to become brand ambassadors, matching the 230,000 lives lost in the tsunami. Through buying an exclusive pair from the Gandys pop-up in Selfridges’ Shoe Galleries, shoppers receive a unique ambassador passport, detailing how they’ve contributed to the brand’s target. Inspiring customer engagement and charity in unison: this is an enterprise worthy of admiration. The Selfridges pop-up opened on June 3 for one month. Prices range from £20 to £30

STUDENT UNION See all the coverage from Graduate Fashion Week in next week’s Drapers

STITCH LONDON SORTED SS14 | 23 & 24 JULY

THE SORTING OFFICE

21 - 31 NEW OXFORD STREET LONDON WC1A 1BA WWW.STITCH-LONDON.COM

Stitch London SS14 will have four clear sections; Menswear, Womenswear, Streetwear and Emerging. Each area will boast a carefully selected range of brands that showcase the best in the market.

FOR ANY FURTHER ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT JENNAGH DELANEY ON JD@STITCH-LONDON.COM

Do you need to talk about anything?

Totally free, confidential and independent

The Fashion Photography Specialist Product Photography Ghost Mannequins Creative Photography

Outside UK +44 845 766 0113 Text HELPLINE to 88010* helpline@retailtrust.org.uk www.retailtrust.org.uk

t: 0161 883 0888 e:info@thepointstudio.co.uk Retail Trust is a registered charity in England and Wales (1090136) and in Scotland (SC039684) Company No 4254201 (Company limited by Guarantee) Registered in England and Wales Registered Office: Marshall Estate, Hammers Lane, London, NW7 4DQ *Only for UK. Standard network rates apply

RT_280X210mm_FLPG_DPRS_AD.indd 1

13/07/2011 14:19

DIRECTIONS I THE STYLE COUNCIL

What trends do you expect to see for spring 14?

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This week’s panel

Mohammed Wasim Celebrity festival fashion is the trend we’ll focus on for spring 14 at Own The Runway. From cool LA vibes at Coachella to grunge at Glastonbury, there are always so many diverse styles on show. We predict the midriff top and denim shorts (Own The Runway spring 13, pictured) are here to stay for next season and we’ll be buying into this trend. We’ll also look at expanding our multi-brand offering.

Seema Malhotra Spring is key for Forever Unique (autumn 13, pictured) as there are lots of events taking place such as races and weddings. We plan to buy in line with the major trends of the season such as eye-popping saturated brights, bold exotic prints and geometric details. We’ll also be expanding our separates collection to include more everyday pieces.

KAREN DOUGALL Senior fashion buyer at young fashion chain Quiz

MOHAMMED WASIM Managing director of etailer Own The Runway

Karen Dougall At Quiz we always do really well in summer with our prom and wedding guest collections. We’ll be extending our range of floor-sweeping maxis and cute party dresses (spring 13, pictured) to suit all ages. In line with spring 14 trends, we’ll be giving a nod to candy colours and babydoll shapes in lace.

DANIEL JENKINS Owner of the eponymous menswear etailer

SEEMA MALHOTRA Owner and head of buying at women’s young fashion brand Forever Unique

Daniel Jenkins I’m looking forward to the return of British manufacturing for well made, fairly priced, elegant basics. While we have UK production of showstopping pieces down to a tee, it’s still quite difficult to buy a truly Britishmade, elegant essential. We’re doing everything we can to change that, including through our own British-made brand Purposeful Activity (pictured).

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

BRANDWATCH I DIRECTIONS

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Classic unisex staples make up the trans-seasonal collection

