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SPring ISSUE
an ode to beauty fashion editorials: Glam is back. The excess of the flamboyant 70s Carte blanche givenchy’s nicolas degennes. MODe Iris van herpen, the new face of haute couture. The rebirth of lacoste with
felipe oliveira baptista .
tRends spring-summer runway report. Beauty bright colors and glam looks.
.
The law of desire: beauty and seduction
art a view on beauty orlan. the urban design of commute home. dance the search for ultimate perfection by german choreographer
Stephan Thoss.
music from portishead to lady gaga. beautiful people beauty icons.
on the COVER : Katrina L. wears a Bcbg Maxazaria dress and a Raymond Weil watch. Photography by Richard Bernardin. Styling by Patrick Vimbor. Art Director, Sylvain Blais. Makeup & hair by Nicolas Blanchet at Folio, using M.A.C. Cosmetics and TRESemmé hair products. Makeup & hair assistant, Jessica Lablanche. Katrina L. is represented by Next. Photographer’s assistant, Julien Barbès. Production, R14. Retouching, Sublim.
Vaughan Mills 905.660.9993 www.loro.ca
DRESS TO
PRINTEMPS-SPRING 2011 NO.13
President Kathia Cambron Directeur de la publication/ Editorial Director Sylvain Blais editeur@dresstokillmagazine.com Rédacteur en chef / Editor In Chief Stéphane Le Duc sleduc@dresstokillmagazine.com MODE/FASHION Rédactrice en chef mode/ Fashion Editor In Chief Elsa Vecchi evecchi@dresstokillmagazine.com Éditeur Mode / Fashion Director Fritz editeurmode@dresstokillmagazine.com Éditeur Mode / Fashion Director Cary Tauben cary@dresstokillmagazine.com Accessories Editor/ Éditeur Accessoires Salem Moussallam Stylists Guilia Marisili, NADIA PIZZIMENTI, Patrick Vimbor, YSO BEAUTÉ/BEAUTY Éditrice Beauté/Beauty Editor Eva Bilinska beauty@dresstokillmagazine.com Beauty contributors Nicolas Blanchet Art department Directeur de création/Creative Director Sylvain Blais Directrion artistique/Artistic Director Eva Bilinska, Sylvain Blais Graphic Artist Simon Léveillé RÉDACTION/WRITERS Stéphane Le Duc, Elsa Vecchi, Anthony DeCarli, Patrick Gervais, Laurence Levy, Mariame Moussaly, Tanya Miljevic, Bruno Morissette, Paul Larson, François Van Hoenacker, Tyler Parsons, René Villemure.
Traducteur/Translator Erin Secord Révision/Proofreader Marc-Antoine Bernier Stagiaire/INTERN Émmanuelle LarsEn
RELATIONS PUBLIQUES ET ÉVÉNEMENTS/ PR AND EVENTS Marlene Sendashonga marlene@dresstokillmagazine.com PUBLICITÉ / ADVERTISING Shervin Shirvani - US & National 514 573-6402 shervin@dresstokillmagazine.com Kathia Cambron - US & National 514-927-9008 ventes@dresstokillmagazine.com Sheldon M. Cooper - Toronto 647-832-1993 sheldon@dresstokillmagazine.com
DISTRIBUTION
Distribution by Rifmedia Shervin Shirvani shervin@dresstokillmagazine.com DISTRIBUTION EN KIOSQUE / NEWSTAND DISTRIBUTION Canada Coast To Coast 416-754-3900 Québec Messageries Dynamiques 450-663-9000 MARKETING
Kathia Cambron k@dresstokillmagazine.com Shervin Shirvani shervin@dresstokillmagazine.com
DRESS TO KILL MAGAZINE 5445 De Gaspé suite 304A, Montréal (Québec) Canada, H2T 3B2 , 514- 272-6187 IMPRIMÉ / PRINTED PAR/BY TRANSCONTINENTAL P.P. : 41883012 - ISSN 1923-0869 KILL - ISSN 1923-0877 Dress to KILL
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the killers
Shayne laverdière
RICHARD BERNARDIN
he loves the chrysler building. he loves films by kubrick, lynch & Won kar Wai and music by miles davis & lee morgan. he loves finely tailored suits, norman Jaffee houses, his gumdo practice, and building legos with his boys. richard bernardin is a romantic modernist. he loves Jane & the boys, sci-fi, red wine and café racers (in that order). richard bernardin never hates. for our spring issue he shot the cover, a beauty story and a fashion editorial.
lily & lilac
Are now regular contributors to Dress to Kill. Born and raised in Montreal, Lily & Lilac have a passion for pushing the envelope and portraying their subjects as strong and powerful figures. They have now moved to Toronto, bringing with them their love for photography and fashion. Could their fashion story “Double Vision” be a case of fashion imitating life?
Living in the wilderness for 14 months has changed “The boy turned Man”, he now knows how to catch wild Atlantic salmon with his teeth, kill a grizzly bear with his hands and climb to the top of a sequoia. Juggling forest and city leaves very little time for clients such as Spring Shoes or the New York Times. Currently Shayne is working on the next Xavier Dolan movie in Montreal but, at night, dreams of earth, wind and fire.
rené Villemure Esthéticien et chasseur de tendances. depuis ses études en philosophie il est à la recherche du beau, du bon et du Juste sous toutes ses formes. il a récemment publié un E-book intitulé « Qu’est-ce que la beauté? » www.chasseursdetendances.net
leslie-ann thomson In this issue, Leslie-Ann Thomson collaborated on two fashion stories: Room Service and High Society. Her work has appeared in such magazines as Nylon, Rolling Stone and the New York Times Style Magazine. She also maintains a varied celebrity clientele including Arcade Fire and Melissa Auf Der Maur.
PaUl larSon For our spring issue Paul talks about ORLAN, the artist and woman who challenges beauty. He also produces Art Express, the visual and performing arts program devoted to telling the life stories of creative individuals. Paul devotes his own life to an eternal search for The Source of inspiration. Art Express Wed. at 8pm/Sat. at 6:30pm on Mountain Lake PBS. www.mountainlake.org
mariame moussaly Writer and translator, Mariame has collaborated with Dress to Kill magazine since its very beginnings. A die-hard fashionista, long-time supporter of local designers and couture shoe addict, she is also a rock’n’roll enthusiast and a full-on Italophile. She views fashion as a pleasure and an expression of life.
Tyler G.Parsons “Live and let live.” Born and raised in the rural community of Murray Corner, New Brunswick, Tyler plans on putting his hometown on the map in the near future. He currently studies Fashion Marketing at Collège Lasalle in Montreal, and this true visionary, sets high goals for himself; revolutionizing fashion and ultimately the world are of his top priority.
anthony decarli Is a small town kid lost in the big bad city. When he’s not busy redeveloping neighbourhoods, he’s obsessing about movements in architecture, design, fashion, and urban culture. Devoutly Torontonian, Anthony also spends a significant amount of time in Montreal (where his husband happens to live… for now).
HUGO
HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677 www.hugoboss.com
EDITORIAL
‘‘Death and Beauty, see how these goddesses cast So much light and shade, a wise man might say They were sisters, both bountiful, frightful, vast, Guarding the same enigma and mystery.’’ -Victor Hugo Beauty has fascinated us for centuries. We try to find meaning and reason in it, but an answer doesn’t seem to exist. The enigma persists. What is more elusive than beauty? What is more ephemeral? Try to grab hold of it—impossible. André Gide is known to have said, “I never admire beauty more than when it does not know that it is beautiful.” It has a thousand faces, and yet we can recognize it instantly as it rounds the corner or walks past a table in a café. It fascinates poets, who try in vain to describe it, not to mention the artists who attempt to immortalize it in portraits, sculptors to freeze it in marble, and designers to envelop it in silk sheath dresses. In their brushes with perfection, they might find it, momentarily, but they can never fully capture its spirit. Because beauty won’t let itself be possessed. That’s why we are constantly searching for it. Sometimes, it becomes an obsession. Like Cervantes’ Don Quixote, who made it his personal quest: “I can only say in answer to what has been so courteously asked of me, that her name is Dulcinea, her country El Toboso, a village of La Mancha, her rank must be at least that of a princess, since she is my queen and lady, and her beauty superhuman, since all the impossible and fanciful attributes of beauty which the poets apply to their ladies are verified in her.”
When beauty escapes us, jealousy overtakes us, and we cruelly denounce it, like in that dark era when they burned witches, those women whose beauty could only be the work of the devil. But what would we do without beauty? What would our destiny be? A world without passion, without wonder? Only grey skies, no landscapes? We shouldn’t be jealous of the benefits beauty brings. As Cocteau said, “The privileges of beauty are enormous. It affects even those who have no experience of it.” Beauty is essential. It inspires us, it motivates us, it makes us quiver. Real or virtual, beauty has never been as multifaceted, as cosmopolitan or as fascinating as it is today. And that’s the face we wanted to give it in this spring issue of Dress to KILL. Here’s hoping the magazine will stir up as much emotion and wonder as beauty brings to our lives.
Stéphane Le Duc Editor in chief
HUGO
HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677 www.hugoboss.com
Marc Jacobs
HOT SUMMER tRENDS
The Marc Jacobs collection could be interpreted as a glowing tribute to the late 1970s of Sonia Rykiel and the beginnings of Kenzo, or to the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche years. Take a dip in the lake of nostalgia with a body-hugging beaded sheath dress, high-waisted flare-leg trousers, or a long, transparent tunic. A lovely, subtle new take on vintage.
S EVE NTIE S
Colour overload, poetic details, seventies nostalgia, minimalism... There are a few contradictory currents in the 2011 spring/ summer forecast, but overall, there is an optimistic wind sweeping through the fashion world. Break out the champagne! By Elsa Vecchi Pink Tartan
This year, summer comes in all shapes: elegant jumpsuits; long, flowing, asymmetrical dresses; highwaisted belted trousers; and short shorts, the last item to survive from previous seasons. Kimberley Newport-Mimran makes a bold statement with her use of flashy and intense colours, like hot pink, tangerine and electric purple. Retro, but not too retro.
Sonia Rykiel
This collection could be Marc Jacobs’ little sister, a girl who likes to slip into a pair of rosewood cotton trousers or overalls with large gold buttons, or dresses with trompel’oeil yokes. Her delicious silhouettes are particularly refreshing.
Céline
“Quiet elegance” perfectly sums up this collection by Phoebe Philo. Season after season, the designer thrills us with her simple, ultra-chic silhouettes and creates true marvels of simplicity, such as a loose-fitting blouse with djellaba-inspired neckline paired with a knee-length chick-yellow skirt, or a backless silk-woven blouse. Everything is perfectly fitted and precise. Delightful.
Balenciaga
A sleeveless biker jacket in blue snakeskin paired with a pair of glossy lace-effect jeans, miniskirts with men’s trouser pleating, boys’ shirts with metal stitching, finding inspiration in rockabilly, ska... and our boyfriends’ closets. Amen to that!
MINIMALISM 3.1 Phillip Lim : Joe Fresh
This is a brand that’s really living up to its name. Perfectly fitted white shirts tucked into ankle-length trousers or pretty A-line skirts. Nothing over-the-top, just the essentials.
TOMBOY Alexander Wang
In this collection dominated by shades of white (immaculate, off-white, beige), light, flowing, loosely worn trousers and jumpsuits take the lion’s share. Short jackets, both with and without sleeves, are worn over basic tops for a deliciously tomboyish look.
This American designer uses a soft palette of sand and powder shades and creams bordering on greys. His designs appear simple, but it’s only that—an appearance. Lim alters lines, decomposes shapes and shifts silhouettes with deliciously feminine results.
