FLY FISHING IN THE FOUR CORNERS WHERE TO CAST YOUR LINE NEXT
A WEEKEND IN CRESTED BUTTE
FALL IN LOVE WITH THIS MOUNTAIN TOWN
OURAY'S NEW VIA FERRATA
TRAVERSING THE FAMOUS BOX CANYON
A D V E N T U R E P R O . U S
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Suspension A LightWire spring steel peripheral frame and an Air Scape® ventilated backpanel for the best quality carr y ever of fered.
Load Capacity Designed to provide a stable closeto-body carr y; ideal for managing heavier loads when the trail gets technical.
Custom Fit A c u t t i n g - e d g e C u s t o m F i t- o n the-Fly® design does away with complexity while of fering a truly fine-tuned fit.
A quarter century of evolution. For a lifetime of trips. T h e a l l - n e w A e t h e r ™ | A r i e l . A v a i l a b l e n o w a t O s p r e y P r o S h o p s , R E I a n d o s p r e y. c o m .
CONTENTS
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36
48 42
30 FE AT U RE S
10 AERIAL HIKER
SCOUTING TRAILS FROM ABOVE by bruce grubbs
14 FRUITA MOUNTAIN BIKING
RIDING ON THE WESTERN SLOPE by morgan tilton
20 TRAINING DURING COVID
REDEFINING ATHLETIC GOALS by morgan sjogren
24 NATURE’S HEALING GIFTS THE BENEFITS OF BEING OUTSIDE. by danny frazer
30 OURAY VIA FERRATA
COLORADO’S NEWEST THRILL by morgan tilton
36 OFF THE GRID IN UTAH
EXPECTING THE UNEXPECTED by brenda bergreen
D EPARTMENTS
06 OPENING SHOT
ABOUT THE COVER
08 OUTDOOR VITALS
Ryan Cleveland enjoys a relaxing morning of fly fishing on the Animas River. For more ideas on where to plan your fall fly fishing trip, flip to page 46.
Trail etiquette
28 BEHIND THE LENS Capturing fall colors
40 GEAR BIN
Bikepacking
42 SIPS ‘N’ SUDS
Backpacking with booze
44 KILLER WEEKEND
Crested Butte, Colorado
46 HIDDEN GEMS Fly fishing
48 HOW TO
River trip leader
52 WILD VOICES Jason Antin, mountain guide
56 VISTAS
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photo by Terrance Siemon
E D I TO R ' S N OT E
FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US EDITORIAL
Tiona Eversole editor Terrance Siemon photographer & videographer Laurie Kain photographer & videographer Hunter Harrell copy editor
Some Kind of Magic BY TIONA EVERSOLE
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Brenda Bergreen Danny Frazer Bruce Grubbs Jenny Johnston
Lis McLaughlin Morgan Sjogren Morgan Tilton
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Brenda Bergreen Marc Bergreen Cole Davis Gabriel EllisonScowcroft Bruce Grubbs
Vernan Kee Fred Most Eric Phillips Jess Reynolds Max Seigal Scott DW Smith
A DV E R T I S I N G
Jamie Opalenik director of multimedia sales Amy Baird Joe Nelson Tana Bowen Teressa Nelson Kelly Bulkley Shell Simonson Cole Davis Chandler Sommerfeldt Colleen Donley PRODUCTION
Ryan Brown production manager DESIGN
Tad Smith manager of creative services Gary Markstein designer Bridget Williams designer I N T E R AC T I V E
Jace Reynolds web designer Skylar Bolton web development M A N AG E R
Douglas Bennett chief executive officer Carrie Cass director of finance /ADVENTUREPROMAG @ADVENTUREPROMAG ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE @ADVENTUREPROMAGAZINE ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE
© 2020 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301. Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers. Please write to the editor at the address above.
Fall is accepted as a season of change, and rightly so. We watch with inspired, yet skeptical eyes as the aspen leaves transition in what seems like a wellrehearsed magic trick: lively green at first, followed by fiery shades of crimson, gold and orange — and then all of a sudden, ivory branches, once hidden beneath the shrouds of foliage, stand naked, shivering in the evening chill of dusk. The questions that remain: Are you already prepared for the season’s elusive yet sudden change? Or will you take these transitions as they come — slowly at first, then all at once? Some of us will continue to explore the mountains in our backyard well into winter, while others will seek out the warmth of sandstone walls tucked away in the desert. No matter which direction the road takes us, we welcome the next adventure, no matter how much the world around us has changed. As it is with fall, Adventure Pro Magazine is experiencing a similar shift in seasons. Within the pages of this particular issue, you might find some subtle changes that are to become the catalyst for a shift in the publication. You might find that the Gear Bin is a little more full and defined. Our Behind the Lens department offers photographers additional in-depth tips to capture their own stunning masterpieces. And that the ever-changing world around us has played a part in shaping the features provided by our contributors, both old and new. So don’t blink, or you might miss the final reveal. Stay tuned as we begin to unravel what the future of Adventure Pro Magazine holds for you, and for the adventurer in all of us.
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What’s Online at adventurepro.us? Looking for more stories to fuel your adventurous spirit? Visit our website at www.adventurepro.us, where you will find timely articles on a wide range of topics in our outdoor community, as well as inspiring photography and engaging videos. HERE ARE A FEW OF OUR ONLINE READERS’ FAVORITES: • Meet Mikaela Osler: The New Colorado Trail Women’s Self-Supported Record Holder • The Fascinating Geology of Rainbow Hot Springs • The Alpine: Protecting a Fragile Ecosystem • Fox Women’s 2.5L Ranger Rain Jacket (Video) • Three Classic, High Elevation Mountain Bike Rides in Southwest Colorado • SUPs To Go! • How to Support a Civil Rights Movement from an Isolated Outdoor Community CHANGE IS IN THE AIR. We’re also excited to announce that we’ve got some new changes happening online this fall. Stay tuned as we launch several new projects including profiles on regional businesses and organizations, educational video series and a photo gallery of our reader submitted photos. To submit a photo for our online gallery, click the “Share a Photo” tab on the top-right of the menu. We look forward to sharing even more adventures with you!
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HEALTHCARE PROS We’ll get you back into the
adventure
TAKE THIS PIC
Emergency Room •24 hours/7 days a week Southwest Memorial Hospital 1311 N. Mildred Rd, Cortez CO 911 OR 970-565-6666 •Chest Pain •Eye or Head Injuries •Difficulty Breathing •Shock
•Allergic Reactions •Burns •uncontrolled Bleeding •Fractures
Walk-In Clinic •Monday - Friday 8am - 7pm, Saturday 8am - 3pm
Southwest Medical Group 1413 N. Mildred Rd, Cortez CO
photo by Tiona Eversole
970-564-1037 •Rash •Sprains and strains •Cold, Flu •Minor cuts or burns
•Animal or Insect Bites •Back Pain •Slips and Falls •Sore Throat
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O P E N I N G S H OT
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SHIPROCK, NEW MEXICO There’s a place in the northern New Mexico desert where an impressive landform rises almost 2,000 feet into the open sky. The remnants of volcanic activity from over 30 million years ago, Shiprock is both a geological wonder and a sacred site. To the Navajo people, Shiprock is known as Tsé Bit'a'í, or “rock with wings.” In the oral tradition of the Diné, or the Navajo people, Shiprock is the resting place of a winged monster who was slain by the Diné twin warriors: Naayéé'neizghání (Monster Slayer) and Tóbájíshchíní (Born for Water). Shiprock is considered sacred to the Diné, and nonnative visitors should explore the area with respect by maintaining at least three miles of distance from the formation. photo by Vernan Kee
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O U T D O O R V I TA L S
Showing Courtesy in the Outdoors Basic rules for practicing proper trail etiquette BY LIS MCLAUGHLIN
RIGHT OF WAY To avoid potentially dangerous collisions as well as unpleasant or downright awkward encounters, knowing who has the right of way is immensely helpful. Before embarking on your adventure, learn what kind of traffic is allowed on the intended trail, and mentally prepare yourself to encounter other trail users such as hikers, runners, dog owners, bikers or horseback riders. In general, horses have priority: they can be skittish and spook easily. Getting Mountain bikers must yield to both hikers trampled makes for a terrible day, not to and horseback riders when riding on the mention the added danger to horse and trail. photo by Terrance Siemon rider. If you encounter a horse, step off the trail and keep calm. If the horse sees you behaving nervously, they will consequently become nervous. Do not make any sudden moves and avoid assuming any predatory postures. Speaking in relaxed tones to the rider will help assure the horse that you are no threat. Hikers have second priority to horses, and hikers ascending have priority over hikers or bikers descending. It takes much more effort to climb, and so logically, it is courteous for downhill traffic to yield to uphill traffic. For bikers, another biker riding uphill has the right of way out of courtesy for their exerted effort. Bikers should yield to all non-bikers. Maintain controllable speed and keep an eye and ear out for other visitors on the trail. If you encounter another biker riding faster, let them pass. When uncertain about a situation, yield and step off the trail. It also provides an apt excuse to catch your breath. WILDERNESS PRESERVATION To preserve and maintain trails as well as the surrounding area, avoid widening the trail. Riding or hiking off the trail tramples the vegetation and can cause drainage issues that are difficult to repair. Try to avoid recreating on muddy trails, but if you should encounter a
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puddle, go through it instead of around. Putting this into practice will help keep trails pristine and preserve the natural vegetation. As tempting as it may be to step off the beaten path and forge your own way, it is best to stay where humans should: on the trail. Traveling off the established trail creates social trails. Social trails are caused by foot traffic in areas originally untouched by man, and therefore endanger the local flora and fauna as well as other recreationists. It’s not only dangerous to yourself to leave the trail, but is also a threat to the natural order of the surrounding environment. DOGS ON THE TRAIL Bringing your furry companion should be a joy for all involved. Before bringing your dog with you, make sure that the intended trail is dog-friendly. Adversely, your dog should exhibit trail friendly behaviors. Yield to all other traffic on the trail. If there is a leash law, abide by it (a waist leash is a great, hands-free and convenient option). If there is no leash law and you would like to let your dog run free, make sure that they respond to commands and come when called. As a rule, it is always a good idea to leash when passing other traffic, especially another dog. Keep in mind that while your furry friend may be friendly, other dogs may be fearful, aggressive or undergoing obedience training. Your buddy running up on another dog may result in an unpleasant situation. Which leads us to the question: how do you know if your dog is trail ready? If your dog is aggressive, barks, lunges at passersby, chases wildlife or does not heel on command, your pup could use a little more training. To help maintain the trail and preserve wildlife, tread lightly and keep your dog on the trail to avoid widening the trail and trampling vegetation. And don’t forget to pack out your furry friend’s waste.
LIS McLAUGHLIN his a full-time manufacturer in the cannabis industry and freelance writer based in Durango, Colorado. In her free time, she is an outdoor recreationalist, fitness enthusiast and avid pursuer of knowledge.
