Dorado Magazine - March/April 2016

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DORADO Field Day T H E U LT I M AT E O U T D O O R G E A R

F R A N K L LOY D W R I G H T ’ S D E S E R T V I S I O N

REFINED LIVING, BIG ADVENTURES

FARM FEAST

SUNSET & VINE

MARATHON RUN

A gourmet experience pops up in rural Colorado

Get a taste of Arizona’s burgeoning wine mecca

The charming Texas town worth a road trip

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Give the GIFT of BIG ADVENTURES.

INTRODUCTORY OFFER

$17.99 50% OFF THE COVER PRICE 6 ISSUES PER YEAR WWW.DORADOMAGAZINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

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TABLE of CONTEN TS 50

56

FEATURES

40

56

Nightfall Starry skies. Vast, moonlit landscapes.

Nocturnal wildlife on the hunt. The Southwest boasts a different kind of nightlife — and there are infinite, thrilling ways to experience its magic.

Desert Vision Frank Lloyd Wright found inspiration in the Sonoran Desert, and his once-humble winter camp has evolved into a beacon for progressive Southwestern design.

by Steven Beschloss

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Field Day A traveling, pop-up feast, Outstanding in the Field joins food purveyors with the communities they sustain. Pull up a a chair and revel in this alfresco experience.

by Jen Murphy

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Game On Our favorite athletes to watch at this year’s GoPro Mountain Games, and the gear they can’t live without. photography by Matt Nager

L-R: THINKSTOCK; JENNIFER OLSON (TOP); SCOTTSDALE CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU. COVER: IMAGESOURCE /ISTOCK.

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32

26

71

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DEPARTMENTS OUTDOORS

26 In Deep

ON THE ROAD

36 Marathon Run

Struck by the spirit of adventure, we plunge into Utah’s wet and wild White Canyon.

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM

For Texas road-trippers heading to Big Bend, tiny Marathon has long been a favorite pit stop.

IN TOWN

32 Vintage Arizona

AT HOME

71 Back to Nature

Cottonwood’s Main Street has become an essential outpost for the Grand Canyon State’s wine industry.

This Colorado retreat reflects a Texas clan’s passion for the outdoors.

Plus: Rustic modern.

PA N O R A M A A SNA P SHOT OF T HE SOU T HWEST ’ S EV ENTS, C U LT U R E & P E O P L E TRAVEL

15 Get out of town, in

your style, at one of these Southwestern destinations.

GEAR

18 Transform your

patio with these goodies that celebrate Mother Nature’s beauty.

BOOKS

80 M Y

20 Find inspiration in DORADO

A California traveler meets family history in a town named for his great-great-aunt Sedona.

the pages of these five authors who bring an original perspective to our corner of the world.

10 Letter from the Editor • 12 Masthead • 13 Contributors

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ART

22 Bold and contemporary, Cannupa Hanska Luger’s mixed-media artwork offers a fresh take on native themes.

SHOP

24 Baggage claim! These

timeless leather bags are right at home in the rugged Southwest.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NICK SIMONITE; W YNN MYERS, ST YLING BY SAR A OSWALT; CAMERON MARTINDELL; EMILY MINTON REDFIELD; JENNIFER BOOMER; DAWN KISH.

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photo: toddpowell.com

Mountain Magic > Few things are more magical than a mountain town.

With a charming Main Street.

Sandwiched between 6 world-class ski resorts.

Copper | Breckenridge | Keystone | Arapahoe Basin | Loveland | Vail And with its own tubing hill.

45k of cross country and snowshoe trails.

Dinner and hot cocoa sleigh rides.

Beginner ski and ride hill.

Check us out. TownofFrisco.com

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L ET T ER FROM THE E DITOR

Texas Calling We launched Dorado a year ago with a simple but grand ambition: to celebrate the essence of the Southwest.

We knew it was rather audacious to think we could capture all that embodies a region that includes the Grand Canyon, the Rocky Mountains and the Sonoran Desert — as well as a culturally diverse population and an ancient history — but we think we’ve succeeded in showcasing that the American Southwest is one of the most extraordinary parts of the world.

Now, as we embark on our second year, we’re branching out of the Four Corners states and going even bigger, with expanded coverage of a state that epitomizes so much of the Southwest’s diverse spirit: Texas. Big, bold, boundless — the Lone Star State is a natural addition, and in this issue, we explore the small town of Marathon (page 36), a locale that’s earning a reputation as an off-theradar gem for road-trippers on their way to Marfa and Big Bend National Park.

Speaking of Marfa, the contemporary art haven is one of the destinations we highlight in Nightfall (page 40), our look at the Southwest when the sun sets and a whole other world emerges. Check out some of our favorite nighttime adventures: evening rafting, nocturnal-animal hunting, drive-in movie theaters and stargazing at the ancient Native American site of Chaco Canyon.

We never fail to be inspired by our home, and in this issue, we profile two men whose work is also influenced by the Southwest. In the 1920s, Frank Lloyd Wright first came to Arizona and began a decades-long affair with the state that transformed modern architecture (page 56). Nearly a century later, Jim Denevan is traveling the country putting on dinners at different farms, creating a communal experience that draws from local growers and chefs. Denevan’s events were too tempting for us to resist, and we think you’ll agree (page 50).

There’s so much more in this issue, and we look forward to sharing even more must-reads with you in the years ahead.

BLAZING SADDLES An iconic figure, the Texas rancher has helped shape the mystique of the Southwest.

Jeff Ficker

GETT Y IMAGES

e d itor in ch ie f Dorado magazine

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E D I TO R I A L

Editor in Chief

Jeff Ficker Creative Director

Caroline Jackson Crafton Design Director

Marc Oxborrow Associate Editor/Digital Editor

Ellen Ranta Olson Online Design

Chuck Rose, Aaron Heirtzler editorial inquiries: editor@doradomagazine.com PRODUCTION

Creative Shared Services Director

Christy Pollard Senior Design Manager

Todd Bartz Production/Pagination

Suzanne Duke Vice President of Enterprise Marketing

Kricket Lewis Subscription Services

Aani Parrish production inquiries: customerservice@doradomagazine.com ADVERTISING

Publisher

Chad Rose chadr@bcimedia.com Account Executives

Theresa Monaco

Lauren Reidy-Phelan

tmonaco@bcimedia.com

laurenrp@bcimedia.com

Marketing Coordinator

Brittany Cupp Chief Executive Officer

Douglas Bennett Vice President of Finance and Operations

Bob Ganley To subscribe to Dorado magazine, visit doradomagazine.com.

Dorado magazine is published by Ballantine Communications.

Creative services provided by Casual Astronaut (casualastronaut.com). Dorado magazine will not assume any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. © 2016 Ballantine Communications, Inc. All rights reserved.

This publication may not be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means without prior written permission.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Jaime Gillin (Back to Nature, page 74) writes about travel, culture, and design around the world for publications including Travel + Leisure, The New York Times and Dwell, where she was previously deputy editor. She is currently editorial director of GRAY, a magazine about design in the Pacific Northwest.

FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST Taos, New Mexico “When I was in college, I spent a summer living just outside Taos, writing for the local paper and teaching myself how to quilt. I rented a little cottage abutting a field, and my neighbor’s horses would poke their heads through my windows. The landscape in that region took my breath away.”

Steven Beschloss (Desert Vision, page 56) is a writer, journalist and filmmaker. His articles and essays have been published by The New Yorker, The New York Times, The New Republic, Smithsonian, The Chicago Tribune, The San Francisco Chronicle, National Geographic Traveler and dozens of other media outlets. He’s been nominated for a Pulitzer Prize and honored with a magazine writing award by the American Society of Journalists and Authors.

Photographer Matt Nager (Game On, page 62) is based in his native state of Colorado. Nager’s photos have appeared in The New York Times Magazine, Fast Company, Men’s Journal, Smithsonian and Time. His work, which centers around the relationship between people and the land they live on, has been recognized by American Photography 30, the Magenta Foundation and the Puffin Foundation.

Experience outdoor recreation with spectacular views

FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST San Luis Valley and the Sangre de Cristo Range “There is a mysterious sense of history and nostalgia that fills the valley and embodies the wide, open and spiritual nature of the Southwest.”

West Texas photographer Jennifer Boomer (Marathon Run, page 36) is an avid traveler and a loving mama, who instinctively links her own biography with her subjects — whether shooting editorial jobs for Texas Monthly, The New York Times and Monocle or for her corporate clients, like Airbnb and HGTV’s hit reality show Fixer Upper. Boomer’s images celebrate the relationship between people and their environments.

FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST

FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST

Sedona, Arizona

Earl’s Restaurant in Gallup, New Mexico

“Whenever I arrive in Sedona and gaze at the red rock formations, I’m always touched by their calming, otherworldly beauty.”

“They serve the best huevos rancheros I’ve ever tasted.”

Greenlee County, AZ www.growinggreenlee.org MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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PANORAMA A S N A P S H O T O F T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S E V E N T S , C U LT U R E & P E O P L E

T R AV E L

Weekend Getaways, 3 Ways

Get out of town, in your style, at one of these Southwestern destinations

NICK SIMONITE

B Y K AT I E S E L F

PLUS:

18 | Gear

20 | Books

22 | Art

24 | Shop

Poolside at Hotel Saint Cecilia in Austin’s South Congress neighborhood.

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PANORAMA

C I TY

Urban Oasis: Hotel Saint Cecilia austin, texas

Desert Retreat: Canyon Ranch tucson, arizona

Escape to the Sonoran Desert for some serious R&R. Known for its bespoke wellness programs, Canyon Ranch is the perfect place to recharge. Sunny weather paired with clear desert air and easy access to the great outdoors make for a classic spa setting, while seemingly endless amenities help guests feel right at home. For the Type A’s, a weekly schedule offers a variety of choices for keeping busy, from yoga and golf to cooking classes and astrology seminars.

Or simply fill your day with massages and poolside lounging — you’re here to relax, after all.

Head to the Saint Cecilia lounge and order the Two Saints cocktail, made with Plymouth dry gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur and fresh orange. It’s heavenly.

HIGHLIGHT:

OUTD OOR S

Hey, Dude: 4UR Ranch creede, colorado

Channel your inner cowboy with a trip to 4UR Ranch, an all-inclusive guest ranch near the tiny town of Creede, Colorado. The well-appointed lodge keeps you cozy and a menu of activities keeps you busy — take to the Rio Grande for some white water, join along on a guided hike through the La Garita Mountains or saddle up and hit the trails with the expert wranglers on staff.