Paul Smith
In disorder: cigarette pants, masculine fabrics, prune and navy knits... wideleg trousers (this time) or printed muslin skirts: at Paul Smith, girls take on a boyish look while still remaining quite feminine, from every angle.
Jil Sander
A top with vertical black stripes set against transparent blocks, paired with a long skirt, also striped but this time horizontal and pinkon-white (or the other way around). An oversized dress with navy stripes worn very long. Or thick fuchsia stripes against comparatively sombre shades of blue...
Louis Vuitton
Animal prints seem almost life-sized when the entire animal is printed on the front and back of a pantsuit. Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton clearly had his tongue fully in cheek when designing this collection—much to our enjoyment.
stripes
Denis Gagnon
Our dearest designer might be the leader in this trend, with his spring/summer collection coming across as a research study on stripes. He’s worked them up and down, even wearing out the fabric down to the thread. The quintessence of fashion. Photos: lephotographiste.blogspot.com
PRINTS
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Seeing a skirt with wide, fruit-coloured stripes paired with a grey flannel sweatshirt, perched on glossy yellow wedges, and a jumpsuit in the same striping, we were quickly transported back a couple decades, where Marc Jacobs likes to take his trips back in time.
Alexander McQueen:
Sarah Burton, a long-time collaborator of Alexander McQueen, has brilliantly risen to the challenge with her first collection since the death of the master. Standouts include her concept dresses, like the corseted frock made of actual straw, trimmed with wheat, and her long dresses with cascading organdie flounced skirts... not to mention the sublime prints everywhere.
MODE
Par Elsa Vecchi
NEWS pesANT D’OR On adore de façon absolue les créa-
tions rock et racées de Tobias Wistisen, danois d’origine, aujourd’hui installé à Paris.Il a commencé sa carrière dans les ateliers haute couture de la maison Dior,avant de se jeter à corps perdu dans la création de pièces uniques toutes faites à la main. Un vrai travail d’orfèvre. Chez Philippe Dubuc www.dubucstyle.com
pALLADIUM
De la marque Palladium… il s’agit du prochain hit annoncé du printemps : la nouvelle botte LITE version classique « Baggy » qui pèse moins de 285g. Finalement peu importe son poids, on adore son look. En attendant de pouvoir y glisser nos délicates extrémités, on se réjouit du tournant très tendance que l’entreprise lyonnaise a pris, elle qui, en 1920 fabriquait des pneus d’avion en caoutchouc vulcanisé doublé de toile solide pour l’industrie aéronautique naissante. Ah la mode, quelle incroyable histoire. www.palladiumboots.com
SSENSE :
c’est insensé ! Philippe Dubuc pour Simons La toute nouvelle boutique Ssense a de quoi nous faire tourner la tête. En entrant, on ne pourra pas s’empêcher de flâner entre robes Lanvin, Balmain, YSL, Jil Sander… et autres accessoires de rêve, puis nos pas nous guideront au sous-sol. C’est ici qu’on trouvera quelques pièces de la marque Topshop, vendue en exclusivité à Montréal, comme ces miniblousons et jeans zippés crées par Kate Moss. La sélection y est tout à fait réjouissante, bien plus que les prix, qui ont sérieusement grimpé en traversant l’Atlantique. On remontera à l’étage se griser de cet air “très couture”. Boutique SSENSE : 90 rue SaintPaul Ouest,514-289-1906 www.ssense.com
Philippe Dubuc et le photographe Martin Rondeau ont fait débuter celle qui est aujourd’hui l’une des top modèles les plus demandées au monde. Irina ne l’a pas oublié et redevient, le temps d’un shooting, la muse du designer québécois pour sa mini capsule pour Simons. C’est la deuxième du genre qui sera en magasin à la fin du mois mars. Un exemple de sobriété chic, à la confection impeccable et, encore plus aboutie que la précédente. On y trouve des robes tuniques dont une en soie parachute bleu électrique, un t.shirt ample en jersey double face agencé a un organza de polyamide, une veste en néoprène double face et aux coutures en bords à vif , bref, “une collection rock et parfaitement réussie, très Philippe Dubuc” résume la Top Modèle ravie. Très beau moment de mode. www.simons.ca
www.chimento.it
192 st-zotique E st Montreal TEL. 514-279-5585
NOBLESSE Collection
style
new retro La mode classique, le nouveau retro chic! Symbolisée par l’épuration de ses formes à la fois droites et cintrées, qui se confrontent aux robes volantes et distinguées ajustées en haut des hanches.Alliance parfaite entre symétries rustiques et courbes délicates photographie Sylvain Blais stylisme Kathia Cambron
Samuel : Lunettes TOM FORD 415$ chez Antoine Laoun. Complet en laine TIGER OF SWEDEN 749$. Chemise en coton TIGER OF SWEDEN 149$. Cravate en soie TIGER OF SWEDEN 109$. Ceinture de suède TIGER OF SWEDEN 129$. Florence : Robe en soie HALSTON 425$ chez La Baie. Sautoir VAN CLEF & ARPELS 13,200$ chez Birks. Sac en cuir LANCEL 765$ chez Ogilvy.
Cette page, Charlotte : Robe avec drapé à l’épaule et ceinture BCBG MAXAZRIA 358$. Minaudière avec paillette BCBG MAXAZRIA 64$. Bague en or jaune avec pierres précieuses BIRKS. Florence : Lunettes JOHN GALIANO 455$ chez Antoine Laoun. Robe en soie Dalvera HUGO BOSS 1,150$. Collier en or jaune avec pierres précieuses Birks. Bacelet en or jaune et pierres précieuses Birks. Page de gauche, Robe Halston 495$ chez La Baie. Bracelet en or jaune 18 carats avec pierres de couleurs Vianna 3,990$ chez Birks. Boucles d’oreilles en or jaune 18 carats avec pierres de couleurs Vianna 2,850$ chez Birks. Sac en paillete BCBG 68$.
Florence : Boucles d’oreilles en or jaune avec pierres précieuses Birks. Collier en or jaune Birks. Haut avec volume à la manche HUGO BOSS 285$. Bracelet MARC by MARC JACOBS 95$ chez Ogilvy. Charlotte : Imperméable trois quart avec ganses aux poignets et boutons dorés HUGO BOSS 765$.
Cette page : Sautoir VAN CLEF & ARPELS 13,200$ chez Birks. Robe en soie avec manches fendues HALSTON 450$ chez La Baie. Ceinture fine en cuir TIGER OF SWEDEN 109$. Bas collant à motif de dentelle VOILÀ. Sac en cuir MARC JACOBS 395$ chez Ogilvy. Page de droite : Chemise en coton avec cravate en soie TIGER OF SWEDEN 149$ et 99$. Cardigan en soie, veston en laine et pantalon TIGER OF SWEDEN 149$, 549$ et 189$. Retouche Panchromatic. Mise en beauté Julie Saint Laurent chez Next. Coiffure Braydon Nelson chez Orbite Salon avec les produits Shu Uemura. Modèles Charlotte et Samuel chez Folio et Florence chez Next.
ACCESSORIES
upside down Color is back for spring, put some kick into your step with accessories that pop. photography Joseph Saraceno styling Salem Moussallam
sunglasses puCCi 499$ at eyes on Church Optical. Maniac pumps BRiAN ATWOOd 875$ at The Room. Velvet and perspex sandals CHARLOTTe OLYMpiA 1,325$ at The Room. Multicolour necklace NOiR 120$ at Remix. Lego jacket esCAdA 4,055$. snakeskin clutch esCAdA 1,135$. Faceguard sunglasses KTZ 400$ at spectacle. plastic bracelet MARC JACOBs & MARipOL 65$ at Remix.
JEWELRY COLLECTION BIJOUTERIE ITALIENNE • 192 RUE STE ZOTIQUE EST, MONTRÉAL • (514) 279 5585 LES BIJOUTERIES GALAZZO • 6815 ROUTE TRANSCANADIENNE J12, POINTE CLAIRE • (514) 693 0756 LES BIJOUTERIES GALAZZO • 401 BOULEVARD LABELLE, ROSEMÈRE • (450) 437 5097 OGILVY • 1307 RUE STE CATHERINE OUEST, MONTRÉAL • (514) 842 7711
Ties DRAKES LONDON 155$/each at Harry Rosen. Light sapphire loafers TOD’S 475$ at Harry Rosen. Patent leather belt SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 275$ at Holt Renfrew. Shirt RALPH LAUREN 475$ at Harry Rosen. Leather belt HERMES 795$. Purple loafers BOSS BY HUGO BOSS 325$ at Browns.
Koi sandals ESCADA 705$. Lucite bracelet ODILE 30$ at Thieves. Dolores pumps CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA 675$ at REmix. Plastic ring MARC JACOBS & MARIPOL 40$ at REmix. Oil wash handbag BCBG MAXAZRIA 85$. Zip Around Continental wallet MICHAEL KORS 150$. Nicefit sandals NINE WEST 130$. Power skirt BCBG MAXAZRIA 200$. Avant-Garde Pochette LOUIS VUITTON 3,060$.
Wallet ETRO 325$ at Harry Rosen. High top sneakers D&G 450$ at Harry Rosen. Sunglasses CARRERA 135$ at Eyes on Church Optical. Neon green belt MARC JACOBS 120$ at REmix. Canvas sneakers BOSS ORANGE 150$ at Browns. Bowtie AMERICAN APPAREL 18$. Yellow belt CLUB MONACO 25$.
1130 de Maisonveune Ouest Montreal
brA SIMONE PÉRÈLE 120$. mIcro-INJEcTED coLLAgEN™ coLor SHINE IN bocA bAbE LIPFUSION™ $38 AT SEPHorA.
cATANIA PrINT SANDAL LOUIS VUITTON 855$. DArLINg SuNgLASSES BARTON PERREIRA BY CHLOE SEVIGNY 355$ AT SPEcTAcLE
WHItE HOT
NoEmIA, moTHEr oF PEArL DIAL wITH DIAmoNDS, STAINLESS STEEL, LEATHEr STrAP, RAYMOND WEIL 2 695$.
SAPPHIrE AND DIAmoND EArrINgS 8 380$ MARK LASH.
PANDORA comPoSE coLLEcTIoN, 14k goLD wITH wATErmELoN PEArL DroPS, $475
BARDOT BAG BY LANCEL
QuArTZ AND DIAmoND roSE goLD EArrINgS - $8,380 MARK LASH
bArDoT bAg IN ALcANTArA 1 495$ AT ogILVY
mAHINA LEATHEr cIrruS, IN LIN, LOUIS VUITTON 3 300 $.
wATcH coLLEcTIoN SoIréE, bY LADY HEART 1 859$ AT bIrkS. FLowEr rINg BACCARAT 595$.
STrAPPED SANDAL DIESEL 195$. PrINTED booTIE MISS SIXTY 169$. SuNgLASSES CUTLER & GROSS 525$ AT SPEcTAcLE.
1130 de Maisonveune Ouest Montreal
SuNgLASSES DIESEL wATcH: DIESEL. DoN gIoVANNI, mEcHANIcAL wITH AuTomATIc wINDINgS, JumPINg DIAL wATcH, ALLIgATor STrAP AND STAINLESS STEEL cASE, RAYMOND WEIL 3 950$
THE VAIo速 Eb SErIES AT SONY STYLE.cA 899.99$
SHoES ENERGIE 79$. SuNgLASSES CUTLER & GROSS AT SPEcTAcLE 530$. LImITED EDITIoN MARC JACOBS curAcAo 300mL 85$ HoLT rENFrEw, SEPHorA AND murALE.
DSQUARED2
SPRING-SUMMER 2011
urBAn DAnDY
bLAck rubbEr AND STErLINg SILVEr brAcELET DAVID YURMAN AT HoLT rENFrEw. cHroNomAT 01 LImITED EDITIoN wATcH BREITLING AT LA SwISS.
