Dorado Magazine - July/Aug 2015 by Ballantine Communications

DORADO S L AC K L I N I N G I N M OA B

CALEXICO’S DESERT SOUND

S A N TA F E G E TA W AY

R EFIN ED LI V ING , BIG A DV EN T U R ES

ANSEL ADAMS

EXPLORES THE SOUTHWEST

Fresh Easy

LOCAL MARKETS, great hunting and

fishing spots, DELICIOUS RECIPES J U LY/ A U G U S T 2 0 1 5

and elegant ideas

for entertaining

ROMANCE, DRAMA, FUN!

JULY 3 – AUGUST 29

2015

... all at THE SANTA FE OPERA

THE DAUGHTER OF THE REGIMENT RIGOLETTO SALOME

Donizetti

Verdi

R. Strauss

LA FINTA GIARDINIERA COLD MOUNTAIN

Mozart

World Premiere

Composer Jennifer Higdon Librettist Gene Scheer

Robert Godwin photo

Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy the sunset and mountain views.

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Y� C�e�i�

Our Guidance

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Give the GIFT of BIG ADVENTURES.

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J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

DEPARTMENTS OUTDOORS

24 Toe the Line

AT HOME

34 Art House

Venture to the crags of Moab and discover the thrilling world of slacklining.

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM

A Texas couple’s home in the hills of Santa Fe showcases a spectacular collection of modern art.

IN TOWN

DESTINATION

30 Night at the Museum Club

73 Santa Fe

The high-desert town is the very embodiment of the Southwest — rugged, beautiful, timeless.

This log cabin and former Route 66 taxidermy museum is now the ultimate music venue.

PA N O R A M A A SNA P SHOT OF T HE SOU T HWEST ’ S EV ENTS, C U LT U R E & P E O P L E MUSIC

13 For Tucson-based

Calexico, the desert is alive with the sound of the world’s music.

GEAR

16 Let nature take its course with these handsome hiking accessories, on or off the trail.

ART

80 M Y

18 Taos is celebrating 100 DORADO

With some of the best peaches and wine grapes west of the Mississippi, one farmer finds paradise at Talbott Farms in Palisade, Colorado.

years on the art world map and the gents who put it there.

8 Letter from the Editor • 10 Masthead • 11 Contributors

D O R A D O • J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5

INSIDER

20 Whitewater adventure,

great tacos and a couple of local brews — just another summer day for one popular Colorado river guide.

ENVIRONMENT

22 In Littleton, Colorado,

seed savers are working to preserve the produce and plants of the Southwest.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY THE COUSE FOUNDATION, AMY COVINGTON/STOCKSY, CAMERON GARDNER, DOUGL AS MERRIAM, FR ANK OUDEMAN, RYAN WILLIAMS.

photo: toddpowell.com

Mountain Magic > Few things are more magical than a mountain town. By a lake. With a charming Main Street. Rentals. Runabouts. Fishing boats. Fishing poles. Pontoons. Canoes. Kayaks. Stand up paddleboards. Classic boat tours. Playground and sandy beach. Food and libations with waterside views. Check us out. TownofFrisco.com

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TABLE of CONTEN TS

FEATURES

Fresh & Easy Enjoy the bounty of the Southwest in our regional culinary feast, from local markets and delicious recipes to ideas for entertaining your family and friends.

Magic, Strength & Beauty Discover a master photographer’s special connection to the Southwest. photography by Ansel Adams

Cast Away Just west of Colorado Springs runs the Tarryall Creek, where a fishing camp offers instruction and simple pleasures. by Lois Friesland

Free Spirits Escape to Arizona’s Verde Valley, where the romance of the Old West has modern appeal. photography by Fawn DeViney

on t h e c ove r : A rainbow trout wrapped in paper, photographed by James Ross

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FAWN DEVINEY. MATT NAGER, ACE KVALE. COVER: JAMES ROSS/GETTY IMAGES.

JULY/AUGUST 2015

Wow!

The easiest way to

Why spend your time in the car? Spend it on a train, trail, horseback or in the powder. Easy direct flights to Durango from Denver, Phoenix and Dallas/Fort Worth with hundreds of connections to the world. Spend your time on an adventure.

F LY COLOR A D O WWW.FLYDURANGO.COM

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L ET T ER FROM THE E DITOR

Let’s Eat! For me, food is a bit of an obsession. It’s not just eating great food (though, I do enjoy that). Rather, it’s the whole experience. I love learning how farmers and artisan food-makers produce regional ingredients that place a premium on great flavor as well as on responsible, sustainable techniques. I love talking to chefs to hear what inspires them to create menus that are culinary alchemy — dishes that deliver visceral pleasure with every bite. I also love chips and salsa. And a really good margarita. Most of all, though, I love sitting down with friends and family at the end of a long day, filling the table with food, popping open a couple of bottles of wine and sharing a meal together. And that’s probably food’s greatest pleasure: It further enriches time spent with people we care about. In this food-centric issue of Dorado, we skip the usual top-restaurant lists and celebrity-chef profiles, focusing instead on the experience and pleasure of eating in the Southwest. We travel to remote southern Utah to dine at a restaurant with an innovative

farm-to-table menu that inspires foodie pilgrimages (page 42). We go shopping at the Santa Fe Farmers Market, one of the best in the country, to taste green chiles and take in the weekly ritual that brings the whole town together (page 46). We offer ideas on how to craft a modern, stylish table setting for your next big get-together (page 48). And the catch of the day doesn’t get much fresher than at The Broadmoor resort’s Fishing Camp, where we cast a line on Colorado’s Tarryall Creek (page 52). There’s so much more to enjoy in this issue of Dorado. I encourage you to dig in! And if you’ll excuse me, I’m a little hungry. I’ve got some chips and salsa calling my name.

EAT, DRINK AND CELEBRATE In this issue of Dorado, we raise a glass to the pleasure of eating and entertaining in the Southwest.

Jeff Ficker

ISTOCK

e d itor in ch ie f Dorado magazine

D O R A D O • J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5

KAREN MELFI collection

Photography by Wendy McEahern

225 Canyon Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 505.982.3032 karenmelﬁcollection.com

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E D I TO R I A L

Editor in Chief

Jeff Ficker Creative Director

Caroline Jackson Crafton Associate Editor/Digital Editor

Ellen Ranta Olson Online Design

Chuck Rose, Aaron Heirtzler editorial inquiries: editor@doradomagazine.com PRODUCTION

Creative Shared Services Director

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Douglas Bennett Vice President of Finance and Operations

Bob Ganley To subscribe to Dorado magazine, visit doradomagazine.com. Dorado magazine is published by Ballantine Communications. Creative services provided by Casual Astronaut (casualastronaut.com). Dorado magazine will not assume any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. 2015 Ballantine Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means without prior written permission.

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CONTRIBUTORS

ONLINE

WEAR Fresh ways to style a cowboy hat.

EAT Lois Friedland (Cast Away, page 52) uses writing as an excuse to explore new lands and adventures. She lives on a mountainside 30 minutes from downtown Denver and so is able to enjoy the best of both outdoors and urban culture. Writing has taken her to more than 50 countries, from skiing in New Zealand and visiting with artists in Cuba to zip lining in South Africa and diving with sharks in the Caribbean. FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST

Sam Moulton (Destination: Santa Fe, page 73) has been a magazine editor and writer for the past 15 years. Along the way, he’s snorkeled with beluga whales in Hudson Bay, skied in the Bulgarian backcountry and tracked polar bears in Nunavik, Canada. His work has appeared in Backpacker, Men’s Journal, Skiing and many others. After eight years as an editor at Santa Fe-based Outside magazine, Moulton recently became its content marketing director.

Santa Fe

FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST

“I enjoy visiting with Native American potters, taste testing innovative Southwestern cuisine and walking through the rugged landscape that lured so many great painters.”

Gila National Forest, New Mexico

The best donut shops in the west.

DO Wine-and-ride through the vineyards of Colorado.

ESCAPE 7 swoon-worthy Southwestern vacation rentals.

“It’s remote and rugged and raw. When you get into the heart of it, it feels like you’re in another world. It’s like the land that time forgot.”

#MyDorado Show us everything you love about the Southwest.

MATT NAGER (LOIS FRIEDLAND)

Photographer Ace Kvale (Heaven Can Wait, page 42) travels the world, but he has made his home in the canyons and wilderness of the Colorado Plateau. An advocate for wilderness preservation, Kvale donates his time documenting medical missions in Asia and Africa. He can often be found with his fourlegged friend, the Desert Dawg. FAVORITE PLACE IN TH E SOU THW EST Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, Colorado “Its 2 million acres of wilderness allows my spirit to roam free.”

Kate LeSueur (A Place at the Table, page 48) is a lifestyle photographer based in Austin. She has shot for Garden & Gun, Texas Monthly and Wayfare magazines, as well as Whole Foods, Crate & Barrel, the Food Network and Warby Parker. FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST

Tag your photos with #MyDorado and we’ll share our favorites. DORADOMAGAZINE.COM

@dorado_mag

Southwestern Colorado “When I was a kid, my wild Cajun family (aunts, uncles and cousins) caravanned cross-country from south Louisiana to Durango. I’ll never ever forget the intensely sweet, crisp smell of pine in the air and sound of the river.”

@doradomag

/doradomagazine /doradomagazine

editor@doradomagazine.com J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

PANORAMA A S N A P S H O T O F T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S E V E N T S , C U LT U R E & P E O P L E

MUSIC

¡Viva La Musica!

For Tucson-based Calexico, the desert is alive with the sound of the world’s music B Y K E L LY VA U G H N

INGO PERTR AMER

Calexico frontmen Joey Burns and John Convertino continue to evolve their groundbreaking Southwestern indie rock.