Common Sense

The accessories brand offers another Scandinavian masterclass in stylish simplicity, says GRAEME MORAN THE BASICS WHOLESALE PRICES £11 to £45 WEBSITE www.commonsense.se TELEPHONE 00 46 7 339 754 31

ometimes the simplest designs are the best, especially when it comes to everyday items such as bags. For decades the Swedes have excelled at creating this kind of product, balancing stylish simplicity with practical functionality. New Scandinavian accessories brand Common Sense is no exception. “The brand reflects a clear picture of our own personal hobbies, like being outdoors and

fishing, combined with a big influence from military garments,” explains the brand’s founder Kristofer Forss. “Our idea is to make stylish, timeless bags and accessories which work in both urban and forest environments. “I’ve always been interested in fashion but it wasn’t until about three years ago I took the plunge and started to focus on creating my own label. It was around that time I began to design my own bags as I saw there was a hole to fill in the market: timeless, stylish and durable products at an affordable price.” And the concise debut collection fits that bill, featuring classic unisex staples produced in sturdy thick canvas and quality

leather, designed to stand the test of time regardless of what you throw at them, while still looking good. There are leather-strapped tote bags, a drawstring fisherman’s duffle and two sizes of backpacks, as well as laptop and iPad cases, beanies and snapback baseball caps. Forss says this core, trans-seasonal collection will slowly evolve, with design tweaks and the addition of more colours alongside new styles and product categories, including shirting and outerwear. Currently only stocked in the UK by menswear indie Present in Shoreditch, if you’re looking for the perfect backpack, tote bag or laptop case, use some Common Sense.

DIRECTIONS I THIS FASHION LIFE

‘Our ambassador Ben Fogle typifies the brand values ... and he doesn’t look half bad in shorts’

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➝ The race was part of Crew Clothing and artist Steve McPherson’s ‘Fogle Short’ launch with charity Plastic Oceans. Can you tell us more about this partnership? We were founded in Salcombe in Devon, where our founder Alastair Parker-Swift and his family are based. We’ve stayed really close to our coastal roots [in terms of product and store locations] so when we got to 20 years old this year, we thought we had to do something special. So we looked for charities around the coast and came up with Plastic Oceans [whose mission is to reduce plastic pollution in the environment]. It’s an incredible charity; the plastic problem is growing exponentially, but it’s something we can really help with. Between supporting Plastic Oceans, rowing races and climbing trips, Crew Clothing is keen to promote its brand values. Is that vital to the brand’s success? We’re proud of our values. We are all about beautiful British design and quality for a customer who loves life. All our staff embrace that philosophy. [New ambassador] Ben Fogle typifies the brand values of getting out and about, balancing family, adventure and good causes. And he doesn’t look half bad in shorts! Crew Clothing has just entered Germany via a transactional website and a catalogue. How is trading there and how have you coped with its online model, where consumers pay for their clothes one month after delivery? We’ve had a promising start. We chose Germany because we’ve got a good wholesale business there and so far we’re having a good experience of [its online payment model]. Credit card penetration is not that high so customers need to be credit checked first. Our local partner has been great. We’ll probably enter one more [international market] by the end of this year and another next year. Your online business in the UK is doing rather well too… Online is growing at 20% and it’s the same customer that shops online as in stores. Click-and-collect has been an important development. It suits male shopping habits – it’s all there, in your size, in the store.

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Octavia Morley Crew Clothing’s managing director tells ANA SANTI why the retailer is rowing for charity – with the help of Ben Fogle You’ve just taken part in a rowing race with TV presenter Ben Fogle. Is that a normal way to spend a Wednesday morning? Sadly not, but in a couple of weeks I’m going on the office climbing trip. I’ve never done that before. We try to do social things in the office; that builds the brand and gets people involved. If our brand is about getting out and about, you can’t spend all your days in front of the computer. I used to row at university – that’s the last time I’d been in a rowing boat.

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To catch up on previous This Fashion Life interviews, make sure you visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion/people

CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here _ Amy Eadon ➝ What does your diary look

like today? A typical day is very varied and you never know what projects and opportunities it might bring. I work with a fun, fast-paced and dynamic team of buyers and we are constantly developing new products for 38 Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) markets, so the day is never dull. Today I caught up with supplier teams in the Far East, followed by a team sales and performance review meeting and a new cross-category ideas ‘show and tell’. This was followed by a supplier meeting to review spring 14 holiday products. This afternoon I have a meeting to review strategy for our branded controlwear, Body Illusion. What meeting are you most looking forward to today? I enjoy meeting suppliers and reviewing the products we are developing for the coming season. How did you get to where you are today? I started my career at Alexander McQueen as a fashion marketing graduate, subsequently undertaking roles in retail, PR, buying and sales and

