FT Oct 09

october 2009

FREQUENT

Complete resource for the corporate Traveller

October 2009 MICA(P) 231/06/2009 KDN NO. PPS 1221/10/2010 (028276)

Riding the Rails

Top 10

Train Journeys BEIJING v CAMBODIA v CEBU v ESTONIA v OKINAWA

THE ART OF THE HUDDLE WHY MEETINGS MATTER

Family Fun THEME PARKS, RESORTS, AIRLINE PROGRAMMES, AND OTHER TIPS FOR TRAVELLING WITH KIDS

THE GO-TO GUYS

Personal Concierges

make life easier

KDN NO. PPS 1221/10/2010 (028276) MICA(P) 231/06/2009

Special Feature

POCKETIsland PARADISES Getaways for the World-Weary

www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

Australia A$6.00 • China CNY51 • Hong Kong HK$40.00 India INR212 • Korea KRW56 • Malaysia RM9.10 New Zealand NZ$9.10 • Philippines P90 • Singapore S$6.00 Taiwan TWD170 • Thailand Bht130 • Vietnam US$6.00

Frequent Flyer

DISCOVER...

BEIJING v CAMBODIA v CEBU v ESTONIA v OKINAWA

Insider Tips

contents OCTOBER 2009

FEATUREs 28 Another DAY IN PARADISE

Has the lacklustre economy put a dampener on island resorts’ expansion plans? What are they doing to ensure their properties do not undermine their environments?

A look-see at how island resorts are doing in this economic situation

By Weiwen Lin

Kunlun Hotel (Lobby)

GUIDELINES 6 Next Stop Wonderland

Even far into this jet age, travelling by rail is not as archaic as it sounds. It’s the perfect compromise between speed and stopping to smell the proverbial flowers. Presenting 10 railway journeys for the intrepid

By Deepali Kumar

8 Face Time

Why face-to-face meetings shouldn’t be phased out from the company budget

By Teà Villamor

10 Shopping On Air

The science of anticipating what passengers want and don’t want in their duty-free shopping onboard the plane

By Say Liang Lim

12 Are We There Yet?

16 At Your Service

Concierge services have gone beyond what most people expect—from concert tickets to arranging your wedding, these masters of multitasking and logistics will have everything at hand

By Michele Koh

Travelling with small kids is never easy, especially if you’re by yourself. Here’s a guide on the do’s and don’ts and which airlines have the kidfriendliest programmes

By Michele Koh

Frequent Traveller is published eight times a year by Eastern Publishing Pte Ltd; Web: www.frequenttraveller.com.sg; To subscribe, see page 65

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www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

20 The Challenges of Being First Wolfgang Krueger, General Manager of Shangri-La, Tokyo, on the challenges of running the brand’s first hotel in Japan

By Weiwen Lin

34

Theme parks are a world of pure imagination

CORP HUB 22 After the Dust Has Settled Mumbai had a bad year. But in that short span of time, it has managed to pick itself up and continue where it left off

SOJOURN 50 Contrast and Change

Cambodia shrugs off the shackles of its turbulent history and embraces a culture rich in mystery

By Kathy Khoo

54 Mercurial Cebu

Cebu, the Philippines’ Queen City of the South, is still a place of genteel living

By Jude Bacalso

By Sharmilah Rajah

25 Environmental Irony

Often criticised for her role in environmental degradation, China now hopes to dominate the renewable energy industry.

The irony!

By Michele Koh

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DESTINATIONS

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34 Thrills, Spills, and Imaginary Worlds

Beyond duty-free

Picturesque Estonia

Bring out your inner child by visiting some of the funnest places in the world—theme parks!

By Kathy Khoo

38 Tropic Nippon

When we think of Japan, we don’t immediately associate it with tropical beaches. That was before we discovered Okinawa

By Ruth Tan

LIFESTYLE 58 Children’s Edition Where to go for your family vacation

By Susan Leong and Teà Villamor

62 The Chinese Evolution

Jereme Leung, one of the most famous proponents of Chinese food, holds forth on what is arguably everyone’s favourite cuisine

By Say Liang Lim

64 Insider Information

The top insider tips from frequent flyers

By Jonathan French

66 Good Stuff 68 Posh Space 70 Perk Me Up

REGULARS

Photo courtesy of Shangri-La Villingili

On the cover Shangri-La Villingili

42 Fast in Transition

04 My Say

Beijing’s past and present exist side by side that there’s always something new waiting to be discovered every visit

By Susan Leong

46 Estonia’s Hidden Gems

This quaint place has much to offer the adventurous traveller

72 Gourmand’s Corner 74 Travel Deals 76 New Rooms 77 Bulletin 78 Flight Plans

By Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam

79 Diary of Events 80 New Sight & Experience

FREQUENT

mysay

Managing Director (Operations) Kenneth Tan

Gotta

HAVE FAITH

In the book I’m reading, one of the characters said, “Where’s the harm in a little arbitrary faith?” Such powerful optimism in a simple statement.These days, we need all the optimism we can get, even if it’s from a fictional character.

Personally, I’ve always found this time of the year—the few months before the Christmas holidays—more stressful, busier, more tiring…just a heavier burden to carry than other times of the year. This is like my version of the 3am blues. Don't scientists say that the early hours of the day are the darkest and more difficult to get through? For me, the third quarter is the hardest to get through—the final heave before the year ends. It was even more so this year. Not just because we’re still weathering an economic crisis, but there seems to be more deaths, more catastrophes, more bad news concentrated on this third quarter than at other times. I haven’t done a more factual reckoning, but if I did, I bet the data would support me.

But like the fellow in the novel said, there’s no harm in faith. I’m not even talking about the religious, higher-power kind (although that helps too), I’m talking about the more pedestrian kind: Faith that you’ll catch the train/bus on time for work, faith that you have what it takes to do what needs doing, faith that you’ll overcome all the little crises that make up your day. Faith that everything’s going to be OK. In this issue, we always try to keep the faith by choosing stories we think will help readers do their jobs better—how to hold better, more cost-effective meetings (pp8-9); where to get expert help (pp16-17), advances in air travel (pp10-11), and advice from a pioneer hotel chain (pp20-21). The family is also a good anchor for faith. This issue, we have several stories geared toward where to take the kids for their break (pp12-15, 34-37, 58-61) to suggested getaways with the spouse, kids optional: from romantic railroad journeys (pp6-7) and exotic island vacations (pp28-33). The narratives of countries are also a good lesson in faith and capacity of people to overcome. Mumbai was besieged last year but now, it’s back on track and as lively as ever (pp22-23). Cambodia has one of the most horrific histories of genocide in the planet, and yet it has managed to pick itself up and is now a leading tourist destination (pp50-53).

Recently, economists were cautiously optimistic that the world economy was picking up. If that isn’t the power of faith, I don’t know what is.

Happy trails, everyone!

Assistant Editor Terrie Gutierrez terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg Senior Editorial Assistant Sharina Shariff Editorial Assistant Amy Ho amyho@epl.com.sg Senior Art Director/Studio Manager Lawrence Lee Graphic Designers Soh Kee Seng Katherine Ching Contributing Graphic Designer Libby Goh Photographer Eric Chun Managing Director (Sales) Dan Tan Senior Regional Sales Director Connie Tung connietung@epl.com.sg Regional Manager Josephine Teo josephineteo@epl.com.sg Circulation Manager Foo Boon How Circulation Executives Emily Wang Elizabeth Heng Contributors Gizella Babcock, Jude Bacalso, Eric Charlton, Danchitnis, Steve Evans, Liza Ilarde, Kathy Khoo, Michele Koh, Deepali Kumar, Tracy Lee-Elrick, Susan Leong, Erwin T. Lim, Say Liang Lim, Weiwen Lin, Steve Linder, Paolo B. Maligaya, Addictive Picasso, Rahims, Sharmila Rajah, Nicky Sering, Swami Stream, Ruth Tan, Oor Wallie, Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam Published By EASTERN PUBLISHING PTE LTD (Co. Reg. No.: 200413351W) A fully-owned subsidiary of Eastern Holdings Ltd

EASTERN HOLDINGS LTD Executive Board Chairman Stephen Tay Group Executive Director Kenneth Tan Financial Controller Robbin Lim Head Office Eastern Holdings Ltd (Co. Reg. No.: 198105390C) EPL Building 1100 Lower Delta Road #04-01 Singapore 169206 Tel: (65) 6379 2888 Fax: (65) 6379 2803 E-mail: eastern@singnet.com.sg or FrequentTraveller@epl.com.sg Hong Kong Office: 28/F Soundwill Plaza 38 Russell Street Causeway Bay Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2575 8488 Fax: (852) 2836 5829

Assistant Editor

MICA (P) No. 231/06/2009 • ISSN: 0219-2071 • PPS 1221/10/2010 (028276)

To Subscribe please call our Hotline (65) 6379 2888 Visit our website at www.frequenttraveller.com.sg Printed by DMI Productions Pte Ltd Tel: (65) 6515 9761/3 • Fax: (65) 6515 9772 Distributed (Singapore) by Singapore Press Holdings Tel: (65) 6319 6319 • Fax: (65) 6842 2961

PS: The photographs of Lake Tekapo and the Night sky used in last issue’s “Dreaming Green” article are by Frazer Gunn/Mackenzie Splendour Pics on Zealandia Karori Sanctuary Experience: Karori Sanctuary Trust Pics on Indigenons Trails: Indigenous Trails

All rights reserved. No portion of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, taping, etc – without the written consent of the publisher. Opinions expressed by contributors and advertisers are not necessarily those of the publisher and editor.

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES: Japan: Mr Takagi M, Access Planning, Inc Kawamoto #2 Bldg, 2-20-17 Akasaka, Minato-Ku, Tokyo, 107 Japan. Tel: (81-3) 5562-6961, Fax: (81-3) 5562-6971 Korea: Mr K Heinz Kim, Heinz Communications Inc, Room 816, Poongrim VIPtel, 404 Gongdeok-dong, Mapo-ku, Seoul 121-020, Korea. Tel: (82-2) 718-3281/3282, Fax: (82-2) 718-3283 Lao PDR: Mr Sebastien Duffillot, Kinnary Advertising Co Ltd, 10614 Chao Anou Road, PO Box 0952, Vientiane, Lao PDR. Tel/fax: (856-21) 222-152 United Arab Emirates: Mr Sabih Ahmad, BSA Consultants, Office Tower A1 Ghurair Centre PO Box 27632, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. Tel: (971-4) 2287-708, Fax: (971-4) 2212-350 United Kingdom: Ms Julie Hammond, Exchange Marketing, The Chislehurst Business Centre, 1 Bromley Lane, Chislehurst, Kent BR7 6LH, UK. Tel: (44-181) 467-8884, Fax: (44-181) 467-5558

Special Advertising Section

Check into

an oasis of calm Closing high-powered deals and engaging in fast-paced business meetings will be easier once you imbibe some peace and tranquility at the Executive Floors of The Garden Hotel Guangzhou Like a cool, tranquil oasis, the Garden Hotel Guangzhou is still the place to close deals in the city.

From its grand lobby and superb meeting spaces, the hotel never fails to impress.

“It’s one of the best hotels in the city,” says one repeat guest. “The facilities are topnotch and the service is excellent. Breakfast near the waterfall is simply amazing!”

But that’s not all. The gracious Executive Floors on the upper levels of the Garden Hotel is a tall cold drink of peace before you venture into the cutthroat arena of big business. Designed for discerning business travellers, Garden Hotel’s newly refurbished Executive Floors feature comfortable and elegantly appointed rooms and suites, exceptional facilities, first-class amenities, personalised services, as well as an Executive Lounge where guests can relax, enjoy the spectacular panoramic view of the city—and if they want, trade war stories with business associates.

Stay at the Garden Hotel Guangzhou’s Executive Floors and experience a host of exclusive privileges, value-added benefits, and little touches like a complimentary welcome drink as you check in; a welcome fruit basket and flowers in your room; a selection of newspapers so you get news from different points of view; complimentary privileges like shoeshine service upon request, local calls, laundry service, cable and wireless broadband Internet, use of the gym and sauna.

Also included in the list of privileges are amenities that are exclusive to Executive Floor guests like: Complimentary buffet breakfast, coffee, tea, softdrinks at the Executive Floor Lounge, as well as afternoon tea and cocktails.

To boost your business, The Garden Guangzhou offers the use of Executive Floor meeting room for two hours daily; exclusive services and facilities of the Executive Lounge; 24-hour butler, concierge, and business centre services; express check-in, checkout, and flight confirmation service; early check-in, late checkout, one-way limo transfer to or from Guangzhou Baiyun Airport or East Train Station.

Truly, at The Garden Hotel Guangzhou, we take superb care of you so you can take great care of business.

The Garden Hotel Guangzhou 368 Huangshi Dong Lu, Guangzhou 510064, The People’s Republic of China tel (86 20) 8333 8989 fax (86 20) 8335 0467; email rsvn@thegardenhotel.com.cn; www.thegardenhotel.com.cn

guidelines railways

Text by Deepali Kumar | Photographs by Eastern & Orient Express; www.rockymountaineer.com

NEXT STOP

WONDERLAND Travelling by rail gives the saying “It’s the journey, not the destination” more resonance. All aboard!

In today’s quick and convenient lifestyle, it’s all about getting from one place to the next in the shortest, cheapest time. Even holidays are all about squeezing in all the sights at one go. But the trends may be reversing. In recent years, we’ve seen the rise of what many call “deeper” travel and experiential travel, as opposed to the packaged tours of past years. Now, it’s all about getting under the skin of the place, seeking out authenticity and real experiences, as well as appreciating more thoroughly local culture. The direct beneficiaries of this shift in thinking is rail travel, which has become even easier these days, with convenient timetables, better trains, and more alternatives to choose from. For 2009, figures indicate that rail travel has been on the

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rise, especially in Europe.

Our top 10 train rides are not all long and luxurious but they capture a sense of your destination that you would other wise not experience.

In a train, it’s really all about the journey more than the destination.

1. The Blue Train A journey that calls itself the soul of South Africa, the Blue Train experience delivers more than its promise, taking you through spectacular and diverse natural landscape. There are two routes: Southbound, you board the train at Pretoria an travel 1,600 kilometres for 27 luxurious hours, disembarking at Kimberley to see the sights. The northbound journey starts at Cape Town with a short halt at Matjiesfontein before you complete your

journey at Pretoria. With a choice of suites, lounges and club cars where you can tune into the big screen TV or enjoy an aperitif your hotel on wheels leaves nothing out. But nothing rivals the spread at meal times.

Sheffield cutlery, silverware and crisp white linen form the perfect backdrop to the legendary cuisine and award winning wines. To attend to your needs, a butler is always on standby as is the train manager. www. bluetrain.co.za 2. Hiram Bingham The wonders of South America are now not only easily visited but you voyage of discover y is a luxurious and relaxing experience. With the Hiram Bingham you travel between Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Along the way are quaint villages, wonderful vistas of

t h e mountains, and the beautiful Urubamba River, which runs through the Sacred Valley. The train stops at Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. After a tour of the famed citadel, you can relax with a predinner cocktail, while the onboard entertainment gets you back on your feet with lively local music and dance.

When it’s time for dinner you are in for an exciting experience as you are treated to the finest of Peruvian wines and cuisine. It’s the small touches that make a journey on this train special—the fresh flowers in the toilets, the warm but elegant welcome of dancers, and Champagne and the service that makes you feel that you are the only guests on this exquisite train. www.perurail.com

3. Venice Simplon Orient Express No visit to Europe is complete without a journey on this legendary train. The fact that this train’s varied route criss-crosses Europe taking you from one alluring city to another makes getting on it more accessible: London, Paris, Rome, Venice, Prague, Istanbul, Budapest, Vienna and Krakow are the destinations you can start from or travel to.

Composed of beautifully restored carriages from the 1920s and 1930s, the panels and art works on board vie with the crisp linen, soft towels, and the stewards who seem to be able to read your every desire. With three restaurants and a bar car, fresh produce picked up en route and the finest French chefs and breakfast and afternoon tea served in your cabin there is not much more you can want.

For those who would like to take a piece of this experience home a boutique with a collection of select items from jewellery to alarm clocks is on board. www.orient-express.com 4. Trans Siberian Railway A journey 6,000 miles long that covers one third of the planet

and takes 19 days can only be called epic. But you can make it a shorter trip. The top recommendation is to take the Moscow–Beijing route via Mongolia. While this train doesn’t offer all the frills, it takes you across some of the most varied landscapes. But be prepared for some adventure in the bathroom as even the first class doesn’t have western hot showers. www. visitrussia.com 5. Eastern & Orient Express See some of Asia’s spectacular countries in style as the varied routes of this train take you across Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia, and Laos. Each night your cabin is transformed from a living room to a comfortable bedroom with the steward just a bell call away to cater to your every need. The high point of this journey is the Observation Car located at the very end of the train and designed to look like a colonial veranda.

For those who want to take in a shorter trip, you can book a dinner on the train. The dinner train leaves Singapore early evening, journeys into Malaysia and comes back to

OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT: The Rocky Mountaineer travels through Seton Lake, British Columbia some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery; pre-dinner cocktails at the piano bar of the Eastern & Orient Express. ABOVE: Night configuration of the Presidential suite of the Eastern & Orient Express

Singapore six hours later. In the meantime, you get to experience the fabulous compartments, a gourmet menu, and various entertainments onboard. Call it a slice of luxury on a busy schedule. www.orient-express.com 6. Rocky Mountaineer Travel across a historic 100-year old train route over two days through Canada’s West and the Canadian Rockies. Your journey takes place only during the daytime so you can catch every soaring mountain, cascading river, and glacier-filled lake.

The upmarket Gold Leaf Ser vice provides a bi-level Dome coach with full-length dome windows that capture those panoramic sights. The infor mative commentar y provided by the staff and the exemplar y food are some of the trimmings you are guaranteed on this ride. www. rockymountaineer.com 7. Royal Scotsman This is the most expensive train ride in the world and is regarded as one of the world’s great travel experiences. Take a voyage through the lochs and pineclad mountains of Scotland for as short as two days or for a week. Stop along the way to see distilleries, estates, mills, gardens and churches as you learn the history of the Scottish people. Dining becomes an art form as the best from Scotland’s larder are ser ved—Angus beef, salmon, shellfish, and game. With the train stabled every night you are assured of a good sleep in cabins that convey Scottish warmth and elegant sophistication at the same time. www.royal scotsman.com 8. Palace on Wheels Experience India as it was in the era

of palaces and Maharajas.

From Delhi to Rajasthan you travel pampered like a king experiencing vignettes the countr y is known for—an elephant welcome, a camel safari, and an afternoon at the Taj Mahal are some of well appreciated attractions.

Train enthusiasts will enjoy the steam engine that pulls the train out of Delhi. www. palaceonwheels.net 9. The Ghan Connecting Adelaide, Alice Springs, and Darwin this train is the way to appreciate the rugged Outback in unparallel luxury.

Your two days’ train ride covers the spectacular Australian countryside from fertile stations surrounding Adelaide to the rusty hues of the Red Centre, on to the tropical splendour of the Top End. With three levels of service—Platinum, Gold and Red—the Ghan ensures that everyone can take a ride. www. gsr.com.au 10. The Glacier Express It calls itself the slowest fast train in the world and brings with it comfort as it meanders through the Swiss Alps, taking seven-and-ahalf hours to cover the 280 miles between the chic ski resorts of Zermatt and St. Moritz. The dining car on board takes care of your meals. While luxur y is not a part of the train’s format, the picturesque landscape is a dream to see with the modern panoramic coaches and skylights. With 291 bridges, 91 tunnels and the crossing of the Oberalp Pass, at over 2,000 metres above sea level the excitement quotient is ver y high on this journey. www.glacier express.ch

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guidelines meetings

by Teà Villamor | Photography courtesy of Hilton Hotels

PHOTOS, THIS SPREAD: Cutting out face-to-face meetings altogether is counter productive to any business like having them in inappropriate venues as these images illustrate

With the benefits of technology and increasing costs of travelling, face-toface business meetings are dwindling.

Is this good or bad? Here’s a scenario

FACE TIME Back in the heady prehistoric days of the 1980s, when Gordon Gecko uttered the famous, “Greed is good!” in the film Wall Street, and even leading into the oughties, taking a meeting was considered de rigueur in a normal business transaction. No one really thought much about putting offsite meetings into the expense account, because it was taken for granted that meetings are part of running a business.

Fast-forward to the later years of the first decade of the 21st century when the world is grappling with the effects of a financial crisis. One of the hardest hits in the crisis was the hotel industry, as businesses started curtailing meetings abroad. Many argue that the proliferation of cutting-edged business gadgets and business tools—like teleconferencing, for example—have made face-to-face meetings unnecessary. Couple this with the current economic crunch, and it’s easy to see why business trips for face-to-face meetings, especially if it involves several business associates travelling out of the country, are the first things that are being cut from the company budget.

But how important are face-to-face meetings in a business?

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Wouldn’t it be just as effective, not to mention cheaper, to communicate via the myriad options available? After all, in everyday lives we already use email, the phone, videoconference, chat, SMS, even social networking sites. Communication methods have become much more advanced that the idea of having say, a “power breakfast,” which used to be big way back then, seems so quaint now.

Dr. Richard Arvey, head of the Department of Management and Organisation at the National University of Singapore, in a paper entitled “Why Face to Face Business Meetings Matter” says that whilst companies are increasingly relying on “computer-mediated” channels such as email or the Internet, they should be careful to ensure that they are still selecting the most appropriate medium for their business discussions.

“Current trends suggest that face-to-face meetings are increasingly being substituted by virtual alternatives,” he concedes. He does say, however, the uses of new media can be somewhat limiting. People fail to take into consideration many things when advocating new technology. For instance, while he said that conference calls and emails are ideal for conveying information that don’t really need a

What You Don’t See In A Videoconference Eight advantages of face-to-face meetings, according to Dr. Arvey 1. Verbal and nonverbal communication. In email, you only read the words and in videoconferencing, because of the technology—there’s a screen that separates the participants—you can’t really see the nuances of people’s expressions, reactions and body language, which help a lot in forming our own conclusions or in making decisions.

2. Inferences on who is to be trusted, leadership roles, etc…

We get a lot of nonverbal cues with which we base our trust—to lead a project, to second our opinions, etc.

We miss out on these when we’re using email, for instance.

3. No delay. There’s no need to wait for responses because everyone in one place.

4. Simple human contact. We can’t discount the importance of just interacting with live people, not just the computer screen.

5. Social exchange context. We form alliances during meetings and these can be beneficial if harnessed the right way.

6. Social identities. These are the norms of the organisation.

Who usually reacts a certain way?

Who asks a lot of questions? Who always has a complaint? These are the behaviour we see when everyone’s meeting face-to-face.

We don’t see this in a computermediated conference because people tend to be more conscious of what they say or write because they know there’s going to be record of it, for one.

7. Social support. Sometimes the major decisions, the big ideas, the most honest reactions do not happen during the meeting. It’s when you’re relaxing over coffee, sharing a lunch, or a ride that people let their guard down and talk about the particulars of the meeting.

8. Humour. Sometimes this can be distracting and makes meetings longer than necessary, but this allows people to be themselves and ultimately, that should go a long way toward making them more productive.

How To Run A Meeting Not all meetings are created equal, says Dr. Arvey. Depending on who you’re dealing with, you’ll need different ways of running a meeting.

For instance, Singaporeans take much stock in closure and clear procedures during meetings, while participants from China tend to place a higher value on traditions.

The Australians meanwhile, respond better to meetings that emphasise individual responsibility.

“Different cultures have different ways of conducting or responding to meetings,” explains Dr. Arvey. “For example, some

groups place great emphasis on hierarchical structures or power distances, like the Chinese. In other groups, you’ll need to ask which is more important—the individual or the collective? Because some are used to making decisions as a group, while others value individuality. Then there’s masculine vs feminine—some cultures will respond to a female differently, for instance.

Others hate to leave a decision hanging; a decision has to be made or there should be a clear guideline on how or when the decisions will be made.”

decision or a response from the participants or need the response quickly. But for tasks that require a wide consensus, persuasion, or when there are complex tasks and major decisions involved, the need for face-to-face meetings becomes greater.

“It is my belief that eliminating or seriously reducing face-to-face meetings would be a mistake to businesses because of the variety of positive psychological as well as general business outcomes that meetings can offer corporations.”

In the study, which was commissioned by Hilton Hotels early this year, 82% of those questioned agreed that cost considerations and improved technologies have resulted in fewer face-to-face business meetings. However 61% stated that they would rather work for an organisation that invested in regular offsite meetings, while 77% believe that meetings are a necessity not a luxury and a majority (94%) say that meetings build stronger business relationships and build stronger bonds.

“The research illustrates that despite the current economic challenges, meetings still matter,” said Mr. Andrew Flack, Vice President Sales & Marketing Hilton Hotels Asia Pacific. “What we do see though in our experience of hosting meetings in our hotels across the region is that rather than cutting out meetings to save on costs, businesses are in fact changing the shape of the meetings they host. We see a move toward smaller, more regular meetings in short-haul destinations instead of larger meetings and congresses in long-haul locations.”

Here’s what’s interesting in Dr. Avery’s paper: While face-to-face meetings are important (I don’t think there’s any dispute to this; this is a given), what’s even more important are the relationships and interactions that are fostered before or after the meeting which may in fact affect the whole outcome of the meeting.

“Sometimes in meetings, the important stuff happens when you’re getting coffee during breaks or are sharing a ride to or from a meeting,” says Dr. Arvey. “It’s these sideline conversations that you don’t get when you’re using virtual methods.” Indeed, respondents agree. Some 84% of those surveyed in the study believe that a face-to-face meeting does a lot to inspire people, which will more likely result in breakthrough thinking. And 82% say that meetings can bring out the best of people compared to other communication forms.

“There’s much to be said about having face to face contact,” says Dr. Arvey. “We have to take into consideration issues of transparency and trust, how we interact and establish social relationships, and also our ability to evaluate and judge,” he continues.

Perhaps the economic crisis just hastened the process, but the seeming sea change about meetings has even gotten a reaction from the White House. In a statement released a few months ago, White House spokesperson Kate Bedingfield said that Cabinet officials will be going on retreat to “assess the first six months of the administration and lay out goals and priorities for the coming months” with the meeting modelled after “similar corporate events.”

“Face-to-face meetings are often the most productive ways to strengthen relationships, develop strategies, increase productivity and achieve organisational goals. We applaud the Obama Administration for employing this productive and proven technique to enhance its activities.”

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guidelines airlines

Text by SAY LIANG LIM | Photographs by GuestLogix

SHOPPING ON AIR Onboard retailing is set to change in a big way––and none too soon. FT speaks to John Devins, Director of GuestLogix Asia Pacific, to find out more

In the future, shopping onboard will evolve from just the occasional duty-free bottle of whiskey

Buying duty-free goods inflight is a service that many take for granted these days.

We’re even bored with it. At the very least, perusing the product catalogs onboard is one way to pass the time if one hasn’t brought any reading material or made use of the inflight entertainment options available.

This will soon change, however, with GuestLogix’s innovations in the field of onboard retailing.

We catch up with GuestLogix’s John Evans who tells us what’s in the pipeline.

What is driving the change?

Traditionally, people think of onboard retailing as dutyfree where people want to

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buy something onboard and flight attendants would have a catalogue, they would display it and people would buy stuff.

They had a device which recorded products sold and processed credit cards. Around 2001 when the U.S.’s airline industry got really tough, a lot of the airlines stopped giving away food and beverage and started selling them. It didn’t seem like the items were expensive so they didn’t pay much attention. All of a sudden, they realised it was actually a fairly significant business and they were managing it all on paper. Money was kept in paper cups; shrinkage was high for the cash and the products.

There are innovations and variations on that now. There’s two parts to GuestLogix, there’s the technology part, which is the handheld device and the database software. We pretty much implement the same thing for every customer. Now, we are on 30-plus airlines, they are the larger airlines in the world and they represent around 800 million passenger trips.