A trailhead sign provides a simple image that is helpful to remind trail users who has right of way. photo by Tiona Eversole
For any outdoor activity, there are certain etiquettes in place that are learned from prolonged experience. These courtesies are not only vital to harmonious interaction between other wilderness visitors, but also help to protect and preserve wildlife while maintaining our beloved trails. All people wishing to hit the trail to soak in sunshine, breathe the fresh mountain air and let their eyes devour the colorful autumn leaves should be acquainted with the basic courtesies. If you are a beginner trail user, having a better understanding of trail etiquette will simply help you appear less like a newbie — while also doing the right thing. And for the experienced, a refresher never hurts.
If you plan on letting your dogs run off leash while on the trail, make sure they are trained using voice commands and will come when called. photo by Terrance Siemon
The 3,000-foot deep gorge of the Little Colorado River meeting the Colorado River in eastern Grand Canyon. photo by Bruce Grubbs 10 |
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Aerial Hiker Viewing trails from the sky has a way of changing one’s perspective BY BRUCE GRUBBS
GROWING UP It took me a long time to decide what I wanted to do when I grew up. I’ve worked retail in a gear shop, spent 11 summers fighting wildland fires and owned an outdoor store. But there’s never been any doubt about hiking and backpacking — I’ve always been addicted to hiking since my teens. I’ve also been into rock climbing and mountaineering, cross-country and alpine skiing, sea and whitewater kayaking and mountain biking. But hiking is what I always come back to, no matter what. After several career changes, I became a professional pilot. No, not driving airliners. I like little planes; so I started out, like many pilots, as a flight instructor. Instructors teach in the smallest of planes, usually two- or four-seaters. And as in so many things, I really began to learn about flying and airmanship when I started to instruct. Although I enjoyed instruction, what I ultimately wanted to do was fly charters and tours in propeller airplanes. The great thing about small planes is that they are flown low, generally under the clouds, if any exist. And so everyone has an intimate view of the landscape as it rolls past. Flying past the high mountains of northern Arizona, I can watch the winter snows recede and then watch the quaking aspen trees green up entire mountainsides. And I can watch (from a safe distance) as summer thunderstorms boil up over the mountains and flick them with lightning strikes. HIDDEN CONTOURS Hiking and exploring, especially off-trail and in little traveled areas, means that you get to know maps. And I’ve always liked maps — especially topographic maps that show the detail of the terrain. Just a glance at these maps shows you the steep and gentle terrain and how trails work through the landscape. Hidden contour lines on a steep slope or along a canyon bottom reveal where cliffs may block the way. And broad canyon bottoms with few contour lines hint at stream side meadows which could be magical campsites. Or maybe that flat ridge just above may be an even better campsite, with distant views. ABOVE IT ALL Yep, I’ve always liked the view from an airplane, above mountaintops and canyon rims. So it was pretty natural for me to work four summers on a U.S. Forest Service fire lookout. Living in a glass box on the top of a mountain gave me a unique perspective. It was a joy to watch the seasons change. Feeling the tower shake in the blast of the spring winds was something I could have done without, but I tolerated it knowing that the breathless hot days of summer would follow. And then relief when the moist air of the monsoon started moving up from the south, putting clouds in the sky for the first time in two months, firing
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The meandering canyon of the San Juan River, before 10,328-foot Navajo Mountain. photo by Bruce Grubbs F A L L 2 0 2 0
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The red rocks of Sedona, looking northwest toward Wilson Mountain.
photo by Bruce Grubbs
off afternoon thunderstorms that hit the tower with hail, lightning and torrential rain and starting forest fires. Summer monsoon rains saturate and raise seasonal springs and creeks — a delight on my early morning and evening walks, when I’m off duty. By this time in the year, the days are starting to get noticeably shorter and the noontime shadows longer. And then the monsoon ends and the nip of fall is in the air, along with a few splashes of bright red from the maples turning color. Fire season is just about over, and I’ve watched the whole cycle from my mountaintop perch. AERIAL PATROL After a stint of instructing, I got the first of several jobs flying charters and tours. Since then, I’ve been regularly patrolling the skies of the Southwest, keeping an eye on things. Flying at low altitude, it’s very much the same perspective as the fire lookout, only constantly changing. And yes, I get to report the occasional lightning or human-caused wildfire. I’ve watched as massive shafts of rain suddenly saturate several square miles of plateau, then see flash floods roar down canyons in a muddy froth of foam and debris. And I’ve seen 500-foot waterfalls leap over sheer cliffs as floodwaters reach the rims of deep canyons. I’ve seen the high desert turn from the seared yellow and brown of high summer into a lush green landscape dotted with small lakes, ponds and streams as an unusually wet monsoon pummeled the Southwest with storm after storm. And then, of course, I get to see mountainsides and high plateaus turn yellow, orange and red as the aspen change color in the fall, followed by the first dusting of snow on the highest peaks. Geology really reveals its secrets to me as I fly over the stony landscape. I can see the craters atop the numerous cinder cones and volcanoes in northern Arizona, and the miles-long lava flows that once poured across the landscape. I can see where lava flows once filled and blocked canyons, forming huge lakes that have since vanished. I fly around the tower eroded cores of ancient volcanoes, now gone except for the solidified neck to the volcano where liquid rock once raced to the surface. I can trace monoclines, where rocks have been warped upward to a higher level, for 100 miles across the desert and forest. Flying over canyons, I can see the scars where recent rockfall has widened that canyon by just a little bit. I’ve even seen dust rising from rockfall that has just happened. 12 |
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CONNECTIONS Not too long ago, a couple of friends and I did an 11-day hike in the far east region of Grand Canyon National Park, a section that I regularly fly over on air tours. While planning the trip, which would be almost entirely cross-country, I realized that I was visualizing the terrain as if I was flying over it. Actually, it was kind of a connected overview from the topo maps, my aerial memory and my experiences hiking in the terrain. The trip would start with a descent off the rim down a steep ravine. We had a choice of two ravines, one facing north and one facing south. But it had been a snowy spring and it was likely that the north-facing ravine would be full of snow, while the southfacing one would be dry. However, there were a few missing contour lines in the south-facing ravine that could mean cliffs too high to navigate with our limited climbing gear. So, the next time I flew a tour over the area, I had a good look. And I could clearly see that the small cliffs were bypassed by ledges leading to talus slopes — nothing we couldn’t work our way down, even if we had to lower packs on a rope on some of the trickier sections. And so it proved on the trip. Another 10-day trip into the central Grand Canyon would also start with a cross-country descent down a steep slope below the North Rim. This time the problem was brush, 10-foot high chaparral with black locust mixed in for additional fun. But a quick look from the air revealed that one of the ravines draining the slope had been scoured clear of brush by recent floods and would get us through the brush zone into more open terrain below. Of course, there’s also a peculiar trap — thinking that because I can fly over a section in a minute or two that it’ll be an easy hike! It only took me 15 minutes to fly the route of that 10-day hike. I also really enjoy looking back at trips I’ve done as I fly over an area. There’s the ridge we dry camped with a unique midlevel view of the eastern Grand Canyon. And there’s the weird circular prehistoric structure I found deep in a desert wilderness, nearly hidden in the brush. And there’s the huge boulder that provided welcome shade on a lunch stop on a remote red rock sandstone terrace. From 3,000 feet above, I can clearly see that old prospector trail that we unexpectedly found which turned a rough finish to the day into an easy jaunt to our campsite. And it never stops. Hmmm, I wonder if that ridge offers a way through that cliff band?
BRUCE GRUBBS has been hiking, backpacking, cross-country skiing, kayaking, mountain biking and otherwise exploring the American Southwest for several decades. He is the author of more than thirty outdoor and travel books.
A stormy sunset on a repositioning flight to the Grand Canyon. photo by Bruce Grubbs
The Echo Cliffs — a monocline parallel to US 89 in northern Arizona. photo by Bruce Grubbs
Writer Morgan Tilton rides the narrow, exposed singletrack of Zippity Do Da, a 2.4-mile one-way, difficult trail at 18 Road, north of Fruita. In the background, the Book Cliffs—the longest continuous escarpment in the world—towers 1,000 feet above the trail system and designated campsites ($10 per night). photo by Eric Phillips
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Fruita’s Mountain Biking Legacy This high-desert town became a stronghold for singletrack in the 1990s and is making a comeback B Y M O R G A N T I LT O N
It’s 5:45 a.m. I stand with my mountain bike at the top of 18 Road, an iconic collection of singletrack 11 miles north of Fruita, Colorado. Behind me, a citadel of desert buttes rises more than 1,000 feet above the grainy trails. On the cliffs in front of me, gravel aprons fan outward resembling the fabric folds in a long skirt. A series of rolling trails follows the southbound contours of those mounds descending from the bottom of the bluffs. Beyond the trails, Grand Valley farmlands and Fruita’s rooftops fill the distance. The skyline is held by McInnis Canyons, which are lit by the rising sun. The uppermost sandstone tiers radiate a warm watermelon hue. My hands tingle with excitement for this dawn patrol. Below me, Joe’s Ridge is a continuous 2-mile rollercoaster plunge that’s punctuated by punchy uphills and short, stomach-raising descents. The ride should take all but 15 minutes to pedal. I lock my eyes onto the smooth, narrow route and gleefully drop in. By the end, I’m grinning ear to ear and my quads are shook — the track does not disappoint. I spend the rest of the morning taking laps down PBR, Kessel Run and Zippity Do Da. Between each downhill, we ascend Prime Cut, the uphill-only trail. It’s hard to believe that just yesterday my partner and I road-tripped a few hours from our doorstep in Crested Butte to check out this mountain biking paradise. We quickly decided one trip is not enough — we’ll definitely be back for more. FRUITA’S ANCIENT LANDSCAPE Fruita is home to nearly 134 miles of singletrack between 18 Road and Kokopelli Loops, the two core areas for mountain bikers. The broader region offers even more miles of designated trails including the networks of Grand Junction and Rabbit Valley, which is open to motorized vehicles. There’s also the acclaimed 144-mile Kokopelli Trail from Fruita to Moab, Utah. To top it off, this high-desert town — population 13,000 — is surrounded by 1.6 million acres of public land and geological gems. Along U.S. Route 50 between Grand Junction and Fruita, the Colorado National Monument fills the roadside views to the south. The steep canyon walls are a mix of vermillion and almond tones, and they’re spotted by piñon-juniper woodland. Closer to Fruita, the monument indiscernibly transitions into the McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area, a treasured landscape full of pictographs, petroglyphs and the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness: a 75,000acre expanse with the second largest concentration of natural arches in North America. The Colorado River carves through the northern wilderness boundary, where Fruita’s famous technical trails — the Kokopelli Loops — boast a bird’s-eye view of the refreshing, steel blue water against the arid, rocky terrain. To the north is Fruita’s hive of smooth singletrack: 18 Road, which abuts the Book Cliffs, a geological uplift with steep terraces of sandstone and shale. The entire range stretches 215 miles from Palisade, Colorado, to Castlegate, Utah. It’s the longest continuous escarpment in the world. Compared to Kokopelli Loops, 18 Road offers more beginner-friendly trails with limited exposure and technical features.