End your day with “fine dude ranch dining” — think grilled rack of Colorado lamb paired with goat cheese polenta, wilted greens and lemon-rosemary jus.

After a long day in the saddle, head to the on-site hot spring.

Legend has it that at the dawn of the 20th century, people were known to ride the rails to this remote natural spring for its healing benefits.

HIGHLIGHT:

Tap into the desert’s healing vibes and schedule a session with the medical and nutrition experts on staff.

HIGHLIGHT:

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L-R: COURTESY CANYON R ANCH, NICK SIMONITE, COURTESY 4UR R ANCH

S PA

Tucked away in Austin’s South Congress neighborhood, the quaint Hotel Saint Cecilia lies among plush trees and protective foliage. The lush property is home to five private suites and three studios, as well as six poolside bungalows, all of which transport travelers to a time of vintage luxury. Once you’re settled in, take a short walk to South Congress and pick through the trove of quirky shops; stop by Allens for a pair of cowboy boots and break them in with some twostepping at the nearby Broken Spoke.

The freshest seafood can be found at Perla’s Seafood & Oyster Bar; but if a sit-down meal takes away precious shopping time, grab a bite on the go from one of the many food trucks lining the street or a get a burger from Hopdoddy.

or an unforgettable summer adventure, escape to Pagosa Springs in Southwest Colorado. You will never forget the rush of rafting or tubing the San Juan River. The feeling of the alpine sun as you explore over three million acres of wilderness and national forest. And the bliss of a rejuvenating soak in one of our famous hot springs.

Refresh your spirit in a place away from the crowds.

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Discover Colorado’s Secret at VisitPagosaSprings.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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PANORAMA Loll Designs’ outdoor planters come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors, lending a touch of modern design to any garden.

GEAR

Garden of Delights Spring has sprung! Transform your backyard or patio with these goodies that celebrate the beauty of Mother Nature

BY DINA MISHEV

Hang On

Want a garden but don’t have space? Meet Wally, a pocket you can plant with herbs, succulents or tropicals, and hang inside or out. $40, woollypocket.com

H E LP ING H A N D

StoneBreaker’s goatskin Fit to Work gloves live up to their name from the first time you slip them on, softly supple while protecting your hands. $27.99, stone-breaker.com

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Seed Money

Native Seeds maintains 19 seed “libraries” throughout Arizona.

Borrow, for a small fee, GMO-free seeds of nearly 2,000 different plants native to the Southwest.

After you harvest your crop, send some seeds back. No late fees.

From $2.95, nativeseeds.org

Perfect Planters

Loll Designs makes modern, stylish planters from recycled plastic, mostly milk jugs, that are as durable and weather-resistant as they are colorful. From $138, lolldesigns.com

Natural Beauty

BloemFrance imports linen from Lithuania to hand-make pillowcases, bread bags, dresses, ponchos and the most perfect gardening apron — stylish, functional and slip-on, no ties to fiddle with. $55, etsy.com/shop/bloemfrance

U NDE R TH E S U N

Go ahead and fold and flatten this sun hat. Made of straw, its extra-wide brim bounces back, and its ventilated body keeps you cool. $34.99, charlie1horsehats.com Stay Sharp

After your parsley, cilantro, basil and rosemary come up, slice them directly into soups and salads with Wusthof ’s 10-blade herb scissors, which have a sharpener built into their sheath. $35, surlatable.com

Bee Happy

Invite Mason bees, which don’t sting and can pollinate up to 1,000 blooms a day — to your garden by hanging this bamboo bee house from a sunny branch. $20, gardeners.com

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PANORAMA

Sense and Southwestern Sensibility Find inspiration in the pages of these five authors who bring an original perspective to our corner of the world

BY CELESTE SEPESSY

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f you’re looking for a new nighttime read that won’t put you to sleep, the Tucson Festival of Books has you covered.

Each year, more than 130,000 readers flock to the March event to discover their next cherished writer (or meet their all-time favorites).

These five writers are among the emerging voices redefining Southwestern literature.

Above: Environmentalist and author Edward Abbey, the subject of Sean Prentiss’ National Outdoor Book Award winner, Finding Abbey.

TOP: MARK KLETT

BOOKS

CY NTH IA B ON D

Literary Fiction Head to Texas in the 1950s for Bond’s debut novel, Ruby, which tackles small-town love and racial complexity in the South. It’s unsurprising this blinding first book has earned Bond comparisons to Toni Morrison and Gabriel García Márquez.

Must Read: Ruby, an Oprah Book Club 2.0 selection

SEAN P R EN T ISS

Outdoorsy Exploration Two decades after environmentalist Edward Abbey died, Prentiss hiked across the United States in search of his “hidden desert grave” in the Southwestern expanse.

The result is a comprehensive account of one man’s life, and another’s quest to find it.

Must Read: Finding Abbey; The Search for Edward Abbey and His Hidden Desert Grave, 2015 National Outdoor Book Awards winner

L INDA H IR SH M AN

Transformative History In her most recent take on women’s road to equality, lawyer and retired Brandeis professor Hirshman profiles the two most influential women to judge the law: Arizona legend Sandra Day O’Connor and Ruth Bader Ginsburg. The dual biography presents two entirely different women who make you root for the same team.

Don’t Miss: Sisters in Law: How Sandra Day O’Connor and Ruth Bader Ginsburg Went to the Supreme Court and Changed the World, a New York Times best-seller

MARKETPLACE

MO N I C A BROWN

Children’s Magical Realism Brown’s books are a Southwest staple in the class and at bedtime. The Northern Arizona University English professor’s duallanguage stories weave tales of Latino figures (Pablo Neruda and Cesar Chavez) and those of her own ingenuity, like the subject of her newest chapter book, Lola Levine Is Not Mean!

Must Read: Maya’s Blanket, a story with Yiddish folk song roots, illustrated by Caldecottwinner David Diaz

PAO LO BAC I G A LU P I

Ecological Dystopian The Colorado native’s latest book, The Water Knife, explores a near-future Phoenix where the quest for precious water is dangerous.

The scariest part? The climate-driven plot doesn’t seem that far off from reality.

Must Read: The Windup Girl, Bacigalupi’s debut and one of Time’s Top 10 Fiction Books of 2009

TUCSON FESTIVAL OF BOOKS

Meet these authors and 400 more March 12-13 at the University of Arizona campus. To learn more, visit doradomagazine.com/books.

VISIT ONLINE Shop for the products, places and experiences featured in our magazine. Products chosen by our staff and select advertisers.

WWW.DORADOMAGAZINE.COM/MARKETPLACE MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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PANORAMA ART

Breaking the Mold Bold and contemporary, Cannupa Hanska Luger’s mixed-media artwork offers a fresh take on Southwestern and native themes

BY DANIELLE STEIN CHIZZIK • PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABRIELLA MARKS

A

t any given time, Cannupa Hanska Luger has at least three projects in various stages of completion. “I’m the worst multitasker,” says the ceramic and mixed-media sculptor, who works out of a studio attached to the house he built last year for his wife, Ginger, and their two young sons in the mountains of Glorieta, just outside of Santa Fe. “But working with clay, multitasking is almost a necessity. Otherwise, you sit there and watch clay dry all day.”

It’s a necessity for a second reason: Luger, who was born on the Standing Rock Reservation in North Dakota before his family moved to the Southwest (and whose first name is pronounced Channupa) is in serious demand. He currently has several works on display at Santa Fe’s Blue Rain, the gallery that has represented him for the last four years; he will be part of a group exhibition there in August.

Recently, he finished a series called Reliquary, consisting of elaborately adorned clay skulls that he’s installing into trophy cases at Duhesa Gallery at Colorado State University. “I wanted to make a body of work based on bone and decay and lovely detritus — it’s something I always harken back to, the idea that there’s beauty in the transition of life to death.”

He also has works — including a sculpture of two figures with projectors hidden in their heads that cast out-ofsync pieces of conversation onto each other’s chests, a commentary on the lack of true communication in our digital age — at the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff. Meanwhile, collectors seem to be champing at the bit for more.

“I love his ideas,” says Blue Rain’s Denise Phetteplace. “They’re intellectually engaging. The first solo show of his Artist Cannupa Hanska Luger and his mixed-media Reliquary series, now on exhibition at Duhesa Gallery in Fort Collins, Colorado. Opposite: Luger’s Leave Me A Home.

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TELLURIDE’S FOUR DIAMOND FULL SERVICE LUXURY HOTEL

ALL NEW SKY TERRACE

COLORADO SUMMER IS JUST AROUND THE BEND that we produced was titled Eat Prey, Love, which was a series of elegantly modeled predatory animals that were intertwined with their prey, frozen in a primal moment. It was hard to look away from them.” For another show, at Santa Fe’s Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, Luger made sculptures of literal stereos, which he adorned with kitschy, colorful accents — feathers, dream catchers — that people routinely associate with Native Americans. “I realized when I did that series that, at their core, stereotypes are one person trying to understand another,” Luger says. “The problem is when you stop digging and start just using icons as representative.”

But for all the depth and cleverness of his work, Luger insists that the concepts are the easy part of the equation.

“Having ideas is all good and fine, but what I really love is the process of building, of challenging myself to push together materials that don’t naturally go together, of making things that are aesthetically provocative and pleasing,” he says. “I’d rather be recognized as a craftsman than an artist. We’re all sensitive artists. But there’s a level of practice and commitment that comes with being a craftsman.”

Telluride, CO | (844) 497-0557 | madelinetelluride.com

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PANORAMA Best for:

THE FARMERS MARKET This all-purpose tote is roomy enough to carry your haul and tough enough to stand up to a little wear and tear. Stash Fyn Tote, $349, stashco.myshopify.com

SHOP

Baggage Claim These timeless leather bags are right at home in the rugged Southwest

Best for:

Best for:

Best for:

Best for:

BOARDROOM TO TACK ROOM

A DAY OF GALLERY HOPPING

A WEEKEND ROAD TRIP

GLAMPING UNDER THE STARS

A briefcase may scream “city slicker,” but this accordion-style satchel made from saddle-grade leather will impress even the most discerning of cowboys. Filson Leather Field Satchel, $890, filson.com

With a subtle nod to Southwestern style in its turquoise leather lace braiding, this bag fits right in among even the most fashionable crowds. Mellow Dawn Outsider Leather Travel Bag, available at Mast in Tucson, $420, ilovemast.com

Reminiscent of open-road journeys across the American West, this duffel only gets better with age. Just like you.

