NOVEMBER 2009
FREQUENT
Complete resource for the corporate Traveller
November 2009 MICA(P) 231/06/2009 KDN NO. PP(S) 1221/10/2010 (028276)
Special Feature THE MAGIC OF
makeovers Hip hotel get an upgrade PLAYING SAFE
GRANADA v LONDON v MYANMAR vXIAMEN
10
Things to Watch Out For When
Choosing a Hotel
How to Prevent Identity Theft
INFLIGHT DELIGHTS
Winter
Wonderlands Give the beach a rest and
Enterainment options for the bored traveller
head north for a holiday
KDN NO. PP(S) 1221/10/2010 (028276) MICA(P) 231/06/2009
www.frequenttraveller.com.sg Australia A$6.00 • China CNY51 • Hong Kong HK$40.00 India INR212 • Korea KRW56 • Malaysia RM9.10 New Zealand NZ$9.10 • Philippines P90 • Singapore S$6.00 Taiwan TWD170 • Thailand Bht130 • Vietnam US$6.00
Pack your bags for…
GRANADA v LONDON v MYANMAR v XIAMEN
contents NOVEMBER 2009
FEATUREs
26 Makeover Magic
Even venerable hotels need refurbishment and renovation to keep ahead of the game. Here are what stalwarts in the hotel industry are doing By Menaga Vincent
GUIDELINES 6 In It to Win It
Air Miles guru Sir Keith Mills on why yachting and the worlds of high finance and business have much in common By Louay Habib
8 The Swiss Standard
Movenpick is known for its FirstWorld Swiss efficiency. What’s it like transplanting its standards to Asia? Knuth Kiefer, GM of Movenpick Hanoi tells us By Jamie Nonis
CORP HUB 12 That’s Air-ntertainment!
The tough competition among airlines has gone even into what they offer their passengers in terms of entertainment onboard
20 An Upward Course for Down Under
How is business Down Under? We take a look at Australia’s economic and business health
By Michele Koh
16 Identity Crisis
The many ways to transact business these days have given rise to a new kind of white-collar crime: identity theft. Here’s what you need to know By Michele Koh
By Kathy Khoo
23 Taiwan Toughs It Out
Reviving from a recent devastating typhoon, Taiwan picks up the pieces and moves on By Sharmila Rajah
Frequent Traveller is published eight times a year by Eastern Publishing Pte Ltd; Web: www.frequenttraveller.com.sg; To subscribe, see page 65
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DESTINATIONS
LIFESTYLE
32 Behind the Curtain
56 Winter Ice-capades
Myanmar is always an intriguing place to visit, given that for much of its history it’s always held the world at bay. Here’s a first-hand account
Hibernate in some of the best ski and winter destinations in the world By Kathy Khoo
By Shan Chua
60 Eye of the Beholder 36 Slumming It
London should be on everyone’s European vacation. Here’s a basic itinerary
Talking photography with renowned National Geographic photographer Kris LeBoutillier By Jansen Lim
By Amy Van
62 The Nose Knows 40 Cold Mountains, Hidden Valleys
With its snowcapped mountains, historic architecture, and hidden corners Lijiang and Dali in Yunnan Province will enchant lovers of Chinese history and culture
Chivas Regal master blender Colin Scott’s proboscis is his most valuable asset By Weiwen Lin
64 Safe Havens
How to stay safe in your hotel By Tony Ridley
By Mike Smith
20
It’s business as usual in Oz
66 Good Stuff` 44 Boomtown
One of China’s original special economic zones, Xiamen (formerly Amoy) has always had an open and laid-back vibe By Roger Allnutt
68 Posh Space 70 Perk Me Up 72 Gourmand’s Corner 74 Travel Deals
SOJOURN
56
Stay in a glass igloo or Ice Hotel
48 Ubin Interlude
If you think Singapore is all about malls and shopping complexes, think again. Escape to nearby Pulau Ubin for some muchneeded time away from the madding crowd
76 New Rooms 77 Bulletin 78 Flight Plans
Take a sidetrip to one of Europe’s most fascinating cities, Granada By Ming E. Wong
REGULARS
04 My Say
79 Diary of Events 80 New Sight & Experience
Photo courtesy of Club Med
52 The Ornament of the World
On the cover Escape into winter at Club Med Sahoro
By Eric R.A. Balinghasay
FREQUENT
mysay
Managing Director (Operations) Kenneth Tan
Winding down,
speeding
up
Two thousand nine has been an eventful year, and it’s not even over yet. We’ve experienced a global economic crisis, a pandemic, deaths of well-known personalities, major calamities, and a lot of upheavals. Looking at the list, I’m tempted to dwell on the negative and forget about the good things. What good things, you ask? This year, people have become more and more aware of how environmental issues impact on their personal lives and they’re doing everything they can to mitigate the situation. Perhaps because there has been a lot of upheavals, this year has seen the rise of volunteer efforts among communities worldwide to reach out and help people outside their own little circle. This year has also seen the rise, and continued sophistication of online communities to exchange views, ideas, and ways by which to make the world a better place. In the travel and hotel industries, as the year draws to a close, we see innovations and thinking outside the box to induce people to travel. Now is a very good time to go and see the world. Prices of airfares are going down, what with the growing number of budget airlines, and even “non-budget” flights are becoming cheaper, hotel rooms are also going for cheap and it’s now possible to book yourself in a fancy five-star establishment without paying an arm and leg to do it. There’s a democratisation of travel, and the effects of this ought to last, crisis or no crisis. As we cover the various sectors of the travel and hotel industries, we’re inspired by stories like, Taiwan’s premier reaching out to China (pp23-25). If relations between the two countries continue to thaw a decades-old feud might actually end one of these days. Myanmar (pp32-35), which has seen its share of environmental disasters and political upheavals is slowly opening up to tourism. Here’s hoping that more and more travellers discover its hidden charms. As new hotels are built, we see old hotels are getting upgraded and refurbished (pp26-31), breathing new life into venerable favourites. This is a move that we welcome as well. The ability to cope with the changing times is surely a good indication that one can weather even the toughest crisis—and that ought to be good for the industry.
Assistant Editor Terrie Gutierrez terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg Senior Editorial Assistant Sharina Shariff Editorial Assistant Amy Ho amyho@epl.com.sg Senior Art Director/Studio Manager Lawrence Lee Graphic Designers Soh Kee Seng Katherine Ching Contributing Graphic Designer Libby Goh Photographer Eric Chun Managing Director (Sales) Dan Tan Senior Regional Sales Director Connie Tung connietung@epl.com.sg Regional Manager Josephine Teo josephineteo@epl.com.sg Circulation Manager Foo Boon How Circulation Executives Emily Wang Elizabeth Heng Contributors Roger Allnutt, Dennis Balangue, Eric Balinghasay, Shan Chua, Louay Habib, Kathy Khoo, Michele Koh, Jansen Lim, Weiwen Lin, Jamie Nonis, Sharmila Rajah, Tony Ridley, Mike Smith, Sean Su, Amy Van, Menaga Vincent, Ming E. Wong Published By EASTERN PUBLISHING PTE LTD (Co. Reg. No.: 200413351W) A fully-owned subsidiary of Eastern Holdings Ltd
EASTERN HOLDINGS LTD Executive Board Chairman Stephen Tay Group Executive Director Kenneth Tan Financial Controller Robbin Lim Head Office Eastern Holdings Ltd (Co. Reg. No.: 198105390C) EPL Building 1100 Lower Delta Road #04-01 Singapore 169206 Tel: (65) 6379 2888 Fax: (65) 6379 2803 E-mail: eastern@singnet.com.sg or FrequentTraveller@epl.com.sg Hong Kong Office: 28/F Soundwill Plaza 38 Russell Street Causeway Bay Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2575 8488 Fax: (852) 2836 5829 MICA (P) No. 231/06/2009 • ISSN: 0219-2071 • PPS 1221/10/2010 (028276)
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remember a time when travelling was all about excitement, not worries
travel gear business bags laptop bags
The Planet Traveller opens its 3rd store at Ion Orchard with the largest collection of travel accessories in the world. The travel and business gear sections include premium brands BREE, Briggs & Riley, Eagle Creek, Giorgio Fedon, Hartmann, Mandarina Duck, Sunco and Victorinox. A new addition to the Ion Orchard store is the travel gift section which includes brands Giorgio Fedon, MoMA (The Museum of Modern Art), Rubis, Mova Globe, Troika and Victorinox Swiss Army Knives.
outdoor wear outdoor packs travel warmies travel books & maps travel appliances travel accessories travel care travel information
Singapore
Ion Orchard 04-19 NEW Marina Square 03-113 Paragon 04-15 Opening hours: 10.30am - 9pm www.theplanettraveller.com
guidelines management
by Louay Habib | photographs courtesy of teamorigin
in it to
WIN IT
Sir Keith Mills, avid yachtsman and successful entrepreneur, on why his two passions—yacht racing and business— feed on each other and the lessons he learned from each Sir Keith MILLS is chiefly known for inventing the Air Miles loyalty card schemes in the United Kingdom. In December 2007, his company was sold for £350 million (M) to the Canadian company Aeroplan, in which he had 46% sharehold, netting £160M. In September 2003, he became chief executive of the London 2012 campaign, which was successful in its bid to host the Olympic Games in 2012. He is now joint Deputy Chairman of the London Organising Committee for the Olympic Games. He was knighted in the 2006 British New Year Honours in recognition of his services to sport. Sir Keith’s big sporting passion is yacht racing; in 1999, he was part of a team skippered by Alex Thomson that won the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race and he founded Team Origin in 2007, the British challenge for the oldest sporting trophy in the world, The America’s Cup. This year, Sir Keith Mills was back on board with Alex Thomson competing in the famous Rolex Fastnet Race, on board the carbon-fibre racing machine, Hugo Boss. He sounds off with Frequent Traveller on both his passions and the lessons he got from each— philosophies, which, he swears by, both in sport and in business.
Lay the groundwork and have a goal. “Preparation is important with
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every venture, and certainly it’s important in sport—in sailing, without question. If you have no clear idea of where you are trying to get to, then navigation becomes impossible. In the case of a yacht race, if you don’t have a very, very clear game plan, then you’re not likely to succeed. If you’re going into a new business venture, and you don’t have a very clear idea of what the ultimate goal is, and a navigation plan to show you how you’re going to get there, you’re going to fail. I’m involved in the Olympics. It’s a lot for one country to organise, so if you’re not very, very clear about how you’re going to deliver it, you’ll fail. I think it’s true of any project, big or small. Unless the project is clear and planned, and you’re ruthless about what exactly it is you’re trying to accomplish, and how you’re going to do it, you’ll fail.” You know if you look at businesses and sports teams that have failed, they simply did not have a clear plan of action that maps out exactly how they’re going to achieve their objective.”
you need: Lightningquick decision-making skills, a cool head, and lots of input “There are unforeseen circumstances in yachting and in business; you can damage your sails or the weather can change dramatically. It’s how you deal with these difficulties that separates the winners from the losers.
In my world it is very easy to make panicky or hasty decisions. Sometimes you have to absolutely make a quick decision, because the opportunity could go, or the boat capsize. But thinking through the problem, whatever it happens to be, and getting as much input on the problem as possible is very valuable. So when I’ve got a business problem, I usually talk to as many people that I trust, to help solve it. So what you’re trying to do, is factor out risk, and whatever you do, in business or on a boat, or in an America’s Cup team, has an element of risk.”
Have good people. “I always build my businesses and teams around really good people. When there’s a problem, I use those really good people to help figure out the best solution. I look at core values that are important—honesty and hard work. If people haven’t got those core values, then I don’t want to work with them. Over and above those sorts of core values, I look for people who are better than me. I’m not a very smart guy, but I’m smart enough to know that and to try and surround myself with people that are really smart. My job is to help them work together to be the best at what they do. That’s pretty much all I do; just try and find good people and try and help them deliver on whatever they’re doing.”
Never back away from a challenge. I’m an extremely competitive individual and very motivated by challenges—whether they are business challenges like supporting a new business or buying a new business, or a sporting challenge. I thought running the Olympic bid was an irresistible challenge, as we haven’t hosted the Olympic
Games for generations, so I thought it would be good to try and win the bid against eight other countries. It would be an amazing project to try and lead. When I was doing the round the world race, I was reading a book about Sir Thomas Lipton, who tried to win the America’s Cup for over 30 years. I couldn’t really understand why he failed! Given Britain’s incredible strength in sailing, why was it that we have never won it as a country? It’s the only one we have started, but never won. Why is it that we have never been successful? The more I thought about it, the more I found it an irresistible challenge. So once I’d won the Olympic bid, and set up the Olympic Organisation, winning the America’s Cup became my challenge. I watched the 2007 America’s cup in Valencia, which I thought was terrific, and started to pull my team together before the competition finished! Britain has a fantastic crop of sailors, and we have had for the last 30 years. I’ve made a lot of money and I am, a wealthy individual, and my business has made me a lot of money. And once you’ve made a lot of money, you start looking for other challenges that’s why getting involved with the Alex Thomson’s Hugo Boss, and establishing Team Origin, was just as much a challenge as providing for the Olympic Games in 2012. And that’s the sort of challenges now a-days I get excited and motivated about. I decided to compete in the Rolex Fastnet race because it is a challenge, simple as that. It will be a hard few days at sea but with Alex Thompson skippering, who has put together a fantastic team, we are going to have a great race and we are in it to win it.
guidelines hospitality text by Jamie Nonis | Photography by Mövenpick Hotels & Resorts, Gavin Gough for Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (portrait)
SWISS STANDARD
THE
In the world of hospitality, the Swiss reigns supreme with Switzerland being the training ground for some of the best hoteliers in the world. Thus, it’s no surprise that impeccable service is a value embedded in the DNA of Swiss hotel chain Mövenpick. What’s amazing, though, is the way the company manages to deliver a consistently high level of service in whichever country in the world it operates in. Step through the doors of Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi and you will be struck by how different it looks from any other hotel in
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the Mövenpick portfolio. Even though it targets corporate travellers, the year-old hotel flaunts a fabulously fashionable design concept, thanks in part to general manager Knuth Kiefer’s keen interest in interior design. Rich colours, textured fabrics and intriguing artwork conspire with elegant furnishings to create a chic living space guests will certainly appreciate. In fact, so stylish are the interiors that they can even often be spotted in Vietnam’s top fashion glossies. But while the hotel chain may eschew the “cookie-cutter” approach when it comes to
The Mövenpick brand is renowned for its signature Swiss hospitality and superb service. We touched base with Knuth Kiefer, General Manager of Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi about the challenge of consistently delivering on the company’s brand promises in every corner of the world design, what you can always expect at ever y Mövenpick hotel around the globe is to be lavished with a high level of attentive and personalised service that has come to be the chain’s signature. Where does Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi fit into the hospitality sector of the city? Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi offers something different from the other hotels in the market. Our hotel has a more residential feel and lacks the large lobby most other hotels feature. This, however, enables us to take care
of our guests more individually. You won’t just be a number—you will be recognised when you walk through the door. We are certainly a five-star hotel that offers guests what they expect from a hotel of our calibre. The reviews and comments of our guests were overwhelmingly positive and that, for me, is the only important measurement for any hotel. In what ways is Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi different from the other properties in the Mövenpick family? The Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi
Special Advertising Section
Contemporary Classic Step into Berjaya Times Square Hotel Kuala Lumpur whose seamless elegance is a match to the city’s energetic pace The bustling sights and sounds of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia never fails to charm travellers—whether a first-timer to the city or a frequent visitor. A city that’s a blend of high technology, stunning modern architecture, and historic landmarks, Kuala Lumpur is impressive, offering visitors an eclectic mix of old and new, modern and historic, cutting-edge conveniences and charming grace notes of the past. It is a delightful example of Malaysia’s diversity and modernity. Towering over the city skyline is Berjaya Times Square Hotel Kuala Lumpur with its 650 rooms and suites, the epitome of a graceful hotel that brings new meaning to the term, “urban living.” Creature Comforts Taking some style pointers from New York City, Berjaya Times Square Hotel’s contemporary elegance is reflected in its rooms and suites, which range from a Studio Room to the spacious Brooklyn Suite. The accommodation is tastefully furnished along contemporary designs. Each room features a living area, a spacious ensuite bathroom with separate shower, long bath and comes equipped with a 29-inch colour television, mini stereo with CD/VCD functions, mini refrigerator, coffee/tea making facilities, IDD telephone line, individually controlled air-conditioning, wireless Internet access, laptop size in-room safe (in selected rooms), hair dryer, cable channels (in selected rooms), sofa bed (in selected rooms) and iron/ironing board (upon request). For the business traveller, the hotel has 110 new corporate rooms and suites in five corporate floors. These rooms and suites feature a new sleek design and come with privileges such as private check-in, a dedicated breakfast venue and special corporate club benefits. Business Matters We know how important business is to our guests so we made sure our meeting facilities are topnotch. Easily accessible by monorail and other means of transportation, Berjaya Times Square is the ideal venue for
conference and banquet functions. The pillarless 1,746 square-metre Manhattan ballroom can easily accommodate 2,000 persons for a cocktail reception and 1,400 persons for a sit-down banquet dinner. Together with eight function rooms equipped with modern audio-visual facilities, the hotel offers innovative solutions for business needs. Wine and Dine The hotel has three F&B outlets that serve a variety of cuisines. Big Apple Restaurant is a coffeehouse that overlooks the Kuala Lumpur skyline and serves Western, local and other Asian cuisines. For breakfast or a quick sandwich, head to 7th Avenue, which is ideal for the busy businessman. After a day’s work, have a cocktail and listen to a live band at Broadway Lounge. Downtime Need to relax? Head to Central Park on Level 15, which has a children’s playground, swimming pool, steam and sauna room, fitness centre and two squash courts for some exercise. For some much-needed body pampering, Jojoba Spa has treatments from head to toe for you to choose from. Shopping is also very convenient since the hotel adjoins Berjaya Times Square Shopping Complex with its 14 major thrill rides in Cosmo’s World indoor theme park, 900 shopping outlets, 2D and 3D movie experience at IMAX theatres, nine cinemas, and a host of food and beverage outlets. What’s more, it’s easy to get to other parts of the city as the “Imbi” monorail station is located right next to the hotel, 15 minutes from KLCC. A Convenient Location Whether you’re in KL on business or just in town to see the sights, Berjaya Times Square Hotel Kuala Lumpur is the perfect choice to stay in. It’s chic, convenient, and contemporary, very much like Kuala Lumpur.
BERJAYA TIMES SQUARE HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR 1 Jalan Imbi, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaTel +60 (3) 2117 8000; Fax +60 (3) 2143 3352; email btshcc@btimessquarekl.com.my; for reservations, email reservation@btimessquarekl.com.my; www.berjayahotels-resorts.com
some innovative and attractive ideas together.
is unique in the sense that it is more of a boutique style hotel. Depending of their location, many of the hotels in our portfolio differ from another but in Hanoi, we do stand out with this boutique-style property. How does the hotel incorporate local Vietnamese culture and elements into its design and guest experience? We have incorporated many local touches in our hotel that give guests a sense of place. From the Vietnamese lacquerware trays and boxes in the guest rooms to the traditional birdcages that actually serve as platform for our flower arrangements i n t he hotel, g uest s w i l l notice the Vietnamese feel we have incorporated without trying to be overwhelming.
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N a t u r a l l y, s o m e o f o u r uniforms reflect traditional Vietnamese styles and enhance this concept further. Tell us about the hotel’s extremely stylish interiors. We have created quite a following amongst the local art and fashion crowd. Open any high gloss magazine in Vietnam and chances are you will see Vietnam’s top fashion models either staying at, or shooting here at the hotel for various international fashion brands. We worked together with LEO design based out of Bangkok for the basic design concept. As interior design is somewhat of a personal interest to me, I have to admit that I have changed the initial concept quite a bit and I trust we came up with
What kind of experience can affluent guests enjoy when they choose to stay here? This hotel doesn’t have a presidential suite; we’ve opted to do away with that. Rather, we have a number of smaller suites that are ideal for corporate executives or honeymoon couples. The suites feature a large walk-in closet as well as a Jacuzzi and have a separate living and sleeping area. We had some famous people staying with us already, but the confidentiality and privacy of our customers is of top importance for us so I can’t reveal names. We have also signed special agreements with some exclusive golf clubs in the area like Hanoi Golf Club, Kings’ Island Golf and Van Tri Golf Club in order to enable our guests to experience those facilities while staying with us. We also work in close partnership with the best cruise ship operators in Halong Bay and offer great packages that include a stay onboard some of the finest
cruise ships there. How about any bespoke experiences guests can indulge in at the hotel, if money were no object? Hanoi does have limitations with regard to any out-of-theordinary experiences it has to offer. Having said this, we certainly will try to make the seemingly impossible possible, if it is within reason. What are the brand values of Mövenpick and how does the group ensure that these are communicated consistently across all your properties around the world? Our values are defined in part by our Swiss heritage. We are proud to be a company with Swiss origins and this is reflected in our approach, in our food and beverage offerings in particular. Our menus as well as buffets offer a variety of traditional Swiss items like potato rösti or veal Zurichoise. At breakfast, you will always find Bircher muesli, another Swiss staple that is an integral part of Swiss culinary standards.
We have a vast amount of standards in the company that are carried through each property without becoming a “cookie-cutter” chain, where one hotel feels exactly like the next. We are conscious of the individual destination of each individual property and we adopt our standards accordingly. The Mövenpick brand is known for its impeccable service and signature Swiss hospitality. What is the key to Mövenpick’s success in being able to deliver such a high standard of service on a consistent basis? In all honesty, hospitality is no rocket science. If you pick the right people with the right attitude to take care of your guests, you will naturally succeed in delivering service. Skills can be taught, but to ensure one consistently delivers service at the highest level comes down to every single individual in the team having passion for their work. Running a hotel, there’s bound to be some challenges in maintaining the high standards your brand requires. What are some of the challenges that you face? The single most important factor here in Hanoi is the low level of English, even amongst the younger generation. Communication is key when providing ser vice. If you can’t speak confidently to a guest, any attempt to provide first class ser vice will fail. Therefore, it is important to continuously provide our employees with opportunities to enhance their English skills and we do this by providing English classes as well as hands on role-play training. How have your occupancy rates been affected in the economic downturn? Like every hotel in the market,
occupancy and average rates certainly have been lower than one may wished for. However, being in the first year of operation, building the business and firmly establishing the hotel and its brand in the market have been top priorities for us. In this regard, we have done very well and we look to the future with a lot of optimism. What sort of unique strategies have you rolled out in order to lure more guests in? I don’t believe that “unique strategies” will make a hotel successful in the long run. Sure, some creative promotions and sales strategies will create awareness and get the attention of some customers but what makes any hotel successful is consistency in service delivery. Hanoi celebrates its 1,000th year anniversary next year. Does the hotel have any special plans to commemorate or celebrate this occasion? We certainly are excited about the upcoming anniversar y celebrations in the city. Naturally, this will create a lot of interest in the destination and we will certainly do our part in promoting Hanoi as an interesting and unique place to visit with attractive packages and promotions. What other plans have you got in store for Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi in the coming year? It is essential for a boutique hotel like ours to always remain fresh and interesting. We a l w ay s work on ne w concepts and ideas for the hotel so guests that come back to us will see small differences every time. We have established ourselves well in the Hanoi hotel market and people will be curious about anything we may come up with in the future.
guidelines airlines
by michele koh and TEÀ VILLAMOR | photographs courtesy of cathay pacific, emirates, klm royal dutch airways, qatar airways, singapore airlines, virgin atlantic
now that’s
AIRNTERTAINMENT! Travellers who regularly take long-haul flights know that an airline’s inflight entertainment system can spell the difference between mindnumbing boredom and an enjoyable trip
Thirteen to 24 hours wedged in an airplane seat can make even the most serene souls cranky, restless, and claustrophobic. Thankfully airlines have been constantly upg r ad ing t hei r in f l ight entertainment (IFE) systems, with some carriers offering Wi-Fi, USB ports, language and business software programs and mobile phones. In 1962, Pam Am was the first airline to have a TV monitor on its flight. In 1963, pneumatic headsets were used on a Trans World Airline flight, and in 1975, Braniff International Airways introduced the first Atari video game to its carriers. Since then, IFEs have come a long way and many systems on First and Business Class cabins are packed with gizmos and mod cons that you won’t find anywhere else except in the air. Airline companies pay millions of dollars for the latest technology and gadgetry, so manufacturers like Rockwell Collins, Thales Group and Panasonics Avionics Corporation
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are compelled to keep improving on these systems. However, as airlines offer more and more advanced IFEs, more and more passengers are turning to their own hardware and software to get them through a long trip. After all, gadgets such as the iPod and its various permutations, as well as other portable music players, smartphones like the iPhones, and even laptops have gotten more compact yet more sophisticated, so it’s possible for consumers to tote around libraries-full of music and ebooks, as well as videos and movies in their gadgets, rendering IFEs obsolete. “I bring along several audiobooks, my laptop, and iPod when I travel, so I don’t really rely too much on what’s being shown inflight,” says Isabelle Ramos, who frequently travels around the world in her job for the WWF. “Besides, most of the time, I spend the trip either catching up on paperwork or reading.” Isabelle is not alone, by far. Changing consumer behaviour coupled by airlines’
moves to unbundle services like food, pillows, and blankets from the cost of the plane fare, may mean that the next time you use an airline’s inflight system, you might have to pay for it. In fact, this may be starting. By end of this year, for example, US planes flying the domestic routes will have Wi-Fi onboard, something that used to be seen only in international flights. By the end of next year, that number is likely to double, implying that Wi-Fi may be a new standard in domestic flights. While there is still no data to support if consumers will be willing to pay extra for connectivity, the fact that it’s there means that the whole Wo r l d W i d e We b — f r o m updating your Facebook status and Twitter feeds, to checking email, to watching YouTube, and answering email—may be viable alternatives to watching the inflight movie. Right now, airlines who offer this, are trying to lure business travellers to take advantage of the service. Virgin Atlantic and Delta Airlines are
two that have instituted a pricing scheme for the service, which include Wi-Fi for hand-held devices as well. However, bringing a lot of gadgets is not ideal for the passenger—especially in cramped economy class. There’s not a lot of space for laptops, for one. And while an inflight movie screen may be small, it’s a lot bigger than the screens on your iPod or smartphone. Meanwhile, over at the front of the plane, in the Business and First Class sections, the choices in inflight entertainment has gotten better. With enough imagination, the sheer variety of films, games, music and applications available can transform that tedious, restless leg syndrome-inducing flight into a simulated experience of the cinema, CD shop, game arcade, library or classroom. Before you know it, you will have arrived at your destination. We take a peek at what IFE options airlines are offering on their Business and First Class passengers today.
EMIRATES Sight & Sound: Emirates’ Information, Communication, Entertainment (ICE) system has been winning the Skytrax award for best In-Flight Entertainment since its inception, and this year was no exception. It features widescreen TVs measuring 23” in First Class and 17” in Business Class offering more radio, TV and movies channels than any other IFE system. It also comes with a wireless handset controller with 7” touch screen interface for selecting entertainment options. Noise cancelling headphones of reasonable quality are also compatible with most hearing aids when switched to “T” mode.
flight home, and My Playlist for passengers to create their own compilation from the nearly 10,000 tracks of music available. Emirates is the first airline to have an “open” system that supports access to regular BBC News updates, email, SMS, video and
audio streaming and gaming. Seat-to-seat communications and multi-player gaming are also available. There is also an email server that passengers can use for US$1 per message, an in-seat telephone and mobile phone connectivity.