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Writer Morgan Tilton pedals her mountain bike past Over the Edge Sports, an iconic bike shop that’s expanded to six locations worldwide, in downtown Fruita. Troy Rarick, the shop’s founder, pioneered the area’s mountain bike trail and community development more than 25 years ago. photo by Eric Phillips
RAUCOUS PARTIES AND CATTLE After day one at 18 Road, my partner and I hop on cruisers and pedal a few minutes from the historic Sagebrush, a 114-year-old ornamental vacation rental, to Hot Tomato in downtown Fruita. The quaint restaurant’s mustard yellow facade and metal bicycle sculptures are inviting, and the fenced-in patio area is shaded by a giant cottonwood. This famed pizzeria is spotlit in the documentary, Life of Pie, and received the “Best of the Rockies 2020” award from Elevation Outdoors Magazine. Lucky for us, Hot Tomato owners and life partners Jen Zeuner and Anne Keller join us for dinner. The four of us sit at an outdoor picnic table, share the Granny’s Pesto and Noni pizzas, and chat about the history of Fruita’s mountain biking. Zeuner and Keller met in Moab. Site unseen, Keller had relocated to Moab for a bike guiding gig. Eventually, she worked at the Chile Pepper Bike Shop, and Zeuner walked into the store one day. She recently retired from professional mountain bike racing, was working for a sunglasses company, and moved to Moab from Durango, Colorado. Soon after, Keller invited Zeuner to go mountain biking in Fruita. That day changed their life trajectory. “Moab has amazing singletrack now, because they’ve really devoted a lot of resources towards it,” Keller said. “But at the time, in ’99, they just had jeep roads. You could ride Slickrock Trail, Amasa Back jeep road or Poison Spider Mesa, which sucked. Fruita was where the trails were.” “I remember thinking, when I moved to Moab, ‘There’s no mountain biking — it’s all doubletrack!’” Zeuner said. “Then, Anne took me to Fruita, and I was like ‘whoa.’” They moved to Fruita a few years later in 2002. Zeuner and Keller both worked at Over the Edge Sports before opening Hot Tomato in 2005. Developing a town pizza shop was partially inspired by their bike shop customers, who often vocalized that they needed a place to tell stories and eat good food. At the time, Fruita was pretty quiet with shuttered stores and a dusty Aspen Avenue full of potential. In 1982, a historic oil shale bust had shattered the Grand Valley economy. By 1987, nearly 10,000 jobs had been lost. Around that time, a group of mountain bikers started to build trails. The Colorado Plateau Mountain Bike Trail Association
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(COPMOBA) was founded and completed their inaugural project in 1989 — the Kokopelli Trail. The following year they constructed Mary’s, the original circuit at Kokopelli Loops. At least a portion of Fruita’s earliest trails were inspired by cattle paths. “Locals started riding on cow trails,” said Fruita City Manager Mike Bennet. “Then they started building trails. Today, people still have grazing permits for their cows (in riding areas),” which explains the occasional lines of petrified hoof prints and patties that decorate the wooded singletrack at 18 Road. One pioneer who helped spearhead Fruita’s grassroots trail development was Troy Rarick, cofounder of Over the Edge Sports. “Like 50 hardcore mountain bikers would always show up and give a lot of effort on trail days,” Zeuner said. “Not everybody was digging. Some people had food on the grill or beers in the cooler, and others watched the kids. It was very community-oriented and tight-knit. Everybody would camp out.” And in 1995, Rarick launched the Fat Tire Festival and 18 Hours to Fruita events, which brought folks together and stimulated the industry. “Troy deserves a lot of credit,” Keller said. “He certainly put Fruita on the map for mountain biking and he’s always been a fantastic community builder. He pulled all types of people to the Fat Tire Festival — from surly guys from Minneapolis to different bike companies like Kona Bikes.” The Fat Tire Festival is now a family-friendly, low-key event. But back in the day, the festival was a whiskey-shooting, beer-drinking, donut-gulping rowdy time with no rules and no helmets. Sans regulations, the raucous gathering grew in size and became a liability. “Guys would smoke cigarettes and ride their single-speeds everywhere in their jean shorts and cut-off flannels,” Zeuner said. “A dude in overalls would wave the flag during the Clunker Crit race — a dude who doesn’t even own a bike, and he’d also be the first one to come out with his tractor and help us do trail building. It was brilliant how Troy could bring people together. And it was a really fun time.” We devour the savory pies and bike the few blocks back to the Sagebrush. My partner and I take a seat on the wrap-around porch to watch the peach and strawberry colored sunset. Countless cyclists, cruisers and mountain bikers of all ages roll past. It’s pretty clear, bicycling is embedded into this place.
ROGUE TRAILS “If you only have one day to ride in Fruita, ride Horsethief Bench,” Zeuner said. “It’s technical and beautiful.” So, we head straight to Kokopelli Loops in the morning. We warm up on Rustler’s, a non-technical, pebble-strewn and fairly level loop across a dry mesa top. Blonde tufts of sand-grass, cactus and sagebrush are scattered throughout the soil around us. The trail is completely exposed. We spin into the southeast corner and the bluff drops 200 feet to the aegean Colorado River. We close Rustler’s and head toward Horsethief Bench. We throw our bikes over our shoulders to hike the infamous drop-in segment that connects the canyon rim to the bench below: a gnarly, exposed descent full of 2- to 4-foot drops. “When we first moved here, the drop-in was not as consequential,” Keller said. “It started as a dirt road for ranching access. The dirt road had a rock ledge and there was one drop at the bottom that was 1.5 feet tall. It was steep enough that the sand on rock eroded over the years. It became this nightmare.” At the bottom, we drop into the singletrack along the edge of the canyon wall and roll down a lengthy slickrock slab. After a string of technical drops through the piñon pines, the trail reaches the edge of Horsethief Canyon with expansive views of the Colorado River. The meandering trail is peppered with enough rocks and slopes to require my attention, though I steal glances of the fast-flowing current below. A mile later, we turn away from the precipice and ride into a side canyon. The boulder-filled trail delivers several exposed drops until we reach a notoriously narrow ledge that we both walk. This is Dead Cow canyon. Cattle are allowed to graze in this area and two have died from falling off this cliff since Keller and Zeuner moved here.
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Hot Tomato Owners and life partners Jen Zeuner and Anne Keller hold up two tasty pies—the Granny’s Pesto and Noni pizzas—outside the restaurant’s front door in downtown Fruita, CO. photo by Eric Phillips
Writer Morgan Tilton navigates the technical rock drops and fun flow of Horsethief Bench, an intermediate/difficult ride in the Kokopelli Loops trail system, which overlooks the Colorado River’s Ruby-Horsethief Canyon. photo by Eric Phillips
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Writer Morgan Tilton mountain bikes westbound on the Frontside trail, which rollercoasters along the edge of the Book Cliffs from the northernmost parking area to several trails. photo by Eric Phillips
“You can’t really get a cow out of there,” Keller said. “Riders would go by and put stuff on their stiff body, like a bike helmet.” Fruita’s mountain bike community of yore was quirky, unique and full of passion, as the sport’s early adopters, Keller said. Although, the culture change and business growth have brought a wave of positives. Recreation tourism, with mountain biking at the helm, has created a sustainable economy for the locals. Furthermore, many of the area’s first trails were developed illegally without permission from the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which led to a halt of development and decommissioned trails. The Icarus pizza on Hot Tomato’s menu is named after the Flight of Icarus, an illegally-built, formerly popular trail that was shut down shortly after Keller and Zeuner moved here. During that clash between locals and land managers, surrounding areas like Moab took note. “Other communities saw an opportunity to create a development plan — they didn’t want to fall into what was happening here,” Zeuner said. “We had all of these amazing trails, and then we had nothing for years.” Despite said hiatus, the trails here offer plenty of variety, challenge, coasting and scenic adventure. As my partner and I continue to grind up the canyon, the gravel and sand beneath our tires becomes a light violet stone. The waffle-thin rock steps remind me of scalloped potatoes. The trail threads us through towering petrified sand dunes that alternate between honey and blush colors. The cliff band is full of weathered arches, caves, spires and towers. It feels like a window into a historic world. GROWTH ON THE HORIZON Mountain biking, gravel riding and road cycling are all on the rise in Fruita. The growth is supported by a strong cooperation that now exists between the locals and land management, which has been cultivated over the past two decades. “Mountain biking is a legitimate industry that employs people and generates revenue to make the town viable,” said Kevin Godar, owner of Colorado Backcountry Biker (CBB). “I give a lot of credit to the BLM, City of Fruita and COPMOBA for working together. They’ve been instrumental in building the trails, infrastructure, maintenance and managing visitors.” The CBB hosts three weekly community shop rides: a mountain
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bike meet-up at 18 Road, a gravel ride and a road ride that starts at the downtown store. Fifty riders usually show up to each one. “In Fruita, you can be out on the farm roads and out of traffic in a couple of blocks,” Godar said. “The road biking is great.” Furthermore, seasonal tourism has leveled out, which the local bike shops and restaurants began to notice about six years ago. Now, Hot Tomato can keep their employees on staff year-round. That said, spring and fall are still the most popular seasons. It’s not really possible to mountain bike in Fruita in the winter because the soil contains bentonite and doesn’t dry fast. But the cold-weather road biking is decent, Zeuner said. Up ahead, Fruita’s new gravel event is expected debut this October: the Co2uT. The race offers five different loop or lollipop routes between 30 to 190 miles that start in Fruita and a handful extend to Utah. In January 2021, the city will introduce an additional 3% lodging tax for short term rentals and hotels which will fund trails, parks and open space projects in and around the city, as well as business development. The current 3% lodging tax, which is used for the city’s marketing and promotion, raised nearly $128,000 in the last two years. Based on that data, an average of $64,000 per year will be collected to support the expansion and maintenance of Fruita’s outdoor spaces. In addition, a master plan was recently approved to add new trails at 18 Road. “Additions will include a pump track, 30 miles of new trails and 100 new campsites,” Bennet said. “We received a grant from Colorado Parks and Wildlife, which will cover the environmental studies. The city will fundraise the funds to complete the plan.” During our final evening in Fruita, my partner and I approach 18 Road for a closing sunset session on our favorite trail, Joe’s Ridge. I look around and can’t imagine what the upcoming trail expansion will be like when it’s finished. But based on the current arrangement and design, the new trails will be rhythmic, playful and exciting. I can’t wait to experience Fruita’s next phase. In the meantime, we have plenty of classic trails to keep us entertained.
MORGAN TILTON is an award-winning travel and adventure writer for close to 60 publications. She lives in the Elk Mountains, where she scrambles and ropesup for rock ascents, ties into trail running shoes, clicks into skis or bike and clips into a snowboard or splitboard.