Itasca Watonwan Duffel Bag, $468, itascamoccasin.com

When your camping is glam, you need a backpack that is too. Pack it all in, in style, with this all-black pack.

Clare Vivier Agnes Backpack, $525, clarevivier.com

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TOP: W YNN MYERS, ST YLING BY SAR A OSWALT.

B Y E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N

DALL AS GR AND OPENING

FRIDAY, MARCH 18 4:30 – 7:30 PM 51A HIGHLAND PARK VILLAGE - DALLAS, TEXAS

IT ONLY TOOK 119 YEARS Join Dorado as we celebrate the grand opening of the first Filson store in Texas.

Our friends from Firestone & Robertson will be pouring their Texas-made craft whiskey alongside a live band, catered bites and a beer and wine bar — along with the Seattle outfitter’s latest goods.

CAN’T MAKE IT TO DALLAS? VISIT DORADOMAGAZINE.COM/FILSON FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A FILSON BAG

MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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OUTDOORS

IN DEEP Struck by the spirit of adventure, Cameron Martindell plunges into the Black Hole of Utah’s wet and wild White Canyon

S

pontaneous adventures, ironically, take time. It’s only after years of adventuring — rock climbing, search and rescue work, surfing, kayaking — that I find myself with the skill sets and gear to suddenly be suiting up to delve into a beautiful slot canyon just south of Hanksville in southern Utah. Four of us — Doug, Cory, Dan and I — are surrounded by orange-and-buff sandstone reaching up hundreds of feet. Wetsuit, helmet, harness: check, check, check. Backpack, rope, waterproof camera: check, check, check.

Gnarly textures and large bulbous formations are mixed among huge, completely smooth portions of the vertical and sometimes overhanging walls. These smooth surfaces are the result of when massive flakes of sandstone had decided they didn’t want to hold on anymore only to fall into the rubble of jagged detritus deep in the canyon below.

And, if the fallen stone made it all the way down the canyon, it wouldn’t be long before the raging spring melt-off waters of White Canyon Creek rounded out those jagged edges and erased evidence of the plummet entirely. But the creek isn’t currently flowing. It’s fall, and the rushing torrent of snowmelt from the spring and the flash floods of the summer rain have run their course. All that is left behind are the trapped pools of still water in the lowest parts of the canyon.

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ROCK BOTTOM

CAMERON MARTINDELL

Descending the jagged, orange-and-buff sandstone cliffs of southern Utah’s White Canyon is just the first challenge in trekking this epic slot canyon.

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From where we suit up, a smooth mirror of benign water welcomes us, and we step in. Ripples radiate out from our toes as if to alert the rest of the canyon of our approach.

Just two days before this moment, I was at home on the far side of the Rocky Mountains in Colorado.

Doug texted me to borrow a waterproof case for his phone. A request like that begs questioning. He was going canyoneering (or canyoning), which is simply the process of exploring a canyon by traveling down it. Where the water went down, the canyoneer went down — be it as a gentle babbling brook or rappelling over a cliff like a waterfall. I had done some of this in Australia and Switzerland, and when Doug came over to pick up the case he showed me some photos.

My constant expression of awe and deep interest prompted him to finally ask: “Do you want to come?”

With a nod from my understanding wife, I was off first thing the next morning. In my frantic process of packing the night before, not knowing quite what I was getting myself into, I overpacked. I didn’t really know how warm or cold the air and water would be; how torn up my gear would get from the abrasive

The walls get taller and come closer together. Our wetsuits are soaked through, and we appreciate

TWISTS AND TURNS

To reach White Canyon’s Black Hole, hikers must endure a series of swims, squeezes and scrambles.

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sandstone; what our camping situation was going to be like. I relied on my best guess based on what I knew about that part of Utah, what time of year it was and what Doug told me.

The shallow, clear pool where we first tread soon turns into a narrow channel of cold, neck-deep, murky brown water. As we venture farther, the walls get taller and come closer together. Our wetsuits are soaked through, and we appreciate how cold the water truly is. For the majority of the population, this is a pretty obscure little canyon. Very few guide services offer trips here and only by request. For the self-sufficient adventurer, the only way to know about this route is from meticulous guidebook research or from hearing about it from someone while sitting around a campfire or through some other grapevine.

I was no different, having first heard it from a friend of a friend. Finally, after a number of swims, squeezes and scrambles, we reach what this trip was known for: the Black Hole of White Canyon.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

how cold the water truly is.

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GUIDING LIGHT

The Black Hole’s pools of water, narrow canyon walls and shafts of light create an otherworldly experience.

more blue sky beyond the elusive, narrow, snaky silver that had guided us this far.

The fallen pile of sandstone chunks before us left only a small dark gap leading down farther into the earth. The Black Hole is deep and dark, and a subtle whiff of organic matter wafts up to tickle our nostrils. As our eyes adjust, we notice the mysterious shimmer of dark water below. From where we stand, we just want to jump the dozen feet down this rocky hole into the dark pool. But unlike my guided trip in Switzerland where each of the jumps had been scouted out to ensure the water was deep enough and there aren’t any lurking hazards, this is a complete unknown, and we have to climb down and ease ourselves into the dark, smelly waters.

There is nothing graceful about getting down.

Once Dan, our unofficial guide and the only one of us to have done this canyon before, is down and floating, the temptation to just jump taunts us again. But any sort of injury, even just a sprained ankle, would make for a very long and arduous evacuation.

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS

For more of our favorite Southwestern adventures, visit doradomagazine.com/big-adventures.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

The vertical walls start to mellow out and reveal

Our bodies stir the water and release the full brunt of the foul stench of decaying wood. Months earlier when the creek had stopped flowing and the water went stagnant, with sticks and other floating fragments became trapped. We swim a modified doggy paddle instead of our preferred elementary backstroke so that we are able to feel through the dark. One hand stretches out forward; the other swipes the floating foulness away. Soon, a light in the distance brings hope. The organic debris piled up downstream is thick enough to climb upon it, into the light, and ultimately escape the Black Hole.

Once back in the light of day, we take a moment to wipe the wood chunks from ourselves and move on. The scent lingers with us for a few more swims until we are rinsed clear.

The stretch of canyon we are exploring is only 5 miles long, but it took us four hours to crawl, climb, swim and splash our way past the various obstacles.

Our exit is obvious. The vertical walls start to mellow out and reveal more blue sky beyond the elusive, narrow, snaky silver that had guided us this far. On a flat rock perch above the canyon floor, confident we are done swimming, we peel the cold wet neoprene off our bodies and revel in the warm, dry Utah desert air.

My overpacking pays off. We are car camping after all. I have everything I need — gear, skill and strength — to be comfortable and safe on this trip; and, as it turns out, not just safe and comfortable, but to be able to escape the Black Hole.

Astronomically, a black hole is a gravitational field so strong, that light that can’t escape. For us, curiosity and the lure of adventure, exploration and natural beauty sucked us in. We came, we saw, we explored. I added another notch of experience to prepare me for my next spontaneous adventure.

To Be A PerfecT PArenT. There are thousands of kids in foster care who will take you just the way you are.

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AdoptUSKids.org MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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IN TOWN

VINTAGE ARIZONA Cottonwood’s charming Main Street has become an essential outpost for the Grand Canyon State’s burgeoning wine industry.

Kelly Vaughn gets a taste P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y D AW N K I S H

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I

t shouldn’t take five hours to get from Phoenix to Cottonwood.

But if an accident on the interstate and a detour along a winding mountain road stretch the usual two-hour venture into a much longer one, it’s comforting to know that one of central Arizona’s most charming small towns awaits, along with the promise of wine tasting. And maybe a slice or three of pizza.

Named for a circle of 16 cottonwood trees near the Verde, one of Arizona’s last free-flowing rivers, Cottonwood was founded as a farming settlement in 1879. Hay, grain and vegetables thrived in the rich, river-fed soil — as did grasses, cactuses, and mesquite and juniper trees. Today, though, that same sweet dirt is best known as the foundation for the state’s wine culture.

Many vineyards and wineries — Alcantara, Caduceus (powered by Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan), Javelina Leap, Arizona Stronghold and Page Springs Cellars among them — have popped up in the Verde Valley over the past decade, taking advantage

TRAIL MIX

Cottonwood’s quirky tasting rooms and restaurants have emerged as the heart of the booming Verde Valley Wine Trail.

of the sunshine and rocky soil that grows enviable grapes. Stress, it seems, causes a vine to produce fewer but more intensely flavored fruit — brave, bold fruit that makes the type of wine that master makers (and consumers) crave. In turn, the wineries have sparked the Verde Valley Wine Trail.

Cottonwood, at the valley’s center, is less crowded than neighboring Jerome and Sedona, which draw tourists in droves — Jerome for its funky arts vibe and Sedona for its red rock energy — and its historical Main Street was just quirky and quaint enough to draw attention from tasting room planners. Now, it’s a destination for day-tripping oenophiles.

That’s where I find myself on a crisp Saturday.

Bare trees hold the promise of spring, but the sky burns with winter blue, and the smell of spent campfires lingers. Main Street is relatively quiet, but that’s not the case at Pizzeria Bocce, where I have the day’s first glass of Arizona wine, a heady red blend made from grapes grown in southeastern Arizona and barrel aged in Camp Verde.

It pairs nicely with Bocce’s incredible wood-fired Cires pizza. Stacked with housemade Italian sausage, pepperoni, ricotta, mushrooms and mozzarella, it tastes even better after the long-haul drive.

Although not technically a tasting room, obviously, the restaurant does offer a wine list that features nearly two dozen bottles, including four from Arizona’s Dos Cabezas and Arizona Stronghold labels.

From Bocce, my partner and I walk a brisk block or so to Burning Tree Cellars. The space is a charming public living room, vast and comfortable, with leather seating and a considerable wooden bar, where our hosts tells me I’m welcome to do a tasting of several wines or order anything by the glass. Drawn by its label — a black and white illustration of a goat’s skull — I order a glass of the Scapegoat.

Described as having “suave and sexy aromas of macerated plum, black cherry, mocha and sage with hints of petrichor and gingerbread spices,” the Scapegoat is a blend of 86 percent merlot (sourced from southern Arizona) and 14 percent California petit verdot.

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LOCAL FLAVOR

Bocce serves a variety of Arizona beers and wines, including Arizona Stronghold and Dos Cabezas on tap.

