Frequent Traveller

April | May 2009

FREQUENT

Complete resource for the corporate Traveller

April | May 2009 MICA(P) 014/04/2009 KDN NO. PP(S) 1221/10/2009(028088)

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Chengdu v France v Sonoma v South Africa v Thailand

Getaways Luxe Vacations With A Twist

Panda Watching Beyond Paris Having Tea With A Rhino Shopping Meccas Special Feature

BUSINESS HOTELS

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When The Going Gets Tough...

KDN NO. PP(S) 1221/10/2009(028088) MICA(P) 014/04/2009

Ways To Survive The Downturn www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

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Travel To Chengdu v France v Sonoma v South Africa v Thailand

52 | Frequent traveller

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contents GUIDELINES

April | May 2009

6 Loft-y Ideas

Two new hotel properties in Beijing are pushing the hospitality envelope with loftstyle rooms, ingenious design touches—and a smattering of service idiosyncracies

By Susan Leong and Terrie V. Gutierrez

10 Surviving the Downturn

Industry players suggest a simple way to weather the crisis

By Susan Leong

14 When the Going Gets Tough, the Tough Get Creative

Laguna Bintan’s Andrew Langston on how serving the Queen of England was a good basis for life as a hotelier

Key airline industry player Robert Bailey of Abacus International on how to effectively maximise your business travel budget this year

Forward-thinking and progressive, Malaysia’s capital is counting on domestic tourism and a vibrant city life to fuel its economy this year

By Sharmila Rajah

23 South Korea’s World Domination Strategy

Look around. Everywhere, Korean businesses and tourism are fuelling a lot of economies.

Here’s what’s keeping that mighty engine going

By Terrie V. Gutierrez

DESTINATIONS

FEATUREs

32 Tea Time in Chengdu

26 MIND YOUR BUSINESS

By Renée Stahlmann

By Susan Leong

20 Kuala Lumpur is Ready for its Close Up

By Susan Leong

17 Should I Stay or Should I Go?

13 The Royal Treatment

How? Surprisingly, by more investments in enhancing, upgrading, and generally beefing up their IT capabilities, according to Amadeus Asia Pacific

CORP HUB

With a can-do attitude and some creative ways of beefing up market share, business hotels in the region are weathering the storm in style

Graceful teahouses, delicious spicy food, and yes, giant pandas are just some of the major attractions of Sichuan’s capital

By Mike Smith

36 African Dreams

By Jamie Shum and Terrie V. Gutierrez

When was the last time you had dinner al fresco with a rhinoceros in your lawn? In Kwazulu-Natal, you can do that and more

By Amy Van

40 Le Peu de France

CLUB PREMIERE SUITE (LIVING ROOM)

Frequent Traveller is published eight times a year by Eastern Publishing Pte Ltd; Web: www.frequenttraveller.com.sg; To subscribe, see page 65

The title means “Little France” because we take you to the little-

On the cover The yellow walls of Adrère Amellal in Egypt

FREQUENT

www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

06

known places in the French countryside, where the wine, food, and the scenery are magical

The stylish Village Cafe at The Opposite Hotel is a design marvel

By Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam

44 Down in the Valley

In California’s Napa Valley, wine and wine-making makes for a carefree lifestyle

By Ming E. Wong

SOJOURN

40

48 Pai in the Sky

Journey to the north of Thailand to this little known backpacker’s paradise for some elephantriding, river-rafting or just plain singing under the stars accompanied by a battered guitar. The simple life never sounded so great

For some serious retail therapy—whether buying highend at posh boutiques or lowend at street bazaars—nothing beats the shopping meccas of the Asia Pacific—Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore

For those not affected by the recession or going away on a once-in-a lifetime vacation, here are some luxurious suggestions

By Terrie V. Gutierrez

59 Travel Talk: Are You Lonesome Tonight?

REGULARS

By Justine Moss

Extreme sportsman Bouwe Bekking takes a breather to talk to us about battling the elements and racing to the finish line

44

Fine wine, good food — what’s not to love about Napa Valley?

By Louay Habib

64 The Good Stuff 68 Perk Me Up 70 Gourmand’s Corner 72 Travel Deals

70

One On The Bund gets an upgrade

76 New Rooms

A male traveller reflects on the perils of exploring on your own

By Lin Weiwen

Model/presenter Denise Keller goes all out exploring Malaysia in her new TV series

62 Life in the Extreme

56 Luxe with a Conscience

60 Backpacker in Heels

By Ruth Tan

LIFESTYLE

Kuala Lumpur is counting on tourism to fill its coffers

By Desiree Foo

52 The Queens of Retail

20

Avignon, France is a theatre haven

77 Bulletins 78 Flight Plans

04 Our Say 79 Diary of Events 80 New Sight & Experience

FREQUENT

oursay

Managing Director (Operations) Kenneth Tan Assistant Editor Terrie Gutierrez terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg Senior Editorial Assistant Sharina Shariff Editorial Assistant Amy Ho amyho@epl.com.sg

Brave, Borderless, Kaleidoscope World This issue reminds us of a remark by a friend, also an editor. She said, “Our correspondent in Paris does interviews in French, writes in Arabic, and sends the copy to Dubai for translation into English. Then the translator sends the transliterated English version to me for editing. You can imagine the revisions I have to make. Crazy (but fun)!”

Though this magazine doesn’t quite go through that “global” a process, we do have an army of contributors of different nationalities, writing about places all over the world about things that we all care about. These days, it pays to have a global perspective. The little story above illustrates how expanded our lives have become. Seismic shifts in technology, ways of thinking and methods of communicating have created a world where it’s normal to do business, and chat with people, have a relationship even, half a world away. When we think that 20 years ago this wasn’t possible, it can really boggle the mind.

Such permeability also makes us vulnerable in a sense, because we’re no longer protected by our borders. What happens halfway across the world has a profound effect on our everyday lives—as the ongoing economic crisis has shown us. These days, it’s increasingly hard to talk to anyone without the dreaded “C” word cropping up. Everybody’s worried and so they should be. But still, people are resilient and resourceful. As one industry player said, “Listen, we can all start running scared, or we can all start doing something about it.” Truer words, and all that.

We here at Frequent Traveller are optimists. While we acknowledge that hard times are ahead, we’re doing our bit to present solutions, with our stories on how travel and hospitality industry players are coping with the crisis (starting on p10). Our main feature is all about business hotels and their innovations (p26) in these trying times. And hard times or not, we believe that travelling—whether for business or for pleasure, whether in business class or economy—is still preferable than sitting at home. Our travel stories take you to Chengdu (p32), all the way to South Africa (p36), and the French countryside (p40), with a stopover for some wine in California (p44), before a sidetrip to Thailand (p48).

Have fun exploring, meeting the world, and yes, finding solutions to make the world better.

Senior Art Director/Studio Manager Lawrence Lee Graphic Designers Zarina Johari Tristan De Los Trinos Contributing Graphic Designers Ahmad Halik, Allan Sison, Jeff Pimentel Katherine Ching, Libby Goh, Winnie Lee, Zhan Tao Photographer Eric Chun Managing Director (Sales) Dan Tan Senior Regional Sales Director Connie Tung connietung@epl.com.sg Regional Manager Josephine Teo josephineteo@epl.com.sg Circulation Manager Foo Boon How Circulation Executives Emily Wang May Tan Contributors Desiree Foo, Susan Leong, Weiwen Lin, Justine Moss, Sharmilah Rajah, Prime Sarmiento, Jaime Shum, Mike Smith, Renee Stahlmann, Ruth Tan, Amy Van, Ming E. Wong, Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam Published By EASTERN PUBLISHING PTE LTD (Co. Reg. No.: 200413351W) A fully-owned subsidiary of Eastern Holdings Ltd

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Special Advertising Section

PLAYWhileYou WORK

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guidelinesboutiquehotels

by Susan Leong and Terrie V. Gutierrez | Photos by Starwoord Asia Pacific Hotels & Resorts, Susan Leong, and The Opposite House

LOFT-Y

IDEAS

Two new hotels in Beijing—one part of a chain, another a boutique-type operation—catch our attention with lush innovations that push the design envelope just a little farther the edge

Small on non-essential features, big on character and attitude—that’s aloft Beijing Haidian, Starwood’s modern, fresh and fun destination for travellers who embrace different possibilities. Opened November 2008, the 186-room hotel sits in the major IT hub of Haidian district. The hotel is pwart of a mixed-use complex with offices and sister hotel Four Points by Sheraton Beijing, Haidian, and a mere five-minute walk to Golden Resources Shopping Mall, Asia Pacific’s largest mall.

Things are quite different at this hotel. For example, don’t expect the usual hushed polite greeting when you step in.

Instead, a cheery “Aloha!” greets you because apparently, research shows that the word conjures the most positive experiences in guests’ minds—of laidback ambience, total relaxation, and happy, stress-free times.

Of course for an ideal holiday, whatever you need should be within arm’s reach or a phone call away, and ser vice and facilities should be entertaining and engaging; aloft Beijing delivers on all counts, at valuefor-money efficiency.

On-the-go luxe Ready to go to your loft-inspired room? Please bring your bags with you. If you require help, there are supermarket-type trolleys to assist you. Need bedroom slippers?

Pick them up from the basket beside the elevator, courtesy of neighbouring Four Points, as aloft believes in trimming back the unnecessary. Clearly, aloft embraces the modern lifestyle, which is why it is both kid-friendly and pet-friendly.

The aloft DNA was conceptualised with the renowned David Rockwell and the Rockwell Group to offer a new twist in travel—by delivering a bold, new lodging alternative to the culture-conscious traveller

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who’s tired of the cookie-cutterone-size-fits-all experience.

Common areas like the lobby, for example, are abuzz with energy; food is not always brought to you by service staff, and nothing is boring—or ordinary.

While most hotel lobbies are functional spaces for check-in/ checkout and waiting around, aloft Beijing (like other aloft properties) offers a creative and active space that encourages social interplay. Aptly named re:mix, guests can have a drink, read the paper, surf the Internet at the computer stations or their laptops, print a boarding pass, play a game of pool, or pop into re:fuel by aloft, a 24-hour food concept underlined by grab-and-go efficiency.

The food counter is selfservice so guests can linger as long as they wish. And as a welcome change to the often-unhealthy fare offered on the road, re:fuel offers a choice of healthy gourmet fare, salads, sandwiches, croissants, and bagels. All-day

café Nook offers the same efficiency with its tray-in, tray-out self-service. Menu items include a range of local specialities and regional fare, with emphasis on great quality.

There is a certain fluidity in aloft Beijing, like the way re:mix takes on a different character with the day-to-dusk lighting, and how the music’s tempo changes to match the evening glow. As guests slide from re:mix to wxyz bar to meet and mingle, the bartender signals the opening of the bar by flipping over the stylish backlit wall panels to reveal row upon row of neatly arranged bottles. Let the party begin!

Rooms and amenities Guest loft rooms with their carefree and bold interiors are created to appeal to on-the-go and in-the-know travellers. Chic and compact at 33 square metres (sq m), each loft’s open design is enhanced by the nine-foot high ceiling and oversized windows.

Each ultra-comfortable, signature bed faces the window, never the

The new aloft Beijing Haidian suits the informal traveler who likes to mingle.

(Clockwise from left) Spaces such as re:mix, wxyz, and the pool all invite guests to form connections

wall, so a guest will always “rise and shine,” literally.

Every loft is decked out with a high-tech office and entertainment centre with wireless Internet access, and plugand-play, one-stop connectivity for multiple gadgets such as cell phones, PDAs, mp3 players, and laptops. Even better, they are linked to a large plasma HDTVready television for optimal sound and viewing.

Guests can work up a sweat at re:charge, the 24/7 fitness centre or they can choose to dive into splash to swim laps, lounge in style around the pool, or curl up on the huge swing.

There are six meeting rooms, which offer a total of 3,656 sq m

of flexible space. Each room is equipped with the latest stateof-the-art AV technology, plasma TV, and Wi-Fi. The backyard can also be used for intimate outdoor events, tea breaks, or as breakout areas. aloft Beijing is the brand’s debutante outside the US, and the first of nine aloft hotels to open in Asia Pacific between now and January 2011. Located near Fourth Ring Road, it offers easy access to the historic Summer Palace, the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic Stadium and “Water Cube” Aquatic Centre. aloft Beijing, Haidian Tower 2, No. 25 Yuanda Road, Haidian District, Beijing, China 100097; alofthotels.com/haidian

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| 07

Opposite attraction Everything about The Opposite House screams conceptual luxury—quite a contradiction in terms, if one thinks about it.

Seen from outside, its emerald green glass façade is enough of a design wonder to draw the curious in. Designed by the renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, whose recent projects include the Suntory office building in Tokyo as well as the ultra-luxe Dellis Key resort in Turks and Caicos, the 99-room luxury boutique hotel is situated at the heart of The Village at Sanlitun, Beijing’s first open-plan shopping and leisure complex. Both the hotel and the complex are projects of Swire Properties.

Historically, Sanlitun has always been cosmopolitan and vibrant, being the heart of Beijing’s diplomatic community since the 1950s. Now, the area is transformed into The Village of Sanlitun, a mixed-use development whose design is based on traditional hutongs and courtyards. Swire Properties aims to make this area into a dynamic centre where dining, art, entertainment, and fashion options come together and where locals and visitors can live, eat, and play.

Opened mid-2008, The Opposite House takes its name from the traditional Chinese guest house, which sits opposite

From Top: The hotel lobby, Bei restaurant, and the penthouse terrace of The Opposite House are design marvels

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the main house in an old-style courtyard. The name also suggests contrast—because The Opposite House blends old and new, the traditional and modern.

The stunning latticelike effect of the façade is inspired by traditional Chinese latticework and is designed to reflect the hotel’s surroundings.

Once inside, the glass façade surprisingly forms a screen to provide guests with privacy and comfort.

Inside, The Opposite House is all about space—at the heart of the lobby is a large central atrium where the conventional boundaries of hotel activities are subtly blurred. In keeping with its design roots, The Opposite House also serves as a showcase for young Chinese contemporary artists. Its ground floor functions as a contemporary art gallery, with works on display by 10 of the best Chinese artists of the moment—from Beijing, Hong Kong, Australia, and London.

This hotel doesn’t do anything conventional, it seems: Unlike most hotels, there are no fixed check-in and checkout times, checking in is paperless and you don’t have to do it in the lobby. You can go to your room or wait anywhere within the hotel and the staff will come to you to check you in. Need a car to take you around? The hotel can provide you with a driver and a choice of cars—a Maserati Quattroporte or an Audi Q7. Just so guests can experience Beijing, every Saturday, the hotel has complimentary walking tours.

Choose from three options: a tour of the contemporary art 798 district, the imperial palaces of the Forbidden City, or a tour of Beijing’s hutongs. The hotel can also create personalized tours for guests.

Studio95, Studio115. Standard in all rooms are free wireless Internet, a complimentar y m i n i b a r, a n d a d i g i t a l entertainment system.

The hotel takes loft-living to the next level. Striking open designs, high ceilings, floor-toceiling windows and natural light all evoke space. The choice of wood throughout and an underfloor heating system ensures warmth and natural comfort. All studios feature spa-inspired bathrooms, deep luxurious oak tubs, and rain showers. The Penthouse spreads out over 200sq m, on two floors with a large roof terrace and has its own kitchen facilities for those who would like to practice their culinary skills.

Details are ever ything in this hotel: Luxury down bedding is by Ploh, and you’ll be snug in 400 threadcount Egyptian cotton sheets; and oak in your tub with BaYanKaLa toiletries, while watching TV with your Denon entertainment system.

Amenities Another unusual design feature is the 22m pool—which is made of stainless steel and has dramatic lighting to add to your sensory experience.

To cap it off, The Opposite House has different dining and entertainment options to choose from: Sureño serves Mediterranean cuisine; Bei ser ves North Asian (Japan, Northern China, and Korea), while the Village Café is casual dining. You can also opt to have a private dinner—complete with servers, menu tailored from the hotel restaurants and music piped in from Mesh, the chillout lounge bar or Punk, with its DJs and late-night club music.

Lofts in space The Opposite House has 98 studios—all named for how big they are: Studio45, Studio70,

The Opposite House, The Village, Building 1, No. 11, Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China 100027. www.oppositehouse.com

guidelines travelindustryreport

by Susan Leong

Figures from the World Tourism Organisation (WTO) show that international tourist arrivals topped 924 million in 2008, up 16 million or 2% from 2007. The first six months of 2008 had started off on a promising note, registering a gain of 5% tourist arrivals worldwide. However, growth plunged to–1% in the second half of the year due to an extremely volatile world economy (financial crisis, commodity and oil price hikes, sharp exchange rate fluctuations) that undermined both consumer and business confidence, and resulted in the current global economic recession. This year, international

tourism is expected to decline by 2%, says the WTO. Asia has been especially hard hit by the tourism trend, reporting a –3% growth between July and December 2008, compared to a +6% in the first half of the same year, and double-digit growth in 2007.

While hospitality industr y players caught unprepared are now struggling to make ends meet, companies that have started preparing for the proverbial rainy day are reaping the fruits of their early labour.

For management teams, it’s been a combination of rethink, reskill and redeploy to reduce costs and maintain a viable bottomline.

Workable strategies “We started rethinking and adjusting our strategies in mid2008,” says Andrew Langston, Area General Manager–Laguna Bintan, which includes Banyan Tree Bintan, Angsana Resort Bintan and Laguna Bintan Golf Club. “Instead of our previous focus on the wholesale segments from Europe, the UK, Australia, Korea and Japan, we’ve shifted our strategy to MICE and corporate groups from Singapore. We’ve had tremendous success with this—our MICE bookings almost doubled between August 2008 and March 2009, and we expect this positive trend

Surviving the

Downturn The current economic crunch has caught a lot of businesses unprepared. The only way to escape unscathed is to follow a simple rule: Rethink, reskill, redeploy

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to continue,” he says, sharing the forward figures during the early-January interview. “We’re also targeting the short-haul business and leisure markets from Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, and Hong Kong with special packages.”

Like Banyan Tree, Frasers Hospitality has responded quickly to the deteriorating economic conditions. “Opportunities arise in a downturn, where companies may move from fixed long-term rentals to flexible serviced apartments leases,” says Choe Peng Sum, CEO. He cites the example of project teams that need to stay overseas for several months at

a time. As serviced apartments come with their own bedrooms, separate living areas and kitchens, as well as the full range of hotel services, they provide “viable alternatives to long-term rental apartments.”

“Occupancy is still stable as we are in the long-term market. We are moving ahead with planned openings of 10 properties this year, expanding our global presence from Asia Pacific and Europe to India and the Middle East,” adds Choe.

“However, we are more cautious in forming the right relationships and exercising due diligence such that when the economy recovers, we will be well positioned to move forward.”

Serviced apartments are viable alternatives that customers are looking into.

Clockwise from top: EAC Complex, Citadines, Ascott Singapore

People optimisation People are the greatest asset in the hospitality business. For Banyan Tree, this is the time “to regenerate—to challenge the status quo in development plans,” says Langston. “We are fast-tracking our talent development programme by reskilling our staff. For example, if our housekeeping guys want to try out F&B, we’ll provide the training so that they can experience a different role and function. Several caddies have successfully made the transition to banquet, and our sports guys have moved to engineering. Multiskilling is a good way to optimise efficiency and costs, especially during these tough times.”

Frasers Hospitality is looking to “the Fraser ‘familial’ culture to help the company tide over this period better. We are eleven years old, and even now, I am surrounded by colleagues who have built this brand with me from day one,” says Choe. “It heartens me to stroll along the two flagship properties in Singapore and still see familiar

“MICE bookings doubled between August 2008 and March 2009,” says Langston.

Top to Bottom: Banyan Tree Spa, Banyan Tree room

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faces. Our people are our most prized assets, and we want to keep our family close in this economic downturn. There are those who are happy to continue to do what they have done well; for others who want to try something else within the group, there are still opportunities and training to get them on that track. There is more to do as we go back to basics, retrain and remind ourselves why we are in this industry.” He emphasises the importance of keeping “all lines of communication open so that shared vision and plans can cascade downwards quickly.”

Belt-tightening measures Having chalked up 30 years in the hospitality industr y, including experiencing the Asian financial crisis in 1997, regional economic downturn and SARS, Langston advises companies to “limit the vulnerabilities of your fixed costs during this period. Renegotiate contracts—remember that for every contract you have, there’re going to be three or four companies waiting to give you a better deal. Outsource if you can. For example, there’s no need to hire a team of drivers or own your own fleet of vessels; you can get an external party to provide such transport services.”

“Liquidity is important, so adjust costs to variables. Aside from outsourcing, you can relook your staff employment terms. When someone leaves, think about tur ning that position into a contract position, or outsource that role if you can. This way, you’ll have more flexibility to terminate the service if it becomes redundant; you’ll also have more flexibility in liquidity control,” adds the hospitality veteran.

guidelines hospitality Text by Susan Leong • Photos by Andrew Langston, Banyan Tree Hotels and Resorts

The Royal Treatment

Laguna Bintan’s Andrew Langston on why serving the Queen of England is good training for the hospitality business It’s in the details

Andrew Langston, the 47year old area general manager of Laguna Bintan, which includes Banyan Tree Bintan, Angsana Resort Bintan, and Laguna Bintan Golf Club, boasts a colourful career that involved serving Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth and her family for almost three years; riding on the Royal Yacht Britannica, and Royal Flight aircraft; encounters with foreign dignitaries such as the late Pope John Paul II, country presidents, prime ministers and members of royal families from around the globe, as well as a knighthood from King Hussein of Jordan.

As a footman in the royal household, he attended to the meticulous day-to-day requirements of Britain’s royal family.

“We’re talking about VIP visits to normal things to the incredibly minute details. For example, if a foreign dignitary were on a state visit, we must be aware of a range of issues from his or her cultural background to the required protocol, diet, and personalised service, and also information about his or her entourage,” says Langston.

He then whips out a palm-sized, hardcover booklet that lists in detail the itinerary of a VIP guest. The 60-pager even has such information as ‘Car 2, back passenger seat, right’ so that on arrival at the palace, the butler can open the car door and greet the guest by the correct name.

Personal encounters He recalls those days with fondness. “Once, when I was out horse riding, Princess Diana passed by in her car.

I had to remove my hat and place it against my chest in a salute, but somehow, the reins

got entangled in the chin strap of my hat, and I couldn’t quite manage the salute—it was such an embarrassing experience for me, especially as she doubled over in a belly laugh.” When he apologised to her the next day and explained that he was a bad rider, she replied with a twinkle, “I wouldn’t have guessed.”

What’s the queen really like?

“She’s cool, and really smart—she corrects the speeches that are drafted for her, and speaks fluent French. She knows everything that’s going on, and is a very ‘switched-on’ person. She’s also very poised and unflappable.”

For example, in July 1982, she woke up in the morning to find a strange man dressed in jeans and a dirty T-shirt sitting at the foot of her bed and bleeding from a cut on the hand. She remained calm and engaged him in conversation until help came, more than 10 minutes later.

“She even offered him tea, and persuaded the guy to go with the palace guard for that,” relates the former footman.

Across the miles His stint at Buckingham Palace led him to his calling in the

service and hospitality industry.

He followed his passion to Australia, before moving on to other destinations including Papua New Guinea, Singapore, Thailand, Philippines, and now to Indonesia’s Bintan island, where he has been since May 2008.

For the hospitality business in the region, “English is a goldmine,” he says, which is why Laguna Bintan conducts three English classes catering to different language abilities ever y week. “With a good command of the language, our associates are more confident when they interact with guests,” he explains.

Drawing on his years in the hotel industry, he shares with staff the characteristics of different nationalities, such as the more laidback, friendly nature of the Australians, and the slightly more formal behaviour of the British. The knowledge helps staff provide a better hotel experience for guests. “Some associates are intuitively better at service, especially the Thais and Filipinos, as they tend to come from big families; the Japanese on the other hand, tend to be more reserved.”