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8/26/20 11:08 AM
Sarah Lavender Smith: COVID-19 rerouted Sarah Lavender Smith's goals, but not her passion for running. photo courtesy of Grand to Grand Ultra
Shifting Focus Four Corners athletes redefine goals and refocus training amidst pandemic BY MORGAN SJOGREN
During the first COVID-19 related shelter in place ordinances this past March, Sarah Lavender Smith, a trail runner and coach from Telluride, Colorado, braced herself for modifications to her training and racing schedule. Dealing with the virus itself quickly took this to another level. “Our household came down with COVID-19 in late March. My two college-aged kids and I got mild cases, but my husband got a serious case and required hospitalization, followed by a month-long recovery with supplemental oxygen,” Smith said. Though Smith and her family all made a full recovery, it required some major adjustments to her training and goals. Physical and emotional exhaustion from coping with the illness led Smith to put her training on hold during the month of April. She wanted to do everything possible to stay healthy and take care of her family. So for a couple of weeks, Smith only did gentle yoga and took short walks. “The way the pandemic threatened my husband’s life and also jeopardized his business took an emotional toll and made me refocus my training purely on good health,” Smith said. Smith was supposed to race both a 50-mile trail ultra and the Boston Marathon in April, followed by a 155-mile, self-supported stage race in May. Due to the turn of events, Smith was unable to race in any of these events, and felt as if she could barely run a 10K. “I gave myself time to rest and recover and return to running gradually and slowly, with a renewed appreciation for the simple act of running,” Smith said. “I was reminded of the old saying, ‘Your health is your wealth.’” Professional climber Chris Schulte, typically a nomad frequently roaming the Four Corners, also found himself in a tricky pandemic situation. “I went to Europe at the beginning of March for bouldering in Fontainebleau (France) and Switzerland, followed by a traditional climbing trip in Italy,” Schulte said. “After we reached Switzerland, one week into our four-week trip, Italy closed its borders. Switzerland soon followed, then the rest of Europe and much of the world.” Sheltering in place in a foreign country with no certain end date posed its own challenges, yet the ability to climb gave Schulte an outlet and a renewed perspective for the sport he loves.
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Mike on the Cochise Stronghold classic What's My Line 5.6 A0. Chiricahua Apache Homelands. photo by Gabriel Ellison-Scowcroft
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A regular training regimen and alpine air have helped Kelly Halpin stay focused. photo by Fred Most
“Switzerland never banned climbing or hiking outdoors, so we didn’t have to change much of anything beyond our list of primary goals,” Schulte said. “We went to smaller, out-of-the-way areas, cleaned a bunch of new climbs and generally had a good time in a small quiet country with the borders closed. It was a lot like climbing was 20 years ago!” Even when not directly impacted by COVID-19, athletes in the Southwest are continuing to refocus their goals and modify their training plans to exercise caution and care amidst the pandemic. Aaron Mike, a climber and guide in Flagstaff, Arizona, explains how his plans have changed. “At this point all of my future goals are tentative and relative to what we observe regarding COVID,” Mike said. “I am trying to avoid setting big concrete goals quite yet because we are still seeing spikes in COVID cases, and I want to manage my own expectations with safety being the overall lens.” Instead of forcing his old training methods into this situation, he is exploring new techniques that he can use at home. So he built a hang board that he uses daily for low-intensity finger conditioning. “After COVID precautions were put in place, my home hang board became my primary training tool on which I had to get creative in order to keep full body conditioning without inviting overuse injury,” Mike said. “The mental training is a bit harder to maintain because for me it generally comes through actual climbing.” Mike’s solution to this has been exploring meditation and breathing exercises, as well as engaging in other COVID-safe activities.
Climber Chris Schulte navigated COVID-19 spring shutdowns while in Europe. photo by Jess Reynolds
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Yet for mountain athlete Kelly Halpin, who splits her time between Moab, Utah, and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, maintaining a normal training routine has helped her lean on the structure in her life and stay focused. “I did make sure my runs stayed local, so I ended up training on the same trails near my house over and over again,” Halpin said. “I'm certainly not complaining, however, since there were so many people stuck in cities with no trail access nearby. Now that the national park (Grand Teton) is slowly starting to open, I'm looking forward to expanding some of my runs but making sure to choose less popular trails that won't be as crowded.” In lieu of organized races, Halpin planned to attempt several fastest known times (FKT) in wilderness areas this fall. “I'm lucky in the sense that I did not have any race plans fall through,” Halpin said. “I did, however, have to change around some of my FKT attempts.” With the COVID-19 scare behind her, Smith has once again resumed her training and competition, albeit virtually. In late May, Smith participated in a virtual vertical challenge with the goal of completing as much elevation gain as possible in a week. “This challenge motivated me to push my personal limits and to enjoy a different kind of challenge — one geared more to hiking than running, and that had little to do with speed and everything to do with vertical gain — and it also gave me license to take a week to spend the better part of each day on the trail, like a retreat,” Smith said. Smith’s goal was to reach 100 miles and 33,000 feet of gain, the equivalent of a tough mountain 100-miler that she’s used to doing. When Smith met that goal midweek, she kept going. Ultimately, she reached 179 miles total and achieved the event’s highest challenge, a Double Everest climb of over 58,000 feet all on highaltitude mountain trails. “It was exhausting but thoroughly satisfying,” Smith said. Smith’s strength and recovery and Schulte’s improvisation prove that resiliency is possible, even in challenging circumstances. Like these professional outdoor athletes in the Four Corners, it is possible to maintain fitness and work toward long-term goals while remaining safe to protect yourself and others. As these athletes demonstrate, the circumstances and adjustments are different for everyone, yet athletic activities remain a way to maintain health and well-being during these difficult times.
MORGAN SJOGREN is a free-range raconteur typically found roaming wild in the Colorado Plateau, but is now quarantined in southwest Colorado. During the pandemic, Morgan reframed her athletic goals to: get outside, feel good and have fun.
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Nature’s Healing Gifts The benefits of reconnecting with the natural world and spending more time outdoors BY DA N N Y F R A Z E R
Here in the Four Corners region, the majority of us have experienced the benefits of nature firsthand. Perhaps it’s why some of us are here in the first place. It’s no secret that it’s healthy to get outside and breathe in the fresh air. In our increasingly digital and urbanized modern world, why do we — or should we — choose to venture out-of-doors? How can nature be a helpful remedy to any number of relational, emotional, mental, physical or spiritual challenges we face today? A NECESSITY FOR DEVELOPMENT AND HEALTH Nature benefits our health through even the most basic level of interaction: viewing it. Studies have shown that hospital patients with views of green space, flowers or water from their hospital bed experienced healthier outcomes in recovery time and anxiety levels than those who look out at a brick wall instead. Research from the University of Illinois at UrbanaChampaign on Chicago’s public housing neighborhoods found that those with trees outside their windows or near their doorsteps knew and socialized more with neighbors, had a stronger sense of community and felt safer than those in buildings without trees. Another study from the journal Landscape and Urban Planning found that views of nature from the classroom had more positive impacts on both
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cognition and stress recovery for students than views of parking lots or urban settings. Going a step further, research indicates that being in nature is beneficial mentally and physically. I’m particularly drawn to the work of journalist Richard Louv, who coined the term nature-deficit disorder in his book, "Last Child in the Woods." Though not a formal medical diagnosis, this term describes the human costs of being more and more alienated from nature. Louv brings together new — and ever-expanding — research that links decreased time in nature with increased obesity, attention disorders and depression in childhood development, as well as increased harm to mental, emotional, spiritual and physical health. Through his research Louv concludes that, in essence, access to nature is a human right and a necessity for healthy development, emotional health and physical health for both children and adults. What is so compelling about the findings above is that interaction with natural stimuli at any level will benefit our health. Many people are drawn to the Four Corners by the access to nature experiences such as hiking, rock climbing, kayaking, skiing and biking. Arguably, there are also a lot of people who live here simply for the view of the mountains, or the ability to walk to the river and listen to the rapids. A person does not have to move to Walden Pond like Henry David Thoreau to begin healing from nature.
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Open Sky Wilderness staff and students scan the horizon during an expedition in Southeast Utah. photo courtesy of Open Sky Wilderness Therapy
A moment of reflection at sunset. photo courtesy of Open Sky Wilderness Therapy
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FROM HYPERSTIMULATION TO SOFT FOCUS So, what is it about being surrounded by the wilderness that helps us heal? And what happens when we move from simply viewing the trees from our windows to stepping foot in the forest? From a broad sense, how is it “healing” to be in nature? As humans living on this planet, we inherently face the stress of daily demands, pressures and expectations. If we don’t heal from those everyday stressors, reframe the everyday negative messages we receive and set aside the everyday distractions once in a while, our state of health will deteriorate. Being in nature allows for “soft focus” of the brain. The nervous system begins to wind down from the “fight or flight” arousal state brought on by our hyper-stimulated modern world. We are stimulated by trees instead of billboards, birdsong instead of sirens, sunlight and moonlight instead of blue light from an electronic device. Our nervous systems relax within structure. Nowhere is there such structure of order, and homeostasis quite like that in nature. Plants and animals are interdependent. Water cycles through its various forms to bring life. On a micro level, the sun provides food to plants for photosynthesis and on a macro level, it steers the passing of days and changing of seasons. Life and death come and go. In my own personal experience and in my years of professional work with young people in the wilderness, nature is a source of harmony, renewal, strength and balance. These are all healing properties. NATURE’S GIFT OF METAPHOR Each person has a unique relationship with nature, informed by our upbringing and culture. We personify, project and interpret it differently. The trail you and I hike is an entirely different experience for each of us, based on what we’re grappling with, what we’re curious about and what remains unanswered within us.
Regardless of our differences, one thing we can all strive toward is being open and inquisitive. Metaphor is absolutely everywhere in nature and we can all heal through it. What do we learn? What parallels do we draw to the world or our own lives? I notice a leaf on the ground. The leaf has veins; I have veins. It’s green now, attached to the branch, which is attached to the tree, which extends beneath the ground to the root system. I’m healthy when I’m connected to something bigger than myself; a community of support or a higher power. When the leaf falls, it will become brown; disconnected from that system. How does my health suffer when I disconnect from those connections? I walk past the same tree every day. Throughout the year, I notice how the tree changes with the seasons. In turn, I am reminded that in life, there are seasons, darkness and the emergence of spring. There is the falling of leaves and branches, which then regenerate the soil from which I grow. I see the stars at night and realize there's something beyond me. I’ve been so focused on myself and my own problems. And that brief moment pulls me out of my self-loathing and shows me there is more to this world in this moment than what is distressing me. The gift of nature is that it is for everyone: it’s both poetic and concrete, creative and scientific. Nature always has a story to tell, a lesson to teach and a metaphor to unfold. It asks questions and answers them. By stepping away from life’s distractions and into nature, can we be curious and receptive to whatever emerges? Can we listen and follow our instincts? Can we allow nature to spark a spontaneous insight that will help us lead a fuller life; a life of healing?
DANNY FRAZER is the program director and co-founder of Open Sky Wilderness Therapy, a Durango-based outdoor therapeutic treatment program for struggling adolescents and young adults. The connection he feels to the wilderness has become his life’s calling, and he is dedicated to facilitating healing experiences in nature for teens, young adults and families.
Exploring the beautiful landscape of Southeast Utah. photo by Scott DW Smith/ Imagesmith Photo
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Capturing Fall Colors
BEHIND THE LENS
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TERRANCE SIEMON
Fall photography is all about color — and the colors in autumn are fleeting. The leaves change at a moment’s notice, which makes timing everything if you want to capture the peak colors. Here are a few tips to make this year's photo excursion to capture fall colors stand out from seasons past.
SONY A7iii lens 70-200mm aperture f/9 exposure 1/160 focal length 70mm iso 80 camera
SCOUTING Because the window for peak season is so short, knowing where you want to go to find colors is the key to a successful shoot. Before the temperatures drop and the colors change, find a place that you know will pop. Maybe last year you saw a certain aspen grove that stood out to you. When you're in the mountains in the spring or summer, keep in mind the places that you know will look good in September and October.