PLUS: 16 | Gear 18 | Art 20 | Insider 22 | Environment

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PANORAMA

or Calexico’s Joey Burns, and Afro-Cuban styles Burns admires the desert is a revelation. to pieces of instrumental inspiration “I’m inspired by the the band draws from places like the openness of Arizona,” he says. Mediterranean — which, incidentally, “There’s an element of space reminds Burns of the desert. “The record here — space in the music, is an expansive piece of work,” he says. space in the location.” “The band is made up of members from It’s no surprise then that the band’s around the world, and that’s the core of new album, Edge of the Calexico’s vision. We all love Sun, celebrates the musical to travel, so we incorporate exploration that comes from music from around the embracing variety, something world. We have a signature the Tucson-based group has sound, but it’s a subtle long done. The record, the thing.” band’s ninth studio effort, That sound, a little features collaborations with folksy, a little alt-country Neko Case, Iron & Wine’s and a little Latino, comSam Beam, Band of Horses’ bines a slew of instruments Ben Bridwell and more. to back Burns’ vocals — “There’s an Although much of the work element of space from violins and organs to on the album was done in Greek instruments. here — space Tucson, the band recorded The band, named for in the music, space the town on the Californiait in Mexico City, just blocks in the location.” away from artist Frida Mexico border, is touring Kahlo’s famed Casa Azul. now in support of Edge “We made the connection through of the Sun, and according to Burns, he friends of keyboardist Sergio Mendoza,” and his five musical counterparts — Burns says. “That was a nice way for John Convertino, Paul Niehaus, Jacob us to go to work and be inspired by the Valenzuela, Martin Wenk and Volker backdrop at the same time.” Zander — will continue their tradition Indeed, international sounds perof seeking out places that will become vade Calexico’s work, from the Latin their favorite global spots. That means

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taking cabs, walking or biking to restaurants that locals have recommended, or stumbling on an unexpectedly great hole in the wall before a show and being saved from eating lukewarm food from aluminum containers. And, of course, the band is looking to once again connect with its fans. “People respond to the depth, not only in the music, but in the lyrics,” Burns says. “It transports people. Maybe they’ve gone through a difficult time — the music is sympathetic to the listener. When we sequence a record, we want it to feel natural, like you’re opening a book or watching a movie. You’re on your own journey. The record is a living, breathing entity.” As Burns and the other band members age, they find themselves working on living and breathing themselves. Some have taken to running. Others practice yoga. They all have a special affinity for the green poblano hot sauce Burns picks up at the Tucson airport before each tour. More than anything, though, Calexico is continuing a musical evolution and finding its space in a cluttered world. “Calexico is about a lot of moods, a lot of setting,” Burns says. “There are two trails ahead of you, right? We are the trail that’s most definitely less traveled. And on that trail — at times — it doesn’t make sense, and it’s treacherous and there’s a dark cloud over the trail. It looks like there’s rain. But, somehow, it looks like there’s some sort of glow from beyond the darkness. You can just make out the edge of a Southwestern sun.”

PLAY BY EAR

Listen to our favorite Calexico tracks at doradomagazine.com/calexico.

TOP: C BR ANDON/GETT Y IMAGES

Drawing influences from global sounds, Calexico’s newest album, Edge of the Sun, was written and recorded in Tucson and Mexico City.

PANORAMA C U LT U R E

From Oaxaca with Love How a Telluride ski-bum became an importer of Mexican mezcal B Y E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNA B. PINNEO

For more photos of mezcal in the making, visit doradomagazine.com/mezcal.

udah Kuper’s story is your typical boy meets girl, boy picks up and moves to Mexico to be with girl, boy imports mezcal to the U.S., kind of love story. Kuper moved to Telluride from Boulder in 1992 and “lived a pretty typical ski-bum life, working every kind of dumb job you can imagine,” he says. For about eight years, Kuper would work odd jobs in Colorado, saving up money to head south and hunt waves in Central America. On his last trip to his favorite beach about an hour outside of Oaxaca, Mexico, Kuper developed an ear infection, went to a local clinic and met a nurse. The rest is history, so they say. “I don’t know for sure if it was love at first sight, but I knew I wanted her to be the mother of my children,” he says. His earache was gone, but in its place was a new heartache. He knew he had to stay. Along with close friend Dylan Sloan, Kuper rented a palapa on the beach and ran a popular beachside bar, all the while courting his new love. In the end, Kuper got the girl — he and Valentina were married, and he gained a whole new family. “I started bringing my father-in-law’s mezcal down

to the bar and everyone loved it,” he says. “As I became part of her family, witness to their mastery in crafting mezcal, I knew the time had come to share these beautiful mezcals with the world.” Along with Sloan, who lives in Ophir, Colorado, Kuper formed Vago, a company that exports Oaxaca’s undiscovered mezcals, which is like an uncle of tequila. All mezcals are made from agave plants, while tequila is made from one particular species — the blue agave. So all tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequilas. “Mezcal, like wine, varies with each batch. Much of the mezcal comes from my father-in-law, such as our Espadin and the Elote, but others, such as our Tobala and Madre Cuixe, come from other remote towns, from master mezcaleros whose mezcals must be shared with the world,” he says. Their mezcal is still made in the ancestral technique, the way it’s been done for six generations — it is unfiltered, unaged and roasted in ovens for a smokiness that is like no other. “One of our producers actually hand-mashes the agave in clay pots,” Kuper says. “It’s about as close to farm-to-table as you can get for an import.”

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PANORAMA GEAR

Take a Hike

Let nature take its course with these handsome hiking accessories, on or off the trail BY DINA MISHEV

Bottoms Up

Inside, this stainless steel hip flask holds 6 ounces; outside, it’s got room for an entire mountain range. $20, liquidcourageflasks.com

B O OT CA MP

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Part of the Crew Henleys have been around forever. Bonobos updates theirs with a trimmer fit and cotton slub. $68, bonobos.com

HIKER: WARREN GOLDSWAIN/STOCKSY

A full-featured hiking boot that’s supportive and light? Sure, if it’s Scarpa’s new R-Evolution GTX. Did we mention the Gore-Tex lining? $239, scarpa.com

ONLINE

River Deep, Mountain Tough Chaco’s OutCross Evo 2s are built to tackle land and water with mesh uppers, rugged soles and a Neoprene lining. $110, chaco.com

B A BY O N B OA R D

SOUTHWEST

ESSENTIALS New to the region? Start here.

Image courtesy of Penca

Made to order in Oregon, this 100 percent cotton onesie is for the hikers of tomorrow.

The Best Mexican Restaurants doradomagazine.com/ best-mexican-restaurants

$16, trulysanctuary shop at etsy.com

Hikes that Almost Anyone Can Do doradomagazine.com/4-day-hikes

Hike Softly, Carry Light Poles Black Diamond’s Alpine Carbon Z Trekking Poles collapse into three sections and are as tough as running the rim-to-rim-to-rim. $190, blackdiamondequipment.com

HAPPY CAMPERS

Find more great hiking and camping products at doradomagazine.com.

Run Wild

Sleekly efficient, Osprey’s Aura Pack features anti-gravity suspension, which allows you to pack it up without killing your back. $260, rei.com

Must-Have Camping Gear doradomagazine.com/happy-camper

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

ART

High Society Taos is celebrating 100 years on the art world map as well as the gents who put it there. Meet the women who keep the tradition alive B Y J AY M E M O Y E

n artist enclave doesn’t happen by accident. The Taos that we enjoy today is the result of more than 100 years of conscious choices in support of working artists (in both the best of times and the worst of times). In fact, art was a priority in Taos even before the north-central New Mexico community was officially incorporated as a town in 1934 — it had already been an artist colony for some 30 years prior. Credit for the earliest advancement of art in Taos belongs to six well-educated painters who called themselves the Taos Society of Artists, founded in 1915. While the endeavor didn’t survive the Great Depression, these gentlemen’s efforts to expose the world to “Real American Art” — by sending their paintings of uniquely American images and Native American symbolism across the country on traveling exhibits — put Taos on the map as an art center and brought the Taos art colony international acclaim. Now home to five museums and dozens of galleries, Taos, in honor of the Taos Society of Artists’ 100th anniversary, will throughout the year celebrate the contributions of the society and its followers — as well as those of the contemporary artists continuing the tradition. All of the town’s museums and many galleries will host art displays, lecture series, and events centered on this theme. The Couse-Sharp Historic Site (after Taos Society of Artists founders Joseph Henry Sharp and E. Irving Couse) held a panel discussion in June that included 12 descendants of the Taos Society of Artists members. But perhaps nowhere is the spirit of the Taos Society of Artists more alive and well than at Taos’ modern-day art cooperatives. The members of the society were themselves working artists and formed their organization as a From bottom: Six painters who called themselves the Taos Society of Artists transformed the small New Mexico town into a celebrated art colony; founding member Oscar Berninghaus’ Glorieta.

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THIS PAGE: COURTESY THE COUSE FOUNDATION. OPPOSITE: GAIL RUSSELL.

PANORAMA

PANORAMA ART

5 Galleries to Explore in Northern New Mexico There’s no shortage of amazing art collections in Santa Fe and Taos. Here are five of our favorites

HEINLEY FINE ARTS

THE OWINGS GALLERY

Situated in the heart of Santa Fe, the Owings Gallery bills itself as a gallery for 19th and 20th century art. Keep an eye out for an exhibit featuring new work by Ed Mell in August. owingsgallery.com

MORNING STAR GALLERY Nestled in an historic building on Canyon Road in the heart of the art district in Santa Fe, Morning Star is known for carrying cultural and artistic treasures of unparalleled quality from more than 50 Native North American tribes. morningstargallery.com

From top: Colorful knits by Las Comadres Women’s Cooperative member Judith Rane; member Kim Pollis and her tin artwork.

cooperative as opposed to a collective — a notable distinction because a cooperative actually sells art. Each member assumes a different responsibility in running the gallery, making it possible to be both an artist and a business owner (a difficult balance otherwise). A charming example is Las Comadres Women’s Cooperative Gallery, located just north of the Plaza on Bent Street. The eclectic shop has been in business for 16 years, weathering multiple economic downturns. Eight female artists split the business tasks — from operating the retail store to running the website — as well as create the art that’s for sale. “People love coming in the store and getting to meet one of the artists,” says Mari “Mud” Hawkes, co-op member and potter. “As an artist, you could be in a studio all the time and never get the direct feedback of people looking at your work. I’ve found it just so inspiring.” The Taos Society of Artists would be proud.

What began as a curated collection in Boston’s back bay became a fine arts museum on historic Bent Street in Taos when Donna Heinley fell in love with New Mexico. The gallery features museum quality works that appeal to both the experienced collector and novices alike. heinleyfineartsw.com

COPPER MOON GALLERY Copper Moon represents a plethora of award-winning artists, making it a top destination for art in Taos. Don’t miss the Personal Mythologies exhibit, which runs through Sept. 15. coppermoongallerytaos.com

WAXLANDER ART GALLERY AND SCULPTURE GARDEN

On her 55th birthday in 1985, Phyllis Waxlander Kapp founded her eponymous gallery in a one-room studio. Thirty years later, it’s a 15-room Canyon Road landmark. waxlander.com

CULTURE CLUB

For more of our favorite galleries, shows, restaurants and more, visit doradomagazine.com/refined-living.

