DOGFISH HEAD
STILL ON FIRE 22 years in
draught lines fall 2017
WEYERBACHER'S NEWEST collab is for the
FANS
PHILADELPHIA'S best soccer SAM CALAGIONE OF DFH
BARS
TM
A M E R I CA’S
d e t a R t H i g h es
H E R I TAG E A M E R I CA N L AG E R
G a n sett.co m
/ N a r ra g a n sett b e e r
@ G a n sett b e e r
/G a n sett b e e r
MUST BE 21 OR OLDER TO ENJOY. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.
draught lines fall 2017 ON THE COVER: Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Brewing Co.
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contents 8 WEYERBACHER & JOSE PISTOLAS CREATE DALLAS SUCKS
10 PHILADELPHIA CELEBRATES HISPANIC HERITAGE MONTH BY CHRIS MUNDEN 15 THE BOOKSHELF COMPLETE IPA THE GUIDE TO YOUR FAVORITE CRAFT BEER BY JOSHUA M. BERNSTEIN
16 SAM CALAGIONE OF DOGFISH HEAD GETS DRAUGHTED Editor in Chief Maryanne Origlio
Art Directors/Photographers Loren Leggerie Michael Kuchar
Senior Editor Maureen McCoy
Contributing Writers Jessica Lawrence Doug Williams
Guest Writers Lew Bryson Christopher Munden
Mark Your Calendars Pints in the Square | Newtown Square, PA September 9, 2017 – Ellis Preserve Newtown Beerfest | Newtown Borough, PA September 16, 2017 – The Stocking Works
A Few Words From The Editors...
Dear Beer Aficionados,
Kennett Brewfest | Kennett Square, PA
Did you know that Beer Makes Everything Better? Well if you’ve been to any beer festivals lately, you may have noticed that phrase printed on t-shirts worn by tons of brew-loving attendees. And naturally, we couldn’t agree more.
September 30, 2017 – Historic Kennett Square Sly Fox Can Jam Music Festival | Pottstown, PA September 30, 2017 – Sly Fox Pottstown Brewery & Tastin’ Room KOP Beerfest Royale | King of Prussia, PA October 5 & 7, 2017 – King of Prussia Mall Pour the Core | Philadelphia, PA October 21, 2017 – The Navy Yard Pottstown Brew Fest | Pottstown, PA October 28, 2017 – Norco Fire Company Washington Crossing Fall Brewfest | New Hope, PA October 28, 2017 – Washington Crossing Historic Park (North)
For more information about these events, and others visit our website: draughtlinesmag.com
For an electronic version of this publication, visit: draughtlinesmag.com Like us on Facebook
Exactly how beer makes everything better can mean many different things. But there is scientific proof that enjoying two beers – no more, no less – actually enhances creativity. According to researchers at University of Illinois at Chicago, consuming just the right amount of beer (enough to raise your blood alcohol level to 0.07) reduces your ability to pay attention to the world around you, freeing up your brain to think more creatively. In other words, a relaxed brain is a creative brain. Maybe this explains why brewers keep coming out with more and more innovative beers. Our feature article about Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione is a case in point. A professional brewer since 1995, Calagione probably dreams up more beers than he can make. His latest creation SeaQuench Ale, a tasty, lime-infused beer with a dash of sea salt, is sessionable, works well with food and hydrates like Gatorade. Written by Lew Bryson, it’s a great read and a peek inside the mind of one of the most celebrated American brewers. BTW – check out “Pre-Game” on page 27 for info on Dogfish Head’s premier cask beer and music bash Analog-A-Go-Go.
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Brewer creativity isn’t just about the liquid. You’ve got to love a beer called Dallas Sucks. Joe Gunn and Casey Parker, owners of José Pistola’s and Weyerbacher’s Josh Lampe collaborated on a beer that’s the “perfect combination of the sensibilities of the superior Philadelphia beer scene and absolutely nothing from Dallas.” Dallas Sucks is an easy-drinking pale ale you can drink from your pregame tailgate party right through the fourth quarter. Flip to page 8 for the whole story.
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We’ll let you discover the rest on your own. But for now, there’s nothing more to say than… Fly Eagles Fly!
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is a publication of Origlio Beverage. All rights reserved.
3000 Meeting House Road, Philadelphia, PA 19154
Cheers, The Draught Lines Editorial Staff
R
AVE EVIEWS
Samuel Adams Octoberfest Boiled Brats
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o Oktoberfest feast is complete without beer… and brats. So slip on your lederhosen, grab your stein and sink your teeth into these amped up sausages made with Sam Adams Octoberfest. Hearty and smooth, with a deep malt complexity and roasty sweetness, this multiaward-winning lager is one of the top selling Oktoberfest beers in the world!
