Dorado Magazine - May/June 2017

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DORADO The Greal–Outdoors T E L L U R I D E F E S T I VA L S

S AV I N G F R A N K L L OY D W R I G H T

P R I C K LY P E A R C O C K TA I L S

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HIKING TENT ROCKS NATIONAL MONUMENT M AY/J U N 2 0 1 7

A TEXAS GARDEN OF ORGANIC DELIGHTS FASHION AND FUN IN BIG BEND

FOR EVERY SEASON, FOREVER MEMORIES. At Victory Ranch, year-round recreation and amenities await those seeking a Park City mountain home to call their own. It is a place for your family to escape the everyday, and where great moments in the great outdoors become memories to treasure for a lifetime.

Come summertime, our Rees Jones Golf Course challenges your game while a 4,000acre backcountry offers miles of mountain biking trails, yurt camping and 5-stand shooting. Hit the legendary slopes of Park City and Deer Valley in the winter or fly fish along the Upper Provo year-round.

Experience the Good Life in

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

6,700 Pristine Acres Near the Legendary Ski Resorts of Deer Valley and Park City • 18-Hole Rees Jones Golf Course • The Post Clubhouse & Pool • The Barn Activity Clubhouse & Spa • Ski-in/Ski-out Park City Clubhouse • World-class Fly Fishing • Freestone Lodge Riverside Dining • 20 Miles of Hiking and Mountain Biking Trails • 5-Stand Shooting • 4x4 ATV Adventures • Jordanelle Water Sports • Backcountry Yurts

Homesites from $475,000, Cabin Homes from $1,695,000 Call 435.785.5000 Find yourself at VictoryRanchUtah.com 2

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Victory Ranch does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status, or national origin. Read the property report for Victory Ranch before signing anything. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of property in Victory Ranch. Access to golf and other amenities is restricted to Victory Ranch Club members and subject to applicable membership fees and other limitations. Each office is independently owned and operated.

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MOUNTAIN THRILLS. TOWN CHARM.

Charming Mountain Town. By a Lake. Surrounded by Hiking and Biking Trails.

In Love with Outdoor Concerts and Festivals.

TownofFrisco.com 2 D O R A D O • M AY / J U N E 2 0 1 7

TAKING LUXURY TO

NEW HEIGHTS From the spacious rooms with panoramic mountain views to the rooftop pool and 7,000 square-foot ara spa, the amenities at Ameristar Casino, Resort & Spa in Black Hawk are on another level.

Use offer code DORADO to receive 10% off and a $10 resort credit for your Sunday – Thursday night hotel stay now thru September when booking at Ameristar.com/Black-Hawk or by calling 720.946.4000. Restrictions apply.

111 RICHMAN ST BLACK HAWK, CO 80422 | AMERISTAR.COM Must be at least 21 to enter the casino. See mychoice® Center for details. Gambling Problem? Call 1-800-522-4700. ©2017 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All rights reserved.

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D O R A D O • M AY / J U N E 2 0 1 7

Estes Park has endless opportunities for exploration and relaxation. From outdoor adventures and awe-inspiring wildlife, to craft distilleries and breweries, there’s fun for absolutely everyone at the base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park.

Find all the adventures that await you at VisitEstesPark.com M AY / J U N E 2 0 1 7 • D O R A D O

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TABLE of CONTEN TS 44

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FEATURES Cast a Spell Fly-fishing wasn’t one daughter’s idea of a thrilling adventure sport, but an excursion to Colorado’s Taylor River awakened a deeper connection to nature — and her dad.

by Jen Murphy

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A Bounty of Beauty

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In Texas’ Blackland Prairie country, gardeners and food lovers can learn the secrets of organic farming and the glories of field-totable cooking.

by Susan L. Ebert

on t h e c ove r : Big Bend National Park, Texas • Photograph by Sinuhe Xavier

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Wanderlust At Big Bend National Park, a stylish overland adventure calls for a carefree attitude and Southwestern sensibility. photography by Sinuhe Xavier

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ELEVEN EXPERIENCE; SINUHE X AVIER; W YNN MYERS

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DEPARTMENTS ADVENTURE

30 Rock of Ages

Hiking Tent Rocks National Monument, an aunt cracks the hard city shell of two teenagers.

CULTURE

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM

41 A Texan, Today

Life in the Lone Star State is about big dreams and an appreciation for a rich, diverse heritage.

AT HOME

36 Telluride’s 71 A Wright Summer Festivus Renaissance From bluegrass to beer, there’s no better fare from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

PA N O R A M A

PEOPLE

A mother and son save a Frank Lloyd Wright family gem in Phoenix.

Plus: Geometric shapes

A SNA P SHOT OF T HE SOU T HWEST ’ S EV ENTS, C U LT U R E & P E O P L E CRAFT

17 Rooted in the tradition of durable denim, a Colorado designer is handcrafting jeans the old-fashioned way.

GEAR

20 There’s nothing quite

like cookout season. Up your grilling game with these BBQ essentials.

NATURE

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22 A farming couple in

DORADO

An Albuquerque mural painter draws inspiration from the history of New Mexico’s Pueblo societies and European settlers.

Colorado enjoys the sweet smell of floral success.

14 Masthead • 15 Contributors

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DRINKS

24 Bartenders across the

Southwest are using the prickly pear for fun, colorful cocktails well beyond the marg.

PROFILE

26 At 26 years old, Bex

Damman became the youngest person in U.S. history to own a dude ranch. Today, guests are enjoying her beautiful Western oasis.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STEPHEN SMITH; WILLOW ARLEN; DOUGL AS MERRIAM; DAVID & GL ADYS WRIGHT HOUSE FOUNDATION; VANESSA JACKMAN/VAULT ARCHIVES/REDUX; MERRICK CHASE

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J OU RN E Y F R FRO M BECOMIN G TH E P ERSON HE PE RSON WHO WHO TE L LS OT HE R ELLS H ER P EO P L E ’S STORIES. Write your own in a place so far off the beaten path, it spans as many centuries as it does miles. At Hotel Chaco, you’ll cross paths with the soul of an ancient civilization while unwinding in modern luxury and discover so much more than a mere change of scenery. You'll meet the part of yourself you’ve been searching for.

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C H E C K T H E L AT E S T I S S U E O F D O R A D O , A N D E N T E R T O W I N FA N TA S T I C P R I Z E S :

GRAND PRIZE: Enjoy THE SANTA FE OPERA on August 14 Two tickets to Lucia di Lammermoor One night accommodation at the Four Seasons Two preview buffet dinners prior to the performance Free shuttle to and from the Opera Backstage tour for two at The Santa Fe Opera Pelican 20 qt cooler Pelican 18 oz and 32 oz bottles Yearlong subscription to Dorado magazine

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D O R A D O • M AY C / JA UN 1 7A K E I T O N J U L Y 8 ? V I S I T D O R A D O M A G A Z I N E . C O M / O P E R A T O E N T E R !

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E D I TO R I A L

Editor in Chief

Jeff Ficker Creative Director

Caroline Jackson Crafton Design Director

Marc Oxborrow Associate Editor/Digital Editor

Ellen Ranta Olson Online Design

Aaron Heirtzler editorial inquiries: editor@doradomagazine.com P R O D U CT I O N

Senior Design Manager

Todd Bartz Vice President of Enterprise Marketing

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Aani Parrish production inquiries: customerservice@doradomagazine.com ADVERTISING

Publisher

Chad Rose chadr@bcimedia.com Account Executives

Theresa Monaco tmonaco@bcimedia.com

Lauren Reidy-Phelan laurenrp@bcimedia.com

Katy Walker kwalker@bcimedia.com Marketing & Audience Development Manager

Brittany Cupp Chief Executive Officer

Douglas Bennett Vice President of Finance and Operations

Bob Ganley To subscribe to Dorado magazine, visit doradomagazine.com.

Dorado magazine is published by Ballantine Communications.

Creative services provided by Casual Astronaut (casualastronaut.com).

Dorado magazine will not assume any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. © 2017 Ballantine Communications, Inc. All rights reserved.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Wynn Myers (A Bounty of Beauty, page 50) searches for authentic moments in photography and loves to capture the beauty and joy in the everyday. She has shot for Food & Wine, Texas Monthly and The Atlantic. In her free time, you will find her hanging out with her husband, browsing vintage shops and spending time outdoors with her dogs.

Stephanie Pearson (Rock of Ages, page 30) migrated to Santa Fe in 1995 after falling in love with skiing at Taos, green-chile and bacon breakfast burritos, and the Southwest’s endless sky. She is a contributing editor to Outside magazine and has also written for National Geographic Traveler, Men’s Journal and Wired, among other national publications.

FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST

FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST

Zapata Ranch, Colorado “The great sand dunes are a quick car ride away. You can hike up to the top of the dunes for an amazing view and then take a dip in the cold water at the base of the dunes.”

Taos Ski Valley, New Mexico “There are three reasons to love Taos: The runs are steep, the snow is most often deep and the sun is almost always shining.”