The other part of it is a programme we call OnTouch.

And it is in the business of providing virtual products. It is now live with several of its services available on a leading global carrier with an Asia Pacific footprint. We are seeing very strong interest from airlines

across the world, including in Asia, for this new offering.

Can you tell us more about OnTouch?

O n To u c h T M g l o b a l merchandising is a ser vice that brings the sale of transit tickets, entertainment tickets, and other services onboard. This will not only deliver a whole new experience in air travel, it will also drive new profitable revenues for airlines. For example, passengers flying to London are now able to conveniently purchase airport transfer tickets on the Heathrow Express train while flying, saving them the hassle and time of queuing up to buy the tickets when they land. Soon, tourists flying to Florida, California, Paris, Tokyo or Hong Kong will even be able to buy tickets to visit Disney theme parks in their destination cities, all in the comfort of their flight seats. There are five categories they we see that are OnTouch’s services: ground transportation, shopping, Box Office—tickets for entertainment and attractions. We’ve done a deal with Disneyland so now you will be able to buy tickets in a number of cities around the world. You will be able to buy tickets flying in those cities. Minutes to Go: In-flight offerings of prepaid phone cards, phone top-ups, rentals and web connections. And Concierge: we hooked up with a company in the United Kingdom that provides something called Mobile Buddy, and it basically provides you with SMS texts and information on events and attractions happening within that city. At the same time, we will be selling those tickets on the device onboard.

This is the start of a new move toward thinking of ancillary services as a means to enhance the customer experience, and offering customers what they

need for a pleasant journey throughout the entire route from start to destination, instead of simply whiling away hours on the plane. The onboard provision of ticket sales, from transport and airport transfers, to entertainment and tourist attractions, will allow new levels of creative service that will help airlines both build customer loyalty and earn more profit at the same time.

At the same time, airlines now have new merchandising options without the problems associated with supplying goods on board, such as inventory hassle and fuel consumption costs. The margins associated with ticket and service sales are also much larger than more conventional F&B or duty-free sales. These are key factors influencing the solution’s positive reception by many GuestLogix airline partners.

What are travellers looking for in terms of onboard retailing?

GuestLogix commissioned two surveys, one involving over 3,500 participants from Germany, the United States, and Hong Kong, and the other an online poll of over 150 travellers from Asia Pacific. The surveys suggest airlines need to address ground transport sales as the most viable and profitable onboard opportunity in the sale of airport transfer tickets, such as bus and train tickets, and share ride and limousine services in destination cities. It also showed that at least 50% of the world’s airline passengers would purchase the services provided through OnTouch if the onboard experience was convenient, made good use of their time, and made them feel privileged. Around 51% of the respondents have made a purchase onboard and 63% bought items onboard during their last flight. Out of these, the

majority of purchases comprised duty-free merchandise (68%).

Of the respondents, one in three polled needed to purchase transfer/transportation tickets upon arrival; more than half of the respondents find the process of purchasing transfer or transportation tickets upon arrival inconvenient. Around 62% of the respondents are most prepared to pay for a transfer/ transportation ticket on a budget flight. On a non-budget flight, 67% will do so.

Did your research uncover any area for growth?

While the ancillary industry in Asia Pacific is not as mature as that in Europe or North

of onboard sales earned by airlines worldwide at US$1 on average per head. Certainly in Asia, the market for onboard sales is relatively less developed.

But this is set to change: we’re seeing an increasing interest from airlines in this part of the world in technology that can help transform their ancillary revenue strategy and build margins.

So what’s the situation like in the near future?

Airlines have to strike a balance between creatively crossmarketing additional services and products both during the booking process, in-flight, and disembarkation to enhance the

The survey showed that at least 50% of airline passengers would purchase the services provided if the onboard experience was convenient, made good use of their time, and made them feel privileged America, we expect that the economic downturn will result in Asian carriers focusing more on identifying new revenue streams in the years ahead by providing a la carte services and commission-based products in addition to basic flight offerings, such as insurance and car rentals.

Our survey results found that the onboard sales conversion rate could be eight times greater as up to 80% of the respondents said they would buy transport tickets during flight because of convenience. GuestLogix’s estimates place the average

customer experience, while freely proffering services that customers feel are basic to their flight/travel experience. Based on 2008 passenger traffic, the market is worth $3.75 billion today. Reflecting the onboard sales efforts of some leading low-cost carriers, the onboard retailing market is poised to grow fivefold over the next few years. In particular, it is onboard where airlines can achieve the greatest impact and really get creative with their customers by focusing on destination-related offers.

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| 11

guidelines airlines

By Michele Koh | Photography by www.aa.com, www.emiratesgroup.com, www.lufthansa.com, www.qantas.com.au

Every parent will tell you that having kids certainly makes life more exciting, and challenging. Even as they coo over their child, new parents are often overwhelmed by the sacrifices they have to make (and will be making) with regards to their time and mobility. One area that gets significantly altered by the pitter-patter of little feet is travel, and many parents—especially first-timers—are hesitant to travel with the little ones in tow. However, if you take a deep breath, do some meticulous planning and choose the right airline, travelling with baby can be a breeze.

Packing Be sure to pack lots of clean clothes since kids tend to get themselves dirty so easily.

Bring along a favourite toys or book so they

when you land,” suggests Karen. Also bring some of their favorite snacks, a combination of treats they like as well as the healthy treats.

Pretzels Cheerios, dried apple pieces, baked chips, rice crackers, bananas and juice are good for one- to three-year olds.

Accommodation Karen prefers service apartments because they’re more child-friendly. Babies and young kids have early bedtimes. The problem with many hotel rooms is that there are usually only a few main lights, so when you turn off the lights for your child to sleep, you are stuck sitting in the dark or reading in the toilet while they sleep.

Most service apartments have more than one room, which means you can turn off the lights in the room where your child is sleeping and continue with your activities

menus are good, and especially fun for four- to eight-year olds.

Air Travel When booking your flight, pick a schedule so you fly during their naptime. If that is not possible, make sure you have a portable DVD player, books, crayons and paper and snacks because children tend to get restless and bored easily on planes. Choose seats that are closer to the front so that you can get on and off quicker. Board early with the elderly and small children so that you can set up a car seat on your ascribed seat. Put your child in the middle or window seat as aisle seats are not safe because luggage from the overhead locker bins can open in midflight and fall on their heads. Bassinets are good for children up to one-year old, after than you will need to secure a spare seat

Are We There Yet?

Though travelling with kids require a little more planning and preparation, it can all be quite painless if you get it right.

We talk to two jetsetting moms for some wise advice

feel like they have a little bit of home with them. These familiar items make it easier for them to adjust to their new surroundings. If you can, bring a portable DVD player with a familiar favourite DVD. The latter is very useful in keeping your child entertained and absorbed so you can relax and do your own thing. Also pack a first-aid kit with your child’s medicines. For plane travel, Karen Tan creates two lists. One for hand-carried items and one for items that go into the check-in luggage.

“To avoid overpacking, buy the disposables (nappies, wipes, food) when you get to your destination. But bring a few nappies and some baby food for the first day so you don’t have to rush out to the stores to buy them

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in the living or kitchen area. Look for a service apartment with a corner to put the cot in where you can block out the light while using the rest of the space. Other requirements are a kettle (to heat milk and food) and a fridge to keep milk or half-eaten baby food.

Restaurants Fine dining is out of the question, and many five-star fine dinning restaurants have a no children policy, anyway. “I usually read the reviews for a restaurant before we go there and pick the ones that say ‘relaxed atmosphere,’” says Karen. High chairs and wide aisle strollers are a plus. Family restaurants with crayons and children’s

next to you with a car seat. Also, check with the airline for their kiddie programmes.

Some may need to be pre-booked for you to avail of them.

Car Travel Bring lots of toys portable DVD player, snacks and books of fun music. Plan lots of rest stops if it is a long drive so they can get the chance to run around a bit and stretch their legs. This will tire them out so they can rest for the rest of the journey and get some exercise.

“For me, the best time to travel is at night,” says Julia Morollo, adding, “because making them sleep during the trip becomes easier.”

Crying in Crowded Places There is no easy way to deal with this. If your child is crying, it is usually because he is tired or hungry, so your best bet is try to get him some food or try to walk around with him till they fall asleep.

“Babies cry. I’ve had people coming up to me to offer advice but the baby still won’t stop crying. I suppose you try everything you know but if all else fails, know that you are not the only one who has ever experienced this and they eventually stop and sleep. A practical tip for young babies, is to keep breastfeeding them. Breast-feeding is one of the best cures for crying,” says Julia.

Child-friendly vacations With infants and toddlers, you always have to be prepared to work around their schedule unless you have an easy baby who

At the American Airlines lounge, kids can play educational games before boarding

can sleep on the go. Country holidays are good because there is a lot of space and you don’t have to worry about crowds.

“We have no intention of giving up travelling, so we try to make sure the baby is

versatile and can be toted everywhere. Dinners out not a good idea with young children as that’s when they’re at their crankiest. But we can always hire a babysitter if there is some place we really want to go,” says Karen.

Julia feels that beach vacations are the best vacations for two- to five-year olds, especially resorts or places where one can rent a cottage or villa near or close to the beach. “The sand and water can entertain them for hours. A house has all the amenities of home, kitchen laundry and privacy.” Outdoor activities are still the best at this age. Mountains, pools and beaches are good as this is a good age to teach them to ski, swim, or ride a bicycle. Nine to 12-year olds are now more adaptable—you can bring them to any kind of vacation, city or outdoors. At this point, hotels will work and you can start going to fine-dining restaurants again.

Although never hassle- and crisis-free, travelling with kids can be a rewarding experience when you take advantage of airlines’ amenities

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BABY ON BOARD In recent years airline operators realise that in order to keep families, other passengers, and of course children happy, they would have to come up with ways to keep the little ones comfortable and entertained.

Here’s a rundown of top airlines’ kiddie programmes: AIR CANADA Special Treats: Kids get a visit to the cockpit to meet the pilot and are given a personal logbook. Filling out the application in the logbook will enroll them in the Aeroplan Kids Program. Once enrolled they will receive mailings from the airline.

Meals: Meal options are available to suit any diet, such as infant or baby meals, soft meals, fruit platter meals, kids meals, vegetarian meals and lactose free meals.

Zealand Gang activity pack contains box of colouring pencils, picture book, small puzzle, pencil sharpener, pack of game cards, and the Air New Zealand Buzz & Poppy pack contains activity book, stickers, colouring pencils, picture book and small doll.

Meals: Children in business class can request a special kid’s meal that comes with kids’ cutlery and a toy placed on an activity mat.

Entertainment: Six classic kids’ movies, new release movies as made available, audio stories and CDs, singleplayer games, jokes and fun facts are available on board.

AIR NEW ZEALAND Goody Bag: The Air New

Clockwise from below: Kid’s meal and activity kit at an Emirates flight; flight attendant babysitting at a Lufthansa flight; checking what’s on TV; making friends

AMERICAN AIRLINES Entertainment: Kids receive a magazine called Loading Zone filled with travel-related games and puzzles and interesting children’s articles. They can also listen to a kiddie’s audio channel, which narrates classic children’s stories.

Amenities: Bathrooms come with change tables, and families with kids are given the opportunity to pre-board.

BRITISH AIRWAYS Goody Bag: Children are given a kit full of games and activities when they board.

Meals: All children receive their meals first. Meals for kids two to 12 come in a picnic box loaded with activities.

Entertainment: There is a children’s TV channel available on their personal television set. There is also a kid’s radio station.

Amenities: Infant seats and bassinets are provided free of charge. Some aircrafts are fitted with carrycots, attached directly to the bulkheads, which are ideal for infants up to six months of age.

CONTINENTAL AIRLINES Entertainment: Video game systems that offer six different games to choose from. The monitor is situated on the back of the seat and the controller can be found in the armrest.

Amenities: They offer heating bottles, baby food, or anything else your child requires.

EMIRATES Goody Bag: One soft toy called a Querk, Dr Seuss storybook, E-kids magazine

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(also an activity book), Emirates backpack, colouring pencils, mini eye-mask. One of the best goody bags by far!

Meals: Children’s meals must be pre-ordered. Selections range from burgers, fish sticks, chips, chocolate and fruit to vegetarian options presented on a fun tray.

Entertainment: Skysurfers Frequent Flyer programme has special deals and a fun website for young travellers aged between two and 16. Skyriders is the onboard entertainment system and has comedy and cartoons, movies, music and 18 games. Kids get special headsets in bright colours.

GULF AIR Goody Bag: Young children get

a goody bag that includes a soft toy, activity book, crayons, and memory game; children six to 10 get sunglasses, a Lego game, wallet, activity book, a 3D puzzle and other cool items.

Meals: Kids can choose from two different menus on each flight.

Entertainment: Inflight entertainment system includes Disney specials and movies, as well as an educational audio channel. Children can also borrow board games to play during the flight.

Amenities: The airline has specially trained Sky Nannies on long-haul flights so you get the opportunity to relax.

From the time you and your

family board to the time you disembark, the Sky Nanny’s job is to entertain your children. They do puzzles, offer snacks during movies, set up bassinettes, and even offer children practical advice, like what they should do to clear their ears to avoid pressure pain.

LUFTHANSA Goody Bag: Children in first and Business Class get bonus booty in their own special amenity kit, which includes child-sized earplugs, socks, eye mask, lollipop, toothbrush kit and hair gel.

Meals: The menus, which include things like “Tiger Tail,” a pancake filled with chicken and vegetables, and “Pirate’s Hand,”

fish fingers with cabbage and potato purée, were designed by a famous German TV chef.

Entrees have little to no sugar and vegetables are “hidden” in many of the creations to make sure kids get a properly balanced meal.

Entertainment: The onboard activities are all a part of “Lu’s World,” (Lu being the airline’s little crane mascot), and include a variety of games, puppets, jigsaw puzzles, and card games.

QANTAS Goody Bag: Freddo frogshaped plastic pouch with a Freddo pencil sharpener, three colouring pencils, cardboard magic slate, stickers, puzzle/ colouring booklet, or The Wiggles fun pack—The

Wiggles case, pencil sharpener, box of colouring pencils, plastic magic slate, cut-out stamp, travel fun book. Older kids get the Penguin Puffin kids kit Hypergraph pieces and paper, pop-up car or dog, magnetic matching or tangram game, magnifying bookmark, activity book, three pens.

Dinner is served!

Meals: Special baby and toddler meals must be preordered. Also available is a selection of fruit juices, baby food, milk, bottles, cereals and rusks.

Entertainment: Kids get their own headset and screen with selection of kid’s movies and music.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Goody Bag: Dora the Explorer

activity kit travel case, Dora the Explorer doll, activities pack with stickers, a crayon, games, colouring book, KrisWorld magazine. Also available are Charlotte’s Web and Rugrats packs.

Meals: First and Raffles-class passengers can pre-order a special Yummy! Kid’s menu meal. Choices include chicken and vegetable lasagne,

sausages and pancakes, eggs, fried rice surprise, macaroni and cheese or burger and chips.

Entertainment: KrisWorld entertainment system offers 60 blockbuster movies and 90 TV hits, 196 CDs including audio books for kids, 12 audio channels, 33 Nintendo, 20 PC and three multiplayer games.

Hotel Night View

RMB

898 up

RMB

998 up

Valid till 13 Oct , 2009

Trade Fair Special Rate

guidelines service

by Michele Koh | Photography By Vertu Concierge, www.51-buckinghamgaTe.com

AT YOUR

SERVICE Getting frazzled fixing your flight schedule, getting elusive box tickets to a sold-out championship match, booking a romantic anniversary dinner all at the same time? Call on a concierge to streamline your life

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W h en most peopl e think of concierges, they think of staff at a hotel who give guests suggestions on where to dine or shop and directions to get to these places. But in the last three decades concierges have moved beyond the hotel lobby and branched out to almost all sectors. In French, concierge means “keeper of the keys,� because during the Middle Ages when castles across Europe hosted visiting nobility, it was the concierge who kept the keys to the castle rooms, and made sure royal guests had all they needed during their stay.

Today, the basic function of a personal concierge is to help you save time by taking care of the mundane errands in your day-to-day life—like booking plane tickets or finding a good dry cleaning service in a new city. A concierge service provides you with a round the clock personal assistant who knows the city you are in like the back of his hand. Hiring one will certainly help de-clutter your life, leaving you with more time and energy to focus on the job at hand, especially while you are on tightly scheduled business trips in a new place.

Personal concierges can be found in a variety of settings, like luxury service apartments, spa resorts and office buildings.

They can take care of everything from grocer y shopping to helping you find a babysitter; from party planning to reserving two tickets for the opera. Some companies include concierge services as an added benefit for senior employees and a little something extra for their clients.

You can also find concierges working as personal shoppers in retail stores, as guest relation offices in private clubs, or acting as tour guides and travel consultants in tour and transportation services.

There are many quality concierge companies, as well as independent entrepreneurs who offer their expertise to busy individuals who have enough money, but not enough time. Many of these companies offer information ser vices, errand ser vices, as well as assistance in making formal business requests, dinner reservations, telephone calls, researching travel arrangements and more.

Most concierge companies bill their clients based on an hourly rate, and fees depend upon the type of task required.

There are some companies that charge a flat monthly fee based upon a set number of requests a client is allowed to place each month. This monthly “package service” is also known as “lifestyle management.”

Concierges have their own association, The International Concierge and Errand Association (ICEA), a nonprofit trade association that caters to the professional needs and growth of the industry.

Founded in 2001, the ICEA of fers members business support, networking opportunities, continuing education, a d v o c a c y, a n d i n d u s t r y recognition, and helps to increase the credibility of what is today one of the fastest growing industries in a world where hectic business travel is commonplace.

Jack-of-All-Trades Concierges are trained to solve almost any problem, and tackle seemingly impossible tasks with amazing speed and alacrity.

Jack Nargil, the head concierge at the Hay-Adams Hotel in Washington says he can get his guest almost anything they want as long as it’s “legal and ethical.” For example, he once had to fill a rock star’s suite with thousands of dollars worth of

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OPPOSITE PAGE: One of the perks of having Vertu Concierge is that they can arrange private jet service.

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE: Arrranging for bespoke suits can also be done by Vertu; Those who avail of concierge services usually get top-end treatment from partner establishments.

For instance, members of Quintessentially who stay at 51 Buckingham (above right, left) get upgrades, preferential rates, among other benefits

white flowers, and fly a bellman from Washington to New York to obtain a special pair of shoes for an Arab prince who needed them for a formal event. K.C. Giovanni, a concierge with Triangle Concierge, Inc. tells us that he once had a client who called and said she wanted to lose weight. She asked Mr. Giovanni to hire her a hypnotist, but she wanted him to call a psychic first to check if the hypnotist would work.

“We always say that if we can’t get you a white elephant, perhaps we can get you a pink elephant,” says Nargil, who informs us that, “the word ‘no’ really doesn’t exist. It’s a word concierges rebel against.” Of course, not all concierge requests are quite so extravagant or

preposterous. Some of the most common tasks that concierges undertake include: taking care of travel arrangements, from confirming flights and seat assignments to securing travel permits and visas; making reservations at restaurants of nightclubs that are difficult to get into; booking theater or concert tickets; scheduling sightseeing tours and shopping excursions; personal and grocery shopping; providing directions to local attractions; renting a car or limo or arranging for transport to and from the airport; replacing a toothbrush, toothpaste or other personal items that a traveller forgot to pack for his trip; obtaining medical prescriptions; finding fax or printing facilities in

emergency situations; finding storage for luggage until a guest checks in or out; planning a corporate meeting, party or wedding; arranging for an interpreter to assist a foreign guest; booking spa and beauty or medical appointments; packing and unpacking services for clients moving into new offices or apartments; arranging for cleaning, cooking, gardening or childcare services; arranging for flowers or gift hampers to be sent to family, friends or clients.

From mundane to the marvelous, a concierge service worth its salt will try to arrange it for you. It’s like having your own genie, but getting an unlimited number of wishes — for a price, of course.

Make It Happen

From credit card to phone companies to travel planners, companies are giving premium clients what they value: someone to arrange everything for them. Here’s a sampling American Express Platinum Card Concierge staff can assist you day and night with tasks like finding a house painter or arranging for a private beachside dinner with champagne and flowers. Call Platinum Card Concierge at 1-617-622-6756; www217.americanexpress.com Concierge Service International Inc. This Manhattan-based provider offers assistance in various locations across the globe. The Executive Assistance package is tailored to help business executives and individuals handle all their travel and logistic needs.

The Corporate offers companies value-added services that will help enhance customer relations.

Some of their services include the hire of private jets and yacht charters, translation services, pet care, hiring caterers and bartenders and sourcing for limited edition or hard to find merchandise. Trivia: Michael Morris, the president of the company used to work as a bellhop! www.conciergeserviceintl.com Quintessentially This service works on a membership basis, where members get access to information and assistance 24/7.

Working with thousands of suppliers worldwide, the company has specially trained multilingual staff and is available in almost every major city. Members are offered a personal account manager, whose job is to give personalised attention and complete lifestyle management. What’s more, members get preferential deals when planning trips using Quintessentially. www.quintessentially.com Quotient TravelPlanner Quotient specialises in customised travel. Whether it’s driving around Europe in a vintage sportscar or going solo across Asia, they can plan everything for you. All you have to do is show up. www.travelplanner.com.sg Vertu Concierge One of the perks when you purchase the high-end Vertu mobile phone is a year of concierge service called Vertu Concierge for free. Operated by Ten UK in London, the service is accessed through a special button called the “Concierge key” at the side of every phone. The service will allow you to speak to a team of assistants available to help around the clock. www.vertu.com VIP Concierge Services International They offer a wide range of services from exotic travel to special event coordination and private staffing, interior design services to luxury real estate. Their specialty is complicated travel arrangements to exclusive destinations—whether you require an English speaking tour-guide or a limousine in Timbuktu, a villa in St. Barth, or your own private island in the Caribbean. www.vipcsi.com Visa Signature Concierge Members can access the service via the website or through a toll-free phone number: 800-953-7392 to speak directly with a Visa Concierge representative. The concierge can make hotel and restaurant reservations, obtain hard-to get tickets, make restaurant reservations, and help you select the perfect gift. www.visasignatureconcierge.com

guidelines hotelupdate

text and photography By lin weiwen (WOLFGANG KRUEGER); WWW.SHANGRILA.COM (hotel photos)

THE

CHALLENGES OF BEING

It’s another Monday morning bustle. Tokyo Station spews its executives onto the streets and into their skyscrapers in Marunouchi district. But here on the 37th floor of the Horizons Club Lounge in Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, all is serene and dreamy.

For casual observers, the fact that the Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo is the luxury hotel group’s first property in Japan may come as a surprise, considering the dozens of hotels it has planted throughout Asia.

“I think it’s not a secret that the decision making in Japan takes a little longer than in other countries,” replies Wolfgang Krueger, the hotel’s eloquent general manager, when asked about the hotel’s seemingly overdue arrival.

“Tokyo has been on our list for a few years now,” adds the German, who is in his 40s. “There are several factors that come into consideration when you open a hotel anywhere in the world, such as the location and whether you want to lease. In a city like Tokyo, not many opportunities like that come along. The land is restricted and you need to find the right partner.”

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FIRST Wolfgang Krueger, General Manager of Shangri-La Tokyo, speaks on the challenges of running the first Shangri-La Hotel in Japan

The 202-room hotel occupies the 27th to 37th floors of the Marunouchi Trust Tower Main Building, a mixed-use edifice.

It opened officially on March this year.

Kr ueger, who was the General Manager of ShangriLa’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, Taipei before moving to Tokyo in November 2007 to oversee the hotel’s development, reveals that he “did not express his interest” when early word got around that a Shangri-La hotel will take off in Tokyo.

“I was very content where I was [in Taipei],” he muses. “But they needed someone in place

by September 2007 in Tokyo [for the hotel], and they called me: ‘Would you like to go?’ For anyone in our career, if you get asked to open a hotel in Tokyo, it’s a great honour.”

Closer Scrutiny on Quality To k y o’s p a c k e d l u x u r y hospitality market leaves little space for new players who fail to win the hearts and imagination of potential customers. Krueger is confident that Shangri-La’s well-established reputation in Asia would be the hotel’s key strength.

“A large number of Japanese people know the brand, and would like to experience the brand in Tokyo,” he says.

“I think we have stayed true to our image; we haven’t tried to design our hotel into something that you can no longer identify with Shangri-La Hotels. We have also given some slight Japanese elements to our interior design.

“We are not your traditional 600-room Shangri-La hotel. We have all the facilities, but on a smaller scale. We are like a boutique Shangri-La hotel.”

Japan’s status as a mature, savvy market means the consumers “…are persistent in

opposite page: Marunochi Trust Tower with the Tokyo station on the foreground.

THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: One of the first tasks in training local staff: train them to make decisions; Wolfgang Krueger, General Manager of Shangri-La Tokyo; lobby of the hotel’s famous CHI The Spa

the demand for quality, whether it’s ‘software’ or ‘hardware.’” For Krueger, this is the most acute dissonance between Tokyo and the other international markets he has worked in during his hotel career.

“Sometimes when you go into undeveloped markets, the hotels tend to be the centre of the community, or the most developed buildings in the destination. But in Japan, it doesn’t matter where you go. The market is very luxury focused.

The Japanese have an enormous pride in whatever they do; they have a sound understanding of quality in every aspect of life,” he explains.

He is also surprised at the large number of feedback he has received from his Japanese guests, who are generally not known to be opinionated people.

“When you work outside of Japan, people like to say: ‘Oh, Japanese customers don’t like to give feedback, they just don’t come back [if they don’t like it].’ I think that’s probably true to some extent. But here in their own country, they are very willing to give comments. And this is our biggest opportunity to listen to them seriously.”

He reveals that the largest component of their market is

the Japanese leisure market, while the international corporate market sees a vibrant response from Asia, thanks to the hotel group’s strong brand presence in the region.

Setting Up The protracted decision making in corporate Japan may put the brakes on a swift closure, but Krueger finds that such an approach does have its benefits, which surface in the post-transaction stages.

“The workmanship of this hotel is fantastic. You spend a little more time in the preparation phase, but less time rectifying after that,” he says.

“That means in the planning phase, enough time was spent to ensure that the right contractors and the right materials were selected. It helped us to have a more complete product in the end.”

Another different, but no less vital, challenge was to inculcate a sense of selfempowerment among the Japanese staff to get them comfortable with the work ethos of their international company.

Thus, a small number of foreign staff were recruited from other Shangri-La hotels to inform and train the Japanese staff on the hotel’s work practices.

“Many of our Japanese staff operate out of their comfort zones. Here, we ask our people to make their own decisions.

But in a Japanese organisation, decision making is by group consensus; there’s no culture to make an individual decision.

As an international company, we can’t work like that. I think the Japanese people we hired are prepared to take up this challenge,” he stresses.

Now that the first ShangriLa Hotel has taken its place among the steel and glass of Tokyo, you do wonder if a blueprint has been drafted for another Shangri-La Hotel in Japan. But Krueger maintains that the company doesn’t have plans for other Japanese cities at the moment. The company’s current focus is to strengthen the brand positioning of Shangri-La, Tokyo—and then move on to available opportunities.

“It’s not just about opening a hotel, it’s about bringing Shangri-La to Japan,” muses Krueger, on his hotel’s entry.

“It’s important to have a good amount of respect for what you are doing. If you don’t respect the challenge, if you think it’s a given that you are here, and that it’s just another hotel, you’d be setting yourself up for failure.”

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corphub mumbai

text by Sharmila Rajah | Photography by DANCHITNIS, Cizella babcock, STEVE EVANS, SVEN LINDNER, swami stream

AFTER The Dust Has

SETTLED

www.tajhotels.com

Mumbai has had a difficult year. But its recovery says much for the business sector’s resilience as much as the city’s survival instinct

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The panic and anger have subsided. People have long returned to the streets. In fact, Mumbai, India’s financial and cultural capital, is very much on the threshold to recovery.