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PANORAMA INSIDER

Matt Wilson’s Durango Whitewater adventure, great tacos and a couple of local brews — just another summer day for this popular Colorado river guide BY E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N

or Matt Wilson, the best thing in Durango will always be the Animas River. But a man can’t live off whitewater alone, so we picked Wilson’s brain to find out what he loves to do, eat and drink when he’s not paddling through rapids with his company, 4 Corners Whitewater. W H E R E TO G O F O R E XT R A A DV E N T U R E

Vallecito Creek Wilson’s day job is, by nature, far from boring. But when he’s looking for an extra rush of adrenaline in the summer, he takes a kayak out to nearby Vallecito Creek for its Class V rapids. FAV O R I T E P O ST- R I V E R N O S H

Tacos Nayarit “An ideal day includes hours on the river followed by tacos and margaritas. This place has the best authentic Mexican food,” Wilson says.

Ska Brewing’s Mexican Logger Refreshing and easy to drink, but with actual flavor, this local lager is perfect after (or during) a day in the sun, Wilson says.

MAN ABOUT TOWN

Matt Wilson, owner of Durango-based 4 Corners Whitewater, takes a break from the rapids to share his favorite spots in southern Colorado’s Animas Valley.

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B E ST C U P O F CO F F E E

Raider Ridge Café For most Durangotangs, it usually comes down to Durango Joe’s or Durango Coffee Company. Wilson

THIS PAGE: BRUMLEY & WELLS. OPPOSITE: COURTESY MATT WILLIAMS.

B E ST B E E R F O R A S U M M E R DAY

Leave the Beaten Path Some of the best things that the Southwest has to offer are tucked away in small towns and remote wilderness.

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

Meet Matt and the rest of the 4 Corners Whitewater crew at doradomagazine.com/whitewater.

takes the road less traveled and gets caffeinated at Raider Ridge, which is nestled at the base of one of the town’s most beloved biking and hiking trails. FAVO R I T E S P O R T S T H AT A R E N ’ T I N A B O AT

All of Them According to Wilson’s rules, if you’re living in Durango and not getting outside a lot, you’re doing it wrong. “Skiing in the winter, running rivers in the summer and mountain biking year-round — we’ve got it all,” he says. B E ST S K I S P OT

Silverton When there’s snow, Wilson heads to the neighboring town of Silverton for its stunning backcountry trails. B E ST M O U N TA I N B I K I N G

Horse Gulch “The Horse Gulch area is so convenient for mountain biking and really varied as far as difficulty,” he says. “There are trails for every level of biker. But I also love to head out on the high-country rides in the summer for something more unique.”

W H E R E TO G O F O R G E A R

4Corners Riversports and Pine Needle Mountaineering

Take a hike in Arizona’s Lava River Cave doradomagazine.com/hidden-gem-lava-river-cave

Unlike Wilson, most of us aren’t equipped for Durango’s many adventures. “If you’re heading out on the river on your own, start with rentals from 4Corners. Pine Needle is my go-to for winter gear.” S P O R T TO T RY I F R A P I D S AREN’T YOUR THING

Stand-up Paddleboarding For a more Zen-like river experience that’s still a hell of a workout, grab a board, a paddle and your best sense of balance — and head to a slower section of the Animas.

Find a tropical oasis in the Fossil Springs Wilderness doradomagazine.com/hidden-gem-fossil-springs-az

FAV O R I T E P L A C E F O R DAT E NIGHT WITH HIS WIFE

The Office Spiritorium “She’s in school to be a physician assistant, so date nights aren’t happening a lot lately,” Wilson says. But when they do get out, they hit up this swanky cocktail lounge for drinks and live music.

Shop the best vintage in the Four Corners doradomagazine.com/everything-old-is-new-again

DORADOMAGAZINE.COM

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PANORAMA

ENVIRONMENT

From the Ground Up

In Colorado, seed savers are working to preserve the produce and plants of the Southwest

where our seeds come from. Businesses ulia Coffey believes that like Seeds Trust, founded in 1984 in sustainability begins with something Cornville, Arizona, by renowned seedsquite basic: seeds. To her, the annual man Bill McDorman, encourage the cycle of starting, growing and saving trend and provide growers with proven, seeds is fundamental to ensuring high-quality seeds. biodiversity on the table and in the Since its founding, Seeds Trust has garden. Coffey, 28, owns and runs helped promote and distribute Seeds Trust, a Littleton, both underappreciated speColorado-based seed procies, like the rattlesnake pole vider specializing in plants green bean, and new species, particularly suited to the arid, like Sasha’s Altai tomato, often-extreme environments of suited to the Western climate. the American Southwest. The rattlesnake beans produce “I believe in the philosophy Littleton-based Seeds pods without irrigation if behind this,” she says. “Seeds Trust is conserving the Southwest’s rich sown at the beginning of the are the most basic part of our biodiversity, storing and summer monsoon season. food structure, and I feel like selling seeds for plants like rattlesnake pole Sasha’s tomato, adapted for it’s the most important thing green beans. a short growing season and for me to work on, according to imported from Siberia by McDorman my beliefs.” in 1989, is now grown in thousands of Seeds Trust is one of about a dozen gardens and sold across the country. seed-saving organizations across the To the people behind them, seed country offering organic, heirloom and banks, seed libraries and seed trusts, climate-specific seeds. The growing each in their unique way, act as security trend toward cultivating local food measures against the homogenization sources has led to increased awareness of

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of horticulture. The philosophy behind saving seeds is taking the best produce from one season and transferring it to the next season, which often means leaving some of the produce on the vine or stem instead of conducting a complete harvest. Coffey bought Seeds Trust from McDorman and his wife in 2010 and moved the business from Cornville to Littleton. Today, her basement is crammed with jars and containers of seeds. Her windowsills and porch are crowded with plant boxes of sprouts. When someone places an order, Coffey prepares, packages and ships the seeds. “The most important part of this project is to encourage my customers not to come back,” Coffey says. “The idea is to take the seeds, plant them, save the seeds and plant them again next year.”

SOWING SUSTAINABILITY

To order seeds from Seeds Trust, visit seedstrust.com.

FROM TOP: AMY COVINGTON/STOCKSY; GAYL A TR AIL.

BY WILL GRANT

POSTCARDS

From t h e S ou t hwe s t Last year, Liz Nevin and Corey Jenkins decided to leave life in New York City behind for a cross-country journey, road-trip style. Take a peek at their time in the Four Corners.

1. Zion, Utah “We got snowed on in Zion, which was unexpected and beautiful.” 2. Delicate Arch, Utah “We quickly learned that you don’t want to get between a photographer and their sunset shot.” 3. Slot Canyons, Utah “A park ranger laughingly told us about a bad smell in the canyons—apparently a cow got stuck in one of these canyons and didn’t make it. It definitely is not for the claustrophobic.” 4. White Sands, New Mexico “We drove up and saw it off in the distance and were just in awe to see this huge expanse of white sand. Spending the night under the stars out there was pretty spectacular.”

PHOTOS BY LIZ NEVIN AND COREY JENKINS

5. Taos Earthship, New Mexico “The engineering behind these things is amazing—they use no electricity. It was 12 degrees outside, and when we walked in, it was totally warm.”

6. Grand Canyon, Arizona “Spending a night in the bottom of the Grand Canyon was a major highlight of the trip. Breathtaking.”

NATURE’S EYE CANDY

For more photos from Liz and Corey’s journey, visit ourfreeways.tumblr.com.

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OUTDOORS

TOE THE LINE What started as a way for rock climbers to sharpen their skills has evolved into a thrilling communal experience. Kate Siber ventures to the crag and discovers the world of slacklining PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMERON GARDNER

idden in the canyonlands beyond Moab, Utah, at the edge of a chasm named Fruit Bowl, a length of flat, narrow nylon webbing stretches between two juniper trees. The morning is crisp, dry and topped with a glorious blue sky unmarked by clouds. Expanses of reddish slickrock, studded with twisted trees and sagebrush, stretch to the horizon. But at this moment, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t notice all of that. Your attention is centered on staying balanced atop this slim piece of webbing known as a slackline. First you place one foot on the line, strung a few feet off the ground, then you step onto it in one fluid move. The line sways and wobbles under your weight, but the muscles in your arms, core and legs respond with tiny adjustments to maintain equilibrium. Your mind becomes clear and

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HIGH STEPPER

Julien Desforges traverses the Fruit Bowl, just outside of Moab, Utah. The canyon has lines that range from 20 feet to 120 feet across.