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guidelines travelindustryreport

Text by Susan Leong | Photography by Amadeus Asia Pacific

Damian Hickey III

David Barrett

WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH,

tHE TOUGH GET CREATIVE The bad news: The travel industry is buckling up for tough times ahead.

The good news: Its coping mechanisms are top-notch. Some success stories

It’s going to be a tough year for the airline industry.

According to the International Air Transport Association (IATA), which represents some 230 airlines comprising 93% of scheduled international air traffic, it’s time to tighten the seat belts and prepare the chutes as the industry may chalk up potential losses of US$2.5 billion (B), the worst revenue environment in half a century. Industry revenues are also expected to decline from the US$536B forecasted for 2008. Yields will go down by an estimated 3.0% (5.3%

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when adjusted for exchange rates and inflations). Passenger traffic will drop for the first time since 2001.

“The dramatic fluctuation of oil prices in the past year has clearly demonstrated how volatile airline fuel prices can be, and their subsequent impact on an airline’s business. This has highlighted the need for airlines to prepare themselves for the possibility that crude prices could escalate again,” says David Barrett, president of Amadeus Asia Pacific, a global leader in technology and distribution solutions for

the travel and tourism industry.

In 2008, crude prices hovered at an unprecedented US$150 per barrel.

For his part, Damien Hickey, Amadeus’ VP-Airline Business Group says that, “The airline industry is notoriously cyclical, and it’s not going to be the usual six-month cycle this time; it’s going to be a multiyear rebound.”

Tough times call for creativity and the industry’s response to the problem has been unusual.

“Interestingly, we were getting calls from airline CEOs and CIOs who wanted to

talk about technology. Instead of belt tightening, they’ve taken another strategy—they want to accelerate investment by leveraging technology,” says Hickey.

It’s a good call. Technology can help airlines improve efficiency without necessarily having to invest in new infrastructure, a move that can be costly. “There’s only so much you can squeeze out of the equation,” says Hickey, adding, “so instead of taxing the bottomline further, it makes better sense to bolster efficiency.”

IT in transit Many airlines today are still running on technology from the 1960s and 70s, which was designed to efficiently process high volumes, the principal need at that time.

With changing demands over the years, airlines have been installing technologies to cater to their specific requirements. Unfortunately, these systems do not always reside on the same platform, making cross-references tedious, even impossible.

In a revolutionary move that shifted focus to the consumer rather than the airline, Amadeus built a Customer Management System (CMS) system for British Airways (BA) and Qantas, “from the ground up,” reveals Hickey.

Balancing customer experience without compromising airline requirements, the system includes customer profiles such as frequent flyer recognition; personalised choices; preferences—even previous travel destinations; self-ser vice abilities from search to bookings; and

online check-in, all of which must also be facilitated on a coordinated platform. “Using open technology and today’s modern IT systems, the CMS functionalities are not limited by the traditional legacy system,” explains Hickey.

The benefits are immediately obvious. For the airline, it’s better ser vice, as seen in quicker time-to-market, seamless access of customer information across platforms such as those of participating airline alliances’, and ease of integration into the existing IT systems. For the customer, it means more convenience and hopefully, less hassle in booking flights, checking in, and even getting meal preferences and other inflight services.

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In October 2008, Qantas became the first airline worldwide to completely switch to Amadeus Altea CMS. The airline now uses the system to manage its entire sales, reservations, inventory,

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BUCKLE YOUR SEATBELTS, TURBULENCE AHEAD

It’s Going To Be A Tough Year, No Doubt. How Challenging?

Consider The Numbers

Industry revenues Expected to decline to US$501B, a fall of $35B from the $536B forecasted in 2008. This drop in revenues is the first since the two consecutive years of decline in 2001-02.

Yields Will go down by 3% (5.3% when adjusted for exchange rates and inflation).

Passenger traffic Expected to slow down by 3%, following a 2% growth in 2008.

This is the first decline in passenger traffic since the 2.7% drop in 2001.

Cargo traffic Projected to go down by 5%, following a dip of 1.5% in 2008. Before last year, the last time cargo traffic went down was in 2001, when a 6% drop was recorded.

Oil price Predicted to level off at an average of US$60 per barrel this year, for a total bill of US$142B, some US$32B cheaper than in 2008 when oil went for US$100/barrel.

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and departure control functions. The recent migration of the carrier to the new checkin and flight boarding system, Altéa Departure Control– Customer, is an unprecedented milestone in the industr y, and makes Qantas the first to become fully operational on the entire Altéa platform.

“Interestingly, we were getting calls from airline CEOs and CIOs who wanted to talk about technology. Instead of belt tightening, they’ve taken another strategy—they want to accelerate investment by leveraging technology,” “BA was our global launch partner for Altea when it was first introduced in the market, and is linked to Qantas via a code-share agreement enabled by Amadeus Codeshare solutions,” says Barrett. “Both airlines have also signed landmark 10-year partnership agreements with us (Qantas in September 2007, BA in June 2008), which will see Amadeus continuing to provide cutting-edge airline technology to the two airlines.

This includes the Altéa CMS technology platform and online solutions that power their websites, as well as paving the way for the introduction of more products and solutions in the coming years, till 2017,” he adds.

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DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOU’RE GOING TO?

A study on emerging travel trends for 2009 points to an optimistic-yet-cautious scenario What with the ongoing economic crisis, the last thing anybody should be thinking of doing is travelling, right? Wrong.

According to a recent study by Visa and the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA), trends are more optimistic than we hoped.

The survey, “Determining Travel Preferences in 2009 and Beyond,” says that a significant percentage of travellers were more likely to continue with their travel plans this year. Of the 5,554 people surveyed, 36% said they did not expect to change their travel plans. While the remaining percentage will be reviewing travel plans. However, 57% of those reviewing their plans said they would still travel but are opting for cheaper alternatives while 38% chose to travel within their country. More than half of frequent travellers—those who

travel more than three times a year—and highspend travellers (those who spend more than the average in the survey for their country or territory) say their plans won’t be affected by the slowdown.

“The survey shows that while the global economic situation does impact tourism, it also shows that travellers will be more creative in their choices of destinations,” says Meranda Chan, Visa country manager for Singapore and Brunei and PATA board director.

Based on nationalities, it is the Australians, British, Singaporeans, Indians, French, and Americans were less likely to let economic concerns keep them from travelling.

While those from Chinese Taipei, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, and China were more likely to change their plans.

Maybe because they have more disposable income,

older travellers (45 years old and above) were more likely to stick with their plans than younger respondents, while more males than females were more likely to hold off travel plans.

Change of plans What’s significant in the study though is that many are opting for either cheaper alternatives to their usual vacations abroad or are staying home to explore local travel options. Around 70%, most from Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, Chinese Taipei, and China said they will seek cheaper alternatives while domestic travel was an option considered by 38% of the respondents, most of whom were from Japan, India, Chinese Taipei, the United States and China.

“This is the perfect time for the regional tourism industry to drive domestic travel, spurring local economies,” says Chan.

Where are they off to?

The same survey also named Asia-Pacific as the number one region for those intending to trael overseas in the next two years. Top three placecontenders among those surveyed were Australia (43%), Japan (37%), and Hong Kong (35%).

The figures seem to bear this out. According to PATA, international arrivals to Asia-Pacific destinations grew by

Hong Kong is still a favourite travel destination

some 2.6% year-on-year in 2008, “Despite the economic slowdown which created a serious impact on inbound traffic in the second half of the last year,” says Chan.

This is the first time that Australia and New Zealand were included in this study. Of the 43% who wanted to go to Australia, Americans, British, and French lead the pack while in Asia, it is the Indians, Singaporeans, and Japanese who want to go walkabout.

Japan, the second most popular destination in the survey, was popular with those from Chinese Taipei, Hong Kong, Singapore, the US, and Korea. Some 52% of young travellers (18-24) were also most likely to choose this destination than older age groups. The country is also more popular with single respondents than marrieds.

Perennial favorite, Hong Kong rounds off the top three, with more than a third of respondents considering a trip there in the next two years. Those from mainland China consider Hong Kong in their travels but it’s really the Singaporeans and Indians who rated Hong Kong as their travel destination. For comparison, the top three leisure destinations travellers actually went to in the past three years were China (32%), Thailand (31%), and Hong Kong (32%).

guidelines businesstravel

Text by renée stahlmann | Photography by Abacus International

Shouldi

Stay OR Go?

We talk to a veteran in the travel industry to list down key points to maximise travelling in a lean season

Fact: The market’s down and most companies are taking time out to regroup and rethink strategies. One of the key questions that most companies are grappling with these days is whether to curtail or even cut their budget for business travel. Robert Bailey, CEO of Abacus International, the leading travel facilitator in Asia Pacific, says things are not as bad as they seem.

“Across the region, there are varying impacts. I would say that again according to data through Euro Monitor, most Asian

markets are actually showing continued growth. At this stage, we’re in a transition phase, so getting accurate data is very difficult, so I would not want to comment exactly on individual markets at this stage, because I think it’s too early. Having said that, there are statistics, that show some countries declined in business travel.”

If there’s anyone who can give an accurate reading of the situation, it is Robert Bailey. The 43-year old has only been based in Singapore since April 2008, but Abacus International liaises with

practically the whole travel and hospitality industries. Over 15,000 travel agencies, 450 airlines, 50 car rental companies, and around 18,000 hotels across the region use the Abacus system.

“I think what we’re seeing is obviously the economic uncertainty in the global market is having an impact in terms of business confidence to a degree,” continues Bailey. Having said that, however, Bailey raises a few key points that may help

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Face-to-face meetings here carry a lot of weight, so it’s really important to maintain that contact through periods of uncertainty because I think that sort of goes to the heart of doing business in Asia Robert Bailey

businessmen across the region maximise their travel expenses.

1. Plan ahead. “This is a basic first principle. I think planning ahead is going to be key—this may mean incorporating a number of stops in one go or clusters of business meetings. So think ahead, plan it and try to maximise the number of visits or impact of those visits for each trip.”

2. Is the trip necessary? “We’ve got to obviously look at that. I would say, though that in Asia, relationships are ver y important. Face-to-face meetings here carry a lot of weight, so it’s really important to maintain that contact through periods of uncertainty because I think that sort of goes to the heart of doing business here.”

3. L o o k f o r a lt e r n a t i v e solutions. “The alternative is not to travel.

There’s teleconference, videoconference and such. However, it’s actually not straightforward. While the technology is capable of operating, not everybody has it. And it’s a big investment to make. For instance, very few companies have good quality conference facilities. They typically

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have them between their head offices and key regional offices, but not customers.

Most customers would not have the level of sophistication to have videoconferencing to make it a complete substitute.

I see technology as complementing and supplementing face-to-face communication. We all said when video conferencing came out, it was going to kill business travel, and we’ve all been wrong. You also have to take into account building relationships — particularly when you have a region like Asia. It’s large, culturally very diverse and it’s quite difficult doing business remotely when you’ve all the subtle nuances of face-to-face relationships that you have to manage. If there’s a cultural aspect, a complexity-of-business aspect, these should be taken into account.”

4. Make an integrated travel policy and approach. “It comes down to the stage of the business cycle you’re in—whether you’re generating new business or whether you’re maintaining relationships—and then matching that to your business travel requirements. Early stages might need face-to-face and more frequent travel. With strong ongoing relationships, you can probably back off and

supplement with video or teleconference.

Also, how important is travel to your business—are you talking about big deals, are you talking about opportunities? For big projects, maybe you need to have more visits in the beginning and you can ease off. I think you have to adapt to where you are.”

5. The question of going downmarket. “You’ve got to look at the whole business agenda. If you’re looking at routine day-to-day contact, or routine intracompanytype travel, then I would be looking to maintain a lower cost on that. If it’s a simple point-to-point itinerary, then you can use low-cost airlines effectively and lower-cost hotel properties have a place. If you’re looking at more complex itineraries, where you’ve got more stops, or you’ve got longer periods, then I think it’s up to the company to look after their business travellers. I would say, you want them to be in top condition to do the negotiations to be able to represent the company. There’s a place for what I’d say routine day-to-day type things, or non-urgent, and there’s a place for higher value where you’ve got more complex itineraries, longer itineraries and maybe more senior management as well.”

6. M a x i m i s e t h e u s e o f a corporate travel agent or a travel management company (TMC). “They can get the most bang for the buck for the company—best corporate rates for hotels, airlines, car rentals, best use of executive’s time when they’re travelling abroad, best cost-price trade-off in terms of the quality of the hotel or airline.

The key word is management—they add strategy to travel planning.

They have management information systems and the data analysis tools that can read trends, they can keep an eye on travel policy compliance, they can spot where a company is perhaps sending a lot of people from different departments or different units and suggest proactive ways to maximise the benefits or reduce spend in certain areas.

There are a number of tools, with Abacus, to support this. We have CRM tools, client-based middle-back-office systems with power suite solutions. The other side

is that travel companies can help make things easier for the traveller. We have a number of tools like Get There that allows business travellers to make bookings on simple itineraries themselves and they can be supported by the travel management company. Other tools, like the Virtually There portal, provides real-time update on travel itineraries and changes, and allows the traveller to print out an e-ticket receipt if they need that. There’s also the Travel Intelligence tool. Companies can manage the risk of their key executives, or advise people who are in the field of potential risks, such as earthquakes, typhoons. So we’ve got the Travel Intelligence tool to do this. For instance, the attack on the US Embassy in Yemen recently—a company who has travellers in Yemen would be able to notify them immediately of that, advise them to avoid stopping over while they’re en route. That adds value to think about key executives, and assuring the company’s assets are protected and safe.”

corphub kualalumpur

text by Sharmila Rajah | photography by eric chun

KUALA LUMPUR Is READY For Its CLOSEUP

Antique Hastings Globe by Insight Guides

In Malaysia’s capital past and present, modern and historic, progressive thinking and traditional values all merge into a dynamic whole

KL Twin Towers (Inset) 20 |

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Kuala Lumpur is a metropolis with endless congruities. Past and present, tradition and modernity, cutting-edge and classic all mix and merge. This city always made its own rules, as easily as it remade its own image—the former tin mining town had undergone a furious change in such a short time to become one of the region’s most advanced economies.

Fuelled by ceaseless construction, cutting-edge technology and development, Kuala Lumpur is most certainly not a passive city. Everywhere, reminders of the past—like British-era structures—flirt with the city’s smooth modern architecture.

As a harbinger of things to come, there’s no escaping the futuristic-looking Petronas Twin Towers with its colossal spires that dominate the skyline. Business travellers will find Kuala Lumpur’s business-friendly surroundings very convenient. There’s an ultra-modern international airport, adequate office spaces, fully equipped business centres, hotels and service apartments to ensure comfort, convenience and accessibility for a favourable business and living environment.

Malaysia’s capital city also pulsates with

energy and a wealth of shopping, sightseeing, café culture and nightlife plus year-round exhibitions and trade shows.

Counting on domestic demand Though the city’s prosperity seems perpetual and commerce flows thick and fast, Kuala Lumpur is bracing for its most challenging time to date—the current global economic crisis.

The government remains optimistic, claiming the economy will not plunge into a deep recession. A US$2 billion (B) stimulus package, they hope, will do the trick. Second Finance Minister Tan Sri Nor Mohamed Yakcop says the economy remains strong and stable, supported by high banking liquidity and strong private sector confidence. Just recently, the government has given the economy another boost via a second stimulus package of US$16B. Malaysia expects a 3.5% economic growth this year, counting on domestic demand to keep the sector afloat, but may have to concede to slashing its figures to stave off recession.

While fears of a market downturn are publicly downplayed, some Kuala Lumpur insiders admit they’re keeping a worried

eye on the market. The government’s commitment to privatisation, constant restructuring, and reform may continue to promote growth and expansion. Kuala Lumpur has been, for some time, the choice for much foreign direct investment, which totaled US$12.9B in 2008, the highest in the region. The continuous presence of multinational corporations and the relocation of a number to Kuala Lumpur, further stress the city’s role as an emerging corporate hub. Kuala Lumpur, a city that’s proud of its history and constantly looks to the future, will have to draw from its past to endure the storms ahead.

In 1998, policy measures that the country took during the 1997 financial crisis were heavily criticised but were later acknowledged as effective. Its ability to successfully do so now may ensure continued foreign direct investment.

The driving force For now, the tourism industry seems to be powering the economy forward. (The tourism industry received US$54B from the second stimulus package to upgrade tourist spots

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and diversify tourism projects.) The start of the year saw close to two million tourists arriving in the country. This month, the numbers are expected to balloon as Kuala Lumpur hosts the F1 World Championships (Kuala Lumpur was the first Southeast Asian city to host the championships). New hotels like Novotel and Traders have arrived in the city, along with flagship stores of major fashion brands.

Returning soon is the Regent, slated to open in 2011, followed by the prestigious St. Regis in 2014. Already occupying a similar address in the esteemed Kuala Lumpur Sentral Precinct is the stylishly sleek Hilton KL, which recently debuted its dramatic, multi-functional event facility, Level Six. To stand out in the Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Events (MICE) industry, Hilton KL set out to create the perfect space for business travellers with a new ballroom, living room-styled business lounge and brand new meeting rooms. The Hilton KL is located close to the sprawling Kuala Lumpur Sentral, a modern transportation hub integrating all major rail transport networks, including the Express Rail Link that connects the business traveller directly to the Kuala Lumpur International Airport. The city has recently transformed itself into a corporate aviation hub with the opening of the Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport’s Terminal 3.

With the new airport, travelling by private plane is luxuriously convenient for the business traveller: there are no delays, no layovers, no security lines and far fewer problems when it comes to lastminute travel. The airport provides private jet travel from the city to anywhere in the world. However, if flying private remains significantly more expensive for companies that are cost cutting, there’s always Air Asia X for affordable flights to destinations like London, Australia, and China. Also, the 50% rebate on all landing charges to all airlines operating from Malaysia is bound to attract more fights, bringing in more visitors to the country.

Exciting venues Having hosted prestigious events such as the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Conference, the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur remains a favourite among corporate travellers. The hotel’s close proximity to the Twin Towers at the Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC) and the Petronas Philharmonic Auditorium, gives MICE participants and organisers the opportunity to shop, dine,

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TOP To BOTTOM: Sentral Ballroom, Hilton, Kuala Lumpur; Business Lounge, Hilton, Kuala Lumpur

and enjoy world-class entertainment. For the busy corporate traveller, Westin KL is ideal: the Westin Guest Office combines the technology of an office with the comforts of a guest room. There’s even the Westin One Call designed to organise and facilitate all your meeting needs. Savour the hotel’s location in the Golden Triangle—explore the neighbouring areas for an endless choice of dining, shopping, and entertainment (see “The Queens of Retail” on page52 for more of KL’s shopping options).

New restaurants are popping up—and sitting around the table are many of Kuala Lumpur’s power players, financers, and construction bosses. The city boasts a thriving nightlife—corporate travellers can unwind with a stiff drink or hit the dance floor. None is hotter than the restaurants and bars on Changkat Bukit Bintang, Asian Heritage Row, and Jalan P. Ramlee. Pop into the luxurious Pavilion Kuala Lumpur where flagship stores of international fashion labels rub shoulders with small, exquisite boutiques.

Three years ago, the city got a shake-up with the completion of the Kuala Lumpur Convention Center. Fast forward to 2009, this convention center with its glass facade has a full roster, hosting many international events and exhibitions, including the 6th World Chambers Congress 2009. (Kuala

Lumpur is the first city in Southeast Asia to host such an event.) Other events coming to the city include the Ninth Forbes Global CEO Conference and the Global Islamic Wealth Management Conference 2009.

Kuala Lumpur, since 2002, has become the center for Islamic banking.

Vibrant political environment Kuala Lumpur has reawakened politically with the rise of a more vocal and popular opposition after the general elections of 2008. The city’s roughly 1.7 million residents have witnessed this transition.

The adjustments have not escaped the notice of international investors. In March Najib Razak (the current Deputy Prime minister) may become the country’s next leader. The 55-year old British-educated Najib has much on his plate—he will be leading a government still struggling to turn recover from election losses amid the first likely recession in eight years. Kuala Lumpur remains a striving, thriving city that’s driven to succeed. And if the government’s ambitious efforts to rescue the economy succeed, then Kuala Lumpur may well escape the crisis unscathed. Banking on its natural beauty, five-star facilities, and sophisticated accommodation, the city hopes to maintain its successful track record in the corporate market. The race is on.

corphub southkorea

TEXT BY TERRIE V. GUTIERREZ | PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WWW.LEONARDO.COM

South Korea’s

World Domination Strategy

Since the 1960s, South Korea has been growing at a tremendous pace.

What stimulates the growth?

Strong belief in themselves and big meetings

IT’S KOREA’S CENTURY. LOOK AROUND. From products and design—Samsung designs have consistently won awards and critical attention from design houses—to technology and food, the Korean aesthetic is gaining a foothold in the zeitgeist. Even Hollywood has taken notice—the recent Keanu Reeves-Sandra Bullock starrer, The Lake House was a pale remake of the Korean cult classic Il Mare. Whereas some 20 years ago, it was the Japanese who dominated the tourism landscape, now it’s Koreans who are the world travellers. For instance, tourism figures show that Koreans account for the biggest chunk of tourist arrivals in the Philippines. Arguably, the trend can be seen in other countries as well.

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Market penetration When did this start, this Korean century?

While the general public is only noticing the growing number of Korean products and technology in the world market, the country has been expanding as early as the 1960s. Since that time, the Korean economy has shown signs of exponential growth. From 1962 to 2005, the country’s gross national income has grown from a conservative US$2.3B to a staggering US$786.8B. In fact, even the 1997 Asian crisis was only a minor glitch in the country.

The Korean economy foundered a bit, but recovered to reach US$805.5B in 2006.

The years of rapid growth has made it the world’s 12th largest trading partner.

Over the years, its economy shifted from agriculture-based to manufacturing and was one of the first to shift to services. Today, the country is a leader in automobiles, petrochemicals, electronics, shipbuilding, textiles, and steel—industries that have propelled the country’s gross domestic product from 3.1% in 2003, to 4.6% in 2004, and 4% in 2005. Korea is a leader in IT and electronics, accounting for some 30% of the country’s trade volume. In fact, Korea’s semiconductor industry has grown by leaps and bounds in the past decade that it is now the third largest in the world.

FROM TOP: The Disneyland-like grounds of Lotte Hotel; girls in national costume;

What makes the achievement even more remarkable is that this has all been achieved internally. The growth has been from the inside out.

Says one foreign investor who declines to be name for this article, “Koreans have a very strong sense of believing in their products. They grew up with the idea that local is best. In a sense, this makes it harder for foreign companies to penetrate their market. But in another sense, it also pushes industries here to produce more and expand outside the country.”

Indeed, in terms of multinationals coming in, the market is still growing.

But the Korean government has been stepping up the offers, offering incentives Scenes of a country in flux CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Factory store front; underground station sign; Lobby of Lotte (yes,the candy brand); Lotte Hotel 24 |

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to foreign companies who set up shop in the country—either on their own or in partnership with local companies.

“In food and consumer goods, I think market penetration of foreign business is going to be hard,” says Rex Lewis, who worked in the R&D department of a US firm in Seoul. “I think the attitude of believing in local products is stronger in older folks, but certainly it is there. Partnerships between local and international manufacturing companies are more common.”

Convention city Korea is positioning itself to be a convention destination. It’s already on its way; it’s one of the most sought after convention cities in the world. In fact, statistics show that Korea held 185 international meetings in 2005 and was ranked 14th worldwide in the number of meetings held. Seoul had 109 international meetings in the same period, and was ranked ninth worldwide.