Ingredients 1 large white or yellow onion, coarsely chopped 8 fresh bratwurst 24 oz. (3 cups) Samuel Adams Octoberfest 8 hotdog or torpedo rolls, lightly toasted Optional accompaniments: ketchup, mustard, relish, sauerkraut
Preparation In a large saucepan, combine the beer and onions. Add the bratwurst and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until the brats are heated through. Adjust heat to maintain the simmer. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, lift brats from poaching liquid and nestle in the rolls. Top with any of the accompanying condiments and serve. -Recipe courtesy of Samuel Adams
“Beer is supposed to be fun and Oktoberfest celebrations are fun. They embody this wonderful German brewing heritage. And they showcase the warmness, friendliness and coziness of beer.” - Jim Koch to IndyStar, a division of USA Today
BEER
ABITA BREWING
REDISCOVERED
Firestone Walker Pivo Pils The Best of Both Worlds by Doug Williams
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Grace Tavern co-owners James Fernandes and LuLu Maynard
e’ve all been there… you walk into a bar with dozens of taps, expecting to find something crisp and refreshing, only to discover that nearly every beer on the list is an IPA. LuLu Maynard of the legendary South Philly haunt Grace Tavern, knows the feeling all too well. “The beer scene is just flooded with these overly-hopped IPAs. Great beer and classic styles are being overlooked because IPAs are everywhere.” One of the beers that Maynard says deserves a second look is Firestone Walker Pivo Pils. “They knocked it out of the park with this one. It’s light, refreshing – everything you’d want in a pilsner,” she explained as she and her business partner James Fernandes cracked open a few bottles. “IPAs are getting so extreme, sometimes it tastes like you’re drinking your grandma’s perfume,” Maynard laughs. “Pivo is crisp and balanced, but also has that nice hop character on the back end. It’s the best of both worlds.” Pivo Pils made its debut in 2013. It is not the oldest pilsner out there (the style dates back to 1842, originating in the city of Plzen) but it is one that pays tribute to the history of this classic beer style. Firestone Walker Brewmaster Matt Brynildson says his beer is a “classic pilsner with a West Coast dry-hopping twist.” He adds, “There’s something in the simplicity of a pale lager that makes a good one such a thrill. Even with so few ingredients, Pivo is lush and complex, but still easy and approachable.” Pivo Pils reminds us why pilsners are part of the bedrock of brewing history. Having worked at Grace Tavern for the last 12 years, Maynard officially became a business partner last August, and she makes sure Pivo is always available at the bar. “We have it in bottles all the time and we rotate [the draught] in, on one of our 10 taps quite a bit. You need a solid pilsner to round out your selection.” At least one IPA will always be pouring at Grace Tavern, but give the rest of the tap list a look. You’re sure to see an assortment of styles – a handful of new releases and a few old standbys, that just might deserve some rediscovering. Tweet your thoughts to Doug Williams @Doug_DLMag
AVAILABLE in
September
New Orleans is located at latitude 30°north, longitude 90° west. This is the most geographically accurate location of the finest food, music and round-the-clock good times on earth. Abita created 30° 90° to celebrate the way we love to live in New Orleans. abita.com
WEYERBACHER & José Pistola’s LET THEIR EAGLES FLAG FLY WITH A NEW BEER:
I
Dallas Sucks
Bartender Adam Anderson (left) with co-owners Casey Parker & Joe Gunn of José Pistolas
t goes without saying that Philadelphia has a very, uh, enthusiastic sports fan base. Now that the future of our hallowed Eagles appears to be growing brighter (finally), Josh Lampe of Weyerbacher and co-owners of the center city bar José Pistola’s, Casey Parker and Joe Gunn, felt it was high time to brew a beer specifically for those rabid Philly football fans.
“The three of us are huge Eagles fans, so we decided that it’d be a great way to collaborate on a beer,” says Lampe. What resulted was an easy-drinking pale ale clocking in at less than 5% ABV, perfect for a day of tailgating and four quarters of football – without the resulting hangover Monday morning. “You can drink about six a quarter and still be okay to get outside to your Uber,” says Gunn. But, what to call this football friendly brew? For that, Josh, Joe and Casey looked no further than José Pistola’s unofficial slogan/ battle cry: Dallas Sucks. The rivalry between the Philadelphia Eagles and their divisional foe, the Dallas Cowboys, has always had a colorful and unapologetic history – one that José Pistola’s is more than happy to play a hand in. Walk into José’s on any given Sunday (football season, or not) and you’ll see the words “Dallas Sucks” scrawled just about everywhere: signs, t-shirts, even on the POS stations the servers use. “They’ve always had a Dallas Sucks theme going on,” laughs Lampe. “It felt like the perfect thing to name this beer.”
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“There are plenty of bars that love the Eagles, but only a couple have enough hate for the Cowboys to name a beer after that hatred,” says Parker. But, when word spread that Weyerbacher and José Pistola’s were teaming up to create a beer with a Cowboys put-down right on the label, the expected eye-rolls and annoyance from Dallas fans didn’t exactly materialize. “We’ve got a lot of intense sports fans around here, not just for the Eagles,” says Lampe. “Even the Dallas fans we’ve told about it are really excited that we’re making this beer.” While Dallas fans are more than welcome to grab a pint of Dallas Sucks, Parker says the spirit behind the beer is clear, “It’s the perfect combination of the sensibilities of the superior Philadelphia beer scene and absolutely nothing from Dallas.” Dallas Sucks will be an exclusive release at all the Pistola’s bars (José Pistola’s and its sister bars Sancho Pistola’s in Fishtown and the new South Philly location Pistola’s Del Sur) for the first two weeks of the football season and city wide after that. Later it will be available in 6-pack cans for those long Sundays when you prefer to watch football from your couch rather than a barstool. In a city like Philadelphia, where the frenzied passion for our teams spans throughout all sports, this beer seems primed to start a new trend. Will there be more beers brewed that are dedicated to each of Philly’s beloved sports teams? Though the possibilities seem endless, Lampe is just looking forward to this first incarnation. “We’re starting with this, but Philly is such a great sports town, it certainly is something we’re considering.”
Whether or not we see a Phillies or Sixers-themed beer from Weyerbacher in seasons to come, this year, Josh, Joe and Casey are faithfully defending our home turf with Dallas Sucks Pale Ale. Be ready Dallas fans, when you step inside José’s, or any other Philly bar this season, you’re in our house. “Every once in a while, someone from Dallas comes into José's and sees our Dallas Sucks signs and gets offended or sad,” says Gunn. Then, as a smirk appears on his face, he adds, “They deserve those feelings.”
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PHILADELPHIA Celebrates
Hispanic Heritage Month By Christopher Munden
The essence of the American experience is our willingness to explore, honor and adopt the traditions of our fellow citizens. As Philadelphia prepares to celebrate the dynamic sights, sounds and flavors of our region’s diverse Hispanic population, Chris Munden asked potential revelers to riff on the cultural significance of enjoying a good beer with friends and relatives.
Roughly one in eight Philadelphians identify as Hispanic, but the population is far from heterogeneous. While the majority of Hispanics in Philadelphia are of Puerto Rican heritage, the city has large populations of Mexican, Dominican, Central American and South American immigrants.
rom Munich to Missouri, Amsterdam to Rio de Janeiro, from South Philadelphia to Kensington, Penn’s Landing to the Parkway, some things unite us all: good beer and good people. For Hispanic Heritage Month, September 15th through October 15th, we have a look at key events and the beers that might accompany them.
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Alejandro Barreto, a Colombian who moved to the United States to be with his Puerto Rican-born wife, gives a brief run-down of stereotypical national beer tastes: “Puerto Ricans drink Medalla at the beach. Colombians barbeque and enjoy a mix of beer and soda called Refajo. Dominicans like Presidente and play dominoes. Mexicans enjoy Coronas, Tecates or Victorias watching fútbol [soccer].”