SONY A7iii lens 70-200mm aperture f/11 exposure 1/250 focal length 138mm iso 400 camera
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SONY A7iii lens 70-200mm aperture f/4 exposure 1/2500 focal length 70mm iso 320 camera
LIGHTING This is still just as important in fall photos as it is in any photograph. Shoot in good light. That means staying away from harsh, middle-of-theday light with bright sunny conditions. Wait for sunset and let the light hit the leaves at an angle. Or try shooting on a cloudy day. You'll get much better light and softer contrast. COMPOSITION Including more than just the trees in the photos can help the overall composition of your photo. Use a road, trail or horizon to show the context of the fall colors. Also, including an object in the foreground helps. Think of how you would lay out a basic landscape photo, but with fall as the main subject. Including the white trunks of aspens makes for a nice contrast and gives the images a unique texture or pattern as well. WEATHER Keep an eye on the weather when peak season is on the horizon. You could potentially miss the window if a cold front rolls in. However, shooting in inclement weather can really add drama to your photographs. Foggy mornings, hazy sunsets and the first snow-dusted peaks above the trees are impressive elements to keep in mind to capture the perfect fall photo.
SONY A7iii lens 70-200mm aperture f/4 exposure 1/250 focal length 70mm iso 400 camera
Ouray’s New Via Ferrata Colorado is becoming a national nexus of vie ferrate B Y M O R G A N T I LT O N
A plummeting cascade roars beneath me, and the cool breeze brushes my forearms as I traverse the Cable Bridge over the Uncompahgre River. I grip two suspended metal rails on either side of my head and inch my feet forward on the single steel cable beneath my approach shoes, like a high-wire acrobat on a tightrope. Halfway across the 35-foot connector, I pause to look over my right shoulder and upstream at the Uncompahgre Gorge. The craggy, grey slopes steeply arch into the river like dorsal fins. The canyon’s cracks, ledges and terraces are decorated with shamrockcolored shrubs and stunted ponderosa pines. I consider the ancient backdrop of this cable bridge, which was installed less than 12 months ago: rust- and lime-toned quartzite that dates back 1.7 billion years. This raw, magnificent landscape makes me feel like an explorer entering an unmapped pocket in the peaks. I mindfully shuttle to the ravine’s east wall. I’m climbing into the mouth of the country’s newest and most novel via ferrata on the southern edge of Ouray, in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. Via ferrata is Italian for "iron path." A via ferrata involves climbing or hiking along an established route with metal holds and cables that are affixed to a vertical rock face. The anchored features range from rungs, steps and ladders to bridges, which allow recreationists to travel across otherwise impassable terrain.
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Owner of San Juan Mountain Guides Nate Disser stands with his two kids Addison, 9, and Mason, 11, outside the Ouray Via Ferrata Information Center on Main Street in Ouray. photo by Eric Phillips
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With the Uncompahgre River below, IFMGA Mountain Guide Nate Disser and Writer Morgan Tilton climb the vertical arrangement of rungs called Stairway to Heaven. photo by Eric Phillips
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For safety, a climber wears protective, grippy gloves and footwear, as well as a climbing helmet, harness and via ferrata set: a certified lanyard system with two self-locking carabiners, which are clipped into the continuous cable system. Despite the fact that I haven’t rock climbed in nine months, I feel secure and at ease with this straightforward setup. Ahead of me on the iron path is rockstar Nate Disser, an IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Association) Mountain Guide and owner of San Juan Mountain Guides (SJMG). He’s also the co-founder of Friends of the Ouray Via Ferrata (FOVF), the nonprofit that oversees the via ferrata. “Remember to stay relaxed and extend your arms,” Disser reminds me and my partner, Eric Phillips, who is clipped into the cable behind me. The three of us move like ants in a line beyond the Cable Bridge to an imposing sheer face with parallel hand and foot rungs. Here, the metal trail goes so close to the current that if a pebble dropped, I’d feel a splash against my calves. I focus on my hand and foot placement: This can be one of the trickiest segments of the entire route, Disser mentioned at the entry gate. I sidestep across the steep wall until a gully appears. We step off the aspect and
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meander upward through a mix of stone and soil. Moments later, the towering facade that we crossed comes into full view behind us: Mars Wall, full of swirling shades of maroon, gold and daffodil. It reminds me of a Jackson Pollock painting. Below, the olive-hued water is transparent. Brilliant marmalade, crimson and honey rocks blanket the river bottom. This paradise quickly becomes one of my favorite vie ferrate, and for good reason. The Ouray Via Ferrata is the most unique route in the country. It’s the first to be free to the public and reach the safety standards of both ASTM International and the European Committee for Standardization. By the time climbers reach the finish gate, they’ve ascended and descended 450 feet over a distance of one mile. The one-way course starts on the south end of Uncompahgre Gorge. After an exciting kickstart on the Cable Bridge, climbers alternate between 4,000 feet of cables and 850 rungs as they explore the canyon. The path rollercoasters up-and-down, and snakes in-and-out of the mountainside’s organic formations. For a grand finale, climbers walk one-by-one up the first-ever via ferrata ascending ladder in North America, called Skyladder: a 75-foot long series of steps secured by four cables.
A handful of climbers wait in line to climb the Skyladder one-by-one. photo by Eric Phillips
“There are suspended, horizontal cable walkways in the U.S. but none that go up. There’s one in Austria. Engineers examined the terrain and approved this structure. We ordered the cables from Raumer Climbing, a manufacturer in Italy,” Disser says. Vie ferrate were first created to aid the movement of troops through the Dolomites during World War I. Remnants of those original byways still exist in present day Austria and Italy. Postwar, the passages became recreational and evolved into tourist attractions. Over the past 90 years, more vie ferrate have popped up across European countries, North America and Southeast Asia, as well as Peru, Oman and Japan, to name a few. Today, close to 2,000 routes hang in Western Europe, and Italy boasts 400. In contrast, less than 20 commercial vie ferrate have been established in the United States. “The National Forest Service and National Park Service do not allow via ferrata development on public land,” Disser says as we stand at the bottom of a perpendicular rung-ladder dubbed Stairway to Heaven, a zone that extends hundreds of feet above the loud stream below us. “There’s a much greater wilderness mindset here compared to Europe. And, there are not many vie ferrate in the U.S., so there are not that many installation companies.”
We each climb hand-over-hand and top out. At this high point the canyon expands. I catch a glimpse of snow-patched 12,800foot Abrams Mountain to the south, which makes me smile. I gaze around and try to identify the ravine’s subtle characteristics: I’ve climbed this iced over gorge in winter, but it looks like another planet. The opposing west wall hosts the Ouray Ice Park, which opened 23 years ago. Ice climbing here has grown in popularity and strengthened the town’s economy. So, several local guides, including Disser, were inspired to create a complimentary warm-season activity in the gorge. The idea was first proposed by Clint Cook, the former owner of SJMG, 12 years ago. In 2016, Disser put fire to the concept alongside Cook — who became the lead installer — and Mark Iuppenlatz, who joined SJMG as co-owner in 2017. They sought approval from the City of Ouray, which owns the land, and launched FOVF, fundraising $250,000 for the project. The developers included local engineers Matt Hepp and Chris Haaland, who has built several vie ferrate including one at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Once drilling began, the via ferrata took five months to complete. I’m 5-foot, 5-inches and none of the features feel too far apart for my reach. Like a ski resort run or rock climb, a via ferrata is
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River Gorge. However, Colorado hosts more than half of the country’s vie ferrate including circuits in the Royal Gorge, Estes Park, Manitou Springs, Idaho Springs, Buena Vista, Telluride, Colorado Springs — at the Broadmoor Hotel — and now Ouray. Next summer, Arapahoe Basin Ski Area will debut one. And Disser plans to co-develop a hub in this box canyon with a second route on Ouray’s northwest wall, as well as a third on the town's periphery by 2022. “This via ferrata was my way to create abundance for this community,” Disser says. We trek past the emergency bailout and climb to a lookout. We take a seat on the bench in the shaded nook, beneath a giant ponderosa. As I gulp water, Disser talks about the benefits this via ferrata brings to the community. “The City of Ouray recognizes the via ferrata as an environmentally-friendly, human-powered activity for visitors and locals,” Disser says. “The attraction diffuses high-volume traffic from other locations to a new, non-developed area. It’s a gateway for people to experience climbing who’ve never done any climbing before. Plus, it’s satisfying that a lot of local climbers enjoy the route, too. And, the via ferrata installation does not interrupt other Writer Morgan Tilton follows IFMGA Mountain Guide Nate Disser up the ice or rock climbing routes.” “Arrowhead” ascent on the Ouray Via Ferrata. photo by Eric Phillips For this inaugural season, he anticipates that 8,000 venturers will traverse the canyon from May to the end of October. rated for difficulty. This one is 4B, according to the Fletcher/ Eventually, 14,000 climbers are expected to trace the gorge Smith Italian Rating System: 1 to 5 indicates the technical challenge annually. In five years, the via ferrata is estimated to bring an (5 being the hardest). And an A, B, or C indicates the level of additional $5 million in annual revenue to the local economy commitment (C being the most serious). So, this via ferrata is a fair through new visitors and extended stays. challenge due to duration — it takes up to 3 hours — moments of “There will be annual inspections before being reopened, and we exposure, the elevation gain and loss and the overall commitment. expect a 50-year lifespan before replacing certain elements,” he says. There’s only one bailout trail once you start. So far, the route is After our water break, we scale the rock fluid, interesting and fun to follow. above us to reach the trail’s high point, called “The overall craftsmanship and flow through Vista Point, which sits at 8,366 feet. To the the canyon really sets this via ferrata apart,” northwest, Twin Peaks and Sister Peak stretch To complete the Ouray Via Disser says. “We wanted the route to feel into the sky. As we descend, I get my first view Ferrata, certified safety gear adventurous and natural.” of Skyladder. is required and inspected by The three of us crawl, climb and ramble Disser points to the steep rock that extends a FOVF member at the entry along the path back toward the canyon floor. well above the ladder. He explains that a new gate. FOVF plans to launch We reach the base of a wide slanted ramp section of rungs will be drilled there this year: the a Via Ferrata Festival with named Arrowhead. The long, protruding ledge Sky Climb, a 300-foot long advanced exit via the technical climbing clinics reminds me of a triangle’s leg. I lean forward top of the canyon with few artificial holds and in Fall 2020. Learn more at and pull on the rungs. The exposure here more natural rock holds. Climbers will need to ourayviaferrata.org. reminds me of an exciting via ferrata that I choose between the Skyladder or the Sky Climb. climbed at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort in Today, we drop into the gorge to climb British Columbia, Canada. the ladder. I wait for Disser to cross first and Indeed, the via ferrata industry has been look around. We’re exceptionally close to slow to evolve in the U.S., but the process recently became a bit the river. The powerful water resounds off the walls and rushes more streamlined. In 2011, the Ski Area Recreational Opportunity around gigantic boulders strewn with log debris. This experience Enhancement Act passed, which permits ski areas that operate is completely immersive and brings us close to an otherwise on U.S. Forest Service land to develop recreational activities unapproachable arm of Mother Nature. I walk across the bridge beyond skiing, such as vie ferrate. In turn, these installations and step off. have been fastened to rock walls at Squaw Valley Resort and Mammoth Mountain Ski Area in California, as well as Jackson MORGAN TILTON is an award-winning travel and adventure writer for close Hole Mountain Resort. to 60 publications. She lives in the Elk Mountains, where she scrambles and ropesBeyond ski resorts, adventurers can explore metal trails at up for rock ascents, ties into trail running shoes, clicks into skis or bike and clips Amangiri resort, on the Utah-Arizona border, Utah’s Waterfall into a snowboard or splitboard. Canyon, North Fork Valley, West Virginia and in Kentucky’s Red
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SPONSORED CONTENT
OPEN SKY WILDERNESS THERAPY
Open Sky assists teens and young adults struggling with difficult challenges and life circumstances. Open Sky engages the transformational power of nature to strengthen relationships, foster growth, cultivate awareness, and develop overall health and wellness. Nestled in the mountains of southwest Colorado and the canyon country of southeast Utah, Open Sky’s approach transcends traditional wilderness therapy by emphasizing treatment for the whole family.