The figure is has gone up since then, considering the support the government is placing on making the country the top convention destination. Around 10 years ago, a convention promotion law was passed and later amended in 2003. The act essentially fosters development of “convention cities,” facilitates construction of convention centers, and guarantees government support for conventions held in the country. The government has dedicated four convention cities: Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Jeju-do.

Indeed, the country is committed to pursuing this goal. The opening of Incheon International Airport almost a decade ago has made the country a major transportation hub for East Asia, making access to the country easier. Seoul’s major convention facilities are located within an hour from Incheon International Airport and the country’s excellent transportation network

makes it easy for travellers to navigate the city as well as connect to different parts of the country. Its railways system is also topnotch.

The Korea Train Express (KTX), the countr y’s high-speed train, makes connections even easier. KTX runs through the heart of the country and connects all major cities within a two-hour range.

There’s no shortage of beds, either.

Hotels, ranging from the super-deluxe to budget accommodations, are readily available. As of 2006, Korea has a total of 58,655 rooms in 588 hotels. For those who would like a different experience, Korea has a unique temple-stay programme. And like most cities in Southeast Asia, hotels, shopping centers, and business centers are all located within minutes of each other. For instance, COEX Convention and Exhibition Center in Seoul’s Gangnam district, one of South Korea’s largest convention centres, is situated on the grounds of the Korean World Trade Center complex, which features a COEX shopping mall, several luxury hotels, a multiplex cinema, the COEX Aquarium and a casino! COEX is just one of seven huge convention complexes in the country.

“Koreans have a very strong sense of believing in their products. They grew up with the idea that local is best.”

South Korea has seven major convention centers.

Pick your venue…

COEX Location: Seoul Capacity of largest room (theatretype): 9,420

BEXCO Location: Busan Capacity of largest room (theatretype): 4,840

EXCO Location: Daegu Capacity: 6,146

ICC JEJU Location: Jeju Capacity: 11,830

KINTEX Location: Gyeonggi-do Capacity: 3,070 Kimdaejung Convention Center Location: Gwangju Capacity: 2,210

Incheon Convention Center Location: Incheon Capacity: 4,420

Special Feature

MiND YOUR BUSiN ESS

Business Hotels

l and occupancy ve tra s es sin bu rt hu s ha rn tu wn The global do go beyond price cuts to n gio re e th in ls te ho g rin ur sp rates, e the traveller back. and be creative in their bid to lur wn on the situation Jamie Shum gets the lowdo

Main picture: Ritz Carlton, Singapore, Business Centre

26 | Frequent traveller

he Singapore Tourism Board (STB) announced in February a S$90 million (M) initiative aimed to help the tourism sector ride through the current recession. STB also projected the number of visitors to fall to around 9.5 million in 2009 compared to 10.1 million visitors last year.

The MICE (Meetings, Incentive Travel, Conventions and Exhibitions) industry has not been spared the bloodshed.

According to STB, recent meetings and events attendance and spending are down by 4% from last year and projected business levels for the rest of the year are 4% lower than a year ago.

What does this mean for the local hotel industry, which relies heavily on business travellers? Singapore, after all, has been repeatedly recognised as Asia’s Top Convention City by the Union of International Associations, and the Best Business City in the World for seven consecutive years by Business Traveler magazine Asia Pacific 2007.

The economic outlook doesn’t look promising. The Lion City is seeing more cancellation and postponement of shows due to poor corporate sentiments, and drastic budget cuts for business travel have unequivocally hurt hotel takings. Despite the economic crunch, business hotels in the city are rallying with creative ways to lure in new clients and keep the ones they have happy.

Different strokes Around 70% of the guests at The Ritz-Carlton Millenia are business travellers. But even its location, which allowed the award-winning hotel to command a premium during Singapore’s F1 race last September, proved no match for the subsequent onslaught of the current financial crisis.

In its bid to encourage bookings, the hotel recently launched in Januar y its S$590 Road Warrior package, which includes a night’s stay, meals and airport limousine transfer all at 40% off its normal price. But are slashing prices a quick fix and effective solution to the crisis? The business traveller today is dictated by a myriad of factors such as length of stay, personal prejudices, location, image, and other different needs in a market where cost-cutting is now the new operative word.

According to an International Herald Tribune news report, business travellers have been bemoaning the absence of à la carte and added-value services for the longest time. For example, why should whistle-stop visitors pay for what they don’t need over and above a comfortable room and then pay even more for egregious phone, Internet and mini-bar charges?

The Hilton Hotel, whose business travellers comprise of up to 80% of its guests, has revved up its menu of value-added services, allowing for greater flexibility. Early check-ins and late checkouts as well as its loyalty programme where points and miles are earned with hotel and airline partners are just some of the carrots the hotel is dangling to lure more guests. The hotel even allows the option of paying for additional points and the transfer of these points between friends and family to secure that “free” vacation.

Another hotel that has bucked this trend is the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts group. They became the first international hotel group this January to offer free Wi-Fi and wired Internet to all 60 of its Shangri-La and Traders hotels and resorts to combat the current economic downturn and reduced business travel budgets.

“Offering free Internet is further evidence of our commitment to Shangri-La’s service to our customers during these uncertain times,” says Madhu Rao, managing director and chief executive officer. “No longer considered a luxury, guests are demanding high-speed Internet access as an essential room requirement and as something that should be included as a standard service by an international hotel group.”

To encourage long-stay business travellers, guests who stay for 30 days or more enjoy reduced rates starting from S$310, which include complimentary breakfast, complimentary local calls, and other

discounts on food and beverage, laundry, dry cleaning and business centre services.

Over at the Royal Plaza on Scotts, business travellers increased from 70% to 85% capacity after its 2007 major facelift. But the current crisis has seen occupancy numbers decline, prompting the management to take action to reverse this trend. The whistle-stop traveller, who sees three or four customers in different locations and places a premium on time and expediency, is one segment the hotel is targeting.

“These road warriors are no longer looking for just a ‘home-away-from-home’ in a hotel but an ‘office-away-from-office,’” says Lynn Tan, director of marketing communications. “A well-fitted business lounge with all the necessary gadgets and adaptors and fast printers need to be available round the clock to give clients a compelling reason to stay at your hotel beyond providing reasonable satisfaction.”

Naumi Hotel on Seah Street, the only business boutique hotel in Singapore has already picked up awards by Singapore Tatler and Condé Nast Traveller for its winning design and concept.

Located smack in the heart of the Central Business District, the 40-room boutique hotel is decked with designer furniture pieces from Poltrona Frau and Cappellini and is positioned as a designer private sanctuary smack in the sprawl of Singapore’s corporate jungle.

However in these difficult times when reduced budgets figure more prominently than the hotel’s origami-themed façade and garden motif, the boutique hotel’s unique attempt at differentiating itself from the competition with its female-only floor could just be its trump card during these volatile times.

Access to the sixth floor, which is marked by designer wallpaper, plush carpets, and soft lighting, is restricted to women via a security glass door for absolute privacy. The rooms are distinctly feminine where a scent of calming aromatherapy fills this air and full range of Aesop skincare products, and the latest fashion magazines greet its guests. Female aides are on hand to assist and while safety is at the top of its list, the hotel also ensures that its business travellers get the job done too—a complete Cisco Unified Communications System provides total security in sending and receiving confidential information when outside the hotel premises. Naumi hotel has also reduced its hotel rates by 30% and launched a loyalty programme to keep guests coming back and attract new ones.

The situation outside Singapore In other parts of Asia, hotels admit that things

Special Feature

Business Hotels

ESS N i S U RB U O Y MiND 2 3

1 6

4 5

4. ONE World Hotel, living room of the Peridot Club 5. Royal Plaza on Scotts, Singapore, Club Deluxe bathroom 6. Garden Hotel, exterior from the top view

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1. Radisson Hotel Pudong, the lobby 2. Hilton Hotel, Singapore, ThailandSingapore Classroom 3. Hotel Mira, the reception area

could be better. But rather than look at the softening economic situation, many of them concentrate on bolstering operations and thinking of innovative ways to promote their properties.

“We just do our work and concentrate on the needs of our customers,” says Ronnie Cheng, general manager of The Garden Hotel Guangzhou, one of the city’s bigger business hotels. It’s a sentiment shared by others.

In Shanghai, business travel has gone down this year, says Gerhard Fasching, general manager of Radisson Hotel Pudong Century Park. However, their focus has always been the same, “to add value, reward loyalty, and enhance service levels,” says Mr. Fasching, who is optimistic that things will start to turn soon.

Radisson Hotel, located in Shanghai’s Pudong district—the city’s financial, business, and cultural heart—is the closest hotel to the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, which makes the hotel the first choice of convention-goers, not just because of proximity, although that is a factor, but because businessmen know the hotel for its efficient staff, topnotch facilities, and sleek interiors. For now, most of Shanghai is anticipating

the World Expo 2010 next year. An estimated 70 million visitors are expected to participate, bringing much-needed business into the city.

“This year will continue to be challenging,” says Mr. Fasching, “but we’re expecting a modest upturn in the latter part of the year. And of course, we’re looking forward to Expo 2010.”

For his part, Mr. Essini Chai, director of sales and marketing of One World Hotel in Kuala Lumpur says that while the overall situation could be improved, “It’s a paradox scenario with our hotel because we make our guests feel good, valued, and emotionally connected. We try to keep a positive vibe in the hotel.” One World, a favourite with businessmen in KL, is located in the Petaling Jaya district, is adjacent to 1 Utama Shopping Centre—one of Malaysia’s most successful shopping centres showcasing more than 600 retail outlets, two cinemas with 20 screens and a 36-lane bowling alley.

Aside from the hotel’s proximity to the city center, Mr. Chai is justifiably proud of the hotel’s unique features. “We’re always providing valueadded benefits—we like to reward loyal customers and we try to align with the right partners.”

OWH/HOTEL/2009/03_Rooms Ad_133x193mm

Welcome to a world where daily discoveries can enrich your mind and nourish your soul.

45 minutes from the airport, 15 minutes from KL and next to the multi-award-winning 1 Utama Shopping Centre, towers the 5-star One World Hotel.

Humble as it appears from the outside, its interior paints a dramatically different picture of stunning crystal chandeliers and fine Italian marble artfully blended with Asian influences.

Here, you will find a range of world-class facilities catering to the needs, comfort and interests of business and leisure guests alike.

Function rooms spread over 4,000 sq.m., including a magnificent Imperial Ballroom with variable mood illumination and capacity to seat 2,000.

7 categories of guestrooms and suites ranging from 40 to 100 sq.m., lavishly furnished with hi-tech interactive services managed via LCD TVs. 6 signature restaurants, lounge and bars serving innovative creations and daring fusion dreamed up by master chefs.

And a spa that offers an easy access to an oasis of peace and tranquillity.

Then there is 1 Utama, with more than 5 million sq.ft. to keep you intrigued at Malaysia’s only shopping centre with a Rainforest and Sky Mall.

To experience this world of daily discoveries, begin your journey at www.oneworldhotel.com.my

For reservations or further enquiries, please call 603 7681 1118 or email reservations@oneworldhotel.com.my

29 first avenue , bandar utama city centre , 47800 petaling jaya, selangor, malaysia. toll free domestic: 1300 88 7888 toll free international: 1800 88 7888 tel: 603 7681 1111 fax: 603 7681 1188 email: sales@oneworldhotel.com.my website: www.oneworldhotel.com.my

Frequent traveller

2009 brings you an extremely Suite Deal at One World Hotel: Book a Peridot Club Deluxe Room from 1 January to 30 June 2009 and receive a complimentary upgrade to our Peridot Club Junior Suite. Terms and Conditions apply.

Special Feature

Business Hotels

ESS N i S U RB U O Y MiND Unique to the hotel is their “ONE Service” wherein guests only have to press one button on the room phone to summon a customer service executive who will then take care of their requests, be it room service, maintenance, concierge.

Notable also for its personalised ser vice is its The Peridot Club. The exclusive Peridot Lounge on level 19 of the hotel features a reading, games, and TV room. Guests also have exclusive use of two meeting rooms. In keeping with its personalised service, guests staying at the Peridot Club enjoy discreet and efficient check-in and check-out by club pursers, exclusive use of the club lounge, welcome drinks and fruit tray, complimentary breakfast, evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres and complimentary pressing of one suit upon arrival.

In contrast to its neighbors, Hong Kong remains relatively cushioned from the crisis, says Dirk Dalichau, general manager of The Mira Hong Kong. “The outlook for the travel industry for Hong Kong is still optimistic with some international source markets declining, while the regional markets show slight upward trends.”

This is good news for Mira Hotel, says Dalichau.

“The situation favours hotels like ours, especially since we’re the newest and the most designled and contemporary hotel here, offering an independent brand with extreme high value for money and many additional perks both in terms of product and services.” For over half a century, the Miramar Hotel in Hong Kong’s Tsimshatsui district has been a local landmark. In August last year, the hotel changed direction. Management renamed the hotel and re-focused its image and positioning. The result is The Mira Hong Kong, a design wonder that marries cutting-edge elements with urban luxury, sure to be a hit with design aficionados and businessmen alike. Management promises the ultimate in urban luxury when it opens in September.

“Apart from our amazing new facilities that transformed the hotel completely, we offer tremendous value for money, we can react quicker and also continue to operate more economically,” says Mr. Dalichau, listing the advantages of his hotel. “We are fortunate that we are able to keep focusing on our guests by offering the same high service levels and quality as before without compromising their experience.”

One of the features that promises to be exciting is

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A Business Black Book

Need-to-know addresses

Hilton Singapore 581 Orchard Road, Singapore 238883; tel (65) 67 372 233/67 322 917; www.hilton.com Number of rooms: 422 Who stays here: Perfect for groups who can avail of the enhanced Hilton HHonors programme that gives loyal guests a Personalised Online Group webpage that is customisable to the needs of the business group. The webpage helps to offload some administrative tasks as the page is dedicated to the specific group and it serves as a convenient one-stop shop to offering destination information, event details, and room reservations.

Naumi Hotel 41 Seah Street, Singapore 188396; tel (65) 6403 6000/6403 6010 (fax); www.naumihotel.com Number of rooms: 40 Who stays here: Women —its women-only floor has female aides to assist guests. The hotel also offers a loyalty programme where customers stand to enjoy stays at the hotel, shopping vouchers, dining perks at its affiliated restaurants Rang Mahal and Vansh, and a stay at a Hong Kong serviced apartment.

One World Hotel First Avenue, Bandar Utama City Centre, 47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia; www.oneworldhotel. com.my Who stays here:Those who plan to combine business with pleasure. The hotel is adjacent to the Utama City Centre and is accessible to the rest of KL’s many leisure establishments.

Radisson Hotel Pudong Century Park 1199 Ying Chun Road, Pudong, Shanghai, 200135, P.R. China; www.radisson.com/ shanghaicn_pudong Number of rooms: 362 rooms and suites Who stays here: Businessmen and convention-goers who like the hotel’s central location and proximity. May catch a good chunk of the visitors coming for next year’s World Expo 2010.

Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore 22 Orange Grove Road Singapore 258350; tel (65) 6737 3644/6737 3257 (fax); www.shangri-la.com Number of rooms: 750 Who stays here: Businessmen who need to stay for a longer period. The hotel offers free broadband Internet access in the hotel, including function rooms; lower rate for stays of 30 days or longer.

The Garden Hotel Guangzhou 368 Huanshi Dong Lu, Guangzhou, 510064, The People’s Republic of China; tel: (86-20) 83338989; www.thegardenhotel. com.cn Number of rooms: 828 rooms and suites Who stays here: Businessmen who love its unstinting luxury and reliable service. The Garden Hotel Guangzhou won the Platinum Five-Star Award issued by the China National Tourism Administration, the only national brand hotel in South China to receive the award, the highest hospitality award in China.

The Mira Hong Kong 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong; www.themirahotel.com Number of rooms: 493 rooms and suites Who will stay here: Business travellers who love cutting-edge design and unique features

The Ritz Carlton, Millenia Singapore 7 Raffles Avenue, Singapore, 039799; tel (65) 6 337 8888/6 338 0001 (fax); www.ritzcarlton.com Number of rooms: 608 Who stays here: Those on short-stay business trips but who love the idea of luxury.

business hotels the new health and wellness concept that is set to launch when the hotel opens. It is innovative services and concepts such as these, says Mr. Dalichau, that will help the hotel weather the crisis.

“We try to keep concentrating on strong markets that offer growth opportunities like China, Asia Pacific, India, Russia, and the MiddleEast,” says Mr. Dalichau.

The tough—and clever—will survive The global recession has made travellers a lot more price-sensitive, prompting them to pick hotels that give the biggest bang for their buck.

The silver lining amid the doom and gloom is that STB is expecting Asia to emerge as the economic bright spark when the recession ends. Hotels that are flexible and creative while maintaining their market positioning and branding should be able to weather this financial storm and emerge stronger than ever. — additional reporting, Terrie V. Gutierrez

ore, Waterfall Koi Pond

Shangri-La Hotel Singap

What do you look for in a business hotel?

We ask several people who travel often for business: Fast Internet Access — Essential for checking emails, working on presentations, and “for surfing if there’s nothing to watch on cable,” says Louise Tan, a writer for a regional agribubusiness magazine.

24-Rooom Service — After a full day of meetings, it’s good to have the option of ordering in.

Location — “I don’t want to have to travel far for meetings or the possibility of getting late,” says Earnest Yang, a research & development engineer.

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A Good Concierge — who can advise you on finding a good restaurant or getting directions.

Frequent traveller

Shuttle Service — A boon, especially if you’re carrying loads of material.

destinationchengdu photography by Mike Smith

Ancient temples, huge parks, narrow streets, and a laid-back attitude make Chengdu an interesting city to visit.

The capital of Sichuan province in western China has grown into a clean, cosmopolitan city of over 10 million people that gets its income from tourism, agriculture, and trade. Multinational corporations of food, electronics, IT, and finance have headquarters in the city. This influx in industry has resulted in a vibrant tourism scene where five-star hotels like the Sheraton Chengdu Lido share space with many cheaper options. There are large modern shopping centers around Chunxi Road and designer label shops at Tianfu Square plus numerous markets selling local goods and handicrafts. Getting around this bustling city is easy as taxis are plentiful and cheap. For those who fancy side trips, tea plantations, the world’s largest Buddha statue, and mystical mountains are only a few hours drive away.

Wandering around One way of knowing a city is to find out about its past. I wasn’t much into history, but the tour of Chengdu’s older parts were interesting, largely because it allowed me to see firsthand a quality of life that has all but vanished.

I suggest you check out Wu Hou Temple, dedicated to Zhuge Liang, the Chancellor of Shu Han during the height of the Three Kingdoms period of China some 1,800 years ago. It is a large complex with peaceful, attractive gardens and impressive clay statues of the man, his family and servants. Those who aren’t history buffs like me will enjoy the walk around the quiet areas of the temple.

Next door is Jinli Street with market stalls selling handicrafts such as lacquer, umbrellas, bamboo items, carvings, brocade, dolls, and, of course, stuffed panda toys.

Also in the area is a wide selection of food stalls so I grabbed a quick lunch of san da pao (made from sticky rice, brown sugar, sesame, and beans), wantons, and dried persimmon.

Wenshou Temple was more interesting.

Full of life and atmosphere, the large, mainly red monastery is home to the Buddhist Association of Sichuan. Monks and devotees strolled along the narrow, pillared alleys, joss sticks in one hand and a mobile phone in the other, providing

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the observer with a quirky example of old meets new.

The smell of burning incense wafted over the five main halls and an impressive pagoda with bells. Once you’re tired of wandering around, take a break at the vegetarian restaurant in the premises. There’s also a popular teahouse nearby that is great for people watching. The surrounding streets sell handicrafts, temple offerings, and paintings.

Foreigners won’t get lost in Chengdu as the city fathers were very practical in naming their streets—or at least, the English equivalent of the names were practical. We explored streets with names like Computer Street, Horse Street, Dye Works, and Summer Socks to name a few.

We headed for neighbouring Narrow and Wide Lanes just as it began to rain.

These old lanes contain 45 preserved and restored courtyards in traditional Ming and Qing styles. Here and there, the modern world makes its presence felt, as with the Starbucks situated next to local coffee shops and teahouses, but it’s easy enough to ignore these temptations and explore arts & crafts shops and museums instead.

TEA Time

Rightly famous for its teahouses, spicy food, and giant pandas, Sichuan hit world news late last year when a strong earthquake devastated the province.

However, the province, particularly Chengdu, its capital, has bounced back and this resurgence was what Mike Smith had come to experience

IN CHENGDU

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The famous homemade tea of Chengdu; tea time for both locals and foreigners; One of the endangered species of Chengdu – the pandas

www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |

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A thriving night life

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Cyclists on the street in the rain; Hot spicy sauce; The Golden Summit temple; Old couple waltzing in the park; Jinli Street; The magical face changing routines of a performer

Chengdu doesn’t sleep early, which, in addition to its favourable climate, makes it one of the most livable cities in China.

Our evening started with traditional Sichuan Maodu hot pot, in which we cooked assorted vegetables and meats such as chicken feet, pig’s ears, intestines, and all sorts of unknown delicacies. These were then dipped into sesame seed oil mixed with garlic and herbs. The aromatic peppercorns made me sweat, turned my mouth numb, and caused my eyes to tear, but the food was so delicious that I wanted more.

A must-visit is the Shufengyayun Sichuan Opera. You’ll be amazed as I was at the seemingly instant and magical facechanging routines of the performers. I’m still trying to figure out how the artists changed their brightly coloured face masks in a fraction of a second in front of a very appreciative audience. This was the best part of the show for me. The spitting fire performance, skillful hand shadow play, and clever puppetr y were also excellent. I recommend going half an hour before the show starts to witness the makeup session before taking your seat.

Then enjoy the spectacle of being served tea from pots with metre-long spouts, another Sichuan specialty.

The opera made us thirsty so we took a cab to Pub Street near Heijiang Pavilion and Jiuyan Bridge but the outdoor pubs were quiet so we moved to Club Street where the bars were livelier with packed tables, trendy DJs, and live bands.

Famous resident A visit to Sichuan province and Chengdu won’t be complete without seeing its world-famous giant pandas. So at first opportunity, we visited these endangered species. The rare giant panda, with only about 1,000 roaming free, has become the symbol of wildlife conservation efforts, as well as peace and friendship. Around 85% of them reside in Sichuan province.

They are born naked like rats, tiny at just 100g but grow rapidly as they feed on their mother’s milk. The name “panda” means cat-bear when literally translated from the Chinese, a very appropriate name for these creatures with their round faces and stocky upright bodies. Despite efforts by conservationists, trying to get

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Chengdu Detours

A visit to Chengdu won’t be complete without some stopovers outside the city

the panda to breed is still an uphill battle and the only way to see many of these animals is in captivity so off we went to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding.

I wasn’t sure what to expect but was impressed to find that the research facility was superbly set up with large natural open enclosures, for pandas to spend their days rolling, climbing, wrestling with each other, eating bamboo, and of course, sleeping. At the time we visited, there were eight babies in children’s cots, secure behind a glass screen, looking impossibly cute, evidence that scientists are making headway in the breeding programme. The centre is also home to the smaller red pandas which have bushy tails and look and move like a fox. Aside from the pandas, the facility also houses other endangered species.

Park avenues Chengdu’s slower pace of life is best witnessed in the early morning at one of its numerous parks. People’s Park and Bamboo Park are particularly worth a visit. I went one morning to the popular People’s Park to observe the large gathering of ballroom dancers waltzing and cha cha-ing under the shade of large leafy trees. Others played badminton or practiced traditional Chinese martial arts such as sword play, fans, or tai chi in their traditional blue and red silk pajamas. The park was abloom with flowers and there’s a small lake with boats for hire. Tired of going around, I rested at a teahouse by the water and peoplewatched. There were people playing mahjong, getting a back massage, or having their ears cleaned while sipping tea on comfor table bamboo chairs.