“For Spanish people, it’s all about the music,” says Yuan Valcarcel, a Puerto Rican Philadelphian married to a Mexican immigrant. “For Puerto Ricans, it’s salsa. It’s everywhere. Whenever there’re people, there’s music. Wherever there’s beer, there’s music.”
According to Carlos Acosta, an Ecuadorian-American who lives in Kensington, even in America, “Hispanic immigrants go for their hometown beers. So, Mexicans still like Dos Equis and Dominicans still like Presidente.”
Alicia Gonzalez Weise agrees. “People don’t get together to drink beer thinking you want to get drunk,” says the social worker who moved from the Dominican Republic to complete a master's degree and met her Mexican husband here. “We get together for food and music, and beer accompanies the celebration.” Philadelphia’s Hispanic Heritage celebrations kick off with the annual Feria del Barrio on September 17th. Centro de Oro, the historic heart of Hispanic Philadelphia (North Fifth Street between Huntingdon and Somerset streets) transforms for a festival of food and culture. On the same day, the Great Plaza at Penn’s Landing moves to the rhythms of the Brazilian Day Festival. Part of the PECO Multicultural Series showcasing world cultures, this festival of art and culture centers around the vibrant music and dance of Brazil. On September 24th, the party moves to the Ben Franklin 10
Parkway for the annual Puerto Rican Day Parade. Over 1,500 performers from local youth organizations, churches and musical groups dance and ride floats down the wide boulevard.
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If there’s any trend it’s that, “the preference is for lighter beers,” says Barrato. “Lighter beers fit the warm weather of their home countries.” “We want something to kill the thirst,” says Acosta. Gonzalez Weise agrees, “Dominicans drink mostly pilsner-style beers; it’s something about them being refreshing in our permanent summer.” “But,” she adds. “I like a nice framboise too.” Of course, there’s an increased focus on craft beer among Hispanics, as there is in Anglo communities. “Like on the mainland, Budweiser is the old school beer of Puerto Rico,” says Valcarcel. “But there’s also a fever for artisanal beer at beer gardens.” “We still like beer fresh, like life, but we want taste too.”
2017 HISPANIC HERITAGE MONTH EVENTS September 10th
Mexican Independence Day Festival Great Plaza at Penn’s Landing
September 17th
Feria del Barrio North Fifth Street between Huntingdon and Somerset
September 17th
Brazilian Day Festival Great Plaza at Penn’s Landing
September 24th
Puerto Rican Day Parade Ben Franklin Parkway
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OUT-OF-THIS-
ARE
UFO HEFEWEIZENS WORLD
3 . If Kenary could only drink one UFO beer for the rest of his life, “It would have to be UFO White Ale. It is so clean and refreshing and goes with so many beer drinking occasions.”
4.
The new UFO labels tell more about the great beer inside: The glass is the beacon on the package, which shows what the beer looks like. And the fonts and colors are fun, friendly, bright and fresh – just like the beer.
5.
THINGS 10 You Didn’t Know
About Massachusetts Bay Brewing Company’s Co-founder Dan Kenary and His UFO Lineup.
Y
ou may not know the name Massachusetts Bay Brewing Company, but this Boston-based craft brewery makes the award-winning Harpoon and UFO portfolios of beer. Inspired by hefeweizens he drank on a trip to the Pacific Northwest nearly two decades ago, Dan Kenary’s refreshing, sometimes-fruit-infused-and-always-easydrinking UFO beers (short for UnFiltered Offerings) are the ultimate thirst quenchers. Full of interesting flavors and fun, UFO’s new look matches what the beers have always been. Kenary says, “Beer should be flavorful, uncomplicated and fun. That’s what UFO is all about. And the new look does a great job of communicating that message.” Draught Lines sat down with Kenary to find out more about these out-of-this-world hefeweizens…
1.
“We chose the name UFO because the idea of a cloudy beer served with lemon was an ‘alien’ concept to New Englanders back in the late ’90s.”
2 . There’s great history, tradition and craft behind UFO beers.
Born from a revered brewing tradition, flavorful, adventurous twists are added to each one. “We’ve been doing a lot of experimenting and tinkering with flavors and recipes. I think our brewers have nailed the flavors and made beers that are beautifully crafted, but really drinkable. They’re fun to brew and even more fun to drink.”
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The passport stamp on the labels (“FLAVOR ADVENTURES. DEPARTING DAILY.”) speaks to the refreshing, flavorful beers that leave the brewery every day and land in the glasses of UFO fans.
6.
There’s a nod to employee ownership on the package. “We want customers to know that everyone at the brewery is invested in the quality of the beer we’re making.”
7.
UFO Hefeweizen and UFO Raspberry made the list of Paste Magazine’s Blind Tasted and Ranked 59 Best Wheat Beers (April 2017).
8.
Harpoon and UFO are very different beers with very different consumers. “UFO drinkers prefer fruitier, easy-to-drink beers, while those who drink Harpoon like more complex combinations of hops and malt.”
9.
UFO’s new fall release, CranBeery is a refreshing hefeweizen infused with fresh cranberries, right from the bogs of Massachusetts. It’s a little sweet, a little tart and a lot delicious. Try it with an open-faced turkey sandwich or pecan pie – you won’t regret it.
1 0 . UFO now has its own website (ufobeer.com) and social media presence on Instagram and Twitter. Follow @ufobeers!
DRINKTHESE
NOW Flavors of Fall
Dogfish Head Punkin Ale 7% ABV A full-bodied brown ale with smooth hints of pumpkin, brown sugar and spice. Blue Moon Harvest Pumpkin Wheat 5.7% ABV Crafted with real pumpkin and harvest spices including cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and allspice. Spring House Braaaiins! Pumpkin Ale for Zombies 7.8% ABV Brewed with generous amounts of real pumpkin. Subtle, fresh pumpkin flavor is enhanced by traditional autumn spices and sweet dough. Ballast Point Pumpkin Down 5.8% ABV Caramel and toffee maltiness is the perfect backdrop for a boatload of roasted pumpkin, with a subtle amount of spice. Heavy Seas The Great'er Pumpkin 10% ABV A full malt body, dominated by British crystal malt, brown sugar and pumpkin washes over your tongue, while bourbon barrel aging rounds out the flavors with notes of oak, vanilla and bourbon. Shipyard Pumpkinhead 4.7% ABV A crisp and refreshing wheat ale with delightful aromatics and a subtle spiced flavor. Saranac Pumpkin Ale 5.3% ABV Along with 3,000 pounds of real pumpkin, cinnamon, allspice, clove and ginger spice up this fall beauty. Evil Genius Trick or Treat 7.8% ABV A pumpkin porter brewed with chocolate and spices, this is a spicy, rich and unique, full-bodied dark ale. Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale 8% ABV Brewed with lots of pumpkin along with cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of cardamom and clove, for a spicy, full-bodied flavor.