Writer Susan L. Ebert (A Bounty of Beauty, page 52) has served on the staffs of Texas Monthly, Organic Gardening, and Texas Parks & Wildlife magazines.

She’s a lifelong hunter, angler, forager, organic gardener and cook, and she lists wing shooting, fly-fishing, kayaking and foraging among her favorite endeavors.

In The Field to Table Cookbook, she brings together all of her pursuits in a seasonal guide studded with essays, photography and recipes.

Sinuhe Xavier (Wanderlust, page 60) began his photography career in front of the lens as a professional ski mountaineer for The North Face in Montana, where he worked with National Geographic photographer Gordon Wiltse. Today, the awardwinning director and photographer’s work has been published in magazines ranging from National Geographic Adventure to Autoweek, and he has shot for J.Crew, Land Rover and Jeep.

FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST

FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST

Big Bend Ranch State Park, Texas “Oft-overlooked by those visiting Big Bend National Park, this isolated treasure of a state park encompasses more than 300,000 acres spanning two counties, holds rich biodiversity, and features the spectacular Madrid Falls.”

Bears Ears National Monument, Utah “There’s a place where the river goes around a bend on the Colorado Plateau and the red rock reaches for the sky. It’s two hours down a dirt road, and you’d be hard pressed to find anyone else there.”

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PANORAMA A S N A P S H O T O F T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S E V E N T S , C U LT U R E & P E O P L E

CRAFT

Blue Blood Rooted in the Western tradition of functional, durable denim, a Colorado designer is handcrafting jeans the old-fashioned way B Y E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN SMITH

PLUS:

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| Gear

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| Nature

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| Drinks

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| Profile

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PANORAMA

Ryan Martin is the first to admit that he has a terrible business model. As the sole owner, operator, designer and producer behind Berthoud, Coloradobased W.H. Ranch Dungarees, his made-to-order denim comes with a bit of a wait.

“It can take up to a year to get your jeans from me,” he says. “I make each pair myself and even drop them in the

But these aren’t the overly embellished high-end jeans of the early 2000s — they harken back to a time when denim was more utilitarian than fashion-forward. mailbox myself, which means I can only produce about 200 pairs every year.”

Martin’s method isn’t necessarily one of madness, though — it’s just how he thinks jeans should be made.

A sixth-generation professional sewer originally from Salina, Kansas (first home of Lee jeans), Martin seemed almost predetermined to be the creator of denimwear. But these aren’t the overly embellished high-end jeans that had their moment in the early 2000s — Martin’s work harks back to a time when denim was more utilitarian than fashion-forward.

“I’ve been really heavily influenced by the Lee aesthetic. While Levi’s were made for the miners and Wrangler’s for the rodeo, Lee achieved a greater crossover and were worn by James Dean and cowboys alike,” Martin says. “The back pockets were set farther apart for more comfort in the saddle, they had a deeper Western yoke, a neat pocket shape and a pair of X-formation bar

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Sixth-generation sewer Ryan Martin makes each pair of W.H. Ranch jeans with his own two hands.

tacks in the place of rivets, which seems now just like a cool aesthetic choice, but was created to avoid scratching a leather saddle.”

It’s this kind of detailed denim knowledge that sets Martin and his work apart — and gives him the leeway to charge up to $700 for a pair of W.H. Ranch jeans.

“My poor business model is also why people are willing to pay that kind of money. They know I am making each pair with my own two hands,” he says. “I kind of equate it to the great

boot-makers of the West, in that it is a generational trend that’s been passed down, and that is part of what people are paying for — the history and the knowledge, plus a bit of a romantic notion that I’m replicating the jeans that our grandfathers bought at the feed store.”

TRUE BLUES

Visit doradomagazine.com/denim to shop our favorite Southwestern denim.

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PANORAMA

GEAR

The Backyard Barbecue There’s nothing quite like cookout season in the Southwest.

Up your grilling game with these entertaining essentials

Pull Up a Bench

K ITS C H Y CU TE

Inject a little cowboy culture into your cookout with Thomas Paul’s bandana-inspired Ranchero melamine dinner plates. They are practically indestructible, just like John Wayne. $48 (set of four), thomaspaulmelamine.com

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The Lollygagger picnic table is green in more ways than one.

It’s made of 100 percent recycled plastic, making it durable no matter the weather, season — or guest list. $844, lolldesigns.com

Leather and Lights

The Marstrand candle lantern makes a simply elegant centerpiece thanks to the leather frame and handle, which add a dash of understated Southwestern flair. $190, shophorne.com

THIS PAGE, TOP: LISA ROMEREIN / AUGUST IMAGE

BY COLLEEN RINGER

Now Boarding

Give your cheeses a pretty perch with the hand-carved Bartram serving board.

Choose from either black walnut or cherry. $106, shophorne.com

Pretty, Tough

Crafted from high-grade steel and coated with porcelain enamel, these cute stacking cups can withstand the wildest of backyard parties. $40 (set of two), food52.com

HAUT E POT

Your famous chili will garner extra respect when it’s served in this 12-inch castiron crock. And side handles for the win! $100, barebonesliving.com

Look the Part

Who’s the Boss?

This waxed denim apron fastens in a flash thanks to the snap hook. Bonus: The utility ring makes it easy to keep a hand towel (or tongs) close by. $235, hardmill.com

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What can’t the Ranch Boss do?

You can use it as a grill, a smoker, a fire pit or even a really large soup pot. $2,995, cowboycauldron.com

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PANORAMA

N AT U R E

The Farmer Florists When a California couple arrived in Colorado to pursue their farming dreams, they didn’t foresee their success would smell so sweet

BY JEN MURPHY

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eople want their jeans to be made in America and their food to be local and organic, but what about their flowers?

“Walk into any grocery store or flower shop in the U.S. and 80 percent of the flowers are grown outside of the country,” says Don Lareau, co-owner of Zephyros Farm and Garden

in Paonia, a hidden gem of a town on Colorado’s Western Slope. “You have no idea if they are covered in pesticides, but people don’t think twice about putting them to their face.” Lareau and his wife, Daphne Yannakakis, are crusaders in the local flower movement. Their certified organic, 35-acre farm grows over 1,000 varieties of woody and herbaceous perennials, annuals and bulbs.

When the couple moved from California nearly 15 years ago, they ambitiously raised chickens, goats and sheep, and planted dozens of varieties of vegetables. Yannakakis, who has a background in horticulture, also insisted they plant flowers.

When their cut flowers started to sell out at the Telluride Farmers Market they knew they’d found their niche. “Everyone was selling bright, showy annuals, like zinnias and snapdragons, but we were the only ones mixing in perennials, which are my specialty,” Yannakakis says.

The couple eventually sold their animals, scaled back their heirloom vegetables and amped up their flower farming. Today, Zephyros Garden and Farm grows nearly every flower you can imagine, from globe thistles and peonies, to nearly 100 varieties of dahlia, Yannakasis’ favorite flower. Last spring, the couple launched Studio Z, a floral design business.

Yanakasis cultivated her passion for flowers while working at a fourth-generation perennial nursery in Germany. “In Europe, fresh cut flowers are for sale on every street corner. It’s normal in their culture to buy yourself flowers, just to have them on your dining table,” she says.

“I see customers struggle to spend money on a bouquet, but they don’t think twice about their daily $5 latte from Starbucks.” Yannakakis and Lareaeu believe the best way to get people to care about flowers is to get more people buying flowers. In addition to a traditional CSA, the farm offers a flower CSA, and members receive a fresh, seasonal bouquet every week of their membership. “Filling your house with flowers is such a nice way to bring yourself joy,” Lareau says.

“The biggest barrier to a gorgeous floral arrangement is striving for perfection,” says Daphne Yannakakis.

“The best results happen when you let yourself have fun and play with the flowers.”

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lay with similar colors, P mixing tone on tone, light to dark.

2

reenery is underrated.

G Cascading vines feel dramatic and wild.

3

ize your flowers S to the appropriate container.

4

on’t cram your D flowers together.

Leave a little space.

DAPHNE YANNAK AKIS (2)

FLOWER POWER: TIPS FROM THE PROS

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PANORAMA

DRINKS

Spiked and Spirited It’s hard to deny the appeal of the prickly-pear margarita. But bartenders aren’t stopping there, using the cactus fruit for fun, colorful drinks well beyond the marg

BY KARA NEWMAN

W

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mixers to round out cocktails. San Pellegrino even makes a prickly pear-and-orange soda.

The fruit is also infused in some spirits, such as Western Son South Texas Prickly Pear Vodka and Canyon Diablo’s Sonoran Rose Prickly Pear Flavored Vodka. (In addition, it’s worth noting that some spirits, such as Texas Prickly Pear Cactus Moonshine and Spike Vodka, are distilled from the prickly pear cactus pads — not the fruit — and don’t have the same sweet-tart flavor.)

Beyond the bright hue and tantalizing sweetness, these drinks hold an additional allure: After all, what could be more Southwestern than drinking a cactus fruit?

