Draught Lines Fall 2016 by Draught Lines

WHISKEY

IS HOT BUT

draught lines fall 2016

BEER IS COOL

Beers to FALL FOR

MARK HELLENDRUNG NARRAGANSETT BEER

draught lines fall 2016 ON THE COVER: Mark Hellendrung of Narragansett

24 15

contents 7 REMINISCING ABOUT "THE ONE" BY DANYA HENNINGER 15 THE BOOKSHELF BEER PAIRING: THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FROM THE PAIRING PROS BY JULIA HERZ & GWEN CONLEY

16 MARK HELLENDRUNG OF NARRAGANSETT BEER GETS DRAUGHTED 24 A MEGA EXPERIENCE UNIBROUE'S JERRY VIETZ RIFFS ON HIS COLLABORATION WITH A ROCK STAR

Editor in Chief Maryanne Origlio

Contributing Writer Jessica Lawrence

Art Director/Photographer Loren Leggerie

Guest Writer Lew Bryson

Senior Editor Maureen McCoy

Contributing Writer Liz Starry

Art Director/Photographer Michael Kuchar

Guest Writer Danya Henninger

Mark Your Calendars

A Few Words From The Editors...

Newtown Beerfest | Newtown Borough, PA September 17, 2016 – The Stocking Works

Dear Beer Aficionados,

Kennett Brewfest | Kennett Square, PA October 1, 2016 – Historic Kennett Square

“When the Eagles hike the ball, people start to forget about summer beers,” says a colleague of ours at Draught Lines. While that may certainly be true for many sports fans, some of us need a reminder that summer isn’t endless – even if the temperature remains in the 90s.

King of Prussia Beerfest Royale | King of Prussia, PA October 6-8, 2016 – King of Prussia Mall Conshohocken Beer Festival | Conshohocken, PA October 15, 2016 – A.A. Garthwaite Stadium

In this edition of DL, we preview the changes that will inevitably come. The days will get shorter, a bit colder and you’ll invite the familiar flavors of fall back as a welcome change.

Pottstown Brew Fest | Pottstown, PA October 22, 2016 – Manatawny Park For more information about these events, and others visit our website: www.origlio.com

For an electronic version of this publication, visit: www.origlio.com Like us on Facebook facebook.com/draughtlines Follow us on Twitter @draughtlinesmag Follow us on Instagram @draughtlinesmag Check us out on YouTube youtube.com/draughtlines

Speaking of welcome changes, our dear friend and acclaimed beer writer, Lew Bryson, is back from his stint as the managing editor of the magazine Whisky Advocate. Yes, he is very knowledgeable about beer and whiskey. We don’t know which beverage he prefers – and he’ll probably never tell, but let’s just say that he appreciates the best that both have to offer. Which is why we asked him to opine about craft beers that offer the flavors of spirits vs. brown liquids that might not be as good as the price they command. A few brewers weigh in on the topic as well. Then, if you are into music, check out the story about the brewing collaboration between Megadeth’s Dave Mustaine and Master Brewer Jerry Vietz. The beer they created, A Tout Le Monde, is surprisingly light considering this musician’s heavy metal inclinations. But that just goes to show you what can happen when two artists share a vision. Finally, we highlight some wonderful fall beers, ask some of our favorite brewers to reminisce about the beers that helped define their careers, and go in-depth with the man who rescued Narragansett Beer, Mark Hellendrung. All to help ease you into an autumnal state of mind.

Cheers,

draught lines

3000 Meeting House Road, Philadelphia, PA 19154

The Draught Lines Editorial Staff

AVE EVIEWS

Pumpkin Ale Waffles

One bite of these beer-infused waffles will take you straight to the pumpkin patch. Ingredients

2 1/2 cups flour 1/2 cup brown sugar 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. ginger 1/2 tsp. nutmeg

Preparation

1 tsp. cinnamon 4 eggs, divided 1/2 cup milk 2/3 cup pumpkin puree 1 stick melted butter 1 cup pumpkin ale

Preheat waffle iron. Get out three bowls. In the largest bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir until well combined. Divide the eggs between the last two bowls – egg whites in one, yolks in the other. Add milk and pumpkin puree to the yolks and stir until well combined, then add melted butter and stir again. Using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture to the dry mixture and stir until just combined, don’t over mix. Add the beer and stir until combined. Gently fold in the egg whites. Spray waffle iron with butter-flavored cooking spray. Cook waffles according to manufactures’ directions. Recipe makes 6 to 8 waffles. -Recipe courtesy of TheBeeroness.com

Reminiscing â&#x20AC;&#x153;The One about

rofessional brewers craft many dozens or even hundreds of beers. Into each one they pour a bit of their heart and soul. For most of them though, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a special brew that launched a career. It could have been because the label was beautifully symbolic, or because the recipe was totally unique. Maybe it was because they used a never-before-tried brewing method, or because the beer was praised by a world-renowned expert. Or it could have been appreciated as an homage to an old-time classic, or something that was a surprise smash hit . . . By Danya Henninger www.origlio.com

"Funnel Cake started selling like, well, hotcakes..." For Jamie Queli of Forgotten Boardwalk, it was those last two put together. As she readied her brewery for its late 2014 launch in the former Cherry Hill home of Flying Fish, the Jersey Shore native got into a tiff with her head brewer, David Bronstein. He badly wanted to make a cream ale as one of his first offerings; Queli was not down with it.

Jamie Queli

“It’s not a very popular style, and I doubted it would be a high-selling beer,” Queli says. She told Bronstein that if he could figure out a way to ensure its popularity, she’d give in to his cream ale dreams. His answer was to brew it with real vanilla beans and lactose for extra body, but the kicker was the name: Funnel Cake. Sure enough, it was an immediate sensation. Funnel Cake started selling like, well, hotcakes, and hasn’t stopped. Forty-one percent of the beer Queli sells is Funnel Cake.