HOP ART 'R' is for Rodenbach
I
f you’re Belgian, or a great-big beer fan, capitol ‘R’ stands for one thing only: Rodenbach.
The Rodenbach Brewery, located in quaint, historic Roeselare, Belgium, was founded back in the early 1800s by a family of interesting characters. A few of them fought with Napoleon and one actually wrote the Belgian National Anthem. But, the Rodenbach family’s real claim to fame comes from Pedro Rodenbach’s perfection of Flemish red brown ale. The beer style has been around since the Middle Ages, but Rodenbach figured he could make the ale taste better by using blending techniques borrowed from wine makers. It’s no surprise then, that Rodenbach Grand Cru is something like a Cabernet Sauvignon that is bright and tart with hints of raspberries and oak. Rodenbach created a beer by which all the other sour ales would be judged… forever.
T U R N TA B L E PI L S G E T I T Y E A R-R O U N D
OKTOBERFEST N OW
AVA I L A B L E
GRE ATL AKE SBREWING .COM P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY © G R E AT L A KE S ® B R E W I N G C O.
So when the family decided it was time to refresh the labels on their bottles and cans, the artists aimed for a clean, fresh look, while also paying respect to Rodenbach’s 200-year-old heritage. Speaking on behalf of the brewery, Craig Alperowitz gives the details. “We just couldn’t lose that iconic Rodenbach ‘R’. It’s known and recognized around the world. At the same time, it has a new meaning, standing also for ‘Red, Ripened and Refreshing.’” Those three ‘Rs’ describe their newest beer, Rodenbach Fruitage. It’s the only fruit-infused, low ABV beer that’s 100% authentically Rodenbach. It’s a blend of 25% aged Rodenbach ale, matured for two years in their oak standing foeders (wooden barrels used for fermentation) and 75% young Rodenbach ale, with cherries and elderberries added for some extra pop. This instant classic is light and refreshing and comes in an easily crushable 8.5 oz. can – their first canned beer ever!
TB
the bookshelf
COMPLETE IPA
the IPA into a platform for endless experimentation. The IPA is not an American phenomenon; it's a global phenomenon.”
THE GUIDE TO YOUR FAVORITE CRAFT BEER
In his book, Bernstein provides a smooth, historical introduction to the IPA followed by a deeper look into five main sub-styles: English, American, Double & Triple, Session and Emerging Styles. Each chapter breaks down these sub-styles, offering style characteristics, commercial examples, tasting notes, fun facts and brewers who played a part in their innovation.
by Joshua M. Bernstein In today’s world of beer, even the most novice drinkers know that there is one style that dominates the scene – the IPA. Author Joshua M. Bernstein has witnessed, and drunk his way through, the evolution of the IPA in the craft beer movement, which inspired his newest book Complete IPA: The Guide to Your Favorite Craft Beer.
B
ernstein explains, “As I dug into the idea, I realized that the IPA is as omnipresent as it is confusing. Those three simple letters can be used to describe a double IPA with bitterness that drills into you like a jackhammer, or a low-alcohol session IPA that's light, citrusy and soft on the palate. Buoyed by the creation of a raft of new hop varieties, brewers around the world have turned
Bernstein also offers readers his expertise as a beer tour guide of sorts, mapping out “IPA Itineraries” for some of the most beer-centric towns in America. A list of beer festivals, a glossary and a comprehensive beer checklist make up the last few pages of this IPA style bible. Don’t go writing this off as just another beer book; Bernstein wants you to know, “It’s about beer, of course, but it’s also about ingenious brewers transforming their raw materials into something distinct, memorable and paradigm-shifting.” “A generation ago, brewing IPAs made brewers stand out. Now brewers make IPAs to fit in.” - Joshua M. Bernstein
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gets draughted by Lew Bryson
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SAM CALAGIONE
of Dogfish Head Gets Draughted By Lew Bryson
Dogfish Head Brewery opened back in 1995 as Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats, a rough-edged little brewpub in Rehoboth Beach – Delaware’s first. Sam Calagione was brewing beer in the kitchen, in ten-gallon batches, but he was dreaming already. Maybe it was the kitchen, maybe it was the farming roots in the surrounding area of lower Delaware; whatever it was, Sam imagined beers that drew on culinary inspiration as much as brewing. Beers like Punkin Ale, Raison d’ Etre, Indian Brown Ale and Aprihop quickly made a name for the young brewer, and just as quickly led to an off-site production brewery. Dogfish Head soon became a familiar brand in craft beer circles, and Sam Calagione became one of the most well-known faces in the industry.