Three or four new glass and steel skyscrapers that you don’t remember seeing the day before have fast risen and everywhere you look, there’s heavy roadwork.

This is not surprising because Mumbai is renowned for her resilience; her “Mumbai spirit” is irrepressible.

Mumbai came under attack in at least seven different locations in November last year.

A terrorising combination of gunfire and blasts rocked hotels, hospitals, cafes, the police headquarters, and train station.

The city’s iconic landmarks were up in flames; city life came to a standstill. Terrorists killed about 170 people and injured some 300. They targeted everyone—foreigners included.

Investigations have so far

established that the terrorists were from neighbouring Pakistan and affiliated to the banned militant group, Lashkar-e-Taiba.

Since then Pakistan has arrested some six suspects believed to be linked to the attacks. The heightened tension between India and Pakistan has resulted in a massive loss of about US$40 million in Indian exports to its neighbour.

Last year wasn’t the first time Mumbai felt the brunt of ter rorists—a series of 13 explosions killed hundreds in 1993; in 2006 over 200 people died in train bombings. Each time, Mumbai has come back, fighting. Though last November’s attacks have receded into the background, no Mumbaikar

has totally forgotten what happened. As the lone surviving gunman’s trial gets underway, ar tists, teachers, clerks, entrepreneurs, film stars and workers (all 14 million of them) are demanding answers and changes. If anything, the attacks, Mumbai’s version of 9/11, has exposed vividly the government’s weakness in handling such a crisis, mainly in securing calm and order. Public sentiment had judged them guilty—this reaction is understandable. Indians have begun demanding for tightened security and better intelligence.

The government has responded, and is making amends.

Positive Action Mumbai will become the first

OPPOSITE PAGE: A view of the Taj hotel and the Gateway of India, iconic symbols of Mumbai THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: Mumbai street scene; tourists and locals flock to the Gateway

city in India to get its own regional National Security Guard (NSG) commandos. This will drastically cut down the response time of the counter-terrorism force in the event of another attack (it took the NSG nine hours to reach both the Taj Mahal Palace (Taj) and Trident hotels from Delhi last November).

The Mumbai hub is located on a 23-acre site in Marol, adjacent to the Maharashtra Police Training School and close to domestic and international airports. The local Maharashtra police force is to coordinate closely with the NSG during counter-terror operations. The Maharashtra police are raising the bar higher—putting together their own counter-terror agency called Force One with 268 commandos. The federal government has so far set up 20 Counter Insurgency and Anti-Terrorism Schools to train local police personnel, the first respondents to a scene. Police will be equipped with AK-47 rifles, as well as top grade bulletproof vests and helmets once they’ve undergone intensive training that includes simulated AK-47 firing practice.

Coastal security has become top priority especially when Mumbai’s Colaba coast was the entry point for the terrorists.

Nine months after the attacks, the Maharashtra state government not only plans to buy 24 speedboats, 25 trawlers and several helicopters to patrol the coast, but will set up 12 new police stations along the 720km stretch. Roughly 500 police personnel will be trained in coastal security. If anything, the events of November 2008 have proven to be a catalyst for newer, more extensive initiatives in training and recruitment.

Public and private hospitals, shopping malls, train stations and cinemas have implemented basic security measures like the

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THIS PAGE: Life has returned to the city as these photos show, but people have learned to be more vigilant

installation of metal detectors and closed circuit television cameras. Similarly, luxury hotels have stepped up security measures that involve screening guests’ baggage plus the deployment of more security personnel. Prior to November, anyone could walk into the Taj’s m a r b l e - f l o o r e d l o b b y.

Nowadays, armed guards roam its corridors. The Taj is also training staff to deal with hostage situations and bomb blasts.

On the federal level, Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh has revived an old proposal to for m an anti-ter rorist intelligence and investigation agency, something like the United States Federal Bureau of Investigation, to coordinate actions against terrorism, and is strengthening existing

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anti-terror laws.

Other Issues But like it or not, in the fervour to pursue terrorists, the federal government cannot ignore issues that matter—the country’s toxic cocktail of hardcore poverty (80% of its population still lives on less than US$2 a day), ineffective public schools (40% of eight to 11-year olds enrolled cannot read), deep-rooted corruption in public service, and the political solutions in Gujerat and Kashmir.

the return of Business Mumbai can seem as impenetrable as it is imposing.

It’s a city of such extremes— grand architecture glittering above flimsy shantytowns, above it all, the ceaseless tug-of-war

between faith, tradition, modernity, and commerce.

Mumbai has a long history and its traditions are deep. While tradition forges on regardless— incense-filled temples, crammed markets—progress also never sleeps. Life in the city spreads out onto the pavements, into the markets and along the curve of Marine Drive, which skirts the Arabian Sea. Business has returned, unable to ignore Mumbai’s large consumer market, which generates 5% of the country’s total gross domestic product.

Many of India’s conglomerates and five of the Fortune Global 500 companies are based in Mumbai. Many foreign banks and financial institutions, with the World Trade Center being the most prominent, are all located here. Mumbai accounts for a quarter of India’s industrial output, 40% of its maritime trade and 70% of its capital transactions.

After the initial wariness recedes, travellers will once again be able to appreciate the gems that lie beneath. Take a stroll along the Colaba foreshore.

You’ll soon pass the Gateway of India and the regal Taj. In terms of sheer opulence, Mumbai stands in awe and in the shadow of the mighty Taj, one of the chief attractions of the city. The attacks have left surprisingly few

scars on the Taj’s exterior. The hotel remains impressive, a testament to the city’s resilience.

The more badly damaged sections, under the turrets and domes, however, will not be restored until 2010. The targets chosen were not just Mumbai landmarks but symbols of India’s deepening connections to the global economy. The targeting of Westerners and especially the Jewish community clearly indicated involvement of groups with a global agenda.

Officials and analysts are dead right to call the attacks a threat to the idea of India as an open, secular democracy. And in each case, what terrifies the public is not simply the attacks themselves but the intricate network that lies in shadows behind them. If Mumbai is to progress, it needs to carry on with nor mal business, to return to its old self, as it were.

However, according to the Indian High Commission’s first secretary VKV Raman (who is based in Kuala Lumpur), life is indeed back to normal.

“Mumbai is a living city. But people are, of course, on their guard. They’re more vigilant.

There was some decline in tourist arrivals during the initial period but travellers are re t u r n i n g . S e c u r i t y a n d intelligence are better. Mumbai is better prepared.”

corphub china text by Michele Koh | Photography by Eric Charlton, ADDICTIVE PICASSO, RAHIMS, OOR WALLIE

IRONY

Often criticised for her role in environmental degradation, it’s ironic that China hopes to dominate the renewable energy industry around three decades ago, a first time visitor to the Republic of China might envisage tall pristine mountains, pandas in the wilderness and salubrious streets where the main mode of transport is the bicycle.

Now, the initiate would more likely brace himself for traffic jams, smog covered grey skies, nearby factories spitting coal fumes, and towns that are fast transforming into dust bowls.

Today, China has overtaken the United States as the world’s largest emitter of greenhouse gases, with 16 of the most highly polluted cities in the world found within her borders. She uses more coal—the dirtiest but most readily available

fuel source—than the US, the European Union, and Japan combined; acid rains caused by sulphur dioxide and nitrogen from coal-fired plants affect one-third of Chinese territory and is the cause of acid rain that falls on Seoul and Tokyo. More cars, inefficient use of fuel and electricity, water pollution and desertification, corruption in the government, and a generally apathetic stance toward global warming all contribute to the problem of environmental destruction in China.

The Price of Prosperity Pollution-related diseases kill an estimated 750,000 people each year, making it the second

leading cause of death among Chinese after cigarette smoking.

Close to 500 million Chinese lack access to safe drinking water and industrial waste flowing down waterways has led to coastlines being swamped by red algae, which leaves large sections of the ocean incapable of sustaining marine life. Severe water shortages have transformed once fecund farmlands into barren desert, and many of China’s industrial towns and cities are shrouded in toxic grey smog. Only 1% of the country’s 560 million city dwellers are breathing air considered safe by the European Union and children are sickened or killed by lead poisoning every day.

When Deng Xiaoping came into power, the Communist Party developed an addiction to fast economic growth. But because of the size of China’s population, the speed of expansion, and the absence of a culture of conservation, the price paid for such rapid growth is high. Poor planning and infrastructure design has resulted in most residential and commercial buildings having bad insulation, which means that buildings require greater energy usage for heating. One of the biggest catastrophes of such oversight in a construction project was the Three Gorges Dam, which resulted in landslides, erosion, deterioration of aquatic life and

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OPPOSITE PAGE: Smog over cities like Beijing has become all-too common THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Industry fuels China, but wreaks havoc on the environment; a busy street in Kowloon; pollution-related diseases kill an estimated 750,000 people each year, making it the second leading cause of death among Chinese after cigarette smoking

the displacement of hundreds of thousands of people along the Yangtze River.

Green Politics Bad press, economic boycotts, rising health care costs and international political pressure has forced China to take concrete action to ameliorate the situation.

At July’s G8 Summit, Chinese officials said they would work toward achieving a low-carbon economy, but this could only be done slowly, to ensure minimum social and economic upheaval.

Whether or not these plans will materialise is uncertain.

In the past few years, the Communist Party has paid lip service to conservation, but most of the targets they have set for energy efficiency have gone unmet. Companies who are guilty of heavy pollution continue to pollute because the penalties levied by the government are so paltr y,

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companies would rather pay the fines that pay the larger amounts necessary to make their factories green. Beijing refuses to place mandatory caps on carbon emission and also does not use tax policies and market-oriented incentives for conservation that has worked in other parts of the world. The government still controls the price of gasoline and subsidises the cost of driving; it refuses to incorporate surcharges on electricity and coal to reflect the true cost to the environment.

Enforcement of environmental “laws” is tinged with corruption, and provincial officials still ignore environmental edicts and continue to reopen mines and factories deemed environmentally unfriendly by the central government.

When Hu Jintao became the Communist Party chief in 2002 and Wen Jiabao became prime minister, they agreed to place sustainable growth at the forefront of China’s

development. In 2004, Hu Jintao endorsed “comprehensive environmental and economic accounting”—otherwise known as the “Green GDP.” This system would recalculate the gross domestic product to reflect the cost of pollution and the annual damage to human health and the environment in each province, thus serving as a performance test for government and party officials that would reflect the leadership’s environmental priorities. But the results were so shocking, with almost zero growth in most areas, that the project was shelved and stripped of its official influence.

One argument that the government often falls back on is that rich countries are the main culprits of global warming in the first place and should therefore find a way to solve the problem rather than hampering China’s development. “ Ty p i c a l l y, i n d u s t r i a l countries deal with green problems when they are rich,”

said Ren Yong, a climate expert at the Center for Environment and Economy in Beijing. “We have to deal with them while we are still poor. There is no model for us to follow.”

China’s environmental agency only has about 200 fulltime workers compared with 18,000 in the United States’ Environmental Protection Agency, and much of the decisions are still made by the state council. China does have an army of amateur environmentalists who expose pollution and pressure local government officials. However, private individuals and nongovernment organisations take great risks when attempting to complain against the system. At least two leading environmental organisers have been prosecuted and several others have received sharp warnings about their criticism of local officials.

“The main reason behind the continued deterioration of

the environment is a mistaken view of what counts as political achievement, the crazy expansion of high-polluting, high-energy industries has spawned special interests. Protected by local governments, some businesses treat the natural resources that belong to all the people as their own private property,” said Pan Yue, the deputy minister of the State Environmental Protection Administration.

Renewable Energy For a country that causes so much devastation to the planet, it is ironic that China has been gaining momentum as a leader in renewable energy development.

China has made much headway and become a dominant producer of hydropower, wind power, solar power and biomass and biofuel.

In 2006, about 16% of China’s electricity came from renewable resources; by 2007, the total installations of hydropower

in the country reached 145,000 MW and this year, China overtook the United States as the world’s largest market for wind energy.

The 2000s saw an increase in technological development and investments in renewable energy and the renewable energy industry has become a major part of China’s economic stimulus strategy.

In July, top US energy and commerce officials Steven Chu and Gary Locke visited Beijing to discuss global warming and clean energy with Chinese leaders.

They voiced their concerns over China using protectionist tactics to become the global leader in renewable energy.

Just as Japan and South Korea made it difficult for Detroit automakers to compete in their home countries, China is also implementing protectionist policies that would give local companies advantages and keep foreign investors out of the market. Mr. Chu and Mr. Locke

together with representatives from other Western companies, complained about Beijing’s green protectionism. China has become the world’s largest manufacturer of solar cells and panels, exporting over 95% of its output to the US and Japan, but when it authorised its first solar power plant, it required that 80% of the equipment be made in China.

This year, the Chinese government took bids for 25 large contracts to supply wind turbines, and every contract was won by a domestic company, while the six multinational companies that submitted bids were disqualified on various technical grounds. The Chinese government banned installation of wind turbines with a capacity of less than 1,000 kilowatts, conveniently excluding the 850-kilowatt designs, the most popular size for European manufacturers.

Foreign companies, in particular

European businesses, are starting to express misgivings about China’s promotion of its local manufacturers. “This is not a level playing field,” said Boris Klebensberger, the chief operating officer of SolarWorld AG, which is based in Bonn.

The rise of renewable energy industries and the government’s desire to guard it perhaps serves three purposes. It would first and foremost help China to secure it’s own supply of fuel and energy for domestic use.

With fluctuating oil prices, world demand for alternative energy sources is greater than ever and China can further stimulate its economy by selling renewable energy products and expertise. And on a more subconscious level, by associating itself with renewable energy, China might just be able to salvage its reputation as one of the world’s biggest polluters, or at least divert attention away from it.

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Special Feature

island resorts

Conrad Maldives

Additional reporting Teà Villamor Photography by Alila Villas, Banyan Tree Resorts, Bellaroea Resort & Spa, www.ghmotels.com, Conrad Maldives, Jumeirah Group, www.southaustralia.com, www.southernoceanlodge.com

Another Day In

Paradise Has the lacklustre economy put a dampener on island resorts’ expansion plans? What are they doing to ensure their properties do not undermine their environments? WEIWEN LIN looks at how these resorts are doing, their hold on travellers, and what’s next on the horizon

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Conrad Maldives

T

Bellaroca

Alila Villas Soori

he economic slide late last year has had the tourism industry treading deep water in 2009. Yet, one of the positive things that were brought to light by the economic doldrums was the steady growth of travel in Asia Pacific—until the crisis hit.

Statistics from the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) show that in the first quarter of 2008, international arrivals into Asia Pacific hit a year-on-year increase of 8.9%, with total arrival figures exceeding 94 million. If the data is predictive of the future of travel in this part of the world, industry players can expect to be back on track once the economic monster has been to put to sleep. To be sure, such a debacle may take a while in coming, even if as of this writing, there have been glimmers of economic recovery. Just how secure or tenuous that recovery is, still remains to be seen.

Latest figures by PATA indicate that the numbers of international visitor arrivals to Asia Pacific fell by an estimated 6% in Jan-June 2009 compared to the first half last year. The extremely challenging operating environment continued to dampen tourism demand. The

H1N1 outbreak in May, the second major flu outbreak this decade, also caused an almost sudden 10% decline in visitor numbers. There was, however, a slight improvement in June.

“The six percent loss in international arrivals in real terms equates to almost 10.5 million fewer visits to the Asia Pacific, reflecting the extremely challenging operating environment,” says PATA Chairman Mrs Phornsiri Manoharn. “There is however some cause for cautious optimism for the second half of the year as the global economy is currently showing more stability with some signs of nascent growth.”

Thus, it’s no secret that the airline and hotel industries have been hit by the recession. Hotels, in particular, have been very frank about the situation, even if majority of them are rallying behind promos and special offers.

One segment of the hotel industry that might bear watching is island resorts. This year, several new players have entered the market with more in the pipeline for next year.

General Hotels Management, for one, is expanding with nine high-end properties next year, two of them on island getaways.

How are the region’s island resorts faring in the current climate?

Are they putting expansion back on hold? Data concerning arrival figures into island resorts in Asia Pacific is unavailable from PATA. But, the industry’s big players remain sanguine about expansion.

NEW SHORES “Our resorts in the Maldives are performing very well,” says Arthur Kiong, Managing Director of Sales and Marketing for Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts. “We are particularly excited that our new product in the Maldives—the InOcean Villas at Angsana Velavaru, a cluster of stand alone water villas perched in the ocean—is fast gaining the attention of travellers in Europe, Japan, Korea and China, and is already 30% ahead of budget.”

Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts will also open Banyan Tree Ungasan, Bali, by the end of the year, and Banyan Tree Samui, Koh Samui, in the first quarter of next year.

Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts removed the drapes from their very first luxury resort in the Maldives last July—the Shangri-La Villingili Resort and Spa. Sitting on the southern-most tip of Addu Atoll, the resort features 142 spacious stand-alone villas, which include treehouse villas perched three metres above the ground; a landmark style in the Maldives.

“In a unique location featuring luxury accommodation and offerings, we are confident that Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Conrad Maldives

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Special Feature

island resorts

Spa will be the top of mind destination when visitors think of the Maldives,” says Jens Moesker, the resort’s General Manager.

Tourist favourite Bali continues to see more development.

Alila Hotels and Resorts is doing a triple act on the island this year, with their opening of Alila Villas Uluwatu last June, an all-pool villa property located on the island’s south coast, and the opening of Alila Villas Soori in November. The resort chain also unveiled a new property in the Maldives last month—the Alila Villas Hadahaa, a collection of 50 island and aqua villas in the North Huvadhoo Atoll.

“We are proud to launch this new concept of ultra luxurious all-villa hotel residences in Bali. Apart from offering the ultimate in luxury living, Alila Villas Uluwatu will surprise guests with its high-level of personalised service and luxury options,” says Sean Brennan, General Manager for Alila Villas Uluwatu.

It’s hard not to see the allure. White sand beaches, pristine blue waters, unparalleled luxury…island resorts provide the proverbial “ideal vacation.”

“Travellers who go to island resorts are looking for freedom and an environment where they can renew and recharge and leave their city worries behind,” explains Kiong, on the motivations behind the sand-seeking visitors.

Dubai-based luxury international hospitality group, Jumeirah, is setting up a private island resort in Phuket, succinctly named Jumeirah Private Island Phuket. A part of the group’s expansion into Asia Pacific, the resort will open in 2011, occupying 56,000 sq m of Koh Raet, an untouched tropical island offshore from Ao Po Bay, north east of Phuket. It will adopt a multi-faceted role, offering residential villas, accommodation villas and a super yacht marina.

Genevieve Picard, Corporate Communications Manager for Jumeirah Group, highlights that the Jumeirah Private

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Island Phuket is for those who “seek exclusivity, discretion, anonymity and safety.” “[The resort] handles private transfers through Thai immigration and customs, arrival on island via helicopter or private speed boat, and secured access between homes and the resort,” adds Picard.

COAST GUARD As more unspoilt islands find their habitats populated by resorts, questions about sustainable coastal tourism inevitably start to crop up. Are island resorts doing their part to ensure that the island’s resources are not being abused or compromised?

An authority on coastal tourism and coastal management issues, Associate Professor Dr. Wong Poh Poh of the Department of Geography in the National University of Singapore feels there should be a stringent form of control to ensure that resorts that preach sustainable tourism do not merely perform lip service. This would allow “coastal and marine ecosystems to remain intact for everyone to enjoy, and coastal communities to sustain their livelihoods.”

Dr. Wong cites some sustainable coastal tourism methods: “We can use artificial means, such as non-polluting practices like sewage treatment plants to replace direct discharge to sea, and energy-saving light bulbs. We can also use natural methods like innovative architectural design to minimise use of air-conditioning.

It’s best to preserve lagoons, coastal dunes, forests and mangroves and integrate them into the resort design.”

Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts is targeting to plant 2,000 trees per year within each resort between 2007 and 2016 under its Green Communities initiative, says Michael Kwee, Co-ordinating Director for Banyan Tree Global Foundation Limited.

“Greening Communities strives to offset a significant amount of carbon emissions created by the company’s operations, while promoting awareness of climate change in the community,” he explains.

The group’s community programme, Seedlings, also offers support to children considered at risk of societal exclusion, through mentorship, scholarship and internship.

Taking sustainable practices into official recognition is Alila Villas

business hotels

Banyan Tree Ungasan

Southern Ocean Lodge

Uluwatu. Its environmentally sustainable design—such as having the villas blend into the natural landscape and using traditional locally sourced materials like local bamboo for ceilings and hand-cut stone for garden walls—earned it the Green Globe’s Best Practice Building Planning and Design certification.

Alila Villas Uluwatu is the first resort in Bali to meet the standards of the Green Globe, an international certification programme for the tourism industry based on the Agenda 21 principles for Sustainable Development endorsed by 182 heads of state at the United Nations Rio Earth Summit in 1992.

Picard reveals that Jumeirah Private Island Phuket will design an integrated rainwater collection scheme, thermal insulation in roof structures to reduce air-conditioning energy consumption, and double-glazed windows and patio doors to encourage thermal efficiency.

“Tourist education and awareness can be a powerful method to prevent unsuitable coastal tourism,” says Dr. Wong. “Technology is improving and costs are coming down, so resort developers should embrace sustainable coastal tourism.”

ONE WITH THE COMMUNITY

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It stands to reason that since the environment plays a big part in why these island resorts are thriving, that they will do their part to preserve it. From design, to sourcing locally for food, to hiring staff from the community, these properties have been implementing programmes to ensure that their hotels are integrated into the community.

Recognition for efforts like this is of course a good way of attracting like-minded travellers. “I am extremely proud that Alila Villas Uluwatu obtained the Green Globe certification,” says Brennan.

“This reinforces Alila’s commitment to preserve the natural surroundings of its properties while executing an innovative eco-friendly architectural framework which also enhances and complements the whole Alila experience.”

Aside from the design elements of the resort, Alila Villas Uluwatu has also teamed up with a local waste management company to

Special Feature

island resorts

Island-Hopping Love the island vibe? Some recommendations on where to go in the next few years

PANAMA VISTA US-based Amble Resorts, a resort development firm, plans to build a resort on a secluded island in Panama. Known as The Resort at Isla Palenque, it will style itself as a boutique hotel and also offer oceanfront homes. First phase of development is slated for completion in late 2011, while preconstruction sales will commence in early 2010.

NIGHT ENTRY Island access just got easier at Frégate Island Private, Seychelles. The island has launched Seychelles’ first night operational helipad.

Guests can now take the helicopter to avoid staying overnight in Mahé while en route to or from connecting flights.

BRAZILIAN LUXURY The Aquapura Ceara Resort and Spa, designed by UK-based architectural group Cláudio Silvestrin, will open in Praia Balbino, Brazil, in 2011. The resort will sit on an island in a saltwater lake surrounded by bungalows.

DOWN UNDER ADVENTURE Southern Ocean Lodge in Kangaroo Island, Australia has been getting glowing accolades since it opened in March last year. Likewise, Kangaroo Island is recognised as one of the world’s best ecotourism destinations, garnering notice from publications, tourism association, and from travellers.

Southern Ocean Lodge

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FAVOURITE HAUNTS With a reputation for conceptualising, developing and operating exclusive and stylish hotels and resorts worldwide, GHM (General Hotels Management) is on a rapid expansion course with no less than nine new properties under development throughout the world.

Two to watch out for are The Yamu, Phuket, Thailand and The Serai Club, Bali.

The Yamu, a Philippe Starck design, is a 32-acre resort and villa development located on a private peninsula on Phuket’s east coast, approximately 25 minutes from Phuket International Airport. At 40 metres above sea level, The Yamu captures both sunrise and sunset vistas

Jumeirah Private Island Phuket

whilst offering sweeping 360-degree views of the spectacular limestone formations of Phang Nga Bay and the surrounding islands and headlands of Phuket Island.

Secluded in an exclusive estate in Jimbaran, Bali, The Serai Club combines the signature touch of several noted international designers including architect Robert Nation, interior designer Jaya Ibrahim, landscape architect Karl Princic, and lighting designer Nathan Thompson of TFB Australia. Twenty-three private villas featuring Balinese-inspired contemporary designs will represent the pinnacle of tropical luxury, privacy and

Yamu Club

security. The Serai Club will also offer personalised house services, dining venues, spa services and easy proximity to cultural attractions.

SECLUDED SANCTUARY Managed by Genesis Hotels and Resorts Corporation, Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa, opened last February 2009 and is scheduled for full operations by the last quarter of this year. Situated in the province of Marinduque, Philippines, the island resort, with its white Santorini-inspired architecture on rolling terrain and craggy cliffs, should make adventure lovers and ecotourists sit up and take notice.

business hotels

Alila Villas Hadahaa’s rich marine life

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encourage waste minimisation. In an effort to reduce pollution and minimise noise, electric-powered buggies are used around the property.

Energy conservation is also encouraged by rerouting heat generated by air-conditioning units to heat water in the resort. There is also a recyclable grey water system that directs used water from washing machines and bathrooms to irrigate the property’s gardens.

Moreover, in line with the United Nations mandate to support local economic and social progress, approximately 40% of its staff are from the local community.

“Bali is still very much governed by the community,” says Brennan, adding, “I don’t think you can get anything done here without the consent of the community—from building the structures, to putting in the necessary pipes, for instance.” In fact, Brennan states that the resort is so integrated into the community that locals even cut across the property for easier access from part of the island to the next.

For its part, Conrad Maldives Rangali Island has a programme that illustrates the synergy of resort and community. The resort has teamed up with local education institute, Salaam School to provide a hospitality-training course for Maldivian students. The three-and-a-half month programme is offered on a complimentary basis per year to 25 students from all over the Maldives, giving them the opportunity to gain nationally certified skills for entry into the hospitality industry and to attain certification of a key personal development programme.

The Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is one of the largest employers of local staff in the Maldives.

“We’re always looking at ways we can give back and invest in the local community,” says Mr Carsten Shieck, General Manager of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. “Helping to develop the next generation of tourism and hospitality graduates is one way we can support the backbone of the Maldivian economy and ensure people continue to enjoy this region for years to come.”

Mrs Aminath Arif, founder of the Salaam School says, “We were delighted when the Conrad Maldives agreed to support this training programme as it is important that these young people have the chance to go through technical vocational education before they step into the work force.’’ Founded in 1999, Salaam School provides vocational training, career enhancement and community development programmes to the Maldivian youth.

The school relies on local partners to support its mission and to provide trainees with transferable skills for employment.

The tuition takes place on the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island’s neighbouring Mandhoo. The resort also works closely with the local community in preserving the Maldives for future generations.

Initiatives include sponsorship of local teachers on neighbouring islands, as well as support of a groundbreaking Whale Shark Research Project to help shape the government’s policy on the preservation of rare creatures.

destinationtheme parks

Photography by www.disney.com, www.genting.com.my, legoland.com, www.SEAWORLD.MYFUN.COM.AU

Thrills, spills, and

IMAGINARY WORLDS

Self-contained little universes, theme parks are the perfect destinations for the family. There is something for everyone—even your inner child.

KATHY KHOO tours us around some of the best Amusing Asia is big business.

Attendance is up in the region’s theme parks and amusement centres, as growing affluence and increased leisure time signal more patrons. Investment in the industry has risen. To date, over US$1 billion (B) has been earmarked for investment in Universal Studios Singapore alone. In the next two years, most brands are either opening a new park somewhere in Asia Pacific or expanding their existing locations. In order to stay fresh

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and exciting and entice crowds to return, parks are adding yet more attractions or designing and creating new rides.

All the big names are represented in Asia or have plans to enter the market, with Disney and their enduring success leading the pack and Universal and Warner Brothers hot on their heels, to get their share of Asia’s lucrative pie.

Theme parks, as the term suggest, are centred around themes. There are water

parks with water rides, cultural villages, animal-based sanctuaries or zoos, amusements based on local characters and popular cartoons or films or just plain extreme rides like rollercoasters.