“People love it because it’s every bit as good as a Belgian..." That’s right about in line with Weyerbacher’s best-seller, Merry Monks. Founder Dan Weirback says it makes up 40 percent of the brewery’s sales and he credits Merry Monks with boosting his brewery’s profile – albeit a decade-and-a-half prior. In early 2000, Weirback took a trip to Belgium and fell for the rich, sweet, bottle-conditioned ales omnipresent in Belgium. Inspired, he returned to his Easton, PA brew house, determined to create one of his own. Merry Monks was introduced that winter as a seasonal. Demand was so great that by 2002 it was a year-rounder.

Dan Weirback

“People love it because it’s every bit as good as a Belgian,” Weirback says, “but not nearly as pricey.” The buzz-inducing 9.3 percent ABV tripel is now the brewery’s best seller.

“It looked goofy teetering over our boil kettle, but it worked.” “Balanced” isn’t exactly a word that could be applied to Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA – and that’s entirely by design. When Dogfish first started making it back in 1999, “there weren’t any other Imperial IPAs that I knew of,” says president and founder Sam Calagione. To create its intense, pungent hoppiness without accompanying bitterness, he rigged a DIY-hopping machine out of a perforated bucket, duct tape and a vibrating hand-held football game. “It looked goofy teetering over our boil kettle,” Cala-

says, “butlost it worked.” The brewery The bohemian vibe of philly's most eclectic street wgione as nearly to highw ay is now known throughout the world for its unique continconstruction. beer-loving entrepreneurs saved theual-hopping day and the liveswith on.90 Minute style, andvibe it all started

Sam Calagione

www.origlio.com

IPA.

“As soft and aromatic as the best from Bohemia.” What’s considered high in alcohol has evolved quite a bit. When Philadelphia’s Dock Street Brewing introduced Illuminator Dopplebock in the late ‘90s, its 7.5 percent ABV was “unheard of,” says co-founder Rosemarie Certo. She points to the dark lager as a memorable career point, but there’s another Dock Street beer she credits for inscribing her name into beer history: Bohemian Pilsner. “I am most proud to have been involved with creating a pilsner that was one of Michael Jackson’s favorites,” she says, quoting the late beer author and luminary’s description: “As soft and aromatic as the best from Bohemia.”

Rosemarie Certo

Bohemian Pilsner was Dock Street’s second commercially available beer, and Certo loves everything about it, from the beautiful woman on the label to the time and care it takes to create. “A good pilsner is clean, complex and balanced, without blemish,” she explains. “You might say that applies to all styles, but for pilsners there is nowhere to hide an imperfection. There is no single, overpowering ingredient... you see and smell and taste everything that is present, good or bad. A pilsner takes time and pampering.”

"Balanced and zippy..." Quality and consistency are what Cape May Brewing Co. founder Ryan Krill credits with making his five-year-old venture at the southern tip of New Jersey into a beer-lover's travel destination. He thinks the wide selection of stand-up offerings is the main draw, but if he has to pick one that really helped him stand out from the crowd, he goes with the IPA. “Cape May IPA is what made my career,” Krill says. “Balanced and zippy, it always nudges you for one more.”

Ryan Krill

"...PMD is polarizing, but that’s part of what makes it popular." For Trevor Hayward and Luke Bowen of Evil Genius, Purple Monkey Dishwasher marked the start of their brewery’s fast rise. The press release touting the new recipe generated the most website traffic the young outfit had ever seen – and that was before anyone had even tasted the beer. A roasty porter infused with real chocolate and peanut butter, PMD (as the partners refer to it) is polarizing, but that’s part of what makes it popular. “It seems to be a flavor people either decide to love or hate, but either way, they want to try the beer to reinforce their own expectations,” Hayward says, adding, “We almost always bring it to festivals now, regardless of the weather – even when it’s 80 degrees out, we’ll kick the whole keg.”

Trevor Hayward www.origlio.com

BEER REDISCOVERED

Unibroue Éphémère Apple

Matt Summers

Bartender at The Garage & Grace Tavern

Brewed in Quebec, Canada, Unibroue Éphémère Apple is a white ale made with Granny Smith apples, coriander, orange peel and other spices with "ale on lees", which means yeast added after the initial fermentation. It has been the favorite beer of long time Philly bartender Matt Summers since he first tried it several years ago. “Éphémère Apple is my everyday go-to,” says Summers. “I buy it by the case and it's been a permanent resident in my fridge for many years. I even have a reserved area for it. For me, it hits all the right notes. It's so damn refreshing and sessionable, at 5.5% it maintains its essence even after more than a few. Yeast added after fermentation is what makes this beer so tart and complex. When I'm king of the world, every bar will be required to carry this beer.” Unibroue, creator of La Fin du Monde, makes a variety of beers brewed in the “Belgian Tradition.” La Fin du Monde, a Belgian tripel, combines subtlety and strength with a chorus of fruit, spice and hop notes that make this highly effervescent "liquid gold" so distinctive. To date, La Fin du Monde has earned more medals and awards, including some of the world’s highest honors, than any other Canadian beer. Summers says he feels Éphémère Apple is often overlooked. “It started as a spring seasonal and is not as high octane as the rest of their stable of beers, so I think Éphémère Apple kinda flies under the radar,” he says. “Now it's made year-round – thank the gods!” Summers, who currently tends bar at The Garage and Grace Tavern, says choosing Éphémère Apple as a beer that should be rediscoverd was easy. “I know all of my bartender friends, who have been serving it to me for years, will get a kick out of reading about me gushing over this beer, although they've already heard it a million times.”

DRINKTHESE

NOW Prosit!

Ayinger Oktober Fest-Märzen Dinkelacker Oktobefest Märzen Paulaner Oktoberfest Märzen Paulaner Oktoberfest Wiesn Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest

Oktober-festive

Yuengling Oktoberfest Samuel Adams OctoberFest Shiner Oktoberfest Sly Fox Oktoberfest Sierra Nevada Oktoberfest Harpoon Octoberfest Heavy Seas TreasureFest Firestone Walker Oaktoberfest Great Lakes Oktoberfest Abita Octoberfest Straub Oktoberfest

Oh My Gourd!