With a flavor described as a cross between pomegranate and raspberry, prickly pear has become the taste du jour for Southwestern bartenders.

WILLOW ARLEN (2)

ithout doubt, the prickly pear is having a cocktail moment. The vibrantly pink-hued fruit is produced by the nopales cactus (which also produces edible pads, long eaten by Native people). Get past those prickly little spikes, and the reward is a rosy fruit that yields plenty of sweet, bright magenta juice, making it a favorite for mixing into cocktails.

For example, at Fitz Bar in Vail, Colorado, the fruit is muddled and shaken with smoky mezcal.

While at Windsor in Phoenix, a prickly-pear mixer is added to local whiskey and egg white for a sophisticated craft cocktail approach.

Sometimes it doesn’t even need booze: The Watershed in Bryan, Texas, offers an appealing mocktail with housemade prickly-pear syrup and club soda, garnished with a sprig of lavender.

Harvesting the fruit and extracting its juice is a bit of a project — many pros recommend handling the spiky fruit with gloves and tongs, boiling the pears and then straining the pulp carefully to remove all spikes and seeds. But the reward is a succulent sip, with a flavor described as a cross between pomegranate and raspberry.

Of course, for those not brazen enough to pick a peck of prickly pears, there are plenty of commercial prickly-pear purées, syrups and cocktail

Rose-Colored Glasses Smoked Prickly Pear Cocktail This simplified version of The Fitz Bar & Restaurant’s amazingly smokysweet cocktail employs prickly pear to its widest advantage and toasts the tingle-mingle of mezcal and flavored sparkling water.

INGREDIENTS

1 slice prickly pear 1 lemon wheel 1 ½ oz. Ilegal Mezcal

½ oz. St-Germain elderflower liqueur

Splash of San Pellegrino prickly pear-andorange soda

PREPARATION

Muddle the prickly pear and lemon in the bottom of a mixing tin. Add the mezcal, St-Germain and ice. Shake well. Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube. Top up with San Pellegrino soda. Garnish with slice of fresh prickly pear, speared on a cocktail pick.

No. 20 Created by Windsor lead bartender Manny Peña just for Arizona Cocktail Week, this drink is still assigned a number like all the cocktails on the Phoenix bar’s regular menu. It showcases Del Bac whiskey from Tucson and a prickly-pear “sour” mixer made by Arizona’s own Iconic Cocktail Co.

SMALL BATCH BOOTS

INGREDIENTS

1 egg white 1 oz. lemon juice 1 ½ oz. Del Bac Classic Whiskey

1 ½ oz. Iconic Prickly Pear Sour 1 barspoon Luxardo Maraschino

2 dashes Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters 1 piece lemon peel Creme de mure liqueur

PREPARATION

Add egg white and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker (no ice) and shake well. Add whiskey, prickly pear sour, Luxardo, bitters and ice to the shaker. Shake well. Fine-strain into a coupe glass. Twist the lemon peel over the glass to spritz the oils on top of the drink. Wipe the rim of the glass with the peel. Using an eyedropper, place 3 drops of creme de mure on top of the egg white foam. Run a toothpick through the drops to create a streak or other design.

ONLINE PURVEYOR OF MEN'S AND WOMEN'S HANDCRAFTED BOOTS. Ranch Road Boots was started out of love—for freedom, West Texas and a hell-bent determination to craſt good-looking, well-made footwear.

THINK (AND DRINK) PINK

Learn how to make your own prickly pear syrup and The Watershed’s Smooth Pear mocktail at doradomagazine/pricklypear.

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PANORAMA PROFILE

A New Life for an Old Soul Three years ago, 26-year-old Bex Damman became the youngest person in U.S. history to own and run a dude ranch. Today, guests are enjoying her beautiful Western oasis and its romantic throwback vibe

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ecky “Bex” Damman is up with the sun. You’ll never catch sight of the steady wrangler and owner of northern Colorado’s Elk River Guest Ranch without leather chinks and boots. Before she steps into the crisp mountain air to set fence posts or lift a manure fork, she starts her day with two eggs over medium, plus sausage or bacon, toast, and a cup of coffee next to the wood-burning stove.

As a rancher, “you feel full of adventure. The most gratifying part is connecting and sharing those exhilarating moments of exploration with people,” says the Tennessee native with a still-intact smooth Southern drawl.

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Daydreams about being a ranch hand in the Rockies first entered her mind at age 8, when her family first visited Powderhorn Guest Ranch outside of Gunnison, Colorado. Four years passed, they returned and she was hooked. After her freshman year at college, Damman returned to Powderhorn — this time as a wrangler.

Over the next decade, she would sharpen her skills while working at Rainbow Trout Ranch and then lease Tarryall River Ranch to test When she first the management waters before “putting visited, Damman skin in the game” as an owner. Two years fell in love with flew by, and at 26 years old, she bought the charmingly Elk River in 2014, becoming the youngdecrepit state est person ever to own a Western dude ranch. of the 1902 Elk River has been an oasis for Damman, homestead. who fell in love with the purple larkspur wildflowers, the vast aspen groves to the south and the charmingly decrepit state of the 1902 homestead when she first visited. “The ranch was perfect, because it was a place that could be shown a lot of love. I’m a taskmaster and live to work with my hands,” Damman says.

Today, the intimate 38-acre farmstead is capped at 15 guests, scattered between the four renovated cabins tucked cozily between two mountainsides. But it’s Damman’s cowgirl ethos — warm heart, calloused hands — that is central to why dude ranch guests return to experience the transformational Western lifestyle, from riding horses to porch sitting or hiking trails. Here, “people reconnect with themselves, their family and nature,” she says. “Once they’re in a different place mentally, their lives change.”

COURTESY OF BEX DAMMAN

Becky “Bex” Damman runs Elk River Guest Ranch, a 38-acre oasis for city slickers in search of Western traditions and glorious mountain views.

B Y M O R G A N T I LT O N

SPECIAL SECTION

NOTABLE HOTELS AND RESORTS From poolside cabanas to a working organic farm, here’s where to stay as you explore the splendor of the Southwest

THE CANYON SUITES AT THE PHOENICIAN Following a three-month refurbishment, The Canyon Suites at The Phoenician, a Luxury Collection Resort, has re-opened its doors to a new luxury in style and experience. Now featuring a more contemporary, residential design complemented by enhanced service and curated offerings, The Canyon Suites at The Phoenician honors both its guests and its Sonoran Desert surroundings. Outdoors, the private infinity Canyon Pool features a new Pebble Tec surface, while adjacent cabanas have been revamped with new artwork and furnishings. theluxurycollection.com/phoenician

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SPECIAL SECTION

4UR RANCH

STRATER HOTEL The historic Strater Hotel, built in 1887, is a downtown Durango, Colorado, landmark located two blocks from the Durango Train and just one hour east of Mesa Verde National Park. Guests experience the Old West while just steps away from dining, shopping, and various outdoor activities in the San Juan Mountains, including hiking, skiing, biking and rafting. On site amenities include the Henry Strater Theatre, Diamond Belle Saloon, Mahogany Grille, Strater Catering and Events, and The Office Spiritorium. Available amenities include: elevators, group rates, ample and easy tour bus parking, breakfast options, and history tours. Event planning is available. strater.com

Do you find the thought of wetting a line somewhere along six miles of private tailwater appealing? Then come to Colorado’s 4UR Ranch, one of the finest fly fishing resorts in the Rocky Mountains. Once there, from the banks of the trout streams, you can immerse yourself in the beautiful San Juan Mountains, explore the high country forests from the back of a horse, or hike along magnificent trails with experienced guides. At the end of the day, take a long soak in the natural hot springs, then sit down for a dinner featuring locally sourced cuisine prepared by a Cordon Bleu chef. Whether you’re looking for days filled with outdoor activity or just putting your feet up and relaxing, the 4UR Ranch is waiting for you. 4urranch.com

FAIRMONT HERITAGE PLACE, FRANZ KLAMMER LODGE The Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge offers a residential experience with a personal and dedicated staff and the amenities of a luxury hotel. Located at the base of Telluride Ski Resort, the property offers spacious two- and three-bedroom residences. Each beautifully appointed residence offers a fully equipped kitchen, living and dining area, washer and dryer, oversized bathrooms and a private balcony. Lodge amenities include complimentary transportation to and from Montrose and Telluride airports, complimentary valet parking, 24-hour fitness center, indoor/outdoor pool, game room, business center and our private Himmel Spa. The attentive and enthusiastic staff allows you to enjoy the comfort of a home away from home without the hassles of daily life. In this luxurious sanctuary, you’re sure to have the memorable vacation experience you’d expect from Fairmont. fairmont.com/klammer-lodge-telluride

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THE STANLEY Famous for its old world charm, The Stanley Hotel boasts spectacular views in every direction and is less than six miles away from Rocky Mountain National Park.