We sat down with Open Sky Field Guide Recruiter, Alex Bond, to find out more about working at Open Sky as a Field Guide: What drew you to wilderness therapy? Before coming to Open Sky, I was a teacher. Although I enjoyed teaching, I was longing for more of the human connection side of the job. During my Field Guide training five years ago, it became clear to me that human connection was at the forefront of everything at Open Sky. I immediately knew this was where I belonged. I was also excited for the outdoors to become my classroom!
Why did you choose to come to Open Sky? The decision to come to Open Sky was easy. My family grew up in Colorado and so I was extremely drawn to the beauty of the Durango area. I had traveled quite a bit prior to Open Sky, but there was always something about the four corners landscape that drew me back. While I came here for the natural world, the reason I’ve stayed is the amazing community and culture at Open Sky. What qualities do you look for in an Field Guide? We look for people who can take care of themselves in the woods (grit), along with the characteristics of compassion, tenderness, and empathy. We look for guides who have a variety of skills and experiences, a passion for teaching and being positive role-models for our students.
Successful guides are able to persevere through adversity. What motivates you to go to work every day? That’s easy, the students. Our students are at an incredibly challenging place in their lives when they come to Open Sky. Many have never spent time in the wilderness and then suddenly, they’re living out there full-time. After a few weeks there’s a shift that occurs, in that they find a sense of courage in doing something they’ve never known before. It’s amazing to see. What does the application and training process look like for new Field Guides? The process begins with an hour-long interview. We have five pre-hire extended interviews throughout the year, each just under two weeks long, which provides a more hands-on, in-thefield window for the candidate and our team to decide if field guiding at Open Sky is a good fit. What can a Field Guide hope to come out of this experience with? One of the most rewarding things a Field Guide can expect is an incredible community that is honest and transparent with one another, offering coaching and mentorship each day. Not only does nature hold up a mirror reminding us of our strengths and challenges, our fellow Field Guides offer constructive and compassionate feedback. Having a job that allows you to figure out who you are and what you have to offer the world is such a gift.
READY FOR YOUR NEXT
adventure ? OPEN SKY WILDERNESS THERAPY IS HIRING FIELD GUIDES! INTERESTED? For more information, visit: www.openskywilderness.com/careers/ F A L L 2 0 2 0
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Off the Grid in Utah Adventure has a lot to teach us about preparing for the unknown and handling challenges STO RY BY B R E N DA B E R G R E E N
Rugged, winding and challenging paths are often the best ones. They are the teachers, the life changers and the character shapers. We simply have to trust our instincts, intuition and those ever-changing winds. After all, being prepared for anything is only helpful when anything can happen. Even the van wasn’t what I expected. As we bumped off along the road, the image of a relaxing road trip faded away into the orange sunset. My door never closed right, I usually had to slam it three times to get it to latch correctly. Buckling my seatbelt was another unnecessary nuisance. A typically easy task was made frustrating by the fact that I had to hold the receiver with my left hand while using my right to buckle it. If I let go, the receiver would fall to the floor out of my reach. I know, it’s a stupid thing to complain about, but it’s like a fly constantly buzzing around for attention. Of course, we never stop to think about what flies are teaching us. My husband, Marc, and I finally made the turn toward the Temple of Sun in Capitol Reef National Park, a remote 60 mile loop far from services and cell reception in Utah. We couldn’t wait. We had been dreaming of this trip for a long time. We had a vision of camping out under the stars and taking night photos while the kids slept soundly in the van. But I was already nervous. The van was making funny noises and my faith in it was limited. And we had already made a detour for an emergency tire repair when the tires wore down much quicker than expected. Our Utah road trip took us to both new and familiar places. We somehow found solitude in Moab, peace in Zion and endless roads in Escalante. Capitol Reef called our name and we obliged. We tried to keep our expectations for the trip low with two small children along for the ride. However, the Temple of the Sun was one destination that was high on our list.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY M A R C A N D B R E N DA B E R G R E E N
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'Are you sure we should be out here in the middle of nowhere? What if the van breaks down and we get stranded?' Surprisingly, Marc didn’t argue. The man whose summit fever makes it a struggle to turn him back from anything simply turned around without question. And he said I was right, of all things. Intuition can surprise you like that. Still, we debated if we made the right decision as we bumped back toward pavement. And then the van started smoking and the voltmeter flickered. Our alternator went out. Fifty miles later we found Wi-Fi, and 25 miles after that we coasted into the closest repair shop. They, of course, weren’t open. The van started one last time before officially dying in the driveway of the next repair shop. And that’s how we ended up in Goblin Valley instead of the Temple of the Sun.
Unfortunately, the detour and repair time cut too deeply into our itinerary to head all the way back to Capital Reef. Our disappointment was quickly replaced with the joy of planning a new adventure. There were suddenly new possibilities, opportunities and dreams. We weren’t where we planned, but that didn’t mean we weren’t going anywhere. With empty expectations, we found a new campsite in Goblin Valley, a place we had never explored. We hiked Little Wildhorse Canyon which is now on our list of favorite adventures. The kids were in heaven and the adults felt like kids again. We ran along the path with our fingertips caressing the walls of the canyons listening to the unsuppressed giggles of our kids. If I learned anything, it’s that embracing the unexpected is better than holding too tightly to expectations. Things don’t always go as planned and we don’t always get to do what we want. It feels very relevant, especially now, as I slowly erase plans from the giant calendar we have in our office. I’m doing my best to be mindful of the gain as well as the loss. Since I haven’t been training at the climbing gym, I’ve been climbing less and running more. I still don’t like running. But I have discovered new trails hidden in my own backyard. It’s a reminder that putting certain adventures and travels on hold can sometimes result in other unexpected adventures. Like the time I went ice-climbing after a dislocated elbow and learned how to use my feet. Or when an aimless hike in the woods led us to two little bear cubs climbing trees. One thing I do know is that the twists, the turns and the beat down from Mother Nature keeps me coming back for more.
BRENDA BERGREEN is a storyteller and photographer living in Evergreen, Colorado, with her family. When she’s not writing or taking photos, you might find her searching for new, unexpected adventures. 38 |
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just keep running. Shoes | Gear | Advice
Downtown durango
Roof top dining · Inquire about private parties Award-winning wine list · Delicious local cuisine
First Place Best Romantic Dinner Second Place Best Fine Dining Second Place Best Happy Hour Second Place Best Restaurant Second Place Best Steak
From ‘farm to table’ and ‘vine to wine’, Eolus Bar & Dining offers the finest menu selections from Southwest Colorado’s bounty of farms, ranches, vineyards, and breweries. Our historic dining room provides a comfortable, mountain elegant setting with tabletop and booth seating. Our covered rooftop patio presents premium views of the surrounding mountains for our guests, as well as private parties. Eolus Bar & Dining is a distinct Durango establishment where guests are invited to relax and enjoy locally-inspired cuisine, wine, and other craft beverages.
919 Main Ave, Durango CO | www.eolusdurango.com | (970) 259-2898 Open Monday - Friday 5pm–9pm | Reservations required
Thank you for nominating Eolus in 15 separate food and dining categories for 2020 Best of Durango! F A L L 2 0 2 0
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GEAR BIN
FRAME BAGS
S E AT B A G S
REVELATE DESIGNS Joey Downtube Bag
BEDROCK BAGS Black Dragon Dropper Seat Bag
69
$
Bikepacking
BEDROCK BAGS Custom Frame Bag
Bikepacking is a blend of biking and backpacking, offering riders a new way to explore remote areas and travel further distances over the course of several days. Bikepacking has grown in popularity in recent years, and so has the gear needed for these multiday, two-wheeled adventures. Looking to gear up for an overnight biking adventure? Here are a few key elements of a bikepacking setup and the products we recommend for a successful ride.
ORTLIEB Frame-Pack Toptube
photo by Cole Davis
from
170
$
150
$
H ANDLEBAR BAGS BEDROCK BAGS Moab Handlebar Bag
160
$
REVELATE DESIGNS Saltyroll
39
$
ORTLIEB Handlebar Pack
140
$
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175
$
BLACKBURN BAGS Outpost Elite Universal Seat Pack and Dry Bag
180
$
B AC K PAC K OSPREY PACKS Raptor 14 (Men’s) or Raven 14 (Women’s)
150
$
CAMELBAK Skyline LR10
135
$
OVEJA NEGRA Royale Hip-Pack
100
$
FUEL TAILWIND NUTRITION Stick Pack Bundles Assorted 8-Pack
20
$
PATAGONIA PROVISIONS 2-Day Camp Meal Kit For 2
89
$
TENT BIG AGNES Fly Creek HV UL2 Bikepack
380
$
ANTI-CHAFE CHAMOIS BUTT’R Original Anti Chafe
18
$
BODY GLIDE Cycle Glide
10
$
WAT E R P U R I F I C AT I O N MSR TrailShot Pocket-Sized Water Filter
50
$
SAWYER Squeeze Water Filter System
37
POWER GOAL ZERO Nomad 5 Solar Panel
60
$
ANKER PowerCore 26800
60
$
$
LIGHTING
LIFESTRAW Personal Water Filter
NITE RIDER Lumina Dual 1800
20
$
$
APPS
LIGHT & MOTION Vis Pro 1000 Trail
GAIA GPS MEMBER
20
$
AVENZA MAPS PLUS
30
$
160 135
$
BLACKBURN DESIGNS Countdown 1600 Front Light
170
$
ALPINEQUEST GPS HIKING
10
$
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N
SUDS
A simple flask does the job for transporting booze into the backcountry. photo by Tiona Eversole
SIPS
Backpacking with Booze Bring your favorite imbibement on your next wilderness excursion BY TIONA EVERSOLE
Weight is a backpacker’s worst enemy. So when we think about packing non-essential items, alcohol tends to fall into a gray area. How badly do we want that pint of whiskey to warm up with on a chilly evening? What about a celebration toast after successfully reaching a summit or other backpacking milestone? If the thought of leaving that flask at home doesn't sounds appealing, here’s how to properly and safely enjoy your favorite alcoholic beverage in the backcountry. BEST ALCOHOL FOR BACKPACKING We’ll just come out and say it: Whiskey is perfect for fireside nips, tastes fine warm or cold and is great as is or in a cocktail. Other spirits that are good for backpacking include tequila for most of the same reasons as whiskey (although we haven’t found a hot tequila drink we enjoy) and vodka for its versatility. Wine is another good option, with some companies now offering small boxes of wine that are perfect for backpacking trips. Otherwise, fill up a flask or stainless steel bottle with a nice red or white (or rosé) to compliment a backcountry dinner. Beer is a tough one due to its weight, but tastes so good after a long day. If you want to bring beer, consider only bringing one or two (or a tall can) for the first night. Toast to a good first day, and enjoy drinking ounces off your total pack weight for the next day.