Blue Moon Harvest Pumpkin Ale Samuel Adams 20 Pounds of Pumpkin Jack-O Traveler Dogfish Head Punkin Ale Dock Street The Great Pumpkin Ale UFO Pumpkin Evil Genius Trick or Treat Shipyard Pumpkinhead Spring House Braaaiins! Pumpkin Ale for Zombies

Pumped Up Pumpkins

Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Heavy Seas The Great’er Pumpkin Coronado Punk’in Drublic

Fresh Hopped Happiness

Sierra Nevada Estate Ale Sierra Nevada Northern Hemisphere Harvest Evil Genius Chickity China the Chinese Chicken Lagunitas Born Yesterday Fresh Hop Pale Ale

Brews to

Allagash Saison Style: Saison ABV: 6.1% Available: Year-round

for

s summer fades to fall, a familiar set of beers take over tap handles and store shelves far and wide. There is no denying that Oktoberfests and pumpkin beers make for great drinking this time of year. But a much wider variety of styles and flavors are available that mesh perfectly with the autumnal equinox. It’s time to squash everything you think you know about fall drinking and give these brews a try!

Great Lakes Nosferatu Style: Red Ale ABV: 8% Available: Late Fall/ winter

Like vampires (especially the notorious German vampire from the 1920s film era), this beer has a bit of a reputation as the “beer with bite.” A highly-hopped Imperial red ale, Nosferatu is rich with flavor, yet remarkably balanced.

Woodchuck Fall Harvest Style: Cider ABV: 5% Available: Fall

The fall harvest brings farmers and communities together to celebrate another year of fruitful labor. It’s a time of shorter days, cooler nights and great apples. This cider has a complex and elegant character of apple, cinnamon and nutmeg balanced out with a hint of American white oak – a true taste of the season.

Allagash Saison is the brewery’s interpretation of a classic Belgian farmhouse ale. It is a golden hued beer, brewed with a 2-row malt blend, malted rye, oats and dark Belgian candi sugar. It is hopped with Tettnang, Bravo and Cascade hops. Fermented with a traditional saison yeast strain, this beer exhibits notes of spice and tropical fruit in the aroma. Citrus and a peppery spice dominate the flavor and make way for a pleasant malt character. This full-bodied brew with a remarkably dry finish is a saison for all seasons.

Lagunitas Born Yesterday Fresh Hop Pale Ale Style: Pale Ale ABV: 7.5% Available: Year-round

A newborn version of their re-born Pale, Born Yesterday is Lagunitas’ Pale Ale with added wet, Virgin, lupulin-drenched, un-kilned hops. Kind of like Frankenstein, but better.

Samuel Adams Boston Lager Style: Lager ABV: 4.9% Available: Year-Round

Samuel Adams Boston Lager is an excellent example of the fundamentals of a great beer, offering a full, rich flavor that is both balanced and complex. The unique flavor is the result of a perfect combination of hand-selected ingredients and a traditional four vessel brewing process. It has a smooth, full body with a spectrum of malt flavor ranging from slightly sweet to roasted. This beer is the perfect companion to sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;mores on a chilly night.

Green Flash Treasure Chest Style: IPA ABV: 5.7% Available: Late Summer/Fall

This fruit-forward IPA features Mosaic hops enhanced by the addition of fresh grapefruit. It is balanced by prickly pear juice and hibiscus flowers that give the beer a naturally pink hue. A portion of the proceeds from all Treasure Chest beer sold is donated to regional breast cancer charities, and because October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, there is no better way to show your support this season.

Pinkus Organic Ur-Pils Style: Pilsner ABV: 5.2% Available: Year-round

Brewed with organic malt and hops, Ur-Pils is light to medium in body, dry and well-balanced with a clean hop and malt character. It makes a great refresher while raking leaves or tailgating on those warmer-than-average fall afternoons.

Monk's Cafe Style: Flemish Sour Ale ABV: 5.5% Available: Year-Round

Named for the famous beer bar in Philadelphia, this Flemish Burgundy from the Van Steenberge brewery is an old brown in style, aged in oak, and is one of the oldest beers made by the brewery. This Belgian sour ale, a traditional blend of young and old beers, is mildly tart and light in body with a lactic/sour nose and a bit of sweet and sour in the finish. Very refreshing!

www.origlio.com

HOP ART Charlie Wells Dry Hopped Lager

Wells’ Master Brewer Chris Reid created a golden lager to celebrate this English brewery’s 140th anniversary. Charlie Wells Dry Hopped Lager is brewed with natural mineral water from a well sunk by Charles Wells himself in the early 1900s. To celebrate the new beer and honor the brewery's founder, an "illustrated Charlie" was created. Each tattoo documents his adventurous life. Before he became a brewer, Charlie was a seaman who travelled the world in the Merchant Navy, hence the eight-pointed star tattoo in the middle of his chest. The Josephine tattoo on his right shoulder honors the love of his life. Wells opened the brewery in 1876 in order to marry Josephine Grimbley, whose father wouldn’t let his daughter marry a mere mariner. The couple settled in Charlie’s hometown, and birthplace of the brewery, Bedford England, where they raised their eight children, which explains his Bedford tattoo. Other tats include a starfish, which was the original logo of the brewery; Australian hops like the ones used to make Dry Hopped Lager; a well, depicting the one Charles sunk, which continues to be the sole water source at the brewery today, and the words, “The Soul of Beer” which according to Charlie Wells, was barley.

the bookshelf

BEER PAIRING THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FROM THE PAIRING PROS by Julia Herz & Gwen Conley “Only in the world of beer and food can 1+1=5,” said Julia Herz during her visit to Philadelphia this past May for the Craft Brewers Conference. “When you are dialed in to a great beer and food pairing that suits your palate, the experience is greater than the sum of its parts. It’s a home run.” It took Herz and co-author Gwen Conley three years to write their book, Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. One book critic actually said that every meal you eat without this book is an opportunity lost. Lots of book titles use the phrase “essential guide”. But whether you are a complete novice or an experienced food professional, this book really is an essential guide to maximizing your enjoyment of drinking beer with any food imaginable – from french fries to foie gras. This guide includes everything from planning a beer dinner to explaining why a bit of salt cuts bitterness, but enhances sweetness.