In Japan, there is practically one theme park (at least) in every prefecture! Both Disney and Universal Studios opened their first parks in Asia, in Japan. Universal Studios Japan in Osaka was one of the most successful new parks to open in the world.

OPPOSITE: Fireworks at Hong Kong Disneyland; on a carousel in Genting Highlands

In their first year of operation, they had 11 million visitors go through their gates. Based on the American studio’s box office hits, the entertainment is all about repackaging the movies in different forms and selling filmmaking magic like special effects, stunts, and movie memorabilia.

What a Ride!

The Japanese have their own popular local characters and many parks are based on

popular cartoons like Hello Kitty. Some, are modelled around a culture or period, like Edo and feudal Japan or a park dedicated to replicating Europe, down to town squares, bistros and cafes.

Nagashima Spa Land and Fuji Q Highland, at the base of Mount Fuji, are for the serious adrenaline junkies. Spa Land boasts the longest rollercoaster in the world and Fuji Q, not only the largest haunted attraction but also, the only 4th

dimension rollercoaster in Asia, which means its seats can rotate 360 degrees forwards and backwards in a controlled manner. These white-knuckle rides are not for the faint-hearted. A unique park is Space World Fukuoka, built by a Japanese steel company with a space camp utilising NASA equipment and a scale-one mock up of a US space shuttle.

Tokyo Disneyland is a prime example of the true and tested formula of how it

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FORM LEFT: Exciting ride at Genting Highlands; Watching a predator safely behind glass at Sea World, Australia

should be done. Arguably the originators of the fantasy world come to life, Disney has thrilled generations of children the world over. Micky-san and his crew transcend culture and language and the comforting familiarity of the strains of It’s a Small World encapsulates what Disney is all about. Like all good real estate, Disney’s location near the bustling hub of Tokyo is nothing short of genius. Accessibility and convenience is key when it means a family day out and travelling with little ones. You can sleep, eat and breathe the fantasy as long as you like. Immersion in the dream is why the magic works.

The park is zoned into different parts to give visitors a taste of adventure, fantasy, the future, the Wild West—whatever tickles your fancy; anchoring it all is Cinderella’s Castle, that symbol of every little princess’s dream.

There is something for everyone: favourite cartoon characters come to life for the tots and the teenage thrill seekers can shoot to the moon and stars on a rollercoaster.

The famed Cirque Du Soleil troupe has a permanent show and theatre here.

Continuing the tested recipe is Hong Kong Disneyland, the second Disney park to open in Asia. Smaller than its counterpart but just as intense, the location was chosen to capitalise on the rich hinterland of greater China. This Disney follows the same blueprint as its US parent but with subtle tweaking to cater for local tastes. Disney dim sum anyone?

Splish-Splash At DisneySea in Japan, it’s all about water.

The aquatic theme extends throughout the entire park, which resembles harbour ports and waterfronts and all the action takes place over, in, on and under water. There are all manner of boats, sea creatures, and live entertainment. It’s a given the sailors, pirates and mermaids will all be coming out to play.

Furthering the maritime theme is

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Hong Kong’s Ocean Park where the under water world and its inhabitants are the stars. Dolphins and sea lions perform, sharks and turtles and all their fishy friends are on show. Also, for some reason, pandas, but then again, this is China. Do not miss the cable car ride across, for the views.

Enlarging on the marine theme is Sea World in the Gold Coast of Australia. On a larger scale and with some heavy speed toys thrown in, Sea World also has dolphins and sea lions and sharks but also penguins and polar bears and jet skis and helicopters to boot!

Aside from the entertainment value, conservation and education is a focal point for these parks. Most have breeding and reef protection programmes and rehabilitation centres for their animals.

Wondrous Worlds Aside from Luna Park in Sydney and Melbourne and Adventure World in Perth, Australia’s biggest and most popular theme parks are clustered in the Gold Coast in Queensland.

Dreamworld is a combination of many “worlds” in one place. It has something for everyone. Wiggles and Nickelodeon for the younger set, extreme rides for the older kids, interactive reality games, IMAX theatre, night carnival, speed sports with fast machines, and wildlife. Also, with the water slides and rides next door in Whitewater World, this theme park is pretty complete in its offerings.

Like Universal, Warner Brothers Movie World has developed entertainment, rides and attractions around the characters and films that they own rights, to. So, all the perennial favourites represented at Warner’s, like the entire cast of Looney Tunes and superheroes Batman and Superman. They too run a Wet ’n’ Wild Waterworld.

Not to be outdone, over in Malaysia, gaming operators Genting have also

developed an integrated all-in-one playground up in the highlands. To ensure the peak is a one-stop destination for the whole family, not only the attendant infrastructure to complement the casino complex is present i.e., hotels, restaurants, shopping and convention facilities but also, both indoor and outdoor theme parks with all the requisite rides, water park, international shows and per formances and more conventional pursuits like cineplexes, bowling alleys and video arcades. Also, SnowWorld brings the winter experience to the tropics and sky diving in a controlled environment.

At Sunway Lagoon, following the trend of many “worlds” in one, the complex is divided into five. The main amusement park with its wild-west themed rides and funfair attractions, the water park, the wildlife park, an Extreme park where you can indulge in extreme activities like go-carting, flying fox, and paintball battles and a Scream park where you can be scared out of your wits with a horror audio-visual experience. The resort is also a common venue for international acts and performances.

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and in South Korea, Everland, the country’s largest theme park, has often been compared to Disneyland in its layout, scale, and atmosphere. Anyone who has spent time in South Korea becomes aware that the corporate conglomerate Samsung, touches many citizen’s lives. One of the biggest employers in the country, it also operates the park. Besides the usual rides, zoo and waterpark, it also boasts the first and largest wooden rollercoaster and race car track, the Everland Speedway.

Lotte World is a recreation complex in Seoul, the capital of South Korea, which consists of an indoor and outdoor amusement park, an island linked by monorail, a Korean folk museum, sporting facilities and theatres. There is also a lake and a castle. The venue for parades, laser shows and even film crew, this park’s signature ride is the Atlantis Adventure, a rollercoaster and flume ride combined.

As the popularity for theme parks continues to grow with each generation of adventure seekers looking for the ultimate rush, the possibilities for future theme parks are endless and only limited by imagination.

Escapism and the stuff of dreams won’t ever go out of style.

Mini-Pentagon of Legoland

It’s A Small World, After All EVEN THEME PARKS HAVE GONE NICHE. HERE’S A SAMPLING Outside Asia Pacific, across USA, and Europe, theme parks are getting more sophisticated in their offerings and ideas. Along with the conventional “bigger and better” parks, some unusual ones are surfacing. Here is our pick of the trendsetters: LEGOLAND Legoland is a chain of Lego-themed parks in USA, UK, Germany and Denmark. Based on the famous Lego toy bricks that fit together to create entire worlds, they have fascinated generations of children. The parks appeal to young families and most of the attractions and rides are suitable for young children. Attractions and rides are also made to appear as if they are built out of Lego bricks. The parks are split into various areas and the rides and attractions in each vary but there are overlaps. All four parks feature Knights Kingdom for example, which is a set of the more popular lines of Lego available. There are plans for the first Legoland in Asia to be opened in Malaysia.

HOLY LAND EXPERIENCE This is a Bibilical theme park and living museum in Orlando, Florida, USA. It has exhibits and recreates the sights and sounds of ancient Jerusalem during the time of Jesus. It has replicas of significant Judeo-Christian sites like the Qumran caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and markets and shops and streets of that era.

It has live shows, musical theatre and educational presentations by Biblical archaeologists.

SANTA-THEMED PARKS Christmas has always been a joyous and popular holiday season—and now, you can enjoy it year-round. There are at least six Santa parks in USA from Indiana to Texas, two in Canada and one each in Sweden and Finland.

They all feature Santa Claus and his elves, his workshop, and post office where children write to Santa with their wish list and Christmas gift shop.

Some of the larger ones also feature sleigh rides and the famous reindeer.

ENVIRONMENTALAND Global Inheritance, a green activist group has opened a unique eco-theme park in Hollywood, USA. It seeks to educate and inform, to encourage social change in an interactive manner, about sustainability and saving our planet by using environmental friendly practices. The exhibits, rides and demonstrations feature activities like recycling and alternative energies and aims to be the venue to host shows and events promoting activism.

DICKENS WORLD Located in Kent in the UK, this theme park is based on the life and times of the famous author Charles Dickens.

The locations and characters in his novels come to life as do mockup buildings and places recreated to give one a sense and feel of the Victorian era.

There are shows and rides and a replica of a Dickensian schoolroom. This park is educational for schoolchildren and a common location for film shoots.

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destinationokinawa

Photography by Japan National Tourism Office, Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ruth Tan, Y. Shimizu

TROPIC

In the island chain of Okinawa in Japan’s southwest, sun, sea, and surf are the order of the day, as RUTH TAN discovers to her delight

NIPPON

Ok i n awa !” t h e you ng m a n exclaimed to us with a big smile, as if the word was enough to explain his group’s high spirits and various stages of undress—clad as they were in bikinis and surf shorts—as they trooped to the hotel lift. In a way, the word is enough. Okinawa is after all where the Japanese head to for their dose of sun, sand, and sea.

We arrived at Naha, the capital late the previous night, on the back of a typhoon. Our mood was understandably as downcast as the weather, but the courtesy and friendliness that greeted us at the airport immediately turned our spirits around.

Okinawa International Airport is a mere 20 minutes from downtown Naha on the south of the island. But our final destination is an hour’s taxi ride away—in one of the gorgeous resorts lined up along the beautiful beaches of Onna Village up north.

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The northern part of the island is a delight for those seeking to simply relax and soak up the culture and nature of Okinawa. The Rizzan Sea Park Hotel Tancha Bay where we stayed is a sprawling property with its own private beach. A family-friendly resort, it offers many leisure facilities, such as marine sports, indoor and outdoor pools, karaoke pub, tennis courts, souvenir shops, small game arcade and even a mini-mart. This proved to be a blessing as rainy weather marked the first two days of our vacation.

Rope in the Open Sea Okinawa is the 47th prefecture of Japan, and refers not only to the main island of Okinawa (Okinawa-honto) but also the southern islands of the Ryukyu archipelago.

Okinawa means “rope in the open sea,” an apt description for this long, narrow

stretch of islands closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan. Made up of 44 inhabited and 117 uninhabited islands, the prefecture is found on the same latitude as other famous beach destinations such as Hawaii, Miami, and Bahamas. Okinawa used to be an independent kingdom—the kingdom of the Ryukyus—which traded with Japan, China, and the rest of Southeast Asia, bringing back influences that can still be felt even today. Okinawans consider themselves “open to the world” and it shows in their culture, food, and way of life.

With the only subtropical climate in Japan and year-round comfortable weather, Okinawa is a major draw for the Japanese, but not many foreign visitors make it to these shores. A pity, since the islands’ tourism infrastructure is extremely well developed. An ancient culture with numerous world heritage sites, a strong crafts tradition

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Ishigaki beach has some of the best snorkelling sports on the island; A shisa lion, guarding the rooftop, a common sight in Okinawa; sanshin-making (sanshin is a three-stringal musical instrument native to Okinawa)

of ceramics, textiles, and glass, breathtaking beaches and bustling local markets await the intrepid traveller.

Good-Value Day Tours The typhoon had thwarted our initial plan to laze on the beach and enjoy a bit of windsurfing. Instead, we arranged to go on one of the many bus tours with the hotel concierge. At 4,800 yen for a seven-hour tour, this was fantastic value as the price included a guide and admission tickets to a butterfly garden, pineapple park, and world-class aquarium. The only drawback: The guide only spoke Japanese, which did provide an interesting counterpoint to the experience.

First up, Ryugujo Butterfly Garden, a theme park offering a spectacular view of the emerald sea and a verdant garden of tropical flora and fauna including the largest butterfly in Japan—the tree nymph butterfly.

The highlight of the park was of course the Butterfly House, a net-enclosed area with over 2,000 butterflies. For those who haven’t been to a butterfly sanctuary, it’s an experience not to be missed. It can get a tad claustrophobic, as the winged creatures will quickly swarm around you especially if you carry a red umbrella or don a red cap—available on loan to visitors.

Apparently, the butterflies favour the colour. It was great fun observing the beautiful creatures up close. For those who like the creepy-crawlies instead of winged creatures, there’s also a small crustacean collection of hermit crabs and coconut crabs on display.

After the butterflies, it was off to Churaumi Aquarium—a definite must-see in Okinawa. The most famous attraction in the Ocean Expo Park, this world-class facility is Japan’s largest and best aquarium.

Ocean Mysteries Home to the world’s largest fishes, the whale sharks and famous manta rays, the Churaumi Aquarium was designed so visitors start the tour of the beach environs and the creatures that live there and gradually journey down into the twilight world of the deep sea.

From the fourth floor entrance, we entered the sea of corals and had a chance to touch living seashells and starfish at the Touch Pool. Further down is The Kuroshio (Black Current) Sea Tank, spanning the second and first floors, no doubt the main attraction of the aquarium. Through the world’s biggest acrylic panel (8.2 m in height, 22.5 in width and 60 cm thick), we enjoyed the grandeur of whale sharks, manta rays, yellow-fin tunas, and bonito swimming

gracefully about in huge schools. It was a mesmerising and soothing sight as we watched the creatures glide by in the cobaltblue world, totally unaware that they were on show to hundreds of visitors. It was so calming to watch the creatures that I recommend that you slot the aquarium tour as your last stop so you can spend time just gazing at the fishes. It’s also a great way to calm kids down after a day’s hectic activity. Refreshed from watching the big fishes, we ventured farther down to the deep-sea zone where the mysterious bioluminescent organisms live. A part of the ocean still shrouded in secrecy, the twilight world of these rare and seldom seen creatures collected from Okinawa’s waters is recreated in the aquarium.

A truly magnificent experience. Next up, pineapples.

Pineapples and Glass House in the Forest You’d think that after viewing the blue world of the whale sharks it would be hard to top the experience—and with pineapples?

True, the prickly fruit would seem to be on the losing end of that proposition, but the Nago Pineapple Park certainly provided fascination of a different kind. Dedicated entirely to the tropical fruit, the park lets visitors in on the various stages of pineapple

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JAPAN’S HIDDEN JEWELS Want to experience Japan, sub tropical style?

Here’s what you need to know of Okinawa— both the island and the prefecture

tickets are bought outside Japan in conjunction with a ticket to Japan. Check their websites for deals.

Getting Around: Interisland flights and ferries are available.

On the bigger islands, the bus services are fairly reliable or you can rent a car. For the smaller islands, you can rent a bicycle or moped for the day.

Stone wall house on Taketomi Island

When to Go: Summer (June to October) can be pretty hot and crowded, depending on which parts of the islands you plan to go.

In winter (November-March), the crowds are smaller, accommodation is less expensive, and, for divers, underwater visibility is the best. However, you may have a problem getting to some of the islands because

inter-island ferry services may not be available.

How to Get There: There are regular flights from mainland Japan to Naha, Okinawa and the Southwest Islands.

Inter-island flights and ferry services are also available. Note that Japan Airlines and ANA may have promos with “visit Japan”-type deals for domestic flights—as long as domestic

growth. The admission ticket includes a ride on a yellow cart through pineapple fields and a tropical garden, and free sampling of a large variety of pineapple products in the adjacent shop.

If you love the prickly fruit, then this is the place for you. We were treated to a veritable pineapple feast. We got to sample as much as we wanted all sorts of pineapple products—from wines to juices, to pineapple pound cake and other pastries—as well as other foodstuff, exotic or otherwise (goya juice, anyone?).

The final stop in the tour was a glass studio set amidst lush greenery, where visitors get to see the glass-making process and have a go at glass-blowing. An extensive array of colourful Ryukyu glassworks and an exclusive collection in collaboration with renowned Japanese calligrapher and

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Where to Go: The Okinawa Prefecture is typically divided into three island archipelagos: Okinawa Islands or Okinawa Shoto (le-jima, Kume, Okinawa Island, Kerama Islands), Miyako Islands (Miyako-jima), Yaeyama Islands (Iriomote, Ishigaki, Yonaguni).

Naha, the capital, is on Okinawa island. Thoroughly modern, it has a new overhead monorail and rapidly expanding skyline of high-rise buildings.

Places to see here: Shuri-jo, the castle ruins of the old Okinawan capital. Kokusai-dori (International Blvd), the main

thoroughfare and Tsuboya pottery district.

so you won’t lack drinking buddies, for sure.

Yakushima, Japan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

More than 75% of the island is covered with thickly forested and snowcapped mountains.

Aside from the primeval allure, worth checking out of for the millennia-old cedar trees.

Iriomote-jima has dense jungle and mangrove forests and is home to a variety of exotic wildlife, like the rare yamaneko, a nocturnal and rarely seen wildcat. The island’s rugged trail is one of the most difficult in the whole prefecture; travellers need permission from the police to tackle it.

Ishigaki-jima, for those who love snorkelling and diving.

Swim with schools of manta rays or just sunbathe in one of the island’s collection of beaches. The nightlife is great too.

Miyako-jima, unlike most of the islands in the Okinawa group, is flat so it’s the perfect place to cultivate sugarcane, a main source of livelihood. It’s also where the Strongman All-Japan Triathlon, which attracts more than 1,500 athletes every April is held. It has some of the best beaches and dive spots in the islands and the locals are famous for their hospitality and love of drink

poet Mitsuo Aida are available as fitting mementos of the trip.

Naha’s International Street An hour’s bus ride from the resort took us to Naha Bus Terminal and Kokusai-dori or International Street. The 1.6-kilometre stretch is lined with souvenir shops, boutiques, department stores, restaurants, cafes, and hotels. You’ll need your game face on to shop for keepsakes, food, and other finds in this interesting street.

Visitors should not miss Heiwa-dori, a long covered shopping arcade running perpendicular to Kokusai-dori. You can buy the freshest food here and even have your just-purchased fish, meat or vegetables cooked on the spot in one of the small eateries for a small fee. It is definitely a place to experience the food culture and

Taketomi-jima, with its old red-tiled roofed houses with coral walls and shisa statues, is a living museum of Ryukyu culture.

Locals in costume

a slice of local life.

Okinawan cuisine is distinct from that of mainland Japan, featuring strong influences from China and Southeast Asia. Pork is a mainstay of Okinawan cuisine and every part of the pig is used, from the feet to the ears and innards. Stir-frying is a common cooking method. I suggest you try goya chanpuru, the quintessential Okinawan stir-fry dish that combines bitter melon, vegetables, tofu, egg, and pork into one downright delicious mix.

After eating your fill, be sure to pick up a pair of the ubiquitous shisa or guardian lion-dogs as a keepsake for a much lower price than along the main street. Note that your pair should have one dog with its mouth open to catch good fortune while the other has it closed to keep the good fortune in.

Here Comes the Sun After days of hiding behind an overcast sky, the sun finally put in an appearance on our last two days. The beach quickly became dotted with parasols and happy sunbathers.

The more adventurous went into the water to ride Jet Skis and banana boats. At night a fireworks display lit up the inky sky and the savoury smells of beachfront barbeque wafted in the balmy breeze. It was lovely to see Okinawa’s island vibe in full swing.

Though the weather kept us from exploring all that Okinawa had to offer, the vivid ocean and white sand, the laid-back small-town feel of the place, the bustling thoroughfare of Naha and the friendliness of its people leave an indelible mark. With so much still to explore—Shuri Castle and other World Heritage Sites, the charming pottery quarter of Tsuboya, the nature trails in the mountainous north—I have a feeling it won’t be long before we end up visiting the uminchu (the sea people, as Okinawans call themselves) once again. I can’t wait for that to happen.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Ryukyuan toys; frenetic Heiwa Street; learning a new skill-grass blowing–– at a glass factory

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destinationďƒ beijing

Photography by St. Regis Beijing, 1949-The Hidden City, Susan Leong

FAST IN TRANSITION

China in the 21st century has its finger on fast-forward and nowhere is this more emphasised than in BEIJING, where old and new learn peaceably to co-exist, observes SUSAN LEONG

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THIS SPREAD, FROM LEFT: Artistic and commercial Hub 1949–The Hidden City; a detail shot of the intricate design of the Bird’s Nest, which has become iconic since last year’s games; visitors touring the stadium; visitors can actually have their photos taken with the mascots

When China called itself the Middle Kingdom thousands of years ago, it was a point of nationalistic pride. With its rapid development, especially after its ascension to the World Trade Organization, the moniker now appears almost visionary.

As the country’s economy chalked up dizzying double-digit figures (slowed only by the current economic climate), China has been making its presence felt—a presence that was stamped even further into international consciousness last year during the Olympics, and continues today, most recently by its commitment of billions of dollars to fuel the global recovery.

Let the drums roll...

For over 650 years, drums functioned as the “common people’s clock,” sounding the night hours across the tiled rooftops of a city at rest. As with many ancient practices that have outlived their usefulness, they fell silent in 1924. On 08.08.08, the world awakened to their vigorous pounding when 2,008 drummers, in perfect unison,

heralded the start of the 29th Olympiad with an opening ceremony that astounded the world. Steven Spielberg called the opening ceremony “arguably the grandest spectacle of the new millennium” while the American Film Institute selected it as one of its “Eight Moments of Significance” for 2008, lauding it for its “breathtaking poetry.”

The media raved about the Zhang Yimouorchestrated show, calling it “spellbinding” and an “interlude of fervour and magic” as China showcased 5,000 years of heritage and achievements. Over the next 16 days, the Chinese would continue their dazzling performance, and finish the Games at the top of the leader board. Their medals haul of 51 gold, 21 silver and 28 bronze put them ahead of the US for the first time.

Olympic Village visits The “Bird’s Nest” National Stadium and “Water Cube” Aquatics Centre have been seeing an unending stream of visitors since the end of the Games. For RMB50 (about S$11), a visitor can enter the stadium where

Jamaican sprinter Usain Bolt captured the imagination of millions with his speed (and arrogance) and Chinese hurdler Liu Xiang broke a billion hearts when he limped away from his qualifying heat.

For RMB200, appropriately attired “officials” and “prize presenters” will hang an Olympic medal around an “athlete,” who will go home with three photographs of himself/herself at the award “ceremony,” but without the “medal” which is reserved for the next “winner.” For the same price, a visitor can also take photographs with the air-inflated Olympic mascots, which take pride of place in the field. While pulsating music blares from the speakers, looped videos capturing the Olympic moments play on large screens at two ends of the stadium; people mill around to soak in the Olympic atmosphere, and yet more seat themselves on the ground to enjoy the festive air.

Equally eye-catching is the Water Cube whose façade was inspired by the dynamic properties of soap bubbles. An eco-friendly building, its membrane-covering is said to

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be self-cleaning, while the insulation and ventilation systems keep the temperature and humidity at comfortable levels. For RMB300, a tourist can enter the aquatics centre, browse through an exhibition that chronicles its construction, buy souvenirs, sit in the stands and almost hear the tiniest splash as the divers cut cleanly through the water’s surface. The competition pool where Michael Phelps made history is not open to the public, but visitors can peer through the glass at its dark and forlorn appearance on the way out.

Compared to the bright, welcoming and visitor-friendly Bird’s Nest, the Water Cube is staid and lifeless—except for its fascinating façade.

Tea culture and coffee clubs

this page, clockwise from top: St. Regis Beijing; the Rem Koolhaas-designed CCTV Beijing headquarters, only one of starchitect-designed buildings in Beijing; one of the restaurants in 1949 – The Hidden City

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Like the clock-drums of yore, the teahouse was an important part of old Beijing.

And like clock-drums, it soon gave way to modernisation, displaced by an emerging coffee culture and innovative dining concepts. This does not mean a rejection of the old while embracing the new. Rather, the F&B scene in Beijing is built on its ancient food culture, albeit with a twist, to entice modern palates.

Factory-chic dining and entertainment courtyard 1949-The Hidden City, for example, is housed within a 4,000-sq m neo-industrial area amidst the skyscrapers in the heart of Beijing’s Sanlitun district. Its signature restaurant, Duck De Chine, serves duck, a local favourite, but prepared in interesting new ways. The restaurant also has its own, and China’s first, Bollinger Champagne Bar. The predominantly duck-based menu at the restaurant offers dishes that combine local produce and spices with traditional Chinese and French influence, marrying the best of the old and new to create what are often heralded as the best duck dishes in Beijing. (Having sampled the cuisine, I certainly agree!)

At the other extreme are small eateries that pay scant attention to ambience. The Family Li Imperial Cuisine, for instance, is housed in a small traditional Beijing quadrangle in Hou Hai in the Xi Cheng District. Access is by foot through the narrow, dark, and often dank alleys of the hutong.

But the humble setting belies the exquisite taste of its dishes, which are said to have their origins in the royal palace. Celebrities and scholars, politicians and captains of industry

The Cultural Revolution, Redux

China’s cultural makeover starts with what’s hip and hot juxtaposed with what’s old and revered in Beijing

1. The contrast of old and new. The old standards are well worth a second, third or fourth visit: The Forbidden City, The Great Wall, and the rapidly disappearing hutongs.

But also check out the new structures: Bird’s Nest, the Water Cube, Rem Koolhaas distinctive CCTV Building, as well as others that have given Beijing cache in the international design world.

The original iconic landmark! The Great Wall of China

A mixture of the old standbys and the newfangled, Beijing is always surprising, whether you’re a first-timer, taking in all the sights, or a repeat visitor, in the city to take in a few meetings. Some of the things that we love about the city:

alike are said to have visited the restaurant to savour the celebrated Imperial Court cuisine and Beijing traditional dishes prepared by the Family Li.

East meets West Winning combinations are also apparent in the hotel industry. When it was first opened in 1997, Mandarin-speaking taxi drivers did not know where The St. Regis Beijing was—many still don’t if you say the name in English. However, they’ll get you there in no time if you tell them you want to go to the Beijing International Club, preferably in the Chinese language.

That’s the legacy of the hotel, which stands adjacent to the most popular watering hole of government officials, foreign dignitaries and international correspondents.

The St. Regis brand was borne of a desire by founder John Jacob Astor IV to create a memorable hotel stay underlined

2. Good food. Old hands have this to say about eating in Beijing: Be adventurous.

Try everything from the street food to the fancy place. Good advice. Here’s a sampling of where to go: Dadong Roast Duck: For the best roast duck in town, this is the place. It’s a bit pricey and the place is rowdy, as Chinese restaurants are, but the food is divine. The duck skin is crisp and the meat, wrapped in a

thin pancake with spring onions and a dark sauce goes well with beer or wine. 22 Dongsishitiao, Beijing (south of Nanxincang International Building); tel 010 5169 0328; open 11am-10pm Kong Yiji Jiudan: Popular with locals, this restaurant serves food from Shaoxing and is named after a failed scholar and tavern crawler from a classic short story.

Desheng Men Nei Dajie (next to the Teahouse of Fu on the northwest bank of Hou Hai); tel 010 6618 4917; open 9:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm 3. The creative enclaves.

Two to check out: The Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hu Tong. The alley has small shops that sell everything from clothing from Tibet to cool T-shirts.

Also worth going: 1949-The Hidden City. This creative and dining enclave is 6,000

by an unrivalled dimension of luxury, sophistica-tion, and bespoke service. Just as the first St. Regis in 1904 was the tallest, most advanced hotel of its time, and hosted the most talked-about events and society balls, subsequent St. Regis hotels are created with the same high standards of excellence envisioned by its founder. The St. Regis Beijing, for example, exemplifies refinement, elegance and impeccable service.

Superbly situated in the heart of Beijing’s business, entertainment, shopping and diplomatic districts, it is but minutes away from Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and the Silk Market.

One of the finest expressions of modern luxury, the hotel’s recent US$30-million renovation may have given it a facelift, but certainly has not changed its centuryold heart for offering the finest things in life, delivered of course by the renowned signature St. Regis Butlers. In fact, much like

square metres of neo-industrial chic nestled in Beijing’s party district. There are restaurants, bars, gardens, an art gallery.