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT CONTAINER Rule No. 1 of backpacking with booze: Do not bring glass. Broken glass is both dangerous and messy. If you would like to bring alcoholic beverages such as whiskey or wine that typically come in a glass bottle, transfer to a flask (hard or soft). For cocktails, pack a stainless steel cup — insulated if you’ll have hot beverages. This will make it easy to mix the ingredients in one place. To save on time, bring pre-mixed cocktails and simply pour into your cup and enjoy. Silicone wine tumblers are a good option for wine drinkers. This lightweight drinkware adds a nice touch to your backcountry wine-drinking experience without adding too much weight.
A long day of logging miles works up a thirst. photo by Tiona Eversole
Whiskey, vodka and tequila are three excellent options for backpacking. photo by Tiona Eversole
BACKCOUNTRY COCKTAILS Backcountry Hot Toddy • 1.5 ounces whiskey • 1 tea bag (non-caffeinated) • Hot water • Steep the tea bag in hot water for 5 minutes. Add whiskey and stir. Base Camp Cocktail • 1.5 ounces vodka • 1 single serving packet sport hydration drink mix • Cold water • Mix hydration mix and water until fully dissolved. Add vodka and stir. Sunset Margarita (pre-mixed) • 1.5 ounces tequila •.75 ounce orange liqueur • 1 ounce fresh lime juice • Ice • Add ingredients to a blender, and blend until smooth. Pour into a sealtight container and freeze before the trip. Let thaw the day you wish to enjoy for a perfect frozen margarita.
MAKE GOOD DECISIONS Having a drink in the backcountry is nice; having a hangover is not. It is also potentially hazardous to start the following day feeling foggy and unwell. Make sure that you are drinking enough water, as alcohol increases dehydration. If backpacking in a desert climate, mapping out water sources is crucial in order to stay properly hydrated. Avoid drinking while hiking. Staying alert and clear-minded is extremely important. Even the slightest ankle roll due to imbalance can have serious repercussions in the backcountry. Save the drinks for once camp is set up. Decide ahead of time which nights are best to have a drink instead of winging it. If big mileage or challenging obstacles are part of the next day’s itinerary, skip the booze. And finally, don’t keep alcohol in your tent, even if the container is empty. Store alcohol and containers with the food and trash in an animal proof container or bag outside and away from the tent. This will help keep wildlife from attempting to get in your tent.
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Fall colors start to light up the aspens below Mount Crested Butte. photo courtesy Terrance Siemon
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KILLER WEEKEND
Welcome to Colorful Crested Butte This Colorado mountain town holds your next fall adventure BY TIONA EVERSOLE
Crested Butte is world renowned for its summer wildflowers; but visiting in the fall is where the real magic happens. Cooler temperatures, crystal clear rivers and breathtaking mountain views are only a few of the reasons why you’ll want to add Crested Butte to your fall destination bucket list. Whether you’re looking to get out and explore the many trails in the area, wade into the cool waters in search of trout or relax and simply enjoy the fall colors, the town of Crested Butte shines brightest in the off season.
FOR THE FLY FISHER Crested Butte offers world-renowned fishing waters, making it an excellent getaway for those wishing to hook a few brook, brown, rainbow or cutthroat trout. Anglers should head to the Taylor River headwaters north of Taylor Reservoir where countless brook trout call these waters home. Numerous feeder creeks and beaver ponds found along the main stream of the Taylor River provide some of the best high country fly fishing waters in Colorado. The Crested Butte backcountry also offers endless opportunities for backcountry fly fishing. Stop by local fly fishing shops Crested Butte Angler or Dragonfly Anglers for suggestions, supplies or a guided tour.
FOR THE LEAF PEEPER For the best fall colors near Crested Butte, head 16 miles west to Kebler Pass. This high elevation mountain pass, topping out at 10,007 feet, winds WHERE TO STAY through the Gunnison National Forest For a fun and unique place to stay right and connects Crested Butte to Paonia. downtown, check out the Cristiana Guesthaus. Head up during peak season as the This quirky, yet cozy European-style chalet state’s largest aspen grove is set ablaze offers a second story balcony perfect for with shades of gold, crimson and orange enjoying a glass of wine at sunset. with rewarding views of the West Elk The Nordic Inn is located at the base Mountains. Plan for about two hours of Riding the Lupine Trail with the town of Crested Butte of Crested Butte Mountain Resort, and is in the background. photo by Terrance Siemon driving from one side of the pass to the the longest operating lodge in Gunnison County. Recently remodeled, the Inn offers other. Unless inclement weather is present, this comfortable and luxurious accommodations with secure bike two-wheel drive dirt road is accessible by most vehicles. storage and bike cleaning station. Grab s’mores supplies and enjoy hanging out at the fire pit after a day of adventuring. FOR THE MOUNTAIN BIKER Both of these options offer pet friendly rooms and For a fun, intermediate ride that starts and ends close to complimentary breakfast. downtown Crested Butte, check out the Lupine trail system. The two sections of the Lupine Trail (named Lupine 1 and Lupine 2) WHERE TO EAT & DRINK were built in 2011, making them relatively new to the area. For For a nice sit-down breakfast spot, start the day at Paradise Cafe. bikers wanting to add some mileage and ride back into town, For a quick grab and go breakfast burrito, check out Rumors Coffee continue on Slate River Road from the end of Lupine 2 to Gunsight & Tea House, an espresso bar that doubles as a bookstore. Bridge. From here, the singletrack trails of the Lower Loop trail After a long day of exploring Crested Butte, get your pizza fix at system can be taken back into downtown Crested Butte, totalling a Secret Stash. You can’t go wrong with so many fun specialty pies little over 11 miles. to choose from, such as the Texas Biggin’, Notorious F.I.G. and The Crested Butte’s most famous mountain bike trail — the 401 Killa Vegan. If tacos are more your thing, check out Teocalli Tamale Trail — is located north of town up Gothic Road, and offers a fun for fast, simple tacos, burritos and tamales. yet challenging ride with plenty of elevation gain, fast downhill After dinner, head to Montanya Distillers for a craft cocktail. and spectacular mountain views. The 401 is commonly ridden as a The distillery specializes in American rum, and offers a cocktail 13.6-mile loop, but can also be ridden as an 8.3-mile shuttle to cut for every palette — including “zero proof” mixed drinks for those out the dirt road climb. Although this trail is most popular in the who prefer non-alcoholic beverages. Try the Caldera: Platino Rum summer, fall brings cooler temperatures and fewer crowds for an infused with cucumber and mixed with honey lavender syrup, lime, enjoyable ride. mint and jalapeño.
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HIDDEN GEMS
Fly Fishing in the Fall Popular places to catch fish in the Four Corners STORY BY JENNY JOHNSTON
A day spent fishing is a day well spent — and fall may offer the best days of the year. Once the hustle and bustle of summer has faded away, the wilderness somehow becomes a bit wilder. Big bugs and even bigger trout wait in every back eddy and at the seam of every run. Fall is indeed the ultimate moment of splendor. It is quite simply full of good days to go chase trout. For fly fishermen in the Four Corners, the opportunities to experience fall fishing are countless. There is enough water for anglers to fish every day and not step foot in the same spot twice. Whether you choose to fish the high country streams, alpine lakes or the rivers of deep canyons, you are sure to have a day well spent. COLORADO Colorado boasts 322 miles of Gold Medal waters, including 11 different rivers and three lakes. This fabled water is popular in the summer, and trout can sometimes become wary of all of the anglers hot on their heels, or fins. But come fall, the waters open up and trout go back to their predictable honey holes, offering plenty of casting and elbow room. If you want to fish the 4-mile stretch of Gold Medal waters on the Animas River near Durango, head to the confluence with Lightner Creek and fish upstream to the river crossing bridge. Look for big brown and rainbow trout.
Catch fish and colors at the same time, as the leaves change along the banks of the Animas River in Durango, Colorado. photo by Terrance Siemon
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It is commonplace to land trout in the 18-plus inch range right through town. For more of the picturesque fishing experience, head north of Durango to the high country. Hermosa Creek, located behind Purgatory Resort, entices anglers with meandering tight water in a wide-open meadow. This unique 23-mile stretch of water is the largest pure Colorado River cutthroat habitat in the state. The Colorado River cutthroat trout is the only native trout to the Hermosa Creek drainage and to the Colorado River Basin. Thanks to a collaborative effort of Colorado Parks and Wildlife, the U.S. Forest Service and Trout Unlimited, Colorado River cutthroat are making a comeback. It is important to note that this water is designated as strictly catch and release fly fishing only. Further north, Lime Creek offers some equally spectacular pocket water. Look for beaver ponds dotting the landscape along the way. This is the place to find smaller but feisty rainbows and brookies on the end of your line. ARIZONA Arizona’s state fish and one of only two trout native to the State, the Apache trout is as beautiful as it is sought after. Thanks to collaborative restoration efforts of the U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Game and Fish and the White Mountain Apache Tribe, the trout that was once on the brink of extinction is now thriving in its native habitat. Anglers now have the opportunity to find one of these beauties that were once at the end of their line, now on the end of their fly line. For a prime shot at one of these fish, head to the White Mountains and fish the East Fork of the Black River. This 8-mile section can be accessed from Springerville on Highway 191. Look for Hannagan Meadow for easy access. The East Fork can also be accessed as it crosses Forest Road 249. Another area nestled between Sedona and Flagstaff will place anglers in one of northern Arizona’s hidden treasures: Oak Creek Canyon. Reminiscent of its vastly larger, more popular sibling, the Grand Canyon, Oak Creek is a beautiful river gorge located along the Mogollon Rim. Red Rocks and green water filled with Brown and rainbow trout welcome anglers of all skill levels. Don’t be surprised to find river otters, bald eagles and great blue herons all competing for your catch, but at least there are plenty of fish to go around.