But don’t let that last sentence intimidate you, the book is really fun. Think of it as a “beer and food tasting workbook” that takes you on a journey to understand why certain combinations of beer and food appeal to you. There is even an entire chapter devoted to that journey called ‘Palate Trips’. This workbook-for-your-senses uses beer and food as educational props. But unlike the text books you used in grammar school, there is no right or wrong answer. “We each have the power to properly pair based on what is pleasing to our individual palates. Screw what anyone else says. If you like it or not, that’s what should carry the day,” said Herz in a recent interview. In other words, you won't get an F in her class. Herz and Conley are obviously passionate about beer, but they are also bona fide experts. Herz is the Craft Beer Program Director of the Brewers Association, an award-winning home brewer and Master Cicerone. Conley, a microbiologist by training, is the Director of Production and Quality Assurance at The Lost Abbey/Port Brewing in San Marcos, California. They teamed up to write their book after years of running public beer and food tastings together. Their goal is to elevate the appreciation of beer, and perhaps coax a wine sommelier, or two, into recommending beer with food. Yet the authors have another objective. “There is a cause behind this book beyond just advancing our beer culture,” Herz said. “The book is a labor of love. All the profits will be donated to The Foundation for Alcohol Research and Best Friends Animal Society." Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros is available at Amazon.com. It retails for $15.95.

www.origlio.com

gets draughted

MARK HELLENDRUNG Narragansett Beer

It hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always been an easy road for New England's oldest beer. Founded in 1890, Narragansett, a brewery with a long and storied past, actually closed its doors in 1983. But, in 2005, Rhode Island native and former President of Nantucket Nectars, Mark Hellendrung, along with several other investors, bought Narragansett Beer and reconnected with former Brewmaster Bill Anderson to re-create the original Lager recipe. From their flagship Lager to a great line of seasonals and rotating beer series, the brewery with a 126-year legacy is back and better than ever with a new brewery in the works that will bring production back to Rhode Island.

www.origlio.com

D.L. Tell us about the new brewery “campus”. What will it entail and when will the project be finished? M.H. The project involves the revitalization of a 130,000 square foot manufacturing facility in Pawtucket, RI that once supplied metal works used to build Navy ships, among other things. The campus will be completed in phases and will ultimately house our brewery, a tasting room, gift shop, at least one restaurant, a bike shop and a beer education facility. The grand opening for brewing operations is slated for November of this year. D.L. Why was it so important for you to revive the brand in 2005?

gets draughted

M.H. For generations, literally since 1890, Narragansett was like a family member to New Englanders. The beer was part of the community, and prior to getting it back, it was living an existence that it didn’t deserve. Fortunately, we were able to restore the quality of the beer to the original and have a lot of fun in the process. D.L. What does Narragansett’s motto, “Made on Honor. Sold on Merit.” mean to you? M.H. The motto was coined in 1909 and greeted visitors to the original brewery. “Made on Honor” speaks to a quality product, while “Sold on Merit” identifies the pride we take in selling it. D.L. Who coined the phrase, “Hi-Neighbor! Have a ‘Gansett”? M.H. My understanding is that Jack Reynolds coined the phrase in the 1950s, but it was made famous by legendary broadcaster Curt Gowdy, who did the play-by-play for every Boston Red Sox radio broadcast. [Narragansett was the first beer company to officially sponsor a professional sports team, first the Braves, then the Red Sox.] D.L. The famous Theodor Geisel (a.k.a. Dr. Seuss) created the Chief ‘Gansett image and other advertising in 1934. How would you compare your brand image now with the way he portrayed it back then? M.H. I think what people today appreciate about our brand image and design is that we’ve presented our heritage in a contemporary, interesting format. For example, every element of the design of our 16 oz. Lager can is from some moment in our 125-year history, but pieced back together to look timeless, while relevant at the same time. D.L. Many of your beers have stories behind them. Do you think the story behind the beer is as important as the way it tastes?

M.H. Every summer I’m blown away by the awareness and interest in Shark Week and Jaws, and by extension, people quoting movie lines and re-enacting the famous scene. Jaws was really the first summer blockbuster and it tapped into a fear that lives in most of us. D.L. Between the Lovecraft series and the tie-in to Jaws, horror is a recurrent Narragansett theme. Are you a fan of the genre? M.H. Absolutely! D.L. In the late ‘60s and early ‘70s Narragansett was a part of several big music festivals that included such acts as Led Zepplin and Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young. Have you ever thought of doing a music series of beer? M.H. Not so much a music series, although that’s a good idea. What we’ve done is work with a lot of bands, like Deer Tick, for local events like the WBRU Summer Concert Series. D.L. Your Mash-up Series that includes Del’s Shandy, Autocrat Coffee Milk Stout and Allie’s Donuts are made in collaboration with some of Rhode Island’s most famous companies. How did you choose which businesses to collaborate with? M.H. Our collaborations are not only about local icons, they also need to make sense for a beer. There are other local staples like hot wieners and clam cakes, for example, that we haven’t yet figured out how to translate to beer. D.L. The newest in the series, Hi-Neighbor! Have a Hefeweizen!, is made in collaboration with Bananagrams (a tile word game that originated in Rhode Island). This is your first collaboration with a company that doesn’t make food or beverages. What’s the story behind this one? M.H. Bananagrams was started 10 years ago in Pawtucket, RI, the home of our new brewery. So we have that local connection. And while there isn’t a direct food or beverage tie, we do see a real association between the social aspects of playing games and drinking beer. D.L. You are not releasing Narragansett Fest this year – why is that?

M.H. I strongly believe that one of the unique strengths of craft brewers across the country is the ability to tell stories. And really, what is a beer without a story behind it? Drinking beer is a social experience, and sharing the stories behind the beers is a big part of that.