1949-The Hidden City is at Gong Ti Bei Lu, Chao Yung District, Beijing (Behind Pacific Century Place); tel 86 10 6501 1949 Beijing Bound Sensible advice from Beijing regulars for your next visit by: • Explore by bike. If you’re going to be in the city for awhile, buy a bike and use it as much as possible.

• Use a Chinese laundry • Eat real Chinese food • Learn to haggle aggressively – this is a must, as Chinese vendors are masters of the art.

You’ll have to learn the game to get the best deals • Wander along the hidden corners; don’t just go to the touristy places • Learn tai-chi

Beijing, the St. Regis Beijing wears its age well and holds firm to its core beliefs.

What next?

Last year’s Olympic Games had signalled China’s readiness to take its place on the world stage—its stunning opening ceremony was testimony to that, its athletic prowess further supported the bid, and the World Expo to be held in Shanghai next year will add another feather to its cap. With two of the world’s largest events in 2010 happening there, don’t be surprised if China sent in a bid to covet the third, the FIFA World Cup, in the near future.

So is there a best time to visit Beijing?

I’d say now—because Beijing is a city in transition, and you can experience the past, live the present, and have a glimpse of the future. Go on, see it for yourself, and perhaps contribute a line or two to China’s modern history.

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destinationestonia

Photography by Sharmila Melissa Yogalingam

ESTONIA’S

gems

hidden

It’s all about Old-World charm, says SHARMILA MELISSA YOGALINGAM who spent a few days discovering the country once considered Europe’s best-kept secret

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visitor to Tallinn should have afternoon tea in, simply to experience the city’s unique café culture. Try these Estonian dishes while you are there: leib, which is black bread, kringel, German-style sweet bread with raisins and nuts, kotlet (burger patties), kartulid (potatoes) and verivorst (Estonian blood sausages). One of the best places to sample Estonian fare is at Vanaema Juures (Grandma’s Place), one of Tallinn’s most stylish eateries.

Lahemaa

OPPOSITE, THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE: Tallinn, Estonia’s capital, has one of the best preserved medieval towns in the world. Olaviste church, which used to be the highest building in the world until the 19th century and red roofs make for a fairy tale-like ambience, as do these castle towers (above); locals in costume in the old town (above right, right)

Estonia is situated just below Finland in the Baltic Sea and being a very small country, can easily be explored in a few days. With its enchanting architecture and ruins, breezy cafes, sandy beaches, forests and parks, Estonia offers up a myriad of activities—from people-watching in one of its cafes for those weary of walking around, to day hikes and tours for those who haven’t gotten their fill of history and architecture.

It’s always a good idea to explore many parts of a country to get a more complete impression. Since Estonia was a small country, we decided to go around several cities, starting with the capital.

Tallinn Travellers usually enter the country via Tallinn, the capital and cultural centre of the country. Like all countries these days, the city has its modern side and its quaint cobblestone streets and 13th century architecture. It’s the old areas that will beguile your soul.

Unlike other European capitals, Tallinn is a quiet town where the traveller is allowed time to sojourn and rest. Tallin is an old city dating back to the Middle Ages and most of its stunning architecture hail back to that era.

The churches are simply breathtaking and all are worth a visit. One such church you should go to is the Dominican St. Catherine’s

Monastery. This Gothic monument was founded in 1246, and is the oldest preserved building in Tallinn. The monastery, part of the cloisters and courtyards, memory and prayer chapel, and the dormitorium chapter house are still intact. Don’t forget to enjoy the collection of medieval stone carvings in the museum, as well as the monastery’s spectacular gardens.

Next, pack a picnic lunch and head up to Toompea Hill for a stunning view of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one the best preserved medieval town centres in Europe. While there, visit the Dome Church and the ornate tombs and sarcophagi located within the vicinity. This hill makes a lovely place to take snapshots of Tallinn’s town centre, and to relax on the greens.

Shopping in the city centre is an interesting experience, as you find Estonian designers being sold in chic stores right next to stores where the old artisanal traditional wares such as hand-blown glass, handwoven baskets and pottery are sold. Make sure you purchase some beautiful glass vases and bowls that are usually blown and assembled right before your very eyes!

While you are in the city centre, peruse the many art galleries with their vibrant and creative artworks that will give you a sense of the Estonian heritage. Also in the city centre are the numerous art deco cafes that any

Lahemaa is accessible from Tallinn by car or bus. The towns of Lahemaa, Korvemaa, and Rakvere are situated in the northern part of Estonia, and driving time between these destinations only takes a couple of hours.

In Lahemaa, you’ll find Estonia’s oldest and largest national park, Lahemaa National Park. It has the distinction of being the first national park in the former Soviet Union. This park also has sandy beaches, huge boulders, and mossy pine forests to explore. The park is so big that you can go walk several nature trails, including a bog trail, a beaver trail, one that goes through old forest, and another that includes Altja Fisherman’s Village, situated in the park, which gives you an insight into the way of life of the coastal people of yore.

Also in Lahemaa, you’ll find Palmse Manor, the first manor ensemble to be restored in full. Once owned by the aristocratic von Pahlen family, the manor house has period furniture and fittings that go back to the 1700s. Now open to the public, Palmse Manor consists of a museum, a distillery and a hotel on the grounds.

Korvemaa For those who have a romanticised notion of bogs and moors from Charles Dickens and Jane Austen, you won’t find a more mysterious bog than the Kakerdaja bog, one of the biggest bogs (about 100 hectares) in Korvemaa. This bog is on two levels with a lake in the middle. This area is quite famous with visitors going on bog walks.

There are wooden planks that traverse the woods and it’s quite an experience to walk through the forest and listen to the stillness and admire the untouched beauty of the wilderness. If it’s the right season, you may even get to pick cranberries and

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Parnu On the southwest of Estonia lies Parnu, Estonia’s premier resort town. This beach town draws locals and tourists alike, due to its relaxing small town ambience. Parnu is easily accessible by air, boat, bus, car, and train, thereby giving the traveller loads of choice in their mode of travel.

Parnu has a golden sandy beach as it star attraction, with bars, cafes, restaurants all lined up along its stretch. The beachfront action gives the town a very relaxed vibe as travellers mingle with locals for dinner and drinks.

After a night of carousing, relax at a spa. Parnu is also known for its spas and the wonderfully stimulating mud treatments.

From old-school Russian-style sanatoriums to more modern setups, almost every spa in Parnu offers up various concoctions of mud treatments—a must-try for any traveller. Highly recommended: Pärnu Mudaravila, where you should get a mud bath and wallow to your heart’s content in rejuvenating mud.

Aside from the beach and spas, Parnu is not without history and its ruins are a sight to behold indeed. Its Town Hall is a yellow and white neoclassical building that dates back to the 1700s, while just off the main street in Ruutli Tanav is the Red Tower, which is the city’s oldest building from the 15th century.

Another view of the old town with the two major churches in the background––Dome church on the left, Olaviste on the right

blueberries along the trail. There are also hiking and ski trails as well as a watchtower in Valgehobusemagi Hill. For the culture buffs the museum of Estonian writer A. H. Tamm­saare gives visitors a glimpse of farm life in the past, hosts theatrical performances in the summer, and is a starting point for nature hikes in Kõrve­maa. Jäneda Manor also has a musical observatory of the composer Urmas Sisask.

Rakvere Midway between Tallinn and the town of Narva is Rakvere. Mainly known for Tarvanpää Castle, a stone fortress which dates back to 1226 has seen different masters since then—from the Danes to the German,

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Tartu Russian, Swedish, and Polish conquerors.

Although in ruins since the early 1600s, the castle hosts open-air concerts, festivals, and theatre performances. A short walk from the castle is a massive bull statue, which was commissioned by the town fathers to be built in commemoration of the town’s 700th anniversary of being granted Lubeck city rights. The bull, measuring some seven metres long and four metres high, is noteworthy but what impressed me more was the coastal limestone cliff that runs for about 20 kilometres between the cities of Saka and Toila. The cliff is 56 metres and presents awe-inspiring views of the Gulf of Finland. Nearby Valaste has the highest waterfall in Estonia. You can stand on the specially erected platform and enjoy the view of this astonishing water feature, amongst the layers of rock.

Tartu is Estonia’s university town, and is the spiritual and intellectual centre of the country. Located in the south of Estonia, you can easily go by bus or drive to this city, which offers as many magnificent ruins, churches, cafes, and art galleries as Tallin does. However, one thing that Tartu has that no other city has, and is definitely worth visiting, is the Estonian National Museum. This building serves as a major repository of Estonian history and heritage. Don’t mis s t he ha nd icra ft s a nd t he folk costumes displays.

Estonia is a country with rich history and untouched scenery, and because of its size, it’s an ideal destination because travellers can easily drive through the entire country, and partake in the uniqueness of each region, much live savouring the hidden nuances of a precious gem.

Clockwise FROM LEFT: At Olde Hansa restaurant you can get medieval delicacies like wild boar or simply just enjoy the alfresco ambience; part of the old-town wall; part of Tallinn’s Town Hall Square; girls in medieval dress

THE DETAILS

Need to know for a great vacation WHEN TO GO The best time would be May-September when temperatures are relatively mild. Despite its geographical location, Estonia’s climate is relatively mild because it hugs the Baltic Sea. Coldest months are January-February.

However, even in summer, you need to bring a coat or sweater for the evenings, which can turn cool.

Considered one of

the best preserved medieval towns in northern Europe, Tallinn needs at least two days to be explored properly. Get an overview of the city by taking a horse-drawn carriage around the cobbled streets of Old Town and then revisit the places on foot afterwards. Start on Pikk Street and go past the 15th century Guild House and its Guildhall, which houses the Estonian History Museum. Then continue to Olaeviste Church, whose steeple was once the

world’s tallest. Then go to Fat Margaret at the north end of Pikk Street, the widest defense tower in the city walls. Its mate is Tall Hermann, the highest defense tower, which is on Cathedral Hill on the opposite end of the city.

WHAT TO DO 1. Sample the local food at Vanaema Juures (Grandma’s Place), one of Tallinn’s most stylish eateries. The restaurant has existed since the 1930s.

The vibe is slightly formal but it’s still a good place to get the traditional dishes, like pig’s trotters or elk. The place has an extensive menu with vegetarian options.

Reservations might be a good for Friday and Saturday nights.

Rataskaevu tänav 10/12, Lower Town; tel 626 9080 2. Get a mud bath or treatment in Parnu. Try Pärnu Mudaravila, which is housed in a grand neoclassical structure. Bathers can choose

from a wide range of mud— rom the local to more esoteric ones. The spa encourages you to make a reservation and consult a physician before plunging in.

3. Try these restaurants: Musta Täku Tall in Järvamaa, serves excellent meals in the ambience of a country pub and the seafood restaurant Suur­vanker in Jäneda, which is built in a huge horse carriage.

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sojournďƒ cambodia photography by Tracy Lee Elrick AND NICKY SERING

Contrast and change Two words that accurately describe Cambodia, whose violent recent history has given birth to a country of survivors determined to overcome their past and reclaim their ancient heritage, says KATHY KHOO

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The charming town of Siem Reap has been awakened by its proximity to the temples.

The town is growing; new hotels and other infrastructure are being built to cater to the waves of tourists. This is the base from which to plan your temple tours. It still has quaint old French shop houses dotted around but the new guesthouses, resorts, and luxury hotels are arriving fast, bringing along offerings of spas, bars, and restaurants. Garish signboards advertising old world and long-forgotten beauty products have mushroomed around King Sihanouk’s Villa grounds.

You can still get a glimpse of the old Siem Reap in the traditional market where you can buy souvenirs, among other things.

Women still tend charcoal fires by the road as children crowd around touting bamboo flutes and old men lounge in rundown cafes but this is juxtaposed with scenes of foreigners enjoying Angkor beer and karaoke warblers in seedy joints, all under the shadow of the magnificent temples.

therefore not inconceivable that in a nation whose people endured the horrors of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, that Cambodia is finally throwing off the shackles of its tragic past, to embrace its rich heritage.

Deep in the jungle is a collection of architectural wonders which house intricate carvings and elaborate reliefs, numerous statues, and vast pools. The temples are considered one of the most important archaelogical finds of ancient structures in Asia. The Angkor complex is not only a symbol of the identity of the Khmer people but also a legacy of the ancient power of the Khmer race.

“Angkor” means city in a Khmer variant of Sanskrit. It refers mainly to the thriving Khmer Empire around AD 801-1500.

It endured for nearly 600 years as the cultural and political centre of the empire and was one of Southeast Asia’s most important civilizations.

The Angkor temples were built for worship of both King and God as the Khmer kings were considered earthly portrayals of the gods. The temples themselves are modelled after mythical Mount Meru (home of the gods) and feature towers and terraces that represent various elements of the Meru legend. Tales from Hindu mythology are also depicted in wall carvings and decorations. Hinduism was at the time the main religion of the ancient Khmers before they steered toward Buddhism around the 13th century.

The whole Angkor area is very vast and time will dictate the number of sites visited. Of the many dramatic temples, each with its unique characteristics, the three unmissables can be narrowed down to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Bayon, and Ta Phrom.

Wats Beyond

Angkor Wat

The Khmer Empire’s ancient capital was built on the expansive plain north of Ton Le Sap (Great River) which runs southward through the centre of the country to join the mighty Mekong River in Phnom Penh, the country’s capital. The two rivers then flow together to the sea for about six months of the year. For the other half of the year, when the rains fall, the rising waters cause the Ton Le Sap to reverse its direction of flow.

This strange phenomenon is just one of many contradictions of Cambodia. It is

The best times to visit Angkor Wat is at dawn or near dusk as the light adds a hue of mystery to the beautiful symmetry of the structure. The interplay of shadow and light at angles, on the stone carvings lining the dark and narrow hallways, lends a shimmering glowing effect.

The majestic five towers stand sentry over the most exquisite reliefs inside. Some depict famous Indian epics like the Mahabharata and the Ramayana and others recount battles during the Angkor period.

Cambodia is not as frequently visited than its neighbours Thailand and Vietnam but it is fast establishing itself as alluring as its most famous monument— Angkor Wat. It is a country of breathtaking beauty and surprising for its size, encompasses a diverse range of terrain. It is of course more than the sum of its famous temples, which is the main draw for tourists. Often, visitors just fly directly into Siem Reap where the temple complexes are located and fly out again. To restrict oneself to the popular tourist circuit would be to miss out on all the other delights this country has to offer: from unspoilt beaches and stunning forests to fascinating river towns and sleepy villages.

Town Life

TOP: “Angkor” means city in Khmer and “Wat” means temple. So Angkor Wat, one of the––if not the––largest temple systems of the world, means “City of the Temples.” BOTTOM: A couple shares a meal in of the temple courtyards

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currency. Foreign exchange counters are available in hotels, restaurants and banks. In remote areas, locals only deal in riel and small amounts of dollars. There are credit-card compatible ATMs that dispense US dollars in most major cities.

Credit cards are also readily accepted in the more top-end hotels, shops, and restaurants but be prepared to pay a surcharge.

Best time to visit The wet season is May-October, when the monsoons come. April is the hottest month. The best time to visit is December and January Cyclos wait for passengers

DATELINE CAMBODIA

What you need to know before you pack that suitcase How to get there Cambodia has two international gateways. Most visitors enter by air through the airports in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There are air links with most regional capitals and Bangkok offers the most connections. Budget and regional airlines have also increased traffic flow to the country.

There are also land crossings between Cambodia’s neighbours, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand.

These borders are mainly in off-the-beaten-track places and used mostly for trade rather than tourists. However, it is possible to obtain visas at these crossings but be aware that sometimes, extra

fees may be incurred especially if you don’t have any local currency and need to rely on foreign-exchange rates. It is best to check with the Immigration Department before attempting any entry by land.

Getting around The domestic airline Siem Reap Airways flies between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh and is the most popular with tourists. There are also tourist buses and shared mini-buses and taxis. These are often overcrowded although cheaper. Be aware that there are no local commercial bus networks and the trains are only for freight. For short trips, there are cyclos (pedicabs) and motos (motorcycle taxis).

The temple is a representation of Hindu cosmology. The universe has a central continent surrounded by six rings of land and seven concentric oceans. At the centre is Mount Meru with its five peaks.

Eight divinities stand guard to protect the cardinal points and the causeway spans a 190-metre moat linking the world of god and man.

The climb to the highest level is

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Visas and currency matters Most visitors need a onemonth tourist visa which is available upon arrival at both international airports in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and at land border crossings. Tourist visas cost US$20 and business visas US$25. You must have one passport-size photo for application. It is also possible to arrange a visa ahead of travel from a Cambodian embassy or consulate abroad. This lessens potential problems, like overcharging, especially at land border crossings.

Cash—especially the US dollar—is king in Cambodia.

Keep small denominations of dollars and change small amounts to riel, the local

when it is dry, humidity is low, and the weather is cool. This is however also the peak season for visitors.

What to eat Khmer cuisine has Thai and Laotian influences but distinct local dishes.

Baguettes and pates are eaten as a legacy to its French colonial past. Although not as spicy as Thai or Vietnamese food, there are curries (kari).

Rice is the staple with both aromatic and the sticky glutinous variety being eaten.

Noodles are also popular.

At most meals, soup or samlor is common. Try the freshwater fish caught from the local rivers.

What to buy Visit the Artisans d’Angkor for traditional fine arts and crafts. Not only do they do beautiful work with silk, lacquer,

tough but worth the effort to enjoy the spectacular view. Angkor Wat faces west whilst the other temples face east.

It covers an area of almost 500 acres, which makes it the largest religious temple ever built and truly one of the most inspired.

Angkor Thom and Bayon Angkor Thom was an ancient fortified

stone and metals, they are also very much part of community sustainability and development. The company was established to provide local artisans jobs and onsite training. The shop not only helps young people get jobs, it also encourages new generations to uphold their heritage by continuing their handicraft traditions. www. artisansdangkor.com Be-(a)ware Landmines are still an issue in Cambodia.

When visiting ancient sites and trekking around the countryside, stick to wellsigned and designated paths. Parts of the country are still being cleared of landmines. Soldiers who planted the landmines did not record locations.

Prasat Preah Vihear is a temple complex that sits on the border of Thailand and Cambodia and has been a point of political posturing and dispute between these countries since the 19th Century. As recent as 2008, tensions flared again and both sides had a standoff at the contentious location.

Nevertheless, the temple is open to visitors both from the Thai and Cambodian side. Note that it is easier to access the temple from the Thai-side of the border.

For day trips, no visa is required if you happen to cross the border when visiting the temple.

city with a 100-metre moat that extends 12 kilometres and includes the Bayon temple complex. It has none of the imposing towers and even lines of Angkor Wat but it is just as fascinating.

The four large carved heads with stoneetched faces are haunting and impressive.

Dozens of other faces look out in every direction. The faces are said to resemble Jayavarman VII as a manifestation of

Bodhisattva, the ruler who rebuilt this city and its temples in the 12th century. These mysterious faces have enigmatic smiles and contemplative looks, some with eyes closed, others with eyes open which seem to follow your every step as you explore the labyrinth of rooms and corridors, not quite escaping the insistent stares.

Incense wafts in the air, as nuns play protector and caretaker to the several shrines dotted around the area. Pilgrims often pay their respects and offer donations. At dusk, the low light casts odd shadows through framed doorways on the statues, lending another dimension to the perspective of the complex.

Ta Phrom Entering the temple of Ta Phrom is like an explorer stumbling onto the remnants of a lost city. It is overgrown with jungle and looks like a place time forgot. Here the encroaching vegetation has not been beaten back and nature has reclaimed the monuments. This was one of the settings of Angelina Jolie’s movie Tomb Raider.

Ta Phrom’s trees dominate the structure.

These towering giants have overtaken the temple to such an extent that the structure is practically being dismantled stone by stone in places where the giant roots have taken hold. The trees grow on top of, around, and literally through the temple, causing cracks.

Their large tentacles of roots strangle the stone and drape over the walls. Green and brown moss and lichen cover most surfaces, adding to the ruined state. There are some signs of restoration and maintenance with barriers and support structures but fallen heaps of jumbled stone are sure evidence of nature’s quiet persistence.

Despite this attack, the main part of Ta Phrom still stands. It is an enormous complex of rooms, winding corridors, and dim passageways. Visitors will have to clamber over collapsed stone hiding halfshut doors, strewn with broken Buddha statues and other carved pieces. As the dense foliage and fallen archways cover paths, the intimacy of the entire closed-in area is a stark contrast to the grandeur of the other temples. There’s an eerie stillness to the place, as one meanders through the twisted trees, and a light breeze causes fallen leaves to stir. Adding to the mood are local

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: Bas relief of a temple tower. Stonework in Agkor Thom is said to depict Jayavarman VII, said to be a manifestation of Bodhisattva; modern art pieces; a cafe

musicians often found playing traditional instruments in the area.

Capital Gains The capital, Phnom Penh is often overlooked after the attraction of Siem Reap but a short plane ride takes visitors to a city that is part modern metropolis, part old-world charm.

Located on the banks of the mighty Mekong, this Asian city at the crossroads teems with life and commerce.

For a slice of chaos and local colour, visit the Russian market where all manner of goods are sold and the Central market where trade continues to ebb and flow daily under the 1930s Art Deco roof. A popular tourist attraction is the Royal Palace, the abode of kings since 1866. The Silver Pagoda within the palace complex is a royal temple that houses national treasures. Next to the palace is the National Museum where an extensive collection of Buddhist and Hindu artefacts is on display.

However, a main draw for visitors to the capital is actually high on the atrocity scale. A short drive outside the capital is Tuol Sleng, a former Khmer Rouge interrogation camp.

Should you choose to go, be warned that the exhibits and photos can be haunting and disturbing. Most of the inmates here were tortured to death and buried 17 km south of Phnom Penh in Choeung Ek: the infamous Killing Fields. About 17,000 of the country’s population are buried in mass graves in this former orchard and Chinese graveyard. A

Buddhist stupa stands as a memorial. It has glass sides and 5,000 human skulls are piled inside—a stark reminder of the country’s horrific past.

Farther Afield Temples and violence aside, the country has a host of fascinating places to experience. On the way to seeing the river towns around the Mekong, stop off at Kratie to visit with the rare river dolphins and floating villages on the Tonlé Sap lake. A short drive away takes you to the bird sanctuary at Prek Toal. In Battambang, don’t forget to try the norry, an electric motor-powered bamboo train.

In Kompong Phluk, the flooded forest and bamboo skyscrapers are an eye-opener. If mountains and trees are your thing, head to the many national parks with their hectares of pine forests and stunning waterfalls. Visit with the hill tribes and go for elephant treks in search of endangered species like tigers and sun bears or go for oxcart rides and explore the ruins of old mansions. For the sun and sea set, the attraction of the enchanting seaside towns is undeniable with its empty beaches, memorable sunsets, and fresh seafood.

Cambodia is a land of survivors. On the precipice of great change, it retains its ability to enchant and engage. Half its population of 11 million are under the age of 15. Energised as it is by its young people, the country is reinventing itself and well on its way to renewal.

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sojourncebu photography by Erwin T. Lim, sumilon bluewater resort

MERCURIAL

CEBU

A grand dowager of a city, Cebu is a delight, with its penchant for reinvention that doesn’t render the past meaningless, says local JUDE BACALSO, who takes us around the neighbourhood

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: A local beauty queen holds a replica of the Sto. Niño during the Sinulog Festival; a sea of umbrellas in front of the Basilica del Sto. Niño; a street participant in colourful costume

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Although not everyone agreed with the strategy, Cebu weathered a tourism downward spiral a few years ago with a snub.

In a cleverly staged act of disassociation, all 1,725 square miles of it was mentioned in international media only as “an island in the Pacific”—which it is, of course. But knowing that is knowing only one fact of the Philippines’ 7,107 islands, give or take a few. Depending on the tide.

Of its sisters that make up the Philippine archipelago, this one has always been in the thick of the action. Quite literally so.

Located almost centrally in the group of islands that make up the Visayas, it is home to the country’s busiest seaport and second busiest airport. Its famously robust economy, fuelled by revenues from tourism, information technology, and exports of world-class furniture and costume jewellery, has even birthed a new word: Ceboom!

Prayer dancing In my lifetime, it has changed stripes so often it feels like a new animal with every permutation. Even the subtlest of changes—a favourite watering hole closing down, spicy lechon (roasted pig) is in, island-hopping goes luxe and is back in vogue—turns the city into another creature. And yet it’s the same city from when I was in khaki shorts, learning to ride the jeepney.

The Cebuano marches bravely on, but with one foot in his storied past; two steps forward, one step back—like the choreography of the street-dancing revelry that has become known as the mother of all festivals in the Philippines: the Sinulog. It is said to mimic the movement of the tides (sulog), and even if you missed it performed en masse by costumed delegations in lavishly decorated floats every third Sunday of January, for a few pesos a gaggle of matrons in traditional garb will gladly do it for you in front of the Magellan’s Cross, a symbol which appears in Cebu’s seal, and is the site of explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s symbolic claiming of the island for Spain in 1521.

“Name, ma’am?” the gnarled lady asks, head cocked expectantly to one side after pocketing the money. I give the name of an ex-boyfriend who might have gotten his girlfriend pregnant, the latter information I keep to myself, of course. The woman proceeds to light a candle (two if you have been extra generous), closes her eyes and in a rapture performs the dance. She is

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the Basilica, and—voila!—leave with a holy conduit for their prayers.

Living past

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT: Snorkelling in Sumilon Bluewater Resort, one of the many resorts in Cebu; relaxing in a payag-payag (beach hut); veranda at Sumilon; the famous Cebu lechon (suckling pig)

praying for my ex-boyfriend’s soul, lifting the fruit of his indiscretions to the Señor Santo Niño, the child Jesus, an all-forgiving if not endearingly mischievous version of the Catholic Saviour and Cebu’s patron saint, the Sinulog’s raison d’etre.

Her chant, which rings by the thousands during the festival, is a frenetic offering: “Pit Señor! Kang [insert name here] kini!” Hail Señor! This is for [insert name here]!” And no, you don’t have to tell her exactly what it is you are praying for. I doubt if she, or in fact the baby Jesus, would have approved of my heart’s desires anyway.

The cross is at the south gate of the Basilica del Sto. Niño, a 16th century structure built on the spot where Magellan’s gift to Cebu’s Hara Amihan (baptised as Queen Juana)—a carved image of the child-God regarded as the oldest Catholic relic in the country—was found unscathed in a burnt hut, and where it remains in a glassenclosed reliquary to this day. The Basilica is ringed with stalls selling replicas of the Sto. Niño in inexpensive wood garbed in imitation velvet and adorned with plastic pearls and flimsy tin. It’s a brisk business, and except for an extra bead here and a gold trim there, the statues of the Sto. Niño are identical, the prices uniform across the entire stretch, and they come in a choice of small, medium, or grotto-worthy large.

After the purchase, devotees line up with their statues to have them blessed inside

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It would be a shame not to explore all things first and oldest in the country while you are in this part of the city. But be forewarned, a typical Cebuano (including hotel concierges and taxi drivers, alas) does not respond well to directions given in numbers and street names; in Cebu, one always gives directions in reference to a landmark.

The destinations mentioned here are the landmarks themselves so there should be little problem in locating them.

A listing of photogenic firsts is concentrated in what is generally referred to as the downtown area, adjacent to the Aduana (wharf), for two simple reasons: the development of Cebu demonstrates what is true of civilisations in general, it always begins next to the water. Secondly, this was already a bustling trading port long before the Spanish came. The Aduana was the accidental port of entry for the Spanish and the vestiges of this first contact remain.

Close to the wharf, the oldest and smallest triangular fort in the Philippines still stands: Fuerza de San Pedro, right next to a refurbished old customs office that is the Philippine President’s residence in the South.

There is also Colon, the country’s oldest street, which traces its origins to a town plan in 1565, and was once the purveyor of everything chic. But a walk down the street today, passing an Art Deco building façade, University of the Visayas, several department stores, mom-and-pop fastfood outlets, is best accomplished unadorned, and with a readiness to surrender personal space.