All looked content with life.

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Leshan Grand Buddha About 180 kilometers south of Chengdu or a few hours’ ride is the city of Leshan, famous for the biggest Buddha statue in the world. In Lingyun temple, monks chant in front of interesting life-sized statues of gods and other figures. However, the main attraction of the complex is the massive, outdoor Grand Buddha created during the Tang dynasty over a 90-year period.

The 71-metre high Buddha, carved out of a cliff face, sits solemnly above the point where the Mingjiang, Qingyi and Dadu rivers converge and was built to protect boats on the fast-flowing

water. Visitors can access the Buddha in two ways: From the top or by boat. My first view was of the head of the Buddha with its seven-metre long ears, three-metre wide eyes and a dizzying view of its feet below.

Wear sensible shoes because it’s a long descent down the narrow staircase to the base just above the river where people make their offerings.

The best view is from the river where you really appreciate the full structure before leaving for Emei, 40km away. Boat rides start from Leshan City pier and cost from 50 yuan per person plus an extra fee for prime photography spots on the upper decks.

Mount Emei Emei is a sleepy town at the base of Mount Emei with good

Vital information

How to get there: SilkAir now has direct flights to Chengdu four times a week. Check www.silkair.com for schedules.

Best time to visit: March-June or SeptemberNovember. However, avoid national holidays at the beginning of April and October.

accommodation and a sprinkling of shops and restaurants for tourists. Souvenirs shops sell tea and stuffed monkeys, a hint of what’s to come.

Mount Emei is a major Buddhist holy site and is 3,100 metres above sea level. To get there from Emei we took a local bus that climbed and wound its way up the summit for two hours as the temperature gradually dropped, and then we walked to the Buddhist temple near the peak. Bring a thick winter coat with you or rent one from a stall nearby as it can get really cold here.

We climbed hundreds of steps; others took a more leisurely alternative and were carried by porters in sedan chairs to the cable car. En route through the forests we passed cheeky, sometimes aggressive, Tibetan macaque monkeys.

These monkeys are stocky with thick fur to ward off the cold.

They’re also not above

stealing food from foolhardy tourists who ignored advice about bringing food with them.

Stalls selling fungus and herbal medicines line the lower parts of the path. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t accommodating the day we were there and we walked in light snow, which restricted views of the surrounding hills. We rode a cable car to the summit but within seconds we were shrouded in clouds so thick we couldn’t see the temple roof when we alighted.

Despite not being able to see the sacred golden Buddha supported on golden elephants, the eerie fog-shrouded atmosphere made the journey worthwhile. Icicles hanging from temple roofs, flowers covered in frost, and hundreds of locks hanging on railings for good luck added to the experience.

Good to know: Use taxis to get around Chengdu. Your hotel will write down the destinations in Chinese for you.

Chengdu is warm but take winter clothing if you are travelling to the mountains, even in spring and autumn.

Experiment with Sichuan food. Yes the hot pot can be spicy and some items look strange but it’s delicious and worth the effort.

Start exploring early. It’s the best time for people- watching in the parks and the pandas are most active in the research centres. www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |

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destination‡southafrica PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATIONAL PARKS BOARD

FROM TOP Champagne Castle wild flower; Zulu ladies serving meal at Stewarts Farm; Dining with Falaza rhinos;

MAIN PICTURE: Africa Drakensberg view; Shakaland performers (inset);

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AFRICAN DREAMS

South Africa’s vast province of Kwazulu-Natal has a rich culture and history of battles and brave warriors and a land blessed with beautiful sub-tropical flora and fauna, perfect for those who want a bit of exotic with their luxury, says Amy Van SOUTH AFRICA’S DRAKENSBERG Range at the Royal Natal National Park is one of the most stunning places on earth, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is home to the imposing Amphitheatre, a mighty wall of basalt rising over 1,000 metres from the Tugela Valley to the Lesotho plateau, nearly 3,000 metres above sea level. The wall extends some five kilometres from what is known as the Eastern Buttress to the Sentinel Peak in the west. Viewing this majesty will take your breath away.

Nearby—or however “near” is measured in this vast land—is Tugela Falls, the world’s second highest waterfalls (the tallest is Angel in Venezuela). If you have the stamina to trek for three hours up to see the falls, it is well worth the effort. Start your journey in the early morning before the area is blanketed by fog. While in the area, you may get to see ancient bushman paintings—30,000-year old rock art by the San people, considered one of South Africa’s greatest treasures. (Some of the paintings are fading, so sometimes it’s hard to see with the naked eye—usually only an experienced guide can show you where the paintings are.) This is Africa at its most majestic.

The best way to see the area is to book at a good hotel, one that can arrange tours and other activities for you. We stayed at the Cavern Drakensberg Resort, located near the Royal Natal National Park and flanked

by beautiful mountains, forest and streams.

For 60 years, the Carte family has owned and managed The Cavern, which started off as a cattle farm and then a guest farmhouse.

Today, the resort offers comfortable rooms with modern amenities, a bar modelled like a cave, and a fine restaurant. If you’re keen for a picnic, the chef can prepare a delicious basket of fresh fruit, homemade bread, and cheese.

The hotel also offers activities such as guided hikes to Tugela Falls, horseback riding, mountain biking, and bird watching.

Nearby are important historic sites such as the famous Cannibal Cavern, which was inhabited by a small tribe of Amazizi hiding from the invading legions of Shaka, the Zulu King, and who eventually resorted to cannibalism to survive.

Another lovely property with spectacular mountain views is Champagne Castle Hotel.

The accommodation is spacious and plush, and the surrounding landscape, breathtaking.

The hotel started off as a simple farmhouse in 1928 and has been refurbished and expanded over the decades. Mountain trekking in Champagne Castle is a must as the air is crisp and the area lush and green. The altitude at 3,377 metres is the second highest point in South Africa (the highest is the Injasuti Dome at 3,410m).

The hotel can help organise different walks and hikes depending on how much time and stamina you have. www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Giraffe at Pakamisa; Hippo and Croc Tour on Lake St Lucia; The Cascades

The Culture Club IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ZULU CULTURE AND TRADITION 1. MEET THE LOCALS. Stewart’s Farm, in the heart of Zululand near Empangeni, gives you a taste of African culture. Stay in traditional accommodation—beehive huts decorated in ethnic fabric and tribal memorabilia. Guests can enjoy and learn tribal dancing, the significance of the kraal or homestead, social structure, traditional dress, regalia, crops and food. You also get to eat a traditional Zulu meal prepared by the women in an umuzi (homestead).

Behind Stewart’s Farm is a Zulu village where locals will be happy to show guests around.

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By AMYVAN

Visit their sangoma (spiritual healer or shaman) in his hut, where he practices herbal and magical medicine. Also go to the local shebeen (informal bar) to taste the local beer and see how it is made. Travellers who want to do volunteer work can spend half a day working on the Back to Roots community project by offering their skills and knowledge to local causes.

Activities include working in the vegetable gardens, milking cows, picking corn, fetching water, building huts, making Zulu beer, and even teaching at the local school.

2. LIVE WHERE THEY LIVED. Book a stay in Shakaland, a

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

resort built like a traditional umuzi. This was actually the former film set of Shaka Zulu, a movie about the rise and fall of Shaka, the greatest Zulu warrior in history. Now, this unique resort also has accommodations patterned after Zulu beehive huts and cultural programmes. The staff is friendly, well-trained, and take immense pride in introducing Zulu culture to overseas guests.

PERSONALISED TOURS To visit all these places, contact African Trailblazers. These highly professional and experienced tour guides will bring you to fascinating attractions around the

region as well as accompany you on extreme adventure activities.

Tours can also be customised depending on your preference and budget.

African Trailblazers, tel (+27) 79-420-5151/711909-812/(+65) 9382-2936 (Singapore office). www.africantrailblazers.com CONTACT DETAILS Cavern Drakensberg Resort D119 Rd, Bergville District, Northern Drakensberg, KwaZulu Natal; tel (+27) 36-438-6270. www.cavern.co.za Champagne Castle Hotel R600 Champagne Valley, Central Drakensberg; tel (+27) 36-468-1063; www.champagnecastle.co.za

Falaza Game Park and Spa PO Box 13, Hluhluwe, 3960, Zululand, South Africa; tel (+27) 35-562-2319/35-562-2086 (fax); www.falaza.co.za Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, PO Box 1097, Pongola 3170, Kwazulu-Natal, Republic of South Africa; tel (+27) 34413-3559/34-413-1817 (fax); www.pakamisa.co.za Stewart’s Farm Kwabhekithunga/Stewart’s Farm Road, Nkwaleni Valley, between Eshowe and Melmoth; tel (27) 35-460-0929; www.stewartsfarm.com Zulu Nyala Game Lodge Msinene Road, Hluhluwe, 3960, South Africa; tel (+27) 35-562-0169;

WATER WORLD A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lake St. Lucia is home to turtles, whales, dolphins, crocodiles, hippos and over 500 species of birds. One of the most popular activities here is the hippo and croc boat tour, best experienced in the late afternoon until sunset. While cruising, you will spot many endemic birds as well as clans of hippos and crocodiles in their natural environment.

This is also the habitat of the world’s oldest fish (coelacanth), which was thought to be related to the ancestors of land vertebrates and was known only from fossils until a living one was discovered in 1938.

Neighbouring St Lucia is the private Falaza Game Park and Spa, an impressive property where you can experience topnotch hotel facilities in an indigenous bush setting.

It’s a surreal experience to see a family of white rhinos grazing on the lawn several metres from your dining table. In the cooler evenings, you may spot zebras and other native animals on the grounds as well.

For a unique safari-style ambience, guests are offered luxuriously appointed tented rooms with en-suite bathrooms and private sundecks. If you are interested in excursions

to Lake St Lucia or game drives, they can arrange these too.

LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS There are many public and private game reserves in South Africa where you can view wildlife species, including Africa’s Big Five: leopard, lion, buffalo, elephant, and rhinoceros. Usually within the reserves are lodges where rooms range from rustic to luxury. Besides accommodation, the lodges include packages such as daily game drives, night game drives, and horseback safaris among other exciting activities.

The Zulu Nyala Private Game Reserve is one of the places that give a taste of the African bush to visitors. The reserve is home to an excellent variety of game including elephants, rhinos, buffalos, and leopards.

Experienced rangers will bring guests on drives just before dawn, or on afternoon drives that wrap up at sunset. Game viewing by spotlight after dark will give you an opportunity to see uncommon nocturnal species. Meanwhile, the hilltop Zulu Nyala Game Lodge offers accommodation and delicious meals to those who would like to enjoy some comfort and respite after a

day of activities.

For an exclusive retreat amid pristine African wilderness, make sure Pakamisa Private Game Reser ve is part of your itinerary. Situated in the middle of this extensive reserve is Pakamisa Lodge, which can accommodate up to 16 guests. Sunrise is especially spectacular here as the luxurious rooms afford breathtaking views of the verdant valleys and surrounding mountains.

Host and owner Isabella von Stepski, scion of a noble Austrian family, ensures that Pakamisa combines the elegance of a private home with a relaxed atmosphere and impeccable service.

One of the highlights in Pakamisa is horseback riding. Isabella’s beautiful Arabian horses were originally born and bred in Andalusia, Spain. Have the hotel arrange a horseback safari for you through the game reserve; it an unforgettable experience.

You can also go on a game drive with an experienced game ranger to see giraffes, zebras, waterbucks, warthogs, kudus, nyalas, impalas, bushbucks, baboons and other amazing wildlife. Finally, end your day around the campfire, under the brilliant star-lit African sky.

destinationfrenchcountryside photography by Collection Burgundy Tourism - Alain DOIRE Food Spread by Francis Vauban (Beaune Hospice Cellars)

u e P a Lde France

Rustic charms, hearty food, and fabulous wines are in store for the traveller who dares to explore France’s quaint towns, assures Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam

Everyone who’s been to Paris falls in love with the city. For the first half of 2008, visitors to the City of Light increased 2.2% to 17.3 million, despite the economic crunch, and French officials are expecting the numbers to hold this year. However, France is more than Paris.

For the intrepid traveller, the French countryside offers a glimpse into the true heart of France—if he or she is willing to give up the glitz and glamour of the capital city.

Normandy for the culture vultures To history buffs and people of a certain generation, this place will always be

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associated with the storming of the beaches of Normandy, the decisive battle that turned the tide against the Axis powers in World War II. However, travellers today visit the city for a very different reason: its ancient churches and castles, chateaus, and the great food.

Make the grand Abbaye de Le BecHellouin your first stop. A massive abbey built in 1034 and then rebuilt in the 18th century, it still houses Benedictine monks in flowing white robes who tend to the church and grounds. The wooden pews and magnificent altar also give rise to a feeling of awe. If you’re lucky, as I was, you might be in time to hear the monks and their Gregorian chants, sending you

back into the Middle Ages. The church and its grounds have a quiet contemplative air that may make you want to offer a few prayers, even if you’ve never prayed in your life.

After your walk around the gardens, have some crepes and cider at the charming café in front of the abbey’s gate before continuing with your explorations.

One of the most stunning structures in Normandy is the Chateau De Balleroy, situated in the town of the same name. Built in 1631 by the French architect Francois Mansart, the chateau, its grounds, and the town is one of the earliest examples of town planning in France. The courtyard, the lush manicured gardens, as well as the

terraces and pavilions invite the visitor to relax and take in the grandeur. The American millionaire Malcolm Forbes was so enthralled with the chateau that he bought it in 1970. In 1975, the chateau’s stable was converted into a museum of ballooning, of all things. Forbes was a ballooning enthusiast who collected artifacts related to ballooning.

Burgundy’s great wines and earthy fare Burgundy is widely known for its food and wine, and you don’t have to rely on wines found in restaurants or shops as Burgundy enables you to travel to the source—the vineyards themselves.

If you’re lucky, as I was, you might be in time to hear the monks and their Gregorian chants, sending you back into the Middle Ages

CLOCKWISE FROM Main Picture: Food spread in Burgungy; One of the vast vineyards in Beaujolais; Stunning structures of Normandy; Market in Dijon

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Some of the most famous and most expensive wines in the world come from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), a wine estate in Burgundy. You’ll be surprised to note that despite the opulence of its wine, the vineyard itself has a very simple design and architecture. Aside from making fine wines, DRC also conducts tours of its barrel and bottle cellars. The guides will even indulge you by showing you how they make the wine.

With good wine, can fabulous food be far behind? Burgundy is the perfect place to indulge your palate. Try Boeuf Bourguignonne—beef braised with onions, mushrooms, and vegetables in red wine; escargot (snails) with garlic parsley butter; savory Bresse chicken, and plenty of warm fresh bread and pastries.

Burgundy also produces many varieties of cheese. The best known Burgundy cheeses include the creamy white Chaource made from cow’s milk, the seasonal St-Florentin cheese from the Yonne valley, the rust-colored Époisses de Bourgogne, as well as Morvan’s goat cheeses. Don’t forget to buy some, since these cheeses last quite a long time in the freezer.

Brittany’s stunning vistas Now that you’ve partaken of Burgundy’s gastronomical delights and Normandy’s cultural high points, it’s time to embrace one of the most picturesque countryside you’ll ever come across. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Brittany with its dramatic and jagged cliffs beaten by the wind-tossed azure sea.

Brittany, in France’s northwest, is a peninsula and has the longest coastline in France, so you have striking views of cliff tops and the raging ocean. Brittany also has many intriguing attractions—like its megalithic monuments, stone structures that are scattered across the peninsula.

The largest of these monuments are near Carnac. Brittany is also known for its calvaries, carved sculptures of crucifixion scenes found at the crossroads of villages and small towns. Aside from natural rock formations, Brittany is famous for its walled towns, like Saint-Malo, a former stronghold of the Corsairs. Blessed as it is with many natural wonders, Brittany has another striking feature: Its coast is unusual

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Clockwise from Top Left: Brittany cliffs; food (Inset); costumed revellers in Avignon (also Inset); glass blown vases in Biot; Beaune Hospice cellars

because of its colouring. The Côte de Granite Rose (pink granite coast) stretches for more than 30 kilometres and is one of Europe’s most striking coastlines. This pink rock exists in only two other places in the world—Corsica and China.

The best way to see Brittany is by car.

Drive along the coastline on the GR34 road, from the port of Saint-Nazaire (in southern Brittany) to Mont Saint-Michel and be mesmerised by the rugged beauty of Brittany.

Given that the sea surrounds much of Brittany, much of its cuisine revolves around, what else, seafood! Feast on clams, cockles, prawns, shrimp, mussels, lobsters, oysters, scallops and crabs, as well as its wonderful cider and crepes.

Any restaurant in Brittany will offer you a menu full of seafood options for the hungry traveller.

Avignon in Provence Avignon is known as the City of the Popes or Altera Roma because at one point, the Roman Catholic papacy transferred its seat of power here. But while the Schism was eventually breached, there are indelible reminders of its time as a seat of power. Foremost among these is the Popes’ Palace, where the AntiPopes, as they were called, lived.

But now, Avignon is more known as a festival town. Each July the Avignon Festival brings life and energy to this city with its dance, theatre, and music performances that range from the traditional to the avant-garde. It’s been claimed that every year, some 100,000 visitors flock to the city for this event. There are actually two festivals that take place: The more formal Festival On, which features plays and performances in the Popes’ Palace and the more bohemian Festival Off, which is composed mostly of undiscovered plays and street performances. Many of the performances take place in courtyards, churches, theatres, and other public venues, making great use of the town’s many historical buildings.

Even if you miss the festival, Avignon is always a good place to visit for cultural and artsy activities any time of the year as there are always operas, symphonies, chamber music, theatre and ballet recitals to keep you well entertained. Avignon also has about 20 cinemas that show art house films as well as current movies.

Biot in the Riviera The Riviera is synonymous with beautiful people sunning themselves in beautiful beaches before retiring to their magnificent

A French Primer More places to see as you explore France Normandy The Place du Vieux Marché was where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on 30 May 1431—a large cross marks the spot

j

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Notre-Dame Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture

j St-Maclou quarter

or the antiques quarter has the highest concentration of antique shops in France

homes to dress up for a night out in the town riding their expensive cars. But more than that, it’s the little villages that add to its allure. Take Biot, a little picturesque medieval village perched on a hill, some four kilometres from the Mediterranean beaches. The village is a hub for artists and art’s various incarnations—as seen in architecture, sculptures, ceramics, paintings and food—are evident everywhere you turn. In particular, Biot is renowned for pottery and glassworks and here is where the avid shopper will head to, to stock up on these handmade artifacts. I suggest you visit the workshops and watch the glass blowers and potters at work, after which, you can purchase their goods at a reasonable price.

Beyond Paris While Paris may be the light that lures tourists to France, these quaint villages offer travellers a more unique experience.

From the grand architecture of Normandy to the food and wine of Burgundy, from the natural wonders of Brittany to the culture in Provence and shopping in the French Riviera, these offbeat and charming places nourish body, mind, and spirit. And you can’t ask for any more than that.

By sHARMILA MELISSA YOGALINGAM

j The Bayeaux Tapestry,

a 70m long, 11th century tapestry, illustrating the exploits of William and Harold, pretenders to the throne. It has images of mythical creatures, Vikings, and Norman and Saxon cavalries.

Burgundy Go on a wine tour, the perfect way to appreciate Burgundy’s appellations. Take the Route des Grand Crus, a 30-kilometre drive south from Dijon through the heart of Burgundy’s wine region, the Cote d’Or. On the route are private vineyards

in small villages, each with vintners offering tasting salons.

The northern end of the Grand Crus road is devoted to red wines—Burgundy and Pinot Noir while the south shifts to Chardonnay. Price for the tour is €10 but only €6 with a leaflet can be collected at the tourism office in the village.

Brittany Brittany has a rich archeological heritage. Visit the villages of Carnac, Locmariaquer, and Barnenez to see huge menhirs (upright standing stones), sometimes singly or in groups.

Aside from these megaliths, Brittany has also over 4,000 churches and chateaus.

Avignon in Provence Even though spring and summer are the best times to visit, you can also time your visit on Nov 1-March 31 to take advantage of Bon Weekend à Avignon (Enjoy a Weekend at Avignon) offer, in which some 20 hotels in all categories offer two nights for the price of one subject to booking conditions. For more info, www.avignon-tourisme.com.

This year, the 63rd Festival d’Avignon happens on July 7-29. For more information on the programme, go to www. festival-avignon.com Biot This little town in between Nice and Cannes is known for its glassworks. The best place to see glass blowers is at Verreries de Biot, 5 chemin des Combes (tel. 04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot. com), and for potters at work, head to La Poterie Provençale, 1689 rte. de la Mer (tel. 04 93 65 63 30).

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destination‡sonoma TEXT BY MING E. WONG | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MING E. WONG, ROSSO & BIANCO, THE WINE ROAD AND SONOMA COUNTY TOURISM BUREAU

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down In The

valley

Great wine, picturesque vineyards, quaint towns…

Add a famous Hollywood director who’s also a wine-maker and what do you have? An adventure that can only happen in California’s wine country, says Ming E. Wong

MAIN PAGE, FROM LEFT: Bottoms up; Rosso & Bianco; Hot air ballooning over the vineyards

JUST OFF HISTORIC HIGHWAY 101 north of San Francisco in Sonoma Valley, Geyser ville is a small, bucolic town, characterised by vineyards glistening in the sun, tree-lined streets and houses with bicycles strewn in the front yard. It’s a sleepy sort of place with not much happening on a quiet weekday afternoon, even in good weather, yet when we pulled up the gravel at Rosso & Bianco, the car park was full and we heard the murmur of voices. We rounded a corner into a courtyard and saw a group of people being shown around the premises, even though there was extensive renovation going on and there couldn’t have been much to see. But this being California, any

venue connected to a Hollywood celebrity was understandably a tourist magnet.

The celebrity in this case is Francis Ford Coppola, more commonly known to the rest of the world as the director of Apocalypse Now and The Godfather trilogy, rated by many film buffs as being among the top three American movies of all times. But in California, Coppola has also made a name for himself as a gourmet and wine-maker.

His winery in Rutherford in nearby Napa Valley is famous as a flashy upmarket setup complete with a movie museum.

WINE COUNTRY LIFE Rosso & Bianco (meaning red and white),

which the director acquired in 2006, is the former Chateau Souverain, a vineyard and winery that Coppola is converting into a family excursion venue. With playgrounds, water features, a new restaurant, and even a performing stage to come, the winery should prove to be an even stronger draw to the area.

On Friday evenings, there is a farmers’ market where local purveyors offer organic produce, toffee, jam, cheeses, and soap.

Sometimes, there is live music as well. In the works is a Rosso & Bianco movie contest as well as special harvest tours. In spite of the renovations, Rosso & Bianco was a nice stopover—a verdant spot overlooking

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gently sloping hills covered with vines.

The wine-tasting room is airy but you can also sit outdoors on the terrace ringed by wooden oaks. The café was closed while we were there, but the kitchen served up some excellent snacks and pizzas.

Inside the large tasting room, which felt somewhat like a loft, friendly and good humoured staff host wine-tasting in front of shelves full of not just bottles of wine, but also bottles of vinegar, oil, preserves and cookbooks, testifying to the family preoccupation with food. Coppola’s father and grandfather, Italian immigrants, used to make wine in their apartment in New York, his mother published a cookbook, and wine and food pairings have always been a family tradition.

cans. The wines span a healthy price range and while some are only available at Rosso & Bianco, others can be found in some Californian supermarkets.

Besides the wine and gourmet food items, visitors can also pick up wine accessories,

T-shirts and DVDs of Coppola productions.

I gazed at the five golden figures sitting on the on the top shelf and remarked that those had to be copies of Coppola’s Oscars.