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ROCK GODS

Clockwise from top left: Off the line, slackliners often gather cliffside or around the campfire; Flip Hickson starts his day at sunrise; Hickson and Ray Diaz slackline with a webbed swami belt that is attached to the line; gear is backed up at least twice for safety.

focused on this all-encompassing task, and awareness of the rest of the world falls away. “When you first start off, you get that feeling of, ‘Wow, I’m walking on a 1-inch piece of webbing! This is crazy!’ says Cameron Gardner, a Los Angeles-based photographer visiting Moab to practice slacklining. “Once you get past that, it’s more of an active form of meditation. It’s about being there in the moment, and nothing else really matters except the next step.” Tightrope walking has been around for centuries, but slacklining — the sport of balancing on flat webbing strung between two anchor points, such as trees or rocks — was only born about four decades ago. It began as a way for rock climbers to hone their balance and concentration, then evolved into a social activity at campsites after a long day of climbing. In the past 10 years, the sport has become more popular among a wider set of outdoor enthusiasts and has branched into various disciplines. Slackliners, also known as slackers, now practice highlining over large gaps like canyons, waterlining over lakes and rivers, and even tricklining, which involves stunts like handstands and jump turns. Now, there’s even a professional group,

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YogaSlackers, that performs standing, sitting and inverted yoga postures on slacklines. Yoga postures are furthest from my mind when I venture onto a slackline myself. Even balancing on one sitz bone, feebly lifting my other leg off the ground, feels tenuous. Slacklining is a practice in rebounding from almost continuous failure, but this instant feedback accelerates learning. I get incrementally better and realize I haven’t felt so willing to fall since I was a kid. Soon I graduate to standing on the slackline. I center my foot on the webbing and stand decisively upon it, but it jettisons me every time. Finally, after a dozen tries, focusing my gaze on a point at the other end, I step up and, miraculously, stay aloft. My body responds intuitively to the vibrations of the line and for a few moments, it feels as if I am perfectly attuned to it. Part of the appeal of slacklining is its simplicity. To begin, all you need are a piece of webbing, a ratcheting mechanism, two anchors and some patience. Several companies sell ready-made kits that can be set up anywhere, but Moab is a favorite hub for the sport. A legendary rock-climbing destination, this southeast Utah adventure town has long hosted casual slackline sessions

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“It’s more of an active form of

Bureau of Land Management, the event takes place the week of Thanksgiving. At first, only about a dozen people showed up, but over the years, word spread. Now, several meditation. It’s about being there in hundred people appear, including world record holders and elite athletes. the moment, and nothing else really “When I first started, I was really freaked out,” says Ray Diaz, a semi-professional slackliner from San matters except the next step.” Clemente, California. “But you learn how to manage the fear. I had this realization that highlining is the same exact thing as slacklining in the park. You break through that barrier.” Although highliners are clipped by harness at its hundreds of campsites, but recently the community to the line, they often catch themselves when falling to has made a more concerted effort to embrace the sport. avoid extra stress on the equipment, which is typically Unlike some cities that have banned slacklining in public retired after a certain number of falls. parks mainly out of concern for trees, Moab opened a Come evening, slackliners gather around campfires and dedicated park for the activity in 2013. And thanks to an those with guitars lazily riff chords and melodies. They feel abundance of canyons and tower-like rock formations, the the air temperature drop and watch the stars freckle the area beyond city limits now features hundreds of estabclear sky. In the morning, they awake to do it all over again, lished locations for highlines. emerging from tents to marvel at the giant dome of blue “It’s the biggest mecca for highlining in the world,” says overhead, the spectacular sweeps of water-carved sandBrian Mosbaugh, a Moab-based professional slackliner stone, and the beautiful, sinuous limbs of ancient-seeming who has helped pioneer many areas with the Moab trees — a fine backdrop for a moving meditation. Monkeys, a group of young local adventurers. “Being out there in the canyonlands, To celebrate the sport, eight years ago, it’s so quiet it feels like you can hear the Mosbaugh and several other local slacklinTHE GREAT OUTDOORS hum of the universe,” Diaz says. “The sceners started an informal annual gathering For more of our favorite ery is unbelievable. You can’t even take in called Gobble Gobble Bitches Yeah. Held Southwestern adventures, visit doradomagazine.com/greatoutdoors. what you’re seeing. I wake up and I’m like, on the flat rocks surrounding the Fruit ‘Wow, this place has serious magic.’” Bowl canyon, in an area overseen by the

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IN TOWN

SHOWTIME

The Reverend Horton Heat joins Willie Nelson and Waylon Jennings in having played Flagstaff’s Museum Club.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM CLUB Once billed as the “world’s largest log cabin,” this former Route 66 taxidermy museum is now the ultimate music venue. Celeste Sepessy travels to Flagstaff to catch a show P H OTO G R A P H Y BY RYA N W I L L I AMS

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t’s saturday night and the dance floor’s split: Clubmasters and cuffed jeans versus Stetson hats and cowboy boots. However, there’s no rivalry here. The band is on, the lights are low and everybody — young bucks and old-timers alike — is here to dance away the worries of the working week. Up on the stage, Pat Roberts and the Heymakers are giving dancers an upbeat rockabilly groove to move to — imagine a blend of classic country-western and early rock ’n’ roll. Coiffed pompadour and sideburns, cowboy shirt with pearly snaps, straight-leg jeans with a 1950s cuff and a bandanna tied around his neck to top it off — Roberts not only sounds like the perfect marriage of Elvis and Johnny Cash, he looks the part too. “Good rockin’ lady won’t do me wrong,” he croons, shooting a sidelong glance at Amanda Lee, his bass player and best gal. She’s hard to miss, with a baby-blue Western dress lined with fringe as white as her victory-rolled locks.

LOG JAM

A Route 66 roadside attraction, the former Dean Eldredge Museum and Taxidermist once featured 30,000 specimens in the “world’s largest log cabin.”

It’s Roberts’ first time playing The Museum Club in Flagstaff — a monumental occasion for this Arizona native who got his start playing Prescott’s Whiskey Row at 17. In the late ’60s, Roberts’ older brother bought the Rod Hart & The Hustlers album Live At Don Scott’s Museum Club. “We didn’t have that many albums, so we listened to that record about a thousand times,” he says. “The Museum Club became legendary in our minds.” Hunkered down on historic Route 66, The Museum Club really is legendary. Equal parts music venue, bar and tourist trap, the Flagstaff club has provided a country-western oasis to college students, natives and travelers alike for decades. But the massive log cabin isn’t just a rowdy refuge. The Museum Club is Flagstaff, according to Martin Zanzucchi, who owned the club from 1978 to 2003. The retired Flagstaff native still owns the property. “It really represents Flagstaff ’s history on Route 66,” he says of the building, which he listed on both the Arizona and National Registers of Historic Places in 1994. “You have to think about Route 66 back then; business owners

needed attention-getting devices to lure travelers into these places.” Built in 1931, The Museum Club was originally the Dean Eldredge Museum and Taxidermist, and Arizona’s own version of Ripley’s Believe It or Not. Eldredge — “a collector of fine and unusual objects” who was covered in tattoos, as Zanzucchi describes him — packed the museum with more than 30,000 eccentric specimens, including a two-headed calf, countless Indian curios and a six-legged lamb. It’s unsurprising that visitors quickly dubbed the museum “The Zoo.” Two stuffed mountain lions prowled atop the building, which Eldredge billed as the largest log cabin in the world. (He would later tout it as the biggest in the country, then state.) Eldredge died of cancer, and the end of Prohibition brought a new owner, saddle maker Doc Williams, and a new purpose: nightclub. It was a success, to say the least, but it wasn’t until 1963 when The Museum Club truly came into its own. “Don Scott is really the fella that put the club on the J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

PARTY ANIMALS

Not much has changed at “The Zoo,” including its rustic interior and stuffed inhabitants.

map,” Zanzucchi admits. Scott, who played steel guitar for western swing legend Bob Wills and His Texas Playboys, decided he had enough of the touring life. His solution? Raise his family in Flagstaff and run the state’s most successful country music club. Under Scott’s ownership, Bob Wills, Willie Nelson, Wanda Jackson, Waylon Jennings and a flood of others (many of whom were his friends) poured through the club on their way to Las Vegas or Los Angeles. “If you were a star in the ’60s and you were traveling Route 66, you had to come through Arizona, and you had to play at The Museum Club,” Zanzucchi explains. Even better, Scott used his reel-to-reel recorder to tape the best performances. One such recorded performance: Roberts’ well-worn record of Rod Hart & The Hustlers’ album Live At Don Scott’s Museum Club. Some 50 years later, nothing much has changed. Inside, neon signs glow against the wood-plank dance floor polished smooth from decades of boot soles dancing in the night. A wilderness of taxidermy animals overlooks the regulars, who are likely nursing a beer under the cabin’s wagon wheel and antler chandeliers. Two bars flank the dance floor; on one, a blackboard advertises future shows “Coming to The Zoo.” The Museum Club’s reputation as northern Arizona’s go-to country-western venue certainly holds strong. As in decades past, The Zoo is a little bit country, a little bit rock ’n’ roll. Depending on the night, you’ll find national

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touring acts, such as leading country artist Jo Dee Messina and psychobilly group The Reverend Horton Heat, or local favorites like vintage honky-tonk band Trailer Queen. Brea Burns, Trailer Queen’s perfectly classic frontwoman, sees the club as a time capsule. “It’s keeping what music is really about alive. It’s a throwback to simpler times,” she says. In recent years, it was common to have a line out the door, according to Gary Nelson, the club’s general manager in the early ’90s. The Zanzucchi days were always packed, thanks to Flagstaff ’s “pretty jumping” bar scene and a steady flow of great musicians. Its nickname, The Zoo, also took on a whole new dynamic; the club drew a rowdy crowd looking for — perhaps a bit too much — fun. “That’s what happens when you mix country music and alcohol, and stir vigorously,” Nelson says. These days, you’ll see the joint packed for Wednesday’s dime beer night, the weekend and big-name concerts. But the crowd and their reasons for visiting The Zoo are the same; white-haired cowboys (and their girls) and slick greasers alike slide across the dance floor to the most iconic music of decades past — and present. And some even come for the ghost stories, which are aplenty. Scott and his wife died in the building, and many believe their spirits have stayed behind. Maybe they fell in love with the place like so many others, Zanzucchi says. “It’s one of a kind. They don’t want to leave.”