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T
wenty-two years in, Sam (and the brewery team, as he’ll tell you) has won a James Beard award, and just put $4 million into renovating that original brewpub. We contacted him while he was on vacation with his family in Maine (trivia bonus: Maine is where you’ll find the actual Dogfish Head, a point on an island in the Sheepscot River estuary) and asked him some questions that were on our minds. Draught Lines (D.L.) Congratulations on the James Beard award! Is it for making great beer, or making very different beer, or talking about and representing great beer? Sam Calagione (S.C.) Thanks! It was a proud moment for our whole team. It’s a general award for outstanding beer, wine or spirits expert. It’s not super specific. But I got some nice comments from previous winners, like Mario Batali and Marc Vetri. We had a nice talk about our long-time overlap with the culinary world. Not just culinary ingredients in our beers, like raisins and pumpkin, but culinary techniques; the continuous hopping in 60 Minute IPA is a soup-making technique. In the mid-’90s we were sometimes vilified for putting raisins and maple syrup in beer, but this has been validation for our somewhat quixotic mission for the past 23 years. D.L. You and Dogfish Head have been ground-breaking and influential for years. Why is that? What about your approach to brewing and beer gives the brewery such an outsized influence in the industry? S.C. Beer lovers and brewers can tell that we’re very passionate about innovative, unique beers. They can sense that. Our whole business is about being a creative brewery first, and a commercial brewery second. That drives us more than concentrating on just a few beers’ growth for growth’s sake. I think that comes from my wife Mariah and me always showing our co-workers that it’s passion first and profit second, and then hiring people who get that. You do need profits to reinvest and create that innovation. We love to innovate with products, and we really love to share that with people. Mariah is the digital voice, getting the word and idea out. I’m more the analog, actually making the stuff. D. L. Your SeaQuench Ale (a tart, slightly sour, lime-infused, low alcohol beer with a dash of sea salt) has gotten some really good press from USA Today and Men’s Health magazine. Both articles say it tastes great, and I concur, but there’s more to it. S.C. Yeah, they picked up on the fact that this beer really hydrates you the way sports drinks do. We worked on SeaQuench for two years. It was kind of like a science experiment and we have proof that the sea salt not only enhances the taste, it also infuses minerals – calcium, chloride, magnesium, potassium and sodium – known to help sate thirst and replace lost electrolytes. D. L. So was it just a science experiment?
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S.C. Sometimes I geek out on the science of making beer, but I brewed SeaQuench because I wanted a beer that would be the ultimate partner for sipping, while hanging out at the beach with friends all afternoon long, and ending that day using the beer as an accompaniment for an epic seafood feast. D.L. Let’s talk about 60/90/120 Minute, Indian Brown and Raison d’Etre. They’re still around, but others are not. How do you decide to keep or retire a beer? S.C. We love all our beers equally; they’re all our children. We’d never kill our children... but we may send them away to military school for a while! Our 61 Minute, with Syrah grape, was away for a while, but it will be back in a mixed pack this winter – IPAs for the Holidays: 60, 61 and 90 Minute and Indian Brown Ale. It’s our first national mixed pack. The brands we innovated almost two decades ago, 60 and 90 Minute, are still great beers today. Our other innovations, Flesh & Blood and SeaQuench, are the fastest growing brands in our history. They’ve got unique positions and pedigrees. We did the first fruited IPA, Aprihop, in 1996; we did the first nationally distributed fruited sour, Festina Peche, over a decade ago. So they have the lineage. D.L. Even with pumpkin beers falling off for the first time, your Punkin Ale stays popular. What makes this beer special? S.C. The Punkin Chunkin competition still goes on, but I haven’t been in years. That’s the first event Dogfish Head ever won an award in. Yeah, a 23-year-old kid homebrews a beer and kicks the ass of the old ladies who had pies in the cooking competition! We’ve been brewing Punkin Ale since 1995; the only pumpkin beer older is Buffalo Bill’s. It’s our largest volume seasonal beer. We saw too many pumpkin beers on the market in 2016, and some brewers are deciding not to brew one this year. But we use real pumpkin, brown sugar and real spices; it stands out and resonates with people. We’re not planning on large growth this year, and we’re hearing that retailers will be carrying less pumpkin beers, but they will be carrying Punkin, so that’s exciting. We believe in it. It’s shipping in late August. D.L. Let’s talk about the Dogfish Dash runners’ road race to raise money for The Nature Conservancy. S.C. Mariah really deserves the credit, and Mark Carter, they run the benevolence arm of the brewery. Mariah is on the Delaware chapter of the Nature Conservancy. We’ve raised over half a million dollars for our state chapter. Mark runs the event; he always has, and does a great job. There will be cans of SeaQuench greeting people at the finish line, sometime around 9 AM! D.L. You have a new beer series called Alternate Takes; could you tell us more about that? S.C. Just a fun, draught-only, one-off program, also a proving ground for new ideas. Mark Safarik, our Brewmaster, leads that program with the brewers. They just did AT #5, a nice, soft sour with raspberries and blueberries. We all liked that so much we’re thinking about getting a new, small bottling line to bottle our wild-fermented beers. I think folks will see more of that from us in 2018. D.L. “Alternate Takes” is just one of the music references in your beers, and music has always been a big part of the brand’s identity. Can you tell us more about how that works and why it’s so?
S.C. When we opened, we opened in a restaurant to show how culinary ingredients can be woven into beer, from the same kitchen. But we also had a little stage to celebrate musicians who create original music. Even though we’re at the beach, where most of the bands are cover bands, we wanted original music. We spent more money on our new stage than we did on our original brewing system! D.L. Some brewers outgrow their roots; you’ve recently put a lot of time and money into renovating your original brewpub. Why? S.C. We spent about $4 million to renovate it, and added the place next to us. However, it seats no more people than the original brewpub. If this were a public company, I’d probably be fired for that. But the old pub was cramped, out of date, bad sightlines to the stage, old equipment. So we wanted a better experience for the customers coming in the front door, and our colleagues coming in the back door. The old kitchen was cramped, and 110 degrees all day in the summer. It’s a much better space now.
Sam Calagione
We’ve also recently added some employees who are a shout-out to Philly. Our old buddy Bryan Selders is back at Dogfish Head, at our Rehoboth campus, brewing there. We also have Jennie Hatton-Baver (who helped steer Philly Beer Week for years) full-time at Dogfish Head. We always thought of ourselves as a Philly-area brewery, but now we’re proving it on payroll as well. D.L. Where are things headed in the future? How do you stay relevant and interesting when craft beer fans seem more interested in the small, the new and the intensely local? S.C. I think local is always going to be a component of craft, but I see on the national stage, a focus on quality, consistency and a well-differentiated brand, regardless of scale. Bars commit taps to local brewers, but we’re seeing a return to retailers, distributors and consumers focusing more on brands that are creative, but deliver on quality and consistency. We are maniacally focused on quality, consistency and being well-differentiated. That’s what’s worked for us.
DJ Spinning Records at the New Brewpub
Dogfish Dash
Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats in Rehobeth Beach, DE
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PAYING HOMAGE TO BELGIUM’S GREAT
BREWING TRADITIONS,
ALLAGASH FOUNDER
& AWARD-WINNING BREWER ROB TOD
WON’T CALL HIS
BELGIAN-INSPIRED
COOLSHIP
BEERS Award-winning Brewer, Rob Tod
T
he first word that pops into your head when someone says Allagash probably isn’t coolship, but maybe it should be.