JAckET GANT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN 598$ AT HArrY roSEN. LOUIS VUITON cITY guIDE NYc 2011 34$. STuDDED SNEAkErS, JOHN VARVATOS FOR CONVERSE 190$.
FASHION
H
ailing from Portugal and recently appointed artistic director at Lacoste in Paris, the talented young fashion designer has dared once again to surprise us, using his masterful touch to impart his minimalist and contemporary style. The art of “neo-perfection” has arrived! London was Baptista’s destination of choice to study fashion and design. He then went to Paris in 1998, and in 2002, he won the top prize at the international festival for young designers in Hyères, also winning himself some renown and confirming his desire to continue his work on the fashion scene. Having chosen Paris to launch his own brand, Baptista has always remained consistent and honest whim himself, without really worrying about the competition. “If a piece is going to have an effect, it will,” he says serenely. He adds, “You have to take things slowly, step by step, all the while keeping your feet on the ground, even with all the awards and success.” Baptista is a romantic. He loves architecture and the baroque style of the 30s, which he admires for its simplicity and “democratic” design, as he likes to call it. He loves his country, Portugal, which inspires him and through which he relives his memories, which were moulded by his culture and the contrasts in its architecture, which is both sober and ornate.
Variable
GEOMÉTRY When architecture lends inspiration to fashion, it’s to showcase one of the biggest names in design of the past few months,Felipe Oliveira Baptista. By Tanya Miljevic
As an architect of fabric and colour, he is fascinated by geometric shapes: he tames them, transforms them and sublimates them. An expert in polymorphism, his art is in constant movement. Each of his collections tells a story, the creative inspiration for which he draws from his love of structures, shapes and volumes. He starts with old models of garments and building blocks, which he assembles, redefines and models in 3D, using a computer, before finally giving life to a piece of clothing. His garments look to be striving for understatement and clean lines, but they are still very graphic and geometric. He enjoys revisiting classics but can’t stop changing styles, each time rewriting the book and reinventing himself. For his last few shows, he “studied” army jackets from the 1950s, which he customized using his modern techniques, replacing the cotton button tabs with leather ones. His sources of inspiration are pinned up on a wall in his design workshop. “This wall is a way to visually transcribe my thoughts and make the team understand what story I want to tell with my collection,” explains Baptista. Ideas are pinned up and taken down, as if to better connect, reveal themselves, exist. One of his inspirations is the calm and tranquility of his trips to Morocco, the colours
and vast stretches of its deserts. Others include books, magazines and pieces of art, such as those by Tatiana Trouvé, whose colour blocks and superimposed fabrics inspired his embroidery pieces, in leather and satin, affixed with hot glue. The leggings featured in his shows, with their heat-sealed leather patches, are perfect examples. The relationship to the body is always present in Baptista’s work, and it came about quite naturally that his spring collection was inspired by dance. Old documentaries about Pina Baush, the renowned German choreographer, were a strong influence on his creative research. Baptista is also inspired by Frank Gehry, whose architecture he qualifies with the word “carapace.” It’s a style that is, fundamentally, geometry and openings, something that can be seen in his last collection. “Architecture is beautiful and takes clothing to another level,” says the designer. Today, what stimulates Baptista’s creativity, his innovation and his quest for perfection is seeing in people’s eyes the desire to wear his pieces, so that they can have a life as more than collection pieces. Along these same lines, he dreams of one day being able to open his own boutique. But for the time being, the talented designer, who excels at manipulating shapes and redefining perfect structures, will have to be content breathing a bit of neo-modernism into Lacoste, and a bit of new life into France’s most recognized crocodile. www.felipeoliveirabaptista.com www.lacoste.com
DRESS TO
BeAUtY
GLAM
Is MORE photography richard Bernardin hair & makeup nicolas Blanchet styling Patrick Vimbor
single Eyeshadows in Grenadine and in new York nArs. ultra rich Black Eye Pencil noIr. ultra-smooth High Impact Eyeshadow in 616 Goldenspotlight DIor. Matte Eyeshadow in Lime M.A.c. rouge Artist Intense lipstick in nº 40 MAKE uP For EVEr. Lipgloss in Moon Fleet nArs. Juicy tubes smoothie in cherry Burst LAncôME. Versatile styling cream tasai cream sHu uEMurA. necklace AGAtHA. trench IrFé.
Limited edition Duo Eyeshadow in Nouveau Monde Nars. Eye Kohl pencil in Rosemary Thyme M.A.C. Limited edition Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Hollywoodland Nars. Viva Glam Gaga 2 lipstick and Lipglass M.A.C. Dress and necklace BCBG MAXAZRIA. Pouf LUXE RENTALS.
Free Pigment in Blue Brown M.A.C. Color Design in Backstage Pass Lancôme. Lipstick in Laverder Whip M.A.C. Bronzing powder in Laguna Nars. Nail polish in Soirée M.A.C. Velvet Shine Powder Shine Duster Osis+. Necklace BCBG MAXAZRIA. Top club Monaco. Hair & makeup, Nicolas Blanchet at Folio. Model, Katrina L. at Next. Photo assistant, Julien Barbès. Production, R14. Retouching, Sublim.
COLOUR
FLASH
POP colors
: Texas Sherbet collection in Y’all Come Back Ya Hear 10,95$ O·P·I, selected salons. Rouge Coco Shine in Sari D’eau 39 $ Chanel. Velvet Touch Lipstick in Shocking Coral 17$ Gosh. Eyeshadow in Lime 17,50$ M·A·C. Super pigmented matte eyeshadows/blush in shades Nº 75,5,92,2; 22$/each Make Up For Ever. In Bloom Cream Cheek Duo 30$ Smashbox. Nail polish in Lavender 16$ Lancôme. Daisy Eau So Fresh 75ml Glam’Eyes for 85$ Marc Jacobs. Shadow Trio Palettes in Fever 7,49$ Rimmel. Super light Blush Gelée limited edition in Candide Pink 36$ Givenchy at Sephora. Soft pastel colors from CustomEyes in Party Pops 11,95$ Revlon.
Pastels
www.chanel.ca
©CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL ®
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BEAUty nicolas Degennes has been the artistic director for makeup and colours at the house of Givenchy since 1999. he is a genius creator whose talent is knowing how to showcase the strength, sensitivity and energy of the women he works with. Through his passion for makeup, he has rubbed shoulders with some of the most beautiful women on the planet. By stéphane Le Duc
a
mazingly for a Frenchman, who calls paris his adoptive home, it was in the us that Degennes picked up the trade of makeup artist. Always on the hunt for new thrills and experiences, today he’s more than happy to be operating with carte blanche. Nicolas Degennes: From very early on, makeup was a big part of my life. but it wasn’t until a chance meeting with a makeup artist in new york that, for the first time, my eyes were opened to the possibility of a career in a field that wasn’t really conventional for a man. A career where i could work alongside women, whom i’m more comfortable with than men. Stéphane Le Duc: What made you want to pursue it, to make a career out of it? ND: it was the people i met. For example, i was lucky enough to meet mylène Farmer at a time when no one knew who she was. she was working on her video for “libertine” at the time. it’s also the fact of being able to disguise people. i spent my childhood disguising myself. it was important to me, to be able to channel all my desires and all my energy into making people up. All of that is what hooked me. SL: How do you develop a relationship with the people whose makeup you do? ND: it depends on where and when you are; you don’t talk about the same things every time. it depends, if i’m with Jeanne moreau, Fanny Ardant or liv tyler : the relationship isn’t the same. when you go into a photography studio, you have a story to tell. your line of work is transformation. in a way, you’re the director and you are creating a character. you have to take initiative. the other aspect is that you are there to listen, when you do events. Above all, the job is one of trust. SL: You’ve had such a beautiful partnership with Givenchy, which has lasted for more than 10 years. You’re given a lot of freedom. ND: what is amazing about this whole adventure is that, in the beginning, i had no idea what would be asked of me. what shocked me is that i was asked to work on a
carte Blanche : NICOLAS DEGENNES
line that i didn’t like, whose connection with the brand i didn’t understand. what was amazing is that they agreed to take things in the direction i wanted to go, and the result is the line that is known today all over the world. it’s true that after creating more than 6,700 colours, i do have freedom. they trust me. SL: In your worst nightmares, have you ever dreamed of a world without makeup? that would be my worst nightmare. As it is, i don’t think there’s enough. i don’t see enough colour around me. particularly in paris, which is an extremely grey city. that’s why i love travelling to the us and to Asia, especially in Japan, where there is a real tradition of makeup, particularly surrounding colour. SL: Is art a source of inspiration for you? ND: On a daily basis! For instance, i love the work that Zilon sonic, from montreal, is doing. he is someone who knows how to scream. when i watch him work on a drawing, i can hear him scream. i love his audacity and his spontaneity. i love the energy that painters give off. it gives you strength. SL: What is beauty to you? ND: i would really love for it to be universal. it’s difficult, because beauty is so rare, when it should be commonplace. but it’s work. An encounter with yourself, with the energy that you want to have and to give. beauty doesn’t have a face, but it damn well has energy.
VoluMe
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beautÉ thann
NEWS
BeAutÉ nAtuRelle
pour se dénuder tout en beauté ce printemps, la gamme thann propose des soins hydratants réparateurs conçus pour les changements de saisons. tout récemment distribués au Canada, ces produits haut de gamme sont basés sur le bien être, l’équilibre et les vertus des plantes médicinales asiatiques. thann vous propose une ligne complète de soins pour le visage, le corps, l’aromathérapie, des masques capillaires, des bains moussants et des coffrets cadeau. en harmonie avec la nature, tous les produits sont sans parabène, colorants ou fragrances et conviennent à tous les types de peaux, même les plus sensibles. www.thann.ca
l’idÉAl
Masculin
BELLES
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Bagues Gucci vintage et bracelets vintage. Colliers Gucci et Moschino. Sandales à talons hauts Miu Miu. Styliste, Raphael Estrella Dunn. Mise en beauté, Nicolas Guzman. Assistant photographe, Guillaume Pelletier. Modèle, Charlie Paille chez Dulcedo.