Casa Gorordo lies a few meters off one end of Colon Street and transports you to 19th century Cebu. It is a more compact, less-riveting version of Penang’s famed Blue Mansion and lacks, in my opinion, an interactive walking tour offered by the Malaysian tour site. But the details of the preserved home of Cebu’s first Filipino bishop—original handmade bedcovers, hardwood floors, and a toilet that looks like it is, eerily enough, still in use—are nonetheless fascinating in their defiance of time.

Time, though, is not the biggest ravager of Cebu’s artifacts, predictably plentiful in an old town. Antique furniture plundered

from old homes by uneducated communities and towns whose archaeological finds are marred by years of treasure hunters in search of the infamous Yamashita treasure, rumoured to be buried in these parts, are a bigger concern. A simple solution is proving to be an interesting one. Opened to the public two months ago, the Museo Sugbo is fast becoming a must-see not only for the treasures it holds (among them pre-Hispanic gold jewelry unearthed from a southern town, now on loan to the provincial government, which oversees the museum; and a unique boat-coffin which beckons with its sheer size), but also for the fascinatingly macabre history of this receptacle: Until a few years ago, this was the provincial city jail, built in 1871 to be main venue for incarceration in the Visayas region. And until several months ago, it was also the site of the Department of Education. In this present incarnation, the stone walls now keep safe a tangible past that a rush to the future seems always to trample underfoot.

Future perfect The future, after all, lies sprawled temptingly in the form of large upscale mall complexes in tracts of land that have also undergone transformation: the Ayala mall, with its airy, al fresco expansion of familiar international signages, stands on what once was a 18-hole golf course in the heart of the new business district. Competing in heft and offerings is the just-expanded SM City mall, from the same chain that built what is touted as the largest mall in Asia, built in the Reclamation Area of Cebu, a stone’s throw from the international port: the land here was, as the name suggests, once ocean.

But the shopping does not stop at the malls; for such a small island, there are now almost a dozen malls and department stores and “lifestyle complexes” of varying sizes and persuasions, serving not only the locals but the thousands of transients that come to the island from neighbouring islands and nations. The more interesting buys are still below the radar, and we have Brangelina to blame for leaking at least a part of the secret Cebu stash to the world.

Kenneth Cobonpue’s work is a Hollywood favourite, making it into the Ocean’s 13 set, design-driven W hotels, Nobu restaurants, and Brad Pitt’s bedroom. The factory is easy to overlook, right along busy General Maxilom Avenue (which the locals still

ALL HAIL THE QUEEN

Vital notes on getting around Cebu, the PHILIPPINES’ Queen City of the South How to get there Most international tourists travel to Cebu after taking a connecting flight either from Manila or Davao City in the south. All local airlines have routes to Cebu so it’s easy to get a flight to the city. Also, some international airlines have direct routes into the city.

Best time to visit While there’s always something happening in the city year-round, an interesting time to visit would be around the third Sunday of January for the Sinulog, when the whole city drops everything and parties. The summer

months, March-May, are also a good time to explore the city and outlying areas.

Cebu has a lot of pristine beaches and diving spots for those inclined.

What to do 1. Go around the city.

Some must-not-miss places: Magellan’s Cross Magallanes St., across Cebu City Hall. Just ask any local for directions Fuerza de San Pedro, across Plaza Independencia and fronting Pier Uno; entry fee, P10 Casa Gorordo, 35 Lopez Jaena St.; entry fee P70 Museo Sugbo, M.J. Cuenco Avenue

call Mango Avenue), hidden in plain sight as Interior Crafts of the Islands. Although an appointment to view the showroom is necessary, the effort is justly rewarded for the true design fan. Here’s an insider tip that might come in handy: although there is no “on sale” area, a substantial discount may be available for showroom items due for refurbishing.

Another coveted brand is outdoor furniture manufacturer Dedon, innovators of the durable, synthetic weave, all done by hand by highly trained local artisans. The brand has since closed all its other manufacturing centres in Asia because customers began specifying their preference for the pieces made in Cebu, with word leaking out that they were superior in quality. Unlike Cobonpue’s, there is an area for items at a discount. Overruns and items with the slightest mis-weave end up in a stockroom

2. Sample the local delicacies.

Cebu is known for its lechon (roast pig), chicharon (pork crackling), danggit (dried fish, which is then fried to a crisp and eaten with fried rice), otap (crisp sugared biscuits), ripe mangoes— dried or fresh (you haven’t tasted mangoes until you’ve tasted Cebu mangoes), fresh seafood.

3. Souvenir-shopping.

Go to Briones Street near the old fort for cheap and chic accessories shopping, and Kenneth Cobunpue’s showroom for world-class furniture pieces: Interior

Crafts of the Islands, 3-A General Maxilom Avenue, Cebu City, Cebu 6000, Philippines; tel (63) 32 233 3056 / 32 233 4045; www.cobonpue.com 4. Relax.

Have a spa treatment at CHI The Spa at Shangri-La Resort and Spa (www.shangrila. com), or go diving/ sorkelling at the many dive sites and resorts around the city, like Plantation Bay Resort or Sumilon Bluewater (www.bluewater.com. ph), around three hours away from Cebu City.

The drive to Sumilon

above the employees’ canteen at generously marked-down prices, sometimes as much as 70% off the published rate.

In an island that loves pushing the envelope, even the where-to-stay section is receiving a stunning makeover: old favourites like sprawling Shangri-La Resort and Spa and Filipino-run, no-tip-policy Plantation Bay Resort are facing exciting competition from smaller, boutique properties that are thinking big by being small.

Newish Abaca resort on adjacent Mactan island, with six well-appointed suites, three private villas, and a celebrated restaurant run by Chef Jason Hyatt and his wife Anna, has landed in Conde Nast Traveler’s annual Hot 13 list.

Another whispered favourite is a private island getaway with its ever-changing sandbar, limestone cliffs for trekking, lagoon, and teeming marine sanctuary for incomparable

island in particular is very interesting. You’ll pass through old towns with Spanish colonial architecture, with gracious and friendly locals willing to show you other local sites.

5. Have a fabulous dinner in town.

Abaca is arguably the best restaurant in town. Tuck into one of their delightful gourmet dinners. So popular is the restaurant that the owners expanded the property into a boutique hotel/resort last year. Check www. abacaresort.com for more information

diving, just three hours south of the city.

The ride to 12-suite Sumilon Bluewater takes you through some of the southern Cebu’s famous eats: Carcar’s chicharon (pork crackling), fresh from boiling cauldrons and crispy lechon (whole roasted pig), famously referred to in a recent Time article as the Best Pig, (oil-streaked) hands down. And a dessert stop for Argao’s torta, small dense cakes made from flour, tuba (coconut wine fermented in earthen jars), and a lot of egg yolks. Another interesting story: In building the second oldest church on the island, the albumin (whites) from thousands of eggs was used as binder for a mix of crushed corals and limestone. What to do with the leftover egg yolks? You guessed right.

Although not everyone agrees with the strategy (hammer out an itinerary of your own, by all means), when in Cebu, I say try all of the above.

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lifestyle family resorts

Text by Susan Leong and TeÀ Villamor | Photography by Bel-Air Resort & Spa, CTC Holidays, www.Hyatt.com, Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort and Spa, Swissôtel, www.citypass.com

CHILDREN’S EDITION Going somewhere with the kids entails a level of logistical knowhow superior to the military. The first rule: Look for places that will gladly help you plan the fun and then sit back and relax

Tropical vacation or winter break? Long haul or short haul? Time of travel? Which airline to book with? What activities to include? Planning a family holiday can be a headache, and parents will tell you that its severity (of the headache) grows with the number of voices in the house! Parents with children below 12 years may have it easier—they get to make all the decisions—but the price they pay is a lack of personal freedom as they remain the primary caregivers throughout the holiday.

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According to tour agency CTC Holidays, “Safety and security, including food hygiene and cleanliness of the venue and location, rank high for families travelling with children,” says Alicia Seah, Senior Vice President–Marketing & Public Relations.

“The weather, distance and availability of attractions and activities for the kids are also major considerations.”

In Asia, Hong Kong is popular for its Disneyland and Ocean Park; Bintan, Indonesia for its all-in-one Club Med concept,

and Korea and Japan for their theme parks and winter wonderland appeal.

Closer to Southeast Asia than Sydney is the Maldives, an oft-overlooked vacation spot despite its myriad offerings for the family.

Its predictable, all-year balmy weather and resort ambience is a bonus for people who seek a laidback pace and lots of sun, sand, and sea. To ensure some private time for the adults, pick a resort that has a kids’ club and dedicated kids’ programme, supervised sporting activities for children, and things to do as a family. Accommodation should ideally feature direct access to the sand and sea, with clean sand and shallow waters that pose minimal hazard to adventurous kids.

A resort that welcomes families About 15 minutes by speedboat from Male International Airport, Maldives is Sheraton

Opposite Page: Camp Hyatt has staff that will supervise kids in activities, like painting THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Enjoying the water; beach view at Bel-Air Resort; beachfront cottage, with access to long boardwalk that leads to over-the-water bungalows; an ideal family vacation mean that there is something for everyone

Maldives Full Moon Resort and Spa, a funfilled family-friendly resort. Located on its own private island, the shallow lagoon in which the resort lies is a safe environment for children to swim or learn to snorkel under adult supervision. For those just-in-case accidents, medical services are available 24/7.

Fifty-five beachfront cottages and 44 beachfront deluxe rooms are cosily nestled among verdant foliage in a private corner of the island. Ideal for families, each 76 square metre (sqm) thatched-roof cottage offers generous indoor spaces with a delightful al fresco garden shower, warm wood furniture, vaulted ceiling, private terrace and direct access to the sea. The deluxe rooms, smaller at 52 sqm each, are also sea-facing and feature ground- or first-floor accommodation with a private terrace or balcony. The luxury over-the-water bungalows and villas, better suited for guests sans kids, are located at

the opposite side of the island far from the family area, and accessed via boardwalk over the lagoon’s clear waters.

On-site treats and delights Childcare services can be arranged so the parents can slip away for some private moments—such as to the world’s first Shine Spa for Sheraton, which recently opened at the resort. In this world of tranquillity, you can indulge in treats that originate from China, Thailand, India, Arabia and the Mediterranean. Wake up refreshed and ready to explore the resort—there are the fitness centre, tennis court, island boutique, five restaurants and two lounge bars to check out.

Ahoy there, all aboard!

What’s an island resort without the sea sports?

There are plenty to choose from. Ride the

waves on a banana boat, or flop belly-down on ski tubes and feel the salt spray and wind as you skim across the Indian Ocean.

Several lucky holidaymakers have found themselves riding amidst a dolphin pod as the playful creatures sneak up from behind and surround them. Keeping pace with the ski tubes, they slice gracefully through the waters, piercing the air with their high-pitched squeals of joyous laughter. Other motorised and non-motorised water fun like canoeing in single- and double-seaters, catamaran sailing, wind surfing, wake boarding and knee boarding—including instruction—are available throughout the day.

For diving enthusiasts, Sheraton Maldives is a haven with easy access to over 40 world-class dive sites, such as the renowned Banana Reef a mere five minutes away, Shark Point, HP Reefs, Nassimo Thila and Okobe Thila. Kids from eight years can pick up the sport from

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THIS Page: Colourful beddings, lots of cute stuffed toys, and kiddie toiletries at Swissôtel mean kids won’t mind staying in their room

the resort-based Euro Divers. Snorkelling, or riding the glass-bottom boat, is another way to view the underwater world’s treasure trove of plant and animal life. Be mesmerised by the wonders of the ecosystem as spotted eagle and sting rays, hawksbill and green turtles, Napoleon fish, moray eels and other species nonchalantly go about their lives, weaving through the fronds, gliding effortlessly through the waters, totally unperturbed by the appreciative human audience.

THAI ONE ON If you’d rather venture into more familiar territory, head to Phuket and its wonderful beaches. The Bel Air Resort & Spa, Panwa features the largest and most spacious ocean view suites in Phuket. Each of the two-bedroom and three-bedroom suites showcase a panoramic view of the sea situated by the Cape of Panwa on the southeast part of Phuket. The suites are equipped with the televisions with DVD players, personalised kitchen and private on-call butler service, making in-room dining a pleasure. All suites

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have an open balcony with breathtaking sea views or garden views. Selected suites and plunge pool suites also provide private and direct pool access at the edge of the balcony making it ideal for families.

You can either just lounge on the beach or swim with the kids either in your private pool or in the sea. The kids won’t lack for exciting activities. The resort’s Kids’ World has different sections for different ages, offers play stations, Internet café, movie room, juice bar, indoor and outdoor games, all in a spacious setting, and supervised by qualified caretakers. The Capri Beach Club, located only 1.5 km from the resort, around three minutes by the free shuttle bus provides loungers with side tables and umbrellas to enjoy the sun, sea and sand in complete relaxation in utmost exclusivity and privacy. The resort’s beach shuttle runs every 30 minutes from the resort to the beach. Beachside BBQs in the evening can be arranged.

Urban escape If going somewhere with the kids is not an option, another way to “go on a break” is to checkin at a hotel with superb kids’ programmes—like Swissôtel.

From a bed with charming bedding or a vast array of toys and books, or a dedicated play area to DVD programmes just for kids, Swissôtel Kids Room is a paradise that promises to pamper little guests with nothing less than the hotel’s “Very Important Kids” (VIK) treatment. Specially set up with child-friendly materials and colourful furnishings, the room is connected to or adjoins the parents’ room to enable parents to stay close to their little ones. The VIK treatment extends out of their

little kingdom to the kids’ swimming pool, F&B outlets where unique kids’ menus are provided, and other areas where a host of kiddie privileges await. Babysitting services are also available upon request.

The Swissôtel Kids Room was first launched in early 2004 at Swissôtel The Bosphorus in Istanbul. Today, it is a global concept endorsed by all Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts around the world.

Mr. Meinhard Huck, President of Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts, said, “Children have different needs from those of adults when travelling on holiday. I have a young daughter and I am able to appreciate staying at a child-friendly hotel. When my daughter is comfortable and happy at a hotel, my wife and I can enjoy our stay better.”

Such a concept is also invaluable to parents who travel a lot on business. With the Swissôtel Kids Room, business travellers can now bring their kids along on trips and working mothers need not worry about leaving the kids at home. Families also need not downsize their holiday plans in search of child-friendly accommodation and in the current economic climate, “staycations” will ensure that families can still have their vacations without having to travel overseas.

For the Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore, their Kids Room welcomes the little ones with adorably themed and colourful bedding, vibrant carpets, cuddly toys and educational reading materials.

This special treatment for kids extends out of the Kids Room to the outdoor kids’ swimming pool and dining outlets.

Over at the Swissôtel Merchant Court, Singapore, the Kids Room has lots of toys and books, a bed with irresistibly adorable bedding and colourful kiddie-sized plastic hangers bring cheer to the room while the brightly coloured writing desk and chairs provide the perfect setting for any child to work on their arts and craft.

What’s more, the bathroom comes with childfriendly step stool, non-slip mat and vibrantly kaleidoscopic plastic tumblers. For toddlers, baby bathtub and bath toys will be provided.

To keep the kids entertained, DVD players and complimentary kids’ movies are available.

For outdoor activities, kids can enjoy the

KIDS’ DAY OUT More ideas on where to take the tykes 6D Great Sydney Family Fun Have fun and bond with your family at the same time. Join the Great Sydney Family Fun Race tour, with departures beginning this November.

Highlights: Hunter Valley—Hunter Valley

Gardens, aqua golf; Port Stephens—four-wheel sanddune drive & sand-boarding adventure, Australian Shark & Ray Centre, DIY Aussie BBQ dinner, moonlight wildlife tour; Sydney—Sydney city tour, Sydney Wildlife World; Magical Experience—Christmas lights

spectacular, movie under the stars. www.ctc.com.sg California Dreamin’ California visitors can make every penny of their sightseeing budget count when they travel with CityPass. Romantic, quirky San Francisco’s most popular six attractions cost US$56 less with CityPass. Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, star haunts and houses, and celebrity spotting saves the starstruck $51 with CityPass.

While admission to Southern California’s famous theme parks will cost about 30% less than regular admission prices at citypass.com.

Valid for nine consecutive days, San Francisco CityPass includes a seven-day MUNI public transportation pass— with full access to cable cars, light rail, and the entire city bus system—and one admission to each of the following attractions: California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Aquarium of the Bay at Pier 39, Blue & Gold Fleet Bay Cruise Adventure, and an option ticket to be used at either

the de Young Museum and California Legion of Honor (if visited on the same day), or the Exploratorium science museum.

The Hollywood CityPass is valid for nine consecutive days and includes one admission to: A behind-the-scenes tour of the Walk of Fame with Red Line Tours; tour of movie stars’ homes from Starline Tours of Hollywood; an option of either The Hollywood Museum in the Historic Max Factor Building or a guided tour of the Kodak Theatre; and either the Hollywood Wax Museum or the new Madame Tussauds Hollywood. While Southern California CityPass visitors who happen to visit Disneyland on their birthday this year get a choice of extras, ranging from

a merchandise card good at select shops, FastPass privileges, or a free return visit on another day. The booklet includes six days of park admissions, and is valid for 14 calendar days, including day of first use. Tickets include: A Disneyland Resort Three-Day Park Hopper Bonus ticket for Disneyland Park and Disney’s California Adventure Park (including one early entrance to Disneyland Park), one day at Universal Studios Hollywood and in San Diego, one day at Seaworld, the San Diego Zoo or the Zoo’s Wild Animal Park.

fun slides and wading pool located on level two of the hotel. Babysitting service can also be arranged for a fee.

GO CAMPING! The newly opened Camp Hyatt at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin allows family to travel, relax, and have fun, all at the same time.

Camp Hyatt is a year-round activity centre for children age three to 12, offering a wide range of activities and adventures that focus on the culture, history, and environment surrounding Hong Kong. From clay moulding to watching children’s movies, storytelling to toy hunting in the pool, all activities are supervised by trained counsellors to ensure a safe and enriching experience.

With the kids occupied at Camp Hyatt, dads can enjoy the signature whiskies and cocktails in the classy Tin Tin Bar, while moms can unwind with unique spa treatments at Melo Spa with calming mountain

Camp Hyatt

or harbour views. Conveniently located within a three-minute walk from the University MTR Station, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin has 434 guestrooms and 133 long stay suites, all commanding views of Tolo Harbour, Kau To Shan, and Sha Tin Racecourse. Two restaurants offer

international and local cuisine, and the bar is perfect for after-hours rendezvous.

Recreational facilities include 25-metre outdoor heated swimming pool, fully equipped fitness centre, tennis court, sauna, whirlpool facilities, and bicycles for scenic rides along Tolo Harbour.

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lifestyle conversation Text by Say Liang Lim | Photography courtesy of Sixth Sense Communications

The

Chinese Evolution Every city all over the world has some version of Chinese cuisine, that is has almost become a generic label.

What exactly is Chinese cuisine? We find out from Chef Jereme Leung

Jereme Leung got his start in the proverbial Chinese kitchen in Hong Kong in 1983.

He lived with 12 other “cooks” in a room with three-tier beds; there was less cooking than dishwashing during the first four years. Even afterwards, the training was highly informal.

There wasn’t room, so to speak, for a lackadaisical attitude so he grew tenacious about eking out an education.

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The chef, who was recognised twice over by The American Academy of Hospitality Science as one of the world’s best, recalled the times he woke up at ungodly hours to head off his mentor in the kitchen and badger him with questions.

And when the answers were opaque, employed subterfuge.

He hid ingredients, observed developments and reverseengineered “secret” recipes.

“It taught us to be flexible and that there’s a way to everything,” he says now of those learning years.

Food and identity His occupation, in every sense of the word, was unglamorous.

It still is, he contends.

“The quality of the people you have in the trade determines how far the cuisine can go.

Chinese chefs go into the trade

like me. We are not in it to be famous. We go into it because most of the proper jobs were out of reach, whereas in the West, a master degree holder wants to be a chef and goes on a professional course for four years. If you look at the big names in the current international market now, you don’t see a Chinese.”

And just as a long undulating tradition enriches Chinese cuisine, so do hidebound

Jereme Leung’s Top Three Chinese restaurants Hankering for some Chinese food? Head to these establishments. They come with the best recommendations Yung Kee (Hong Kong) Famous for its siu ngo (roasted goose) and homemade pe dan (century eggs), the breadth of 70-plus years-old proprietor Mr Gam’s knowledge and the lengths that he goes to to explore traditional and “lost” Chinese ingredients wins Leung’s admiration. Open 11am-11:30pm daily, closed on first three days of Chinese New Year. 32-40 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong; tel (2522) 2522 1624; www.yunkee.com.hk Bo Innovation (Hong Kong) The two-star Michelin restaurant and its chef Alvin Leung gets the nod for his sheer innovation in wedding Chinese cuisine and “full core” molecular gastronomy. Open

conventions hold it back.

Chinese culture is rooted in Confucianism wherein being reserved is a sign of character character and opinions are impositions. Change upsets the apple cart and evokes a visceral response.

“Chinese food is like that—take it or leave it!” Chef Jereme caricatures.

Chinese cuisine was left insular, and altogether worse for wear. Not all markets are pedantic though. Singapore’s for example, is open to tweaking the odd dish. But progress can be wayward.

“It’s a double-edged sword,” he says. “It can be overdone and come to a point when you look at the food and you think, ‘Sh*t, what is this? Is this Chinese? Is this Thai? Is this Vietnamese?’”

for lunch, noon-3pm (Mon-Fri), dinner 7pm-midnight (Mon-Sat); Shop 13, 2/F J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong (private lift on 18 Ship Street); 852 2850 8371; www.boinnovation.com Da Dong Roast Duck (Beijing) Da Dong, also the name of the owner, could easily have gone the way of Quan Ju De, but the owner trains his eye for detail on the traditional methods of roasting ducks, down to such brass tacks as the exhaust systems of the ovens. The restaurant, says Leung, produces the best Peking ducks in the world.

22 Dongsishitiao, Beijing 100007; South of Nanxincang International Building; tel (010) 5169 0328

The vilification from Leung, who proudly calls himself a “Chinaman,” is measured. Since his appointment in 1995 as the youngest Chinese Executive Chef of a five-star hotel (Mandarin Oriental, Surabaya), he worked kitchens across Asia, spending no longer than two years in most. And he runs them like the “militar y.” A Chinese restaurant serves only Chinese food—none of that licentious “fusion” for him. This stems from a deep appreciation of identity. A dish, said the culture buff, should have history; a traceable lineage.

“When I was working in Malaysia from ’98 to ’00, I covered the entire country. On my days off, I travelled because I wanted to experience the food; I wanted to see the culture. I

The master in action: Chef Jereme conferring with colleagues and creating a masterpiece

wanted to understand the entire thing. I did the same thing every country I went. At some point, I was able to understand the differences among the regional cuisines. Sichuan, Beijing, Shanghai, and Cantonese cuisines are all different. But their difference comes from the regional produce, people, and tastes. The fundamentals like the cooking methods are the same.”

Doing a redefinition T h e r e ’s n o t h i n g w r o n g with change, says Leung, it’s inevitable even. Change only goes awr y when it’s implemented without a firm grasp of the fundamentals.

“Take Quan Ju De in Beijing,” he says. “It was the most popular Peking Duck restaurant in the world. They used to make the best ducks in the world by roasting them with wood in an old-fashioned two-tonne brick oven, the skin was so crispy and dry that if you accidentally

dropped it, it would break into pieces. It was the perfect way to cook them. Then they decided on this crazy ‘we want to adopt the latest technology’ idea, so they got the latest oven from Europe to roast their ducks. Now, they look like roast ducks, but the flavours are far from what they used to be.”

Last year, Leung decided to take the next logical step in penning Chinese cuisine’s new chapter and founded Jereme Leung Creative Concepts to consult on New Chinese Cuisine.

His methods are simple—he only tinkers with the ingredients and the presentation. The cuisine stays the course.

“There is still so much potential for improvement. A lot has been done for other cuisines around the world, to make a modern fusion or whatever you call it, whereas Chinese food is only at the beginning.” But what a beginning, with Leung leading the way.

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traveltalk

8 Have something to say? Send your vignettes or experiences to terriegutierrez@epl.com.sg

Text By Jonathan French

INSIDER

INFORMATION Top 10 tips from the world’s most frequent flyers We travel so often that sometimes we tend to forgo the basic precautions, thinking that hey, we’re already masters of the road. Well, it never hurts to be reminded of some basics mustdos when travelling. Last issue, we dished out some fairly sensible advice (we thought) about travelling. This time around, we ask the help of frequent flyers from Priority Pass for their top travel tips—from saving money, avoiding stress, and jetlag.

Protect laptops and essential business documents. A stolen or damaged laptop can ruin more than just a business trip.

If vital documents are in it, it can be a commercial disaster.

So always have backups of vital documents and ensure that any sensitive information in your laptop is securely encrypted.

Save presentations on a USB stick—too many embarrassing situations have been caused by a problem in connectivity or batteries failing. Finally, don’t ever check your laptop into the hold of an aircraft, unless you

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are not really bothered about seeing it again.

Get adequate insurance.

Having adequate cover for all eventualities can be the wisest investment you will ever make.

For frequent flyers, an annual policy makes sense, but don’t choose the cheapest without comparing deals. Sometimes the cheapest deals will cut corners on the levels of cover, or impose high excess levels and other restrictions. For example, take a moment to think how much your luggage is worth, and how much it would cost you to replace all the items in your suitcase.

Think about medication, glasses and more. Unless you’ve been stuck in a foreign country without the right medication, it may not occur to you how important it is. Make sure you take enough of your prescription drugs with you, as well as overthe-counter medications.

Less obvious are glasses and contact lenses. Bring a spare for fallback. Or, if you don’t

have an extra, bring the prescription so you can have it filled. Check immunisations and certifications if travelling to more exotic destinations.

Control communication costs. Expensive roaming charges on your mobile phone, Wi-Fi charges to check your emails using your laptop, even just receiving calls and texts on your mobile—they can all add up to a lot more than you expect. Make sure you have selected the best mobile tariff for international calls, and plan ahead for Wi-Fi access if you plan to use the Internet a lot. You can save a lot of money by signing up to a global Wi-Fi access deal.

Overcome jetlag. There are as many jetlag cures as there are passengers. Since jetlag affects people differently, “cures” may have varying degrees of effectiveness. Some of the more effective ways to deal with it: Set your watch to the time in your destination as soon as you start your trip, and acclimatise your body to that timetable; sunlight has been known to help “reset” your body clock, so as soon as you land, try to get out into the sun; drink lots of water on the flight and avoid alcohol.

Avoid airport stress. Check in online to avoid the long lines and know your baggage weight limit. With many no-frills airlines getting tougher on the weight of bags, you may find yourself paying more for your baggage to travel than for yourself. If you can’t always go Business or First Class, get a membership to an independent airport VIP lounge programme like Priority Pass so you can have access to a quiet and calm lounge in many airports.

Avoid excessive charges on foreign exchange and credit cards. Think about how you will pay for things on your trip. Does your bank charge a fee every time you use a card abroad?

Indeed, will your card work at all when you are abroad? It’s very awkward when you pay a restaurant bill and your card is declined, but that can happen as a result of banks’ anti-fraud processes if you are in a country that you don’t normally visit.

It’s best to advise your bank of a forthcoming trip, especially if it’s to somewhere more off the beaten track.

Another banking quer y that arises more these days is that you will be offered the opportunity to settle your bill at a given exchange rate so you can see the amount in your home currency. The general advice is not to do so, as most reputable banks will beat the rate offered by shops or restaurants.

Get an upgrade. Upgrades happen, but it seems not to be something you can plan for.

Dressing smartly and being friendly and polite at check-in helps, and it doesn’t do any harm to ask—politely—if there is any possibility of an upgrade.

Don’t be selfish—think of others! This is not exactly a tip, but a plea. One of the biggest complaints travellers have is inconsiderate behaviour—things like talking loudly on a mobile phone, or playing loud music through headphones. So, always be aware of your own behaviour and maybe leave your phone switched off for a while.