Multiple renovations have restored this 140-guest room hotel to its original grandeur. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places and a member of Historic Hotels of America, The Stanley offers more than 14,000 square feet of unique meeting and event space equipped with modern day amenities. The hotel also features the brand-new, 40-room Aspire Residences, Estes Park’s most upscale lodging establishment paired with an array of outdoor activities and adventures. stanleyhotel.com

Elizabeth Wells Photography

SPECIAL SECTION

AMERISTAR BLACK HAWK Located in the Rocky Mountains, a short 40 miles west of Denver, Ameristar Casino Resort Spa Black Hawk offers an exceptional gaming and entertainment experience in the Denver metropolitan area. The property features a 71,500-square-foot casino, a luxury full-service hotel with 536 well-appointed rooms, including 64 luxurious suites, a rooftop pool, fitness center, five dining and entertainment venues, a full-service luxury day spa, 15,000-square-feet of meeting and event space, and a large parking garage. ameristar.com/black-hawk

LOS POBLANOS HISTORIC INN & FARM Designed in 1932 by the region’s foremost architect, John Gaw Meem, Los Poblanos is one of the most magnificent historic properties in the Southwest. Set among 25 acres of organic lavender fields, towering cottonwood trees and lush formal gardens, it is the ideal setting for a secluded getaway, work retreat or special event.

The property boasts 50 guest rooms, a working organic farm, field-to-fork dining and a thoughtfully curated on-site retail space. The natural beauty, comfort and privacy of Los Poblanos offer guests a unique and relaxing environment that is truly New Mexico. lospoblanos.com

LA FONDA ON THE PLAZA

La Fonda on the Plaza is the top choice in Santa Fe luxury hotels, featuring vibrant décor and genuine New Mexican architecture that provides guests with an authentic experience, complemented by 4-Diamond distinctive services. Each of the 180 rooms and suites are beautifully restored to their original grandeur with hand-crafted furniture and original artwork. La Fonda, which recently received the 2016 Historic Hotels of America award for Best Historic Hotel (76200 rooms), is the only Santa Fe hotel situated on the historic Plaza, sitting on a coveted location that is said to have hosted an inn since the 1600’s. Just step outside our doors and you will find everything that is Santa Fe. lafondasantafe.com

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ADVENTURE

ROCK OF AGES How does an outdoors-loving aunt crack the hard city shell of two teenagers? Stephanie Pearson lets Mother Nature do the talking

THIS PAGE: DOUGL AS MERRIAM; OPPOSITE, STEPHANIE PEARSON

at New Mexico’s Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

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FAMILY FUN

Sieanna and Devon explore the pink-and-beige canyons and formations of Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument in northern New Mexico.

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have an addiction to the outdoors, so say my Albuquerque, Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks is otherniece and nephew. In my humble opinion, worldly. Pink-and-beige ash spires rise 90 feet high, they have an addiction to video games. There’s deposited between 6 and 7 million years ago by a no better place for our obsessions to merge cataclysmic eruption in what are now the Jemez than at New Mexico’s Kasha-Katuwe Tent Mountains. Over centuries, wind and water have Rocks National Monument, a surreal 4,645shaped the spires into cylindrical cones, some of acre playground of volcanic geology that which are topped by boulders that look as if one poke can still blow the mind of two occasionally could cause them to topple over and wreak havoc in sardonic teenagers who think they’ve seen it all — if the canyon maze below, like an oversized, out-of-cononly on a video screen. trol pinball. Hike the steep trail to 6,760 feet and the “Excuse me, excuse me … excuuuuuse me,” my Rio Grande Valley unfolds in a 360-degree pannephew Devon pleads as he darts past a young couorama. If this were a normal weekend day, humans ple on a selfie binge. The amorous teens stop every would be scarce, but this is a bluebird spring break few seconds to pose against the conical hoodoos Sunday, and the trail is packed with families who had as the dusty trail begins the slow 600-foot climb. the same idea I did.

Hikers jam in the narrow canyon, but I can appre“Hurry up!” Devon commands to his 17-year-old ciate the kids’ desire to capture this wild landscape sister, Sieanna, as he grabs her by the hand. The on camera. I’m also amused to see how Devon, a two siblings love to bicker, but they are also fiercely slender natural athlete who lives more in his head protective of each other. Having spent most of their than in his body, is charging ahead, his lives in the most dense urban blocks of TIPPING POINT cool 13-year-old façade unhinged by Minneapolis and Houston, they havAt Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks, the joy of moving. en’t had an opportunity to experience centuries of wind and water have shaped 90-foot-tall ash spires into Sitting at 5,570 feet on the Pajarito the outdoors beyond a city park, which cylindrical cones — some of which are Plateau between Santa Fe and is why I urged their dad to let them precariously topped by boulders.

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STEPHANIE PEARSON

can be overwhelming, from the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range to the piñon and juniper forests of the Gila wilderness to the caves of Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

That’s why Kasha-Katuwe is an ideal starter expedition: Here there are only two trails, the longest of which is 3.5 miles round trip and ascends 630 feet to the top of the white cliffs — making it not too long, not too high, and almost impossible to get lost. But this isn’t Disneyland either. There are no fences to keep preoccupied teens from a free-fall, there is no drinking water available, and rattlesnakes and coyotes live here.

Sieanna, Devon and I are about eight centuries removed from the first known visitors to Kasha-Katuwe.

Cochiti Pueblo, one of the eight northern New Mexico pueblos, is adjacent to the monument. To access the park from Interstate 25, one has to drive 5 miles through Cochiti land. Cochiti’s ancestors have been in this valley since the 14th century. The name, KashaKatuwe, means “white cliffs” in the Pueblos' traditional Keresan language.

I feel it’s a privilege for us to be here, and I want Sieanna and Devon to understand, that like so many places in New Mexico, this ground is sacred.

Fortunately, the view from the top conveys that message better than I can.

“What beauty!” Devon exclaims, drenched in sweat.

His sister, trying to catch her Like so many places in New Mexico, this breath, is less demonstrative but equally exhilarated by the expanse and beaming with her accomground is sacred. Fortunately, the view from the plishment. To the southeast is the unmistakable hulk of Albuquerque’s Sandia Peak. To the northtop conveys that message better than I can. east, the still-white spine of the southern Sangre de Cristo mountains rises toward the sky. To the west, spend spring break in New Mexico. Sieanna, a smart charred tree skeletons serve as a reminder that introvert who doesn’t care much for physical activity, natural forces are always in play. In 2011, the Las especially treads with caution and stops to catch Conchas fire burned more than 150,000 acres. The her breath for 20 minutes under the vanilla-scented apocalyptic plumes of smoke threatened to engulf shade of a towering ponderosa pine growing along Cochiti Pueblo. the narrow path. It has a network of roots so large Between the geology, history and forces of and exposed that we can walk through them. My natnature, there are plenty of facts I could pass on to ural tendency when hiking is to charge ahead, and the kids, but I can’t remember any of them, which I have to check my impulse to hurry the kids along makes me feel like a bit of a failure as their guide. as they stop to explore every cactus and divergent Then again, nothing I can say matches the power crack of the 3-foot-wide passageway of the view. As we hike down the trail I ROCKY ROAD that winds through 30-foot-high canyon slow my pace for once, letting the kids There are only two trails at walls the texture of sandpaper. lead the way, grateful that this magical Kasha-Katuwe, the longest of which is 3.5 miles round trip As anyone who has spent time in New cluster of rocks can crack the hard shell and ascends 630 feet to the top Mexico knows, the space in this state of a teenage soul. of the white, sculptural cliffs.

JOLT. YOUR. JOURNEY.

The Bisti/De-na-zin Wilderness

FarmingtonNM.org

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CULTURE

TEL LUR IDE’S SUMMER FE STI V US From blues and bluegrass to beer and wine, there’s no better place to be from Memorial Day to Labor Day than Telluride. Kate Siber revels in the Colorado mountain town’s culture-packed festival season

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luegrass guitarist John Cowan croons into a microphone on a cool, sun-washed June day in Telluride, Colorado. The bluesy rhythm of drums, guitars and fiddles, slow and sweet as molasses, settles over a crowd of swaying people. Leatherfaced cowboys, graying hippies with long braids and skirts, and college students in trucker hats undulate like grasses in a sea of blankets. Behind the stage, mountains carpeted with pine and aspen rise into a sky dotted with billowing clouds.

“I wish I were so far away …” croons Cowan, sturdy and sandy-haired, eyes half-closed. It’s a haunting, soul-catching tune, and yet I disagree: There’s nowhere else I’d rather be. This is Telluride Bluegrass, one of the Southwest’s most beloved and longest-running music festivals.

Telluride, once a humble mining town, has built a reputation as one of Colorado’s top ski resorts.

But the tony Victorian hamlet commands an even

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BENKO PHOTOS; MERRICK CHASE; MARC SHAPIRO. OPPOSITE: TELLURIDE BLUES & BREWS

broader appeal in summer, when it hosts a festival — sometimes two — every weekend but one between May and September. The most famous fests center around music — blues, bluegrass, jazz, classical — and take over Town Park on the outskirts of downtown. Other themes range from plein-air painting to ballooning, yoga, film, architecture and cars. Each celebration brings a different cast of devotees, but they’re all here at least in part for the same thing: to enjoy what they love in a setting that lifts the spirit and blows the mind.