M.H. We put Fest on pause until we get the new brewery up and running. Fans really love the beer, but it’s more of a specialty release. We’ll be able to create small batch beers more easily at the brewery in Pawtucket.

D.L. Your Lovecraft Series of beers pays homage to the horror story author and Rhode Island native, H.P. Lovecraft. What inspired the series?

D.L. There are several recipes made using beer on your website. Do you ever cook with beer? If so, what’s your specialty?

M.H. The series came together from a few different directions. One of our ‘Gansett Girls, who is a librarian, brought up the idea. Sean Larkin, our Brewmaster, is a fan of Lovecraft and finally, H.P. and Narragansett were both celebrating their 125th year “birthdays” in 2015, when the series was created. Ultimately we felt the name and his creativity and inspiration were a great canvas for us to explore different styles of beer. D.L. What comes first in the creation of the beers in the series – the beer style or the particular work of Lovecraft? M.H. There really is no “this first and that next”. Just like there isn’t a beginning or an end. It’s a collaborative process, not just with Sean Larkin’s creativity or H.P.’s narratives, but also local artists who tell the story through the artwork on the can. 18

D.L. Each summer, coinciding with the Discovery Channel’s hit series Shark Week, Narragansett Lager “throwback cans” are released – the same cans that were “crushed by Quint” in the iconic movie, Jaws. Are you surprised by the amount of fans the movie still has?

www.origlio.com

M.H. My go-to is Beer Can Chicken made using our tall boy cans. It’s a meal that a novice like me can master. My wife, however, has a soup business and she makes a lot of stews in the winter with our heartier beers. They are delicious. D.L. What is your favorite Narragansett beer and food pairing? M.H. Lager and seafood, hands down. D.L. Halloween is coming up. If you had to choose a type of candy and a Narragansett beer to pair with it, what would the pairing be? M.H. Lager and a Tastykake! – I guess that’s not a candy, but it’s close enough… right?

D.L. Who are the ‘Gansett Girls and what do they do? M.H. The ‘Gansett Girls are a nod to our past when Narragansett ran the, “Miss Hi-Neighbor!” contests. Today, they are the team that conducts bar promotions and tastings. D.L. What is the best part about owning a brewery? What is the most challenging? M.H. The best part is honestly the people I get to meet. I’m out on the road as often as I can be, talking to people about beer and life in general. I love hearing people’s stories. The most challenging part has to be the competition. Beer drinkers today have so many choices, and the big guys in the industry have so much more power than we do. But it’s that challenge that gets me up every morning to sell another case of ‘Gansett.

D.L. If you had to drink one beer that was not one of yours for the rest of your life, what would it be and why? M.H. That’s a tough question, but it would have to be a refreshing lager. My buddy is a big surfer and I’ve been caught having a few of his Pacificos… that would have to be my choice. D.L. Can you tell us something about yourself that someone couldn’t find online? M.H. I get asked a lot of questions and tell a lot of stories about Narragansett Beer, which is a real passion of mine, but words can’t describe the importance of my wife and four daughters in my life.

www.origlio.com

Fall is a time for tasty treats, touchdowns and tailgates. It’s also a time to enjoy two of the world’s most popular beer styles – Oktoberfests and pumpkin beers. Malty, toasty Oktoberfest beers have just enough hop bitterness to balance the malt sweetness. These oh-so-easy to drink lagers – they are after all pounded in the tents of Oktoberfest – are perfect with tailgate fare. And Dogfish Head’s Punkin Ale, paired with any portable chocolate dessert, will propel your parking lot party into the end zone.

AYINGER OKTOBER FEST-MÄRZEN & GRILLED BRATWURST

SIERRA NEVADA OKTOBERFEST & PULLED PORK SANDWICHES

HACKER-PSCHORR ORIGINAL OKTOBERFEST & GERMAN POTATO SALAD

DOGFISH HEAD PUNKIN ALE & DARK CHOCOLATE CAKE POPS

True to the classic Bavarian style, this full-bodied, flavorful Märzen lager has been winning gold medals at the World Beer Championship for over a decade. Last year, Ayinger was the “Top Rated German Oktoberfest Marzen” on Ratebeer.com. The caramelized flavors of the malts in this Oktoberfest beer are a perfect match for crispy-skinned brats.

Each year, Sierra Nevada partners with a brewery in Germany to create a unique Oktoberfest beer that honors tradition, while advancing the style. Working with Mahrs Bräu of Bamberg, this year’s Sierra Oktoberfest boasts rich malt complexity, but with a noticeable spicy hop character from the use of Record, a nearly forgotten hop varietal. It’s perfect with pulled pork, as the meat’s saltiness balances the malt sweetness of the beer.

One of the six traditional Munich beers served at Oktoberfest in Germany, Hacker-Pschorr Original is rich and balanced with a sweet malt aroma and refreshing bitterness. Full-bodied and flavorful, this authentic Oktoberfest complements the savory flavors and vinegar in Bavarian potato salad.

The OG of pumpkin beers began winning awards in 1994, when it earned 1st prize in the Punkin Chunkin Recipe Contest. That was six months before Dogfish Head Brewery even opened! Sam Calagione, the brewery’s founder, describes Punkin Ale as having a “unique, vibrant, fresh, super-duper pumpkin-y character without being too much.” Decadent chocolate pops or any rich, chocolate dessert will balance Punkin Ale’s malty notes and brown sugar spices.

www.origlio.com

THE

ART

& SCIENCE

OF CONSISTENCY SAM ADAMS, SIERRA NEVADA AND GREAT LAKES HARNESS HI-TECH TO ACHIEVE UNFAILINGLY DELICIOUS BEER, BUT NUMBERS NEVER TRUMP THE BREWER’S TASTE BUDS. By Danya Henninger

f you’ve ever had a Samuel Adams Boston Lager, you’ve shared a beer with Jim Koch. Thirty-two years after Boston Beer’s founding, the guy who started it all still tastes every single batch of his flagship label. The reason isn’t so much because he loves beer, although that’s certainly the case (sipping through 20 to 25 beer samples before lunchtime takes passion). No, Koch does his morning tasting sessions to help ensure each bottle or keg, that his company ships, is as perfect as can be.

has helped to make the beer better, in so much as it has helped to make it more consistent.” Running two production facilities more than 2,000 miles apart puts extra pressure on Sierra Nevada, because their beer not only has to be fresh, it has to taste the same, no matter where it’s brewed. A Sierra Pale Ale should taste like a Sierra Pale Ale, whether it’s from California or North Carolina. And just like Boston Beer, live tasting is an important step in the process.