“There’s not one Allagash beer that tastes like any specific Belgian. Our philosophy is never to copy. Anything we make is our take on beers that fit into the traditions pioneered by Belgian brewers,” says Rob Tod, who is best known for his brewery’s flagship beer Allagash White. “I have too much respect for those guys [Belgian brewers] to call our Coolship Resurgam or Coolship Red a Lambic. Lambics come from Belgium. My beers are made in Maine with native, wild yeast so I can’t in all good conscience call them Lambics.” In 2007, Tod’s Allagash Brewery installed a coolship – a large, shallow pan – and began making American Lambic-style beers collectively referred to as the Coolship Series. Available only at his brewery in Portland, Maine, these very limited release beers are made by a process called spontaneous fermentation whereby wild strains of yeast floating through the air find their way into the pre-beer liquid starter – called wort. The wort only becomes beer after the yeast makes it all
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LAMBICS
bubbly. It takes three years to make a coolship beer because it’s aged in French oak barrels that once may have contained bourbon or red wine. The final product is a blend of beers that have aged for different lengths of time in the various barrels. The entire process is Allagash’s homage to a method the Belgians have honed for hundreds of years. The beers are a taste of Maine because the ingredients, the yeast and the equipment are unique to Tod’s corner of the globe. “The first time I drank a Saison Dupont, a Celis White or something brewed by Orval, I was blown away by how different they were,” Tod explained as he poured himself a glass of Coolship Resurgam, a blend of three, two and one-year-old beers. It’s his brewery’s interpretation of a Belgian Lambic. “It is hard not to be influenced by what came before, but I have too much respect for guys like Frank Boon to call Allagash’s coolship beers, Lambics.” Boon – whose Brouwerij Boon produces the delicious raspberry Lambic Framboise Boon, ranks as one of the world’s most noted Lambic brewers and blenders. Tod, ever the innovator, could never be happy just trying to reproduce someone else’s beer, no matter how tasty. That is why he’s quick to point out that even Allagash White, his compa-
ny’s flagship beer (and probably the first thing that you think of when you hear the word Allagash), is his brewery’s “take” on a traditional Belgian wheat beer, and NOT a Belgian beer. Since 1994, one of America’s best-selling wheat beers, Allagash White has been loved by beer aficionados for its balance and complexity. It’s also the perfect brew for people who think they don't like beer. Flavored with subtle hints of coriander, Curacao orange peel and a secret spice, it’s easy-drinking and sessionable (ABV 5.1%), but still dazzling to the taste buds. When it first made its debut, it was a bit of a novelty. Belgian beers were virtually unknown in the U.S. back then. For Tod, that was very appealing, but his interest in Belgian beers went beyond their obscurity. The seemingly endless flavor possibilities the Belgians were able to coax out of their ingredients had caught his imagination. It took Tod about a year to build his brewery – done on a shoestring budget with equipment repurposed from a dairy operation. And after having gone to all that trouble, he wasn’t going to make the same beers that most American brewers were already churning out. "Allagash Brewery,” Tod said, “would strictly brew in the Belgian tradition. That’s our philosophy and we’ve stuck to it.” Some people call the Coolship Series sour beers, but Tod points out that they should be appreciated for their balance and not just because they are sour. Coolship Red is a perfect example. It's aged with fresh, ripe raspberries, which give the beer its balance of sweet and tart notes. And the color is a pretty shade of magenta, so it’s as beautiful to behold in a glass as it is delicious to drink. Setting the record straight one more time, Tod adds, “My buddies and I spend time with brewmasters from places like Orval and Cantillon. I go back to Cantillon almost every year. It’s run by Jean Van Roy, who is an amazing brewer. Every time I go there, I pick up some nuggets of inspiration that push me to try different things. I get energized to keep pushing myself as a brewer. I know the other guys on the trip, [Tomme Arthur of The Lost Abbey and Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River], feel the same. Almost every American brewer owes something to the Belgians, but we don’t imitate what they do. You could say that we choose to flatter them sincerely with our inspiration, not imitation!”
Allagash Brewery in Portland, Maine
Can’t get to the brewery? Try these Allagash brews in your neck of the woods. Allagash Hoppy Table Beer
While Hoppy Table Beer was inspired by the Belgian tradition of low-ABV, easily drinkable beers, it still occupies a hop-forward spot all its own. Brewed with Allagash’s 2-row malt blend, Maris Otter malt and oats, the beer is then spiced with a subtle addition of coriander and fermented with the brewery’s house yeast for classic Belgian citrus aromas. Hoppy Table Beer is hopped with Chinook, Cascade, Comet and Azacca hops, then dry hopped with more Comet and Azacca.
Allagash Brett IPA
Aromas of citrus, pineapple and passion fruit meld into tropical flavors that pair nicely with the beer’s lightly hopped body. Maris Otter, Munich malts and raw wheat balance the floral barrage of Bravo, Cascade, Amarillo, Centennial, Citra and Galaxy hops. By finishing with a mix of pleasant bitterness and tropical fruit, Brett IPA ushers brewing history into the present.
Allagash Interlude 2017
Two yeast strains were used to create this unique Belgian-style ale. The first, a saison yeast, establishes the flavor foundations of a classic Belgian-style ale. The second, Allagash’s house strain of Brettanomyces yeast, contributes myriad flavors including pear, apricot, graham cracker and bread crust. A portion of Interlude is aged in red wine barrels, which imparts a distinctive vinous, plum character and a dry, almost tannic, finish.
Available only at the brewery for a very reasonable $15 a bottle considering the time and attention that goes into each beer. Each limited release is an example of brewing as an art form. “Less than 1% of the beer we make at Allagash is a coolship, but it’s a big part of our culture.” – Rob Tod, Allagash Brewery
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Beer Labels Brought to
Life
As you’re enjoying your fill of festive pumpkin beers and haunted houses come October, the last thing you want to fret about is your Halloween costume. Ditch the store-bought zombie mask or sexy witch outfit and dress to impress with a unique, beer label-themed costume.