Tucked in a precipitous box canyon at nearly 9,000 feet, Telluride’s summer is brief and precious, which is why festivals have an air of almost feverish delight. After a long mud-season slumber, the town awakens around Memorial Day, when shopkeepers dust their shelves and flowers peek up in front of dollhouse Victorians. As snowmelt emboldens the waterfalls, the sounds of moving water echo through the canyon.

Mountainfilm, a four-day festival with a lofty tagline — “celebrating indomitable spirit” — has kicked off spring in Telluride for 38 years. The

event’s 75 or so movies showcase mountains and the people who love them, as well as social and environmental issues. Young filmmakers, professional athletes, best-selling authors and movie buffs brighten the streets in their candy-hued down and Gore-Tex jackets. Steaming coffee mugs in hand, they swap stories about the latest film in front of a tableau of melting mountains, all without a whiff of pretention. Perhaps it’s the big-hearted films or the freshness of spring, but a contagious optimism suffuses this early fest.

Bluegrass is June’s biggest attraction, luring the largest crowds of the summer. By July, wildflowers plaster the meadows in pink, red, yellow and white and the aspens shimmer with their crowns of trembling silver dollars. The Ride Festival, with artists like Beck and Ben Harper, makes way for yogis taking over the streets for Telluride Yoga Festival, the oldest event of its kind in the country. Practitioners in tights and jewel-tone tops clutch yoga mats and cups of tea as they walk between classes, guided hikes, and meditation sessions. Some perform downward

HIGH (ALTITUDE) CULTURE

Once the snow melts in Telluride, the ski town transforms into Colorado’s festival capital, attracting locals and visitors with events celebrating culture, from music to mushrooms.

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FILM ALFRESCO

Telluride’s festival allure: balmy summer weather and spectacular mountain views.

2017 Telluride Festivals Telluride Mountainfilm May 26–29 MOUNTAINFILM.ORG

Telluride Bluegrass June 15-18 BLUEGRASS.COM/TELLURIDE

Telluride Wine Festival June 22–25 TELLURIDEWINEFESTIVAL.COM

Telluride Plein Air June 28–July 4 Ride Festival July 8–9 RIDEFESTIVAL.COM

Telluride Yoga Festival July 20–23 TELLURIDEYOGAFESTIVAL.COM

Telluride Jazz Festival Aug. 4–6 TELLURIDEJAZZ.ORG

Telluride Mushroom Festival Aug. 17-20 TELLURIDEMUSHROOMFEST.ORG

Telluride Film Festival Sept. 1–4 TELLURIDEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG

Telluride Blues & Brews Festival Sept. 15–17 TELLURIDEBLUES.COM

Telluride Festival of Cars & Colors Sept. 21-24 CARSANDCOLORS.COM

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dogs alfresco on paddleboards, slack lines, and mats spread out in high meadows.

In late summer, afternoon thundershowers depart as swiftly as they arrive, inviting a buffet of edibles to sprout in the forests, from strawberries and blueberries to prized chanterelles. Telluride’s festivarians turn gleefully eccentric for the Telluride Mushroom Fest. Mycophiles parade down Colorado Avenue in mushroom costumes, compete in a mushroom cook-off, and, naturally, hike into the woods to sniff out fungi and other edible goodies.

The air cools early in Telluride and by September, gold-leafed aspens tint the hillsides. The festival season heads toward a close with a ceremonious, all-out bang: Telluride Blues & Brews, a sprawling gathering that attracts top blues musicians and headliners like Willie Nelson, Melissa Etheridge and the B-52s. More than 70 breweries pour craft beers for thousands of festivarians, decked in sun hats and costumes to celebrate fall.

As with every other festival, the convivial mood seeps into every corner of town.

Artists play small stages hidden in the campgrounds, and intimate shows pop up at historical saloons after the last main stage

Telluride’s summer is brief and precious, which is why festivals have an air of almost feverish delight. act finishes its encore. And it’s not uncommon for festival-goers themselves to take part in impromptu jam sessions.

One evening, after all of the shows had wrapped up, I rambled through a campground following my ear to pop-up bands strumming amid the tents. I’d stand and listen for a while, then wander off, following the sound of a fiddle or a guitar or human voices harmonizing. I realized that people can’t help themselves but play. The mountains, the music, the moon overhead lighting up the cliffs and silver-plating the waterfalls — what could be better inspiration?

Perhaps B.B. King said it best: “Out of the 90 different countries I’ve been to,” he proclaimed, after a 2004 performance at Blues & Brews, “I’ve never seen anything more beautiful than what you have here.”

LEFT, DYL AN L ANGILLE; RIGHT, MERRICK CHASE.

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PEOPLE

A TEX AN, TODAY Life in the Lone Star State is about big dreams and an VANESSA JACKMAN/VAULT ARCHIVES/REDUX

appreciation for a rich, diverse heritage. John Nova Lomax says it’s also about being at odds with the entire world

A

s a friend of mine put it, “Do you think that in Omaha, people ask, ‘What defines a Nebraskan?’ The first and surest definition of Texans is that you spend a lot of time pondering what it means to be Texan.”

You are not American — nor are you Southern, nor truly Western, nor Southwestern.

And even in the parts of Texas that are distinctly one or the other (far West Texas is as Western as Arizona, south Texas is Mexico Lite), the people there will claim Texan-ness (or Tejano-ness) over all. In central Texas and the Hill Country, there’s a strong German and Czech flavor, and East Texas is spiced with Cajun and Creole flair from neighboring Louisiana. Planet Texas contains multitudes, and all of them are proudly embraced as Texan.

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Jacinto. Today, Lonesome Dove ranks as something like the Iliad and the Odyssey combined for many Texans, and neither of its heroes, Rangers Gus McCrae and Woodrow Call, rallied to the Dixie flag.

My own life and family history offer some insights.

One of the only things my bluntly honest dad will attempt to conceal about himself is that by a cruel trick of history and much to his shame (and even mine), he was not blessed with a Texan birthI would later spend periods of years away from place. I’ve seen people ask him, “Which town in Texas: some across the pond, in England, Israel and Texas were you born in?” and he will hem and haw, and his interviewers will press until he blurts out, “Sampson Navy Base, New York state! the Czech Republic, and always feeling like There was a war on!” And it’s true: His AustinI was walking around in shoes that didn’t quite fit. born dad was a lieutenant junior-grade swimming instructor in 1944. I console myself with the fact that my dad’s birthplace in what to us is Babylon is all Hitler’s fault. standing of the former Confederacy, but about 100 Some 52 years later, the circumstances of my own life years ago, leaders launched a concerted effort to fell such that my own son, John Henry Lomax, would rebrand the state, one that continues to this day. have to enter the world in Nashville. While I could Public school history curricula junked tales of not deliver his mother to Texas in time for his birth, I Stonewall Jackson’s tactical genius and Robert E. could do the next best thing: See to it that my first-born Lee’s gentlemanly derring-do, and replaced them with son’s feet touched Texas earth before they ever landed expositions on William Barret Travis’ defiant, suicidal on Tennessee soil. I had in my possession a vintage, stand at the Alamo alongside Jim Bowie and Davy Texas-fired brick, one that was stamped “Texas” on its Crockett, and Sam Houston’s stunning victory at San (slow-smoked beef brisket, ribs and sausage at Austin’s world-famous Franklin Barbecue), and top it all off with a dinner of shrimp poblano nachos and mole xiquenos under the Spanish-tiled roof of San Antonio’s La Fonda on Main?

For decades before and after the Civil War, Texas was content to consider itself a member in proud

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face. I took it with me to the delivery room, and when given the black powder for his hand- and footprints, I coated the soles of my 9-pound son’s feet and pressed them to the blessed brick from the motherland. Both my English-born ex-wife and the hospital staff thought I was absolutely bananas, but 20 years later, almost all of them spent in the state where he should have been born, John Henry still proudly owns this keepsake, even though his tiny footprints are now fading.

Whenever I have lived away from my native state, I have felt lost and alone. I spent the ages of 4 to 14 living in Nashville, where my dad had moved to further his career in the country music industry. I was never, ever comfortable in my Austin-born, Houston-bred skin in Music City. I always rooted for the Houston Astros, Oilers and Rockets, and the Texas Longhorns and Houston Cougars. I longed for both Houston’s fragrant magnolias and Austin’s cactus- and cedar-studded hills.

I would later spend periods of years away from Texas: some across the pond, in England, Israel and the Czech Republic, and always feeling like I was walking around in shoes that didn’t quite fit. During my Israeli sojourn, I literally wept when I bit into an (objectively mediocre) beef fajita at the Hard Rock Cafe in Tel Aviv. (Partially because this gentile had been craving such decadently, cheesy-meaty un-kosher

fare for months, but mostly because it quite simply tasted like home.)

