DEEP Surf Magazine 2011 November December by danielle.siano

ANNUAL GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE

Surfer’s Ear DEEPZINE.COM

/ Feher

Travel Jamaica

/ Kew

November~December 2011 • Volume 6 / No. 6

SB’s Funk Zone

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“ H o n e s t l y, t h i s i s t h e b e s t b o a r d I ’ve ever r i den.”

Hans Rathje plying crystal clear waters while his brother Lars ducks out the back for the next one.

COVER SHOT Tyler Anderson and Presniakov drove up the coast looking for waves and open space. They found both. Photo by Nick Presniakov.

Andres Nuño EDITOR:

Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN:

Danielle Siano www.daniellesiano.com PHOTO CORRECTION:

David Levine

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Nicole de Leon Derek Dodds Arnold Feher Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Michael Kew L. Paul Mann

Katie McClean Kara Petersen David Pu’u Ryan A. Smith Bill Tover Shawn Tracht CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:

Jamie Brisick Chris Burkard Derek Dodds JP Garcia Ronan Gladu Chuck Graham Paul Greene Craig Hamlin Kelsey Hoult Michael Kew Josh Kimball L. Paul Mann

Katie McClean Andres Nuño David Peterson Jeff Pfost Nick Presniakov David Pu’u Jason Rath Ryan A. Smith Seth Stafford Shawn Tracht Bill Tover Billy Wilmot

ASP / Rowland via Getty Images

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

PUBLISHER:

Michael VanStry ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER:

Gary L. Dobbins

SUPPORTING STAFF:

Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Betty Lloyd Amy Orozco Kris Whittenton

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FEATURES

A Glimpse into Lakeyland

Surfer’s Ear

Gear & Wetsuit Guide

Paul Greene Photo Essay

News

Tidelines

Dropping In On Silkworm

Dropping In On McCann

Ladies Room

Surf Shop Downlow

Travel Jamaica

SB’s Funkzone

Northern Exposure

Board Trachting

Green Room

Music & Entertainment

Final Frames

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR November/December 2011 Volume 6, Issue 6

What would everyone do without gear? If we were stripped down to just surfboards, the state of the industry and the lineups would appear much different. I know a couple of surfers at Rincon who still don’t wear leashes even on the heaviest days. If we were all put in the same situation with no gear the word “waterman” might be used with less frequency. Surfing would truly be survival of the fittest and ding repair would be at the top of the industry second only to shaping. That’s a pipedream, I’m afraid, but it is fun to consider. In this issue of DEEP, we’ve devoted our pages to the items that keep us in the water: wetsuits, leashes, wax, deck pads and board bags—especially vital stuff when the surf is going off. Speaking of keeping us in the water, important pieces of gear are earplugs to fend off surfer’s ear, a plight many have endured. Check the feature by Arnold Feher for the low down on that boney growth. Another key piece of gear would be, of course, your wetsuit. In this issue of DEEP we added our first wetsuit guide. Any surf trip these days requires a bevy of surf gear, and in this issue travel writer Michael Kew heads to the warm waters of the Caribbean, specifically Jamaica. The holidays are right around the corner, and this issue will help with all the important decisions that need to be made when it comes to stocking stuffers and gifts under the tree.

CHUCK GRAHAM

Enjoy.

Local Clothing

Chuck Graham

WHO’S ON BOARD? ARNOLD FEHER Writer Arnold Feher is a high school English teacher in Santa Maria. You will find him driving the slow lane in his Toyota van, looking for waves. He loves old surf movies and enjoyed the summer south swells in the Hawaiian Islands.

PAUL GREENE Photographer Paul Greene is a 15-year-old photographer from Santa Barbara who has been addicted to shooting pictures for almost two years. Paul’s inspiration for his photography is drawn from his love for surfing and nature. Future plans include taking photography to a professional level and making it his career.

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News

Kelly Slater has been dominant, winning two of the last three WCT event.

Bobby Martinez Signs with New York’s FTW IN ADDITION to the Quiksilver Pro another surf related event also took place. Santa Barbara’s very own Bobby Martinez has chosen to officially vacate the ASP due to personal reasons. But before he did, he surfed and won his final heat at the Quiksilver N.Y. Pro against Bede Burridge. Later, there was a signing party for Martinez at Vito’s Pizzeria where he inked his new deal with Long Island based sponsor FTW. Many local surfers along with some ASP pros were there to support Martinez. He was quoted as saying, “FTW is the first sponsor that respects me for who I am, and just lets me be myself.”

Bobby Martinez moves threw a mob of people awaiting his arrival to his FTW signing party.

TUE 01

8:24 2:11

3.07 4.85

WED 02

THU 03

10:19 2.94 3:42 4.4

11:49 2.48 5:09 4.19

NOVEMBER 2011 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

FRI 04

12:51 1.92 6:20 4.13

SAT 05

7:10 1:36

5 1.38

SUN 06

6:36 1:14

5.25 .9

MON 07

7:00 1:47

5.46 .5

TUE 08

7:23 2:19

5.65 .18

WED 09

THU 10

7:46 2:50

8:11 3:22

5.79 -.4

5.87 -.17

FRI 11

8:37 3:55

5.89 -.2

SAT 12

SUN13

MON 14

TUE 15

9:05 4:32

9:36 5:11

10:10 5.48 5:56 .11

10:51 5.17 6:46 .29

5.84 -.16

5.7 -.4

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

News

Only in New York

ASP Update Driven

Story and Photos by Bill Tover THE 2011 ASP Pro Tour probably will go down as being one of the most historically significant of this decade. Stepping up to the plate, Quiksilver offered an unprecedented, $1 million dollar total purse with $300,000 going to the winner of the Quiksilver Pro New York. Quiksilver also surprised the professional surfing world by choosing to host this world-class championship for the first time on America’s East Coast at Long Beach (Long Island). Long Beach isn’t known for producing world class waves, but with September’s hurricane season being well known for producing some of the very best surf on the East Coast, Quiksilver, with the assistance of meteorologist Sean Collins, was able to schedule its

event when the surf was at its best. Some other deciding factors in this event’s locale were Long Beach’s close proximity to New York City, easy transportation and plenty of amenities. Quiksilver also wanted to acknowledge the local surfers who are as stoked and competitive as any in the world. Thanks to Hurricane Katia the contest was a huge success. Australian Owen Wright ended up besting Kelly Slater in the final. Quiksilver’s incorporation of the 10th anniversary 9/11 memorial celebrations was a profound moment; a surf contest between local, FDNY and PDNY was held

By Chuck Graham

with Slater leading the FDNY against Travis Logie’s PDNY. Kelly’s FDNY won. The culmination of the memorial services came as the FDNY, PDNY and Lifeguard Honor Guards marched by the hundreds of clapping surfers preparing for their paddle out memorial circle. Surfers of all ages were wearing armbands featuring the names of fallen heroes.

A surf contest between local FDNY and PDNY was a fitting tribute to 9/11.

WED 16

11:43 4.78 7:42 .47

THU 17

7:29 3.17 12:56 4.43

FRI 18

9.23 2.32

2.8 4

SAT 19

10:45 2.07 4:07 3.89

SUN 20

11:45 1.19 5:25 3.94

MON 21

12.37 .3 6:31 4.07

TUE 22

1:25 7:30

-.49 4.18

WED 23

7:01 2:11

6.74 -1.1

THU 24

7:42 2:57

7.02 -1.47

FRI 25

8:24 3:45

7.1 -1.57

AS FAR AS the ASP Tour goes, has there ever been anyone as competitive as Kelly Slater? Doubtful. After 10 world titles spanning from his first in 1992 until now, you’d think that would be enough, but when you’re still at the top of your game at nearly 40-years-old, why should he retire? Following his no show at Jeffrey’s Bay, Slater put on a show at the Billabong Pro at Teahupoo, surfing in the final against and beating Australian Owen Wright, in what would be the first of three finals in a row. Wright took Slater to task at the Quiksilver Pro in New York, securing the victory and the race for the title was on. The rollercoaster ride continued at the Hurley Pro at Lower Trestles, the site of many victories for Slater. Nothing changed, Slater took out Wright again as the tour shifted to Europe, where Slater put some more distance between himself and Wright. The European leg saw two Brazilians come away victorious. Rookie Gabriel Medina won the Quiksilver Pro in France, beating Slater in the quarterfinals. Wright finished with a ninth. At the Rip Curl Pro in Portugal, Adriano De Souza carried the torch for Brazil, beating Slater in heaving barrels in the final. Wright finished with a 13th. To secure his 11th ASP world title, Slater needs a ninth in San Francisco in November. Stay tuned.

SAT 26

9:08 4:32

6.95 -1.44

SUN 27

9:53 5:21

WETSAND SURF SHOP 446 E MAIN ST. VENTURA Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

6.58 -1.12

MON 28

10:40 6.04 6:12 -.68

TUE 29

WED 30

11:32 5.37 7:04 -.18

6:58 2.82 12:31 4.65

NOVEMBER 2011 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

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News

Parker Coffin Wins ASP 1-Star Fins Pro Junior

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Nate Tyler flying.

Garland and Tyler Take Titles at Still Frothy Contest By Shawn Tracht

HE WEEKEND of October 2 and 3, top Pro surfers from California and stand-out Torrey Meister from Hawaii trekked to Pismo Beach to add a heightened shredabilty to a normally mellow little town. Led by Pismo Beach’s legendary ex-pro surfer Walter Cerny, the Billabong Still Frothy Surf Contest banged the doors of contemporary surfing on the junior and Pro-Am levels. As the day for the contest approached the dense fog and lack of waves was becoming a major concern. However, as the fog cleared and a contestable little swell rolled in on both Saturday and Sunday the competitors were off to a great time. The tow-at “Air Challenge” on Saturday inspired all the groms to go big and RESULTS encouraged the pros to go even bigger on Sunday in 10 & Under: a contest that superseded last year’s event with more 1st - Ethan Gantenbein 2nd - Seth Scrogins divisions and more days. 3rd - Nicolas Fernandes For a front row view, many enthusiastic onlook11 to 14 (Boys) ers spent most of the contest in the water on the 1st - Conner Cudy 2nd - Jonah Pierce north side of the pier, playing the part of ADD 3rd - Willy Hogan surfers who kept pin-balling their attention back 15 to 17 (Boys) and forth from fun 3- to 4-foot glassy peaks to surf, 1st - Vinnie Leonelli to peering through the pier pylons at the tow-at “Air 2nd - Joel Wilke 3rd - Donovan Chung Challenge” and heats of great young surfers on the 17 & Under (Girls) south side of the pier. 1st - Arie Walas SLO County’s Nate Tyler’s surfing made me 2nd - Victoria Burke 3rd - Abby Neuman feel like I was watching a video game, but it was Hawaii’s Torrey Meister and Ventura’s wonder kid Pro-Am: 1st - Killian Garland -$1,000 Matt McCabe who won the tow-at Air Division and 2nd - Torrey Meister - $500 3rd - Nate Tyler - $250 brought home the $1,000 prize. Said Cerny about his event, “this had to be the most exciting contest I’ve ever seen on the Central Coast! And no disrespect to any contest prior, but on Saturday, Nate Tyler did one of the hugest airs I’ve witnessed in competition during the tow-at division. Then we had Torrey Meister and Kilian (Garland)!” In the Pro-Am final Meister threw huge fans of spray that were unmatched. Garland also stuck some amazing air reverses and took home the $1,000. The whole day of Pro-Am saw brilliant surfing from guys like Johnny Craft, Adam Virs, Josh Hoyer, Noi Kalukakui, Chad Eastman, Jason Harris, Bobby Okvist and a slew of others who didn’t even make the finals. Local Pismo Beach grom, Jonah Pierce represented his home turf as well, taking home second place to Conner Cudy in the 11- to 14-years-old boys division. PHOTOS FROM LEFT: ASP, CRAIG HAMLIN

ARKER COFFIN won his inaugural ASP Pro Junior victory on Sept. 18 in Belmar, New Jersey, where he posted the highest heat-total of the event in the finals, 15.57. Coffin, who finished runnerup at the Fins Pro Junior last year, quietly built momentum over the opening days of competition and eventually roared to life on the final day, belting the event’s highest single-wave score Parker Coffin won his inaugural ASP Pro of 8.33 in his semifinals heat. He Junior contest at Belmar, New Jersey. went on to take a commanding win in the final. “I got second last year so I knew I could win this year if I got good waves,” Coffin said. “It’s so funny because you can’t hear a word out in the lineup and I had no idea what my scores were. We were all stressing out there. I’m so fired up on this win though.”

Tidelines

True Ames = True Love Story and Photo by Michael Kew

HE TRUE AMES FINS TEAM has been developing fiberglass fins in the Santa Barbara/Goleta region since 1979. Known worldwide for its innovative designs and experimentation, True Ames is truly a heavyweight manufacturer in the oft-mysterious world of fins. For elucidation, we spoke with the company’s Brandon Read. DEEP: What’s new in the world of True Ames? Brandon Read: True Ames is flowing well! It’s the season of trade shows and we have just gotten back from the Surf Expo in Miami and are already prepping for our other trade show in Florida in January. As far as day-today goes, we are firing on all cylinders with a new website, a new blog, and, most importantly, new surf and SUP fins. DEEP: How has True Ames affected the fin industry? BR: True Ames has always been the underground staple in the surf industry. We have always prided ourselves with strong relationships with legendary shapers and making the best fins in the world for all realms of surfing. I believe our biggest impact in this industry is focusing on working with shapers and surfers alike in creating unique and innovative fins that work. Our fin quality is very important to us, and thus it leads us to extensive R&D (long surf hours). I feel we have been known in the surf industry for a while now as the place to produce one-off fin creations that can be available for all.