The Four Corners area is rich with fly fishing locations ranging from wide rivers and open lakes to backcountry creeks and streams. photo by Terrance Siemon
UTAH Just outside of the small town of Loa in south central Utah, Fish Lake is not to be missed. At 5-miles long by 1-mile wide and over 100 feet deep, this is a body of water best fished from a boat. With lake trout exceeding 30 pounds (yes, you heard right), this is the place to be in the fall for truly monster trout. This lake offers anglers a chance at not only huge fish, but also a chance to catch some rarely caught fish. Add tiger trout (a brown trout and brook trout hybrid) and splake to your must catch list if you head here. Be prepared. These bad boys aren’t coming in without a fight. Heavier tippets and leaders, bigger flies and a heavier rod are all necessary here. Streamers and dries fished along the banks or in the shallows can also bring some explosive strikes from some super monster fish. Make time for a side excursion to Seven Mile Creek, where you can expect to find large brookies and even larger tiger trout in the 20-plus inch range. Tiger trout are as ferocious as their name suggests and a feather in the hat for most anglers to boast about landing. Beaver ponds in the area are home to some big brook trout and should be explored as well. NEW MEXICO Fishermen will find the infamous waters of the San Juan River near Farmington in northwest New Mexico both rewarding and fun. Vastly different from its upper freestone origins, this tail water is the epitome of a fishy, green, slow moving paradise. The waters of the “Juan” are hugely popular for its huge fish. This is a place for camaraderie with fellow anglers who will cheer you on as you reel one of its famed trout into your net. If you are not an experienced angler, this technical water is good to fish with a guide. The fish may be huge but the flies and leaders needed are tiny. To fish here and land one of these beauties is a dance of sorts between the balance of your wrist and the will of the trout. The five miles below Navajo Dam are the most fishable with the first three being the primo fish real estate. Dress for success applies to fishing too, and stealth is the name of the game. These fish have seen it all and will shy away at the slightest. Dress to match your surroundings and be stealthy. A well-presented fly should result in a fish on the end of your line. Fall is a wonderful time to fish the San Juan. The crowds will thin a bit but the big fish will remain.
JENNY JOHNSTON is an avid fly fisherman and has spent her life chasing trout in the Four Corners. Look for her on a stream near you.
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H OW TO
So You Want to Be a Trip Leader? Tips for the first-time trip leader or those looking to improve their procedures before their next big river trip BY TIONA EVERSOLE
If you’ve been on a multiday river trip, chances are that you had a trip leader. The trip leader can make or break the overall boating experience depending on their commitment to the trip and their planning skills. If you’re thinking about rounding up a crew for a late season river trip this fall, here is what you need to know to carry out a successful adventure from start to finish. WHAT IS A TRIP LEADER? A trip leader (or TL) is responsible for overseeing the river trip from start to finish. A strong trip leader is proactive, good at organization and has strong communication skills. While most trip leaders are experienced boaters, this is not entirely necessary. However, selecting a river section with rapid levels that you’re comfortable with is helpful. OBTAINING A RIVER PERMIT First things first: Research which river sections require a permit. In recent years, it has become progressively more difficult to attain a permit through the river permit lottery process. While the lottery occurs at the beginning of the year for the entire boating season, it’s still possible to acquire a permit later in the year through cancellations. For those looking to plan a fall trip, look to obtain permits for river sections that are much easier, such as Ruby Horsethief Canyon on the Colorado River and Labyrinth Canyon on the Green River. These are both mellow stretches of water, making them excellent sections for your first time as a trip leader. If you’re lucky enough to acquire a cancellation permit, you might be able to float highly sought after river sections on the San Juan, Green and Colorado Rivers. The best way to look for these openings is to check www.recreation.gov for availability. Enjoying the sun’s warmth on a cool October morning on the Green River in Labyrinth Canyon. photo by Tiona Eversole
TRIP PLANNING The trip leader is responsible for the primary tasks of each trip such as selecting group members, choosing campsites, figuring out shuttle and planning meals. The trip leader must also ensure that all requirements (which vary for each river section) are met for the trip — this may include but is not limited to: bringing a boat patch kit and first aid kit, carrying a spare PFD on each boat, packing a fire pan and having a groover (portable toilet for those who don’t know).
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NOT THE TRIP LEADER? YOU SHOULD STILL HELP OUT! It is important to note that river trips are a group effort. The trip leader is making a huge effort to guarantee a successful trip, which comes with a lot of responsibility. Show your appreciation for their hard work by offering to help with one of these tasks: • Maintain the spreadsheet • Collect cash from trip members • Organize the shuttle • If renting, pick up gear • Read the map if the trip leader is rowing
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PRIOR TO LAUNCH Once trip dates are selected and a permit has been obtained, the next step is selecting who will come on the trip. Most permits have a limit, so make sure you don’t go over. Having fewer people than what is on your permit is fine. When selecting members, take into consideration if they know others on the trip and are compatible, their previous boating experience and if they are able to contribute any group gear. If this is your first time as trip leader, you might want at least a few seasoned boaters to help you should any issues arise. Next, you will want a way to stay organized and keep track of all of your planning. The best way to do this is through a shareable spreadsheet (Google Sheets works well). Create separate tabs that will include a trip itinerary, trip member’s personal and contact information, meals, gear and group costs. You might also want to consider collecting cash ahead of the trip to reduce any stress of group members having to bring cash to the put-in. Once all of the details have been ironed out on the spreadsheet, start communicating with other members and help assign certain tasks and responsibilities. Initiate carpooling, which is helpful in cutting costs and the number of vehicles being used — especially for trip members traveling from the same town. Figure out who has trucks or trailers, and who can haul what gear. And make sure all necessary gear and equipment is accounted for. The last thing you want is to show up to the put-in and not be able to get on the water because a required item is missing.
DURING THE TRIP Once the boats are loaded and the group has pushed off, the trip leader’s next steps are to keep the group relatively close together while on the water, watch the river mileage and get the group to camp. Not all river sections will have reserved campsites per group, so it’s important to have a backup option in the event that another group is at your first choice. At camp, the trip leader should make sure that the members are helping out and taking care of their assigned camp responsibilities. Typically there is a cook crew, cleanup crew and groover crew; but feel free to assign responsibilities as you see fit. For longer trips, it’s also nice to let a group have a night off from cooking, cleaning or groover duty to enjoy the sunset and camp festivities. POST TRIP Once the trip has come to an end, the trip leader should manage the breaking down of boats and loading of gear into vehicles. Depending on the size of the takeout, it’s common courtesy to try and take up as little space as possible for other trips taking out at the same time. A final beach sweep should always round out the river trip, ensuring that no gear is left at the takeout. While the role of trip leader requires a lot of time and preparation, the sense of accomplishment from a successful river trip is well worth the effort. Your group will thank you for your hard work and a river trip full of memories.
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WILD VOICES
The Changing World of the Mountain Guide Jason Antin’s passion for the outdoors resonates with guests, and is a breath of fresh air in the time COVID S T O R Y B Y B R E N DA B E R G R E E N PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARC & B R E N DA B E R G R E E N
I met up with Jason Antin a little later than planned because he was up all night on a mountain rescue. A “lost hikers” call turned into something much more serious, and it took his team all night to get two friends off the mountain. Search and Rescue is just one of the many hats that Antin wears in the outdoor industry. A passion for the outdoors was instilled in him at a young age and solidified later as he discovered what outdoor adventures have to offer. Not only is he able to stretch what his body and mind are truly capable of, he has enjoyed immersing himself in the vibrant Colorado outdoor community. A collegiate football player, Antin was familiar with devoting up to 60 hours a week on training, performing and spending time with a tight knit team focused on a specific common goal. Antin now finds that same camaraderie on his Search and Rescue team, with his fellow mountain guides and his own adventure partners. Antin said one of his most memorable guiding experiences was early in his career when he had the opportunity to guide a large group to the base camp of Mount Everest. He loved the challenge — not only of getting them there, but of making a team out of a diverse group of people from all over the world. The group formed lifelong bonds through shared experiences that still unite them today. “It’s all about helping those people connect as partners,” Antin said. It seems that the community is more than just a bonus for Antin, it’s a big part of the reason that he does it all. And Antin truly does it all as a guide, rescue team member, athlete, coach and producer of inspirational adventure content such as Beat Monday.
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He seems to be on a mission to give people both the skills and stoke needed to have fun in the outdoors. Antin said his priority as a guide is for guests to “walk away feeling empowered and like they learned something new.” Antin guides throughout the Colorado Rockies and beyond for Colorado Mountain School and Skyward Mountaineering. On his own business website, Alpenglow Mountain Guides, there’s a new orange announcement along the top of his pages that reads: “We are open for business with strategic COVID-19 precautions in place.” Guiding looks a little different in the times of a global pandemic. The days of traveling to far off destinations for adventure are gone, or at least on hold. “Guiding is a face to face, close-contact pursuit where you’re trying to share the mountains with folks,” Antin said. “Opportunities or outings like camping or technical rock climbing involve being in close quarters.” Guiding was completely shut down for a few months beginning in mid-March, but the team was hard at work at something they do best, risk management. Like all industries, they were figuring out how to pivot and put the necessary safety precautions in place. They planned for challenges in the vertical world such as figuring out how to keep social distance on multi-pitch climbs and coming up with screening protocols to make it safer for everyone to enjoy the outdoors. When Antin got back in the field, he found that the greatest challenge was not the technical plans, but how wearing masks affected his soft skills and his teaching style. Even a stoic mountain gude relies on facial expressions and inflections. Beyond the challenges the pandemic has placed on guiding, imagine hauling a 70-liter pack with an injured hiker up a mountain while wearing a mask and trying to communicate with your team. 54 |
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Antin is a trained optimist who credits his positive mindset for his success to endurance sports. He asserts that those of us that are outside playing are there by choice, so why not run by the aid station of the 100 mile race with a smile on? If anyone can find the bright side to this situation, it’s him. Fortunately, it sounds like there are a lot of bright sides. Guests are enthusiastic about getting out on guided trips. He’s experienced very little resistance to their redundant surveys, personal protective equipment requirements and other precautions. Everyone is pretty excited to get out and enjoy the days. Additionally, being outside is one of the safest places you can be in the age of a pandemic. It’s safer to meet a friend for a hike than at the coffee shop. Tired of Zoom office meetings? The Colorado Mountain School is launching a program to help companies reclaim some of the benefits of teamwork. They’re using their skills in risk management and guiding to help companies escape isolation and unleash creativity. “I think it’s important as guides to provide people an outlet right now during these very isolating times to get out safely and experience the outdoors in one of the best environments you can possibly be in right now,” Antin said. Antin has never liked to separate work from play — his office is his playground. Many people go outdoors to escape the stresses of their professional life. Some, like Antin, are lucky enough to have their passions and work be one in the same. As he puts it, “This is my office, this is my playground. I’ve never had a problem working so much in the mountains that I no longer enjoyed it on a personal level.”
BRENDA BERGREEN is a storyteller and photographer living with her family in Evergreen, Colorado. When she’s not writing or taking photos, you might find her looking for more ways to take work outside and into nature.
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V I S TA S
Change isn’t always easy, but it sure is beautiful. If the transition between fall and winter teaches us one thing, it is that we are capable of embracing the memories of the past while accepting what is to come. Change creeps up slowly, like the first dusting of snow on the Needles of the San Juan Mountains. Fear of the unknown peeks out from among bare branches. And just as aspen leaves flutter in the breeze, dancing all the way down to the ground from the trees they once held onto so tightly, we must remember that letting go is necessary to move forward. So as you move through fall, wandering through blazing aspens and letting the autumnal winds move through your hair, remember to savor every second. Soon, winter will be here. photo by Terrance Siemon
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