➝

marketing. I also continued my passion for fashion and beauty working for MAC Cosmetics as a make-up artist. I moved on to head up lingerie and fashion apparel sales and merchandising at Tri Distribution, which led to an opportunity with LA-based [brand licensing firm] Maui and Sons. There I worked on buying and sales for lingerie and swim brands; one big project included launching The Pussycat Dolls lingerie in the UK. All of this led to my current pan-European role at Avon. What has been your career highlight? There have been several: working with the incomparable Alexander McQueen; fabric sourcing and working on a collection for Mick Jagger’s Rolling Stones tour outfits; working with The Pussycat Dolls to launch their lingerie and swim collection in the UK; and, in my current role, working with a fantastic team who have become some of my closest friends. Who is your mentor? I’ve worked with some great people who have really helped shape my career. My time working for

➝

CV 2010 Buyer, lingerie and apparel, EMEA, Avon Cosmetics 2009 Buyer, sales and merchandising, lingerie and apparel, Maui and Sons 2007 Buyer, sales and merchandising, lingerie and apparel, Tri Distribution 2004 Buyer, Visage Imports 2001 Make-up artist, MAC Cosmetics 2000 PR, Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen and his team was the most influential point. How do you see your career progressing? Avon has a strong focus on fashion and home globally and there is so much scope for career development internationally, which I would be keen to explore. The EMEA team is redefining

➝

product strategy, supported by a restructure and recruiting to build on our strong team, so career opportunities are readily available. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Have a passion for what you do and make the most of any opportunity. University was a fabulous experience; I would recommend a fashion degree – and gaining work experience as this will help set you apart. Don’t be afraid to make decisions and have courage in your convictions; work hard and be a team player. When you hit problems keep smiling; let your personality come through and be true to yourself. Salaries for this position range from £40,000 to £55,0000 (estimate provided by Henry Fox)

➝

If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 29

Working with Alexander McQueen put Avon’s lingerie and apparel buyer for EMEA on the road to success

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior Sunspel Final logotype MASTER

Sunspel is a fast growing luxury heritage fashion brand with a focus on quality and fabric which sells worldwide in over 100 high-end fashion stores including; Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and Mr. Porter. We are a privately owned brand manufacturing & outsourcing high quality men’s & ladies clothing, with our goods selling into wholesale, retail & on line for both UK & export markets. International Sales Manager and UK Head of Sales

Garment Technologist

We are presently looking for an International Sales Manager and UK Head of Sales. You will be responsible for opening new business and to manage existing accounts/relationships as well as developing the sales strategy for the brand, and manage all planning and forecasting. The role also involves managing agents and distributorships and working closely with product design and development to share market and customer feedback. This is a pivotal position for the business driving the growth of the critical wholesale channel.

We are presently looking to employee a Garment Technologist with experience of working with all product types covering jersey, knitwear, wovens, outerwear in both men’s and womenswear. Jersey experience is essential. Experience of developing and working with patterns would be preferable.

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Sunspel logotype Phase 3

Drapers /

Applicant requires a minimum of two years’ experience of working in the clothing industry. The successful candidate must have knowledge of the British luxury lifestyle industry and understand fabric, with good production skills. A great position is on offer here with a well-established and growing company.

For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers

Sales Administrator

Key Account Administrator

We are presently looking to employee a Sales Administrator is to liaise with all UK & overseas clients which are either retailers or independents, ensuring that wholesale orders are processed and tracked correctly and efficiently. Sales Administrators are the key contact between the Sales Managers and the customer, dealing with any queries or problems that may arise. Experience of managing Seasonal Forward orders, all stock orders, allocation, dispatch preparation and shipping would be beneficial.

We are presently looking to employee a Key Account Administrator with experience of managing the relationship with key customers, from working on collections, overseeing pricing and coding, to chasing in orders and to planning and working with Production to deliver within the deadlines agreed. You would be responsible for customer relationship management on the key accounts and to engage with the customers regularly in an efficient and effective manner.