Connectivity: Features i nc lude My US B , w h ich allows passengers to view their photos onscreen during the
Applications: The ICEs c o m e w it h m o v i n g - m a p s of t w a re f rom R o ck wel l Collins. This application allows passengers a view of takeoff and landing on their IFE through exterior cameras located on the aircraft.
Emirates’ ICE system has been touted one of the best IFEs in the world
Hotel Night View
RMB
898 up
SINGAPORE AIRLINES Sight & Sound: Business Class enjoys Krisworld movies, TV programmes, AudioVisual On Demand, games and applications on a 15.4” personal widescreen LCD. First Class passengers have an even larger 23” screen. Active Noise Cancelling headphones cut out all background noise using a revolutionary microcircuitry phase-reversed technology to detect and neutralise unwanted noise. Connectivity: There is a centralised, all-in-one Business Panel at the side of the seat with two USB ports so passengers can listen to their own music, view their photos or read their PDF files. Audio-video input, which allows passengers to plug in their own media players, and in-seat 110V laptop power is handy for those who need
to work onboard. An iPod port is also available, and Singapore Airlines is the first airline in the world to offer iPod and iPhone connectivity. Personal in-seat telephone enable phone calls to be made to virtually anywhere in the world via a global satellite network. A ppl ications: L i ke many of the other airlines, Singapore Airlines offers software applications that are clearly geared toward business travellers. These include Berlitz World Traveller which teaches you a new language, bWise (Business Wisdom Worldwide) a cross-cultural information application that gives give cultural tips and how to do business in 10 countries worldwide and S ou nd V ie w E xe c ut i ve Summaries, a business book library.
VIRGIN ATLANTIC AIRWAYS Sight & Sound: Upper Class cabins come with a multi-directional 10.4” TV screen with a huge selection of films, TV programmes, and games. You can even order food using your screen. Some f lights come with a Quick Find facility that allows passengers to look for films starring their favourite movie star, comedy shows or language programming. Noise cancelling headsets allow you to enjoy music chosen from 3,000 mp3s and 20 streaming radio channels. Connectivity: On Virgin A merica aircraft, ever y Upper Class suite comes with laptop power access. Since May 2009, Virgin America
CATHAY PACIFIC
Connectivity: In-f light laptop power with 15 volt DC or 110 volt power output
enable passengers to work onboard. Electronic devices l i ke laptop s , PDA s , a nd CD-ROM players can be used 15 minutes after take off, but there is no coverage for mobile phones. Inflight phone usage is available for US$8.80 per minute. Applications: More than 70 interactive games.
A pplications: Pitch TV, an exclusive Richard Branson application allows entrepreneurial passengers to research and pitch their business ideas by uploading their videos that will be v iewed by a n online community. Change the World at 35,000 Ft is a oneoff publication that will h e l p h e i g ht e n s o c i a l consciousness and offer practical ideas to make a world a better place.
Virgin Atlantic has PitchTV, allowing entrepreneurial passengers to upload videos of their business ideas to be viewed online
Singapore Airlines has software applications geared toward business travellers— from language tutorials to business books
Sight & Sound: Personal 10.4” screens are available on Business and First class flights. On B474-400 aircrafts, the screens on First Class have been upgraded to 17 inches. AudioVideo Demand is available on their StudioCX system with noise cancelling headphones.
has been equipped with Gogo Wi-Fi. Pricing structure is US$12.95 for flights over three hours, US$9.95 for flights under three hours, US $7.95 for ha nd held devices. In addition, all seats have a 110V power outlet, Ethernet, and USB plugs.
Cathay Pacific has big screens in First Class
QATAR AIRWAYS Sight & Sound: Passengers can choose their entertainment options either through touch screen seat back TV monitors or using handsets installed in each seat. Their latest Oryx Entertainment service—dubbed the Multiplex In The Sky—uses the Panasonic eX2 technology and features 150 extra films, 150 hours of television shows, about 500 music CDs and more than 50 games. It also come with a unique onscreen graphic user interface that lets passengers navigate in one of eight languages. Connectivity: Some flights are equipped with satellite TV for live news feeds, as well as USB ports and laptop power supply. The past month, the airline introduced Mobile OnAir in-f light passenger
communication services that allow passengers to connect to the Internet and use their mobile phone and Blackberries to send and receive emails and text messages. Applications: Qatar Airways has as entertainment section called Discover More that features short, fun, “How To” trivia guides so passengers can learn practical tips like tie a bow tie, how to remember people’s names, how to perform the perfect golf swing, or even how to cut a mango! Berlitz and Executive Book Summaries are also available, as well as more than 50 interactive games. KLM’s About Your Flight programme helps passengers get over their nervousness while flying
KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES Sight & Sound: The World Business Class seats come with 10.4” screens, handheld control units and noise canceling headset. What’s unique about KLM are their audio books that will encourage you to curl up and “read” a mystery novel or Eric Clapton’s autobiography without straining your neck or eyes. Connectivity: In- seat
telephones and power supply and texting and email functions are available to passengers. Applications: Passengers interested in the more technical aspects of aircrafts and air travel can use KLM’s exclusive About Your Flight program. This programme helps passengers with the fear of flying get over their phobia and includes topics like aerodynamics, take-off and landing procedures and turbulence.
guidelines technology
by michele koh | photographs courtesy of don hankins, psyberartist
CRISIS The theft of your personal information could mean a big hole in your pocket, much lost time, and may even ruin your reputation
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Don Henkins
IDENTITY
What Is ID Theft? Identity theft occurs when someone uses your personal information, like your name, credit card number, financial account information or identification card number without your permission to commit fraud or other crimes. By getting hold of your identity, either through your mail and cards or from a computer database and
www.flicker.com/photos/psyberartist
An American conman, Albert Gonzalez from Florida recently pleaded guilty to the largest and most complex case of identity theft. Gonzales had hacked into computers and stole more that 40 million credit and debit card numbers from American retailers and sold them for fraudulent use. He and his co-conspirators also stole thousands of dollars from automated teller machines (ATM) by encoding their victim’s data on the magnetic strips of blank cards. With increased technology comes the rise of a white-collar crime unique to our information age: Identification theft. The US Federal Trade Commission estimates that as many as nine million Americans have their identities stolen each year. The United Kingdom’s fraud prevention service, CIFAS reports that ID theft has risen over five-fold from 20,000 cases in 1999 to 137,000 in 2005, with UK credit card companies losing close to £2 billion (B) to this crime. “Technology has forever changed the way we do business, virtually erasing geographic boundaries,” said Mark Sullivan, US Secret Ser vice director. “However, this case demonstrates that even in the cyber world, there is no such thing as anonymity.” “Cybercriminals are evolving with the times,” said Raimund Gaines, chief technology officer of Trend Micro Incorporated, one of the leading companies in Internet content security, in the company’s forecast report last year. While old scams are still being used, the latest trend seems to be using tools and technologies employed in popular social networking sites, which have become landmines for cybercrimes. The advances in technology means that cybercriminals are also early adapters. High-profile websites and the more affluent, like high-level executives in positions of power are targetted, in order to gain access to larger bank acounts, login credentials, even email addresses that span whole organisations.
impersonating you, criminals can then open bank accounts, get credit card loans and open credit lines under your name. They might also able to obtain documents like driver’s licenses or passports, establish a telephone account, pay their bills or rent an apartment under your name. Chances are you won’t know they are stealing from you until you review your credit report or credit card statement and notice delinquent charges. Or until you are contacted by a debt collector. The repercussions of ID theft are serious. While some victims are lucky enough to resolve the misappropriation quickly, others end up spending hundreds of dollars and much time attempting to repair their reputation and credit rating. Some victims find that obtaining bank loans and mortgages becomes more difficult than usual as they may be blacklisted by some companies. Others find that they are denied loans for education, housing or cars because of negative information on their credit reports. Future employment prospects could also be hampered as it can take months or even years to correct information after identity theft has occurred. In rare cases, victims have been arrested for crimes they did not commit.
Ironically, today’s high level of technology may lull us into a false sense of security, given the many identification cards (above) we have, and numerous passwords and Internet acounts (left) we access to do our daily transactions
Modus Operandi According to Gonzalez, he and his coconspirators broke into the retail credit card payment systems via a technique known as “wardriving” which involves driving around in a car with a laptop computer looking for the accessible wireless networks of retailers. In this age of Wi-Fi, this is no longer such a high-level and intricate technique, although it’s not as prevalent as some of these methods thieves use to steal your personal information: Dumpster Diving Rummaging through garbage to look for bills or other papers with your personal information on it. Prevent this by shredding personal letters and bank statements. Skimming Stealing your credit or debit card numbers using a special storage device when processing your card. To avoid this, be careful and think twice before handing your credit card to retailers or reservation desks for verification. Be vigilant when paying for purchases using your card. If you are not
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How To Protect Yourself Always monitor your accounts and bank statements each month, and check your credit card statement on a regular basis. If you do this regularly, you may be able to limit the damage caused by identity theft. Take note of when your financial and billing statements should be arriving. If they don’t arrive, inform the organisation concerned. Always take particular care of your wallet and bag— especially crucial when travelling. Try not to keep all your credit cards together or have them all with you at the same time. Also, avoid carrying documents such as passports unless necessary and don’t keep it together with your wallet. Keep a secure list of all your credit cards, along with account details in a separate list, so you can notify card issuers quickly in the event that they are lost or stolen. Sign up with a card protection scheme—for a small fee you can register all your bank and credit cards with the scheme. In the event your cards are lost or stolen, they will contact the card suppliers on your behalf. Shred all documents when you dispose of them. Including letters from doctors, employers, or anything with your full name and address or signature on it. Receipts can also be valuable to a fraudster, so shred these too. Do not leave personal documents in your vehicle. Redirect ALL post promptly when moving house or business address. If you plan to be away for some time, inform your bank and other relevant organisations. Make sure mail sent to your address is dealt with securely. Report theft or loss of documents such as your driving license or passport to the police immediately. Use the most up-to-date version of your Internet browser. Check that the security settings and browser preferences are at an optimum level. Consider encrypting any sensitive information you keep on a PC or laptop—many well-known software companies offer free downloads to help you with encryption.
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If you use wireless connections (such as Wi-Fi or Bluetooth), avoid connecting to non-secure access points, especially in public places. If you do, be wary of sending your personal details. Always use a password or number to protect your wireless device. If you use Internet banking, use a secure computer. Communal computers may not be as secure as you think. Don’t make online purchases in public Wi-fi zones or Internet cafes. Don’t store your personal information in your mobile phone, organiser, laptop computer, or PDA. It may be compromised if stolen. Files in your computer can still be accessed even after you’ve deleted them. Consider getting a clean-up utility to overwrite deleted files. When asked for confidential information, always ask yourself these questions: “Who precisely is asking for the details? What details are they asking for? Why do they need these details?” Avoid disclosing or writing down any PIN or passwords, and try to avoid using obvious examples (e.g., dates of birth, mother’s maiden name, etc) Don’t give your personal details to callers, charity collectors or “researchers” on the streets or those who cold call. Check that they are truly who they claim to be before giving them any information. Install password protection, anti-spam and a nti phishing software like MacAfee, Symantec, Norton, Keypad Pro or invisibleSHIELD. Use a “two-factor authentification” token when banking online. If you have been a victim of ID theft, file a police report immediately. Check your credit statements, then notify creditors, and inform them of any unauthorised transactions made under your name.Don’t delay in contacting all companies where the perpetrator opened fraudulent accounts. The longer the inaccurate information goes uncorrected, the longer it will take to resolve the problem, so act quickly.
making a purchase, ask the retail staff why they need to scan your card. Phishing Pretending to be financial institutions or businesses that send spam or pop-up messages on the Internet to get you to reveal your personal information. Prevent this by using only secure websites. Don’t reply to email or pop-up messages that ask for personal or financial information, and don’t click on links in the message. Avoid cutting and pasting a link from the message into your Web browser. Use antivirus and anti-spyware software, as well as a firewall, and update them all regularly. Don’t email personal or financial information. Be cautious when opening any attachment or downloading any files from emails you receive, regardless of who sent them. A new form of phising warns potential victims of phishing emails as a way to legitimise the email and trick victimes into clicking on a link that leads to a fraudulent site. And then there is “voice phising” (or “vhishing”). In this, a seemingly legitimate email is sent, with all links leading to the correct target pages. But buried in the email is a fraudulent number for the recipient to call in order to “activate” their account, which has been supposedly “placed on hold.” Upon calling the number, users are asked for their bank account numbers and PIN, unwittingly giving sensitive info to phishers who then clean out the accounts. Obtaining Your Billing Details Failing to redirect your mail to your new address can mean your private details risk falling into the hands of a total stranger. When you move, fraudsters who find a stack of mail at your doorstep can divert your billing statements to another location by completing a change of address form. Inform companies if you are changing addresses, so your mails do not get sent to your old address where a possible scammer might get hold of it. Review credit card and bank account statements as soon as you receive them to check for unauthorised charges. Graphic designer Rebecca Daniels said, “I move from place to place a lot, so I am very careful about ID theft. I keep all my friends, family and suppliers up to date with changes of address each time.” Old-Fashioned Stealing Stealing wallets and purses, mail, including bank and credit card statements; pre-approved credit offers and new checks or tax information. Leaving your private details lying around at the office
Technology has forever changed the way we do business, virtually erasing geographic boundaries—in the cyber world, there is no such thing as anonymity or other public places is another way of having your identity stolen. Always be sure to keep your personal belongings, such as ATM and credit cards, library cards, ID, passport and driving license in a secure place. Pretexting Using false pretenses to obtain your personal information from financial institutions, telephone companies, and other sources. For instance, the thief may call, claim he’s from a research firm, and ask you for your name, address, birth date, and social security number. When the he has the information he wants, he uses it to call your bank. He pretends to be you or someone with authorised access to your account, then he claims that he’s forgotten his checkbook and needs information about
his account. In this way, the pretexter might be able to obtain other personal information about you such as your bank and credit card account numbers, information in your credit report, and the existence and size of your savings and investment portfolios.
Sucking You Dry Once a fraudster gets hold of your personal information, they use it for financial gain in the following ways: Credit card fraud They may open new credit card accounts in your name. When they use the cards and don’t pay the bills, the delinquent accounts appear on your credit report. By changing the billing address on your credit card account, they ensure that
you no longer receive your bills, so they can run up charges on your account. Because you are not getting your statements, it may be some time before you realise there’s a problem. Phone or utilities fraud They may open a new phone or Internet account in your name, or run up charges on your existing account. They may also use your name to get utility services like electricity, heating, or cable TV. Bank and finance fraud They may create counterfeit checks using your name or account number, open a bank account in your name and write bad checks, clone your ATM or debit card and make electronic withdrawals your name, or take out a loan in your name. The impact of ID theft can leave you in financial distress, as consultant Matt Balontekin discovered when he fell victim. “Someone spent $1,000 at shops in Heathrow Airport in my name. Luckily it didn’t take me long to realise. After a long process of trying to prove that my ID was stolen, I got my money back. I’m extra careful now.”
Over 650 superbly appointed guestrooms, twelve fine dining outlets featuring worldwide cuisines and a special touch of Asian Hospitality promise that Hotel Kunlun is the ideal home away from home for business and leisure travelers alike.
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corphub australia
text by Kathy Khoo | Photography by LINCOLN FOWLER, HUGH HAMILTON, CAMILLE NUTTALL, AND PETER SHORE FOR TOURISM AUSTRALIA
AN
UPWARD FOR COURSE
DOWNUNDER
Unlike major developed nations, Australia has weathered the economic downturn fairly well
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Since 2003, business sentiment has been at a six-year high, according to a National Australia Bank survey of business confidence and conditions. Despite the global economic downturn, the Australian economy has proven to be more resilient than expected. In the first half of 2009, instead of contracting like other developed economies, Australia recorded an economic growth of 0.4% in the first quarter and defied expectations in the second quarter to accelerate to 0.6% gross domestic product (GDP). (It’s actually the only developed nation to grow in the first half of 2009.) This was supported by consumer spending and business investment—due to opportunities in strong and diverse local markets—that appeared to be the main drivers for growth to offset exports which continued
to be weak due to the global recession. Nevertheless, exports did show signs of improvement in the three months ending July 2009, as the global slump eased and the world’s stimulus packages helped world demand stabilise somewhat. Exports edged up by 1% in the second quarter to add to improved GDP figures. This was backed by the federal government’s cash handouts which was as much as A$12 billion (B). Taking into account all indicators of economic activity, the Australian economy was one of the few major economies that managed to avoid a technical recession. Until mid-October, the Reserve Bank of Australia (RBA) has kept interest rates at a 49year low of 3%, which has helped boost demand for home loans and has contributed to the surge in economic confidence. As we were going to press, the Australian Treasurer raised interest rates in a surprise move, while the Australian dollar continues to strengthen. The forecast is for the Australian dollar to trend upward into 2010 with possible parity with the US dollar as the greenback continues to weaken into the next year.
Sectoral Situation While many did not see the move to increase interest rates coming, improving economic conditions may have been the impetus for monetar y policymakers to raise interest rates, saying it was safe to ease up on the stimulus now that the worst danger for the economy has passed. Because of this the Australian dollar jumped to a 14-month high in early October and interbank futures eased as investors rushed to price at least one more hike by Christmas, and rates above 4% in a year. RBA was the first in a group of 20 central banks to increase rates as the financial crisis loosened its grip, a development
that is in itself a surprise to many analysts who have pegged the crisis to continue to yearend and possibly next year. As stated in www.indiatimes. com, “this policy is still very accommodative in Australia” as RBA Governor Glenn Stevens says in his post-meeting statement, according to the website. “With growth likely to be close to trend over the year ahead, inflation close to target, and the risk of serious economic contraction in Australia now having passed, the board’s view is that it is now prudent to begin gradually lessening the stimulus provided by monetary policy,” he has stated. The RBA’s move is indicative of the strength of the Australian economy, which has a sound banking system and a strong demand from China for commodity exports. That the country’s economy is basically robust may be the main reason why its monetary policymakers are not that worried about the possible negative feedback the rise in interest rates is sure to get. RBA Gover nor Glenn Stevens said that the housing sector showed clear signs of recovery in the past few months as house prices jumped 4.2% in the second quarter compared with a decline in the previous three months. However, they are watching the property market closely as house prices have started to climb in recent months. Unemployment rates for July-August 2009 came in at 5.8% and showed signs of a stabilising job market. This was helped by government spending of A$22B to improve infrastructure and provide new job opportunities. As inflation continues to ease and world demand improves, this should lead to an increase in energy and raw material prices. Commodity prices remain
strong and increased earnings from this sector was just under A$160B from mineral exports for financial year 2008-09. Chinese demand is critical in maintaining the momentum but forecasts predict China imports should slow next year. Along with commodities, the two other largest services export sectors that contribute to the Australian GDP are education and tourism. Migrant intake should pick up where it left off, now that the crisis has eased. The government recognises that foreign migration inflows do have an impact and help stimulate the economy. An option is to encourage international students who can be considered an intellectual resource, to remain in Australia after graduation. Currently, about 60% of them return to their home countries after studies compared to half of them in the United States, who stay on. They remain a fee revenue source that could be tapped as contributing intellectual capital. Global economic factors have impacted travel worldwide but Australia’s moderate decline in visitor numbers is also cause for optimism. In fact in certain country markets, figures are up and indications are the trend is for inbound visitors to stay longer and spend more. At the Australian Tourism Exchange trade show this year, where travel wholesalers from around the world congregated, Geoff Buckley, the Managing Director of Tourism Australia announced that “…there is still a lot of interest in our country as a holiday destination and in fact more than eighty new companies were interested in selling Australia holidays” in a toughening travel market. This is coupled with Australia’s aggressive tourism marketing overseas. The government has been www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |
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promoting Australia as a financial services hub and has put into place many government and industr y joint initiatives to identify artificial barriers to competitiveness and work toward eliminating them. The challenges include protectionism of markets, high labour and other costs, and strong labour laws and unions. This may be countered somewhat by the reputation of its skilled and quality workforce. The big four major Australian banks are among just 11 AA rated banks left in the world after the financial crisis and stronger-than-expected reported earnings by companies beat analysts forecasts. The stock 22 |
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market has bounced back and banks show signs of rehiring. Despite this robustness, these conditions have not translated into attracting significant signs of overseas money to be invested or managed in Australia. However, there is good news here, too. Due to regulation, good governance, and the sound risk management skills of corporate Australia, the country remains a safe haven that should see investment inflows increase. Although not immune to the financial downturn, Australia has fared better than most.
What to expect Finally, the overall outlook is one of cautious optimism as not
PREVIOUS SPREAD TOP TO BOTTOM: Scenes of Australia’s vibrant economy. A cafe in Queen Victoria Building, Sydney; businessmen on the way to a meeting with the Sydney skyline as backdrop. THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: Melbourne CBD from Federation Square; a business presentation
only do Australians themselves remain postive but the country itself is blessed with natural resources that ensure farming and agriculture, mining and commodities as well as its proximity to markets (particularly to Asia) and the abundant attractions for visitors will hold
it in good stead in the long term as the world moves toward recovery. RBA is anticipating that economic expansion will accelerate to 2.25% in 2010 and 3.75% in 2011 and that the Australian economy is likely to show further improvements in the second half of 2009.
corphub taiwan
text by Sharmila Rajah | Photography by sean su and Taiwan Tourist Bureau
improvements in both tourism and the economy, because of this radically altered relationship with China, are signs of hope that recovery could well be around the corner.
Taiwan and China For starters, weekly direct flights between Taiwan and the mainland have more than doubled after Taiwan opened tourism to Chinese citizens and eased limitations on Chinese investment in the island’s manufacturing and ser vice
Taiwan TOUGHS IT
OUT
By using diplomacy against its giant neighbour, Taiwan’s president is thawing relations with China for the first time. Here’s hoping this move is the start of a rebuilding process that was stymied by typhoon Morakot and the economic debacle
It’s hard to overstate the changes that have swept Taiwan this year. The Asian tiger’s once unstoppable economy has stalled, typhoon Morakot wreaked havoc, and a political shakeup have all produced much collateral damage in their aftermath. It’s important to note, however, that not all of the changes in the past year have been bad. New president, Ma Ying-jeou has initiated vibrant ties with China—the first effort in 60 years—that could well benefit the island. Modest
THIS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The two faces of Taiwan –– quaint side streets and towering odes to ingenuity
companies. As a result of this, China has relaxed its longstanding opposition against the island. And Taiwan is finally relishing its opportunity to integrate into the world after its recent inclusion as an observer at the World Health Assembly (the governing body of the World Health Organization). These are positive signs. Taiwan lives under the threat of an attack from its neighbour on a daily basis. Beijing treats Taiwan as a wayward province, vowing to invade should the island formally declare independence. The United States is Taiwan’s closest and most protective ally. Tensions between Taipei and Beijing have www.frequenttraveller.com.sg |
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since eased dramatically when in 2008 the pro-independence Democratic Progressive Party was defeated by the more pragmatic pro-Chinese KMT. Ma’s vision amounts to fortifying this new bridge he’s built to the mainland. “…we don’t want to just make money off the Chinese,” Ma has said. “We want to make friends with them. Then there will be less likelihood of war.” He has already done more to close ranks with China than anyone in Taiwan’s brief history.
Politics is Local On the home front, things aren’t as lustrous. Ma’s fairly new government experienced a cabinet reshuffle when its premier Liu Chao-shiuan resigned in September. So far, most of the blame has focused on Ma and his government
for their slow response to the Morakot disaster that left more than 700 people dead or missing when it struck the island in August. Ma’s reputation has since suffered a blow—his previously high approval ratings plunged dramatically to below 20%. Apologies alone won’t do; Ma knows this well. His cabinet has allotted US$3 billion (B) for reconstruction work. Taiwan’s army has been ordered to refocus its priorities toward handling national disasters. They’ve cancelled their orders for American military helicopters and will instead buy disastersrelief helicopters. Four military emergency response units are planned for the north, south, east, and west of the country.
Economy Taiwan’s economy was in trouble way before the downturn.
Between 2000 and 2007, Taiwan’s gross domestic product (GDP) grew an average 4.1% a year, tumbling from the average annual rate of 6.5% from 1990 to 1999. Taiwan’s tech- and exportdependent economy has clearly been struggling, shrinking a whopping 31.98% between April and June 2009. The IT and electronics industries have seen exports plunge 28% in the first half of 2009 and many workers have been forced to take unpaid leave. Growth is imperative for an economy to thrive. Ma’s government has acknowledged this by stepping in and slashing interest rates, raising fiscal spending in order to spur growth. They doled out US$2.6B in spending vouchers (about US$100 a person) to boost domestic consumption. The worry grew with Morakot.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Despite their government’s friendly overtures to China, locals fear getting close to their powerful neighbour; breathtaking views and delicious streetfood are top tourist draws
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The typhoon induced damage in the agricultural, service and tourism sectors and dented the GDP by between 0.6 and 0.7 percentage points in the third quarter. At Kaohsiung Port, the island’s largest container port, there was a delay in inbound and outbound shipments from August to September. Economists remain optimistic, counting on the relief and reconstruction efforts to lift the economy by increasing demand for construction materials, creating more jobs and pushing investment higher. What Taiwan may need is a model based on more regional integration. Policymakers seem to think that strengthening and extending trade links beyond the US and Europe to other merging markets such as India, Russia, and the Middle East will help bolster
According to Taiwan’s Tourism Bureau, some 78,000 Chinese travelled across the straits in July. Some estimate that mainland guests could inject over US$200 million a year into Taiwan’s tourism industry. Morakot may have barely spared Taiwan but the numbers show tourist ar rivals are surprisingly up. There’s also a hike in the number of tourists from Singapore and Malaysia, with the latter posting a 23% increase as a result of the opening of the Taipei-Kuala Lumpur route by budget airline Air Asia. Taipei 101 brought the attention of the world to Taipei and helped to project a sense of modernity to the city the world had yet to discover. Taipei 101 may have since lost its status as the world’s tallest building but people have taken
the economy. Ma’s strategy to dismantle trade barriers with the mainland has made everything more convenient and efficient for doing business across the strait. It could well help Taiwan revive some of the economic dynamism it has lost as a result of the island’s standoff with Beijing. If Taiwan’s on the right track, economists expect positive growth at an estimated 15% next year and a modest GDP growth of 3.92%.
Tourism Taiwan’s tourism sector seems poised for sur vival amidst the extremity of the world’s economic crisis, thanks in part to scores of Chinese tourists who arrive each day. More than ever, travellers are looking for a bargain and Taiwan makes for a far less expensive destination than Europe or America.
notice. It’s hard to ignore the city’s sophisticated tree-lined boulevards, its network of wellbuilt roads, intercity bullet train connections, fantastic shopping, and scrumptious dumpling palaces. Taipei is, indeed, a fast city but there’s still a friendliness there. To u r i s t s ’ t a s t e s a r e changing—those arriving in the city are seeking more relaxed and unique accommodation. Taipei is capitalising on this. Villa 32 offers five Japanese and European-style suites with lots of clean architectural lines that complement the natural surroundings. Affordable packages include four hours at the resort’s magnificent public hot springs baths and a gourmet Italian meal. Business travellers, who’ve downsized from mainstream hotel chains, will be thankful for Suites Taipei
Da-an, which is all about good location, easy check-in, Wi-Fi and a little quiet.