Great Lakes Eliot Ness
This notorious prohibition agent was made famous by the wildly popular gangster film The Untouchables. Ness has a personal connection to Great Lakes Brewery, having once employed Margaret Conway – mother of GLBC co-owners Patrick and Daniel – as his stenographer. And the legendary bullet holes in the bar, rumored to have come from Ness himself, can still be seen at the Great Lakes brewpub today. The brewery admits, “It’s a bit of a paradox to name our amber lager for history’s most famous prohibition-era g-man. But it’s a smooth, malty (and dare we say, arresting?) paradox."
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Lagunitas Aunt Sally
This unique, sweet, tart, dry-hopped ale, brewed in a bizarre, old world tradition is a little sweet and a little sassy, just like the tasty cherry pie your favorite aunt makes. Aunt Sally’s lusty look can be pulled together quickly with a few simple items. Bonus points for bringing pie. “Taking her in completely, she seized your senses and you were consumed by the luminous passion, her residual sweetness, and the tart earthiness of her grin. This brew is dedicated to the real Aunt Sally. You know who you are. And you know why." - Lagunitas
Dogfish Head Pennsylvania Tuxedo
If you think the start of deer hunting season is a national holiday, this costume is for you. “Pennsylvania Tuxedo is local-yocal terminology for the traditional, iconic, red and black plaid hunting uniform that outdoor clothing company Woolrich made its reputation on for hunters on the East Coast and beyond,” explains Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione. The brewery’s sessionable pale ale of the same name pays homage to the flannel-suited hunters and gatherers who dwell deep in the backcountry of north-central PA. Made in collaboration with Woolrich, Dogfish Head Pennsylvania Tuxedo is brewed with fresh spruce tips from local forests.
Dock Street Bohemian Pilsner In the mid-'80s, Dock Street Brewery created the female counterpart to the iconic sailor who adorned their labels. She’s classy, confident, mysterious and beautiful, and she also represented the 50% female ownership of Dock Street at the time. Complete this girl-powered look with a few simple pieces and a glass full of the crisp, bright golden lager she represents.
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SCORING BREWS, SCORING GOALS Soccer is THE Sport at These Philadelphia Bars
By Christopher Munden
It’s opening weekend of a new season of the English Premier League and the bar is packed with soccer fans staring at large TV screens. They wear the starkly-colored jerseys of their favorite teams. A stadium chant breaks out in one corner. The bartender pours another round of beers.
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T
his isn’t a pub in London or Manchester. This is a scene played out each week at bars across the Philadelphia area. Over the last 25 years, soccer has gained a foothold in American sports culture; it’s now the fourth most-watched sport in the country, ahead of ice hockey, tennis and golf. But, while most bars in the city might have a soccer game on among several sports-filled screens, some cater especially to the growing audiences of an increasingly mainstream sport, combining the best social aspects of fandom and beer.
Fadó Irish Pub at 1500 Locust St.
Fado Irish Pub at 15th and Locust was a pioneer hub for Philadelphia soccer fans. They love the sport so much here that they’ll close down the busy Center City block for major World Cup games. Every weekend you’ll find the large bar buzzing with fans switching their attention between games on the multiple screens or engrossed in the action of their favorite team. Although Fado organizes bus trips to see the local Philadelphia Union, most people who gather in Philadelphia bars aren’t watching homegrown Major League Soccer games. Instead, their attention is on foreign leagues, especially the English Premier League, the Europe-wide Champions League and Mexico’s Liga MX. The international nature of the sport makes for diverse clientele at the bar. “We get a lot of supporters of Manchester United,” says Fado bartender Chris Miller, referencing a popular English team. “But we get fans of every team from every country. We’re wall to wall for El Clasico [games between Spanish rivals Barcelona and Real Madrid], and last year we had a group of Albanian police here. They were training in this area and came with flags and banners to watch all of their country’s games. It was an amazing atmosphere.” Because of the time difference, European games can begin as early as 7am on a weekend morning, so it requires a particularly committed staff to run a Philadelphia soccer bar. But owner/barkeep Aidan Travers of relative newcomer The Black Taxi, in the Fairmount section of Philadelphia, will be up early to cater to his soccer-loving patrons, especially those of English team Manchester City.
Brauhaus Schmitz, UEFA Euro 2016
Fadó Irish Pub soccer "boots"
Brauhaus Shmitz, World Cup 2014
Manchester United fans at Fadó
“Some drink coffee,” Travers says of the early risers. “But beer is popular here at any time of the day.” Travers pours from a rotating list of craft and imported draughts and serves a menu of British classics (bangers and mash, fish and chips, curry chips) and pub favorites. Close to Love Park, Tir Na Nog is another of those treasured places that will open up for the early games. Thankfully, like Black Taxi, they welcome morning patrons with a plate-filling traditional Irish breakfast and boast a full slate of imported and domestic beers on tap and in bottles, including Irish brew Smithwick’s.
Aidan Travers, bartender, The Black Taxi
As one of the best soccer bars in the city, Tir Na Nog attracts fans of many soccer and rugby teams. It’s the The Black Taxi at 747 North 25th St.
Tir Na Nóg at 1600 Arch St.
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home base of the supporters club with the most to celebrate this year: that of London’s Chelsea FC, winners of the 2016/17 English Premier League. Chelsea fans can also be found at The 700 in Northern Liberties, and many bars focus their attention on fans of a single English Premier League team. Across the street from Fado, Misconduct Tavern draws supporters of London team Arsenal. Liverpool faithful head to nearby Jose Pistola’s, Victoria Freehouse in Old City or to Iron Abbey in Horsham. Fans of the Reds’ city rival Everton gather at O’Neals Pub near South Street. Followers of rising club Tottenham Hotspur meet at Center City saloon Tavern on Broad. The rabid support of Scottish outfit Rangers drink and cheer at Cavanaugh’s on Headhouse Square, which also hosts fans of West Ham and other English soccer and rugby teams. Black Sheep, a cozy pub near Rittenhouse Square, serves as the Philly headquarters of the most-followed, best-loved (and perhaps most-hated) English team, Manchester United. Because they’re so numerous, “Man U” fans can be found in bars around the city, but they’re drawn to Black Sheep for the weekend brunch and the selection of bottled crafts. And the best fans of them all (in the unbiased opinion of this Newcastle-born author), the “Toon Army” supporters of Newcastle United, head to The Bards near Rittenhouse Square. British clubs aren’t the first love of every American soccer fan. The most-watched league in the U.S. remains Mexico’s Liga MX. You can see Mexican expats following their teams at taquerias and bars all around the city, including South Philly’s Blue Corn, Plaza Garibaldi or Los Taquitos de Puebla. Meanwhile, South Street biergarten Brauhaus Schmitz focuses on the league with the most live spectators in the world, Germany’s fast-action Bundesliga. With its selection of German beers and wursts, this old country restaurant/bar buzzes with excitement during European soccer matches and has a lively crowd of Philadelphia Union supporters. You may find co-owner Doug Hager, a dual German-American citizen, among the enthusiastic crowd. The excitement for soccer in Philadelphia will build to a crescendo next summer, when national teams from around the world head to Russia for the World Cup. Held every four years, the tournament is the mostwatched sporting event in the world. More than ever, a good number of those viewers will be huddled in Philadelphia bars, enjoying a brew and the company of their fellow soccer fans.