beautY
Law of desire D
o you find someone beautiful because you love them, or because they’re truly beautiful? Voltaire said that, to a toad, beauty is large round eyes and a small, flat snout. Others have said that the same reasoning could be applied to flowers, for which beauty serves no other purpose than to attract pollinators. According to these philosophers, flowers are only beautiful, unknowingly, in order to appeal to bumblebees. Appealing to bumblebees… Although its criteria are fleeting and ever-changing over time, beauty has always been at the centre of social life. It has always served as a catalyst in relationships, both personal and professional. It is said that it is easier to like a “beautiful” person. Like butterflies seek out light, we all
By René Villemure Aesthetician and trend hunter photo / artwork Martin Rondeau
catch these stars, make them our own, make them burst and multiply. The desire for stars is the desire that burns in someone’s eyes and makes them shine. Stars are specks that shine in the night. Lower your eyes — there appears Eros, the god of longing love Compared with other gods, Eros is frugal. He wants only one thing: to fill the existential emptiness causing him such great sadness. He has been heartbroken ever since Zeus, in a fit of awesome rage, divided all human-beings in two. Since then, Eros has been searching for his other half. He is not searching for friendship love, or brotherly love; he is only trying to survive by filling the void left by the loss of his other half. Eros is lonely and wants only to stop being so. Satis-
We all seek out beauty, we are all searching for something to love. It’s visceral. seek out beauty; we are all searching for something to love. It’s visceral. Some people seek out physical beauty, others beauty of the heart or spirit. The criteria for what is beautiful aren’t even up for debate. In the end, everyone searches for what attracts them; beauty is simply that which appeals to us. Although beauty comes in different forms, when it comes to sexuality, it isn’t beauty of the heart or spirit that attracts us. It’s physical beauty, beauty of the flesh. In his great wisdom, French author San-Antonio put it quite well: Ideally, we are all searching for the love of our hearts, but it is also important to find the love of our loins. It would be difficult to come up with a better description of the link between beauty and sexuality. The former leads to the latter, and the road between them is the road of desire. This is the foundation of seduction, the essential link between the concept and the thing, between thought and action, the mind and the body. Look up The word desire comes from the Latin desiderare, which includes the privative particle de (indicating a lack of something) and sideral, which leads us to stellar and then star. So based on a literal interpretation, someone who desires something is “lacking stars.” Essentially, any kind of desire is a longing for stars, whether in the sky or in the eyes of the person being lusted after. Through desire, we hope to
faction and culmination are his way of life. He must search. It is a matter of survival. Beauty guides him on his journey. A simple god, we say, Eros believes only in passion and hate. Unrelentingly, he attempts to fill the void by fusing bodies together; if he is unable to do so, he calls on his cousin, Thanatos, to kill the object of his desire. That is all. For Eros, beauty is sexuality; beauty heralds possession, and possession is becoming one’s self again. We all have a part of Eros in us. We all want to fill the same void, and to do so, we follow the path of desire, towards beauty, which leads us to sexuality and satisfaction. That’s why in every star-gazer’s dream there is always the hope that they can stop staring at the stars and one day feel their heat. We always want what we don’t have. That’s the sadness of desire. That’s why, like Eros, we are intent on filling this void. At any cost. When we see beauty, we can contemplate our hope, turn it into something real, and rid ourselves of our longing. For some, beauty is in the heart, or the spirit, or, as for Eros, the flesh. We all want to soar toward the stars so we can touch beauty, and by association, become beautiful. Beautiful like a god. Like Eros. Let’s close our eyes. www.chasseursdetendances.net
HAIR
Be curly, Aveda. A prep for curly or wavy hair. Moisturizes curls and helps prevent frizz. For more oomph use with the Be Curly Enhancer. Aveda Salons 26,50$. Shu Uemura, Liquid Fabric A light formula that defines, moisturizes and protects from heat. Great on medium bouncy curls. Leaves hair with a natural yet polished look. Salon only 40$. OSiS+, Curl Me Soft A styling cream that defines frizzy and tightly curled hair, gives soft controled styling and bounce. Salon only 19,50$. Moroccanoil, Styling Mousse Great for fine hair, a lightweight mousse with a touch of the famous Moroccanoil oil to style your curls with zero crunch. For medium to tight curls. Salon only 25$. Ouidad, Botanical Boost After shampoo or during the day moisturizes and reduces frizz. Between shampoos to refresh curls, hydrate and reactivate styling products. Sephora 16,80$. Kevin Murphy, Easy Rider Made from natural and naturally derived ingredients this styling pommade helps to control curls and reduce frizz. Salon only 20$. more on curly hair care: Ouidad.com Naturallycurly.com
Maybe it’s the lack of time for blow-outs or simply because more women are embracing their natural locks or,maybe, there have never been so many products to style and manage curls.
Wave
RIder
PROFILE
new guard Who said being a model was only about looking hot and sexy? 6 new fresh faces seize the moment with their unconventional good looks, wearing Canadian designers. photography Martin laporte editing & styling Cary Tauben
- Folio Yan Wears Six Scents series 3 by Rad Hourani How did you get discovered? A friend that works in fashion pushed me to try it out. You recently did a video for Rad Hourani? It was a great experience but hard at the same time; I’ve never walked in heels before. Describe your style in one word. Grunge. Tell me something totally random. I hate cars. If you could meet anyone dead or alive who would it be? Kurt Cobain. Worst thing about being a model? Overheating in clothes. Favorite junk food? Pizza. What would be your ultimate booking? Dior Homme. Favorite Canadian designer? Rad Hourani.
Gabrielle L - Next Wearing Tavan & Mito How did you get discovered? I was scouted on the street. Describe your style in one word. Retro. Tell me something totally random. I’m scared of elevators. Favorite quote? Don’t be pushed by your problems, be lead by your dreams. If I looked in your purse, what would I find? A water bottle, lip balm and a toothbrush. Favorite thing about being a model? Getting to be a different style every shoot. Worst thing about being a model? Hair teasing – ouch! What would be the ultimate booking for you? Burberry camapaign. Favourite Canadian designer? Jeremy Laing.
- Dulcedo Eryck Wears Samuel Mercure How did you get discovered? At school, by an another model that was with Dulcedo. Describe your style in 3 words? Nice, clean, swagger. If you could meet anyone dead or alive who would it be? Michael Jackson and Adrianna Lima. Worst thing about being a model? Being away from the ones I love. What would be the ultimate booking for you? Armani perfume campaign. You’ve walked for some amazing designers would you mind sharing some? I walked for Rad Hourani, Marc Jacobs, Hermes, Thierry Mugler and Ezra Constantine. Favorite designer? Tom Ford. Favorite Canadian Designer? Dsquared2.
- Folio. Charlotte Wears Thomas How did you get into modeling? I went to an open call casting and got signed. Describe your style in one word. Simple. Tell me something totally random: I own more than 20 Barbie dolls. If you could meet anyone dead or alive who would it be? Marilyn Monroe. Funny quote? You deserve the best but I’m not available. If I looked in your purse what would I find? Schoolbooks and my portfolio. Favourite thing about being a model? Meeting awesome people. Favourite junk food? A Smarties McFlurry. What would be the ultimate booking for you? Vogue. Favourite Canadian designer? Denis Gagnon.
- Montage Laurence Wearing BarilĂ How did you get discovered? Model Scout. If you could meet anyone dead or alive who would it be? Princess Diana. If I looked in your purse what would I find? A big wallet. Favourite thing about being a model? Creativity. Worst thing about being a model? Criticism. What would be the ultimate booking for you? Victoria Secret. Favourite Canadian Designer? BarilĂ .
- Montage Sokol Wearing Philippe Dubuc How did you get discovered? I was scouted at school. Describe your style in one word? Casual. Saying you live by? You live only once. Favourite thing about being a model? Traveling. Worst thing about being a model? Dieting. Favourite junk food? Hamburgers. Favourite Canadian designer? Philippe Dubuc. Photo Assistant, Mathieu Fortin. Retouching, Isabelle Lepage. Hair, Braydon Nelson. Makeup, Maina Militza at Satellite
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M o n t r é a l
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w w w . d u b u c s t y l e . c o M
DESIGN
Rotating Shade Pendant Light
Spike Chandelier. left: Double Socketed Pendant Light
You only live twice Single Seat Bench with Back
Having recently moved from trendy Queen West to expand in a more quiet location on Dupont Street in midtown Toronto,Commute Home is still the buzz of the Toronto design scene.
T
he principal team of designers Hamid Samad and Sara Parisotto transform reclaimed materials to create unique custom manufactured furniture and lighting installations. Everyday items passed their prime, lost or forgotten by time are given a second life as unique pieces of art. Nostalgia, nature and understated design unify the creations of the duo. The twelve year old brand proves that natural products, recycled materials and industrial rawness are more than a fleeting trend and are here to stay. As customers are becoming more conscious about responsible consumerism, Commute Home provides products with answers to our questions as to the creative process. Commute Home’s creations are made in their studio by the designers mostly with recycled local materials. What permeates through the designs of Commute Home is the concept of bringing a second life and beauty to raw materials whose first roles were often only functional. Beams are transformed into tables, panes into flooring or beds. Commute Home is known for it lighting fixtures, especially its filament bulb structures with exposed bulbs. The insectlike pieces are reminiscent of the Edison light bulb, emphasizing the beauty of the physics behind lighting by leaving the light structure exposed rather than hiding its intricacies.
By Patrick Gervais
Lighting fixtures of Commute Home grace the ceilings of Toronto hotspots Nyood, Cinq 01 and Colbourn Lane, to name a few. Wood, as a recycled material, is also central to Commute Home’s designs. Commute Home creates unique minimalist bed frames, bookshelves and tables where the intricacies of each wood panel is emphasized. Wooden objects become bold yet understated pieces reminding the viewer of their age and prior use. The team also partners with industry to create unique interior spaces. The result of Commute Home’s interior design is an intimate, soulful place adapted to each unique space. One of the duo’s flagship project is Nyood, a Toronto restaurant. The team reclaimed old telephone poles to create a forest like division in the restaurant. Details include hand written words and staples on the wall to buttress the illusion that the wall is made of birch bark. Amid growing international acclaim, the team is now settled in its new location and working on partnerships and experimenting with new techniques including porcelain wall treatment. Commute Home’s influence can only continue to grow in sync witn Toronto’s increasing design awareness. www.commutehome.com
EXPERIENCE
W MONTRÉAL. AN EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE / A CELEBRATION OF DESIGN.
901 SQUARE VICTORIA MONTRÉAL QUÉBEC H2Z 1R1
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ART
FACE
VALUE
ORLAN creates her body of
work, and transforms her own body,to question our notions of beauty. Is there nothing she won’t do for her art? She has cheek implants, not where you would expect to see them, but on either side of her forehead. By Paul Larson
above: “Refiguration, African Self-Hybridization” series 2002. Below: “Dress Without Body”, resin gilded with 22 carat gold leaf 2009.
B
eauty is a word that allows us to humiliate every woman who doesn’t have a certain type of body”, says the French born self-proclaimed neo-feminist, post-feminist and alter-feminist artist. Since the 1960s, when she photographed herself nude in yoga positions and giving birth to a mannequin, ORLAN has questioned the status of the body in society. Her artistic focus has been “the female body, through social, political and religious pressures that impress themselves on feminine flesh”. “My work questions the dominant standards of beauty in society, that of models who are supposed to possess a beauty that is admired and desired for our own bodies.” ORLAN’s work favours alternative images of beauty, “not the beauty that is unattainable for women, in most cases, except for a very short period of their lives, because beauty is often likened to youth”. In her early career she created a body sculpture series celebrating mutant forms. ‘Shiva’, named after the Hindu deity, may hide her face from the viewer, but displays five arms for all to see.“It’s a multiplication of beauty”. Whether she is creating sculptures, photographs or performance art, ORLAN’s own body takes center stage in her work. Her marble bust in the guise of the Madonna questions dominant religious traditions, and expands on the Baroque notion that sacred ecstasy can lead to sexual sensations. While reflecting on the 1652 sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini of a mystic in the throes of divine passion,
Left: Brushes Luminous version 1, Bump Load series, 2009. Above: Body-Sculpture n°3 “Shiva, or Many-Armed Tentacles”, 1964.
