EAT Magazine 12-05 September|October 2008

F E A T U R E S

My Seattle

With the dollar near par there has never been a better time to visit.

By Shelora Sheldan + Treve Ring Pg 10 PART ON E OF AN ON GOI NG S E RI E S

Victoria’s Culinary DNA

Gillie Easdon takes us on a jouney of past restaurants and noted chefs Pg. 13

Tea cuisine

By Kathryn McAree Pg 14

Sweet Lily

The bulb of the beautiful purple camas lily traditionally cooked for up to 24 hours in a steaming hot food pit were once a vital staple of the First Nation diet, economy and culture

By Elizabeth Smyth Pg 19

This issue is devoted to the new and the old, celebrating the good in the past but looking forward to the future. Take Jennifer Danter’s Local Kitchen. By creating an autumn dinner from local produce, she returns to a time when that was the only way to cook. No “flown in” Nova Scotia lobster (good as it is), Jennifer’s menu is sourced from local farms and producers just the way Grandma might have Yet there are many touches of 2008

As if to take this local, seasonal philosophy even fur ther, cookbook author and chef Bill Jones shows us how to put up fruits and vegetables for the winter This “old is new” trend is being picked up by chefs across the country but, oh, the results are decidedly non traditional! How about opening a jar of Rainier Cherries in Vodka or Tomatoes with Lemon and G arlic in February?

In another feature, Gillie Easdon salutes our culinary past by delving deep into the history and lore of Victoria restaurants and EAT gives out its first ever Local Food & Drink Hero Award. To cover this large subject I’ve divided the story into readable chunks with each chapter appearing in a subsequent issue. Also along those lines is a multi authored feature on our ongoing love affair with Seattle Finally, the Canuk buck is at par and, always on the look out for a good food bargain, we make five visits to this relaxed and unpretentious city to our south Read on, try the recipes, visit our adver tisers and send us your emails

G ary Hynes, Editor

EAT CELEBRATING FOOD & DRINK

Editor in Chief G ary Hynes

Vancouver Editor Andrew Morrison, Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman

Editorial Assistant Katie Zdybel

Local Repor ters

Victoria: Katie Zdybel

Nanaimo: Su Grimmer

Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer

Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers

Vancouver: Andrew Morrison Okanagan: Jennifer Schell Pigott

Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, Mara Jernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Mar tin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, Shelora Sheldan, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Chris Mason Stearns, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman

Ar t Direction G ary Hynes

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Adver tising: Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), G ary Hynes (agencies, regional and national)

250 384 9042, adver tise@eatmagazine.ca

All depar tments Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250 384 9042, fax. 250 384 6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com

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T 1: -menu, ng shari ng spri shar of y a arr ar spectacul e... tabl e whol the s i ng! Shari 4 EAT MAGA ZINE S E PTE M B E R | OCTOB E R 2008

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Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year No par t of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher Although every effor t is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the ar ticles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher Pacific Island Gourmet reser ves the right to refuse any adver tisement All rights reser ved

Sun - Wed 11:30 - 10:00 Thurs - Sat 11:30 - 1:00 I

Come taste our new spring sharing menu, where we feature a spectacular array of share plates for the whole table... San u k is Sharing! www.sanukinfusion.com

Sept 5 7 ALPINE FOO D FEST IVAL on MT WA SHINGTON

Kicks off with an alpine cocktail reception; from there take your pick of events Cooking classes, a local foods marketplace, wild blue berry and edible forest walking tours, the Alpine to Valley G ala Dinner, and a wild blue berry cooking competition, all on beautiful M t Washington www mountwashington ca for more information on tickets and accom modations.

Sept 6 FRA SER VALLEY WINERIES WINE & CULINARY EXTRAVAGANZA

Fraser Valley’s winemakers, food ar tisans, and favourite local eateries come together to cre ate an afternoon of impeccable food and wine Live music and the valley’s natural beauty round out the event Highpoint Equestrian Es tate Community, 2pm 5pm Tickets are $50 plus tax and are available at www.fvwa.ca.

Sept 13 WINEMAKERS DINNER IN BUTCHART GARDENS

Hobnob with island vintners and farmers be fore sitting down to a five course menu in Vic toria’s most beloved garden Begins at 6pm These dinners have been popular; for reser va tions call 250 652 4422

learn viticulture from the growers right out in the field. $799 per person includes elegant ac commodations, two dinners, two lunches, ac companying wine selections for meals and tastings, and transpor tation between semi nars and meals (oh, and the designer gum boots too) retreat@naramatabench com

Sept 13 STEWART FAMILY 100th ANNIVERSARY

HARVE ST G ATH E R I NG FAI R Spend an after noon strolling through Quails’ G ate Estate winery and enjoy a bustling farmers market with live music and an assor tment of organic producers, local ar tisans, crafts and savoury food 10 AM 3 PM

CENTURY DINNER

Celebrate a century of pioneering history. With a “100 mile” theme dinner featuring Okanagan pur veyors, Quails’ G ate wines, live music and Stewar t Family hospitality. 6:30 3303 Boucherie Rd , Kelowna, 1 250 769 4451, quailsgate com

Sept 14 PA SSION S BENEFIT FOR DR.PETER AIDS FOUNDATION

A small gala with lots of hear t Nosh prepared by some of Vancouver’s best chefs benefiting the Dr Peter AI DS foundation 6pm 9pm Tick ets are $200, available at 604 331 3452 or www.drpetercentre.ca.

Sept 15-16 NARAMATA UNFILTERED WINE EDUC ATION RETREAT

Heaven for winelovers, this retreat marries wine appreciation with education Classes on identifying keynotes and wine pairing from award winning winemakers in the midst of some of the most stunning wine country in Nor th America Pull on your gumboots and

Sept 20

SATURNA ISL AND WINERY HARVEST CELEBRATION

Only the Gulf Islands can pull off a festival with both wine tastings and tug of wars. Jump into the grape stomping competition, chow on gourmet fare, and boogie to Jim Foster and the Rockin’ Hoo Doos! Sounds like a slice. Contact the winery at 250 539 3521 or 250 539 5139

Sept 20

21 COWICHAN WINE CULINARY FESTIVAL

The weekend overfloweth with Cowichan bon vivant Take your pick: wine and chocolate gala, champagne brunch at the Oceanfront Grand, complimentary tastings at many Cowichan wineries, a Saturday night dance, farm tours, hayrides, theatre under the stars, outstanding locavore fare, and original ar t and music such as the Cowichan Horn Quar tet www.wines.cowichan.net provides more info and helps you with accommodations too

Sept 21 FE A ST OF FIELDS at VICTORIAN EPICURE VINEYARD

This perennial favourite is the jewel of Autumn festivals. A sophisticated, all encompassing gastronomic picnic that celebrates the bounty of the fall har vest, it is also a key fundraiser for the brilliant FarmFolk/CityFolk Society. The 11th Annual Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will take place at the Victorian Epicure Vine yard in Nor th Saanich. Tickets on sale now. www feastoffields com

Sept 27

OKTOBERFEST at OT TAVIO’S

The good folks at Ottavio’s do know how to throw a par ty Join them for sausages and saurkraut by G alloping Goose Sausuages, a mustard tasting, hot Bavarian pretzels, schni etzel, spatzle, and live accordion music And of course, German beer and wine www.ottaviovictoria.com. 250.592.4080

Sept 28

SALT SPRING ISL AND APPLE FESTIVAL

There will be 350 organic varieties for tasting at the festival, including the surprising red flesh apples Meet the growers, discover your favourite apple, and soak in the beauty of Salt Spring in September www saltspringmarket com/apples

October 2nd 12th OK ANAG AN FALL WINE FESTIVAL www thewinefestivals com MOR E EVE NTS ON TH E N E XT PAGE

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village proudly presents: The Cooking and Lifestyle Centre, our new modern cooking and teaching facility located in our beautiful Thrifty Foods Tuscany store.

You can learn how to create delicious dishes through instruction, demonstration and hands-on practice with other culinary enthusiasts.

• Cooking classes for all skill levels

• Private, catered “foodie” parties

• Corporate Team Building

• Wellness Seminars

• And much, much more! Visit us online at www.thriftyfoods.com or call Eva our Cooking and Lifestyle Coordinator at 250-483-1222 or 1-866-751-1222

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village 1626 McKenzie Ave Victoria, BC www.thriftyfoods.com

LEMONY BLUEBERRY CHEESETART

finale.

1 cup (250 mL) mascarpone cheese,softened 5tablespoons (75 mL) lemon curd,divided

1(9-inch/23 cm) pie crust,baked and cooled 2cups (500 mL) fresh blueberries

In a small bowl,stir together cheese and 3(50 mL) tablespoons of the lemon curd until smooth;spread in the pie shell.In a bowl,gently stir the blueberries and the remaining 2 tablespoons (25 mL) lemon curd.Spoon the blueberries evenly over the mascarpone layer.Cover and chill 2 hours.YIELD:8 slices

...STILL IN SEASON

Are you passionate about food? Are you interested in learning how to live a healthier lifestyle?

Indulge your fresh blueberry craving now with this sweet

FIRST ANNUAL VICTORIA LOC AL FOOD FEST SET TO TAKE ROOT

Common Energy, in conjunction with over 20 local groups, will be launching the first ever Victoria Local Food Fest for 2008 Star ting September 7th 26th Victorians will be able to immerse themselves in the world of the 100 Mile Diet by signing up to become ‘locavores’, pledging to eat local, seasonal food for the duration of the festival. Par ticipants will receive a ‘Locavore Festival Guide’ containing lists and information on local produce, farmers’ markets, par tner organizations, box delivery programs in Victoria, as well as listings to the many events taking place throughout the festival.

Events will take place across the city and will include speaker series; bike to the farm brigades; local and seasonal cooking classes; workshops on gardening, composting, and canning/food preser vation; food related movie and discussion nights, greendrinks, seed saving workshops, forums on the state of our local food system and its solutions, and much more “We’re really excited about this event and hope to get as many people involved as possible,” said Joe Melton, lead organizer of the festival. “ The festival is designed to make it as easy as possible to discover the many wonders of eating locally and its benefits, whether that includes healthier eating, helping to reduce the carbon footprint of your everyday food choices, or suppor ting the local economy and community.”

Events for the festival are free of charge to par ticipants and there will be a final dinner celebration and dance showcasing many of the delicious local food and drinks Victoria has to offer. For more information visit the festival website at www.victorialocalfoodfest.ca.

Oct

4 & 5 SHOP THE WILD FESTIVAL

at Royal Roads University offers the perfect oppor tunity to learn about the benefits of going green and choosing local come and enjoy fresh and delicious wild edibles direct from B C’s farms and forests and explore the rich variety of 'goods from the woods' that producers have to offer. This is a free public event with over 50 exhibitors, wild food demos, guided nature walks and musical en ter tainment its fun for the whole family!

www buybcwild com/shop wild

Greg Evans Discuss brews, food pairings, and the ‘unbuttoned’ social history of drinking and local prohibition lore of Vancouver Island The ship takes anchors at off the beaten path places for nature walks and wildlife sightings. Local grub, such as cream ale apple fritters and Salt Spring Island lamb complement ale tastings.

www mapleleafadventures com for details

Oct

23 27 SLOW FOOD’S SALONE DEL GUSTO in TORINO, ITALY

At a time when modern locavorism has be come hip, its impor tant to remember the path cutting revolutionaries. Salone del Gusto is one of the world’s largest and oldest celebra tions of modern artisan and local foods Spend a little time at www.salonedelgusto.com to ac quaint yourself with the scope of this event, or if you’re lucky enough, spring for a ticket to Torino.

Oct 23 SOIREES AT MEL A’S TEAROOM

"The Marriage of Wine and Dessert" with Larry Arnold (EAT star and scribe). From 7 pm to 9 pm and include light refreshments $35/soiree; $130 for all four 796 Humboldt Street, Victoria, tel: 250 382 7750.

Oct 23-29 TALL SAILS AND ALES ONBOARD THE MAPLE LEAF

A 6 day sail into the crannies of the Gulf Is lands with stops for beer tastings and conver sations over pitchers with historian and guide

Oct 28 THE ALMA DE ESPANA/FLEMENCO DE L A ISL A SOCIET Y is holding their annual fundraising event, "A Taste Of Spain" Fla menco Feria at the elegant Coast Harbourside Hotel. Spanish tapas will be ser ved stuffed peppers, devilled eggs with caviar, spicy chorizo, Spanish prawns, crab dip and lots more. There will be a dazzling dance performance, no host bar and silent auction Tickets: $45 and $35 for members Info: 384 8832. www.almadeespana.com

Oct 30 L A GAVROCHE WINEMAKER DINNER with Tinhorn Creek, Vancouver, 604 685 3924 November 6th 10th WHISTLER CORNUCOPIA www whistler com/cornucopia

More events and updates are covered in Tapas, the biweekly e-letter from EAT. Subscription is free and can be cancelled at any time. Click on the Tapas icon at www.eatmagazine.ca to sign up for your small plate of EAT.

Send your event listing to news@eatmagazine.ca

No More Lunchbox Lament

With a little creativity and ingenuity, parents can get kids eating omega 3 fatty acids and antioxidants impor tant for growing brains.

To the delight of parents across B C , another school year has begun While this an nual ritual elicits sighs of relief from mom and dad, it also heralds the return of a fa miliar problem “the lunchbox dilemma ” Parents are often at their wits end coming up with healthy lunchbox ideas their kids will actually eat. Given the scientifically confirmed correlation between nutrition and scholastic performance, providing children with the nu trients they need to power them through a school day IS crucial, but it need not be a chal lenge. Thankfully, researchers have helped us pinpoint exactly which foods we should be packing in junior’s lunchbox. In fact, recent studies show that cer tain foods are par ticularly effective in enhancing children’s cognitive function. Here are some top picks.

OMEGA 3’s

Omega 3 fatty acids are healthy fats found in cold water, fatty fish (salmon and tuna), wal nuts, flaxseeds, hemp seeds and salba (a new “super seed”) An impor tant player in bol stering cognitive function, these fatty acids help the brain development of young children and can improve learning and behavioural difficulties Try making fish more “kid friendly” by mixing it up with low fat mayo and chopped pickle and stuffing it into whole grain pita or wraps. If they refuse to touch fish, go the nut and seed route. Mix walnuts with grapes and sliced apples, make their favourite sandwich with flax bread or add 2 tsp. of salba to yogurt within minutes it puffs up and turns yogurt into pudding! For older kids, replace the salba with hemp seeds they love its illicit cache. Nuts and seeds can also be added to lunchbox favourites like salads, banana bread and muffins.

ANTIOXIDANTS

Fruits and vegetables high in antioxidants have been linked to improved memory and brain function Unfor tunately, statistics show the average Canadian child is falling shor t of the daily recommendation for these nutritious foods The provincial government is so concerned it has initiated a “school fruit and vegetable snack program” under the umbrella of ActNow BC But parents should be doing their par t too Simple suggestions: pair fresh cut veggies with bean dips or salsa, make homemade quickbreads with antioxidant rich veggies (pump kin, zucchini, sweet potato, carrot) and sweeten with nutrient dense dried fruits. Or incor porate your child’s favourite vegetables into soups and sauces, grating in additional vegetables they’re likely not to notice!

EGGS

Incredible, edible and good for the brain? Absolutely eggs are the richest food source of choline, an essential nutrient linked to improved memory and learning Recent research from the University of Nor th Carolina indicates that the current recommended intake of choline may not be enough for some people to function at their best In addition to choline, eggs provide significant amounts of energy producing B vitamins, protein and if you buy free range omega 3 fatty acids Entice your child to eat eggs by making crustless quiche with their favourite cheese and vegetable fillings, cut egg salad sandwiches into “fun shapes” with a cookie cutter or top Scotch eggs with your child’s favourite spice

WHOLE GRAINS

Whole grain carbohydrates contain folate and other B vitamins that help improve memory function and provide a steady stream of energy so your child can stay aler t all day If sand wiches are the mainstay of your child’s lunch, switch to 100 percent whole grain breads But remember, kids love variety instead of using bread every day, try whole grain bagels, pitas or fajita wraps Whole grain pasta or rice salads also make a nice change from sandwiches

C ALCIUM RICH FOODS

Milk, cheese, yogur t and other foods rich in calcium improve the function of ner ves. Yogur t is par ticularly abundant in tyrosine, an amino acid responsible for the production of the neurotransmitters dopamine and noradrenalin. In plain English yogur t can improve your child’s aler tness and memory. Non dairy foods rich in calcium include for tified soy and rice milks, canned salmon, sesame seeds, leafy greens, figs and oranges.

IRON-RICH FOODS

A deficiency in iron has been proven to be the most common cause of poor concentration, decreasing intelligence and slow thinking processes Lean sources of red meat, poultry, spinach, legumes and dried fruits are excellent choices for a child’s lunchbox If your finicky little eater hates meat, make child pleasing homemade trail mix with dried apricots, raw al monds, whole grain cereal and black currants.

And just before you close that lunchbox, make sure you include something liquid staying well hydrated is crucial in preventing fatigue and poor concentration But skip the sugary sodas and fruit “beverages” and opt for low fat milk, for tified soymilk or plain old H20

In Praise of Pumpkin

Those big, beautiful orange orbs are so much more than just jack-o’-lanterns and punkin pie.

Salad of Arugula, Feta, Red Onion, Pear and Pepitas

As a child I connected pumpkin to fantasy; it was Cinderella’s humble “ b e f o r e a n d a f t e r t h e b a l l ” carriage, the jack o’ lantern, and the place where Peter, Peter Pumpkin Eater put his wife (the nursery rhyme is rooted in Ameri can soil, as is the pumpkin). The fact that I could/would eat the flesh of this giant orange orb never occurred to me.

When my family emigrated from England, mom adopted the famous Thanksgiving pie into the holiday household, cour tesy of spiced tinned filling I loved the custard pie and swooned over my first taste of pump kin cheesecake Still, I didn’t really associ ate eating sweet pumpkin desser ts with the actual squash. When the penny did drop, the idea of cutting and slicing a pumpkin seemed daunting.

Until I saw the Italians do it. They hacked easily into the pumpkin, discarded its wet inner strings, fingers separating out the white seeds (that’s a chore) for roasting, cubed or scooped out the sweet flesh then boiled it, pureed it and canned it Not for pie but for stuffing ravioli or tor tellini Tossed with brown butter and fried sage, this dish scores high on my list of pasta favourites.

Then came “Spitz” packets of roasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds, which, as teens, we hulled with our teeth, strewing shells about pavement, playground and poolside

After that the pumpkin faded from fabled and edible glory. But it’s back in my culinary world.

Pumpkin, and par ticularly hulled, roasted “pepitas” (the Mexican word for pumpkin seeds), are fashionable right now, perhaps due to new found health benefits (prostate health, good for bones, natural anti inflam matory) I toss the nutty, slightly sweet dark green seeds into salads and homemade muffins, on cereal, soup (try pumpkin peanut butter) and chowders especially corn and potato. When it comes to the pumpkin’s flesh, I think most folks still talk sweet. I’ve come to like it savoury. Here are a few recipes for unsweetened pumpkin and/or pepitas (Butternut squash is a fine substitute) Look for white or green striped pumpkins (best for baking) at farmers’ mar kets

To make this crunchy medley, toss 4 cups baby arugula or spinach with two cups curly endive lightly in classic vinaigrette (3 par ts oil whisked with 1 par t lemon juice; salt, pepper and a touch of mustard) Dot greens with thin slices of red onion, cubed not crumbled feta (I recommend Moonstruck feta from Salt Spring Island), slivers of Bar tlett pear, and a good fistful of roasted pumpkin seeds. Por tion on plates and splash on a little vinaigrette. (I added crou tons made from the billowy pumpkin corn meal bread featured Wednesdays at the Old Town Bakery in Ladysmith )

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Soup

This soup is adapted from The New Basics Cookbook, Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, Workman Publishing, 1989

Melt half a stick of butter in a soup pot over medium heat Stir in 4 cups pumpkin, 2 cups mashed sweet potato, 1 cup smooth natural peanut butter (such as Adams) Add 6 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock), salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and sim mer for twenty minutes. Ser ve in bowls. G arnish with pepitas, a swirl of crème fraîche (or yogur t), chopped chives and a few chili flakes (optional)

PUMPKIN MUSTARD RELISH

Try it with roast turkey (or pork), or on goat cheese “toasts.” Adapted from a Gourmet magazine recipe, November 2006

Toss 2 lb peeled* and cubed (1/2 inch) pumpkin with 1 cup sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl Let stand one hour, stir ring occasionally Chill covered for 8 hours (Sugar will liquefy.) Simmer pumpkin with 1 cup water and 1/2 cup dry white wine in a large pot until pumpkin is tender (about 10 minutes). With a slotted spoon, remove pumpkin and put in a bowl Add 1/2 cup golden raisins Boil and reduce liquid to 1 cup, pour and whisk into a bowl containing 2 Tbsp dry mustard Stir mustard mixture into pumpkin mixture Cool, chill for at least 8 hours Bring relish to room temperature for ser ving.

Roasted Vegetable Stew Ser ved in Roasted Pumpkin

You’ll find this recipe at epicurious.com (search “pumpkin stew”) or in the November 2007 issue of Gourmet.

*Half or quar ter pumpkin to fit microwave Cook for a few minutes on low to soften skin and make peeling easier

seaside

sunshine & sunsets

Casual coastal cuisine on the best oceanfront patios in the heart of Victoria’s wine country.

It’s not a million miles away...it just feels like it.

www.seagrille.ca

BRENTWOOD BAY LODGE & SPA

My Seattle

From long established restaurants, to bistros etched out of the tiniest spaces, to a few corpo rate behemoths, dining in Seattle is always an in spiration The concepts are fresh and well thought out, with great design, exper t ser vice and cooking that is, more often than not, exemplary I’ve got my favourite haunts some of which I will never reveal but on every trip to Seattle, I try to discover some new jewel or dine somewhere I’ve long heard about These four places have been the focus of my most recent explorations

Serious Pie

Tom Douglas’s restaurant empire continues to dazzle, this time with a place called Serious Pie located around the corner from his Dahlia Lounge This warm room in natural stone and wood with wrought iron chandeliers and a gorgeous wood burning pizza oven offers eight styles of pie, baked to order, with supremo ingredients House cured meats like guanciale pair up with a soft egg and dandelion greens, or pork belly with apples and black pepper Sliced Yukon gold potatoes with rosemary and olive oil is one of my all time favourites, as is the roasted wild mushrooms with truffle cheese My par tner and I have had several sessions here, one involving two pizzas each! The crust is perfect, not too thick or too thin, with good structure Star ters of organic salads with mus catel vinaigrette, a selection of olives, or calamari with mussels and Meyer lemon, change seasonally and with the Pike Place market a few blocks away with what’s fresh. The wine and beer list is small but equally serious.

Top Pot Doughnuts

I never eat doughnuts unless I’m in Seattle. My usual Top Pot stop in Belltown looks very mid century library with floor to ceiling wood shelves, but so retro with its neon cowboy lighting up the exterior. This sugary oasis offers the classic crullers, the glazed, the old fashioned as well as an array of decked out hole in ones with names like chocolate rainbow, pink rainbow (pink icing with multi coloured sprinkles) or chocolate feathered boa with coconut standing in for feathers Coffee is local roast, and T shir ts and other souvenir paraphernalia are tempting but so is an extra doughnut. If none of Top Pots’ three locations are close enough, Starbucks redeems itself by selling Top Pot baked goods exclusively And it’s a great way to finally use up those Starbucks gift cards Brasa

I’m always on the lookout for a good happy hour and Brasa comes as a pleasant surprise Headed up by chef Tamara Murphy a James Beard award winner and ex of Campagne the menu is a beautiful work of French and lusty Mediterranean The half price bar menu ser ved nightly from five to seven is a chance to become acquainted with this seven year old establishment. From steak frites with salad, pizzas, paella, lamb burgers or Moroccan steaks, nothing is over $7. We enjoyed the lamb burger, grilled to medium with feta cheese and a mustard aioli on a brioche With a glass of wine from their well chosen list and a micro brew, we left happy and added Brasa to our return visit list

Canlis

I’m all for casual fine dining, bistros and small plates enjoyed at the bar, but sometimes a clas sic formal dining experience is what’s needed for a special occasion such as a bir thday (my par t ner’s). Canlis fits the bill. From its lofty location overlooking Lake Union, the restaurant, opened by Peter Canlis in 1950, has enjoyed more than half a century ser ving the dining public With nu merous awards throughout the years celebrating its excellence in all aspects of being a restau rant, Canlis’s ser vice standards are one of the most recognized.

It’s clearly evident as soon as we pulled into the driveway of this 1950s Frank Lloyd Wright in spired building Valets awaited, the door swiftly opened and we were ushered into the room where an immense stone fireplace welcomed us. The room of cedar beams and stone columns was open and airy with sloped glass windows providing mountain and water views The place was packed yet had an air of calm, like walking into the home of a dear friend

At the head of this smoothly running machine is third generation Mark Canlis. Having not only grown up in the business, the 33 year old fur thered his exper tise with a 10 year stint at the side of famed New York restaurateur Danny Meyer, another proponent of customer ser vice and em ployee respect.

The current Canlis “family” extends to 87 employees with four sommeliers and 16 staff with wine cer tification, including Mark and two of the chefs. Many staff have been here for as long as 27 years, and every day, employees dine together before dinner ser vice

With coats removed, we were ushered through the bar, where a pianist tickled the ivories, and shown to our table. We began with cocktails, perfectly wrought four ounce mar tinis delivered by the bar tender!

Canlis’s culinary history saw the bir th of Nor thwest cuisine, and the kitchen continues to excel by using micro seasonal ingredients and working with local pur veyors. The cooking is French technique with lots of modern flourishes The menu is a delightful selection of warm and cold ap petizers, entrees, including Wagyu beef, a changing tasting menu, along with a few classic dishes that will never disappear. The Canlis salad, for example, of romaine, bacon, Romano cheese, fresh mint and oregano tossed in lemon, olive oil and a coddled egg has been offered since they first opened their doors and is still a hit. It was voted one of the best dishes in America by Saveur magazine My par tner went with the chef ’s tasting menu of five courses with wine pairing I stayed with the salad and the Canlis prawns, sautéed with dry vermouth, lime and chilies, an other mainstay.

The salad, a take on the Caesar, had lively hits of mint and bacon to give it backbone The prawns were perfect with a balance of flavours Highlights from the tasting menu were the Maine lobster tail, shelled and poached in butter, served over a cauliflower puree with soy tobiko. Com for tingly rich and delicate, it was perfectly paired with a Jade Mountain Napa Viognier A cran berry and lime sorbet was a delightful palate cleanser, and desser t of kabocha cheesecake was aligned with the season, ser ved with pomegranate and a gingerbread and hazelnut tuile.

Throughout the evening, various employees came to our table to wish my par tner happy bir th day. It wasn’t cheesie or uncomfor table. They didn’t want to be our best friend, or otherwise chat us up. It was professional and exceedingly elegant.

As the light through the floor to ceiling windows faded to black, the black attired wait staff seemingly blended into that blackness, lending a more subtle presence to the room. On my way back from the ladies room, someone was there to return me to my table A wine question was handled by several sommeliers working the room, the waiter’s assistants took away plates, han dled water, set places everyone had their duties but worked together, never missing a beat. The ser vice was so seamless, I just wanted to curl up at its feet and purr

If You Go

Serious Pie, 316 Virginia St , 206 838 7388, www tomdouglas com

Top Pot Doughnuts, 2124 5th Ave., 206 728 1966, www.toppotdoughnuts.com

Brasa, 2107 Third Ave., 206 728 4220, www.brasa.com

Canlis, 2576 Aurora Ave N , 206 283 3313, www canlis com

Shelora Sheldan’s Seattle Serious pies, even more serious doughnuts and a seriously great birthday dinner at a Seattle classic.

Part one of a series on Seattle, Pike Place and Tacoma by 5 BC writers.

Canlis: Poached Lobster Claw

Serious Pie: Clam Pizza

Top Pot: Old fashioned donuts

My Seattle

Think of Seattle and Vancouver as typecast siblings. Just like normal families (i e , Susie is the athletic one, Billy is the screw up, etc.), Seattle is obvi ously the older, more cultured, political type suit wearing, corporate climbing, Lexus driving. Vancouver, by contrast, is younger ar tsy, eco conscious, athletic Of course, just as with all siblings, these gener alizations are broad and sweeping.

But there are enough similarities between Vancouver and Seattle to see that they’re of the same lineage, what with their strong local wine scene, fer vour for locavores, and (of course) rain.

I make a point of getting down to Seattle a few times each year Whether by car (Nexus is a lifesaver), by Victoria Clipper (no fuss, har bour to harbour ser vice) or Kenmore Air (the prettiest 40 minute floatplane you’ll ever take), the Emerald City lures me down. Be sides the obligatory stop at organic nir vana Whole Foods (where I hope to live one day), and checking into either the ultra cool and ar ty Hotel Max or the luxurious and chic Alexis Hotel, I’ve a few other must stops.

Before I leave, I make a reser vation for Dahlia Lounge Its crimson red walls and lantern lit ceilings, open kitchen and celebrity Iron Chef Tom Douglas make for a winning formula Douglas, a James Beard winner, is one of the forerunners of Pacific Nor thwest cuisine in the city and has some five down town restaurants to prove it Dahlia’s region ally inspired, ever changing menu excites, as does the wine list, with numerous hard to find Washington producers and small lots Flip directly to the last page of the list for bin end gems You’ll see people waxing poetic over their menu mainstays crab cakes, coconut cream pie, mini doughnuts and I can attest to their cult status If the window booths are taken, sit at the bar, in the midst of it all, and enjoy some Washington Syrah with Dahlia’s fresh baked breads and spreads ... ahh. This is how my Seattle visits kick off.

Another local crusader synonymous with Pacific Nor thwest cuisine is chef Kerry Sear His Belltown restaurant Cascadia is named for the abundance of ingredients he locally sources. Chef Sear highlights organic, hor mone free product and has a gift for elevating the norm to great heights Take his signature mini burgers. Available in the bar, these

super sliders are made to order from fresh ground hangar steaks and topped with tiny tomato rounds, carmelized red onions, fresh pickle and lettuce all sitting atop the cutest little buns They make an addictive par tner alongside the well crafted mar tinis and soar ing floor to ceiling windows onto 1st Avenue Sear’s monthly three course menu is an ab solute steal at $35 per person. If you’re lucky enough to be there when they have Douglas Fir Sorbet on the menu, do not pass it up Restaurant manager/sommelier Jeff Lindsay Thorsen has put together a thoughtful, well priced wine list that’s heavy on local producers, and he is always happy to point out his favourite local gems

A few blocks down 1st Avenue but worlds away is Le Pichet. Think Seattle’s version of Brasserie l’Ecole, but with the added bonus of being open for breakfast and lunch. That is, if you can sneak a seat in this thin room (don’t pass up a seat at the bar) Hands down winner for best value in town, this cheerfully crowded bistro features housemade pâté, baked eggs and jambon and authentic French bread. The wine list always amazes with spe cial bottles at prices so raisonnable, you’ll feel as if you’re stealing them. Breakfast here, with super strong caffe au lait, is a must do.

Shifting from French country fare to Span ish tapas, one night out must be devoted to Har vest Vine The open kitchen welcomes you to the smells and sounds of chef/owner Jose Jimenez de Jimenez’s beloved Basque re gion An unwavering commitment to authen ticity and devotion to ingredients ensures a ravenously loyal following. The creative tapas are matched perfectly by an outra geously enticing wine list that’s rich with Spanish bottles and sherries not seen else where The best seat in the house is upstairs, in the bar; you have command over the entire restaurant and the smells of the kitchen en ticingly waft up to tempt you

Sources on pg 12.

Treve Ring’s ’s Seattle a crowded bistro, Basque and a $35 steal.

Part two of a series on Seattle

Dahlia Lounge: Coconut Pie Le Pichet

Har vest Vine

THE COVER RECIPE

Sage Roasted Quail with a Pear, Blue Cheese and Walnut Tar t

Here’s an autumn feast that could be ser ved for Thanksgiving as an alternative to turkey. The quail used in this recipe came from BC’s Hills Foods, pur veyor of organic meats, game meats and specialty poultry The quail are available at specialty butcher shops To learn more about this company, visit hillsfoods com

For the tar ts:

4 (3 inch round) vol au vent (see Note) 125 grams blue cheese, crumbled 1/3 cup walnuts pieces

2 tsp lemon juice

1 large, ripe pear

1 Tbsp melted butter

1 tsp honey

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set a vol au vent on a work surface. Use a rolling pin to roll the vol au vent into a 5 inch circle. Place on the baking sheet. Repeat with re maining vol au vent. Top each vol au vent with half the walnuts and blue cheese, evenly dispersing them.

Place the lemon juice in a medium bowl Cut the pear, lengthwise, into quar ters and re move the core Cut each quar ter pear into slices, set in the bowl, and toss to coat Fan an equal amount of the pear slices on top of each tar t Combine the melted butter and honey in a small bowl and brush over the pears Top the pears with the remaining blue cheese and walnuts Chill the tar ts for 10 minutes in the fridge

Preheat the oven to 375˚F Bake the tar ts 20 25 minutes, or until puffed and golden The tar ts could be baked a few hours in advance, cooled to room temperature, and stored in the fridge until ready to reheat and ser ve with the quail.

Note: Vol au vent, also called patty shells, is made from puff pastry. They are available in the freezer section of most supermarkets; thaw before using.

For the quail:

8 quails

2 Tbsp melted butter

2 Tbsp chopped fresh sage

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/3 cup red wine

1 cup chicken stock mixed 1 Tbsp flour

Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Tie the legs of each quail together and tuck the wings under the body Trim the neck off each quail if still attached (roast them alongside the quail to help boost the flavour of the sauce) Set the quail in a shallow roasting pan and brush with the melted butter; sprinkle with the sage, salt and pepper Roast the quail 25 minutes, or until golden and just cooked through Transfer to a plate and tent with foil

Set the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium high heat Set the tar ts back in the oven to warm. Add the wine to the roasting pan, bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add the stock/flour mixture, bring to a simmer, a simmer until the sauce is lightly thickened, and then season with salt and pepper.

To ser ve, set a tar t on each of 4 heated plates. Set 2 quail beside each tar t; ladle some sauce alongside and ser ve.

“

Quail can be a little tricky to cook It should be left slightly under cooked but in order to get the colour on the skin of the bird, I usually paint it with a thin layer of honey. When the blow torch is applied, the browning effect becomes dramatic. Nico Landis, My Gastronomy, 1987.

If You Go (Treve’s Seattle) from Page 11)

Cascadia Restaurant, 2328 1st Ave., 206 448 8884, cascadiarestaurant.com Dahlia Lounge, 2001 4th Ave , 206 682 4142, tomdouglas com/dahlia Har vest Vine, 2701 East Madison, 206 320 9771, har vestvine com Le Pichet, 1933 1st Ave , 206 256 1499, www lepichetseattle com Hotel Max, 620 Stewar t St., 206 728 6299,hotelmaxseattle.com Alexis Hotel, 1007 1st Ave., 206 624 4844, alexishotel com Kenmore Air kenmoreair com Victoria Clipper

clipper vacations com Whole Foods, 2210 Westlake Ave , wholefoodsmarket com

Victoria’s Culinary DNA

When I embarked on this mission to explore and document the evolution of Victo ria’s restaurant scene over the past 30 years, I was eager, excited and, quite frankly, naïve I was mesmerized by the prospect of tracking and recording this in tricate web and wealth of culinary offerings. I assumed there would be some sor t of list doc umenting restaurant openings and closings and a wealth of well organized, concise, readily available material. I went to the library. I called the Vancouver Island Health Authority and the British Columbia Restaurant and Food Ser vices Association. I spent an afternoon at City Hall being passed from person to person. Gradually, I came to realize that the only way to trace this rich, complex and manifold history was to inter view And inter view And inter view Over

In the beginning: Sooke Harbour House

In the late 1970s, local dining just meant running into a friend or two It had nothing to do with the sourcing of regional produce except in the minds of one couple: a political science PhD and a French woman with ties to the French Riviera hospitality industry, Sinclair and Frederique Philip They moved to the Island and pur chased a modest, five room accommodation house in Sooke, which, at that time, was the middle of nowhere. In 1979, they opened Sooke Harbour House, with dinner star ting at five o’clock, much to Euro pean Frederique’s self professed “shock.” Armed with a clear vision, the pair sought out local farmers and seafood. They began to grow their own herbs and vegetables “Are you mad?” was the common response, Frederique shares with a grin However, genius and in sanity are often confused, and Sooke Harbour House, with its strict edicts on local food only, became not only somewhere, it became “where to go ”

A resplendent, 28 room, internationally acclaimed destination, Sooke Harbour House has enjoyed the company and talents of chefs such as Pia Carroll (now an Edward Milne Culinary Program instruc tor), James Walt (Araxi in Whistler), Michael Stadtlander (Eigensinn Farm), Peter Zambri (Zambri’s), David Feyes (Feyes + Hobbs Catered Ar ts Inc ) and currently the great Edward Tuson (An interesting foot note: Peter Zambri and David Feyes both apprenticed at the Wind sor Arms in Toronto at the same time but didn’t meet until they worked together at Sooke Harbour House ) The restaurant’s multi award winning wine cellar would put the god Bacchus to shame Sinclair is a Canadian representative for the international Slow Food movement and was a co founder of the Vancouver Island chap ter of Slow Food. Eating locally is no longer an obscure penchant of epicureans and eccentrics, it is now de rigueur. Nine years ago, and 20 years after the Philips opened their restaurant, a collective of chefs founded the Island Chefs’ Collaborative (ICC) to promote and proliferate relationships with local farmers and secure high quality, locally grown ingredients (the current president is Ken Hueston of

Sept 21 22

C ANADIAN CHEF’S CONGRESS

its time

One

the past few months, during which I conducted 19 fruitful inter views, I compiled the follow ing piece. This is by no means comprehensive, nor could it be in few thousand words. There are too many people involved, too many branches to explore and too many stories. Mar vel lous, when you think about it, really. Nor is it written in a strict chronological order. People told me their stories, and I let those memories take me through what I now present to you: a large chunk of the backbone of Victoria’s restaurant history offered in an idiosyncratic fash ion All omissions fur ther ser ve to demonstrate how healthy, dynamic and vast the scene re ally is Thanks to all who made time during your busy days to impar t your experiences Now, let’s head back to the 1970s

Eat Magazine Presents

Next in the series: Marvellous mall: Zambri’s and In the French Manner

LOCAL FOOD & DRINK GREEN STAR HEROES

Sooke Harbour House

We are pleased to introduce you to our new tribute to the heroes of our local food system The Green Star is awarded to those individuals and businesses that champion the regions food and drink scene The full results of our effor ts will be revealed next spring with the release of Eat Magazine’s, Local Food and Drink: Victoria and Vancouver Island by Bill Jones and G ary Hynes

Chefs are the revolutionaries at the forefront of a movement that is trumpeting Canada’s food culture, intro ducing eaters to a new Canadian menu that appreciates native roots like never before Micheal Stadtlander, one of our country’s most respected chefs is throwing a massive par ty cum caucus for chefs everywhere (literally, everywhere, he’s got First Air to agree to fly in chefs from all the Nor thern territories) in Canada Stadtlander’s agenda is simple, “I want to connect chefs to each other; I want to meet chefs from Manitoba and Nunavut We know chefs in Toronto, BC, Alber ta, but there’s so much in between.” The Congress is meant to be a biennial event that takes place in a different region of the country every year At this year’s event four major meals, (including a 13 course lunch that reflects each of the provinces and terri tories), and panel discussions will mix with Stadtlander’s invitation to set up camp in his fields and join around the campfire with Jamie Kennedy providing the midnight snack, no less. The idea is for chefs from Victoria to Halifax to share ingredients and ideas as well as environmental con cerns about our food sources The event will be held on Stadtlander’s Eigensinn Farm in Singhampton, Ontario, Sept 21 to 22 A lot of big names will be there, but all chefs, farmers, gardeners, and others who are committed to the food business are encouraged to take par t in this event that hopes to shape the future of Canadian cuisine. General public is encouraged to attend the fundraisers and other preliminary events. Tickets and more event details can be found at www canadianchefscongress com

The first recipients of our award are fittingly Sinclair and Frederique Philip and the team at Sooke Harbour House (www sookeharbourhouse com) Sinclair is referred to as the godfather of the local, seasonal and ethical food movement in Canada and has been walking the green trail long before it was cool. Frederique is the stylistic and ar tistic director of the Inn and one of the most elegant people we know For over 20 years their philosophy of local products and suppor t of regional economics has been the mantra of the business The results have attracted global accolades, countless awards and built a unique and truly wonderful treas ure for our community. Congratulations to the team and accept our gratitude for your immense effor ts.

O n e w r i t e r e m b a r k s o n a n a p p r e c i a t i v e j o u r n e y t o u n c o v e r t h e l a b y r i n t h i n e matrix of people, places and cuisines that make up this small, food-obsessed city.

Par t

of a series by Gillie Easdon

Smoken Bones) Sooke Harbour House had definitely been ahead of

Tea Cuisine

By Kathr yn McAree

At Silk Road, tea, the world’s most popular beverage, is also the secret ingredient.

“ Think green tea white wine and black tea red wine.” Daniela Cubelic of Silk Road, a tea store and natural spa in down town Victoria, enthusiastically explains her personal epiphany about tea and cuisine. This may not be the standard tea teaching, but it is the first component of learning about the delicious par tnership of tea and cuisine

Cubelic, Silk Road’s co owner, is incredi bly knowledgeable when it comes to tea one of the purest ingredients on the planet and steeped in tradition. As a tea master trained by Chinese tea masters and herbal ists, Cubelic is humble and intriguing. When it comes to tea pairing and using tea as an ingredient, her depth of knowledge and comprehension is truly fascinating You can simply pair tea with cuisine, you can flavour your favourite recipes (think of tea as an herb), or you can get busy in the kitchen armed with some great new recipe ideas.

This first component is straightforward if not somewhat arbitrary. It works well when you think of what we generally enjoy with white wine: chicken, pork, fish These also work well with green tea, especially fish (the ultimate tea pairing is sushi and green tea) Black tea is more akin to red wine; both have more structure than white wine or green tea. Black tea pairs well with rich, oily and heavy foods. Think beef, duck, creamy pastas, or anything with an inten sity of flavours.

The second component is equally as sim ple Ask: what goes well together? Duck goes well with orange and smoke Pork is delicious with fruits like peach and mango

Cherry and chocolate are a perfect match. Whip up hot chocolate with Japanese Sour Cherry green tea. Make a marinade for duck with Canton Orange or Spicy Mandarin black tea or simply deglaze the pan with tea just as you would wine or stock Peach Par adise black tea would make a very nice rum and peach marinade with honey, great on pork tenderloin or even on baby potatoes and carrots If you think of tea as an herb, it’s easy to discover what might work well together.

Cubelic has developed many recipes using Silk Road loose leaf teas from sweet to savoury as well as a whole range of bev erages such as white wine sangria with hints of citrus and lemongrass and her sig nature mar tea nis like the Earl Green Tea tini with lime and gin My first experience with one of Cubelic’s recipes was a taste of chai latte ice cream on the World Feast Stage at FolkFest 2005. I was thoroughly impressed with her wealth of knowledge and the incredible flavour of the handmade ice cream. My next encounter was with Cubelic’s matcha green tea shor tbread at Christmas time and, more recently, the fab ulous Smoky Maple Salad Dressing created by chef Heidi Fink (recipe follows)

At Camille’s, co owner and chef David Mincey often uses tea as a primary ingredi ent in the kitchen of his west coast cuisine restaurant. Along with David’s par tner, Paige Robinson, Camille’s is a strong sup por ter of all that’s local in and around Vic toria You’ll find both Mincey and Robinson in Bastion Square every Thursday and Fri day, summer and fall, running the Island

Tea master Daniela Cubelic at her store on Government St. in Victoria

S h e r r i K o s t i a n

Chefs’ Collaborative market. It seems only natural that they’d wander down the street to Silk Road to shop for enhancing flavours “I thought I knew a fair bit about tea,” says Mincey, “until we decided to switch over Camille’s tea list and make it entirely from Silk Road Daniela’s suggestions were per fect … much the same way a sommelier would choose the right wine for a meal. It’s pretty amazing.” Cubelic is particularly fond of Camille’s Chai Tea Honey Cake.

Cubelic and co owner Nancy Larose have scores of inventive ideas using tea as a culi nary ingredient Use Hoji Cha, a Japanese roasted green tea, as a soup base Try Angel Water herbal tea to flavour white rice In stead of adding juice as a marinade for a fruit salad, flavour it with a cold tea like Ly chee Fruit black tea. “Velvet Potion really is a culinary tea,” says Cubelic. “I think of it as a liquid desser t.” She has created her lat est favourite recipe with this black tea con taining raw cocoa nibs. The Velvet Potion Popsicle is made with coconut milk and Bai leys Irish Cream liqueur. This does sound delicious!

Silk Road uses local ingredients when ever possible in its tea blends and enthusi astically works with local producers such as the Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse on the Saanich Peninsula in recipe creation. Cubelic makes an iced tea using Spicy Man darin black tea, Sea Cider’s Kings & Spies Italian style sparkling cider and a drop of Sea Cider Pommeau. Refreshing and full of flavour!

Far more than just a tea shop, Silk Road, located near the gates to Chinatown on Government Street in downtown Victoria, has a cult like following of customers who regularly refill their tins with house blended teas in more than 100 varieties. Cubelic and Larose source their teas often right from es

tates in faraway countries such as Japan, China, India, Darjeeling in nor thern India, even Tanzania “Cooking with tea also en hances the nutrient value of the food you’re cooking,” says Cubelic They even use tea in their natural spa treatments (that’s a whole other story)

To understand what Silk Road is all about, one must look back 16 years to the retail shop and spa’s inception. Their company logo is a calligraphic Chinese symbol that translates into various meanings such as blessing, prosperity, abundance and longevity This symbol, says Cubelic, is the core of what Silk Road is all about She ex plains the meaning as one that brings “blessing into people’s lives,” something Silk Road prides itself on.

“We embrace all things tea, exploring and educating customers about anything re lated to tea and tea culture.” Shoppers are greeted with a tea sample as soon as they walk in the door and are offered a second variety as they browse Cubelic’s team is well informed, always willing to spend time to familiarize you with the shop and intro duce you to their myriad products Their level of knowledge and enthusiasm is im pressive, and it is apparent that Cubelic leads by example.

Silk Road’s most recent addition is their tea tasting bar, a one of a kind experience in Nor th America These wine tasting style tea tastings educate customers and their palates on the varieties, regions, prepara tion and finer attributes of tea and tea cul ture Each begins by giving tasters the oppor tunity to appreciate the colour and aroma before sipping from the traditional white tasting cups. The experience is well worth planning for and reserving in advance (there is a small fee to cover this unique program) After a 45 minute tasting semi nar, tasters can be sure they’ll never look at a tea bag the same way again

Throughout the year, Silk Road runs after hours seminars and events all involving tea. This fall look for a special tea and food pair ing evening as well as one on cooking with tea.

Silk Road is submersed in tradition yet ahead of its time As Cubelic explains, “‘Tea mind’ is a way of understanding the world through tea ” Cubelic’s tea mind obviously holds a vast understanding of tea and cui sine, creating a very happy marriage be tween the two. Perhaps we all need to put the kettle on and get cooking!

Silk Road is located in Victoria’s Chinatown at 1624 Government St. Visit www.silkroadtea.com for more tea recipes.

START HERE

Chai Tea Honey Cake

David Mincey of Camille’s Restaurant provided this recipe for Chai Tea Honey Cake He also offered the following directions: “ This recipe does require some

Chef David Mincey’s (Camille’s Restaurant)

Chai Tea Honey Cake.

baking skill as well as an accurate kitchen scale. All measurements are weight measures except where noted. Bake until the centre of the cake is firmly set and springs back to the touch It should be star ting to pull away from the sides of the baking dish at this point as well The cooking time is different in various ovens so you will have to use your judgment It is easy to undercook this recipe, but difficult to overcook it as the cake is so moist Do not use commercial honey, only the one specified or the results will be very disappointing Make sure your cake pan is as close to 11 by 18 as you can get It is crucial to have the bat ter thinly spread over a large area as the centre will never fully set if it is too thick.”

Sift together:

15.5 oz. brown sugar

3 5 oz sugar

13 oz flour

2 tsp baking powder

4 tsp baking soda

In a separate bowl whisk together:

7 oz. eggs

2 5 oz egg yolks

16 liquid oz strong brewed Silk Road Chai Tea

2 tsp vanilla extract

6 oz Babe’s fireweed honey

10 oz melted unsalted butter

16 liquid oz. buttermilk at room temperature

Add the liquid mix into the dry and whisk together. Pour batter into a well greased 11 by 18 inch pan and bake at 350ºF.

Smoky Maple Salad Dressing with Lapsang Souchong

1⁄4

vinegar 3 Tbsp maple syrup

2 tsp. Lapsang Souchong loose tea

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

1⁄2 tsp Dijon mustard

1⁄2 tsp salt

1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper

3⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil

In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar and syrup Bring to a boil, stir in the Silk Road Lapsang Souchong tea leaves and remove from heat Let sit for about 6 minutes Strain, but do not press on the tea leaves to extract more flavour Discard the tea leaves In a small bowl, whisk together the flavoured vinegar syrup mixture, the garlic, the Dijon and the salt and pepper Add the olive oil in a thin steady stream whisking all the while to emulsify the greens.

Chef Heidi Fink offers this unique salad dressing made with the classic Chinese black tea

Acting and Eating

Michelle Morgan is Lou in CB C’s Heartland, she travels frequently between Calgary and Vancouver and she has just wrapped a role in a new zombie movie

But what does she like to eat?

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITES?

Take out: It's a tie between Deser ts Falafel in Vancouver and Ghandi's Roti in Toronto

Exotic/ethnic Ethiopian: Unpretentious Colombian white beans, rice and sliced tomatoe

Lunch: West Coast Grilled Salmon with a big fresh salad

Dinner: Italian There's nothing like a nice fresh pasta, and a full bodied glass of red Wine: I've really been enjoying Malbec and Riesling wines lately

Food Shop: Any Farmers' Market

Michelle Morgan photographed at Foundation (2301 Main St , Vancouver) holding an organic purple pepper

Tell us about eating and the life of an actor?

My acting career causes me to travel a lot and live a transient lifestyle Through my 'foodie' interests I have found so many ways to feel more at home wherever I go. One of the first things I do when I arrive in a new city is find the nearest Farmers Market. These places are always so fun, you get to buy direct from local farms (which is always my goal), and meet interesting people and local ar tisans. Exploring new restaurants is probably my favourite past time in a new city My fist day on a set I'll be heard to ask "So, where's the best Indian food in town?" or "What's your favourite breakfast joint?" I also never fail to throw dinner par ties that bring together people from the cast and crew, food is the best medium for getting to know people

We heard you grow your own food. Tell us about it?

I befriended a neighbour once who grew plants from seeds, she gave me a few little pots with tiny little spouts growing out of them, so I gave them water and sun and the next thing I knew I had all these beautiful, delicious tomatoes and peppers Growing vegetables is so rewarding, and it's something I can do in pots on a balcony no matter where I go I love com ing home and seeing how my jalapenos are coming along. It's a lesson in patience and care.

What’s the coolest restaurant you’ve recently discovered?

The Avenue Diner on Stephen Ave in Calgary This place has such incredible food, a beautiful, clean yet welcoming atmosphere, and really good wait staff. The other day I had a salmon club sandwich with garlic aoli on rye with a delicious spring spinach salad. It's only open for breakfast and lunch which is fine by me because there are not nearly enough good lunch restaurants for my taste. It is a highly overlooked meal in Canadian culture.

What will ruin a good meal for you at a restaurant?

Overcooked meat/fish/poultry. Why would somebody take a, hopefully, wonderful cut of meat and cook it until it's dry and flavorless?

Do you have a favourite “food” movie?

Like Water for Chocolate.

Fill in the blanks…

You will never, ever, ever, never eat an endangered species The best meal you’ve ever eaten was… My family has a farm in the Andies just south of Santiago, Chile. One year there was a reunion and we roasted a lamb on a spit over open flame. It was a beautiful evening, and I remember thinking it was the best tasting lamb in the world. Food is like acting because Two of the best ways to learn about a different culture is to see their theatre and eat their food. What are you working on next? I'm finishing up Season Two of Hear tland for the CBC. The new episodes hit the air in October. I'm also plotting my next restaurant adventure, I've heard about a red school bus permanently parked in South west Calgar y that grills the best burgers in town.

An experience that deserves a great start(er).

EPICURE AT L

ARGE —

By Jeremy Ferguson

Let the Game begin

Canadians, so endowed with wilderness and wildlife, have traditionally cherished the notion of game as something especially ours In 1967, the Depar tment of Indian Af fairs published the Nor thern Cookbook, with recipes for grizzly bear, beaver, porcu pine, squirrel and, sublimely, baked skunk Okay, forget the skunk. G ame meats and birds such as venison, elk, bison, pheasant and quail, bereft of fats and cholesterol and untarnished by hormones and growth stim ulants, ought to be emerging as icons of correctness for legions of 21st century health neurotics

You don’t know the true meaning of “only game in town” until you’ve journeyed Tibet on a diet of yak. These emerald valleys and skies of blue fire hang on the Roof of the World and yak, that shaggy ox of the Himalayas, is literally haute cuisine I ate roast yak, barbecued yak, fried yak, spicy Sichuan yak, curried yak and yak burgers Only the latter failed to snarf the dentures from the heads of my elderly companions

Still, my penchant for game, for some thing wild, or the illusion of something wild, remains unswayed. My fondest memory is grilled kangaroo striploin in the Oz Out back. The ‘roo was lean and dark, rare, ten der and rich tasting It came sauced in witchetty grubs, which Aborigines dig out from the roots of gum trees and eat raw Sautéed, they recall cashew nuts For a while, I thought I might get rich by impor t ing them to Canada: Throw a grub on the barbie, mate?

Aussie chefs fear nothing. My other big Oz treat was filet of camel, roasted by a chef in Queensland’s Daintree rainforest. Camels had been introduced to Australia in the 19th century Now there are 500,000 wild ones overrunning the Outback the largest wild camel population in the world Nobody would miss one: mine was sweet and oh so tender. Later I was treated to camel pro sciutto, and it, too, bore the signature subtlety and sweetness on the palate.

In Kenya, at the tourist restaurant Carni vore, zebra, antelope, giraffe, ostrich, croc odile, gazelle and gnu thunder across the menu, all grotesquely overcooked in crack ling fire pits On the Micronesian island of Palau in the remote western Pacific, I was ser ved man eating crocodile, which has been known to taste like the fisherman it consumed two nights earlier. And there was the armadillo in a grotty Belize bistro; it was like eating a Brinks truck.

Bison seems a natural Larousse G as tronomique, rather romantically, calls it a “typical Canadian dish,” but its leanness can be formidable. Nor has wild boar cap tured the public imagination, maybe be cause it’s just another pork chop. The thought brings me back to yak.

Years ago, Ziggy’s in Toronto sold Ontario farmed yak at its game counter Aha, not the wild Tibetan beast, but one tempered for gentler Canadian sensibilities I rushed out and bought some For two days, I tender ized it in red wine and herbs I grilled it ever so cautiously. The yak sizzled in a charcoal haze. It looked wonderful. It was an experience, I explained to my dentist the next morning. E xcavating my mangled choppers, he wouldn’t stop laughing.

Lately I’ve given up on the exotics and turned to venison Although mostly farmed, it’s delicious, and doubly so if it happens to be organic For the absence of fat and cho lesterol, it’s second only to bison Only the fascist brigade of the vegetarian horde might find something to carp about.

I like my venison on the bone for big flavour and big juiciness. Rib chops are just the ticket Sear the chops for a couple of minutes on each side using an instant read thermometer to maintain their centres under 125ºF Take the chops from the pan and allow to rest

Now to the pan add finely chopped shal lots and garlic, frying until they’re golden. Add a cup of demi glace, a shot of por t or red wine, a knob of butter and a handful of blackberries, easy to find in these par ts. Lightly crush the blackberries with the back of a fork Simmer five minutes Add salt and coarsely ground pepper to taste

Plate the chops Drizzle with sauce and offer the rest in a gravy boat Side with roast Fraser Valley yellow potatoes. It’s not the only game in town, but it could be the best.

Unrepentant carnivore Jeremy Ferguson likes his yak

curried, his kangaroo grilled and his camel roasted. But organic Canadian venison is still his favourite wild ride.

The Sweet Lily

The drums beat slowly, rhythmically, then deeper, louder, faster, urging on the six men, women, and children shovelling the ear th away from the top of the covered, steaming pit The ear th is cleared, the burlap bag covering is whisked away, and steam billows out, bringing with it the smell of the colour green Arm sized branches of salal and swordfern are swept away, unveiling the feast a bounty of beets, potatoes, garlic, corn, and the star of the day’s event the bulb of the camas lily.

This past June, the Camosun College First Nations program and the land management de par tment of the Songhees Nation co hosted a camas har vest demonstration and pit cook Present were elders as well as members of different nations Lekwungen, Heiltsuk, Cowichan, Ahousaht, and Wsanec A group of students from Carlos Petrini’s University of G astronomic Sciences in Piedmont were there to get their hands dir ty har vesting and preparing the camas So was one of the world’s top ethnobotanists, UVic’s Nancy Turner. Turner, an exper t in camas, points out that camas fields were tended and managed like an agricultural crop and the dried bulbs were extensively traded all along the west coast, so vital was the lily to the native diet, economy and culture

This strikingly deep purple flower was once abundant in British Columbia but only 5 percent of what existed before European contact remains due to loss of habitat in par ticular the moist G arry oak meadows of southern Vancouver Island as well as rocky outcrops, wetlands and prairies A white camas once thrived but played no par t in this celebration The reason is explained by its other name: death camas. The bulb of the edible camas looks like an onion but is in fact a complex carbohydrate Like an onion, the longer it cooks, the darker and sweeter it gets (sweet foods were scarce in native diets and therefore highly valued) In tra ditional pit cooks, it would sometimes be cooked up to 24 hours. Cooked for a few hours, the way I tasted it, it is like a starchy taro root with a hint of Jerusalem ar tichoke.

Creating the food pit was every bit as dramatic as the unveiling of the steaming meal After the rocks had been heated for hours under a fire, the food prep team readied itself for ac tion. Racing against time (to preser ve the heat of the rocks), the fire movers shovelled the fire three feet away from the pit Someone then rammed a water soaked pole into the centre of the stones and held it there Other folks layered branches of salal and swordfern on top of the hot rocks, after which several people unceremoniously dumped massive bowls of root vegetables onto the leaves. The second team of salal and swordfern folk layered leaves on once again On went the burlap bag To cheers and a crescendo of drumming, the shovellers flung ear th on top of the burlap Bystanders pointed out tendrils of escaping steam, and the shovel people responded by slamming ear th onto them.

Two minutes later, it was done The food for the feast was steaming away, and the relo cated fire was immediately put to use cooking a native bread called scow bread Guests were handed a pat of dough, which they smushed onto the end of a stick. Some rammed the stick into the ear th near the fire to cook their bread; others held their bread impaled stick over the fire

While the food is, of course, an impor tant par t of the pit cook, of equally impor tance, at this and other pit cooks, is the pause. The pause, the stretch of time between lowering the food into the pit and the eventual unear thing of it, is when people meet, converse and make con nections It is time to reflect on the meaning of the food before sharing it And on this day, it was a time to contemplate the symbolism of this vital food source for First Nations people, the need to nur ture a local crop and to par ticipate in its resurgence, not only for First Nations people but as a symbol of food sustainability for all people of B C

V I C T O R I A RESTAURANT REPORT

by Elizabeth Smyth

Fresh Beginnings, 201-239 Menzies St, 250-381-8824

I always get excited when I discover a diamond in the rough, a gem hidden under an unprepossessing exterior, and I don’t just mean in my now retired dating life At first glance walking by on Menzies Street, Fresh Beginnings looks like it might be the kind of place to grab a stale muffin and a staler coffee Wrong, wrong, wrong Exquisite food is being dished out on paper plates, some of it food I would be thrilled to get at higher end places like Camille’s. Wild spring salmon is soaked in a slightly sweet, slightly piquant crabapple, maple, and Dijon glaze and then enrobed in buttery pastry in the salmon turnover. Ser ved with greens and a balsamic dressing, this is very high quality food for only $7.25. At $5.95, feta spinach strudel is chef and owner Jodie’s “signature dish.” It is a far cry from a basic spanakopita; carmelized onions and roasted garlic add a sweetness to the creamy, soft feta, and the pastry is once again sublime Jodie is a fifth generation pastry chef, so it goes without saying that the sweets are also exquisite the dense brownie with caramel, coconut, and pecan; butter rum pecan tar t; orange cream scone These are but a few of the treats in her reper toire The restaurant can sometimes get swamped with government workers on lunch break. Be stoic. Stay in line. The wait will be wor th it.

Normally when I walk by a restaurant that’s new to me, my eye is drawn obsessively to the posted menu. But what caught my eye the first time I walked past the large pane windows of Macchiato was actually its décor the small space manages to look large, bright, and airy, thanks to the high ceiling and the cool cream chairs that are sleek and sophisticated and soft enough to relax into The menu at Macchiato is a match for its décor, with its simple, easy, elegance Creative salads and impeccable paninis are the bulk of the offerings; they do a few things well, and that is pleasing The Milano panino for $4 95 features sundried tomato mayonnaise, provolone, hot capicolla, roasted red pepper, and spinach; most impor tantly, it is properly grilled to a deep golden brown. The Moroccan couscous looks and tastes like summer, with its cleansing tang of white balsamic vinegar, the ear thiness of cumin, and the freshness of ground mint. Tuscan tuna and bean salad is as simple and good as it sounds cannellini beans, fresh tuna, marinated red peppers, and high quality balsamic vinegar and olive oil. On top of the flavours of these salads, I ap preciate the practicality of being able to purchase a full dish for $4.95, and a side dish for $2.49. This means that when I’m run ning errands downtown, I can feed my four year old Asian noodle salad for $2.49, which is a damn sight preferable to being offered chicken strips for $6 00 Sure, she was the only child in a place that appeals essentially to the downtown business crowd, but she was most cer tainly extended a warm welcome

Wild salmon turnover with fresh greens at Fresh Beginnings in James Bay.

Tuscan Bean Salad Cannellini, tuna, roasted red pepper with a balsamic vinaigrette; Moroccan Couscous chick peas, red pepper, cucumber, raisins, mint, cumin, lemon with white balsamic vinaigrette; Milano Panini Capicolla, spinach, roasted red pepper, provolone, sun-dried tomato pesto.

Macchiato, 1002 Broad St. at Broughton, 250 385 8900

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

Carlo’s Cantina and Grill, 9816 Four th St, near Beacon Ave., Sidney, 250 656 3833

Tender chicken breast cooked to perfection, Join us for Appy Hour 3-6pm daily.

The O Bistro In The Oswego Hotel 500 Oswego Street in James Bay Tel: 294-7500

ser

ved with Spanish rice and black beans. With walnuts and almonds. $13.99

Sidney continues to amaze me with its new found range of quality restaurants Carlo’s Can tina and Grill offers South western Mexican cuisine Yes, there is a Carlo, and yes, he runs the kitchen. And yes, there are plenty of tasty options for under $12, my ideal cut off price, though you will have to forgive me for beseeching you to spend 99 cents more for the Chicken a la Mexicana in mole sauce The mole sauce, a rich blend of ground nuts, roasted tomatoes, and a hint of chocolate, is rich, subtle, and soothing. Its rustic presentation belies its sophisticated struc ture; if the sauce were a woman she would be a natural glowing beauty rather than a glamour queen. The black tur tle beans on the side burst with flavour, making this dish a double winner. Meanwhile, other dishes are fine and filling for well under $12 The mango and brie quesadilla is fat with cheese, has a sparkle of mango, and pairs well with the housemade salsa And the flan soaked in caramel sauce is vital to top off your meal and can, without deprivation or resent ment, be shared

Buzz: Pizzeria Prima Strada opened in Cook Street Village in early August 7th, too late for a review here, but I wanted to let you know about this much anticipated new Napoli style pizza parlour. Go! Tues Sat, 5pm to 1O pm, 105 230 Cook Street • 250.590.8595

Ken Winchester knew he was onto something when noted British drinks writer Jim Murray sampled a test batch of his Victoria Gin and pronounced it “stunning.” Now, only eight weeks after its launch at the Empress Hotel, the gin has sold out three times, and there is a waiting list for future bottlings Says Winchester, “Gin is a complex spirit, much like single malt whisky. When you see the gleaming cop per potstill, smell the 11 botanicals boiling away, and the spirit trick ling out of the condenser, it’s magic ” Victoria Gin is soon heading to a faceoff in New York with Oregon’s Aviation Gin for the best Gin in Nor th America Treve Ring

yummy create something today.

E AT Magazine commissioned international poster designer Andrew Lewis to put his talents towards designing our 10th Anniversar y poster.

They are $50 each (including shipping and handling) Proceeds from the sale will be donated to the BC Cancer Foundation to fund research in their fight against Breast Cancer Call 250 384 9042 to order your poster.

Feast of Fields supports n um ero us lo c a l g roups and initiatives

The annual Feast of Fields is a highlight on the calendars of Vancouver Island’s food community, bringing together those who love to eat with the rich network of people that supplies our local food everyone from farmers to fishers, vintners to brewers, bakers to butchers. Every September since 1997, people have come together to celebrate the abundance of our Island; a festival eagerly anticipated and much loved.

But the Feast isn’t merely a showcase of fabulous local eats and drinks for a privileged few; it ser ves a much more noble and impor tant purpose As the primary fund raiser for Farm Folk/City Folk, revenue from Feast of Fields is earmarked to suppor t local food initiatives ones that help sustain and enhance our local food infrastructure and increase the accessibility of Vancouver Island agricultural products to everyone in the community.

Over the years, more than $68,000 in funds raised through Feast of Fields has gone to such diverse community projects as: star t up funding for the Island Chef ’s Collaborative Bastion Square Market; the construction of an industrial kitchen at Providence Farm in Duncan used to train special needs community members in cook ing, food preser vation and preparation techniques; the construction of a market garden at Edward Milne Secondar y School in Sooke; and funding for the GoodFood Box program to purchase local food And there are many others

“ The most impor tant thing for us,” says Feast organizer Jason Found, “is that we are suppor ting community groups in implementing projects related to local food that will have a lasting benefit to a large number of people in the community.”

One exciting initiative of F FCF is the Community Farms Program (CF P), a joint venture between F FCF and The Land Conser vancy of BC (TLC). The CF P is a creative solution to the multiple challenges facing farmers in BC; par ticularly the high cost of farmland, the aging population of farmers and the challenging lifestyle including low wages, high risk and hard labour inherent to farming

The CF P has helped put young farmers like Ian King, Mar thinus DeWet and Perry Mickle where they want to be sharing and working the land at Lohbrunner Farm in Langford “We couldn’t have done this without this program,” says King “ The lease arrangement allows us to feel secure on the land and to be able to make a long term investment in it.” These young guys are excited to be able to grow food for the com munity and to make a viable living doing what they love.

The CF P is developing many community farms like Lohbrunner. Through the CF P, farm land is protected forever by a land trust, covenant or similar tool. Farmers hold long term leases and are housed on or near the proper ty Sustainable agricultural practices, local food production, economic viability and the protection of farmland for farming are paramount Young people who are passionate about sustainable agriculture are getting the oppor tunity to farm Their farms supply locally grown food to neighbours and engage the community through local markets Our communities, our food security and our bellies are all the richer for it.

Feast of Fields will take place on September 21, 2008.

For information: www.feastoffields.com

LifeCyclesFruitTreeProducts

Theseproductsaremadefromproduce devotedlyharvestedbyvolunteersof LifeCycles'FruitTreeProject.Since1998 over150,000lbsofnutritiousfood -whichwouldhavegonetowaste-has beenredistributedamonghomeowners, volunteers,foodbanksand communityorganizations. Proceedsfromproduct salesallowthecharitable projecttocontinue. Thankyou! www.lifecyclesproject.ca

By Andrew Morrison

Trattoria Italian Kitchen | 1850 West 4th | Kitsilano | 604 7 32 1441 | TrattoriaKitchen.ca

Without question, Glowbal Group of restaurants Coast, Sanafir, Glowbal and the original Italian Kitchen on Alberni are some of the most glamorous restaurants in B C They attract movie stars and other celebrities and have a public relations machine that is second to none As a consequence, they’re ferociously successful and have little need to be anything more than adequate in the cuisine depar tment This new venture, however, a decidedly less flashy restaurant that focuses on Italian food, manages to strike a more palatable balance by ser ving up equal measures of bling and flavour The room, by Box Interior Designs, is a modern triumph with a sexy, summery feel and none of the over used Italian motifs that scream of trite.

Upfront, it’s a drinks forward lounge (the sidewalk patio is straight out of Milan), while the intimate and darkened rear of the space, aglow in shimmering crimson, makes for a romantic hideaway. The two communal tables of six that dominate the centre of the room are probably the best seats in the house. Like islands in a whirlwind, they af ford diners the oppor tunity to take in every angle the most interesting being the small and frenetically charged open kitchen Here, my par ty saddled up with strangers and traded forkfuls of zippy penne arrabiatta for bites of forno roasted whole trout (whispering discreetly and deliciously of lemon and herbs) while opining on how the restaurant might fit in in Kitsilano’s increasingly competitive dining scene We all agreed that their approach to pricing, which is very approachable indeed, will prove more of a seductive siren song than the restaurant’s good looks With pastas and pizzas averaging out at $13 per and dinner plates like classic Veal Milanese and simply grilled lamb chops marinated in olive oil and garlic not in excess of $18, it’s an overall steal. Add in a shor t but sweet Italianesque wine list that star ts at $5 a glass and it’s positively magnetic. Ser vice is tight and refreshingly informal, while the hyperactive soundtrack and tinny acoustics are guaranteed to raise voices when it’s busy, which is always. All told, a hectic but absolute winner.

Food concept: Well executed Italian standards built to share and priced to sell Libations: Stick close to ice cold Peroni beer and the very affordable wine selections Ser vice: Lots of it Outstanding for a casual, fast paced restaurant Must have: Any of the pastas They have the classics dialled in

The Calling, revealed last summer on the southeast corner of Denman and Davie, is a re brand rather than a rebuild If the ownership company, Donnelly Hospitality Management, wanted a name that was more obtuse than their original choice The Denman Street Free House they've succeeded (they also own The Granville Room, Library Square Public House, and a host of popular nightclubs). Branding aside, the new operation smacks awfully of the former. It's still a modern pub, and not an unattractive one once you get past the ugly exterior (several black shades of drab with a nightclubbish ATM machine beside a front door that is often flanked by smokers) Once inside, the room is well appointed and comfor table, managing to hold your attention with little nooks, clean lines, picture windows, and a well tended bar Of course there's an ocean view, a breezy people watching patio, and sunset beams highlighting a billion dust par ticles floating through the air as well, but I submit that if The Calling were anywhere else in this city it would be just as easy on the eyes The food isn't half bad, either Steamed edamame are boring and overplayed, but I appreciated the simple way in which they're done here: with a dusting a coarse sea salt crystals and nothing else The sizable poutine, too, was one step up from edible with its beef and scallion gravy, even though it was priced for laughs at $9. One salad in par ticular was appealing, a mess of frisée with straw berries, candied pecans, medjool dates, and goat cheese croquettes all deliciously awash in maple vinaigrette. The gor gonzola and bacon burger was a hit, a half pound giant in ciabatta capped with fresh Bibb lettuce. It was fall apar t messy and drenched in cheap mustard and sweet onion marmalade. I spent an extra $1 to substitute an adequate caesar salad in lieu of more fries, making for a grand total of $11 (a bargain) The list of beers is so so Go for a proper drink instead Booze aficionado Jay Jones (ex West, Nu, Salt) just finished a lengthy stint in the employ of DH M (he's now at the Voya in the Loden Vancouver hotel), and he did a laudable job at overhauling the company's cocktail lists Be warned, ser vice is sketchy when the room is on the busy side of steady Stick to the bar, where the person ser ving you is always front and center

Food concept: pub fare with some unexpected flourishes Libations: there's plenty to sip from the taps, but aim for one or two of Jay Jones' drinks. Ser vice: it can't be good when you have to wave your ser ver down after a twenty minute disappearing act and they vapidly wave back.

Must Have: the gorgonzola burger with bacon and Bibb lettuce.

C l e a n l i n e s a n d s u r p r i s i n g l y g o o d f o o d a t l o w p r i c e s g u a r a n t e e a p e r e n n i a l p a c k e d h o u s e f o r K i t s i l a n o ' s n e w Trattoria Italian Kitchen.

Panzanella at Trattoria Italian Kitchen: rough cuts of bread among heirloom tomatoes, grapes, arugula, and house-made burrata cheese, all moistened with a red wine vinaigrette.

This ain't your grandpa's pub: poutine and cocktails fit the bill at this ultra-modern watering hole with a view."

The Beach House at Dundarave Pier | 150 25th St | West Vancouver |

604 922 1414 | AtTheBeach House.com

It’s funny how a restaurant changes over time. Staff members come and go, menus evolve and renova tions alter the very face of the business All of the above have hap pened at The Beach House since I left it two years ago. It was my last job in the restaurant trade. I’d been writing about food for two years prior to that, and my deal with the restaurant was always that I would never write about them while I was in their employ Free at last, I can now pass judgment “without let or hindrance” based on my recent experiences there. Unfor tunately, whatever insights I may have once had have been snuffed out by the fact that I hardly rec ognize the place A few fa miliar staff remain, but the rest are strangers, includ ing the entire kitchen brigade. This is nothing new. Sean Sylvestre ar rived from his sous role at Pino Posteraro’s famed Cioppino’s to take over as executive chef Accord ingly, I’ve stayed close to the pastas on his breakout menu, supping primarily on work of ar t Spaghetti alla Ma tricianas, so balanced and savoury, bursting with fresh tomato and fatty slivers of pancetta; and bowls of fettuccine laden with a beefy ragu, the taste and quality of which approaches that of Posteraro’s (Vancouver’s undisputed master of the Bolognese). But the menu can’t be 100 percent Italian. The copper mermaid in the signage suggests a seafood slant, her wispy hair and near erotic posture hinting at West Coast French. In this realm they’ve never disappointed Pan roasted sablefish glazed with honey and soy shines, tightly presented with a medley of fresh market vegetables Wild salmon comes simply, flavoured slightly with fennel and a wash of white wine and basil With out a doubt, the food is better than it was when I was there for half a decade Sadly though, the prices have inched higher and higher, steering it into a category that in cludes some of the most expensive restaurants in town (the Delmonico steak with brandy spiked peppercorn sauce tops out at $40, with a dozen or so main courses not far behind). Is it wor th it? Well, yes and no. I think most other restaurants in this price range do a far better job on both the food and ser vice fronts. Still, the quality and con sistency keep it out of rip off territory, and the two patios have few equals in B.C. (the new second floor private room and deck are still the best kept secrets in Vancouver’s restaurant scene) Looking out onto Dundarave Beach and the full sweep of Burrard Inlet from the Lion’s G ate Bridge to Vancouver Island at sunset comes at no charge, so groans are quickly suppressed In the end, you get what you pay for and then some, and that’s why it still chugs along sniff without me

Food concept: Euro West Coast hybrid at expense account prices.

Libations: Award winning wine list. Formidable selection of whiskies. Beer list is poor.

Ser vice: Can be excellent, but it depends on who you get. The wealthiest postal code in Canada has made for a lame labour pool.

Must have: A soft, Basque style pimenton and tomato soup crowned with crisped proscuitto It loves the olive loaves provided

Newly-installed chef Sean Sylvestre brings talent and consistency to West Vancouver's Beach House.

Revel | 238 Abbott St. | 604 6 87 4088 | RevelRoom.ca

Opened in May, the Revel Room has settled in for what will likely be a very long run in G astown. Perched at the western entrance of Blood Alley (which leads to Salt Tast ing Room), the new two storey looker was a beast of a project to complete. Thanks to financial woes and the 2007 city strike, it took nearly two years to gestate from con ception to bir th. But good things come to those who wait, and Revel has indeed emerged as a very good thing The 80 seat space begins with a high ceilinged lounge area braced with dark, bum hugging banquettes A large, high top table leads to a shor t and comfy looking bar where sippers seldom surrender their seats (the place is licensed until 2 a m ) Stairs lead up to a loft level dining room on the right where any one taller than Yoda may have to stoop some to navigate to and from the neatly arranged zinc capped tables. When seated, however, it’s very charming, almost formal with its hardwood floors and modern ar t/light fixtures.

Chef Michael Pacey’s small and sharable menu is a well thought out global tour made all the more exciting by the prices (most dishes hover around the $10 mark). The quality is there, too, doubling up the bang for buck factor most alluringly. The $9 wok fried “Chinatown Fried Rice,” for example, arrives as a massive oval heap of steaming grains licked with a sloppy chop of sweet bell pepper and a generous pinch of green onions One dimensional, yes, but there’s an “add curried pork” option to enliven it fur ther for an extra $3 It’s not what I’d call “cuisine” but rather food built for beer All of it goes down superbly well with a couple pints, from the house made potato chips with chipotle ketchup to the bite sized fritters made with shrimp meat and jalapeño flesh (their cornmeal battered coats soak up a silky, green curry flavoured crème fraîche). When looked at through beer goggles, there’s not an off dish on the card, which makes plundering the full menu a guilt free exercise in hoppy self absorption. Aromas and flavours rule when it gets busy towards the end of the night, with bowls of Manila clams being escor ted about the full room, so aromatic in a white wine and fennel broth that they provoke a pleasurable delirium that only recedes once you’re blocks away The eclectic, never the same track twice song list also seduces As for ser vice, it’s casual and prone to small mistakes, but it’s good natured and relatively quick On Friday and Saturday nights, it’s hard to find a seat in the bar and lounge area, but there seems to be fast turnover up top. Go early and stay late.

Food concept: Globally inspired small plates with easy price points. Libations: 17 well priced wines by the glass and 14 beers options. Nothing too exotic. Cocktails are solid (go for the English Ed with cucumber infused gin and red apple)

Ser vice: Could use an anti anxiety pill and a glass of champagne Must have: “Hawker style” minced prawn and chicken pieces skewered on sugarcane sticks and brightened with cilantro dice and chili heat hot plates that change often Lots of specials

More Gastown small plates: Hawker-style satay of minced chicken and prawn on skewers of lemongrass at Revel.

Moderne Burger | 2507 West Broadway | West Side | 604 7 39 0005 |

ModerneBurger.ca

All hail the return of the real burger king of Vancouver! After 14 months of renovations and not a few weeks of pre opening teases, Moderne Burger has finally re emerged from the dry wall dust like a phoenix from the fire (no metaphor: it was a nasty fire that first shut them down in 2005). The new digs are retro spic and gorgeous span, remi niscent of the diner in the movie Back to the Future (save for the fact that everyone is in modern dress a hundred Michael J. Foxes and Foxettes). Vinyl booths line the pe riphery of the space (twice the size of the original) while several revolving stools and glass display cases make a U shaped protuberance that juts long from the kitchen in the rear Ar t deco details are everywhere, from the mouldings and frames to the droop ing light fixtures and smooth lines of chrome capped wood the colour of ancient ar butus Ceiling fans whirl languidly from above, stirring air that is holy with devotion and thanks. The colour palette extends to milky greens and a light cream, with a checkerboard floor anchoring it all with the wear of ages.

There was a line up of Mar ty McFlys on opening night, and it was a night that was al most not to be. They had only just gotten the final green light from the city earlier that afternoon, and the local food bloggers had heavily publicized the opening date a week before If they hadn’t opened on time, owner Peter Kokinis would probably have faced an angry mob But there he was, tiki shir t and worried grin, lamenting how he was al ready running out of beef burgers (they also do turkey, veggie, lamb and salmon) The crowd was being triaged in, like a processing mill for missing persons I was very for tunate to find a chef I know at the front of the line together with his wife and son, and they tolerated my late addition to their order and my presence at their table (this saved me an hour’s wait time, easily). The four year old and I star ted with chocolate malteds, stirring memories of what it was like to be his age, when all that mattered was the suck ability of a straw. And then my burger arrived. I’d gone the classic route with Swiss cheese, bacon, onions, lettuce, mayo/ketchup blend, and BBQ sauce The additive free, 100 percent beef patty tasted as fresh as it was (they’re made in house several times a day), and the pliable bun resisted brutal contusions from my desperate, grip ping fingers Fries were hot and crispy, but totally forgotten to cool while my flavourful pal and I were thoroughly, and very happily, reunited Get ready to wait in line, folks

Food concept: Classic burger joint done with immense style. Libations: I never thought to check for booze. Seems a silly thing to want in a place like this. Cherry cokes and milkshakes or death.

Ser vice: You place your order and receive your order in shor t order (imagine that). Must have: The burger is too obvious, so be sure to have a chocolate malted (like no other drink in the world)

The return of a classic, handcrafted and mounted with Swiss and bacon."

The Dish

High-end Fuel: chef Robert Belcham's perfect buttermilk-fried Polderside chicken with biscuits and gravy.

TH

TH E G RAVY: 1 litre smoked brown chicken stock, 50 g butter or lard, 50 g flour, salt, black pepper

TH E B ISCU IT: 9 oz flour, 2 tsp baking powder, 1/2tsp baking soda, 1 tsp sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, 8 tbsp cold but ter, cut into 1/4 inch cubes, 3/4 c buttermilk

The culinary community in Vancouver has been abuzz of late over a dish being of fered at Fuel Restaurant Show up for Friday lunch at this Kitsilano award winner and you'll find a veritable who's who of restaurateurs, chefs, and die hard food fans lined up at the bar, all keen to tuck into their once a week special: chef/owner Rober t Belcham's buttermilk fried chicken with biscuits and gravy (try to order it at any other time and you'll receive a blank stare) It sounds rather pedestrian, but you'll be hard pressed to find a finer version of this southern classic anywhere. It star ts, of course, with a quality bird: one Redbro chicken sourced from Polderside Farms A simple 24 hour marinade in buttermilk, kosher salt and black pepper preps it for a long, hot bath in a sealed bag, and then it's ready for a roll in sea soned flour. The fry treatment is courtesy of canola oil, which makes for extra crispi ness On the plate, the thick gravy (made with smoked brown chicken stock) and biscuits are just bonus points, for the bird, as they say, is the word, and the word is the bird. A. Morrison

TO R EQUE ST TH E COM PLETE R ECI PE E MAI L: editor@eatmagazine.ca

A "biscuit" is a small form of bread made with baking powder or baking soda as a leavening agent rather than yeast. (Biscuits, soda breads, and corn bread, among others, are sometimes referred to collectively as "quick breads" to indicate that they do not need time to rise before baking.)

Common Purpose

Michi Sushi ("street sushi" in the vernacular) is brand new to 1513 West Broadway (604 736 4244, Michi Sushi.com), and ser ving up an awesome concept that'll likely catch on. Imagine uncut sushi rolls packaged like burritos and sold to go with the perfect motto: "these rolls were made for walking". It's the brainchild of sommelier/cook Kenneth Cho, a former fixture on the bar at the superlative West (with time at Bishop's, Lumiere and Chow also on his resume) I was first introduced to these delights during an business pres entation in an office building nearby, and it was difficult to keep my hands away from them as they sat temptingly on a catering platter in the middle of the table The verdict: pre dictably excellent, very well presented, and attractively priced at $3 to $4 a roll The loca tion, just off Granville, is bright and welcoming, and the menu a puzzle of choice. Go for the prawn and avocado version with lemon mayo. It'll cause you to wonder how soon Kenneth Cho will become a millionaire.

A.

Morrison

At Kenneth Cho's Michi Sushi, the rolls are made for walkin'.

The Quest for a Good Schnitzel

A Morrison

With a small German population, Vancouver has never been much of a schnitzel town Still, a little searching does the gullet good There are a few options, begin ning with Nor th Vancouver's legendary Jagerhof Schnitzel House, a restaurant styled like a Bavarian country inn (71 Lonsdale Ave, 604 980 4316) It's been ser v ing up over a dozen different versions of golden brown pork schnitzel for over 20 years now, ranging from a Cordon Bleu version that bubbles with ham and cheese to an absolute monster soaked in salty mushroom gravy. Plated with a choice of potato or authentic spaetzle and red cabbage, they make for massive meals that pair well with ice cold bottles of ubiquitous Warsteiner (one of the owners is a Sude ten German, so Czech beers figure prominently, too) The room is splendidly dated, with antlers, stuffed fowl, and hunting prints adorning the walls next to por traits of the Kaiser and Franz Josef (it's only right, as Jagerhof translates from the German as "gamekeeper's house") Next up on the schnitzel quest is the Vancouver Alpen Club at 4875 Victoria Drive (604 874 3811), a ground zero nest for German immigrants to the city since its inception in 1935. The cavernous space is little moth ballish, but it's thick with a passion for German heritage and all its edible trappings, from wurst and streudel to head cheese and schnitzel. Like the Jagerhof, the selection of schnitzels is deep, but aim for the huge "Hunter's", a fried plank deliciously doused in a white wine and mushroom sauce (so large that it could double as a raft), or the "Milano" capped with tomato puree and melted mozzarella cheese To make things par ticularly jolly, beer sells for $1 95 a glass Alternatively, there is Transylvania Flavours on the West Side, the slogan of which implores diners to "Eat Like a Knight!" (2120 West Broadway, 604 730 0880) Perfectly seasoned chicken and pork schnitzels are of equal wor th and quality ($12), and they arrive buttressed with mashed potatoes and green salad after thoughts. The last option is fast food chain called, ahem, "Schnitzelz", that recently opened in the West End (781 Denman, 778 737 1715). Not bad, and it's a plus that they're licensed (you can pick up a wireless signal, too), but the dining experience is considerably deadened by the flat screen televisions blaring spor ts and counter ser vice reminiscent of McDonald's There's just nothing "oompa" about it Stick to the authentic rooms and you can't go wrong

Alex Doubrava, co-owner of Nor th Vancouver's iconic Jaegerhof, plates the Lower Mainland's finest schnitzel.

Preserving the Bounty

By Bill Jone Photography by Andrei Fedorov

Memor y is a powerful and fickle friend. Over the years it has ser ved me well in my work as a chef, food consultant and cookbook author, but sometimes it just ser ves itself Let me explain Since a very youthful age, I’ve always hated dill specifically dill pickles Over the years the mention of dill pickles has sent shivers up my spine. Hairs rise on the back of my neck and my nose crinkles in disgust very powerful stuff. The oddity in all this is that I haven’t tasted dill in many, many years. Gravlax do you mind if we use fennel instead; dill pickles really, how about sage and garlic? Recently, dur ing some research on pickling, I forced myself to actually taste a dill pickle Prepared for the worst, I bit into the pickle and to my surprise, the sensation was actually pleasant Not ear th shattering and blissful nir vana, but not the vile com pote I was expecting Maybe I didn’t give dill enough of a chance and my prejudice towards an innocent herb has been misguided all these years. I’m not ready to jump whole hear tedly on the dill bandwagon, but it made me think of the power of memory and perception.

The mention of dill pickles, of course, raises the subject of canning and preser ving and the bad rap these have acquired over the years is similar to my misconception of dill It takes too much time, it’s complicated and messy, it’s so much eas ier to go to the grocery store and buy what I need Most im por tant, though, it could kill me

How did our older generations handle these questions? First, there were no supermarkets back in the day; necessity was the mother of invention. We grew gardens to feed the family and needed a way to extend the seasons beyond the growing months of spring, summer and fall long before re

frigeration or freezers Today, necessity is largely taken out of the equation Now we home preser ve food to extend the pleasure of the garden to the table, create a source of local food in the dark months of winter, give gifts to our friends and feel just a little smug about eating good, healthy foods

As for time, we probably need to look at jobs like these not as a waste of time but as an oppor tunity to gain time to bond with par tners, family or friends. It should be a satisfying day spent in the kitchen. If you’re already counting the time and money, canning is probably not the best investment for you If you’re counting quality of life, satisfaction and the joy of cooking and eating, step up to the preser ving table

Basic

Info (Or How Not to Kill Yourself )

The moment fresh food is har vested it star ts to deteriorate, slowly at first but increasing as time goes on Oxidation, nat ural bacteria and enzymes conspire to star t the process of decay back to compost Preser ving food at the peak of per fection is dependant on acquiring fresh produce and pro cessing it as quickly as possible. If you make a trip to the farmers’ market for a flat of strawberries on Saturday, plan to make Sunday the day to process the booty.

Freezing is by far the easiest method of preser ving in the modern kitchen. Berries need little processing; just wash lightly and drain thoroughly Place on a tray and put in the freezer for at least 1 2 hours Remove from tray and place in a plastic bag (label and date) for storage

Drying is another wonderful preser ving technique that is par ticularly great for mushrooms and tomatoes Drying your own fruit is a revelation, par ticularly when you dip them in

lemon juice or vitamin C instead of using the sulfur laden commercial process I use a commercial dehydrator with washable plastic racks in a small counter top box fitted with a small heat source and fan. I’ve found it a versatile tool in the kitchen for everything from dried tomato slices to mak ing my own salmon and beef jerky.

The longer the food sits, the more nutrients are lost Cooking, freezing, drying and canning allow the food to re main stable (in a suitable environment) for a greatly ex tended period of time The food’s acidity is a key factor in how safe the product is down the road when consumed High acid foods are generally safer to process and require low temperatures to cook and preser ve, retaining more vi tamins and nutrients in the food.

t i m e t o m a ke li ke a s q ui r re l a nd p re s e r v e a s m uc h a s possible for the coming winter.

In these days of sustainability a nd 1 0 0 - m i l e di e t i n g , t h e traditional is as relevant today as it was 100 years ago.

Chef and cookbook author Bill Jones

High Acid:

• Fruit jams and jellies, sauces, whole fruit

• Vinegar based pickles, relish, salsa and chutney

• Tomatoes with added acidity

Low Acid:

• Canned vegetables: carrots, onions, mushrooms, etc

• Meat, poultry and seafood: canned salmon, etc.

• Soup and stews

• Tomato based preser ves without acidity

Botulism (Clostridium botulism) is a key safety risk in improperly processed food It’s a nasty bacteria and ingestion of even small amounts can lead to respiratory distress and eventually to paralysis and even death The incidence of food related botulism poisoning is actually quite low and the spores are rare, but the risk of death should always get your attention. Food must be processed to a temperature of at least 240ºF (116ºC). You might notice this is above the boiling point of water (212ºF or 100ºC). To achieve these tempera tures in a home environment, you must use a pressure canner to reach the critical tem perature needed to kill the bacteria. G arlic is cited as a carrier of the botulism spore. I tend to leave pressure canning to the exper ts and focus on the safer high acid foods.

Acid is not a hospitable host for the botulism microbe so the risk of home canning fruit pickles and tomatoes (with added acid in the form of vinegar or lemon juice) is the safest way to wet your feet in the world of home canning and preser ves Sugar is also an effec tive preser vative when combined with acid, so jams and jellies are also relatively safe to make at home

Alcohol is another great preser ver so filling a jar with rinsed ripe cherries (or peaches or raspberries) and topping with rum or vodka is a great (and I mean great) way to make a unique and tasty harvest treat. Start now and it should be ready by Christmas. This is purely for medicinal purposes, mind you!

The General Steps to Canning

The following steps apply to all the recipes suitable for high acid canning Locally, the most commonly available jars are manufactured by Bernardin (www homecanning ca) an On tario based supplier of home canning products Their excellent website should be a good place to star t boosting your knowledge of canning and processing Make sure you wash canning jars in hot soapy water just before filling and use new lids and tightening rings. Pick the size of jar to fit your usage usually 1 litre jars for pickles and 500 mL, 250 mL or 125 mL jars for jams and jellies.

Buy good looking fruit or produce, no blemishes or dark patches on the skin and no ex cessive juice on the side of the box. Your local farmers’ market is the best place to shop. If you want the sunshine and experience (par ticularly with younger generations), farms of fering U Pick are a fun way to sample the best of the season’s berries

Store in a refrigerator until needed Gently wash the whole fruit or vegetable with cold water Most bacteria and errant pesticides and pollutants are water soluble and readily wash off the surface of most fruits Make sure to shake off as much moisture as possible Trim or peel off any tough skin or stems. Work quickly in a clean work area to prepare the item for canning. Cut off any bruised or blemished flesh.

Tomatoes and other fruit such as peaches can be quickly blanched to remove the tough skin. Bring a large pot of boiling water to a boil (for fruit add a little lemon juice or vitamin C to the water to slow browning) Cut a small X in the bottom of the fruit, place in boiling water and cook until the cut star ts to curl at the edges Transfer to a bowl of cold water (use ice if you are processing a large batch) The cold water will stop the cooking process and preser ve the colour and texture of the fruit

To process all the recipes below, bring a large canning pot filled with water to a boil A commercial unit will include wire holding rack, large enamel pot and lid Or you can use a large pot of water with a round pot rack (or pie plate) on the bottom and a tight fitting lid. Add the Snap lids to sterilize and soften the seal for at least 5 minutes.

Fill jars with prepared recipe (see below for examples), leaving about a quar ter inch for jams and half inch for most pickles, relishes and fruit mixtures. Remove air bubbles with a rubber spatula or spoon Wipe the jar clean (with a clean cloth or paper towel) and retrieve the lids from the hot water bath

Place the lid on top of a clean filled jar and screw on the lid until finger tight Add to the boiling pot of water (preser ve tongs are helpful), carefully setting it on the rack or plate Cook for the time indicated in the recipe (see www homecanning ca for critical info on how altitude affects the boiling temperature of water if you live in the mountains).

Remove the jars from the pot using tongs and use a dry towel to cradle them and dry them off. Set on a rack or cutting board and allow to cool overnight. Check for a vacuum seal by looking for an indent in the top of the jars seal. Label and place in a dark cupboard for

storage. Storing in a fridge will greatly ex tend the shelf life, create a good vacuum seal and yield a markedly safer product

Lower Salt and Spice Pickles

Makes three 1 L jars or six 500 mL jars.

4 lbs (about 2 kg) pickling cucumbers, washed and trimmed

4 cups (1 L) white vinegar

2 cups (500 mL) water

1/4 cup (65 mL) sugar

2 Tbsp (30 mL) sea salt

6 cloves garlic, peeled

1 Tbsp (15 mL) ginger, minced

1 Tbsp (15 mL) hot sauce

2 Tbsp (30 mL) whole allspice

Wash and prepare cucumbers Cut larger cucumbers into half or quar ter strips Pre pare canning jars (see general steps above for tips). In a stainless steel or ceramic pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and add the garlic, ginger and hot sauce. Sim mer for 1 2 minutes then remove garlic with a slotted spoon

In a jar, place one garlic clove and a few allspice berries Repeat with remaining jars Pack the cucumber pieces snugly into the jar. Add simmering liquid to within half an inch of the top. Wipe clean and cover with a sterilized lid. Top with a screw ring and turn to finger tightness. Transfer to the water bath and process at a boil (increase heat to medium high) for 15 minutes (below 1,000 ft 300 m altitude ) Remove and cool overnight

Stewed Tomatoes Preser ved with Lemon and Garlic

Makes six 500 mL jars

8 9 lbs (about 4 kg) tomatoes, skin removed 2 lemons

1 cup (250 mL) water

1 Tbsp (15 mL) salt

6 garlic cloves

Cut tomatoes into quar ters. Place 2 cups of the tomatoes in a heavy bottomed saucepan Crush with a spoon or potato masher Heat over medium heat until hot and star ting to reduce Add more tomatoes in batches; don’t crush, just stir into the mix. Add a little water each time to prevent sticking and help the tomato to break down slightly.

Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from the lemon, taking care to also remove the white (and bitter) pith from the lemon Extract the juice and divide, along with the peel, between the 6 jars, topping with a clove of garlic Ladle the hot tomatoes into the jar within half inch of the rim Wipe jar clean and top with a lid. Screw on lid and proceed with canning, keeping the jars in boiling water for 35 minutes (under 1,000

ft). Remove and cool for 24 hours. Check vacuum seal, label and store.

Blackberr y and Apple Preser ve

Makes five to six 250 mL jars.

6 cups (1 5 L) blackberries (or strawberries, blueberries or raspberries)

4 tart green apples, peeled cored and chopped 1/4 cup (65 mL) lemon juice and zest

4 cups (1L) sugar

In a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat, add the berries, apples, lemon juice and zest. Bring to a full boil, re duce heat and simmer for 1 2 minutes. Stir often to prevent burning on the bottom. Re duce heat if the mixture star ts to stick or scorch

Add sugar to the boiling fruit and stir con stantly until dissolved Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for about 30 40 minutes until the mixture gels (at about 220ºF/104ºC). You can visually make this test by placing a spoonful of jam on a plate and putting into the freezer. When chilled, the jam will not run together when cut with a fork Pour jam into prepared jars, clean rim and top with a hot sealing lid Top with a screw ring and finger tighten Place in the hot water bath and process for 5 minutes (under 1,000 ft altitude) Remove to rack, cool 24 hours, check seal and store.

Pickled Asparagus with Garlic and Chilies

Makes three 1L jars

4 lbs (about 2 kg) asparagus spears

4 cups (1 L) white vinegar

2 cups (500 mL) water

1/4 cup (65 mL) sugar

2 Tbsp (30 mL) sea salt

2 Tbsp (30 mL) pickling spice

6 cloves garlic, peeled

2 hot, red chili peppers, topped and sliced

Wash and trim asparagus Cut into lengths that will fit neatly in the jar The ends can be trimmed and peeled and added to the jar. Prepare canning jars (see general steps above for tips).

In a stainless steel or ceramic pot, com bine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and add the pickling spice, garlic and hot pep pers Simmer for 1 2 minutes then remove garlic with a slotted spoon

In a jar, place one garlic clove and a few strips of chili. Repeat with remaining jars. Pack the asparagus pieces snugly into the jar. Add simmering liquid to within half an inch of the top. Wipe clean and cover with a sterilized lid Top with a screw ring and turn to finger tightness Transfer to the water bath and process at a boil (increase heat to medium high) for 15 minutes (below 1,000 ft (300 m) altitude) Remove and cool overnight.

"Preserving the harvest of the farm took many forms, from freezing, fermenting, drying, pickling and root cellaring, but the one process we spent the most time on was canning ”

SPOIL YOURSELF AT OUR VILLA! SIX DELUXE GUEST SUITES TRULY REMARKABLE

Hester Creek Estate Winery Box 1605, Oliver, BC, V0H 1T0 Road #8, just south of Oliver

To reserve your suite at The Villa call 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

Hester Creek - a nice place to be.

cCARROTS are one of the world’s most versatile vegetables Raw ones are crunchy sweet Roasting intensifies their sweetness They’re “grate” in carrot cake and tender in spicy stews Small, stubby carrots B C grown Nante C A RROTS are a really sweet treat CARROTS are known as “the poor man’s aphro disiac ” As botanist James Duke poetically phrased it, “Some claim ginseng is the best / The miracle begetter / But carrots cost a whole lot less / And taste a wee bit better ”

cCELERY is a calming, nourishing, detoxify ing tonic food It is a good source of potas sium, and contains magnesium, copper, iron, phosphorus zinc, antioxidant vitamin C and beta carotene In Tender Buttons, Ger trude Stein described CE LE RY in her inimitable way. “Celery tastes tastes where in curled lashes and little bits and mostly in remains A green acre is so selfish and so pure and so enlivened ”

cONIONS are one of the world’s first plants They have been extolled throughout history as a cure all food and today are one of the most thoroughly researched medicinal foods Scores of studies have praised their extensive healing proper ties Any dish that begins with the scent of ON ION S slowly caramelizing on the stove will stir your senses and awaken your appetite

cIt is easy to grow bay laurels in our climate. Growing your own evergreen bay laurel tree allows you to experience the delicious flavour of fresh BAY LEAVES year round.

cHuge, plump, juicy, sweet ORGANIC RED FLAME RAISINS are totally addictive They are available in the bulk sections of Thrifty’s, Lifestyle Markets and the Market on Yates. Seedless Red Flame Grapes have a high sugar content so they are ideal for making red wine For a different twist, try this lamb recipe using fresh Red Flame grapes

cThis is the season for B C APPLES Saanich, Saltspring Island and Cowichan Valley farms grow many varieties, including Belle de Boskoop, Northern Spy, Cox's Orange, Jonagold, Gravenstein, King, Prima and Crabapples In Deep Cove, Bob and Verna Duncan graft, grow and sell over 200 varieties of heritage, connoisseur and rare dwarf apple trees B C grown Ambrosia APPLE S are exceptional

cPARSNIPS are an underrated and under used sweet root vegetable. Fall and winter are peak seasons for fresh parsnips The first frost enhances their sweet taste by conver ting the roots’ starch into sugar. Parsnips are essential for chicken soup or vegetable stock They are delectable when roasted, or boiled and mashed and lashed with butter.

Around the World with Apples

XT by Nathan Fong

by Tandy Sean Arnold

TE

PHOTOS

Mom’s Apple Cake

Apple trees, one of the oldest and most widely cultivated fruit trees in the world, are believed to be native to southwestern Asia Cultivated since ancient times, this simple fruit has always been highly symbolic from the forbidden fruit to the fruit of knowledge.

Growing up in B C , I didn’t ever hear “an apple a day keeps the doctor away.” My father had a wonderful su permarket and I was for tunate to work there during my school years and be introduced to the bounty of our province’s best tree fruits B C apple production, once one of the crowning glories of our agricultural industry, has fallen behind due to increased competition from foreign growers as well as more impor tant crops such as our ever increasing wine industry

Nonetheless, our apple production is still one of the largest tree fruit crops grown in Canada with about 30 per cent of the total industry coming from our province and accounting for about 175,000 tons Of that, British Columbians consume 25 percent of the apples grown here. Although there are more than 100 commercial vari eties grown in Nor th America, the main ones grown in the province are Red and Golden Delicious, McIntosh and Spar tan Newer varieties such as Jonagold, G ala, Brae burn, Fuji and Ambrosia are now being widely planted be cause of their consumer popularity About two thirds of the apples grown in B.C. are eaten as fresh fruit, the re mainder are processed for fresh and frozen apple juice, sauce, cider and vinegar, as well as a variety of novelty items such as chips, fruit leather and pie fillings

One of the best apple festivals in Nor th America is held on Salt Spring Island every fall This year mark’s the 10th annual apple festival and will be held on Sunday Sep tember 28 Some 350 different apple varieties are grown organically on the island and some heirloom varieties are still available (www saltspringmarket com/apples) This pasture rich island has a long apple growing history that dates back to 1860

The following are some of my favourite recipes made with this quintessential fall fruit

Mom’s Apple Cake

I was one lucky kid growing up as my mother would often bake this superb home style cake as we were coming in from school, filling our home with wonderful aromas of apple and cinnamon This recipe is so simple and is best ser ved warm and the day it is baked.

1 1/2 cup flour

1 cup sugar

2 1/2 tsp baking powder

4 eggs

3/4 cup canola oil

3 to 4 apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4 inch slices cup sugar

1 tsp cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350ºF In a large mixing bowl add the flour, sugar, baking powder and mix well. Make a well in the centre and add the eggs and the canola oil Beat well until the batter is smooth.

Spread half of the batter on the bottom of a 9 by 9 inch square pan. Toss together the apples, 1/4 cup sugar and cinnamon until well mixed and place over the batter Spread the rest of the batter over top the apples and bake 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the top is golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean from the centre of the cake. Allow to cool and sprinkle with icing sugar

Spartan

A cross between a McIntosh and a Yellow Newton. Crisper, more colourful and sweeter than the McIntosh, medium to large, round, dark rd skin with small white spots. Great for all purposes.

Apple, Pear and Goat’s Cheese Gratin

This simple gratin is made with fall tree fruits and makes a great accompaniment with a simple roasted chicken.

Ser ves 4 to 6

3 large tar t apples, such as Granny Smith, Jonagold or Cor tland, peeled and cored

2 large, slightly under ripe pears, such as Bosc or Anjou, peeled and cored

1 small sweet onion, ver y thinly sliced

1/2 cup goat’s cheese (2 oz)

1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves

2 Tbsp fresh bread crumbs

2 Tbsp grated Cheddar cheese

Using a mandoline, slice the apples and pears very thin In a non stick 9 by 12 inch baking sheet, arrange half of the apple slices, overlapping, on the bottom of the pan Spread one third of the onion over the apples, then crumble one third of the goat’s cheese then one third of the thyme leaves. Arrange all the pear slices, overlapping, over the top and sprinkle with one half of the remaining onion, goat’s cheese and thyme leaves. Top with the remaining apple slices, followed by the remaining onion, goat’s cheese and thyme In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs and the Cheddar cheese and sprinkle over the top Place in preheated 425ºF oven for about 15 minutes or until the crust is browned and the Cheddar cheese has melted

Por k w i th Pota toes , Pep p er s a n d Apples (Aloo aur simla mirch gosht)

I’ve always thought of apple trees as distinctly Nor th Ameri can, but I was surprised at the assor tment available when I visited the markets on a recent trip to India I called upon my cookbook author friend Raghavan Iyer, based in Minneapo lis, and asked him if apples made their way into curries The answer is these two recipes from his latest cookbook, 660 Curries, published by Workman. Apples, primarily grown in the cooler climate of Kashmir in northern India, are both eaten fresh and cooked in succulent, savoury curries all across this subcontinent. Their sweet, slightly tar t, juicy character punc tuates everything from pork to eggplant Chutneys and pick les are also fair game for this crisp, juicy fruit Ser ves 6

2 medium size russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1 inch cubes and submerged in a bowl of cold water to prevent browning

1 1/4 pounds boneless pork loin chops, cut into 1 inch cubes

2 Tbsp plain yogur t

1 1/2 tsp coarse kosher or sea salt

1 tsp fennel seeds, ground

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp black cumin seeds, ground

1 tsp dill seeds, ground

2 tsp ground Kashmiri chilies; or 1/2 tsp ground red pepper (cayenne) mixed with 1 1/2 tsp sweet paprika

6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

Seeds from 2 black cardamom pods, ground

2 Tbsp mustard oil or vegetable oil

1 medium size green bell pepper, cut in half lengthwise, stem and seeds removed, cut into 1 inch pieces

2 Tbsp tomato paste

1 large, tart sweet, crisp apple (such as Braeburn), cored and cut into 1 inch pieces

2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

Drain the potatoes and pat them dry with paper towels

Combine the pork, potatoes, yogur t, salt, fennel, ginger, cumin, dill, Kashmiri chilies, garlic and cardamom in a medium size bowl. Toss to mix well. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes or as long as overnight, to allow the flavours to permeate the meat.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat Add the bell pepper and stir fry until the intense heat causes the pieces to blister, 3 to 5 minutes

Add the pork and potatoes, including any residual marinade Cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is seared and the potatoes are browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and 1 cup water and scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze it, releasing any browned bits of meat, vegetables and spice Fold in the apple pieces and heat to a boil Then re duce the heat to medium low, cover the pan and simmer, stir ring occasionally, until the meat is fork tender, 20 to 25 minutes (The vegetables will be tender too but surprisingly maintain their shape.)

Stir in the cilantro and ser ve.

Beef and lamb are both excellent alternatives to pork here, but do adjust for a longer stewing time to yield tender meat

If you want to try chicken, I recommend using bone in pieces to maintain the meat’s succulence

Tar te Tatin

This is one of my favourite classic French desser ts I love the combination of tar t ap ples caramelized with sugar with a hint of spice. Although it looks difficult to make, it’s an easy recipe and so comfor ting. Ser ve with whipped cream or, as the French do, a sweetened crème fraîche. Ser ves 6.

1 package frozen pastry dough, thawed

5 to 6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and quar tered

1 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp nutmeg

1 cup sugar

4 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 large egg, beaten

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 12 to 13 inch circle. Trim rough edges if necessary to make a round shape. Transfer the dough to a parchment paper lined sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Heat oven to 400ºF

Toss the apples with the spices and 1/4 cup of the sugar

In a 10 inch cast iron pan or other heavy based oven proof skillet, heat the re maining 3/4 cup sugar over medium high heat until it turns a dark amber colour Add the butter and stir it into the caramel until melted and well mixed, being careful as the butter will make the caramel sputter.

Remove from heat and beginning from the outside, carefully set the apples in the caramel, arranging them in a circle so that they all face the same way. Set them very close together until the pan is filled with a single layer of the apples. Return the pan to the heat and allow the apples to cook for 5 minutes Remove from heat Place the cold pie dough over the apples, tucking the edges into the sides of the pan, working quickly so as not to burn your fingers or melt the dough Brush the dough with the beaten egg and immediately place into the hot oven

Bake for 15 minutes; lower the temperature to 375ºF and bake until the crust is nicely browned and the caramel is bubbling around the edges of the pan, about an other 15 minutes.

Carefully remove the tar t from the oven and allow to rest in the skillet for about 20 minutes. Inver t the tar t onto a ser ving platter. Best ser ved immediately or allow to cool and warm up before ser ving.

Ambrosia

This new variety was created in BC and is slowly becoming popular for it’s crisp, sweet and juicy texture and f lavour. Great for fresh and baking.

Tar te Tatin

Pork with Potatoes, Peppers and Apples (Aloo aur simla mirch gosht)

by REBECC A WELLMAN

“ A comforting countr y fall dinner”

Mushroom Cappuccino

Mushroom Cappuccino

Whether it’s made with seasonal chanterelles and pine mushrooms or a mix of beautiful button and shiitakes, fresh mushroom soup is ear thy and glorious Whipping the cream and adding just before ser ving makes it bub ble and froth like a savoury cappuccino

Makes 8 cups

A mix of mushrooms, such as chanterelles, pine, field mushrooms, shiitake, 2 lbs

Avalon Butter, 2 tbsp

Sweet onion, finely chopped, 1 Sea salt, 2 tsp

Dr y sherr y or Madeira, 1/2 cup

Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp

Freshly ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp

Chicken stock, 6 cups

35% Heavy Cream, 1 cup

Clean and trim mushrooms. Slice large mushrooms into smaller pieces but don’t finely chop keep pieces slightly chunky. Melt butter in a stockpot or very large wide saucepan set over medium heat Add onions and 1 tsp salt Stir often until soft, 8 to 10 minutes

Deglaze pan with sherry, then add half the mush rooms Cover and increase heat to medium high Stir oc casionally until volume deflates, then add remaining mushrooms Sprinkle with remaining salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir often, until soft, then add stock. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring often until mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes. Use a hand blender to coarsely blitz mushrooms don’t puree soup mushrooms should still be fairly chunky Add more broth if soup is too thick, but keep in mind the cream will thin it out later If making ahead, cover and refrigerate up to 5 days or freeze up to 3 months

Whip cream (add pinches of salt of and pepper if you wish). Spoon a dollop into warm coffee cups or bowls. Ladle hot soup over top. G arnish with slivers of green onion. Ser ve immediately.

Cider Braised Pork

Anything slow cooked is pure comfor t food and this braised pork is incredibly rich and soul satisfying. Pick up a jug or two of har vest apple cider at your local mar ket. A good splash of local mead adds honey caramel flavour that turns into a wicked sauce when pureed with the slow roasted onions and caraway seeds Ser ves 8

Bone in pork shoulder, 6 to 8 lbs

Olive oil

Avalon butter, 2 tbsp

Garlic cloves, minced, 5

Onions, thinly sliced, 2

Sea salt, 1 tsp

Caraway seeds, 1 tsp

Mead, 1 cup*

Apple Cider* , preferably unfiltered, 2 to 3 cups

Score fat on top of pork. Coat a very large wide saucepan or small roasting pan just large enough to hold pork with oil and set over medium high heat Sear pork, 2 minutes per side, then remove from pan Reduce heat to medium and add butter. When melted stir in garlic, onions, salt and caraway seeds. Cook until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Deglaze pan with mead, then add 2 cups cider. Bring to a boil, then add meat. The liq uid should only come about halfway up the meat Add remaining cider, if necessary Cover with a tight fitting lid and braise in preheated

300F oven, turning meat over every hour until tender This will take about 31/2 to 4 hours.

Place meat on a cutting board and cover with foil to keep warm. Let stand at least 20 minutes before slicing. While meat is resting, puree sauce, then return to saucepan Boil, stirring often, until thickened Thickly slice pork and ser ve with sauce

Finishing Trick: A fresh herb puree adds another layer of flavour to the finished dish Coarsely chop 1 bunch cilantro, then place in a blender Pour 1/3 cup warm olive oil and 1/2 tsp sea salt over top Whirl until pureed Add more oil if mixture is too thick you want to lightly driz zle over the thick slices of pork.

*Try a local mead from Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery It's sold in many liquor stores on the Island as well as Vancouver www tugwellcreekfarm com/buy htm Or pick up something from Middle Mountain Mead from Hornby Island middlemountainmead com/wheretobuy

If you don't want to use mead, substitute with bourbon, Madeira or white wine

*Try cider from the Island.

Merridale Estate Cider y www.merridalecider.com

Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse www.seacider.ca

a celebration of the season.

Cinnamon Baked Apples with Hazelnut-Fennel Brittle

Celer y Root & Cauliflower Puree

This is tangier than regular mashed potatoes and has a pleasant rooty funk to it too.

Ser ves 8

Cauliflower, 2 heads

Garlic cloves, 2

Celer y root, peeled, 1 bulb

Homogenized milk, 1 cup

Bay leaves, 2 Sea salt, 1/2 tsp

Chopped fresh thyme, 2 tbsp

Cut cauliflower into florets and chop celer y root. Place in a large saucepan and add milk, bay leaves and salt Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes Don’t worry if milk splits

Strain into a food processor and reser ve milk Whirl until pureed This may take a few minutes as mixture is thick Add enough reser ved milk to smooth out Stir in thyme If making ahead, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Mixture will water out as it sits, but come together again once it’s reheated.

Cinnamon Baked Apples with Hazelnut-Fennel Brittle

Baked apples satisfy the craving for apple pie without the commitment The spiced nut brittle adds a caramelized crunch reminiscent of candied apples.

Brittle

Hazelnuts, whole, toasted and skinned, 1 cup

Granulated sugar, 1 cup

Water, 1/4 cup

Babe’s honey, 2 tbsp

Salt, 1/4 tsp

Fennel seeds, 1 tbsp

Baked Apples

Brown sugar, 3/4 cup

Ground cinnamon, 2 tsp

Apples, 8 medium, such as local Gravenstein, Spar tan, Jonagold, Rome Beauty or Spy Butter, softened, 8 tsp

For the brittle, coarsely chop hazelnuts. Measure out 1/3 cup and set aside. Fineley chop remaining nuts and set those aside for the apples. The best way to approach brittle is not to rush and keep the heat moderate. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper In a thick bottomed medium sauce pan, stir sugar with water, honey and salt over low heat until dissolved Increase heat to medium and let boil and bubble until light amber Occasionally (and carefully) swirl pan to pre vent any dark spots This will take about 4 to 5 minutes Immediately pour onto parch ment Tilt baking sheet to spread out as thin as possible and sprinkle with chopped nuts and fennel. Let cool completely. Break into shards.

For the apples, in a bowl, mix brown sugar with cinnamon and finely chopped nuts. Trim bottoms of apples so they sit flat. Core apples, using a melon baller. Peel a 1/2 inch ring around the cored opening. Stuff apples with cinnamon sugar mixture. Press 1 tsp butter into top of each.

Place in a 9X13 inch baking dish Pour in 1/4 cup water Cover and bake in preheated 375F oven for 40 minutes Uncover and continue to bake until very tender, 10 to 20 more minutes Pierce with a sharp knife to check they are soft all the way through Ser ve with vanilla ice cream and tuck in shards of brittle

We love sharing our passion for tea. Explore tea history and tea culture by attending a traditional Tea Ceremony. Tantalize your taste buds with a visit to our Tea Tasting Bar. Take a Cooking with Tea class, learn about the

the world of rare tea varietals.

Exper teas

Check out our events calendar at www.silkroadtea.com for tea tastings, workshops and activities. There’s always something brewing at Silk Road!

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

, starting as early as late August, are filled with an abundance o f g o r g e o u s a p p l e s . S e e k o u t l o c a l orchards at B.C. Orchard Listings for fresh apple cider and tart baking apples.

THE GOURMET ISLANDS

The South Island is known for the wide variety and quality of its restaurants Walking down the streets of Victoria, smells enchant you and entice you to walk through the doors and pamper your appetite Fine dining is the order of the day, and in locales such as Sooke, Metchosin, Saanich and Sidney, there is something for the epicurean in all of us. Pacific Northwest cuisine combines the finest ingredients on land with the freshest items of the sea, and brings culinary masterpieces to the table with flavour, colour and exciting textures

The Gulf Islands are fast becoming a culinary and agri tourism destination In these small artisan communities, including Salt Spring, Galiano and Pender Island, see first hand how local cheeses and wines are made The cottage industries specializing in organics, locally grown produce and the highest quality delicacies are a mainstay in the region Come to the area and sample wood fired breads, fresh cheeses and handmade charcuterie.

Welcome to the Islands

popular in the mid Island region. Come get a taste of the best Nanaimo has to offer at Bite of Nanaimo, a sample of the area’s finest restaurants, held annually in September

If you love the coast, and have a passion for fresh seafood, the North Central Island is calling

Fresh seafood, particularly oysters, is a favourite among locals and visitors alike In the areas from Fanny Bay to Oyster River, many restaurants offer their interpretations of how an oyster should be served From cold, freshly shucked oysters eaten raw, to crisp deep fried oysters with a spritz of lemon and remoulade, you’ll find delectable dishes to tempt your palate

The North Island region has a flavour all its own Rich in First Nations history, the seafood caught here, and their unique preparations, are a must see for any culinary adventurer Take a trip to Fort Rupert, just outside Port Hardy, and experience the traditional native methods for curing and smoking salmon Step inside a traditional big house in Alert Bay and let the smoke aroma embrace you as salmon is cooked on cedar planks and smoked between cedar trellises over an open flame. Take home a taste of Vancouver Island with these First Nations specialties

Perhaps your idea of perfection is having the various culinary delights prepared and served in luxurious settings In the Pacific Rim communities of Tofino and Ucluelet, world class resorts abound and 5 star dining experiences are at your fingertips From the elegant dining rooms, watch the waters of the Pacific smash against the rocks below, as you dive into regional delights such as fresh, wild salmon, sea scallops and butterflied prawns.

The Cowichan region is the libation hot spot of Vancouver Island. Some of the finest wines and ciders in British Columbia are produced in this region, a nd several companies offer tasting tours, allowing you to sample delicious beverages, often paired with regional cheeses and cuisine The meaderies in the Cowichan area are also buzzing with activity, and offer visitors an opportunity to experience the centuries old brewing technique, all the while savouring the sumptuous amber liquid

The Central Island, including Nanaimo, Ladysmith and Parksville, is known for its unusual agricultural offerings, such as emu, lamb and goat Take part in weekend cooking classes and see how to prepare organic produce and game Take a guided mushroom picking tour in the area, and create memorable dishes from items you’ve foraged from the damp Vancouver Island soil. Culinary and food based festivals are also

The bounty of Vancouver Island is ripe for the picking; smell the aromas, taste the flavours, and hear the region calling out for you to experience the opulent delights of this gastronomic epicentre

For more information on the Vancouver Island region or to order your free Vacation Guide, please call: 1 888 655 3483 or visit VancouverIsland travel

Start at the southern tip of Vancouver Island and work your way north as you embark on a culinary journey that is a feast for both the stomach, and the senses.

Best Western Tin Wis Resort

Tofino, B.C.

Take a moment and relish the beauty of the sunset over Mackenzie beach in our First Nations themed dining room. Savour the taste of the area with our local wines and B.C. Fresh menu created by Margot Bodchon, C.C.C. Afterwards, return to your room to relax on your oceanfront balcony. Discover the Spirit!

Comox-Valley and-environs

The new kid on t he bloc k in our region is Locals [364 8th Street, Cour tenay 250 338 6493], where Chef Ronald St Pierre and staf f make it their mission to celebrate the gastronomic pleasures of putting the “100 Mile Diet” into practice Executive Chef, Norman Müller, a European trained chef with over 18 years of international “luxur y market” experience, takes over the kitchen at Crown Isle’s Silverado Steakhouse [399 Clubhouse Drive, Cour tenay 250 703 5050] At a higher elevation, downtown Cour tenay’s Beyond t he Kitc hen Door [274B 5th St, 250 338 4404] and Mt. Washington Alpine Resor t may have already wrapped up their 1st Annual Alpine Food Festival ( Sept 5 7, co sponsored by EAT Magazine). Passion for local produce is the theme, with a host of featured chefs (Karen Barnaby, Eric Akis, Jim Lalic, Wes Erikson and Christine Lilyholm) www mountwashington ca/foodfestival The autumnal buzz in Comox is that Avenue Bis tro [2064 Comox Ave, 250 890 9200 www avenuebistro ca] is of fering “wine flights” a sample selection of three wines for the price of a glass Features change regularly with both a white and red trio, celebrating local and international wines Tasting notes are included with the flights Avenue has also in troduced a cheese plate to compliment the wine tasting experience Back in Cour tenay, the chefs at Atlas Café [250 6th Street, Cour tenay 250.338.9838] are working the region’s bountiful fall har vest into the nightly fresh sheets Meanwhile, the regular menu shif ts to wards more hear ty comfor t food Suggestions: root vegetable mash, creamy pastas, and braised meats to warm your body and soul as the leaves turn and the weather cools

A recent visit to Bisque [14th and Clif fe Ave , Cour tenay 250 334 8564] confirmed the rumours I’d been hearing about the good things that Chef Steve Dodd and company are up to Lunch is casual, dinner is more formal Reser vations are suggested

The area has sprouted a couple of restaurants featuring Mexican food, but my favourite remains T ita’s [536 6th Street, Cour tenay 250.334.8033] and not just because they make my margaritas exactly as I like (thanks) They always have the “freshest” fresh fruit drinks around This summer I par ticularly enjoyed the sour cherr y version, with cherries

picked from the garden surrounding the patio dining area Pear and quince versions are on deck for the Fall season, as is creamy squash soup with chilies made with garden picked squash And where else can I get such a fresh, zesty ceviché? For a taste of middle eastern and Moroccan food, downtown’s tiny Zizi Café [441B Clif fe Avenue 250 334 1661] of fers

a lot to choose from I like to drop by for a quick snack (the pizzas have a great rep, and I’m par tial to the felafel) and a demi tasse of thick cof fee

The Comox Valley boasts a long and beautiful Fall season V isitor s who want to stay more than a day or two, and who want to be within a few blocks of most of the area’s great places to eat should check out the growing vacation home rental roster at 250 338 0438 or 250 338 3113 or www blueberr ycottage ca

Up the road in Cumberland, The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, 250 336 8831] is happy to be bringing Daniel Ar senault onto the full time staf f lineup Owner s Nicola Cuhna and Jean Francois Larche wish all the best to former staf fer, Tracy Dixon, who is heading to Berkeley, California Back on the menu for the fall will be Nicola's pavlova with cardamom whipped cream and mango curd. Patrons should look for the next street food event on Sept 13 Reser vations are necessar y at The Great Escape

South of town in Coombs, a little cottage close to the market action is the location of Kiki Spice [266 Alberni Hwy, Coombs (250) 927 5454 / www kikispice com] A friend and I recently enjoyed a mar velous dining experience at the hands of chef Lela Perkins Things are changing at Kiki’s, so best to view up & coming menus online —Hans Peter Meyer

The ‘N aimo’ Cowic han Valley, N anaimo, Oceanside

because you’d be doomed Most grocer y store “fresh” pasta turns to mush 10 seconds af ter hitting boiling water Not so the pasta of Max Del Vecchio and Carlie Goring This is the kind of pasta you would buy if living in Italy. It gives all other pastas the boot…so to speak. Max was raised in Milan and Carlie, a west coast gal, has 8 years of living in Italy under her belt Both are consummate pasta per fectionists They use only organic eggs, semolina flour and water Their equipment comes from Italy, as does their estate grown olive oil and top grade cheeses Their reper toire includes a vast array of pasta shapes and sizes, as well as nubile stuf fed pastas, sauces, pestos and “lie and say you made it” scrumptious lasagna. What more is there to say but, “Mangi! Mangi!”

Pas ta Fresca [101 149 Fulford Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island Tel: 250 537 8588]

Nanaimo Harbour

Pacif ic Prime Steak & Chop Res taurant (The Beach Club Resor t, 181 Beachside Drive, Parksville Tel: 250 248 8999) sits on million dollar real estate, right on the beach in Parksville The view is to die for, but wait until you taste the steaks Carnivores, you need to know about this spot First off, the lounge and dining room (inside and outside seat ing) are sophisticated and elegant thanks to the talents of Kimberly W illiams Design, a company that does West Coast chic well. Then there is the well craf ted menu from Chef Richard Zinger You will never need to ask, “ Where’s the beef?” because the well aged Al ber ta AAA is right here Better yet, it is grilled on a Montague Grill that can crank it up to 1800 Fahrenheit (think Ruth’s Chris) for a flawless finish that creates a flavor ful outer crust while retaining natural juices Non meat eaters are not overlooked Red chili pepper flash grilled giant tiger prawns will have you licking the plate and the local chipotle crusted roast halibut, when in season, is done plump and moist Back to the steaks Zinger lives up to his last name with a 14 ingredient spice rub for the steaks that is a trade secret This man is not afraid to kick it up a notch! As well, there are five side “ au jus” accompaniments to go along with your steak such as a bleu cheese and veal demi or the “Hunter” with sautéed mushrooms (I was tempted to do shooters of this stuf f and drink it right out of the ser ving vessel) Even desser ts stay “ on theme” with a fun and inventive grilled pineapple “chop” ser ved with decadent rosemar y vanilla whipping cream The wine list needs an educated retooling but there are a few wor thy finds

Peter Er tsos knows ever yone in Nanaimo Fur thermore, he’s been feeding most of them for over fif teen years Er tsos has never been one to dial it back on décor, so prepare your self when entering Llios Mediterranean Restaurant [215 N Terminal Ave, Nanaimo Tel: 250 754 1122] as it looks like it was done over by Pricilla Queen of the Deser t during his/her turquoise period On a rainy night the glass ceiling gives the place a magical am biance and the six zillion plants provide a cer tain “Dr Livingston I Presume” charm The menu hails from a number of countries around the circumference of the Aegean and Mediterranean with a distinct nod to Greece If tentacles are your thing, scuba dive into the warm calamari salad, but brings friends as the ser vings are huge! The Saganaki rocks; it is made with real Kefalogravriera, which is like a Greek Gruyere There is something for ever yone on the menu from the # 1 seller of roast lamb, to the award winning veggie

There is nothing “nouvelle” about any of the food and that brings great com for t It is simple traditional French bistro cuisine Richly flavoured soupe a l’oignon au gratin, escargot doing the breast stroke in garlic and butter, crepes, both savor y and sweet, sole meuniere, a respectable filet mignon Bordelais and a divine crème brulee that is best applied directly to the hips because who are we kidding, that is exactly where it is headed. With the new Vancouver Island Convention Centre now open across the street, get in soon before you find yourself in a que outside with your nose pressed against the glass like Julie Andrew’s in V ictor V ictoria Su Grimmer

Voya in the Loden, while Mike Mitchell (ex CinCin, Beach House) has signed on to become the operations manager at FigMint In event news, the always enjoyable Feast of Fields comes to UBC on September 7th, and the Gold Medal Plates competition, which will see BC's top chefs cook of f for a chance to represent the province against Canada's best at the 2009 Canadian Culinar y Champi onships, takes place on November 5th at Coal Harbour's Wes tin Bayshore Andrew Morrison

TOFINO

Another exciting couple of months have brought us a brace on new food experiences wor th checking out, among them two highly anticipated, high end Italian themed restaurants: La Quercia on the west side and Cibo Trattoria in downtown's Moda Hotel (look for reviews in our next issue) La Quercia, located in the old Masa a la Car te spot, is chef fed/owned by Adam Pegg and Lucais Syme, two for mer cooks from Andrey Durbach's mini empire (Parkside, Labuca, Pied a Terre) Cibo is a sleek looker right beside Uva Wine Bar Its kitchen is in the hands of Neil Taylor, an experienced Brit im por t, while the front is run by Sahara Tamarin (once upon a time a member of the team that opened Aurora Bistro) Other new restaurants include DiVino, a new wine and charcuterie bar on Commercial Drive next to Dolce Amore; a new comfort food joint from chef Wayne Mar tin called Crave Beachside in West Van couver's old and storied Beachside spot (reviewed in our next issue); a new catering/restaurant operation called Two Chefs and a Table in Gastown; and by the time this goes to print, the long looked for ward to Voya in the Loden Hotel will finally open, just a year behind schedule Closures include the shor t lived Flite in Yaletown and Bliss Asian Bis tro at the foot of Denman (slated to become a second incarnation of Crime Lab, which used to be a few blocks away on West Pender until it went under a few years back) As for restaurants that are opening soon, there are several currently in the works Le Faux Bourgeois should be up and running on East 15th once this issue hits the streets It'll be courtesy of Stephan Gagnon (ex Jules Bistro) and Andreas Seppelt (of Go Fish!) with the bistro, moonlighting pan stylings of chef T ina Fineza (don't worr y, she won't be permanently leaving her kitchen at Kitsilano's Flying T iger). In Gastown, Sean Heather's new Irish Heather is still under construction In Kits, the 1800 block of West 4th will soon see the second location of Pinky's Steakhouse, the second location of PHAT (both with original locations in Yaletown), and a modern Greek restaurant specialis ing in small plates and Greek wines called Piato (Greek for "plate") On the east side, the cheesy folks behind Les Amis du Fromage have a new wine and cheese bar in the works called Au Petit Chavignol (due 2009), while restaurateurs Tom Doughty and Rober t Belcham of Fuel Restaurant are planning a new Ital ian resto on Main called Campagnolo Yaletown awaits the new Earls mega monstrosity (this Fall) and a new location of the Hurricane Grill (in the recently shut Bardot space) Nearby, the Opus Hotel has submitted plans for city approval of a new roof top restaurant, while a few door s down on Mainland St a mysterious project called R.TL (shor t for Regional Tasting Lounge) is currently under the hammer and saw. It has attracted the front of house talents of Alain Canuel, formerly the GM of FigMint In other personnel news, Jay Jones has lef t his job as head drink bwana for Donnell y Hospit ality Management (owner of many Vancouver pubs) to become bar manager at

The diner season returns for 2008. Sadly the sum mer is over, however as I always say, September is one of my favourite months in Tofino This summer saw a few changes around town, and I highly recommend check ing out some of these changes

Trilogy Café at the Tofino Botanicals is under new direction since this past July A trio of talented professionals have created a recipe for success, in my opinion, with an almost Café Pam plona (2000 2004 at the TBG) feeling to it Chef Geof f Laith waite, (April Point Lodge, Dennis Washington Group) designs his menus daily, using fresh and local ingredients combined with a style that reflects honesty and simplicity Hosts, ISG Sommelier Kirk Hampton (L umiere, Aerie Resor t, Quails Gate) and Daniel Rabu (Gourmet by the Sea, Panache) welcome guests with warmth, humour, and are sincere, friendly and professional This fall they plan to host an Oys ter Chowder Fes tival and Special Event W inemaker’s Dinner as well as a Fungi Dinner

Open 7 days a week, breakfast, lunch, dinner and catering 1084 Pacific Rim Highway (Tofino Botanical Gardens) 250 725 2247

trilogycafe ca

Speaking of oysters, the 12th Annual Clayoquot Oyster Fes tival will take place November 21 23 and tickets for select events go on sale October 1st, available at W ildside Book sellers While I do not know the entire list of events surrounding the weekend yet, updates will be posted on the website, which is also getting a facelif t 250 725 4222 oystergala com

Cedar Corner welcomes new businesses, Cedar Corner Ar t Galler y and Hungr y Bear Naturals (formerly 4th Street Nat ural Market). Doug Wright aims to bring health and sustainabil ity together as he owns the Tofino F itness, in the basement of Cedar Corner, and currently carries a variety of organic health foods at Hungr y Bear Naturals, including locally grown Medicine Farm Greens, Clayoquot Botanicals, organic and wild craf ted herbal teas, tinctures and salves, Sea Wench, organic skin care, beauty products and bio degradable cleaning products, bread from 600 Degrees and organic vegan muf fins and cookies from Sweet T’s Cake and Pas tr y. Gord Johns had a successful Galler y launch in early July, featuring local ar tists of all media, right above Eco Ever ything, Johns’ eco friendly clothing shop 4th and Campbell Street 250 725 8008 (Hungr y Bear)

Breakers Whole Food Eater y recently launched oppor tu nity for the purchase of a franchise; with principle guidelines to

act in a socially and environmentally responsible manner, as well as making sure the quality of their foods also reflect these values Trish Dixon has owned and operated this successful business for 10 year s For more information on this, please contact Trish Dixon 430 Campbell Street 250 725 2558 breakersdeli com

Black Rock Oceanfront Resor t in Ucluelet is expected to open this fall, with a management team that includes 2 locals; Chef Andrew Springett (Wickaninnish Inn) and Director of Op erations, Carly Hall (Long Beach Lodge Resor t) The resor t is par t of the Boutique Hotels & Resor ts of British Columbia, which also includes the Okanagan Valley’s Cove Lakeside Resor t as well as The Outback, Whistler’s Nita Lake Lodge and Victoria’s Oswego Hotel. Amenities of the Black Rock Resort include a 90 seat fine dining restaurant with 30 seat patio, 50 seat Wave Bar with fireplace, and ocean view, librar y and inter net stations, fitness centre, spa, 3 hot pools overlooking the ocean and The W ine Cave an ideal settings for groups & intimate events Blackrockresor t com

The Ancient Cedars Spa at the Wickaninnish Inn was recently voted #1 Hotel Spa in the Continental U S and Canada, and Best Hotel Spa Overall (worldwide), by readers of Travel + Leisure, in the publication's annual World's Best sur vey The Inn was also voted #5 Hotel in the Continental U S and Canada, and #1 in Canada Congratulations to the team at the W ickaninnish Inn! 800 333 4604 wickinn com —Kira Rogers

Okanag an

A visit to The Terrace at Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoo is an ex perience that will enchant you From the food, to the ar t, to the view to the overall aboriginal histor y lesson and spiritual vibe you will want to book a room and sleep over And finally, Sumac Ridge’s culinar y world has been rocked with the addition of fab ulous Executive Chef Roger Planiden to their Cellar Door Bistro. Enjoy his beautiful locally inspired dishes and innovative pairings how about some Stellar’s Jay bubbly with some truffled popcorn to star t? Luckily this one is open most of the year they only close for Januar y and Februar y

Ever yone knows about our wines, but have you experienced that which comes from our other fruits? Raven Ridge Cider y in Kelowna’s orchard district has per fected a libation that people are raven’ about. New on their list this Fall to accompany their lineup of iced apple cider s, comes the elegant Anjou Pear Iced Cider It truly emanates the taste of an Okanagan summer www ravenridgecider y com

Embrace your inner Piggy on your next visit to Penticton’s lakeshore! Piggy’s BarBQ is a cool, rustic eater y located across the street from Lake Okanagan that turns out finger licking BarBQ slow cooked Southern style. From slabs of fall of f the bone ribs to bbq’d chicken halves to sandwiches loaded with pulled pork or beef brisket, plan to order a beer and park yourself for a spell Hire them to cater your next par ty who can resist a mess of ribs with a side of collard greens? 914 Lakeshore Drive

Neil Schroeter, former Chef de Cuisine at the ‘Cellar Door Bistro’ at Sumac Ridge Estate W iner y in Summerland has star ted up a new business called Okanag an Street Food Chef Schroeter of fer s a wide variety of gourmet ser vices including catering platters, executive box lunches as well as a fab Market menu available at farmer’s markets across the Okanagan (check website for dates) Neil’s fresh pastas (made with only free run eggs and semolina), pasta sauces, and soups are now available at Kelowna’s Okanagan Grocer y Ar tisan Breads (Guisachan V illage) www okanaganstreetfood com

There may be that telltale hint of autumn coolness in the evening air, but as the Okanagan’s signature long summer drag promises, the life al fresco rages on Make sure to take advantage of these bril liant patio evenings here before the season ends. “Musts” are the glorious, though sadly seasonal, winer y restaurant decks that pro vide world class views to pair with the stellar cuisine being cre ated by our growing reper toire of world class Chef s The Fall Wine Fes tival is the per fect time to tour these hot spots allow ing one to swirl and sip outdoors with the rest of the vines Patios to hit: Michael Allemeier leads the pack at the glorious Terrace Res taurant at Mission Hill W iner y (ahem voted one of the Top 5 W iner y Restaurants in the WORLD!) Chef Judith Knight, the brilliant new addition to CedarCreek’s Terrace Res taurant is one not to be missed (fun trivia: Judith was once personal Chef to Kevin Costner!) Not a winer y, but Water front W ines can be included in this wine categor y and Chef Mark Filatow’s food and awesome wine list keeps his deck consistently packed at downtown’s awardwinning Water front W ines (even without a view) Hillside Es tate Winer y in Naramata boasts a super cool setting on their vineyard venue and Chef Peter Young continues to wow with his delicious nosh the Crispy Oysters with Naramata Granny Smith apples, sundried tomatoes & roast chili cream is something to fantasize about Then there is Burrowing Owl in Oliver oh my! Chef Bernard Casavant paired with that view is unforgettable

Okanagan foodie visitors may want book their next visit at “A View of the Lake” bed and breakfast in Kelowna. Chef Steve Mar ston and his wife Chrissy will ser ve you a gourmet three course breakfast each day Chef Marston is also available for pri vate dinner par ties, demonstrations and cooking classes in his in house demonstration kitchen www aviewof thelake com

The Okanagan Chef’s Association is thrilled to announce that they will be hosting the CCF’s (Canadian Culinar y Federa tion) National Convention this year. The OC A is a non profit soci ety whose primar y purpose is to network and promote culinar y professionalism They are ver y involved in providing suppor t and mentorship to Junior members, as well as par ticipating in local charity and fundraising ef for ts Chairman of the Board, Chef Rod Butters (Fresco Res taurant) is Chairing the "Convention Com mittee" and planning a bevy of activities for our guests This food writer is looking for ward to the wave of culinar y genius heading our way perhaps some will choose to stay?

Congratulations to the Culinar y Ar ts Depar tment at The Okanagan College who have successfully accomplished organiz ing the immigration of 60 Jamaican Chefs to Kelowna W ith the lack of kitchen staf f in our bustling Valley, and Jamaica suf fering huge unemployment issues, the Okanagan College and the Eco nomic Development Commission were thrilled at this initiative coming to fruition All Jamaican cooks are registered to complete the culinar y program at the College and then will be placed into the welcoming hands of various restaurants about town with im migration status already in place! Welcome Jamaica!

—Jennifer Schell

The Garden City V ictoria

ing education sector has added a Sus t ainable Gas tronomy depar tment with courses on “Bread & Wheat,” “Chocolate: Food of the Gods,” (you get to eat chocolate in class!), “Food Culture: Fast Food to Slow Food,” and “Malt Whisky: A Flavour Journey ” (www continuingstudies uvic ca/gastronomy/courses aspx )

Silk Road Tea on Government is hosting a series of classes in cluding a “Chinese Tea Ceremony Tasting,” “Introduction to Tea and Food Pairing,” and “Collector’s Edition Darjeeling Teas ” Some events, like the Pink Tea Par ty in October are free, others are a pittance 250 704 2688 to register or drop by the shop

Victorian eater s and food maker s are distinguishing themselves as a politically for ward group In government the NDP is taking action against Premier Campbell’s policies on agriculture. Farmers are deeply concerned that Campbell’s fuel tax undermines the move ment of suppor ting local food production by making it more ex pensive for small farms to transpor t their produce while leaving external sources of food untaxed Also, a new Meat Inspection Regulation illegalizes sales at the farm gate squeezing small meat producers out of business In 2001, the Campbell govern ment ended suppor t for the Buy BC program At its peak, Buy BC was one of the most successful government and agri food indus tr y collaboratives identifying homegrown foods with a well rec ognized logo Now a farmer s market regulation has been imposed stating that fruit or egg based products can no longer sell without written permission Read more on the NDP’s position against Campbell’s agricultural policies at www bcndpcaucus ca/en/

In a watershed move, V ictoria citizens are taking agricultural matters into their own hands by star ting a Save the Madrona Farm campaign Located on Blenkinsop road, the farm is a model of successful local and sustainable food production, but is under heavy development pressure The newly formed Friends of Madrona Farm Society have entered a deal with the Land Conser vancy to raise a portion of the funds required to purchase Madrona Farm and secure its land under the TLC trust V isit www.madronafarm.com to learn more about the farm.

Brilliant idea! V ictoria’s PL AY (Par tnership for Learning and Advocacy for Young Children) has identified a list of eateries in V ictoria that welcome the little guys Locales will display a de signed PL AY symbol There are lots of good ones on there (Spinnakers, Discover y Coffee, Red Fish Blue Fish ) Go to www playvictoria org and look for the Early Year s Community Appreciation Awards for a complete list

Back to School. It’s a sign of the times when public institutions can get behind a movement The University of V ictoria’s continu

The Wine and Spirits Education Trus t courses Levels I and II will be of fered in V ictoria this October (see www winecollege ca) and The Res taurant Coac h is helping the ser ver s of V ictoria learn proper dining room etiquette Classes star t September 27, visit www westshorecentre com to register Plenty Epicurean Pantr y plans to launch its book club in the back to school sea son, discussing works of the gastronomic persuasion over tea and morsels Drop in for details or call the shop at 250 380 7654

The perpetual dance of the chef shuf fle continues with former Island Chef Collaborative Chair Genevieve Laplante signing on as Poets Cove Resor t and Spa’s new Executive Chef Watch for her roots as a Salt Spring Island farm kid to influence the menu Marcus Sawatzky, a self proclaimed ‘wine geek’ has lef t his position as Bear foot Bis tro’s sommelier to join Nic he as W ine Guy The restaurant aims to increase their vintage collec tion under Sawatzky’s razor sharp tutelage and throw more local beer and wine events Paprika Bistro owners are making a pre emptive sell to have more time for family and travel Rumour has it Charelli’s has found a larger location to spread its wings a bit And at The Marina, Kazu joins the sushi team and Brad Lewis moves into a Sous Chef position W ith new ar t on the walls from a local ar tist and a revamped wine list, change is in the air Drumroll please the results of the 2008 Phantom Dinner, put on by the V ictoria Of fice of the BC Res taurant and Food ser vices Association, are in Customer Ser vice Award, based on the actual dining experience, went to O Bis tro A three member judging panel of the City’s top Chefs awarded the Culinar y Ar ts award to Blue Crab Bar & Grill The People’s Choice Award, based on the display menus located at the Bay Centre for the two weeks prior to the event went to Nautical Nellie’s Steak and Seafood House

BC Ferries is taking the sting out of rising fares and early morning commutes by giving their Pacific Buf fet a complete over haul Fresh blueberries, a platter with goat and cow cheeses, edamame salad, lox and Indian Candy salmon are replacing the old menu standbys New glass and plate ware present the changes elegantly Thank manager of food and beverage Hans Zimmer man next time you find yourself on the ferr y with a steaming cup of Salt Spring Cof fee, a freshly made omelette with goat cheese, and ruby red bowl of plump strawberries.

Katie Zdybel

wines for great everyday drinking

by Larr y Arnold

THE WINES

Censo Scurati Nero D’Avola 2006 Italy $24.00-27.00

There is nothing shy about this thick concentrated red from the dusty plains of Sicily Rich and spicy, with complex aromas of cherry, black licorice and burnt rubber that continue to open up with a little time in the glass Full bodied with intense fruit flavours, plenty of grip and a long smooth finish

Circus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Argentina, $14.00-17.00

This inexpensive little brut from the foothills of the Andes must be one of the best buys in the Dominion Always a dependable choice for a well made wine at an affordable price! Medium bodied and silky smooth with cherry, spice and cassis aromas that fill the glass and carry on through the palate culminating in a soft mellow finish.

Benvenuto Barbera 2006, Italy, $6.95 $10.95

There is nothing fancy about this wine, but at this price it is wor th every penny Fresh and easy drinking with simple fruit flavours, nice balance and a clean soft finish with just enough acidity to keep it interesting. A great everyday wine for the table.

Ricossa Barbera D’Asti 2005, Italy, $16.00 18.00

In British Columbia when you come across a Barbera for under twenty bucks, the most pru dent course of action to take is to quicken your pace and not look back. Cheap Barbera will take the enamel off your teeth and forever tarnish your reputation along with anything else it comes into contact with. There are exceptions… This is one of them! Cherry scented with soft fruit flavours, fresh acidity and a firm, dry finish. Very good with tomato based sauces (pizza, pasta, etc).

Pillar Box Red 2006, Australia, $20.00 23.00

Not quite the budget quaffer it is in Australia but great value nonetheless. Pillar Box is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged in French and American oak. It is full bodied and jam packed with layers of juicy red berry flavours and a smooth easy drinking finish

Montebuena Rioja 2004, Spain, $16.00 19.00

This must be considered one of the best values to be found in your nearest reputable wine store If it is not stocked, move to greener pastures down the road! It is not a blockbuster but considering the price has surprising depth with ripe cherry, mineral and spice flavours and a fine patina of tannin

Vina Alarba Old Vine Garnacha 2004, Spain, $14.00 16.00

Whenever you come across a 90 point Parker wine for about fifteen bucks, you should calmly but quickly force yourself up off the couch, turn off the TV and run down to your favourite liquor store to pick up a case or two You will not regret it Made from 50 100 year old vines from hillside vineyards, this delicious red is full bodied with lovely raspberry, spice and mineral notes on the palate Very complex and seriously tasty

CONT ’D BOTTOM OF TH E N E XT PAGE

Eagerly Awaited 2005 Bordeaux Hits BC Shores

In the wine industry there is a saying that June determines the quantity of a vintage, August the character and September the quality Warm sunny weather in June will ensure a successful pollination of the vineyard, with each pollinated flower hopefully becoming a ripe grape about 100 days later Good weather is crucial to ensure this happens evenly throughout the vineyard. August determines the sugar levels, acidity, tannins and the many other components that will ultimately determine what the finished product tastes like. Warm, dry weather through September ripens the grapes ensuring that they are phys iologically mature before har vest and the autumn rains set in.

In a nutshell, 2005 in Bordeaux was almost perfect! For the most par t, days were sunny and warm with very little rain spread out through the growing season It was a drought year but it did not have the torrid heat of 2003 and though the days were warm, the nights were very cool This diurnal fluctuation in the temperature allows the vines to produce the necessary sugar but at the same time maintain sufficient acidity to balance the sweetness Through September and into October the weather held and the crop har vested in perfect health with good sugar, acid, and tannins.

From the beginning the trade and press realized that 2005 could turn out to be one of the greatest vintages of the modern era. Comparisons were made with 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990 and 2000. By all accounts this is not hype! Consensus regarding the vintage is all but unan imous. If there is a problem, it is regarding the alcohol levels of some of the finished wines, in par ticular the merlot based wines of the right bank (St Emilion, Pomerol, etc) In some cases, natural alcohol ranged between 13 5% and 15% whereas 12% to 12 5% is generally the norm This could prove a problem for some, but by and large a majority produced bal anced wines with rich fruit flavours, fresh acidity and ripe tannins

With greatness comes desire and with new markets in the Orient and Russia competing with the west, for a finite amount of collectable Bordeaux, prices have predictably hit an all time high. It is the most expensive vintage ever! But fear not my fellow bottom feeders, there is still hope! There is much fine wine from petite chateaux to be had. These wines lack the cache of the big labels but in good vintages often provide good drinking at very af fordable prices. By

Larr y Arnold

More Wines

Ch La Couranconne Gratitude Cotes Du Rhone Villages 06, France, $24.00-27.00

Rich and powerful with great balance, enticing black raspberry, pepper and ear th nuances, good weigh and a plush velvety texture that really opens up in the glass If that doesn’t get you going have somebody check your pulse

Mission Hill SLC Merlot 04, British Columbia, $40.00-45.00

The next time you are in Kelowna check out this winery It is absolutely incredible and definitely wor th the time and effor t to drive up the hill for a look and a taste Over the years Mission Hill wines have set the standard and with massive new investments in the south Okanagan, look to continue doing so. This rich red is big and chewy with concentrated berry, chocolate and vanilla flavours and a soft silky texture.

Sandhill Syrah Small Lots Phantom Creek Vineyard 06, BC, $35.00 40.00

A seriously delicious wine that is drinking well now but will only get better with a few more years. Full bodied and powerful but at the same time balanced and focused with sweet berry, cherry and spice flavours, velvety tannins and a long, supple finish. Highly recommended if you can find it!

Venturi Schulze Pinot Noir 2005, BC, expensive but good Pinot noir shows great potential on Vancouver Island and there is definately plenty going on in this barrel aged beauty from Cobble Hill. Full bodied with black cherry, violets, ex otic spices, damp ear th and a slight gaminess on the nose, the palate is more of the same and then some with fantastic texture, silky smooth tannins and a long ethereal finish! These three make good wine and I believe this is the best they made to date! Wor th the effor t to seek out

Domaine La Casenove La Garrique 2004, France, $20.00 23.00

This hear ty red is inky black with black cherries, blackberries and fecund black ear th aromas that aggressively assault the olfactory system and stun the palate Not a whole lot of finesse just a whole lot of fruit Highly recommended but not for the timid or meek

O K A N A G A N ROAD TRIP

Summer on the coast is never long or hot enough To catch the last warming rays of the year, head to the Okanagan Our craving for intense heat triggered a recent road trip (quite frankly, we couldn’t afford the Mediterranean) Happily our “cheap date” seduced us with its hidden charms. If you need an excuse to go, time your trip with the Okanagan Wine Festival (October 2 12).

Star t in Osoyoos and work your way nor th. The Hope Princeton highway takes longer, but it’s relaxing and beauti ful The five hour journey left us ravenous, and lunch at Nk’Mip Cellars was the perfect remedy As the name sug gests, Nk’Mip is owned and run by the Osoyoos Indian Band Sitting on the patio, we took in the view: arid deser t, cacti and rattlesnakes had replaced the soggy green coast we left behind. As we nibbled on native Indian themed platters and sipped the 2005 Qwam Qwmt Merlot, vacation mode settled in quickly.

While the valley is well stocked with camping and motel options, an increasing number of wineries provide accom modations A shor t drive north from Nk’Mip takes you to Bur rowing Owl The Guest House offers 10 comfor table rooms, a luxury penthouse, swimming pool and tasting room where you can purchase Burrowing Owl wines In the adjoining Sonora Room restaurant, chef Bernard Casavant works with fresh local ingredients and the presentation is stunning. We are still salivating over a delicious salad of warm goat cheese, golden beets, baby carrots, spiced candied hazel nuts and cherry tomatoes. The Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris was a delectable match Watching the moon rising over the vine yard completed the romantic setting Luckily we had each other

From Burrowing Owl, you are well positioned to explore the cluster of wineries around Oliver including Golden Mile Cel lars, Inniskillin and Hester Creek Many wineries have tast ing rooms where you can try before buying. This is the rule of thumb throughout the Okanagan. Most have complimentary tastings while others request a small donation or fee that may be waived if you purchase a bottle. When cramming in numerous visits, spitting is helpful Having a designated driver is an even better solution We also recommend travel ling with a cooler so that the wine doesn’t cook in your trunk Owned by giant Vincor, Inniskillin benefits from economies of scale It enables them to produce wines at reasonable prices, a challenge for smaller wineries in a region where cost of production is high. Besides offering good value, Inniskillin is among the wineries in the valley experimenting with dif ferent grape varieties. Made from small lots, their Discovery Series gives wine drinkers the oppor tunity to taste varietals atypical of the Okanagan The Chenin Blanc already has a fol lowing and production has grown The new vintage of Zin

fandel absolutely charmed us

At Hester Creek, Rober t Summers is literally cleaning up the estate’s act. He accepted the role of winemaker in 2006 convinced of the proper ty’s potential and lured by the prom ise of a new winery. Huge investment is a trend throughout the Okanagan. When we met Summers this summer, he was itching to show us the blueprints. It should be ready for crush 2009 Change is already palpable in the 2006 and 2007 vin tages and gives hope for the future Hester Creek recently opened a guesthouse and also has plans for a restaurant If you desire an intimate getaway, the Villa is ideal We slept peacefully and woke up to a breakfast of homemade frittata and decadent banana bread.

Leaving Oliver, you can stop off at Jackson Triggs, another Vincor owned winery. The tasting room is staffed with friendly, helpful people. B.C. “icon” wine Osoyoos Larose is also made here. Since the inaugural 2001 vintage, it has im proved steadily Osoyoos Larose looks to Bordeaux for in spiration focusing on one wine made from a blend of five grapes Merlot dominates with Cabernet Sauvignon, Caber net Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot in suppor ting roles Pas cal Madevon, a charismatic Frenchman, belongs to a growing number of expat winemakers lending their exper tise to the Okanagan. He treated us to a component tasting of the 2007 vintage. Holy Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc! Pas cal believes the latter is well suited to the valley: “I have never had as many good Cabernet Francs from France as I have from B C ” Osoyoos Larose followers take note: the 2006 vintage will be released in November Osoyoos Larose demonstrates that the Okanagan can suc ceed with fuller bodied reds For now, it remains an anomaly as lighter reds and whites tend to be more successful The greatest difficulty is fully ripening the grapes in the Okana gan’s short hot season. A lot more care is required in the vine yard according to Wade Stark, Prospect Winery’s winemaker: “We have to work harder than other places in the world be cause the repercussions are greater ”

Before arriving in Penticton, a drive through the wineries around Okanagan Falls is wor th the detour This is one of the prettiest par ts of the valley Plenty of smaller wineries pour a range of wines Check out Stag’s Hollow and Wild Goose

The Naramata Bench also gets our vote for scenery. Many local producers believe it has a unique terroir capable of pro ducing world class wines. They have banded together to pro mote the area. The rest of the Okanagan should learn from their collective effor ts. Visit the tasting rooms at Nichol Vine yard, Laughing Stock, La Frenz and Lake Breeze a must for lunch If you need a place to stay, Lake Breeze, Therapy Vine yards and Elephant Island all have guesthouses The Nara mata Inn is another option and the in house spa will rejuvenate wine weary travellers

Concluding the journey in Kelowna satisfies city cravings and provides a great base for wine touring. On the West Bank, Quail’s G ate is a popular destination and ser ves a lovely Sunday brunch Just up the road, you’ll find Mission Hill, the winery that put the Okanagan on the map Its restau rant patio boasts the most amazing view of the valley On our last visit, we were surprised by the evolution of the reds They have become more restrained and elegant in style The 2006 Reser ve Cabernet Sauvignon and 2004 S L C Syrah were standouts.

South of Kelowna merits exploration as well. Besides a tasting room and delightful restaurant, CedarCreek winery stages sunset concer ts throughout the summer. One of the Okanagan’s true gems is Tantalus, a small winery crafting the valley’s finest Riesling Their success seems to have inspired other wineries to plant Riesling nearby

Our Okanagan fling over, we head home via the fast mov ing Coquihalla Dodging suitcases flying off roof racks, we contemplate the future of the Okanagan The region still has far to go, but we are encouraged by the improvement. Syrah and Riesling especially peak our curiosity. We shall return.

Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard head to the Okanagan for a summer road trip that offer hot weather, warm hospi tality and some cool new wine offerings.

Staying in on e of the suites at Hester Creek Winer y will put you right in the centre of the South Okanagan action

T a s t i n g N o t e s

WH ITE

2007 Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc, $16.90

If you are looking for a slightly more substantial white wine without oak, this is a good choice Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc is a great performer year after year and it complements richer dishes well Try with chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce

2007 See Ya Later Ranch Riesling, $16.99

Simple and well made with good concentration of flavours A fuller style of Riesling oozing with peachy fruit Reminiscent of the Okanagan on a hot summer day

2007 Inniskillin Dark Horse Vineyard Pinot Blanc, $17.99

Is it the 18 year old vines that make this wine a standout? Concentrated aromas of pear, white flowers and kiwi Slightly oily with a long lingering finish

2006 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Grand Reser ve Sauvignon Blanc, $19.99

Made from a cooler site in the South Okanagan Steely and restrained with a creamy mouthfeel, orange peel and grassy notes Bracing acidity keeps this wine refreshing Treat yourself to a glass with Carmelis’ fresh goat cheese.

2007 Twisted Tree Chardonnay, $21.90

A lightly oaked Chardonnay with aromas of baked apple, honey and quince Rich tropical flavours yet balanced by good acidity. A consumer friendly choice.

2007 Laughing Stock Pinot Pinot, $21.90

A blend of 73 percent Pinot Gris and 27 percent Pinot Blanc This Alsace look alike offers honeysuckle, melon and ripe pear aromas. Fuller bodied with good structure. Ser ve well chilled with pork.

R E D

2006 Prospect Winer y Shiraz, $16.99

Distinct Syrah aromas, slightly meaty with black and red currant. Bright, lifted and balanced. Unlike its Aussie name, it’s French in style. Our first sip excited us about Syrah in the Okanagan

2006 Sandhill Syrah, $19.99 (White Label)

Ser ved blind, we thought this wine was a cool climate Aussie Shiraz Displays a classic gamey Shiraz character Totally delicious, especially with a piece of juicy red meat

2005 Nk'Mip Qwam Qwmt Merlot, $24.99

Full bodied with ripe plum, vanilla, tobacco and cocoa flavours It will keep your guests happy on a Friday night No food required

2006 Mission Hill Reser ve Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.99

Pure Cabernet character Fresh red fruit keeps the wine elegant and refreshing Honestly made A style the Okanagan should strive for Bravo!

by Ceara Lornie

Lisa Metz Tita’s Mexican Restaurant

250.334.80 33

Back when we lived on Maurelle Island, we har vested nine big bushel baskets from our five apple trees one fall There was one tree with apples so fragrant they tasted like peaches and apricots. I think it was a Cox's Orange/ Pippin cross. It was the same year my new pantry was built so there was actually some where to put all those apples Their fragrance filled the whole house and blended with the smells of fresh baking and wood smoke to create a scent that made you want winter to come!

Garrett Schack Vista 18 250.382.9258

So there I was enjoying a beautiful fall afternoon stroll through a field when I came across a patch of shade that could not be resisted I made myself comfor table on the down like carpet of grass, leaned back, titled my hat and dozed off to an orchestra of song birds. Visions of Bach and Chopin were running through my head when suddenly I felt a sharp blow to my crown Terrified and groggy I looked straight up only to be struck again I took off running with the speed of an Olympiad shouting "the sky is falling, the sky is falling" Panic struck the nearby towns folk dar ted for shelter searching for a safe haven from the on slaught that was sure to come. It was at that moment that a true Spar tan fell from the sky and woke me up, at which point I took a crisp and juicy bite of the best apple I have ever tasted to this very day True story? I'll never tell Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545 Sitting by the lake, a long summer's day, Knowing nana's apple pie was soon on the way!

John Waller The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3100

I remember having a wonderful apple galette made by my love’s mum Diane It’s as simple as that with fresh whipped cream The conversation and drinks helped a bit too ‘hic’

Christabel Padmore The Little Piggy 250.386.1020 Enslaved in my mother's sweatshop I mean kitchen, I watched pots bubbling, as she instructed me in the use of peculiar looking equipment that normally would have only been seen in the depths of the basement (and assumed to be pioneer time tor ture devices) The process would go one for what seemed like forever, the windows steaming as we took what seemed like perfectly good apples and conver ted them into brown ooze that would then be packaged for long term storage I thought this an entirely bizarre thing to do, until a few weeks later home sick from school, she cracked a jar, sprin kled sugar and cinnamon on top then it all came together Smooth, cellar chilled apple sauce

Chris Ruge SeaGrille, Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa 250.544.2079

Honestly, you just don’t see enough local apples around They ALL seem to come from New Zealand these days Royal G alas are my favourite and I just cannot find any local ones. It’s de pressing and because of the lack of local apples, I’m just not eating as much of them anymore

Peter Heptonstall Restaurant Matisse 250 480 0883

Since I was raised in Liverpool, my most memorable apple moment was the Beatles’ White Album......

Ali Ryan Spinnakers 250.386.27 39

When I was a child growing up in Ottawa my father had a couple of mar velous apple trees in the backyard of my family’s home I am quite cer tain that as saplings they were Macs, how ever with years of splicing various different types of apples to their branches, the apples produced were well, mutts Not the most attractive apple in the world, but absolutely delicious and extremely hardy. By mid October our little gardening shed would be full of bushel baskets of these apples I don’t know if all Ottawa valley apples are extremely hardy, but by early Jan uary the apples would get this outrageous thick waxy shell on their skin When scrubbed off, the sweet & sour taste of these freezing apples was even more intense and delicious then when they were first picked A taste memory that will last for ever for me

Rob Wheaton Shelter Restaurant 250.725.2522

When I was a kid probably nine or ten, we had a crab apple tree in our backyard in Ontario. So every year we would pick the crab apples and make crab apple jelly with my mom and broth ers. Unfor tunately I have developed an allergy to apples, so I can't enjoy them anymore but I still remember what they taste like and love smelling them when we’re making our apple pie

OUT OF PROVINCE GUEST CHEF

Cl audio Aprile Colborne Lane, Toronto, Come to think of it, when I was a kid I went on a school trip to an apple orchard I ate enough apples to feed a small family and consequently overdosed and spent much of the day at the back of the bus puking my brains out. This was an early lesson in moderation