“No, ma’am, these are the real McCoy, the very Oscars that he won for directing, producing, and scriptwriting The Godfather and Patton,” I was informed. So I gazed a little longer and more intensely—after all, this was probably my only chance to come within touching distance of a genuine Hollywood Oscar and here were five of them! To complete my starstruck groupie experience, I bought a black T-shirt with Coppola’s name trailing up the front.

STAR VINTAGE Wine-tastings in California cost US$10-25 and what you get is often based on what you are willing to spend. At Rosso & Bianco, you can get your selection of wine to taste served with finger food such as salami, olives, and cheese. You can also order pizzas, crispy at the edge, yielding and yummy as you bite into fresh vegetables buried under melting cheese.

There are five brands at Coppola’s— Rosso & Bianco, Director’s Cut, Diamond Collection, FC Reserve, and Sofia, with each brand encompassing several labels of a particular grape or combinations of grapes. The Diamond Collection wines are easy drinking, well-balanced wines, and in spite of the name, are moderately priced. We particularly enjoyed the Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon which was perfect with the pizza we had al fresco, overlooking the vineyard.

The Director’s Cut, an all Sonoma range, was especially crafted to celebrate the purchase of the new winery. The Reserve range shows more complexity, but deserves a year of cellaring and is at the moment still a bit tannic. The Sofias are light, sparkling wines that were created in honour of Coppola’s daughter, also a director. They come in shapely pink bottles or effervescent-looking

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In The Neighbourhood Sonoma Valley is a worthy destination, especially for those who appreciate food and wine.

Some places to see in the area: GEYSERVILLE Rosso & Bianco 300 Via Archimedes, formerly Souverain Road; 1-877RossoBianco; Take the Independence Lane exit from Highway 101. Go west. www.rosso&bianco.com

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Santi Taverna A friendly Italian restaurant that hosts a supper club with themes and matching wines.

21047 Geyserville Avenue; tel 707-857-1790; www.tavernasanti.com

HEALDSBURG Twenty minutes down the road, picturesque Healdsburg is a small town with a lovely park fringed by excellent cafes, restaurants, shops, and winetasting centres. To get there: Follow general directions from San Francisco to Healdsburg, then follow Highway 101 to the Central Healdsburg exit. www.healdsburg.org

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Copperfield’s Books A fine bookshop that sells marked down quality hardcovers 104 Matheson St; tel 707-4339270. www.copperfields. booksense.com

By MING E. WONG

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Flying Goat Café Serves a mean coffee and baked goods. 324 Center Street. www.flyinggoatcoffee.com

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Lime Stone Sells home furnishings and accessories. Great for gifts and souvenirs. 315 Healdsburg Avenue; tel: 707 433-3080; www.limestonehealdsburg.com

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Oakville Grocery and Co. Their sauces, dressings, rubs, and mixed spices make excellent souvenirs. 124 Matheson Street; tel 707-433-3200; www.oakvillegrocery.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, THIS PAGE: Grapes; A vineyard; Mustard trees in between grape vines; Table full of wine; Artist in Sonoma Valley; A colorful bench in Healdsburg

FROM TOP, PREVIOUS PAGE: Wine tasting; Wine al fresco

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sojournďƒ pai in the sky

Text by Desiree foo | Photography By eddie chan

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PAI IN THE SKY Desiree Foo gives us a backpacker’s guide to Thailand’s little secret

More known among the farangs (Thai for foreigners), the town of Pai, a few hours north of Bangkok, gets many Westerners almost year-round. The town has a population of less than 3,000 and yet it’s a wonder how it has retained its rustic simplicity while evolving to accommodate the tastes of visitors who have stumbled upon this unpolished gem.

Tucked away in Thailand’s mountainous northern region, this little town lies near the Myanmar border and is situated next to the pretty Pai River. Your journey begins in Chiang Mai, one hour north of Bangkok by plane, where you can either take a bus or a mini-van to Pai. Alternatively, the more adventurous traveller may take a three-day drive along the Mae Hong Son Loop, passing

by Pai along the way, before heading back down to the Doi Inthanon National Park.

Sights along the way include the Huay Nam Dang National Park, mineral caves, and also numerous captivating waterfalls.

A must-visit is the Sappong caves, reputed to be one of the biggest cave systems in the world, with its enormous stalagmites and stalactites.

Why Pai?

Rafting is one of the ways to discover Pai

Visitors who choose to make a pit stop at Pai almost always extend their stay beyond the overnighter. With no expensive resorts to taint the simplicity of the place, the town’s bars and coffeehouses are very affordable. For the best espresso martini and grandmother’s old-fashioned carrot cake, drop in on Edible Jazz Cafe, before moving on to Bamboo Bar for entertainment that goes on till the wee hours of the morning.

If you’re hungry, there are roadside stalls that sell cheap delicious food—a bowl of pad thai noodles costs 20 baht, perfect for the budget traveller’s pocket. But for those who are not adventurous, try the town’s restaurants. Angie’s Kitchen located on the main road serves affordable and scrumptious local food. The set menu is made from fresh ingredients, has big portions, and best of all, only costs 60 baht.

In a country that seems to have made an industry of being laid-back, Pai is the quintessential place to relax and while the day away. The serene mountains, waterfalls, www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |

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A SLICE OF

PAI

Want to take a break from the rest of the mad world?

Head to Pai. Here, more tips and travel info

Buses or mini-vans? If you can afford it, rent a taxi or a mini-van in Chiang Mai for 1,500-2,000 baht/one way, which is more convenient than suffering in an overcrowded bus or mini-van. If you opt for pubic transportation, buses from Chiang Mai charge 80 baht/person, while mini-vans charge 150-160 baht/person.

Motorbike rentals in Chiang Mai start as low as 80 baht/day for a Honda

Dream 100cc. Other classes of motorbikes like the Phantom 200cc and the Yamaha Mio automatic will have different rates. The most expensive to rent is the Honda CB1000 for 1,200 baht per day.

Accomodation With an abundance of retreats and guesthouses, finding a place to stay that fits your lifestyle is only limited by your budget and what you plan to do.

We recommend:

Golden Hut Guest House, which charges 100 baht/day for a double with a common bathroom, and 250 baht for a double with attached bathroom and river view. The hotel is furnished simply, but have the basic necessities. For an additional fee, guests can have heated water! Food served is usually organic and farmed in the guesthouse’s backyard.

Golden Hut Guest House, 107 / Moo 3

One of Pai’s locals mugs for the camera

and forests that surround the town are the perfect backdrop for yoga practitioners and meditation-seekers who come to the town for the peace and quiet.

What’s a perfect Pai day like? It begins with waking up to the chirping of birds, followed by a leisurely stroll in town in search of breakfast (if you haven’t broken your fast in your guesthouse). After that, pick a quiet spot for meditation or yoga. Come evening, join one of the many spontaneous groups that gather around a fire and sing songs—anything from folk to contemporary hits—till the moon is high and the stars come out in full force.

Sundowners INSET: A local orchidarium; Wednesday market, where you can find anything

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Pai comes alive once a week during its Wednesday market when merchants from Chiang Mai come to town to sell their wares.

And what wares! Here, you will find the strangest assortment of products—from kitchen utensils at incredibly cheap prices that match their quality and durability, feather dusters, pliers that have come apart and are sold at half the price, durable Tupperware products. For sheer novelty, you can spend a whole afternoon just looking through the items on sale. Take a chance and load up on whatever you may need for the rest of your stay. Just keep an eye out for manufacturing defects as the products certainly do not come with a warranty!

One thing that you can do in Pai is rent a bike for a nominal fee and explore the

surrounding areas. Just seven kilometres from the centre of town is a hot spring.

Surrounded as it is by lush jungle cover, coming upon it for the first time, under a haze of hot water vapour, feels like discovering a secret. The best time to go would be in the early part of the morning, before the day’s humidity has set in, when the tranquillity of the setting swoops in on the unsuspecting individual, inviting him to plunge into the hot pool.

You can also choose to go on foot to the spring—and hitch a ride on an elephant from one of the elephant camps in the area. For those who want an elephant ride—and who doesn’t?—you can compare and haggle for prices. Inside, catch a show or buy art pieces that are ‘trunk-drawn’ by these wonderful creatures. However, be prepared to shell out anything from 800-1,500 baht for a painting. Along with the usual package of elephant rides, these camps also offer boat rafting and buffalo cart rides (around 1,500 baht per person).

But to be in Thailand is to know how to haggle, so bring your toughest bargaining

skills as these vendors will not hesitate to part you with your cash. My tip: It may turn out cheaper to book the rides yourself, instead of relying on your hotel. I managed to get the rides at a much lower price of 700 baht per person when I bargained with the attendants at the ticketing booth.

Easygoing and languid Pai may be, it has its fair share of adrenaline-pumping action.

The latter half of the year is white-water rafting season and it’s a sport that’s becoming popular with visitors craving adventure.

It’s best done during July-January, during monsoon season, since you need rough waters for this sport. For those not looking for that much action, try tubing. Floating down the river is an experience that will soothe the most frazzled nerves.

Music fans have also been known to congregate in this town. For so small a place, Pai holds several music festivals a year, mostly aimed at young backpackers. In recent years, there have been annually held events celebrating reggae and ska music, and through word of mouth, visitors from all over the world actually flock to these

events. The festivals are not high profile, of course. The sound system usually leaves room for improvement but the drinks are strong and the vibe is worth it. These events are like the present-day equivalent of all those concerts in the 60s. Channel your inner flower child and be one with the free spirits who groove to the music. Party till the morning and watch the sun come up with your newfound friends.

Back to reality, stress-free When your body feels sufficiently rejuvenated, and you’re ready to get back to the real world, hop back on to the Mae Hong Soon trail.

Whether you like it or not, this passage is not going to be a smooth, with trails that splice through uneven and muddy terrain. A bullock cart, a motorcycle, an old beat-up truck all serve one purpose, and that is to deliver you back to the reality we call home. But hopefully, the secret that is Pai remains contained, if not by speech then by memory, and whenever you need a reminder to chill out after a day’s stress, just look back at your time in this wonderful place and find peace and laughter.

HILTON PHUKET ARCADIA

sojournshoppingmeccas photography by Ruth Tan, Hong Kong Tourism Board, Malaysia Tourism Board, Tourism Authority Of Thailand, Singapore Tourism Board

The Queens Of

Retail Whether it’s bargain hunting or designer brands, nothing beats Asia’s shopping meccas— Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore— if you’re looking to drop some coin, says Ruth Tan

Despite the pervading economic gloom, people still shop when they travel—as a way to remember the place by, maybe, or simply because it’s fun. And while the dollars don’t stretch as far these days, travellers will still find ways of getting more bang for their buck. After all, who can resist the thrill of unearthing oneof-a-kind finds or buying designer items at rock-bottom prices? For serious retail therapy, there can be no better place in Asia than Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur.

Hong Kong Hong Kong is a shopaholic’s dream come true. From glitzy malls to open-air street markets lined with hawkers, the shopping options are mind-boggling.

For convenience and comfort, head to popular malls such as the Landmark, Pacific Place, Times Square, IFC Mall, Harbour City, and Festival Walk. A newcomer in the retail scene is Elements on West Kowloon, where luxury brands and high street labels like H&M and Zara vie for your shopping dollars. Incidentally, the H&M flagship store is located in Central with an upcoming outlet soon in Silvercord, Tsimshatsui.

For those short on time, Harbour City in Tsimshatsui is a good bet. The spacious mall offers every haute brand you can name as well as cosmetics, electronics, sports equipment, toys and everything else in between. Huge stand-alone stores

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by Gucci, Chanel, Ferragamo, Prada, Armani and the largest Louis Vuitton store in Asia are found here—as are multibrand stores Lane Crawford and Joyce Boutique.

Designer fashion for less can be unearthed in Extravaganza Outlet and I.T. Sales Shop at Silvercord just across. The latter offers up to 80% off on past season offerings. For the ultimate outlet scoop, plan a trip to Citygate Outlet Mall at Tung Chung where year-round bargains from Lanvin, Vivienne Tam, Burberry, Calvin Klein, and the like are on offer.

Trendsetting fashionistas will not be disappointed in Causeway Bay and Granville Road, Tsimshatsui. A perennial favourite, Causeway Bay’s tight clusters of hip and

trendy shops feature alternative labels and hip local designers. Island Beverly, Laforet and Time Plus in particular, sell trendy clothes and accessories. Also check out the new Delay No Mall by G.O.D for obscure brands like Black Needle, Justin Davis and L.A.M.B. For something other than the mainstream fare on Nathan Road, go to Granville Road for a treasure trove of local designs and heavily discounted brand name garments in numerous export outlets. The nondescript Rise Shopping Arcade at Granville Circuit brims with trendy local designs and imported fashion similar to Island Beverley.

Pop by Mongkok for youth fashion, electronics, and the latest toys and games.

MAIN PHOTO: Street of hong Kong TOP: mongkok and World Trade Centre

Bangkok Be sure to stock up at the new Sephora, a cosmetic superstore. For discounted beauty products and perfumes, there is always the ubiquitous Sasa.

Street markets in Hong Kong are always full of excitement and colour. And there are quite a few to explore such as Stanley Market, Temple Street Night Market, Ladies Market, and Jade Market. At Stanley Market, a picturesque seaside bazaar, vendors peddle the usual array of Chinese artwork, silk collectibles, bric-a-bracs, as well as larger-sized clothing. Hong Kong’s most well-known street market, Ladies’ Market sells knockoffs, cheap clothing, and local curios. Come ready to haggle and have fun.

For computer products and games the most popular establishments are Wanchai Computer Centre, Windsor House in Causeway Bay, Mongkok Computer Centre, and Golden Computer Arcade and Shopping Centre in Sham Shui Po.

For an experience like no other, check out Chatuchak weekend market with its staggering 15,000 stalls. Chatuchak offers dedicated shoppers almost everything— books, artifacts, clothes, ceramics, antiques, shoes, jewellery, live animals, and more—all at amazing prices! If the go-go bars and chaos of Patpong Night Market is not your style, head to Suan Lum Night Bazaar instead. This bazaar is a feasible alternative to Chatuchak, if you missed the weekends.

Mahboonkrong Shopping Centre (MBK) is another place where you can find good bargains for almost everything. For more bargains galore, head to the Pratunam Market, a huge streetside complex choca-bloc with shoes, handbags, jeans, and all manner of knockoffs. A relatively new shopping centre in the area is the Platinum Fashion Mall, a wholesale venue selling a similar range of items as Pratunam, except

Bangkok shopping havens— from night markets to Posh malls

in air-conditioned comfort.

Techno-geeks and gadget fiends will find gratification in Pantip Plaza nearby, where all kinds of computer and electronic paraphernalia can be found.

Moving upscale, head to the newly revamped Central World Plaza. The city’s biggest and trendiest mall warrants a few hours of your time. The edgy Zen as well as a raft of leading local designers and upmarket brands make for a different shopping experience.

Avid mall trawlers continue their expedition at The Emporium, Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery, Siam Centre, Siam Paragon, Gaysorn Plaza and Amarin Plaza.

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The hip and trendy flock to Siam Square to satisfy their inner style divas.

Numerous tiny boutiques line the interconnected streets here, selling up-tothe-minute clothes, shoes and accessories.

The colourful two-floor boutique It’s Happened to be a Closet has gone beyond street cred in recent years so do check out its delightful assortment of funky fashions and accessories.

For fine Thai handicrafts, a good place to start is Narayana Phand next to Gaysorn Plaza. This government-owned shop specialises in Thai crafts from all over the country. You can also find good quality handicrafts in OTOP outlets at Chatuchak and Pratunam. Those on a lookout for contemporary furniture and furnishings will find Siam Discovery has the best selections. Of course no shopping spree to Bangkok would be complete without a visit to the popular Jim Thompson outlet on Suriwongse Road for his signature silk motifs.

Shopping in Chinatown

Singapore Compared to Hong Kong and Bangkok, shopping in Singapore is a relatively tame and unhurried affair. Though there are no frenetic street markets, the city’s malls more than make up for the lack by their superlative comfort, convenience and diversity.

Mall shopping defines the Singapore experience. With over 250 malls in the city, you are never out of avenues to shop.

The famous Orchard Road is a good place to kickstart your shopping spree. Sashay your way through magnificent malls conveniently lined up one after the other,

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from Wheelock Place to Plaza Singapura.

A grand dame on this stretch is Tangs department store, a posh lifestyle shop well stocked with international brands and exclusive merchandise.

Ngee Ann City is also worthy of a stopover. Flagship tenant, Japanese department store Takashimaya sprawls in six floors from Basement 2 to Level 4, and offers ever ything from beauty products, fashion, to gourmet foods. Top brands like Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci as well as popular fashion labels such as Guess, British India, and Country Road are housed in this expansive complex. Don’t forget to drop by Books Kinokuniya, the largest bookstore in Southeast Asia.

Outside the Orchard Road enclave, the Marina Bay area has a cluster of interlinked malls deserving of mention—Raffles City Complex, the Marina Square Shopping Mall and Suntec City Mall. VivoCity at the Harbourfront is the new kid on the block in the mall scene. It is now the city’s largest retail, entertainment, and lifestyle destination boasting more than 300 shops in a million square feet of space.

Techno-geeks will do no better than the Funan IT Mall, a short walk away from Raffles City. Another place to get computer electronics and audio-visual equipment is Sim Lim Square, a less organised version of Funan but with more leeway for negotiation.

From Sim Lim Square, head to Bugis Street. Its sheltered walkways house over 600 stalls of trendy streetwear and eclectic knick-knacks and let you make a smooth transition from mall to bazaar browsing.

For street shopping, the Arab Street area is a good place to start. Check out handwoven baskets, rattan wares, batik shirts, sarongs, and gorgeous textile. Hip boutiques with one-of-the-kind design are also starting to sprout in nearby Haji Lane and adjacent streets. Other ethnic shopping sites include Little India and Chinatown. In Little India be dazzled by glittering Indian gold jewellery, brassware and yards of brightly hued fabric. Score serious bargains in Mustafa Centre, a 24hour department store offering everything at lower prices than you would find elsewhere. For serendipity, wander into the maze of shop houses along the side streets and alleyways in Chinatown. You never know what you might find.

Kuala Lumpur As a premier shopping destination worth its weight, Kuala Lumpur has an eclectic spectrum of retail opportunities, from impressive malls to dynamic street bazaars.

The city has fabulous malls aplenty.

Many of the best are located on Jalan Bukit Bintang such as Lot 10, StarHill, KL Plaza, Sungei Wang Plaza, and Bukit Bintang Plaza. The latest addition is the grandiose Pavillion Kuala Lumpur with 450 retail shops showcasing the latest in fashion, food, and leisure. Further down the road, Low Yat Plaza offers techies every computer hardware and software at rock-bottom prices.

Plan for a day of swank shopping and people-watching in the upscale cafes of Suria Shopping Complex at the world’s tallest twin towers KLCC. The Melium Outlet (MO), 10-minute drive from KLCC, is where fashion devotees get their designer fix for a song. It’s a designer warehouse but you don’t have to rummage through piles of clothes as everything is neatly stacked in a luxurious environment.

Central Market and Chinatown’s Petaling Street are where you pick up local crafts such as batik and songket (brocade-like fabric). For more bazaarshopping, explore Little India at Jalan Masjid India and be tempted by brightly hued saris and Bollywood-inspired Indian dresses.

Daytrips

Staying for only 24 hours?

Some tips to point you in the right direction

If it’s pewter you’re after, visit Royal Selangor Visitor Centre for the full and latest range of pewter products available.

While you’re here, learn about the science and history of pewter.

The suburb of Bangsar is fast becoming a chic stop for fashionistas. Hip boutiques abound and the newly opened Bangsar Village II boasts high-end names like Ted Baker, Warehouse, Principles, Massimo Dutti, Trucco, and Coast.

For overseas visitors, night bazaar or pasar malam is a novel way to shop. You can find many night markets in different places throughout the week. Open from afternoon till late evening, these open-air markets feature a bewildering variety of local produce, foodstuff, and clothing.

Despite the low prices, bargaining is a common practice.

(photos, this page) kuala lumpur has the best of both worlds— interesting bazaars and sprawling malls

Hong Kong Where to Shop Harbour City. Get your retail fix right in the hub of Tsimshatsui; Nathan Road is just a short walk away.

3-27 Canton Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong Where to Eat Tao Hueng Super 88.

Fresh, made-toorder dim sum the way locals have it.

Favourite yum char hangout with very reasonable prices.

Shop B, 3/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Road, Tsimshatsui; tel 852 2375 9128 Where to Sleep Marco Polo Prince Hotel. Fantastic location within Harbour City translates to more shopping tim. Easy access to Star Ferry and MTR. 23 Canton Road, Harbour City, Tsimshatsui. www. marcopolohotels.com

offerings for some urban funk in an unbeatable location at the Siam Square area.

865 Rama 1 Road, Wang Mai, Patumwan, Bangkok 10330. www.siamatsiam.com

Bangkok Where to Shop Chatuchak Weekend Market. Thailand’s largest market for bargains galore and everything else makes for an exhilarating shopping experience.

1695 Phaholyothin Road, Chatuchack, Bangkok Where to Eat Baan Khanitha Restaurant.

Multi-award winning Thai restaurant set in a grand, converted Thai house. 69 South Sathorn Rd, Bangkok 10120; tel (66) 0 2675 4200 1 Where to Sleep Siam@Siam Design Hotel and Spa. Eschew the usual hotel

Kuala Lumpur Where to Shop Pavillion Mall. The newest mall in town. Good mix of mid- to high-end stores for your shopping fix. 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur 55100, Malaysia Where to Eat Restoran Wong Ah Wah. To-die-for grilled chicken wings plus plenty of seafood dishes.

Located just off Bukit Bintang. 1, Jalan Alor, Kuala Lumpur; tel (603) 2144 2463/2148 3413 Where to Sleep JW Marriott Hotel. In the midst of Bukit Bintang shopping precinct, you can start shopping straight away. 183, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur 55100. www.marriott.com

Singapore Where to Shop Ngee Ann City. A landmark shopping haven right in the thick of things to fulfil your every shopping desire. 391 Orchard Road Singapore 238873 Where to Eat Old Airport Road Food Centre. The best and authentic local eats are in this popular hawker centre. Chow down with the locals. 51 Old Airport Road Where to Sleep Meritus Mandarin Hotel Singapore. In the epicentre of fashionable Orchard Road, every shopping must-visit is an easy walk.

33 Orchard Road. www.meritus-hotels.com

Sale Seasons Mark Your Calendar: Hong Kong Sales are in summer (June–Aug) and winter (Dec–Feb).

Bangkok Thailand Grand Sale, June 1-Aug 31, 2009.

Singapore The Great Singapore Sale, May 29-July 26, 2009.

Malaysia Mega Sales Carnival, June 1–Sept 30, 2009.

Shopping Tips 1. For computer and electronic goods, make sure your purchase comes with an international warranty, and voltages are compatible with your home country.

2. Prices in malls, department stores, and large retailers are fixed, although smaller shopping centres may give you the wholesale price if you buy in bulk.

3. Hone your haggling skills—you’ll need them especially in street markets. Experts advise you start with a base of 1/3 of the original price and work you way up.

Others say slash the price to a fourth of the original—but this is not for amateurs.

4. Bring a light foldable tote to keep your purchases in and to minimise the use of plastic bags.

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lifestyle luxevacation

by Terrie V. Gutierrez | Photography By KHaled NaGy (www.adrereamellal.net)

Luxe

withaCONSCIENCE

Today’s version of a luxurious vacation is tempered with the need to either give back to the community or go the ecotourism route. It’s a way to indulge without the guilt

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These days, the idea of spending vast amounts of money on a luxurious vacation seems sacrilegious, somehow—the situation made worse by the fact that due to the crisis, many workers have been laid off and the ones still lucky to have a job are rethinking their spending habits.