From Here On In Many challenges are ahead for Ma. Taiwan’s new focus on China could restore its image as one of the four Asian Tigers, making Taiwan more central to global diplomacy and politics. Many Taiwanese, however, don’t consider the island to be part of China and fear closer ties will slowly rip them off their identity and sovereignty. But it’s the government’s dismal handling of the Morakot disaster that is still fresh on the minds of its citizens. Ma’s odds of winning in the 2012 elections have fallen to 50% (he once had an approval rating of 66%). Ma is seeking to regain his popularity. That will be a delicate trick to pull off.
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New World Hotel Dalian is the perfect choice for business and leisure travellers alike. It’s located in the heart of the city— close to the business and finance district and is only 14 kilometres from the Dalian Zhou Shui Zi International Airport and three kilometres from the train station. The hotel, which opened midyear, has 429 graciously appointed guestrooms, including suites that offer spectacular city
views. In keeping with the hotel’s clean and modern interiors, rooms have a very simple and fashionable aesthetic, all the more reason for the hotel’s opulence to shine. At Hotel New World Dalian, personalised service is emphasised, especially in its Executive Floors, where businessmen will be spoilt at the level of service. The hotel offers extensive facilities with a 600-square metre Grand
Ballroom and eight multi-function rooms. The hotel’s F&B outlets have not been overlooked. New World Hotel Dalian has a wide Asian and Western selection—the Coffee Shop serves daily buffet, while the Lobby Lounge provides live music performances to accompany your meal. The Chinese Restaurant is famed for creating a wide range of signature dishes in northern and
…translates to an unforgettable fivestar experience at New World Hotel Dalian traditional styles, as well as local delicacies. Or relax at The Poolside, where you can enjoy delicious and healthy food after your swim. Unwind at The Purple—a charming bar with live band. For guests seeking rest and recreation, the hotel offers a gymnasium, indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, massage service and sauna as well as steam rooms.
New World Hotel Dalian 41 Renmin Road, Zhongshan District, Dalian, Liaoning 116001, PRC Tel (86 411) 8807 8888 www.newworldhotels.com
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Additional reporting by Terrie V. Gutierrez Photography by Concorde Hotel, Four Seasons, Meritus Mandarin, Mandarin Oriental Jakarta, New World Hotel Beijing, The Mira Hong Kong
With new hotels sprouting up all over Asia, established brands are sprucing up their rooms and interiors. The result: Chic interiors, great furnishing, and startling innovations are breathing new life into old favourites, says MENAGA VINCENT
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MAKEOVER Magic
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ustomers’ tastes are becoming even more sophisticated, technology is advancing rapidly, and markets are continuously evolving. While hotel brands can incorporate trends into their new properties, what of established favourites who have been in the business for awhile? The challenge for older hotels is to keep evolving, to keep up with new entrants into the scene. One way of doing this to do a refurbishment of the hotel. Most hotels do this when they’re roughly a decade old at least. Here’s a sampling of what established names are doing:
The Old Guard Opened in 1971 and occupying a single 36-story block, Meritus Mandarin became a landmark when the second block, standing at 40 storeys and 173 metres high, became
the tallest development in the area when it opened in 1973. Designed by Stanley T.S. Leong, the hotel currently has over 1,051 rooms and 32 suites, two exclusive Club lounges and two Presidential Suites. In 1980, the South Tower was extended with the help of Lee Sian Teck Chartered Architects. The Grand Tower was upgraded again in 2003 at a cost of S$52 million. At the top of the South Tower is the Mandarin Club Lounge, while the taller tower has the Top of the ‘M’, the tallest revolving restaurant in Singapore. The hotel specifically targets business travellers, and is thus a popular venue for meetings and conferences with facilities seating up to 1,200 people. Recently, the hotel has relocated its main entrance to the previous South Tower (where the former Chatterbox coffeehouse was located), due to the upgrading and
OPPOSITE PAGE: Open-plan buffet restaurant in New World Hotel Beijing; THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: Presidential Suite, Meritus Mandarin; Cuisine Cuisine at The Mira Hotel.
renovation being done at the Mandarin Gallery and the hotel. The Grand Tower has been renamed Orchard Wing, and the South Tower has been renamed Main Tower. The hotel has closed off its swimming pool, Triple 3 Buffet Restaurant, MezeBar and currently, the only operating outlets are Chatterbox, Pine Court Chinese Restaurant and Obser vation Lounge. Known for celebrating more than 8,000 weddings for the past 35 years, the hotel has refurbished and relocated one of its famous function halls—Mandarin Court from the previous fourth floor at Grand Tower to the current 35th floor at Orchard Wing (formerly known as Grand Tower). The opulent 1,200-room five-star hotel was unveiled in 2006 following a multimillion-dollar facelift of its main lobby, Premier Rooms, Meritus Club Lounge, and Mandarin Ballroom. The Premier Rooms in the Grand Tower have been tastefully refurbished in contemporary style. Minimalist sophistication and warmth are adroitly fused by the contrasting hues and interior details of oriental touches. Guests billeted in the higher storeys enjoy unobstructed views of the island’s manicured greenscape and Orchard Road’s busy shopping enclave. A showcase of aesthetics and functionality, the rooms feature modern essentials and the latest in-room amenities like ample workspace, a 25-inch flat-screened colour TV, a mini hi-fi system including a three-tray CD/ VCD player, state-of-the-art communication network with teleconferencing capabilities, a writing table with separate data port for modem and a comfortable elevated bed with duvet. The Premier Rooms also boast luxurious amenities like a sleek massage armchair for an invigorating treat after a long day of activity. The marbled bathroom comes with glass panels that allow a view into the bedroom and a shutter screen that can be drawn for complete privacy. Meritus Mandarin Singapore is the first amongst Singapore’s hotels to invest in high-quality shower technology in the form of the Pharo Moonlight Shower Panel with therapeutic massaging hydro jets. The new, improved Mandarin Ballroom features a contemporary interior design with luxurious furnishings, plush carpeting, 21st century state-of-the-art audio-visual systems CLOCKWISE: Presidential suite, and intelligent wall-to-ceiling lighting. The wall lighting motifs are designed in congruence with the ceiling chandeliers to enhance
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the effects of lighting on ambience and thematic settings. The 1,020 sq m ballroom can accommodate 1,200 guests and can be partitioned into three smaller rooms, making it ideal for the precise requirements of wedding banquets, corporate functions and conference meetings. Another recently refurbished hotel is the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, which spruced up its rooms last year. Its contemporary exterior belies the hotel’s interior décor of timeless elegance and an ambience reminiscent of a grand residence. Refurbished last year for the first time since it opened in 1994, was the renovation partly influenced by the impending opening of St. Regis in 2007? “As a rule of thumb, hotels undergo fairly major renovations after seven years,” says Regional vice-president and general manager Ignacio Gomez-Tobar. “This hotel is well maintained and still looks good but we believe in investing to keep it looking fresh and to add infrastructure (such as CAT-6 wiring) that will prepare it for future technology additions.” The 190 guestrooms’ retrofit alone cost S$12 million (US$8.15 million) and was handled by the same designer, Hirsch Bedner Associates, in order to preserve its original character as a “timeless, elegant” hotel. Guests have more reasons to be enticed with return visits to Four Seasons as their experience will be heightened by the new look and feel of the refurbished guestrooms. Fresh from a comprehensive enhancement programme, The hotel’s 255 guestrooms including 40 suites feature elegant textured wall fabrics with furnishings in soothing earth tones of mocha, beige and ivory with burgundy accents. Decorated with Asian influences, these special touches are found in the carpets patterned with plum blossom motifs, Chinoiserie-inspired artworks, and objets d’art and furniture pieces reflecting a blend of Asian and European influences. New enhancements include: Wireless connectivity that allows for the simultaneous usage of two laptops, international multipin electrical sockets by the bedside and by the desk, mp3 player connection and audio speakers, VGA port to connect computer to a 42” LCD TV, among others.
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Owned by HPL Hotels and Resorts, the Concorde Hotel Singapore is the fourth Concorde Hotel under the group with the first three in Malaysia. The 407-room fourstar business hotel is situated in the heart of the business, entertainment and shopping district of Orchard Road and is a stone’s throw away from the Istana (President’s Residence). There are 125 Premier Club Rooms and 282 Deluxe Rooms. There are 11 meeting and banquet facilities of varying capacities to accommodate anything from 10 to 800 guests in theatrestyle setting. The lobby has elegant leather furnishings, walls in burnished orange and black hues, all of which is illuminated by natural light filtering through the glass ceiling by day, and ambient lighting by night. The hotel also has several newly refurbished food and beverage outlets such as Spices Cafe, Spices Bar, and the Lobby Lounge. Their tenant, Nogawa Japanese Restaurant, is also located in the hotel lobby area. With the completion of the first phase of its refurbishment in mid June 2009, comes the unveiling of 125 beautifully designed Premier rooms, lavishly appointed Premier Suite, and the plush and well-equipped new Premier Lounge to facilitate a hassle-free private check-in and check-out for Premier residents. Other highlights include the brand-new Spices Cafe, Spices Bar, the Lobby Lounge situated in the vibrant new
lobby area and the front desk. Guests can now also enjoy the newly furbished gym. The majority of the new Premier rooms and suites are located on the highest floor of the hotel and they are a class above the rest, a luxurious home away from home. The introduction of their new Premier Lounge means that guests can meet privately or have breakfast together away from other hotel guests. Premier guests have complimentary use of this room for up to eight hours, subject to availability, for a meeting. Features in this room include French-style windows, dark wood chairs, ornate chandeliers and antique mirrors adorning the white walls. A modern art piece adds a splash of colour.
Elsewhere The hotel scene is pretty exciting in Hong Kong these days. New hotels are vying for space, a testament to Hong Kong’s dynamism. Into this landscape rises the newly launched The Mira Hong Kong. Formerly The Miramar Hong Kong, the new hotel has undergone a massive transformation that makes it light years away from its former incarnation. So accomplished has been its total turnaround, that The Mira can be considered a completely new hotel. Recently awarded “Best New Business Hotel” at the Travel & Meeting Industry Awards 2009, The Mira Hong Kong has
Four Seasons Singapore
Hullett House
Raffles Hote Royal
Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel
LEGACY LODGE
Hark back to colonial times with the most storied heritage hotels in Southeast Asia By jamie nonis | Photography BY Hullett house, angsana.com, raffles.com
It isn’t just contemporary hotels that have undergone refurbishment. Another kind—landmark hotels— have also had their fair share of renovation, or maybe we can call it, reimagination. Like Caravelle, which is featured in the main story, these hotels have been an intrinsic part of their respective countries’ histories and as such are as much a part of their nation’s collective consciousness. The wear and tear of time has marked each of these structures and we’re glad that they have been spruced up. Some were originally hotels, while others served other functions before they were repositioned as hotels in recent times. Whatever their history, they remain part of their countries’ cultural legacies. Hullett House, Hong Kong In a city marked by modernity and accompanied by a frenetic pace, the restoration of one of Hong Kong’s historical landmarks is definitely worth celebrating. Renamed 1881 Heritage and reopened this October,
Hullett House is one of the four oldest government buildings in Hong Kong still standing. It was first completed in 1884 as the Marine Police Headquarters, briefly served as a Japanese naval base during the Japanese Occupation of 1941 to 1945, and eventually declared a national monument in 1994. Now celebrating a new lease of life, its posh makeover spans restaurants and bars, a luxury shopping mall, cultural spaces, and a boutique hotel overlooking the Hong Kong cityscape and Victoria harbour, in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui. www. hulletthouse.com Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh The hotel’s storied past began in 1929, when it was officially opened by His Majesty Sisowath Monivong, King of Cambodia (1927-41). Le Royal was the brainchild of architect Ernest Hébrand, who was responsible for transforming the small Cambodian-French colonial town into a well-planned bustling metropolis. In 1936, the original 54room hotel received cinematic legend Charlie Chaplin, who was on his way to visit Angkor together with his Modern Times co-star, Paulette Goddard. A period of strife soon ensued as
the hotel was closed during March to October 1945 when it was used as Japanese barracks, and again in the 1970s when Phnom Penh was deserted due to bombardment by the Khmer Rouge under the Pol Pot regime. The hotel was temporarily abandoned as the lower floors were fully exposed to rocket and artillery fire. According to some historical accounts, the regime then used the hotel as their office and residential quarters. Picking up the pieces in 1979, the hotel was then named Hotel Samakki, or solidarity, and taken over by international aid agencies. Then in 1996, a new chapter of its history was written as renovations began under the supervision of Raffles International Limited. The surrounding bungalows were demolished and replaced with three new, more substantial wings while the main building was left intact, but completely refurbished through meticulous restoration works. Local Khmer artists were also commissioned to create painted ceilings, decorative beaten copper crests and outdoor sculptures. A year later, the hotel reopened under its current name and there it stands till this day. www. raffles.com
Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel, Laos Situated in the heart of Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel’s rich history traces back to the mid-1900s when Prince Souvanna Phouma was Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Laos several times between 1951 and 1975. The award-winning boutique hotel was the former home of the Prince— La Residence, which was converted into three luxurious rooms—Maison, Laos and Champa—and one twin guest room called La Residence Twin. Naturally, the hotel’s finest room is the Prince’s former bedroom, the beautifully decorated Maison Room. Laos Room, meanwhile, was once the Queen’s bedroom. Under the management of Angsana Hotels & Resorts, the former royal residence has been transformed into a chic luxurious abode with rich silk textiles in red and gold draping the walls and ceilings in the guestrooms while their private balconies are perfect sanctuaries for privacy – truly fit for a king. www. angsana.com Manila Hotel, Manila The year is 1966 and the
excitement in the air is palpable; The Beatles have arrived at Manila Hotel. Indeed, Manila Hotel has a rich reservoir of stories to draw from, accumulated from almost a century of events within its walls, and a plethora of distinguished guests from business tycoons to royalty and heads of state that have walked through its doors. In three years’ time, the national landmark will celebrate its 100th year in existence. Its distinct classical interiors, full of poise and elegance, are still proudly celebrated, however, rooms newly renovated this year provide all the contemporary creature comforts discerning guests appreciate today. The excursion in rich culture and history also extends to the hotel’s surroundings, with the suites and deluxe rooms overlooking either the famous Manila Bay and Rizal Park or the centuriesold Walls of Intramuros, just adjacent to the hotel. Like the great American writer Ernest Hemingway once declared, “It is a good story if it’s like Manila hotel.” www.manila-hotel.com.ph
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also recently celebrated its re-opening and is now fully ready to provide superb services to business and leisure travellers alike. Centrally located on Nathan Road in Tsimshatsui, The Mira Hong Kong is situated in the heart of Hong Kong’s commercial, shopping, dining and entertainment district. Completely overhauled to the tune of US$65 million, The Mira Hong Kong caters to urban and urbane professionals who love staying in a beautifully designed hotel. Taking its millieu as his inspiration, principal designer Charles Allem took design elements from the city itself. “The Mira Hong Kong embodies the unique psyche, provocative taste and untouchable lifestyle of Hong Kong’s most privileged residents, which will also inspire world-travellers to come and experience the same,” says Allem of his design vision. The hotel has of 492 brand new guest rooms, suites and specialty suites in three types of themed rooms: Red, Green and Silver. All rooms are furnished with these design staples: the Egg Chair by Arne Jacobsen, a 40-inch LCD TV, 500GB Sony Personal Computer / Entertainment Centre, Bose iPod dock, “My Mobile” Nokia phone service, which connects guests anywhere, anytime, inside or outside of the hotel; plus complimentary high-speed Wi-Fi and wired Internet. As if that were not enough, the designsavvy business traveller can opt to book a room at The Mira Club, two floors featuring purple colour-schemed rooms culminating in The Mira Club on the 12th and 15th, with personalised check-in and check-out, business support, concierge services, two state-of-the-art meeting rooms exclusive to Club guests, and all-day light dining, among other amenities. The ballroom, designed by the renowned Colin Cowie, is state-of-the-art—a 10,000-square foot pillar-less space that fit up to 800 guests in an L-shaped setting with its stunning “fin” feature wall. The ballroom boasts 18 handcrafted Czech crystal chandeliers, LED lighting with 25,000 colour combinations, and futuristic audio-visual rigging, Wi-Fi and wired Internet access. Bespoke furnishings and stunning
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public spaces serve to create a lasting memory for guests of The Mira Hong Kong. Says Allem: “[The hotel] is designed to fascinate and mesmerise. My vision has been to leave an indelible mark on the mind, body and soul.” Over at China’s dynamic capital, a metamorphosis has also been taking place. In July 2008, the former Jing Guang New World Hotel completed the first phase of its “face-lift” and was re-branded as New World Hotel Beijing. Renovated and redecorated in an elegant, contemporary style, the hotel is a shining tribute to modern five-star hospitality, comfort and convenience. “The renovation is an ongoing project,” says Mr. Allen Chiu, general manager of the hotel. “Forthcoming upgrades will include the remaining guest floors, meeting space, and adding new F&B outlets.”
The Mira Hong Kong
The hotel is conveniently located in the Chao Yang Central Business District, close to the embassies as well as to Beijing’s major financial and tourist centres. The hotel, which is in the process of a major rebranding (expect exciting news soon!), is just 30 minutes away from Beijing International Airport and 10 minutes away by taxi from the main railway station. It’s also walking distance from the Hu Jia Lou subway station. “We wanted to revitalise and reposition the iconic property as the premier lodging facility for business and leisure travellers visiting Beijing, creating new business opportunities, improve guest satisfaction and increase guest retention,” says Mr. Chiu on the move, who sees the refurbishment as a good way to increase awareness and visibility of the fast-growing New World Hotel brand.
“The new look embodies the hotel’s contemporary, modern and stylish thrust, opening a new chapter of extraordinary hospitality,” explains the GM. “We hope that the transformation of the hotel will be able to positively increase guests’ overall perception of the brand, the property, service quality and amenities.” For all that it’s only the first phase, the renovation has been fairly extensive. Costing an estimated RMB100 billion, the first phase of the renovation has seen some major improvements. The lobby was completely redone. “We had floor-to-ceiling windows installed to let in natural light,” he enumerates, adding, “marble flooring and comfortable contemporary furniture, including oversized leather sofas and intimate seating areas were added.” There is now a brand-new Lobby Lounge adjacent to the main lobby, with Wi-Fi Internet access. The lifts were also modernized, as well as the Coffee Shop, a 150-seat full-service dining restaurant that serves Asian, Japanese, and European cuisines, buffet style. The remodelled Executive Lounge is now relocated to the second floor, extending exclusive and exceptional privileges to guests of the Executive Floors. The Executive Lounge features personalised services, such as private check-in and check-out, all-day refreshments, evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, newspapers and magazines, computers with broadband Internet access, LCD television, etc. The full-service Business Centre now features new workstations and two meeting rooms outfitted with state-of-the-art amenities, and many more so guests can have a base away from the office. Some of the new features of the guest
rooms are: Wi-Fi access, an electronic key system, an upgrade in room amenities like 32” LCD television with satellite TV programming, DVD player, in-room electronic safes, and Molton Brown bath amenities. Another key feature of the rooms are the new soft beddings—Simmons mattresses with plush beddings and superior quality linens, duvets and pillows. At the newly refurbished and remodelled 122 rooms and suites of the Executive Floor, major improvements include: stylish new furnishings, workspaces with ergonomic chairs, spacious bathrooms with bathtub or showers outfitted with rainfall or hand-held shower heads, and Molton Brown body care products. The hallways now have abstract paintings and sculptures. In addition to the newly refurbished areas, the hotel has a heated indoor swimming pool, Health Club, restaurants and business facilities. Wi-Fi is also available in all guestrooms and public areas. With over 1,000-square-metre of meeting and banqueting space, the hotel is also an ideal venue for major events, conferences, exhibitions and social functions. The Ballroom and function rooms were beautified and updated with new carpeting, artwork, wall coverings and fresh paint. Following a comprehensive 20-month renovation, Mandarin Oriental Jakarta officially re-opened on 8 October 2009, marking the return of the opulent hotel into the city’s consciousness. “We are very pleased to be back in the city and look forward to showcasing the all-new Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta and to delighting guests once again with the Group’s renowned levels of hospitality,” said General Manager, Andrew Abram. The all-new hotel has 272 guestrooms
New World Hotel Beijing
including 56 oversized and beautifully appointed Mandarin Rooms and six suites. All accommodation has been tastefully designed in a classic contemporary style by the renowned design firm Lim, Teo, and Wilkes (LTW), combining modern facilities with the Group’s oriental heritage and Indonesian culture. In addition, each room features state-of-the art guest-centric in-room technology. The hotel also offers a variety of innovative dining concepts, with four new restaurants featuring a range of international cuisine— from quintessential regional Chinese to an authentic French brasserie experience. There is also a signature Mandarin Oriental Cake Shop and a chic MO Bar overlooking the main Jakarta thoroughfare. Over 1,000 square metres of luxurious meeting and banqueting facilities can cater from 14 to 600 guests; all with natural daylight, and equipped with the latest technology. Leisure facilities include a state of the art fitness centre with personalised treatment rooms as well as an outdoor pool surrounded by lush tropical gardens.
What’s ahead The profile of tourists to Asia is changing fast. No longer is Asia the backpackers paradise and a new region to be explored, and the local tourism industry needs to move fast to re-invent reasons for people to visit Asia. Researches have demonstrated that international tourists generally look for something different when choosing destinations. With Asia looking more and more like the West every year, with the same skyscrapers, modernity and comforts, and previous idyllic resorts becoming overcrowded or polluted by unsustainable development, the challenge is really up to the tourism and hospitality industry as a whole. Yet this is also a period of unparalleled opportunity being committed to remaining at the forefront of understanding what travellers need and demand, both now and into the future. Regardless, hotels will constantly have to one up each other or be left behind in this race for advancement. By understanding these key business drivers and in hopes of delivering the technology that will support the hoteliers to stay competitive in a rapidly changing world.
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destinationmyanmar Photography by sean su
BEHIND THE
On her first trip to Myanmar, SHAN CHUA gets a rare and fascinating glimpse of a culture that hasn’t been in the tourism radar for a long time
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THIS SPREAD,FROM LEFT: Myanmar is rich in stuppas; it’s a custom for locals to wear thanakha an all-around sunscreen, face cream, and medicine, on their faces
I k new th at I wa s in for a n experience the minute we landed at the airport in Yangon. Men and women clad in longyi, the sarong-like garment that locals wear in Myanmar, were on hand to greet us. Unlike other countries where locals rarely wore their national dress, in Myanmar it’s still common to see locals wear the longyi. As we explored the country, we saw men wear it tied around the waist like in the old days. The women, on the other hand, wore it like a sarong. Made of different colours and patterns, the longyi was an intriguing piece of clothing that we wanted to own one right away. Wearing one will certainly go a long way toward making you feel like—or at least, look the part of—a local. And this being a tropical country, the longyi was a good way to keep cool. Most locals have many versions—cotton for everyday and silk for more formal or special events. More than the clothing, you will have to quickly forget about the outside world once you’re in Myanmar. The country’s GSM network does not support global network, which makes communication difficult. But this can be good news for those longing to get away from it all. In this country, going incommunicado is still possible.
Yangon There are about 135 ethnic groups in
Myanmar. The major races are Kachin, the Kayah, the Kayin, the Chin, the Mon, the Bamar, the Rakhine, and the Shan and that the name Myanamar actually embraces all the ethnic groups. Formerly known as Burma, with China, Laos, Thailand, Bangladesh and India as neighbors, Myanmar is a land with a fascinating culture and fabulous natural and manmade attractions. Why has it been under the radar for so long? Then again, tourism no matter how well-intentioned, always has a way of commercialising everything, so maybe it is good that the country hasn’t been discovered by tourists yet. But thoughts like these were quickly forgotten as we checked out the local goings on. As shy locals went about their daily business with their faces covered in a white powder called thanakha, an all-around facial cream, medicine, and sunscreen that everyone uses, a circa 1930s Chevrolet bus caught our attention, probably because we have never seen so many people crowded in one vehicle. More than 30 people were packed into the bus or hanging on handles especially built for this purpose. Yangon has taxis but if you want an adventure and be part, albeit briefly, of the local culture, hop on a bus. For a good view, go up the roof for “first-class” seating. As the afternoon drew on, we observed laughing kids clad in white and green uniforms, carefree because it’s
the end of another school day. As Yangon transformed from day to night, sidewalk cafes and restaurants spring to life, lining the streets and giving the air more verve and energy. Nothing glamorous like what we see in big cities, Myanmar’s shops are much smaller yet cosier, done up with an artistic feel, yet still in touch with the local culture. With handsome brick apartment buildings all around, cafes and restaurants open up in the streets or in British Colonial buildings, with the interiors heavily influenced by that period. Take your pick from real street food that all looks delicious. Myanmar food has its own unique identity. Considering that its neighbors, Thailand and India, are known for their spicy food, Myanmar cuisine is anything but. Staple dishes are noodles or rice served with a variety of side dishes. Dishes with coconut and fish gravy are favourites among the locals. We grew to love their assorted array of vegetables coated with a thin layer of flour and then deep-fried, accompanied by a special dip of chili and soya sauce—a simple yet appetising starter. We always order this dish wherever we stopped to eat.
Bagan Bagan is a city of stupas. Our first glimpse of pagodas was in Yangon—and it didn’t prepare us for Bagan, which seemed to be made up entirely of stupas. There are two principal ancient religious cities in Southeast Asia: One is Angkot Wat. The other is Bagan. For many visitors, Bagan is superior to the two just because of the breathtaking view of seeing the ruins of thousands of temples sprawled across a dusty plain. It’s quite an experience to stand on top of the Sulamani Temple in mist-covered dawn and see thousands of stupas of all shapes and sizes slowly revealed as the mist dissipates. The sight just makes one seem so small and insignificant, and nothing in the world matters at that moment. Interspersed among the stupas are fields planted to corn, green beans, sesame and rice. It boggles the mind how the ancient Burmese managed to build a few of these fantastic structures, let alone thousands of them! I heard they used elephants to test the strength of the structure. To the ancient Buddhists build stupas to symbolise a life that is solid and prosperous. Ironic that these temples would one day be a breathtaking tourist
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destination in Myanmar. Bagan’s weather is cool and crisp, even colder in the early morning. This did not deter the locals from setting up shop at their local market—Nyaung Oo Market, the city’s biggest. Here, you will definitely buy something you like. The cool climate allows locals to be self-sufficient in growing vegetables and fruits. You can be assured the groceries you lug home are guaranteed fresh. Natural soaps, thanaka, fat, red tomatoes, the greenest vegetables—some unfamiliar to us—can all be found here. Around the corner is a stretch of seafood, dry goods, and houseware—and lacquerware. Myanmar is famous for its lacquerware. Here, you can buy all sorts—from tissue holders, to bowls, to massive vases and more. Bagan has a tradition for lacquerware, this being the area where the oldest pieces were found. Lacquerware-making takes a lot of patience and effort. First, a shape is woven by hand, then lacquer is applied by hand layer by layer to ensure smoothness and consistency. Definitely proud of their hard work and effort, locals of Bagan sell their handiwork everywere—in restaurants, shops, and hotels. The evening sun was slowly sinking as we reached our hotel, the Aureum Palace Orient. The grounds are extensive; we had
to ride a buggy to get to our villas, which are, of course, shaped like stuppas. This resort and spa set amid 27 acres of tropical landscaped gardens offers the ultimate in luxury for guests seeking a superlative vacation experience. Museum-quality antiques and artefacts adorn each villa, complementing the majestic ambience of the resort. Bedrooms are spacious and elegant: bathrooms are large and lavishly equipped with five-star amenities. Outdoor highlights include private terraces for al-fresco dining and relaxation, while many villas also offer Jacuzzis or plunge pools. Explore the sunset watchtower to catch the best view of Bagan, the best spot for sunset viewing.
gather daily for this holy ceremony of giving. These donors get to take part in distributing rice, food for these monks. Travelling into the villages, we gained a better insight into the Burmese way of life. All around, we saw horses pulling makeshift carriages, passing by homes of the locals. Houses are made simply out of bamboo, wood, dried leaves, and yet, there were smiles everywhere, showing us the ordinary side of life of Myanmar. The countryside scene in the village seems peaceful and happy. People talking and selling food by the streets, smaller stupas and pagodas here, yet the faith never wavers.