As it turns out, petrichor is the smell of the desert after the rain, and it’s a fitting and lovely undertone to the Scapegoat, one of the top Arizona wines I’ve tried in a while. Our host recommends that we give Arizona Stronghold — just across Main Street — a try, and we venture back out, past a bookstore and clothing shops, windows full of vintage trinkets and Arizona kitsch.

With winemaker and owner Eric Glomski (he’s also the man behind Page Springs Cellars) at its helm, Arizona Stronghold wines have a presence in 33 U.S. markets, as well as in Canada and Australia.

The Cottonwood tasting room is a testament to the success of the label.

Bathed in the ample sunlight that pours through its front windows, the space is warm, hip and representative — I think — of what a tasting room should feel like. Canvases rich with local art line the terra

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cotta-colored walls that complement wood floors and leather furniture, and the quiet crowd is young.

I ask our host for a sample of what she considers the label’s “most representative Arizona wine,” and she’s generous with a pour of mourvedre. It’s the hint of cherry in this glass that makes me smile, and I sip it while talking to three other travelers who endured the long drive from Phoenix. As I read Arizona Stronghold’s menu — small plates pair with wine flights — and my partner captures street scenes and views of the room with his camera, we realize that the light is fading. We have two dogs back in Phoenix that are waiting to be fed, so this must be the last stop on our personal wine trail.

Back out into the chill, I look up Main Street.

Signs for Pillsbury Wine Company and Fire Mountain Wines hold the promise of a return trip — and the hope of a much shorter journey.

CENTRAL ARIZONA WINERIES AND TASTING ROOMS

Arizona Stronghold Vineyards 1023 N. Main St. azstronghold.com

Pillsbury Wine Company 1012 N. Main St. pillsburywine.com

COTTONWOOD Alcantara Vineyards and Winery 3445 S. Grapevine Way alcantaravineyard.com

Burning Tree Cellars 1040 N. Main St. burningtreecellars.com

Winery 101 747 N. Main St. winery101.com

DORADO • MARCH/APRIL 2016

Fire Mountain Wines 1010 N. Main St. firemountainwines.com

CORNVILLE Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery 1565 N. Page Springs Rd. javelinaleapwinery.com Page Springs Cellars 1500 N. Page Springs Rd. pagespringscellars.com

JEROME Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards Tasting Room 158 Main St. caduceus.org

CUT OVERHANGING BRANCHES

CLEAN GUTTERS

REMOVE FIREWOOD

L E A R N

T O

RECOGNIZE WILDFIRE HAZARDS I N

Y O U R

C O M M U N I T Y

A single ember from a wildfire can travel over a mile to your home or community.

Learn how to reduce wildfire damage by spotting potential hazards at fireadapted.org.

F IRE A DAPTED.ORG

MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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ON THE ROAD

MAR ATHON RUN For Texas road-trippers heading to Big Bend or Marfa, tiny Marathon has long been a favorite pit stop. Susan L. Ebert rediscovers a quaint town worth its own pilgrimage PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER BOOMER

s shafts of sunlight peek over the adobe courtyard walls, I snuggle deeper into the burnished, Mexican leather equipale chair outside my room’s door and lift a steaming mug of coffee to my lips. A male Anna’s hummingbird, recognizable by his brilliant magenta throat, dips his beak into a trumpet flower in the banquet of blooms surrounding me. As the emerging dawn illuminates the inner courtyard, countless more hummingbirds buzz amid the blooms in a high-speed ballet of iridescent color and speed.

Los Portales at the Gage Hotel might well be my favorite place to awaken, and I’m not alone: When Condé Nast Traveler tallied up its 2015 Readers’ Choice Awards, the list-topper for “Best Hotel in Texas” wasn’t Dallas’ famed Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Nor was it the regal La Mansión del Rio on the San Antonio River Walk. And the legendary Hotel Paisano in Marfa — which hosted Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean during the filming of Giant — didn’t even bust into the top 15.

Nope. The Gage Hotel, in the remote, unincorporated town of Marathon (population 430) at the foothills of the Glass Mountains, waltzed off with top honors, and for any of us who cherish staying there, the reason’s as clear as the west Texas sky. “I think it’s the entirety of the atmosphere here — and not just the hotel itself,” says the Gage’s Ann Urban as we stroll through the recently renovated property, and I wholeheartedly agree.

Back in my grad school days at the University of Texas at Austin, Marathon meant a mere gas-up stop on U.S. Route 385 before being swallowed up in Big Bend National Park’s 800,000-plus acres where 385 dead-ends. But when a friend of mine,

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E. Dan Klepper, moved there in 2002, I began to linger a bit longer each time I’d pass through.

Marathon’s unpretentious charms disarmed me: I no longer just blaze on by, but stop to savor its quirky and unpretentious character.

I should go thank him, I think as I gulp the last of my coffee, and set out to do so.

Just around the corner from the Gage, Klepper’s gallery on Avenue D sits diagonally across from the French Company Grocer. I step past the sleek Oldsmobile Starfire convertible at the curb (which looks as out of place in this rough country as would Mikhail Baryshnikov at a rodeo), shout a “howdy” through the door, and Klepper comes striding out. “I know,” he says with a shrug, noting my quizzical glance at the ebony machine. “Bought it down in Presidio — really good price.”

Atmosphere — how Urban described the Gage — defines Klepper’s current gallery works. He digitally processes the images he wrests from his camera, then transfers them to massive canvases. Standing close to one, the freeze frame of the ethereal space between earth and sky seems to enwreathe you much as does the Big Bend vista that inspired it.

Strolling back along the main street I pop into another gallery, that of photographer James H. Evans, who left Austin in 1988 to make Marathon his home.

His gallery gleams with images gleaned from his decades-long love affair with Big Bend and its inhabitants — some human, others avian, mammalian and even reptilian. His Big Bend National Park photography is of such fine caliber that Ansel Adams’ son, George, now in his 80s, sought out Evans to accompany him on an extensive tour of the park. Also for sale in the Evans Gallery are works from local artists and the charming Desert Critter Wear line, a project

SOUTHWEST STYLE

Clockwise from top left: Picking up essentials at the French Company Grocer; the Gage Hotel’s Texas charm; art appreciation at Klepper Gallery; morning sustenance at Eve’s Garden Bed & Breakfast.

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ROAD AHEAD

Next stop for many travelers passing through Marathon: Texas’ Big Bend National Park.

of Evans’ and his partner, Marci Roberts. (If Evans isn’t there, call the number on the handwritten note on the door: His studio’s just a block away.)

Evans isn’t Marathon’s senior artist-in-residence, though; that honor goes to 98-year-old artisan Maisie Lee, who moved to Marathon in 1939. As Lee, who has been carving evocative, primitive figures on wooden doors for nearly seven decades, is semi-retired, Evans and I stroll over to Marathon Coffee, which is run by her daughter-in-law Nancy, so I can admire one of her more recent works.

Having awakened at 5 a.m., I’m famished after a busy morning. And having consumed a colossal cheeseburger (along with fries and two glasses of a fine malbec, mind you) the evening before at the Gage’s White Buffalo Bar, I opt for a bit lighter fare and amble over to Roberts’ French Company Grocer.

An architect by trade, Marci Roberts purchased the then-flagging grocery in 2006 and relentlessly pursued the perfect structure for a portable sandwich, swapping in crisp red pepper for soggy tomatoes and a snappy jalapeño for the obligatory pickle. A sheaf about an inch thick of iceberg lettuce provides a satisfying crunch.

Today’s choice: smoked peppered turkey.

Roberts stocks Big Bend necessities from sunscreen, hats, hiking socks and guidebooks to a gleaming high-end Yeti cooler and a nicely curated selection of wines and organic foods. And as if that wasn’t enough to keep her busy, she’s involved with ongoing architectural projects and a driving force behind the Marathon Foundation, which recently scored big with the donation to the

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Marathon school district of a 24-inch Dobsonian telescope by the University of Texas’ McDonald Observatory.

Marathon rates a Class One on the Bortle Dark-Sky Scale for its studded skies. “Marathon’s not trying to be anything else,” she tells me, in obvious reference to the art mecca to the west, Marfa. “We’re just trying to make life better here.”

Sandwich stashed in my bag, I jump in the Jeep for a 5-mile jaunt out Post Road to Post Park for a picnic alongside Fort Peña Colorado Park, arguably one of the best birding sites in Texas. Greeting me at the gate is a group of more than 30 jakes — year-old males that are the turkey equivalent of mischievous teenage boys — and as I stroll among the cottonwoods to find a spot for my snack, a covey of quail explodes from the brush at my feet.

As I dine, vermilion flycatchers swoop from the branches above to nab insects and dart back into the boughs.

Later, I indulge myself with a deep-tissue massage at the Gage Spa, then take Klepper’s recommendation to spend the night at Eve’s Garden Bed & Breakfast. “The breakfasts are incredible,” he says.

And he’s right. Eve’s — a fantastic concoction of original structures, straw-bale buildings and papercrete painted in exuberant south-of-the-border hues — surrounds a lush inner courtyard garden where the Mad Hatter would be right at home hosting a tea party. In the morning, I amble to the kitchen, where a sunrise feast of lemon-ricotta pancakes is accompanied by organic yogurt, fresh fruit and locally produced sausage. Over breakfast, I meet a group of gal-pals who dub themselves the Adventure Divas. “We come here every year,” says one, “to stargaze, to hike, to shop — and simply to restore ourselves.”

Seems I’m not the only one who’s discovered the joys of a Marathon run.

SHOP:

MARATHON MUSTS Evans Gallery

Klepper Gallery

James Evans’ iconic images, plus notecards and art by George Zupp, Joe Vancho and Paul Wiggins. 21 S. First St.

Gallery works and books by E. Dan Klepper and sculptures

by Mary Baxter. 105 N. Ave. D

French Company Grocer

V6 Collection

No doubt this well-curated shop has that missing item needed to make your Big Bend adventure complete, from organic foods and fresh-baked cookies to wine and beer. 206 N. Ave. D

Not “just” the Gage Hotel gift shop, this eclectic mix of one-of-a-kind treasures includes furniture, home décor, tabletop, wall art, and chandeliers so you can bring a bit of the Big Bend home.

102 NW First St.

The Rusty Rabbit

Pitaya Verde

Rummage around among the antiques, estate jewelry, original artwork, rustic furniture and collectibles.

103 NW First St.

Modern, Southwest-inspired clothing from Double D Ranchwear and 4 Love & Liberty by Johnny Was. 107 NW First St.

ONLINE

HELLO, TEX AS Dorado embodies the diverse spirit of the Southwest. And a huge part of the Southwest is Texas. We’re thrilled to announce new, expanded coverage into the Lone Star State.