For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers

To apply for any of our vacancies, please visit our careers site at www.sunspel.com/info/careers or email your CV and covering letter directly to recruitment@sunspel.com

Product Manager, Manchester

Competitive salary Excellent benefits package

The UK’s leading outdoor clothing and footwear specialists are currently looking for a Product Manager to join our team to create commercial, innovative and cohesive lifestyle product ranges in line with our brand strategy. To succeed you will have a deep understanding of lifestyle or sports/outdoor clothing and product markets across Europe, you will be an excellent communicator with good presentation skills, the ability to listen to and analyse different views, and be able to guide and present facts persuasively. You will be able to build great relationships across different teams, negotiating and communicating ideas whilst recognising commercial constraints and you must be able to motivate people to achieve a range of business targets. Please email your CV and cover letter to HRinbox@regatta.com

ProductManagerAd.indd 1

Seeking Luxury Leather Repair Specialist A fantastic opportunity has arisen for an experienced Leather Repair Specialist to join our new Repair Department. You will have a proven track record of working with luxury leather accessories. A minimum of 3 years previous experience working within this niche sector is required, as you will be repairing high value leather goods made from calf or lamb skin. You will also have strong communication and inter-personal skills and you will be highly organised. This position supports the UK Fashion Boutiques and will primarily be responsible for the repairs of luxury leather goods. The successful applicant will be based in Bourjois House, South Croydon. Please send your CV to: careers@chanel.co.uk

03/06/2013 15:38

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.luca@EMAP.com

Iconic brands. Exclusive designs. Prestigious careers. eCommerce, Buying, Merchandising, Design Central London

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House of Fraser is the home of prestigious names, iconic brands and a VIP experience for every customer. Our style is individual, with a philosophy built around creating, design and delivering iconic, exclusive brands like Biba and Linea. It’s a formula that has brought us great acclaim and huge success. Following a year of record growth, we’re offering outstanding opportunities for talented people. People who share our vision for a premium experience, offering the most exciting, innovative thinking in on and offline retail. To find out more and to apply, visit www.houseofcareers.co.uk

HEAD OF MERCHANDISING U P TO

£ 70,000

With a wonderful reputation for the finest luxury shirts and accessories Thomas Pink has become an international success story with stores in the UK, US, Europe, Dubai, South Africa, India and Far East. Thomas Pink is committed to being the leading international luxury shirt brand. Reporting into the Merchandise Director, you will manage merchandising functions across all channels and markets with responsibility for margin, stock control, reporting and budgets. You will be expected to develop a strategy which will positively impact on our revenue and profitability, and seek new opportunities to grow the brand whilst maintaining a constant customer focus. Providing multi-channel and cross-market analysis and forecasting, you’ll manage stock in order to support profitable revenue in all channels: Retail, Web, Outlet, Wholesale & Franchise. You’ll also develop channel specific merchandising tools to include wholesale OTBs,WISSIs and Web analytics, whilst supporting the growth of our wholesale business through development of sales and customer focused merchandising analysis. You’ll have demonstrable experience at Head of, Director, or Manager level in Merchandising, Buying or Planning, and will have ideally gained this with a luxury retail brand. You will need to have excellent organisational skills, be highly analytical, commercial, and demonstrate superb attention to detail. Your people skills will also need to be exceptional as you’ll be expected to lead by example and work in close collaboration with internal partners. If you would like to apply for this position, please send your CV and a covering letter to recruitment@thomaspink.com Drapers record_5 june 2013.indd 1

05/06/2013 15:59

DESIGNERS – BASED IN MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA WOULD YOU LIKE TO DEVELOP YOUR CAREER IN THE WORLDS MOST LIVABLE CITY? Forever New is a women’s fashion brand which celebrates the feminine beauty of women, and is inspired by global trends in fashion, art, music and theatre. With over 260 stores across eleven countries, we are rapidly expanding and are fast becoming a first choice fashion destination where our customers can get the latest ‘up to the minute’ international looks. Forever New is offering a rare and exciting life changing opportunity, with support every step of the way, including: • Full sponsorship provided, either individually or for a family • Return flight to the UK on your commencement • 6/8 Weeks fully furnished accommodation paid in full • Significant shipping costs to contribute towards relocation of furniture and belongings Forever New are currently looking for innovative, inspirational and experienced designers to join our high performing Head Office based team.