Mandalay
We braved the cold and arrived at Heho, the village that’s the gateway to the Lake Inle district, which is the country’s prime tourist spot. For its part, Heho was also extremely scenic, with a resemblance to the hills and weather of Switzerland, according to the guide. The weather was cool and crisp when we arrived. We feasted on fresh strawberries, whose taste lingered on the tongue. The principal handicraft here is umbrella- or parasol-making. From shaving the bamboo that holds the structure, to the paper art drawn on each umbrella, it’s a traditional that needs to be preserved.
Next stop: Mandalay, which has the largest concentration of monks in the country. So many are the monks that Mahagandhayon Monaster y is called “Center of the Universe.” We arrived just in time for the morning meal of 1,200 monks. What a sight! Watching them as they quietly ate, I felt that they understood life better than us, or maybe because they endure much hardship that they seem to know more about life? Locals have much respect for Buddhism and the monasteries. Many donors and families
CLOCKWISE FORM BELOW: Lake Inle is the principal tourist destination in Myanmar; Silk-weaving; The long-necked women of the Padaung Tribe; Monks receiving meals from donors
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Inle Lake
Inle Lake was the highlight of the trip and is rightfully famous. It’s so vast that you won’t be able to explore everything in one day even if you go around by motorboat. Cruising in the middle of the water, watching locals fish via their unique conical nets, birds soaring high over the water, with majestic mountains in the background, enhancing the beauty of the lake…can you tell how ulterly beguiled I was? We docked our boat at a blacksmith shop, where artisans were making handmade knives and swords via traditional means—heating the metal so it becomes pliable, then beating it into shape. It takes more than one man to accomplish the task. Nearby were small houses that comprise a mini-floatingfactor y of silk-weaving. Each house contains one part of the sequential process of weaving silk. Making the fabric entails extracting the threads from the pods, which are done by women with exquisitely nimble fingers, right up to the weaving process of stepping on the wood bundled with the threads. As we admired the amazing means the people
of Myanmar make their living, we also admired their resilience in maintaining age-old practices of these crafts. Going around the lake, we couldn’t miss the fishing method in Myanmar. Here, the everyday chore of catching fish becomes a tourist attraction. Fishermen in Inle Lake, row with one leg while holding a cone-shaped net in their hands. It’s become so popular that it inspired a yearly competition. The much-celebrated Phang Dew Oo Pagoda Festival held in October, has a segment of racing competition of 15 feet long racing boats and 42 men rowing. The tradition started with four villages and has now grown to 64 villages. As we sailed on, we met up with the long neck women from the Padaung tribe. As we gazed at their heavy neck pieces coiling around their long necks, they seemed perfectly happy and at ease, without the pain we imagined, for long necks are considered a true beauty in their tribe. The night at the lake drops to a freezing 10 degrees. Above, the sky is very clear, with the stars all out. It took our breath away just admiring the night.
Back Again Back at Yangon, it seems like the rest of the trip was a dream. Late afternoon, we enjoyed coffee amongst the locals at ease in mini-tables and chairs, just chatting away by the streetlights. The streets are dark after sunset; electricity is supplied only for a number of hours each day. As the night depends, we see the houses lighting candles one by one. On the streets, children played against the warm glow as we grew accustomed to the darkness and enjoyed the cool breeze. Our Myanmar trip ended with a visit to Scott Market, which is set up British Colonial-style in brick lanes and alleys. It was a treat to wander around the stalls and admire the handicraft and workmanship of each stall, while gazing at the remains of Scottish architecture. Myanmar has so much to offer, yet is still unknown to the rest of the world. From its colourful streets, shy locals, their faith and religion, the amazing stupas and pagodas to their beliefs, well-preserved village life, let’s hope that the world discovers this amazing country soon.
Buddhism is the principal religion in Myanmar
A DIFFERENT WORLD Basics to know before travelling to what Rudyard Kipling calls, “unlike any place you know about” While not exactly an unknown tourism destination, Myanmar is still off the beaten track for most tourists. Travelling here is fraught with “issues,” from the political— should you even go?—to the practicalities. Here are some notes for you to peruse. WHEN TO GO The best time to go is between November and February, when it’s not so hot and the monsoon season is over. However, those who like the heat, can go during summer, in March-May. The southwest monsoon starts mid-May and tapers off around October. HOW TO GET THERE Get a reputable travel agent to book your tickets for you. If you want to do it on your own though, make Bangkok your “base”—meaning, get roundtrip
tickets to and from Bangkok to your country and from Bangkok, book your tickets to Myanmar via Yangon. Your airfare might come out cheaper. Most international flights arrive in Yangon Airport via Bangkok. WHERE TO GO While the country isn’t as closed as North Korea, the government does restrict certain areas, like lands near the borders where there are disputes with neighbouring countries. But in the areas you can openly go to, you can pick and choose your own itinerary. OTHER TIPS: The only currencies you can convert to kyat (the local currency) are dollars or euros. Credit cards and traveller’s checks are basically useless in Myanmar so bring enough cash.
There are no ATMs, so bring enough cash. Hotel prices are quoted in US dollars, while items such as meals, bus tickets, etc are quoted in kyat. Don’t bring rumpled, torn US dollars. Money changers will only accept clean crisp greenbacks. It is safest to exchange money in hotels or shops rather than in the street, but most locals will advise you to avoid the official money changers since they try to undercut the street lenders. Most tourists change their money in Yangon. When you do change your money, check each bill carefully for tears and cut corners. Bills with these “irregularities” won’t be accepted elsewhere.
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destinationlondon Photography by AMY VAN
SLUMMING IT There’s never a wrong time to visit London, says AMY VAN, who went around the city on a strict budget and had a blast doing it
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OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: Tower Bridge; the view from Tate Modern THIS PAGE CLOKWISE FROM LEFT: Ham and other meats at Borough Market; Bijoux Afternoon Tea at Palm Court; paella stand at Portobello Market
London is one of those places that will always fascinate even those who have visited it many times. Beyond its scores of attractions as well as entertainment and dining spots, the pulsating city has a bulging calendar of events, which travellers can enjoy throughout the year. Most think that the city is expensive, and it can be. But if you know where to go and check the many activities and attractions the city offers, there will be something for every taste and budget.
On the cheap A tour around London doesn’t have to burn a hole in your wallet. If it’s a rainy day, spend a few hours (without having to pay an admission fee) at the British Museum whose 19th century building features Lord Norman Foster’s impressive glass roof over a public square. Exhibits include Ancient
Egyptian, Greek and Roman artefacts and medieval European treasures. Meanwhile, modern art fans can spend a few hours at the Tate Modern located in an old power station at Bankside. There you can view a vast collection of contemporary masterpieces by Picasso, Dali, and Warhol. London is a boon to theatre lovers. Head to the West End theatres where hit musicals and plays are born. Tickets can get expensive so for those who love the stage but not the price tag, head to Leicester Square’s Official London Half-Price Theatre Ticket Booth. Tickets for performances held that day are sold from the booth for about half the usual price. It’s a great way to score tickets to some of the most popular shows like The Lion King, Les Misérables and Phantom of the Opera. It does require though that you leave your options open, which might be hard for those who like to go on
a schedule. While waiting for your show to start, take a short walk to Covent Garden, a wonderful place to unwind, have a meal and watch performances by classical musicians or buskers. Music lovers can also pop by St Martinin-the-Fields, within walking distance from Leicester Square, to enjoy free lunchtime concerts on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays, evening concerts by candlelight (admission by ticket) or “Jazz in the Crypt” (tickets £8). If you like to listen to hymns by one of the world’s best choirs, head to the iconic St Paul’s Cathedral during daily evensongs or Sunday morning services.
Mad about markets On weekends, London’s markets come alive. Borough Market on Southwark Street is the city’s oldest food market. Established on the south bank of the Thames when the
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Romans built the first London Bridge, it has occupied the present site for 250 years. You will be amazed at the multitudes of stalls offering all manner of fresh and cooked produce from fruits and vegetables, to preserves, pastas, breads, cheeses, and hams. The brownies and burgers are sublime, as are the strawberries with Jersey cream and Turkish delight. Over at the trendy district of Notting Hill is the world famous Portobello Market, often packed cheek by jowl especially on Saturdays. There’s more food to be had, from paella to pizzas to fresh cherries and berries. Walk the mile-long stretch and spend time scouring for antiques, old records, jewellery, old books, vintage teapots and cups and many more. Before leaving, have a pitstop at one of the many eateries in the area. A wildly popular one is Hummingbird Bakery, famous for its vanilla, chocolate and red velvet cupcakes topped with delicious icing.
A nosh and a nip Once and for all, put the antiquated notion that English food is not delicious out of your head. The culinary landscape in London is pretty exciting and the country probably has the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. You’ll never lack for delicious food in London.
The Langham, London is one of the best spots to luxuriate in a British-style afternoon tea, topped with live tunes from a pianist. The dazzling Palm Court which has been the home of the ‘Afternoon Tea’ for over 140 years serves an assortment of miniature treats such as scones, macarons, French pastries and finger sandwiches. Look out for the sublime Bijoux Tea set inspired by the collections of top jewellery designers. Think: “Baccarat” crystal drops and “Cartier” Love Collection cookies. The extensive range of teas here includes four from Tregothnan—the only estate to produce tea grown in England, owned and run by Viscount Falmouth, who claims Earl Grey (he of the tea) as an ancestor. The Palm Court also has a Tea Sommelier who created two bespoke tea blends, The Langham Blend (traditional breakfast tea) and the Palm Court Blend, a more aromatic infusion for the afternoon. No trip to London is complete without a casual gastropub experience. There are many to choose from including the cosy Bumpkin at Notting Hill and the original gastropub, The Eagle. If you don’t mind Gordon Ramsay’s antics and only care about great food that his chefs churn out, then his gastropub, The Narrow is an excellent place for lunch. The Narrow is housed in a 19th century brewery in East London’s
THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE: The relaxing interiors of Albion; delectable spread at Bumpkin; comfortable vibe at Burnpkin. OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP: St. Paul’s Cathedral; Narrow Black and White Pudding with Mushrooms
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Limehouse district, along the River Thames. It draws mostly business executives working at Canary Wharf on weekdays and nearby residents on weekends. Dig into the braised Gressingham duck leg in cider with baby onions or chicken and tarragon pie with mash, then end with a luscious serving of Eton Mess composed of layers of cream, meringue, and strawberries. For a casual chic experience, make your way to Albion. This café at Terence Conran’s Boundary project (which also includes a hotel, restaurant, and rooftop bar) is where you can mingle with the trendy set. The ambience is welcoming, airy and flooded with natural light. It’s also one of those places where you can have breakfast or hearty lunch, then linger till teatime for homemade cupcakes, brownies, and gingerbread biscuits. For a homey feel, teapots are kept warm in knitted tea cosies and freshly baked bread are served in small baking tins. Order a plate of pork crackling to go with a robust portion of Welsh rabbit with root vegetables (some of the produce comes from the kitchen garden at Conran’s country home), followed by a large slice of cake, and you’ll be one happy diner. Meanwhile, foodies can enjoy an interactive dining experience at Cookbook Café where aspiring chefs and sommeliers can learn or share their knowledge. Here,
guests can experience wine and food tasting, book launches, cooking demonstrations and roundtable discussions with visiting chefs. Overlooking Hyde Park, the place is adorned with a collection of 200 cookery books including some rare antique ones. There is a great selection of breakfast favourites and an all-day menu offering casual fare. This also happens to be a great spot for Sunday brunch. Feast on wood-fired breakfast pizza, Glamorgan Lamb and Angus Steak, the freshest seafood and poached eggs with sour cream and caviar, and round off with a Bellini or an Iced Tea Martini.
Sleepover The Langham, London is one of those
places you look forward to returning after a day out in the city. The newly revamped hotel is just a few steps away from Regent Street’s fashionable boutiques, restaurants, and Oxford Circus tube station. Completed in 1865, it was one of the largest public buildings in London and the first hotel with airconditioning and hydraulic lifts. In the early days, there was also a 365-foot deep artesian well beneath the building for fresh water supply. It was the only hotel to originally have its own post and telegraph office to boot. After its £80 million refurbishment, the stunning establishment today features 380 luxurious guestrooms and suites, fused with an elegant and contemporary
residential feel. Aside from its plush bespoke furnishing and specially commissioned artwork, the spacious rooms have been fitted with flat screen televisions, state-of-the-art entertainment system, mp3 players, and wireless Internet access. After sinking into the inviting Langham Blissful Bed, you may not even want to leave the room. Meals-wise, The Landau restaurant serves modern European cuisine by Chef Andrew Turner, famous for creating his exquisite grazing menus. And for a nightcap, head to Artesian, the hotel’s swish cocktail bar where you can sip a rum cocktail or two. Or better still, request for the Cocktail Grazing list, which offers choices of cocktails and rums in four taster servings.
BIG BEN BASICS
Tips, addresses, and other things you need for your trip
GETTING THERE Singapore Airlines flies direct from Singapore to Heathrow airport daily. GETTING AROUND The London tube is the easiest and fastest way to travel around the city. Buy an Oyster card (pre-paid smart card) as it is the cheapest way of getting around on buses and tubes. There is a £3 refundable deposit on each card. One of the best ways to see London is on foot, but do bring a map along. Currency £1 = S$2.35 SGD MARKETS, ETC Albion 2-4 Boundary Street Shoreditch, London E2 7DD; tel: 020 7729 1051 Borough Market open Thursdays-Saturdays Bumpkin at Notting Hill 209 Westbourne Park Road; tel: 020 7243 9818 Cookbook Café, Intercontinental London Parklane, One Hamilton Place, Park Lane,
London W1J 7QY; tel: 020 7318 8563) (www.london.langhamhotels. co.uk, tel: 020 7636 1000) Hummingbird Bakery 133 Portobello Road; tel 020 7229 6446 Portobello Market open daily except on Sundays. Go during the weekday as it’s crowded on weekends The Eagle 159 Farringdon Road, tel: 020 7837 1353 The Narrow 44 Narrow Street, London E14 8DP; tel: 020 7592 7950 The Langham London 1C Portland Place, London, W1B 1JA, UK; tel 44 20 7636 1000; www.london.langhamhotels. co.uk CULTURE CLUB Covent Garden
www.covent-garden.co.uk St. Martin in the Fields www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org St. Paul’s Cathedral www.stpauls.co.uk The British Museum If you don’t have too much time, take advantage of the eyeOpener gallery tours, 30-40 minute talks by volunteer museum guides introducing different areas of the museum’s collection; open 10am-5:30pm, extended hours on Thursdays and Fridays; admission is free, unless stated; www.britishmuseum.org Tate Modern Do a two-fer deal: The Tate Boat runs every 40 minutes during gallery opening hours between Tate Modern and Tate Britain; open 10am6pm, Sundays-Thursdays, extends to 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays; admission is free, except to the major exhibitions; www.tate.org.uk
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destinationdali
Photography by Mike Smith
COLD MOUNTAINS, HIDDEN
Snow-capped mountains, Naxi matriarchs, and ancient architecture enchant MIKE SMITH as he explores the cities of Lijiang and Dali Lijiang and Dali are established destinations for travellers wishing to explore historical architecture, experience indigenous customs, and bask in an area of natural beauty. Easy access from Kunming makes these neighbouring towns a convenient two-stop trip in the Yunnan province of Southwest China.
Lijiang In the shadows of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and at 2,400 metres above sea level sits the magical city of Lijiang. It consists of a well-preserved old town and a duller, commercial, albeit rapidly developing outer city. The former has been exceedingly well restored after a major earthquake in 1996 devastated the area. The latter provides modern hotels and shopping centres that have allowed tourism in the region to develop at a robust rate. Further afield
THIS SPREAD: Young women of the Naxi tribe pose for a photo; Snow Jade Mountain provides a fitting backdrop to this colourfully costumed youngster
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VALLEYS
there are excursions to the world-renowned mountains and river gorges. Lijiang is best explored on foot, so bring a sturdy and comfortable pair of walking shoes. It’s intriguing to explore the markets, as this gives you an overview of what the place is all about. Lijiang’s did not disappoint. Full of pungent smells, exciting colours, intriguing meat (which hung above live animals), and aromatic spices, the market’s chaos and noise provided an unusual insight to the locals’ daily life and food culture but is not for the squeamish. However, the Old Town of Lijiang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known as Dayan, is still rich in charm despite the abundance of domestic and, increasingly overseas tourists. The dominant ethnic Naxi tribe, whose women rule the roost, with elders in their blue traditional clothing
and younger girls in white with coloured trimmings, go about their daily chores with much disregard for the many visitors. The fascinating maze of narrow, cobbled pedestrian streets linked by stone bridges and crisscrossed by fast running streams make for some fun exploring. I simply wandered, occasionally browsing in the historic wooden Naxi houses and shops, which looked largely unchanged by time. I ended up at Sifang Street, the central old market square. From the window seat of an upstairs café, I took in the view and enjoyed a cup of Chinese tea. Camera-toting tourists, market stalls with bright copper pots, enamelled artistic tiles and numerous souvenirs filled the square below me and I enjoyed the different perspective offered from the café seat. Afterward I strolled up Lion Hill and was treated to a bird’s eye view of the grey tiled rooftops of Dayan
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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: Tiger Leaping Gorge; three pagodas in Dali; Bai guides; market scene in Dali
and far into the distance I could see the picturesque landscape Lijiang is so famous for. Despite the crowds, the area is tranquil and refreshing. What I liked about Lijiang is that you can either see the key scenic spots in a day or take longer to explore the region, making it enjoyable both for young families and more experienced travellers.
Tiger Leaping Gorge A couple of hours’ drive northwest of Lijiang is Tiger Leaping Gorge. To get there, you can either enjoy a day trip by taxi or bus to see the most accessible section near Daju or spend two to three days trekking the gorge. Named after a tiger, that supposedly leaped across the gap at its narrowest point to escape from hunters, it is one of the world’s deepest, longest and narrowest gorges—3,900 metres from the top of the mountains to the river and 30-80 metres wide. It’s approximately 17km long in the narrowest section and drops 300 meters in a series of 18 rapids. You need a head for heights and must keep an eye on the weather as conditions can be dangerous when wet. A local guide is not essential but I suggest you get one to prevent getting lost
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and to smooth the way with the locals. I opted for a day trip, which included the first bend of the Yangzi River and an ethnic market to get a glimpse of the raging “Jinsha” passing through the gorge. After passing the rather pushy souvenir stall owners I descended the hundreds of steps to the roaring river to the rock from which the tiger is said to have leapt. Hiking back up was hard work yet pride and the debatable safety of the sedan chair helped me resist the urge to hitch a lift to the top. As I caught my breath at the top, Tibetan children provided a politically incorrect but curious diversion as they posed with a captured pet owl.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain From all over Lijiang you have a great view of the 5,500m peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The towering peaks are snowcovered all year and the heavily forested mountain is especially colourful in spring when the camellias and azaleas are in full bloom. I was a little daunted by the hordes of tourist buses in the coach park as I emerged from my taxi, but was put at ease when I saw how huge the plain is. A lady with a yak helped entertain me before I got my place
on the chair lift to Dragon Spruce Meadow, which is a lovely flat alpine grassland at 3,300 metres. In winter it is covered in snow and very cold but when I was there, it was warm, the air was clear and fresh and the snow-covered peaks were well above me. Despite suffering a little from altitude sickness I still managed to enjoy watching Naxi and Tibetan girls dancing and posing on the plain to earn a few yuan. It was very pleasant and nowhere near as tacky as it may sound. After a day of exploring I started the evening at an obligatory Naxi music concert which frankly was rather dry for my taste so I opted out after a few acts and enjoyed a refreshing beer and dinner of peppery chicken in a nearby café instead. Next stop: Dali. I was loathe to leave Lijiang, yet I was excited to see what Dali, three hours’ drive south, had in store for me.
Dali Long a backpacker’s hangout, Dali is known for its easygoing lifestyle, western cafes and guesthouses. With easy access it has seen an increase in short-stay domestic and international visitors in recent times. Many just relax in the old city while others explore the Cangshan Mountains and the
250 sq km Erhai Lake while absorbing the Bai culture. Like Lijiang, Dali is extremely pedestrianfriendly and walking was my transport of choice. I entered the walled town at the South Gate and travelled leisurely to the North Gate. The small cobbled streets, interesting parks full of bearded old men playing cards and chess, as well as the lively market make this a relaxed but thriving town. Dali’s traditional architecture of low buildings with green roof tiles prevail in the older town but inevitably development is rapid outside the city walls. I enjoyed the diversity of ethnic tribes here, although there were few of them, which included the majority Bai tribe in their colourful costumes and the Yi and Tibetans selling their wares in the street. Huguo Lu, better known as Foreigners Street, is the place to go for cafes and I chose to wind down with a cold beer and western food with other tourists. It is also a great place to shop for the local marble, clothes, and blue and white tie-dye material, which make great souvenirs and gifts for the people back home. I couldn’t resist buying an old baby carrier, which I framed, and now hangs proudly in my living room. Remembering my youth, and the Swinging Sixties, I took a taxi to Zhoucheng County to see for myself the tie-dye cottage industry professionals at work. Zhoucheng Village was built in a grid pattern with row upon row of houses. I found a “factory” in an old set of dwellings around a central courtyard. Large bundles of white tied cloth were put into huge wooden vats of natural dye to soak and absorb the deep blue colour before being hung out to dry. The tying looked complicated but the patterns were quite simple and definitely attractive.
Cangshan Mountains Against the backdrop of mist and cloud, the breathtaking snowcapped Cangshan Mountain standing at 4,000 metres is one of Dali’s key attractions. Experienced mountaineers can ascend the Zhonghe Peak but it’s physically out of the reach of most people, myself included. We arrived from Dali on a horsedrawn cart, before riding the chairlift to the Taoist temple. From the chairlift, spectacular views of Lake Erhai and the Three Pagodas were a treat to the eyes. Taking a moment to enjoy
BRIDGING THE DIVIDE
Important info you need for a fabulous visit HOW TO GET THERE Silk Air has flights to Kunming from Singapore. From Kunming, take a short domestic flight to Lijiang. Drive to Dali via the highway. WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Lijiang and Dali is spring and autumn Top Travel Tips • You don’t really need a guide to visit the major sites in Dali & Lijiang; it is often more fun to explore on your own. However, trekking in Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Cangshan Mountains is safer with a guide • Bargaining is expected; prices may be marked up as much as 500% in tourist hotspots. • Altitude sickness and cold temperament can be significant on the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in winter so go prepared. • Keep your cool and respect local customs as cultural differences can cause frustration. Other Things to Do and Places to Visit Near Dali I hired a bike at Foreigner Street and pedalled the few km past the rice fields to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng. The Three Pagodas date back to the Tang Dynasty when Dali was a Buddhist kingdom. Returning the bike I enjoyed a drink with a couple of backpackers who’d been there for a couple of weeks. I listened intently as they shared their stories of journeying round the lake to remote markets and their interesting tales of fishing with the cormorants.
the surroundings before continuing my journey I walked from Zhonghe Temple through the mountains. There are also pony rides for those who don’t want to trek. The 11-km trail through the aromatic smelling pine forests toward Xiaguan and Qingbi Stream was easy enough, mainly flat and not too busy. Crystal clear pools, fast flowing streams and small waterfalls added to the allure of the area. I swore I heard monkeys but it turned out to be pine nut collectors high in the trees, instead. Despite hearing a lot of birds, I spotted frustratingly few. We followed the trail down from the Seven Dragon Maidens’ pools of various colours at Qingbi Stream to the highway where we caught a taxi back to Dali.
Erhai Lake Erhai (literally, “ear sea”) Lake is a
FROM TOP: A market stall in Lijiang; slate grey rooftops of Lijiang
10-minute bike ride from Dali. Many tour companies operate full-day cruise tours but smaller, more personal charters can also be arranged. Following the masses, I booked a tour on a large cruise ship. It was fun although I found myself watching people more than the views. Contemporary Chinese music soon dest royed t he tranquillity as the cruise came complete with a karaoke set to entertain the crowds. Bai guides in now familiar white and red costumes poured tea in dramatic style as well as treated guests to traditional song and dance. While the whole cruise was entertaining, next time, I think I’ll take a private tour—all the better to meander at my own pace to explore the various islands and interesting sights, or just to sit still and watch the cormorants swoop down to catch fish.
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destinationxiamen
Photography by Roger Allnutt
BOOMTOWN
Loc ated on the southe a st coast of China opposite Taiwan across the Taiwan Strait is the island port city of Xiamen, one of the five original special economic zones of China. It is connected to mainland China by a number of bridges and an underwater tunnel is due for completion by 2010. Due to the number of egrets found here it is also often called Egret Island. In the 16th century it was the first Chinese port used by Portuguese, Dutch, and English traders and in 1842 it became a treaty port where foreigners could live and trade. In those days it was known as Amoy. Nowadays Xiamen is the fourth largest port in China in terms of cargo movements—the cargo facilities are on the western side—and the 10th largest in the world. In the past decade or so the island has undergone incredible development and the population has swelled to over two and a half million, still a small city by Chinese standards. It is a pleasant city, well laid out, in many ways reminiscent of Singapore. One city statute I found interesting was that the city fathers banned motorcycles so traffic, although heavy, moves swiftly and easily and there is less noise.
Cityscape Xiamen enjoys a subtropical, maritime climate and with the wealth of trees, shrubbery, and gardens, island coastline and variety of attractions it is a popular holiday destination for many visitors around China and increasingly from overseas. Numerous high-class hotels are available—some like Mandarin, Best Western Premier, Crowne Plaza Harbourview, Ramada, JW Marriott, and Wyndham reflect a continuing high level of foreign investment. Other recommended hotels include the Marco Polo, Powerlong Hotel, Minnan and Jinyan Hotels, Huaqiao Hotel and the Miramar Hotel. The airport is around 30 kilometres north of the main city and is reached by a lovely “Round-the-Island” road, part of which is a raised highway perched above the sea. On a clear day, you can see the closest islands of Taiwan, called Jinmen
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One of China’s original special economic zones, Xiamen (formerly Amoy) has always had an open and laid-back vibe, says ROGER ALLNUTT, probably because of its seafaring culture
Round buildings of Hakka village
by the locals, only five kilometres offshore. There is a large naval base on the island a reminder of those periods when the Chinese and Taiwanese governments have been sabre-rattling at each other. In fact, I was intrigued by the huge banner on the roadside facing Taiwan that I was told read “One Country Two Systems, the Reunification of China.” The east coast is in a state of flux, with massive construction going on. Planned buildings in the area include a convention centre, more hotels, marinas, and golf courses—all the facilities to attract the high-end traveller. Going around Xiamen is easy. The Round the Island Road provides a link to a number of tourist attractions, including Hulishan Fort, which is popular among locals who love to stroll along the pathways and dine at one of the many restaurants in the area. Seafood is the cuisine of choice here: I had an excellent banquet at the Beauty Seafoowd restaurant but the sight of all the different fish and crustaceans swimming in tanks before being prepared for our meal was a bit off-putting.