Local shaper Ryan Lovelace is like a kid in a candy store when he goes to True Ames.

new and creative fins. We predict that in the coming years we will be designing and marketing more fins for the SUP market, but we are also working with wood more and more to create lighter, stronger, and more responsive fins for all kinds of surfers out there. We get stoked each day we can make magical1fins10/21/11 that will 11:33 makePMthat magic board ride even Focus Ad.pdf more magical.

DEEP: What is the True Ames signature fin/model/style, and why? BR: We have a few signature True Ames fins, but right now one of our popular models is our Shallow Water Touring SUP fin. It was designed and developed right here in Santa Barbara for SUP riders who want to get through the kelp and weeds that the California coast is known for. The fin makes it so when you are going through a kelp bed, the kelp will glide right off the fin, creating almost no drag. It is a very strong glass construction with a long rake that makes it very difficult to damage or snap, and is the ideal fin for most SUP paddlers who like distance paddling and who need a board that tracks well. C

DEEP: Please run us through the process of manufacturing a fin. BR: Every fin starts with a drawing. Sometimes the designs come directly from us, but most times we will design new fins with a shaper or surfer. They come to us with an idea and then we work on bringing their ideas to a reality. All prototypes are handmade here in Santa Barbara by the owner of True Ames, Chuck Ames. He lays all the layers of glass and shapes the fin design himself. If the fin goes into production, we then ship it off to our contract manufacturers overseas and they hand-make every fin with the correct finish and logo. M

CMY

DEEP: Which are your top-selling fins? BR: For surfing, we have many. Our Greenough Stage 4A fin is very popular, or keel fish fins, our TA Cutaway fin, Heritage, California Classic, L-Flex, Velzy Classic, FCS and Future base tri and quad sets, small box fins, glass-on fins, bamboo, Bonzer, and Wayne Rich fins are all very popular. DEEP: What does the future hold for True Ames? BR: It is looking very strong. We are consistently evolving and designing

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Dropping In On Rich Phelps

The Silkworm Guy Story and Photos by Ryan A. Smith DEEP: How’ d you get into screenprinting? Rich Phelps: In the summertime, my mom would go down to Los Angeles to art conferences, and I was out of school and needed to be occupied. She would show me the different events that were happening, and there was screenprinting. With the enrollment, you got a screen, a squeegee and some basic inks. You got the know-how and the training in a couple-hour class. With those materials, I went home and started making shirts for myself and stickers and T-shirts for a local skateboard shop. I was 14, and that was pretty big for me. DEEP: When did you want to make it a career? RP: At the end of ’94, I really began to have a dream to start my own business. I was working for a screenprinting company and running their production. I did that for almost four years, and then my girlfriend told me, “You need to just do this on your own.” So I went home and we had a little family meeting, and they said, “If you two move in, we’ll rent you the garage.” That is how it started. I started Silkworm Screenprinting in 1995, January, the first day of the year. DEEP: You ran everything out of the garage? RP: Yes. Everything was manual; nothing at all was automated. It was just when computers in screenprinting were really starting to happen. I spent three years in the garage, and in the meantime, I was skateboarding for Black 29 Skateboards. And Black 29 Skateboards was just down the way from this factory we are in now. I was in my garage at the time, and (Black 29 and I) talked and decided to look into a building together. We both moved into this building in ’97. Then, probably about three years into being here, they started to slowly go out of business and I started taking over more and more of this shop. Once they finally went out of business, I had the entire, 2200-square-foot shop all to myself. We were just thriving; that was the big heyday of all the local surfboard shapers and everybody. It was kind of a Renaissance for shapers. DEEP: In the early years, how’ d you find customers? RP: When I left the other business I was running at the time, I let the boss know that I was not going after any of his customers with my new business. But once I left, they had a new employee that took over and started doing very poor work. For instance, when I was printing all the Channel Islands Surfboards laminates there, I would make new screens every time but the new employee wouldn’t make new screens. He would get pinhole blockages in his screens, print the jobs, and use a Sharpie marker to fill in all the spots. So, when the boards got glassed, the lams bled. Then they started losing customers left and right, and those customers would find me. Plus, I was a big surfer at The Point at the time, promoting my business and talking to all the shapers, so people got to know me by my surfing and skateboarding. As the business grew, I stopped skateboarding and surfing as much, but now people know me as “Silkworm Guy.” So it has sort of transitioned from being a board rider to being a board member. [Laughs.] DEEP: Who do you work with in the Tri-County area? RP: We have a great, core customer base that keeps us busy year-round. We do Roberts, Wayne Rich, a lot of stuff with Beach House, Yater, Sex Wax, A-Frame, Back Nine, Barfoot, Blueline, Cooperfish, Marc Andreini, McLoud, Momentum, FCD, Pierpont, Proctor, Revolution, Rincon Designs, Sueño, Steve Brom, SLIDE Magazine, Third World, True Ames, Surf Brewery, Ventura Surf Club, Zeph Carrigg, and surf camps from Malibu up to Northern Cal.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

DEEP: What’s your niche? RP: A lot of screenprinters don’t want to work with the air-dry inks because they’re really hard to work with; they dry fast and you have to work very quickly. I’m looking at about 20 years of printing with air-dry, and I have my own systems, design my own tables, my own vacuum and hinge tables, all my presses I built myself except for the T-shirt stuff. DEEP: Your client list goes from small companies to huge corporations. RP: Yes, and everyone gets the same attention to detail, and everyone gets the same attention. We have the storefront here, so people come in walking off the street. They like to physically sit down and talk, go over the artwork Phelps standing behind his work. on the computer with me sitting next to them. I’m the one who talks to all the customers. I’m the guy answering the phone. I’m the one who’s the face of the company. When you call Silkworm, you’re going to get me on the phone. DEEP: I know you are big on helping the youth. RP: For the local surf clubs, high school surf teams, all the surf camps, we always try to help out anything that has to do with kids, because usually those programs are under-funded. We always donate our artwork, our time, our screens, all of our setups. DEEP: The quality of work seems paramount for Silkworm. RP: Absolutely, yes. All the stuff that we do is actually hand-pulled silkscreen, so each piece of laminate is literally artwork. It’s not computer-generated, there’s no fancy way of producing this stuff; it is old-fashioned silkscreen, hand-pulled, one color at a time. Each color is air-dried. The majority of everything we do is a smaller run of 25-50 sheets and it’s all handmade on rice paper that we order straight from Japan. DEEP: What sets Silkworm apart from the others? RP: There’s no one in our Tri-County area, that I know of, who create laminates. There may be a couple guys around doing digital ones, or some off their printers onto rice paper, but it’s one-off stuff and it’s not hand-pulled art. Since we are doing it all the old-school way, it stands out much better on a surfboard, looks more professional. Visit Silkworm onlin at www.silkwormscreenprinting.com

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Dropping In On Johnny McCann

Gobernador Rock Story and Photo by Michael Kew

URKING LOCALLY with his 27-year-old Gibson 335 Professional Deluxe guitar, 28-year-old Johnny McCann has released “DraggleMe Musscrash,” his first solo album. Naturally, DEEP hung with the smiling Southerner-cum-Gobernador Canyonite for a wee chat. DEEP: Your beginnings? Johnny McCann: Born in West Palm Beach, Fla. Moved to Boulder, Colo. From Boulder I moved to New York, then to Birmingham, Ala., then to Gulf Shores, Ala. I learned to surf in Montauk, N.Y., where my dad lived. I was there each summer. Lifeguarded and really got into surfing. I played guitar the whole time because my mom was a musician. DEEP: What sent you to Santa Barbara in 2008? JM: Getting more into my artistic side as far as music and surfing was concerned. People here actually care about art and surfing. In Alabama, it’s like, “Yeah, you’re a musician and you’re good but you might as well give up now because you’re never going to do anything with it.” It’s so small there. Yeah, you can play in bars forever, which is cool—I don’t mind doing that. Making people shake their butts on the dance floor is awesome. I love that feeling. But people in Alabama are hard on you. And the surf there really isn’t that good. It was frustrating being a surfer on the Gulf Coast. Living here has gotten me furthest from the aggressive side of guitar-playing and more into melody and a soulful style of reverb surf guitar. Not like Dick Dale or anybody—just melodic, mellow guitar. Santa Barbara has got me into being able to feel a whole note and to hit a note and let it ring and really feel it. It’s such a beautiful place and I’ve enjoyed setting my gear up on mountaintops and hitting a one note and letting it ring. DEEP: Who are “The Groove Ons?” JM: The Groove Ons are myself and Travers Adler playing mellow, melodic jams at little events around town. We’ve played at Channel Islands, at J7, played several times at The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf. DEEP: Detail your creative process. JM: You know how when you’re surfing and random songs get stuck in your head? For me, when that happens I sing the same chorus over and over again. But sometimes I’ll write one of my own, and I’ll sing that same chorus over and over again in my head until it becomes a whole song, a whole piece of music. I’ll stay out in the water and catch waves, even if it’s bad, just so I can think about that one line. And sometimes I’ll even start singing it out loud, and other people get it stuck in their heads. It’s kind of a weird way to test stuff. DEEP: Define “DraggleMe Musscrash.” JM: It’s something I created one day while playing with words. I drive around a lot for work—I do installations for Budget Blinds. I listen to the radio, but the radio makes me mad sometimes, so I turn it off and get into long thought processes. That’s where a lot of my creative energy comes from. DEEP: How’ d the album form? JM: From me having songs and nothing to do with them. I had 20 songs that I could play, but there was no goal. So I decided to take those songs, record them, make them sound the way I wanted them to, put them on a disc, and see what happened. The songs were anywhere from three years to six months old. When I moved to Santa Barbara, I wrote five songs right off the bat. I was so inspired. We got great waves that winter and I was surfing a lot. The more I

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Johnny McCann cutting back between strumming.

surfed, the more I wrote music. Two of the songs were inspired by a couple of tragic deaths. The other songs came from living a happy life and being in a good place. The album was inspired by my mom because she always pressed me to put music out there. There is no reason not to. If you have songs, put them out. It’s not going to hurt. Check out McCann at 3coasts.wordpress.com or johnnymccann.blogspot.com.

“DraggleMe Musscrash” cd cover.

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La ke y with her qu

iver.

: l u o S r e t Saltwa

d n a l y e k a L o t n i e s p m i l g A

n spite of their complexity, some things, like the arc of the sun across the sky, are fairly predictable. Such has been the competitive career of Santa Barbara’s young Lakey Peterson, who at 16, has set the bar at a height not seen since Tom Curren did something very similar at the same age. Peterson was born at Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital in September of 1994, the youngest of three children to mother Sue, a competitive swimmer, and father David, a competitive athlete as well. Water runs in the Peterson family and flows in various facets through the lives of each member. So it is no surprise that Lakey would learn to surf at the age of five on a trip to Australia. Everyone remembers their first wave. Lakey’s was at Manly Beach on a bodyboard. And of course like many watermen and women, she was already a fish. In fact, many call her the Lakeyfish, a longstanding indicator of her relationship with the ocean. The sea is at once a home and a place of challenge and fun. It is a thread one sees in every really great surfer’s life. This year has been a very hectic one for the Peterson family. I get emails from David Peterson, a lot of them. The intriguing thing about David’s emails—aside from a note in his signature about his grandfather, Herb Peterson, the inventor of the McDonald’s Egg McMuffin—is from where the emails hail from. Everywhere, literally. Lakey has been on a rather unusual track for a pretty 16-year-old. She has been pursuing amateur surfing titles, but curiously enough, has also attempted to gain enough points to qualify to surf the CT (contest tour) of the ASP Women’s global tour.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

At the forefront of women’s surfing. Lakey bustin’ loose at the U.S. Open.

What makes this especially difficult is the same thing that makes Lakey successful: she has perspective. Talk to her, and you will find an enthusiasm for just about everything. A multi-sport athlete, she excels at everything. She loves her school, Alta Vista High School, where she is enrolled in home schooling classes, allowing for travel flexibility. She loves her friends and her home break, Hammonds Reef, which is a short walk from the family’s charming Montecito cottage. She sees the larger picture of life and has managed to avoid the tunnel vision that plagues many child prodigies in sports, arts, whatever. Everyone knows the type, and has read of the meteoric rise which frequently ends in trouble or a stalled career, as the child struggles as an adult, with never having just been a kid. The Petersons have managed all of that as a family. It is impressive and an imperative: knowing to guard against the lure of fame. I have known the Petersons for a while. It is with great regard and respect, that I have watched the rise of this young lady’s career. It became meteoric in nature this year when, at the U.S. Open of Surfing, Lakey had one of those dream events. I had watched the live webcast of the iconic event at Huntington Beach. I laughed as I saw Mike Lamm, Lakey’s coach, caught on camera, clipboard in hand, staring out to sea. I know what that felt like. Lamm is one astute waterman and character. I met him when I was a board builder and had just come off the ASP tour and was surfing a few PSAA events, where he was a title holder. We collaborated on a design series of boards sold out of his Malibu-based shop to a large number of talented, up-and-coming surfers.

PHOTOS: DAVID PU’U, ASP ROWLAND

By David Pu u

Mountain Air Sports

WHERE FUN STARTS!

PHOTO: DAVID PETERSON, DAVID PU’U

From left: A triumphant Lakey. Carving a different medium.