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AT HOME

ART HOUSE A Texas couple dreamed of a home in the rolling hills of Santa Fe that showcased their spectacular art collection. Erinn Morgan finds a minimalist masterpiece of glass and light

eanne and michael klein instantly loved the rugged Santa Fe hillside that would one day incorporate their second home — and a celebration of both art and nature. “This land was appealing to us because you could see the changing colors of the dramatic New Mexico sky to the west and also view the high alpine mountains to the east,” says Jeanne. In addition, the 20-acre space backed right up to the Santa Fe National Forest. Impassioned art collectors from Texas, the Kleins’ vision was to build a stunning, modern glass home where they could live, day to day, with spectacular, contemporary pieces while also celebrating the sublime natural

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POINT OF VIEW

A structural glass wall — the first of its kind in North America — is the only support for the Klein home’s cantilevered roof.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FR ANK OUDEMAN (2), DAVID MARLOW. FR ANK OUDEMAN, DAVID MARLOW. PREVIOUS SPREAD: FR ANK OUDEMAN.

landscape. “With [architect] Mark [DuBois], we were able to be adventurous and build a glass house in the desert,” explains Jeanne. “We wanted an abundance of glass to really live in nature, but we also had this art collection that we wanted to build a house for.” The Kleins’ art collection includes pieces by contemporary and minimalist masters Ellsworth Kelly, Kiki Smith, Richard Serra and Donald Judd. “We didn’t want to build a separate structure for the art. We wanted to walk through it every day — all day,” says Jeanne. Since the 8,000-square-foot Klein home was built just outside Santa Fe 10 years ago, it has been acclaimed as among the finest American homes built for art. One of the centerpieces is an Ellsworth Kelly sculpture around which the living room was designed. Another key piece: a James “We didn’t want to Turrell Skyspace, embedded into the center of the house. It offers build a separate a contemplative space in which to experience the ever-changing structure for the Southwest sky. Ensuring the perfect placeart. We wanted to ment for the home’s vital art pieces, the Kleins and DuBois, of walk through it New York City-based Ohlhausen DuBois Architects, positioned every day — all day.” the art before the house was even designed. Then DuBois created huge hallways where the art is placed. These linear spaces are juxtaposed against big, open living areas accented by glass walls. “As an architect, you have to really understand what your clients are looking for,” DuBois says. “In the case of the Kleins, they love the outdoors, they’re very social people, and they also have a spectacular art collection. Our challenge was to feel really connected to the landscape but also create a fabulous place for living with art.” The Klein home uses a simple, elegant materials palette of concrete, basalt, zinc, walnut — and lots of glass. A unique structural glass wall that passes through the center of the home is the only support for the structure’s cantilevered roof. According to DuBois, this utilization of structural glass is the first of its kind in North America. From design to completion, this home project took more than 3 years. DuBois notes that the design went fairly quickly, but the implementation of the structural glass wall added time to the schedule. “We worked very closely with the contractor, fabricator and a British engineer in New York City,” says DuBois, who adds that key people from the engineer’s firm went on to design all the Apple stores with load-bearing glass. “We actually built a full-sized glass panel as a mock-up and sent it to a lab for testing since this was the first time load-bearing glass was used in North America — and there was no way to know if it was going to work.” DuBois points to the fact that the Kleins’ interest in exploring this design element speaks to their adventurous and courageous nature. “They’re really interested in

PERSONAL SPACE

Clockwise from top left: Concrete provides a soft, textured backdrop for the Kleinsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; art; clean lines and glass allow the New Mexico landscape to take center stage; a James Turrell Skyspace offers a spot to contemplate the changing Southwestern sky; designers used an elegant palette of basalt, zinc and walnut throughout the home; a sunshade runs the length of the house, softening sunlight and creating a modern shaded porch.

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A WELCOME SIGHT

Specially designed trails, colorful plantings and outdoor art installations lead to the guesthouse.

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of the house softens the light and also creates a porch underneath it.” The Turrell Skyspace — a cube that is 20 feet by 20 feet by 20 feet with a sky viewing space cut from the top and open to elements — also required special consideration to integrate it into the home. “It’s such a simple thing, but it is so powerful,” says DuBois, who sank the Skyspace area 4 feet into the ground with stairs for access. “Turrell makes us appreciate how our perception works.” The Kleins’ collection also extends outside the home into the natural land surrounding it. “We made trails around the house with Andy Goldsworthy, and we have five pieces of his art there,” Jeanne says. “We also have extended trails with installations by other artists — those trails hook up with the National Forest trails.” In the end, the Kleins have realized their dream to live with art and nature. “Different years, different weeks, I change my mind on what I love most about this home,” Jeanne says. “But there is no question that my favorite thing is that I live with the art every day — and every day I am walking through art.”

HOME TOUR: CABIN FEVER

See how one family transformed a dark, dated cabin into a contemporary retreat at doradomagazine.com/cabinfever.

FR ANK OUDEMAN

exploring new things,” he says. “They treated this a little bit like an art piece — they were creating an environment.” An engineering success, the Klein home’s sheer walls of glass ultimately fuse the indoors with the outdoors, realizing their goal of living in the natural setting. “As you sit there you get this gorgeous view of the mountains and you get to see the changing colors and storms coming in — it’s just so beautiful to be able to experience this glass,” says Jeanne. The profusion of glass, however, also delivers a plethora of light into the house, creating a challenge for showcasing the Kleins’ artwork. “Most collectors build houses with beautiful, elegant white rooms with light that is very controlled,” says DuBois. “But then you can’t really appreciate the home’s natural setting. We had the challenge of embracing the landscape but making the art really sing.” Concrete was used as an unusual yet highly effective backdrop for the Kleins’ collection. “I didn’t know how much I would love the gray background for my art when I was used to white backgrounds,” says Jeanne. “I love the texture and color of the concrete as a backdrop.” Much of the featured artwork is located in long hallways that are protected from light variations. In addition, a long, frosted glass sunshade was built through the center of the house to temper the strong New Mexico light. “The sun in Santa Fe is so intense we needed to filter it,” says DuBois. “The sunscreen that runs the whole length

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HEAVEN

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BREAK A FEW EGGS

Dishes like Blaker Standard — two poached farm eggs on brown rice with sautéed organic greens and poblano crema — have made Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm in Boulder, Utah, a cult destination restaurant.

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HEAVEN CAN WAIT

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In remote southern Utah, Jen Murphy finds Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm is creating culinary experiences more than worth the drive

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A pioneer in the farm-totable movement, Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm lures foodies to rural Boulder, Utah, with the promise of extraordinarily fresh and inventive cooking like Springtime Carrot Soup with Steeped Chive Oil.

J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

TRY THESE HELL’S BACKBONE KITCHEN FAVORITES:

Shepherd’s Goat Cheese Fondue 1 ¼ cup chevre-style goat cheese 8-ounce package cream cheese in chunks 3 tablespoons chardonnay Pinch of nutmeg 2 tablespoons Bonny Doon Muscat Vin de Glacière or other ice wine Combine all ingredients in saucepan, stirring constantly over low heat. Whisk smooth before serving and keep fondue warm over a candle in a fondue set. Serve with black-pepper crackers and organic apple or apricot slices.

Sugar Snap Peas in Brown Butter With Mint 2 pounds sugar snap peas 1 teaspoon sugar ¼ cup butter ¼ cup mint Salt to taste Fill a saucepan with lightly salted water 1 inch deep. Bring to a boil and add the sugar and peas. Simmer on low 5 minutes, until peas are bright green and tender, with a little crunch left. While peas simmer, melt butter in small saucepan over mediumhigh heat until bubbling and brown. Toss peas with brown butter, chopped mint, and salt to taste. Serve warm.

YOU WON’T FIND an ATM or even a stoplight in Boulder, Utah, but you will find a pioneering farm-to-table restaurant that serves some of the most delicious organic meals in America. One of the most remote towns in the lower 48, Boulder is set on the edge of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The remoteness is what initially drew Blake Spalding and Jen Castle, the owners of Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm, to this town of just 200 people. Both women had been Grand Canyon river cooks. “We knew the power of wilderness, scenic beauty and a good meal,” Spalding says. When the women opened the restaurant in 1999 farm-to-table was still an anomaly in America. “Back then there was this idea that food was only fancy if it came from far away, so people served lobster in Los Angeles and Chilean sea bass in Maine,” Spalding says. “There wasn’t a reverence for locally sourced food like there is today.” While restaurants such as Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, began to receive accolades for its visionary work with farmers, Spalding and Castle were quietly cooking three meals a day from organic ingredients grown on their 6-plusacre farm. Whispers of insanely good blue corn pancakes with whipped cinnamon butter and Spicy Green Chile Juniper Lamb Posole prepared in middleof-nowhere Utah started to bring the restaurantfarm into the spotlight. Today, Hell’s Backbone has become a cult destination restaurant for rarefied diners. “People make reservations a year

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in advance,” says Spalding. “We have an outdoor communal table where we try to accommodate walk-ins.” Even though the restaurant now attracts the attention of the food world, Spalding and Castle still run the place on the same principles they started with 16 years ago. Everything in the kitchen is prepared from scratch, from the jams to the oatmeal molasses bread that Spalding has been baking since she was 8 years old. Both women are practicing Buddhists and operate Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm with a commitment to sustainability, environmental ethics, and social and community responsibility. They’re steadfast in their commitment to only working with humanely raised animals. One year they couldn’t find a good supply chain of chicken so there was no chicken on the menu that year. And in a time when $200 tasting menus are en vogue, Hell’s Backbone remains affordable. Dinner entrées range from $18 to $38, and the restaurant offers a weed and feed deal, where guests can work four hours on the farm in return for dinner. “We don’t want to make food just for the 1 percent,” Spalding says. “We want to feed teachers and river guides too. After all, that’s how we started.” BURGERS AND A BAND

Enjoy a warm summer evening at James Ranch, where the outdoor setting is almost as good as the beef. Watch at doradomagazine.com/jamesranch.

A PLACE TO SAVOR

From far left: Former Grand Canyon river cooks Blake Spalding and Jen Castle; their restaurant, Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm in southern Utah, near Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument; Spicy Green Chile Juniper Lamb Posole.

ILLUSTR ATIONS BY CL AIRE McCR ACKEN

SOUL FOOD

For these artisan food makers, a taste of the Southwest starts with a passion for quality ingredients BY JEN MURPHY

James Ranch

Blue Cattle Truck Trading Co.

New Mexico Piñon Coffee Co.

Wingfield Bread Co.