Senior Dress Designer Mentor and inspire a growing team developing inspirational dress collections, covering both the Northern and Southern hemisphere. You will be responsible for trend inspired design direction, development of mood boards and colour palettes in line with the Forever New hand writing, and designing a balanced range in collaboration with the Buying Team.

Blouse Designer Design collections for our Blouse Category. Work with buyers to develop mood boards and trend analysis, developing new collections every four weeks.

Embellishment and Embroidery Graphic Designer

Please send your CV together with a covering letter to recruitment@forevernew.com.au

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Working with the design team, design complimentary embellishment and embroidery ideas to fit the Forever New handwriting.

NEED A HELPING HAND? Are changes at home affecting your child’s education? Do you need a helping hand to support your child’s special needs? A small grant from the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust can make a big difference. For more information on how to apply please visit www.ftct.org.uk or call us in confidence on 020 7170 4117

educational grants

help with special needs

FTCT is the only charity that supports the children of families who work in the fashion and textile industry.

welfare essentials

mobility

Registered charity: 257136

JUNE 8 2013

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YOU WOULDN’T BUILD A RANGE WITHOUT THE BEST MARKET INSIGHT. SO WHY WOULD YOU RECRUIT WITHOUT IT?

Our salary survey gives the latest insights and market rates for 2013. As well as an overview of the market, you’ll find detailed salary breakdowns for e-commerce, fashion, food & FMCG, general merchandise and international roles.

Drapers /

Salary survey

Join the discussion in our LinkedIn group.

Visit our website for the full details: www.michaelpage.co.uk/B&MSalarySurvey2013

For further information please contact Graham Lucas at: grahamlucas@michaelpage.com or call on 07810 820735.

Specialists in buying and merchandising recruitment www.michaelpage.co.uk/bandm

2 X EXPERIENCED PRODUCTION PATTERN CUTTERS EAST LONDON – Depending on experience Two experienced Lectra trained production Pattern Cutters are required to join this expanding successful supplier of women’s soft separates across Jersey and Wovens. One position is to cover Maternity Leave for 6/12 months and the other is a Full Time position. You will work closely with the designers when creating new patterns and understand the critical path and the importance of time and deadlines given. A knowledge of grading would be useful, and good verbal and written communication skills are essential. You will be responsible for all fit alterations, spec sheets, ensuring garments are made to the requirements and standards of the brand .

CALLING ALL GARMENT TECHNOLOGISTS LONDON – Competitive Salaries + Benefits We are currently handling a variety of exciting new opportunities for experienced garment technologists for clients in the luxury, brand and wholesale sectors. Passion for product is essential. Opportunities include: Knitwear, Mens Jerseywear, Outerwear & Tailoring and Sports Performance to Footwear. Excellent understanding of garment construction, the manufacturing and development process from prototype to delivery. Confident fit management experience is essential. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640580’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640530’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640033’

PRODUCT DEVELOPER – MANDARIN SPEAKER LONDON – £26,000 to £30,000 Our Client, a luxury Fashion and Homeware brand, are looking to recruit a Mandarin speaking Product Developer. You be involved in managing the whole product life cycle from start to finish and in sourcing Italian printing mills and manufacturers for sampling and bulk production. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640395’

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MERCHANDISE MANAGER LONDON – Up to £60,000 My client is a leading heritage brand, positioned within the luxury market across apparel & accessories. Due to expansion they now have a new role for an experienced Merchandiser to join their growing team based in Central London. This is an excellent opportunity to make a difference and have full autonomy over the role.