ORLAN observed: “the Baroque shows Saint Teresa feeling ecstasy and erotic pleasure from the angel’s arrow. This contradicts the Christian religion that asks us to choose either good or evil. The Baroque shows us good and evil in the same image.” ORLAN’s Madonna smiles with abandon, shamelessly bearing a supple breast. Looking at the piece from 1978, the artist finds great beauty in the “quality of the drapery, the shadow and light in the marble from Carrara.” She takes pride in knowing her marble came from the same Tuscan city where Bernini would often get his stone. The bust of Mary is a self portrait of ORLAN, Saint ORLAN, to be exact. The artist has renamed herself a few times, describing her identity as “nomadic, mutant, shifting, and differing.” Her shifting identity does not confine itself to names. She has altered her face for the sake of art as well. To further scrutinize the ideals of female beauty in western culture, ORLAN participated in bloody pieces of performance art that transformed her face into a canvas. Several plastic surgeries, captured with video cameras, gave her a chin inspired by Botticelli’s Venus, and the lips of Francois Boucher’s Europa. It wasn’t Mona Lisa’s smile ORLAN wanted, but her protruding brow ridge. On her forehead, the surgeon injected implants usually reserved for enhancing the cheekbones. To appear more ravishing was not the motivation. ORLAN said her surgical art attacked conventional notions of female beauty and the male patriarchy that exploits it. By piecing together a face inspired by famous paintings, “I wanted to change the image, to make new images.” ORLAN’s current work still alters her face, but instead of using surgical tools, she’s using digital photography. Her self-hybridization series morphs images of masks and women from other cultures with ORLAN’s visage. The artist, stating that the ideals of beauty change “from one time period to the next” and from one culture to the next, has
“Le Drapé-Le Baroque” marble bust of ORLAN as Saint ORLAN,1978
decided to “mix the differences in order to accept them.” To ORLAN an image of her face merged with that of an Ethiopian wearing a lip plug is the embodiment of a proud and confident woman. “She is attractive because in her society, labrets are not instruments of torture but instruments of seduction.” Whether you find ORLAN’s work attractive or not does not matter to the artist. “We do not need beauty, but we do need art, another vision of the world,” she said. Through her work and her appearance, it is clear ORLAN is surrendering herself to the art she needs. You may learn more about ORLAN at her website: www. orlan.net. See Paul on Art Express, Wednesdays at 8pm on Mountain Lake PBS.
danse
Searching for Home danseurs : Ballet Wiesbaden photo : Martin Kaufhold
Stephan ouThoss l’art de chorégraphier la beauté
L’univers de la danse entretient une relation unique et profondément intimiste avec la beauté, où les corps se meuvent pour mieux émouvoir. Par François Van Hoenacker Entretien avec le chorégraphe allemand Stephan Thoss, afin de saisir la nature intrinsèque de la beauté et le rôle qu’elle occupe dans l’hémisphère artistique de la danse classique et du ballet. François Van Hoenacker : En tant que chorégraphe, sauriez-vous expliquer ce qui rend les danseurs si beaux, si élégants, tant durant leur performance qu’à l’extérieur de la scène ? Stephan Thoss : Je crois que les danseurs savent utiliser et mouvoir leurs corps avec une maîtrise plus que parfaite. Ils parlent et s’expriment par l’entremise de leurs corps, et c’est précisément cette capacité de s’extérioriser qui, je crois, les rend si beaux. FHV : On aura (sans doute) déjà prétendu que la danse est une quête infinie, sinon quasi-obsessive de la beauté et la perfection. Êtes-vous en accord avec une telle opinion ? ST : Selon moi, la beauté corporelle est au final très limitée en ce qu’elle ne demeure qu’un concept qui ne saurait ni transcender, ni aller plus loin que la surface de la peau. Dans mon travail, si je poursuis une quête infinie, c’est celle de trouver l’honnêteté et la vulnérabilité inhérentes à chacun des danseurs. FHV : Quelle serait une définition juste de la beauté, dans l’univers de la danse ? ST : Un être qui sait être en contact avec son soi intérieur. Selon moi par exemple, un danseur performant avec les limites d’un handicap est excessivement beau, émouvant.
FHV : La danse classique et le ballet connaissent-ils avec les années des attentes de plus en plus élevées face à la beauté et à la perfection à l’égard de ses interprètes ? ST : Certaines compagnies ont tendance à présenter et à exiger des danseurs une technique irréprochable. D’autres mettront davantage l’emphase sur la performance de ses danseurs. Je préfère pour ma part m’entourer et créer pour des artistes qui auront avant toute chose une personnalité qui saura être à la fois belle, pleine et entière. FHV : La beauté est-elle une caractéristique avec laquelle un danseur naît, ou est-elle plutôt comme la technique, qui saura se travailler avec le temps ? ST : La grâce naturelle est un don, alors que la beauté, elle, peut être atteinte. FHV : La beauté en danse peut-elle être cruelle à l’égard de ses danseurs vieillissant ? Ou évolue-t-elle plutôt sous une forme distincte avec les années ? ST : Je crois qu’elle évolue. Les Martha Graham et Merce Cunningham de ce monde l’auront d’ailleurs bien prouvé, et ce, à un âge plus que respectable. Ces danseurs auront su exercer leur art au fil du temps, leurs corps changeant avec les années, avec une beauté et une grâce infinie. Afin de voir en chair et en os la beauté en mouvement et d’apprécier tout le génie du chorégraphe Stephan Thoss de concert avec les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal, la pièce Searching for Home sera présentée les 12,13,14 et 19,20 21 mai à la Place des Arts. www.grandsballets.com
MUSIQUE
Par Bruno Morissette. Juliette Gréco – N˚ 7 (1961)
En
Parmi les auteurs de certains titres : Brel, Ferré, Desnos et Brassens. Imaginez la suite, cette grande dame de la chanson française à la livraison si unique et touchante, vous prend la main et vous emmène en ballade. Une œuvre qui semble collée à ces moments ou votre cœur bascule et se sent porté par l’enchantement de la vie…On n’oublie rien, Jolie môme…C’était bien!
passant
André Mathieu - André Mathieu joue André Mathieu
Après le formidable travail d’Alain Lefèvre pour faire renaître la musique de ce génie québécois, un réel désir s’imposait d’entendre Mathieu lui-même jouer ses compositions. C’est grâce au travail du réalisateur et chroniqueur Georges Nicholson et de l’entourage de Mathieu que ce magnifique album à vue le jour. 20 pièces témoignant d’une oeuvre impressionnante, d’un savoir-faire exceptionnel en improvisation et d’une belle romance musicale qui aurait due traverser la planète plus rapidement.
Lady Gaga – Born This Way (23 mai)
L’album le plus attendu de la décennie selon plusieurs. Elton John qualifie le premier simple, Born This Way, comme l’hymne qui remplacera I Will Survive avec son ouverture sur le monde gay : «No matter gay, straight or bi / Lesbian, transgendered life / I’m on the right track, baby / I was born to survive.» Une éléctro-pop encore plus maîtrisée et rugissante. À Toronto le 3 mars, Ottawa le 6 et le 25 à Montréal.
Malajube – La Caverne (19 avril)
La signature voix/guitare si singulière de Malajube est facilement repérable dès les premières notes des extraits entendus. La voix de Julien Mineau semble encore calibrée pour ne pas être ‘‘au-dessus’’ du reste des instruments. Elle est un instrument. Les détracteurs du genre seront déçus. Pas les amateurs. On y sent encore un fond de prog., mais surtout la rare beauté d’avoir un son unique et créatif dans un océan d’influences et d’affluences musicales. Un 4e album plus pop que Labyrinthe, nous a-t-on dit…
R.E.M. – Collapse into now (8 mars)
Un album qui devrait être plus personnel, humain et ouvert qu’Accelerate (2008). C’est l’âge de la grande maturité pour REM, déjà de très solides créateurs et musiciens. On présente ici une pop rock habile et d’une grande efficacité dans ce qui semble être un retour aux sources. Il est également très agréable de retrouver des chansons touchantes et portant sur la réflexion tel Everyday Is Yours To Win et Me, Marlon Brando, Marlon Brando and I. À signaler : la collaboration d’Eddie Vedder, Peaches et P.J. Harvey.
Portishead - Dummy (1994)
Déjà 17 ans cette année depuis la sortie du premier album de Portishead. Un son Trip hop tellement typé que certains lui appréhendaient une difficulté à bien passer l’épreuve du temps. Or, il suffit d’une seule écoute pour encore une fois se faire envoûter par cet univers si particulier d’échantillonnages, de jazz et de poésie noire. Endossé par des arrangements minimalistes et intelligents, la voix chavirante de Beth Gibbons ouvre sur d’autres dimensions de l’être. Rien de moins.
TORONTO BOOK BY ANTHONYDE CARLI
Spring is for lovers and, if you’re up for it, the perfect time to pop the proverbial question. Lucky for you (yes, you) the team at Savoir Flare can take you from a jaw-dropping “Will you?” to a flawless “I do”. Toronto’s undisputed queen of the lux-wedding circuit, owner and creative director, Cachelle Colquhoun, orchestrates every exhilarating moment and personalizes every fine detail, which is precisely why she’s the most sought-after ‘couture’ event designer in Toronto. www.savoirflare.com 647-342 5065
Design avenue
Love Is In The Air
ITALIANO
Undoubtedly Toronto’s (if not Canada’s) most inspired collection of contemporary furniture and home fashions. Advocating with passion that every piece “should tell a story from a distinct point of view,” this absolutely stunning showroom features a range of exclusive furniture, lighting, and accessories from around the world (including the work of Brazil’s Sergio Rodrigues and Simone Coste, Christophe Delcourt of France, Konstantin Grcic of Germany, and Toronto’s own design wunderkind, Yabu Pushelberg). Avenue Road, 415 Eastern Avenue, Toronto. www.avenue-road.com
Founders Charles Khabouth and Toufik Sarwa deliver a fresh new approach to modern homestyle Italian cuisine complete with sleek, warm interiors and hip and social atmosphere with a laid-back attitude. A menu of stone-oven pizzas, unique antipasti, and artful pasta dishes all perfected by Executive Chef Sean Reeve. Briscola. 501, College St. www.briscola.ca – By Brianna Persall
sweet home NEW KID AT THE FASHION PARADE
Perhaps the most thrilling thing about the roster this spring at Toronto for LG Fashion Week (besideds the usual suspects) is a punky kid from Edmonton who will make his Totonto debut on March 31st. Sid Neigum appears to be one of the most promising designers moving up through the ranks of Canada’s fashion scene. He pulls together bleak colours, unconventional details, floaty silhouettes, and stout materials to achieve a very compelling urban aesthetic for both men and women. www.sidneigum.com
This import from Montreal opens the doors to its new Toronto location in early March, and the hype is building with fervor. Heralded as the natural bridge between Ikea and Roche Bobois, Domison has been putting a comfortable spin on modern and industrial-inspired home furnishings for the last few years from it’s existing location in Montreal’s Plateau neighborhood. Designers Thien and My are excited to bring their distinctive and affordable offerings to a new market, with a not-so-subtle outpost at the threshold of Toronto’s furniture alley. Domison, King Street East at Jarvis, Toronto. www.domison.com
living
Cake
couture An unabashed talent,a self-assured seeker of beauty and taste,a personality layered with humour and love...Pastry chef Laurent Jeannin creates his desserts much like an artist creates a painting — in tribute to the quintessence of beauty,pure and simple. By Laurence Levy
N
othing about his youth suggested he might one day find himself at the forefront of the pastry-making scene. And how he got there is nothing out of the ordinary: at age 12, he took notice of his mother beating eggs. At 13, he discovered Joël Robuchon’s Grand Livre de Cuisine; at 17, he registered for a pastry course at an apprenticeship training centre; and at 18, he nabbed an apprenticeship at the world famous Maison Fauchon. A standard, linear — almost boring — story. And yet, from Auvergne to Paris, from his family home to the 3-star Michelin gourmet restaurant at the Hôtel Le Bristol, Laurent Jeannin’s star has never stopped rising. “It took me years of hard work before I became aware of all this success, the glory,” says Jeannin. “It was only recently, when the Bristol team was working to put together a cookbook, and I saw the photos of my desserts, that I noticed for the first time a kind of signature... which is something I’m quite proud of. And it’s not easy being proud of your own work, realizing that it is appreciated and that you’re appreciated!” Jeannin’s creations have a magnetic charm that can be attributed to two main traits: a highly developed sense of aestheticism and a strong desire to please. While he has a keen sense of artistry, the renowned chef is also driven to find the perfect concept. “I have a good awareness of what
our customers want,” he says. “Nowadays, after eating a heavy, rich meal, most people want a light dessert, something not too heavy, not too sweet.” With this in mind, he has made airy, crispy sweets his trademark. Poached figs in a gingerbread-strawberry syrup with pear, lychee and lemon meringue ice cream: it gets your mouth watering without being overwhelming. “I want people to feel like they haven’t eaten too much but that they still found it exquisite.” There is no point in explaining the complexity of dishes like this: the unique combination of textures and flavours is enough to convince anyone of Jeannin’s creative genius. But above all, it’s in the exquisite and unique beauty of his presentations, shapes and arrangements that he leaves his mark. Paintbrush-applied designs, crystallized rose petals, gold leaf, a record player as a cake base... The only limitations are those of his overflowing imagination. “It’s funny to be told that my creations are very modern or visually overthe-top, when I’m not really thinking about it, or I don’t realize it,” he says. “I’m not a dreamer or an artist. The only thing that keeps inspiring me time and again is the joy I get from surprising and astonishing people.” That’s the cherry on top! lebristolparis.com
TORONTO BOOK
BY PATRICKGERVAIS &Justine Iaboni
Forward Vision
A visit to Spectacle is an unforgettable experience: high-fashion meets optical function. The stores offer a warm, lounge-like, stylish atmosphere and house glowing displays of exclusive designer frames, boutique collections and the most sought-after vintage eyewear like Paloma Picasso, Cazal and Linda Farrow. Each of their over 2,000 frames are handpicked, including a rare collection of fashion-forward models in a variety of styles and materials ranging from classic to funky, plastic to precious metals, as well as limited production boutique frames. With three locations in Toronto, this award-winning eyewear boutique makes four-eyes chic again. www.spectaclelovesyou.com
FULL
RACK
Proprietors Glenna Weddle and Faith Orfus opened Rac Boutique in August with a roster of international, emerging and undiscovered designers. Used as a creative forum, the minimal white space also houses accessories, speciality books and gifts. This season look for Preen Line, Mandy Coon, and Toga Pulla hanging alongside already established brands such as Vivienne Westwood’s Anglomania, Sass and Bide, and Mara Hoffman. Located in the heart of Toronto’s Yorkville. 124 Cumberland St., 647-352-4433 www.racboutique.com.