Architectural Wonders
Xiamen skyline
Xiamen’s main tourist attraction is the small island of Gulangyu, a 10-minute ferry ride from downtown Xiamen. There are no vehicles on the island apart from a few battery-driven tourist movers and it is relaxing to wander the narrow streets absorbing the mix of Chinese and foreign architectural styles as many foreign embassies and consulates were located there during the early 20th century. The many architectural styles on the island are represented among others by traditional Chinese temples with their upturned eaves, former consulates built along the Western styles of their home countries in the 19th century, even tiny Japanese houses. Not for nothing is Gulangyu Island referred to as the “Gallery of International Architecture.” The buildings are grand and exhibit a variety of styles. In the Sea and Sky Mansion, which is actually composed of five villas, it’s great fun to watch hand puppets performing to traditional Chinese music (an acquired taste). The “performers” show incredible skill and flexibility. Although the booming Xiamen skyline across the water from Gulangyu is dominated by new high-rise structures, the locals are
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careful to preserve the more gracious styles of buildings from earlier times. The lovely Shuzhuang Garden meanders along the southern coast of the island with a pathway leading up to the Hall of Roaring Tides, which houses around 600 different pianos from antique to modern, collected from all around the world by Hu Youyi, a native of the island but now residing in Australia. Some of the pianos are played by musicians during the day. Gulangyu is also sometimes called the Island of Pianos and the Land of Music. Gulangyu has pleasant parks—including Bright Moon Park, built to commemorate national hero Zheng Chenggong and the Yuyuan Gardens honouring Lin Qiaozhi (1901-83) a famous gynaecologist and obstetrician in China. The highest point of the island at the top of Dragon Head Hill is Sunlight (Huang) Rock at only 92 metres. From here, you can view panoramas of the islet and across to Xiamen itself. Sunlight Rock consists of two huge rocks, one horizontal and the other vertical leaning on each other. A local saying goes, “It will be a trip to Xiamen in vain without climbing Sunlight Rock.”
Booming Metropolis Close to downtown Xiamen is the lovely South Putou Temple, with a history stretching back 1,000 years. The temple complex contains a number of halls and shrines with in the Chinese fashion, evocative names such as Hall of Heavenly Kings, Shrine of Sakyumuni Buddha, Hall of Great Compassion and the Sutra Hall. I was surprised, in this Communist country, at the number of monks and devotees of the Buddhist philosophies; the devotees were all leaving colourful bouquets of flowers as offerings. Huge ponds full of lotus flowers and small turtles add to the colour. The temple backs on to a group of lovely peaks and is adjacent to Xiamen University, founded in 1921. Haicang Bridge connects Xiamen to mainland China and local authorities are busy developing the mainland side as a new manufacturing area with plans to move factories on the island to the mainland precinct. Haicang Bridge is a steel-box floating bridge; at nearly 6km long with a central section over 3km, it is the largest in Asia. To get to the bridge the highway from the centre of the city
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passes the port area of Xiamen, one of the busiest in China. The development is incredible, huge factories built and then offered to companies—Kodak is located here—and towering residential blocks earmarked for workers. I wonder what effect the global financial crisis will have on this massive development and expansion.
Shopping Galore! Back in Xiamen the intrepid shopper will be drawn to Zhongshan Road, a pedestrianonly street lined with shops ranging from high-end brand names to market stalls. At 10pm the streets are packed with shoppers buying or just strolling possibly as a way to “escape” from their high-rise apartment blocks. Other busy shopping precincts include SM City Square and the World Trade Mart.
Xiamen and the province of Fujian in which it is located produce an amazing variety of goods ranging from subtropical fruits, marine products, medicinal foods, pearl embroidery, lacquer line carvings, cloth figures, calligraphy and jade and porcelain articles. Wulong tea from the north of Fujian is also a popular item. However, most tourists are drawn to the markets with their dazzling array of clothes and household items at very inexpensive prices. Fujian cuisine is one of the eight main cuisines of China. With its proximity to the sea it is not surprising that seafood is a specialty with lobster, abalone, shrimp and shellfish local delicacies. Vegetarian cuisine also has a long history here. Southern Putuo vegetarian dishes reflect the Buddhist diet, combining, for example, beancurd with mushroom,
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Entrance to South Putou Temple, Xiamen; Colourful ferry prow and skyline, Xiamen; Sea and Sky Mansion, Gulang Island; Shuzhuang Gardens, Gulang Island
TOP: Inside courtyard of house in Hakka village; RIGHT: Enticing banquet, Xiamen
winter bamboo shoots and edible fungus. The restaurant within the South Putuo Temple is worth a visit. Another specialty is cooking dishes with medicinal herbs and the Lujiang Harbourview Hotel is regarded as the best place to sample this style of cuisine in Xiamen. Tea is served everywhere and there are many teahouses to indulge this passion with the locals. Specialty “shops” offer elaborate ceremonies for the tourists but I found them expensive and rather hard sell. Xiamen is a great example of booming China, a pleasant, relaxed city to visit. It can easily be combined with other fascinating places in Fujian province including the historical and cultural city of Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian, as well as Wuyishan and the beautiful Mt Wuyi region.
XIAMEN SIDETRIPS
Aside from the booming metropolis, take a detour to see the stunning Hakka Villages 1. Tour the Hakka village. From Xiamen a tour to the Longyan district is a must. A two-hour bus ride through fertile farming land planted with bananas, mushrooms, orchids, among others is followed by a journey through mountainous country of the Hudong Mountains to Yongding county where the amazing earth buildings of the Hakka people are found in a number of villages. These huge round earth buildings numbering around 360 are very popular because of their long history, unique style, and amazing structure. The lives of extended families are contained within the structures, which have three to five storeys, up to 200 rooms, with dining and kitchen facilities on the ground floor, warehouses on the second and bedrooms and guest rooms on the higher floors, and an ancestral area in the centre for holding ceremonies and celebrations. In the 1980s spy satellites interpreted images of the buildings taken from high above earth as secret Chinese missile launching pads but on closer inspection found they were looking at the homes of villagers. In the past couple of years, Chinese authorities have constructed a sealed road to make these remote villages more accessible to tourists. 2. Get some seafood. Try these restaurants: Shuyuo Seafood Restaurant, Happy Paradise Restaurant, and Shark’s Fin Restaurant
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sojournsingapore photography by Eric R.A. Balinghasay
UBIN INTERLUDE If you think Singapore is all about malls and shopping complexes, think again. The country actually has several smaller islands you can go to for a dose of wilderness. ERIC R.A. BALINGHASAY escapes to nearby Pulau Ubin for some much-needed time away from the madding crowd From the jetty, I step into the bumboat, a small narrow water vehicle often used to bring fresh provisions to ships anchored farther ashore. In this case, it will be used to ferry me plus seven other passengers from the mainland to a nearby shore. The paint on the boat’s hull is old, fading and cracked in some places. And the rectangular cabin where my fellow passengers and I huddle is dank and damp, the wooden seating at its sides bare of even cushions to make the ride more comfortable. The cabin windows have plastic sheets for curtains and though there is a sign at the ceiling saying “life vests,” none are distributed or even visible. I tell myself they are beneath our seats, the only space where they could actually be. I could be on my way to Redang Island off Malaysia’s East Coast or one of Thailand’s southern beaches. Or to any other island
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paradise Southeast Asia is known for. But I’m not. I’m actually only 25 minutes away from Orchard Road and Shenton Way, the central shopping and business areas of Singapore, the standard for wired modern nations of the 21st century. Though I have learned to appreciate the safe, clean and soefficient way of living, working and playing in Singapore, I’m on the way to Pulau Ubin to escape it. Pulau Ubin, or “Granite Island” is a 1,020-hectare isle located off the northeast of Singapore. Previously the centre of granite quarrying in Singapore, this ceased when the mines reached below sea level. It is now the location of Singapore’s last kampongs or villages— where water is still pumped from wells and electricity comes from diesel generators. Only about a hundred villagers still live in the island, enjoying the last fringes of “kampong life,” distinct from the urban metropolis of buildings, subway stations and unsmiling, hurrying pedestrians. It’s exactly what I’m looking for.
Solitary Encounters As our bumboat approaches Ubin, the sight of a sole hut surrounded by a treasure of trees reinforces the feeling of being in a different place and time. I get off and walk toward what the boatman says is the village centre, and find myself welcomed by hundreds of bicycles that are rented out for exploring the island. Aside from some islanders shooting the breeze by the jetty,
the only people I encounter are the bicycle shop owners, who compliment me for coming on a Friday as the island is flooded with visitors, both Singapore residents and tourists, on weekends. I carefully test their offerings and select a striking-blue mountain bike and ask for a helmet, reminding myself that I have not been on a bike (except for the occasional stationary one at the gym) in…years. I am clear of the village centre in less than three minutes, heading for the Chek Jawa wetlands at the eastern end of Ubin. The path is bounded by green: durian, coconut and mangosteen trees still bearing fruit, shrubs, ferns and bushes. Interrupted at times by a stream or a lake a hundred metres away, and more rarely, a villager’s house that has a well-tended garden up front and in one case, a cage with a monkey inside! The path gets narrower and suddenly, I’m under a canopy of branches, creating a cool, generous shade that makes the ride quite relaxing, even as my long dormant leg muscles exert more effort when I bike uphill. After awhile, I realise how quiet it is, the chirping of birds the only sound. Once in a while, there is the whoosh of a plane to or from Changi Airport, which, amazingly, is somewhere not so distant. Once my hungryfor-silence ears start opening up to this new experience, they begin making out even the drops of water from the trees’ leaves, still wet from the early morning rain. The vehicles that pass me are few and far in between, all bearing the National
CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE PAGE LEFT: Lovely blooms encountered during the hike; decrepit bumboats at the jetty just the right amount of atmosphere for the trek; a local poses for ashot; beautiful yet stark Chek Jawa wetlalnds
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Parks Board logo. Once in awhile, other bikers, in pairs or groups of three or four, overtake me as I stop to take pictures, check my map, or just to savour the peace. On two occasions I encounter a solitary villager, both walking, both with faces and posture displaying their decades of living. I first see the man from afar, on the crest of the upward path ahead of me. Stooped and barefoot, he stops just as we cross paths. He begins an animated discourse even as I try to explain that I don’t speak Chinese (I think it’s Chinese). And after what seems to be a detailed exposition on his entire life in Ubin, he continues on his way. Several minutes later, I meet a woman, just as hunched but wearing ragged slippers, dragging a box filled with six medium-sized coconuts. She also engages me, this time in Malay, which I recognise but still don’t understand. I think she is asking me where I’m from. After awhile, we smile at each other and I bike on. I feel like I’m on the yellow brick road, meeting characters from the fairy tale forest that gift me with magic spells along my way. Nearing Chek Jawa, the path is now wet soil and more hilly, and I need to be mindful of my speed and my brakes. Where the path is no longer bike-able, I see several bikes parked, and I begin walking, following a wooden sign pointing to the wetlands. The trees are still plentiful but now, there are colourful butterflies with carpet patterns on their wings flitting about, complementing the orchestra of cicadas that have now replaced the bird song. The park ranger at the Chek Jawa visitor’s centre explains that there are two boardwalks for exploring the wetlands: through the mangroves, and by the coast. I decide to do both.
Meet the locals Walking through the mangroves, I see weird profusions of what look like sepak takraw balls growing from the ground (they are nipa, I find out later). A couple of water monitor lizards dash off from the boardwalks when my steps interrupt their reverie. At the coastal boardwalk, I luxuriate at the sight of the Johor Straits surrounding the island, the rhythm of its waves slapping the Ubin shore, and the pleasure of the sea breeze refreshing my awakened muscles. And though I can see the mainland, it seems like a world away. Especially when more of Ubin’s inhabitants make their presence
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THIS PAGE: Mangroves are a vital part of the island’s ecosystem; boardwalk through the Chek Jawa wetlands. OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Peranakan Museum, Singapore Arts Museum, National Museum
felt: a school of flying fishes perform a water ballet, a monkey emerges from the trees on the shore to play solo tag on the boardwalk. After the boardwalks, I continue biking, visiting a couple of quarries, now abandoned and filled up with clear, restful waters that reflect the green foliage encircling them. They are fenced up so I can only see them from the bike path and I can only dream of jumping and swimming in them. It is easy to bike around the island. The trees protect me from the sun, keeping me cool. There are signboards in several places along the path, showing the island map highlighting “you are here.” Before I realise it, four hours have passed since I arrived in Ubin and I reluctantly head back to the jetty to catch a return bumboat to the city. Back at the village centre, I meet Mark Lim, a bird watcher and nature lover who is a constant visitor to Ubin. He first came in 1977, to do an ocular inspection for a company outing. He fell in love with the place and eventually, worked for 10 years as a training instructor for Outward Bound, the worldwide organisation that puts the fear in your heart to inspire
character development, self-discovery and service in individuals and teams. I’ve always wanted to join one of their sessions. I find out that O.B., as Mark calls it, is found on the western end of Ubin but the rough terrain makes it difficult to get to on a bike. I tell myself to find a way to get there one day. As we talk, he points up high above the trees, saying he hears a hornbill cawing. Though I can hear the sound, I don’t see anything. He guides me, telling me exactly where to look, and suddenly, I see a movement, small at first, then bigger and the big bird identifies itself. Amazing. I ask Mark if there is any specific part of the island I can’t afford to miss before I go back to the mainland. He smiles and says there is none. Unlike other places, there is no twin tower, no giant temple, not even a single piece of natural beauty to see that highlights Ubin. As I head to the bumboats to return to mobile phones, high-rise buildings and newly built malls, he calls out, “Stepping on the island is the best thing you can do.” As the hornbill gives another loud caw and flies to his family, I realise that he is right.
UBIN ESSENTIALS Need to know stuff
GETTING THERE Palau Ubin is only two kms northeast of the main island of Singapore. There are bumboats available from Changi Point Ferry Terminal that bring you there. The trip costs
S$2.50 per person and takes only 10 minutes but bumboats only leave when there are 12 passengers (though you can pay for the empty seats if you are in a hurry). To get to the Changi Village
Ferry Terminal, you can take Public Buses No 2 or 29; or take a taxi. The nearest MRT station from the terminal is Tampines station. You can take bus 29 from there. Admission to the island is free. GETTING AROUND Ubin is great for walking and relaxed hiking. Roads are well-marked and trails are easy to explore. You can get a free map at the National Parks Information Centre near the jetty on Ubin. Biking is a fun way to explore the island. There are a variety of bike options—mountain bikes, tandem bikes, etc—
BEYOND ORCHARD ROAD
SINGAPORE HAS ONE OF THE BEST MUSEUM SYSTEMS IN THE WORLD. AS PART OF ITS PUSH TO ENCOURAGE PEOPLE TO EXPLORE THE ISLAND’S HERITAGE, THE NATIONAL HERITAGE BOARD (NHB) LAUNCHED EXPLORE SINGAPORE! 2009—I LOVE MUSEUMS, A WIDE RANGE OF EXHIBITIONS, WORKSHOPS, AND SPECIAL ACTIVITIES SCATTERED ACROSS OVER 20 MUSEUMS IN THE COUNTRY. SO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF…
1. MUSEUMS ON A BUDGET All NHB Museums Three-day Individual/ Family Museum Pass: Cost: Individual pass, S$20; Family pass (up to 5 persons), S$50; SIA Boarding Pass Holders, 50% off admission charges (applicable to SIA and SilkAir passengers who present their boarding pass within seven days from date of travel); students and National Servicemen, 50% off admission charges; teachers and children in the NHB School Membership
programme visit for free. Asian Civilisations Museum Admission charges: Adults, S$5; student, NSF S$2.50; groups of 20 or more: adult, S$4; student, NSF, S$2Joint admission to ACM and Peranakan Museum: Adult, S$10; student, NSF, S$5 Discounted admission: Fridays 7-9pm 50% off admission charges National Museum Of Singapore Admission charges: Adults, S$10; student, NSF, S$5; groups of 20 or more, 10% off admission tickets; family
package: three adults and two children (up to 5 pax), S$30 Free admission to Singapore Living Galleries: 6-8pm daily Peranakan Museum Admission charges: Adults, S$6; student, NSF, S$3; groups of 20 or more: adult, S$5; student, NSF S$2.50 Joint admission to ACM and Peranakan Museum: Adult, S$10; student, NSF S$5 Family Package (5 pax maximum): $20, applicable only during special exhibitions Discounted admission: Fridays, 7-9pm 50% off admission charges
with different brands and models with fee ranging from S$5-15/day. There are also “van taxis” near the Ubin jetty that can be hired for specific destinations and time. Negotiate on the fee before you leave the jetty. Sometimes, the agreement is to drop you off at a specific place (example—Chek Jawa wetlands); and then to prearrange a pickup time. You can also call or text the driver on their handphones when you are ready to be picked up. When to go Ubin is open to the public every day of the year
but ideally, go during weekdays when there are only a handful of visitors. There are no opening and closing hours but regular services like the information centre is only open 8.30am-5pm. Other things you can do here 1. You can stay overnight at one of the island’s campsights. But call the management office +65 6542 4108 in advance to make arrangements. 2. Enjoy local food with the special kampong touch at Ubin Town. There are some restaurants to choose from.
Singapore Art Museum And 8Q Admission charges: Adult, S$8; Student, NSF S$4; groups of 20 or more: 20% off admission tickets Joint admission to SAM and SAM(8Q): Adult, S$10; student, NSF S$5 Family Package (3 adults + 2 children (up to 5 pax): S$25 Combined SAM and SAM(8Q) Family Package: S$30 Discounted admission: 50% off admission charges for foreign seniors
experiential historical tour around Singapore’s WWII sites, covering places little known to the public. Day tour: Ideal for families and young adults, the tour covers the Japanese landing site at Kranji, Kranji War Memorial, Battle of Bukit Timah, the Memories of Old Ford Factory, Alexandra Hospital, and Reflections at Bukit Chandu. Cost: S$10, adult; S$6, child under 12 years old; S$20 per family (two adults, two kids) Night tour: Ideal for groups of friends, the tour covers the Sook Ching Massacre site, the Changi Museum and Chapel, Changi Prison Gate, Fort Canning/Battle Box. Cost: S10, adult; S$10 child; S$15 per pair (two pax)
Singapore Philatelic Museum Admission charges: Adult, S$5; children (3-12 years) and student, NSF S$4 Family package (2 adults and 3 children): 25% off admission tickets 2. WAR ON WHEELS is an
Visit www.museums.com.sg for more details
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sojournďƒ granada photography by Ming E. Wong
THE
ORNAMENT OF THE WORLD
Granada, long a Moorish stronghold before Ferdinand and Isabella gained control of it, is a fascinating mix of cultures, races, cuisine, and art that getting lost in its squares and narrow alleys is as rewarding an experience as seeing its main attraction says MING E. WONG
Royal Chancellery
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Facade of the Archeological Museum
It was 10pm on A Friday evening and Plaza Nueva was in full swing. A long line of people spilled into a kiosk advertising couscous, falafels, and takeaway paella. The food must be good as the queue looked to be mostly locals, some with young kids in tow. That no longer surprised me. I’d just come out of a dimsum bar crowded with yuppie families, with Spanish fathers holding sleeping babies on one arm while sipping red wine with the other. The woman in front of me turned and asked in English, “Are you here for a conference too?” After a few minutes of chatting, we decided the queue wasn’t getting any shorter and that we might be better off adjourning to one of the tabernas nearby. The one bar I had my eye on was full, so we sat at the tables outside in the alleyway. Late October in Granada was still warm but already the local lassies were donning high boots, colourful shawls or fur-edged leather jackets. I was not really sure they needed the winter wardrobe but they looked great and looking great was obviously very important in Spain. Even the kids are perfectly dressed with matching shoes, socks, and hair accessories. My new friend and I ordered a combination tapas platter that came with the regulatory potato omelette, freshly sliced salami, Sierra Nevada smoked ham, lots of cheese and olives. The encounter was typical of the Andalucian night—perfect strangers coming together over drinks and confessions. They say that Spain makes everybody sociable. My new friend was a German IT consultant living in Seattle. I am a Singaporean based in Germany. Our dark and sultry waiter turned out to be Syrian. At lunch the following day, my waitress was an Italian student doing doctoral research on Granadino gypsies. Everybody seemed to have come from somewhere else. Seventy thousand out of the city population of 250,000 were students, thus lending Granada a very hip and happening feel.
Secret Sidetrips
Church courtyard in Albaicyn
I fell in love with the public squares. I aped the locals by fetching pastries from the city bakeries, then eating them on public benches facing fountains and statues. I loved that all the major sites were within walking distance of the town centre. But ladies, wear sensible shoes. Walk and walk everywhere, that’s how you come across street lamps that are hulled
in triangular bushes, street tiles with Muslim engravings or a boutique full of exquisite evening dresses ironically called Dal Bhat (well, ironic for me as the Spanish owner might not have known that it’s the name of a cheap lentil stew in Asia). I spent one morning first walking uphill on Via Caldereria Street and stopping by a Moorish teahouse for a tagine. I continued my climb into the Albaicin, the old Arab quarter that is now a UNESCO heritage site. Located on a hilly part of old Granada, it’s a labyrinth of small squares, pretty villas and lovely row houses on narrow lanes. How does anyone locate an address in this windy maze? There can’t be much privacy either as tourists are forever wandering around and lingering just outside your door. But the residents are obviously houseproud—walls, windows, even roofs are decorated with potted or hanging plants or Moorish tiles. Through filigreed gates, photographers (or at least this amateur one) are beckoned by antique furniture and ceramics on display to take pictures. As I meandered downhill, I almost walked into a herd of cyclists pumping their way uphill toward Sacromonte, the village above Granada that is home to many flamenco bars. Now walking along the river Darro, I stopped by the Promenade along the Paseo del Padre Manjon for more picture-taking of the red fort, the Alhambra looming above. Along the Rio Darro, I sidetracked into a stately mansion that once belonged to a prominent local family. They had taken in a Portuguese friar called João Cidade who was famous for his work with the poor, sick and needy. When he died, he was canonised as St John of God and became the patron saint of hospitals. Indeed the order he established, the Brothers Hospitallers of St. John of God is still entrusted with the medical care of the Pope. The house in which he died was considered sacred and became a museum with many, many, maaany religious artifacts and some local works of art. See it for the impressions of a Catholic nobleman’s family life in Granada. It spooked me a little that the tour ended suddenly in the room where the guide proudly waved to the bed on which the saint died.
Main Attraction But of course most people who come to Granada come to see the Alhambra. It attracts 8,000 visitors per day. You need to call or
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book tickets in advance, else risk being sent away even after queuing up for hours. Granada’s history is long and mixed, having been occupied by the ancient Phoenicians, Visigoths and Romans. In 711 A.D, Moorish forces under the leadership of Tariq ibnZiyad took the city and expanded their influence over most of southern Spain for the next seven centuries. The Moorish rulers were enlightened men who valued trade and technology, literature and art, education and scholarship. They built libraries, mosques and castles, including the Alhambra. Although they were Muslims, the many Jews and Christians already in their kingdom worshipped freely. Christians served as envoys for Moorish kings to all over Europe, and Christian scholars and Jewish doctors worked in the court of Muslim leaders, such was the openness and co-existence of the different groups during this time. So the Alhambra is also the most politically correct place in Europe to visit. It is also amazingly beautiful. It is a maze of elegant courtyards with bubbling fountains and lush gardens, with light falling on delicate latticed windows and walls decorated with intricate and flowing Arab scripts. Our guide, dark, sultry Pablo (I promised my editor a story with dark, sultry men) was keen for us to appreciate its true beauty. “It’s impressive now, even with thousands of people walking through,” he waved at the hordes. “But try to imagine these rooms in the old days when tapestries from Africa hung on the walls and carpets from Persia covered the floor. Fill your imagination with sandalwood chests and pretty ottomans, perfume in the air and peacocks strutting across the gardens. Imagine scholars and artists and diplomats arriving from all over the world.” I closed my eyes and imagined a harem languishing to music strummed on the precursors of the guitar. Perhaps that was what inspired Spanish poet Francisco de Icaza to write of a beggar in the city, “Give him alms, woman, because there is nothing like the pity of being blind in Granada.”
Mini-Melting Pot But alas, all good things had to come to an end. Weakened by internal tribal tensions, the last Moorish king Boadul
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Granada is a town made for walking; courtyard of Pisa Family villa; colourful talisman shop; the Alhambra; flamenco costumes for kids come in cheery colours
FROM TOP: Turgranada; hop on a tourist bus if you get tired of walking
GOING TO GRANADA? We list the details
Arriving in Granada Granada-Jaen Airport is really small. When you walk through the exit gate, turn right and walk outside of the terminal building. A bus will be waiting at the bus stop. A one-way ticket into town is only €3 and takes about 20-30 minutes. A taxi will cost between €26-30. For hotels situated north and
west of the Cathedral, get off at the Grand Via de Colon stop. For hotels south and east of the Cathedral, get off at the Acera del Darro stop. Where to Stay There is no lack of accommodation in Granada. Prime location is probably the Parador Hotel Granada (also known as the Parador Granada
surrendered Granada to Queen Isabella and King Fernando (famous for sponsoring Christopher Columbus’ journey to the Americas). One of the first structures they commissioned was the Cathedral, a thick and heavyset building with dark cloisters, an elaborate dome and gold-covered organ. Ironically, one of the most common sights outside the Cathedral today is of tourists getting their names translated into Arabic
San Francisco), which was once a mosque, then a monastery (hence its other name) and part of the Alhambra complex. Its unique location allows guests to wander freely in the lovely Alhambra gardens when the daytrippers have gone. Not to be mistaken with the Alhambra Palace Hotel nearby which is also quite attractive. Parador Hotel Granada (also Parador Granada San Francisco), Real de la Alhambra, s/n Granada, AN 18009, Spain; tel 958 221 440 but book via www.paradores.es But there are also many smaller, local hotels, which are former mansions and come with the prerequisite courtyard with fountains: El Ladron De Agua (or The Water Thief) The name is the title of a poem and the hotel is a 16th century building with views to the Alhambra. Carrera del darro 13 18010 Granada; info@ladrondeagua.com; www.ladrondeagua.com Casa Pilar Hospital de Santa Ana 12; www.hotel casadelpillar.com Where to Eat Restaurante Azafran A modern, light-filled location offering both traditional and new European cuisine. Paseo del Padre Manjon, n°1 (Paseo de los Tristes), 18010 Granada Restaurante Campanario A cheerful restaurant with local Spanish and Mexican
specialities such as cold gazpacho and salmoneira soups, paella and homemade bread puddings. Great location for people-watching. Plaza Pescaderia N°4 Tapas bars Near the town hall, Bar Los Diamante, Bar Abadia, Bar La Sacrista, Bar Rio, Bar El Fogon, de Galicia, Bar Los Copas Where to Shop Alexandre Extremely chic and upmarket quality Italian fashion. Expensive but quality oozes from every piece of fabric. Puerta Real de Espana, 3 and Puentezuelas, 16 Cortefiel A department store with quality clothing housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. 1 Calle Gran Via de Colón Dal Bat The owners are probably unaware that its name is also the name of a popular lentil stew in the Himalayas but Dal Bat showcases beautiful, even spectacular evening dresses. Tucked on a side street called Duende between two main strips, the Acera del Darrio and the San Anton Exit Kids’ clothes in funky colours. Plaza Trinidad 11 Natura Indian and Middle Eastern clothes and colourful accessories. c/Salamanca, 2 yo ka na Looks and sounds slightly Asian but the shop sells Spanish designs. Calle Reyes Catolicos 35
by street artists. Indeed, while modern Spain may be solidly Catholic and a stable member of the European Union, Granada wears its Moorish heritage proudly—shops sell rugs, carpets, paintings, tiles, furniture, clothes with Mussulman (an archaic word for Muslim) designs and North African and Arabic food are staples. Today, Granada still has the highest percentage of local-born Muslims
Medievo This shop right next to the Cathedral is flanked by medieval suits of armour but it actually stocks gourmet food items including tea, preserves, herbs, and spices. Placeta Diego de Siloe; www.medievo granada.com What to do 1. See the Alhambra—of course! Call or book tickets in advance so you’re sure to get in: tel 902 441 221; www.alhambra-patronato.es 2. Watch a flamenco performance. By day a museum, by night a place of entertainment, the cave at Saromonte 89 of the legendary dancer Maria la Canestera fame has drawn royalties and Hollywood stars. There are nightly performances of zambra, the folk dancing of the gypsies. Email cuevacanasteria@yahoo.es; www.granadainfo.com/canastera Flamenco shows are also in the heart of the Albaicin at Sala Vimaambi, Cuesto de San Gregorio, 30, Fridays and Saturdays 9pm and 10.30pm and at Café au lait, Plaza Romanilla, 10, nightly, 8pm and 8:30pm 3. Take an Arabic Bath. Thirty thousand pieces of geometrical mosaics and the murmur of water and located at the foot of the hill of Alhambra palace, this new bath spa is a reminder of Moorish times. Cta. Aceituneros 6, 18010 Granada
in Spain and up in the Albaicin, near the Mirador St. Nicholas, the lovely Mezquita Mayor de Granada, a real, functioning mosque opened in 2003. My German-Seattlite friend and I parted at midnight, full of warm expressions and promises to meet in Munich or Frankfurt. Plaza Nueva was still heaving. We turned, caught each other’s eyes, shrugged, then smiled.