Join us as we explore big adventures and refined living in the great state of Texas.

From tours through towns like Marathon and Marfa, to a Hill Country road trip and interviews with the artisans that call Austin and San Antonio home, doradomagazine.com ventures deep into the heart of Texas.

ONLINE THIS MONTH

GETAWAY One more run: Where to go for the best spring skiing

DINE Eat your way through Albuquerque’s hip Nob Hill neighborhood

EXPLORE SHOP Our favorite gear for exploring the desert after dark

SERGIO SALVADORE

3 Big Bend hikes to try this spring

Show us everything you love about the Southwest.

Tag your photos with #MyDorado and we’ll share our favorites.

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM @dorado_mag

@doradomag

/doradomagazine

/doradomagazine

editor@doradomagazine.com

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO

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N I G H T F A L L S TA R RY S K I E S . VA S T, M O O N L I T L A N D S C A P E S .

N O C T U R NA L W I L D L I F E O N T H E H U N T. T H E SOUTHWEST BOASTS A DIFFERENT KIND OF NIGHTLIFE — AND THERE ARE INFINITE, T H R I L L I N G WAY S T O E X P E R I E N C E I T S M A G I C

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HAGEPHOTO

NIGHT WATCH

An evening hike on Treasure Loop Trail in the Superstition Mountains’ Lost Dutchman Park, east of Mesa, Arizona.

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STA R GA Z I N G CHACO CU LT U R E NAT IONAL HI S T OR I C AL PARK , NEW M EXI C O

A thousand years ago, Chaco Canyon, in northwestern New Mexico, was the commercial and ceremonial hub of the Four Corners region, an architectural marvel of massive stone houses and beanpole-straight roads that stretched for hundreds of miles. The ancient Puebloans gazed up at the same night sky we do, but their relationship to the heavens remains an enigma with tantalizing clues.

They left precise astronomical alignments on their buildings that still accurately mark equinoxes and solstices, petroglyphs that mark sunrises, and even a pictograph that rangers believe illustrates the Supernova of 1054. After dark, listen to rangers tell stories about the ancients and their relationship with the stars and, with a visiting astronomer, peer through a 25-inch-wide telescope to see what the moon and planets look like up close. Even better, visit Chaco on an equinox or solstice when rangers lead groups to watch rising sunbeams illuminate special astronomical markers that have stood motionless for centuries.

FIVE H E AV E N LY SPOTS

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1

NATURAL BRIDGES INTERNATIONAL DARK SKY PARK What was once the shore of an ancient sea is now a mecca for stargazing in southeastern Utah. Visitors can camp near the three sandstone bridges that were carved by streams and take in awe-inspiring views of the night sky.

2

FOUR SEASONS RESORT SCOTTSDALE A professional astronomer leads complimentary stargazing talks under the Sonoran sky each week. For a more intimate experience, couples can head out on an after-dark picnic, packed complete with a constellation chart.

WALLY PACHOLK A /ASTROPICS.COM

3

ENCHANTED ROCK STATE NATURAL AREA Enchanted Rock in Texas’ Hill Country is one of only two state parks to be recognized by the International Dark-Sky Association. Astronomers hold the Enchanted “Rock Star” Party where pros and novices alike come to marvel at what lies above.

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LOWELL OBSERVATORY If you want to level up your stargazing skills, head to Flagstaff, Arizona, where astronomers discovered Pluto from atop the hill in 1930. Join the pros each evening as they open up the telescopes to view the stars.

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THE LITTLE NELL Head out into the wild with a stargazing Jeep tour. At this boutique hotel in Aspen, Colorado, an adventure concierge and stargazing expert take guests out to see meteor showers, shooting stars and constellations, all while enjoying a little bubbly.

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T H E D E S E RT NIGHTLIFE S C O T T S DA L E , A RIZ O NA

1 THREE NOCTURNAL ANIMALS

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BARN OWL Its heart-shaped face and creamy, toffee-toned plumage give the barn owl a distinct look. At night, the moonlit desert landscape offers them a vast, open area to hunt their prey such as small rodents.

2

BATS Arizona is home to 28 breeds of bats, the second-highest variety in the United States, just behind Texas.

These flying predators get a bad rep, but bats devour insects in flight, controlling the bug population and pulling their weight on the food chain.

3

MOJAVE RATTLESNAKE An encounter with a Mojave rattlesnake may rattle some nerves.

The primarily nocturnal reptile hides in the shade for long hours, especially during summer months, and its venom is the most potent found in any rattlesnake on the continent.

R APHOTO; OPPOSITE, COURTESY SHOOTING STAR RV RESORT

What happens when you look down instead of up after the sun sets in the desert? Stellar Adventures wants to show you everything the Sonoran Desert has to offer after dark, on the ground. Aboard off-roading Jeeps and armed with night-vision goggles, your guide will take you where wildlife gather. Critters that were once camouflaged among the shrubs and dirt will now stand out in the greenish hue of your new specs. For a human-powered adventure, tackle your favorite peak while hunting scorpions on a moonlight hike with Hike in Phoenix or take a flashlight tour of the Desert Botanical Garden.

D R I V E - I N M OV I E S S HOOT ING S TAR RV R ES ORT ESCALANT E, U TAH

Escalante, a remote settlement of 800 in southern Utah, experiences well over 300 days of sunshine each year — weather perfect for exploring the canyons of nearby Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and, naturally, watching movies under the stars. After dark on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, between spring and fall, Shooting Star RV Resort screens films from old Westerns to Humphrey Bogart classics at its drive-in movie theater. Don’t have a roll-top? Rent one of its classic 1960s convertibles, set up in front of the screen, and take in the film, a huge dome of stars and plenty of hot, buttery popcorn.

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RAFTING THE C O LO R A D O VAIL, CO L OR AD O

RYAN HEFFERNAN/AUROR A , THINKSTOCK (INSET)

Carving its way through Colorado, Arizona, Nevada and Utah, the Colorado River plays host to some of the region’s most spectacular views, from the peaks of the Rocky Mountains to the turquoise waters of Havasu Falls and beyond. But there’s one view in particular that has rafters opting for a later start time — the one through their night-vision goggles. The team at Lakota Guides near Vail takes thrill-seekers out on the river on a nightly basis, equipping everyone with a pair of goggles that allows them to experience the river and its surroundings after dark. Think thunderous tail slaps by sneaky beavers, stars that practically jump out of the sky, and the symphony of the surrounding forest paired with the movement of the water beneath you.

While you won’t tackle the biggest whitewater (this trip sticks to Class I and II rapids), the experience of being in the remote outdoors after dark is often a thrill in and of itself.

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M A R FA L I G H TS M AR FA , TEXAS

NIGHT MOVES

Shop our favorite gear for after-hours exploring at doradomagazine.com/nighttime.

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ED DAR ACK /CORBIS (MARFA ); THINKSTOCK (LIGHTNING)

Just outside of Marfa, the hip art town in the otherworldly desert of west Texas, strange glowing orbs appear after dark, mystifying Native Americans, early explorers, locals, tourists and even scientists for generations.

Viewers report yellow, blue and white lights that flicker, merge and appear to travel quickly across the land. Are they extraterrestrials, ghosts, gases or optical illusions? No one knows. What’s certain is they appear most nights and the designated viewing platform on Highway 90, 9 miles east of Marfa, is the best place to catch a glimpse of these bizarre illuminations and ponder their mind-bending mysteries.

THE LIGHTNING FIELD Q UEM ADO, N EW M EXI C O

In the remote desert of western New Mexico, 400 steel poles stand erect — all the same height, perfectly positioned in a precise grid. While it might look like a science experiment to some, this is, in fact, The Lightning Field, an art installation by the late Walter De Maria. This strangely beautiful Land Art masterpiece spans 4 square miles and is best experienced on an overnight trip (a simple but comfortable cabin can be reserved through the Dia Art Foundation). Watch this industrial structure transform while overlooking the field of steel, listen to coyotes howl under a blanket of stunning starlight and stand by for a rare but possible strike of lightning.

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FARM AND TABLE

Diners and devoted “Fieldheads” settle in for an Outstanding in the Field dinner at Plowshares Community Farm in Longmont, Colorado.

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Fıeld Day

A traveling, pop-up feast, Outstanding in the Field joins food purveyors with the communities they sustain. Jen Murphy pulls up a chair and revels in the gorgeous, alfresco experience PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER OLSON

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im Denevan could be considered a culinary rock star. Each summer Denevan and his small crew — glorified roadies — crisscross the country in a 1950s bus named Outstanding, putting on dinners at a different farm, sometimes nightly. A local chef and farmer headline and tickets sell out in seconds, even at $200 to $250 a pop. His tour has earned a cult following of what Denevan refers to as “Fieldheads,” foodies who follow his Outstanding in the Field roadshow attending 10-plus events a season.

To throw a dinner party in a field and celebrate not the chef, but rather the farmer, was a novel idea in 1999. The farm-to-table movement was still in its infancy and no one had heard of a pop-up restaurant. Yet Denevan, then a chef at a restaurant in northern California, cooked three dinners that summer on farms in his hometown of Santa Cruz, California. He hosted two more in 2000, then cooked seven meals in 2002 and eight in 2003. In 2004 he left the restaurant business to tour North America.

“People said, sure you can hold a dinner on a farm in California, but try the rest of the country,” Denevan recalls. To date, he’s hosted more than 700 dinners in all 50 states and nine countries.

In the early days, Denevan cooked all of the meals himself, working with the farmers to create a menu

“I once had a chef tell me he had two dreams: One was to cook at the James Beard House. The other was to cook at an Outstanding in the Field event.” straight from the land. A few years in, he started collaborating with chefs such as Dan Barber of New York’s Blue Hill Stone Barns and David Kinch of Manresa in Los Gatos, California. “I once had a chef tell me he had two dreams: One was to cook at the James Beard House. The other was to cook at an Outstanding in the Field event,” says Denevan. “That still humbles me.”

Preparing for an Outstanding in the Field dinner is an all-day proposition. I arrive at Plowshares Community Farm in Longmont, Colorado, just before noon. The sun is high and hot in the sky. Tory Hancock, the farm manager, introduces herself, points me to the crew, then quickly excuses herself to go work in the fields. The small organic farm, run by

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four women, is known for its Berkshire pork but also grows heirloom vegetables, including rainbow carrots, torpedo onions and fairy tale eggplant. Chef Steve Redzikowski and his team from Boulder’s popular restaurant Oak at Fourteenth are busy prepping many of these vegetables for tonight’s meal. Cutting boards are piled high with carrots and beets, and Flintstonessized cuts of pork are roasting slowly on the grill.