Haute Classics is a trendy consignment store specializing in high-end designer clothing, shoes, handbags, accessories, along with one-off vintage and limited edition pieces. Founded by two young, and driven entrepreneurs, Jina Han and Stella Kim, Haute Classics is the go-to source for any fashionista looking for real deal luxury goods on a budget; Jina and Stella are committed to selling only authentic designer labels. All items are hand-selected on their look, feel and style. Haute Classics is a designer haven for those glamour girls who prefer to dress for less whilst never compromising their cool. 946 Yonge Street, 416-922-7900, www. hauteclassics.com
HAUTE
Bargains
A2Zane.com is now also a temporary pop-up store on Queen. The owner and handbag specialist, Zane Aburaneh, employs his encyclopaedic knowledge to hand pick only the very recherché small luxury goods and bags from all over the world. Zane will start your visit off with a fresh glass of Italian soda – maybe even a spritzer if it’s happy hour – while show and telling coveted pieces from designers like Rebecca Minkoff, Matt & Nat and the beyond belief gorgeous Velvetine handbags, imported from France exclusively by Zane. Another personal favourite are the Italian O’Clock watches which come in every single colour of the rainbow and look oh so pretty on both guys and gals. A2Zane, 1040 Queen ST. W., 416-803-7754. www.a2zane.com.
Aladin Zane
room service photography Max Abadian styling Cary Tauben
Beautés capturées au cœur d’un univers baroque. Regards désinvoltes, lèvres rouges, ondulations glamour, lignes classiques, mélange sensuel et intimiste, objet d’une décadence. Elegant belles seized amidst a baroque universe. Nonchalant attitudes, red lips, glamourous waves, classic lines and intimitate sensuality that will drive you to decadence.
On Gabrielle: Dress Jaeger.Shoes Cesare Paciotti. On Masha: Pantsuit & Blouse Jaeger. Shoes Jimmy Choo.
Dress Carven. Cuffs Alexis Bittar. Opposite page: Trench coat Sonia Rykiel. Shoes D&G.
Dress Helmer. Shoes Jimmy Choo.
Dress Denis Gagnon. Opposite page: On Gabrielle: Dress Greta Constantine. Bracelets Simons Montreal. Necklace Hera. On Masha: Dress Greta Constantine.
Dress Alice & Olivia. Shoes Cesare Paciotti. Bangles Expressions. Ring Hera at Matt Bailey. Earrings worn throughout on both Masha & Gabrielle Arielle De Pinto. Styling,Cary Tauben at Folio. Styling Assistant, Shawn Dezan. Hair & Makeup, Leslie-Ann Thomson at Folio using MAC and TRESemmĂŠ. Models, Masha at Folio, Gabrielle at Next. Location, Pierre Du Calvet hotel.
DOUBLE VISION photography Lily & Lilac styling Nadia Pizzimenti
magnifique effet optique, dédoublement sous l’objectif. Font-elles qu’une? l’âme sœur en plus sombre? en noir ou blanc, elles se révèlent mi ange, mi démon, sublime ! an optical effect − split in two through the lens. are they one or two dark sister? in black or white, half angel and half demon, amazing!
On Ana: Structured suit BROSE. Vest Diesel. Bracelets Dandi Maestre. On Danielle: Leather cone bra Love Sick Corrective Apparel. Wide leg trousers Denis Gagnon. Leather belt Brave. Watches Thomas Sabo. Ring and earrings Dandi Maestre.
Dress BCBG MaxAzria. Cuffs Dandi Maestre. Silver bracelets at Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection. Ring Thomas Sabo. Shoes D&G at Browns. Opposite page: On Ana: Dress Jeremy Laing. Necklace Dandi Maestre. Ring Thomas Sabo. On Danielle: Chain and mesh top Denis Gagnon. Leather Skirt Diesel. Sheer slip Vintage Stylists Own. Croc leather and suede cuffs Dandi Maestre.
Dress CHANEL. Cuffs Philippe Audibert. Cuff Karl Lagerfeld at Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection. Necklace Dandi Maestre. Shoes CHANEL. Opposite page: On Ana: Dress Denis Gagnon. On Danielle: Silk dress and sleeveless vest Jeremy Laing. Cuff Dandi Maestre. Bracelets CHANEL.
Dip dye fringe dress Denis Gagnon. Cuff Dandi Maestre. Bracelet CHANEL. Vintage earrings at Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection. Opposite page: On Ana: Sheer bra Love Sick Corrective Apparel. Scarf worn as top Missoni. Earrings at Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection. Bracelet Brave. On Danielle: Dress BCBG Max Azria. Scarf Missoni. Photo assistant, Gillaine Chapman. Styling, Nadia Pizzimenti at Judy Inc. Hair & Makeup, Anna Barseghian for TRESemmĂŠ Hair Care at Ford. Models, Danielle & Ana at Sutherland Models.
I FEEL LOVe Beauté sculpturale. Amazone disco dans une spectaculaire combinaison pantalon. Impressionnante sobriété dans une robe lamée. Elle se fait lascive ou pensive en négligée de soie. First class! Sculptural beauty. a disco amazon sheathed in a spectacular onepiece or striking in a simple lamé dress. Lasciviously pensive in her slik négligé. First class! photography Richard Bernardin styling Fritz
Robe longue en lamé et épaule asymétrique Pink Tartan.Ceinture large pailletée Louis Vuitton.
Body en Polyamide et détails de dentelle Éres chez Lyla. Étole en renard teint Fourrures Naturelles. Sandales en cuir laqué et suède, nouées à la cheville Louis Vuitton. Page opposée: Soutien-gorge en dentelle Princess Tam Tam chez Simons. Étole en renard teint Fourrures Naturelles. Pantalon tux en laine/rayonne Jean Paul Gaultier chez Henriette L. Ceinture large pailletée Louis vuitton. Bague en métal ornée d’une pierre noire Alex Fraga chez La Baie. Bracelets en métal Marni et Kenneth Jay Lane chez Holt Renfrew.
Haut licou en jersey Gucci chez Holt Renfrew. Boucles d’oreilles frangées en chaînes deux tons Chanel. Étole en renard teintFourrures Naturelles. Page opposée : Combinaison bustier en laine/ élastane et appliqués en suède Hermès. Ceinture large pailletée Louis Vuitton. Bracelets en résine et bracelet H en métal laqué Hermès. Sandales en cuir laqué et suède, nouées à la cheville Louis Vuitton.
Pull en coton, motif girafe pailleté Louis Vuitton. Bracelets en métal Marni et Kenneth Jay Lane chez Holt Renfrew. Styliste, Fritz chez Satellite. Maquillage et coiffure Paco Puertas chez Satellite avec les produits TRESemme. Mannequin, Richelle D chez Folio. Assistants photo, Fred Robitaille et Julien Barbès.Production, R14. Retouches, Sublim.
BARCELONA photography GREG SWALES styling Guilia Marisili
Parka G-Star. Trousers and Waistcoat Gori de Palma. Shirt Prada. Sneakers G-Star. Shirt American Apparel. Trousers Trussardi. Sneakers G-Star. Hat Jeffson.
Parka G-Star. Trousers and Waistcoat Gori de Palma. Shirt Prada. Sneakers G-Star. Opposite page: Trousers Lacoste. See-thru t-shirt American Apparel. Tank top Gori de Palma.
Shirt and waistcoat Gori de Palma. Leggings American Apparel. Necklace Dyrberg & Kern.
Hat stylist’s own. Coat Victorio & Lucchino. Leggings American Apparel. Scarf Foulard Schmoove. Boots G-Star. Opposite page: Trousers American Apparel. Shirt Victorio & Lucchino. Grooming, Iván Gómez. Model, Olivier at UNO Models Barcelona.
photography Shayne Laverdière styling Yso
En musique de fond, Madonna :« Music makes the bourgeoisie and the rebels », elle se pare de ses plus beaux atours, se glissant d’une robe aux dentelles .immaculées à un top aux imprimés de fauve. Rebelle bourgeoise ou bourgeoise rebelle? Telle est la question . Madonna could be singing in the background, “Music Makes the bourgeoisie & the rebel.”, she adorns herself with her best attire, a lace dress or an animal print top? Rebel bourgeoise or bourgeoise Rebel? That is the question.
Tunique paillettée et haut en dentelle MARGIT BRANDT chez Melanie McLean. Bracelets et bagues ALDO. Boucles d’oreilles en argent collection BIRKS ANEMONE par Esty.
Robe en soie RUSH COUTURE. Cardigan en soie et tricot orange et saumon HANIIY chez La Baie. Sandales et bague en strass ALDO. Collier et boucles d’oreilles en or et perles Triadra collection par DI MODOLO chez Birks.
Haut en soie et écharpe VERO MODA. Pantalon en soie BEDO. Bas collant MONDOR. Sandales argentées BROWNS. Manchettes et bague Dandi Maestre. Collier BCBG maxazria. Sac à main en suède SONIA RYKIEL chez Henriette L.
Blouse en soie TUCKER chez La Baie. Pantalon taille haute en soie MARGIT BRANDT chez Melanie Mclean. Chaussures à plateforme avec chaînes CHANEL. Sac à main BROWNS.Collier et boucles d’oreilles PHILLIP CRANGI chez U&I. Bracelets en corne et bague Dandi Maestre. Page opposée : Ensemble deux pièces et sac à main CHANEL. Broche Rose de Noel VAN CLEEF & ARPELS chez Birks. Bracelet, boucles d’oreilles et bague en argent collection BIRKS ANEMONE par Esty. Bas collant MONDOR. Chaussures BCBG maxazria.