And finally—enjoy yourself!

This may sound daft, but sometimes the stresses of a journey can almost hide the pleasures, especially if it’s a business trip. But members did actually make a point of saying that those who are fortunate enough to travel on business should ensure they appreciate how lucky they are.

Seeing new places and cultures is a thrill that not all can enjoy, and is something to be savoured—even on a business trip.

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WORKWARE Earning a living has just gotten a tiny bit harder. Some suggestions and timely assists to make life go a little smoother 1. Manage your money better.

It’s now even easier to pay your bills and manage your cash flow.

Introducing Nokia Money, a new mobile financial service from Nokia that offers consumers with mobile device access to basic financial services. Introduced at Nokia World in early September, the service will be rolled out gradually early next year. How simple is it to use? It will enable consumers to send money to another person just by using the person’s mobile phone number, as well as to pay merchants for goods and services, pay their utility bills, or recharge their prepaid SIM cards (SIM

top-up). The services can be accessed 24 hours a day from anywhere, saving on travel costs and time.

Nokia is building a wide network of Nokia Money agents, where consumers can deposit money in or withdraw cash from their accounts. For more information, www.nokia.com 2. Software can be sexy.

Apple, the master of computer innovation, recently released its Mac OS X Snow Leopard operating system. Why does everyone want it? Snow Leopard builds on a decade of OS X innovation and success with hundreds of refinements, new core technologies and out of the box support for Microsoft Exchange.

Users will notice refinements including a more responsive Finder; mail that loads messages up to twice as fast; Time Machine with an up to 80% faster initial backup; a Dock with Exposé integration; QuickTime X with a redesigned player that allows users to easily view, record, trim and share video; and a 64-bit version of Safari 4 that is up to 50% faster and resistant to crashes caused by plug-ins. Snow Leopard is half the size of the previous version

and frees up to 7GB of drive space once installed. Best of all, it’s very affordable: S$48, single user license; Snow Leopard Family Pack (single household, five-user license) for S$78 SRP. www.apple.com 3. Add a little funk into your wardrobe. Add some pizzazz to your sober business suits with these unique cufflinks from KUFZ. Engineered to give a more relaxed fit, KUFZ links hold the cuff in a completely different way so it adapts its shape to what you are

OLD-SCHOOL…

…AND DESIGN-FORWARD

There’s something about leather that bring to mind the halcyon days of travel—before we’ve ever been beset by crowded airports, paranoid security checks, and flight delays.

As a reminder of those days and also because it’s the brand’s 125th anniversary, Victorinox celebrates with a limited edition travel bag crafted of the finest full-grain, Italian Belting leather and European materials, which reflect the old-world luxury and dedicated workmanship of the brand. The bag opens flat and features a front garment storage area w ith compression straps and a rear compartment with a removable suiter featuring a fullsize hanger and foam bolsters to keep clothes wrinkle-free. Each limited edition bag is individually numbered and comes with a certificate of authenticity. The

Popular luggage brand Samsonite has come up with its new eye-catching Pixelcube collection. The new collection marries high performance— in its material, silent rolling wheels, and lightness— with seriously stylish looks.

Patented by Hinomoto Japan, the different sizes wheels (large rear wheels and small front wheels) ensure unmatched rolling manoeuvrability. Rolling on most surfaces or narrow gangways becomes weightless and effortless, whilst bumpy surfaces or curbs are easily negotiated on two large rear wheels. The outer shell is made of shiny polycarbonate, whilst a fixed TSA lock guarantees complete peace of mind. Each Pixelcube luggage comes with a set of three colourful metallic sticker to imbue your luggage

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bag is also backed by the Travel Luxury Care™ Program, which includes the Carry With Confidence™ Plus Guarantee and the Swiss Tracker™ Bag Tracking Program. The Carry With Confidence™ Plus Guarantee provides coverage for common carrier damage and supplies a free, temporary loaner bag should your bag ever need repairs, while the Swiss Tracker™ Bag Tracking Program helps reunite owners with their lost luggage. RSP S$6,900. Check www.seager. com.sg for listing of stores that carry the product.

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

with your personality (will also come in handy when looking for your suitcase in the baggage carousel!). Pixelcube comes in two models—Pixelcube Framed and Pixelcube Zipped— and is available in Wine Red,

wearing and doing. The links are fashioned from a single piece of cellulose resin, making them tough and durable yet easy to insert into double cuffs. KUFZ are available in a range of colour designed to work as identical pairs or mixed for a unique look. www.kufz.co.uk

Champagne and Anthracite.

Available at all Samsonite outlets and leading department stores.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT

SIGN OF THE TIMES

There’s a reason the Victorinox Swiss Army Knife is so iconic.

Lightweight, multifunctional and compact, it’s a very handy tool that everyone should have in their bag—whether or not they’re hieing off into the Himalayas or just going to a mall nearby. Designed by the founder of the company, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year, the tool quickly became a staple of soldiers’ kits and from there evolved into civilian use.

For the anniversar y, Victorinox is relaunching the classic versions of the knife: The Classic, with the indispensable keyring; the Climber, with 14 functions, the ultra-geekily chic CyberTool, and SwissCard, which won the Red Dot design prize in the Best of the Best category. The

The next time you’re in for a long wait at Changi, lose yourself in Times Travel, the new concept store of Times bookstore. Times Travel is a 182 x 101 square-metre haven designed for travel-warriors who have different needs from regular bookstore patrons.

“These travellers have limited time for browsing, are sharp shoppers and expect to be kept up to date with the latest news and international releases,” said Mr Daniel Cheong, Head of Retail and Distribution, Times Publishing Ltd. Times Travel will carry hot-off-the-press titles, international dailies, travel books and journals and other products that travellers need. The store is designed for easy navigation for a hassle-free

anniversary logo is etched into the primary blade of these knives, while the Victorinox emblem is on the red handle. All products will be packed and delivered in premium gift boxes with a magnetic lock. Available at BHG Bugis, CK Tang, Home-Fix, Isetan Scotts, Metro Paragon, Outdoor Life, Robinsons Centerpoint, Takashimaya, The Planet Traveller, The Wallet Shop

DO YOUR SHOPPING EARLY Before you know it, the Christmas season will be upon us. Get a leg up on your shopping with a Bicester Village Gift Card from Chic Outlet Shopping Villages across Europe. Give the card for shopping-mad loved ones or use one to do your own shopping.

The Bicester Village Gift Card is

accepted by all retailers in Bicester Village and can also be used at all Chic Outlet Shopping Villages across Europe. Buy one for £2 at the tourism Information centre in Bicester Village and simply load it with any value from £5 to £1,000.

For up to 12 months (or until the funds run out), your gift card can

Bicester Village, one of Chic Outlet Shopping Villages in Europe

shopping experience. Check out the gift section where there’s an exquisite selection of premium pens at “The Art of Writing” counter, designer stationery gift sets as well as children stationery, and

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music and movies merchandise.

Other travel-related merchandise includes the classic Insight Guides’ globes, exclusive Times Travel notebooks and postcards, maps, travel locks, and handy neck cushions.

THIS IS HOW WE ROCK & ROLL be used in over 120 boutiques and restaurants in Bicester Village, and at the eight other shopping villages across Europe.

Stylishly packaged in a beautiful presentation card and envelope, we dare you to resist temptation and buy one for yourself. www.

ChicShoppingOutlet.com

Alcohol and rock&roll have always been inseparable. Which is probably why Absolut launched its Absolut Vodka Rock Edition, a limited edition bottle wrapped in a leather-and-studs gift package. In its celebration of rock, the iconic brand brought together visionary rock & roll photographer Danny Clinch and rock band Wolfmother for a creative collaboration.

Capturing Wolfmother and the Absolut Vodka Rock Edition bottle in a series of photographs, Clinch invites vodka lovers behind the scenes to “roll with the band” in the drink’s website. Absolut Vodka Rock Edition (S$28) is available at all DFS outlets at the Singapore

Changi International Airport from September onwards or until stocks last. www.absolut.com

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W HONG KONG

1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Kowloon, Hong Kong www.whotels.com

Text By Susan Leong | Photography Courtesy Of W Hong Kong

speakers and metallic hues suggest a certain grittiness that calls to mind the container ships at the harbour.

Emotional Connections

W Hong Kong’s vision is to become a destination and not just another hotel, so its design embodies the eclectic, flirty, quirky, and whimsical.

Step into the hotel and the difference is immediately apparent. This is not the usual luxury travel pad. Art, fashion, music, and architecture are very much an integral part of the W personality, such as the two Damien Hirsts on nondescript easels against the wall, on loan from a gallery. The eyes of a holographic Mona Lisa follow your every move— which is nothing new—but no other Mona Lisa I know has aircraft circling her head, and parachuters jumping off every few seconds. There is an amusing painting of a Chairman Mao silhouette with a W in his hand, and the torso and legs of a man as he executes a headstand and is semi-

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submerged in water against the Hong Kong cityscape. Even the reception area has been designed for maximum impact—featuring a high back wall whose bursts of changing psychedelic colours, while headache-inducing, are certainly eye-catching; the reception counters also glow with bright luminous colours.

Wow Retreats Two interior designers— Australian Nicholas Graham and Japanese Yasumichi Morita—were engaged to flesh out W Hong Kong’s urban jungle theme. Morita’s floral motifs give an almost Zen tranquillity to the rooms, which soothe with their quiet elegance, and organic hues of grey and green. Graham’s clean lines brighten up the rooms with whimsical swirls that hint of the earth, and a freedom that

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

borders on abandon.

The Extreme WOW Suite is the equivalent of a presidential suite. Floor-to-ceiling windows take the place of a wall, providing stunning vistas of the commercial waterfront.

Reflective metallic stools with distinctly Chinese motifs polished to a high shine, stand side by side with graceful sofas atop plush carpets. A big black bear chaise lounge, complete with beady eyes and rounded jaw, invites you to relax on it—if you dare.

Diverse design elements like shape, angularity, colour and texture work together to create a space that exudes class and exclusivity. Dark wood blends with glass while leather complements the smooth fabrics. Mirror surfaces on the bedroom ceiling flows naturally down to the mirrored walls, while the fluorescent tubes, audio

I particularly like the Living Room (lobby) with its doublestorey glass windows. Natural light floods the area in the day while mood lighting provides a cosy ambience at night.

Custom-made furnishings and accessories, hallmarks of the W brand, are given free rein at the lobby lounge with its jungle-inspired motif. Halfmetre-sized “insects” cling to the walls, “butterflies” hang from the ceilings and flit across the room; wall hangings, wallpaper, posters, lampshades and even cushion covers expand on the theme.

Style and substance also extend through the public areas and restaurants. The lift lobby on the guestroom floors, for instance, features built-in floor-to-ceiling shelves, which contain books, a pair of ancient Chinese silk shoes, bunch of grapes, a phone with a rotary dial, music box with ballerina and sandwich—all made of white clay and glued to the shelves (of course!); the displays vary from floor to floor.

The downside to the study room decor is that the lift call button, also painted white, gets lost among the display items.

Two hotel features that have drawn raves are the hotel’s rooftop pool and mega-sized mosaic art piece by Australian designer Fabio Ongarato.

Located on the 73rd storey, this is the highest swimming pool in Hong Kong. A jacuzzi and poolside deck chairs and tables provide guests reason to savour

the top-of-the-world feeling.

The Taste Test Kitchen, the all-day dining restaurant, boasts an open kitchen, innovative décor, creative food displays and the Chef’s Table—a long communal table that encourages interaction.

While it’s perfectly normal to spot cloves of garlic or poultry in a kitchen, you wouldn’t expect to see a clothes iron or canvas shoes. Lining the wall about eight feet above the bread and dessert stations are white clay “intruders” to a normal kitchen scene. Kitchen is a visual feast, and it’s not all about the food.

There is a cabinet piled high with teetering crockery—sculptures that add a bit of fun to the dining place. A glass cabinet is lined with shiny pots of all shapes and sizes. One kitchen wall is covered with hooks of all sizes and colours—tempting you to hang your coat up.

Fire is the fine-dining restaurant where the upper echelon gathers to see and be seen. “Black Room,” a private room that is austere in colour but surprisingly elegant in appeal, is often used for corporate meetings. Several semi-private dining rooms are available for people who prefer privacy, but don’t want to be totally removed.

These rooms have no walls or doors; instead, horizontal wood slates are used to achieve the private-public balance.

The passageway between the semi-private dining rooms was inspired by a fashion runway, and diners who use it to access the main dining area make like models strutting their stuff. At W Hong Kong, even how and where guests walk add to the whole equation.

NOSTALGIA URBAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL 77 Tiong Bahru Road, Singapore 168727; tel (65) 6808 1818 www.hotelnostalgia.com.sg

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Text By terrie v.gutierrez | Photography Courtesy Of nostalgia hotel

Sometimes the milieu is all.

Frequent travellers know this.

They live out of a suitcase and stare up at bland hotel ceilings and furnishings, sometimes waking up not knowing where they are what they’re doing there.

It can’t be a good experience, which is why the search for a hotel with all the creature comforts and beautiful to boot is a continuing process.

Nostalgia Urban Boutique Hotel, nestled in historic Tiong Bahru is the perfect example of a hotel that has a sense of place. Elegant yet cosy, the 50-room Nostalgia has the vibe of a posh hotel from a bygone era—the 60s perhaps, or maybe a generation earlier?

While its look and feel does not really evoke a particular era, thus making it timeless and timely, it can’t be denied that the hotel is very much a product of the here and now, as its modern conveniences show. Liken it to a lady who plays dress up with her grandmother’s heirloom jewellery and couture clothes.

The result is an intriguing mix of the contemporary and vintage, offbeat and straightforward, whimsical and practical. The overall effect comes out as elegant and understated.

It’s a small hotel—only 50 rooms—and yet, this is the type of establishment where one feels compelled to dress up to go into the lobby…and yet, it’s comfortable enough in its own skin that it comes off as a friendly neighbourhood enclave.

A Past Revisited Art pieces, decorative touches, and the furnishings were chosen with care, so they blend into the whole aesthetic. Artist Andre Tan

lent his creativity to the whole hotel, especially the lounge/ lobby area, which has artwork that hark back to 1940s Singapore. The artist was inspired by the Straits Settlements shophouse architecture and the Art-Deco gems of the area to create artwork that evoke all these influences while infusing the hotel with its own distinct personality.

Added to the mix is the choice of furniture, which are a blend of rococo and baroque pieces, solid wood, thick carpets on Spanish and Italian tiles—on a lesser hand, this would have come out a mess.

But with the artist’s masterful blending of influences and bending of the rules, the result

is a pleasant mix of whimsy, elegance and comfort.

Rooms With a View From the lobby with its lounge and al-fresco restaurant, perfect for a lazy weekend brunch, we go to the third floor, with its lap pool and a terrace bar overlooking Tiong Bahru. The pool area with its contemporary rattan furniture and chairs is the perfect place to nurse a refreshing drink while viewing the neighbourhood. One look at the surrounding area and it’s immediately apparent that Nostalgia Hotel is firmly rooted in this place. It’s as if it had stood here for decades, even if its DNA is newly minted. On one end of the street is Tiong Bahru Market

with its rows and rows of food stalls selling local delicacies, all around are restored Art Deco buildings.

For a small hotel, the rooms are surprisingly spacious. The rooms come in two themes— Lush and Colonial. The Lush theme reflects the historical/ romantic aspect of the district while the Colonial theme evokes the colonial heritage of Tiong Bahru, and by extension, Singapore. Each of the rooms is furnished with high-quality fittings and fixtures, and graced with original art on the walls. As with most hotels, Nostalgia’s rooms are equipped with the latest technology, including Wi-Fi and cable TV. Linens and beds are of the highest quality.

Toiletries and grooming essentials are also grouped into two, depending on the room. Standard and Superior rooms have toiletries by French designer Pascal Morabito while the Exclusive and Balcony rooms have amenities by luxury brand Chopard.

The little touches are also noteworthy. I particularly liked the personalised name cards in the room and appreciated the primer on the area that’s in every room, with tips and suggestions on where to explore and where to sample the best local food. While the place might set the tone of the hotel, it’s little touches like this that make a hotel worth coming back to.

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Eugenia Hotel

AN ASIAN MASSAGE ROADMAP Traditional massage and healing is the oldest and simplest form of medical care, dating back to ancient cultures. In Asia, many countries and regions have their own specialties. Relais & Châteaux is now promoting a unique “Journey of the Soul” for well-being through the region’s different massages and traditional medicines.

TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE or Nuad Phaen Boran, draws significantly from India’s ancient Ayurvedic traditions. How it’s done and benefits: Therapists use their hands, knees, legs, and feet to move you into a series of yoga-like stretches. Benefits include relief from stress, deep relaxation, warmed and stretched muscles, healing energy flow, greater flexibility, increased and focused energy levels, prevention of injury, relief

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from sore and aching muscles and joints, detoxification, and a feeling of confidence and well-being. Where to get it: The Rachamankha in Chiang Mai, in the centre of the ancient walled city; The Eugenia, a late 19th century colonial-style hotel in Bangkok; and Phuket Pavilions in Phuket.

AYURVEDIC KALARI MASSAGE India’s Ayurvedic Kalari massage is the “mother of all healing.” Benefits: Rejuvenation, better flexibility, reduction of fat tissues, and treatments for rheumatism, arthritis, back pain, headache and stress related disorders.

Where to get it: Malabar House, in Fort Cochin, in the heart of Kerala, the birthplace of Ayurveda.

TUI NA, or Chinese acupressure is a fundamental part of Chinese medicine.

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

How it’s done and benefits: Pressing and kneading of the energy points and channels.

Complementing Tui Na is foot reflexology, which treats the foot as a microcosmic map for the whole body. For example, the heel is connected to organs in the lower abdomen, while the toes correspond to eyes and other regions of the face.

Thus, a Chinese foot massage not only relieves foot fatigue but revitalises the entire body.

Where to get it: In Guilin, Hotel of Modern Art (HOMA)’s therapists are trained extensively in these ancient techniques.

URUT, PIJAT, and BOREH, Indonesian massage techniques.

How they’re done and benefits: For Urut, therapists use fingers, palms and sometimes the whole body to manipulate muscles and energy pathways, improving blood circulation and eliminating toxins. This technique is quite intense and can be uncomfortable at first; pijat massage is repetitive squeezing and kneading to relax tense muscles and calm the body; boreh incorporates a traditional Balinese spice body mask to warm the body, improve blood circulation and relieve muscular aches and pains, chills and headaches. Where to get these: In Bali, Matahari Beach Resort & Spa or Bali Pavilions.

TRADITIONAL MALAY MASSAGE uses touch, tone, and aromatherapy for a memorable and sensory experience. How it’s done and benefits: Long kneading, pushing, and stroking to ease muscle and joint pain, targeting pressure points.

Treatment uses oil made from herbs blended to invigorate circulation. Treatment concludes with an ancient aromatherapy

remedy of local herbal roots and flower buds mixed in an earthen pot. Where to get it: Samadhi Spa in Japamala Resort on Tioman island, Malaysia.

TRADITIONAL KHMER MASSAGE of Cambodia helps to recover a smooth energy flow and increases flexibility. How it’s done: Combines acupressure

points, pushing, pressing and light stretching movements. Where to get it: Bodia Spa at the Heritage Suites Hotel in Siem Reap. For more info on these massages and other treatments, check www.relaischateux.com or hotel’s individual websites

CHAMPAGNE AT CHUAN SPA Nothing spells luxury quite like a world-class spa treatment or a glass of Champagne. The lavish TCM-inspired Chuan Spa has paired the two together with Body and Bubbly every Monday and Tuesday. With Body and Bubbly, simply indulge in any Chuan Spa treatment for more than one hour and you’ll be free to indulge in France’s best, free-flowing-on-

All-over hydration at Chuan Spa

the-house, from the comfort of Contemplation Corner, perched 41 floors in the air. Aside from the bubbly, which clients may enjoy following the treatment, all guests enjoy complimentary access to the spa’s hot tubs, saunas, steam room, Jacuzzi, and rooftop pool. For more information, www.chuanspa. com.hk

A SPA IS BORN There’s no telling what thoughts will dance through the mind after a spa treatment that combines the soft fluidity of dance-like moves inspired by the ancient martial art of T’ai Chi, gently stretching and preparing the body, before moving to the massage bed to begin a three-hour journey to nirvadic bliss. This is part of the White Tiger Autumn Rites, one of many distinctive spa therapies at Qin The Spa, which opened in August at Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai.

Qin (pro-nounced “chin”), which means to “affect deeply,” is a sanctuary from bustling Shanghai and will most certainly affect deeply all who enter. Guests are first greeted by a floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall lacquered door of aged elm wood reminiscent of

the enormous imperial palace doors common in the early days of Chinese dynasties. Just within is a quietly stylish haven of textured black granite flooring, contemporary Chinese furniture, and beautiful objets distinctive to the destination.

Qin The Spa occupies a sprawling 8,200sq. ft. space that includes nine treatment rooms, a private manicure and pedicure room, a reserved consultation space for acupuncture, and a separate domain for foot reflexology—a staple in Chinese wellness practices.

The spacious retail area boasts specially blended, labelled and branded Qin The Spa products—the first in a Four Seasons spa. Developed in Indonesia, the products are designed to pair with each of the spa’s signature therapies.

Each treatment room

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Treatment room, Qin The Spa

takes on a unique character, distinguished by richly ornate interiors and trigrams based on the eight symbols in the I Ching: Sky, Earth, Thunder, Wind, Water (Moon), Fire (Sun), Mountain and Lake. While eeach treatment draws inspiration from ancient rites and healing methods based

on the four celestial seasonal guardians found in the birth of traditional Chinese medicine.

These include the Green Dragon Spring Rites, which incorporates a foot massage with warmed bamboo sticks; the Red Phoenix Summer Rites, the White Tiger Autumn Rites

with artistic form T’ai Chi and meditation; and the Black Tortoise Winter Rites. Also of note, is the Imperial Dragon Massage that uses warm poultices to prepare the body muscles for a detoxifying deep tissue treatment. www. fourseasons.com

300sqm of pure rejuvenation.

All treatments are carried out with TheraVine products, one of the most renowned Vinotherapy brands. The spa has a Jacuzzi, steam room and five treatment rooms—three rooms for classical treatments, one room with a hydro-tub featuring integrated massage functions and a vichy shower room in which guests are sprayed with smooth water jets from various shower heads as part of their massage.

Or guests can try the roof terrace. Have a spa treatment

while enjoying the panoramic view of the sea and the island’s capital Funchal; after, enjoy a sundowner cocktail or a glass of Madeira wine at the bar.

The spa at The Vine offers a range of treatments featuring everything from facials with ground grape seeds to anti-stress body massages to relaxing body wraps. The most popular treatment is the “Red Wine Divine Bath” involving a full body peel, followed by a bath of grape oils, full-body massage and a glass of red wine of course! Those who favour complete peace and relaxation can further indulge in in-room spa treatments where clients will be totally undisturbed. The Vine is a member of Design Hotels. For reservations, www. designhotels.com

FEELING DIVINE Whoever said wine was just for drinking? The recently opened The Vine is the only hotel in Madeira, Spain to exclusively offer Vinotherapy treatments containing chardonnay, merlot, and cabernet grape varieties.

Known for its anti-ageing properties, a Vinotherapy treat is a surefire way to take back the years. So wine lovers, beauty enthusiasts, or seekers of an extra special treatment take note—booze never made you look so good!

The Vine’s spa offers over

Vinotherapy treatments at The Vine (this and right)

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Back in the day, hotel restaurants were bland serviceable eating places that guests only patronise because either it was convenient or too late to find anything better. Today, hotel restaurants are pushing the envelope when it comes to innovative cuisines and even design aesthetics. Here, some establishments that caught our eye—and our palate:

NEW SHANGHAINESE CUISINE Over at the newly opened Sheraton Shunde Hotel it’s the best of modern Cantonese and contemporary Shanghainese dishes that are on spotlight at signature restaurant, YUE and the ballroom. The menu is the brainchild of Chinese Executive Chef Yau Ka Ming and Shanghai cuisine expert, Lee San Weng.

“It is a great opportunity to bring out the best of both Cantonese and Shanghainese dishes. We know Shunde is renowned for excellent food by great chefs, so we want to bring in something unique. ” Chef Yau says.

YUE Restaurant offers an extensive a la carte, specialty, and set menus for both family and private room dining. Both chefs will be bringing to the table many signature dishes such as “The YUE Fanfare,” a uniquely presented deep fried sea bass, accompanied with a succulent Jinhua ham sauce

from Chef Yau’s Cantonese menu and “The Lobster Trio”—a combination of three individual servings of steamed duo of crisp and sautéed garlic with lobster meat, slow-cooked lobster in Chinese rice wine brine, and a deep-fried lobster tail with a wasabi dressing and crisp prawn flakes from Chef Lee’s Shanghai creations.

The Chinese food served at Sheraton Shunde Hotel’s 1,338 sq.m ballroom and the nine function rooms will primarily be under Chef Yau’s supervision with innovative creations complemented by Chef Lee’s Shanghainese offerings.

The ballroom can cater up to a banquet of 1,180 persons.

The Hong Kong born Chef Yau specialises in fine Cantonese cuisine as well as large-scale Chinese banquets. In one of his previous posts at the famous Hsin Kuang restaurant in Hong Kong, he averaged around 2,600 tables

Clockwise From Left: Hotel Kunlun’s offerings: Devil Chicken Curry, Braised Ox Tail, Pistachio Baklava, Mezze Platter, and Baked Salmon Ronlade

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| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

Clockwise From Left:

of 12 persons in a month.

Chef Lee has worked primarily for Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, before joining The Whampoa Club in Shanghai.

YUE operating hours: Morning Tea (Yum Cha/Dim Sum),

The Gastronomical Duo (from left): Chinese Executive Chef Yau Ka Ming and Chinese Executive Sous Chef Lee San Weng of YUE Restaurant at Sheraton Shunde Hotel The YUE Duo: Cantonese Daliang Fried Egg White and Fresh Milk with Crab Roe and Shanghainese “Dong Po” Braised Pork Pyramid

8-11:30am; Lunch, 11:30am2:30pm; Dinner, 5:30-10pm.

Sheraton Shunde, 11 Desheng Zhong Road, Daliang, Shunde

District, Foshan, Guangdong 528300, China; tel (86)(757) 2888 8888; www.starwoodhotels.com

prepared strictly according to Muslim food standards.

Cr ystal Muslim Fine Dining, which will showcase the talents of Egyptian Chef Asmaa Abdelghani Aboucaid Elhadary, features an elegant main dining room in addition to three private rooms, and seats 66 comfortably.

Muted lighting sophisticated furnishing, light music—Crystal Crystal Muslim Fine Dining is the first restaurant of its kind in Beijing.

ARABIAN DELIGHTS To cater to a growing number of Arab travellers to mainland China, Hotel Kunlun has added some innovative services. One of this is its fine-dining restaurant, Crystal Muslim Fine DIning, which will offer four distinct cuisines— Middle Eastern Arab, Southeast Asian, Chinese, and Western—all

2 Xin Yuan Nan Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100004 China; tel (86 10) 6590 3388; www.hotelkunlun.com

TWO IN TAIPEI Sheraton Taipei is not new, but definitely worth checking in for its location—it’s right smack in the heart of Taipei’s government, commercial, and transportation centres.

Adjacent to the hotel is an MRT station, while the Taipei Train Station, Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall, and Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store are minutes away on foot. The ever-popular Ximending and East District shopping areas are also just a short distance away.

Another reason to stay?

The scrumptious food. The Lounge offers exceptional drinks in a relaxed environment, while the sumptuous French cuisine at Antoine Room, the traditional Japanese delicacies at Momoyama, the Italian delicacies at Pizza Pub, the genuine Cantonese dishes and the Chinese royal dining

experience at The Dragon, have all earned well-deserved reputations. New dining experiences include Sukhothai Thai Restaurant,The Guest House for Chinese cuisine and The Deli for light dining and takeout.