A communal table stretches alongside a babbling stream just off to the side of the fields and is set for 110 guests. Denevan, 54, wanders over from an afternoon nap and joins me. He wears dark denim jeans with a gray V-neck T-shirt that shows off his tanned, sun-speckled arms and hides behind the brim of straw cowboy hat. I expect him to talk about the dinners, but instead he takes out his phone and shows me photos of his art. His large-scale, temporary sand drawings have earned him a following in the art world. He’s been hired by brands such as Hyundai and created a work at the 2015 Art Basel Miami fair. Commissions, he confides, largely helped fund Outstanding in the Field early on. “A lot of people ask if I’m sad when the ocean or wind washes away my work,” he says. “It’s like a meal, you create it to be enjoyed in the moment, not to last forever.”

Guests start to arrive, plates in hand. Ever since the first Outstanding in the Field dinner, Denevan

HAPPY EATING

Clockwise from top left: Artist and Outstanding in the Field mastermind Jim Denevan makes sure every table is set in the perfect “wow” location; a hearty salad of farro and heirloom vegetables goes around the table; Seth Heitzenrater and Katie Briggs, two of Outstanding’s core crew; an appetizer of summer squash crostini.

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FAIR-WEATHER FRIENDS

New friendships are made around a table, where people from as far as Australia have come to experience these unique farm meals.

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Strangers moments before, we’re now passing plates and sharing stories like longtime friends.

has asked guests to bring their own plates. “It’s a nod to the tradition of everyone bringing something to the table,” he explains. Bearded hipsters from Denver don suspenders and flat caps. Women tiptoe along in espadrilles, and some have even dared to wear heels.

Guests mingle under the shade of a large cottonwood tree where Bryan Dayton, cocktail wizard and co-owner of Oak at Fourteenth, has set up the bar and is pouring glasses of Denver’s Infinite Monkey Theorem rosé. I sip a refreshing cocktail named Monk’s Garden, made from Thai basil-and-tarragon-infused Bear Creek Distillery vodka, muddled cucumber and green Chartreuse.

The hour-long reception features a tangy, basilspiked gazpacho made with carrots from the fields just steps away. Two women struggle to balance plates of grilled squash and ricotta crostini as they take a selfie in front of the pigpen. Denevan steps up onto a crate and welcomes the crowd. When Denevan asks how many people have traveled from another state, more than half of the hands go up. “How about another country?” he queries. A group of Aussies give out a cheer. The audience is in rapture as Denevan retells his story. When he references collaborating with San Francisco’s Delfina restaurant and blanks on the chef ’s name, a woman in the crowd quickly offers up, “Craig Stoll!” — then admits, “I’m a food nerd.”

Most of the crowd tends to be food nerds.

“Sometimes I feel like my yearly schedule revolves around two things: Thanksgiving and the release of Outstanding in the Field tickets,” admits Brie De Felice, who has attended five Outstanding in the Field dinners.

Eva Teague, the owner of Plowshares, and Hancock take to the crates. Teague had been wearing cutoff jean shorts and driving a tractor just hours before but is now dolled up in a sundress and cowgirl boots. You’d never guess this slim young woman is the head farmer, unless you looked closely and noticed the soil under her fingernails. “Let’s see some pigs before feasting,” Hancock yells. A farm tour ensues.

Each section of table is divided into groups of eight. I clink glasses with my seatmates, all foodies from the Denver area. Our waiter introduces himself as Sequoia from Santa Cruz and delivers the first course, a heaping platter of Anson Mills farro tossed with roasted squash from nearby Red Wagon Farm, basil pesto, baby kale and toasted hazelnuts.

“I could eat this every night,” sighs Megan Casimir, who is here with her husband, Jeff. This is the young couple’s third Outstanding in the Field dinner. The

table debates the best Mexican restaurant in Denver as Sequoia refills our wineglasses and brings over the next course, a salad of roasted carrots, beets, mozzarella and arugula, dressed in an ancho chile vinaigrette. Denevan later announces that Redzikowski is one of his favorite chefs to work with because he deeply understands what the food should be — simple, fresh, flavorful and of the place.

In true Colorado style, guests a few seats down pass around a joint. Through the cloud of pot smoke I catch a delicious porky aroma. Jeff Casimir volunteers to carve the massive pork shoulder and marvels at the perfect crust. I serve the accompanying purple and yellow potatoes, onions and green beans.

Strangers moments before, we’re now passing plates and sharing stories like longtime friends.

As if scripted, a glowing blue moon rises into the sky. Denevan and his crew pose for a photo in front of an old orange tractor. As the last guests drive away, I clink wineglasses with Denevan and ask if he ever gets tired of life on the road. “We get to explore the country through food, through small farms,” he says.

“How could that ever be tiring?”

Pork Shoulder with Farm Vegetables and Cilantro Jalapeño Vinaigrette PORK SHOULDER 3-3½ pounds pork shoulder Salt Chipotle powder Pork or chicken stock 1 carrot, peeled and chopped (1-inch pieces) 2 stalks celery, chopped (1-inch pieces) 1 onion, medium diced 2 heads garlic, cut in half

CILANTRO JALAPEÑO VINAIGRETTE 3 jalapeños (seeds and all) 4 large garlic cloves 1 quart cilantro 1 bunch parsley ½ cup rice vinegar 1 cup olive oil 3 teaspoons salt

Rub the pork shoulder with salt and chipotle power and place on grill.

Grill on all sides. Place pork shoulder in a slow cooker (or large roasting/ braise pan) and cover with pork stock (or chicken stock) and add carrot, celery, onion and garlic. Place lid on slow cooker and set to low for 4 hours. (If using braise/roasting pan, cover and put into 250 F oven for 4 hours. ) When tender — but not falling apart — remove from liquid and grill again. Set aside.

VEGETABLES 6 farm (or Yukon gold) potatoes 5 farm onions, cut into quarters 3 cups of green beans

Add everything into the blender and blend until smooth. Set aside

Place potatoes, about golf ball size, in a foil packet with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place foil packet over grill and cook until tender. Once potatoes are slightly tender, add farm onions and green beans. Close up foil packet and grill until the onions are slightly tender.

To Serve: Place the vegetables on a platter and top with the pork shoulder.

Drizzle with vinaigrette.

GET YOUR TICKETS

To see a full list of Outstanding in the Field’s upcoming events, visit outstandinginthefield.com.

RECIPE BY STEVEN REDZIKOWSKI, CHEF/PARTNER OF OAK AT FOURTEENTH (BOULDER) AND ACORN (DENVER)

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D E S E R T

NICE DIGS

Frank Lloyd Wright’s design for Taliesin West embraced the home’s Arizona setting, using building materials straight from the desert floor and blending indoor and outdoor spaces.

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V I S I O N

CAROL M. HIGHSMITH/LIBR ARY OF CONGRESS

Frank Lloyd Wright first came to Arizona in 1927 and soon found inspiration in the Sonoran Desert. The architect set up a winter camp that evolved into a beacon for progressive Southwestern design. Steven Beschloss retraces his journey

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Clockwise from top left: Surrounded by Phoenix citrus groves, the Wright House was designed by the architect for his son David; Wright at home; apprentices were expected to help design and build projects; the Rose Pauson House, which burned down in 1943; Wright and family survey the “Ocatilla” Desert Camp.

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TOP LEFT, BOTTOM ROW (2), © 2016 PEDRO E. GUERRERO ARCHIVES; COURTESY THE FR ANK LLOYD WRIGHT FOUNDATION (2)

DESERT DWELLER

ANDREW PIEL AGE

When I was moving to the Phoenix area nearly a decade ago, I knew I needed an anchor, some way to connect with this spread-out place and imagine myself staying. Then I visited Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter retreat in Scottsdale, tucked up against the McDowell Mountains and replete with saguaro cactus. It all began to make sense.

My calculation was simple: If this spot was good enough for one of the world’s great architects back in the 1930s when he began building here, surely I could find a humble abode that would remind me how special this place is. Lucky for me, I did, barely a minute away; every day I traverse Frank Lloyd Wright Boulevard, Taliesin Drive and a 500-acre desert preserve right next to Frank’s place.

This has led me to explore Wright’s rich history and imprint throughout the Phoenix area. This includes the David and Gladys Wright House, the Arizona Biltmore resort, Arizona State University’s Gammage theater, and an overall design aesthetic and environmental philosophy — what he named “organic architecture” — that reveres and responds to the indigenous nature by using local materials and creating humanistic structures that resonate with the surrounding landscape.

Wright’s inspiration here was clear from the beginning. While consulting on the construction and design of the Biltmore in 1928 (Albert Chase McArthur, a former student, was the architect of record), he bypassed a rented apartment and created a makeshift desert camp for his family and staff using white canvas and wood frames — what he named “Ocatilla” and described as an “ephemera” looking like “ships balanced in the breeze.” He wrote about this winter project with great pride: “We have met the desert, love it and lived with it, and the desert is ours.”

This was in stark contrast to the rising Biltmore, which relied on concrete blocks, including “Biltmore Blocks,” a variation of a textile block he used in private homes, precast from desert sand and incorporating one of 34 geometric patterns inspired by palm trees. Opened in 1929, just on the cusp of the Great Depression, the Biltmore has continued to be a luxurious artistic expression and time-honored getaway.

The only thing that remains of Wright’s commission

to design and build another resort, San Marcos-inthe-Desert, are the drawings; that dream was crushed by the stock market collapse in October 1929.

But a serious, indeed delirious, bout of pneumonia in 1936 reignited Wright’s desire to come again to the Arizona desert, heeding the advice of his doctor that drier, sunnier climes would extend his life by 20 years. On the heels of his success with the house Fallingwater in western Pennsylvania, he acquired some 600 acres in Scottsdale in 1937, bringing his “fellowship” of apprentices and family and starting construction on the landmark retreat that would be his winter home until his death in 1959. At the spry age of 71, “this was the start of another renaissance for him,” says Fred Prozzillo, director of preservation for the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, based at Taliesin West.

IN THE FAMILY

Above: The Wright House is now home to the architect’s 33-yearold great-greatgranddaughter, Sarah Levi, who was invited to be its first scholar in residence.

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Clockwise from top left: The last home Wright designed, the Norman Lykes House, hit the market this year for $3.6 million; a geometric bell tower at Taliesin West; concrete “Biltmore Blocks” served as the design foundation for the Arizona Biltmore resort.