Robe avec ceinture BCBG maxazria.Collier VAN CLEEF & ARPELS chez Birks. Boucles d’oreilles et bague en or VOYEUR. Dans toutes les photos, fleurs avec pétales métalliques et voilettes de couleurs RIXRAX. Stylisme, YSO chez Folio. Maquillage et coiffure, Leslie-Ann Thomson chez Folio utilisant MAC et TRESemmé. Mannequin, Mira chez Dulcedo Model Management. Assistant photographe, Nicolas Charon. Remerciement à Paul Maréchal pour le lieu.
Haut en dentelle et paillette BEDO. Haut transparent FREE PEOPLE chez La Baie. Robe en mousseline BCBG maxazria. Bas collant MONDOR. Chaussures MARC BY MARC JACOBs chez Browns. Collier, boucles d’oreilles et bague ALDO.
FASHION
Couture Forget stuffy and bourgeois,Haute Couture has never been so avant-garde. Dutch designer Iris Van HErpen yields high tech equipment like lasers and computers to create her unique clothes. She just might be the future of couture. By Tyler Parsons.
wave
S
he graduated in 2006 from the Holland ARTEZ Art Academy and received strong reviews about her graduate collection. It was not long before Iris had made the decision to move to Paris where she would pursue a career in fashion. Like any young aspiring designer, Iris sought a mentor; someone with impeccable skill and technique who was willing to share with her their knowledge and talent. Incredibly, Iris received an opportunity of a lifetime to work alongside the great Alexander McQueen. “It was a really great experience. I learned a lot about hard work, and that fashion is not just about making clothes, it’s about the story and pushing boundaries”. Before Iris would go on to launch her own line, Iris van Herpen, she began designing for Claudy Jongstra (who is known for her use of felt textiles). Under Jongstra, van Herpen learned the importance of being aware in your surroundings. “Awareness allows one to draw inspiration from diverse outlets”, claims Iris. “Architecture, technology, interior and industrial design are all sources for stimulating original ideas”. This new found knowledge and appreciation for creativity ignited Iris to focus on her elaborate design aesthetic. Haute couture in Iris’s opinion is about experimentation and discovery; a process of doing and learning. She
TOP, from left: Spring/summer 2011runway show. Far Right and below: Refinery Smoke collection.
mentions that, “The only way there is time to discover new techniques and new materials is when you meticulously dedicate countless hours to constructing striking couture pieces”. “Not everything I do is perfect; therefore, it is beautiful”. Iris certainly believes in the beauty of her craftsmanship, but there are other aspects of life, that she too, finds beautiful. When asked what beauty means to her, she divulges an honest answer: “Real beauty is something pure, like a non-material thing. For example, a moment, a feeling, music or imperfection...these are what I find the most beautiful in life”. To achieve beauty in her clothing, Iris personifies each garment – an innovative method that brings both designer and design closer together. Interestingly, she says, “The longer we work on a garment, the more it develops a particular character, and eventually we name it”. Because each design represents a unique identity, van Herpen casts models that portray similar characteristics to that of the clothing. “I look for girls with a distinct personality and that have a unique look. I want to create a symbiotic relationship between the girls and the clothes”, she expresses. Van Herpen’s interest in the human body and how we express ourselves to reveal our identity is the main reason she decided to study fashion. Her attraction to garments
derives from the idea that, “Clothes have a strong relation to the body. They are a form of art so closely related to us that help us to discover who we truly are”. This young couture designer admits that, “The pieces become so close to you... a part of you. I feel like I am part of the collections, because of the attention I give to them, and I have finally come to realize the reason for my existence here on Earth”. As a young designer, Iris is already enjoying many career accomplishments. In 2007 she debuted her premier postgraduate collection at Amsterdam Fashion Week, and was later scouted to present her collection at Tokyo Fashion Week and London Fashion Week. She has worked on design projects for the Dutch embassy in Berlin and G-Star, collaborated with hat designer Stephen Jones, and has staged numerous museum exhibitions all over the world. Iris continues to charge forward with dogged determination to make clear to the world that, “fashion is an artistic expression.” She hopes that in the future she will collaborate with other artists, to unite different artistic realms. As for the future of couture, “I foresee couture in the streets. It will be more playful, more expressive and more daring!” Without a doubt, Iris van Herpen is a young talent to follow closely in the upcoming seasons. www.irisvanherpen.com
WHERE TO BUY ALDO aldoshoes.com ALEXANDER MCQUEEN alexandermcqueen.com ALEXANDER WANG www.alexanderwang.com AMERICAN APPAREL www.americanapparel.com ANTOINE LAOUN antoinelaoun.com ARIELLE DE PINTO www.arielledepinto.com BCBGMAXAZRIA www.bcbg.com BELKIN belkin.com BEN SHERMAN bensherman.com BETSEY JOHNSON betseyjohnson.com BIG IT UP bigitup.com BIJOUTERIE ITALIENNE 514-279-5585 BIRKS www.birks.com BOLONGARO TREVOR bolongarotrevor.com BROWNS brownsshoes.com BUTTERFLY SOULFIRE btfsf.com CARTE BALNCHE shopcarteblanche.ca CHANEL chanel.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN christianlouboutin.com CHRISTIAN SIRIANO christianvsiriano.com COMPLEXGEOMETRIES complexgeometries.com CRUELLA cruella.ca DANIER danier.com DENIS GAGNON denisgagnon.ca DIESEL BLACK GOLD www.diesel.com DIFFY JEWELRY diffy-jewelry.com DKNY donnakaran.com DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com DSQUARED2 www.dsquared2.com DUBUC dubucstyle.com DUY duycollection.com ELVIS AND JESUS elvisjesus.co.uk ENVERS www.yvesjeanlacasse.com ENZO ANGIOLINI www.ninewest.ca ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com EYES ON CHURCH STREET OPTICAL 416-962-3937 GRETA CONSTANTINE gretaconstantine.com FREDRICK PRINCE fredrickprince.com FIFTH AVENUE SHOE REPAIR shoerepair.se FOLK CLOTHING folkclothing.com GESTUZ gestuz.com GIANFRANCO FERRE www.gianfrancoferre.it
GIVENCHY givenchy.com GRETA CONSTANTINE- gretaconstantine.com GUERLAIN Boutiques 416-929-6114, 514-933-6114 H & M www.hm.com HALSTON www.halston.com HARRICANA marioucheharricana.qc.ca HARRY ROSEN harryrosen.com HAUTE CLASSICS hauteclassics.com HELMER www.helmerjoseph.com HENRIETTE L www.henriettel.com HOLT RENFREW www.holtrenfrew.com HUGO BOSS www.hugoboss.com IZMA www.izma.ca JACOB www.jacob.ca JEAN PAUL GAULTIER www.jeanpaulgaultier.com JEREMY LAING www.jeremylaing.com JEREMY SCOTT For Adidas adidas.com JOHN GALLIANO www.johngalliano.com JOHN VARVATOS www.johnvarvatos.com JUMA www.jumastudio.com KARA ROSS www.kararossny.com KAUFFMAN DE SUISSE www.kaufmanndesuisse.com KRANE kranedesign.com KRYSTOF STROZYNA krystofstrozyna.com LA SWISS www.laswiss.com LE TULIPIER 514-398-0707 LES ÉTOFFES lesetoffes.com LINDA FARROW LUXE www.lindafarrow.co.uk J.LINDEBERG jlindeberg.com LOU MISTRAOU www.loumistraou.com LOUIS VUITON www.louisvuitton.com LUCKYSCENT.com 1-866-931-8297 MANOLO BLAHNIK www.manoloblahnik.com MARK FAST markfast.net MARTIN LIM www.martin-lim.com MICHAEL KORS www.michaelkors.com MICHEL BRISSON www.michelbrisson.com MITCHIE’S mitchies.ca MONDOR www.mondor.com MUUBAA muubaa.co.uk NATURAL FURS INTERNATIONAL naturalfurs.com OGILVY www.ogilvycanada.com
OMEGA www.omega.ca OPENING CEREMONY www.openingceremony.us OSCAR DE LA RENTA www.oscardelarenta.com OSiS+ to find a salon: facebook.com/OSiSstyling PEARLS BEFORE SWINE pearlsbeforewine.ca PENGUIN penguinclothing.com PHILIP SPARKS philipsparks.com PHILLIP LIM 3.1 philliplim.com PINK COBRA by Tania Martins pinkcobra.ca PLUM SHOES plumshoes.com PROENZA SCHOULER proenzaschouler.com PUMA puma.com RAG & BONE www.rag-bone.com RALPH LAUREN www.ralphlauren.com REBORN reborn.ws REMIX remixclothing.ca RISTO BIMBILOSKI www.ristobimbiloski.com SAVOIE JOAILLERIE 514-502-3001 SECRET www.secretpantyhouse.com SIMONSsimons.ca SONIA RYKIEL www.soniarykiel.com SPECTACLE 416-603-0123 STEPHEN DWECK www.stephendweck.com SWAROVSKI www.swarovski.com TAVAN & MITTO tavanmitto.com THE BAY www.hbc.com The Perfume Shoppe 1-877-299-8500 THE ROW www.therow.com THOMAS SABO thomassabo.com TIGER OF SWEDEN 514-798-8821 TNT Boutique 514-935-1588 TRAVIS TADDEO www.travistaddeo.com U & I boutiqueuandi.com UNICORN boutiqueunicorn.com UPC Boutique upcboutique.com VALÉRIE DUMAINE valeriedumaine.com SWISS ARMY www.swissarmy.com VIVIENNE WESTWOOD www.viviennewestwood.co.uk WALTER STEIGER www.waltersteiger.com WINNERS winners.ca ZEGNA SPORT www.zegnasport.com ZZEGNA www.zzegna.com
SS DRE
John Steinberg and Associates Salon 585 king St. West Jonathan + Olivia 49 ossington ave. Kazuo 371 Queen St West LAB Consignment 15 ossington ave. Lavish & Squalor Queen St. West Liv by Au Lit 418 eglinton ave. West Love of Mine Boutique 781 Queen St. West M0851 23 St.thomas St. Magnolia 333 eglinton avenue West Meg 849 Queen St. West Mirabelli 456 eglinton ave. West model Citizen 279 augusta ave. Mosheta Salon and Spa 534 Queen St. West Negash and Dessa 161 Danforth ave. Noise Queen 275 St. West Obsession Boutique 482 eglinton ave. West Over the Rainbow 101 yorkville ave. Parlour 6 ossington ave. Parts and Labour 1566 Queen St West. Pelo Salon and Spa 590 Bloor St West Pho Pa 698 Queen St. West Preloved 230 Danforth ave., 881 Queen St. West Rapp Optical 788 College Street revival Couture 363 eglinton ave. West Ritual Tanning and Spa 793 king St. West Robber 863 Queen St. West Shop Girls Gallery Boutique 1342 Queen St. West Showroom 278 Queen St. West Silver Falls vintage 15 ossington ave. Social Butterfly Boutique 315 Danforth ave. Spectacle 55 mill St., 752 Queen St. West Tabula Rasa745 Broadview ave. The Alcorn Salon and Spa 1222 yonge St. The Drake Hotel 1150 Queen St. West The Gladstone Hotel 1214 Queen St. West The Lane 138 Cumberland St. The Mad Bean 519 eglinton ave. West The Mascot 1267 Queen St. West the Serpentine 18 Hazelton St. Thieves 1156 Queen St. West Three16 538 eglinton ave. West TNT 388-392 eglinton ave West Toni and Guy 102 Bloor St. West &180 Bloor St. West uncle Otis 26 Bellair St. uPC Boutique 128 ½ Cumberland St. Vidal Sasoon Salon 37 avenue road W Salon 721 Queen St. West West Salon 1188 Queen St. West Also: ryerson university School of Fashion, Ontario College of Art and Design (oCaD), George Brown College, Seneca College Fashion School, international Academy of Art and Design MONTREAL Adidas 1238, Ste-Catherine o AM68, Cours mont-royal Antoine Laoun 700, rue Ste-Catherine Axara, Complexe les ailes Bijouterie italienne192 rue Saint zotique e.