At the Huntington event, Lakey was surfing for a Junior Women’s title, and she had also secured a wild card slot in the Professional Women’s Division as well. The event was a six-star, the highest rated of all ASP events, allowing for the maximum amount of ratings points for the winners. Cutting to the meat of the event and results, Lakey ran roughshod through the Junior field straight through to the final and a title win in a near perfect tactical and performance blend of power and acrobatics that is becoming her signature and trademark. (I did see Mike, on camera, pace a couple circles.) The Women’s Pro challenge went similarly, and I watched with curiousity, as Lakey exhibited a maturity and discipline that reminded me of Kelly Slater’s. I was stunned actually. Having been involved in the development of a lot of remarkable surfers’ careers, I realized that I was seeing something far more impressive than an “air to reverse” in the critical part of the wave at a key moment in the heat. I was witnessing control. The same sort of cognitive state one sees from a master chess or poker player. And this one was a laughing, smiling 16-year-old. Consider that. It is unusual to say the least. As Lakey beat her friend, Carissa Moore (the new Women’s World Champion), in two out of the two heats they had together, you could see the arc approaching noon, such was the obvious brilliance of the moment. It was intriguing watching the final as Sally Fitzgibbons narrowly bested Lakey to take the win. It sort of felt like Lakey wanted it to be that way. A few days later at a homecoming and victory party at the Peterson home, Lamm and I got to catch up, and he told me what it had been like when he and Lakey, at a key moment, had been standing at water’s edge watching and he said, “Hey, Lakey, look out there. Can you feel it? That presence?” He was referring to the softly undulating ocean awaiting her. Mike said Lakey looked out and simply said: “Yeah, I feel it.” She does. It is what makes her different than many. I have seen Tom Curren do this, as well as Kelly Slater, Bobby Martinez, Dane Reynolds, Kim Mearig, Dave Smith and many of the phenomenal surfers and athletes who have come through the Gold Coast proving grounds. You have to feel the ocean. It is either a part of you, like the blood in your veins, or it is not. Here is a segment from this morning’s note by Dave Peterson from the searoad. “Yo Dave, we are traveling to Azores. Lakey had a bummer in Spain, beautiful beach painting, but ugh one of those gut wrenchers … She did however make the CT. Off to Azores to put a bow on it. Thanks again for your support. This sport has high highs and low lows ... Sounds like life.”

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Ladies Room

Choices, a Woman’s Best Friend By Nicole de Leon Hailey Partridge, enjoying the fruit of being one of two women in the former all men’s team at Hobie International. Ventura Coast.

DOWN ALONG PADARO Emily Elledge, the women’s buyer at A-Frame Surf Shop in Carpinteria is part of a family of employees, which include the always-smiling ownerbrothers Sam and Rob Holcombe. This happy, core crew, who is always there to greet you at the door, has a lot to offer women in terms of gear and suggestions. Billabong, Xcel, Da Kine and O’Neill are just some of the brands catering towards women at A-Frame. Xcel has a toasty, silky-soft 4/3-mil zipper-less wetsuit for women and Billabong has recently introduced different styles and cuts of wetsuits to cater to different body types and styles. They also offer a variety of short boards, including Lost, Fletcher Chouinard Designs, and J7 as well as Takayama and Wayne Rich long boards. The “best prices and genuine customer service” is what Elledge promises at A-Frame. Clearly this is the case, as the shop has not only loyal customers but also loyal team riders that include Lakey Peterson, Isabelle Radis, Aubrey Falk and Liz Clark.

JUST STEPS FROM THE SAND Farther north, Jeremy Woodul, veteran floor manager at the Beach House in Santa Barbara, also speaks highly of his surf shop. This large and well-located shop carries updated wetsuits by O’Neill, Rip Curl and soon Roxy. For tail pads, Beach House carries a variety of patterns and colors from Pro Lite, Dakine and OAM to name a few. They have a bountiful board selection for women that include shapers such as Yater, Fineline, Firewire and Anderson.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Upon arriving at this shop one notices the plethora of employees buzzing around cheerfully. What makes their shop awesome is that they treat a surfer like a surfer regardless of gender or age. They also have the largest selection of surf apparel and swimwear in the Tri-County area. As far as women’s wetsuits go, Woodul recommends the Psycho 2 from O’Neill and the G-Bomb from Rip Curl. Rip Curl also has a new insulator called Flash Dry that is super warm and will dry out of the water in 15 minutes. So whether a woman wants to get lost in their colorful clothing selection or go straight for their most legit wetsuits, this store is a great choice.

UP FROM THE POINT Darren Douglas, manager and buyer of Ventura Surf Shop in Ventura, is more than happy to point his customers in the right direction. On a regular basis this shop carries women’s surf gear by O’Neill, Roxy and Rip Curl as well as smaller long boards and fun shapes that are designed for women. To brighten up the quiver, they carry Creatures’ “Steph Gilmore tail pad” and also colorful women’s leashes. They also offer a surfer-line of skin care including lotions that aid in preserving a woman’s skin. So why should a female choose Ventura Surf Shop? Douglas feels that “any surfer should choose Ventura Surf Shop for their selection of product as well as expert, honest and friendly service.”

ALONG THE MAIN DRAG A little further down the road in Ventura you will find the family owned, art-filled Wetsand Surf Shop. Shannon Menzel, daughter of owners Chuck and Candy, is an artist and surfer herself who has helped set up a fashionforward and boutique-y shop that offers a variety of women’s gear. Menzel explained that they carry Simm’s boards, shaped by Joe Baugess, which are great for women because they are “small thick little nuggets that are easy to paddle and get into waves, but surf really fast and turn well.” This year Wetsand is offering a top-of-the-line soy-based Matuse wetsuit, which is guaranteed to keep women warm and cozy. On top of this, they offer clothing from Freepeople, RVCA, Quicksilver Women and more. All and, all this shop is doted on by its loving owners and they clearly do the same with their customers. So ladies, this winter you have many options for surf gear up and down our local coastline. And what woman doesn’t love choices?

PHOTO: DAVID PU’U

ALK INTO a surf shop in the year 2011 and you will see colorful varieties of wetsuits, boards, swim-gear and accessories designed primarily for ocean-loving women. Girls no longer have to wriggle themselves into boys wetsuits with the excess fabric bunching in the shoulders like a 1980’s business suit. Nor do they have to wear long baggy board shorts meant for the narrow-hipped rippers. Surf shops have become more and more welcoming to women, with plenty of friendly faces to guide them toward the newest women’s brand of surf gear. Top surf companies are introducing women’s wetsuits and branching out to create stylish wetsuits and accessories. With water temps down to a toe-tingling 59 degrees and wave energy starting to pulse, where should a local girl go to find the best gear for the fall?

Ladies Room

PHOTOS: NUÑO

A-FRAME

Eat, Shop & Surf

From left, Sam and Rob Holcome, Erik Edwards and Emily Elledge are always there to great you with a smile.

DowntownVentura.org

Dec. 3, 6 p.m. - FREE Holiday Tree Lighting at the Historic Mission Dec. 3, 4-8 pm - Winter Wine Walk throughout Downtown ($40) PHOTOS: JP GARCIA / WWW.SANTABARBARASEALS.COM

BEACH HOUSE

Aloha Beautiful

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First time customers $10 Off first Custom Spray Tan Spray Tanning, Swimwear, Casual Wear

28 S. California St. • 805-648-swim

The Beach House is filled top to bottom with everything you need.

PHOTOS: NUÑO

VENTURA SURF SHOP

From left, Rob Hubina, Darren Douglas, Morgan Brown, Matt Riley and Scott Delzell are all part of the VSS crew that is ready to help you out.

WETSAND

PHOTOS: DAVID PU’U

Ventura’s ONLY Restaurant & Brewery

The crew from Wetsand are eager to help you make your best choice.

Come in and enjoy one of our Mouth watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap Appetizers, Lunch & Dinner Open Daily, 11:30 am 472 E. Main Street 805-643-2337 W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

An unknown surfer enjoys winters reward—Cold water, offshore winds and solid surf.

IT’S A GOOD THING SURFERS HAVE

SAT ON MY SURFBOARD in the water slouching my back to the crisp offshore winds, watching Bruce Swanson down the beach duck dive under another closeout and paddle beyond the breakers. He wedged himself onto his board, cocked his head to the side, stuck his arms out, and shook his head. Then he stopped and pressed his hand over his ear. Warm under my hood, I turned back to the horizon, scoping the next set.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Great waves were hitting our favorite sandbar, but our buddy Kelsey Hoult was missing out on this session in Estero Bay. He was in the operating room in Orange County. Hoult left Arizona for the Central Coast two years ago to surf. We would be surfing all weekend and despite the cold conditions, he did not bother to wear a hood. He never wore one throughout all those years surfing Columbia River Gorge, Oregon, in his teens either.

It was not long before he noticed he was having difficulty clearing water from his ears after a surf. Then he noticed it happening every time he surfed. Hoult’s ears were becoming plugged, trapping dead skin, sand, water, and anything else in the local sea water. Unbeknownst to him at the time, he was displaying an early symptom of exostosis, or “surfer’s ear.” And in Hoult’s case, it set in fast.

JEFF PFOST

Walt Cerny never surfs without his earplugs.

TIPS FROM DR. JACKSON ON PROTECTING YOUR EARS: • Alcohol removes the bodyís necessary natural skin oils and ear wax; donít put it in your ear. That includes mouthwash (true story). There are blow dryers available which are fitted with comfortable ear tips to dry out ears after a surf session. • Over-the-counter preparations for wax removal can trigger allergic reactions with painful blisters. • The odd practice of candling can push wax deeper where the ear cannot extrude it.

• Don’t use cotton swabs or a washcloth and soap to “clean your ears.” KELSEY HOULT

• If your ears itch, don’t use cotton swabs, bobby pins or pens to scratch them.

ONLY TWO EARS Strangely enough, surfer’s ear is actually the body trying to protect itself. Face it, the human ear doesn’t like water and wind, so it builds a wall of cartilage in the canal just before the eardrum. This narrowing of the ear canal is called “stenosis.” Left untreated, exostosis in the ear canal leads to infections, swelling, discomfort, a notso-pleasant odor and ear drainage. Failure to treat a worsening condition can go so far as to

By Arnold Feher

result in a staph infection or meningitis. “I went from my ears feeling fine to getting water stuck in a matter of weeks,” said Hoult. After surfing through summer, Hoult suffered an ear infection in October. “It feels like you’re sick,” Hoult said. “Your head is pressurized the whole time you’re surfing. It’s no fun.” He saw a doctor in San Luis Obispo who uttered the term “surfer’s ear.” A second doctor

confirmed what the first had said: Hoult had an advanced case of exostosis. Surgery. Hoult felt that cold, dirty Oregon water wash over him again like the northerly storm swells from his youth. How many times he paddled out into the rivermouth, braving the thick, icy shorebreak without a hood. He went home for a week and researched exostosis online. He learned that good-fitting

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

earplugs are the best defense, but even a hood helps. He read horror stories of patients who had surgery on their ears. Some described how the doctor sliced into the back of their ears with a scalpel, folded the whole thing forward like a tortilla, and drilled a hole through the bone. He read stories told by Australian surfers whose surgery had gone wrongóthe doctor touched a facial nerve, causing half the patient’s face to collapse and an eye to go blind. “I’d rather be dead!” wailed the victim. “This is not something to be done by the cheapest doctor you can find,” thought Hoult. One night, Hoult read about another, newer procedure involving a laser. He also found Dr. Carol Jackson from Orange County and made an appointment. Dr. Jackson runs an office in Newport and only uses a modern technique, which is performed completely through the ear canal without an incision behind the ear. An outpatient surgery requiring only general anesthesia, it usually has patients returning to their normal, land-based activities in one or two days,

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Jackson explained. Surfing is resumed within two months, but it takes up to a year for the ear canal to completely heal. Later in October, Hoult drove down to Newport. Dr. Jackson sat him down in front of a TV monitor, snaked a fiber-optic filament microscope and camera into his ear, and for the first time Hoult was staring right into his ear canal. It took but a glimpse for both of them to see that Hoult had 95 percent closure of his right ear. His left ear was slightly better at 90 percent. “The whole thing was totally closed and there was a pinhole for sound to get through,” he described. Dr. Jackson snapped a few photos of his infected ear canal then scheduled an appointment for the surgery to take placeóin nine months. “She didn’t act like there was any mystery at all,” he said. “She told me ëwax is your friend!’ Your ear wax is actually a water repellent, and like you wouldn’t strip the wax off your car and take it to the beach, you don’t want to strip the wax from your ears either.” Full of knowledge about ear holes, Hoult waited for June. He returned to Newport for his

KELSEY HOULT

first surgery. It was to be one of two. The left ear would have to wait for later in the year. June arrived, and Hoult showed up on time at Dr. Jackson’s office. He was shown a changing room where he had to put on “a gown with your ass hanging right out.” He was offered but declined anti-anxiety medication. Then, nurses took a blood sample and lay him on a bed hooked up to an I.V. Dr. Jackson entered the room. She had on her game face. She was wearing scrubs and looked entirely different than the first office visit. “Umm,” Hoult stammered, “I think I am going to need those meds after all.” Once relaxed, Hoult watched the anesthetic trickle down the tube into his vein. Dr. Jackson inserted acupuncture needles into his cheeks and forehead and hooked them up to a computer to monitor his facial nerves. Kelsey laughed, “The last thing I remember is announcing, ëYeah so I feel this is a good team, girls! We’re gonna take care of this thingóthis is great!’” “Alright, you’re done!” Dr. Jackson was singing already.

PHOTOS BY:

Piercing Central Coast winds are no friends to your ears.

JEFF PFOST

Matt Gallagher hooded and protected.