But there are ways of indulging while assuaging your conscience—never mind if you get looks from friends about spending so much in hard times. After all, money spent means that it’s going around. You can actually rationalise the vacation by saying that it helps keep the economy afloat. But if that doesn’t work, there are ways of making your vacation more meaningful, even if you’re staying at a luxurious hotel, being waited on hand and foot.

Voluntourism

environmental group. “I saved up to go on this holiday, but I also wanted to help out.

This was a way to do both.”

“It’s about making a difference, even if you’re staying at a luxury hotel,” says a tour guide from Abercrombie&Kent who declined to be named. The concept is not exactly new.

For instance, Lapa Rios, an ecolodge in Costa Rica, has been offering travellers the chance to volunteer for almost a decade.

But the trend really started to hit big in the past few years with big high-end resorts coming into the picture. It stands to reason—they have a stake in the results of these volunteer efforts. Giving back to the community helps the resorts, whether in luring back more tourists or by improving the areas surrounding the property. It’s a good-neighbour policy on a much-larger scale.

There is a growing number of establishments (resorts and tour operators) that offer trips that give back so the experience is becoming more and more accessible.

Whereas before, you’d have to organise your own trips via local nongovernment organisations, this time, it’s the hotels and tour operators that can offer you a variety of programmes. Some examples of voluntourism would be stints in building houses with an organisation like Hands on New Orleans, for instance. Thailand also has four-week HIV awareness programs while tour operators in Kenya have programs that help orphaned children.

More popular among Westerners who want to see the world but still contribute in a meaningful way, voluntourism is the modern equivalent of the Peace Corps. How it works is simple: You go on a vacation, but instead of spending most of your time indulging, you spend part of it helping out the local community—either through teaching, environmental work, or other projects that contribute to the community.

“It’s not about depriving myself,” says Anita Olivier, a spa owner who had recently gone on a vacation in Costa Rica with an

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The new trend in high-end hotels and resorts is to incorporate socially responsible programmes into their hospitality efforts. previous page and this page: Adrère Amellal’s efforts even extend to their interiors, where they use minimal electricity and local materials

“You have to know what your goals are, though,” says Anita. “The last thing you’d want to happen is to be overwhelmed by the volunteerism part that you end up not enjoying your break.” And before you sign up, consider the following: What are you hoping to achieve with your efforts?

What are the effects of your efforts on the community? The second question is even more important since there are less reputable companies that claim to practice responsible travel but do not.

Stay in hotels that have concrete programmes…

If voluntourism is too demanding for you, there are luxurious hotels and resorts who can do the giving for you. Many highend hotels these days have philanthropic programs that give back to the community or the environment. By choosing to stay in one or donating to their programmes, you are in effect helping out—even if you spent most of your time lounging by the hotel pool. The key really is choosing what kind of programme you want to participate in. For instance, hotel initiatives can be as modest as training local youths in the community

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for jobs or funding local handicraft projects to something as momentous as saving the rainforests. Marriott, for instance has Green Golf Initiatives, wherein they declare parts of their properties as ecological sanctuaries.

…or walk the talk Some companies do it the other way around: They build hotels and resorts to help the community. Environmental Quality International (EQI), which owns and operates Adrère Amellal in the Siwa Oasis in Egypt is one such example. A private firm established in 1981, it began privately investing in Siwa through a series of community-based initiatives. As a cultural and ecological site, Siwa Oasis, located near the Libyan border of Egypt, needed to be preserved. Not only were there archeological sites in the area, there were also fantastic rock formations.

The relative seclusion of the community also meant that their cultural heritage has been preserved. Out of this came the Siwa Sustainable Development Initiative, which addresses economic, cultural, and environmental challenges in the region.

One way for the group to address these issues was through Adrère Amellal.

A high-end ecolodge overlooking Lake Siwa, Adrère Amellal is composed of restored traditional Siwan houses using the same building styles and techniques that have been used in the oasis for centuries.

Ceilings are made of palm beams, while doors, windows and fixures are made of olive wood from annual tree trimmings.

Furnishings are simple, yet of the highest quality, using local designs and materials.

The lodge has contemporary plumbing, true, but wastewater is first settled in self-contained sedimentation tanks, treated and is allowed to flow to a sealed wetland where papyrus plants are grown to complete the biodegration and waste reduction process. Food is organically grown and predominantly local.

Going up this level of commitment is not cheap—which is why most, if not all, of the ecolodge’s visitors are travellers who are looking for unique, high quality, environmentally and socially conscious accommodations. Since it opened, Adrère Amellal has been getting a lot of awards for its efforts. Staying in places like these is one way of indulging yourself and helping out—a win-win situation.

traveltalk

“Damn, it’s good to be a guy,” remarked a female friend, after I told her I had just returned from a solo trip. Her comment pretty much sums up the fact that travelling solo is still the purview of males. Despite enlightened cultural and sexual mores, females travelling alone encounter a host of potential dangers—from dangerous no-go places to local prejudices against women on their own—that men are immune to.

But there is one kind of trouble that targets males: pimps and prostitutes.

On almost every solo trip I’ve made in Asia, the city’s sex purveyors approach me and I’m not even loitering in the red-light districts.

These characters home in on me, trying to convince me that it is more than my camera’s lens barrel that needs to be finger-shifted for the night.

Sure, I could let my hormones muddle my mind, and imagine myself to be some sort of Jude Law who’s irresistible to women. But it’s common sense that these ladies of the night don’t even care if I have a potbelly, they are just after the bulge in my pants—and I mean my wallet.

Yet, the extent to which these hustlers take to court my libido is, in retrospect, wickedly funny. The encounters may be unsavoury, but they form another tile in my expanding mosaic of travel experiences. Here are a few tricks that I’ve encountered so far: The Photo Pitch I’ve experienced this twice in Ho Chi Minh City and thrice in Shanghai, whose skin merchants seem to be everywhere.

After his repeated persuasions fail to arouse interest, so to speak, the pimp whips out a stack of photos and flashes these in your face. Each photo bears a scantily clad, or sometimes topless, lady, in a suggestive pose. As he sifts through the photos, he gives a quick commentary on the various “qualities” of each featured lady.

Some of the ladies look really voluptuous, but hey, they could have been cut from the pages of an adult magazine. I’ve never made a visual confirmation myself, so, caveat emptor to those who succumb to this pitch.

A rule of thumb: A smile, even a noncommittal one, can be mistaken for interest. While walking on The Bund one night, a man with cigarette breath came up to me and unleashed, in Mandarin, a long description of his hookers. Then, he did the Photo Pitch and told me about the many ways I could “do” each lady. I unwittingly smiled, not because I was sold, but because the man’s lines reminded me of Harvey Keitel’s pimp character in Taxi Driver. But Mr Cigarette Breath took my smile as encouragement and became more

by LIN WEIWEN

are you

Lonesome Tonight?

A male traveller recounts his unwitting misadventures in the skin trade

persistent. It was a good five minutes before he left me alone.

The Booby Trap In Phuket’s Patong Beach, I was taking photographs when a lady in a tight number (I think she was a she; I couldn’t tell) came out of nowhere, attached herself to my left arm, and insisted on taking me to her “special room” for a “special massage.” I resisted, and she proceeded to push her right breast onto my arm, saying that she’d give me something that one would do to a lollipop. I declined, but she clung on, hoping I’d relent to her Booby Trap. I shrugged her off and she retreated.

The Multilingual Approach In Shanghai (again!), I was taking a stroll in Nanjing Road, the city’s shopping belt, when a young lady approached me and asked in Mandarin if I was alone. I didn’t respond so she tried another tack, asking me for the time.

“Sorry. I don’t speak Mandarin,” I replied in English to discourage her.

“Ah… What time is it?” she asked, switching to English.

I threw her my Oscar-winning bewildered look and pretended to be a confused Japanese tourist. Game over, lady.

“Sumimasen, wakaranai! [Sorry, I don’t understand!]” I told her in Nihongo.

“Ah…Oni-San! Ima nanji desuka?” she replied, switching right along with me. (Big brother, what time is it now?)

I was stunned. I had to continue my Japanese masquerade now.

“Ima,” I said, looking at my watch, “shichijihan desu.” (It’s seven-thirty now.)

“Oni-San, sabishii desuka?” (Big brother, are you lonely?)

“Iie, sabishikunai.” (No, I’m not lonely.)

“Oni-San, isshou ni asobu yo! Yasui ne!” (Big brother, let’s go ‘play’! [I’m] cheap!) She linked her arm to mine, and smiled at me.

I shrugged her off, and sped into one of the shops for refuge.

“Oni-San! Doko iku?!” (Big brother, where are you going?!)

A friend advised, “Next time, take out your notepad and pen, and say you want to interview them for a story. Then, take out your camera and pretend to shoot them. They will run.” I hope so!

8 Have something to say? Send your vignettes or experiences to terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg

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lifestyle conversation Text by Justine Moss | Photography by Discovery Travel & Living

Every day is a new day to me, and I like making sure it’s filled with good laughs and cries. Of course you have your bad days, but there is always a session of yoga to zone me out,” Denise Keller says in a recent interview with Frequent Traveller.

The gregarious 26-year-old was discovered by a French photographer when she was only 13 and her career escalated when she won Ford Supermodel of the World Singapore back in 2000.

Since then, she’s been on an assortment of magazine covers as well as print and television campaigns worldwide. One of the most recognized faces on MTV today, the television presenter, host, and model has embraced and juggled all three and more in her 13-year career.

“I think if you love what you do for a living, anything motivates you and I love all my jobs equally, because at each stage of my career I feel like I had always

learnt something new about myself. I tried modelling at an early age and found it opened many doors for me—I loved backpacking with heels,” she explains, continuing, “Presenting and hosting taught me a lot about production and gave me something to challenge myself with.

I started my own boutique production house in Singapore two years ago and mainly focused on fashion shows and regional fashion platforms such as the Singapore Fashion Festival and Luxury Week Hong Kong. It was the most challenging nerve-wracking feeling being

a fashion reporter and an executive producer at the same time.”

Denise recently steered her television work into a different direction with a presenter’s role on Discovery Travel & Living’s Passage to Malaysia series, which explores Malaysia in several episodes to reveal what makes “Malaysia truly Asia.” It’s quite a departure from Denise’s regular MTV hosting duties, but an experience she relished.

“Well, for one, I’m out of the freezing studio and enjoying the sun! I love the outdoors, and love to run around checking

Backpacker in Heels Television presenter, host, and model Denise Keller gets covered in bat poo and is loving every minute of it. She tells us why

Admiring the stone carvings of Georgetown, Penang 60 |

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out new things,” she offers. “Passage to Malaysia is a show where I get to meet new people who show me their lives and tell me about the history of their hometowns and their cultural ties that link them to the early beginnings of Malaysia. It’s such a fascinating experience to go down memory lane with them and understand their cultural background. The best bit is that Malaysians always want you to try their food, because to them, food represents the mirror to their soul. Now that’s what I call a perk!”

The opportunity to host the series came at the right place at the right time.

“Being half-Chinese, they asked me about my family background and I told them that my grandmother was originally from Negeri Sembilan,” explains Denise, who is also half-German. “It all fell into place and it’s becoming more and more of a personal journey of Malaysia, if you ask me.”

Denise hosts two episodes of the series (the others are fronted by Jamie Aditya).

“Into The Wild” sees her travelling to East Malaysia, home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites and experiencing an actionpacked adventure through the heart of Borneo’s finest natural wonders, while in “Across the Seas” she sails from Langkawi down the Malacca Straits, through the Johor Straits to the South China Sea. Navigating a yacht in Langkawi was one of her favourite parts of the shoot as she has always wanted to learn how to sail.

“I had a mini-crash course in Langkawi, and boy, was it difficult to understand a completely different language—‘port!,’ ‘starboard!,’—I’m just glad I didn’t crash the sailing boat into one of the islands!

Ahoy, crash!” she laughs.

Another highlight and one of the more amusing incidents on the shoot was when she had to kayak into a bat cave, climb all the way to the top and abseil off the rocks into the Andaman Sea. “I looked like I was Lady MacGyver covered in bat poo.

The crew had a good laugh when I tried washing it off!”

While Denise would love to host other travel shows in the future, she also wouldn’t mind extending her portfolio to include acting. “I studied at the Lee Strasberg of Theatre and Film in New York for a short stint and it was probably the best thing I ever did for myself,” she reveals, adding, “I

FROM TOP: Denise attending an Indian Muslim wedding; In Georgetown, Penang; At the Seven Wells Waterfall, Langkawi

love reading plays as a hobby and to play a character on stage is like taking a break from yourself and stretching your spirit to another body. I would love to go into acting, but unfortunately I’ve very little time to spare right now. But if the right script and role came along, I would definitely love to try it professionally. Film is another avenue that intrigues me.”

When asked if she sees herself “in the biz” 13 years down the track, she answers candidly, “I don’t like thinking too far ahead but I do like having small plans against big dreams. Thirteen years may be bit of a stretch. I want to go back to

school and do some humanitarian work in the near future.”

Next up though, in addition to currently representing Longines and MasterCard and spearheading Diageo’s anti-drinking campaign, Denise is working on a couple of projects. “The one I’m most passionate about is joining The Climate Project in Asia-Pacific. It’s still in discussion and a work in progress.”

Passage to Malaysia is on Discovery Travel & Living.

Denise Keller hosts “Across the Seas,” airing on April 20 and “Into the Wild,” which airs on June 22.

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lifestyle conversation Text by Louay Habib | Photography by www.volvooceanrace.org

LIFEIN THE

E M E R EXT

Veteran skipper Bouwe Bekking gives us a glimpse of life aboard a racing yacht and why the Volvo Ocean Race is not a competition for sissies

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Telefonica in the lead

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The Volvo Ocean Race is, quite simply, the “Everest of sailing” with 11 competing teams sailing carbon-fibre yachts across 37,000 nautical miles of the globe’s most treacherous seas at unimaginable speeds. Competition is intense—it requires extreme physical endurance and a strong competitive spirit— because the race doesn’t stop. Competitors race day and night, for more than four weeks each leg, for over nine months. This year’s race began last October 4 in Alicante, Spain and goes to 11 ports around the world before finishing in St Petersburg, Russia. It is probably the most demanding team-sporting event in the world and takes place every three years.

Throughout the race the crews experience life at its most extreme. They live off freeze-dried food and can expect to lose over 10% of body mass on some legs. The sea provides their water; a desalination machine on board creates 50 litres of fresh water a day. They experience temperature variations from -5 to +40 degrees Celsius and will spend up to 30 days at sea with only one change of clothes. Sleep is a luxury and food is just fuel. They will survive gales and storms and try to avoid potential dangers such as pirates, icebergs, ocean debris and whales, lurking unseen in the ocean. It’s not a sport for the faint-hearted.

Bouwe Bekking, skipper of the Telefonica Blue team, is a veteran of the Volvo Ocean Race—this is his sixth outing! Originally from Deventer, Holland, Bekking now lives in Gilleleje, a small fishing town near Copenhagen with his wife Rikke and their daughter Laura. We catch up with the racer on the third leg of the race. The leg—Kochi, India to Singapore— was the closest finish in the race’s history so far, with the top three boats finishing within 20 minutes of each other after 2,500 gruelling miles. The lead changed hands many times but Bekking’s team made it to Singapore first to win the leg.

“That was very tough mentally,” says Bekking, who also manages the entire build programme of the Telefonica Blue and Telefonica Black teams. (The Spanish telco has two teams in this race.) “It’s a 24-7 business, you are not just working from eight in the morning until six at night, especially with three other boats within shouting distance, changing positions all the time. Especially the last 24 hours, nobody got any sleep. We needed every hand on deck because there were so many maneuvers going on. To win you have to make good decisions; nine times out of ten you might make the right decisions but implementing them at the crucial moment, being proactive, is the only way to win.”

Aside from the physical rigors, it’s tough living on board a Volvo 70 for most of the year, even if you’re hurtling across the oceans in one of the world’s fastest monohulls.

“I am a very active person and like to keep myself in top physical condition, so I don’t really have too many

luxuries at home, maybe a bath—something I don’t get on board at all! I could go three or four weeks without taking a bath, so I’d start smelling but my crewmates smell as bad as me so after a while you don’t notice it. When you get to the finish, people smell you and they think you’re living on a pig farm!”

A new design of boat, the Volvo Open 70 was introduced in the 2005-06 race. It has innovative design features like a canting keel and carbon fibre structure that make it capable of over 75km per hour without an engine! A massive sail area provides the power. At full speed, a Volvo Open 70 has enough sail area to cover two tennis courts and can produce 400 horsepower, the same as a Ferrari 360 Modena.

“There are no luxuries on board Telefonica Blue—absolutely zero. We have no personal items on board and virtually no change of clothing or normal food. Calling your family, that’s one of the nicest things; we have state-of-the-art communication systems from Thrane & Thrane and just to hear their voices is fantastic.”

The Volvo Ocean Race is highly competitive, where a split-second decision can mean pulling ahead of your competitors or floundering in the water as such, the team has to work as one synchronized entity.

“In the race, if you have done a good job and tried to do everything as well as possible then it is difficult to change anything,” Bekking explains. “If we make mistakes, my team is good enough to learn from them, unless the error has caused a disaster then, of course you have to speak about it. However, I believe that it is best not to put too much pressure on the team. This is a long race and it is important that the team stays relaxed and sees everything in perspective.”

Totally committed to winning the race, Bekking leads by example and works as hard as any member of the crew. “You’re either a natural leader or you’re not, if I wasn’t any good I wouldn’t be on the scene anymore and some things you can only learn by experience. There are 65 people employed on the Telefonica Team. It is vital to delegate and trust your people but sometimes I have to step in and remind them of the big picture; we need to make the boat go fast! At the end of the day, we always have to make compromises, as to what is important and accessing how an issue affects boat speed will decide how important it is.”

LIFE ON THE GO ssional extreme sportsman

Some health and travelling tips from a profe Get enough sleep— whenever you can. “When I get on the plane, I ask for a pillow and then I go to sleep. I sleep a lot on flights. When I wake up, I drink a lot of water, no alcohol, then go back to sleep again. I never socialize a lot on a plane, I’m always sleeping. If I do watch the in flight entertainment it would just be cartoons, just for a laugh. Sponge Bob Square Pants is one of my favourites!”

Exercise. “I always exercise whether I’m at home or during training. I hit the gym. For me, a workout is the best way to start the day. I do a lot of aerobic exercise— running between half an hour to an hour every day, some weight training.

In the afternoons, I run or bike, ideally two-and half-hours a day, in all. I also go for walks with the dog and family but at night I will often hit the sofa and channel-surf.”

Know the value of downtime. “When I am at home, I do enjoy going out with friends and my wife Rikke. We’d go out for a fantastic meal with fine wine. luxury would be to go out for a fantastic meal; starter, main course and a nice dessert accompanied by some fine wine.

I also love staying home with my wife and daughter, some candles on the fireplace, that sort of thing.

I also enjoy skiing with family and friends.”

Bouwe Bekking

PORTS OF CALL The competitors of the Volvo Ocean Race will stop at 11 port-cities, each with its own unique characteristics, cuisine, and local flavour ᮤ Alicante, Spain (11 Oct 2008) Alicante is famous with sun worshippers for having one of the best beaches along the Costa Blanca ᮤ Cape Town, South Africa (15 Nov 2008) is famous for its harbour and landmarks like Table Mountain and Cape Point ᮤ Kochi, India (13 Dec 2008) Known as the Gateway to Kerala, this city is the second most important city on India’s west coast ᮤ Singapore (18 January 2009) One of the three remaining true sovereign city-states in the world (the others are Monaco and Vatican City), Singapore is one of Asia’s most enjoyable and efficient cities ᮤ Qingdao, China (14 February) Almost a century old as a city, Qingdao looks surprisingly European, maybe because it was under German rule for more than decade and there are still many remnants of European architecture ᮤ Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (11 April) is famous for the Carnivale, Ipanema beach and a year-round party vibe

From Top: Race route middle and bottom: Making waves

ᮤ Boston, USA (16 May) Aside from its historical landmarks, Boston is also great for visual exploration because of the diversity of its buildings ᮤ Galway, Ireland (6 June) Known as the City of Tribes because in the 1400s, the leading 14 families of Ireland came from this area. Now, the city is a gateway to scenic Western Ireland ᮤ Gothenburg, Sweden (14 June) Sweden’s most major port and second largest city is getting an international reputation for innovative cuisine using local produce ᮤ Stockholm, Sweden (25 June) is over 700 years old and is spread out over 14 islands so there is always something to explore in this beautiful city ᮤ St. Petersburg, Russia (27 June) The imperial capital of Russia, this city resonates with the past For more info on the Volvo Ocean Race, go to www.volooceanrace.org

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LIFESTYLE

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FOR THE FREQUENT TRAVELLER The Hybrid PA Bag by Live Luggage has motorised wheels and an anti-gravity handle, a laptop case, and an overnight travel bag which can both be removed to suit the differing check-in requirements of the world’s airlines. The bag’s “antigravity” handle pivots away from the case and is heightadjustable for user-comfort, so no matter how tall or short you are, 85% of the weight of the luggage is balanced over the suitcase wheels.

Thanks to sensors in the anti-gravity handle and an intelligent torque control system, the Hybrid PA Bag will still feel equally light when going up inclines or

over bumpy ground, and can even keep up with you if you need to hurry. There are strong and reliable “pancake motors” built into each wheel.

The wheels are powered by a rechargeable 12V NiMH (nickel metal hydride) battery the same size as a standard laptop charger. Because the suitcase determines exactly how much power is needed in any situation, it is highly efficient, resulting in a range of up to 1.5 miles, and batteries are quickly recharged. Plus, if you are caught without power, you can simply disable the motors and—thanks to the anti-gravity handle—the case will still be much easier to move than traditional designs.

The Hybrid PA Bag is constructed on a lightweight,

super-strong frame with a tough, PC ABS body. The front is made of ultra-light, durable, padded nylon. The removable laptop and overnight bags are made of the same matching material. Included free with every case is Live Locator, Live Luggage’s unique, free luggage tracking service.

Every PA and Hybrid PA series suitcase is tagged with a unique, laser-etched serial number. If a case gets lost, a text message and e-mail will be sent to the owner with details of its location. There is even a built-in umbrella in the anti-gravity handle, which is secure when the case is in locked mode. Hybrid PA Bag by Live Luggage (£295), available at www.liveluggage. com starting April 17, 2009

For the detailoriented Advances in travel has changed the way we move and even the way we pack our bags to go on a trip. But one thing has not changed: rigours of travel notwithstanding, we still want a well-packed bag, with our clothes and possessions in pristine condition. Louis Vuitton, which has perfected the art of making well-made travelling bags for over a century, presents this capsule collection of men’s travel accessories for men.

Because being understated is key, pack your silk ties in a rectangular monogrammed tie case, designed to ensure your silk ties arrive crease-free and in perfect shape. It has a zipper running along three sides so the case can be opened flat for at-a-glance selection.

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For the man who likes taking along more than one watch, bring along a cylindrical watch case that can accommodate three timepieces, each in its own cushion. And depending on whether you need to be away for two days or two weeks, choose between a Monogram Eole 60 or a keepall—good for a weekend getaway—or a Monogram Pegase for longer trips. Louis Vuitton travel accessories collection, available at Louis Vuitton stores

For the weekend warrior First introduced in 1979, The North Face Base Camp Duffel celebrates its 30th birthday this year. This bag is now a classic—

and with good reason. Styled as a classic bomber expedition duffel, the bag is made out of Phthalate-free TPR fabric laminate designed for travel and hauling. The bag features alpine-cut shoulder straps, large d-zip with zipper flap, dual daisy chains, twin haul handles on ends, four compression straps, internal mesh pockets, ID pocket and locking zippers.