While those tasting panels have continued across the decades, other quality assurance processes have advanced immensely, but they’re still a critical part.

“For every beer that we brew, we have analytical specs from the brewhouse all the way through the finished beer in the bottle,” says Scott Jennings, head brewer at Sierra Nevada's East Coast outpost in Mills River, NC. “But the follow up is the sensory match.”

“Since day one, we’ve been obsessed with quality and freshness,” says Sam Adams head brewer Jennifer Glanville, “[but] technology

Specs are pulled from dozens of checkpoints – the wort, the yeast chains, the water tank, the fermenters, the bright tanks – and run

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Great Lakes QA with brewer, Jon Scudamore

through what Jennings calls “a lot of expensive instrumentation.” At the end of the line, a panel of sensory experts tastes the beer and submits a subjective opinion. If a beer doesn’t pass, it doesn't leave the brewery. “We do have an advantage with Pale Ale,” Jennings notes, “because we bottle condition, so we have it in house for at least 10 days after it goes into the bottle. If there’s a problem, it’s easy to catch.” Quality control doesn’t stop when the beer leaves the brewery. Boston Beer pioneered putting freshness dates on beer labels, and sales reps spend a good portion of their time checking those dates out in the field. “Whether it means checking freshness on kegs in a pub basement or checking the shelves at a grocery store, we’re constantly, almost obsessively, checking our beers to ensure they’re fresh,” says Glanville. “If something past expiration is found, we’ll buy it back and replenish it with fresh beer.”

Scott Jennings, Head Brewer at Sierra Nevada in Mills River, NC

To stay on top of both freshness and quality, Great Lakes Brewing Co. in Cleveland, OH, relies on a tracking system that lab manager Robert Hollerorth refers to as the beer’s “social security number.” After the lab team does tests on raw ingredients, the number is assigned to a batch and then used to monitor each step along the way. The mid-size brewery (producing 150,000 barrels annually) recently invested in a cell counter to help determine yeast health, and a gas chromatography mass spectrometer to analyze chemical composition of samples, with the goal of catching any issues early in the brewing process. “We don’t have money like the big guys,” says GLCB spokesperson Adam Ritterspach, “but quality and consistency is really part of our brand.” New equipment helps that objective, but human opinion again plays a part. The brewery keeps sample bottles of each batch it ships, and then does comparative tests using both quantitative and qualitative methods. “With Dortmunder Gold,” Ritterspach explains, “we’ll take a bottle just off the line, a bottle that’s a month old and a bottle that’s past its freshness date, collect data on them and correlate it with their ‘social security’ numbers. They’re also run through our daily tasting panel.” The last step to maintaining high quality, once the ingredients, intermediary products and final beer is vetted, is the packaging. Great Lakes recently upgraded to wider bottle labels and higher walls for six-pack holders, with the goal of keeping out oxidizing light. At Boston Beer, the most recent advance was the launch of the “Sam Can.” The result of two years of ergonomic and sensory research, the new can “provides a drinking experience closer to the taste and comfort of drinking beer from a glass.”

Jennifer Glanville, Head Brewer for Sam Adams

Jim Koch of Sam Adams Brewing Company

“Whether it means checking freshness on kegs in a pub basement or checking the shelves at a grocery store, we’re constantly, almost obsessively, checking our beers to ensure they’re fresh.”

But no matter what the lab results say, the final arbiters of whether a beer is great, are the people who drink it.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Bottle Check

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company QA

Photos courtesy of Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., The Boston Beer Co. and Great Lakes Brewing Co.

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e c n e i r xpe y Vietz

E rr e J r a e r w g a e t r S e B k g A M rd-winnin with a Roc

a n w o i A t s a ' r a Canad His Collabo n o s f f i R

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Jerry Vietz & Dave Mustaine

From the time he first picked up a guitar at age 13, music has been a huge influence in all aspects of Jerry Vietz's life. Vietz, Master Brewer for Quebec's Unibroue, the iconic brewery that brought us Beers like blanche de chambly, trois pistoles and La Fin Du Monde, says that music is his therapy, helping him to make the transition from his work at the brewery to his "second shift job" as husband and father. Excited for the upcoming release of A Tout Le Monde, a beer made in collaboration with Megadeth's Dave Mustaine, Vietz chatted with Draught Lines to discuss music, family and of course, beer. D.L. What was it like to work with musician Dave Mustaine? J.V. Working with Dave on the Megadeth Beer has been great. He and I are very similar in our thinking. Dave cares about quality, as is apparent from his music. He also realizes that brewing is an art form, and we have a mutual respect for each other. D.L. A Tout Le Monde is a Belgian-style dry-hopped saison with an ABV of 4.5%. What inspired you to make a beer completely different from anything Unibroue has done before? J.V. Although our beers are well balanced, they are considered strong. They are very smooth and drink like beers with much lower ABVs. I attend a lot of concerts, and I see people drinking so much so quickly, they are falling down by the third song. Imagine if they were drinking one of Unibroue’s 8-10% beers. I wanted to offer a beer that would give the same drinking experience, but with a much lower ABV. A Tout Le Monde is light, but has the same complexity and level of quality as one of Unibroue’s traditional beers. A lot of people will discover Unibroue through A Tout Le Monde and I want to take their taste buds to a new place with this saison. I hope from there they will try our other beers. I may even release another, higher ABV version of A Tout Le Monde sometime in the future. D.L. Have you worked with bands/musicians in the past? If so, was it successful? J.V. I have worked with a lot of artists over the years, and am a big supporter of the Montreal Blues Society. The music scene in Quebec is very close knit, and I have an affinity for musicians here. I often co-host events with musicians, such as Steve Strongman, an award-winning singer/songwriter from Ontario, and The Paul Deslaurier’s Band, who recently reached #1 on the USA Blues Chart. These events are a great opportunity for both the musicians and the brewery. People who have never tried our beers, but are fans of the music, get a chance to taste what Unibroue has to offer, and the bands are able to reach a new group of people who come out to taste the beers.