A CAUTIONARY TALE

A) A healthy looking eardrum.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

A 28-year-old man was B) Pre-procedure. Eardrum is barely plugged in one ear with visible behind bone growth. hearing loss for years and so fearful of needing surgery that he waited until the other ear was completely plugged for weeks and painful before seeking medical attention. We all celebrated when we “uncorked” his ears in the office! He had small exostoses but impacted inch-long solid wads of cotton fibers and bits of foam and wax mixed with sand, skin and his own dried wax. It took two hours to remove the virtual casts of his canals but he was happy, and I neither saw nor heard from him again. I figured the impactions acted like earplugs, but that’s not a recommended way to go! We gave him some silicone ear plugs to try instead. – Dr. Carol Jackson

Revolution

As soon as the anesthetic haze wore off enough to stand on two feet, Hoult was driven back to a hotel room by his wife, and he slept for eight hours. He stayed out of the water for two months, and the ocean, as if sensing Hoult’s condition, stayed flat, too. But it wasn’t long before autumn arrived bringing avalanches of swell from the north, and we were surfing together again. That is, until todayóthe day of Hoult’s second surgery. I phoned him yesterday, and he sounded good. “I’ll be so stoked when it’s over with! I go down on Wednesday to get worked,” he said, relief audible in his voice, but there was a pause before he continued. “I feel like I was let down by surfing: I was buying wetsuits and booties and other stuff; why wasn’t there anybody telling me to buy a hood?” Boy, did Hoult learn a lesson and teach his friends one at a time. We all bought hoods, and the smarter ones have gotten our ears checked by a doctor. Now when Hoult is receiving the rinse-cycle treatment by the Pacific, he’s got a double defense: a hood and neon green earplugs. Which isn’t what Swanson is wearing, I think. I turn my board and scratch for the sky as he continues to pound the side of his head with his fist. He doesn’t see that set coming. Dr. Jackson does not recommend waiting to see a doctor if you experience the symptoms of surfer’s ear. This article contains general information and is not medical advice to any particular individual or a substitute for an examination and treatment by a physician. W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

everything your one stop surf shop. Serving Goleta for over 14 years.

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Hugh Cook, 13 Shaping his ﬁrst board

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GUIDE

2011

GEAR & WETSUIT

GUIDE BACKPACKS

1- Herschel Supply Backpacks �� STARTING AT $45.00 Available at: WETSAND SURF SHOP (Ventura)

www.wsurf.com

2- Oakley Surf Pack �� $100.00

Available at: www.oakley.com

BELTS

3- Van’s Skate Belt �� $17.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com

7-11

BIKE ACCESSORIES

4- Bontrager Front Basket �� $79.99 Available at: TREK BIKES OF VENTURA www.trekbikesofventura.com 5- Peterboro Wicker Basket (multiple colors) �� $50.00 Available at: TREK BIKES OF VENTURA www.trekbikesofventura.com 6- Bern Helmet �� STARTING AT $44.99 Available at: TREK BIKES OF VENTURA www.trekbikesofventura.com

LIGHTS

7- Redline (220 illuminums) Light �� $39.99 8- Cateye Taillight �� $29.99 9- NiteRider Cherrybomb Light ��$34.99 10- Bontrager Glo Headlight �� $12.99 11- Bontrager Ember Taillight �� $12.99

Available at: TREK BIKES OF VENTURA www.trekbikesofventura.com

BOARD BAGS

12- Stand Up Paddle Sports SUP Bags �� STARTING AT $150 Available at: STAND UP PADDLE SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.surfingsports.com 13- Wave Tribe Global (Hemp) �� $112.95 Available at: SHELL BEACH SURF SHOP, RIDER SHACK (L.A.), BIRD’S SURF SHED (S.D.)

14- Wave Tribe Skull P.E.T. Hemp Sock �� $29.95 Available at: SHELL BEACH SURF SHOP, RIDER SHACK (L.A.), BIRD’S SURF SHED (S.D.) 15- Wave Tribe Pioneer (Hemp) �� $89.95 Available at: SHELL BEACH SURF SHOP, RIDER SHACK (L.A.), BIRD’S SURF SHED (S.D.)

18 14

BOOTIES

16- Body Glove Vapor Booties ��STARTING AT $59.99 Available at: J7 SURF SHOP (Santa Barbara), ONE WAY BOARD SHOPS, ESTEEM SURF CO. (Pismo Beach) www.bodyglove.com 17- O’Neill Psychofreak ST Boot (3.5 mm) �� $72.95 Available at: www.oneill.com 18- O’Neill Women’s MOD ST Boot (3mm) �� $54.95 Available at: www.oneill.com 19- Quiksilver Ignite Boot �� $49.95 Available at: www.quiksilver.com

CAMERAS

20- Canon T3 �� STARTING AT $550.00 Available at: DEXTER’S CAMERA (Ventura) www.dexterscamera.com

21- Contour Roam HP Video Camera ��$199.00 22- Contour Roam Water Housing �� $29.99 Available at: DEXTER’S CAMERA (Ventura) www.dexterscamera.com

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE 2011

23- GoPro HD Surf Hero Waterproof Camera �� $269.00 Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com, WETSAND SURF SHOP (Ventura) www.WSurf.com DECALS / STICKERS 24

24- We Are California Grown CA Roots Decal ��$8.00 Available at: www.wearecaliforniagrown.com 25- Local Bio-Sticky Sticker ��FREE Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com 26- We Are California Grown Bear State Sticker ��$3.00 Available at: www.wearecaliforniagrown.com

DECKPADS

27- Stand Up Paddle Sports Pads ��$99.00 Available at: STAND UP PADDLE SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.surfingsports.com 28- Wave Tribe Cork Deckpad �� $37.95 Available at: SHELL BEACH SURF SHOP, RIDER SHACK (L.A.), BIRD’S SURF SHED (S.D.) DRYBAGS

29- Surf to Summit Duffle Drybag �� $112.00 Available at: STAND UP PADDLE SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.surfingsports.com ELECTRONICS

30- Mac Computer Repair and 8mm to video transfers �� PRICES VARY Available at: DEXTER’S CAMERA (Ventura) www.dexterscamera.com 34 29

FINS

31- FCS DHD-2 and JW-1 �� $31.99 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura) www.homegrownsurfshop.com 32- FCS H-3 Nexus �� $110.00 Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com 33- Futures FMB3 and Rob Machado Carbon Bamboow �� $76.99 AND $107.99 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura) www.homegrownsurfshop.com

34- Wardog Bamboo Core Fins

(4”, 5”, 6.5” center fins. 4”, 5”, FCS & Futures) �� STARTING AT $45.00 Available at: STAND UP PADDLE SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.surfingsports.com 35

FLANNELS

35- Rip Curl County Line Flannel ��$49.50 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura) 36- Rip Curl Rebellion Flannel �� $74.50 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura)

36 27

GLOVES

37- O’Neill DL Psycho Glove 1.5mm ��$46.95 Available at: www.oneill.com HACKEY SACK

38- Element Tree Hacky Sack �� $7.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com HANDPLANE

39- Nine Lights Surfboards Paulownia ��$78.00 38

Available at: WETSAND SURF SHOP (Ventura) www.WSurf.com

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

GEAR HATS / HEADWEAR

40- Azhiaziam “Lighter Logo” Flexfit Embroid. Hat �� $21.95

Available at: AZHIAZIAM SURF SHOP (Morro Bay) www.azhiaziam.com

41- Azhiaziam Records / Bootsie Merango Hat �� $14.95 Available at: AZHIAZIAM SURF SHOP (Morro Bay) www.azhiaziam.com 42- Matt Moore Fitted Hat ��$22.50 Available at: RINCON DESIGNS (Carpinteria) 43- We Are California Grown Silhoutte Roots Hat ��$28.00 Available at: www.wearecaliforniagrown.com

42 43

HOOD

44- O’Neill Gooru RG8 (Regenerate) Hoodie �� $39.95 (1.5MM) Available at: www.oneill.com 45

JACKETS

45- Focus PolyTechJacket (iPod Holder / Eyelet in Welt Pocket) �� $59.95 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura), REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.FocusApparel.com

Paddle Surf Hawaii

46- Patagonia Down Sweater Hoody ��$250.00 Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com 47- Rip Curl Chill Kill Jacket �� $79.50 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura)

Werner

JEANS

48- Local 100% Hemp Jeans �� $100.00 Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com LEASHES

49- Famous Timmy Curran Comp Leash �� $21.5.0 Available at: www.famouswax.com 50- Wave Tribe Recycled �� $21.95 Available at: SHELL BEACH SURF SHOP, RIDER SHACK (L.A.), BIRD’S SURF SHED (S.D.)

PADDLES

51- Carbonerro, Kialoa, Paddle Surf Hawaii, Quickblade, Werner ��$229.00 – $339.00

Quikblade

Available at: BLUELINE STAND UP PADDLE SURF (Santa Barbara) www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com PHONE COVER

52- Volcom Phone Cover ��$22.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com

Carbonerro 47

Kialoa

RACKS

53- Stand Up Paddle Sports Roof Rack ��$25.00 – $30.00 Available at: STAND UP PADDLE SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.surfingsports.com 54- Surf Country Roof Racks ��$45.99 Available at: SURF COUNTRY (Goleta) www.surfcountry.net 55- Thule Car Racks �� STARTING AT $110.00 Available at: TREK BIKES OF VENTURA www.trekbikesofventura.com 56- Thule Locking SUP Taxi �� $199.95 Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com

RASHGUARD

57- Hyperfreak RG8 Glide L/S Crew ��$89.95 (1.5MM) Available at: www.oneill.com SANDALS / SHOES

58- Oakley O-Strap Sandals ��$25.00 Available at: www.oakley.com

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GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE 2011 66

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59- Olukai Paniolo Sandals �� $92.95 Available at: FLIP FLOP SHOPS (Santa Barbara) www.flipflopshops.com 60- Rainbow W’s Thin-Strap Dark Brown Sandals �� $47.95 Available at: FLIP FLOP SHOPS (Santa Barbara) www.flipflopshops.com 61- Sanuk Carpe DM ��$66.95 Available at: FLIP FLOP SHOPS (Santa Barbara) www.flipflopshops.com 62- Sanuk Pickpocket ��$62.95 Available at: FLIP FLOP SHOPS (Santa Barbara) www.flipflopshops.com 63- Sanuk Beer Cozy Series (Men and Women) �� $31.95 Available at: BEACH BREAK SURF SHOP (VENTURA) 64- Uggs (Short Classic) �� $139.95 Available at: SURF CONNECTION (Lompoc) www.surfconnection.net SHIRTS

65- Arbor Recycle Tee (Made Using Bamboo) �� $29.00 60

Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (Santa Barbara) www.arborcollective.com 66- Epmov (50% of shirt sales support worldwide projects) ��$20.00 Available at: www.epmov.com 67- Focus Buttons �� $23.95 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura), REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.FocusApparel.com 68- Focus Feathers Racerbank Tank �� $29.95 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura), REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.FocusApparel.com 69- Goleta The Goodland ��$20.00 Available at: SURF COUNTRY (Goleta) www.surfcountry.net 70- Haskells Tee’s ��$20.00 Available at: SURF COUNTRY (Goleta) www.surfcountry.net 71- Local Organic “Local Sunset” Tee ��$20.00 Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com

72- Local Organic “Dark Surf “Tee ��$20.00

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Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com 73- Rip Curl Sign Paint Tee �� $24.00 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura) 74- Surf Brewery Girls County Line Rye �� $18.00 Available at: SURF BREWERY (Ventura) www.surfbrewery.com 75- Surf Brewery Dude �� $15.00 Available at: SURF BREWERY (Ventura) www.surfbrewery.com 76- Surf Brewery South Swell Zip Hoodie ��$38.00 Available at: SURF BREWERY (Ventura) www.surfbrewery.com 77- We Are CA Grown Youth Roots Silhoutte �� $15.00 Available at: www.wearecaliforniagrown.com 78- Beach Break Surf Shop Shirts �� $19.95 Available at: BEACH BREAK SURF SHOP (VENTURA)

Option 1

Option 2

79- Old Guys Rule Shirts �� $21.50 Available at: BEACH BREAK SURF SHOP (VENTURA) SHORTS / TRUNKS

80- Rip Curl MIrage Boardwalk Shorts �� $59.50 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura)

81- Oakley Blades Trunks �� $110.00 Available at: www.oakley.com

82- Oakley D-Wayne’s Game Trunks ��$60.00 Available at: www.oakley.com

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

GEAR SKATEBOARDS

83- Arbor Rally Cork Skateboard �� $149.50 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com

84- Arbor Mission Koa Skateboard �� $169.50 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com

85- Arbor Axis Koa Skateboard �� $199.50 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com 86- Carver Skateboard �� $197.00 Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com 87- Death Wish Christmas Board ��$49.00 Available at: OJAI BOARD SHOP (Ojai) www.ojaiboardshop.com 88- Dregs Cruiser �� $175.00 Available at: SURF COUNTRY (Goleta) www.surfcountry.net 89- Dusters Speed Demon Cruiser �� $99.95 Available at: SURF CONNECTION (Lompoc) www.surfconnection.net 90- Gravity 41” Makos �� $174.99 Available at: SURF COUNTRY (Goleta) www.surfcountry.net 91- Penny Skateboard �� $100.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com 92- Rookie Fame ��$49.00 Available at: OJAI BOARD SHOP www.ojaiboardshop.com 93- Santa Cruz Big Foot �� $130.00 Available at: OJAI BOARD SHOP www.ojaiboardshop.com

SKIS

94- Armada JJ’s �� $674.99

Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com SNOWBOARDS

95- Arbor Westmark Snowboard �� $419.99 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com 96- Arbor Swoon Snowboard (Women’s) �� $439.99 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com 97- Arbor Element Snowboard �� $549.99 Available at: ARBOR SKATEBOARDS (S.B.) www.arborcollective.com 98- Burton Nug �� $399.00 Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com

90 91

98 94

SUNGLASSES

Top

99- Oakley Dispatch II �� $160.00 Available at: www.oakley.com

100- Oakley Jupiter Squared �� $120.00 Available at: www.oakley.com 101- Quiksilver The Ferris ��$99.00 Available at: www.quiksilver.com 102- Von Zipper Metal Stache, Polarized �� $110.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com

99 100

SWEATSHIRTS

Bottom

103- Azhiaziam “Rasta Star” Pullover Hooded ��$40.00 Available at: AZHIAZIAM SURF SHOP (Morro Bay)