Its many features make it ideal for rough travel—backpacking across Europe and Asia, for instance—or extreme sports like mountain- or rock-climbing.

The best features of the bag?

Its thick fabric will keep your gear dry and it has a reinforced bottom so you can drag giant loads against rocky or gritty terrain. Base Camp Duffel comes in five sizes, S-XL, so there’s one to fit your need and lifestyle.

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LIFESTYLE

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WORK WARE One phone for work…

When it comes down to it, frequent travellers need no-fuss, dependable phones. Two phones we’re currently eyeing are perfect for those who are always on the move. The full QWERTY Nokia E75 uses the company’s new email user interface to offer a richer messaging experience. It also comes standard with Nokia Messaging that, when added to the company’s corporate email clients, gives people the most efficient solution for accessing consumer and corporate email on the go. You’ll no longer need to boot up a PC to get full desktop email experience.

The enhanced email interface includes folder and HTML email support, expandable views

and sorting capability by date, sender and size, as well as the most commonly used email functions just a single click away.

On top of email, the devices also offer improved calendar capability, as well as contacts and task management. The phone also comes with full Nokia Maps and assisted GPS with integrated three-month license for turn-by-turn navigation, and a great gaming experience with N-Gage on board. With Ovi Files, also included, important files stored on a PC can be remotely managed and shared, even when your PC is switched off. The Nokia E75 is not yet available in Singapore

…one for play The C905 Cyber-shot is Sony Ericsson’s first Cyber-shot slider and its most advanced camera phone yet. With an 8.1 megapixel camera and real camera flash among its cutting-edge capabilities, it offers easy photo-taking in a phone that derives its looks from a digital camera and offers the picture quality to match. A best-seller since it was launched a few months back, the camera-phone now gets an upgrade with the Sony Ericsson software—Smile Shutter technology. New units of the phone will have the software bundled into it while those who already own the phone can download the software from www.sonyericcson.com.

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Easy listening Here’s a boon for those who do business via their mobile phones: The new Plantronics Voyager 835 Bluetooth Headset features three advanced noisecancelling technologies that provide superior clarity and natural voice on both sides of a phone conversation.

Designed to defeat wind and other background noise in a variety of real-world environments, such as a busy street, the new headset has Plantronics Dual-Mic AudioIQ®, which optimizes audio levels and fidelity on both sides of a conversation, with precisely configured dual microphones to accurately isolate voice signals: one microphone captures voice

as the second microphone identifies background noise and removes it. It also has technology that filters and reduces wind distortion, so the Voyager 835 delivers comprehensive noisecancelling over-processing audio, so voices sound natural during conversations. Another benefit of the Voyager 835: Allows users to take calls from any two Bluetooth phones—like a business and a personal phone—from a single headset.

Talk time is up to five hours, stand-by time up to five days and multiple charging options are available, including an in-car kit. Plantronics Voyager 835 Bluetooth Headset is available at major IT retailers in Singapore (MSRP SG$179, exc. GST).

LIFESTYLE

posh space good stuff

INFLIGHT REWARDS Cathay Pacific Cathay Pacific recently unveiled a new range of travel kits for passengers with a new exclusive design from top fashion house Bally and luxury skincare products from Australian brand Aesop.

From April onwards, the airline’s male passengers travelling in First Class will receive a new specially designed black double-zip pouch from Bally. The kits are packed with skincare

products from Italian luxury brand Acca Kappa’s White Moss product line.

The Business Class female and male travel kits feature bags exclusively designed by renowned French fashion brand agnes b. The star-print bag for women is one of agnes b’s signature patterns and comes in cheerful pink and sweet baby blue.

The male double-zip

pouch comes in dark green or black and features the brand’s stylish lizard logo.

The Business Class travel kit for flights departing Hong Kong contains skincare products from Murad, a leading doctor-developed skincare range from the United States that is found in nearly 3,000 of the USA’s best spas and is available

worldwide in 36 countries.

Kits on flights to Hong Kong will continue to carry skincare products from Dermalogica, a US brand founded on the belief that good skincare is not about pampering or luxury.

British Airways British Airways has re-launched its Club World business class amenity kits with a new

BESPOKE GOODIES Custommade shoes Here’s how you justify buying top-flight footwear like Shipton & Heneage shoes: They look good, are custommade, and they’ll last forever, so you’ll end up saving money in the long run. Priced at around €249-€299 for a pair, Shipton & Heneage shoes are now being worn by aristocrats to bankers, to young rockers, and celebrities.

Known for their wide range of traditional English bench-made shoes, these shoemakers deliver top quality made-in-England shoes worldwide—choose from their website or their catalogue.

Shipton & Heneage have two retail shops in London, two

in Paris and one Scotland. www.shipton.com

Artisanal chocolates Indulge and still be socially conscious. What could be better? Askinosie Chocolates are made from beans grown and harvested direct from small farmers in Mexico and Ecuador, and use their own single-origin cocoa butter to put into all their chocolate bars.

The 70% cocoa bar is made from Arriba beans in San Jose

del Tambo, Ecuador, a region in the Andes; while the 75% cocoa bar contains Trinitario beans from Sonconusco, in Mexico. The cocoa beans in

these chocolates are grown organically, so they’re free from pesticides and insecticides.

What’s more, they don’t contain emulsifier and vanilla, so all you get is chocolate in its purest

range of luxury products from Elemis to ensure passengers arrive refreshed and revived at their destination. Elemis and British Airways have together selected items—a facial mist, face moisturiser, lip balm and hand nail cream—to provide a four-step in-flight skincare program which will rejuvenate and re-hydrate passengers’ skin during long-haul flights.

form. As the founder of the company, Shawn Askinosie says, “Our chocolates are made from three things only—cocoa, cocoa butter, and cane sugar.”

Running a social and environmentally friendly enterprise, Askinosie pays farmers nearly 20% more than Fair Trade prices plus a share of the company profits. Its packaging—which had garnered notice from design enthusiasts—is made with natural unbleached material and is biodegradable and recyclable. Askinosie Chocolates are available in Singapore at SomethingToGo at The Regent Singapore. It’s also available at www.askinosie.com

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TRAVELNOTES

gourmand’s corner flight plans bulletin board diary of events

TWO FOR THE ROAD Establishments that got us buzzing

I enjoyed the Clams Steeped in White Wine and Spicy Sauce with Chilli Padi ($16); the alcohol wasn’t used sparingly, and it helped to perk up the taste of the clams.

Another uncomplicated and delicious dish was the Deep Fried Tofu with Salted Egg Yolk and Crab Roe ($18)—the egg yolk coating the silky tofu was hearty without being overpowering. If there is one dish you have to try here, it’s the Apple Tree Wood-fire Roasted Duck in Peking Style ($88). The tender meat,

by Lin Weiwen

One On The Bund

Revamping an old icon is peculiar in Singapore, as if keeping old, sleepy things as they were runs against the ethos of this city that thrives on the new and the gleaming.

Thus, it was with little surprise that, a year ago, the quaint Clifford Pier—an embarkation point for immigrants in the 1930s—went under wraps for a renaissance. Its new incarnation unveiled itself in January: One on the Bund, a restaurant ser ving contemporar y Chinese cuisine.

Thankfully, the pier’s original arched trusses supporting the high ceiling are still intact, preserving an integral part of its original architecture. The restaurant’s ornamental Chinese wood car vings and cur ved, brick walls lend a graceful “old

China” vibe to the décor.

The man behind this Shanghai-esque restaurant is Hong Kong native Calvin Yeung, 45, the restaurant’s Executive Chef and Creative Designer.

With a separate noodle bar, a cocktail bar, and funky tunes spin by guest DJs on weekends, One on the Bund isn’t planning to be your typical Chinese fine eater y, where your dessert marks the curtain call to your evening out.

The cocktail bar with DJs is something Yeung has “always wanted to do in a Chinese restaurant.”

“I want my diners to enjoy themselves while they are here,” says the a f f a b l e r e s t a u r a t e u r, whose Hong Kong-based lifestyle company, Wang Workshop Group, also runs restaurants in Hong Kong.

80 Collyer Quay, Clifford Pier, Singapore; tel (65) 6221 0004

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Old standard, redux FROM TOP: The Old Clifford Pier gets an upgrade graceful arched trusses were retained; brick walls and wood screens add a "China vibe"

sheathed in its crispy skin, is sliced into thin pieces, which you dip in some sugar. The sugary skin, coupled with the subtle wood-scented meat, got me swooning—and addicted. Ladies, please, don’t dump the skin.

Ser vice was a little slow, although the staff was ver y polite. It’s a minor glitch, and I feel it would be smoothened out as One on the Bund gathers more fans. The place has what it takes to make a firm imprint on the local dining scene.

gourmand’s corner flight plans bulletin board diary of events

Tippling Club

When a chef asks you to lick a lollipop during a meal, you know you’re in for an unconventional experience.

Such was my thought, as Chef Ryan Clift showed me the Italian cocktail, Negroni, which, under the hands of his colleague and bar maestro, Matthew Bax, got deconstructed: you mix the separate glasses of Campari, vermouth and soda according to your own preferred amounts into a ball-glass containing an orange ice ball. If the taste isn’t sweet enough, you “lick the accompanying lollipop.”

This penchant for playfulness is part of Tippling Club’s modus operandi. The restaurant aims to remove the snobbery from fine dining by being something of an antithesis of fine-dining decorum.

Its large bar-island bordered by a white counter commands your attention as you enter, while tall windows expose the greener y outside. The vibe is that of a casual bar dishing out food over the

counter.

In fact, the bar is emblematic of the restaurant’s culinar y concept—fine food paired with cocktails, brainchild of Clift, who previously headed the famed Vue de Monde in Melbourne; and bartender Bax, who owns Melbourne’s Der Raum.

“What we do here is modern, inventive cuisine,” says Clift, whose oriental tattoo on his wrist appears like an endorsement of the restaurant’s anti-old school chorus.

“People feel weird with our concept at first, but we tell them, ‘Put your trust in us and let us give you an experience.’ Once they tr y the food, they begin to understand us.”

Well, the understanding takes a while to sink in. The three different

cocktail-and-food pairing set menus (priced from $195 to $420) appear intriguing enough, but fall short of providing brief descriptions to guide you. Thankfully, Clift steps in to of fer his opinions on the menus for his diners, which makes selection easier.

I found the pairing of Negroni cocktail with the pizza, which were pieces of mozzarella bubbles encasing the flavours of Pizza Margherita, delightful: the bittersweet tinge of the tipple went well with the cheesy taste of the reinvented Italian staple dish.

The Teacher’s Tipple—a bottled cocktail of single malt whisky with ginseng and paprika ensconced within a textbook—paired with the Butternut Pumpkin soup was an interesting, perky combination.

The Smoky Old Bastard, a thermo-infused whisky with maple syrup, lived up to its moniker. I found it too robust for my taste, and its paired dessert of Poached Banana With ChocMalt Jelly seemed to go well with my Negroni instead.

Perhaps discovering such a personal preference is one of the joys of dining at the bold Tippling Club.

If you are looking for the Quentin Tarantino of the fine dining scene here, this place is for you.

TRAVELNOTES

Al Fresco

MUM’S THE WORD

Mother’s Day specials for the most important lady in your life ROYAL PLAZA ON SCOTTS Treat your mum to a sumptuous buffet and Champagne at Carousel on 10 May, from 1130am to 230pm. With seven open-concept kitchens, there is something for every mom. For the seafood-loving mums, the seafood and crustacean station offers Maine lobsters and freshly shucked live seasonal oysters. The Asian counter has Thai Roast Duck With Sweet Basil or the all-time favourite, the Singapore Chilli Crab. Delight the young girl in every mother’s heart with delicious desserts like Black Forest Gateau, New York Cheesecake or Vanilla Pastry Cream-Filled Profiterole with Chocolate Sauce.

Aside from the fabulous food, guests may win Atos Wellness signature therapies worth S$280 or door prizes worth S$128 from Ispa. Buffet with champagne, S$98++/person while buffet only S$60++/person. Call (65) 6589 7799 or email carousel@ royalplaza.com.sg for enquiries or reservations.

FAIRMONT SINGAPORE This Mother’s Day, treat Mummy like the royalty she is and give her an indulgent brunch or dinner at Prego. Diners will get to sample authentic Neapolitan cuisine and the renowned flavours of Southern Italy with Prego’s Traditional Casserole of Braised Duck and Pork with Cabbage; Pesce Al Forno (Oven-roasted Fish with Garlic, Mint and Aged Vinegar); Cosciotto Di Maiale (Oven-roasted Prosciutto with Peppered Honey, Chestnuts and Annurca Apple); Manzo Al Pepe Verde (Green Peppercorn, Rosemary and Thyme Marinated Beef Oven-roasted with Garlic Butter and Truffle Oil); Arborio Risotto with Taleggio, Provolone, Asiago and Parmigiano Cheese with Quail Breast wrapped with Pancetta and Sage Leaf; a myriad of Pan-Tossed Pasta cooked a la minute with sauce selection; a Pizza Corner and a Children’s Corner featuring cooked Ham Panino, Chicken Nuggets, French Fries; Fusilli Al Pomodoro, Polpettine Di Carne, among others.

Indulge in Mum’s special desserts like Mamma’s Tiramisu, Monte Bianco Chestnut Cream Naples Style “Zuppa Inglese”, Gianduja Chocolate, Passion Fruit Jelly; Old Fashion’s Apple Rustic Tart; Spicy Apricot Panna Cotta, Pistachio Waffles with Ice Cream and Condiments, and other toothsome delights.

Best deal of all: Mums get to dine for free on Mother’s Day and get to cook special Italian dishes with Chef Salvatore on a special Mother’s Day Cooking Class. A souvenir Mamma Apron will be presented to all participating mums. Promo period: 8-10 May. For reservations and enquiries, call (65) 6431 6156 or email: dining.singapore@ fairmont.com

8D Dempsey Road, Singapore 249762; tel (65) 6475 2217; www.tipplingclub.com

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LIFESTYLE

posh space good stuff perk me up

South American experience, via Asia Just when you think South America is all about fiery Latin beats, Banyan Tree Spa offers the tranquil Asian therapies that has become its trademark with the opening of Elements Spa

By Banyan Tree at the Tivoli São Paulo-Mofarrej recently.

Located at Tivoli São Paulo-Mofarrej in the Brazilian city of São Paulo, Elements Spa By Banyan Tree occupies 660 square metres within the prestigious Tivoli Hotel.

The urban day spa is the perfect sanctuary for the senses, featuring an extensive selection of Asian-inspired spa treatments to rejuvenate the body, mind and soul. Its spa therapists are professionally trained at the Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Phuket, Thailand.

The spa at Tivoli São Paulo-Mofarrej presents carefully selected traditional Asian therapies to pamper both the leisure and business travellers.

What to try? We suggest the signature 180-minute Candle

Energy treatment package, which is especially designed for the Spa. It begins with a steam bath to prepare the body for the Candle Energy Massage and face massage that follow. The highlight of this experience is the Candle Energy Massage, which starts with a breathing exercise, guided by the therapist.

The massage uses long firm strokes and warm massage oil to improve circulation and relieve stress. The face massage is designed to relax facial muscles and restore the glow to the complexion. Elements Spa

By Banyan Tree also provides traditional Asian therapies like ayurvedic, Chinese, Indonesian, and Thai treatments as well as a comprehensive range of massages, facial and hand and foot treatments, suitable for time-challenged business travellers and leisure guests.

To celebrate Elements Spa By Banyan Tree’s opening in Brazil for the very first time, the spa is offering 30% savings on massages and 15% savings on treatment packages until 30 April 2009. Advanced reservation is recommended.

Perfect gloomtime antidote With the global financial downturn showing no signs of bottoming out soon, we need relaxing ways of refocusing our energies from the stress of everyday life.

To regain that crucial sense of balance, Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Singapore launched SoSpa Specials.

“SoSpa” is short for Social Spa-ing, one of the hottest

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movements in the world of spas today,” explains Trevor Studd, Director of Spa at Fairmont Singapore’s Willow Stream Spa. “SoSpa has been part of the fabric of our spas even before it became a trend. We want to make Willow Stream Spa a place where our members and guests feel comfortable no matter the occasion or circumstance— alone or with friends,

celebrating life or escaping the worries of a tiring day.”

What’s in store for the year?

Special spa offerings like “Spa It Forward.” After their spa, guests will receive an exclusive “Spa It Forward” sealed envelope.

Inside the envelope is a special spa gift which is meant to be given to anyone the guest would like to thank and pamper with a luxurious and relaxing

experience. The envelope must remain sealed for it to be valid and can be used with a booking of any 60-minutes or more spa experience. The offer value ranges from $25 to $100.

The “SoSpa Solo” meanwhile is perfect for those who wish to spend quality moments alone. Buy any signature treatment of 60 minutes or more and enjoy a free 30-minute express manicure,

LIFESTYLE 60-minutes, excluding salon), will receive a complimentary gourmet lunch at Alligator Pear. All promos are valid from 1 March-30 April 2009.

Terms and conditions apply.

For more information, www.fairmont.com

Four-in-hand Those who think one therapist isn’t enough should try

oils. Treatment then follows with a citrus and neam foot wash to rid negative energy.

Next, a “Tea Fusion Balancing Bath,” using detoxifying leaves to draw toxins from the body

while you relax in the soothing warm soak. The therapists then start the treatment with a deep rhythmical massage targeting stubborn muscle knots to release tension and restore vitality from head to toe. You will leave with a body completely renewed in every sense.

Treatment duration ranges from 90-120 minutes. The massage is available at Spa Cenvaree Bangkok, Hua Hin, and Phuket and select branches throughout Thailand, from April onwards and available at Spa Cenvaree in Samui from May onwards.

For more info, www.spacenvaree.com

Selfregeneration philosophy Considered in cultures around the world as the embodiment of purity, the lotus is also one of the eight symbols of Buddhism and represents enlightenment, rebirth, and self-regeneration.

It’s also the perfect symbol for the newly opened Anantara

LIFESTYLE

pedicure or massage which must be enjoyed on the same occasion. “SoSpa Parties” are special packages that the Spa Concierge will create based on a group’s unique wants and needs. As an additional treat, SoSpa Parties or groups of four or more persons who booked multiple treatments from 1 March-30 April 2009 (minimum

Spa Cenvaree’s signature massage this year. Called “Thai Harmony,” the treatment calls for two experienced therapists to minister to your need. Performed in unison by two expertly trained therapists, guests experience a new level of well-being, and relaxation with twice the effect. Combining Swedish, acupressure, shiatsu, Thai yoga and reflexology, the massage targets aching muscles and alleviates circulatory problems by promoting lymph flow.

This treatment is also designed to help guests to achieve an enhanced level of physical and mental relaxation.

When muscles become relaxed, tensions disappear, the mind is calm and the body is ready for the renewal of new cells.

The treatment begins with choosing your aromatherapy

posh space good stuff perk me up

Spa Phuket. The new spa has a unique range of treatments in homage to the mystical influences of the lotus: the white lotus for cleansing and de-stressing, the red lotus for the romance of couple’s treatments, and the majestic double rose lotus to represent the stunning spa rituals.

The Anantara Spa Phuket is set over 1,000 square metres and has five treatment suites, some with sumptuous bathtubs for bathing rituals, a suite dedicated to the ancient Indian therapies of ayurveda and a yoga sala. Nurturing receptionists and therapists are trained to create highly personalised programs for guests.

The signature massage is a perfect blend of East and West that allows guests to experience the benefits of traditional oriental medicine in comfort and relaxation. The therapist uses a unique blend of oils and purpose-designed massage to concentrate on the body’s meridian lines to stimulate blood circulation, provide deep relaxation of the muscles and clear any blockages of energy or prana.

Anantara Phuket offers three and five-day spa journeys so guests can totally immerse themselves into a quest for healthy living, spiritual vitality and sheer beauty, both inside and out. There are special treatments for two including massages, facials and body treatments for couples, friends, or mothers and daughters in one of the double therapy suites.

For more information, www.anantara.com

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traveldeals ∗ Terms and conditions apply.

Thailand : Bundle of Joy Amari Vogue Resort, on Krabi’s pristine Tub Kaek Beach, introduces a buy-two-get-one-free deal: Book for two nights, and stay one more night free at this five-star accommodation. Package includes American breakfast buffet. Available until October 31.

Amari Vogue Resort, Tub Kaek Beach, A. Muang, Krabi, Thailand 81000.

For more info, tel (66) (0) 7560 7777; www.amari.com/vogue

Bali: Family Fun Weekend Spend time with the family for the Easter break at Intercontinental Bali Resort. From April 10-12, festivities get underway with a sunset bonfire dinner on Good Friday, culminating in the resort’s famous “Alice in Wonderland” tea party on Saturday afternoon. Sunday morning begins with an Easter Egg Hunt in the resort’s gardens. Room rates start at US$195 ++ per room per night.

For further information, please call (62) 361 701 888 or visit www.bali.intercontinental.com.

Thailand : Cool Summer Feel the Thai heritage in the comfort of modern amenities: U Chiang Mai is a mere 20 minutes from Chiang Mai International Airport. Moreover, its Residents’ Lounge and three spa treatment rooms are located in the past residence of Chiang Mai’s governor, adding an aura of grandeur.

From 3,599+++ Baht for a superior room and 4,599+++ Baht for a deluxe room, breakfast for two persons is served whenever and wherever you like. Other amenities: Free Wi-Fi Internet access everywhere in the hotel plus free use of bikes so you get to explore Chiang Mai. U Chiang Mai, 70 Ratchadamnoen Road, Sri-Poom, Muang District, Chiang 50200, Thailand.

For more information or reservation, tel (66) 53 327 0000 or email: reserve@uhotelresorts.com

Singapore : Getaway in the City Four Seasons Hotel Singapore presents a package for the recessionista’s getaway in the city. Spend two nights in a newly refurbished room and immerse in the quiet residential ambience of the hotel.

Included in the deal are sumptuous daily buffet breakfast at One-Ninety, a healthy dim sum lunch at Jiang–Nan Chun, and a 60-minute spa session. Rates start at S$958+++.

Four Seasons Hotel Singapore is located at 190 Orchard Boulevard, Singapore 248646.

For reservations, tel: (65) 6831 7305 or email: reservations.sin@fourseasons.com

Thailand : Celebrate Thai New Year Explore the heart of Bangkok at Grand Millennium Sukhumvit during Songkran festival (April 1315) to take part in the water-throwing festivities all over town. Starting from 5,300++ Baht for single and double-occupancy for a night stay in a deluxe room with a minimum of two-night stay required.

The package comes with complimentary use of swimming pool and fitness centre, a buy-one-get-onefree dinner at Atelier, 50% discount on the second a la carte treatment at Antidote Spa and 25% off limousine service. Valid from April 1 – 19.

Grand Millennium Sukhumvit is located at 30 Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Road, Bangkok 10110 Thailand.

For reservations, tel: +66(0) 2204 4111 or email: rsvn@grandmillenniumskv.com and quote “PRSKR”

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∗ Terms and conditions apply.

China : The Meeting Place Take advantage of Hotel Kunlun’s exceptional meeting package promotion. The hotel has over 15 small and medium-sized banquet rooms and an 800-sq m grand banquet hall—perfect for hosting international conferences and large-scale banquets. The summer meeting package promotion rates are at RMB 550 net per person per day and RMB 480 net per person for half day. The fee includes use of function room, morning and afternoon coffee breaks, an international buffet lunch, a complimentary coffee break and complimentary use of hotel stationery. A minimum of 20 attendees required. Valid May 1-Aug 31.

Hotel Kunlun, 2 Xin Yuan Nan Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100004, China.

For further information, tel (86) 10 6590 3388 or email: events@hotelkunlun.com

Malaysia : Suite Deal Complete with full range of amenities, facilities and services, One World Hotel is integrally set in the suburb of Petaling Jaya’s business and commercial district and adjoined to Utama Shopping Centre.