Durango, Colorado

Springville, Utah

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Camp Verde, Arizona

When the James children told their dad they wanted to return to the family’s 400-acre cattle ranch just north of Durango, David James told them to bring something to the table. “Dad started with beef and now we’ve become a food hub,” says Dan James. Jenn and her husband, Joe Wheeling, run the organic garden; Julie and her husband, John Ott, tend approximately 500 hens; Dan and his wife, Becca, raise Jersey cows and turn the milk into cheese. The ranch’s bounty gets sold at the on-site market and daughter Cynthia and her husband, Robert Stewart, use it in burgers and grilled cheese sandwiches sold from their ranch food cart. jamesranch.net

When Molly Anderson couldn’t find a good vanilla in American markets she drove over the border to its birthplace, Veracruz, in search of the best beans. “Mexican vanilla beans are much more nuanced than vanilla grown anywhere else in the world,” says her daughter and partner, Amy Rasmussen. Anderson works with a family in Veracruz who has grown vanilla for more than 100 years. The farmers cure and dry hand-picked beans for 90 days just like the Aztecs. The beans are then cold-pressed, following a secret family recipe that yields a smooth, rich vanilla extract. Even Martha Stewart is a fan. mexicanvanilla.com

Coffee beans are often associated with exotic lands such as Ethiopia or Guatemala. But the aromas from a pot of New Mexico Piñon Coffee evoke the Land of Enchantment. Nuts from the piñon pine, New Mexico’s state tree, are roasted and ground together with coffee beans to create a sweet, hazelnut-like brew. The namesake blend was originally sold from the back of a red pickup truck. Twenty years later, New Mexico Piñon Coffee Co. is the state’s largest roaster, offering more than 50 flavors. The best-seller, biscochito, tastes like the anise and cinnamon state cookie it’s named after. nmpinoncoffee.com

After Rachelle Pozza dreamed of people in pioneer bonnets she moved to Camp Verde, Arizona. “At the time I didn’t understand what it meant,” she says. “Then I learned that my family had been pioneers here.” A mother of seven, Pozza first started baking simply as a way to feed her family nutritious foods. Three years ago she opened a bakery in Wingfield Plaza, where her great-grandfather once had a mercantile shop. Pozza mills her own flour and bakes loaves such as pecan sourdough and whole-wheat pumpernickel. “A lot of European clients say they haven’t tasted bread like this since they’ve been home,” Pozza says. 928-301-9300

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LOCAL FLAVOR A riot of organic vegetables, smoky meats and

divine treats — the Santa Fe Farmers Market may be the city’s best feast. Stephanie Pearson digs in PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABRIELLA MARKS

EVERY SATURDAY MORNING in Santa Fe the locals partake in an almost sacred weekly ritual. They wake with the sun and make their way, as early as 7 a.m. in the summer, preferably via foot or bike, to the Railyard. Just a few blocks southwest of the Plaza, this gentrifying cluster of modern-art galleries is anchored by

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the Santa Fe Farmers Market, an institution that started back in the 1960s when local farmers sold organic produce out of the back of their pickup trucks. Today the market has a membership of 150 vendors who sell everything from organic greens to stone-ground polenta to grass-fed beef year-round under a LEED-certified pavilion built especially for them. The sensory overload starts with a Mexican accordionist, a six-piece bluegrass band, or a classical guitarist jamming out to seasonally shifting aromas, maybe grilled kimchi pancakes, freshly cut peonies or roasting green chile. Most local shoppers are in a rush to reach their favorite booth before the vendor sells out

PRIME EATS Be sure to visit these vendors on your next trip to the Santa Fe Farmers Market BY STEPHANIE PEARSON

SHOP AROUND

From grass-fed organic beef to fresh-roasted green chile to bunches of flowers, the Santa Fe Farmers Market is a kaleidoscope of culinary experiences, especially in the summer. Chefs from all across the city scope out the produce, retirees shop for Santa Fe Opera parties and young families stroller around for the week’s grocery supply.

Green Tractor Farm On their La Cienega farm Mary and Tom Dixon, along with daughter Rachel, grow some of the most coveted veggies at the market, including greens, peppers, radishes and tomatoes.

Red Mesa Meats Proprietor Jim Whitaker sells a smoky sweet sausage mixed with a secret blend of spices he concocted at the request of the famed Cafe Pasqual’s near the Plaza. To make eating and shopping easy, it’s served on a stick.

ILLUSTR ATIONS BY CL AIRE McCR ACKEN

Rey Romero Farm his coveted arugula or artisanal goat cheese, but it’s nearly impossible not to first stop off at Café Fresh, the hub in the middle of the pavilion, where shoppers are lined up for organic Whoo’s Donuts (try the maple bacon with dark chocolate glaze and chile brown sugar), hand-held green-chile breakfast burritos and steaming cups of organic coffee. Almost every U.S. city offers its own variation of a farmers market, but few have set the bar as high as Santa Fe: 80 percent of the vendors here are required to offer minimally processed agricultural goods, and all of the vendors must grow, raise or produce their goods within the 15 northern counties of New Mexico. And that includes the wheat in the

bakery products, the fruit in the jams and the meat from the lamb. Further, the person who grew it also has to sell it — no resellers are allowed here. These strict rules and the farmers who abide by them are why you’ll be rubbing elbows every week with some of the finest chefs in Santa Fe, from Roland Richter of Joe’s Dining — an old-school, classic diner with a sustainable, local food twist on the city’s south side — to Andrew Cooper of Four Seasons Resort’s Terra in the foothills north of town. Add Matt Yohalem of Il Piatto and Patrick Gharrity from La Casa Sena, two long-standing greats, and you’ll need to arrive early enough before they buy the place out.

Rey Romero may not have much to say, but his just-right roasted green chile stands out among standouts, which speaks for itself.

Red Mountain Farm At his farm in Abiquiu, the famed one-time home of artist Georgia O’Keeffe, Jeff Nitz goes above and beyond stone-grinding polenta from grains that he has grown.

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A PLACE AT THE

TABLE Welcome your loved ones to the

table with place settings that reflect the warmth and style of the Southwest — whatever the occasion PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE LESUEUR • STYLING BY ANN EDGERTON

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WEEKEND FIESTA

Wood platter, $30; nesting bowls, $70/pair; pitcher, $120; all available at Spartan, Austin. Silverware, $115/five-piece set, available at Breed & Co., Austin. Wood riser, $30; corkscrew, $48; glass with wicker cozy, $115/set of six; all available at Wendow, Austin. Striped table linen, $54; embroidered coaster, $62; both available at JM Drygoods, Austin. Wine glasses, available at By George South Congress, Austin, $45. Place setting box, Jan Barboglio, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.

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TAPAS AND WINE

GET INSPIRED!

For a more formal tablescape idea, visit doradomagazine.com/tablescape.

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Large plate, X plate and bowl, $32$38; available at Logan Wannamaker, Taos. Water glass, spoon rest, and brass fork and spoon, $12-$135; all available at Spartan, Austin. Stone bowl, $115; available at Wendow, Austin. Bread plate, $5; available at Crate & Barrel. Cutting board and wine glass, $42-$150; available at Saint Cloud, Houston. Cheese knife, $23; available at Breed & Co. Butter knife, vintage. Salt cellar, $48; available at By George South Congress, Austin. Linen square, $24; available at JM Drygoods. Serving spoon, $30, set of two; available at Sur La Table.

SUNDAY BRUNCH

Charger and plates, $38-$265; pitcher, $47; teacup, $85; wine glass, $35; all available at Breed & Co., Austin. Small gray glasses, $7; marble flower, $50; table linen, $28; linen napkin, $30; salt cellar, $10; all available at Wildflower Organics, Austin. Sterling silver compote, $160; olive forks and spoon, $130$200; glass creamer, $135; all available at Wendow, Austin. Christofle fork and spoon, $107, available at Beringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Houston. Laguiole steak knife, $49.95/set of six, available at Crate & Barrel.

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CAST AWAY

RIVER TO SKILLET

It doesn’t get much fresher than at the Broadmoor Fishing Camp, where general manager and 20year guide Scott Tarrant teaches the basics of flyfishing on the Tarryall Creek.

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Just beyond the mountains west of Colorado Springs runs the Tarryall Creek, where former miners cabins have been transformed into a rustic-chic fishing camp that offers one-on-one instruction and simple pleasures. For Lois Friesland, the catch of the day is almost too pretty to eat

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT NAGER

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et’s go throw some fur,” my fishing guide says with a big grin. Startled, I have to think for a minute before remembering that Scott Tarrant makes all his flies with fur and feathers, each one designed to look like the bugs trout consider prime meals. “I lash pieces of animal fur and feathers together onto a hook and make it look like the invertebrates in the water — then try and trick the trout into eating them,” he explains. Sounds simple. Yes? Well, not exactly, for a newbie like me. I lurch after him, catching my long fly rod on a bush, as we walk to a private stretch of water on the Tarryall Creek in front of the Broadmoor Fishing Camp. I feel like I’m in kindergarten again learning my ABCs, so I mentally clutch onto Scott’s remark that fly-fishing is really easy. (A comment I later realize is an oversimplification.)

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Scott, who has been guiding for more than 20 years and is now general manager of the new Broadmoor Fishing Camp, puts a stonefly nymph lure on my line and a mayfly nymph a few feet below, explaining we are going dry fly-fishing. He shows me how to roll cast, a technique used when you’re standing among bushes and trees. I promptly catch my fly on a bush sticking out of the river. He cheerfully wades in and pulls it loose. Cast your line in the water, mend it slowly so it looks like the bug is drifting, I chant to myself quietly. No tugs. Whip it out and flick the line in again. He does it so gracefully — why can’t I? “We’re not casting the fly. We’re casting the line,” he says. “We’re just creating potential energy, then converting it to kinetic energy. Let the rod shoot the line out to the trout.” After he grabs my hand and guides me through the flow of the movement, I begin to get it. Each time, my line goes out farther. Emboldened, I wade into the water. Stepping carefully on the rocky riverbed, I feel like the Michelin Man, stuffed into waders with turquoise Neoprene booties that

match my turquoise baseball hat emblazoned with “Broadmoor Fishing Camp.” My casts get smoother, but the fly on my line still doesn’t tempt any fish. Scott’s sidekick, Blue, a 3-month-old golden retriever, sticks his button-size nose in the water searching for fish. Nothing. Scott grabs the net he uses to capture fish reeled in on a line and places a small weave bag, which he calls a seine, over it. As he sweeps the net through the water to scoop up bugs, he tells me, “My seine is the portal to the fishing gods.” He picks out a mayfly, a caddis and then a stonefly from the dozens

of miniscule bugs trapped in the strands and thrusts them toward me in a hand battered from tying flies. The fish, bugs and the river are one big ecosystem, he explains, tying together the life cycle of the bugs as calories for the fish. “You are matching the natural biomass found throughout the different sections of water you are fishing in. This is critical to a successful day of fly-fishing.” Listening, I’m discovering that a day on the water is more than catching trout. His joy of fly-fishing bubbles over: “Every day you’re on the river, you get to watch the whole world being reborn. I have the coolest job ever.”

BEST SHOTS The Southwest offers hunters a bounty of options. While these choice locales may not promise success, they do offer plenty of opportunity BY PETER O’DOWD

The San Francisco Peaks North of Flagstaff, Arizona The San Francisco Peaks tower more than 12,000 feet over Flagstaff. Native Americans have revered the range for centuries, and it’s easy to see why. The Peaks Hunt area is mostly offlimits to vehicles. Travel on foot or horseback through Alpine meadows and groves of quaking aspen and ponderosa pine. WILDLIFE: Hunters come for the trophy elk, but watch for mule deer and Merriam’s turkeys.