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What did the master architect himself have to say about Taliesin West and his site selection tucked up to the McDowell Mountains? “I was struck by the beauty of the desert, by the dry, clear sundrenched air, by the stark geometry of the mountains; the entire region was an inspiration in strong contrast to the lush, pastoral landscape of my native Wisconsin. And out of that experience, a revelation is what I guess you might call it, came the design for these buildings.”

Visitors today can still experience the singular beauty and harmonious way these low-slung structures nestle into the environment. “There is pure geometry everywhere you look,” Prozzillo says. Native American petroglyphs found (and preserved) here from the Hohokam people only added to the sense of importance. “He felt the history of the site.”

The collection of buildings — including living quarters, offices and work studios, a dining hall, library, theaters and other gathering places — made use of desert stone, sand, wood and other found materials that deepen the connection with the landscape. He also constructed calm-inducing interior

DORADO • MARCH/APRIL 2016

spaces, something rarely felt in more typical box-like structures. “Wright was great about creating space for people to inhabit — what he called the space within,” Prozzillo explains. Often, as you move into the rooms, it can feel tight, even cramped, with narrow passages and low ceilings, but then you enter into a larger open space — a powerful, purposefully created experience that Prozzillo describes as “compression and release.”

While Wright treated Taliesin West as a laboratory, trying out new ideas and frequently making changes over the years, he also found time for many other projects. In the Arcadia section of Phoenix that was densely populated with citrus groves, he completed in 1952 (at the age of 86) a concrete block house for his son David and his wife, Gladys. This intensely expressive spiral structure with a curving ramp, rising in the air to experience the treetops and views of Phoenix’s iconic Camelback Mountain, provides a creative precursor to Wright’s 1959 masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

The David and Gladys Wright House almost faced the wrecking ball after 104-year-old Gladys

TIM STREET-PORTER /OTTO. OPPOSITE PAGE: SCOTTSDALE CVB (TOP), ALBERT MACARTHUR

FINE LINES

died in 2008 and a subsequent owner envisioned turning the romantic 6-acre site into a multihouse development. But the acquisition by local lawyer and architecture enthusiast Zach Rawling and his family — along with ongoing efforts to secure landmark status and renovate the private residence into a living museum — is solidifying its place in the community with tours, cultural events, performances and school visits. One nice touch: Sarah Levi, Wright’s 33-yearold great-great-granddaughter, was invited to be the first scholar in residence and currently lives in one of the bedrooms.

“It’s a dream project … an opportunity to reinvigorate this Wright legacy,” says Rawling, who lived nearby and was fascinated by it as a child. As we move through the curved rooms and halls that explode the boxy forms of traditional architecture, past the carefully choreographed built-ins and perfectly preserved (and round) ’50s-era kitchen, Rawlings says, “This was Wright announcing the future.”

Wright fans also may be intrigued by the circular, salmon-colored ASU Gammage theater on the campus of Arizona State University in Tempe — a

3,000-seat auditorium based on a design originally intended to be an opera house in Baghdad, Iraq, completed in 1964 after Wright’s death. One day, enthusiasts might be able to visit the curvaceous Norman Lykes House, Wright’s last design, built in 1967, which came up for sale a few months ago. The Phoenix mountainside home was listed for $3.6 million.

But Taliesin West remains the most complete and comprehensive realization of Wright’s ideas and ambitions. More than 75 years after Wright and his fellowship first began building, it continues as a functioning, accredited architecture school — requiring its graduate students to live in shelters they create to learn firsthand how their designs and use of materials function in the demanding desert environment. (Tours of the “I was struck nearly two dozen habitable shelters provide a fund for students to buy by the beauty materials and, in years past, travel to of the desert, Greece, Turkey and Japan.) by the dry, In the coming months, Taliesin West and Wright’s historical legacy clear sunmay well begin a new chapter. A drenched air, National Historic Landmark since by the stark 1982, it is one of 10 Wright masterworks being given final consideration geometry of as a joint UNESCO World Heritage the mountains; List addition. The list is a collection the entire of natural and cultural sites based on their “outstanding universal value” region was an and such factors as representing “a inspiration.” masterpiece of creative genius.”

Currently, there are 22 World Heritage sites in the U.S., but the Wright works — including Taliesin West, Taliesin in Wisconsin, the Guggenheim, Fallingwater and the Marin County Civic Center in northern California — are the first U.S. nominations for modern architecture.

Wright was rarely modest about his achievements, calling himself the greatest architect of the 20th century. His inclusion on this honored list would not only expand international tourism and exposure to his buildings — it would add fresh credence to his own estimation.

Whether he is the world’s greatest or one of the greats, I remain indebted to Wright’s eye in choosing this desert location. Every day I am moved by its rugged beauty and the magnetic way the landscape inspires and calms.

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GAME Our favorite athletes to watch at this year’s GoPro Mountain Games in Vail — and the gear they can’t live without PHOTOGRAPHY by MATT NAGER

G EO RG IA GOUL D AGE: 36 SPORTS: Mountain biking and

cyclocross

TRAINING SPOT: Fort Collins, Colorado CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES: 7-time

national champion, 2-time Olympian, 2012 Olympic bronze medal.

PROUDEST MOMENT: Winning the

bronze at the 2012 London Olympics — such an honor to represent the USA! GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE:

Qualify for Rio Olympics, win the national championship and podium at a World Cup. WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT:

There is the physical aspect of pushing yourself and getting stronger.

I also love being outside and getting to ride my bike in lots of different environments.

Racing bike: Orbea. Helmet and gloves: Giro. Skinsuit: Capo. Socks: SockGuy. Shoes: Shimano. Water bottles, Camelbak. GPS: Garmin Edge 800.

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ON

BR EN T REDDEN AGE: 37 SPORTS: Kayaking, stand-up

paddleboarding and rafting

TRAINING SPOT: GOAT Gym in

Edwards, Colorado

RECENT CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES:

2015 Ultimate River Challenge

PROUDEST MOMENT: Being a dad.

GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE:

Keep pushing it — and enjoy it.

WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT:

I love being on the water and the new challenges that are always in front of you.

Stand-up paddleboard, Starboard Stream Crossover. Paddle: Werner Grand Prix. Shoes and personal flotation device: Astral. Watch: Tudor. Helmet: Sweet Protection.

Shirt: Ibex. Board shorts: Patagonia.

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J O SEP H G R AY AGE: 31 SPORTS: Mountain, road, cross-country

and trail running

TRAINING SPOTS: Colorado,

Washington and Switzerland

CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES: 2015 USA

Mountain Runner of the Year, 2015 U.S. Skyrunner Series Vertical Kilometer Champion, 2015 GoPro Games Spring Run-off 10K Champion.

PROUDEST MOMENT:

Representing Team USA for the 19th time in my career.

GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE:

I want to be better than I was.

WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT:

The freedom it offers is incomparable.

Part of my job includes things I truly have a passion for such as exploration, blending with new cultures when traveling, and competing with athletes across the globe.

Running shirt: Merrell. Hat: Spenco.

Shoes: Merrell All Out Terra Trail.

Heart rate monitor: Mio Global.

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J O HN M ARK S EEL IG AGE: 39 SPORT: Whitewater rafting TRAINING SPOT: Owner and trainer

at GOAT Gym in Edwards, Colorado RECENT CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES:

3-time USA Rafting Champion; captain of the U.S. Men’s Rafting Team.

PROUDEST MOMENT: Becoming

the father of the coolest kid, my 2-year-old, Bowen … oh, and winning nationals last year with a new team.

GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE:

Winning nationals again, training U.S. Sailing One and seeing my athletes at the gym accomplish their own goals.

WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT: There

is nothing like it! You truly rely on each other like no other team sport I have ever been a part of.

Helmet: WRSI by NRS. Shoes: Chaco.

Camera: GoPro Hero4 Session.

Compression shirt, pants and shorts: 2XU. Personal flotation device: NRS. Raft: Sotar. Paddle: Galasport.

T ROU BL E AGE: 2 BREED: Dutch shepherd SPORT: DockDogs TRAINING SPOT: Jasper’s Splash Zone,

the K9 Body Shop and my own backyard.

FAVORITE TRAINING TREATS: Zukes HOMETOWN: Lafayette, Colorado CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES: 1st Place, Iron

Dog Titan at the 2016 World Championships; 2015 Big Air top-ranked Dutch Shepherd; DockDogs Iron Dog Titan.

PROUDEST MOMENT: Placing 4th overall at

the 2016 World Championships in the Big Air Super Elite, achieving a new personal best of 29 during the competition.

GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE: Achieving

an Iron Dog Spartan title and completing narcotics detection training.

Camera: GoPro Hero4 Silver with Fetch harness.

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MEG A N MA S C ARENA S AGE: 18 SPORTS: Rock climbing and

bouldering

TRAINING SPOT: Sport Climbing

Center, The Pit and ABC in Colorado Springs, Colorado RECENT CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES:

1st place Vail 2015 Bouldering World Cup; 5th overall 2015 Bouldering World Cup Series; 1st 2015 ADIDAS ROCKSTAR competition in Stuttgart, Germany.

PROUDEST MOMENT: 1st Vail World

Cup! Climbed 5 v12’s in 2015 and my first ever v13 in Switzerland this year.

GOALS FOR THE NEAR FUTURE:

Compete in the full 2016 World Cup Series and compete in the World Championship, climb a v14.

WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT:

I enjoy the movement and problem solving climbing offers. It also has a great community of people.

Climbing has taken me around the world and to new places I would probably have never seen.

Top: Mad Rock. Pants: Verve.

Chalk: FrictionLabs.

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RYA N SU T T ER AGE: 41 SPORT: Mountain biking TRAINING SPOT: Vail, Colorado RECENT CHAMPIONSHIPS/TITLES:

None. That’s not why I do it.

PROUDEST MOMENT: Finishing the

Leadville 100 with a personal record after crashing at 60 miles in and tearing my rotator cuff (surgery required).

GOALS: Complete Mountain Games

Ultimate Mountain Challenge and the Leadman series.

WHY YOU LOVE YOUR SPORT: Because

it provides a necessary connection to nature and the benefits associated with the realization that I am a small part of a very large existence.

Bike: LOV Bikes. Helmet: Rudy Project.

Jersey and socks: Yeti.

Shoes: Specialized. Shorts: Oakley.

GPS: Garmin Fenix 3 watch.

Beauty and grooming by Christina Robledo.