Billy Kun 354 ave du mont-royal e Boite Noire 376, mont-royal e Boutique Billie 141, av laurier Boutique Duo 30, Prince-arthur o Boutique Scandale 3639, St-laurent Boutique Verso 1222 de maisonneuve o Buonanotte 3518, St-laurent Centre-Rockland Club MAA 2070, rue Peel Club Mansfield 1230, rue mansfield Cluny 257, Prince Clusier 432, rue mcGill Coifure Saint-Laurent 916a, rue Sainte-Catherine e Complexe Les Ailes 677 rue Sainte Catherine o Coupe Bizarre 3770 Boulevard Saint laurent Dihn Ba design 1709, rue amherst Divine & Cibel 407, rue mcGill Dubuc 4451, St-Denis Eclectic 5142, rue St-laurent Face London au Cours mont-royal Funky Toque 3688 Boulevard Saint laurent Glam Salon Boutique 364, rue St-Paul Henriette 1031, rue laurier o. Holder 407, rue mcGill John Fluevog 3857 rue Saint Denis La Baie 585, rue Ste-Catherine o. La Maison Des Pâtes 865 Rue Rachel Est Librissime 62, rue St-Paul Little Burgundy 1127, St-Catherine o. M W Salon 400, rue mcGill M0851 3526 St-laurent , 1190 de maisonneuve W et Complexe les ailes Macaroni Bar 4448 Boulevard Saint laurent Marie Saint-Pierre 2081, de la montagne matt Baily 1427 Crescent Mens 1150, boul. de maisonneuve o. Michel Brisson 1012, laurier o Mimi & Coco 6717, boul St-laurent Miss Sixty 1440, rue Peel Neon 4251 rue St-Denis Orbite 221, laurier o Photo Service 222, rue notre-Dame o. Puma 1334, rue Ste-Catherine o. Razberry 1841 rue Sainte Catherine o Rosenstein 2148, rue de la montagne Salon Aveda 3613 Boulevard Saint laurent Salon Pure Cours mont-royal Sid Lee 75, rue Queen Spa Diva, Cour mont-royal Spa Valmont 446 rue Sainte-Hélène Suite 88 Chocolatier 1225 boul. de maisonneuve o Suite 88 Chocolatier 3957, rue St-Denis Surface Jalouse 2668, rue notre-Dame e. tavan & Mitto 5334, boul St-laurent tiger of Sweden 1130, boul de maisonneuve o. u & i 3650, Saint-laurent W Montreal 90,1 Square victoria Westmount spa 1, Westmount Square
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TORONTO LG Toronto Fashion Week Alternative Arts and Fashion Week (Fat) (Spring) Nuit Blanche Art of Fashion (Fall) 69 Vintage 1100 Queen St. West Almost Naked 479 Queen St. West American Apparel 2466-2468 yonge Street American Apparel 499 Queen St West Andy The Anh 27 Bellair ave. Anti Hero 113 yorkville ave. Aritizia 280 Queen Street West Avenue Cafe+Bistro 480 university ave. B2 399 Queen St. West Balisi 2507 yonge St. Balisi 439 Danforth ave. Balisi 668 College St. Balisi 711 Queen St. West Balzac’s Coffee Roastery 55 mill St. Bella 498 eglinton ave. West Blackline Studios 577 king Street West Blo Blow Dry Bar 2594 yonge St. Blondies 1378 Queen St West Blow and Go 787 king St. West Bob+Paige Salon 412 Danforth ave. Body Blue 199 Danforth ave., 724 Queen St. W Boomer 309 Queen Street West Buckler 700 Queen St. West Bungalow 273 augusta ave. Carte Blanche 758 Queen St. West Change Room 425 Queen St. West Charlie Boutique 809 Queen St. West Chasse Garde 1084 Queen St West Civello 2620 yonge St./ 269 Queen St. West/ 887 yonge St. Clafouti Queen St. West Cloud Free Agent Espresso Bar 968 Queen St West Coupe Bizarre 704 Queen St. West Csquared 365 Queen St. West DBK Salon and Spa 808 york mills rd. Decibel 200 Queen St. West Delphic 706 Queen St. West Deluxe Boutique 793 Queen St. West Dillon Opticians 2567 yonge St. Due West-Next Door 431 Queen St. West Erietta 320 Danforth ave. Exit Salon 1360 yonge Street Fashionably Yours 632 Queen St. West Fawn 967 Queen St. West Finn 1 yorkville ave. Fiveoseven Clothing 496 Danforth ave. Fred Perry 964 Queen St. West Freedom Clothing Collective 939 Bloor St. West Girl Friday 740 Queen St West GotStyle 489 king St West Great Hall Cafe 1087 Queen St. West Hammam Spa 602 king St West Harlots Salon 660 Queen St. Westt Honey 460 eglinton ave. West House of Vintage 1239 Queen St. West i Miss You Vintage ossington ave. JacFlash 1036 Queen St. West
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BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
Pushing the envelope: beauty has always been a representation of a social ideal and social change.A review of iconic beauties through the decades. By Mariame Moussally. Collage by Cocagne.
T
he fashion world, generally a blasé bunch, recently witnessed a legendary happening, in the very private, ultra-exclusive launch of Tom Ford’s first women’s collection. One of the most remarkable features of the event was the fact that Ford had women who defined their decade model for him: personalities, characters who have not only transcended their beauty, but who have also become icons of their decade, renowned for their art, personalities, lifestyles and individual style. Tom Ford himself, the ultimate symbol of the slick, ultra-sexedup, hard, glossy 90s, couldn’t find a better cast to represent his vision. Smooth, suave and with just the right touch of vulgarity, no one, in the last two decades, has better exemplified a new type of masculinity and femininity. Seventies-inspired Yves Saint Laurent–influenced fashion is back with a vengeance, as we have seen, and so is “touchable, kissable beauty,” according to Ford. Who better represents that ideal than legendary beauties Jerry Hall, Marisa Berenson and Pat Cleveland? Marisa Berenson, the incarnation of 1970s Studio 54 glamour, never ceases to be an object of fascination, thanks to her extraordinary life as a 60s couture model, granddaughter of Chanel’s arch-rival Elsa Schiaparelli, Studio 54 icon, unforgettable actress for Visconti and Kubrick, and humanitarian activist for UNICEF. And who could forget the more all-American, sporty beauties such as Lauren Hutton and Farrah Fawcett? Hutton, the fresh face of the 60s and 70s, the original “Charlie” perfume girl who seduced the grand fashion priestess herself, Diana
Vreeland, went on to become a famous actress, thanks to American Gigolo, and her legacy still endures. In 2005, at 61, she posed nude for Big Magazine. “I want them (women) not to be ashamed of who they are when they’re in bed,” Hutton told ABC’s Good Morning America. The 70s ideal of sporty, healthy, glowing beauty was also exemplified by Farrah Fawcett, the biggest TV star of her era, whose feathered blonde hairstyle became an international trend, from the 70s all the way to the early 80s. While the 70s paved the way for glitzy or sporty types, the 80s brought exotic, sharp, intimidating icons into the couture and fashion world: think back to all the great couture icons and muses such as Farida Khelfa (muse of master couturiers Azzedine Alaia, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Jean-Paul Goude) and the late, great Katoucha Niane, who described her first meeting with Yves Saint Laurent as “him recognizing rather than meeting me.” The master, in his young years, did a drawing representing his ideal woman, and when he met Katoucha, he found his ideal, feline woman standing before him. Born in Guinea, Katoucha triumphed as an haute couture and Parisian nightlife queen, but she was also a symbol of tragedy, having suffered the horrors of female genital mutilation at age nine, sexual and drug abuse and an untimely death in 2008. She explained (in her autobiography Dans ma chair) how ironic it was that she, who was amputated of her femininity at nine years old, went on to become the most glorious, arrogant symbol of femininity as a supermodel. What about the gentlemen? Marlon Brando’s 50s imagery, all tight jeans, leather jackets and white t-shirt, still
resonates with our idea of male sex appeal, just like Elvis Presley and his tight outfits, considered scandalous at the time. Frank Sinatra set the standard for cool and refinement. Billy Idol, with his spiky hair, black clothes and studs, remains one of the patron saints of carefree, rock ’n’ roll style. In the 90s and the aughts, we witnessed the birth of the union between sports and fashion, thanks to hunky, fashion-conscious athletes such as David Beckham and Cristiano Ronaldo, who went on to become stars for Armani underwear campaigns. Just before that, who could forget the iconic Calvin Klein 90s ads with Mark Wahlberg and his perfect abs? Today, George Clooney and Tom Ford reign supreme, with their suave good looks, elegance and masculinity. In Ford’s case, a touch of vulgarity adds excitement to his allure. In the last decade, we witnessed Kate Moss, widely hailed as the shape of the 90s, becoming an empire in her own right and an undisputed style icon. So admired is her beauty, fashion sense and lifestyle that she launched a wildly successful clothing line with UK retailer Top Shop. Decadent and rock ’n’ roll, her excesses are just as legendary as her mystery. That said, another kind of quirky, eccentric, slightly darker beauty has infiltrated the fashion world in recent years: take for example supermodel Lara Stone, an AngloDutch beauty with a voluptuous figure and a gap between her teeth, or Kansas native Lindsey Wixson, who can be seen in all the major shows in Paris, New York and Milan. Her unusual, pouty beauty delights, annoys and surprises, but clearly leaves no one indifferent. A perfect way to start a new, if unpredictable decade…
AGENDA
marS
toronto - montrÉal
aPril
UNIQUE
FaSHION FRONTIERS
Dare to accelerate your senses at the annual Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week 2011. Allow yourself to be mesmerized by the avant-garde and cutting edge presentations of 200 emerging and established national and international designers. This year’s theme, “Schematics”, explores the messages, symbols and concepts in the interpretations of fashion through various mediums. The event will transform 99 Sudbury into a spectacle of captivating visual arts and music. −Brianna Persall April 26-29 2011. www.getfat.ca
kill Online
Visit our website for articles and editorials from past issues and more.
aU MONDe
Le Festival International du Film sur l’Art (FIFA) est devenu au cours des années le lieu unique et incon-tournable pour découvrir l’excellence en matière de documentaires sur toutes les formes de création. Le festival nous offre cette année 227 films provenant de 22 pays touchant autant la peinture, l’architecture, la musique que la danse. La mode n’est pas en reste car on pourra y voir le formidable documentaire de Farida Khelfa : Jean-Paul Gaultier ou les codes boulversés. Également au programme un portrait de Cristóbal Balenciaga, pionnier et figure incontournable de la haute couture. Festival International du Film sur l’Art. − Par Stéphane Le Duc. Du 17 au 27 mars 2011. www.artfifa.com
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makinG CONTaCT
The world’s largest photography festival moves into its 15th edition. The Toronto-based annual event continues the tradition of exhibiting groundbreaking and thought-provoking photography. This year the theme “Figure & Ground” is the common thread tying the numerous exhibitions and installations together. Focusing on exploring the theories of how we perceive and recognize shape and form. Not to be missed: Edward Burtynsky’s Oil, A traveling exhibition from the book “Oil” published by Steidl. Burtynsky explores the oil industry with his lens and how it affects people, at the Royal Ontario Museum. Also Suzy Lake’s solo exhibition at the University of Toronto Art Centre emphasizing her most recent work supported by four decades of her career-long exploration of the woman experience. www.scotiabankcontactphoto.com Scotiabank CONTACT Photography Festival, May 1- 31 2011.
freD herZog JACKPOT, 1961, courteSy of eQuinoX gallery anD canaDian muSeum of contemporary photography, ottawa.
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