ILLUSTR ATIONS BY CL AIRE McCR ACKEN

WHEN TO GO: This is a physically challenging hunt. Get into shape and go in the fall when the elk are rutting and the aspens are at their golden peak.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

The author and Scott inspect their seine, a small-weave bag that sweeps through the water to collect flies. Opposite: The reels, rods, hooks, flies, fishing line and nets needed for a day on the river.

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Comanche National Grassland Outside Springfield, Colorado Colorado is famous for its mountains, but travel to the southeast corner of the state and you’ll find some of the state’s best grassland hunting. The amber waves march unimpeded toward the horizon. On the prairie, you’ll hear nothing but wind through the grass and the coo of a mourning dove. WILDLIFE: If you can get close enough, put your sights on a pronghorn. If the rains have come, look for the teal and other waterfowl. Coyotes and jack rabbits are plentiful. WHEN TO GO: Summer is the busiest season. Go early October for pronghorns.

The Broadmoor Fishing Camp has access to 5 miles of private water on the Tarryall, so after a few hours of fishing still water we move. Scott takes my husband, Richard, to where the water moves faster and fish lurk in pools or behind rocks, darting out to snatch bugs swimming by. I learn that before casting a line I should let the water tell me what to do. Are the trout looking up, or are they deep in the water? Flycasting takes finesse, and that’s why women often get it more than men, Scott proclaims. I grin at his words, while standing ankledeep in the water balancing on rocks. Richard, who caught the first fish of the day, casts his rod downstream. Now it’s my turn, I decide, hoping the fishing gods agree. I feel a tug, but the fish doesn’t like the fly and moves on. Another grabs the fly and I tug the rod slightly sideways to hook the fish. The rod tip bends and I hang on, excitedly following Scott’s directions to bring the fish in through the rocks dotting the river. He scoops the fish up, and I stare at a beautiful rainbow trout. As it wiggles in the net, the iridescent scales turn green, blue and pink. I think about cooking the trout, but it’s so beautiful that my husband takes a picture of me holding it, and I toss it back in the river. Scott taps my arm and points at a red-tailed hawk flying overhead. “For a trout, death comes from above,” he says. “Hawks, bears, us.” It puts the concept of fly-fishing in perspective for me. The Broadmoor Fishing Camp is located in South Park, a vast grassland basin situated

about 10,000 feet above sea level, where ranchers settled in the 1800s and gold miners followed. Driving over the Continental Divide on Kenosha Pass, the road descends quickly and you’re stunned by the raw beauty of the landscape that was created by a prehistoric sea. The jagged mountainsides of the Mosquito and Park ranges bracket the basin, which sprawls across roughly 1,000 square miles. We pass remnants of barns, outhouses and long-abandoned homes, barely standing reminders of the hard lives led by early settlers. At first glance, the fishing camp looks primitive, with its 1880s miners cabins that have been turned into guest quarters. But knowing that the camp is one of the perennially five-diamond, five-star Broadmoor resort’s wilderness offerings, designed for guests who want an authentic outdoor experience, we’re eager to start fishing and learn how guests will be treated. We’ve come for a day fishing trip three weeks before the camp opens in late May. I peek into the hand-hewn log cabins being restored and decide that staying in one of the seven tiny miners cabins, guests might easily be transported back to an earlier era. Today, however the chinking between the logs is solid, the tiny windows are new and the buildings are heated. I’d opt for the Tabeguache cabin, because it has a parlor and a bathroom. The one-room Ponderosa, with its porch just yards from the river, will be the most popular of the three cabins without bathrooms. Avid fishermen I’ve spoken with say they’d be fine

Rocky Mountain Trout Cast Iron Classic with Smoked Bacon, Brown Butter, Lemon and Parsley INGREDIENTS

1 trout filet ¼ c up smoked bacon, cubed 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 whole lemon

1 tablespoon parsley, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon green onion, chopped Salt and pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat a pan on the stove to medium to high heat. Add bacon and butter into warm pan and allow to brown. Do not over cook the bacon before cooking fish. Season the fish evenly with salt and pepper on both sides. When bacon is slightly underdone, carefully place trout inside the pan skin side down. Allow the skin on the trout to crisp. Flip the trout using a spatula, and stir bacon to allow even cooking. Adjust heat if needed. Remove the fish after it is fully cooked and place on a plate. Add parsley and green onion to the butter and bacon in the pan, and squeeze lemon into sauce. Pour finished sauce onto the cooked fish and enjoy with a fresh slice of lemon. Serve with your favorite vegetables.

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Fishlake National Forest Bordering Richfield, Utah This stunning national forest in south-central Utah is home to 3,000 acres of mountain lakes and reservoirs, and 1,000 miles of trails. In 2008, a hunter on nearby Monroe Mountain took down perhaps the largest elk ever found in the wild. The famous “Spider Bull” is known to envious outdoorsmen across the West. WILDLIFE: This is angler country. Snag a 50-pound mackinaw or a rainbow trout in the aptly named Fish Lake. Elk, mountain goats and cougars roam these forests.

BAIT AND SWITCH

The camp has access to 5 miles of private water on the Tarryall River, which means plenty of opportunity to find a new spot when the fish aren’t biting.

using the new Bath House. In true Broadmoor style, the Bath House blends the setting’s rustic ambiance in its stone, wood and tin and there are private dressing areas, showers, and soaps and lotions designed for Colorado’s altitude and climate. As we explore, I picture how guests spend their days: The most ardent anglers will cast a line into the river as the rising sun burns off mist clinging to the water. Through the morning, they’ll walk along the Tarryall’s oxbow curves, searching for trout swimming through the still water. The fishing camp menus have been developed by David Patterson, The Broadmoor’s executive sous chef, but the staff here prepares the meals and serves family-style dinners. Guests who catch trout may gather in the kitchen to watch or help Scott prepare a classic cast-iron trout dish. You don’t have to overnight at the fishing camp to cast a line in this private water on the Tarryall River, because The Broadmoor offers guided day trips. You can arrange an introduction to fly-fishing at the Fish House, which sits by a pond on the sixth fairway of the resort’s East Course. In anticipation of spending a day on the Tarryall, we took a lesson at the pond.

WHEN TO GO: Never tried ice fishing? Go in winter.

Our guide, Randy Babas, quickly made me feel comfortable by saying, “There’s no right way or wrong way to fly-fish.” Good to know because on my first cast the line dribbles into the water barely a body’s length from my feet. The second cast goes farther, but on the third one, the hook snags my sleeve, and Randy detaches it. So he shouldn’t feel slighted, I swing the rod again and catch his jacket. While removing the hook he cracked with a smile, “It’s catch and release here. But, we also use hooks without barbs so guides won’t get hurt.” I gradually get the rhythm — keep your bent elbow by your side, swing the rod back, pause, then whip it forward. Suddenly I feel a tug on the line. “I got a fish,” I squeal. Randy coaches me nonstop once he sees the rod bending in a 180-degree arc: Maintain the line so just the tip of the rod is bent; strip the line, and let the fish run a bit. Finally, he scoops a 12-pound trout into a net as I jump up and down, screaming like a teenager at a rock concert. Randy helps me hold it long enough for Richard to take a picture. With a twist of its body, the fish leaps back into the pond. Sure it was beginner’s luck, but it made me want to race to the fishing camp and cast another line in the water.

Pecos Wilderness Area Northeast of Santa Fe, New Mexico Nestled in the Santa Fe National Forest, this pristine wilderness area is off-limits to trucks and ATVs. All the better to hear the roar of the Pecos River, which originates high in the nearby mountains. The wild ribbon of water cuts through the forest to create ideal habitat for big game. WILDLIFE: It’s one of the few

places in New Mexico to hunt the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. The Pecos is also home to elk, deer, black bears and blue grouse. WHEN TO GO: Alpine hunting for bighorn sheep is best in late summer or early fall.

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Magic, Strength & Beauty Best known for his black-and-white landscapes of California, Ansel Adams photographed the Four Corners area for decades, inspired by the small towns of New Mexico, the mountains and valleys of Colorado, and the natural wonders of Arizona and Utah: “Wherever one goes in the Southwest, one encounters magic, strength and beauty.” Discover Adams’ special connection to the region in this rare pictorial.

Self Portrait, Monument Valley, Utah, 1958.

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Silverton, Colorado, 1951.

“ When words become unclear, I shall focus with photographs. When images become inadequate, I shall be content with silence.”

White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona, circa 1942. J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 • D O R A D O

Santuario de Chimayó, New Mexico, circa 1950.

“The whole world is, to me, very much alive — all the little growing things, even the rocks.”

Base of West Arch, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Utah, 1942.

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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y F AW N D E V I N E Y

Free Spırıts

ST Y LING BY DI ANE A IELLO

Escape to Arizona’s Verde Valley, where the romance of the Old West has modern appeal

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THIS PAGE

On her: Silk shell and sweater with gold wrap necklace by Brunello Cucinelli; pants by Michael Kors; all available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix. Crocodile cuff by Kulu, and hat available at Pinto Ranch Fine Western Wear, Houston.

PREVIOUS SPREAD

On her: Dress by Natalie Martin; available at Barneys NY, Scottsdale Fashion Square. On him: Knit pullover and slim pants by John Varvatos; both available at Barneys NY, Scottsdale Fashion Square.

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On her: Tank with knit pullover by Brunello Cucinelli; earrings by Alexis Bittar; both available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix. On him: Cashmere sweater by Barneys; available at Barneys NY, Scottsdale Fashion Square.

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On her: Sweater by Isabel Marant; silk shorts by Natalie Martin; earrings by Alexis Bittar; all available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix. Shoes by Peter Nappi.

OPPOSITE

On him: Shirt by Saks Fifth Avenue; jacket by Madison Supply; both available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix.

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On him: Shirt by Robert Graham; available at Pinto Ranch Fine Western Wear, Houston. Pants by Theory; available at Barneys NY, Scottsdale Fashion Square. Boots by Peter Nappi.