INTERNATIONAL MERCHANDISER W1- CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive with Benefits Reiss is a dynamic fashion retailing business with a worldwide presence and an international team. This is role will involve individuals taking ownership of our International Merchandising team and work strategically to grow International sales through close liaison with the product and brand teams. We want to realise our potential in our own buy International markets through effective planning, trading and market liaison! GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639333’

SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER- APPAREL INNOVATION (M/F) NUREMBERG METROPOLITAN REGION- GERMANY – Competitive Develop advanced, market leading innovative garments and performance concepts (mainly for Outdoor), which improve brand competitiveness through product and technology leadership, enabling adidas to deliver added value to our athletes and customers. Responsible for effective strategic planning, execution and coordination of selected projects and activities with regards to Engineering and Development of advanced Garments and Apparel technologies. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640372’

SOURCING / QUALITY MANAGER LONDON OR LEEDS – £40,000-£45,000 subject to experience and location. A Senior Position within a busy high quality luxury fashion business. To research, locate and visit competent, best in class suppliers to suit the brand’s requirements for the current product mix and identify suppliers for growth areas in advance of requirements. Requesting samples, collating sample packs and managing the sample room. Maintain a factory database, visiting factories for quality and cost approval. Coordinate the development and approval of new suppliers with the Production Manager.

BUYER/ MERCHANDISER GLASGOW, SCOTLAND – Offering £30,000- £40,000 Plan future ranges through on-going analysis of current performance, reviewing competitor activity and ongoing consideration of trends. Forecasting and future planning. Creating and managing accurate forecasts for sales, stock and markdown. Managing the OTB and WSSI. Manage the intake of stock from point of receipt to shop floor. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639195’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2638307’

DESIGNER, PATTERN CUTTER/SEALER GRADER LEICESTERSHIRE – dependent upon experience Who’s Who Ltd is a well-established supplier of fashionable women’s & men’s knitwear to the high street. As our company is expanding we require a full new team for our knitwear & jersey wear department. An exciting opportunity has arisen for two talented and ambitious candidates to join our dynamic team as a Designer and a Pattern Cutter/Sealer Grader. The candidate should have a strong understanding of current trends and must show awareness of the fashion market and fellow competitors. Knitting/Fabric knowledge is essential - we will be working with high quality yarn, experience of sourcing and working with high quality yarn would be desirable. Pattern cutting knowledge is required.

SALES ACCOUNT MANAGER WEST YORKSHIRE – Negotiable based on experience Due to company expansion, we are looking for an experienced Sales Account Manager to join the team and assist in driving the business forward. The ideal candidate will be an experienced traveller, have an established network of suppliers and a proven sales track record with at least 5 years relevant experience. The role requires a large degree of self-motivation, enthusiasm and strong development & communication skills. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640569’

SALES MANAGER EMEA AMSTERDAM – £Excellent This is a great opportunity for a person to take responsibility for developing business in the emerging markets across EMEA. The Sales Manager will be responsible for women’s branded clothing. You will manage existing and new account relationships and this will include working with distributors and franchise partners. Monitor sell through and market trends. You will need to have sound wholesale sales experience with women’s branded clothing. Ideally with some International experience. Some travel will be required.. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640632’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639281’

QA MANAGER – FOOTWEAR LONDON – £55-60k with excellent benefits

We are currently managing a great opportunity for a QA Manager for this popular High Street retailer, renowned for their affordable and fashionable footwear and accessories. This is the perfect opportunity for a footwear specialist, who can further improve the quality of the products via vendor management, processes within the DC and ensuring product standards are met. Working closely with the Supply Director, you will provide QC knowledge to the product range whilst reviewing the critical path and implement any improvements where necessary. This is a superb opportunity for Senior Footwear operator to work in a creative and commercial business. Experience of SATRA footwear test requirements would be beneficial as would manufacturing experience.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639141’

PROTO MANAGER – WOMENSWEAR LONDON – £35-40k plus benefits Our client is the retailer of beautiful womenswear, known for their exquisite prints, use of bright colours and stunning fabrics. We are currently recruiting for a Proto Manager to be the Technical link between Design and Production. As a Proto Manager you will be responsible for working across jersey and wovens, creating accurate first specs and taking responsibility for supplier liaison when it comes to technical issues ensuring timelines are met to promote a ‘right first time’ approach. Candidates must have a good knowledge of fabrics, production processes and working with supplier in addition to an outstanding knowledge of garment construction. This role is suitable for someone operating currently as a Senior Technologist.