Finally in 1997, I moved back to Texas, for good this time. Since then, my beloved homeland has never ceased to amaze and confound. Despite its deserved reputation as a fossil fuel state, Texas also produces more wind energy than the next three states combined.

Though they’ve done their best to keep it weird, Austin is no longer as strange as it once was, but in lieu of that, the city has become a true It City, a global hub for popular music, film and technology, thanks in large part to the South By Southwest festival.

Many of the other major cities have evolved in other directions. Once stuffy, buttoned-down Dallas has loosened its necktie and transformed into a city that offers ample opportunities for hedonism and even decadence, and sister city Fort Worth has added a veneer of eclecticism to its once uber-Texan, unpretentious dining and nightlife scene, much as San Antonio has expanded beyond the best Tex-Mex on the planet to many other cuisines. Houston’s Beyoncé is the reigning Queen of Pop. Like I said, Planet Texas contains multitudes, and those multitudes just grow and grow. Texans will not be content until those multitudes are the biggest and best in the land.

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CAST A SPELL Fly-fishing wasn’t Jen Murphy’s idea of a thrilling adventure sport, but an excursion to Colorado’s Taylor River awakened a deeper connection to nature and her dad

BOOT CAMP

Tucked away in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, Taylor River Lodge offers what could best be described as a cross between a fly-fishing paradise and a grown-up summer camp.

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BEST PRACTICE

Kokanee Lodge overlooks a trout-filled pond — the perfect warmup spot for novices to cast before graduating to a semiprivate stretch of the Taylor River.

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YOU EITHER GET BITTEN BY THE FISHING BUG or you don’t — and my dad got bit hard. Old photos show me strapped to my dad’s back, dangling above a river as he reeled in a bass or trout.

As soon as I could walk I was handed a childsized rod with a Snoopy bobber that I disinterestedly dragged through the water as my dad cast nearby. Most little girls played with Barbie.

I made Barbie-worthy fish bait. I’d sit beside my dad at his fly-tying desk and help him attach bright pink feathers and adhesive eyes, and then wrap holographic tinsel around the hook.

Despite my dad’s nurturing efforts, I didn’t catch the fishing bug. In fact, I found his beloved hobby downright boring. Eventually I left home in New Jersey to attend college in Boston and the great outdoors faded into a childhood memory as I settled into a career in Manhattan. When my dad passed away from cancer, I was left grasping for a way to keep our father-daughter connection. Now that he was gone, I desperately wanted to get to know him better. Although I didn’t inherit my dad’s fishing obsession, I did inherit his love for the wilderness, and when I moved to Colorado I decided it was time to give fishing another go. I needed to understand what my dad loved so much about a sport that seemed so snoozy.

My dad once told me the key to a successful fishing trip is a great guide, and I had heard that Taylor River Lodge employed some of the West’s top talents. This newest property from Eleven Experience — a collection of exclusive adventure lodges — debuted last fall, 15 miles southeast of Crested Butte, Colorado. I lose my cell signal

THIS SPREAD, AND PREVIOUS: ELEVEN EXPERIENCE

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as soon as I hit the dirt road that leads into the Taylor River Canyon. An enormous gate swings open to reveal what’s best described as a cross between a fly-fishing paradise and a grown-up summer camp. I immediately sense that both my dad and I would have loved it here.

I check into one of eight wood-andchink cabins tucked under tall shady trees; Antler-accented lamps, mounted trophy trout and other traditional Western décor are refreshingly complemented by worldly touches, like Moroccan textile headboards.

The main gathering space, Kokanee Lodge, overlooks the property’s trout-filled pond — the perfect practice area for a novice caster like myself seeking to graduate to the lodge’s semi-private stretch of the Taylor River. My guide, Moose — nicknamed not for his size but because his mom would go moose hunting while pregnant with him — tells me there are 5,000 trout per mile in the Taylor and Gunnison rivers, which sounds like good odds to me. In the gear room, he suits me up in top-of-the-line Simms waders, a fly-studded fishing vest and polarized sunglasses to help me spot the “hogs,” as Moose refers to the fish.

We start with casting lessons on the pond. “You’re all loosey-loose,” scolds Moose, referring to my wrist when I cast. He patiently shows me how to deftly flick my wrist rather than throw my arm like a pitcher when I cast.

We spot a half-dozen brown trout across the pond and I land my fly just in front of them.

Moose begins whispering his mantra, “C’mon fish,” and I try not to feel pressure to land a bite. I’m startled when he yells “hit it,” then realize I’ve got a fish on my hook. Unlike my dad, who at this point would have yanked the rod from my hands, Moose coaches me as I reel in my trout, instructing me to let the fish run so it tuckers out. When I get it close Moose scoops it into the net, and I beam with pride. My adrenaline is surging from my battle with this 6-pound trout. For the first time in my life, I share the same excitement my dad must have felt every time he hooked a fish.

Taylor River has plenty of non-fishing distractions, ranging from a climbing wall, archery, BB gun shooting and ax throwing on property, to white water rafting, hiking and mountain biking on property. But, I can’t think of any activity I’d rather do than fish and am thrilled when Moose suggests we try our luck along the river the next day. We

FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY LIFE I SHARE THE SAME FUN AND GAMES

ELEVEN EXPERIENCE

Taylor River Lodge has plenty of nonfishing distractions, on- and off-property, but catching a rainbow trout is the main lure.

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EXCITEMENT MY DAD FELT WHEN HE HOOKED A FISH. walk a few hundred meters across a bridge and wade into the water. Moose assesses the conditions and selects the appropriate fly for my hook. He points to a deep patch of water and tells me to land my cast right in the center. The current immediately takes my fly downstream, but he instructs me to stay relaxed and keep casting into the same spot. I get a few nibbles but no bites, so we change up flies and wade upstream. This time, on my first cast I hear Moose yell “hit it” almost before my fly has hit the water. My line quickly unspools, and I fight to reel in the slack. “That is a big fish!” Moose is yelling. I feed off his excitement and hold my ground, cranking my reel to bring in the whopper rainbow trout. Moose nets it, and I can hear my dad saying that he’s a beauty.

We fish until my wrist can’t do anything but go all loosey-loose when I cast. Unlike my other fishing experiences, at Taylor River I’m

rewarded with a glass of white Burgundy at the horseshoe-shaped bar and a steam, sauna and massage in the Bath House. Our alfresco dinner that evening is grilled trout. I’m just as much in awe that I could have caught this meal, as I am that I truly enjoyed every minute of my time on the river. Maybe it was the magical setting? Maybe it was my patient, enthusiastic guide? Maybe it was the promise of a classy drink and pampering after my adventure? Or maybe I really did inherit some of my dad’s fishing DNA. My time with Moose makes me realize that my dad’s obsession wasn’t catching fish, it was a passion for getting back to the land — for being so in tune with nature that you can sense what the fish are biting, what the fish are thinking. I may never become a fish whisperer, like Moose or my dad, but after a few days of battling “hogs” on the Taylor River, I’ll never call fishing boring again.

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A

BOUNTY

OF

BEAUTY

I N T E X A S ’ B L A C K L A N D P R A I R I E C O U N T R Y, GARDENERS AND FOOD LOVERS CAN LEARN THE S E C R E TS O F O R GA N I C FA R M I N G A N D G LO R I E S O F F I E L D - T O - TA B L E C O O K I N G . S U S A N L . E B E R T DELIGHTS IN THE SYMPHONY FOR THE SENSES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WYNN MYERS

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TASTE THE RAINBOW

The Inn at Dos Brisas has earned a Forbes five-star ranking for its restaurant, with an ever-changing menu, fueled by the property’s colorful organic garden.

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COOPED UP

“Farmer Steve” King oversees Dos Brisas Farm’s 42 certified-organic acres and grows more than 400 varieties of plants, which get a little help from 150-plus chicken flock.

A HUNDRED MILES EAST

of Austin, the landscape unfurls into soft, undulating farmland punctuated with quaint small towns such as Chappell Hill, which I drive slowly through, admiring its lovingly restored Main Street. I nonetheless press north, as my destination, the Inn at Dos Brisas, is just 6 miles ahead.

The elegant, mission-style boutique resort is nestled into the folds of the rolling, verdant hills of the Brazos River bottomlands along its tributary, Peach Creek.

Notably, The Inn has earned a Forbes five-star ranking for its restaurant, with an ever-changing menu, fueled by the organic bounty of the property itself.

As a lifelong organic gardener, myself — one who knows too well the vagaries of Texas’ drought-or-flood climate, withering summers and multitudinous flying, walking, crawling and burrowing garden predators — I’m here not only for spiritual restoration in these sumptuous surroundings, but to also glean some tips, both in the garden and in the kitchen.

For in addition to its more-standard country inn offerings of sporting clays, tennis, horseback riding and swimming, Dos Brisas welcomes guests both out in its gardens and in its kitchen for custom-tailored, field-to-table culinary workshops. After donning my tall rubber boots, I hop onto one of the “Dos Brisas limos,” the staff ’s tongue-in-cheek name for the fleet of golf carts used to get around the expansive property.