amount of patience and attention to detail. I strive for perfection every time and, like with music, perfection is something that is very rarely achieved. However, I try to get as close to it as possible with each new release. I really believe in quality over quantity. A lot of artists seem to be coming out with a new album every couple of months, which is similar to the rate that many craft breweries are releasing a new beer. But brewing a quality beer, like making a great album, takes time. It takes 6 to 18 months for me to develop and release a new beer for Unibroue, and while that might seem long, the results speak for themselves when you taste our beer. I brew with my heart and each beer is an expression of myself. This is, I hope, what comes across when people try our beer. D.L. There have been studies that say the type of music people listen to can affect what they like to eat and drink. What is your take on that? J.V. I love this question. I very much believe that music affects mood. Sensory memory is incredibly powerful. Some songs I hear make me think of certain seasons, and visa-versa. When I smell flowers in the spring, certain songs come to mind. This relates to beer as well, as the taste of some beers remind me of specific times in my life. This is not surprising, since all of our senses are so closely related. I want people to think of our beers when they feel a certain emotion, just as they think of a particular album or song. D.L. Speaking of particular albums, is there a specific type of music you like to listen to when working on a new beer? J.V. Well, when I brewed at home, I listened to different styles of music, depending on what kind of beer I was working on. Now at the brewery, it really depends on the project. Of course I listened to Dave Mustaine/Megadeth throughout the making of A Tout Le Monde. Because of this, Megadeth’s sound became part of the beer. D.L. If you could pick any musician, living or dead, to collaborate with on a beer, who would it be? J.V. This is a difficult question. I am a huge fan of so many musicians, but that does not mean a collaboration with them would be successful. To work together and create, there must be a similar way of thinking, as well as mutual respect. In the beginning, there must be a common point – something to build from. Collaborating is not one person saying, “I want this” or “do this.” A true collaboration means working together from start to finish, with full commitment on both ends. No matter who it is, if you can find a common bond and build something together, the end result will be something neither person could do alone. D.L. What can we expect to see from you in the future? J.V. I’m going to keep listening to, and taking energy from, good music. And I’m going to keep on brewing good beers.

D.L. What are the similarities between making good music and brewing good beer? J.V. Brewing, like music, is an art. For me, creating a new beer is very similar to a musician writing an album. It takes an enormous

A Tout Le Monde Label

Jerry Vietz playing guitar

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You could follow the herd, belly up to the bar and knock one back, But sipping on a beer redolent of the Flavors found in the best (most expensive) whiskeys, is another thing entirely. By Lew Bryson

ou must have friends who are drinking whiskey these days, friends who are quick to jump on a trend, and you're thinking about joining them... but what about your beer? Whiskey is, of course, basically beer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; usually without hops, that's been distilled and barrel-aged. Beer and whiskey share grain-based flavor similarities, especially in unpeated malt whiskies aged in bourbon barrels, but years of barrel aging (and four years is considered short) make for major differences. Yes whiskey is booming, from single malt Scotch, to Irish, to bourbon and rye, and we're even seeing the once unknown Japanese whiskeys in area bars. There's an explosion of craft-distilled American whiskeys, and I just wrote a piece about the wave of single malts coming from countries like France, Sweden and Taiwan. If you're thinking about getting in on that whiskey action, finding out what all the fuss is about, if you want to be seen as one of the cool kids... you better brace yourself. First, if you want the real flavor, and you want the reflected prestige that comes from being a whiskey connoisseur, you've got to sip it straight, or with only a few drops of water. You can't knock it back in a shot, or dress it up in a whiskey sour; no cred for that. Sip it, and get used to that burning sensation. Truth be told, you do get used to it, and it's worth it, but it takes a while, and until you get there, it's kinda painful.

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Second, you waited too long. A lot more people are drinking (or at least buying) whiskey now, and it takes years to make more. So the good stuff has gotten a bit scarce, which means the prices have skyrocketed. It's hard to find a single malt for under $40 these days, or a bourbon for under $25, and the highly-prized ones go up very steeply from there. $120 a bottle is not unusual at all. Kind of puts a $12 sixpack into perspective, doesn't it? So maybe... just dip your toe in the waters at first with some beers that bring you the flavors of whiskey. If you're looking for that delicious island flavor of Scotch, line up some Belhaven Wee Heavy, an old favorite of mine that gives you the full, sweet, juicy flavors of Scottish malt. The annual release of Samuel Smith Yorkshire Stingo is nigh; there's a mighty amount of British malt in there, too. If it's the smoke of Scotch that intrigues you, grapple with the smoky nature of Stone's Smoked Porter. Rye whiskey may have launched the rye beer renaissance in America; rumors of Anchor's Fritz Maytag's orders of rye malt (for his distilling experiments) led other brewers to jump-start rye beers. The spicy flavor proved popular; get a glassful with Dock Street's Rye IPA. If you want some of the flavor that really makes whiskey different, without the big price tag and the red-hot smack in the chops, you'll want some barrel-aged beers. Brewers have

“Don’t get us wrong; we love our spirits (both ours, and other great local offerings). My favorite thing about Dock Street Rye IPA though, is the incredible balance, and the assertiveness of the citrusy hops and spicy rye. It will outshine any old brown spirit that really isn't hand crafted or up to the standards of an excellent local beer. It's a beer I can sip on, but don't quite have to.” - Rosemarie Certo, co-founder of Dock Street Brewing Co.