For each booking of the hotel’s executive club deluxe or deluxe plus room on the Peridot Club floors, guests will be upgraded to a junior suite on a complimentary basis. Priced at RM 860 and RM 920 respectively, the package includes discreet and efficient check-in and check-out, complimentary pressing of one suit upon arrival, club lounge, breakfast, complimentary usage of meeting room and wired and wireless Internet access. Valid from Jan 1 – June 30.

One World Hotel is located at First Avenue, Bandar Utama, 47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia. For further enquiries or reservations, tel: +603 7681 1110 or email: reservations@oneworld.com.my

Hong Kong : Easter Holiday Deal Easily accessible to major shopping and business districts via various public transportation and the hotel’s shuttle bus service, Regal Riverside Hotel makes an ideal venue to spend the Easter holiday with your loved ones.

The Family Room Package for three persons at HK$1,098 entitles guests to the same value of dining credits at 10 hotel restaurants and bars offering fabulous choices of cuisine. Included in the package are activities like cooking class, cutie bunny weight guessing game, cultural tour and family fitness training class. Valid from Apr 9-14.

Regal Riverside Hotel is located at 34-36 Tai Chung Kiu Road, Shatin, Hong Kong. For reservations and enquiries, tel +852 2132 1213. www.regalhotel.com

Thailand : Family FantaSea Unlock your imagination and be amazed by the marvels that unfold. Fabulous Courtyard by Marriott Bangkok at Surin Beach unveils a great deal to Phuket FantaSea, a stunning 140-acre cultural theme park you don’t want to miss.

Package rates begin at 7,500 baht and you are in for the pleasures of deluxe overnight accommodations, roundtrip transportation between the hotel and Phuket FantaSea, entrance admission to Phuket FantaSea for two adults and two children under 12 and a buffet dinner and show at the theme park. Minimum three-night stay required. Valid until Dec 19.

Courtyard by Marriott Bangkok is located at 155/1 Soi Mahadlekluang 1, Rajdamri Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand. For reservations, tel: +66 2656 7707 or email: bookmarriott@marriotthotels.com

China: Take a Meeting Until 30 June, Radisson Hotel Shanghai New World’s Stay&Meet Package gives the best deal for meeting organizers. Superior rooms are priced at 1,300 RMB and guests enjoy free use of in-room broadband both cable and wireless, access to fitness centre and indoor swimming pool, free upgrade of one Superior Room to Deluxe Suite for the top attendee, late check-out upon request, subject to availability.

Meeting packages are priced at RMB 398*/498* per person (half day / full day). This includes use of conference room, a working lunch on a group basis at Windows on the Park buffet, one or two refreshment break(s).

88 Nanjing Road, Shanghai 200003, China; tel (86) 21 6359 9999; www.radisson.com; email sales@radisson-nw.com

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traveldeals

Thailand: Great Escape Unwind at Courtyard by Marriott Phuket at Kamala Beach, with their Escape Spa Package for couples.

Araya spa is the perfect setting for your romantic retreat, appealing with its unique and exotic spa treatments that reflect beauty and spirit. Three nights’ stay includes: deluxe accommodation; breakfast for two adults daily; 60 minutes traditional Thai massage for two people. A five nights’ stay has an additional Thai set dinner for two. Room rates from 3,500 baht per night. The promo is good until December 19, 2009, rates subject to combined service charge and government taxes.

Call (66) 2656 7707, or email bookmarriott@marriotthotels.com, through any Marriott worldwide toll free reservation number, courtyard.com.

Thailand: Dive In! Zeavola Resort, the only luxury villa resort on Phi Phi Island invites you to plunge into the Andaman Sea with the Zdive @ Zeavola! package. This adventurous two-person package starts from 8,800 baht per night in a beautiful Village Suite. Rate is inclusive of daily breakfast at Baxil restaurant, one dive session per day*, including boat transfer and equipment, and complimentary wireless internet access throughout your stay. (Subject to 10% service charge and 7% VAT). Available until October 31, 2009; email reservation@zeavola.com

Worldwide: Spring Fling!

Experience the splendours of spring with Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts’ Spring Saver Package! From 1 March-31 May 2009, guests can enjoy 20% savings on best available rates for bookings of a minimum of two nights at any of our 28 properties around the world.

For more info, visit www.swissotel.com

China: Double Perk Le Royal Méridien Shanghai is offering special rates for a minimum two-night stay at CNY1,680 (MondayThursday), CNY1,450 (Friday-Sunday) inclusive of daily breakfast for one and Internet access. The 15% service charge is excluded. The offer is valid through April except from April 17 to April 19.

For reservations, please call +86 21 3318 9999 ext. 8999.

Singapore: Body and Soul Deal Stay at the city’s most historic hotel and get the following for a good rate: two-night stay, a complimentary Singapore Sling delivered to your room, daily breakfast at Tiffin Room for two, a 60-minute Amrita Spa aromatherapy massage for two, and S$500 worth of discount shopping vouchers.

For more information, visit www.raffles.com

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Thailand: Northern Exposure Explore the legendary city of Chiang Mai and enjoy the splashing during Songkran with Amari Rincome Hotel’s package with 3,999 baht/room (based on twin sharing). The deal includes: three days/two nights in a standard room, a daily American breakfast, international buffet lunch at La Gritta Restaurant, complimentary return airport transfer and shuttle bus service to the Chiang Mai night market, and discounts on food, beverage, and laundry services. Promo valid 11-19 April.

For more info, www.amari.com/rincome

Hong Kong: It’s a Small World After All Visitors from selected cities in Mainland China and Asian destinations will get a chance to visit Hong Kong Disneyland with Cathay Pacific and Dragon Air’s “Buy 2-Get 1 Free” travel package. The promo invites visitors from Mainland China and Asian cities to travel in groups of three, with the third person enjoying the package for free. Visitors should fly with Cathay Pacific or Dragon Air and stay at one of the two Hong Kong Disneyland hotels or selected hotels in the city. Booking period is now till 23 June 2009 for travel period of now to 30 June 2009.

For more info, go to www.cathaypacific.com or www.dragonair.com

England: London Calling Enjoy a five-star Easter vacation at Jumeirah Carlton Tower for as low as £169 per room under the hotel’s Easter Saver Package. Under the Family Easter Bonanza package, families can take advantage of the hotels Easter offering—for just £441/night, they can book a junior suite, which sleeps two adults and two children under 12 years old. The rate includes breakfast. Anyone booking these packages over the Easter weekend will also get a visit from the Easter Bunny who’ll be delivering eggs on Easter Sunday. Promo valid from 29 March to 13 April 2009.

For more info, www.jumeirahcarltontower.com

China: Recharge and Regroup Forget about stress for awhile with The Westin Guangzhou’s Heavenly Spa Package. For a minimum two night stay at RMB1,260++/night, wake up to daily buffet breakfast at at Taste Restaurant, RMB525 spa credit per room per stay (based on two-night stay), late checkout and Westin’s best available rate.

Offer valid for stays on Friday, Saturday and Sunday until 31 April 2009.

For more info, www.starwoodshotel.com

China: Easy Does It For those who want to relax and unwind, take advantage of Hotel Royal Macau’s “Free and Easy” package. For a rate of HK$680++, visitors staying at the hotel can enjoy deluxe room accommodation.

American buffet breakfast for two, complimentary in-room broadband Internet access, use of indoor heated swimming pool and fitness equipment, shuttle bus transfer between hotel and Maritime Ferry Terminal, and a special rate for half-day extension.

For more information, www.hotelroyal.com.mo

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TRAVELNOTES

new routes & frequencies new rooms

New hotels are opening their doors to guests. Here are some that are ready — or almost ready — to provide second homes to them.

Doubletree by Hilton Huaqiao/Kunshan The 24-storey hotel is in the new Huaqiao Central Business District, which is strategically located between Shanghai and Suzhou. Situated along the main expressway that connects Shanghai and Suzhou, the hotel is near Shanghai’s two major airports and Shanghai Automobile City and China’s Formula 1 racing circuit.

Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Hotel Hong Kong’s newest five-star hotel is located right next to Hong Kong International Airport and the Sky Pier ferry terminal, scheduled to open later this year.

It is also connected via a covered footbridge to AsiaWorld Expo—a 70,000 square meter international exhibition centre and convention centre including an arena.

Number of rooms: 658 spacious guests rooms over 11 floors—one presidential suite, 32 suites, and 119 executive rooms.

All rooms are tripled-glazed and feature Marriott’s new bedding and the latest in-room technology with views of the ocean or golf course.

Meeting and banqueting space: Over 1,300 metres (14,000 square feet). Adjacent to the hotel, the SkyCity Grand

Ballroom has an area of 650 square metres (7,000 square feet). This venue has a separate entrance from the hotel and also accommodates bespoke branding opportunities for conferences and events. There are an additional 10 meeting rooms and boardrooms.

Recreational options: The nine-hole SkyCity Nine Eagles Executive Golf Course offers golf packages. Quan Spa pampers with relaxing treatments, health club equipped an impressive 27-meter indoor pool, sauna, steam rooms, Jacuzzi and a 24-hour gym provides a good workout.

sleep experience complete with high-threadcount linens and an abundance of pillows. Executive Floor rooms and suites feature additional amenities, as well as access to an Executive Club lounge, which serves breakfast every morning and hosts a specialized reception each afternoon and evening.

Recreational facilities: Open-air lushly landscaped rooftop garden, a heated indoor swimming pool, a Doubletree Fitness by Precor® facility.

Dining options: the signature Sui Yuan Chinese Restaurant with its 15 private dining rooms. Guests can relax with fellow travelers or business associates in the sophisticated Lobby Lounge, or in the private floor Executive Club lounge.

Restaurants: The hotel has six restaurants. Velocity Bar and Grill (a sports bar), Man Ho Restaurant (Chinese), Red Zen (Japanese), Sky City Bistro (international cuisine),The Lounge(forunwinding),Java+(quick take-away treats and coffee).

Ibis Singapore on Bencoolen The largest ibis hotel in Asia Pacific, is ideally located on Bencoolen Street in the heart of the Bugis cultural and art district, and within easy reach of Orchard Road. The hotel is conveniently near some

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New rooms: Has 397 rooms, all equipped with smart workspaces and seating areas; high-speed Internet access; LCD, flat panel TV; a personal safe; and complimentary in-room coffee and tea service. The rooms also feature the brand’s signature Sweet Dreams™ by Doubletree

Banquet and meeting space: Has more than 2,500 square metres of banquet and meeting space with state-ofthe-art audio-visual equipment.

Seven function halls surround an 850 square-metre columnfree Grand Ballroom, which has easy access for large events of local automotive, manufacturing, and race communities. All conference rooms have broadband Internet access with and well-trained support staff.

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Four Points

By Sheraton Kuching Located just minutes from Kuching International Airport, it is adjacent to the Gyratory roundabout, 15 minutes south of the city center.

Number of rooms: 421 spacious rooms. All guestrooms have the signature Four Points by Sheraton Four Comfort Bed, large workspace with ergonomic desk chair, 32-inch plasma television and a laptop-sized safe.

Meeting and banqueting space: The Rainforest Ballroom can accommodate up to 1,300 people for a sit-down banquet.

Recreational facilities: Fitness center, outdoor swimming pool, a spa, steam room and sauna.

Dining options: The hotel has three restaurants. The Eatery (all-day dining with open kitchen); Wrapped, a café-deli; and The Lounge, for cocktails and light business meetings.

of Singapore’s largest corporate offices and the Suntec Singapore International Convention and Exhibition Centre close by.

with high ceilings and large bay windows.All rooms have free Wi-Fi Internet access and flat-screen TVs with cable channels.

Number of rooms: 538 rooms—all boast contemporary, stylish design and furnishings,

Dining options: The hotel’s restaurant—TASTE—has its unique dining concept endorsed

by makan guru KF Seetoh who has designed a menu composed of 20 of Singapore’s most iconic dishes, all of which can be enjoyed “tapas style.” The dishes are competitively priced and available for lunch and dinner.

TRAVELNOTES

gourmand’s corner flight plans bulletin board diary of events

Marriott Announces Global Green Golf Initiative

SUMAQ VIP Lounge Named Lounge of the Year 2009 Priority Pass announced that its members have rated the SUMAQ VIP Lounge, Jorge Chavez International Airport, Lima as the Lounge of the Year 2009.

The SUMAQ VIP lounge belongs to Inversiones Fisa S.A., a Peruvian corporation and was opened in its current format in 2005 after an initial investment of US$1.5 million (M). It offers a wide range of services for travelers, including high-quality business facilities for those who want to work, as well as relaxation rooms with blankets and pillows, shower facilities, and outstanding personalised service.

This is the first time that the global award has been given to

an airport lounge outside the United States. The yearly award, which started in 2004, is the result of an annual poll of Priority Pass members throughout the world, who rate the lounges they have visited. Priority Pass members recorded over 16,000 lounge ratings for the 2009 awards, and have more experience than most of the services available at airports. Four airport lounges won regional Lounge of the Year awards: Continental Presidents Club, Terminal E, Houston (North America), Swiss Lounge, BaselMulhouse (Europe), HUB Lounge, East Wing, Seoul Incheon (Asia Pacific), Dilmun Lounge, Bahrain (Middle East/Africa).

On the heels of its 2008 environmental program, whereby 24 Marriott Golf managed properties in North America and one signature property in the Caribbean became Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries, Marriott Golf, one of the world’s premier golf operators, recently announced that the program will be expanded, requiring 17 international golf properties to become Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries by the end of 2009.

Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries, which enable golf facilities to protect the environment by

enhancing precious natural areas and wildlife habitats, are part of a systemwide commitment by Marriott International, Inc. to promote environmental stewardship.

In order to achieve Audubon Certification, a golf facility is required to demonstrate that it is maintaining the highest degree of environmental quality in many areas including Environmental Planning, Wildlife and Habitat Management, Outreach and Education, Chemical Use Reduction and Safety, Water Conservation, and Water Quality Management. Marriott’s global Audubon programme includes 23 golf courses at 17 international

golf properties, highlighted by The Abaco Club on Winding Bay in the Bahamas and The Mallorca Marriott Son Antem Resort & Spa in Mallorca, Spain.

“With so much success in 2008, expanding the program to include our international properties was the next logical step and truly elevates our position as an environmental leader in worldwide golf course management,” said Robert Waller, senior director of grounds, Marriott Golf. “We are committed to promoting the game of golf in an eco-friendly way, and working with Audubon allows us to do that while also maintaining the integrity of our premier courses.”

the Chairman of CAAS, Mr Liew Mun Leong.

Speaking at the reception, Minister Lim said, “Whatever his or her role, every person is critical to the Changi experience. All of us at Changi Airport must work hard to maintain our air hub position.

Whether you are a staff of the airport, an airline, a retail outlet,

a ground handler or a security agency, we must work together.

As always, excellent customer service will be key to retaining the competitive edge.” The pursuit of service excellence has enabled Changi Airport to continue to win Best Airport awards. In the first two months of 2009 alone, Changi Airport bagged four awards: Best Worldwide Airport by Buying Business Travel, Top Worldwide Airport by Wanderlust, Best Airport in Asia Pacific by DestinAsian, and the inaugural Best Duty Free Airport award by Luxury Travel & Style Magazine, which Changi won for the first time.

Changi Airport Staff Recognized For Excellent Service At the Annual Airport Reception organised by the Civil Aviation Authority of Singapore (CAAS) recently, airport staff from the entire Changi airport community were recognised for their efforts in delivering excellent service and contributing to Changi’s success. Some 20 awards were presented to airport staff who gave exemplary service.

The event was graced by Mr Raymond Lim, Minister for Transport and Second Minister for Foreign Affairs.

Three awards were presented at the reception: Service Personality of the Year, Outstanding Service Providers, and Outstanding Team Award.

CAAS’ Customer Service Officer

under P-Serv Pte Ltd, Ms Sarah Jane Casama was bestowed the top award Service Personality of the Year, for going beyond the call of duty to assist a passenger.

For over three days, she helped a Tagalog-speaking passenger who had missed his flight due to a medical condition. Over the three days, and even during her off day, Ms Casama provided constant help to

the passenger, assisting to make numerous changes to his flight arrangements and highlighting the passenger’s medical condition to the airline.

For her outstanding achievement, she received S$1,000 of Changi shopping vouchers, a crystal trophy and a certificate of commendation signed by

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TRAVELNOTES

gourmand’s corner flight plans bulletin board diary of events

Check out the latest flight routes and services of the various airlines of the world.

Air France Tests Its New Smart Card

Etihad Launches Limo Service For Premium Passengers In Singapore Starting March, first and business class passengers can avail of the Etihad Chauffeur service from anywhere within Singapore and Sentosa Island to and from Changi International Airport.

Geert Boven, Etihad Airways’ executive vice president sales and services, says, “The launch of Etihad Chauffeur is a further demonstration of our commitment in Singapore to provide bestin-class levels of hospitality.”

Starting 17 March and up to the end of 2009, Air France will be asking those Flying Blue customers who travel most frequently from Paris to Amsterdam to test its new automated boarding system, smartboarding ® .

This new system is a world first. With a personal card which contains the latest biometric technology (encrypted fingerprints), RFID (radio frequency identification) and thermal printing (the back of the card can be reused up to 500 times), passengers will be

able to board through a dedicated portal whenever they choose.

Developed together with Citizengate, the smartboarding® service has four stages: 1. In a special office at the airport, guests register their identity information (surname, first name, Flying Blue membership number), and his encrypted fingerprints into the smart card.

2. On the day of departure, customers insert their card into the smartboarding® kiosk which comes out

with their boarding pass printed on the back.

3. As soon as boarding starts, passengers choose the precise time they wish to board through a dedicated portal near the jetway. This equipment checks that the passenger is alone and reads the information on the smartboarding® card and compares it with the passenger’s fingerprints.

4. At the door of the aircraft, passengers show their card to the crew, in the same way as a normal boarding pass.

The airline appointed Roset Limousine Services to provide the new service with a fleet of Mercedes E series vehicles that come fully equipped with wireless Internet connectivity for the business traveller on-the-go.

The Etihad Chauffeur service is available also to the airline’s premium customers at key destinations in Europe, North America, Asia, Australia and UAE, with more destinations to be added in 2009.

Royal Jordanian Launches Mobile Inflight Passenger Communications Service

The new commercial service, which will be available in the first phase on its A319 aircraft flying to Europe, the Middle East,

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North Africa and India, will enable passengers to stay connected inflight using their own mobile phones or BlackBerry-type

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devices to send and receive text messages and emails, make and receive phone calls and access the Internet. Passengers will also be able to access the Internet using their own laptops fitted with GSM data cards.

To access Mobile OnAir, passengers simply switch on their GSM-enabled phones when cabin signs indicate that the Mobile OnAir service may be used. As long as their mobile service provider has a roaming agreement with OnAir, passengers are able to use GSM and GPRS services as

seamlessly as they would on the ground. Phones or BlackBerrytype devices connect to an antenna onboard the aircraft and a mini-GSM network. The mini-GSM network sends the calls and data via an Inmarsat SwiftBroadband satellite link to the ground where it connects to the OnAir ground infrastructure.

This then routes the calls and data to public networks. Pricing is set by the passenger’s home mobile operator and varies from operator to operator.

The Royal Jordanian launch comes amidst mounting

demand for inflight passenger communications. A growing number of commercial airlines and private aviation companies either currently offer OnAir inflight communications services or will offer them in the near future. This includes airlines such as Air Asia, AirAsia X,Airblue, British Airways, bmi, Jazeera, Kingfisher, Oman Air, Ryanair, Shenzhen Airlines, TAM, TAP and Wataniya Airways.

OnAir also serves private VIP and governmental customers through partnerships with Airbus Corporate Jets, Aviation Centre Cologne and Jet Aviation.

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(until end May) SINGAPORE: TASTING NEW ZEALAND Catch this gastronomic celebration of the flavours of New Zealand at Whitebait & Kale where Head Chef Nabil Tan showcases pristine seafood and uncommon herbs and spices native to New Zealand. There will be two cooking classes on Apr 18 at Whitebait & Kale and on Apr 25 at Palate Sensations by Chef Nabil Tan. For more information, tel: +65 6333 8697 or email marcom@whitebaitandkale.com

(until Apr 13) THAILAND: A “COOL” SONGKHRAN Join in the fun to a series of Songkhran activities at boutique beach resort Alila Cha-am. Enjoy the best of the west with complimentary Easter chocolates, an egg hunt as well as egg painting. You are also invited to unique experiences of the Songkhran alms giving, long drum parade, water blessing, sand sculpture competition and lantern releasing on the beach.

For enquiries or reservations, please visit “latest promotions” at www.alilahotels.com, tel: +66 2 381 4823/4 or email chaam@alilahotels.com

(until Apr 12) SINGAPORE: “EGG-CITING” EPICUREAN “EGGS-TRAVAGANZA” Pick from three different styles to savour Easter Sunday Brunch at Fairmont Singapore. For a family fiesta, Prego assembles the most luscious seafood dishes. At Plaza Market Café be delighted with authentic Peranakan, traditional and regional delights. On The Sweetest Good Friday, the Café has specially designed goodies for a toothsome treat.

Szechuan Court presents two six-course set lunch menus to satisfy every discerning gourmand.

For all dining reservations and enquiries, tel: +65 6431 6156 or email dining.singapore@fairmont.com

(until Apr 19) SOUTH AUSTRALIA : BAROSSA VINTAGE FESTIVAL 2009 Celebrate food, wine and people at the Barossa Vintage Festival, the largest and longest running wine tourism festival in Australia. The festival showcases the rich diversity of the Barossa region under this year’s theme of “Celebrate the blend.” For more information, www.barossavintagefestival.com.au

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(until May 3) SOUTH AUSTRALIA: GOURMET WEEKEND The Clare Valley Gourmet Weekend opens its door for an extravaganza of the world-renowned wines of beautiful Clare Valley. Began in 1985, the event is the first of its kind in Australia. A pioneer group of local winemakers continue the tradition using their innovative approach to food and wine. For more information, tel: +61 8 8843 0122 or email cvwi@bigpond. com

travelnotes

april

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(until May 24) MALAYSIA: BINTAN TRIATHLON Race participants will start the course with a swim at the picturesque beaches off Nirwana Gardens, followed by a bike race and run through to the undulating hills and greenery of Nirwana Gardens. organisers are expecting a crowd of 1,400 participants across all categories. For more info, www. bintanmarathon.com

(until May 17) HONG KONG : ART HK 09 ART HK, Hong Kong International Art Fair returns to Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) hosting over 110 exhibiting galleries from 24 countries.

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(until June 7) SINGAPORE: CHRISTIAN LACROIX, THE COSTUMIER For the first time in Asia, 80 spectacular costumes and 60 sketches from renowned French fashion designer Christian Lacroix will be on display at the National Museum of Singapore. The works are courtesy of the Centre National du Costume de Scene and the designer’s personal collection. The works span over 20 years and more than 25 stage productions.

For more info, www.nationalmuseum.sg

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(until May 10) VIETNAM: CARAVELLE’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY Peter Arnett, one of the 20th century’s most distinguished war correspondents and winner of the 1966 Pulitzer Prize for his reporting on Vietnam, returns to the former Saigon as the historic Caravelle Hotel celebrates the 50th Anniversary of its opening. Arnett booked into the hotel while covering the Vietnam War.

www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |

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newsight+experience Text & Photography by Subhro Mitra

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Are you a camera bug?

Do you have a vignette that you’d want to share? Send in your photo that speaks “wow”, “amazing” and it might just be the New Sight + Experience for our June 09 issue. Send the hi-res image (300dpi, A4 size, TIFF/JPEG) to zarinajohari@epl.com.sg by May 13, 2009.

52 | Frequent traveller

52 | Frequent traveller