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lifestyle winter vacations Text by kathy khoo | PHOTOGRAPHY BY hokkaido tourism organization, japan national tourism office, yashifumi nishi, www.icehotel.com, www.kakslauttanen.fi, www.rovaniemi.fi
WINTER ICE-CAPADES
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A good way to chill out: Brave the cold and ice with these vacations sure to get the blood pumping
THIS SPREAD, clockwise from main photo: Riding the tracks in Sapporo, Japan; tourists enjoying the crisp, cold air; snowmen, an early sighting of Santa feeding his reindeer with lichen in Rovaniemi, his “official” home; snowboarding and skiing are just two activities you can do on a winter break
‘Tis the Season
Instead of flying south with the birds in search of warmer climes this winter, why not head way north and give the snow and ice a chance? Scandinavia, in the northern part of Europe includes Denmark, Finland, Sweden, Norway and Iceland. These countries experience many months of sub-zero temperatures and have become creative in coming up with many ideas on how to enjoy the winter months to the fullest. There is plenty of fun to be had for all the family, be it indulging in a variety of winter sports, learning and immersing yourselves in a different culture, or appreciating the wonders of unique artwork.
Lapland extends across northern parts of Norway, Sweden and Finland and parts of Russia. The stark and frozen landscape is appealing to nature lovers for its wild beauty. Skis were invented here and snowshoe-walking is common. Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland is the official home of Santa Claus and his elves. Especially at Christmas, Santa’s village is festooned in its joyful and magical best. There is a post office where children from around the world send their letters to Santa, and you can visit his workshop and also the famous sleigh-pulling reindeer. Besides Finland and Sweden, Santa-themed parks and villages can be found in at least six locations in North America and two in Canada. The Sami are the original indigenous peoples of Finland and are also referred to as Lapps or Laplanders. They are traditional nomadic reindeer herders. To experience their way of life, visit and share a warm fire whilst they recount their
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a thick warm rug and the promise of a hot drink by a cosy fire after.
Chill Factor
FROM TOP: Aerial view of Sapporo, bedroom at Ice Hotel
stories and knowledge of the wilderness, sometimes breaking into yoik, a kind of Sami chanting. There are many other native peoples, like the Eskimos, that make the cold north their home. They eke out lives in the arctic regions of Canada, Alaska and Greenland, as well as Siberia, North and Far East Russia.
Northern Exposure Another pastime of Scandinavians is enjoying a stoked sauna. A firm favourite are woodsmoked saunas. A dive into an ice-cold lake or pool or even rolling in the snow after, is part of the ritual.
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Lahti, about 100 kilometres from Helsinki, is the gateway to the Finland’s lake district and is famous for winter sports and skiing events. Locals and visitors alike indulge in favourite activities like icebreaker cruises, skating, sledding, snowboarding, riding snowmobiles, ice fishing and camping and of course skiing. These popular winter sports can be indulged all over the Northern Hemisphere where there is an abundance of ice and snow. There are reindeer and husky rides to be enjoyed and there is nothing more enchanting then a sleigh ride through the woods on a chill winter morning snug under
After a full day of winter activities, retreat to the sanctuary of a unique hotel made of ice or snow. Chilling out is a brr-eeze at these coolest of places on earth. It all started in the little village of Jukkasjarvi in Northern Lapland, Sweden, 200 kilometres from the Arctic circle, where every winter, a spectacular Ice Hotel is built out of ice and snow and every spring, the hotel melts and flows back into the nearby river. Everything, from the furniture to the walls is carved out of ice and snow. Each year, with the coming of spring, the whole structure melts and has to be rebuilt again the following year. Inspired by this European feat of ingenuity, others have caught the ice bug too. Ice Hotels have also been built in Quebec, Canada. In Alaska, USA, northeast of Fairbanks, the Chena Hot Springs Resort has built the Aurora Ice Hotel. Norway has its Alta Igloo Hotel and in Finland, the Igloo village and hotel at Kakslauttanen. The Hotel Igloo Village in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, has a cluster of igloos linked by passages made of snow. Striking ice sculptures line the path leading up to the entrance where guests can sleep in a sleeping bag on ice beds covered with musk ox furs. This comfy and snug mood is enhanced by lit candles, which throw reflected light that dance all around. Sleeping under the stars takes on a whole new meaning when one is watching the Aurora Borealis—Northern Lights—through a snow and glass igloo. The Snow Castle at Kemi, Finland is the largest in the world and includes Mammut Snow Hotel, courtyard, restaurant and chapel. There is another ice hotel, bar and restaurant at Lainio Snow Village, near a ski resort, where there are attractive ice decorations and sculptures and traditional Sami teepees. Everything is carved out of ice and snow including plates and glasses, beds and chairs. Warm reindeer pelts and furs ensure comfort.
Frozen Festivals Then there are the famous Ice Festivals. These world-renowned events attract visitors and artists from around the world. Large and elaborate artworks carved out of ice and snow vie for attention. There are ice and snow sculptures of famous people, favourite
characters and landmark buildings and monuments. Most of these carnivals started out as local community events and have since grown over the decades to become international attractions. One of the more famous ones is the Snow Festival in Sapporo, Hokkaido in Japan. It has been an annual event since 1950. Aside from the breathtaking snow statues and ice sculptures, there are snow slides and mazes to interest the young ones and stages made of snow and ice where entertainment shows are performed. One of the highlights of this event is the crowning of the Ice Queen Beauty Pageant. Not to be outdone, over in Heilongjiang, China, the Harbin Ice Festival is just as celebrated. This festival has been enchanting visitors since 1963 with its amazing ice exhibits and when illuminated at night transforms into a magical wonderland. The lovely ice lanterns in the park are not to be missed and you can also try a spot of alpine skiing and if brave enough, become like the polar bear and have an icy dip with the winter swimmers! The winter carnival held in Quebec, Canada is an elaborate affair with a carved Ice Palace and a float parade to delight visitors. Try dog sled and sleigh rides, snow rafting and even mini-golf on ice. Coming to its 21st anniversary is Ice Alaska in the USA. Held in Fairbanks, the World Ice Art Championships attracts ice carvers and artists from all over the world to try their hand in the competition. In tandem with the contest, there is an Ice Park for the kids to skate and slide and frolic in the snow. Norway has been leading the way in terms of winter sports for centuries and the Ski Festival in Helmenkollen was established way back in 1892 and continues to attract serious ski enthusiasts. The ski jumping competition is an exciting annual event that beckons to spectators and participants alike. There is also an interesting and informative ski museum.
Adrenaline High If more extreme pursuits are more up your alley, then the exciting sports of ice climbing may appeal. This activity has been growing in popularity in recent times, especially in Europe and USA where there are whole events and festivals dedicated to it. At these gatherings, internationally known star climbers come to challenge themselves on
the ice walls, mountains and cliffs. For the truly advanced climbers, there are the ice waterfalls to tackle. Companies specialising in the equipment required to indulge in this activity safely, come and introduce their wares and there are demonstrations and talks. There are annual ice-climbing festivals held all over North America from Colorado to Wyoming and up north in Alaska. For those who’d rather enjoy an exclusive resort experience, try an all-inclusive Club Med ski holiday. A lot of people don’t really associate Club Med with winter activities,
but the resort brand started out as a winter destination and only later branched out to tropical climates. Club Med has 23 snow resorts located in Japan, France, Italy, and Switzerland. Although the weather in winter can be harsh and the tendency and instinct is to huddle in the warmth and out of the cold, with a willing spirit and sense of adventure, there are plenty of activities to enjoy outdoors. So pull on those woolies and head out there and embrace Mother Nature at her coldest, purest, best.
SNOW PATROL
Aside from the festivals, staying in ice hotels, and yes, skiing, here are more activities that you can indulge in the snow
Ice-skating If you can do inline skating (rollerblades), there’s no problem why you can’t learn ice-skating. Done on specially prepared indoor and outdoor tracks or on frozen bodies of water, this is a great way to bond with friends and family. Snowblading Snowblades are about half the length of standard Alpine skis and a bit wider. In snowblading, you don’t use ski poles; you propel yourself by sliding your legs forward. Snowboarding The winter equivalent of skateboarding and the snow counterpart of surfing, this sport is for the adrenalin junkies as it involves mid-air stylings and other radical moves. You can try snowboarding on a slope that is partially or fully covered with snow. Curling Not as popular as other winter sports, curling involves strategy and a keen eye. It’s a twoteam game of four players to a team and played on a rectangular sheet of specially prepared ice. Each
player takes turns sliding heavy, polished granite stones called curling stone down the ice toward the target, called “house.” Two sweepers with brooms follow the sliding rock to their resting place. Snowshoes hiking Trekking and sightseeing are not limited to other seasons. You can do these activities in winter, by putting on snowshoes, which are especially designed for walking on snow. In fact, hikers and runners wear snowshoes to continue their sport in winter. If you’re worried about the weight of the shoes, modern versions are made of lightweight metal. Look for a pair with raised toes for easier manoeuvrability. Après ski For those not into rolling about in snow, you can still indulge in the winter indulgence of après ski. For instance, many of Club Med ski resorts have heated swimming pools and saunas to relax tired muscles. Or go have a spa treatment at the Club Med Spa. Or take a Hammam, the Turkish equivalent of the steam bath. After the pampering, enjoy dinner and a glass of wine.
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lifestyle conversation Text by Jansen Lim | Photography courtesy of Kris LeBoutillier
S o m e p r o f e ss i o n a l photographers capture two archetypal situations at best: the nuances of reticence and dynamics of expressions. The creative output of Kris LeBoutillier, photojournalist, is about these and the many unclassifiable moments in between. In essence, his pictures contribute to the visual sense that the richest joys are at once inherent and hard won, the triumph of love just a hair’s breadth away from the heartbreak of loss. With a sensibility tuned to the minutiae of life and to the rhythm of cultural persuasions and rituals embroidering places and events, he possesses a point of view, as proven in his varied collections of work, which can be amusing, thought-provoking, generous and unfailingly truthful. Kris, 43, is one of the most engaging photographers working in Asia. Whenever the subject of his uncanny eye surfaces, he has a characteristically laid-back way of discharging sentiments with a minimum of fuss. “Most photographers, like musicians and artists, enjoy being praised for their work. I’ll be lying if I say I’m any different. But after relishing that moment in the sun, I tend to shake it off and focus on what I’m passionate about,” he says.
Beginnings That passion started during Kris’ childhood years in Buffalo, New York, a place that’s known for unremittingly cold winters. He recalls many an afternoon spent in the darkroom of the community centre near his home since there was practically not much else to do in winter except ski and sleep. “I had so much fun messing with the equipment, cleaning the negatives, and enlarging photos to different sizes so much
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EYE
OF THE
Intrepid travel photographer Kris LeBoutillier opens up about the life of a voyeur, observing life behind the lens
BEHOLDER
so that I didn’t even realise how awful the winters were,” he chuckles. A journalism degree in the ensuing years followed by a master’s certificate in business and finance did conspire to carve out what he now considers a career deviation, working as a journalist in Wall Street Journal Interactive and subsequently an executive in a public relations company. However, he views those choices as having less to do with the containment of one’s interest by the demands of convention than the absence of discovering one’s true calling. Then one day, no sooner had he attended a photography workshop by David Alan Harvey than he changed career paths. It happened shortly after he had moved to Singapore as a result of a job posting for his wife and, as the hackneyed saying goes, the rest is history.
Life on the Road Kris confesses that becoming a freelance photographer had initially amounted to a compendium of fears and anxieties as he grappled
with self-doubt and financial uncertainties. But deep down, he knew there was no turning back and that passion alone would not help him inch out of the shadows and develop a forward momentum. “I started to think long and hard about how I could make it work, and I realised that there were qualities— apart from being passionate and technically skilled—a professional photographer needed to cultivate in order to make any progress,” he says. “You have to market your services and establish as many contacts as possible while continuing to churn out your best work. What I did was to tackle one hurdle at a time which in turn, I believe, led me to scale the necessary heights.” After which, a steady dr umbeat of assignments began to take root although it wasn’t until Kris published his first book, Journey through Phnom Penh that he gained widespread recognition and attracted a loyal following. Under the auspices of National Geographic Traveler, he managed to publish another book simply titled Vietnam, which offers concentrated doses of visual ingenuity and narrative discipline. Judging from his subjects, it’s no secret that Kris is bewitched by the charms of Asia. His latest publication, On the Iron Rails of Orient is a testament to his love for the region. Chronicling a series of train rides that traverse Thailand,
Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Tibet, the photos presented in this unique collection have a novelty and a measure of bravery working in their favour, which may be attributed to his willingness to take risks, finding the right timing for every shot as well as exercising a wealth of patience—surefire success factors in travel photography. In these pictures, you can almost detect his boundless sense of play. The photos leap in a heartbeat from a girl lulled into deep sleep by the drone of the train engine to young boys who play out their courage by jumping from trains. Not surprisingly, Hue, Vietnam, with its many nuances, is his favourite travel destination. He does not see it as just a selfcontained quaint village so much as a tabula rasa, a throwback to old Vietnam where you can still savour tree-lined streets, old coffee shops and of course authentic Vietnamese street food, which incidentally is also one of his all-time favourites. “I think it’s the freshness and the ingredients used which make the food much tastier than even the ones I sampled in Ho Chi Minh,” he adds. In his spare time, he also does a fair share of cooking— with the caveat, as expressed in his tone of jokey fauxexasperation, that meatloaf is one of the few dishes he has ever learnt to master. Cooking aside, he enjoys biking and catching up on movies whenever time permits.
Woman and child on a train in Cambodia
In a more philosophical vein, he talks about the people who inspire him: his late grandmother—he calls her an “oracle”—who had loved and supported him throughout his life, a longtime pal from Buffalo, named John, on whom Kris could always depend for brutally honest conversations and a friendship built on trust, and an ex-colleague from National Geographic who once wrote him a letter saying something he has since embraced as his life’s mantra—that in order to be successful, one simply has to be virtuous and to stay interested in others’ lives.
Emotional Investment To a large extent, this creed may have driven him to tap into deep veins of pathos and wit for his work. If you were to peruse some of his photos, you will probably notice that they provoke more than they pander, as if he’s mimicking a person’s subconscious, at times restlessly trying to draw information from
all directions, at times observing with serene and unblinking concentration, occasionally puzzled but never bored. “I tend to develop some sort of intimacy with the objects that I’m shooting, or what I would consider an emotional investment, so that I can connect with them through pictures. When you stay interested in people, you become privy to their lives,” he explains. On that basis alone, one may gather that he enjoys socialising and assuming the life of the party. “Situational extrovert!” he interjects without missing a beat, artfully defusing the mendacious assumption with a proclamation, admitting that he rarely opens up his thoughts and feelings to people with the exception of a few close friends and business aides. Truth be told, he doesn’t even display any of his photos in his house. And as much as he values his place in the world of professional photography, he views his greatest achievement as being able to make someone else
happy, for instance, like giving one of his business associates a blownup photo that she’s particularly enamoured with.
Down the Road After more than a decade of shaping photographic paradigms, Kris LeBoutillier sees his career as its own community in the making, shared and constructed with his fans and photo enthusiasts. His advice to emerging photographers is strictly two-fold: know what you’re seeking and always stay true to your own identity. As he gazes toward newer horizons, he has his mind set on a couple of things. One would be exploring how he can contribute to the multimedia arena via films and travelogues, and the other compiling some of his favourite unpublished photos—one of which he took in Jakarta of a man taking a drag from his cigarette with moving traffic in the background—into a book. He remembers getting off the train he was on at that time without hesitation so as to
capture the shot, something that is as much about recognising the inexorable passage of time pertaining to that scene as it is about inhabiting a baptismal approach toward what’s needed to tell a story. “I will probably continue to work till I can’t do it anymore for one reason or another,” he answers when asked about his retirement plans. For someone like Kris who believes in living life more passionately than habitually, not for anything would he allow himself to dawdle with no personal goals in sight. By that token, he hopes people would see the articulation of their own complexity and humanity through his work. But one thing’s for certain. After browsing through an absorbing array of his pictures, you will feel your head shimmying in a reverb of spellbinding, mind-teasing images, the way a playground seems to echo interminably with sounds of laughter and joy, long after the kids have left for the day.
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lifestyle conversation Text and Photography BY weiwen lin
As far as interview locations go, it can’t get any better than Loch Ness—cool air, verdant grounds, and the dark, undulating Loch Ness, Scotland’s famous lake where the eponymous monster supposedly lives. It feels right that I’m talking to Colin Scott at Loch Ness. One is an iconic tourist destination in the Scottish Highlands, while the other is an institution within the Scottish whisky industry. Scott, 59, is the master blender for Chivas Regal: he’s the man who selects the different caskaged whiskies, noses them, and performs the intricate task of blending them to create Chivas Regal’s blended whiskies. Unless you are a whisky aficionado, Scott is unlikely to have you reaching for your pen and autograph book. But Scott downplays his status. “No, I’m not celebrity stuff,” says the lanky Scotsman, flashing a toothy grin that reminds you of that uncle who liked to pull card tricks on you. However, he reveals that he gets mistaken for a star occasionally, at airports and in pubs. “See?” he nudges up the spectacles on his nose, “SvenGoran Eriksson.” He smiles, before chuckling. I laugh, too. He does resemble the former manager of England’s national soccer team.
the
NOSE KNOWS
Colin Scott’s nose is his most important asset. The master blender of Chivas Regal tells us about his passion for the whisky business
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BEING NOSEY Perhaps it was only natural that Scott found his way into the whisky industry, it being a family business. You could even say that whisky is the lifeblood of the family tree: his grandfather and father were involved in the whisky business, although they did not work for Chivas Brothers. “I grew up with whisky, so there was always an interest in Scotch whisky,” he says. However, at one point in his youth, he did ponder about being a RAF
WHISKY 101
Know your single malts from your blended
pilot, only to be dissuaded by his health. When he joined Chivas Brothers in 1973, he never thought he would end up as a blender. “I was a training manager then, involved in all aspects of the work, from distilling to exports to the quality of the packaging,” he reveals. “I got interested in blending when I started working with the blenders. So they checked up my nose and I moved into blending.” “Check up” in this case meant that they gave him a “sniff test”—where he had to nose samples of different whiskies and pick the ones that belonged to Chivas Regal. “It’s a great test,” he says. “It’s all about making sure that your nose is of the standard we expect of a blender.” A day before the interview, we saw his nose at work during a whisky blending session he conducted at Chivas Regal’s Strathisla Distillery in Speyside: He nosed nuanced notes which we failed to detect, prompting me to conclude that skilled nosing is likely two parts genetic gift, one part practice. Scott has his nose insured, but he prefers not to reveal the sum. “Well, what do you think is the value of Chivas?” he quips, smiling.
HIS OWN BLEND Recreating established blends that align with Chivas Regal’s style is already an exacting task, but coming up with a new blend to add to the house’s range is a different kind of challenge, as Scott discovered in 1997, when he created the Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old. “We had to make Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old in its own unique identity, and also try to keep it in the family line and style,” he recalls. “The challenge was that we already have the Chivas Regal 12-Year-
Old, and now you tell [the drinkers] that the new Chivas 18-Year-Old is coming. They’d have an expectation of what it should be. So we had to make sure we met or exceeded their expectations.” The Chivas Regal 18-YearOld—with its fruity aromas and smooth finish—has since gone on to win accolades in its field. Scott’s signature also adorns the bottle. “You have to have confidence,” muses Scott, on blending. “You have to have the conviction and courage to keep working till you get the formula right, and you say to yourself: ‘Yes, that’ll do.’”
FERMENTING THOUGHTS Scott thinks whisky has shed some of its image as a drink “your grandfather drinks in an armchair,” and younger adults these days are willing to splurge on quality tipple. But, he feels that drinkers should be more forthcoming in their own takes on the golden spirit. “I think a lot of people drink different whiskies without appreciating how different they are,” he says. “I give you a glass, and you say it’s great. But you only say it’s great when I say it’s great. So I think we should educate people, to stop and think about what they are drinking.” He is aware that in Asia, some drinkers blend Chivas Regal whisky with green tea— a chic lounge tipple—and he isn’t going to issue an injunction against that. “You enjoy your whisky any way you want it,” he says, revealing that cheeky grin. “I think what’s fantastic is, at the end of the day, you know you bring pleasure to millions of people who drink your whisky. And to me, that’s worth more than the dollars in the bank; you can’t put money on happiness.”
What’s in a name Whisky or whiskey refers to alcoholic beverages that are distilled from fermented grain mash, including barley, malted barley, rye, malted rye, wheat, and maize (corn). With few exceptions, the spelling is Scottish, Canadian, and Japanese whisky (plural: whiskies), but Irish and American whiskey (whiskeys). The different kinds Malt whisky is made from malted barley and distilled in an onion-shaped pot still. Grain whisky, meanwhile, is made from malted and unmalted barley along with other grains. Vatted malt is blended from malt whiskies from different distilleries. Pure malt or just malt whiskies are almost always vatted whiskies. This is also sometimes labelled as “blended malt” whisky. Single malt whisky comes from a single distillery, though it doesn’t necessarily mean it comes from a single cask. Most single malts come from many casks, and different years, so the blender can achieve a taste recognisable as typical of the distillery. Single malts are more often than not named after their distillery—for instance, Glenlivet, Bushmills, Yoichi—with an age statement and perhaps some indication of some special treatments such as maturation in a port wine cask. Pure pot still whisky refers to a whisky distilled in a pot-still (like single malt) from a mash of mixed malted and unmalted barley. It is exclusive to Ireland.
Blended whiskies are made from a mixture of malt and grain whiskies. Most whiskies described as Scotch Whisky or Irish Whisky are blended whiskies. A blend usually comes from many distilleries so that the blender can produce a flavour consistent with the brand (e.g., Chivas Regal, Canadian Club) and will usually not contain the name of a distillery. Jameson Irish Whiskey is an exception and comes from only one distillery. Cask-strength whiskies are rare and usually only the very best whiskies are bottled this way. They are usually bottled from the cask undiluted. Single cask whiskies are usually bottled by specialist independent bottlers, such as Duncan Taylor, Master of Malt, Gordon & MacPhail and Cadenhead amongst others. Ageing Whiskies do not mature in the bottle, only in the cask, so the “age” of a whisky is the time between distillation and bottling. This reflects how much the cask has interacted with the whisky, changing its chemical makeup and taste. Whiskies which have been in bottle for many years may have a rarity value, but are not “older” and will not necessarily be “better” than a more recently made whisky matured in wood for a similar time. Most whiskies are sold at or near an alcoholic strength of 40% abv.
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traveltalk
Text By tony ridley | photograph courtesy of INTERNATIONAL SOS
8 Have something to say? Send your vignettes, experiences or expert advice to terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg
1. How far is your hotel from the office, the airport, meetings, or emergency services such as hospitals or police stations? While the location may be determined via the Internet or a cursory check of the address, many issues will only be able to be assessed upon arrival or with a visual inspection. 2. Upon arrival, observe if there is a balance between profile, accessibility, and security measures. If a hotel appears secure to the casual observer, it more likely has put protection measures in place and is therefore a less attractive target to criminals and terrorists alike.
SAFE
HAVENS A security expert gives exclusive
The attacks on Mumbai last year proved that even exclusive establishments with tight security can be vulnerable to attack
advice on how to stay safe in your hotel
For the majority of travellers, hotel security is often something they don’t consider. Most assume, and most of the time, rightly so, that a good hotel has very tight security measures in place so travellers don’t really take it into consideration when managing their trips. Moreover, the term “security” means different things to many people, involving vastly different interpretations on what even constitutes the most basic of security requirements. In most organisations, the hotels companies book their executives in are determined more by expediency rather than security: The hotel is convenient, or cheap, or the company has a good business relationship with the chain…any number of factors. In my job as Regional Security Director for
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Asia Pacific for International SOS, I know that while major international chains may offer better protection from the majority of threats, they have been increasingly targetted in some countries and what many travellers don’t realise is that the overall state of security within hotels can fluctuate from hour-to-hour, day-to-day, or even seasonally. While terrorism tactics have constantly changed in recent times, the brand or location of the hotel may not be the only basis for why it is targetted. In reality, more subtle or less obvious factors may make a hotel more attractive to criminals or issue-motivated groups. Here’s a quick checklist that can help you assess the security of your hotel and help you should the worst occur:
3. Assess hotel boundaries and neighbours. The boundaries should be clearly defined with measures to ensure only guests or patrons can access the grounds. A good hotel will be inviting to guests but prevent general pedestrian access. 4. Consider pickup and dropoff points. Check to see if the hotel offers appropriate pickup and drop-off points that are consistent for all visitors at all times, not circumvented by special guests, bad weather, or night-time staffing levels. 5. Check the safety features. Hotels should have clearly marked exits, open exits paths, readily available fire-fighting equipment and sufficient staff to assist in the event of an emergency. If not obvious, then ask. If you’re not satisfied with the replies, it could indicate decreased capacity. 6. Privacy measures in place. Safe hotels provide a degree of privacy between guests, and guests and their visitors. You should be able to come and go from your room without being observed or disturbed by other guests. If there
are sufficient delays or measures to prevent access to your room and your possessions, then that is a good first assessment that the hotel is providing adequate safety and security. 7. Rooms should have a number of options for securing the door and viewing the outside corridor so you can preserve your security and privacy. 8. Well-informed hotel staff. Speak to the staff. Emergencies such as fire, medical, or bombings are all incidents that may be faced by hotels and it is vital that all the employees be aware of the plan and are trained to respond. If they can’t answer your questions, they are less likely to be helpful in a serious situation. 9. Regular checks should be conducted on guests and their rooms. You should constantly see hotel employees around the hotel, on the room floors, and the rooms checked periodically. A lack of checks is indicative of insufficient monitoring of guests needs, especially acute in an emergency. No guest should go unchecked or left alone for long durations without the hotel detecting a problem. 10. It should be obvious if a hotel is hosting a major event. Ideally, the event should be private and limited to its invitees and sponsors but many corporations still lack the understanding that these events are also targets. The hotel should have additional resources to meet and greet normal guests and ensure event attendees are screened and assisted. If the hotel appears to be operating without any additional support or assistance, despite the increased activity, this could lack of preparations or consideration should something unexpected happen that would lead to greater risk to guests and attendees.