“Weyerbacher Insanity is our barleywine aged in fresh bourbon barrels. We only use the barrels once so the best of the bourbon flavor really comes through. I’d rather sip on a brandy snifter, or two, of Insanity than quickly down a shot of any spirit. It’s a longer, more satisfying experience, for a lot less money.” - Dan Weirback, founder of Weyerbacher Brewing Co.

“When you order a spirit, you’re looking for big flavor. We age Curieux for seven weeks in bourbon barrels. More than giving it some bourbon flavoring, the aging process transforms Allagash Tripel. It develops notes of coconut, vanilla and oak that all come together to form a complex harmony of flavor. I’d say Curieux, with its size and flavor, can absolutely stand up to any spirit.” -Rob Tod, founder of Allagash Brewing Co.

realized that there's a ton of flavor in those used barrels; distillers do it too, Scotch is aged in barrels that have already been used to age bourbon or wine. Barrels give flavor in three ways. While the wood is watertight, air slowly passes through, allowing the beer to gently oxidize, and only some beers benefit from that process. The wood itself has flavor compounds developed during the curing and charring processes: flavors very similar to vanilla, coconut, fig and maple are the most common. And of course, there's the leftover whiskey that's always in there, because even the distillers can't squeeze it all out! Try a big juicy one like Weyerbacher's Insanity, a malty barleywine wrapped in whiskey wood, or wake up with their Sunday Morning Stout, brewed with coffee and aged in bourbon barrels. To make Curieux, Allagash puts their sweet golden tripel into bourbon barrels, and the beer really picks up the coconut notes. Port Brewing's Old Viscosity (and Older Viscosity) delivers a powerful punch of malt and boozy barrel character that can still be enjoyed by the mouthful, particularly with an aged gouda or some roast beef. Many of these beers are limited releases: putting beer in a barrel takes extra time, extra expense, and extra care, not to mention a lot of extra room. Look for the release of Firestone Walker's Parabola, and reward yourself with its insane complexity. You don't have to give up on whiskey, of course. It's still going to be there waiting after you've had some beers, although the price is still going to be the same, or higher! Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate magazine from 1996 to 2015, and the author of six books, the most recent of which is "Tasting Whiskey”.

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Behind the Suds With Olivier Dedeycker, Brewer of Saison Dupont, as told to Draught Lines

Fourth generation Brewmaster of Belgium’s Brasserie Dupont, Olivier Dedeycker, made his inaugural trip to the U.S. in June for the launch of “Deux Amis,” that’s French for two friends. This beer was made in collaboration with Olivier’s friend Tomme Arthur, the award-winning brewer of California’s Lost Abbey. Draught Lines was honored to spend some time with him during the Deux Amis release party at Monk’s Cafe in Philadelphia. D.L. What should Americans know about Saison Dupont? O.D. Well, first I am proud that my family’s farmhouse ale has inspired so many American brewers to explore the saison style. And you know, it’s a taste of Belgium because of the yeast that floats in the air. D.L. Tell us a little more about Deux Amis. O.D. I really wanted to work with Tomme because he makes great beer. [He was one of the first American brewers to use wild yeast and microorganisms, as they do in Belgium.] Also, he knows a lot about our Brasserie Dupont beers and the yeast we use. I wanted to create a new version of Saison Dupont, but with an American influence. This is the first time American hops have been used at the brewery, and I was eager to explore how they might behave. D.L. Which American hops did you decide to use? O.D. Tomme shipped the hops to us, and on brewing day, we opened them together. The hops he selected were Amarillo, Simcoe, Mosaic and Hallertauer Magnum. He made suggestions for ratio and quantities. It was a great decision. D.L. Did the beer turn out the way you imagined? O.D. It is very interesting. It is the same yeast and the same process as we use to create Saison Dupont. But the new hops made a lot of difference. The finish tastes of floral orange and earthy pine. It is interesting because it is a Dupont and not a Dupont, you know? *Named the “Best Beer in the World” by Men’s Journal, Saison Dupont costs about $10 a bottle. A world class bottle of wine, such as Chateau Pontet Canet 2010, is around $300. Enjoy a pint-sized bottle of this iconic beer for less money than a single glass of great wine.

Beer Banter

With Halloween just around the corner, Draught Lines reached out to the world of Twitter, and asked followers to tweet the spookily satisfying Halloween candy and beer pairing they most love! Here’s what they had to say… @jerseydan Candy corn and Great Lakes Nosferatu! @SlyFoxMark My favorite is Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and Sly Fox Oktoberfest. I pour a pint and garnish. Small nibbles as I go. Yummm. @CraftyRBeerBabe I LOVE combining Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout & Milky Way chocolate bars! Sometimes I even dunk the candy in the beer! @GKirlin Around Halloween, I like to dunk some Sour Patch Kids into my Green Flash West Coast IPA for a citrus kick! @BugTownPatriot Sweet-Tarts and Lagunitas Born Yesterday! or Twix and IPA... Or Snickers and PILS, or PB M&M's and Sucks, or.... @Feliciafied Cinnamon-dusted chocolate coffee beans + a true saison, or a Mounds/Almond Joy + Allagash Curieux (tropical Scotch flavors!) @chazdrums Butterfingers & bock (I like Shiner) go well together. Found out by accident. Like a certain world recognized brand, accidents just work. @davidnkarp Kookaburra Australian black licorice & Allagash Saison. @ChefStubbs215 Sierra Nevada Narwhal Imperial Stout and Peanut Chews. East Coast meets West Coast. @fauxciologist Abita Turbodog and a Snickers (preferably deep-fried and salted). @Sancho_Pistolas Skittlebräu!

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the Lookout Draught Lines Winter 2017

HOLIDAY HANGOVER? Suffer no more! We'll explore a few remedies that work and debunk those that don't.

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2 SP BREWING co. GETS Draughted Get the low down on this Delaware County, PA brewery, straight from their award-winning brewer Bob Barrar.

FERGUS (FERGIE)

CAREY OF FERGIE'S PUB This Philadelphia proprietor and barkeep extraordinaire dishes on a bad ass brew that most beer drinkers overlook. Photo by Danya Henninger