OPPOSITE

On her: Dress by ATM; available at Barneys NY, Scottsdale Fashion Square. Belt by Streets Ahead; available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park, Phoenix. Hair and makeup: Diane Aiello. Production coordinator: Erik Shearer/ Get It Productions. Models: Sam and Radu/ The Agency Arizona. Shot on location at M Diamond Ranch near Sedona, Arizona.

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WO O DS

photography by Chris Corrie

photography by Wendy McEahern

DE SIGN | BU I L DER S

Consistently the best Designing and building the ﬁnest homes in Santa Fe for over thirty-eight years. Woods Builders D O R ADesign D O • J U LY / A U G U S T•2302 0 1 5 Catron Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 • 505.988.2413 • woodsbuilders.com 72

DESTINATION T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S B E S T S M A L L T O W N S & G E TA W AY S

Santa Fe

DOUGLAS MERRIAM

GET THE PICTURE

Art collectors from around the world flock to Santa Fe’s galleries, such as Chiaroscuro Contemporary Art.

This high-desert town is the very embodiment of the Southwest — rugged, beautiful, timeless. Sam Moulton retraces his journey

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ART APPRECIATION

“Just hope you don’t get a corner,”

designated section, and the whole thing would repeat. If the majordomo happened Whitney said as we sped east of town in his rickety Volvo to assign you a corner, or any kind of bend station wagon, the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo blurring the in the acequia, where silt and debris were windshield. It was early April, in the early aughts, and we were more likely to build up, Whitney explained, you were going to get a little dirtier. heading to Ribera, New Mexico, a small community of artists, More than a decade later, my most vivid memory is of endless shoveling and insaranchers and farmers southeast of Santa Fe, to help our friend tiable thirst. And fine New Mexican dirt Eric clean the acequia he uses to irrigate his small farm. everywhere — under my nails, in my trail running shoes, caked to the insides of my ears. It took me a few days to scrub it all away, but in many As with the hundreds of other acequias in northern ways, it’s been a part of me of ever since. Mexico, Ribera’s community-operated watercourse was Although Santa Fe is one of the oldest cities in America, originally dug in the 1700s when the Spanish first started first occupied around the end of the 10th century, a lot of farming in the area. Once a year, the 30 or so families who us have washed up here more recently. We usually blow in share the acequia, which diverts water from the nearby from the East, and often a passing glimpse is all it takes — Pecos River, get together to give it a spring-cleaning. The a long weekend visiting an old friend, an impromptu more friends every member of the acequia persuaded to stopover during a road trip. A knot comes loose, a subtle pitch in and help purge the previous season’s detritus, the but noticeable shift deep in the psyche. “Touch the country,” less they’d have to pay in water taxes that year. D.H. Lawrence once wrote of New Mexico, “and you will The process is pretty simple: The acequia is several never be the same again.” Later, on a whim, or the whisper feet wide, and about 4 serpentine miles long, and we’d of a job offer, we’ll move to town. After a year or two we’ll tackle it one 10-or-so-foot-long stick section at a time. The get pulled away by other opportunities, but always seem to majordomo, or ditch boss, walks the acequia with his stick, find ourselves magnetically drawn back. counting off segments. Everyone would clean his and her

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JEN JUDGE; GABRIELL A MARKS; ROBERT GODWIN FOR THE SANTA FE OPER A . OPPOSITE: MICHAEL CL ARK.

Clockwise from left: The Railyard Arts District is home to galleries, markets and more than a few colorful characters; a sunny day at Nedra Matteucci Galleries; sunset at the open-air Santa Fe Opera House.

D EST I N AT I ON My own Santa Fe story follows a similar narrative arc. My freshman-year roommate in college, Devin, was from Santa Fe. I had traveled to the Southwest before, but the place he described — where all the food is slathered in red or green chile, all the buildings are brown and flat-roofed and all the kids are afraid of La Llorona, the ghostly woman who haunts the arroyos that interlace the town — had a hint of magical realism that my Wisconsin-raised, Puritan brain had a hard time comprehending. I decided I had to see it for myself, and moved to town for the summer following our sophomore year. Like a lot of people, I instantly swooned over the obvious Santa Fe. The historic churches, the galleries along Canyon Road, the rich history down every narrow, maze-like street. The postcard-perfect plaza at the heart of downtown where everyone from local hippies to art connoisseurs congregates and, at night, the cholos do hot laps in their lowriders, peacocking slowly around the square in their custom creations with colorful paint jobs, spoke rims and hydraulic systems. But what really hooked me that summer — and to this day — was more rooted in the landscape. The way the dirt roads take their time winding through the high desert. The way you can only really smell the junipers and piñon trees after a good hard rain. The way the sun hits the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that gently loom above town, bathing the foothills in the slanty and cinematic light that artists and photographers crave. I didn’t get my fill that summer. Not long after college, Santa Fe beckoned me back. Over the next few years, I learned to mountain bike in the foothills, rock climb at the cliffs that overlook the Rio Grande and telemark at the ski resort just above town. My vocabulary expanded to include Frito pies and faux-dobe. I traveled north to the tiny town of Chimayo, where a fabled adobe church has a seemingly endless supply of “holy dirt” that reportedly possesses a special curative power. I’m skeptical by nature, but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t moved by all the eye patches, crutches and other physical evidence of healing left behind in the inner holy shrine. I also finally understood the deep and enduring affection for the town’s main ingredient: the green chile. For the few first few years, I’d just nod my head as my friends discussed the nuanced difference in flavor profiles between green chiles grown in the town of Socorro

versus those from Hatch, which bills itself as the Chile Capital of the World. (Short version: Socorros are generally bigger, meatier and milder.) And I think I still have PTSD from my first trip to Horseman’s Haven, a no-frills local joint attached to a Giant gas station on the outskirts of town that serves up some of the hottest chile around. The special sauce comes in two different spice levels, and just one spoonful of the level two caused me to break out in a full-body sweat and induced a case of interminable hiccups. Santa Fe has evolved a lot since I first fell in love with it. There aren’t nearly as many lowriders cruising around town, and Horseman’s Haven Cafe is now in a (slightly) fancier new location. It’s still on the fringes of town, but is now

HAPPY TRAILS

Mountain bikers and hikers escape to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, located just southeast of the city.

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ADOBE DREAMLAND

It’s hard not to be enchanted by Canyon Road, a half-mile promenade through the city’s historic district.

sandwiched in between that Giant station and a furniture store. And, ever since food critic Anthony Bourdain visited the place a few years ago, it’s become a bit more popular. The city has grown considerably in the past decade, and while some locals might gripe about the increased traffic,

but, for the most part, I think we can all agree that the town continues to get better with age. Most of the trails I first fell in love with are now marked. The La Tierra network, which used to be a locals-only spot where you parked behind the church and had to know where you were going, now has official trailheads and maps at every junction. Even better, while the trails have become faster and more fun, and more people now enjoy them, I can still go out early on a Sunday morning and have the place to myself. The food and art scene has absolutely exploded. The green chile chicken enchiladas and margarita combo may still reign supreme, but that’s just the start. At Tune-Up, owners Jesus and Charlotte Rivera serve up traditional New Mexican fare with an El Salvadoran twist. Over at Eloisa, Santa Fe native John Rivera Sedlar, who has been lauded as the founder of modern Southwestern cooking, adds a bit of Latin American and Asian influence to the cooking techniques he first learned from his grandmother, Eloisa. Even the common green chile cheeseburger has been elevated to a delicacy by Brian Knox, who, after several decades cooking and helming some of the finest restaurants in town, decided to open up the Shake Foundation, an old-school burger-and-shake joint. Same thing goes for the arts. While the open-air Santa Fe Opera, emerging from the desert like a surreal white ship,

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DOUGL AS MERRIAM

D EST I N AT I ON

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DEST I N AT I ON remains the biggest star in the town’s creative constellation, the galaxy continues to diversify. Many galleries along Canyon Road, like Manitou Galleries, whose owner, Bob Nelson, also curates and manages the Nelson Museum of the West in Cheyenne, Wyoming, still specialize in traditional and contemporary Southwestern art. Others, like the world-renowned Nedra Matteucci Galleries, have a more cosmopolitan flair, and showcase everything from masters of American impressionism and Modernism to Russian realist paintings and Native American jewelry. But perhaps the coolest development is how the arts scene is no longer confined to the downtown and Canyon Road. The newish Railyard Arts District is home to a group of contemporary art galleries as well as SITE Santa Fe, an internationally known art The one thing that space. Groups like Meow Wolf, hasn’t changed? an arts production collaborative The rhythm of that produces immersive, multithe place. The town media art experiences, is in the still goes to bed midst of renovating an old bowling alley on the more industrial early and gets up west side of town. late. And it remains The one thing that hasn’t as unharried as ever changed? The rhythm of the by the on-demand place. The air still smells like pace of modern life. roasted chiles every fall, when farmers from down south roast their wares in parking lots across town. The town still goes to bed early and gets up late (forget about getting something good to eat after 9 p.m.). And it remains as unharried as ever by the on-demand pace of modern life. The other constant is the people. Thanks in part to the citywide living wage ordinance, which allows artists to earn a living while doing their craft on the side, and the nearby Los Alamos National Lab, which literally employs thousands of Ph.D.s, we have more than our fair share of jewelers, filmmakers and nuclear physicists. But it’s not just the artists, scientists and craftsmen that lend Santa Fe its distinctive texture; it’s everybody who’s chosen to carve out his or her own unique niche here in town. A few years ago, I remember reading that longtime resident Cormac McCarthy once remarked that “there’s good craic” here. Craic? I had to look it up (it’s Gaelic for lively chat or conversation), but he’s totally right. McCarthy was specifically referring to the Nobel laureates, MacArthur geniuses and other faculty members of the Santa Fe Institute, the think tank where he hangs out and writes, but I like to think he’d have said the same exact thing about the rest of us.

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The 300-plus days of sunshine, cool nights and warm days in the summer produce high-quality peaches and wine grapes. I have sent peaches to friends who are longtime fruit growers in California, and they say the Colorado peaches are the best they’ve ever tasted. J O H N M O O R E , H O R T I C U LT U R E S U P E RV I S O R AT TA L B O T T FA R M S , A F O U R T H - G E N E R AT I O N FA M I LY FA R M G R O W I N G P E A C H E S A N D W I N E G R A P E S

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Find it. Feel it. Live it. Photographer: Patrick Kerwick

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