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LIFESTYLE
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THE LIGHTER SIDE OF THINGS Veteran travellers are always on the lookout for light yet durable luggage. No one wants to lug a heavy suitcase across the airport, especially if you’re rushing to catch a connecting flight. Presenting Samsonite Cosmolite, a luggage line created to combine incredible lightness with absolute strength without forsaking modern design. Thanks to the revolutionary
Curv technology, Cosmolite is extremely light, yet solid and tested with cutting-edge technology, and has a sturdy antiscratch surface—all exclusive features of this new line. Thanks to its four-wheel configuration, it can be manoeuvred 360 degrees while its monotube handle allows an additional bag to be hooked on whilst the interior is lined with blue fabric and has
ART DECO RECOS The 1920s Art Deco period has been a mine of inspiration for many designers. Most recently, Dunhill came up with its Blue Art Deco Collection, inspired by its classic “La Captive” timepiece. Created during the height of the Art Deco explosion of the 1920s, La Captive, one of the many attractive and imaginative timpieces Alfred Dunhill created during the 1920s, was decorated with patterns and had a bold blue design characteristic of the era. Decorated with Art Deco patterns characteristic of the era, La Captive’s design is mirrored in a striking capsule
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collection of cufflinks, keyfob, and fountain pen—perfect for the discerning male.The Rotating Buckle Cufflinks and Rotating Keyfob utilise an action inspired by another ingenious archive Alfred Dunhill timepiece—a belt which boasted a watch face housed in its buckle that could be protectively flipped over during sports to present its casing. Available where all Dunhill products are sold.
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GOOD NEWS FOR THE SNAP-HAPPY a practical zip divider. The lock with TSA function is practical and secure for travelling from and to the U.S. It doesn’t stint on design too. Its wide grooves and rounded shape call to mind the grooves of a seashell and gives the luggage line a harmonious, ergonomic, strong and light look. Available in four colours: black, silver, an audacious cherry red, and an elegant blue. Cosmolite is available in various Spinner sizes and a beauty case.
Heads up, trigger-happy folks. Sony’s latest camera will have you jonesing on its top-of-theline features. The new Sony 850 DSLR camera is designed to take your photography skills to the next level. Featuring a 24.6-megapixel full-frame Exmor(tm) CMOS sensor which is also used in Sony’s flagship 900, the competitively priced 850 delivers true-to-life reproduction with breathtaking resolution. The Sony 850 allows you to achieve high-resolution images easily for large-format printing. As there is no crop factor, wideangle and specialty lenses (such as fisheye lenses) can be used the way they were designed to. Coupled with a new BIONZ
image processor and high ISO sensitivity of up to 12,800, users now have more control during handheld, low-light shooting. What Sony is aiming for: The photographer is in control. Other cool features of the 850 include: SteadyShot INSIDE, which automatically counters unwanted camera shakes. For speed shots, the Sony 850 has improved burst shooting speeds of up to five frames per second. Adding convenience, the camera is made to work with any, Minolta or Konica Minolta AF lenses, including the new DT 30mm F2.8 Macro SAM lens and full-framecapable 28-75mm F2.8 SAM zoom lens.
CLEAR AS CRYSTAL Many of us have resorted to cranking up the volume on our mp3 players to mute distractions in the background, but what happens is that the louder we increase the volume, the less
clear, crisp and authentic the sound quality becomes. What’s the alternative? Try Philips GoGear Muse, which claims to deliver best-in-class sound amongst portable audio
WIRELESS WONDER It’s truly the age of the wireless. Hot on the heels of its U.S. retail launch, GN Netcom, the world leader in innovative headset solutions, launches Jabra HALO Bluetooth stereo headset in Singapore. Compatible with many mobile devices, including Blackberry, Apple’s iPhone and iPod Touch, users of Jabra HALO can enjoy hours of listening to music without missing a single voice call. Featuring a sleek futuristic over-the-head design not seen in any other Bluetooth headset, Jabra HALO is light and comfortable, weighing only 80 grams. When it’s time to put the music away, Jabra HALO has two folding arms with the earpieces
and video players through its proprietary FullSound technology that returns the quality of the CD to your mp3 music by equalising varying tones in the music tracks, so that softer parts can now
be heard clearly. The details and dynamics of the music are untouched so none is lost when played at a comfortable volume. It also comes bundled with a high quality earphone set with noise cancellation technology that weeds out unwanted noises, leaving you to enjoy the complete music experience. Now, you don’t need to suffer through static, muffled sound, and jumping tracks. Be
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it music, videos or audio books, the Philips GoGear Muse is you go-to accessory. You can download favourite videos from the Internet directly to the unit and enjoy viewing them on its 3” Wide-QVGA colour display. With Philips SuperScroll, you can search through large libraries with the double action scroll keys for easy speed control. Available at major electronics stores at S$349 SRP.
INSTANT GRATIFICATION close for easy storage and compact travel in its own case. Open up the arms, the headset automatically turns on and music and audio content begin streaming through again. Designed with multiuse capabilities and with more than eight hours music/talk and 13 hours of standby time, Jabra HALO can connect and sync with two different Bluetoothenabled devices at any one time—from mobile phones, mp3 players, TV, video game consoles or laptops—with a 10-metre wireless operating range. Available at select mobile phone retail outlets throughout Singapore at S$188 SRP.
Is it a camera with a phone? Or a phone with a camera? At this point, it doesn’t really matter because Samsung Pixon12 is superb as both.As the world’s first 12 megapixel full-touch screen camera phone, the Samsung Pixon12 is designed to meet the growing demands of today’s discerning consumers. It boasts a powerful camera equipped with Xenon and Power LED flash to capture excellent photos, enabling you to take excellent photos quickly, view them easily on a wide AMOLED screen and upload them immediately via the wide array of application widgets that connect them directly to your social networking sites. The phone has a dedicated camera power key to give you one-touch access to the camera. Once the camera is on, you can aim and snap, capturing images instantly. What’s more, it also has fast image saving, so you can aim the camera again in two seconds. It has Touch Auto-Focus (AF) with Object Tracking, so you don’t get blurry or out of focus images. Simply select a focal point at a touch, after which the AF function will automatically follow the object and keep it in focus even as it moves across the screen. Moreover, Smart
Auto feature allows users to capture the perfect images as the camera automatically changes the scene and mode functions based on its object, background and lighting. The Beauty Shot feature creates a soft effect to images for smoother looking
skin, which is perfect for portrait shots. The 28mm wide-angle lens also allows users to see the bigger picture and capture a wider perspective. Available at select electronics stores at recommended retail price of S$998.
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THE SCARLET
Tredragon Road, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, TR8 4DQ, United Kingdom www.scarlethotel.co.uk
Text By teÀ villaMor | Photography Courtesy Of www.desighotels.com
Eco-luxe used to be an oxymoron but is now gaining currency as more and more travellers are embracing a greener consciousness while demanding first-class amenities. In this niche enter such establishments as The Scarlet Hotel in Cornwall, which recently opened to rave reviews. The seaside escape was opened by three sisters who wanted to recreate the environment they grew up in, in an eco-luxury hotel. It’s a small place; just 37 rooms arranged over five levels and each with its own private outdoor space—a balcony or a garden or a rooftop area with huge beanbags perfect for stargazing or watching the sun set over the ocean. It’s the perfect place if you’re looking to hide from the world or just want some peace and quiet. If you’re hankering for some company or diversion, Cornwall has the best of British seaside life, thanks to the Gulf Stream, which makes the climate mild practically all year round. There are plenty of things to do—the hotel offers a range of experiences from
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walking Jasper, the hotel dog, on a deserted beach to surfing and food foraging. For the less active, two outside log-fired hot tubs and a natural, reed-filtered swimming pool offer relaxing and unique bathing moments. With a Michelin-starred chef, a stylish interior and an innovative spa, the hotel not only has the features of a top-end hotel but a personal, warm feel throughout, from the salt pots hand-made by the general manager to local Cornish art. Proving that great design and sustainability can go hand in hand, the hotel also boasts an impressive range of green credentials, including solar water heating, natural air conditioning and reptile re-homing—perfect for even the most eco-conscious.
Bold inspirations Anchoring the innovative design touches and eco-luxe philosophy is the name of the hotel. “Scarlet reflected our boldness, perhaps madness, in trying to build a hotel that might change perceptions of what was possible. We
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also wanted this hotel to be warm, deeply comfortable and welcoming, very different to the slick but elitist hotels that pass as luxury,” explains Emma Stratton, co-owner of The Scarlet, on the inspiration of the hotel and name. Certainly, the amenities live up to the promise. The Scarlet’s individually designed rooms are intended first and foremost to capitalise on the dramatic views over the cliff. Rooms come in five categories: Just Right, Generous, Spacious, Indulgent, and Unique, the latter consisting of four rooms with their own private gem gardens influenced by some of the great Cornish gardens. All offer a different type of space, including shell-like viewing pods filled with cushions and accessible via a spiral staircase in the room. Rooms also feature an iPod port, complimentary Internet access and unexpected one-off artworks. Want to feel extremely pampered? Head to the spa, where the ambience is almost as good as the service. Filled with softly lit lanterns, the spa offers a magical environment
where guests can swing gently from large cocoon-like pods hanging from the ceiling, or lie down and listen to local stories in the relaxation space. Treatments are four hours long. Designed to give guests time to decompress, and are based on ayurveda, a system of holistic well-being from India, they include massages and inventive “journeys” using products containing local ingredients such as sea salt, Cornish clay, and locally grown herbs. There is also a sauna, steam room, Hammam and meditation room. In winter, guests can retreat to the indoor pool, cosy up in the couples suite with double bath or storm watch from the spectacular outdoor wood-fired hot tubs. Ben Tunnicliffe, a Michelin star awarded local chef, offers a daily changing menu using locally sourced, home-grown produce. A comprehensive wine list features daily selections to complement the dishes, including seared hand dived St. Austell scallops and pan-fried Jon Dory with roasted Cornish earlies—the local new potato.
A casual breakfast and lunch and delicious deli menu ensure a relaxed dining experience in the day, but in the evening the ambience in the restaurant changes to something more glamorous. In keeping with its local roots, the hotel also offers a Cornish afternoon tea with scones and cream, available anywhere at any time.
The Design Designed by the architect team at Harrison Sutton Partnership, The Scarlet’s building merges with the local environment with its curved shapes and organic facade. With a central “wall” to physically anchor the building to the cliff side, the terrain wraps up against and over the lower bedrooms via a green roof that links the natural-fronting ground level to the sea thrift roof beyond. In rejection of the traditional longcorridor hotel plan, the architects clustered bedrooms together in small groups connected by short spaces, some curved in plan, creating a cosy atmosphere. The Scarlet is a member of Design Hotels. For bookings, www. designhotels.com
AMANIKAN
Amanwana, Moyo Island, Indonesia
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Text By terrie v.gutierrez | Photography Courtesy Of AMAN RESORTS
Around the middle of the year, Aman Resorts announced the debut of the Amanikan, a custom-built 32-metre coastal cruiser that looked like it was transported from an earlier more romantic time. Knowing Aman’s penchant for luxury, it was intriguing to see what they can do with a ship, what with the limited amount of space. Amanikan has the look and feel of early spice-trading vessels fused with luxurious modern amenities as only Aman knows how to deliver. The ship is the newest addition to the fleet at Amanwana, the group’s luxurious tented hideaway on Moyo Island, Indonesia. Amanikan was introduced this summer to launch the 2009 Komodo Expedition, a seven-night adventure through the pristine wilderness and waters of Indonesia’s Komodo National Park.
All aboard! Amanikan features three abovedeck cabins, a foredeck with an outdoor dining and bar area and extensive dive facilities. An expansive master cabin sits at the stern of the upper deck and offers sweeping views from both inside the cabin’s wraparound
windows and a large private sun deck. The second spacious double cabin on the main deck features the same spectacular views from both inside the cabin and from a private balcony with built-in daybed. The cabins are air-conditioned and feature spacious en-suite bathrooms with double vanities, double wardrobes, showers and separate toilets. The master cabin has a king-sized bed and the second cabin features a queen bed. A third smaller air-conditioned cabin on the main deck is also available with a semi-private sun deck in front of the wheelhouse. This cabin has a queen-sized bed that can be converted to two single beds upon request. Amanikan’s principal lounge space is built into the bow of the cruiser and serves as the main gathering spot for daytime sunbathing, pre-dinner drinks, or even a night sleeping under the stars.
No stinting on amenities Amanikan provides a rustically elegant cruising environment. Furnishings are custom-made
of teak, rattan and other locally sourced materials. Dark teak decks are complemented by crisp white fabric for upholstery, giving a very clean, light, yet nautical look to the surrpoundings. All cabin walls are of rattan weave, and a soothing colour palette of taupe, honey, and white with antique brass fixtures and switches in each room provides a tranquil setting in which to relax and retire. Each cabin boasts vaulted ceilings over two metres high, a unique feature for a vast majority of other livaboards and other luxury Phinisi vessels. The sizeable galley is wellequipped for both short- and long-haul trips. Three fullsized upright refrigerators and freezers mean that fresh fruit and vegetables will be available and preserved throughout a multiday excursion. A 70-kilogram ice machine in the below-deck galley provides cold beverages during the heat of the day. An outdoor galley features a bar area to facilitate dinner under the stars or a sunny mid-day lunch. The foredeck includes a dining table that accommodates up to 10 people, along with a portable gas grill for the catch of the day. Dive equipment for up to six
guests, along with equipment for one instructor and a spare are available in the outdoor galley. Sun loungers are located on the private decks of the master and second cabin and in the third lounge area for relaxing, sunbathing, and dining.
Dragonwatching The Komodo Expedition begins with a five-night excursion on Amanikan capped by a twonight stay at Amanwana where guests can enjoy wall dives from the beach and treks to jungle waterfalls, as well as spa treatments and a range of waterand nature-based activities. During their cruise, guests may encounter antediluvian creatures unchanged since prehistoric times on a visit to the only two islands in the world where the infamous Komodo dragon can still be found. The journey cruises through the Nusa Tenggara island chain to some of the world’s most biologically diverse and widely acclaimed underwater snorkel and dive sites. The Komodo National Park is a World Heritage Site in which guests are escorted by park rangers to view Komodo
dragons in their natural habitat. Other wildlife on Rinca and Komodo Islands includes buffalo, deer, monkeys and wild horses. From the colourful reefs of Tatawa Island to the seductive setting and colours of Komodo’s Pink Beach, Amanikan’s island-hopping itinerary will take guests to some of the world’s most pristine marine environments.
Nature haven Amanwana is a haven for hikers, divers, and naturalists. The resort features 20 air-conditioned hardwood floor tents set in a cove on the western edge of Moyo Island. Fifteen kilometres northeast of Sumbawa at the western end of Indonesia’s secluded Nusa Tenggara Islands, Moyo’s 36,000 hectares are home to a variety of bird and animal life, from deer to wild boar, macaque monkeys, banteng (wild ox), sea eagles and osprey. The property is surrounded by tropical rainforest and overlooks Amanwana Bay and the inviting waters of the Flores Sea. Guest facilities include an open-air dining room, a bar, library, gift shop and the Jungle Cove massage area.
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Leelah
Intercontinental
Ananda
A MODERN TAKE ON ANCIENT REMEDIES Savvy spas are combining pampering treatments and ancient techniques with tranquil surroundings. An effective melding of the past and present, tradition and science, the spa treatments of the following hotels will give you a feeling of being one with the universe. Ananda In The Himalayas is an award-winning luxury destination spa resort built
around a Maharaja’s palace estate and located in the picturesque foothills of the Himalayas, the birthplace of India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. Ananda Spa has 24 treatment rooms in a 24,000 square foot space and incorporates the healing principles of the East and the West with a specific focus on ayurveda and aromatherapy,
FOREVER YOUNG
be available in Kuala Lumpur exclusively at The Spa at The Saujana. The Med Beauty system developed by Swiss dermatologist Dr Harald Gerny uses plant stem cells to protect and stimulate skin renewal. Skin and beauty treatments developed by Med Beauty are designed to offer “beauty without surgery” and tangible rejuvenation of the skin. The signature indulgent oriental ritual,The Saujana, is 180 minutes of pampering excellence including an aromatherapy foot polish, The Saujana Jade
The newly opened The Spa at The Saujana is unlike any other spa in Kuala Lumpur. Evolving beyond wellness and beauty palliatives, the spa is dedicated to restoring strength, beauty and balance of mind, body and soul. The extensive facilities include six single spa villas, two double spa villas, two beauty studios, a spa lounge and a spa boutique. All spa villas are located in a tropical rainforest setting scattered around a reflection pool. The future of anti-aging skin care, Med Beauty, will
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along with contemporary spa technology. Must-try: The Spa’s signature Ananda Tranquility includes ayurvedic and wellness consultation, traditional ayurvedic treatments of abhyanga and shirodhara, aromatherapy massage with Indian essential oils, facial, ancient Indian body mask, personalised yoga and meditation sessions, and more. The Ananda Stress Management
programme for those who need to decompress from a toxic workload is a complete holistic program with three meals a day, transfer from airport or train station and use of hydrotherapy facilities. Destress with the ayurvedic and wellness consultation, fitness training session, aromatherapy with Indian essential oils, reflexology, facial, stress release hot and cold stone therapy, personalized yoga and meditation sessions, and more. www.preferred hotels.com The Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach The hotel’s Divya Spa won the Pevonia Asia Spa Award for Best Ayurvedic Spa (Hotel) in 2008. The spa resort specialises in ayurveda with a team of 16 highly trained therapists and dedicated ayurvedic doctors who will give you a check up and recommend a treatment designed just for you. For more info, www. preferredhotels.com Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts recently launched two signature spa treatments using
traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) herbal spa products created exclusively by Eu Yan Sang for the hotel chain’s properties in Greater China. Eu Yan Sang created a range of pre-packed herbs selected based on the principle of Yin and Yang for relaxing and energising respectively, which the spa then mixes with either oil or water during its treatments. Designed for jetsetting executives who need to relax or recharge, each spa ritual combines a body exfoliant, wrap, massage with special oil and herbal tea. Must-try: The relaxing Yin Ritual which involves herbs with cooling properties like geranium, lotus and peppermint, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sweet almonds and grape seed among others. The energising Yang Ritual, on the other hand, boosts the qi (energy) and blood (circulation) while clearing any blockages. Herbs with warming properties are used, like: garden balsam stem, mulberry twig, acorus rhizome, cloves, salvia root, sappan wood, tangerine peel, among others.
massage, Javanese coffee body polish and an Oriental bathing
ritual priced at 780MYR. www. ghmhotels.com
The Saujana
Massage, Traditions D’Orient Organic Facial, Asian-style foot
Mandarin Barber
GO ON A GROOMING GROOVE Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong recently launched Mandarin Men, a complete monthly grooming programme that includes a shave, haircut,
manicure, pedicure, and a choice of either a facial or a massage. Membership can be purchased for three, six or 12 months. “Nowadays it isn’t only the
ladies who are expected to be impeccably groomed,” says Spa Director Lynsey Hughes. “The pressure is on for men too. Mandarin Men makes
In true British style, spa goers can meet at the spa’s Tea Bar, to enjoy tea with French macaroons while indulging in a manicure or pedicure. For people keen to maintain their Zen-inspired inner calm, the Tea Bar reserves a relaxation corner in the mezzanine. The spa also has another quintessentially British experience—the spa butler, London’s first. The spa butler welcomes visitors as they arrive, supervises the initial consultation and proposes made-to-measure service
down to the littlest details. For instance, the choice of music composed especially for So SPA, depending on the mood and preferred therapy, the selection of essential oils and scents diffused in the therapy room, room temperature, a selection of teas to enjoy after the therapy and a choice of pillows. In addition to the five treatment rooms, including two duo spa suites, the area features a traditional Turkish steam bath, Dornbracht RainSky showers for aromatherapy and a private relaxation pool.
it easier for busy professionals to keep on top of their grooming schedule with a balance of ‘must-do’s’ such as a regular shave and haircut, alongside long-term maintenance items such as facials and massages which add to the polished look of a gentleman nowadays.” The programme is available at the Mandarin Barber. With its Old-World charm blended with contemporary know-how, the Mandarin Barber offers gentlemen a comfortable and discreet location, meeting a need that is proving increasingly more popular. “At the Mandarin Barber we have seen a conspicuous increase in requests for head-
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to-toe masculine grooming, including treatments such as manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing and massages,” continues Hughes. “In fact we now have a private room in the barber specifically for men’s treatments. In 2008 we saw a 95% increase in men booking facials compared to 2007 and in only the first six months of 2009 we have already performed 40% more men’s facials than we did in the whole of 2008. Manicures and pedicures have shown similar increases with almost double the number of bookings in 2008 than in 2007, and we expect these figures to increase again in 2009.” www. mandarinoriental.com
SO VEDDY BRIT So SPA by Sofitel recently opened in Europe: at the hotel chain’s London and Marseilles properties. In creating So SPA at Sofitel London St James, the brand teamed up with two undisputed beauty experts, Carita and Cinq Mondes. It is also the very first opening for Cinq Mondes in the UK. Set inside the former head office of Cox’s & King’s bank, a historic building in St. James, the establishment embodies classic British elegance coloured by a zest of French-style hospitality specific to Sofitel. The menu features exclusive therapies such as the Look Good Breakfast for business travellers with little time to spare, whose suits are pressed and shoes polished while they make good use of the hotel’s So Fit gym and steam bath. Martini & Manicure, Pint & Pedicure and a Scrunch (a body scrub and lunch) are other playful twists on the traditional spa experience.
Therapy room
Mani-pedi area
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Back in the day, hotel restaurants were bland serviceable eating places that guests only patronise because either it was convenient or too late to find anything better. Today, hotel restaurants are pushing the envelope when it comes to innovative cuisines and even design aesthetics. Here, some establishments that caught our eye—and our palate:
Specialty dishes from Chef Dane Clouston
EPICURIAN DELIGHTS Shanghai foodies should have reason to celebrate. There’s a new addition to the city’s sophisticated dining scene. Jing’An recently opened its doors at The PuLi Hotel and Spa, on level two of the newly opened luxury hotel adjacent to JingAn Park. The 120-seat restaurant uses only the best seasonal produce, and feature the best of seasonal cuisine.
Chef Dane Clouston’s creations reflect his travels and passion for food as he takes on classics with a twist. His personal interpretation of breakfast, lunch and dinner creates three distinct dining experiences for a guest at the restaurant. Breakfast selections highlight healthy “home-cooked” dishes. The dishes range from Western to a selection of Asian
favourites, complemented by an extensive bakery selection handcrafted in collaboration with leading German master baker Ralph Gottschalk. Lunch is a casual affair of classics and unpretentious bistro fare with Dane’s own twist. Classic home comforts from 1970s-style prawn cocktail to Dane’s take on traditional fish and chips cater to a light, delicious
and comforting mid-day meal. To accommodate to the timestrapped businessman, Jing’An has an Express Business Lunch, offering two- and three-course set lunches at RMB188 and RMB220 respectively. For dinner, Jing’An offers Chef Dane’s signature dishes, including Black Ravioli With Crab and Butterscotch, Lamb Saddle and Lamb Filo, Chickpeas, Spices and Pomegranate and Roasted Coral Trout Fillet, Salt Cod Brandade, Fennel and Clams. Running along the theme of three distinct dining experiences for the guest, Jing’An’s interiors are separated into three areas, a formal restaurant, a central library and bistro cum relaxed lounge area.
A DECADE OF GOOD FOOD When Sol Kerzner and acclaimed Chef Alain Ducasse joined forces in 1999, it marked the start of the success story of Spoon des Iles at One&Only Le Saint Géran in Mauritius. Now 10 years after he opened the first Spoon outside of Paris, the celebrated chef is heading back to the island to join guests and staff alike for a series of culinary celebrations. Marking this special anniversary will be the “10 Years, 10 Dishes, 10 Wines” concept, highlighting Ducasse’s personal choice of food and wine combinations that have truly defined the restauran. O n 6 - 8 D e c e m b e r, epicureans will be able to catch
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Now 10 years after he opened the first Spoon outside of Paris, Chet Alain Ducasse is heading back to One&Only Le Saint Géran
this Michelin-starred master in action during three food-filled days. Overseeing all operations, Ducasse and his team will share the sophistication and flair of the Spoon menu with guests who’ll be able to join head chef Romain Meder in the restaurant’s kitchen for cooking classes.
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The celebrations will culminate in a spectacular gala dinner set in the most glorious of surroundings. Guests will be able to feast on specially created dishes such as Mauritian palm heart ceviche and Lapsang Souchong Soup, all matched with wines carefully chosen by
the resort’s sommelier Jerome Lucas. To mark this occasion, One&Only Le Saint Géran has created a special package: For €200/person, guests may join a private cooking lesson with Spoon’s head chef Romain Meder—inclusive of lunch with a glass of wine, recipes, cooking
hat and apron as well as dinner at Spoon des Iles (exclusive of beverages), one “Spoon des Iles on the Beach” lunch box and a Spoon cookbook signed by Alain Ducasse himself. Package is valide from 20 November to 20 December 2009. www. oneandonlyresorts.com
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Great sandwich makings–––from quality breads (LEFT) and ham (RIGHT)–––can be found at this market
TO MARKET, TO MARKET If you’re in London, one stop you need to make is the Covent Garden Real Food Market, now firmly established as a top, weekly foodie stop-off for Londoners. The West End’s only openair market, you can not only pick up gourmet treats for lunch, but also fresh produce to
prepare at home in the evenings, will continue trading until late December, with additional dates added to coincide with Covent Garden’s role as the hub and a founding partner of the first ever London Restaurant Festival (LRF). The popularity of the market, introduced permanently following
short summer runs in 2007 and 2008, is further evidence of the strength of Covent Garden’s food offering. Recent signings to the Market Building have included Tea Palace, Le Pain Quotidien and Ella’s Bakehouse, the quality cupcake outlet founded by seminal 90s supermodel Lorraine Pascale.