101 102

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE 2011 www.azhiaziam.com

104- Azhiaziam Sherpa Zip-Up Hooded ��$48.00 Available at: AZHIAZIAM SURF SHOP (Morro Bay) www.azhiaziam.com 105- Blueline Zip-Up Hoodie ��$50.00 Available at: BLUELINE STAND UP PADDLE SURF (Santa Barbara) www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com 106- Focus Shattered Zip Hoodie �� $39.95 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura), REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.FocusApparel.com 107- Homegrown Surf Co. Ventura Zip Hoodie �� $27.00 Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura) www.homegrownsurfshop.com 108- Local Hemp Sweater �� $75.00 Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com 109- Local Organic/Recycled “Bolted” ��$40.00 Available at: ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS, GOOD CLEAN FUN (Cayucos) www.localclothing.com

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108

110- Quiksilver Kids Fish Tank Hoodie ��$62.00

107

Available at: RINCON DESIGNS (Carpinteria)

109

111- Rip Curl Vexed Flacket ��$89.50 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura) SWIMMING FINS

112- DaFin Swim Fins �� $59.95 105

Available at: WETSAND SURF SHOP (Ventura) www.WSurf.com

111

VESTS

113- Rip Curl H-Bomb Vest �� $299.95 Available at: RIP CURL (Santa Barbara, Ventura)

114- Quiksilver Cypher PS+ Heat Vest �� $209.95

110

Available at: www.quiksilver.com WATCHES

115- Freestyle Tide ��$89.99 112

113 114

118

116

120

Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com 116- G-Shock Watches �� STARTING AT $110.00 Available at: SURF CONNECTION (Lompoc) www.surfconnection.net 117- Neff Watches �� $X.XX Available at: HOMEGROWN SURF CO. (Ventura) www.homegrownsurfshop.com 118- Nixon Lowdown ��$90.00 Available at: SUNDANCE BEACH (Goleta) www.sundancebeach.com 119- Nixon Unit �� $129.99 Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com 120- Quiksilver Moondak Tide Watch ��$85.00 Available at: www.quiksilver.com WATER PURIFIER

121- SteriPEN Adventurer Opti �� $89.95 Available at: MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS (Santa Barbara) www.mountainairsports.com 115

117

WAX

119

122- Da Hui Wax (cold / warm) $2.00 / BAR (RETAIL PRICES AVAILABLE) Available at: www.dahuiwax.com WETSUIT CLEANER

122

123- O’Neill Wetsuit Cleaner �� $15.95 Available at: www.oneill.com

121

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W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

GEAR FOR THE MRS. BELTS

1- Betty B. Zuri ��$46.00

Available at: BETTY BELTS (Ventura) www.bettybelts.com DRESSES

2- Element Sophia Dress ��$49.50 Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com 3- Aloha Dress �� $39.00 Available at: ALOHA BEAUTIFUL (Ventura) www.alohabeautiful.com EARRINGS

4- Betty B. Double Sea Glass Drop ��$72.00 Available at: BETTY BELTS (Ventura) www.bettybelts.com

5- Betty B. Upcycled Surfboard Resin ��$48.00 Available at: BETTY BELTS (Ventura) www.bettybelts.com HAT

6- Lucy Love Hogan ��$32.00 Available at: RINCON DESIGNS (Carpinteria) JACKETS

7- Billabong Bonnie ��$78.00

Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com LINGERIE

8- Blush Lingerie C HEMISE $58.00, GARTER BELT $22.00, THONGS $22.00 Available at: DOWN UNDER (Carpinteria)

9- Jezebel Celebrity ��BRA $30.00, PANTIES $18.00 Available at: DOWN UNDER (Carpinteria) NECKLACE

10- Isla Moon Simple Circle Necklace ��$45.00 Available at: RINCON DESIGNS (Carpinteria) PADDLE WEAR

11- Wetsi Products �� LONG SL $98, SPORTS BRA $68, CAPRI PANTS $98 Available at: BLUELINE STAND UP PADDLE SURF (Santa Barbara) www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com PURSE

12- Element Cecile ��$68.00 Available at: REVOLUTION SURF CO. (Camarillo) www.revosurf.com

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE 2011 8

ROBE

p34

13- Wendy Glez (with detachable faux fur collar) ��$130.00 Available at: DOWN UNDER (Carpinteria) SANDALS

14- Havaianas Slim Crystal �� $38.00 Available at: ALOHA BEAUTIFUL (Ventura) www.alohabeautiful.com SHIRTS

15- Wine Rack Shirts �� STARTING AT $25.00 Available at: WINE RACK (Ventura) www.weaverwines.com SHOES

16- Toms Classics (Natural Burlap) �� $54.00 14

Available at: RINCON DESIGNS (Carpinteria)

SUNGLASSES

17- Roxy Coral Sunglasses ��$49.95 Available at: www.roxy.com SWIMSUITS

18- Chyna Doll �� $35.00 EACH (TOP AND BOTTOMS) Available at: ALOHA BEAUTIFUL (Ventura) www.alohabeautiful.com

19- Made by Dawn Puka Lagoon �� $68.00 (TOP) / $63.00 (BOTTOMS) Available at: BLUELINE STAND UP PADDLE SURF (Santa Barbara) www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com 20- Made by Dawn Rock �� $58.00 (TOP) / $68.00 (BOTTOMS) Available at: BLUELINE STAND UP PADDLE SURF (Santa Barbara) www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com

WATCHES 15

21- Roxy Jam Watch ��$49.95 Available at: www.roxy.com

WINES

22- Schaf Sparkling Wine Marina Merlot, C-Street Cabernet, San Buena Ventura Chardonnay ��$16.95

Available at: WINE RACK (Ventura) www.weaverwines.com 23- Winey Pants �� $24.95 Available at: WINE RACK (Ventura) www.weaverwines.com

23 22

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

WETSUITS

First Wetsuit By Chuck Graham

ter between skin and suit has been credited with this task. He initially sent his ideas to Lauriston C. “Larry” Marshall. Marshall was involved in a U.S. Navy/ National Research Council Panel on Underwater Swimmers. However, it was Willard Bascom, an engineer at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in La Jolla, California, who suggested neoprene as a feasible material to Bradner. Traditionally, most say it was Jack O’Neill, who invented the “surfing wetsuit” and started using neoprene, a closed-cell foam which was shown to him by his bodysurfing friend, Harry Hind, who knew of it as an insulating material in his laboratory work. After experimenting with the material and finding it superior to other insulating foams, Jack founded the successful wetsuit manufacturing company called O’Neill in a garage in 1952. He later relocated to Santa Cruz in 1959 with the motto “It’s Always Summer on the Inside.” O’Neill is celebrating their 70 th anniversary this year. Bob and Bill Meistrell, from Manhattan Beach, also started experimenting with neoprene around 1953. They started a company, which would later be named Body Glove. Today there’s a lot of wetsuits to choose from, manufactured all over the world. So here’s to the innovators and to those that have followed. Not only keeping surfers insulated, but paddlers, divers and swimmers as well.

FIRST WINTER OF SURFING was 1975, and I didn’t have or even want a wetsuit. Part stoked 24/7, part clueless to the elements. Like most young surfers, I was just getting my feet wet at 11-years-old. The following winter I gave in to an O’Neill long sleeved spring suit, and felt the obvious benefit of neoprene hugging my skin. From the next winter on, it was full suits and no turning back. Back then, all I cared about was riding waves. I wasn’t concerned about when the first wetsuits were created or how they were made. But it’s important to quickly reflect on the origins of arguably the most important piece of gear in a surfer’s arsenal. In 1951, physicist Hugh Bradner, who is considered to be the original inventor and “father of the modern wetsuit” had the insight that a thin layer of trapped water could be tolerated between the fabric of a wetsuit and the skin, so long as insulation was present in the fabric in the form of trapped bubbles. In this case, the water would quickly reach skin temperature and the air in the fabric would continue to act as the thermal insulation to keep it that way. The suit didn’t need to be dry to be warm. Dr. Bradner clearly understood that the gas in the suit fabric provided the thermal insulation, as his letter notes, but in the popular mind, the layer of wa-

BODY GLOVE

1- Vibe

Available in: 4/3MM, 3/2MM Sizes: 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 7/8T, 9/10T

Magna Flex in arms, shoulders and under arms. S-Flex taping on collar, crotch, wrists and ankles. Fairskin chest and back panels. Quadra Flex throughout lower body. Vaporlock seams. Spot Tape on seam intersections. Anatomically cut. Unfinished collar, wrist and ankle cuffs. Interior elastic key cord. Nano Tritec kneepads. Short zip-back entry.

2- Vapor Slant Zip

Available in: 3/2MM, 4/3MM, HOODED 5/4/3MM

If you’re looking for the warmest, lightest, most flexible suit, the Vapor is for you. The first water repellent wetsuit in the industry, the Vapor defines what a wetsuit should be.

3- PR1ME

Available in: 3/2MM, 4/3MM

Body Glove has gone back to the lab and drawn upon its 50+ years of wetsuit manufacturing wisdom and created the best wetsuit you’ll ever own. The PR1ME will change the way you look at Body Glove wetsuits forever.

4- CT

Available in: 3/2MM, 4/3MM

The CT was designed for the surfer who is looking for maximum performance and comfort. Inspired by the pros, the CT offers 100% stretch rubber and an easy slant zip entry for maximum flexibility. BODY GLOVE WETSUITS AVAILABLE AT J7 SURFBOARDS (SANTA BARBARA), ONE WAY BOARDSHOPS (SANTA MARIA, SAN LUIS OBISPO) ESTEEM SURF CO. (PISMO BEACH) WWW.BODYGLOVE.COM

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

4 1

GEAR & WETSUIT GUIDE 2011 O’NEILL

5- Psycho 2

Available in: 4/3, 3/2, WOMEN’S 4/3 We’ve upgraded to our all new super stretch Triple XDS Neoprene. Along with the XDS-Air Firewall in the chest and back, combined with Double Fluid Seam Weld, O’Neill’s patented Z.E.N. Zip Closure System with Barrier-2 Pullover Neck, Plasma Wrist and Ankle Seals, Double Super Seal Neck

7 5

6- Mutant

Available in: 5/4, 4/3, YOUTH 4/3 The Mutant is the most versatile wetsuit in the O’Neill line: 50% UltraFlex, 50% FluidFlex™, unique Modular Closure System, a detachable Crew Neck and Hood option, updated and improved ease of entry, Smooth Skin UltraFlex Firewall in chest and lumbar panels, Exterior Fluid Seam Weld, Neck Facing Glideskin, Krypto Knee Padz, and updated graphics.

7- Heat Available in: 4/3, 3/2, 6/5/4 WITH HOOD Now built with 100% of our ultra gooey UltraFlex DS Neoprene along with our X-Type Firewall in the chest and back, this suit is warmer and more flexible than its predecessor. The 2011 Heat also includes exterior Fluid Seam Weld, redesigned zipper panel, Covert/Code Red Zipper, Krypto Knee Padz, new graphics and easy-in-easy-out usability.

8- 5212 (Ltd. Ed.) w All New O’Neill Exclusive, TECHNOBUTTER Neoprene

Available in: 4.5/3.5mm, 3.5/3mm Area 52 Designers combined O’Neill’s innovative styling with the latest in wetsuit technology to create a timeless and limited offering that caters to core surfers and watermen. The 5212 features O’Neill’s exclusive Technobutter. This is the latest evolution of neoprene technology. It boasts a 17% lighter formula with 30% less water absorption and is the quickest drying neoprene on the market. It also features 1X SuperSeam construction, another O’Neill exclusive. This seam uses 60% less material than the previous fluid seam, resulting in the lightest, softest, and most durable sealed seam ever offered. The 5212 is available in 4.5/3.5 with a front-zip F.U.Z.E. entry and a 3.5/3mm Z.E.N. Zip entry. O’NEILL WETSUITS AVAILABLE AT WWW.ONEILL.COM.

PATAGONIA

It takes about 6 hours and 45 minutes to make a Patagonia full suit. That’s about twice as long as it takes to make most wetsuits. Quality this good only comes with time and care. The difference is in the details.

9- M’s R2® and R3® Back-Zip Full Suit

Available in: 2MM, 3MM NEOPRENE THROUGHOUT All Patagonia wetsuits are made from highest-quality neoprene that meets our standards for stretch, durability and warmth. Suits are lined with chlorine free merino wool structured in a patented grid pattern to maximize increase heat retention. Recycled polyester jersey in seat and legs to increases durability. All seams are triple glued and single needle blind stitched bar-tacks reinforcements and PVC free kneepads.

10- W’s R4® Front-Zip Hooded Full Suit

Available in: 5MM NEOPRENE TORSO, BACK, LEGS; 4MM SLEEVES AND HOOD; 3MM UNDERARMS The highest-quality neoprene, lined with chlorine free merino wool in a patented grid pattern, for excellent stretch, durability and warmth. Other details include triple glued and blind stitched seams, bar-tack reinforcements and PVC-free kneepads. Made for frigid water: 38-48°F

11- M’s R3® Front-Zip Hooded Full Suit

Available in: 3MM NEOPRENE THROUGHOUT The highest-quality neoprene, lined with chlorine free merino wool in a patented grid pattern, for excellent stretch, durability and warmth. Other details include triple glued and blind stitched seams, bar-tack reinforcements, PVC-free kneepads, internal neck gasket and vertical zipper designed for easier zip-up and a better seal. For 48-55 degree water.

12- M’s & W’s R2® Front-Zip Full Suits

Available in: 2MM NEOPRENE THROUGHOUT The highest-quality neoprene, lined with chlorine free merino wool in a patented grid pattern, for excellent stretch, durability and warmth. Other details include triple glued and blind stitched seams, bar-tack reinforcements and PVC-free kneepads.. Made for cool water: 55-65°F.