For more information about the GoPro Mountain Games, visit www.mountaingames.com.

MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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AT HOME

REFINED SOUTHWESTERN LIVING AND STYLE

Rustic Modern

Give your home some extra character with these 5 finds that only look antique

BY E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N

COURTESY OF WEST ELM

1

Table Tops

Reclaimed wood is the unofficial calling card for any rustic space. Skip the whole foraging-forlumber thing and opt for this West Elm dining table instead. Made of unfinished pine from a variety of sources, like shipping pallets and packing crates, each table is marked by unique imperfections that only add to its beauty. Emmerson Reclaimed Wood Dining Table, $899–$1,299, West Elm, westelm.com

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AT H OME

2

In Living Color

When it comes to creating a rustic space, go heavy on the neutrals, then throw in a surprising pop of color. This vintage sheep’s wool blanket, handwoven in Bolivia, is as versatile as it is unique — drape it over the back of a sofa, use it as a rug or wrap up in it on a chilly night. Vintage Andean Blanket/ Rug No. 12, $525, Spartan Shop, spartan-shop.com

Q&A

Cole Montgomery Designer, Adobe Interiors Fort Worth, Texas

An expert in the art of combining rustic and modern, Cole Montgomery offers advice on how to bring a little rustic-chic into your own home.

3

Light It Up

An antique-inspired chandelier is practically a rustic requisite.

While Mason jar lighting fixtures have become, well, a fixture in the design world, this piece made from aged wood and riveted wrought iron hardware has a slightly more subtle feel.

Billycart Chandelier, $1,060, Currey & Company, curreycodealers.com

4

5

A Dreamy Door

This isn’t your grandma’s pantry door — it just looks like it. An interior farmhouse door takes your rustic-chic look to the next level, and it’s a much more stylish way to store your dry goods. Barn Sliding Doors, price on request, La Puerta Originals, lapuertaoriginals.com

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What is your favorite design piece right now?

I love the interior sliding barn doors that we’re seeing a lot of these days.

They’re definitely making a name for themselves.

What’s the first thing you look for when shopping for rustic furniture?

A lot of rustic pieces are made from reclaimed wood, so it’s important to make sure it is made of a solid, quality wood. I like rose and mesquite — they are dense woods that create pieces that’ll last.

Seat Yourself

Don’t sacrifice style just to accommodate extra guests.

Modeled after British campaign pieces designed for the army, this foldable leather chair feels at home both in your living room and out at a tailgate. It looks so good, it may even earn a permanent spot in your home. Campaign Chair

by Moore & Giles, $1,200, Hacienda Collection, haciendacollection.com

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If your home is a bit more modern, what’s the best way to incorporate some rustic elements?

If your main pieces are more modern, focus on the accessories. Accent your rooms with accessories crafted from organic materials, like wood or metal.

What’s the best advice you like to give to someone decorating their home?

Find pieces that you love. You’re more inclined to love the space when you love what’s in it. If you decorate with pieces that are trendy, the trend will fade and you’ll be left with a room that you don’t really love.

What’s your favorite Southwestern source for rustic pieces?

The artisans that we work with who build our pieces with reclaimed materials by hand. You can’t beat handmade.

WO O DS

photography by Wendy McEahern

DE SIGN | BU IL DER S

Consistently the best Designing and building the finest homes in Santa Fe for over thirty-eight years.

302 Catron Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501

•

505.988.2413

•

MARCH/APRIL 2016 woodsbuilders.com

• DORADO

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BACK TO NATURE

A haven for anglers, this Colorado fishing retreat reflects a Texas clan’s passion for the outdoors.

Jaime Gillin enjoys the inspired living P H OTO G R A P H Y BY E M I LY M I N TO N R E D F I E L D

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D WESTERN AMERICANA

From left: The design of Table Rock Ranch was inspired by National Park Service buildings, with dark stained wood, fieldstone and a cedar shake roof; the family wanted the interiors to “feel like traditional Colorado — but they weren’t looking for an over-the-top, rusticmountain thing.”

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rive down a crunchy gravel road in central Colorado, and you’ll discover a private ranch retreat nestled in a lush valley. The surroundings are idyllic: a low-lying 750-acre property cut steeply into red rock, with a stream running through it for 3 miles. Your first clue as to the property’s purpose comes with the first building you encounter: a massive 12-sided porch in the center of the compound. Look closely and you’ll see the silhouettes of trout heads cut into the rafter tails. Welcome to Table Rock Ranch, a private family ranch dedicated primarily to fly-fishing, entertaining, and spending quality time in nature.

Like the rest of the six structures on the property — a main house, two family cabins, a barn, a bunkhouse, and a building dedicated to fly-fishing gear — the porch is built in an architectural style reminiscent of National Park Service buildings, with dark stained wood, Colorado fieldstone and a green cedar shake roof.

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It’s a “rustic, simple aesthetic,” says architect Bill Curtis of Curtis & Windham, the Houston-based firm hired to design the ranch. “We didn’t want to plunk a big whopping log house in the middle of the valley — that seemed a little ponderous.” Instead, the designers took inspiration from trout fishing and the rituals and etiquette around it to craft an architecture that feels delicate, light and refined, and sits gently on the land. “We didn’t want the buildings to have visual impact on the valley when you see them from afar,” says Curtis. “We let the valley win.”

Curtis and his team had unusually free rein on the design of the buildings — a privilege earned through a long friendship and professional relationship with his client, a Houston-based businessman whose family had made its fortune over generations in the oil and gas industry. The ranch was to be a family retreat shared by the client and his sister; the siblings also own ranches throughout Colorado and Texas, each dedicated to a different type of hunting (a white-tailed deer and quail–hunting property in rural Texas, for example). More than just a place for family to convene, the Colorado property also had to work as a business retreat, accommodating executive meetings and entertaining large groups.

It was a tricky proposition, but thanks to some clever design solutions, both the architects and the interior designers — Ashley Campbell and Gail Mahoney, a mother-and-daughter team — pulled it off. Of primary importance was “creating buildings at various scales that could tolerate many different kinds of use,” says Curtis.

To that end, the architects designed the guest cabins to be smaller and more intimate, and the interior designers furnished them with “ornate pieces with lots of attention to detail,” says Campbell, such as carved wooden beds, antique chests, and layered traditional prints and patterns.

Step into the main house, however, and you’ll find a gracious open-plan living space with soaring 20-foot ceilings hung with antler chandeliers, a tall, walk-up stone fireplace, and room to entertain upward of 30 people. Thanks to smaller, clustered arrangements of seating and residential-scale (rather than oversized) furnishings, even the 1,152-square-foot room feels cozy and welcoming, accommodating an intimate family dinner as readily as a board meeting. A separate bunkhouse, carved out of a renovated existing outbuilding that dates

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AT H OME

ROOM FOR EVERYONE

Clockwise from top left: The large kitchen features a copper range hood and tongue-andgroove walls; natural materials and warm colors add to the home’s organic feel; custom train-car style bunks in the attic above the fly-fishing tackle room easily accommodate extra guests.

from the 1940s, can sleep an additional four people, and custom train-car style bunks in the attic above the fly-fishing tackle room can accommodate even more guests. The bunk rooms are rich with fishing-inspired decor — framed trout prints, fish-patterned sheets — as if to drum up anticipation for the adventures that await outside.

When it came to the interiors throughout the property, the family “didn’t want leather and feathers,” Campbell says. As with the architecture, “they wanted the interiors to feel traditional Colorado — but they weren’t looking for an over-the-top, rustic-mountain thing.” Campbell and Mahoney twice attended High Point Market, the epic home furnishings fair, to source antiques and original artworks for the project, selecting “one-off pieces that you won’t see elsewhere, to give the interiors a unique, historic quality, as if the buildings had been furnished slowly, over time.”

The grand exhibition kitchen, set in the heart of the main building, is emblematic of the entire property’s demeanor — as well as the family’s, according to Curtis. “Instead of keeping the chef behind closed

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CUSTOM DECOR & CURATED GIFTS for the

MODERN RANCH LIFESTYLE www. haciendacollection.com

doors, this kitchen is open and inviting; it welcomes guests in. That’s how our client is — he’s generous, sharing and enjoys fellowship.” The interior designers kept the cavernous space feeling homey with a custom riveted copper range hood, whitewashed tongue-and-groove walls and painted kitchen cabinets in a warm gray. A generous black fossil granite–topped kitchen island surrounded by upholstered iron stools invites people to gather around. Here, too, you can spot subtle nods to the home’s fishing focus, such as trout-shaped cutouts in the cabinet supports. “We wanted each gesture to have integrity, not to be silly,” says Curtis.

“They’re like totems, or a subtle innuendo to the wildlife.”

At Table Rock Ranch, connecting to nature and its wildlife is much more than just a design motif — it’s a way of life. With its palette of natural materials, refined yet comfortable furnishings, and long views out across the valley any direction you look — not to mention the epic fishing on-site — the ranch buildings support the family’s mission of being comfortable in the great outdoors. “Architecture is like a guitar — it can be in tune, or it can be out of tune,” says Curtis. “When everything is dialed into a specific

Collection

place, architecture gives you a chance to better understand where you are.”

MARCH/APRIL 2016 • DORADO

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M Y DOR A DO SCHNEBLY HILL ROAD, NEAR SEDONA, ARIZONA

Last year my fiancée and I departed from Los Angeles on a 15,000-mile, three-month road trip around the U.S., and Sedona was one of our first stops. This was my first trip ever to Sedona, but I knew from family history that my great-great-uncle T.C. Schnebly came here in the early 1900s and named the town after his wife, Sedona.

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Tag your photos on social media with #MyDorado to show us what you love about the Southwest. We’ll share our favorites at doradomagazine.com.

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DORADO • MARCH/APRIL 2016

COLLIN ERIE

COLLIN ERIE, PHOTOGRAPHER

AL CRAFT BR LOC EW S

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O FORK • AD MT VE AR NT •F

HINE • FRESH NS FO U O S

#mesacitylimitless

ORER • SO XPL NO RA EE UR

You’ll hate to see the daY end, right up until the night begins.

Around the clock adventure is all around you in Mesa, Arizona.

From unsurpassed outdoor recreation to critically acclaimed dining and entertainment, there’s no time of day — or night — when you can’t have the time of your life. Plan your adventures today in a city that is truly limitless.

visitmesa.com/DTX

MESA \ GILBERT \ QUEEN CREEK \ APACHE TRAIL \ TONTO NATIONAL FOREST M AY / J U N E 2015 • DOR A D O 81

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