MEAT OF THE MATTER Trendy International steakhouse The Meat & Wine Co recently opened its first outlet in Asia—in Beijing, no less. The swanky modern steakhouse concept was the vision of two of South Africa’s most successful restaurateurs, Costa Tomazos and Bradley Michael, who wanted to provide a distinctive steakhouse dining experience appealing to meat lovers in a sophisticated yet relaxed environment. “This has been a much anticipated event,” says Bradley Michael, “We have always had our eye on launching a flagship in Asia to complement the huge
successes of our other outlets in the Middle East, Europe and South Africa.” The chic Meat & Wine Co Beijing serves cuisine that stays true to its name. The restaurant specialises in prime cuts of superior quality beef, complemented by an extensive range of excellent wine. Guests can expect premium quality and the freshest of produce as their “From the Pasture to the Plate” philosophy allows the restaurant to deliver the freshest meat possible. Executive Chef Ferdy uses the freshest and best products possible, creating an
exciting and constantly evolving menu. In keeping with its motto of “The usual in the unusual way,” the new menu also offers a range of seafood, poultry and vegetarian dishes for variety. Designed by award winning designer Patrick James Waring and his Singapore-based design firm, Silverfox Studios, The Meat & Wine Co Beijing takes the steakhouse concept beyond the traditional into the trendy and modern mainstream. A unique trademark of the restaurant is Beijing’s first ever “wine tunnel” leading to the wine cellar and private dining rooms.
FROM LEFT: Wine Cellar private dining room; steak grilled to perfction
SOCIETY NEWS Whilst most businesses in the F&B industry are cutting back on costs wherever possible, The Society Group, is using the downturn in the economy to expand its reach over the next six months. Well-known for popular Dempsey Hill restaurant The Prime Society, savvy businesswoman Ingrid Prasatya has taken the alternative approach and is casting her net wider by opening seven new offshoot projects in various profiled locations around Singapore. “Downturn or not, both locals and expats alike are always on the lookout for goodquality food, good service and of course value for money. There is no better time than the present to offer these great options,” she says. Watch out for these new entrants into Singapore’s dining scene: The Society Bistro, which opened recently at One Fullerton “…is designed to cater for an array of dietary needs and consumer tastes,” says Ingrid. Society Bar is next, opening right next door to the OCBC
FROM TOP: Chef Lucas McMillan; Rocket Feta Beefroot Salad
Centre in Chulia Street replacing local entrepreneur Michel Lu’s venture Superfamous. Aimed at suits within the area Society Bar will offer tailor-crafted gourmet sandwiches by day and become a hip hangout at night with “Society-signature” styled drinks such as Marteani’s and cocktails with homemade infusions. Over at ION Orchard is The Nautilus Project, with world-class Australian Chef Lucas McMillan producing Contemporary Pan-Asian cuisine as many of the dishes evolve from Mediterranean, California and South East Asia influence. Next up: The Society Bistro at One Raffles Link, and other outlets in the pipeline.
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traveldeals
∗ Terms and conditions apply.
Hong Kong: Stay Longer, Save More Experience Park Hotel Hong Kong’s new look with its amazing package and surprise gift. Stay in style and get the third night at 50% off! For only HK$1,288/night in a Superior Room, you get: a free breakfast, local calls, unlimited Internet access, 25% off on food and beverages, and 20% off on laundry and dry-cleaning; for HK1,588/night in a Premier Room, you get: free breakfast, local calls, cocktails at the Lobby Lounge from 6-7:30pm, laundry and dry-cleaning services for one suit, mini-bar refreshments, use of in-room fax machine, unlimited Internet access, 20% off laundry and dry-cleaning services, 25% off food and beverages, and late checkout till 6pm. Promo valid until 15 November 2009. For more details, please call (852) 2731 2116 / (852) 2366 1398 or fax (852) 2369 1877 / (852) 2739 7263; email sales.phhk@parkhotelgroup.com; www.parkhotelgroup.com
Hong Kong: Diner’s Special To celebrate its opening, Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees located near the former Kai Tak Airport is offering a Stay and Dine Room Package at rates starting from HK$988++/room/night. Available until 31 December 2009, the offer includes HK$500 dining credit at selected hotel outlets, daily newspaper, shopping privileges at SOGO Tsimshatsui, use of fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna, and use of hotel shuttle bus service to MTR stations and bustling Tsimshatsui. For reservations, book online at www.promo.hp8d.harbour-plaza.com, call (852) 3900 3000 or email rsvn.hp8d@harbour-plaza.com
Shanghai: Opening Special To celebrate the hotel’s opening, the InterContinental Shanghai Puxi has a special introductory rate of RMB980+15% with complimentary breakfast for two, valid until 31 March 2010. Guests will enjoy the exquisite deluxe rooms featuring 47” LCD televisions, broadband Internet, and stylish bathrooms including 15” televisions and deluxe toiletries. For more details and bookings, please visit www.intercontinental.com or dial 400 886 2255.
Hong Kong: Early Christmas Promo Three nights for the price of two are on offer at The Minden Hong Kong from now until the New Year as part of its great value winter promotion. Stay three consecutive nights in a Deluxe Room but pay for just two—saving up to 33%. (Deluxe Room rates start from HK$900/night.) The deal is available throughout November and December. Included in the package is a complimentary daily Continental breakfast, a complimentary Winter or Christmas cocktail at the hotel’s stylish lounge bar Courtney’s, and airport transfers by deluxe airport hotel coach SkyeXpress at just HK$100 per person, 4pm late check out, free in-room local calls and broadband Internet, and a 20% discount on minibar purchases, laundry, dry cleaning, and service charge for IDD calls. For reservations, tel (852) 2739 7777/2739 3777 (fax); email rsvn@theminden.com; www.theminden.com
New York: Big Discounts In The Big Apple We know you never thought a New York City hotel room would be on sale. But thanks to these six Hilton hotels in New York City, the Big Apple has never been more affordable. This exclusive package includes discounted room at Doubletree Guest Suites Times Square, Doubletree Metropolitan Hotel, Embassy Suites Hotel New York City, Hampton Inn Manhattan Times Square North, Hilton Garden Inn New York/West 35th Street or Hilton Garden Inn Times Square—plus, coupon valid for buy one/get one free admission to Madame Tussauds New York! This package is only available for a limited time. To book your stay, log on to www.hiltonfamily.com/sale or call 1-800-HILTONS and mentioning plan code NX or NX1. Minimum four-night stay required.
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| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg
∗ Terms and conditions apply.
Singapore: Elite Luxe Relax With breathtaking views of Capella Singapore’s gardens or the beautiful South China Sea, guests in Capella’s villas enjoy delightful vistas from the comfort of their luxury accommodations. Experience these pool villas and benefits until end November 2009 through the Elite Episode Experience: a onebedroom villa with private plunge pool at S$1,000 per room (normally S$1,800 per night), minimum two nights’ stay; in villa breakfast for two; 1.5 hour spa treatment for two at Auriga spa; late check-out; complimentary wireless Internet access, five pieces of laundry pressing per stay, light snacks and refreshments at the Library and in-room refreshments; 24-hour Capella Personal Assistant service & access to the fitness centre; priority bookings for Capella guests at Sentosa Golf Club, one of Asia’s top championship golf destinations. Email reservations.singapore@capellahotels.com and quote Elite Episodes.
Worldwide: For Magnifique Women Now women can go on an unforgettable travel adventure with their friends with Sofitel hotels. Enjoy a relaxing holiday in participating Sofitel hotels around the globe: Paris, Rome, London, New York, Marrakech, Beijing, Los Angeles…you name it! This offer includes: accommodation, in-room breakfast, a gift voucher for a minimum of €50/$50/stay to spend on any boutique item in the hotel or at any of the participating outside venues, two cocktails per stay at the hotel bar, a guest room upgrade depending upon availability, late checkout. Offer valid worldwide at Sofitel hotels. For a full list of the participating hotels in this programme, go to www.sofitel.com
Koh Samui: Island Meeting Instead of being surrounded by noise and pollution, go to an island where you can also have a business meeting while indulging in sun, sand, and sea breeze. Rennaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa has the perfect meeting package. For 1,300++ baht/person/day, you get: half day meeting space with full setup (bottled water, notepads, pencils and candies); one coffee break; luncheon with organised menu offering at Banana Leaf restaurant; standard audio visual equipment. For 1,500++ baht/person/day, the package includes: Full day meeting space with full setup; two coffee breaks; lunch with organised menu offering at Banana Leaf restaurant; standard audio visual equipment. The meeting packages are available for a minimum of 10 participants and valid until December 31, 2009. www.marriott.com
Kuala Lumpur: Smart Savings Get more while spending less at Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur. Book 30 days in advance to take advantage of the Smart Savers package which includes an overnight accommodation in a Deluxe room and enjoy savings of up to 25% off the best available rates. The contemporary, stylish and functional rooms are equipped with broadband dataport, two IDD phone lines with voicemail and satellite TV. Also included in the package is a healthy and wholesome breakfast created in partnership with three-star Michelin Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Latest Recipe. The Smart Savers promotion is valid until 31 December 2009. Visit lemeridien.com/kualalumpur, email: reservations.lmkl@lemeridien.com or call reservations at (603) 2263 7888.
Taiwan: Winter Exclusive For Readers! Take advantage of Gloria Prince Hotel Taipei’s Winter Campaign promo from 1 December 2009-28 February 2010. For US$140/night on weekdays and US$127/night on weekends (Saturday, Sunday, and Monday), stay in an Executive Room and get the following: welcome fruit on arrival, complimentary daily newspaper, broadband access. And on 29-31 December and 1-3 January 2010, get a special rate of US$173/night. Rates are inclusive of 5% tax and 10% service charge. These rates are for room only. Buffet breakfast is available at US$15/person. For enquiries, www.gloriahotel.com
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new rooms bulletin flight plan diary of events
New hotels are opening their doors to guests. Here are some that are ready –– or almost ready –– to provide second homes to them.
THE UPPER HOUSE
INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI PUXI Opening late autumn, the hotel is ideally situated in Shanghai’s central business district with walking distance from the northern transportation hub, making it an ideal launching point for business and leisure. Number of rooms: 533 rooms and suites, located in two glass towers. At a minimum floor area of 45 square metres, the rooms provide ample space where guests can unwind in total luxury. All are appointed with
conveniences essential to the guests’ comfort and pleasure. MICE facilities: State-of-art meeting facilities, with a wide range of venue sizes makes the hotel the perfect choice to host international conferences, wedding ceremonies and other special events. Other draws: Four new specialty restaurants—action stations and international favourites at Ecco, contemporary Chinese at Jade, authentic
Japanese cuisine at Koi, prime steaks and luscious grills at Prime 500. The Avenue Lobby Lounge offers drinks, snacks, afternoon tea and live entertainment every night. In addition to a 25-metre indoor swimming pool and a well-equipped fitness centre, Spa InterContinental has a comprehensive range of both traditional spa rituals and modern foot reflexology, complimented by Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room. www.ihg.com
Swire Hotels’ very new small intimate hotel in Hong Kong, rises above Pacific Place in Admiralty. The month-old hotel is an “Asianinfluenced residence reminiscent of a private residence,” says design wunderkind Andre Fu. Number of rooms: 117 spacious guest rooms—21 suites and two penthouses— each designed to provide a sense of understated luxury. The contemporary monochromatic design features natural timber, shoji glass, limestone and lacquered paper panels. All rooms have two colour schemes: “Bamboo” with solid
ash flooring, bamboo timber and lilac upholstery; “Celadon” featuring green tea upholstery, limed oak flooring and creme oak timber. The room layouts offer abundant space including 300 sq ft bathrooms with walkin rain showers, dressing areas and freestanding bathtubs with breathtaking panoramic harbour or island views. Other draws: Level 49, which showcases the architecturally intriguing Sky Bridge, with its skylight above a 40-metre high atrium that leads to the Sky Lounge and signature restaurant & bar, Café Gray Deluxe. www.swirehotels.com
art audio-visual equipment and unique table settings. Other draws: Signature restaurant WHISK is headed by award-winning Chef Justin Quek. The Singaporean chef has
trained under some of Europe’s most legendary chefs, including Roland Mazere, Jean Bardet and Michael Roux Junior at Le Gavroche and Waterside Inn in England. Modern Cantonese dining is served at Cuisine Cuisine at The Mira; Japanesestyle buffet at resto,Yamm; coffee and chocolate lounge COCO, bar, Room One. Also noteworthy, The Mira Club, with purple-themed rooms and suites. Members have exclusive access to the Club lounge, ideal for business meetings, where guests can enjoy concierge services, private check-in, complimentary breakfast, all day and night nibbles and drinks. www.themirahotel.com
THE MIRA HONG KONG Showcasing cutting-edge contemporary design styled for “today’s fast-living urban travellers,” this chic new lifestyle hotel on Nathan Road is touted as one of Hong Kong’s most upscale and technologically advanced hotels. Number of rooms: 492 uniquely themed guestrooms, all customised with a personalised touch. Rooms come in a choice of red, green or silver colour schemes—all with stylish, handpicked designer fabrics including an “Egg Chair” by Arne Jacobsen to match each colour scheme, and rain showers. The Mira Hong Kong Suites reflect the hotel’s passion for style and pared-down luxe,
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with The Grand Mira Suite, The Platinum Suite and six other specialty suites, plus the signature Mira Suite 70, 80 and 100, named after their generous size in square-metres, and comprising 56 suites in total. Other room amenities: 40-inch LCD TVs, 500GB Sony PC/entertainment centres, Bose in-room soundscapes, complimentary high-speed Wi-Fi and wired Internet, and a unique “My Mobile” Nokia phone service, which allows guests to be contacted and stay in touch anywhere in Hong Kong. The “My Mira” service provides personalised concierge assistance at the touch of a button.
| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg
MICE facilities: Has 14,000 square feet (sq ft) of conference and meeting facilities, including a spectacular ballroom featuring a 25,000 lighting combination of LED lighting, state-of-the-
Aman Resorts hosts 2009 Beijing Wine Classic
Aman at Summer Palace, Beijing hosts an unprecedented weekend of food, wine, and culture at the inaugural 2009 Beijing Wine Classic, an annual Downtown Vancouver event which focusses on different wine regions around the globe. This year features California’s most notable producers in a three-day event marked by extensive panel discussions hosted by winemakers, tastings, dinners and a silent auction. Guests can choose from a menu of ticket offerings ranging from a three-night stay at the resort and full festival participation to day passes for attendance at specific events. The Classic begins on 13 November with a welcome reception followed by a Gala Opening Ceremony and Dinner featuring many of California’s
finest sparkling and still wines. Itinerary for the next day includes an early morning tai chi class; a breakfast buffet; a lecture on “Anything but Chardonnay,” exploring the other white grape varietals grown in California. A dim sum lunch with distinctive wine pairings will be followed by an afternoon of lectures including “California Chardonnay—Napa vs Sonoma,” “Pinot Extravaganza—Napa vs Sonoma” and “Imperial Culture Workshop (served with “afternoon wines”).” Dinner will highlight Kobe beef and cult Cabernets. Day Three features an early tai chi class, followed by breakfast and two lectures on “Quirky Reds & Whites” and “Charbay Vodka & Whisky Cocktails.” An early afternoon brunch precedes a live
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Reduced ticket prices for acclaimed West End musicals
auction and closing ceremony. There will be wine tastings during each of the seminars. Participating wineries include Harlan Estate, Bond Estates, Chateau Montelena, Staglin Family Vineyard, Flowers Vineyard & Winery, Honig Vineyard & Winery, Calera Wine Company, Fisher Vineyards, Howell Mountain Vineyards, Gargiulo Vineyards, Claudia Springs Winery, Schramsberg, Peay Vineyards, Lail Vineyards, Patz & Hall and Rudd Winery and Vineyards along with Charbay spirits. For more information, call (86) 10-5987-9999 local 7601/7606 or email Cecilia Leong, Reservation Manager at cleong@ amanresorts.com. For specific event inquires please contact wine@amanresorts.com.
Now is the time to watch that critically acclaimed play in London’s West End. The London theatre website, www. westendtheatre.com recently launched a major new promotion offering thousands of reduced-price tickets to West End musicals this autumn. Discounted tickets include recent Tony award winner Billy Elliot (£22.50 off), Olivier award-winning musical Jersey Boys (25% off), big-budget and big-haired musical Hairspray (£27.50 off), Whoopi Goldberg’s new production of Sister Act starring Patina Miller and Sheila Hancock (£23 off), movie-
to-stage show Dirty Dancing (£20 off) and Grease starring Dancing on Ice winner Ray Quinn (£21 off). To celebrate the new season of plays and musicals, westendtheatre.com has also reduced ticket prices on new shows including The Rise and Fall of Little Voice starring X-Factor runner-up Diana Vickers, Joe Orton bio-play Prick Up Your Ears starring Little Britain’s Matt Lucas, Sean Mathias’ major new production of Breakfast At Tiffany’s starring Anna Friel and a new stage adaptation of The Shawshank Redemption starring The Wire’s Reg E. Cathey.
gets guests special entry into the hottest private members’ clubs in town, privileges at cool restaurants and bars, at fashion and lifestyle stores which carry fun and great designer labels, and at spas and salons. What’s on offer? A unique range of complimentary perks and privileges—including happy hour drinks all night; access to exclusive clubs; complimentary wine and Champagne; harbour
cruises on the aqua luna junk; cash coupons; and dining, shopping, and spa discounts.The card is presented to guests on check-in at the hotel and these special benefits are extended as long as they are at JIA. The hotel is the first in Hong Kong to offer such an extensive range of complimentary perks in addition to the many complimentary “extras” at the hotel itself. Among the partners for
the JIA Insider Access Card are: private member clubs dragon-I, Halo,Volar and Kee; lifestyle store SONJIA; The Drawing Room, Bo Innovation, The Pawn, The Press Room, the Aqua, Café Deco and LKF group of restaurants and bars; and well-known fashion brands such as JOYCE, I.T. Jean Paul Gaultier, Maria Luisa, Y’s for Yohji Yamamoto, Anna Sui, Hugo Boss, Diesel, 7 for all Mankind, Etro and Furla.
JIA launches Insider Access Card The Philippe Starck-designed boutique hotel JIA Hong Kong recently launched its JIA
Insider Access Card, which gives guests a true insiders’ experience of the city. The card
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Check out the latest flight routes and services of the various airlines of the world.
Continental Airlines announces new benefits to OnePass Program
Mr. AK Ravi Nedungadi, Director, Kingfisher Airlines Ltd presents a model of the airline’s brand new Airbus A330-200, widely billed as the best A330 ever built for any airline, to Airport Authority Hong Kong CEO, Mr. Stanley Hui Hon-chung.
Kingfisher Airlines Launches Inaugural Hong Kong Flight Kingfisher Airlines, India’s only five-star airline rated by Skytrax, recently launched its inaugural flight from Hong Kong, providing more choices for discerning travellers flying between India and Greater China. The first daily non-stop flight to Mumbai aboard a brand new Airbus A330-200, widely billed as the best A330 ever built for any airline, was filled to capacity. The Hong Kong flight marks expansion into East Asia for Kingfisher Airlines. Kingfisher will also launch flights between Singapore and Mumbai. The launch of flights from India to Hong Kong and Singapore marks the first time that Kingfisher Airlines will fly to East Asia. Hong Kong will be the sixth international destination to be served by Kingfisher Airlines. “A growing number of travellers from Hong Kong and Greater China are demanding more choice, greater luxury, and better value for money when choosing flights for business
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and leisure trips to India. There is tremendous potential for this route, which Kingfisher Airlines is committed to developing with its new aircraft and superior service. With our award-winning service, our flights will offer guests who travel on these routes, a truly five-star, world-class flying experience,” said Mr. AK Ravi Nedungadi, Director, Kingfisher Airlines Limited, who is also President and CFO,The UB Group. Configured in two classes with 30 seats in Kingfisher First and 187 seats in Kingfisher Class, the spacious full-length wide-bodied twin aisle cabin of the A330-200 and outstanding service makes flying feel a more natural and pleasurable experience. Kingfisher Airlines has a fleet of 71 aircraft and flies to 65 cities in India and six international destinations. It has over 360 daily departures on its domestic route network with112 flights a week on its international route network.
| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg
Continental Airlines recently announced changes to its OnePass frequent flyer program, adding new benefits for its customers. Some of the changes occurred in conjunction with the airline joining Star Alliance last month. Continental’s OnePass members will enjoy reciprocal mileage earning and redemption opportunities with Star Alliance’s 24 member airlines and will be able to connect to more than 950 cities all over the world. “With our entry into Star Alliance along with several program changes, customers
will find the OnePass program to be better than ever,” said Mark Bergsrud, senior vice president of marketing programs and distribution at ContinentalAirlines. When Continental joined Star Alliance, OnePass Platinum and Gold Elite members also became Star Alliance Gold members, gaining recognition and rewards across all member airlines in addition to OnePass benefits. Platinum and Gold Elite members will have access to more than 800 lounges worldwide with any Star Alliance member airline, regardless of class of travel. Additionally,
Bombardier and Asia Jet Introduce New Challenger 605 To Hong Kong
Chris Buchholz CEO of Metrojet & Hong Kong Aviation Group, Justine Lee Firestone CEO & Founder of Asia Jet, David Dixon VP Bombardier Asia and Jessie Poon Metrojet Flight Attendant
Bombardier Aerospace and Hong Kong-based Asia Jet have agreed to introduce a brand new large-cabin, mid-range Challenger 605 into charter service in Asia. This 2010 Challenger 605 aircraft will be based at the Hong Kong Business Aviation Centre at Chep Lap Kok International Airport, where it will be operated and maintained by Asia Jet’s exclusive operating partner, Metrojet. The aircraft
will be available to Asia Jet Cardmembers beginning third quarter of 2010. The Bombardier Challenger 605 corporate aircraft is the next step in the continuing evolution of the world’s best selling family of large business jets. Next-generation innovation, on a tried-and-true platform that has seen Challenger become the backbone of the worlds’ most esteemed corporate fleets.
Platinum and Gold Elite members will receive an extra baggage allowance of up to three bags or 44 additional pounds (20 kg) on both Continental and Star Alliance member airlines and will receive priority services including priority airport check-in, boarding and baggage handling across the network. In addition to these benefits, upcoming changes to the OnePass program include fewer fees for Platinum Elite members, no more Saturday-night stay required for reward travel and 100% Elite Qualification Miles and Points earnings on any ticket regardless of where it was bought or issued.
By design, it provides corporate and government leaders with the widest—and indeed, one of the quietest—cabins in the industry, in which passengers can work or rest in total comfort and tranquillity. Combining superior strength, versatility and reliability with cost efficiency matching that of an appreciably smaller jet, the Bombardier Challenger 605 corporate jet is capable, confident and infinitely versatile, allowing leaders to act with swift effectiveness anywhere in their world. “This remarkable business jet aircraft, with its impressive performance and large-cabin comfort features, will allow our Asia Jet Cardmembers to experience how effectively and efficiently the Challenger 605 can serve the requirements of this region,” said Justin Lee Firestone, Founder and CEO of Asia Jet.
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travelnotes
november
(Until 29 Nov) SINGAPORE: VICTOR/VICTORIA Esplanade Theatre International jazz sensation Laura Fygi stars in this star-studded, Asian premiere of the Broadway classic. This is the masquerade musical comedy you don’t want to miss! From white lie to black tie. For more details, log on to www.victorvictoria.com.sg
SINGAPORE: SWISSOTEL VERTICAL MARATHON Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore Packed with adrenalin and exhilaration, this highly-anticipated annual event will elicit the tenacity and determination of 1,600 participants as they conquer all 1,336 steps of 73 storeys. A brand-new category called the Lovebirds’ Challenge will witness more than 65 pairs of lovers taking their relationships to unexplored new heights, with potential marriage proposals awaiting atop the helipad, upon completion of the vertical race. Race starts 7am; For more info, karen.chan@ swissotel.com
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(Until Dec 19) SINGAPORE: BEAUTY AND THE BEAST Drama Centre Theatre A modern retelling of the classic fairy tale, Beauty and The Beast told in pantomime. Features Emma Yong (one third of the Dim Sum Dollies) as Beauty and RJ Rosales (Chang in Chang & Eng) as the Beast. Lim Kay Siu (Frankie Foo in Phua Chu Kang Pte Ltd) stars as Big Boss Bong, Beauty’s Father, while the everversatile Chua Enlai slips into the heels of Desiree, one of Beauty’s hysterically vain sisters.
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(7.30pm) SINGAPORE: AN EVENING OF ROMANTIC AND TRAGIC LOVE Esplanade Concert Hall Singapore Lyric Opera presents its November offering An Evening of Romantic and Tragic Love featuring opera’s great romances and tragedies. Bringing together an assortment of musical passages from celebrated and heartrending operas, the concert provide audience with some of the most memorable melodies and arias from from Giacomo Puccini’s La Boheme, Georges Bizet’s Carmen, Giuseppe Verdi’s Aida and Il Travatore, Ruggero Leoncavallo’s I Pagliacci and Christoph Willibald Gluck’s Orfeo and Euridice, among others.
Credit: James O’Mara
BEIJING: HILTON BEIJING’S FOOD & WINE EXPERIENCE Hilton Beijing Back for the 12th year, this is a whole day affair of wine and food tasting presented by the hotel and over 100 world-famous food and wine suppliers such as Danone Premium (Evian), Montrose Food & Wine Ltd, Jointek fine wines, Pernod Ricard China Trading Co. Ltd, Aussino Fine Wine, and Sri-Lanka tea. Nearly 1,000 different labels from some of the world’s best wine regions are for sampling pleasure. Hilton Beijing Head Sommelier Julia Zhu, together with guest speakers, will be there to share useful knowledge and helpful tips about wine appreciation with guests. Guests may indulge themselves in seven hours of wine appreciation, coffee and chocolate tasting.
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(Oct Until 6 March 2010) SINGAPORE: GUNTHER VON HAGEN’S BODY WORLDS Science Centre, Singapore The latest instalment of the groundbreaking anatomical exhibitions of real human bodies, visitors to The Cycle of Life learn about health and the science of the human body, from the human skeleton to the key organ and muscular systems. Using Dr Von Hagens’ patented invention of Plastination to preserve specimens for medical education, Body Worlds is the only exhibition with a unique body donation programme, which has been ethically reviewed and scrutinised by official authorities. Time: 10am-6pm; ticket prices: $21 adults, S$21, child (3-12 years old) S$13—fee ncludes admission to Science Centre.
Elvis Costello
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(Until 12 Dec) CHERATING BEACH: GO GASTRO AT CLUB MED Club Med Cherating Beach Club Med Cherating Beach is hosting the third annual Gastronomic Cuisine Weeks. Expert chefs of Club Med from all over the region will demonstrate the mastery of their art and whip up their own special magic for Gentle Members to rejoice over their gastronomic creations, through sampling exquisite flavours from diverse cuisines with each day taking on a different flavour. Prices begin from S$328 per adult and S$198 per child for a 3D2N stay in a twin‑sharing Superior room. Prices exclude transportation costs and membership fee. Call 1800 CLUB MED (258 2633) or contact your preferred travel agent to start dishing up your own culinary affair with Club Med today.
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newsight+experience Text & Photography by DENNIS BALANGUE
Head Rush. All in a day’s work for this grandma in the virgin island of Siquijor, Philippines.
Are you a camera bug?
Do you have a vignette that you’d want to share? Send in your photo that speaks “wow”, “amazing” and it might just be the New Sight + Experience for our November 09 issue. Send the hi-res image (300dpi, A4 size, TIFF/JPEG) to sohkeeseng@epl.com.sg by Oct 13, 2009.