DEVELOPMENT ADVISOR LONDON – Competitive plus benefits You’ll be a Brand Ambassador, living the Brand Values and inspiring others to do so. You’ll love working with people, it’s what you’re known for. You’ll have energy & enthusiasm that captures people’s imagination and yet have the ability to work at multiple levels with key people in the business to drive critical projects right to the end. You’ll love variety, where no day is the same as the next. You’ll ideally already have management experience and have some knowledge of Learning & Development within Retail. Not only will you have the confidence to facilitate development sessions for small or large groups, you will also have the ability to be able to design & deliver development solutions for all our stores across the globe. You’ll also know that developing yourself is the key to being able to make a difference for others.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2638486’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639291’

JUNE 8 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2640601’

MENSWEAR DESIGNER WEST MIDLANDS – Up to £22k depending on experience We have an exciting opportunity for an ambitious Menswear Designer to work for a leading supplier to major high street retailers. You will be part of a dedicated creative team and this role is key in the future development and growth of the menswear division. You will be developing directional themes and mood boards, collaborating on and interpreting range plans. Designing capsule Menswear Collections as part of the team working on outerwear and leisurewear. You must have at least 2 years experience.

Drapers /

LINGERIE / SWIMWEAR TECHNOLOGIST LEICESTERSHIRE – Competitive Salary Our client is a leading supplier of swimwear and intimate apparel. They have a fantastic opportunity for a Lingerie/ Swimwear Technologist to join their business. You will be working closely with the design and merchandising teams. Getting garments fit approved, overseeing all amendments related to pattern and specifications. Conducting meetings with Buyers and customer technologists and attending fit sessions. You will have minimum of 5 years experience of dealing with lingerie/ swimwear and must be able to take responsibility for the fit and quality from initial design through the sealing process to bulk production.

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639269’

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

The Retail Stack

JUNE 8 2013

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Drapers /

t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

etailPR

PROVEN FASHION E-COMMERCE EXPERTS

BUY NOW WEBSITES THAT WORK

of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production. Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

RETAIL SUPPLIES

0800 45 11 22 morplan.com

01242 238373 | INFO@ETAILPR.COM | ETAILPR.COM

CREATIVE DESIGN CONSULTANCY

RETAIL SUPPLIES

STEAMERS

HANGERS

By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

Hangers & Display Products

“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs. Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

www.drapersonline.com

Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

www.redrosesoftware.co.uk

T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

Turkey CMT

Based in Corum, Turkey. 230 piece machine factory, working in cotton, stitching, ironed and packet goods. Manufacturer of: Work Clothing - Men’s Trousers - Women’s Skirts - Police/Army Uniforms - Tactical Wear www.ortaanadolutekstil.com.tr www.yiltextactical.com 00905072659184

GARMENT LABELS

Halcyon Blue

Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome

GARMENT ACCESSORIES

Rayflex Ltd Est. since 1989 Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

UK Manufacturers of all types of SHOULDER PADS and SLEEVE HEADS Units 6-9, (rear of) 35 River Road, Barking, Essex IG11 0DA Tel: 020 8591 9418

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190

NEW BUSINESS REQUIRED

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact: We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377. High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 Tel. 0048 502215339 Fax. 004868 4534854 wojciech.szwabowicz@classic-collection.pl http://www.classic-collection.pl/

www.drapersonline.com

JUNE 8 2013

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

Drapers /

SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request. We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics. Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities. Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

Drapers /

MAY 4 2013

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Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Contact: 07903368616

- Redundant - Overstock - Samples - Returns - Cancelled Orders

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

Sales Agents required, Apply Now.

41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

ORDER No.

DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

All types of stock required – cancelled orders, residual stocks. We buy, we pay, we collect and we de-label. Call 01132 444 514/ 0777 166 6633 Email westleetrading@live.com ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713 www.durablefasteners.co.uk

FREELANCE SERVICES

Stock wanted

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality.

Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk

Always Wanted

All cash payments and garments de-labelled if required

Contact Laura 07950310304 or

THE GRADING BUREAU

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

* Customer Returns * * QC Faults * * Samples * * End of Lines *

Westlee Trading Limited

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

salvageliquidator12@gmail.com

stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk– REACTION – DECISION clearance,PAYMENT immediate decision and payment. LSS Services Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or Unit 6 07836 744376 Atlas Business Centre Oxgate Lane London NW2 7HJ Tel: 020 8208 0404

Page 1

ORDER No.

Lollipops Boutique 1

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING

13:41

A/C No.

Contact Joe 07815 355 355 Email: personnel@verso.uk.com

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

21/4/08

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, ﬂowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website!

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

Established 1973 Established 1973

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS

Up to 10,000 units required per week. Minimum quantity 100 units. Prices paid up to £2 per piece.

01923 800074

JEANS BUTTONS

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

AUTHORISED

www.salvageliquidator.com

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

STOCK WANTED

WANTED

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

To MESSRS

Notice board

LININGS

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs. Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 info@datagraf.co.uk

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com

Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk. Tel: 0208 886 0494 TO LET Showroom/Office Space available – Prime Location

Offering a small Fashion/Textiles showroom space (250 square feet) in London’s West End Available immediately Contact Tel. 07931 174682

GRADING

DATAGR AF LTD Creative Pattern Cutting

Providing the best service for our clients Commercially aware and bespoke High technical ability combined with creativity makes us the leaders in our field www.fashionworks.biz

07751702952 / 07905965305 Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

FOR SALE For sale surplus fabric, knitted, woven & PVC, trims & garments some retro. Plus machines and thread. Good quality, variable amounts. 07791279083 textilefactorysurplusdr1@gmail.com

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com

Drapers /

JUNE 8 2013

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DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

OFF THE RECORD The world went to Regent Street, BrandAlley grew green fingers and Regatta partied in Ibiza

WHAT Regatta Great Outdoors – spring 14 product launch WHERE Santa Eulalia, Ibiza

WHAT The World on Regent Street WHERE The heart of London

Drapers / JUNE 8 2013 _ 40

An international shopping event was held on Regent Street earlier this month, with the road shut off to vehicles so people from all over the world could hit the shops. Retailers partnered with a country, with cooking demonstrations, live music and dance lessons on offer while shoppers browsed. The drinks Wines from across the globe.

WHAT BrandAlley is blooming lovely WHERE Chelsea Flower Show

Private Sales etailer BrandAlley scooped the prestigious Gold Award in the Fresh Gardens category at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show. It said the concept was created to reflect the designer lifestyle of its customers. Smelling of roses BrandAlley wasn’t the only winner this year, as a 100-year ban on gnomes was lifted for the first time.

Leisurewear brand Regatta launched its spring 14 collection in style on the island of Ibiza. A three-day international conference culminated in team games on Bora Bora beach, with the Brits picking up the silver medal after the German team clinched the gold. The food A selection of traditional Spanish tapas.

Shhhhhh!

Which retail boss insisted on calling in his own make-up artist before a Drapers photo shoot?

WHAT Warehouse summer party WHERE Shoreditch restaurant The Yard

Guests rubbed shoulders with singer Diana Vickers and Made in Chelsea’s Millie Mackintosh (left) while listening to pop star A*M*E (above and right, with Warehouse’s Lisa Byrne and Paula Stewart). They were also treated to manicures and mini-makeovers. The food and drink Mini-burgers and drinks served by Background Bars.

GOING TO A GOOD PARTY? Send your industry gossip, photos and news to Catherine Neilan at catherine.neilan@emap.com

June 12, 2013 Old Billingsgate London

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out Drapers and Retail Week are proud to bring you the paypal etail awards 2013, recognising the very best multichannel retailing has to offer.

THIS IS A SELL OUT EVENT LAST CHANCE TO BOOK YOUR TABLE!

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TO SEE wHO YOU wILL SEE ON THE NIgHT. For sponsorship enquiries please contact:

Julia Jones-Collins julia.jones-collins@EMAP.com 0203 033 2952

in partnership with: