EAT Magazine 12-02 March|April 2008

THE ARTISAN CHEF

of

Empire

Polderside Far m

The pig in all its porcine glory is finally getting its due on BC menus After years of thinking of pork as a poor cousin to beef or chicken, many chefs are finding what other cultures have known for ages that pork is one of the most succulent and remarkably versatile meats.

From a whole spit roasted suckling pig to Asian stir fries and southern pulled pork and barbecue dishes, the pig’s new found celebrity is being embraced by top restaurants and small farm producers

On a recent trip to Vancouver I ate a brilliant ungreasy pork schnitzel at Fuel for lunch and then at dinner slices off a luscious pork leg at nearby G astropod In Victoria, Smoken Bones Cookshack has taken the suburbs by storm with its ear thy and flavourful spareribs while downtown at the aptly named PIG their $5 pulled pork sandwiches have a steady line up of takers Up Island in Qualicum Beach, Sloping Hill Farm offers several breeds of “happy pigs” raised naturally on a small farm. Back in Victoria, Choux Choux makes their fine charcuterie with this same Sloping Hills pork. In Vancouver, Nikuya Meats on Broadway near Renfrew, a small Japanese butcher shop, will sell you thin, premium slices of Snake River Farms American Kurobuta Pork We celebrate BC pork on the cover of this issue with a Slow roasted Rack of Berkshire Pork complete with a dome of finger licking, crispy crackling

Elsewhere in this issue EAT kicks off its 10th Year celebrations with a mammoth prize giveaway for par ticipating in the 10th Anniversary Reader Sur vey I can’t believe it’s been ten years since I star ted EAT to cover the local food, wine and restaurant scene! I felt strongly, as I still do, that EAT has some of the most dedicated and curious writers around and I feel very privileged to have had a front row seat to this extraordinary blossoming of the culinary ar ts in British Columbia. Please take a moment to fill in the online sur vey I’d like to know what you’d like to see within the pages of EAT in the years ahead

To cap off a great ten years, EAT has just been awarded Best Food Magazine of the Year by Urban Diner, who’s members are made up of chefs, restaurateurs, managers, ser vers, sommeliers and publicists from BC’s food and beverage community Many, many thanks for the vote of appreciation

March marks the beginning of halibut season, which is good news for fish lovers and environmentalists alike While chefs and home cooks both adore its fresh succulent taste and texture, halibut g e t s t h e t h u m b s u p f o r b e i n g a n ocean friendly choice and here’s why: * H a l i b u t i s c a u g h t u s i n g b o t t o m longlines a central fishing line with off s h o

This has minimal impact on the ocean floor habitat and doesn’t interfere w

h a b i t a t s o f o t h e r o c e a n d

P l u s i t a l s o m i n i m i z e s t h e unwanted catch of seabirds *Quotas help ensure sustainability and prevent over fishing Quotas are based on the previous year’s catch information collated with the findings from biological sur veys and population estimates

*According to the Pacific Halibut Fishery in British Columbia, the status of wild halibut is a “low” conser vation concern T h e f i s h a re re g u l a t e d b y a f i xe d exploitation rate that ensures spawning biomass is not har vested Fishing for more info on sustainability? Check out www seachoice org or www vanaqua org/oceanwise To learn more about good seafood choices log onto: www mbayaq org/cr/seafoodwatch asp

Bon appetit, Gary Hynes, Editor, EAT

EAT contributor Jennifer Danter prepares her Cilantro & Parsley Crumb Coated Halibut

A N C O U V E R

V I C T O R I A

March

10 |

Chefs' Table Society Fundraising Dinner

The Chefs’ Table Society (CTS) of BC will hold a dinner at Elixir bistro moderne at the Opus Hotel The theme of this exclusive evening is f e r m e n t a t i o n a n d c u l t u re d f o o d , f e a t u r i n g canapés and a six course dinner prepared by a collaboration of Vancouver’s top restaurants Tickets are $250 00 for six courses including wine pairings, with net proceeds going towards the creation of bursaries and scholarships for young, emerging and student chefs through the CTS and can be purchase by calling Elixir at (604) 642 0557

March 11 | Primum Familiae Vini Gala Wine

Dinner

Four Seasons Hotel, 6:30pm Reception, 7:15pm Dinner, $350. inclusive. A consor tium of pre tiquous international wineries strut their stuff with a menu preapred by Executive Chef Rafael Gonzales Proceeds benefit BC Mental Health 604 844 6714 lisa ng@fourseasons com

March 12 | Three Decades of Faiveley Series of dinners celebrating Le G avroche’s 30th anniversary 604 685 3924 legavroche ca

April 2 | California Wine Fair

California consumer wine tasting, 7:00 9:30pm, Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 800 558 CO RK (2675), calwine ca April 7 | BC Restaurant Hall of Fame Induction Gala

www bcrhof ca April 19 | Bike the Blossoms

Slow Food Vancouver, in par tnership with the Vancouver Cherry Blossom Festival, is launch ing a truly, beautiful Vancouver Spring experi ence in our city the Slow Food B I KE TH E BLOS SOMS This unique event will see par ticipants embark on a leisurely cycle along designated City bike routes to view the peak blossoming of Kanzan cherry trees, stopping along the way to e n j oy t h e c u l i n a r y p l e a s u re s o f e i g h t o f Vancouver’s unique eateries and coffee houses selected by Slow Food The routes will also include special stops showcasing Fraser Valley farmers (par tnered with local host businesses), where cyclists will be able to sample local and ar tisan foods with an oppor tunity to speak with these local producers 9 am 4 pm (this is not a race star t & finish when you like) R EGISTRA TION: 9 am 12 pm (prior online registration recommended) www slowfoodvancouver com

START PL ACE: VA N DUS E N BOTA N IC AL GARDE N, 5251 Oak St west parking lot (parking on Oak & 37th streets only) COST: F R E E TO ALL A p r i l 2 5 | Fo u r t h A n n u a l C o m m u n i t y a n d Education Symposium At the UBC Farm This symposium is intended to be a celebration of the Centre for Sustainable Food Systems’ ongoing community oriented and related proj ects, and a catalyst for strengthening and expanding the linkages between the Centre, the University, and surrounding communities Neighbours, students, practitioners, industry, NGO, university, and government representa tives are invited to attend If you plan to attend, p

March 3 | Growing Local Organic Wheat for Specialty Markets

8:30 am 4:30 pm 2nd floor, Shoal Center, 10030 Resthaven Drive, Sidney, B C Bring your lunch and your coffee cup! $50 per person

Send a cheque payable to Sharon Rempel to 3741 Metchosin Road, Victoria, B C V9C 4A8 Workshop limited to 25 people Sign up today! c a l l 2 5 0 2 9 8 1 1 3 3 www grassrootsolutions com

March 5 9 | International Dining Series

Next stop is Canada (focus is on favourites from Quebec, Alber ta beef and BC seafood) The Westin Bear Mountain Victoria Golf Resor t & S p a w w w. b e a r m o u n t a i n . c a o r c a l l 1 888 533 B EAR

March 8 | Just Desser ts

Simply Elegant Cuisine will be providing the delectables in aid of the Victoria SPC A A C h a n n e l St u d i o s www simplyelegantcuisine com

March 15 | Byron Cook

B y ro n C o o k , t h e h e a d g a rd e n e r a t S o o k e Harbour House, will share how he grows and forages the wonderful array of tasty greens and f l owe r s t h a t a p p e a r o n t h e s a l a d p l a t e s throughout the seasons at this famous restau rant Explore the many possibilities of compos ing your own organic salad with tips on growing and suggestions for unusual seed sources 9:00 a m 11:00 a m $15 00 including GST, Abkhazi G arden, 1964 Fairfield Rd , Call 598 8096 for more information and to reser ve your space

March 23 | Easter Brunch & Easter Egg Hunt

Laurel Point’s weekly Sunday Buffet Brunch invites the bunny along this Easter Sunday Special children’s room and activities. Brunch Info Line 414 6732 www laurelpoint com

March 28 | Cidermaster Series at Sea Cider Cellar Master Alistair Bell will lead the first of a series of evenings on cider appreciation and sensory analysis, explaining the nuances of tra ditional cider styles as guests pair ciders with a tempting selection of cider inspired bites 6:30 8:00pm $35 544 4824 www seacider ca

March 29 | Victoria Wine Society Year End Wrap Up and Mini Wine Festival

Glenn Barlow has turned the last event of his fiscal year into a mini Wine Festival At press time, seminars were in the works, a Rare Wines tasting and a food /wine walk about event in the evening Check www bcwineguys com for more details or call 592 8466 Ambrosia Event Centre

March 29 | Sooke Harbour House

Wine Tasting Series

Taste some of the amazing wine from the Wine Spectator Grand Award cellar. The popular series continues with Nor th vs South a look at how climate and geography has shaped the wines of Europe’s most traditional wine regions $50 per person Reser vations required 3:30 5pm 642 3421 www sookeharbourhouse com

April 5th & 6th | Taste Washington Seattle

Bell Harbor International Conference Center & Qwest Events Center Over 200 Wineries and 30 Restaurants already on board! tastewashing ton org

April 24 | 12th Annual

Phantom Dinner

Anonymous Lucky guests will enjoy a magnifi cent dinner specifically created for this night, by one of Greater Victoria’s finest restaurants You will not know, until the Phantom Reception on the night of the 24th, where you and your table of 8 and your group will be dining! Reception at O Bistro, Oswego Hotel. 6pm. Brought to you by the Victoria Branch of the BC Restaurant a n d Fo o d s e r v i c e A s s o c i a t i o n . 3 8 6 6 3 6 8 . www bcrfa com

April 26 | Ottavio's Big

Cheese Cut

Come see the kitchen boys & girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese made in the world today Watch as they crack, cut & slice their way through the world’s oldest cheeses & learn

ONGOING

Sanuk Sommelier Series of Wine

Multi course Wine Dinners at Sanuk with Pan Asian menus created by Chef Patrick Lynch (dates to be announced) More more info: 250 920 4844 or pspooner@sanukinfusion com

Ever y Tuesday at 2pm Coffee Cupping at Habit Coffee & Culture Come join the fantastic and knowledgeable staff at Habit in a formal coffee tasting, involving all the senses Learn about their specialty beans and roasts 552 Pandora Ave 294 1127

To March 20 Spring Prelude Afternoon Tea package

T

Februar y 21 March

Butchar t G ardens and Afternoon Tea $36 65 250 652 8222 www butchar tgardens com

To April 28 East Meets West Tea Tasting

Menu at The Mark The Hotel Grand Pacific’s ‘restaurant within a restaurant’ presents this inspired Tea Tasting

about the animals & families that have pro duced these beauties for generations. They will cut 5 cheeses, from the 30lb English Blue Stilton to the 225lb Organic Swiss Mountain Emmenthaler Bring the family & taste the his tory & tradition of the cheese making craft 11am Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen 2 2 7 2 O a k B a y A ve 5 9 2 4 0 8 0 www ottaviovictoria com M

"Defending our Backyard" at For t Rodd Hill, This Event is to raise awareness and the chal lenges of local food production and sustainabil ity within the region of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands Many non profit and applicable resource groups will be on hand to help pro mote these issues Educational seminars of all facets on local production, top chefs, restaura teurs, local producers and concerned citizens will also be on site for this event Live enter tainment, great local food and drinks will be there to help ensure a great day for families and all attendees Tickets are available through your local VQA s h o p s a n d I C C m e m b e r s re s t a u ra n t s www iccbc ca M a y 3 1 J u n e 7 | A G a s t

Join Chef Angelo Prosperi Por ta of Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse as he returns to Tuscany in search of more inspiration from the freshest ingredients and traditional dishes of Italy for his interactive dinners and cooking classes Vi s i t w w w a b b o n d a n z a t o s c a n a c o m o r www cooperscove com or contact Angelo at info@cooperscove com

June 6 8 | Ultimate Test Drive Weekend on Vancouver Island

J o i n E d i b l e B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a f o u n d e r E r i c Pateman on a three day culinary adventure behind the wheel of a new high performance Audi Groups are limited to 12 lucky people (6 couples). Drive on some of BC’s most scenic roads while learning about and sampling first hand BC’s best local foods The Spring tour showcases Sooke and area Other dates and l o c a t i o n s i n c l u d e A p r i l 1 1 1 3 ( O k a n a g a n ) , September 19 21 (Okanagan), October 10 12 (Tofino and area)

www edible britishcolumbia com

August 23 |

Taste of Scotland Whisky Tour

The An Quaich Scotch Malt Whisky Society of Canada, in cooperation with Perfect Planning, is putting on this 16 day tour to showcase the his tory, similarities, and differences of the finest d i s t i l l e r i e s i n t h e Low l a n d s , H i g h l a n d s , Speyside and Islands of Scotland For more information contact David Matthew 250 767

0093

October 24 | Paris to Prague

Join Victoria sommelier Stuar t Brown on an inti mate 12 day culinary and wine journey though the regions of central Europe For more infor m a t i o n c o n t a c t R i c k a t 5 9 5 1 1 8 1 o r rick@totemtravel

To the end of 2008 Celebrate 100 years of Fine Dining with The Empress To mark their 100th anniversary this year, the Empress Room will be featuring a Table D’hote Menu featuring menu items from throughout our last 100 years They will have monthly themes such as “Classics from the Past”, “ Roy a l Vi s i t s ” , “ Fa vo u r i t e s o f Fra n c i s

Rattenbury”, “Dining during the Prohibition

Years” Menus will range from $75 to $95 per person, and wine pairings will be optional Dining Reser vations at 995 4688 Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse Tuscany Tour This spring for a one week food, wine and cook ing tour www cooperscove com or toll free 1 877 642 5727

U P I S L A N D

March 15 | St Patrick's Day Celebrations

McLean's Specialty Foods will celebrate St Patrick's Day with select Irish cheeses and condiments and all things green! Live music will be provided by special guest, master piper Bill Poppy who will enter tain customers playing the Uilleann pipes, the traditional Irish bagpipes Nanaimo www mcleansfoods ca March 24 & April 28 | Bayside Wine Club Shop and stock in a relaxed environment, while s a m p l i n g w i n e s a n d e n t e r i n g

o w

n g re a t prizes Free reusable 6 bottle wine totes with purchase of 6 bottles $5 tasting fee 6:30 8pm Bayside Wine & Spirits at the Quality Resor t Bayside, Parksville 250 248 8333

April 6th | Classes at Fairburn Farm Stinging Nettle Festival A Celebration of the Spontaneous Greens of Spring! Spring Boot Camp 6 Days of E xtreme Cooking! Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat and Guesthouse www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca 250 746 4637

April 6 | McLean's 16th Anniversar y From its modest beginnings in 1992, McLean's has grown to become a major foodie stop on Vancouver Island Join them for their bir thday c e l e b ra t i o n s , t o c o n t i n u e t h ro u g h o u t A p r i l www mcleansfoods ca Saturdays | Wine Tastings at Gabriola Island Village Liquor Store Samplings of impor t and BC wines 2 5 pm at the Village Liquor Store at Folklife Village, G abriola Island www vlsgabriola com

O K A

by Shelora Sheldan

Diner Lunch, Pasta Dinner

From Duncan to Zambri’s, and a stop for a drink along the way.

Curiosity piqued, I decided to do a back to back tasting of three linguines I chose my old standby, Unico, and two Italian made versions that cost slightly higher, De Cecco and La Molisana. available at most delis and specialty foods stores. Holding them up to the light, Unico had evenly coloured strands with a thin pro file La Molisana was thicker and sturdier to the touch with a brown speckling throughout And De Cecco, the thickest and sturdiest of the bunch, had white speckling Both specialty brands use quality hard wheat, and that speckling is the result of bronze dies (the device that stamps the shape of the pasta) used in the extrusion process Industrial brands like Unico generally use Teflon coated dies for ease of production The bronze dies create more texture to the end product, which in turn allows sauces to adhere to the pasta. In addition, De Cecco and La Molisana employ a slow, low heat drying method, and only De Cecco (as far as I can confirm) has the advantage of using its own spring water That’s some pedigree

I can’t stress enough the impor tance of a large pot with lots of boiling salted water to cook the noodles in I’ve made this mistake numerous times, blindly throw ing in too much pasta, which then sticks together, creating a frustrating mess Give it lots of room to move around in This ensures even cooking, happy noodles, and most impor tant, happy diners

At Peter’s suggestion, I did not time any of them. “Don’t read the cooking instruc tions on the box,” he said “ Taste every five minutes or so ” I tasted them until they reached my preference for al dente, meaning to the tooth You don’t want mushy Once drained, I tossed them all in extra virgin olive oil and sea salt That’s the other thing drain, toss and ser ve Do not rinse your pasta You may have walked by Zambri’s when they are busy in prep mode and noticed big sheet pans of pasta cooling off on the counter

“ The reason that you do not want to rinse it is two fold,” Peter explained “First, you are washing away flavour and starch that is inherent to wheat products, and second, the pasta will be all wet and this moisture will soften the fibres of the pasta product rendering it gummy and soft ” (By the way, that pasta water can also be put to good use when you have a sauce that is too thick )

If you really need to cook ahead of time, Peter suggests that once the pasta is steaming itself dry on a sheet pan, you can apply a thin veil of oil to keep the pieces from sticking to each other “A little oil goes a long way,” he cautions “ Two to three tablespoons is ample for a 500 gram package of pasta ” Once the pasta has cooled, it can be stored refrigerated in an air tight container for a few days

Back to the tasting. The De Cecco produced a noodle with enjoyable texture it engaged the mouth La Molisana also had substance with a slightly more delicate mouth feel, and the Unico was bland and flimsy by comparison On the upside, the flimsiness made it more conducive to slurping

Curious to see whether bronze dies really made a difference in how the pasta adhered to tomato sauce, I cooked up another batch Both specialty brands embraced the sauce as promised The Unico was noncommittal; together, but hes itant to go all the way And then I overcooked a batch After 20 minutes of a rolling boil, the Unico noodles were reminiscent of those found in canned chicken soup, but the De Cecco still had chew to it. What a trooper!

Although I’m a new recruit to De Cecco, there’s essentially nothing wrong with Unico products They’re very consistent and economical and some of their shapes like Scooby Doo make killer macaroni and cheese I think of it as an old reliable friend whereas the higher quality, more ar tisanal brands are like dining with A list celebrities When you come right down to it, even at a few dollars more, pasta is still an inexpensive ingredient, one that can be enjoyed in myriad simple ways shared with people you like, celebrities or not

Peter Zambri’s Quick and Easy Tomato Sauce Make about 3 cups

One 28 ounce can whole tomatoes 1 1/2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4 to 5 fresh basil leaves Salt and pepper

The Three Linguines

Cooking pasta seems so straightforward: boil water, cook pasta until done, drain and ser ve But when you star t to take a closer look and taste at the pasta brands avail able, subtle nuances are at play that can affect the end result On a recent visit to Zambri’s, I asked Peter Zambri what he prefers to use “We use De Cecco, it’s a hard pasta,” he said “ The harder the pasta the better for restaurant use because you have to cook it and then reheat to order We also use La Molisana for an egg based pasta, and Riscossa Those are the ones that have proven to be good consistently ”

On the Road Again

Chef / Co owner Peter Zambri with pasta and quick tomato sauce

Festooned with cowboy memorabilia like guitars, antlers, taxidermy and an extensive col lection of belt buckles, the room is instantly uplifting Communal tables throughout are lace covered, some inset into nooks with fake window treatments You could well imagine you were paying a visit to the renegade faction of the Walton family Our visit took place over the holiday season where twinkling lights and baubles even on a stuffed moose head added another layer to the room’s lowbrow magnificence.

The menu is pure unadulterated home cooking breakfast, lunch and dinner with no non sense waitresses working the room with consummate efficiency While heaping platters of breakfast fare whizzed past, we settled on the Spar burger, prom ising an all beef patty with bacon and cheese

The sesame topped bun handled the ingredients well The bacon was meaty, the Cheddar perfectly melted The cook’s touch of soaking the onions first to rid them of that intense raw taste was noted and greatly appreciated There was a little char on the patty, and we hunkered down to one of the best damn burgers we’ve had in years The accompanying fries were pip ing hot and of ample gir th. The coffee was dark, thick and refills free. In shor t, perfection.

When I spoke to the owner and head cook Linda Smith a few days later, she assured me that everything is made in house: from freshly baked bread every morning to soups, gravies, sauces and her own hamburger patties Those fries were hand cut from Kennebec potatoes and the veal cutlets for the dinner for two specials are prepared by Smith and a few assis tants, seven days a week

So bid “happy trails” to those city slicker small plates menus and say “howdy” to the hon est to goodness big plates of Buckles and the Smokin Spur Diner Yee haw! Smokin’ Spur Diner, 460 Trans Canada Hwy, 250 748 7757

Orange Crushed

Over the holiday season, I was given a litre bottle of A Monteux orange flower water The water hails from Grasser, the French capital of perfumes and scents, and is made from the macerated and distilled blossoms of Seville oranges I’ve taken to splashing it on my face and neck in between bouts at the computer; its intense floral fragrance is a refreshing pick me up You can also use it to freshen up linens just add to a spritzer bottle. You might not be able to change the world, but you can at least help it smell better

The flavour tastes like its aroma: imagine eating the flower’s petal and there you have it Used sparingly, it finds its way into French and Middle Eastern desser ts And any bar tender wor th his weight in swizzle sticks will have a bottle on hand, including Chris Flett of Vancouver’s Chow restaurant A proponent of classic cocktail culture “drinks with a pedi gree,” he says Flett uses the water in the decidedly old school Ramos Gin Fizz, a cocktail created circa 1888 by Harry C Ramos in New Orleans

“I love drinks that are process driven,” states Flett, “that have a story attached to them. Ramos used to employ dozens of shaker boys at his bar, just to get the consistency right ” The shaking of the gin based drink is needed to incorporate the egg white and cream, inte gral par ts of the recipe along with lemon and lime juices and the orange flower water for a del icate perfume Flett suggests using an eyedropper to control the amount used, noting, “You don’t want it to taste like an orange creamsicle ”

The drink is shaken by three people at Chow and ser ved traditionally in a Collins glass Unfor tunately, I only have one shaker boy at my house, so we’ll be taking as long as needed

Ramos Gin Fizz

Fill a shaker with ice and add the following:

1 1/2 oz gin

1/2 oz lemon juice

1/2 oz lime juice

1/2 oz heavy cream

1 medium egg white

1 1/4 oz simple syrup

2 dashes orange flower water (use an eyedropper)

Shake until you achieve a creamy, almost meringue like texture Strain into a Collins glass and top with 2 to 3 ounces soda water Note: If you double the recipe, still use only one egg white feedback@eatmagazine ca

COOKING WITH CL A SS

Recipes from

Instructors

Institute of Culinar y Ar ts

Whenever I see a cookbook that is spiral bound I know its author is serious about the reader using the recipes inside A book bound with spiral rings is the best kind of cook book as it lies flat on the table making it easy to keep the page open.

The Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar ts, based in Vancouver near the Granville Island Market, is one of the country’s top cooking schools and attract the best instructors PIC A Founder and President Sue Singer has pulled together the best recipes from the school’s instructors to celebrate the school’s tenth anniversary Julian Bond, Executive Chef and Program Director, along with the nine other instructors offer up a range of recipes from appetizers such as Baked Mussels with Spicy Tomato Basil G arlic Butter to entrées like Togarashi Crusted Albacore Tuna, Seared Tofu and Peanut Lime Sauce

The high quality of the recipes in this book bode well not only for the students at the Institute but the population at large who will one day be the recipients of this cooking knowledge. For a copy of Cooking with Class contact the school at 1 800 416 4040.

Tender... ...and juicy.

This tender and juicy meat comes from premium, grain-fed, Canadian Pork, making it an extraordinary eating experience. Available now, exclusively at Thrifty Foods.

www.thriftyfoods.com

the Chef

of the Pacific

by Julie Pegg

From Flowerpot to Cook Pot

Spurred on by today’s culinary chant, “fresh, local, organic,” our FM columnist Julie Pegg tries her hand at planning and replanting an all edible garden on her new (and much improved) balcony.

Two years ago, 10 seasons’ wor th of trial, error and back breaking effor t but ultimate joy spiralled down the drain “Leaky” condo renovations necessitat ed stripping our building to its bones and gutting the balconies How I lamented the loss of my lush little garden that took so long to establish And how I missed planting, plucking, watering, watching and cosseting My little plot of pots had evolved into more than a hobby It was a haven Most of all I pined for the edibles In August, some sun worshippers (peppers, cukes, eggplants) liked to cool off in the bright nor th light Mid January, even a few herbs, kale and chard managed to struggle from flowerpot to cook pot to spike winter stews and add crunch to salads.

Despite the disruption and din of still ongoing restoration, I am, at last, blessed with a new deck Gone are dreary stucco and garish turquoise In their place are ear th tones, spotless glass, jazzy black railings and large stone pavers When I step outside, the occasional whiff of balmy, briny air teases the senses toward spring Seed catalogues and back issues of Sunset are strewn on the dining table and desk The chapter on green house gardening in a 1978 edition of the Illustrated Guide to G ardening in Canada still rings true today G ardenWise and Better Homes and G ardens are two new bookmarks on the Mac And Crops in Pots (Octopus Publishing, 2007), a wonderful Christmas gift from a dear friend, rekindles the gardening spirit So, with this year’s bible in hand, limit ed space and a husband’s plea to leave room for a hotshot barbecue, I plan to grow only edibles Talk about the hundred mile diet Mine’s to be a twelve step(s) program, the approximate number it takes to get from bal cony to table Star ting now

While wind whips snow into drifts on many of Canada’s balconies, our coastal terraces function like cool greenhouses If 7º Celsius (or higher) is maintained at night, cool weather crops will begin to pop up in shel tered spaces By the time you read this I should be snipping at baby lettuces, arugula, s p i n a c h a n d c h a rd , s e e d e d a c o u p l e o f months ago in easy to move pots. Terra cotta can crack with the cold Flexible plastic pots, while not as attractive, fare better Later in the season, you can put the plastic ones into terra cotta pots if you like, or you can line clay pots with garbage bags, making sure you poke holes for drainage On super wet days, plants need to go undercover to avoid d e ve l o p i n g s o d d e n ( a n d s t i n k y ) s o i l .

Oregano, marjoram and other Latin lovers have, for reasons unknown to me, thrived in my less than sun drenched microclimate No problems either with tarragon, rosemary, thyme or lavender Ditto bay leaf And corian der (Chinese parsley), much to the surprise

of many, prefers cooler places. Basil, howev er, has consistently shunned its shady home

I’ve grown tomatoes with varying success Sunstroke and blight are common enemies, but I’ve had good har vests from hear ty vari eties planted against a sun saturated wall, carefully watered (tomatoes rebel if I take more than a day or two vacation) and fed a healthy diet of nutrients. I’ve had less luck growing heirlooms more’s the pity This year I will try again using a simple soaker system (more on that later) A couple of spindly little tomatillo plants, though, did grow up (tomato's relative, needs two to propagate) and rewarded me with hundreds of offspring Along with my equally prolific jalapeño plants, I was in green salsa heaven.

Crops for Pots encourages that couples live together dwarf peas and sweet peas; red bush tomatoes and small, round yellow zuc chini; kohlrabi and shallow rooted creeping thyme; baby eggplant and tri coloured sage to name a few British author Bob Purnell assures readers that fingerling potatoes will “give a high yield of well formed, slender tubers” and that Chinese cabbage and radic chio get sexy with “shaped and textured leaves ”

Fans of berries and currants will be delight ed to know that they too can be container cultivated With luck, the hardy red currant shrub I’ve selected will produce enough fruit for making my favourite jelly I may have to net the bush to prevent greedy little beaks from nibbling the berries Purnell also claims blueberries and cranberries prefer contain ers to gardens, recommending watering with ra i n w a t e r Fo l k s w i t h s u p e r s u n n y d e c k s might try growing a Meyer lemon shrub E d i b l e f l ow e r s i n c l u d e c l ove p i n k s (dianthus), cornflowers and cheery, ever reli able violas and pansies. I’ve had great suc cess potting English marigolds and nastur tiums, though the aphids love them (nip them in the bud the minute you sight a few) Incidentally, pickled nastur tium seeds sub stitute for capers

Toss the huge empty electronics boxes, including the discarded monitor that’s been on the balcony since Christmas Store the bike elsewhere. Get rid of the bin of bottles. Hit the garden shop Talk to the staff Take a course Buy some seeds Get online (there is a ton of container garden info there) Get gar dening In a few weeks, we urban gardeners can gather stuff for salads By late summer, we will har vest peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, fennel, cucumbers and tomatoes (fingers crossed) for ratatouille, fresh salsa, gazpa cho, slaws and zesty pasta sauces Here’s to the hundred feet (or less) diet

Water Systems

Eco friendly watering systems that control the amount of water a plant receives are>

becoming increasingly popular They include self watering containers (commercial or home made), drip irrigation kits and something called the “Ear thbox ”

A self watering container, simply put, is a pot within a pot A “reser voir” pot contains water The planted pot is fed from the reser voir through a tube Rather like the pot in saucer prac tice but somewhat more sophisticated and much more efficient for large containers Should be available at most garden centres. There’s a humorous You Tube video on how to make a do it yourself container The link is www youtube com/watch?v=aZ UCxBHeq04 If the video is n

www sur viveLA com Click on the Self watering Containers link on the right hand side of the page

Drip irrigation, common among commercial growers, has now been dumbed down for domestic use This low pressure, low volume, water saving system trickles water to your plants as needed via vinyl or polyethylene pipe Digital timers can be added to control on/off watering

Soaker hoses are a form of drip irrigation. The crudest form of the soaker or drip system is a tube with small holes drilled along the sides You manually water through the tube It’s sug gested for those hard to monitor tomatoes Check out www dripirrigation ca/HowTo Star t asp feedback@eatmagazine ca The Ear thbox ® is an all in one container garden Read all about it on www ear thbox com

In honour of International Women’s Day 2008 the Listel Hotel will collaborate with Geist Magazine in The Ar t of Writing Your Life The workshop and retreat is open to all women who would love to learn about memoir writing in the company of women and words Mar y Schendlinger, Senior Editor of Geist, will inspire the ladies to find their writing voice and to find inspiration through writing J Pegg In and out of towners may fancy signing up for the full meal deal, outlined below

• “ The Ar t of Writing Your Life: A Workshop for Women” on March 8 from 1:00pm to 5:00pm;

• A single occupancy G allery Floor room for one night, Saturday March 8;

• A half bottle of wine upon arrival (to get those creative juices flowing);

• Breakfast in O'Doul's Restaurant & Bar on Sunday, March 9;

• French press coffee on the morning of March 9, delivered to your room;

• A notebook and elegant pen (to inspire);

• A copy of The Listel Hotel's own inspiring Vancouver Stories;

• A one year

My Mom used to take me to a G re e k re s t a u ra n t t h a t f e a tured belly dancing on Friday nights. It’s the only thing I remember about being five, and probably the last time I w a s g e n u i n e l y t h r i l l e d b y s o m e t h i n g i n a re s t a u ra n t that didn’t come on a plate The “enter tainment” factor is pretty negligible in our dining landscape these days, but if you’re keen on a thrill to pair w i t h d i n n e r, t r y D e n m a n’s Le g e n d a r y N o o d l e H o u s e . H e re , t h e n o o d l e m a s t e r pounds the dough, rolls it out a n d c u t s i n t o i t w i t h h i s finger tips until he finds the sweet spot After pulling it apar t into a cat’s cradle of sor ts, he stretches the dough out in several streams, twists them ver tically, slams them on the table, and then spins them again Dinner becomes a spectator spor t. Go for the almost impossibly large Tang M i a n : h a n d s p u n n o o d l e s w i t h b a m b o o , e g g a n d a t o n g u e t ra p p i n g h o t a n d sour broth At $8 25, it’s a bargain A M

2003 & 2006 International Winemaker of the Year International Wine and Spirit Competition www.peterlehmannwines.com

www.eatmagazine.ca

We’ve come a long way baby and we want to write about it.

Tang Mian at Denman's Legendar y Noodle is as fun to watch being made as

it is a pleasure to

slurp.

Tightly coiled FIDDLEHEADS are the unfurled frond tips of the fiddlehead fern These nutritious, green delicacies taste like a cross between okra, asparagus, green beans and ar tichokes, and can be used instead of asparagus or ar tichokes in recipes Fresh fiddleheads are only available from April to June Frozen fiddleheads are available year round

PATT YPAN SQUA SH is a round, slightly flat, soft shelled sum mer squash with a scalloped edge. Locally grown BABY PAT T YPAN SQUA SH have edible pale green skin and tender flesh and are almost too cute to eat

Like all baby veggies, BABY C ARROTS are sweeter and more tender than their mature counterpar ts

Spring Vegetable Fiddlehead & Morel Ragout

1/2 lb cleaned fiddleheads

1/2 lb baby pattypan squash, trimmed 1/2 lb baby carrots, trimmed

3/4 cup shelled fresh peas

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 lb. pearl onions

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

1 cup chicken broth

1/4 lb fresh morels

3 tbsp minced fresh parsley leaves

1 1/2 tbsp minced fresh mint leaves

1 large garlic clove, minced

To clean the fiddleheads, snap off the crisp g re e n f i d d l e h e a d t o p s f ro m t h e o s t r i c h f e r n s , l e a v i n g a b o u t 2 i n c h e s o f s t e m attached Rub the dry brown casings off with your hands Soak the fiddleheads in a sink half full of cold water, changing the water several times to remove grit and cas i n g p a r t i c l e s D ra i n o n p a p e r t ow e l s Fiddleheads will keep for a week in the refrigerator in a covered container

In a pot of boiling salted water, boil fid dleheads for 4 minutes until crisp tender Using a slotted spoon, transfer them into a bowl of ice and cold water to stop the cook ing process, then drain them on paper tow els Boil squash and carrots for 3 minutes until crisp tender Remove and place in ice and cold water, then drain on paper towels. Boil the peas 2 to 3 minutes until just ten der and drain Blanch pearl onions in boiling water for 1 minute, peel and remove the skins

In a large heavy skillet, combine 2 tbsp butter, onions, thyme, bay leaf, 1/4 cup of broth, and salt and pepper to taste Simmer, covered, for 5 minutes.

Wash morels thoroughly, pat dry and trim Halve them lengthwise or slice them crosswise Add morels to the mixture with 1/2 cup of the remaining broth Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes until morels are ten der Add fiddleheads, squash, carrots, and remaining 1/4 cup broth Simmer the mix ture, covered, for 1 minute. Add peas, pars ley, mint and garlic. Simmer the ragout, cov ered, for 1 minute Cut 2 tbsp butter into bits and stir into ragout until butter is just melted Discard bay leaf Season the ragout with salt and pepper

It’s time to plant GREEN PEA S so you can savour sweet freshly shelled peas, one of the most deli cious garden treats This cool season crop can be planted once the soil can be easily tilled Pea pods can be har vested within 57

days of planting FRE SH GREEN PEA S in their pods are available in local mar kets from April to June

Marble sized white, red and gold PEARL ONIONS have a mild flavour and a crisp texture They are available until the end of March, with a new crop in mid summer They can be sautéed, glazed, braised, pickled as a condiment or cooked in cream sauce as a side dish

Now is the time to plant THYME, PARSLEY, MINT and the rest of your herb garden, so you can enhance meals all spring, summer and fall Fresh herbs are available in markets year round. Some locally grown herbs begin appearing in April

Grow your own bay laurel tree and experience the fantastic taste of FRE SH BAY LEAVE S. You’ll never use dried bay leaves again once you taste the difference

The MOREL season runs from March to July These gorgeous honeycombed mushrooms have a nutty, smoky, intensely ear thy flavour They can be found near dead or dying elms, pine trees, in old apple orchards, old ash, and pines or in local markets feedback@eatmagazine ca

them raw in a salad, or briefly blanch, steam or sauté them like spinach

B.C. HOTHOUSE CHERRY TOMATOES. March is the beginning of the season for locally grown cherry tomatoes

CURLY ENDIVE The peak season for curly endive star ts in March

GIANT PAPAYA S These juicy, flavourful foot long fruits are available now

FAVA BEANS Fresh fava beans are only avail able from April to June

PINEAPPLES Available year round, their peak season is from March to June They are super sweet and juicy right now

DANDELION LEAVES. Pluck them from your lawn while they are young and tender Eat

PRICKLY PEARS The peak season ends in May CITRUS FRUIT The peak season for blood o ra n g e s , g ra p e f r u i t , o ra n g e s a n d t a n g e l o s ends in mid April

Theseproductsaremadefromproducedevotedlyharvested byvolunteersofLifeCycles'FruitTreeProject.Since1998 over150,000lbsofnutritiousfood-whichwouldhavegone towaste-hasbeenredistributedamonghomeowners, volunteers,foodbanksandcommunityorganizations. Proceedsfromproduct salesallowthecharitable projecttocontinue. Thankyou! www.lifecyclesproject.ca

A warm and cool palate sensation.

Steak Frites

To me, no item on a French bistro menu says “eat me” like steak frites. I’m a sucker for accompanying sauces, the look of herb butter melting over medium rare beef, and a stickler for good frites I enjoy the weight of a quality, sharp knife, and its aim, if not always true, is deadly emphatic. Indeed, if a good steak frites lasted all day I’d have one of the better days of my life

Here are four that have recently cut the mustard:

Bistro Pastis | 2153 West 4th | Kitsilano, Vancouver | 604 7 31 50 20 | BistroPastis.com

Pricey but perfect: a 5 oz. cut of A A A New York with a tower of frites sells steeply at $24, while an 8 oz goes for a whopping $30 The beef is nicely marbled and firm in texture; the ordered temperature is delivered bang on The accompanying peppercorn sauce is mellow and silky and doesn’t overshadow the quality of the meat

Jules Bistro | 216 Abbott St. | Gastown, Vancouver | 604 669 00 33 | JulesBistro.ca Their A A A rib eye is a little loose and overly fatty for my tastes, like a wobbly brick of flavour with a peppercorn sauce lending a helping hand Frites go limp in a hurry, and desired colour temperature can be inconsistent Never theless, at $18 for an 8 oz and $24 for a 12 oz , they remain good value options

Brasserie L’Ecole | 1715 Government St | Victoria | 250 475 6260 | Lecole ca Flawlessly prepared, Roquefor t butter topped 8 oz Alber ta sirloins sell for $24 (12 oz. for $32) and sit next to some of the best frites I’ve had anywhere: truffle oil tossed, sprinkled with Parmesan, and sidekicked by a never big enough por tion of Dijon mayo (a 10 oz New York cut goes for $29 with same)

The Smoking Dog | 1889 West 1st | Kitsilano, Vancouver | 604 7 32 8811 |

TheSmokingDog com

A nicely marbled 8 oz New York strip loin with a little fat cap on its edge (no but ter pat), robustly sauced with a veal heavy bordelaise and ser ved with crispy, gen tly seasoned frites A real contender at just $21

A M

Steak Frites: Happily ubiquitous: the steak frites at Bistro Pastis is the picture of perfection

Raw Materials

For

contact them via email: mkj@islandnet.com

Woody Harrelson, Alicia Silverstone and Demi Moore have all done it and apparently love it. “Raw food” has t r a d e d i t s w o o - w o o s t a t u s f o r s o m e t h i n g m o r e mainstream. Is it for you?

Who would have thought that one of the fastest growing culinary trends would involve turning off the stove? Previously popular only among extremists of the vegetarian persuasion, the raw food diet is now being embraced by the m a i n s t re a m h e a l t h c o n s c i o u s l o o k i n g t o improve their health and add vitality to their years The increasing interest in raw food has thankfully correlated with a new wave of cre ativity and sophistication in its prepara t i o n i t ’s n o t j u s t c e l e r y s t i c k s a n d ra w almonds anymore But just how healthy, safe and practical is “eating without heating,” and what exactly can you eat on such a diet? Let’s take a closer look.

Most raw foodists are vegan consuming a variety of whole (organic is stressed), p l a n t b a s e d f o o d s s u c h a s f r u i t s , n u t s , seeds, land and sea vegetables, sprouted beans and grains, and cold processed oils heated to no more than 112°F (by way of comparison, the boiling point of water is 175°F). A minority also includes raw dairy products in their diet Proponents believe raw food contains essential, health giving enzymes that are destroyed by cooking They claim these enzymes and the vital “life force” of raw foods increase energy, improve skin health, help digestion, reduce the risk of chronic disease and aid in weight loss

What do the exper ts say? Dieticians con cede the diet has some positive attributes it contains vir tually no saturated or trans fats, very little sodium and is chock full of vitamins A, C and E, potassium, magnesium, folic acid and fibre But according to Kitty Yung, a registered dietician with B C ’s Dial a Dietician program, “You have to plan a raw food diet very carefully because it can be dif ficult to obtain enough calcium, iron, vitamin B12, protein and calories eating strictly raw foods ” There is some scientific evidence to back up her claim A study published in the Journal of Nutrition found that a raw food diet increased levels of homocysteine (a by p ro d u c t o f p ro t e i n m e t a b o l i s m t h a t c a n increase your risk for hear t disease) due to Vitamin B12 deficiency. However, chef Cosmo

Meens, owner of Victoria’s Mo:le Restaurant and a raw food enthusiast, counters that argument this way: “If they tested a bunch of people eating the standard Nor th American diet, they’d find a lot more people with defi ciencies, multiple deficiencies in fact, than among people eating raw, living food ” As for the enzyme issue, Yung points out, “It’s true that some enzymes are inactivated when food is heated, but it doesn’t matter because the body produces its own enzymes for digestion Fur thermore,” she adds, “cooking actually makes some impor tant phytochemi cals like the lycopene in tomatoes and the beta carotene in carrots easier to absorb ” Perhaps the most debated aspect of the raw food diet is the use of raw milk While most raw foodists are vegan and shun all ani mal products, a minority drink raw milk believing pasteurization destroys enzymes, vitamins, beneficial bacteria and fatty acids a n d d e g ra d e s m i l k ’s p ro t e i n m o l e c u l e s

Unfor tunately, it’s illegal to sell raw milk in Canada (Curiously, it’s perfectly legal in Eu ro p e a n d m a n y A m e r i c a n s t a t e s ) However, some determined folks have found a rather creative way of skir ting any legal issues Gordon Watson, who helps run a “cow share” program on the Lower Mainland, explains, “If you own a dairy cow, you can use the raw milk for your own consumption; that is not illegal So we sell shares in our cows and people are then allotted so much raw milk, depending on the size of their share ” (A full share is $80 ) Watson delivers the fresh, raw milk to a drop off point in Vancouver, making it easy for city dwellers to par take in what he calls “the best beverage there is ” What about Health Canada’s warn ing that raw milk can contain potentially l e t h a l , d i s e a s e c a u s i n g b a c t e r i a ?

“Hogwash,” says Watson “ There is no evi dence that drinking raw milk from healthy, grass fed cows kept in sanitary conditions is unsafe ” It seems a lot of people agree with him he gets calls daily from health con scious consumers wanting in on the cow share program

Other raw food businesses are also seeing

Roots and Shoots Clockwise from top left: Wheatgrass, sunflower shoots, crackers (peppers, flax, seeds, veg), dates and granola, mixed shoots and win ter veg salad, buscati (soaked, dehydrated nuts, dates, seeds).

information

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

Their pop ular, monthly “living food buffets” at Moss Rock Café have been temporarily put on hold while the couple devote more of their time to coaching and health consulting Diagnosed with inva sive breast cancer in 2004, Peggy credits her diet, which is now 100 percent raw foods, with making cancer a “non issue ” Like Thompson, Cosmo Meens also credits his raw food diet (he calls it “intuitive eating”) with improving his health “I have much more energy now,” he states “I can float through the day on an even energy keel ” And a good thing too because his exper tise and innovation with raw food preparation are keeping him busy He recently ser ved as acting chef at the Raw Spirit Festival in Sedona, Arizona More than 2,500 people attended the three day festival, which is the largest of its kind on the globe His enthusiasm for what he calls “this great culinary adventure” has also led him to shift the focus of the dinner menu at Mo:le A six course raw food tasting menu is now being offered on Friday and Saturday nights, and the “oohs” and “aahs” his innovative creations elicit delight Meens “I love showing people you can prepare a fabulous Caesar salad with a living food mayonnaise And what is cool is that most of them don’t even realize there are no eggs or cheese in the salad they’re eating ” (His replacement for Parmesan is a creative mix of pine nuts, nutritional yeast and lemon juice magically transformed in a dehydrator ) His innovation with raw food doesn’t end at mock mayonnaise “I make good use of the technology available If you’ve got a good blender, dehydrator and juicer, you can whip up a gourmet selection of raw pâtés, nut and seed cheeses, crackers, flatbreads, pizzas … the ideas just feed off each other. The dehydrator allows you to condense flavours and change textures and that’s what cooking is all about And the great thing is you can do it all without heating the food and destroying its nutritional value ”

So should you swap your deep fryer and slow cooker for sprouting jars and a dehydrator? Clearly opting to follow a raw food diet is a personal choice, one not to be taken lightly But while the science behind raw food is still being debated, it’s obvious that following this dietary approach has proved beneficial for many people I personally plan to incorporate more raw, living food in my diet but I’m not ready to give up my crème brûlee just yet. Think raw can’t be fabulous? Try this delicious, versatile, “raw food mayonnaise” Cosmo Meens has graciously given us to share with EAT readers It’s wonderful in salads, mixed with sprouted legumes, or for those still eating cooked food it will “liven” up sandwiches Bon appetit! feedback@eatmagazine ca

Eating gourmet and eating healthy is a philosophy we like to promote at EAT. By choosing the best ar tisan products, hand crafted from whole foods, without pesticides or chemical enhancers results in not only the best taste possible but healthful and nutritious meal solutions. Here are three ar tisan products that can be combined to prepare a delicious pasta meal

La Quercia Organic Prosciutto Americano Green Label, made from organic pork produced by Becker Lane Pork, is the first ( a

o

l y ) o rg a n i c p ro s c i u t t o c o m m

i a l l y a

i l a b l e i

Canada and is made with Becker Lane Organic Farms pasture raised, Berkshire cross, cer tified organic pork Chopped fine and lightly fried it adds a savoury and salty contrast to a pasta dish www laquercia us

Raw Almond Mayonnaise

V A N C O U V E R

REPORTER

by Andrew Morrison

Black cod with roasted shallots in old Sherr y vinegar delights at Yew, brand new to the Four Seasons Hotel.

Terrace Restaurant in the Four Seasons came out of the gates swinging

British Columbia with its modernism and its wood, grey and blue green spectrum A stone fireplace divides the bar and lounge area from a large dining room anchored by a glassed in private room T

p

, $ 4 m i l l i o n p a c k a g e reveals one of the loveliest restaurants to open here in recent memory, and thank goodness the food plays at the same level

The over sized open kitchen is the p rov i n c e o f M i a m i b o r n c h e f Ra f a e l Gonzalez, and though his menu trends t ow a rd t h e We s t C o a s t w i t h l o c a l l y sourced miso glazed salmon and freshly shucked oysters prepped with strawber ry and sorrel mignonette, he still man ages to inser t some Latin flair in the form of fine, coriander and citrus kissed scal lop ceviche and lobster ser ved with spicy paella Every plate I tried was a knock out, though I still couldn’t help but bridle at the prices An order of honey mussels with ginger and lime cost $19, and a rack of venison plated for two set us back $82 Aged acquerello risotto might be uncommon in Vancouver restaurants, and at $27 a plate with porcini mushrooms, I don’t suppose it will gain in popularity any time soon In all fairness, though, Gonzalez and his crew are such talents that they make it all seem perfectly acceptable It’s just best to ensure you’re not the person paying the bill The black cod alone, dressed as it is in old sherry vinegar with roasted shal lots, was mor tgage wor thy, while the grain fed and crispy skinned chicken with perfectly cooked white asparagus, fingerling potatoes and mushroom marmalade was wor th every penny (both were $29)

The wine list, a careful balance between old and new world with fully 150 wines available by the glass, was a thing to behold and enjoy. Ser vice is taut and well trained (though rather sloppily dressed), and the bar knows booze It’s a rare thing for me to be so suddenly smitten by any new restaurant, especially those that spend and charge like thieves, but Yew impressed on all counts

Pied-a-Terre

Street to make way for the Canada Line (a subway from Vancouver’s waterfront to the air por t) wreaked dooming havoc on many local businesses Among the fallen was the much loved Don Don N o o d l e C a f e , a l o

d neighbourhood joint that catered to families on a budget Few tears were s h e d , h ow e ve r, a s i t s d e m i s e opened the door for restaurateurs Chris Stewar t and Andrey Durbach (of Parkside and La Buca fame) Their new restaurant, Pied a Terre, is a dark and sexy pint sizer that weighs in at just 32 seats

The look is softly lit and austerely frank with a simple black and cream palette punching out framed mirrors and photographs

The absence of a bar and an espresso machine are shored up by a value driven wine list and the presence of pastis available by the glass To squeeze out every square foot, the table set tings are pinched shoulder to shoulder If you’re out for a conspiratorial dalliance and hoping to keep your conversation on the low down side of quiet, it might prove difficult Though the jazz synth soundtrack plays at a tolerable volume, they just don’t do slow here (it’s been packed since opening day back in mid November) It may be a little loud and close >

E xecutive chef Rafael Gonzalez holding cour t in the private wine room at the Four Seasons' new Yew Restaurant + Bar.

Tender rabbit shines with minted peas and Dijon mustard sauce at Pied a Terre

for some, but it’s not boisterous: a flattering testament to how people come for the food instead of a game of “see and be seen ” The ser vice, though knowledgeable and tight, can feel a little rushed, so it’s probably a good thing our attentions are caught and held by a tight ly packaged menu of French bistro classics constructed and presented with modern flourish es

Thankfully, Durbach and his kitchen crew haven’t reworked the city bistro milieu so far as to make it unrecognizable They manage to make staid onion gratinée and tar ts stand at ease with their ubiquitousness by coming close to perfecting them and revive our erstwhile affec tions for treats like foie gras (in the form of a silky parfait), escargot and bunny This latter, a rarity in Vancouver restaurants, is ser ved with a tangy uppercut of Dijon mustard sauce that fur ther moistens the meat and a mound of mashed potatoes rounded out with minted peas. Steak frites come in several guises, from onglet and entrecôte to côte de boeuf and filet mignon, all of which are classically ser ved with frites, creamed spinach and a baked tomato These frites, sadly, are under seasoned and frozen, but the accompanying sauces are wor thy of note (par ticularly the powerful Roquefor t and mustard) The coq au vin is a must try (lay ered with rich, lingering flavours), as is the lemon tar t brulée to close For diners familiar with Durbach’s cooking, Pied a Terre provides a welcome shock of recognition The flavours are bold and in your face, but the dishes are fashioned with the kind of care one wouldn’t nor mally associate with such accessible price points. Appetizers average out to $9, while mains hover at just over $20 Por tion sizes are also on the generous side of hefty Be sure to call ahead, or you’ll be left out in the cold

Joey’s

While I’m not exactly o n t h e re c o rd a s being a big fan of chain restaurants like Earl’s and the Cactus Club, I’m not above giving them and their offspring a s w i n g a t b a t T h e s e c o n d Va n c o u ve r l o c a t i o n o f J o e y ’s , ow n e d b y t h e Fu l l e r f a m i l y (founders of Earl’s and the steak chain Saltlik), recently opened on Burrard just off the shopping s t r i p o f Ro b s o n I t ’s a m u l t i dimensional monster with sever al zones for dining, game watch ing and imbibing with friends in a sleek environment that gives off an air of contrived, semi sophistication. It feels slightly more upscale and less cookie cutter than the rest of the fami l y ’s re s t a u ra n t s , t h o u g h t h e company penchant for attractive young female ser vice staff was very evident from the moment I walked into the door (greeted as I was by a bevy of runners up in the Miss Vapid Vancouver pag eant) In fact, it appeared as if only the managers were male, a n d ra t h e r o d d l y, t h e y w e re w e a r i n g s o m e s o r t o f S e c re t S e r v i c e s t y l e c o m m u n i c a t i o n d e v i c e , c o m p l e t e w i t h c h e a p s u i t a n d r i d i c u l o u s e a r p i e c e , leading me to assume they use these to plot the over throw of our credulity

One recent visit on a game night saw me sitting at the bar drinking one of their signature beers (a pint of bland brewed by Labatt) and deciphering a menu that read as if it had been craft ed by a show of blinkered, sub urban hands press ganged in a booth at Wendy’s At the top left corner of the first page, a blurb bragged about the role of chef Chris Mills, a talented young chef who represented Canada at the Bocuse D’Or in 2001 and was once upon a time the exec utive chef at Diva, the award dripping restaurant attached to the Metropolitan Hotel He is a heavyweight, to be sure, and his presence as “VP of Culinary” is obviously designed to reas sure doubters like me On another visit, I asked the bar tender, who had been at the restau rant since day one, if she’d ever met Mills. “No, but he’s supposed to be an amazing chef!” Sadly, the food was not up to the standard I’d expect from someone with such an illustrious pedigree The “cheeseburger sliders,” little miniature burgers presented in triplicate on a white rectangular plate, were no better than the plainest of plain offerings I suffered at fair ground concession stands as a child Fish tacos were bile inspiring, as was what they were trying to pass off as salmon, a ghastly piece of farmed fish flesh that was sad to look at and a struggle to stomach A massive salad they call the “Evil Jungle” was just that: an over dressed disaster of cold noodles, sloppy mango chunks and some sor t of meat bearing a vague resemblance to what could very well have been poultry at one point in its likely clois tered life They call this dreadful stuff “new world” cuisine, a misnomer so laughable it should make us want to row back to the old

Though the room and the plates are prettily put together, the food at Joeys was a let down.

Yaletown scene, and a wel come one at that Owners Patrick Greenfield, Marnie Campbell and chef Rick Munsen (ex Bin 941 and La Terrazza) took over the Lucky Diner spot on the southern end of H a m i l t o n l a s t s u m m e r a n d h a ve turned it into something definitely wor th a visit. What was once a com paratively sterile, modern space of concrete, white walls and soaring ceilings has been transformed into a den of amber lit comfor t A wine bar splits the whole into two areas: one of the lounge ish ilk and the other for more intimate dining The best seats a re t h e p a i r a t M u n s e n’s o p e n kitchen. From here, you can watch him intensely super vise the goings on in his wine coloured chef ’s jacket as he prepares dishes that range from the absolutely to the maybe not His menu is simple with complimentary flavours geared towards wine pairing on plates sized for sharing I enjoyed his Dungeness crab cakes smar t ly zipped up with a syrup of chipotle infused citrus, and I waxed impressed for days after wolf ing a rigatoni plate heavily laced with braised shor t rib meat Dishes sit tight in the $12 $16 range, and if you’re feeling just a little peckish and want something to pair with your glass of Chardonnay, a side of lobster risotto is available for $8

It’s really too bad that the wine list is pure amateur hour The selections are whimsical and scattered, vintage years are not included on the list, less than a third of them are available by the glass and the wine “flites” appear to have been lazily put together by a high busboy not old enough to drink There is little rhyme, rhythm or reason to it at all This would be accept able in a room that doesn’t bill itself as a wine bar and hadn’t named itself after a wine tast ing practice Still, it’s early yet and these aren’t, of course, irreparable infractions Any som melier wor th his or her weight in Gewürz would be able to right things in a shift or three. However, the consistently busy room suggests two things that might slow a solution: there hasn’t been much time to accommodate change just yet; and the only people who give a damn are wine geeks and food writers (there’s something to be said for a wine bar that can beat back the plague of pretension without raising so much as a pinky)

The ser vice can be a little spotty and the atmosphere a little loud, but it manages a good time and comes endowed with a hear tbeat, rarities in a neighbourhood that can easily lean the other way

Pinkys Steakhouse

making, Pinkys (no apos trophe) is the solo work of Scott Morison, one of the founders behind the Cactus Club and Browns Social House franchises Located right between Flite and Coast on one of the least frequented blocks of Yaletown's d in ing dis tr ict , it has ne ver theles s f o u n d a n i m m e d i a t e c ro s s s e c t i o n crowd. From the outset, their public relations materials have tried to stipu late that the 3,000 square foot, 115 s e a t P i n k y s w a s n o t a " b i g b ox " restaurant, but rather an intimate orig inal The press package I received, a real reacher, tried to emphasise this is no uncer tain terms The restaurant was all about "low key glamour" and "old school opulence", ser ving "New Classic" cuisine in the form of steaks, " s n a p p y " s t a r t e r s a n d " y u m m y " d e s s e r t s I t w a s " a p p ro a c h a b l e " , "both masculine and feminine", and the

woman's steakhouse",

seduced

met with

get outside of

visit saw me

Pictures on

ishly

I

The

a

spot to hear "nostagic tunes" Finally, it was also "a

whatever that means When they asked me to par ticipate in their pre opening tasting,

arrived totally breathless What followed was a predictable affair I was

by the dark and tight layout of the room (an absolute depar ture from LK Dining Lounge, the failed restaurant it mercifully replaced) and had my low to medium expectations

the food

steaks were of good quality, cooked and seasoned as exper tly as I can

the better steakhouses, and the satellite accoutrements were at par A return

perch atop

faux cow hide stool dyed an over tly masculine shade of pink

the dressed up walls included a por trait of a pair of pug dogs and two car toon

painted women hiking up their dresses C O N T ’ D O N T H E N E X T P A G

Dungeness crab cakes flir t with plump tomatoes on a lively streak of blood orange and chipotle syrup at Flite.

Affordable, quality steaks, a flashy room and a youthful vibe pack them in at predictable Pinkys.

T r a c e y K u s i e w i c

It seems that we're in for a significant slow down in the number of restaurant open ings this year If 2007 brought in over a 100 new establishments to Vancouver, I would be surprised if 2008 saw a third of that number arrive Several of these are on our radar Finally, hopefully, maybe, Voya should finally later this month, barring dis aster It'll lie at the foot of the Loden Vancouver, a new boutique hotel that has had a few construction setbacks (they're a year behind schedule) The chef will be Marc Andre Choquette, Rob Feenie's former chef de cuisine at Lumiere, widely thought to have been indispensable in Feenie's rise to prominence (hence the anticipation). Also in hotel news, sleek little Moda has been quietly going about preparations for a wine, cheese, and charcuterie bar (no name yet) that will likely open just before this issue hits the streets The hotel has brought in a brigade of new staff, and to run the show they've picked up one of the city's hottest front of house commodities in Sebastien Le Goff, formerly the GM and sommelier at Lumiere and Feenies (quite the well spring training ground for top drawer BC restaurants) There is still no news as to what Rob Feenie will do next, but there are plenty of rumours making the rounds, one seeing him move to the Okanagan, one that sees him in the employ of the Cactus Club chain, and another that has him in the new convention center on the waterfront The people behind Chambar have opened Cafe Medina right next door together with long time Chambar ser ver Robbie Kane A first pass saw delicious Liege waffles with a variety of toppings including lavender chocolate, spiced caramel, and berry compote all delicious Lots of brick and plenty of room Folks on laptops drinking quality cof fee, a perfect fit for Crosstown loft livers and tech workers. Demolition has now begun on the Glowbal Group's new under $20 Kitsilano trattoria on West 4th (still without a

name), and they hope to open this May In Yaletown, Blue Water Cafe's new private room was a huge hit over the holiday season, and bar manager Ron Oliver is off to Kentucky this Spring to teach the locals how to make cocktails using Bourbon Down the street, the Hamilton Street Grill closed for a few days in January and opened with a lovely new bar. Just a block away, Tequila Kitchen opened and then quickly closed. The owners of the Mexican restaurant plan to retool the room, concept, and menu, and they aim to be back online this month

In G astown, the Lamplighter has reopened after a redesign by pub czars Donnelly Hospitality Management (think pool tables, an obscene number of televisions, and grog) The owners of Boneta were able to extend their lease and can stay for a few more years at 1 West Cordova (they were originally only supposed to be in the old One Restaurant & Lounge space for a year, when the building was scheduled for redevel opment) As noted in this issue's Sean Heather feature on page 34, the date for the Irish Heather move across the street has been pushed back to June (for plan details, visit their blog at newheather blogspot com), while in Blood Alley, Salt Tasting Room's new private room (aka Salt Cellar) is now open for functions.

In South Granville, British chef Warren Geraghty has been appointed the executive chef at West Restaurant He replaces David Hawkswor th who is moving on to open a room of his own in the revamped Hotel Georgia downtown (opening 2009). Also downtown, there's a new executive chef at Robson's CinCin: Francois Gagnon is in while Mark Perrier is out Chris Gonzales, formerly of Villa Del Lupo and a jolly fine food writer, has joined the CinCin team too, as one of the managers

On the Nor th Shore, chef Julio Gonzales Perini left the Beach House to redesign Sciué's menus and help them expand from West Hastings into Yaletown This 2nd location will come later this month across from Urban Fare It's clear it won't be a ban ner year new restaurants opening up every three or four days. But perhaps some breathing room to digest the glut that 2007 delivered is just what we need With Dine Out and the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival now behind us, the local food scene can relax just long enough to enjoy the coming of patio season, when the circle of restaurant life begins anew. Andrew Morrison

PINKYS CONT ’D> On the wall above the open kitchen window, ten feet of bright dressing room lights spelled out the word ROCKSTAR It's not uncommon for me to find myself in the middle of a Much Music set (as I dream of a second career as an Assistant Grip), but the youth of it all, punctuated by the impossibly sculpted decolletage of the perky staff and the greatest hits soundtrack (both trying so hard not to annoy anyone), almost proved intoxicating (again, not a male staff member visible, save for the chefs and the management) Enter the oldies menu: cheese toast, coconut prawns, 1000 Island soaked salad, onion rings, and several modes of steak from teriyaki sirloin and whiskey medallions to organic rib eye and por terhouse, all edible standards at very reasonable prices. Imagination sits at nil. Some of it was quite tasty, even the superbly soggy chili nachos, but it's more of an upscale diner than it is a downscale steakhouse, the kind of place Betty and Veronica would use to cruise for dates just a step up from Archie and Jughead Fun, to be cer tain, and very well put togeth er, but still somehow lacking in the soul and fire depar tment like the rest of the chains (there is a second location opening on Kitsilano's West 4th Avenue) Pinkys might have a slight stink of ubiquity about it, but it's still too soon to know how strong their Febreeze is If the crowded room is any indication, it's extra strength feedback@eatmagazine ca

Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa

Sitting by the sea, wrapped in seaweed, eating seafood At Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa, this is where it’s at. Their fabulous Essence of Life Signature Wrap at the Essence of Life Spa is as invigorating as it is relaxing The treatment includes a Rockweed exfo liation, a warm algae body wrap, seaweed mini facial, vichy shower (you’ll want one of these in your home once you’re done here) and hydrating laminaria (brown kelp) lotion that is worked in with a muscle easing massage The products used in this nur turing and detoxifying treatment come from the brand Sea Flora wild, organic seaweed skincare, provided by none other than ‘The Seaweed Lady’, Diane Bernard who is well known for her many culinary con tributions to local island chefs (www sea flora com)

After the pampering, it’s time to move on upstairs to the new Sushi and Sake Bar located in the Brentwood SeaGrille restaurant There you will find a vast array of gorgeous sushi and sashimi made by well seasoned head sushi chef, John Ng (a pioneer in introducing Japanese cuisine to Victoria 20 years ago), as well as Tanizaki Fuko (Four Seasons Japan) and Paul Clar The bar also holds a selection of the finest sake from Japanese and Nor th American wineries If you were not a sake lover before, you will be once you’ve tried the premium offerings here and you learn a lot too! The sake is ser ved chilled or at room temperature (not warm, which is a Nor th American trend) and is treated like a fine glass of wine, with the same series of sniffs and swirls to get the full effect. The Wind Water Man Junmai is a clear, clean, easy sip ping sake that is nice on its own, or alongside any of the food offerings.

The Pacific Rim Platter, a fine sharing plate, comes with an assor tment of premium sushi, sashimi, california roll, maki, nigiri and cone (small plate $23, large plate $45) A definite favorite is the BBL roll made from spicy shrimp, spinach, avocado, cucumber and smoked salmon a delicious explosion of spice, smoke and salt, creamy and crunch

Although seaweed is a seemingly popular theme here, the sushi bar offers something for those who aren’t quite so keen A soy wrap, made simply of soy and pressed into a thin, almost spongy wrap, can be requested with any roll and offers a softer, less chewy option while continuing to allow a healthy alternative.

While you’re sharing, you may as well add a bottle of Momokawa pearl Junmai Ginjo sake, which is a pearl colored, ear thy sake with a hint of a coconut flavor Not your average glass of sake, but no one ever claimed that Brentwood Bay Lodge would be any kind of average Rebecca Wellman

Boxo

Boxo | 1011 Blanshard St., Victoria | www.boxovictoria.com | 250 477 BOXO (2696)

The new BOXO, a noodle bar located in the 1000 block of Blanshard St is beginning to make an impression The tiny, well decorated Asian inspired space is giving the neigh boring noodles in a box type restaurants a run for their money

After months of testing and trials, Boxo’s co owner and manager Chelsea Sinclare came up with an Asian inspired (but admittedly not Asian authentic) menu that includes four appetiz ers: spring rolls, pot stickers, edamame and naan bread as well as nine main dishes The loca tion is also licensed, offering a Naked Grape chardonnay, Jackson Triggs merlot and cabernet sauvignon along with a selection of beers, ciders and Smirnoff type bottled cocktails. The ginger beef, I’m happy to say, is not your typical something encrusted, then deep fried beef, but consists of seasoned lean beef, herbs, asian greens, sprouts and is cooked in a gar

The coconut curry box was a lovely creamy mix of broad ribbon noodles, peppers, asian greens, herbs, sprouts and authentic curry spices I’m not too shy to say that this one might even become a craving

Boxo (named as such because… well… things come in boxes) offers all dishes in a mild,

lic ginger sauce ser ved over rice

Boxo’s spicy peanut box (in a bowl!)

medium or hot spice But look out even the mild spicy peanut box comes with quite a kick This dish is a delightful mix of broad ribbon noodles, asian greens, peppers, sprouts and crushed peanuts, simmered in a spicy peanut sauce It was as delicious with chicken as I’m sure it would have been with pork, beef, prawns, tofu or a combination of all of the above While each main dish comes with a recommended noodle or rice as displayed on the menu, you are free to mix and match both your proteins and carbs.

For a decent price many dishes are under $10 you can be on your way with a heaping box of this Asian Canadian comfor t food But don’t run out just yet Boxo, while headquar ters for take out, also houses 3 tables for 2 people and 3 bar style seating areas, where you can scrap the box and eat from a bowl Watch for the daily specials, scheduled to make an appearance soon Rebecca Wellman

Planet Thai Bistro

Planet Thai Bistro | 615 Johnson St., Victoria | 250 380 7878

Planet Thai Bistro the next best thing to being there Formerly Thai Bistro, the restaurant was acquired by new owners Graham and O ra w a n D i c k i n s o n o n J u l y 1 , 2 0 0 7 Graham, originally from Victoria, spent six years in Thailand where he met and married his wife, Orawan. They returned to Victoria in 1998, and Orawan spent the next seven years in the kitchen of a well known local Thai establishment But the couple’s dream was always to have their own place

Clockwise from left on first image: Gang Penang red curr y with bamboo shoots, red and green pep pers, basil with chicken, pork, beef or prawns (shown here with chicken)

Vegetable Spring roll carrots, cabbage, vermi celli noodles with plum sauce. Gai Putt Puk Met Mamuang (cashew chicken) stir fried red and green pepper, onion, carrot, cel er y, green onions, mushroom, chicken and ginger

Graham and Orawan have brought a piece of Thailand to Victoria The restau rant is intimate with seats for only about 20, but it is a warm and inviting place for diners to linger over steaming bowls of soup and curry Browsing the menu is an adventure and a quick lesson in Thai each dish is spelled using the proper Thai phonetics We began our meal with a delightfully sweet and crispy plate of Mee Krop Light, airy noodles with a mildly tangy tamarind sauce are topped off with tofu and prawns (the dish was added to the restaurant’s specials board at our request on a previous visit) The spring rolls that followed were light and crispy and, thankfully, not at all greasy We shared a bowl of Tom Kha G ai hot and sour soup with coconut milk, lemongrass, chicken and mushrooms Graham recom mended our main courses and they did not disappoint. Dtaeng Dtaek is a rich combination of hot and spicy stir fried rice noodles with broccoli, bean sprouts, carrots and chicken If you like Pad Thai (or Put Thai, the correct spelling and pronunciation), you will also like this dish A must have in any Thai restaurant is a curry dish, and curry is a Planet Thai house special ty G ang Panang, a red curry with prawns and red peppers, is topped with toasted peanuts Our final dish, Putt Grapow (stir fried onions and red peppers with basil, prawns, scallops and squid) topped off an excellent meal Each dish had distinct and unique signature flavours; all of the food was fresh, healthy and beautifully presented While in the restaurant, we chatted with two men who had travelled extensively in Thailand. They told us that some of the best food in the country is offered by the Thai street vendors Planet Thai Bistro has a Thai Street Vendor Classics menu offering dishes I’ve never seen in any other Thai restaurant With the exception of the spring rolls, I didn’t recognize any of the dishes but am cer tainly tempted by their descriptions: Lap Moo Nor theast Thai style mix of minced pork, red onions, mint, cilantro, toasted rice and lime juice, or how about Yum Woon Sen a rice noodle salad with green onions, red onion, pork, cilantro and lime juice? I’m hun gry all over again For those who don’t have the oppor tunity to travel to Thailand, a trip to Planet Thai Bistro will do nicely Highly recommended Tammy Simon

by Elizabeth Smyth

there’s the jockeying for the different flavours whole wheat cinnamon, sesame, poppy seed, multigrain and more The purists are here for a reason; these moist and chewy bagels are a memory of Montreal, of a place where people are sensual in their food choices and calories aren’t counted. The cream cheeses on offer to top the bagels are, again, created with care. Basil and garlic infuse one of the cheeses, creating a fresh, bright note on top of the creami ness “Cilantro Supreme” is another fabulous twist on plain cream cheese, adding a fragrant southwestern twist to a classic bagel and cream cheese And no Saturday morning bagel is complete without the pièce de résistance soft, melting sockeye salmon lox Again, the truth is in the details This lox is specially made for Mount Royal Bagel and to great effect; it is del icately translucent and melts like butter in your mouth The bagels are 95 cents for singles, a small tub of cream cheese is $2 95, and it doesn’t matter what the salmon costs because it’s an affordable, and non negotiable, indulgence.

Bubby Rose’s Baker y and Café

Bubby Rose’s Baker y and Café | 1022 Cook St , Victoria | 250 472 8229

At t h e b r i g h t a n d b u s y

Bubby Rose’s, the owners live by their store motto “everything matters ” Their varied m e n u b a c k s t h i s u p Ve g e t a r i a n pizza, with a name so prosaic as to invite skepticism, is a wonderful s u r p r i s e B l a c k b e a n s , c o r n a n d dried yet juicy tomatoes dance bold ly together on a thin crust, providing sensational taste. Only slightly more expensive, the salmon quiche is all a b o u t s o f t n e s s a n d l a y e r s T h e moist, creamy egg base is topped by a delicate layer of spinach, another of smoked salmon and then deco rated with a graceful fan of zucchini slices And for an ethnic twist, the soup of the day was a Thai cabbage soup Again, the simple name belied the complexity of the dish This fra grant soup is a deep umber gar nished with basil leaves and sliced t o m a t o e s a n d s e r ve d w i t h s o f t , warm rounds of French bread The first, bright taste of cabbage eases into a silky peanut flavour and then ends with a twist of spice. All of these dishes are under $5, providing even more motivation than the obvious to check out the display case of pastries I was most seduced by the teeny, tiny rugelahs, Jewish delicacies of poppy seeds spilling out of a pastry made of cream cheese and butter, rather like a dense lit tle sausage roll with a sweet surprise

Rebar

Rebar | 50 Bastion Square, Victoria | 250 361 9223

Avegetarian restaurant renowned for a reason a famous cook b oo k , hi g hl y s ea so ne d m eal

d i n

yummy create something today.

Sign up for a jewellery design

Spiced chickpea cashew hummous, cumin mustard oil, roasted tomato-ginger chutney and grilled whole wheat pita With kitchen staff (from left) Dasi Rae, Morgan Elliott, Andrew Goer tzen

i g o ra t i n g j u i c e s A d d i t i o n a l l y, many menu items are under $12 The “floo fighter” juice is the perfect choice for this time of year; I felt healthier just looking at it Carrot, apple, lemon and ginger are blended with Mystic Ridge Echinacea to create a potent and flavour ful elixir The sesame scented bowl of miso also invites an appreciative pause before dipping a spoon in This golden brown mix of two types of miso is laced with greens and topped with curlicues of green onion Floating in the middle are big, soft blocks of tofu, and lacing the bottom are wholesome buckwheat noo dles, adding a sensation of robustness to the steaming bowl of soup A final favourite of regulars is almost too beautiful to dismantle It is a brilliant deconstruction of the Indian flag and Indian flavours, though the base of the d i s h i s M i d d l e E a s t e r n T h e B o m b a y Hummus and Pita is a generous mound of cashew and chickpea hummus liberally laced with cumin, which gives the hummus a soft green shimmer Beside it is a jaunty ser ving of orange red tomato ginger chutney It is all beautifully presented on a glowing white rec tangular plate, like the centre of the Indian flag Ser ved with triangles of soft, thick pita bread, this dish is hear ty and sophisticated at the same time >

At Skanda, we empower you to discover your creative side. You can find the perfect combination of gemstones and findings to create your next jewellery piece or create something spectacular with one of our designers. No matter how creative you are — you’ll shine with us.

1033 Fort Street, Victoria Tel: (250) 475-2632 www.skanda.ca/yummy

R

Owner Valerie Engel with Jamaican Tor tano

Union Pacific

We were wondering when the Salt concept would wash up on Island shores Salt is a Vancouver non restaurant located on Blood Alley in G astown It has no chef The concept meshes wine bar with deli and the result is widely popular.

Union Pacific Owner Jim Walmsley takes the concept and puts a Victoria spin on it UP’s room is warm brick lined walls, chunky wood tables and an Old Towne ambience the menu called UP After Dark The staff is young, friendly and eager Three giant blackboards spell out the menu, each an ordering category: meat, cheese and condiments You pick what you want from each blackboard and a plate will be made up with your selections Great for sharing or solo snacking

extraordin

ary Arts

With an international reputation for excellence, Malaspina’s Culinary Arts program provides you with the skills to succeed. The program, taught by dedicated faculty with extensive professional experience, is o ered as a one year certi cate and two year diploma.

EAT attended the soft launch to sample. Many of the items on the meat (read charcuterie) blackboard are from small producer Oyama in Vancouver: kasu coppa, free range Bayonnes ham with a couple of other producers adding smoked beef tenderloin, chorizo to the offer ings From the cheese blackboard locals Fairburn Farms, Hillary’s and Moonstruck are repre sented by buffalo mozzarella, Cowichan Blue and Tomme D’Or respectively We tried them all (as well as a lush taleggio from Italy) and were impressed with the quality

Once you have chosen your meats and cheeses, you can pick three condiments from a hefty list: Babes natural honey, peach chutney, petit cornichons and others Wines (20 by the glass) come by the bottle or 2 and 4 oz pours.

A coffee house by day, a charcuterie house by night cool idea. G.Hynes

T h e E A T B U Z Z . c a f é V i c t o r i a | |

NEW

BEGINNINGS

or the first time, The Butchar t Gardens will allow weddings to be held on their gloried grounds. The annual wedding season coincides with The G ardens' Spring Prelude sea son of January 15th through to March 31st The company is making its special indoor garden of spring flowers, blossoming shrubs and trees, water features and pathways avail able for wedding photographs and ceremonies Robin Clarke, owner of The Butchar t G ardens said "We have been asked by many people over the years to hold weddings in our garden, and we feel that at this time of year one could not find a more beautiful indoor venue offering such an intimate location of great beauty Areas of our outdoor gardens will also be available for wedding photographs during this time "

The G ardens offers wedding packages for ceremonies of up to sixty people. Options include wedding photographs alone, a ceremony and reception, or a reception or dinner in The Dining Room Restaurant All packages include indoor and outdoor photo rights For those choosing to have a ceremony, a two hour rehearsal time is also included www butchar tgardens com For a very limited time, enjoy a $100 Cappuccino or $100 Espresso at Buon Amicis For $100 you will have the unique oppor tunity to sample your choice of either: 2 5 5 ounce cappucci nos O R 2 2 oz espressos Made with ‘Panama Esmeralda Especial’ one of the world’s most sought after coffees These rare coffee beans recently sold at auction for a record $130/lb Two handcrafted Swiss“ Terra Keramik” cups and saucers will be yours to take home www.buonamicis.com.

& RECOGNITION & FUNDRAISING

Top: The $15 plates come with your personalized menu hand written so you can keep track

Bottom: The three blackboards

I s l a n d

New on the region’s restaurant scene, Chef/Owner Steve Dodd of bisque [307 b 14th and Cliffe, (250) 334 8 5 6 4 , w w w b i

together an intriguing menu offering “conti nental cuisine with a west coast flair ” A A A steaks, lamb, seafood, in house made pasta “and don't forget the bisque ” Dodd’s focus is on on offering a “quiet, classical dining experience ”

Other new food venues in the area include: S u s h i Ko b o Ta k e O u t [ 1 7 7 3 C o m ox A ve , Comox, (250) 339 3222], Osaka Sushi [6 450 Ryan Rd, Cour tenay, (250) 703 0146], and P h o l i e n N o o d l e H o u s e [ 1 1 4 6 8 2 9 t h St , Cour tenay, (250) 338 8868] A late addition: St. Elmo's Bar and Grill now inhabits #4 2720 Cliffe Ave [formerly home to Rockfish Sushi]

lunch (pizza by the slice and panninis on house bread, ser ved with soup du jour) or take away Tuesday through Saturdays at Wild Flour Organic Ar tisan Baker y 221A C h u rc h St re e t i n C o m ox [ 2 5 0 8 9 0 0 0 1 7 , www.wildflourorganicbakery.com].

To the west in Cumberland, previous experience tells me she’s right when Chef Nicola Cunha at The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, www greatescape cumber land com, (250) 336 8831] says that we’ll “love the beautiful Qualicum Bay scallops seared with a lime jaggery (Indian unrefined sugar) glaze over braised greens ”

South of town, Harbour View Bistro [5575 S Island Hwy, Union Bay (250) 335 3277] keeps a very low profile, but word of mouth tells of high quality fine dining experiences

O n e o f m y f a vo u r i t e p ro t e

n

o p s , Yummies & Gyros Café [279 Puntledge Road, Cour tenay (250) 338 2299] will soon be ser v ing fruit bars and gelato

Zizi Café [441B Cliffe Avenue, (250) 334 1661] is now open late with expanded seating, and offers "tajine style" dishes lemon chick en with Moroccan rice and traditional veg etable stew over cous cous as well as many fun side additions and fresh baked desser ts

At Atlas Café [250 6th Street, Cour tenay 250 338 9838] Chef Jon Frazier, who grew up i n Roy s to n a re a , c o n t in u e s t o e vo lve t h e menu He prepares Atlas classics with consis tency and brings his flair to the most recent menu changes, including updates to the pas tas and quesadillas C h

& Grotto [477 5th Street, (250)897 0081] has just introduced a Grill menu with “a new ele gant look, lots of new items, and an expand ed winelist ” Fridays are still hopping with live music and tapas; brunch is happening on Saturdays and Sundays

The roster of events at Beyond the Kitchen Door [274B 5th St, Cour tenay, (250) 338 4404] is once again impressive Featured events include Sooke Harbour House chefs Darcy Ladret, and David Larsen's “Winter Warm Up Meal “ The Leewa rd’s Chef du Cuisine Andrew Stigant explores the diversity of West Coast flavours Michael Kono demon strates the fine ar t of sushi. Yoon Kim of T h y m e o n t h e O c e a n p re s e n t s a Ko re a n “extravaganza ” Jim Lalic takes us to shores of Greece for a traditional Greek Easter feast And Executive Chef Karen Barnaby (The Fish House in Stanley Park) presents her latest recipe compilation, Shellfish FM I call BTKD (250) 338 4404

Looking east towards Comox, good repor ts by diners indicate that the crew at Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Avenue, (250) 890 9200] is finding its feet The menu continues to evolve with a greater assor tment of choices (meat and vegetarian) and the use of more local ingredients Brunch is ser ved Saturday and Sundays Warm up in front of the wood fire and have

Gourmet five course dinners (March 6th and April 3rd), complimented by featured wines, are the seasonal news at Kingfisher Inn & Spa [4330 Island Highway, Cour tenay, (800) 663 7929]. Don’t forget Easter Sunday Brunch on March 24th!

Fur ther south, in Coombs, Kiki Spice [266 Alberni Hwy, (250) 927 5454] has expanded to include Sunday brunches, as well as its unique dining experience on alternate Fridays t h ro u g h t h e S

menus with geographico ethnic themes To

o t o www.kikispice.com. Reser vations only.

ReaL FooD [152 Morison Ave, (250) 248 0003] is a small eat in & take out restaurant in Parksville offering a wider selection of both meat & vegetarian dishes “We are in the business of making people feel better & bringing people together to enjoy life more,” say owners Dallas & Tracy Collis.

I had one of my best meals ever last year at The Landing West Coast Grill in Parksville [(250)468 2400] The architect of that meal, Chef Rich Atkins, has moved on to other chal l e n g e s , a l o n g w i t h M a n a g e r N i c k Brandstatter While I wish Nick and Rich all the best I’m going to miss them And, I’m looking forward to what Atilla Cimsit (former ly of Tigh Na Mara) will do as Director of Food and Beverages

To the nor th, in Campbell River Michelle Yasinski has launched a "Specialty Foods Cooks" series of classes at Cheddar & Co [1090A Shoppers Row (250) 830 0244] on Tuesday and Thursday evenings The classes are filling fast (some already sold out) and she’s taking wait lists for additional classes until garden season star ts.

Chef Instructor Chris Hansen at Campbell River’s Nor th Island College campus [1635 S o u t h D o g w o o d St , C a m p b e l l R i ve r 250 923 9745] is excited about a new appren ticeship model that helps students complete accreditation in a reasonable time frame “It’s the only program in BC that currently offers this innovative format,” says Hansen. With a combination of hands on training at N IC and industry experience, it also allows students to "earn while you learn” Hans Peter Meyer feedback@eatmagazine ca

T o f i n o ||

Kira Rogers

Wildside Grill, the latest addition to Tofino’s flowing stream of food destina tions opens its doors this spring in early March Chef Jesse Blake teams up with local fisherman Jeff Mikus; ‘Natural Foods by Natural Dudes’ to bring you wild local seafood, fresh organic greens from Barkley Sound and Vancouver Island poultry and meats Menu includes items such as Clayoquot Seafood Gumbo, Sloping Hills Pulled Pork Bun and Cowichan Bay Organic Chicken Burger, among many other affordable tasty items Open 7 days a week for breakfast and lunch, until dusk, locat ed beside Live to Surf and Beaches Grocery, 1180 Pacific Rim Highway

Trilogy Garden Café is hosting live local music on Saturday nights. Still focusing on fresh seafood, a tapas style menu will be offered during live performances Trilogy G arden Café is also open for catering, both on site and off site, with a great box lunch m e n u f o r y o u r To f i n o d a y t r i p s 1 0 8 4 Pa c i f i c R i m H i g h w a y 2 5 0 7 2 5 2 2 4 7 www trilogyfish net

The 6th Annual Tofino Food and Wine Festival is gearing up for its new website launch listing current events for the 2008 weekend, June 06 08. Shocasing Tofino’s culinary talent, Island pur veyors and BC wines, the 2nd Annual Grape Stomping will also take place, along with various other events www tofinofoodandwinefestival com

On March 6th, the Wickaninnish Inn will be hosting the 12th Annual G ala Dinner and Silent Auction for the Pacific Rim Whale Festival This will be Chef Tim Cuff’s first Whale Festival dinner All proceeds from this event go to suppor t the volunteer fueled Festival, a celebration of coastal life and of the migration of 20,000 grey whales past the Pacific Rim The Festival takes place March 15 23rd www pacificrimwhalefestival com With winter’s end, don’t forget to check out the Inn’s Spring Fling package, setting you up for romantic moments with break fast in bed, champagne and berries, a romantic turndown, and a surprise gift! Available March through May www wickinn com feedback@eatmagazine ca

O k a n a g a n ||

Spring? Are you there yet? Even though my Father reminds me that these Okanagan win ters are nothing like they used to be I am still dying for a daffodil Just around the cor ner now we will again be surrounded with buds and blossoms promising yet another bountiful season filled with our charmed region’s infamous fruit, veggies, and of course grapes! Ahhh, wine country lifestyle is grand Downtown Kelowna has welcomed another ethnic eatery to its growing reper toire: Everest Restaurant A traditional Indian and Nepalese establishment, owner Ram Prasad Sapkota who hails from Nepal, provides a cozy room with wonderful hospitality and fabulous fresh food Nepalese cuisine is similar to Indian; the main difference is that no cream or butter is used in the preparation of the dishes With a large menu of delicious food to choose from along with Everest’s motto of striving for ser vice that continues to grow “higher and higher” (like its namesake) this new eatery is sure become a local favorite 573 Lawrence Avenue (250) 762 7000 Take out available

La Boulangerie is a classic French gourmet café and bakery located in Kelowna’s thriving Mission/Pandosy area A family run establishment, owners Pierre Jean Mar tin and his wife Sandrine Raffault come to us from France With perfect croissants, baguettes and brioche, lunch features rich homemade soups, quiche and sandwiches en baguette eat in or take away 102 3140 Lakeshore Road (250) 762 3466 Open at 7:30 am until 5:30 pm

The Waterfront Wines group is gearing up to open their new restaurant in the Mission area of Kelowna as well I don’t know where Chef Mark Filatow finds the time between the two kitchens now, he has also expanded the takeaway arm of his business Seasons provides deli cious restaurant quality gourmet takeaway meals, dips and preser ves that are prepared in the Waterfront Wines kitchen. They offer catering for groups from 5 to 300 and have a “chef at home” ser vice where you can hire a chef to cook for you in your kitchen! Products available at Metro Liquor at 300 1500 Banks Road (250) 763 2600 or Okanagan Grocer y Ar tisan Breads (250) 862 2811 2355 Gordon Drive

Trufficulture Trees at Oyama Gardens (www oyamagardens com) is cultivating truffle trees for purchase As their website explains “We are dedicated to environmentally friendly hor ti cultural methods and believe that truffles offer a non polluting, sustainable and potentially lucrative alternative to many other forms of agriculture we believe that truffle production can play a role in suppor ting and sustaining agriculture in areas that are threatened by urban ization and industrialization” The thought of truffles growing in my neighbourhood makes me giddy! For only $40 each you can order 5 20 inoculated trees

Hester Creek has recently opened their stunning Villa on their winery in Oliver offering vis itors a luxury B&B experience set above their rolling vineyard There are five units to choose from, plus an executive suite all equipped with the necessities to accommodate a relaxing, cozy escape Each room has French doors that open up onto a covered terrace where guests can sip a glass of Hester Creek award winning wine, whist taking in the views and discussing their wine tasting route for the following day. www.hestercreek.com

Apar t from our wine success, the Okanagan is also producing other exciting products like iced ciders and beer as well as grappa and Absinthe? Yes indeed Okanagan Spirits in Vernon has again fired up his big copper pot still and released the newest spirit s: christened “Absinthe Taboo” This legendary libation was known as the “Green Monster” in the café soci ety of Paris in the 1800’s and was the drink of choice perhaps for its mysterious and perhaps hallucinogenic results following ingestion of the wormwood Flavoured with star anise, hys sop, fennel, to ser ve this (now less potent) potion, pour two par ts of ice water slowly over a half a sugar cube held in a slotted spoon into a cocktail glass that contains one par t Absinthe www.okanaganspirits.com feedback@eatmagazine.ca

By Jennifer Schell Pigott

THE VICTORIA WHISKY FESTIVAL took place January 25 27 at the Hotel Grand Pacific Since its inception this event has grown to become the premier independent whisky festival in Nor th America with numerous top tier exper ts in attendance and a consumer tasting with the world’s best represented. www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com

Celebrating 100 Years of Fine Dining

ince January of 1908, The Fairmont Empress has offered warm hospitality in an unforgettable location, on Victoria's inner harbour. Be a part of history! Commemorate the occasion with taste, join us for our monthly Centennial Celebration Menu.

For reservations or additional information please call 250-389-2727 721 Government Street, Victoria, BC, V8W 1W5

Above: Craig Johnstone who represents Highland Park has recently moved to Vancouver.

Foodie Chick Lit

Food lover and writer Kathryn McAree has discovered a genre of fiction that makes that difficult choice between reading and cooking a little easier.

Sure, I’d like to tell you I read War and Peace into the wee hours of the morning, but the reality is that I devour a lot of what’s commonly called “chick lit” in the pub lishing world mostly on Sunday afternoons in my fleece pajamas under a cozy blanket on the couch I don’t just read any chick lit, though It’s got to have food related content Please inform the publishers of the world: I’ve discovered a new genre and it’s called foodie chick lit

Chick lit as the name implies is fiction written about, and almost exclusively by, women These clever, funny stories focus on the emotion life and issues unique to modern, often single, women: intimate relationships, careers, friends, urban living Think Bridget Jones’s Diary, Candace Bushnell’s Sex in the City franchise and Sophie Kinsella’s Shopaholic books and you get the idea, although the genre encompasses a much wider range of the female experience

It’s the tone of the books that sets them apar t: stylish, irreverently funny and compul sively readable My favourite foodie chick lit author is Sarah Kate Lynch from New Zealand On a trip home from Auckland several years ago, I picked up a copy of Eating with the Angels (Black Swan, 2006) at the airpor t It’s a story about a New York restaurant critic who rises and falls through hear tbreak and romance all the way to Venice The crazi ness kept me occupied on the 14 hour flight to L A , but tragedy struck on the connecting flight to Vancouver I left the book on the plane I remembered my loss at Canada Customs, but none of the Air Canada personnel seemed to care what happened to Connie, the troubled restaurant critic, as much as I did I checked with Air Canada in Victoria, filed a repor t, but sadly they appeared unconcerned as well. It took a year before I could get my hands on another copy (at the time the book had been released only in New Zealand)

But now the world is ready for Lynch’s latest novel, The House of Peine, released in New Zealand last year and in the U.K. as The House of Joy (Doubleday, 2007). Joyous it is as three estranged sisters inherit a champagne house in France (though I bet there is con flict and tragedy looming somewhere) A recent deal struck with Lynch’s American pub lisher will bring the novel out under yet another name later this year, and it has already been optioned by a Hollywood film company Can you imagine how fun it must have been to research writing about a champagne house?

Lynch’s other foodie chick lit is just as compelling, but it’s Lynch’s humour that keeps me reading Blessed Are the Cheesemakers, a saga based in Ireland, is somewhat, uh, cheesy, but also ridiculously funny Another of her novels, By Bread Alone, brings a whole new meaning to the word deflowering or should I say deflouring? The romance begins in France and follows the star ter for decades The star ter, which gives natural life to bread, is precious to the story, the characters and to the reader. Lynch actually had eight star ters in her kitchen as she was researching this novel, and to date has managed to keep one lone sur vivor alive and baking

I had the pleasure of inter viewing Lynch when I was in New Zealand, and when I asked her to divulge her favourite foodie novel, she didn’t hesitate to lovingly tell me it was Chocolat It is the story of a young mother who arrives at a somewhat remote French vil lage with her six year old daughter and opens a small chocolaterie The film version brought fame to British author Joanne Harris, who followed that 1999 bestseller with another novel, Blackberry Wine (Harper Perennial, 2000), set in the same location in France

Although not strictly speaking chick lit because it is a memoir, Julie Powell’s bestseller Julie and Julia (Back Bay Books, 2006) was marketed much like chick lit and the tone of the writing is similar Powell was a frustrated secretarial temp living in New York and feel ing her life was over at the age of 29 when she decided to try to save the situation by cooking every one of the 524 recipes in Julia Child’s legendary Mastering the Ar t of French Cooking The blog she used to chronicle “my year of cooking dangerously” was a hit, the resulting book a bestseller She refers to Child’s book as “MtAoFC” and says reading it is like “reading pornographic bible verses,” “childishly simple and dauntingly complex, incantatory and comfor ting ” The story is a scream and will constantly leave you craving Oeufs en Cocotte, Plombières and Poulet en Gelée à l’Estragon Can’t you just imagine what those recipes stir up?

Back to fiction and now to Seattle author and classically trained chef Susan Volland, who had me in stitches with Cooking for Mr Right (New American Library, 2005), the tri als and tribulations of sous chef Kate Linden and her ex boyfriend G aston Complete with recipes, including the Pacific Nor thwest delicacy geoduck (pronounced gooey duck, it is the largest bivalve along Puget Sound and the largest burrowing clam in the world), Cooking for Mr Right will leave you turning pages and scrounging through cupboards to satisfy the cravings created while reading Susan Volland also wrote another foodie chick lit novel called Love and Meatballs. Volland tells me it’s out of print, but I managed to find a copy online through www powells com in Por tland I also ordered The Men’s Guide to the Women’s Bathroom (HarperCollins, 2007) by Jo Barrett Believe it or not, the book has some serious foodie edge to it. The main character becomes involved with an organic farmer who, undoubtedly, will change her life Powell’s has the most delectable selection of cookbooks and foodie faves both out of print and new Also try www abebooks com based in Victoria In Vancouver, Barbara Jo’s Books to Cooks has wonderful collections of food literature, food history, cookbooks and more

If you love both food and fiction, you’ll probably find the new genre of foodie chick lit deliciously satisfying

Know of more great foodie books to keep me laughing and reading? Please drop me a line at feedback@eatmagazine ca

apar t (you could ask you’re butcher to do this)

Make a bed of the rosemary sprigs in the bottom a shallow roasting pan, set the roast, rib bones pointing up, on top of the rosemary, Season and rub the meat with salt and pepper Roast the meat 10 minutes, and then lower the heat to 275˚F Slowly roast the meat at this temperature for 90 100 minutes more, or until the centre of the roast registers 160 F on an instant read meat thermometer. Set the roast on a platter, tent with foil and rest 10 minutes Discard the rosemary in the pan (it’s done its work adding aroma to the pork)

Set the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium high heat Add the cider, bring to a simmer and scrap the bottom of the pan to release any tasty brown bits Reduce the cider by half Whisk in the stock/flour mixture, return to a simmer, and simmer until a thickened sauce forms, about 3 4 minutes

Cut the rack of pork into slices between the ribs bones. Ser ve the sauce in a sauceboat alongside the meat feedback@eatmagazine ca

anuk chef Patrick Lynch has come up with a refreshing take on lunch with his Sanuk For One which includes three feature items all on one plate Not o nl

spicy and complex, at $15 its a good deal for a lunch of this quality and in such toney surroundings I tried the Sanuk For One on two separate occasions and both times it was very good. I loved the freshness and crispiness of the shredded green papaya salad dressed with cilantro, mint, spiced peanuts and lime chili vinaigrette Ditto the soft crepe (made in house) and filled with pulled pork, spiced slightly sweet; the Marinated Butter chick e n

cream sauce and ser ved with house made smoked chili and coriander flat bread with steamed basmati rice; and the vegetarian

choy, eggplant, roasted bell peppers and

finished with coconut The menu changes daily but all the

single por tions which are best shared

THE GOURMET ISLANDS

The South Island is known for the wide variety and quality of its restaurants Walking down the streets of Victoria, smells enchant you and entice you to walk through the doors and pam per your appetite Fine dining is the order of the day, and in locales such as Sooke, Metchosin, Saanich and Sidney, there is something for the epicurean in all of us Pacific Northwest cuisine combines the finest ingredients on land with the freshest items of the sea, and brings culinary masterpieces to the table with flavour, colour and exciting textures

The Gulf Islands are fast becoming a culinary and agri tourism destination In these small artisan com munities, including Salt Spring, Galiano and Pender Island, see first hand how local cheeses and wines are made The cottage industries specializing in organics, locally grown produce and the highest quality deli cacies are a mainstay in the region Come to the area and sample wood fired breads, fresh cheeses and hand made charcuterie

The Cowichan region is the libation hot spot of Vancouver Island Some of the finest wines and ciders in British Columbia are produced in this region, and several companies offer tasting tours, allowing you to sample delicious beverages, often paired with regional cheeses and cuisine The meaderies in the Cowichan area are also buzzing with activity, and offer visitors an opportunity experience the centuries old brewing technique, all the while savouring the sumptuous amber liquid

The Central Island, including Nanaimo, Ladysmith and Parksville, is known for its unusual agricultural offerings, such as emu, lamb and goat Take part in weekend cooking classes and see how to prepare organ ic produce and game Take a guided mushroom picking tour in the area, and create memorable dishes from items you’ve foraged from the damp Vancouver Island soil Culinary and food based festivals are also pop ular in the mid Island region Come get a taste of the best Nanaimo has to offer at Bite of Nanaimo, a sam ple of the area’s finest restaurants, held annually in September If you love the coast, and have a passion for fresh seafood, the North Central Island is calling Fresh seafood, particularly oysters, is a favourite among locals and visitors alike In the areas from Fanny Bay to Oyster River, many restaurants offer their interpretations of how an oyster should be served From cold, freshly shucked oysters eaten raw, to crisp deep fried oysters with a spritz of lemon and remoulade, you’ll find delectable dishes to tempt your palette

The North Island region has a flavour all its own Rich in first nations history, the seafood caught here, and their unique preparations, are a must see for any culinary adventurer Take a trip to Fort Rupert, just outside Port Hardy, and experience the traditional native methods for curing and smoking salmon Step inside a traditional big house in Port Alice and let the smoke aroma embrace you as salmon is cooked on cedar planks and smoked between cedar trellises over an open flame Take home a taste of Vancouver Island with these First Nations specialties

Perhaps your idea of perfection is having the various culinary delights prepared and served in luxurious settings In the Pacific Rim communities of Tofino and Ucluelet, world class resorts abound and 5 star din ing experiences are at your fingertips From the elegant dining rooms, watch the waters of the Pacific smash

Welcome to the Islands

against the rocks below, as you dive into regional delights such as fresh, wild salmon, sea scallops and butterflied prawns

The bounty of Vancouver Island is ripe for the picking; smell the aromas, taste the flavours, and hear the region calling out for you to experience the opulent delights of this gastronomic epicentre

For more information on the Vancouver Island region, please call 1 888 655 3483 or visit VancouverIsland travel

Start at the southern tip of Vancouver Island and work your way north as you embark on a culinary journey that is a feast for both the stomach, and the senses

RECIPE AND FOOD ST YLING BY JENNIFER DANTER

From

EAT: Let's star t with a little about you. You grew up in California and studied winemaking at University of California, Davis, which has highly respected enology and viticulture pro grams. Your early experience with wine making was at Rodney Strong in the hear t of the Napa Valley What was it like moving from the center of the wine universe to the Okanagan Valley in 1994, just a few years after the vine pull out?

SANDRA OLDFIELD: It was so much change in such a shor t amount of time Everything was new: the country, motherhood, being a wine maker and all the rest I was getting the whole package at the time, because I was getting married as well. I was leaving my country. Nobody in my family has ever left I was becoming a wine maker, which I didn't expect do right out of college, and taking on two step kids The whole thing happened within about a month I met [husband and Tinhorn Creek co owner] Kenn down at UC Davis He was studying viticulture and I was studying enology One of the things that drew me to BC was that it was so much lower in snob value It was so welcoming I just hated the idea that you need a cer tain amount of money in your jeans or a cer tain education to enjoy wine When I moved up, I was 29, and I went to the [Vancouver Playhouse International] Wine Festival that year, and half the people there were under 35. I was blown away. I'd never seen that before at a wine tasting. Everybody in the States were in their 50s and 60s I like the accessibility of wine here I don’t want to see us lose that

EAT: On the wine making front, at least at the beginning, it must have felt a bit like the Wild West What's changed for you as an Okanagan wine maker, from 1994 to 2008?

SO: I felt like you could make some good mistakes back then, because everything was so young that you could screw up a little bit and it wouldn't hur t your reputation a lot. It was that way in Napa in the 50s, when they were experimenting They would make bad wine And they were allowed to make bad wine because they weren't "Napa" yet When we star ted [in the Okanagan], you had to be on your game pretty quick, because within two or three vintages you were being judged in international competitions The pressure was high That's how the wine industry works now The new wineries coming into the [Okanagan] Valley that have mil lion dollar investments can't put out a bad wine on their first vintage That's not how it used to be Napa didn't always make Napa wines They made a lot of plonk for a long time When I came up, I felt a lot of pressure to make good wine, fast.

EAT: How else have things changes in the past decade?

SO: The industry has changed tremendously For me personally, I rely on my assistants more I've taken on more of a mentoring role, making sure my workers are happy In the early days, only I had to be happy I've learned a lot more about our land Back then, [our wines] were being tuned with a big knob Now I can star t fine tuning a little bit We're always dealing with our own grapes, which is a huge help.

EAT: It seems many wineries who buy most or all of their grapes have been put in an increasingly tough position of late, facing a sor t of mercenar y approach on the par t of some grape growers

SO: The quality of grapes in the Valley has gone up, but it hasn't gone up in propor tion to the price There are people demanding huge prices per ton, and growing way more than they should on a given acreage because they can. That will rectify itself. Wineries will smar ten up and star t paying by the acreage, instead of by the ton.

EAT: But these are boom times and there is huge demand for grapes. Do you think the sup ply and demand market will take a couple decades to sor t itself out?

SO: No Nothing ever takes a couple decades in the Okanagan It's more like a couple years Everyone has to go through a similar learning cur ve to what we did back in '94 All these new wineries think they know exactly what they're doing and know how to do it better than any one else. That's how we were too, in '94. That's why we're called Tinhorn!

doing

had

When Sandra Oldfield left her Napa Valley wine making job in 1994 to move nor th to Oliver, the southern Okanagan was still an unchar ted outpost in the wine world's hinterland Since then, she and her hus band Kenn have steered their Tinhorn Creek Winery from fledgling to mainstay on what is now known as "The Golden Mile", emerging as one of BC's most respected and readily recognised wine brands Over dinner at Vancouver's famed Le G avroche, she talked with EAT's Chris Mason Stearns about her move up from California, the Okanagan's remarkable growth, how local winemakers need to drink internationally, and made some predictions about the future

You don’t want to develop that snob attitude where you know exactly what's going on [and others don't] No one knows what's going on in the wine industry The vines change every year The weather changes every year The customer demands something different every year

EAT: What do you like to drink at home?

SO: Manny Ferreira [of Le G avroche and Senova restaurants] has me hooked on some Por tuguese table wines that I'm liking a lot I don't have that much Californian in my cellar right now We drink a lot of bubble in the summer some local, some Cava from Spain I like to drink it, but I don’t like to make it! [laughs]

Tinhorn Creek winemaker Sandra Oldfield

EAT: Do you think it's impor tant for Okanagan wine makers to drink wines from outside the Valley? To gain some international reference points?

SO: It's critical But it's hard It's not like you can go to your local liquor store in Oliver and buy any of the wines we've been talking about When you're in Vancouver you have to pick up an interest ing bottle of this or that You have to work at it, and if you're real ly busy during the year, it's hard to build your cellar and have a good international palate It's really something we have to work on We'll do blind tastings at the winery where we'll put our Pinot Gris in a line up with eight others from around the world That kind of tasting is really valuable because you know how our wines are priced (under $20 a bottle for the most par t) We really feel our competitors are other [wines] we're on the shelf with, not necessarily the winery across the way selling the same wine for $40 Our competitors are the Chilean wines, the South African wines Everyone says we're under priced We are according to our neigh bours, but we aren't according to the world market on the shelf I've always felt that the BC prices are out of whack, and that they'd star t to come down They just haven't EAT: Isn't that a product of the economics of wine making in the Valley?

SO: It's also due to the fact that BC wine drinkers are so loyal right now to BC wines that they're putting up with the high prices It's really 'in' now to be drinking BC wine, so they'll do it at any cost That may wear off at some point You can get really good wines from Alsace for way less money than what you're paying for a good Riesling or Gewurztraminer from the Okanagan How long is that loyalty going to last? Are they going to be loyal to our prices for ever? I don’t know

EAT: How do you reconcile the ar t of making wine with the business of running a winer y?

SO: They're not at all compatible I think I'm lucky in that I'm both a wine maker and an owner I know what it's like to be a wine maker who is not an owner, and there's always a feud The nice way to put it is as a "tension" between the production side and the owner side The wine making side always wants to make the best wine they can, given unlimited funds (which aren't coming out of the winemakers pocket) There are some wineries who are con tent to do that, because they never plan to turn a profit And then there are wineries like ours Our motto is to make good wine, have fun, and make money while we do it We do want to be a viable business. I think it's always at odds: the winemaker always wants better, newer, and more expensive, while the owners, if they want to make a profit, are always trying to push back at that

EAT: But you're both SO: Which I think helps, because I see both sides of it At other wineries there's an 'us and them' attitude

EAT: Let's talk about the Golden Mile. The Naramata Bench Winer y Association has been tremendously successful at branding Naramata getting that name on people's lips. What would it take to do something similar in your neighbourhood, to star t a Golden Mile Wine Association? Are there any plans for it?

SO: There's a South Okanagan Wine Association, from Oliver down to Osoyoos It star ted a year ago It's a loose association of 20 or so members They're doing their first tasting, as a group, in February. I think what's interesting about the S.O.W.A. is that it's made up of a good cross section of wineries of different sizes and ages It's not all a bunch of little tiny wineries, it's got some medium sized ones, too And Vincor is in it as well Admittedly, it's star ting slow, but I'm glad to see it

EAT: Let's talk about the future What is the Okanagan Valley going to look like in 25 years?

SO: Well I'm going to be 61, so that's what I'm going to look like [laughs] There will be more wineries, obviously. A lot of the current wineries won’t be there anymore.

EAT: What will the wine taste like?

SO: I don’t know Better, I hope I'm assuming that with the trend of the last 12 years that they'll be better I anticipate very soon you'll see more investment from American wineries Big wineries in California are looking at investing in the Okanagan I think that will add sta bility to the region People who really know what they're doing coming in and learning the viticultural nuances of the land, but also bringing with them pretty big knowledge about how to make good wines I think that will raise the bar

EAT: What about real estate concerns?

SO: I say it every year, that there's only so far you can expand in the Okanagan There's only so much land But I get proven wrong every year, because more and more land gets conver t ed to vineyards That probably shouldn't be The amount of plantable land available is tiny The majority of the Okanagan Valley is a lake, and you can't grow grapes on that. You can't go above a cer tain elevation A lot of the land is owned by First Nations A lot of the apple orchards are being ripped out on the valley floor [and replanted with grape vines] But two bad winters in a row will take care of that, and they'll go back to apple orchards

EAT: But you can understand their motivation Apple farming is a break even enterprise

SO: It is And that's why everyone is re planting But from my side of it, I come from a coun ty that used to be diversified, and now is monoculture. There are only two things growing in Sonoma right now, grapes and condos There used to be apples, squash, berries a real diversity of agriculture I miss that, and I love that in the Okanagan

New Orleanians are a hardy breed and Hurricane Katrina has not dampened the spirits of this vibrant culinary city.

by Nathan Fong Photography by John Sherlock

Mardi Gras in New Orleans, one of the most famous and revered Carnival festivals in the world, will be celebrated once again this January, some three years after Hurricane Katrina nearly destroyed the livelihood of this his toric and enter taining southern city But Big Easy folk are a hardy breed Despite the fact that a good percentage (repor ts say up to 30 percent) of the popu lation haven’t returned and many neigh bourhoods are yet to be restored, New Orleanians have persevered and are bring ing life back to the Big Easy Perhaps not to the same extent and glamour as previous eras, but they are definitely on the rebound Last August I had a chance to visit this charming, “ever so polite” city of the south. Even while experiencing close to unbear able heat and humidity, this city knows how to eat and drink, par tying in style no matter what the conditions I had never visited the Big Easy before, so I had my suspicions after heard so many effusive repor ts about the nightlife, the food and the lifestyle. From what I saw and experienced, those repor ts unfolded to be the truth From won derful, golden rich roux based jambalayas and greasy po’ boys licked with tar t pickles a n d m a y o t o 2 4 h o u r d a i q u i r i d r i ve throughs (yes, believe it!), the culinary scene is somewhat surreal. I watched as drunk and brazen groups of youths walking down famed Bourbon Street along with adults with children in tow Stripper bars and penthouse clubs vied for attention with the honourable Preser vation Hall of Jazz and main stream chain eateries like the Hard Rock Café and Mor ton’s. Perhaps the city could be seen as a cross between Disneyland, Las Vegas and Fantasy Island The 9th Ward was one of the poorest areas in the city yet was still a vibrant neighbourhood community It was hit hard est by Katrina and still sits barren and stripped of its former tarnished glory, at this point destined it seems to being simply leveled or left to become a ghost town The racial and political ramifications of the situ ation are staggering, but I reminded myself that I was here for the food

Founded in 1718 by explorers Bienville and Iber ville, New Orleans has always been a culinary destination thanks to the melting pot fusion of its settlers and inhabitants These influences created two main styles of Lo u i s i a n a c u i s i n e s : “ C re o l e” c u i s i n e ( a b l e n d o f Fre n c h , S p a n i s h , Fre n c h C a r i b b e a n , A f r i c a n a n d A m e r i c a n i n f l u ences) and “Cajun” cuisine (originally from the French speaking Acadian or “Cajun” immigrants who were “depor ted” by the English from Acadia in Canada Cajun is more rustic with provincial French style C re o l e t e n d s m o re t ow a rd s c l a s s i c a l European styles adapted to local ingredi ents feedback@eatmagazine ca

Corn & Crab Bisque from Besh Steak House at Harrah’s Casino, New Orleans

To make the bisque:

1 1/2 pounds small fresh blue crabs

2 Tbsp olive oil

1/2 pound chopped onions

1 chopped celery stalk

1/3 cup garlic cloves

1/2 cup brandy

1/2 cup all purpose flour

4 litres corn stock (recipe follows)

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

1/8 tsp red pepper flakes

750 mL heavy cream

1/2 pound jumbo lump crab or dungeness

1/2 pound fresh corn

Tabasco sauce to taste

Worchestershire sauce to taste Salt to taste

Place shells in a heavy plastic bag and crush crab shells with meat mallet Place the crushed crabs into a hot roasting pan [on the stove?]] with olive oil Let cook until all water has evaporated from the crab shells and they turn slightly golden Add onion, garlic and celery and cook until onions are translucent Add brandy and let flame up until all alcohol is cooked out Dust with flour and stir until flour is evenly distributed Add corn stock, thyme, bay leaf and red pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer for 45 minutes. Add heavy cream and cook for 15 minutes more. Puree with blender and pass through a fine strainer Add crab meat and corn Bring back to a simmer to heat corn and crab Season to taste with Tabasco, Worchestershire sauce, lemon juice, brandy and salt

To make the corn stock:

2 corn cobs (use cobs left from fresh corn in soup)

1 medium yellow onion

1 stalk celery

6 litres water

1 bay leaf

1/2 Tbsp whole black peppercorns

Chop onions and celery Add them along with the corn cobs to the pot of water Bring to simmer and add bay leaf and pep percorns Simmer slowly for 45 minutes to an hour Strain through fine strainer

Shellfish and Andouille Gumbo from 7 on Fulton

You don’t leave Louisiana without a bowl of gumbo There are various styles of gumbo, which is similar to a thick, almost stew like soup, but the impor tant factor is that they are all star ted with a slow cooked roux that turns dark golden brown to bring a rich nuttiness to the dish This simple dish is easy to prepare and is traditionally ser ved over hot steamed rice 7 on Fulton is a beautiful new restaurant ser ving contemporary Southern cuisine in a heritage building that also contains the Riverfront Hotel Chef Michael Sichel’s gumbo was cer tainly one of the best! Ser ves 6

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp canola oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

3 stalks celery, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 green pepper, finely chopped

3/4 litre fish or shrimp stock

3/4 litre chicken stock

1 Tbsp Tony’s Creole seasoning

1 Tbsp Worchestershire sauce

1/3 pound fresh okra, trimmed and cut into 1/2 inch pieces (optional)

1 doz raw oysters

1 doz raw prawns

1/2 pound cooked andouille sausage, cut into ½ inch slice

1 bay leaf

1 1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound crabmeat

Steamed hot white rice

Chopped green onions

In a heavy medium saucepan, mix together flour and 1/2 cup canola oil and stir slowly over medium low heat until the roux is dark brown Be patient as this brings out the flavour of the gumbo Do not burn! Set aside

In a separate large heavy saucepan, heat the 2 Tbsp canola oil over medium heat and add onion, celery, garlic and green pepper; sauté until soft Add the shrimp and chicken stocks Slowly whisk in the roux a small amount at a time, waiting till it dissolves until adding more Add enough roux to desired consistency Bring gumbo to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes stir ring occasionally Add seasoning, Worchestershire sauce and okra

Stir in seafood, sausage, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until seafood is cooked. Right before ser v ing, stir in crabmeat and cook for a minute to heat the crabmeat through Ser ve over cooked white rice and garnish with green onions

The new Harrah’s Hotel was the first new luxury hotel to be opened in the Big Easy after Hurricane Katrina The hotel, casi no and enter tainment complex houses seven top restaurants including James Beard award winning chef John Besh’s glam orous Besh Steak House. Although this restaurant is famous for its superb cuts of steak, this delicate fresh corn and crab soup was a sure winner Ser ves 4 to 5 people

Green Tomatoes and Crabmeat with Peach Puree

from 7 on Fulton

Having grown up on standard red tomatoes and later enriched my experience with the various hues of heirloom tomatoes, I was always intrigued about cooking with unripe green toma toes Apparently, they not only make good chutneys but marmalades and salsas, too Finally I had my chance to savour this southern favourite, which has been modernized with the addi tion of a delicate crab salad and the sweetness of a peach puree contrasted to the slight tar t ness of a crisp cornmeal coated fried tomato Ser ves 6

3 large green tomatoes (or under riped tomatoes)

1 cup buttermilk 4 ripe peaches 1 cup sugar 2 Tbsp butter

To make crab salad:

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 tsp grainy Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp honey

2 Tbsp white wine vinegar

4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 pound crabmeat

1/2 pound cornmeal

Slice tomatoes 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick (12 slices needed) and soak in buttermilk Blanch peach es in boiling water until skin peels off easily Remove and quickly place into an ice water bath, peel skin and remove pit In a heavy saucepan, add sugar to 2 cups water and bring to a simmer; add peaches and cook for 15 minutes Remove peaches, saving sugar syrup for another use, and place into a blender, add butter and puree until creamy Mix together the shallot, mustard, honey, vinegar and slowly whisk in the olive oil until well incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. In a separate mixing bowl add the crabmeat and slowly mix in enough salad dressing to season, saving any excess for another use

In a nonstick skillet, add three to four tablespoons canola oil and heat over medium high heat In a shallow mixing bowl, season cornmeal with salt and pepper and mix well Remove green tomatoes from buttermilk and dip into seasoned cornmeal, coating each slice well Add a few slices to hot oil and pan fry both sides until golden Remove tomatoes and place on a paper towel lined baking sheet to remove any excess oil, keeping warm Repeat with other tomato slices

To assemble, place a small amount of the peach puree on the base of the plate then place a fried tomato slice on top of the puree Divide seasoned crabmeat on the tomato slice and top with another fried tomato slice to form a sandwich Ser ve immediately

Fried Seafood Po’ Boy from Emeril Lagasse

Another ubiquitous creation from Louisiana is the famed po’ boy, the traditional submarine sandwich of the area It consists of meat or seafood, usually fried, and ser ved on a baguette This isn’t the traditional French style we’re familiar with, but a lighter, airier version with a very crisp crust The traditional styles are ser ved hot and usually include fried shrimp and oysters, impor tant seafood from the Louisiana waters A “dressed” seafood po’ boy includes lettuce, tomatoes and pickles, with mayonnaise and onions optional A no seafood po’ boy will also usually be accompanied by a coarse grained Creole mustard There are many stories about how the name po’ boy originated, but one stems from the New Orleans street car strike in 1929 One restaurateur, a former streetcar operator, ser ved his for mer colleagues free sandwiches, and his restaurant workers jokingly referred to the strikers as “poor boys ” Soon the sandwiches themselves took on the name, and, when shor tened by the Louisiana dialect, it became “po’ boy ” Another theory suggests the name came from the French “pour boire,” or peace offering Apparently New Orleans men, coming home late after a night on the town, would bring an oyster loaf (a whole baguette hollowed out and filled with fried oysters and condiments) as a peace offering Whatever the story, it’s still one of the sig nature foods of the southern state Ser ves 2

Vegetable oil, for deep frying

1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 soft shell crabs (optional)

1/2 pound shucked oysters

1/2 cup masa flour

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal 1 egg

2 Tbsp water

1/2 cup flour

Salt, to taste

Cayenne pepper, to taste

Tabasco sauce, to taste

2 small hoagies or French bread rolls

1/4 cup mayonnaise or tar tar sauce

1 cup shredded iceberg lettuce

6 slices tomatoes

Heat the oil in a large saucepan Season the shrimp, softshells and oysters with salt and cayenne In a shallow pan, combine masa and cornmeal Beat together the egg and water Dredge the shrimp in the flour, coating the shrimp completely, then into the egg mixture then into the cornmeal mixture, coating well Dredge the softshell and oysters in the flour, coating completely, then egg wash, then cornmeal mixture Fry the seafood in the hot oil until golden brown, stirring constantly, about 4 minutes Remove from the oil and drain on a paper lined plate Season with salt and hot sauce Split the French bread loaves in half Spread the may onnaise on both sides of the bread. Build the sandwich with the fried seafood, lettuce, and tomatoes

Optional Cooking Method: Not into deep frying? A healthier approach is to season the seafood with a creole seasoning and cover and refrigerate for 2 hours Combine 1/4 cup lemon juice with 1 Tbsp olive oil and pour over seafood, cover and refrigerate for another 30 minutes Skewer seafood and place on a greased preheated barbecue grill or under the broil er on a prepared baking sheet until cooked

Muffuletta

Muffuletta is a type of Sicilian bread, a round crusty loaf with a hollow centre similar to Italian focaccia However, the word is best known as one heck of a big sandwich chocked full of Italian cold cuts (capicola, salami, mor tadella), cheeses (provolone, Emmantaler) and the sig nature marinated “olive salad ” The sandwich originated in 1906 at the Central Grocery, a store in the French Quar ter owned by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo Today, the store still stands and is still operated by the Lupo family. >

To make the olive salad:

2/3 cup green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

2/3 cup black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup pimiento, chopped

1/4 cup drained, chopped cocktail onions

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 fillet anchovy, mashed

1 Tbsp capers

1/3 cup finely chopped parsley

1 tsp oregano

1/4 tsp black pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

1 Tbsp red wine vinegar

Mix all ingredients together Cover and allow to marinate overnight or for a minimum of 12 hours

To make the sandwich:

1 large loaf Italian bread

1/3 pound hard salami, very thinly sliced

1/3 pound prosciutto, very thinly sliced

1/3 pound provolone cheese, thinly sliced 1/3 mor tadella

Slice loaf in half horizontally and slightly scoop out insides Drizzle some of the olive oil and juices from the olive salad on each side of the open loaf Layer on cold cuts and provolone Spread on olive salad at least 3/4 inch thick Replace top half of loaf and cut into ser ving size wedges

Brioche Bread Pudding with Toffee Sauce and Whiskey Ice Cream, from Besh Steak House, Harrah’s Casino, New Orleans

I love anything smothered with the richness of a good toffee sauce, and what could be better than pairing it with a sublime whiskey infused ice cream? Traditionally, bread pudding was made with leftover French bread, but this recipe has been tweaked to include the rich, deli cately sweet flavoured egg and yeast brioche Sinfully rich, this desser t is perfect for our wet winter days! Ser ves 4 6 people.

To make brioche bread pudding:

5 cups diced brioche, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

1 litre homogenized milk

500 mL heavy cream

1 cup granulated sugar (1/2 pound)

10 large eggs

1 Tbsp vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 Tbsp Grand Marnier

Place diced brioche in a well buttered ovenproof baking dish In a separate bowl, beat togeth er all other ingredients until well combined Pour custard over brioche, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 hours

Place baking dish in a larger roasting pan and fill roasting pan with water until water level reaches halfway up baking dish This will allow the bread pudding to cook evenly and at a slow pace. Bake in a 300ºF preheated oven for about 1 1/2 hours, or until golden brown on top and firm to the touch Ser ve warm with toffee sauce and whiskey ice cream

To make toffee sauce:

1/2 pound unsalted melted butter

1/2 kg dark brown sugar

125 mL light corn syrup

250 mL heavy cream

In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter and add the brown sugar, corn syrup and heavy cream Mix very well over medium heat until the sauce comes to a boil Once a rapid boil occurs, remove from the heat and let cool at room temperature Ser ve warm over bread pudding

To make whiskey ice cream:

500 mL heavy cream

250 mL half and half

1/2 vanilla bean

3/4 cup sugar

8 large egg yolks

1/2 cup Jameson’s Irish whiskey

In a mixing bowl, combine half of the sugar and all of the egg yolks Whisk until yolks turn a pale yellow colour Cut vanilla bean pod open with a knife and scrape beans into the cream, saving the bean In a saucepan, heat the cream, half and half, the saved vanilla bean and remaining sugar until it come to a boil. Remove vanilla bean. Slowly pour the hot cream into the egg mixture while constantly whisking If you pour too fast or stop whisking, the eggs will scramble Pour mixture through a fine strainer, cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight Before churning, mix the whiskey into the ice cream base and run through an ice cream machine Before using, let chill in freezer for 8 hours to infuse flavours

TÜà|átÇ

Café Brio chef Laurence Munn and his staff are doing it for themselves—from brining their own olives, to salt-curing sardines caught from local waters to making their own butter. by Shelora Sheldan ~ photos by Rebecca Wellman

With all the talk lately of food sustainability, buying locally farmed ingre dients and ar tisanal techniques, chef Laurence Munn of Café Brio is doing more than talking He’s proving that with patience, determina tion and a whole lot of hard work, a restaurant’s kitchen is capable of “walking the talk ”

“It got to the point where I star ted looking at what we bought,” says Munn. “Most every thing we sold was purchased, and I thought, why couldn’t we make these things our selves?” Since assuming the kitchen’s reins a year ago, he has significantly cut down on deliveries from the food giants (think of those food miles), has motivated his staff to embrace the craft of cooking and has become a model of self sufficiency While many chefs on the Island and the mainland have taken the local regional oath and been inspired by the time honoured techniques of slow cooking, butchery and charcuterie, Munn is taking things to a whole new level

He star ted by building a curing room in the basement of the restaurant, then making a series of cured meats from pigs raised at Sloping Hill Farm in Qualicum Beach House made mustards and pickled vegetables quickly followed suit, as did making bread in house something that had always been purchased Pastas on the 90 seat restaurant’s menu became handmade and stuffed Buckwheat pappardelle, purple carrot agnolotti and far falle have all but eliminated the dried varieties previously purchased One dried variety remains

Meanwhile, a whole new kitchen routine was being orchestrated: the regular delivery of whole pigs and sides of beef was carefully broken down so every par t of the animal was set aside for specific uses. Fat is rendered or used as a sausage ingredient; cheeks and tongue become headcheese; ears and tails enhance stock; shoulders are confited, brined or sm o ke d; a n d o ld s c ho ol t e c h n i q u e s e m p l oy e d Le d e n s p e c k , p o r k l o i n w ra p p e d w i t h t h e b e l l y, c u re d an d s m o k e d , i s a prime example A few tools l i k e a s a u s a g e s t u f f i n g machine were purchased and the hunt was on for more quality local ingredi e n t s a n d e s s e n t i a l s l i k e rennet for making cheeses O n c e t h e c h e e s e m a k i n g began, so did the reality of an increased workload for his adopted staff

“ W h e n I f i r s t s t a r t e d here, everyone had been doing the same job for a year and taking a nap!” he s a y s “ S o , n o t e ve r yo n e was keen at first because it was a fairly big change However, when we star ted t o d o m o re , e ve r y o n e became excited because it was all things that they hadn’t done before ”

His philosophy is more p ra c t i c a l t h a n p o l i t i c a l “I’m always trying to push myself and push the guys, but not in a harsh way,” he a d d s , “ b e c a u s e I w a n t everybody to enjoy them s e l ve s s o t h e y ’l l s t a y around here and learn ”

O n e o f h i s c o o k s , Matthew Jersey, is hunched over a bag of casings for f u t u re f re s h s a u s a g e s . “You get to learn how to make different things,” says Jersey “No one does that all the cheeses, curing meats Butchery is a huge one as well I’d rather stay here late and do butchery it’s a good way to end the night, actually ” Jersey’s attitude is a breath of fresh air in a market screaming for qualified staff Munn’s kitchen team consists of six cooks, all keen to stock Brio’s larder, which is now taking on deli warehouse propor tions “Most everything on the menu is stuff we make our selves, except the Parmesan and one dried pasta that we buy,” says Munn. “We cer tainly don’t get any prepared goods anymore ” Even though things like lemons, limes and olive oil are still being ordered in, Munn’s vision is always on the future He hopes to bring in an olive oil press to make finishing oils for ser vice and a pasta machine that makes all sor ts of shapes and sizes

No task is too daunting apparently They’re now brining their own olives, salt curing sar dines caught from local waters and making their own butter Yep, butter

With a workbook always by his side, Munn begins his day around 1 or 1:30 in the after noon, often staying 12 hours to work on projects after dinner ser vice or, alternatively, com ing in on days off

He’s a quiet person and goes about his work with calm and focused determination, coax ing the best from his ingredients and from his staff “ The reason that we [chefs] are here is to cook,” he says “ The more we understand, the more we can do ”

I watch as a batch of fromage frais is drained to be later mixed with a truffle puree for an upcoming winemaker’s dinner Meanwhile, rennet is being added to a pot of whole milk for a future four pound cheddar; another holds goat’s milk for an ash ripened goat cheese In

an immense ice bath, the weekly 12 pound batch of European style butter cools down A lot of us have mistakenly made butter by overwhipping cream, but this butter is deliberate and labour intensive

Once organic 36 percent cream sits overnight with culture to sour a bit, the mixture is chilled and then churned with the aid of the kitchen Hobar t The butter is then split from the buttermilk, drained, washed in cold water, seasoned with fleur de sel, molded and cut into one pound blocks “It’s a bit of a process,” says Munn “About two days ”

The cheese he’s making is even more of a process “It’s difficult because there are so many things involved, but I’m happy with how they’re progressing Cheese is really expen sive to buy, so if we can make our own, it’s great, and it’s really popular ” From cheese curds to Cheddars using goat and cow milk, Munn has even successfully attempted bigger and more complex cheeses He’s currently aging a Gran Padano type cheese and the biggest yet, an eight pound wheel of Swiss These house made cheeses complement the existing ar tisan cheese menu

If one day is devoted to cheese, another day will be devoted to meats with the arrival of one or two whole pigs or sides of beef The restaurant now offers a separate charcuterie menu where diners can choose from 12 items salami, air dried meats, pâtés and terrines Eventually, the meats will be made available to go, sold by the 100 grams

I quickly accept a tour of the basement larder where shelves show off a colourful display celebrating the autumn har vest: crabapple jelly, quince membrillo, bread and butter pick les, white heirloom cucumber pickles with fennel, spicy green beans, pickled golden beets, spicy Hungarian hot peppers and sweet brandied pickled melon Their destiny as accom paniments to the meaty miracles aging in the adjoining curing room is cer tain. I’m intro duced to its new inhabitants and fantasize about Brio being an exquisite place to be t ra p p e d H e l l o , l a m b p ro s c i u t t o G re e t i n g s , o r a n g e c h i l e f e n n e l salami

I come back to ear th as Munn proudly points out a lamb coppa, an Italian dry curing spe cialty that typically uses pork “I’ve never seen a n y o n e m a k e t h a t before this is my own personal project, so to s p e a k ” T h e re i s a l s o lonza made from pork l o i n , a Tu s c a n s t y l e s a l a m i w i t h re d w i n e a n d f e n n e l h a n g i n g obediently And bresao la an air cured beef as well as pancetta and multiple prosciutto, in various stages of aging, t h e o l d e s t b e i n g 1 0 months “We had some that was six months old and it was wonderful!” he notes

Tw o p r i s t i n e w h e e l s of Cheddar one goat, one cow sit aging on tidy shelves along with a s i x m o n t h o l d Montasio and the newly installed Swiss Off in one corner is a white t u b h o l d i n g re d w i n e vinegar and two large b i n s c o n t a i n i n g 2 0 0 p o u n d s o f S e v i l l a n o olives sitting in a salt brine Every two weeks, the brine is changed and the salt is increased exponentially, eventually making its way into the olive

The olives, 300 pounds of them in all, hail from California, the most travelled of his ingre dients so far “I did the other 100 pounds in a lye cured method,” he says, “which is a more industrial technique ” Both batches will be ready in the spring and used anywhere the kitchen uses olives

And what about those sardines? Munn and Jersey cleaned, scaled, gutted and filleted 100 kilos, then soaked them in a brine solution before dry curing. It took five hours. Not bad. “We had races to see who could clean the fish the fastest to help pass the time, says Munn “It was fun ” The sardines are passing their time in the walk in among the usual provisions of local produce and carefully labelled jars and metal containers evidence of even more projects Like the olives, the sardines will be ready in the spring

There are obviously no half measures being employed here “Basically, I just want to put together the best product we can,” he says, “using the local people as much as possible, and be able to produce as many things ourselves ” He’s definitely succeeding

I ask Munn what advice he would give other chefs inspired to take this arduous route. “ The most impor tant aspect is the passion for the craft of cooking,” he says “You have to be willing to put in extra hours every day, come in on days off, make mistakes and learn from them And if the passion is not there then the commitment won’t be there either ”

All this extra work begs the question: “Is it ultimately wor th it? Munn answers in his char acteristically understated way “Business is up,” he replies “We’re pretty pleased It’s been a good year ” feedback@eatmagazine ca

Chef Laurie with Zach Louis prepare to break down a whole pig

Red rind = farmhouse cheddar. Orange rind = swiss in the aging process (growing eyes). Round and pyramid shapes = ash ripened goat cheese

Gar y Hynes, Editor, EAT magazine

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Anatomy of an Empire

Keeping watch

on

Sean Heather’s G astown fiefdom.

By Andrew Morrison Photo by Tracey Kusiewicz

Dr e s s e d c a s u a l l y i n light blue jeans, an argyle sweater and a long winter coat, 41 year old restaurateur

Sean Heather stands and closes a notebook computer when I arrive a few minutes late. We’re at his award winning Salt Tasting Room, and his bearded Irish face is quick to move from a big smile to a barely discernible frown and then back again as we discuss h i s s u c c e s s e s a n d f a i l u r e s ove r a lifetime working the restaurant racket

When talk turns to the equally feared a n d m u c h a n t i c i p a t e d m ove o f h i s landmark gastropub, the Irish Heather, a new enthusiasm takes over.

As he excitedly pores over blueprints f o r t h e n e w s p a c e , I ’m o n l y a l i t t l e c o m f o r t e d by t h e f a c t t h a t t h e n e w “Heather,” so abbreviated by its legions of loyal patrons over its first eleven years, will be just across the street from the old one. It’s just a slight stagger from 217 Carrall to 212 Carrall, but still, I can’t help but be a little ner vous for him and for me, a customer of long standing. The plans reveal that the change of address will be the least significant thing about the move (listening to a tape recording of our conversation, it’s me who sounds uncer tain, not him). It turns out it isn’t a m ove s o m u c h a s i t i s a c o m p l e t e metamorphosis. >

The man with a plan looks to reinvent three of his businesses this summer.

The project is slated for completion this June, and it will undoubtedly be one of the more stressful moments for Sean Heather in the history of the little empire he has car ved out in G astown Both his reputation and his past successes appear to be riding on the successful exe cution of what amounts to a roll of the dice. To my eye, the challenge is akin to untying a Gordian knot while crossing the Rubicon under the Sword of Damocles With two kids, another on the way and a tireless work ethic that appears to border on an indifference to good sense, I don’t envy him today He has his work cut out for him

Before we go any fur ther, it’s best to meet the man Today, he’s keeping gesticulations to a hands in pocket minimum and talking quickly with his unique lilt, the product of an upbringing that has travelled. His blend of an accent began with a Toronto bir th to a father from Dublin and a mother from Newfoundland Its pinched, staccato phonemes and softened vowels point to him finding his voice when he moved to Ireland at the age of five, settling in Limerick in the west (“Frank McCour t country,” he chuckles) A cosmo politan restaurant life has filled in the rest

In his early teens, Heather would spend summers at his grandparents’ house in London’s Knightsbridge. They were workaholics and would brook no “laying about,” so they found him work as a dishwasher one year and as a por ter working the graveyard shift in a block of luxury apar tments the next He had no friends in the City, so at an early age work became his most reliable companion Leaving high school in 1985, he moved to London perma nently and got a job working as a commis waiter at the famed Maxim’s de Paris. “You really had to earn your stripes there,” he recalls of the Frenc h ch a in T he I R A we re ve r y active in those days, he says, “so it wasn’t a great place to be Irish ” The English cooks would call him “f ing Paddy and f ing Mick,” and after run ning their hot plates up three floors from the kitchen he’d receive similar abuse and derision from the exclu sively French waitstaff “It was 12 months of pure hell, but I put my nose down and kept working ” By age 19, he had ser ved Sting, Freddie Mercury and a host of other celebri ties, learning the ins and outs of the hospitality business the hard way f ro m t h e g ro u n d u p “ Eve r y b o d y came to Maxim’s,” he remembers, adding, with a laugh, that he once saw Phil Collins turned away for not wearing a jacket

When he tired of the restaurant industry, he would toil at other jobs, but he always seemed to gravitate back to it. When he was hired by the Irish airline Ryanair in the early ’90s, he slipped naturally into their food depar tment as an assistant general manager until he was laid off with a “golden handshake ” Taking his settlement on a six month spree, he hitchhiked around Ireland “hanging out in restaurants and pubs” and tried to estab lish what he wanted to do with his life

Alice Waters of California’s iconic Chez Panisse was a “hero” of his; an unusual bent for an Irish lad whose friends were more interested in their favourite rugby players than anything else Heather, despite himself, was a foodie He admired how Waters and chef Jeremiah Towers were “blaz ing trails” at their Berkeley restaurant, and it was his dream to see it up close, maybe even do something similar him self

Never theless, the prospect of being an illegal alien in the United States with no money sobered him enough to steer him straight, and in a moment of youthful clarity he looked at his well worn map of the western seaboard of Nor th America and drew a direct line nor th from San Francisco until his finger landed on Vancouver Remembering his Canadian passpor t, something his mother had often said might come in handy one day, he splurged on a one way ticket to Lotusland and arrived with just $50 in his pocket Very quickly, he took a job as the graveyard super visor at Benny’s Bagels in Kitsilano, thinking he’d do a year, make some money, and then split back down south to San Francisco again to chase his dream But he stayed on For much of the mid ’90s he took on again off again catering gigs with Culinary Capers and was the lunch man ager at Cascabel, Adam Busby’s restaurant on West 1st (now the Smoking Dog) There, Heather worked with a crew

that included Michael Mameli, now the wine director at CinCin; Geoff Lundholm, the owner/chef of the Moustache Café; and Barb Philip, Canada’s first female Master of Wine When he felt he had accrued enough experience, he struck out on his own

Seeing an oppor tunity in G astown when a seedy pasta bar called the Carrall Street Café closed in early 1997, Heather pounced He borrowed money from his parents, took out a small business loan and took on a par tner (who he quickly bought out) to take it over For $147,000, the original Irish Heather was born

“G astown was the Wild West,” he remembers, and not at all wistfully “We had to circle the wagons, and sometimes bring a little Irish justice to get the drug dealers away from outside the door.” Within the first two weeks, he had a few soul searching moments when he’d ask himself “What have I done?” After two months, he was pretty cer tain he would fail But he made a commitment to weather whatever came by ser ving good beer and good food at cheap prices and be together with new wife, Erin, and younger sister Roisin “as Irish as we are ” It was a family affair, he says, “and we really knuckled down ”

Since then, the original Irish Heather has developed into G astown’s only modern icon, the pulse of a neighbourhood still trying to wriggle its way free of its reputation as Vancouver’s rough and tumble annex to the troubled down town east side Its brick walls, quality menu and authentic feel amount to a real divorce from the transparently kitschy and false “Plastic Paddy” pubs that still continue to plague the new world, a fact that has been inspiring enough to

lar destination spots in the city

That summer also saw the debut of Fetch, a por table hot dog car t that trolled the corner of Water and Abbott in G astown, selling top quality franks with unor thodox condi ments like chipotle ketchup and Piccalilli relish Later that winter, he pooled together some of Vancouver’s top front of house talents to give Yaletown a go with Lucky Diner But despite good press and an industry crowd, it quickly with e re d a n d d i e d , h a v i n g s u r v i ve d j u s t s e ve n m o n t h s Publicized plans for a spinoff of Salt (to be called Pepper) were discreetly shelved, and Heather returned the full beam of his focus, full circle, back to G astown

The decision to move the Irish Heather was thrust upon him by circumstance. This year, the heritage buildings that house all three of his original G astown businesses (the Irish Heather, the Shebeen, the Salty Tongue) have been sched uled for seismic upgrades, meaning that all three would need to close for a costly three months Rather than wait it out, Heather was able to secure a lease for the King’s Building across the street (which has already been retrofit ted and comes complete with air conditioning, something the originals never had) He has since announced his inten tions to move all three in one go. Considering how well loved these establishments are in the community, the move is more like a hear t transplant than the cold execution of a forward thinking business plan: it will need to be done del icately to ensure it still beats

Heather has enlisted Rob Edmonds and David Nicolay of Evoke to perform this surgery Their design company is responsible for such clean lined and modern Vancouver restaurants as Coast, Metro, Habit and Sanafir As Heather tells it, their job is to bring the Irish Heather up to the 21st century, a reflection of the successful, urban Ireland of today, l e a v i n g m u c h o f t h e ro m a n t i c , Guinness soaked ideal o f p o p u lar culture behind Evoke’s track record for nailing their client’s visions is exemplary, so I fear not the coming of something soullessly substandard But I worry, still

engender the loyalties of thousands of Vancouverites I was one of them, always a sucker for the warmth, the quiet whisper of other people’s memories and the Guinness braised steak pot pies

Heather went on to develop seven other projects in the next 10 years. Not all of them were successful, but he star t ed out well enough He quietly opened the Shebeen Whiskey House in 2000, one of the most charming venues I’ve ever seen for small private events Located in a heritage brick coach house that’s tucked away in a leafy arcade behind the Irish Heather, it houses one of Canada’s largest selections of whiskey and enough atmosphere to suffocate those who pine for something a little more real than your average 21st century watering hole.

Two years later he opened the Salty Tongue, a hot lunch spot and deli right next door to the Heather that sells sand wiches as fast as they can make them (“we feed hundreds daily there,” he says) Next, he would midwife the ill fated Limerick Junction up the street with an old friend It was an “ode to the working class” kind of bar that never really took off the way he wanted it to, so he walked away from it just two months in “You always need an exit strategy in this business,” he grins.

Then, in the summer of 2006, he pulled a rabbit out of his hat with Salt Tasting Room and a new par tner, Scott Hawthorn Located around the corner in sketchy Blood Alley, the odd spot blew as a “perfect storm ” Though it ser ved only cheese, charcuterie, beer and wine, it garnered accolades and attentions from near and far despite not hav ing a kitchen It remains one of the more revered and popu

The plan is to incorporate the pub and the deli into the same space, and there is a second building in the rear that will make room for the Shebeen in all its storied glory Having seen the plans, I am tempted to imagine the end result as something extraor dinary: the last affirmative breath a n d f i n a l p u n c t u a t i o n p o i n t t o a t e d i o u s d e b a t e t h a t s t i l l a s k s i f G astown is back and back for good Fo r S e a n H e a t h e r, I h a ve l i t t l e doubt that opening day will be a homecoming of sor ts, a return to the s e n s e o f p o s s i b i l i t y h e re l i e d o n when he arrived here fresh but not flush With just $50 in his jeans, per haps of a similar cut and colour to the kind he wears to Salt today, he rolled the dice as he will roll them again this sum mer, and in a West that is still a little Wild

When he takes me downstairs to reveal Salt Cellar, the new 50 seat private room and lounge in the basement, I see the pride and excitement come again. This newest project, a warm up to the big move, is a taste of the more modern turn he’s toying with taking Opened by the time this goes to print, the Salt Cellar will boast geothermal heating, cured meats hanging from ancient beams, 1,000 bottles of wine stored in a floor to ceiling glass case, polished concrete floors, a long communal table, and people presumably lots of them

The new Heather Tongue Shebeen triumvirate will see strokes from this modern brush I just hope it won’t sweep much of the charm away, too Selfishly, I’ll remember the original as the first place my wife wanted to show me when we first visited Vancouver before we were married We sat in the back room during a rainstorm, still cour ting, sipping well pulled pints while supping on bangers and mash The food was never revelatory (“we’re not going to set the world on fire,” Heather once told me), but it was simple and hon est, and there was a life to it and a history that warmed the room when it was at its coldest and made us not want to ever go That sor t of thing has trouble crossing streets

Only when June rolls around and the neighbourhood gets its hands on it will we know if Sean Heather has made the right move There is little to do but wait and hope Hope that what once was will be again, and wait to see if hope still counts for much. EAT feedback@eatmagazine.ca

The new Salt Cellar, a modern and secluded spot under the award-winning Salt Tasting Room in Gastown.

Farm

by Tara Lee

f l o c k i n g Polderside

In the wee hours of the morn ing, Virginia and Jens Hugo Jacobsen of Polderside Farms drive to Vancouver International Airpor t to pick up a batch of newly hatched chicks that have just arrived from France. Together, they delicately place the cardboard boxes into the warmth of their van and drive home to their Yarrow farm in the shadow of Vedder Mountain There, in a two storey barn, they unload their downy cargo above a gaggle of ducklings below “My husband takes the babies out of the boxes, a handful at a time, like soap bubbles out of a bath,” says Virginia The unbroken silence that per vades this process prevents the chicks from mistakenly bonding with the Jacobsens It’s also symbolic of the couple’s reverence, respect and care for the animals they raise

Both Virginia and Jens have grown up believing in the bounty of the ear th and have lived the joys of the farmers who tend it. Jens was born in Norway where farming was a way of life for him Virginia grew up on an Alber ta farm with a lifestyle that she took for granted “My parents and I lived on the land and grew our own food I thought everybody did the same Once you’re raised with that, it is just a way of life,” she explains When the two met 35 years ago, their romantic chemistry sprang in par t from a shared food philos ophy: “Jens brought me a snapper on the first date, and on the second date, he wanted to know why we weren’t raising chickens ”

And so began a rich par tnership that saw the couple installed first in Abbotsford and then on Vancouver Island where they supplied their greenhouse fruits and vegetables to BC Hot House After 12 years of idyllic island life, they relocated to the Fraser Valley in order to be at the centre of an increasingly concentrated farming community The move and the decision to ramp up their existing poultry production resulted in considerable bureaucratic strife with the BC Chicken Marketing Board Misunderstandings over permits and a raid and seizure of a flock of roasters demonstrated the obstacles that face small, local farmers For tunately, the issues were resolved, and Virginia is now thankful that the couple can co exist undisturbed among larger farming conglomerates

The Jacobsens are indeed unique farmers They never raise more than 3,500 birds on each floor at a time in their 30,000 square foot barn and are exacting with every aspect of their micromanaged operation (there are no employees) They carefully source ducks and chickens from French stocks that have been tightly con trolled for generations Virginia explains, “In France, they don’t want creatures to be grown hybridized That is why we chose the redbro It’s like an old fashioned chicken that you remember from storybooks ” The Jacobsens are the only ones in Canada who raise the redbro, a bird prized for its longer legs, thinner skin and higher meat to fat ratio Similarly, their ducks are from an old French breeding stock of Long Island ducks (descen dents of the Peking duck) and are known for being naturally full breasted and especially succulent when cooked

The couple’s adherence to tradition also extends to raising conditions Without any help, the Jacobsens (now in their mid 60s) spend the first 10 days of the birds’ lives in and out of the barn every hour to give their “babies” the best care possible Unlike industrial farms that have high mor tality rates, Polderside loses few birds due to their hardy immune systems and the couple’s attentive care “With the last shipments, we have only lost one or none We just don’t have mor tality at all,” Virginia says proudly

After four weeks, when the “babies” have lost their fluff and are “all feathered up,” the Jacobsens throw open their barn doors and invite the fresh air inside Although the birds have room to run and play, they never leave the barn and are considered “free run” rather than “free range.” The flock stays indoors to prevent them from being exposed to poten tial disease “With the potential of the avian flu being brought in by wildlife, it is danger ous having our chickens out pasturing,” Virginia explains, adding that they use no antibi otics, hormones or cooked food in the feed Instead, they mimic a traditional outdoor diet of alfalfa, corn, wheat and sunflower seeds The seeds are especially impor tant because they naturally boost the bird’s immune system “We only give what the original chicken would eat,” insists Virginia

The quality of the birds’ lives matters to the Jacobsens because they see themselves as

p h o t o s b y G a r y H y n e s

Virginia and Jens-Hugo Jacobsen lovingly tend their ducks and chickens the old fashioned way: humanely, organically, slowly.

guardians of the animals they tend As Virginia talks about her role on the farm, she exudes maternal affection for her birds She describes the ducks as being “funny” and the chickens as having “a wonderful personality As they get to know you, they will come and stand on your feet and you can tickle their backs We get attached to them and they get attached to us ”

Despite this friendly relationship, the Jacobsens are always aware that they are working for the benefit of the final consumer “ There is always that moment when they have to go to the processor, and we realize we have to betray our friends,” Virginia explains “But then we realize that we have raised them the best way that we can, and that we are send ing them off to be nutritious food for other people ”

While a longer life cycle requires more expense and more labour, it also means con sumers receive a fully developed seven pound (five pounds dressed) bird “Our babies are grown to nine weeks so they become an adult, real bird and you get more chicken taste and all the nutrients you need from the bird,” says Virginia.

Compare this humane and responsible treatment of the Polderside birds to what goes on in larger operations The consumer preference for chicken breasts has fuelled a demand for birds that are market friendly but also physically debilitated by their unnatu rally large breasts These birds are packed into high density conditions and then sold after 36 to 41 days when they are physically immature, and only three to four pounds in weight Farmers save money on feed and can reap the rewards of a much higher turnover rate In contrast, the Jacobsens are able to accommodate only five flocks a year, due to their much lengthier nine week cycle, and their commitment to allotting each of the birds at least three to four square feet in their barn.

Economies of scale and the lower cost of mass produced birds mean that conventional farmers have an advantage over small producers like the Jacobsens While industrial chicks cost roughly 50 cents, the Jacobsens must pay at least $2 for their French birds Factor in the extra feeding and labour costs to raise the birds to adulthood, and Polderside products are much more expensive for producers to produce and for consumer to purchase

In a world of cheap, mass produced food, the Jacobsens have faced an uphill battle when it comes to convincing both restaurateurs and final consumers to sample their prod ucts Virginia recollects the reticence from buyers who were wary about their chickens in comparison to the bulk trays of chicken breasts at most supermarkets: “I have had to self market I have had to phone, talk and network to get people to try the product There still is resistance since people are so used to cheap food, and our chicken is more expen sive ”

For tunately, it is only this initial resistance that the Jacobsens have had to overcome Once consumers taste Polderside chicken and duck, they realize the improvements in flavour and texture vastly justify the price differential When asked what “chicken” tastes like, Virginia is momentarily stumped but then responds, “I don’t know how you would describe that chicken taste, but I do know that the industrial chicken has no taste at all Our chicken has that true chicken flavour It is moist and has juice to it It is amazing and not something you want to cover up with a lot of spices.”

In an ideal world, Virginia would invite people into her kitchen and allow the simple per suasiveness of her roast chicken to win them to the side of local farmers Despite the popularity of farmers’ markets, there exists a significant divide between farmers and con sumers “As the farmer, we tried for a long time to educate consumers, but farmers are now locked down so that the consumer can’t access the farmer anymore What is left are the chefs asking the questions and wanting to cook more nutritious meals,” Virginia says And so, every Thursday, the Jacobsens load their van and deliver to the many chefs and butchers that source their products. Currently, Polderside birds can be found in five retail outlets: Armando’s Finest Meats on Granville Island, Cioffi’s Meat Market in Burnaby, So cial Custom Butcher Shop in G astown, 3P Natural and Exotic Meats in Nor th Vancouver and Yellow Barn in Chilliwack

John Burke, manager at the So cial butcher shop, was excited when he sampled Polderside poultry and has convinced his customers to do the same “Initially, they are a bit more sticker shocked, but the chickens are actually only a bit more expensive than free range organic chickens CONT ’D ON TH E FOLLOWI NG PAG E

Love birds: Virginia and Jens-Hugo Jacobsen at their Polderside Farm in the Fraser Valley.

Once I tasted it, I realized how much tastier it is,” he insists Burke likes the flavour of the birds so much that he uses the duck to make pâtés and the chicken to make sausages, both of which sell out so rapidly that cus tomers are left clamouring for more Polderside and butchers like So cial are an ideal match because they share a similar belief in local and ethical food production The Jacobsens have worked equally hard to supply to restaurants like CinCin, Aurora Bistro and Raincity Grill that have the same mindset about food In his days at West, chef David Hawkswor th was one of the first to source from Polderside and is more than will ing to pay the extra cost for such a premium product “ The duck meat tastes nice and clean,” says Hawkswor th enthusiastically, “and there is a lot of it The fat is very clean on the duck, and it’s just a well rounded flavour. And the same goes for the chicken They just taste like duck and chicken are supposed to taste ” For the dinner menu, Hawkswor th brined the breasts and then roasted them to order, while for lunch, he often deboned the legs and filled them with bread and prosciutto stuffing He also incorporates the ducks in terrines and ravioli, uses the bones for stock and sauces, and even renders the fat down for confit.

Over at Kitsilano’s G astropod, chef Angus An expresses a similar respect for the birds “People who come to our restaurant are looking for something different, and Virginia preaches the same theory in her farming,” he says It took An a couple months to get on the Jacobsens’ list of steady customers, but it was well wor th the wait “ The first time I had her chicken was at Fuel next door when Rob [co owner/chef Rober t Belcham] was telling me about it,” An remembers. “It was the most intensified chicken of any chicken that I had ever tasted ”

An showcases this intense flavour by creating a ballo tine of both breast and thigh meat On Saturdays, he offers a slow cooked duck breast with crispy skin, a Cabernet reduction, Swiss chard and fig purée Even though he only receives five ducks per week, he simply couldn’t resist creating a weekend dish “I don’t need to put it on the menu, but it is so nice. I had to have it,” he says

Hawkswor th and An are just two examples of a growing number of chefs who are demanding more high quality, ethically treated products They are highly appreciative of the birds the Jacobsens supply and thankful for the sup por tive relationships they forge with their customers Unfor tunately, the Jacobsens follow farming practices that are dying out in the face of large scale food production. “Farming is being done by less and less people and it is losing its naturalness,” says Virginia “ The scientists are changing what has been given freely to this ear th Nothing is authentic anymore ”

This altered agricultural industry frustrates Virginia, who wishes to make a difference to the local eating land scape She despairs that financial obstacles will make it more and more difficult for small farmers to sur vive “Farming is not respected. There is no suppor t financially for farmers, par ticularly for farmers like us who are trying to grow a better product for human consumption It is so impor tant to suppor t the small and regional farmer,” she urges

This final note of warning is indicative of Virginia’s fears for the future, but her hope is that change is still possi ble She and her husband continue to believe that a hopeful future lies with the small but growing number of chefs and consumers who are returning to the land Their ultimate dream is to inspire a young couple who will carry on their farming traditions and recruit other people into the business Until that time, they have plans to obtain more quota, build a second barn, and above all, maintain their unswer ving farming principles “We hope that we can do this until we are 100,” Virginia says “We are truly in our bliss even though we will never be rich. We grow our own food and I think we are doing something right in the world ” feedback@eatmagazine ca

Simple Cooking

Virginia follows these cooking instructions when she prepares duck and chicken in her farmhouse kitchen She adds only salt and pepper to her chicken and then cooks it in the oven in a covered dish at 250 to 300ºF Intoxicating wafts of roasting chicken fill the room as Virginia tests for doneness by gently twisting the drum stick off the bird As for the duck, Virginia crisps the skin by taking off the lid shor tly before she takes it out of the oven for ser ving She then pours off the oil and fat, puts it in the freezer for it to solidify, and then saves it for pan frying potatoes TL

EAT THE DISH

Buying Polderside

The recipes in Midweek Meals are described

“factory pre pared, ready to heat foods” With a little extra effor t Akis maintains, preparing simple family meals during the week can be a pleasurable experience and the resulting dinners more nutritious

Thumbing through the pages the recipes all share some common denominators: they are fast and easy to make, the recipe ingredient lists are not overly large (nor do they require a culinary dictionary) and most reflect current eating trends The chapters focus on break fasts, lunches, main course soups and salads with dinner entrees sub divided into noodles, slow cooker, casual, international, stews, braises and roasts Desser ts aren’t neglected with offering such as One Pan Chocolate Cake, Hot Caramel Pudding Cake and Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies

Main course recipes that caught my eye included: Fish Tacos, Asian Style Vegetable Noodle Bowl, Slow Cooker Pork Back Ribs in Barbecue Sauce and Large Batch and Freeze Meatballs The last making about seven dozen meatballs which can be frozen and used whenever you want to make Meatballs in Sour Cream Gravy with Parsley Noodles (page 68 ) Keep this book handy in the kitchen and you may never have to wander the frozen food wasteland at the supermarket again Whitecap Books ISBN 155285 924 G H

E ATjobs launched at www.eatjobs.ca

EAT publisher G ary Hynes is pleased to announce the launch of EATjobs for Vancouver Island’s hospitality industry Launching February 25, EATjobs will ser ve up Vancouver Island’s Hospitality Industry postings, positions with British Columbia’s great resor t proper ties and select oppor tunities from Vancouver.

“All indications are that the labour shor tage affecting BC’s Hospitality Industry will contin ue for the foreseeable future,” says Hynes, “especially as we enter into the busy spring and summer seasons ”

The EATjobs board will allow employers to more effectively post and manage the recruiting of Qualified jobseekers not only on the Island, but reaching the province’s industry professionals like only EAT Magazine can

Employers wishing more information are invited to contact G ary Hynes at EAT Magazine by visiting www eatmagazine ca, calling 250 384 9042 or by email adver tise@eatmagazine ca

Popular local food writer Eric Akis has a new cookbook out Entitled Everyone Can Cook Midweek Meals, it is the four th book in his series under the Everyone Can Cook headline It is most handsomely designed book of the series (Whitecap Books has done a bang up job) with Michael Tourigny’s mouthwatering photographs and Jacqui Thomas’ colourful and easy to use design

by author Akis as an antidote to

Bella Italia

If one can get past the memories of raffia-wrapped bottles and the peculiarities of its labelling system, Italy’s wines can be molto molto bène.

By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard.

Italian labels still puzzle us However, our fear of missing out on some of the most delicious treats has compelled us to persevere If you wish to rekindle your romance with Italian wines, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is the perfect oppor tunity, par ticularly this year as Italy is the theme country For just a few shekels, you will have Italy at your finger tips You may not like everything, but with a wide range of wine styles, Italy offers something for everyone

Travelling through the country, Italy’s diversity is remarkable. It is a shor t drive from one region to the next, and each province has its own unique scenery, local cuisine and wines that complement the food so perfectly Italy has guarded its regionality religiously This is without a doubt Italy’s great strength

Piedmont

The nor thwestern region of Piedmont captivates us in all aspects Steep groomed vine yards enveloped in fog provide a breathtaking setting If you are lucky enough to be there on a clear day, you realize how close the surrounding Alps are When it comes to the cui sine, Piedmont wins the award for food obsession. Giacomo Conterno from Aldo Conterno winery engaged us in an hour long discussion about local restaurants before opening a sin gle bottle of wine Our mouths were watering and all we wanted was a sip of his renowned Barolo Instead, he star ted us off with a Freisa and then poured us a Dolcetto, next a Barbera, leaving his Barolos for the grande finale The buildup was a delicious reminder that within Piedmont there is a wealth of indigenous varieties

The most famous grape is Nebbiolo, responsible for producing prestigious wines in the regions of Barolo and Barbaresco They are the pinnacle of Italian wine, and their high prices are justified. With haunting aromas, a savoury character and firm structure, Nebbiolo makes us weak at the knees. It transcends the senses evoking overwhelming emotions. Besides Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s other grapes such as Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera have their own unique charms and shouldn’t be ignored Each style has a specific food match, but meat and pasta prevail This is not the place for vegetarians From wild boar, rabbit and carne cruda (a raw beef delicacy) to tajarin (a thin, egg rich noodle deep yellow in colour) and plin (mini ravioli), we happily surrendered to the Piedmont’s food infatuation Our crav ing for fish was the only thing that could drag us away Abruzzo

Off the beaten track, the central eastern region of Abruzzo meets the shimmering blue Adriatic Sea It provides a seafood feast for Italian sun seekers To the west, the Apennines tower above this rugged area In the shor t distance between the mountains and ocean lie random and less orderly vineyards Abruzzo is all about cheap and cheerful wines to wash down the fresh fish Both our livers and our wallets were relieved While Abruzzo will never reach the heights of Piedmont, the region is seriously committed to breaking free from its reputation as a producer of bulk wine Many wineries have invested heavily in state of the ar t equipment and new oak barrels Now, fur ther attention is required in the vineyard if they truly wish to produce top quality wine. Montepulciano is Abruzzo’s flagship variety, and producers have pinned their hopes on this red Quality and style vary enormously At its best, Montepulciano is deeply coloured and exuberant with generous fruit and just enough of the rusticity polished away Successful effor ts include well established Illuminati and exciting newcomer Ciavolich

Bottom

Center:

Bottom

Astraw bottomed bottle of Chianti sitting on a red and white checkered tablecloth may be your only encounter with Italian wine Even if the wine wasn’t memorable, the romantic image lingers like the fond memories of a long lost high school sweethear t

You’ve moved on, however, and so has the wine world You may have been tempted to relive your past, but the Italian selection has broadened and those straw bottles have almost disappeared from the shelves

The enormous range of Italian wine is intimidating, and confusing wine labels don’t help. Besides having to decipher a foreign language, you are faced with labels that highlight the region rather than the grape With 20 provinces and a multitude of sub regions within each, only a super human memory could keep it all straight To complicate matters fur ther, some wines are labelled by grape variety But don’t expect to see Chardonnay or Merlot; Italy has more than 2,000 indigenous grapes, many with unrecognizable names Pecorino? Is it a grape, a region or a type of cheese? The label rarely offers any answers

Completely daunted, many wine drinkers have given up and left the Italian sections in search of something more familiar Quite understandable After years of studying wine,

Our most encouraging discovery in Abruzzo came while sitting in a seaside restaurant We were offered some Pecorino with our sardines and fully expected a side dish of cheese Instead, the sommelier presented us with a very interesting white wine Once a local favourite, Pecorino lost popularity to the much more productive and easier to grow Trebbiano grape. Luckily, some producers are reviving Pecorino. Intense and fleshy yet light on its feet, it has appealing flavours of preser ved lemon It was mouthwatering with the vinaigrette dressed sardines

Friuli

Pecorino is just one example of how fantastic Italian white wines can be Each province produces a variety of whites, but they are often overlooked The nor theastern region of Friuli has built its reputation on whites, especially local grape variety Tocai Friulano This lesser known gem produces distinct luscious whites, robust enough to stand up to rich dishes. In southern Italy, the province of Campania boasts some of Italy’s best kept secrets. Indigenous grapes Greco and Fiano fashion truly unique wines Dry, vibrant and slightly aromatic, their subtle almond notes would complement sablefish, sole meunière and Dungeness crab perfectly The wines from Feudo di San Gregorio are a must try Sicily and Puglia

If you prefer rich, full bodied reds, Sicily and Puglia are great regions to explore The wines won’t be carbon copies of Shiraz or Zinfandel, but they do possess similar richness and ripeness Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s darling This red grape produces deep, full bodied wines with a backbone of balancing acidity. An ideal remedy for a cold rainy night. Ceuso Scurati Nero d’Avola is one of our top picks. When making the leap to Italy, Primitivo is another friendly choice It is grown in the southern Italian region of Puglia Closer to a

Top: Barolo

left: Grown in the southern Italian region of Puglia, Primitivo is rich and toothsome with pruny flavours and usually clocks in at 14+ percent alcohol. The Tormaresca ‘Torcicoda’ is a classic example.

Ceuso Scurati Nero d’Avola from Sicily is one of our top picks

right: A perfect lunch at Badia Coltibuono in Tuscany,

California Zinfandel in style, Primitivo is rich and toothsome with pruny flavours and usually

at 14+ percent alcohol The Tormaresca ‘Torcicoda’ is a classic example Tuscany

For those who seek a more restrained and elegant style of wine, acquaint yourselves with Sangiovese This grape reaches its apogee in Tuscany, and Sangiovese’s most famous guise is Chianti Those thin, insipid wines of yesteryear tarnished Chianti’s reputation, which is unfor tunate. The region produces plenty of top notch wine, and a fantastic Chianti is a must try Some of our favourites include Coltibuono and Isole e Olena For the ultimate Sangiovese experience, treat yourself to a Brunello di Montalcino Montalcino is a region slightly south of Chianti producing long lived, complex wines They’ll set you back at least $60 and will require a few years in the cellar before revealing all of their nuances Altesino and Talenti’s Brunellos shouldn’t be missed

While Italian wines are incredibly diverse, the one thing they have in common is their viva cious acidity They are best enjoyed with food, and with a stunning match, Italian wines actu ally sing. This is why we are so hooked on Italian wines. Forget the checkered tablecloth; you can bring bella Italia to your home by simply picking up a bottle at your local wine store Your adventures will be endless When you take your first sip, close your eyes You will see the Mediterranean, olive groves or Saint Peter’s Basilica lit up at night, and, if you’re lucky, you may even hear Paolo Conte serenading you feedback@eatmagazine ca

T a s t i n g N o t e s

• Featured at the Vancouver International Playhouse

Whites

2006 Solo Frascati, Frascati Superiore DOC, $14 86 CSPC #180166 Simple and cheerful, Solo’s Frascati brings us right back to Rome Mouth watering flavours of apple blossom and lime peel

2005 Belisario, Vigneti del Cerro, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC, $17.83 #64675 Good Verdicchio is difficult to find in this market but we were blown away by Belisario. Thirst quenching with vivacious citrus aromas Great as an aperitif or with delicate white fish

2006 Michele Chiarlo, Gavi DOCG, $26 75 #372359

Enticing apple peel and chamomile notes with a slight fizz making the wine super refresh ing Complex and complete

2006 La Tunella, Biancosesto, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC, $27 00 #294454

A blend of Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, two of Friuli’s indigenous grapes Rose petal, ripe pear aromas and the viscosity are reminiscent of Pinot Gris from Alsace. Vibrant with tons of personality

•

2006 Dei Feudi Di San Gregorio, Falanghina DOC, $27.74 #634907

Very aromatic nose of peach, apricot and white flowers Rich and creamy balanced by a pleasant bitter orange peel finish A dream with sable fish

2006 Mastroberardino, Greco di Tufo DOCG, $28 74 #238204

This is textbook Greco di Tufo Intriguing almond notes on the nose repeat on the palate Refreshing, slightly salty and tangy with green apple flavours Its creamy texture is ideal for Japanese food or fresh white fish drizzle with olive oil and lemon.

Reds

2005 Paiara, Puglia IGT, $9.89 #378182

The best value we’ve found in a long time Full of character, this Negroamaro/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is the ideal everyday drinking wine Definitely over delivers

•

2005 Tormaresca, Nèprica, Puglia IGT, $13 83 #612036

Robust and a bit rustic, this full bodied wine is packed with personality, especially for the money Pleasant roasted herbs notes make Nèprica the perfect match with lamb and grilled sausages.

200 3 Brecciarolo, Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC, $16.84 #98319

A crowd pleaser! Rich and plump, Brecciarolo is the perfect Friday night sipping wine A nice intro to Italy if this is your first encounter Once again, fantastic value!!!

2004 Fattoria di Basciano, Chianti Rufina DOCG, $17 7 3 #499053

The ideal wine to rekindle your romance with Chianti Juicy and thirst quenching, it is a classic example of Chianti from the Rufina district Bright savoury cherry and cinnamon notes with pronounced mineral flavours Fantastic value; bring on the pasta

•2004 Pasqua, Sagramoso, Valpolicella Superiore DOC Ripasso, $21.80 #602342 Surprisingly light on its feet, the Pasqua is consumer and food friendly Delightful

2006 Ceuso, Scurati, Sicilia IGT, $23.6 8 #183319

A long time favourite, Ceuso is a classic example of Sicily’s rising star; Nero d’Avola Full with pronounced savoury prune and blackberry notes and polished tannin Screaming for red meat

•

200 3 Di Majo Norante, Contado, Aglianico del Molise DOC, $23 78 #535732 Robust and tannic, you will be pleased with yourself if you cellar this wine for a few years If you can’t wait, the dried herbs, tar and black licorice flavours will be tasty with a flat iron steak.

2005 Fontanarosa, Por togreco, Basilicata IGT, $24.74 #823666

A blend of Aglianico, Sangiovese and Merlot Full bodied and firm with dark fruit and salted licorice flavours underlined by a stoniness Complex yet reser ved and elegant One of our favourite new discoveries

•2004 Tormaresca ‘Torcicoda’ Primitivo, Salento IGT Puglia, $24 77 #149195

A great example of a Primitivo from Puglia Rich and supple with succulent flavours of fig, dates and bramble pie Best enjoyed with

Strong, concentrated, with sweet and balanced tannins on the palate. Very long finish with very important organoleptic and poliphenolic aspects, which will ensure to this wine an extraordinary longevity.

Grange displays fully-ripe and intenselyflavoured Shiraz and some Cabernet grapes in combination with new American oak. The result is a unique Australian style that is now recognised as one of the most consistent of the world’s great wines.

Rich black berry and leather. Sage and spice on the palate. Well integrated French oak. Will age 8-12 years or drink now. One of BC`s Top Reds!

Wine Festival

Whites

Stormy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 06 South Africa $12.00 14.00

After tasting several dozen sauvignon blancs from around the world, I came away thinking that for the money, this zippy little gem from the cradle of civilization is all a man might want when the occasion just doesn’t seem to merit a bottle of Cloudy Bay! With a slash of zesty acidity and a mouthful of fresh citrus peach flavours, this easy drinking white punches well above its humble price point

Golan Heights Yarden Muscat 05 Israel $26 00 28 00

If this lovely sweet Muscat is any indication of the overall quality of the plethora of Israelis wines new to the BC market, things are looking up. Intensely grapey and very sweet but not cloying, with a cut of refreshing acidity and a long rich finish that just keeps going! Kosher and proud of it

Ngatarawa Silks Sauvignon Blanc 06 New Zealand $24.00 27.00

Powerful yet refreshing, with ripe pear, gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, some weight on the palate and an ample squeeze of mouthwatering acidity to put it all in perspective More please

Reds

Stormy Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 06 South Africa $12.00 14.00

Dense, dark and definitely new world in style This lushly textured cab from the plains of Africa has explosive fruit flavours yet remains surprisingly well balanced Round and smooth with bright boysenberry, black currant and mint flavours and a soft but persistent finish Pretty good drinking for the buck Roux Pere & Fils Saint Aubin 1er Cru “Les Cor tons” 05 $50.00 55.00

The tiny village of Saint Aubin is located in Burgundy’s famed Cote de Beaune Although the appellation has never been considered in the same league as some of its more illustrious neighbours, Saint Aubin is an appellation wor th seeking for the rela tive value of its reds and whites. Very pale in colour with lovely peach, pear and brioche aromas, refined fruit and mineral flavours, nicely balanced with a soft, creamy texture and a long supple finish Elegant indeed

Ngatarawa Silks Syrah 06 New Zealand $24.00 27.00

Pronounced Naa Taa Ra Wa, by the locals before and after every rugby game, this amply endowed Syrah came as a bit of a surprise when first sampled Coming from cool climate New Zealand, I just did not expect this wine to be as big as it has turned out to be But there you go, what do I know? Lush and round with sweet plum, white pepper and spice scents, rich berry flavours and a long fleshy finish Ngatarawa Estampa Malbec Petite Sirah 06 Chile $14 00 16 00

The Estampa winery and vineyards are located on prime real estate in the hear t of the Colchagua Valley in central Chile The company philosophy is based around the sanc tity of the blend; they make no single varietal wines at all Seems kind of limiting but it is their ball and so far the results have proven pretty tasty! Medium to full bodied with intense berry, spice and espresso flavours nicely balanced with a rasp of edgy tannins.

Casa Santos Lima Quinta da Espiga 05 Por tugal $13 00 15 00

Sometimes a good cheap red is all you need and if complexity is not high on the agen da then look no fur ther; this tasty little slurp from sunny Por tugal delivers the goods. Medium bodied with fresh raspberry and cherry flavours, some spicy oak notes and a blush of fine grained tannins that on the palate

Wirra Wirra Church Block 05 Australia $25.00 28.00

This blockbuster from Mclaren Vale is a shameless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Shiraz (35%) and Merlot (18%) but as many Aussies are wont to do, puts out more than the sum of its par ts Concentrated but firm with intense cherry, black pep per and spice flavours, a hedonistic texture and a finish that grinds on. You’ll be back.

Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2001 California $19 95

There is nothing subtle about this wine It is a full figured, in your face, take no pris oners fruit bomb that leaves nothing to the imagination. Just the way we like it! Delicious and alluring with a cer tain ear thy fecundity that some might find forward but is attractive nonetheless

La Buxynoise Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru 05 France $35.00 40.00

Medium bodied with ripe cherry, spice and wet ear th aromas, a silky texture, ripe berry flavours and a long supple finish This elegant little pinot could use a couple more years in the bottle to really show its stuff, but regardless, is damn fine drinking right now. When only Burgundy will do, look no fur ther.

Ber tani Valpolicella Valpantena “Secco Ber tani” Ripasso 04 Italy $20.00-23.00

Secco Ber tani occupies an interesting point on the wine continuum It is not a fruity lit tle Valpolicella best quaffed in great draughts with friends and pizza, nor does it have the baronial stature of a mature Amarone, meant to be sipped and contemplated, on its own or with a wedge of good hard cheese No my friends, this brawny ripasso wine offers the best of both styles It is bone dry with a nose reminiscent of dried cherries, minerals and spice Medium bodied with noticeable acidity, ample fruit flavours and a patina of dusty tannins. Open it early and give it a couple of hours in the decanter for best results

“…intense cherr y, black pepper and spice flavours, a hedonistic texture and a finish that grinds on”

Adventures In BC Beer Tasting: Hay, Grapefruit and Cookie Dough in Your Glass

When I decided to host my first beer tasting par ty on a rainy night in January, there was only one rule at the door: no beer snobs On the other hand, beer drinking slobs were permitted, provided they bring an open minded passion for beer in its infinite stylistic possibility

This was my first attempt at hosting a beer tasting, so I kept it intimate: two of my beer lov ing compatriots (actually not beer slobs at all) agreed to come Dan is an accomplished home brewer with vast technical knowledge of all things beer; Jeffery, a salmon biologist who shares my love of British ales, brings the quiet focus and intensity of a scientist to his beer fixation And then there was me, whose technical beer knowledge is dwarfed by my curiosity, which is the beauty of beer it’s not so much what you know, all you have to do is care

Our beer tasting strategy was to systematically taste and analyse a selection of BC craft brews in order of mildest to strongest I ordered the beers somewhat simplistically from least to most hoppy because I’m a hophead and it was my par ty

Our beer picks came from all over BC, in the following order of tasting: Bunny’s ‘Black and Tan’ Ale from Nanaimo’s Fat Cat brewery; Tree Brewing’s Spy Por ter from Kelowna; Tall Timber Brown Ale from Mount Begbie Brewing in Revelstoke; Black Widow Dark Ale from Tin Whistle in Penticton; Vancouver brewed R&B Hopgoblin I PA; and Amnesiac I PA from Phillips Brewing in Victoria

To guide our tasting, we downloaded free tasting sheets from Ratebeer com, which list the main categories to be considered, including appearance, aroma, palate, and flavour. Under each of these headings are listed subheadings and adjectives to help describe the beer For example, a drinker tasting a beer can look under the aroma subheading “hops” and select from the following: flowers, perfume, herbs, celery, grass, pine, spruce, resin, citrus, grape fruit and so on

It takes time and intense concentration to evaluate the subtlety of the beers, especially if you are a novice The malt aroma from the Black and Tan that I attributed to chocolate, Dan thought was more like cookie dough Dan and I agreed that the Spy Por ter had a toasted malt aroma, but for the life of me I could not detect the hint of “hay” or slight “resin” hoppiness. Jeffery was sure that the Black Widow Dark Ale was impar ting aromas of plum and blackber ry, although all I could detect was molasses

Four hours later we were still at it, although quite frankly, my taste buds were losing sensi tivity I was already rever ting to the beer slob of the past, pondering eating a bag of chips on the couch But my friends were still there, and a single large bottle of Phillips Amnesiac I PA loomed large in the fridge

We saved the hoppiest and strongest beer for last, and in the end it was rated the highest by all three of us Amnesiac is a beer that is so hop caustic, it is likely unpalatable to the majority of beer drinkers. Dan placed his nose over the copper hued ale and inhaled, his eyes instantly watering “It has an aroma I can feel in my eyes,” he laughed Dan launched into a tirade about excessively hoppy beer causing shor t term memory loss, a proper ty he said gave this beer its name (I made a mental note to call brewmaster Matt Phillips to confirm, but forgot )

Compared to R&B’s Hopgoblin I PA, the hop aroma and kick was completely different Jeffery picked up more of a resiny pine in the Phillips, while Dan classified it simply as “heavy and harsh ”

Our assessments of this and the rest were quite different, although we did ultimately agree on the two top beers: Phillips Amnesiac, followed by Kelowna brewed Spy Por ter After five hours of tasting, my friends finally went home and I reclined on the couch in front of the TV, incoherently channel surfing with a bag of chips like any other beer slob at the end of a long Friday night of drinking feedback@eatmagazine ca

by Treve Ring

Hugh Hamilton Winer y Dinner at The Mark

February 11, 2008

Vivacious Aussie, and 6th Generation winemaker Mary Hamilton, led the cozy group amassed in The Mark though a tasting of her family’s wines Though the names of Hugh Hamilton Wines may sound frivolous, (The Loose Cannon, Jim Jim and Mongrel were in attendance), the wines themselves were anything but Situated in the hear t of McLaren Vale, the wines were more in line with the Old World than Oz fruit bombs typically seen in this price range ($22 $40)

The Loose Canyon Viognier echoed Condrieu’s ear thy minerality, and was a bang on match to Executive Chef Rick Choy’s pairing specially jetted in Barramundi, steamed with lemon grass and kaffir And the Jekyll & Hyde Shiraz Viognier blend was in perfect focus with the grilled lamb rack, beluga lentils and most clearly cocoa bean jus Throughout, Mary was very engaging, sharing the stories of how her father Hugh (The Black Sheep of the family), arrived at these offbeat and endearing wines

The honed kitchen team and polished ser vice crew gets stronger with each dinner in the wine series the miniature, perfectly car ved Roasted Fraser Valley Rabbit Rack elicited applause from the appreciative crowd. Watch for future dinners to be announced and book early the room only hold a select (and lucky) few diners www themark ca

Grand Pacific, 463 Belleville St , Victoria, BC, 250 380 4487, www themark ca

Hugh Hamilton Wines Limited availability in vancouver and victoria available in select stores www promarkpremiumwines com The Mark, Hotel

Chefs Talk

W HISTLER

Compiled by Ceara Lornie

Hassle-free suggestions for a sit down dinner for six

James Walt | Araxi | 604 932 4540

Tons of fun and less hassle than fondue is a raclette Think steamed Pember ton butter potatoes, thick slices of your favourite charcuterie, crusty bread and melted raclette cheese (Qualicum Cheeseworks makes a nice one) Ser ve with gherkins, pickled on ions and a crisp green salad For desser t, poach pears in advance with red wine or spiced rum, accompanied by vanilla ice cream drizzled with golden syrup and topped with a biscuit

VICTORIA

David Feys | Feys and Hobbs | 250 380 0 390

That's so easy! Call Feys+Hobbs and have us organize a menu that you feel confident to reheat from soup to nuts we've got your back! You'll look like a star and you'll have a stress free experience Hey, we can even send someone to heat/ser ve/clean up! Now that's hassle free! It's the way to go

Peter Heptonstall | Restaurant Matisse | 250 480 0883 One Bourbon one Scotch one beer, with perhaps a her ring

Jeff Keenliside | The Marina Restaurant | 250 598 8555

If you ask my wife she would say I'm not much for hassle free as I spend all day in the kitchen and par t of the night when we have people over So I would look to her on this She would build lasagna the day before (and put one in the freezer) and ser ve it with caesar salad Micki always makes a mean fruit crumble at a moment’s notice and that makes for two one pan courses Nice Buy a baguette from your favourite bakery and enjoy your company and the wine!

Corey Korenicki | Wren Restaurant | 250.598.97 36

I would suggest a theme oriented event, keeping it interest ing and fun. Converse with your “par ty” and involve them, everyone has a secret favorite. Small bites, simple dishes, with room for introducing new experiences, and ingredients. Beverages also welcome the option of conversation, and consumption. It’s always exciting to take a plunge, and try something new. Education can be appetizing. And don’t for get the cheese course.

Corey Jessup | Vic’s Steakhouse and Bar | 250.480.6586

One thing I love is one pot dinners, when you want to spend time with company and not a lot in the kitchen One item that I suggest for a par ty of six that is hassle free would be a venison cassoulet You can buy your venison shanks from a local butcher, sear them off in a large round pot (rondo), add your vegetables, potatoes and stock and put them in the oven to braise for a couple of hours Next thing you know you have a warm winter dinner on those cold winter nights

Chris Cameron | Brentwood Bay Lodge | 250.544.2079

Anytime I'm doing a dinner par ty I like to challenge myself and use ingredients unfamiliar to my guests Kumumoto oysters in an oyster jelly, cave aged Gruyère souffle, quail eggs, warm terrine of wild hare, foie gras, squid ink brioche, poached Eastern Malaysia lobster, truffle foam and Sevruga caviar, turducken, brunoise of celeriac, carrot, squash, fen nel, celery, beets, daikon, gailan, bok choy, truffle, corn, green peas, 78% chocolate souffle, Lombok coffee trilogy and blackberry segments

Aaron Lawrence | Wild Saffron Bistro | 250 361 3310

Having spent five years working and training in Switzerland I have brought back many dishes and recipes from different European regions I feature many of them in my restaurant at the wild Saffron Bistro and one that I feel works well for hassle free dinner par ties is the traditional Swiss fondue with a few trays of savoury snacks Many people that I know have a fondue set gathering dust in a cupboard or base ment

Shawn Morrison | Verjus Restaurant | 250 595 1112

One large roasting chicken, four medium potatoes, six shal lots, two carrots, one celery stalk, two good bottles of Riesling Download a recipe by Julia Child's for the perfect roast chicken dinner People will think you prepped it for hours when it really only took half an hour and you only used one pan Star t with a simple salad and finish with homemade ice cream sandwiches Simple, elegant, easy and delicious

Scot Tremblay | Blue Crab Bar and Grill |250 480 1999

As I write this a light snow is falling in Victoria, I have my fire place stoked, CBC radio is playing some of my favorite

Iberian composers and my mind drifts back to the wonder ful days I spent traveling the Picos de Europa in nor thern Spain I have invited four good friends for dinner, seasoned up my prized cast iron cookware and set the table "ser ve yourself" family style My wife and I will be ser ving an asparagus, watercress, orange segment and Stilton cheese salad with a simple dressing of extra virgin olive oil and white balsamic vinegar; oxtail, double braised with Torres Sangre de Toros, garlic and roma tomato; roasted winter vegetables with plenty of fresh oregano, smoked sea salt and cracked pepper, accompanied with crusty farmhouse bread and sufficiently satisfying amounts of Catalan's finest expor t For desser t, sour apple and dried cranberry cobbler with caramelized double cream Garrett Schack | Vista 18 | 250 382 9258

Is there really such a thing as a hassle free sit down dinner? Shor t of dialing 310 1010 and throwing some napkins on the table, your best bet is to keep it simple Star t with a sea sonal soup, cold in the summer like watermelon soup with feta and mint, or potato leek with crispy bacon for those frosty winter evenings As for a middle course, one pot won ders are a sure bet Oven roasted duck legs or braised shor t ribs are great for indi vidual por tions and easy ser ving Last but not least desser t, again think of the seasons, fresh berries with dulce de leche whipped cream as a summer cool down or rice pud ding with toasted hazelnuts and fresh grated cinnamon to keep the chill away The most impor tant thing is to keep a full glass and your fingers tucked in Ben Peterson | Heron Rock Bistro | 250 383 1545

A big pot of onion soup on the stovetop, with fresh from the oven melted Gruyère on toast to garnish, a beautifully caramelized rib roast with root vegetables and potato to catch the drippings, and a little left over Merlot to make a pan jus To finish, fruit crumble done in a big casserole with plenty of vanilla ice cream to spread around Meals like this, with few ingredients and a real sense of comfor t are what my family, friends and I like to cook together when we cele brate They're simple to prepare ahead and require minimal hassle at ser vice time, allowing everyone to sit and enjoy!

Dave Car tner | Laurel Point Inn | 250.386.8721

I think that there is nothing better than a savoury fondue. With good company and a leisurely pace this turns food into an evening of enter tainment. The best thing about eating this way is you can use anything that you have on hand and cater to the needs of your guests.

VANCOUVER

Jean Christophe Poirier | Chow restaurant | 604.608.2469

In the winter time, I like to braise meat slowly in the oven so when my guests arrive the apar tment is full of wonderful aromas My suggestion to you is lamb shanks braised in a tomato sauce with root vegetable such as carrots, parsnips and celeriac Forget about it for three hours while it's cook ing in your oven and at the end add a cup of couscous Ser ve it with a side of spicy sauce, bread and yogur t full of cilantro and mint

Kim Thai | Fleuri Restaurant | 604.642.2900

As much as I like to cook, I like to play host just as much, so when I enter tain at home, simple is always best When I want to keep it simple, I like to go with some fresh sea food Star t with six pieces of (3/4 inch) seabass steak Drizzle olive oil into a roasting pan and season with salt Toss in one small diced onion, fresh grated ginger and a chopped garlic clove Then pour sake over the seabass, cover it all with alu minum foil and the place it in a pre heated over at 400 F for 10 minutes Easy and simple, Sake Seabass!

C h r i s W h i t t a k e r | O ' D o u l ' s Re s t a u ra n t a n d B a r | 604.661.1407

My suggestion for a hassle free dinner for six would be to do a Chinese hot pot Make a flavourful broth, head down to the Chinese market and buy fresh seafood, sliced meats, dumplings, leafy vegetables, etc and sit back while every one cooks for themselves

Jeremie Bastien | Boneta | 604 6 84 1844

Paté rillette from Oyama Sausage Co , cheese from Les Amis (favorites: Baskeriu a firm sheep's milk, Chèvre Noir a goat cheddar from Quebec and Ciel de Charlevoix my favorite blue) Round it out with cornichons, fresh baguettes and St Ambroise grainy mustard For mains, I'd ser ve oven roasted Black Angus prime rib with Maldon salt and fresh cracked black pepper with fingerling potatoes, arugula

salad with balsamic and Parmiggiano Reggiano Don't for get the Bernaise sauce Desser t would be strawberries or seasonal fruits tossed with vin cotto (grape must is avail able at La Grotta on Commercial Drive) ser ved over slightly softened vanilla ice cream

J u l i a n B o n d | Pa c i f i c I n s t i t u t e o f C u l i n a r y A r t s | 604 7 34 4488

My dinner for six would involve a little preparation but a has sle free ser vice Camember t macerated with Stoneboat Pinot Noir with fresh figs and prosciutto ; Dungeness crab salad with a simple lemon thyme vinaigrette (crab tossed in hand cut salad leaves, dressing made with grape seed oil); braised lamb neck shepherds pie

(this is a classic that is often confused and made with beef when is should be made with lamb The lamb neck (in my opinion the best cut) should be slow braised); and sour cherry pudding with lemon scented clotted cream

François Gagnon | CinCin | 604 688 7 338

Fire up the barbecue for a few racks of slowly roasted pork and your favourite grilled seasonal vegetables Polenta is a delicious hassle free accompaniment that you can prepare in advance and fry right before you’re ready to plate Ser ve with a fresh herb and green salad tossed with pine nuts and a light vinaigrette To finish, an Earl Grey pannacotta is sim ple to make with only a few ingredients and is delicious with caramel ized walnuts and warmed organic honey

Greg Armstrong | Habit Lounge | 604.877.8585

Hassle free, eh? I'd lay out a spread of cured meats, sausage, cheese, olives, marinated vegetables with some baguette with plenty of cocktails. For the main course I would do a baked pasta that you can fully prepare the day before then just throw in the oven when needed. Something like Mezzani with Chorizo, tomato, garlic, eggplant, red pep pers, smoked paprika and topped and baked with goat feta.

Ser ve the pasta with a simple green salad and some garlic bread. For desser t more cocktails.

Travis Williams | The Cascade Room | 604.709.8650

For a hassle free sit down dinner for six, as much advanced preparation as possible is key so you can maximize your time with your guests, and minimize your time in the kitchen I would prepare an antipasti platter of sliced meats, cheese and olives for all to enjoy before dinner For a main course, whole roasted free range chicken with lemon, rose mary and olive oil, a big pan of roasted baby potatoes and a green salad with a simple vinaigrette Of course, a nice bot tle of dry white wine, and an assor tment of fresh cut fruit for desser t

Peter Roberston | Rain City Grill | 604.685.7 337

I guess for me the highlight of having mates around for din ner, is probably the lead up For star ters it will inevitably take place on a Sunday, because it's the only day my wife and I have off together so we will try to make the most of it Depending on the time of year, we might take the dog out hunting for mushrooms to go with a roast chicken, or head down to fishermen's wharf to grab a bunch of crabs for Singapore chili crab that we can all dig into with a few cold beers I find that if we have had a good day shopping or hunting then the execution of the meal tends to be pretty seamless and it adds to the occa sion On top of that, taking the time to get to know your local produce builds a greater respect for it

THE ISL AND

Tim Cuff | The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn 250.725.3100

Go to the butcher, order a suckling pig, and throw it on the BBQ Spit roast it basting it with beer and herbs Once it is finished ser ve it with buttered baby potatoes, scallions rus tic salads and whole loaves of bread You could probably throw on a platter of cheeses with fig jam on the table as well

Margot Bodchon | Calm Waters Restaurant at the Tin Wis Resor t Lodge 250 725 4447

I feel that food brought for th from a First Nations traditional atmosphere of honour, kindness, and welcome helps to ensure a truly transcendent food experience for the guest I try and incorporate the same practice when having guests to my home and an example of a stress free winter meal for me and my friends would include BBQ lamb brochettes with spicy pear chutney which is one of my all time favourites Kleco, Kleco feedback@eatmagazine ca