PATAGONIA WETSUITS AVAILABLE AT EXCLUSIVE DEALERS. SEARCH WETSUITS AT WWW.PATAGONIA.COM

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

WETSUITS QUIKSILVER

13- Cypher FuseFlex Available in: 4/3MM, 3/2MM Unrestricted warmth. Featuring Fuseflex™ stitchless seam technology with Plio-Tech thermal air chamber neoprene, bio-fleece thermal lining and waterproof YKK™ chest zip for unrestricted warmth.

14- Cypher Chest Zip Available in: 4/3MM, 3/2MM Unrestricted warmth. Combines ultra light-weight fiber-lite neoprene, bio-fleece thermal lining, Flexmax seam sealing and beadlock chest, wrist and ankle seals for unmatched cold water performance.

15- Syncro Chest Zip Available in: 3/2MM 100% hyperstretch without the premium price. Featuring HFT heating system, chest zip and vaporstretch mesh chest and back panels. You won’t find a better suit that’s easier on your wallet, period.

16- Roxy Syncro Chest Zip

100% hyperstretch II neoprene. Vaporstretch mesh chest panel lined with HTF (hollow fiber technology). Mini YKK chest zip entry system. GBS (glued and blindstitched) seams. Ectoflex kneepads and external leg key pockets.

QUIKSILVER WETSUITS AVAILABLE ONLINE AT WWW.QUIKSILVER.COM/WETSUITS

RIP CURL

17- Flash Bomb Chest Zip

Flash Dry is an exclusive new weave technology with two engineered layers—the first is designed so the water passes through it directly into the second layer. The second layer then funnels the water rapidly out of the suit to be touch dry in around 15 minutes from hanging it up. Dry in a Flash! Other features include stitchless technology, E3 tape plus aquaban combo, aqualock waterproof zip, 4-way stretch panels, mesh skin, and s-flex knees.

18- E-Bomb Pro Chest Zip Available in: 4/3MM, 3/2MM The E-Bomb Pro features an E3 Plus action panel, which has 30% more stretch than E3 and is twice as easy to stretch. E3 Plus is strategically placed in areas that allow maximum body torque during maneuvers and least resistance when paddling. Other features include stress point taped, glued and blindstitched, seamless underarms and shoulders, s-flex knees, and lock-slide design.

19- Dawn Patrol Back Zip Available in: 4/3MM GB, 3/2MM GB, 3/2MM FL The Dawn Patrol is fully packed with insane features at an amazing price, containing E3 in all the major flex areas, fireskin chest, and mesh front and back. Features E3 and Ultralight neoprene, seamless underarms and shoulders, fireskin lining, s-flex knees, and is glued and blindstitched.

20- G-Bomb Back Zip Available in: 4/3 MM; 3/2 MM The ultimate in women’s wetsuits, the G-Bomb combines the major features from the Flash-Bomb and E-Bomb suits into one amazingly flexible, warm, durable, and form fitting suit. Features flash dry lining in the chest and back panels, E3+ neoprene action panels, E3+ tape, external glued and blindstitched, batwing, hydro-lock collar, seamless underarms and shoulders, and s-flex knees. RIP CURL WETSUITS AVAILABLE AT RIP CURL VENTURA AND SANTA BARBARA.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

17 19

Surf Shop Down Low

One Way Boardshop

www.WeAreCaliforniaGrown.com

Story and Photo by Shawn Tracht

PHOTO: NICK GREEN

Team Rider: Matt King

Nothing but love from the One Way crew. BR ANDS CARRIED: A DEEP SEEDED PASSION for making the community a better place through the love of Vans, Volcom, RVCA, Diamond surfing, skating and snowboarding defines the Supply Co., mission of OneWay Boardshop. First opened in Me.Glad, Super, 2000, OneWay grew into four stores on the Central Wahl Surfboards, Coast, two in Santa Maria, one in San Luis Obispo DC, Electric, and one in Ventura. The one in Ventura recently On a Mission, closed. Nike 6.0, and more Owners, twin-brothers Dan and Dave Pankratz, have made it their mission to embody a board shop of guys and girls who “still skate, surf, and snowboard, and welcome in the community with no vibe.” Unlike big businesses and strip mall closeout stores that sell all the similar brands of surf and skate clothing, Oneway Boardshop has created a business that is more than just a place to buy. Each time a consumer heads to town to get a new shirt or the latest kicks, it’s important to notice where and how OneWay Boardshop’s money is being invested back into the community. “Sure, (larger businesses) selling surf and skate clothes may beat our prices by a few bucks, but the reason why our business is successful and people continue to support OneWay is because we’re the local shop that’s actually in the trenches,” said Dan. OneWay reinvests in the life of the local youth and gives back in many ways. They do skate demos with their skate team for local schools when principals want a reward for their students’ hard work. “(Our team riders) are drug free, good students, great role models, and they rip,” said Dan. There are also countless product donations for events and good causes like “Fighting Back Santa Maria,” a program aimed at helping keep youth on a positive path. Add to that the leadership for the “Christian Skaters” group —which includes the Pankratz’ parents making dinner for the 100 skaters who show up. “We hold a Bible study, and then we’ll go skate at the YMCA,” said Dan. “Passion for the sport is what is important to my brother and me,” said Dan. “We love our business and are committed to giving back. It’s easy to question ourselves about how much money we might be able to make doing something else, but we love what we do, and because the community appreciates our presence, it’s inspiring to keep giving back!” On the closure of the Ventura store, “we tried our hardest to support the community for the past six years, unfortunately due to the economy it came to an end,” said Dan. “We thank the community for the opportunity to be in Ventura for six years, we enjoyed it while we were there and we are sad to go.” Visit one of their three locations. Dan, Dave or one of their many superstoked employees will be on hand to welcome you and help you out.

Santa Maria Store 2348 S. Bradley, Santa Maria (805) 347-3323

California Apparel for Men and Women

Other locations: Santa Maria Town Center San Luis Obispo www.onewayboardshop.com W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

PHOTO ESSAY

First Frame

Five-inch oily barrel.

Malibu zoo.

Paul Greene IT’S NOT OFTEN that I get photo submissions from a 15year-old. In fact, Paul Greene was the first. He sent me a good mix of stuff, enough to warrant a photo essay in DEEP by easily the youngest photographer to grace our pages. It’s not common to run into someone who is dead set on a career at such a young age, but

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Greene is sworn on photography and he might be onto something. “I first got into photography when I bought a GoPro a few years back,” he said. “Ever since that first day shooting with it, I fell in love with photography.” Greene’s also a surfer, but he likes photographing empty waves and landscapes. He’s sporting quite an arsenal of camera gear from a Canon 5D Mark II, and everything from a 100 to 400mm to

fish eye lenses and a Del Mar Water Housing. Greene has set some early lofty goals for himself, visualizing his images on the covers of several prominent surfing magazines, but knows getting his name out there is a tough task. “The biggest challenge I have faced so far is getting recognition,” he continued. “Photography is a big part of my life. I want to make a career out of it.” – Chuck Graham

Two elephant seals on the lookout for whitey.

Rugged Northern California coast.Â

Midnight boulders.

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

PHOTO ESSAY

After the storm.

Rough-skinned newt.Â

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Draining to the coast.

A boat’s light shining through the midnight fog.

Does this mean cell phones aren’t working today?

Someone’s ugly sister.

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Billy at Copa, the spot nearest to his Bull Bay homestead.

HOW ARE YOU LOVING

THE WAVES SO FAR? IN JAMAICA, THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

RONAN GLADU

By Michael Kew

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Ivah Wilmot and friends, Bull Bay.

Icah Wilmot, Jamaica’s version of Rob Machado.

Ackeam Phillips, Lighthouse Reef.

Billy jamming some old Mystic Revealers riffs.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SETH STAFFORD, BRISICK, WILMOT, WILMOT, GLADU,

Local grom.

PARKING A SPLIFF is tough while driving an open-windowed jeep. But we’re being bumped slowly—Billy can light and puff and also steer with his left knee. The A4 Road is a prosaic mosaic of puddles and potholes. “Nice,” he says, “for it being the main highway. Yunno?” He flicks ash out the window. This narrow vein threads fragrant green fields of Jamaica’s finest. It skirts the lush, brooding John Crow Mountains. It fords historic burgs like Yallahs and Golden Grove and their loose storefronts and tiny pubs, the barbershops, the gas stations and old slavery plantations. It fronts rusty jerk-meat grills and mounds of burning trash, miles of sugarcane, loud waterfalls, craggy cliffs, the blue Caribbean, fruit stands and idle people. Often, like today, Billy rolls the A4 while listening to songs by Mystic Revealers, his old reggae band of global fame. He sings along with his recorded lyrics and, often, he’s spotted by folks along the road—“Hey, Rastaman!” they shout. “Love, love, love!” In Jamaica, Billy is a star. Slouched in the back seat with their iPods are Shane and his pal Ivah, Billy’s youngest. They will say little during our two-hour, 60-mile drive from the south coast’s Bull Bay, where Billy lives, to the north coast. Today the south coast is lake-flat, but windswell from Tropical Storm Emily, a big rainmaker for Puerto Rico and Hispaniola, is jolting Jamaica’s surf hub of Boston Beach. “This is the flattest the sea has been in three years, mon,” Billy says in Port Morant. He spells it out. “F-l-a-a-a-a-t. Normally you see whitewater all over the place.” “On flat days down here, where do you look for surf?” “When it’s this small, mon, we smoke weed and chill out and wait for swell. Or we go north.” The east of his isle is lush but broken. “Saint Thomas is a neglected parish,” he says, blowing smoke from his nose. “No tourism or any industry over here. It used to be big for sugarcane, for banana, but not anymore. And the Goodyear tire factory closed down. That’s why surfing is embraced here. It’s something Montego Bay cannot take away from us. Negril cannot. Ocho Rios cannot.” Ah, Jamaica’s trio of tourist havens, deep with suave resorts and bright white sand. Tourism is the island’s main revenue, after all—2010 saw 2 million visitors, virtually all to the three zones Billy named, and 2011 is projected to welcome 3 million land-based and cruise ship souls. “If you fly into Montego Bay, you see loads of white people,” he says. “But you flew into Kingston, yeah? The people there probably thought you picked the wrong airport.” I was the only surfer and the only non-black in the JetBlue plane and in Norman Manley International because, if they don’t surf, white tourists avoid Jamaica’s south and east coasts. The beaches are windy and rocky, crime abounds, the roads are bad, there are no swim-up bars nor golfing greens. And much of the beach zone has been thrashed by hurricanes—a bad place to build another Sandals (Jamaica has seven). “Ever been in a hurricane?” Billy asks me. “Nope. Don’t want to.” “You have to experience one to really know what it’s like. Imagine the wind blowing

160 miles an hour for four hours! Anything that isn’t bolted down, moves. It crumples steel and cement like aluminum foil, mon. It destroys everyt’ing.” As the pavement smooths (Billy: “We’re heading into the main tourist area—the road’s good for them.”), the A4 snakes inland around Innes Bay and past the turn-off for Reich Falls, past the fishing village of Manchioneal, and again it greets the Caribbean at Long Bay, a long fetch of mostly unsurfable coast. Facing northeast, however, it is ribbed by blue, tit-high windswell. Thank you, Emily. There are some spots here and there, Billy says. “Nothing worth the drive.” This volcanic east fringe is wild and corrugated, known, among other things, for its sea caves and the spicy scent of jerk pork embedded in the breeze. Boston Beach, which suddenly pops into view off the road’s right side, would be easy for another driver—a tourist, say—to miss its turquoisehued, C-shaped cove flanked by steep, green bluffs. Billy parks us in the small, littered cement lot at the base of the hill fronting the surf. There’s a left off the north side and a right off the south. Occasionally they meet in the middle. They’re bumpy and backwashy. Many closeouts. The left looks a bit longer and steeper, but, as regularfooters, Shane and I opt for the right. “How are you loving the waves so far?” he asks me after I catch a few bad ones. “Good, eh?” “Yes, irie. I’m loving it.” “It’s so good, mon! We all getting some good ones, yeah?” On a short orange thruster, Shane surfs with strength and fluidity. Most of his friends, too, are skilled—floaters, airs, carves, snaps. I am impressed. The performance level rivals any Orange County hotbed. Out killing the left-handers, Icah, Billy’s oldest son, has been called “the Rob Machado of Jamaica.” It was Machado who, in 2004’s “A Broke Down Melody,” said “the future of surfing is gonna come from places that you least expect.” This is the same film that introduced many—including me—to Jamaican surf. On a map, the island’s small encircling sea doesn’t seem to ooze waves. And it doesn’t, really. But it does. Enough to afford the annual Makka Pro surf contest and two national contest series: a Jamaican representation at the World Surfing Games, at the ISA World Junior Surfing Championships, and at the Pan

Dominoes are a favored pastime on the isle of reggae.

Icah, Lighthouse Reef.

PHOTOS FROM TOP: BRISICK, WILMOT, BILLY, JAMIE BRISICK

“SEE?” BILLY SAYS AFTER MY SHORT SESSION. WE’RE STANDING IN THE SHADE BY HIS JEEP. “THE YOUTHS ARE KILLING IT, MON. THIS IS THE FUTURE RIGHT HERE.” American Surfing Games; a thriving Jamaican Surfing Association, a surf camp or two, surf lessons, surfboard rentals, high school surf programs, corporate surf sponsorships, surfboard shapers, and a lot of obsessed kids. “See?” Billy says after my short session. We’re standing in the shade by his jeep. “The youths are killing it, mon. This is the future right here.” The late-day sun behind us floods the cove with bright, photogenic color. Like he often does, Billy videos the kids. It’s important for them. He lights a spliff as a family of white Floridians approaches. They’re staying at Sandals in Ocho Rios and drove to Boston to taste its famous jerk meat. The mother is shocked—she didn’t know surfing was so popular in Jamaica. Her two young sons seem intrigued by Billy’s joint—marijuana is illegal where they come from. Her husband, rotund and unathletic, asks about renting a board and having a surf lesson here. “There’s your man,” Billy says, pointing to a young dreadlocked surfer doing push-ups on the cement. I’d seen him out ripping. The kid’s got a spliff between his lips.