At the wheel is Steve King, the gregarious general manager of Dos Brisas Farm. Farmer Steve, as he’s affectionately called, earned his doctorate in plant breeding with minors in plant molecular biology and plant pathology from Cornell University.

“Dos Brisas currently has 42 certified-organic acres on its 313-acres property and grows more than 400 varieties — all with non-GMO, primarily heirloom seed and without synthetic herbicides or pesticides,” he tells me, shoving back the brim of his Indiana Jones-style fedora as we roll to a stop in front of the 7,000-square-foot greenhouse complex. “We definitely produce far more than our restaurant is able to use, but naturally, they get first pick. We also

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supply Houston’s Oxheart [2016 James Beard Best Chef in the Southwest winner Justin Yu’s restaurant], Coltivare, and Pondicheri restaurants, as well as food trucks and Southwestern Energy’s company cafeteria.

On top of that, we were able to donate 3,500 pounds of produce to food banks in 2016 alone.”

King leads me to the tomato and cucumber greenhouse, where vines are trellised on a Rube Goldbergesque contraption of overhead wires from which dozens of spools of string are suspended, each supporting a vine.

I comment that I’m seeing this system more and more.

“It’s really an old system that’s come back into vogue,” King says. “I’ll have two rows of pots, back to back, and as soon as each plant’s a foot or so tall, attach a string to it. As the plants grow, we keep rolling up the string until it reaches the spool. Then, we keep moving the spools counterclockwise, cutting off any side shoots that we’ll root in water to make more tomato plants.

As we keep moving the spools, the vines can trail up to 50 feet along the floor, but as fruits only grow on the trellised upper part, they are quite prolific.”

On one entire greenhouse row, waist-high beds contain several inches of water, on top of which float

NUTRITIOUS AND DELICIOUS

To grow the best produce possible, Dos Brisas carefully monitors its soil — adding organic nutrients, rotating crops and even analyzing water to ensure the right composition.

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HE ALT HY PLAN TS BE GIN WIT H HEA LTHY SOIL. WAT E R IS CRU CIAL AS WE LL. WAT E R AN D SOIL ARE D E LIVE RY SYST E MS FOR T H E N U T RIE N TS AN ORGAN IC GARD E N N E E D S TO T HRIVE .

sheets of 3/4-inch Styrofoam with holes punched through it at regular intervals. Farmer Steve notes my quizzical look and explains: “Oh, this is my system for hydroponic lettuces,” he says, grinning. “That’s rock wool cubes stuffed into the holes, and each cube holds a lettuce seed. This is how I grow our butter lettuce, several types of mini-romaines and eight varieties of bagged lettuce.”

As we head out to the fields, King elaborates on challenges an organic grower — whether large-scale farmer or backyard gardener — needs to surmount.

Healthy plants begin with healthy soil. Water, not just too much or too little, is crucial as well. Water and soil are delivery systems for the three primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) and three secondary nutrients (magnesium, sulphur and calcium) your organic garden needs to thrive.

“You must know your water and know your soil,” King insists. “Rainwater is the absolute best, so water from a rain barrel whenever you can. Well water, especially, can have high salt content; tomatoes can only tolerate 100 ppm [parts per million] of sodium, tops.” King uses Waters Agricultural Laboratories, which will perform tests for under $20 with less than a week turnaround time. Soil amendments, in the form of rich, black compost comprising manure from Dos Brisas’ 35-horse stable, its 150-plus chicken flock, spent plants, landscape trimmings and kitchen scraps, enrich the heavy clay-and-sand Brazos bottomlands.

Seed choice also plays a key role in a garden’s success. “Some heirloom varieties are hardier than others,” says King, “so when I find one that works well here, I’ll save seed from it so I can continue with that variety.”

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hybrids, such as the supersweet Red Delight tomato, which scores a whopping 8 to 9 on the Brix scale.

“Rotate your crops whenever it’s feasible,” advises King. “It’s your No. 1 organic tool to break the life cycles of pests and diseases particular to that plant family.

Plus, rotation will keep your soil from wearing out, as members of the same family draw out the same nutrients from the soil. Rotate your heavy nitrogen-, phosphorus- and potassium-feeding crops such as tomatoes with soil-building crops such as beans, which enrich the soil, followed by light-feeding members of the onion family, such as onions, garlic, leeks or shallots.”

While King and I have been afield, members of his staff of 10 have been harvesting for today’s culinary

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offerings. We wend our way back toward the mail buildings, and he pauses at the Chef ’s Garden, built in a Texas Star pattern of walkways and beds. A riotous bloom of edible flowers — dianthus, bachelor buttons, snapdragon and nasturtium — greet us as we stroll through fragrant groupings of freshly snipped herbs. My anticipation is building to join the chef in his kitchen.

Executive chef Matt Padilla and sous-chef Ryan Dunn have prepped a mini-lesson for me — much like the ones they offer their guests. To my left, Padilla has laid out baked russet potatoes, eggs from Dos Brisas’ henhouse and flour. “This is 00 flour,” he tells me, “the soft, low-gluten flour preferred for pasta-making.

Today, I will teach you to make gnocchi.”

PASTA TO PECANS

In the kitchen, Chef Matt Padilla guides guests through recipes — like fresh pasta topped with herbs, roasted organic vegetables and candied nuts — that feature ingredients from Dos Brisas’ fields.

“ W ORKIN G IN T HE BAY ARE A ... WAS T H E PE RFE CT PRE PARAT ION FOR T HIS PO SITIO N WH E RE I WORK D IRE CT LY WIT H FARM E R ST E VE AN D HIS STAFF, WH O BRIN G ME TH E F RESHEST POSSIBLE INGREDIENTS.”

As we proceed with the lesson, I learn that the handsome young chef is a son of the Southwest. Born in Colorado, he studied at the Johnson & Wales Culinary School in Denver, and then worked both in Colorado and Arizona before venturing abroad to Copenhagen’s Noma — at the time, the No. 1 rated restaurant in the world. Returning stateside, he plied his craft in several San Francisco restaurants, including a stint as sous-chef at Michael Mina, under star chef Ron Siegel and at the highly regarded French restaurant Masa’s.

“Working in the Bay area, I was able to make connections directly with farmers,” he tells me, as he deftly shapes gnocchi dough into delicate seashells (whereas mine resemble clumsy miniature logs). “It was the

perfect preparation for this position where I work directly with Farmer Steve and his staff, who bring me the freshest possible ingredients.”

While Chef Padilla blanches the gnocchi in boiling water, I join sous-chef Dunn to assemble a pesto sauce from just-harvested arugula, red-veined sorrel, baby kale and other spicy greens. “Pine nuts are traditional in pesto,” Dunn says, “but today we’ll use native pecans, as they are so plentiful at Dos Brisas.”

Padilla deftly drains the gnocchi and transfers it to a sauté pan with a bit of oil; into this go quartered fresh tomatoes, miniature bok choy and broccoli florets.

He tosses the mixture gently, then drizzles in some of the pesto Dunn and I have just made before handing me a pristine white plate. Mounded in its center, the plump gnocchi and limpid notes of the fresh vegetables shine like so many radiant jewels under a gauzy film of pesto. I close my eyes to savor the first mouthful, a bright orchestration of the essence of Dos Brisas and its incomparable organic table-on-farm cuisine.

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Wanderlust AT BIG B END NATIONAL PARK, A ST YL I S H OV E RL AND ADV E NT U RE CAL LS FOR A CAREFREE AT TI T U D E AND S O U T HW EST E RN S E NS I B I L I T Y PHOTOGRAPHY BY

SI N U H E X AV I E R

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Dress by Splendid, avaiilable at Neiman Marcus. Belt by Anthropologie. Sandals

by Michael Kors.

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Sweater available at Anthropologie.

Swimsuit by Becca and boots by Coach, both available at Nordstrom.

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Top by Soft Joie, available at Saks Fifth Avenue. Skirt by Joh, available at Pinto Ranch.

Vintage necklace and cuff available at Shiprock, Santa Fe. Sandals by Michael Kors.

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THIS PAGE: Tent by Ellis Canvas Tents, Durango, Colorado. Chelan camp chair by Filson. Leather blanket harness by Heritage Overland.

Mexican blanket (rolled) available at Shiprock, Santa Fe. OPPOSITE: Top available at Vince, River Oaks District, Houston.

Jeans by Levi’s Made & Crafted, available at Phoenix General. Boots

by Chippewa.

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Top by Joie, available at Joie boutiques.

Jeans by 7 for All Mankind, available at Anthropologie.

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Dress by Levi’s Made & Crafted, available at Phoenix General.

Boots by Chippewa.

Tent by Ellis Canvas Tents, Durango Colorado. Canvas tote and Ranger bag by Heritage Overland.

Mexican blanket available at Shiprock, Santa Fe. Model: Shane at Wilhelmina, Los Angeles. Hair and makeup: Lillian Fogel.