What to try? Sample the Sheraton Beef Noodle Soup at The Lounge; there’s a reason why celebrities come to the hotel for this. Sheraton Taipei’s signature dish for over 20 years, each bowl of soup has tender beef rib squares. The ribs and tendons are braised in different pots and the soup is made from beef bones and chicken bones mixed with soybean paste, soy sauce, scallions, garlic, crystal sugar, and Chinese herbs like Szechwan peppercorns, star anise, and cloves. Mix the slightly sweet broth with the original beef stock and add in the perfectly cooked white noodles, and you have the most treasured dish of The Lounge.

GOING LOCAL INTERNATIONAL When it comes to food, the focus goes local, according to Marriott International, which creates new restaurants around local tastes and market need, staffing them with talented chefs and marketing them to residents first.

“We like to be part of the community, and when our hotel guests see locals in our restaurants, it encourages them

to try them,” says Tuni Kyi, senior vice president of operations for Marriott International Lodging.

“This is why sometimes our restaurant concept is tied to the indigenous cuisine and sometimes it is not—It depends on what restaurants are already in the market and how we can bring some additional variety.”

The strategy is working—

LIFESTYLE

good stuff posh space perk me up gourmands corner

From LEFT: Sheraton Beef Noodle, which is a favourife of local celebrities; translucent Braised Pork with Soy Sauce

Over at The Dragon, order the Braised Pork with Soy Sauce. In a creative twist on tradition, pork with lean meat and fat in equal proportions is marinated in a special

soy sauce and then cut into translucent slices. These are stacked together with salt-dried mustard into a tower. Each portion comes with a bun in the shape of a shell, creating a

at least judging by the Fat Duck at the new Renaissance Beijing Capital hotel. A modern take on the Chinese restaurant, Fat Duck is a bright dining room with comfortable booth seating for some intimacy. Adding to the entertainment are the two open kitchens so diners can view the culinary action. “The extensive menu features all your Chinese favorites, but true to the restaurant’s name, Pecking duck is the star of the show,” says one diner. The suckling pig also got rave reviews as well as other modern takes of classic Chinese dishes.

STILL MAD ABOUT MOONCAKES

delightful reinterpretation of a classic Chinese dish.

For reservations, (886 2) 2321 1818; 12 Zhong Xiao East Road, Sec 1 R.O.C, Taipei, Taiwan; www.starwoodhotels.com

For those still craving for these Mid-Autumn Festival dedicacies, you have until October 3 to indulge. Head over to Carlton Hotel for its mooncakes from award-winning Wah Lok Cantonese Restaurant.

Choose between traditional and innovative snowskin creations.

Email restaurant @ carltonhotel.sg for order or call (65) 6349 1292

Open 11am-11pm; 61 Dongsanhuan Middle Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, Beijing 100022 China; tel (86 10) 5863 8888; www.marriott.com

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traveldeals

∗ Terms and conditions apply.

China: It’s a Big Deal Stay At Eaton Hotel with its Big Deal package starting from HK$1,099 for one-night accommodation in a deluxe room plus a host of other inclusions: buffet breakfast at Metro Buffet & Grill, a delicious dinner anywhere in the hotel (if you don’t use it up on the first night, the credit can be accumulated and used toward the next night of fine dining), in-room broadband Internet access, and access to the outdoor swimming pool and gymnasium.

For reservations and enquiries, tel (852) 2710-1828; e-mail rsvn@eatonhotels.com; www.hongkong.eatonhotels.com

Thailand: Something Extra Ever wish you could stay just one more night? At Amari Vogue Resort you can. The resort’s Stay Two Nights, Get One Night Free offer allows you to enjoy the beauty and serenity of Tubkaek Beach longer.

The offer is inclusive of American breakfast buffet and is valid until 31 October 2009.

For enquiries and bookings, email reservations@vogue.amari.com

Switzerland: Fairway to Heaven Golf lovers will adore Geneva and Hotel d’Angleterre, where three magnificent courses are all a mere 20 minutes from your room: the Golf & Country Club de Bonmont, famous for its technical difficulties and stunning views; Golf du Domaine de Divonne, 18-hole championship golf course, and the Golf & Country Club de Bossey, with views over the Lake Geneva. For CHF 3,400 (exclusive of tax) for two persons in a Classic Room for two nights, the package includes: daily buffet breakfast, welcome drink on arrival at the hotel, return transfer to the golf club along the picturesque banks of Lake Geneva, green fees for two, four-course dinner at Windows Restaurant on one evening of your stay. Available for weekday arrivals till end October 2009. Golf courses to be confirmed at time of booking.

Please check www.dangleterrehotel.com/ for more details.

Thailand: The Quality of Luxe Want stylish yet comfortable accommodation the next time you’re in Bangkok? New boutique hotel LUXX XL has a soft opening promotional rate of 2,400 baht/night in a Studio Suite for two persons and includes the following: complimentary breakfast, wireless Internet access, daily local English newspaper, shuttle service to nearby Skytrain and shopping malls, a welcome fruit platter; in-room theatre entertainment system; use of outdoor swimming pool in a private garden setting; access to the pool lounge, Dip, and restaurant, MILK. Reservation required. Rate valid until 31 October 2009.

For more information, www.luxx-xlboutiquehotel.com

France: Triumph in Paris Designed by renowned architect Christian de Portzamparc, the ultra-modern, ultra-chic 118-room Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe opened in April on Avenue Wagram, approximately 300 metres north of the Arc de Triomphe. From April 27 through January 10, 2010, the hotel is offering its Family Escape package for €435 per room, for four persons staying in one double-double room, including daily breakfast, pizza and soft drinks and free daily in-room movies. The Escape! Dining package starts at €339 per person, per night, with two-night minimum, including breakfast both days, cocktail and Indonesian dinner for two in Makassar Lounge & Restaurant.

For enquiries, go to http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/parwg-renaissance-paris-arc-de-triomphe-hotel/

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| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

China: Let’s Shake On It Close your business deal with The Kowloon Hotel’s Meet and Stay Package. For only HK$888/night for a superior room, you get: a meeting venue from 9am-5pm; buffet lunch at The Window Café; two coffee and tea breaks with snacks; upgrade to deluxe room for the organiser; daily local newspaper; welcome drink at The Middle Row; complimentary local phone calls, in-room coffee/tea-making facilities; 20% discount on laundry, dry cleaning and pressing service; 10% discount for services in the Business Centre; (except secretarial service, interpretation and translation). Valid until 31 December 2009. To avail of the package rate, you need to book a minimum of eight rooms. or enquiries and reservations, please contact our Reservations Hotline at (852) 2734 3777/2301 2668 (fax) or email rsvn.klnh@harbour-plaza.com

China: New Beginnings For big corporate gatherings, check the Westin Shenzhen Nanshan’s MICE opening package, New Beginnings. For RMB1,280 you get: one night stay in a deluxe room, daily buffet breakfast, one meeting room rental from 9am-6pm, lunch buffet or Chinese set menu, morning and afternoon coffee and tea breaks and more. Offer valid until 28 Febraury 2010 for bookings by 31 March 2010.

For more enquiries and bookings, call (+86) 755 2698 8838, or email westin.nanshan@westin.com; www.westin.com/shenzhen

Thailand: Splashing Out on Big Deals To celebrate its first birthday, the Millennium Resort Patong Phuket is giving its guests over 4,690 baht (S$200/US$138) worth of gifts, plus shopping and dining discounts. The hotel’s inaugural Anniversary Package includes free scuba diving lessons, cinema tickets and one-for-one car rentals; and 50% discount on luxurious in-house Escentika Spa. To enjoy these privileges, guests simply need to flash their hotel key cards at select retailers. The Anniversary Package offers rooms from 2,888+++ baht (S$123/US$85) per night up and to 50% discount at various shopping outlets located at the hotel or at the neighbouring Jungceylon Shopping Mall.

Offers valid until 31 October 2009. For enquiries, please check www.millenniumhotels.com

Singapore: Escape to Romance Indulge in the perfect honeymoon experience at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore. Priced at S$799/night for a Mandarin Room, S$819/night for a Mandarin Grand, and S$999/night for a City Suite, the Honeymoon Escape package includes: chauffeur-driven Mercedes limousine transfers; daily breakfast in bed; a fresh flower bouquet for the bride, a bottle of Champagne, strawberries and homemade chocolates upon arrival; a five-course Italian set dinner by Michelin-starred chef Marco Pedrelli at Dolce Vita restaurant, a relaxing spa treatment for the newlyweds in the couples suite equipped with steam rooms and Agape bath tubs.

The package requires a minimum two nights’ stay and is available until 30 December 2009.

For reservations, please call 65 6885 3030 or email mosin-reservations@mohg.com

Taiwan: Winter Exclusive For Readers!

Take advantage of Gloria Prince Hotel Taipei’s Winter Campaign promo from 1 December 2009-28 February 2010. For US$140/night on weekdays and US$127/night on weekends (Saturday, Sunday, and Monday), stay in an Executive Room and get the following: welcome fruit on arrival, complimentary daily newspaper, broadband access. Rates are inclusive of 5% tax and 10% service charge.

For enquiries, www.gloriahotel.com

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TRAVELNOTES

new rooms bulletin flight plan diary of events

New hotels are opening their doors to guests. Here are some that are ready –– or almost ready –– to provide second homes to them.

THISTLE JOHOR BAHRU

FRASER PLACE FUSIONOPOLIS Opened just a few months ago, Fraser Place Fusionopolis combine the efficient service and amenities of a hotel with personal touches that recall your own home. address: Levels 17 to 19, 3 Fusionopolis Way, Symbiosis Tower, Singapore 138633; tel (65) 6270 0800; http://fusionopolis.fraser hospitality.com Number of rooms: Not

exactly rooms—50 all-loft units with sleek modern interiors, ranging in size from 46 square metres (sqm) to 99 sqm. Each loft apartment unit comprises a living room, fully equipped kitchen, dining room on one level, with a staircase that leads up to the bedroom.

Each of the units is also equipped with a comprehensive ‘surround-sound’ home entertainment system, iPod

docking station, game console and Wi-Fi phone.

Other amenities: Guests can use the guest loungecum-sky-garden café and full facilities of the Fitness First gymnasium, including the rooftop swimming pool.

Other draws: Rochester Park restaurants and the art community at Wessex Village Square are all just a stone’s throw away.

Opened just three months ago, this hotel is billed as “high-end yet affordable” for business travellers.

Address: Jalan Sungai Chat, 80720 Johor Bahru, Malaysia; tel (607) 222 9234; www. thistle.com Number of rooms: 381 bedrooms, with 125 luxury rooms. For long-term guests, there are 19 apartment units for rent.

MICE facilities: a large event space for 650 persons.

Recreational options: Two restaurants and two bars and a

“resort-style” swimming pool Other draws: A ladies-only floor, for female travellers. The floor has 13 bedrooms with king-sized beds, two with twin beds, and 10 Hollywood Twins with a seaview. It’s serviced by female staff and has amenities such as loofahs, a yukata (a Japanese summer kimono) with matching slippers, an eye mask for tired eyes and four different kinds of tea for a relaxing evening after a hectic schedule. The hotel even provides you with a pet goldfish during your stay to keep you company.

Nespresso machines. Secretarial and butler services are available on request.

MICE facilities: There are four conference rooms located on level 18 of Tower 15.

Smallest room size can sit 25 classroom-style, while the biggest can sit 200. All rooms can be reconfigured for your needs.

Other draws: The hotel restaurant Lucas, a contemporary grill, combines classic down-to-earth western cuisine with a modern twist. Our recommendation: Try the steak.

It’s one of the best we’ve had so far in town. An al fresco bar on the first floor and a lounge on the second level of the hotel will be launched early next year.

Recreational options: Design-aficionados will have a blast with the hotel’s cunning use of space and material. Check out the Steel Sphere, which dominates the high-ceilinged lobby. Not just a design element, it also serves as the reception and check-in area.

KLAPSONS THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL New player to the boutique hotel scene in Singapore, Klapsons is a surprise in many ways. A small hotel seemingly tucked away in an annex of Tower 15 in the southern fringe of the central business district along Hoe Chiang Road, Klapsons is for the business traveller who likes staying in design-savvy hotels

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that don’t scrimp on service.

ADDRESS: 15 Hoe Chiang Road, Singapore 089316; tel (65) 6521 9030; www. klapsons.com Number of rooms: There are only 17—each uniquely designed. No two rooms are alike. For instance, designmad travellers will love the

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

shell-shaped cylindrical-style shower or an open-cube rain shower flanked with full length mirrors and colour-changing LEDs. Rooms are furnished with goose-down bedding, a customised pillow menu and Egyptian cotton sheets, aside from the de rigueur high-speed Wi-Fi, cordless phones, and

Check out the latest flight routes and services of the various airlines of the world.

CANADA LINE OPENS AHEAD OF SCHEDULE

CX AND DRAGONAIR buy more OFFSETS

Downtown Vancouver Vancouver’s brand-new Canada Line, the newest service in its existing light, mono rail system known as the Sky Train, opened on August 17, 2009, well ahead of its predicted November 2009 launch.

On the new line, it will take approximately 26 minutes for visitors and locals to travel between the Vancouver International Airport and downtown, and include three stops in downtown. Its modernlook and feel is perfectly at home in the “city of glass,” as

of Vancouver is often called.

“The Canada Line is something Vancouver has needed for a long time,” notes Kate MacLennan, Communications Manger for Tourism British Columbia in Sydney. “We now have fast, efficient, and economic way for visitors to Vancouver to transfer from YVR into the heart of the city, and get around downtown from there. It’s an absolutely fabulous addition to BC’s biggest city and will be a real asset in transporting visitors during the Olympic Games.”

TRAVELNOTES

new rooms bulletin flight plans diary of events

Currently regular fare on the Canada Line costs CDN $3.75 per person, one-way, in a regular 2-Zone ticket. In 2010 that price is predicted to rise marginally for those travelling to YVR. The early launch of the Canada Line allows for plenty of time to work out any quirks in advance of the world arriving in Vancouver in six months for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, which kick off 12 February 2010, and are projected to add to tourism figures.

Cathay Pacific Airways and Dragonair recently bought 20,000 tonnes of carbon emissions reductions from leading offset retailer JP Morgan Climate Care for the airlines’ FLY greener offset programme.

The carbon offsets were offered for sale by three projects in Mainland China: a natural gas fuel switch project in Beijing; a natural “run of river” hydro plant project in Guizhou; and a group of 20 wind turbines in Heilongjiang.

The offsets will be resold on a no-profit basis through FLY greener to passengers wishing to offset their carbon emissions.

All three projects are registered under either the Voluntary Carbon Standard or VER Plus, both internationally accepted carbon standards, and were rigorously vetted to ensure they produce real, quantifiable and permanent reductions in carbon emissions. Apart from their carbon reductions, the projects were chosen for their social and environmental benefits, such as reducing local air pollution and providing power and jobs to local communities.

“We are pleased to offer these new projects through our FLY greener programme and give passengers a change to contribute directly to emissionsreduction initiatives. This significant purchase also demonstrates our commitment to supporting projects with environmental and social benefits,” said Dominic Purvis, Cathay Pacific General Manager Environmental Affairs.

The FLY greener programme, launched in 2007, is a voluntary scheme that provides passengers the opportunity to offset the carbon emissions. The achievements of FLY greener to date include: From 2007 to March 2009 a total 30,000 tonnes of CO2 were offset through the programme; as well as individual passengers, companies based in Hong Kong, Mainland China and Taiwan have participated in the programme; in 2008, Cathay Pacific and Dragonair offset staff travel amounting to 11,814 tonnes of CO2 at an approximate cost of HK$900,000. www.cathaypacific.com and www.dragonair.com.

PHUKET REPORT SHOWS 48% OF ALL HOTEL PROJECTS DELAYED

C9’s Bill Barnett

Up to 48% of all new hotel developments in Phuket are experiencing major construction delays triggered by the global economic downturn and concerns over Thailand’s political stability, according to the Phuket Hotel Market Update Mid-Year Report released by hospitality consulting firm C9 Hotelworks. The slowdown on hotel construction sites has however not dented developers’ enthusiasm for entering the accommodation market on the island.

C9’s Managing Director Bill Barnett said despite the delays, new developments continue to enter the stream with 38 properties offering 6,231 rooms at various stages of advancement in the construction cycle.

“Non-traditional products such as hotel-managed villas and condos now represent 34% of the upcoming inventory,” Mr Barnett said.

According to the research, first-half trading for 2009 indicated tourist arrivals declined

by 14% but a combined luxury/ upscale/mid-scale occupancy rate of 60.4% produced an average room rate of US$141.

The report also noted that branded hotels outperformed non-branded properties rate-wise by 33.7%, although the nonbrand sector outperformed the brands on occupancy by 12.4%.

“Defying the trends are the luxury high-end tier properties, which operate in a favourable supply and demand segment and budget-tier hotels who

are experiencing business from price-conscious travellers looking to get cheaper and better deals with topnotch amenities,” said Mr. Barnett.

Even with a depressed year, the island’s business climate is improving. The report concluded that Phuket’s long-term outlook remained positive with brand concentration, growing airlift, and infrastructure improvements, though recovery in 2009 has effectively been written off with prospects pushed into 2010.

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TRAVELNOTES

new rooms bulletin flight plan diary of events

Check out the latest flight routes and services of the various airlines of the world.

LAN INTRODUCES FARES FROM HONG KONG TO SOUTH AMERICA

Effective immediately, LAN offers Economy Class, Premium Business Class or oneworld partner fares from Hong Kong to South America via Sydney, Australia or Auckland, New Zealand. Passengers can fly with Cathay Pacific to Auckland, then connect smoothly with LAN’s nonstop daily flight to Santiago, Chile. Aternatively, they can fly Qantas or Cathay to Sydney, from where they can connect with a nonstop Qantas flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina, three times weekly, or a daily onestop flight to Santiago with LAN. The LAN family of airlines also offers a wide range of services beyond Santiago and Buenos Aires to destinations throughout South America, using either sector fares or the popular LAN South America AirPass.

“I think that the in-flight product of LAN, and that of its oneworld partners, is second to none,” said Rodrigo Contreras, LAN’s General Manager Australia, New Zealand and Asia.

“We have also recently upgraded our long-haul product from Australia and New Zealand to South America, offering both a brand new Premium Business Class cabin, featuring flat bed seats, and a fresh Economy Class incorporating our new video on demand entertainment system in every seat,” he said.

The introduction of LAN fares from Hong Kong follows the airline’s introduction earlier this year of fares from Seoul, South Korea, to South America, flying via Australia, New Zealand or the USA.

JAL SERVES ASIA’S FIRST PET BOTTLED WINE; SECOND ECO JET LAUNCHED Japan Airlines becomes the first carrier in Asia to serve wine in PET bottles onboard its economy class. This service, first introduced early August on the Tokyo-Narita flight, will be gradually introduced on all international routes.

The wine is bottled in recyclable PET bottles that look identical to the original glass packaging but are one-seventh the weight of glass bottles the same size. The switch to using PET wine bottles onboard helps to reduce the overall weight of the aircraft, thereby lessening fuel consumption and

consequently, CO2 emissions without compromising the integrity and flavour of the wine.

Discarded PET bottles from the aircraft are also collected and recycled, which makes the use of PET bottles instead of glass bottles, a more ecological choice.

JAL introduced the first JAL Eco Jet on its domestic network in June 2008 to enhance public awareness about the environment and global warming, as well as to demonstrate JAL’s unwavering commitment to supporting environmental activities.

The second JAL Eco Jet, a Boeing 777-300ER, was launched

early August as flight JL711 from Tokyo (Narita) to Singapore. It carries on its fuselage, like the first one, a two-meter high by seven-meter wide green origami paper plane motif accompanied by the words “Sky Eco” in both Japanese and English. The JAL livery has been modified by changing the colour of the “arc of the sun” design on its tailfin from red to green. JAL plans to operate the second Eco Jet on international routes connecting Tokyo to such key destinations as London, Paris, Frankfurt and Seoul, while the first Eco Jet continues to serve domestic routes.

BRISBANE WELCOMES THAI AIRWAYS DIRECT FLIGHTS Brisbane Airport Corporation Pty Limited (BAC) welcomed the recent announcement from Thai Airways to fly direct nonstop from Brisbane to Bangkok starting 25 October 2009.

The change will see the existing Sydney stopover dropped from the route, providing passengers with more time in their destination and less time travelling.

BAC CEO and Managing Director Julieanne Alroe congratulated Thai Airways

on the direct nonstop route.

“We welcome direct services such as these because it makes it easier for Queenslanders wishing to travel overseas, and it also encourages overseas travellers to visit our sunshine state, helping to boost our tourism industry,” Ms Alroe said.

The Bangkok-BrisbaneBangkok service will also boast a new B777-200 aircraft, with improvements to Thai Airways’ onboard products

including seat back in-flight entertainment systems for all passengers and lie flat beds in business class. The flight arrives and departs Brisbane in the middle of the day so as to provide seamless connections at Bangkok to Thai’s European, Asian and Middle East services.

Brisbane Airport had more than 19 million passengers flying through the airport in the last financial year, breaking Brisbane Airport’s passenger record and defying the economic downturn.

served via current alliance partners. With more than 43,000 employees, Continental has hubs serving New York,

Houston, Cleveland and Guam, and together with its regional partners, carries approximately 67 million passengers per year.

CONTINENTAL MOVED TO T3 OF BEIJING INT’L AIRPORT Continental Airlines announced that effective end July 2009, operations of its daily non-stop service from Beijing to New York will be relocated from Terminal 2 to Terminal 3 at Beijing Capital International Airport. Passengers flying on CO88 to New York/ Newark are requested to go to Island D for check-in. Self check-in kiosks will also be available to passengers who want to select their own seats

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and print boarding passes.

“Continental is moving from Terminal 2, where we provided our daily nonstop service to New York for more than four years, to Terminal 3, in order to provide our passengers with a brand new look and even higher quality service,” said H.C. Kwok, Country Director and Chief Representative of Continental Airlines in China.

“At our new home, we will continue meeting and

| www.frequenttraveller.com.sg

exceeding the needs of passengers traveling between China and the United States.”

Continental Airlines is the world’s fifth largest airline.

Tgether with Continental Express and Continental Connection, it has more than 2,750 daily departures throughout the Americas, Europe, and Asia, serving 133 domestic and 132 international destinations. More than 750 additional points are

08

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(Until Oct 12) SINGAPORE: ARTSINGAPORE 2009

(Until Oct 25) KUALA LUMPUR: I HAVE A DATE WITH SPRING—THE MUSICAL KUALA LUMPUR PERFORMING ARTS CENTRE A Cantonese musical adaptation of the movie that won the Best Screenplay at the Hong Kong Film Awards, Dama’s musical adaption is set around the nightclub scene in the 60s to 80s. A cast of 30 led by Tan Soo Suan in the principal role of Butterfly Liu will bring the dramatic story to life in this memorable staging through high drama, exquisite music and beautiful Chinese songs. www.damaorchestra.com

SUNTEC SINGAPORE An annual showcase and in its ninth-year, ARTSingapore has exciting additions this year: the Asia International Photography Fair (AIPF), the region’s first contemporary photo-based artworks fair, and New Finds, an international forum for artists’ career development. This is also the only major art fair in Southeast Asia which attracts serious art collectors as well as regional art connoisseurs. For more information, email info@artsingapore.net or call (+65) 6235 4113.

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(Until Oct 11) SINGAPORE: STOMP 09 ESPLANADE THEATRE The international theatrical sensation is back— fresher, faster and funnier than ever, with brand new routines! With unstoppable energy and toe-tapping exuberance, STOMP takes the clutter and junk of everyday life—from boots and bins to Zippo lighters and tractor tyres—Including the kitchen sink—and transforms them into a pulsating, witty, utterly irresistible theatrical event. STOMP is a unique multiaward-winning combination of percussion, theatre, dance and comedy that consistently wows audiences and critics alike with its infectious rhythms and pure stage magic. Tickets available at SISTIC outlets

01

01

(Until Nov 04) SINGAPORE: BEYOND BORDERS IV ARTSPACE, ROYAL PLAZA ON SCOTTS Acclaimed Japanese, Korean, Filipino, and Indonesian artists intricately weave their distinctive styles in this rare four-nation art showcase. This exhibition explores the playful and thinking surrealism artworks of Filipino artists Rene Cuvos and Jonas Eslao; the expressionist and impressionist canvases of Indonesia’s Oetje and Zipit Supomo; and the intricate palettes of Korean painter Hwang Kyong and Japanese artist Ryo Naruse

VARIOUS VENUES Now on its third year, the festival is a 10-day extravaganza on the art of living well. Watch magnificent performances by top artists like Al Jarreau and Elvis Costello, learn to cook a gourmet meal from a celebrity chef, view fantastic artworks, sessions with Deepak Chopra, pamper your senses with spa sessions and yoga classes…there’s a plethora of things to do. For more information, http://singaporesunfestival.com Elvis Costello

Al Jarreau

(Until Oct 04) SINGAPORE: I WILL GO HOME DRAMA CENTRE BLACK BOX, NATIONAL LIBRARY A multi-disciplinary production inspired by The Little Prince, I Will Go Home is a theatrical exploration of flux, examining human migration and diaspora. Amid the ebb and flow of departures and arrivals, questions arise: Where is home? Within this transient state of constant flux—is home truly where the heart is?

Directed by Nick Ng in collaboration with music & sound artist Lim Koon Hiong; 8pm

“Litany” by Ren Cuvos

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(Until Oct 12) SINGAPORE: SINGAPORE SUN FESTIVAL 2009

Credit: James O’Mara

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gourmand’s corner flight plans bulletin board diary of events

travelnotes

october

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(Until 07 Jan 2010) NEW YORK: NEW AMSTERDAM: THE ISLAND AT THE CENTER OF THE WORLD SOUTH STREET SEAPORT MUSEUM As part of the celebration of the 400th anniversary of Henry Hudson’s journey to New York, this exhibition includes the original 1626 New York “birth certificate,” the works of 17th century cartographer Johannes Vingboons, who drew hundreds of maps of cities and trade ports around the world. The exhibit will showcase a number of rare documents including Peter Stuyvesant letters, Henry Hudson’s contract, rare maps, drawings, watercolour paintings and plans of Manhattan Island from the 1600s—many of which will be on display for the first time ever in the United States. For more information, www. southstreetseaportmuseum.org

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(Until Oct 18, Oct 22–Oct 25) SINGAPORE: LUST BUT NOT LEAST

THE ARTS HOUSE A uniquely Singaporean cabaret experience from the creators of Chestnuts and H is for Hantu. Dubbing themselves Broadway 4 Suakus, their group’s first foray into musical theatre is a tongue-firmly-in-cheek musical revue as they introduce you to Broadway in a very Singaporean way. Featuring songs from Chicago, Avenue Q, Cabaret, Miss Saigon, Grease 2, Into the Woods, Oklahoma, Annie Get Your Gun, Carousel and many more! Songs arranged and piano accompaniment by Julian Wong, directed by Jonathan Lim. Tickets available at The Arts House; tel (65) 6332 6919; email tickets@toph.com.sg; contact Terence Tan at tehsipeng@gmail.com or 9790 9718

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newsight+experience

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Text & Photography by PAOLO B. MALIGAYA

tle Lit

Are you a camera bug?

Do you have a vignette that you’d want to share? Send in your photo that speaks “wow”, “amazing” and it might just be the New Sight + Experience for our November 09 issue.

Send the hi-res image (300dpi, A4 size, TIFF/JPEG) to sohkeeseng@epl.com.sg by Oct 13, 2009.

From the people who brought you Fear Factor

Simulcast same week as Japan

®

©Rumiko Takahashi/Shogakukan, Yomiuri TV, Sunrise 2009

A new reality series that pushes phobias to the limit

www.axnbeyond-asia.com

www.axn-asia.com

®

Hosted by the deliciously wicked Padma Lakshmi