Luke Williams, Lighthouse Reef.

Billy Wilmot, the godfather of Jamaican surfing. W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

he silence of dawn

is broken by the long yawn of the foghorn echoing through the sleepy streets of the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara and calling life to this seemingly run down neighborhood by the sea. Bells resonate as boats slug their way past the pier, parting the glassy waters and trailing off into the horizon. The distant barks of Californian sea lions join the symphony of sounds, interrupted by the loud whistle of an arriving train and the chiming of the crossing at State Street.

Funk Z one S anta B ar

b ar a H ar b

or.

R o of t o

S ant a B arbara’s

p v ie w.

AN ECLECTIC GROUP CREATING AN ONGOING MASTERPIECE

Story and photos by Katie McClean Gulls cackle as they heckle the hobo with the rickety shopping cart rolling by a mural covered coffee shop collecting bottles and cans left by skater rats and stoner kids who tagged the crumbling brick walls of the closed-down Californian Hotel the night before. Their skateboards now clap against the concrete of the palm-lined seaside skate park as surreys carrying tourists ring their way down the adjacent bike path. The muffled electric guitar of Jimi Hendrix’s “Castles Made of Sand” joins the mix, vibrating through the walls of the neighboring art studio and waking me. I lay in my loft bed listening to the sounds seep through my skylight. A beat begins with the monot-

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

onous striking of a chisel to marble in a yard of sculptures at the studio of red rotting wood. One, by one, the artisans and surfers of the Funk Zone arise and contribute to the concoction of melodies. The illustrated barn doors of the Mermaid’s Chest open as their array of antiques spill into the street and their hand painted signs are dragged across the potholes of Helena Avenue. The garage doors of The Beach House and Blueline Stand Up Paddlesurf rattle upward. The simultaneous sawing of Soboba’s Wood Co. and the sanding of surfboards next door have a high-pitched hum that raises me from my pile of furry pillows. I worm through a miniature doorway and up a rounded set of

stairs towards a rooftop of flowers like Alice in a wonderland of nooks and crannies that my father has spent over 30 years crafting and re-crafting. There’s a story behind everything here in Funk Zone. The layers of history overlap like the faded graffiti, decaying wood, and peeling paint that collage together to form a wonderfully rich and unique texture. From the insuppressible vines that wrap around my mother’s old sculptures, I pick a ripe, red tomato and pop it into my mouth as I watch the resting waters of Sand Spit’s potential tubing perfection behind the lighthouse. I stand barefoot where she stood 23 years ago as I was ripening in her round belly. I’m blessed to have been the only

person born and raised in the Funk Zone, and will be lucky if I’m here past 27, the same age as my father when he stumbled upon this old 1903 olive packing warehouse with his fisherman friend. What began in the ‘70s as a small, heated, cardboard igloo in the center of an auditorium, progressed room by room, balcony to second story, rope swing to staircase, and hanging macramé plants to a rooftop garden with a lookout room. No matter how many levels, niches, stairways, lofts, doors of all sizes, skylights, and rope swings he adds, his 35-year art project will never be finished. The roof can always be punched through to create more rooms, he says. The studio

Helena Avenue & I.

Somewhere inside the Funk Zone.

Latitude Gallery.

Richard McLean’s madness.

Rooftop by the pier.

Past reminders.

Old school skateboards.

Sculpture studio of red rotting wood.

A porthole to Soboba Wood’s secret.

Automobiles and antiques at Mermaid’s Chest.

is littered his projects of the past and present: giant windmills, stacks of silk screens, towers of film tapes, overflowing piles of bottle caps, and hundreds of miniature fused glass surfboards. I hear his canary colored camper van putter out of our ivy-covered alley and past Tom Long who rests silently against his old Bronco reading the morning paper. You would never know that Long’s corner of the warehouse held a Shelby Cobra that he kept in mint condition until recently selling it for an excitingly obscene amount that then prompted the neighbors to roll out a red carpet at his doorway and decorate it with shiny tinsel banners from the nearby 99-cent store. Nor would you know that inside his boutique of fine woods is a private gallery of his impeccably hand-crafted Egyptian inspired sarcophaguses, machetes, and furniture pieces detailed with stones, pigments, and gold leafing. Our termite ridden warehouse crawls with talented artists and hidden treasures. James O’Mahoney slides up in his silver 1962 Corvette complete with vintage wooden longboard hanging out the back. He swings open the Taj Mahal doors to his Museum of Santa Barbara historical riches and the neighboring surf museum. Imagine a massive ukulele collection mixed with surfboards of all sizes, hanging Hawaiian shirts, posters, and more memorabilia than you can imagine. Next door he tells the tales of his latest finds, walls of animals, shelves of skulls, and cases of St. Barbie’s legacies. His eclectic collection is as colorful as his character and as vast as his own history. In 1974, he created the U.S. and World Skateboard Associations to organize major competitions and in 1975 he published Skateboard Magazine. He then took countless titles in longboard surfing in the ‘80s and ‘90s. But my favorite of facts is his responsibility for the word “skateboard” being in the dictionary and that his father is the original

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Tarzan film star—explaining where Mahoney gets that echoing moan of excitement while shooting pool next door with local shaper Matt Moore. They chat out back of the Beach House with Reynolds Yater, and eye The Pond’s ripples across the street. The grassroots surf community buzzes in the streets as a winter swell is due this weekend. Among Renny’s classic longboards, Al Merrick’s world famous Channel Islands Surfboards, J7’s shortboards, MacDonald’s banzai boards, Allan Gibbons’ specialty boards, and Stand Up Paddle Sports and Blueline’s SUPs, there is a stick for every type of surf and surfer here. Recently, J7 Surfboards and Point Concept Surfboards have flocked to the funky shoreline to

but are we so crazy for thinking that our trash is this city’s treasure? It’s a strange paradox: The Funk Zone of Santa Barbara. Nowhere else in California can you find corroding seaside warehouses at the epicenter of a beautiful city. This shore is the last of its kind. And while to some it’s a diamond in the rough, to others it’s an eye sore. The axe is always present for this small eclectic neighborhood, as well as for the remaining unique character of Santa Barbara. As huge department stores are quickly replacing every last boutique on State Street, plans are in progress for the Funk Zone to build time-shares and attract tourists. I understand the city’s desire to develop this deteriorating area and

join this fun and unique density of surf culture. The Funk Zone has long been one of the most concentrated communities of shapers and surf shops on the coast of California. From the shore’s past as the Castagnola’s fishing empire, to its present, as a salty sanctuary for surfers, skaters, strippers, sailors, street dwellers, and wine sippers—the Funk Zone is a real life Cannery Row filled with saints and sinners, depending on which peephole you look through. This community’s characters are so colorful that I doubt Steinbeck himself could have composed such a cast. These creatives and derricks have had free rein over the area for decades, and are responsible for the strange aesthetic that makes these streets so memorable. This junkyard of rusty rod iron, rotting wood, and deterioration decorated with the denizens’ inventive attempts to fix up their home, creates a visually rich dynamic that exists nowhere else. The inmates clearly run the asylum here,

replace its profitless artists with money-making tourism, but I fear that stripping the streets of our creative individuals’ studios isn’t what’s best for the city. When the Funk Zone has been groomed and manicured to conform to the standard of white walls and red roofs and all the endearing hand painted store signs are replaced with manufactured ones, will the desire to visit our vibrant community remain? We upkeep the floors here by scraping a thin layer of blue paint across the cold concrete, so that the previous pink flooring still shows through to create a contrast of overlapping colors and a rich texture that brilliantly distracts from the shedding of our golden retriever. It is a practical and simple solution that saves paint, utilizes the current conditions, and creates a beautiful combination of the old and new. I hope that as plans are pushed to develop the Funk Zone, outsiders will consider looking closely inside for a solution that keeps the community and “Funk” in this zone.

T he Funk Z one has long been one of the most concentrated communities of shapers and surf shops on the coast of California.

My father once tossed a seed carelessly into the cracks of our concrete alley. What seemed like a hopeless attempt to create life flourished years later into a massive maple tree cascading over Latitude Gallery. Its growth initially went unnoticed, but now I can’t imagine our home without the beauty and shade that this plant provides. Over the years craftsmen, artists, architects, antique collectors, musicians, mechanics, writers, sculptors, performers, photographers, and philosophers have migrated here and a new age of young designers, editors, and makers continue to flood the Funk Zone to live, create, and be inspired here. I’ve watched shops slinging skateboards, electric guitars, crafts and creations of all sorts come and go. There are days when sun shines, music plays and paint flows, and then there are days when a flash flood sweeps your family’s two cars out to sea. Fortunately your neighbors are always there at your door with a boat to transport you to dry land. It’s been an interesting upbringing in this rare, Bohemian ghetto by the sea with the community’s colorful characters watching over me. I was once the little girl of this neighborhood who would color the streets with chalk, and feed, love, and squeeze the alley cats. Now 22 years old, I’ve graduated to covering the walls with murals and nurturing the life in this neighborhood with art shows and community events in the space that my mother once did the same. The outcome of being brought up amidst paints and power tools inevitably translates into all the medias I create when I’m not slipping away to surf. I can’t help but be infused with inspiration here and ooze imitations of every texture and technique I see and hear. If you listen to and look closely at the details of the Funk Zone, and meet it’s colorful characters, you’ll hear, see, and feel the same need to preserve this community.

Hidden gem.

Boards galore in the Funk Zone.

McLean above Latitude Gallery in the 70’s.

Historic Cabrillo and State intersection.

Stearn’s Wharf late 1800’s.

O’ Mahoney and St. Barbi’s treasures.

Handcrafted signs.

Santa Barbara Surf Museum.

Mural-covered coffee shop and The Californian Hotel.

Northern Exposure

It Only Takes One By Dan Hamlin

AST FALL I spent the East Coast hurricane season chasing waves on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Jesse Hines had invited me back to experience the hurricane season in all its glory for my first time and I graciously accepted. One of the things I found amusing while I was there was the amount of equipment that surfers kept in their cars. Basically every hardcore surfer I encountered kept everything from trunks to a 5-milimeter wetsuit on hand, thanks to the fluctuating Atlantic Ocean that is capable of dropping 20 degrees overnight. This type of ocean variation makes it a necessity to be prepared.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

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Here on the Central Coast, I’ve found that the elements force versatility and preparedness in a different way. One thing we can count on is cold water, so for most of us one wetsuit will do year round. But what we lack in variety of ocean temperature, we make up for in diversity of waves. On the Outer Banks, and the vast majority of the East Coast for that matter, there is simply beach break. Not until you creep up into the northern reaches near New England do you start to get something other than sandy bottom A-frames. But here on the Central Coast, there are spots where you can literally surf a beach break then paddle a hundred yards or so to surf a reef. With a solid ground swell running, you can surf everything from massive big waves to soft beginner spots. This sort of variety makes a good board, in my opinion, one of the most important pieces of surf gear one can own. If you’re lucky enough to be able to afford a quiver, that’s even better. When I travel, I’m often asked by non-surfers why I take more than one board. I like to respond by saying that a golfer wouldn’t use a putter on a fairway, would he? The more versatile a board, the more valuable it is to me. Due to one reason or another (mostly lack of cash), this past winter my quiver had shrunk to essentially one board. This put my board versatility theory to the test. What I found was that having only one board to choose from made surfing a bit less complicated. Pull up to a spot and there is no time wasted in deciding what board to ride. I began to cherish that board. It worked in everything from waist high to double overhead waves. Where I did miss having a quiver was when the surf enters into the extremes: as in extremely small or extremely big. But with the sort of said diversity that our coastline holds, it generally only takes a bit of driving in order to find a wave suitable to the type of board you have. The more versatile your board, the more breaks you can comfortably surf with it. With all that being said about the importance of a good board, I had a rather sobering experience the other day before I paddled out. AmpSurf, a nonprofit dedicated to rehabilitating amputees (particularly war veterans) through surfing, was putting on a clinic at my local beach. Watching the joy in those who rode waves for their first time all while overcoming circumstances that for many would seem impossible gave me a clearer perspective on what is important. So perhaps the most important piece of surf gear I own is simply the ability to paddle out and catch a few waves. And unlike surfboards, which all eventually lose their value, this blessing that we call surfing will always remain priceless.

PHOTO: CRAIG HAMLIN

Jesse Hines driving his 5’11” to the limit.

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PHOTOS FROM LEFT: JASON RATH/ TRACHT

Board Trachting

Asymmetrical Design

Tracht in the middle of a layback Finley getting asymmetrical.