PHILLY’S BEST SOCCER BARS Fado Irish Pub
1500 Locust St. Fans of many clubs gather to watch on the multiple screens.
Tir Na Nog Irish Bar & Grill
1600 Arch St. Come for open spaces and separated supporters’ sections.
Black Sheep Pub & Restaurant
247 S. 17th St. Good food, varied beer list, intimate viewing space.
The Black Taxi
747 N. 25th St. Cozy neighborhood bar with a solid menu and many British beers.
Brauhaus Schmitz
718 South St. German beer, German food, world soccer.
SOCCER BARS IN THE BURBS Green Parrot 240 N. Sycamore St., Newtown Iron Abbey 680 Easton Rd., Horsham Kildares Irish Pub 18 W. Gay St., West Chester Union Jack’s Olde Glory Pub 2750 Limekiln Pk., Glenside King’s Corner 603 Summit Ave., Jenkintown
German soccer fans on South Street at World Cup Photo courtesy of the Philadelphia Business Journal
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2SP’s Brewery Cat in her, “I want to be alone” pose.
Indeed, a quick Instagram search reveals that cats around the world call breweries their home, continuing a long history of human-feline interdependence. Cats, as we know them today, were first domesticated thousands of years ago, when their wild ancestors began feeding on pests in grain stores, providing a welcome service to early farmers. Likewise, beer production began soon after people adopted agriculture (some anthropologists theorize that beer was the reason we started farming in the first place), so it’s safe to say, beer and cats go back a long time. With modern breweries reluctant to use chemicals to treat infestations, cats still serve a useful purpose. “She keeps the place rodent and bug-free better than any exterminator,” Ruthig says about 2SP’s resident feline. “Plus she’s kinda cute.” Brewery Cat’s attractive tabby markings and adorable cross-eyed stare attracts many admirers, although the feelings aren’t always mutual. “Guests want to pet her, but she really isn’t into it, so we warn them to let her be,” says Ruthig. “She only wants so much attention before she is over it and gets mean.” “She’s one of the sassiest cats I’ve ever met,” confirms 2SP sales rep and cat-lover Erin Dintinger. “But she has all the boys at the brewery wrapped around her little paws.” Follow Brewery Cat’s adventures on Instagram @brewerycat2sp or visit her at 2SP’s Tasting Room, 120 Concord Road in Aston, PA.
W
hen the folks at 2SP Brewing Company were building their headquarters in Aston, PA, they got more than just a solid home for their craft brewery. “We had a few stray cats just wandering around,” says Joe Ruthig, 2SP’s distribution manager. “Then they were all gone and only one remained. And she adopted us, so she lives here now.” As head mouse catcher, 2SP’s Brewery Cat, or “B” to her friends, has fast become 2SP’s most popular representative. Over 1,200 Instagram followers tune in to see her exploring the premises, inspecting the equipment or “sleeping in amazingly weird positions.”
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Pre-Game Your Buzzworthy Beer Alert
Dogfish Head’s Analog-A-Go-Go Returns
T
he off-centered brewery bash AnalogA-Go-Go is headed back to the Dogfish campus this fall, from November 3rd to the 5th. Dogfish will be releasing three, one-ofa-kind cask beers, offered exclusively at the festival: Orange Creamsicle IPA, Night in the Woods and Whiskey Barrel-Aged Palo Santo. With music acts like The Legendary Shack Shakers and DJs spinning vinyl all weekend long, it’s no wonder beer nerds and music lovers alike are counting down the days until this celebration begins!
Ballast Point to Open Virginia Brewery
C
ome this fall, the beer flowing out of local Sculpin taps is going to be a whole lot fresher! Ballast Point is set to open their state-of-the-art, 259,000 square foot brewery in Botetourt County, Virginia. Word on the street is the beer being shipped to Philly will be just two days old! Now that’s fresh! And early next year, Ballast Point will open a tasting room and R&D facility in Chicago.
Dock Street Goes Hazy
F
or anyone keeping score, Dock Street Brewery has been on fire lately. They opened a new tasting room, started canning their beers and brewed delicious collaborations with the likes of Chill Moody. This fall, Dock Street will continue that streak with their newest seasonal: Fall Haze. This 5.5% pale ale stays true to the hoppy, hazy style currently in vogue, but with a taste that is distinctly Dock Street.
IT’S NOT PUMPKIN BEER, IF IT’S NOT
The Original Pumpkin Beer
Cape May Brewing Co. Helps Fight MS
O
n September 23rd and 24th, Bike MS will host a charity bike ride from the back roads of South Jersey to the blueberry fields of Hammonton. With the 180-mile ride ending right in their back yard, Cape May Brewing Co. created City to Shore (a hop bomb with waves of citrus notes) in honor of this special event. “After finishing the bike ride you’re pretty beat up,” says Ryan Krill of Cape May, “so reaching for this DIPA just feels right.”
Handcrafted on the waterfront in Portland, Maine SHIPYARD.COM
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A San Diego classic. Created from a blend of three homebrewers’ recipes, Sculpin IPA was an instant hit for its fruity, tropical and dry profile from Simcoe and Amarillo hops. Today, this gold-medal winning IPA satisfies both experienced and new drinkers alike with its approachable style. With one taste, you’ll see why Sculpin IPA continues to be one of San Diego’s most popular beers.