Vehicle courtesy of Heritage Overland.

Shot on location at Big Bend National Park.

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AT HOME

REFINED SOUTHWESTERN LIVING AND STYLE

Shapes of the Southwest Add a modern vibe to your home with these geometric pieces that reflect centuries of indigenous design

BY E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N

1

Gold Rush

A stunning addition to any shelf or tabletop, this hand-cut brass planter pairs perfectly with a small succulent. Pure Brass Geometric Planter, $85, roseandfitzgerald.com

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AT H OME

2

Tea Party

Handmade and blockprinted on natural cotton, this tea towel brings a welcome graphic pop to any Southwestern kitchen. XIII Tea Towel by Rachel LaBarre, $24, localnomadshop.com

Q&A

Marvin J. Wilkinson John Brooks Inc.

The founder of the décor group with showrooms in Scottsdale, Denver, Salt Lake City and Aspen, explains how to blend modern and traditional styles.

3

State of Clay

Reminiscent of ancient native pottery and basket weaving, this piece by sculptor Michael Wisner transcends time with a distinctly contemporary feel. Elk Mountain Clay Vessel available at Telluride Gallery, price upon request, telluridegallery.com

4

I have a more traditional home but would like to decorate with a modern feel. How can I do that?

I love playing with traditional and modern styles. The juxtaposition of the two makes a space feel classic and fresh at the same time. People often misinterpret modern design as lacking detail. However, a great modern space is full of wonderful details.

The difference is that they are subtle, like a well-tailored suit. So, if you have a traditional home, incorporate well-tailored and expertly detailed furniture pieces.

All the Right Angles

Antiqued brass and simple lines combine to create a stylish celebration of negative space in this glass-top coffee table.

Marlow Geometric Coffee Table, $650, thekhazana.net

5

Toss Up

Add a bit of texture to your living room with this hand-hooked wool pillow, featuring a design inspired by 19th-century Native American weaving traditions. Pendleton San Miguel Pillow, $99.99, wheelersfeed.com

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What are the key elements of Southwestern design?

Understanding the color, pattern and texture of this region and using those design elements alone or in various combinations can give your space a Southwestern feel. Using different degrees of these elements can determine how sophisticated, subtle or literal the end result will be.

How can you keep a modern home from feeling too stark and cold?

Warmth of space is about addressing the volume of the room. So don’t be afraid to add layers: clean chandeliers, textured wall coverings, soft throws and pillows, tailored window treatments.

What big design trends do you foresee in the coming year?

Wallpaper. Indoor/outdoor living spaces — not just outdoor furniture but outdoor spaces that are as layered and comfortable as indoor spaces. The No. 1 trend, though: custom details.

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CURVE APPEAL

Deemed “How to Live in the Southwest” by Frank Lloyd Wright, the David and Gladys Wright House was saved from demolition when a mother and son stepped in to protect and restore the masterpiece.

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AT H OME

A WRIGHT RENAISSANCE

DAVID & GL ADYS WRIGHT HOUSE FOUNDATION

BY SAM MITTELSTEADT

Frank Lloyd Wright pioneered several principles of Southwestern architecture in an Arizona home he designed in 1950 for his son David. More than 60 years later, a mother and son are leading an effort to restore its glory and preserve its heritage

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AT H OME

RAISE THE ROOF

The home’s elevated living quarters provide unobstructed mountain views over the tree line that encircles the property.

W

hen Zach Rawling was just a tyke, barely in elementary school, his mother loved taking him on bicycle rides, leading two-wheeled tours past what she considered to be the best historical properties in metro Phoenix. When it came to architecture, Katharine Rawling was no dilettante — the North Carolina native had studied the field beginning in high school and extensively researched the buildings of Frank Lloyd Wright in architecture school at Arizona State University after she and her husband, John, moved to Scottsdale in the early 1970s.

Shortly after Zach was born, the Rawlings purchased a home about a mile and a half from one of Wright’s final residential projects, a 2,500-square-foot home the architect designed in 1950 for his son and daughter-in-law, David and Gladys Wright. The home’s

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occupants referred to it as their “own Taj Mahal,” but Frank Lloyd Wright, ever the showman even at age 84, bestowed upon the house an even more ambitious moniker: “How to Live in the Southwest.”

Wright loved to choreograph the views to his properties, and the original approach to the house would have been especially cinematic: Guests drove through acres of orange groves before entering a clearing with a spectacular vista that highlighted the full sweep of Camelback Mountain, which looms just a few blocks northwest.

The next sight to come into view would be the home itself, a literal coil of concrete block that begins with a spiral ramp that guests ascend on their way to the front door. Raising the house a dozen feet above the dusty Sonoran Desert floor maximizes cross-breeze ventilation to help keep the interior comfortable eight months out of the year. (For the remaining four,

DAVID & GL ADYS WRIGHT HOUSE FOUNDATION

Wright was kind enough to include air conditioning, which only recently had become readily available for residential use.)

The architect’s Usonian principles championed the use of readily available construction materials — items that any American could pick up at the hardware store — and sturdy, insulated concrete block, then a relatively new building material, was particularly well-suited for the Southwest. David Wright was an executive for the company that created the Vibrapac press, used to form said blocks, and also acted as the contractor for the construction of his home, following his father’s blueprints.

The house was designed at the same time Frank Lloyd Wright was working on plans for the Guggenheim Museum in New York, another famously spiral creation. “The David Wright House let Frank explore the complex geometry of a radial grid,” says

Guests drove through acres of orange groves before entering a clearing with a spectacular vista that highlighted the full sweep of Camelback Mountain.

Victor Sidy, head and dean of the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture from 2005 to 2015. “In some ways, it serves as a maquette.”

There is one major difference: While the Guggenheim is always focused inward, at every point the Wright House directs its occupants to gaze outward — it was specifically sited along a direct line between Camelback Mountain and the Papago Buttes that jut up a few miles to the southeast, for example,

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AT H OME GROVE SAND

and the home’s elevation and radial grid afforded an enviable, 360-degree view of the 10 acres of surrounding grounds — a “lawn” of leafy citrus treetops.

David and Gladys Wright lived in the house until their deaths (at ages 102 and 104, respectively), and during that half-century the grounds morphed into something more hidden, less spectacular. The couple subdivided the acreage, selling nearly half to developers who constructed more traditional homes atop what used to be the estate’s grand entrance. On what remained, vegetation crept and spread to obfuscate some of the home’s defining elements. Trees that had been planted to afford privacy from the traffic on new nearby streets also grew to obstruct the once-enviable sightlines, and the bougainvillea that had once been only a courtyard accent sprawled intrusively in front of the showcase entry spiral.

“As that growth occurred, the whole house became inward-looking,” Rawling says. “All views were essentially closed off.”

The property was first put on the market in 2009, and was about to be purchased by a developer that had announced plans to demolish the home and build luxury homes on the site. Preservationists were outraged, but the house would be destroyed unless someone stepped in to save it.

Rawling, then a successful custom home builder in Las Vegas, was told about the Wright House’s plight from a colleague and immediately sprang into action.

“All these years we’d never been inside the house, and only seen it from the street,” he recalls. “But 36 hours after I heard about it, we were walking through the courtyard for the first time.”

His mother was immediately enchanted, inspecting every nook during the tour of the fully intact interior, opening every closet door. “I could tell there was no way

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she’d not want to take on the project,” says Rawling, who purchased the property in 2012 and moved back to Phoenix so he and his mother could oversee restoration of the house and grounds, directed by Wright historians and preservation architects such as Sidy. Katharine hopes to see the property used as a nonprofit philanthropic educational and cultural facility with significant programming aimed at children — “the age I was when I first saw the building,” Zach Rawling says.

If successful, the effort would be a fitting epilogue to the story of a home built through a twoyear collaboration between father and son, with the hallmarks and trademarks of postwar optimism in the American West. “It’s a nice moment in history to preserve,” Rawling says.

DAVID & GL ADYS WRIGHT HOUSE FOUNDATION

Originally, guests drove through acres of orange groves before entering a clearing with a spectacular vista that highlighted the full sweep of Camelback Mountain, which looms just a few blocks northwest.

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M Y DOR A DO NATIONAL HISPANIC CULTURAL CENTER, ALBUQUERQUE

I draw so much of my inspiration from the history of New Mexico — the Pueblo societies and the coming of Europeans. The symbiotic relationship between the cultures dates back to the 1500s and still continues to this day, from the food that we eat to the way we worship.

It’s what makes this place what it is — the Land of Enchantment.

F R E D E R I C O V I G I L , PA I N T E R O F T H E F R E S C O M U N D O S D E M E S T I Z A J E , T H E L A R G E S T C O N C AV E F R E S C O I N N O RT H A M E R I C A

Photograph by Jen Judge

/DORADOMAGAZINE

@DORADOMAG

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Tag your photos on social media with #MyDorado to show us what you love about the Southwest. We’ll share our favorites at doradomagazine.com.

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