Story by Shawn Tracht

OT ONLY IS PAUL FINLEY of Sojourner Surfboards a dynamic shaper, he’s a great dad and husband. But why is this important at all? Well ... trust. In life, when you are putting your passions out there into the world, you are putting your passion into someone else’s hands. As a dad and husband, Finely nourishes his family’s passions with care and enthusiasm, and as a shaper, he does just the same. So when this tall, Zen-like hippie methodically begins to explain why he’s going to shape you this unorthodox stick that is a completely different board from one side of the stringer to the other, you will be wary. However, you can trust me. After working with shapers like Robert Weiner, Fletcher Chouinard, Nick Cooper, Jeff Hull, Dave Johnson, and PJ Wahl this year, to name a few, I will attest that this dread-locked shredder makes a great surfboard. SHAPER’S TAKE:

Have you ever run down a steep hill as fast as you can? Have you ever tried to run down that same hill backwards? I’m pretty sure the results would be drastically different. Our bodies are designed to move in particular directions more efficiently than others. When we are in the water it is no different. A backside wave needs to be surfed differently than frontside. Our knees, feet and piggies have a large part in enabling pressure to be applied or released off the rail in a more efficient manner when going frontside. Backside surfing is more of a balance of leaning off the center of gravity with control over how much rail and fin is engaged. Design basics that help with this are a straighter rail on the toe side and more full curved rail on the heel side. Fins are another universe of exploration and shouldn’t be confined to the symmetrical box either. All together, I believe that I am drawn towards asymmetricals because they are fun, and with a limited amount of money I can get two boards packed into one.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Obviously symmetrical boards work and plenty of surfers shrederate on them, so I don’t really think that one shape or design is the answer. But alas, I am not anywhere near a mondo shrederator, but more on the side of a mega fun-erator. Fun is why I surf, so when I go out I want to be on whatever surf-craft is going to help celebrate the fun-eration of surfing. SURFER’S TAKE:

I rode this board in all different conditions, from 3- to 10-foot surf. I also messed around immensely with fin design, ending with a concoction that Paul came up with. One normal fin, one fat stubby fin, and one curved fin that completed the trifecta of weirdness. The idea was to couple the rail design on each side of the board with a fin that helped that template both drive and release best for its style. My toe side edge was shaped straight with a harder edge, like a classic fish. Therefore we put a normal, stiff fin on this side, so that the board would have optimum hold and get to top speed as quickly as possible. Conversely, on the heel side edge, which was the curvy/shortboard template side of the board, we put in this weird curvy fin. What happened was that when I transitioned from the toe side rail to the heel side rail, I went from a fast, stiff swallow-tail rail/tail combo to a loose, quick pivoting shortboard rail/tail combo. This allowed me to surf more radically than a flowing swallow-tail fish would usually let you ride. So what I ended up with was speed and flow on my toe side, transitioning in one fell swoop to my heel side for pure high performance surfing. The thing was radical! Was it the best of both worlds? Yes, because I liked the two individual boards that were built into the design. This is the main reason why you’ll want to discuss your surfing style and the waves you surf regularly with Paul, so that he can fit your favorite two boards into this mutant machine.

Fins for all seasons.

SOJOURNER SURFBOARDS SHAPER:

Paul Finley BOARD SHAPE/DESIGN:

Asymmetrical fish/shortboard HOW TO ORDER:

Easiest way to order this board is to talk directly to Paul either in person of by phone at his shop in Morro Bay. THIS BOARDS SPECIALTY:

Loves lined up waves of between 3- to 10-foot the way it was ordered. FINS:

Tri-fin set up. Your fin set up is going to get wacky and fun with this board. THIS BOARD IS PERFECT FOR:

Surfers who are willing to make calculated experiments to up the fun factor and exhilarate stoke. SURFBOARD TESTER, SHAWN TRACHT’S NORMAL SHORTBOARD:

5’10” x 18” x 2’ TRACHT ORDERED THIS BOARD:

5’7” / toe side & 5’5” / heal side. SHAPER’S CONTACT INFO:

Phone: (805) 904-5079 Web site: sojournersurfboards.com Email: paul@sojournersurfboards.com Surfers Blog: stsurf.com

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BON VOYAGE TO THE VENOCO BARGE By Kara Petersen

INCE THE CHUMASH first used naturally seeping tar to seal their Tomols hundreds of years ago, the black goo has been a local resource we’ve depended on. Nowhere in the nation has the gas and oil production debate been as hot, pitting environmentalists and big business against each other, and leaving everyone else wondering if there is a sustainable solution to fuel our modern lives that won’t cost us our treasured coastlines. After already receiving approval from the City of Goleta and the Santa Barbara County Board of Supervisors, Venoco Inc. recently won the final approval it needed from the Coastal Commission to build a new pipeline from Ellwood in Goleta. And, while these are the regulating bodies that will grant the approval for the commencement of construction, it is with no doubt that the support Venoco received from local environmental organizations aided in the approval process throughout the last three years and across the various facets of our local government. Venoco Community Relations Manager Lisa Rivas lists many of the reasons the Venoco pipeline is favored by environmental organizations

as well as Venoco itself, “It is a well known fact that the transport of crude oil via pipeline is the safest and most environmentally protective option. Locally, in addition to the nearby residents seeing the barge come in and out of town every 11 days or so, there will be no risk of a spill on the open ocean. In addition, the air emissions associated with barge transport will be gone.” With the recent debate about Bill HR 2021, which will greatly reduce local authority to regulate emissions from vessels traveling off our coastlines, the pipeline approval could not have come soon enough. Venoco is the last oil company in California to transport their crude product by barge. The building of their 8.5-mile pipeline will end the transport of oil through ocean waters between Long Beach and San Francisco. In a press release from the Environmental Defense Center, Abe Powell, President of GOO! (Get Oil Out) stated, “We are overjoyed to finally end oil barging off the coast. The Coastal Commission’s action will result in a tremendous benefit to the California coast.” The EDC, along with many of its clients,

pushed for decades to bring a halt to oil barging in our channel. The new transport method will not only mean increased revenues for Venoco, but also bring about safer and cleaner travel for crude oil. The pipeline will travel north from the Ellwood Onshore facility to the Plains pipeline, and eliminate the need for the barge that has traveled up and down the Santa Barbara Channel for decades. In only 8.5 miles, the Venoco pipeline will protect almost the entire California Coast from the risk of an oil spill and eliminate the air pollution-causing emissions the barge left in its wake. Construction, which will take place mainly on existing roads, is alerady underway. And, if all goes as planned, Venoco’s Olympic Spirit barge could be retired as early as spring of 2012. Even though the oil platforms still mark our channel, there will no longer be barges busting through the kelp forests. Given the constancy of controversies between the oil industry and environmental advocates, it’s rare to see a victory that all sides can agree on. It is certainly a step in the right direction.

Coastal Cleanup Day 2011 IN SEPTEMBER, beaches across Santa Barbara County got makeovers as volunteers lifted trash and other marine debris from the coastline. LessIsMore.org teamed up with the Ocean Conservancy to coordinate efforts for an annual beach clean that takes place throughout Santa Barbara County. Over 1,200 volunteers at 30 different beaches and creeks in Santa Barbara County worked all day to collect the leftovers of summer fun, storm drain run off, and other plastics and pollution that made its way onto our shores. They collected over 7,200 pounds of debris, 1,000 pounds of which were recyclable. Plans are already in the works for 2012. Save the Date: September 15. Did you miss all of the clean fun this year? Suggest a new cleanup site for 2012 or volunteer to captain efforts near you by going to: http://lessismore.org/pages/coastal-cleanup-day-in-santa-barbara-county. – Kara Petersen Off to the dump.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

Green Room

GREEN FLIGHTS From California to Australia in One Hour: Surfboards Included? COLUMN by

Derek Dodds

Derek Dodds is a surfer, shaper, eco-entrepreneur and lover of the Mini Simmons surfboard. He aspires to share inspirational stories about exceptional eco surfing pioneers and progressive green products in upcoming issues. Dodds currently resides in Ojai and is the founder of Wave Tribe. Follow him @derekdodds.

PHOTOS FROMTOP: JOSH KIMBALL, DODDS:

URFERS LOVE to travel. There is a sense of walking the edge of the unknown, an oceanic dream drives us, coupled by the desire to find that perfect uncrowded wave hidden like a Balinese treasure deep in the forest. However, indulging ourselves in liquid gold comes with a price—but is it an ecologically unfriendly price? Quite frequently, surf travel requires us to jet across the globe, and as a conscious surfer I have felt the pangs of guilt tugging at my eco heartstrings under the barrage of news articles encouraging a zero carbon footprint and requests for carbon offset purchases to help counterbalance long international flights. Can you really lead a green lifestyle and still feel good about traveling across the planet in search of the perfect wave? I do want to be green, but I don’t want to give up the gift of surf travel—this is my dilemma. You hear in the media how ecologically damaging the aviation industry is, but did you know that industries such as IT have overtaken aviation in terms of their CO2 output from the 1 billion servers currently on the planet. Turning off our computers when they aren’t being used can have a large impact on our energy footprint and could be more effective than skipping that surf trip. The Office of Sustainability at Tufts Institute of the Environment reports that according to FAA studies, including idling and taxiing,

an airplane gets about 48 miles to the gallon per seat. Longer flights are more efficient, newer planes are better, but on average it’s 48 MPG. Thus, traveling solo in an SUV is more harmful in terms of emissions than buying a plane ticket. So don’t feel bad about flying anymore because 48 MPG is better than most cars on the road. I did the calculation, and I consumed 179 gallons of fuel to get me to Indo, that’s like nine tanks of gas. I feel OK about that. As technology advances, fuel efficiency in the aviation field will improve dramatically and we’ll be able to fly longer distances more ecologically. Some airlines and airplane manufacturers are taking steps to improve their eco-flyprints. Southwest and Continental have implemented fuel efficiency improvements, waste reduction programs and increased recycling, and are investing in newer, more fuel efficient airplanes. Another airline on the cutting edge of green is Virgin Atlantic, which made news in 2008 when it became the first major carrier to test the use of biofuels (liquid fuels derived from plant matter) on passenger jet flights. Now Air New Zealand, Continental, Japan Airlines (JAL), JetBlue and Lufthansa are also testing biofuels. I love this concept because it starts to address our dependency on oil and gives us some eco alternatives. Boeing is getting eco by developing a carbon-neutral jet fuel made from algae. The company’s newest

commercial jet, the 787 Dreamliner, is 20 percent more fuel efficient than its predecessors thanks to more efficient engines, aerodynamic improvements and the widespread use of lighter composite materials to reduce weight. Airbus is also incorporating more lightweight composite materials into its new planes, but for the real eco winner keep reading. Can you fly a plane on croissants and jam with little or no fuel? The innovative French company, Lisa, is building a prototype small plane, named the Hy-Bird, that uses solar power via photovoltaic cells on the elongated wingspan. It plans to use hydrogen-powered fuel cells to fly with zero emissions. The company claims the Hy-Bird is the first 100 percent eco-friendly plane and is readying a round-the-world flight. Even more unusual is the proposed fuel-free plane by Mississippibased Hunt Aviation. The company is working on a prototype plane that harnesses the natural forces of buoyancy (thanks to helium-filled pontoons) for lift-offs and gravity for landings—along with an on-board wind turbine and battery to power everything in between—to achieve flight without any fuel whatsoever. Dude! Hands down the envelope of innovation is being pushed hardest by Richard Branson’s commercial space

Empty mud pit beyond the palms.

On your way.

company Virgin Galactic. The Galactic mother ship, VSS Eve, is the largest 100 percent carbon composite plane in service and is the most environmentally friendly aircraft in the world (so they claim). Virgin Galactic plans to begin commercial flights outside the atmosphere in the next few years, and once prices stabilize I’ll be signing up for sure. When those flights go live, flying from Los Angeles to Sydney will take about an hour. You’ll be able to surf Rincon in the morning and Bells before lunch and you’ll likely do it on 100 MPG. Let’s just hope that they don’t charge extra for surfboard transport!

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Music

CALIFORNIA REGGAE MUSIC:

Lead singer Gavin (Rossdale) from Bush getting up close and personal. / Zach Hansen lead singer of Key To Chaos at The Whiskey during Sunset Strip Music Festival

New CD Releases at the Forefront of Music Evolution Story by L. Paul Mann

Sunset Strip Music Festival Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann FOUR BLOCKS of West Hollywood’s Sunset Strip were shut down for the annual Sunset Music Festival on August 28. The famous zone, where the vast majority of legendary rock clubs in the city are clustered, became a veritable hair band heaven as the day wore on. With over 50 acts playing simultaneously on two outdoor stages and the five nightclubs in the area, it was a hard rock fan’s dream show. Although the music covered many genres, from heavy metal to indy favorites, the predominant theme was certainly a celebration of hair bands. The clubs featured short sets by aspiring new indy bands from across the country, while the main stages showcased more established groups. The carefully selected deluge of bands mainly shared one attribute enduring themselves to West Hollywood fans, and that was stage presence. There were no shoe staring, emo musicians with their backs to the crowd, to be seen anywhere on the strip. But there were plenty of in-yourface performers ready to rock. Visit www.deepzine.com for full story.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE November/December 2011

HE WIDE WORLD of reggae music continues to expand and evolve into new mashups of samplings from nearly every music genre. California has been at the forefront of much of this evolution with an explosion of new music in recent times. Three new CD releases illustrate this diversity and paint three distinctive musical canvases. The new release from the Northern California band ZuhG, “Free Love,” probably is the best example of the pure diversity that the reggae music genre now encompasses. The band, whose name roughly translates to “to be different from the others,” takes an experimental approach on its new recording, resulting in a wide array of sounds, nearly unique on every track. The opening song “New Shoes (Happy Feet),” harkens back to a full funky ’70s sound similar to the power funk of the “Average White Band” from that distinctive era. Other songs take on a more modern reggae tone, before the CD devolves into more experimental music. There are so many musical elements at play with this group it is hard to even classify them as a reggae band. There are even traces of the ’40s big band sounds on “Free Love,” which overall exhibits a very sophisticated understanding of

music on the band’s part. California native Dominic Balli takes a more traditional approach to what he likes to call “Cali-RockReggae” on his new CD “American Dream.” His strength lies in his immense vocal talents, which on some tracks find him sounding much like legendary crooner Sting and at others seeming to channel Bob Marley. Infused with an occasional dose of hip-hop, the eloquent album is an easily joyful piece of music to listen to, sounding fresh and timely. Balli is also a great storyteller with compelling meaningful lyrics, composed from his experiences in his travels across the globe. The new band My Peoples, Northern California transplants originally from Honolulu, display a talent for beach music reggae on their new self-titled, sevensong mini-CD. With a definite island style musical influence, a bit of hip-hop, and an occasional ska back beat, their upbeat new release offers up some fun party music that would make a great surfing video soundtrack. Listening to the music of My Peoples brings to mind a sunny Sunday afternoon at the beach with a few beers and some good friends. The music is a nice easy breath of fresh air.

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