EAT Magazine 15-02 March|April 2011

It’s been a busy time in the E AT offices as we’ve been furiously counting votes for the 2nd Annual Exceptional Eats! Readers’ Choice Awards a mammoth under taking Why mammoth? Unlike most awards, where readers are forced to choose from a shor t list of predetermined favourites, EAT readers were free to vote for whomever they liked The result of all this unfettered choice? You were able to vote for the underdog and those businesses flying under the radar got a chance for recognition But there was a price to pay in the busy offices of EAT There is no computer program out there that will automatically tally these “freedom” votes, so our hard working staff broke out the dark roast and, pen and paper in hand, counted each and every single vote by hand. Whew! But we’re done and the list of all the winners can be found star ting on page 20 of this issue. Let me congratulate all the winners and thank the dozens of sponsors who provided the prizes for the draw

I’m also pleased to announce that the first ever E AT book, Island Wineries of British Columbia, has been published by Victoria’s own Touchwood Editions, and has hit the shelves of bookstores and retail shops around BC

Although I acted as point person and editorial director on the book, a team of E AT writers did the bulk of the writing and I’m sure you’ll agree they all deser ve a pat on the back for a job well done. As far as I know, this is the first book devoted solely to the wines of Vancouver Island and the Gulf islands.

The book is meant to appeal to anyone from the wine enthusiast or industry insider to anyone casually interested in what’s happening, wine wise, in our own backyard Want to tour the wine regions? We’ve provided a chapter (with maps) on that The history and beginnings of grape growing on the island? Done Detailed profiles of the top wineries? They’re all there We’ve even given you descriptions of the unique grape varieties being grown here

But what’s wine without food? I’ve included a chapter on pairing Island wines with local foods complete with kitchen tested recipes from local restaurants and chefs.

To round off this ode to local wine, we give a nod to the wine industry’s cousins craft beer, meads, ciders, fruit wines and distilled spirits.

I hope you get a chance to look this book over we hope you like it enough to buy it (shameless pitch) and that you will find the book interesting and useful a loving testament to a local industry that has come of age and values our suppor t

Cheers G ary Hynes, EAT editor

LOOK CLOSELY.

Can you tell we’re blushing with pride?

Well, we are rather pleased. Our sales were up over 50% for 2010! That made Speedway one of the fastest growing Audi stores in Canada. Thanks Victoria!

We’d like to think our success is a testament to our fabulous lineup of Audis and the knowledgeable, attentive service given by our Audi team. In fact, our customers gave us a satisfaction rating of 96% for 2010! Gosh — thanks again.

With stunning design, meticulous craftsmanship, and technical excellence, is it any wonder Audi is the fastest growing luxury brand in Victoria, Canada and beyond? See what the automotive press and our customers are raving about.

Come to Speedway and experience Audi today.

Foreground from left: Sales Associates Matt Kennard, Kelly Kerr, David Vollet and Tyson Johnson with Vice President & GM Carl Munro (left) and Sales Manager Greg Brady.

PHOTO BY GARY MCKINSTRY Creative courtesy of Boulevard

MarchWHISKY AT THE WICK

This two night vacation package is designed for whisky lovers to appreciate The Macallan in the beachfront setting of the Wickaninnish Inn J Wheelock, Cana dian Brand Ambassador for the centuries old Scottish distillery, will travel to the Inn to host an afternoon tasting of five premium Macallan whiskies. Later that evening, Chef Nick Nutting and the acclaimed kitchen brigade of The Pointe Restaurant will pre pare a four course Scottish themed dinner The highlight of the evening will be the un veiling of a unique and rare bottling from Wedlock’s personal collection for guests to enjoy as a special nightcap Mar 5 2011 (www wickinn com)

ALM WORKSHOPS

The ALM Organic Farm (Sooke, BC) is offer ing a great series of spring workshops: Salad Throughout the Seasons on Mar 19, an Edible/Medicinal Herb Walk on Mar 20, Grow Amazing Tomatoes on Mar 26, and Plant Propagation on Apr 16. Classes are $40 $55 per person. For complete class details and to register, visit www almfarms org

GENERATION CONFERENCE

TH E N E XT GE N E RATION is the theme of the Cer tified Organic Associations of BC annual conference, to be held at the Mary Winspear Centre in Sidney, B.C., Mar 4 6. The confer ence will offer a series of practical and in teractive workshops covering topics of interest to the general public as well as farmers and processors In addition to pro duction oriented topics such as “Livestock from field to plate” and "Innovative cover cropping and conser vation tillage sys tems", there will be sessions on issues such as creating a successful farm appren ticeship program, land ownership options, and energy efficiency on the farm. The workshop program and registration form are posted on COABC’s website at www cer tifiedorganic bc ca For more information, contact the Conference Coordinator: Lee Fuge (Email leefuge@pacificcoast net or Phone: 250 385 7974)

C ALIFORNIA WINE FAIR 2011

Now in its 31st year of touring across Canada, the 2011 California Wine Fair boasts 350 wines from 100 wineries throughout the Golden State. All under one roof, the range of wines includes products currently available in the market to new vin tages and varietals that have yet to be re leased in the Canadian market 600 guests sample wines, and bid on silent auction items including many of the hard to find wines featured at the tasting Mar 11 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre $65. (www.ar tsclub.com/events)

CULINAIRE

The second annual Culinaire event will pro vide Victorians the oppor tunity to savour signature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food pro ducers, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wines and craft beers. Pro ceeds benefit the annual scholarship pro gram at Camosun College’s Culinary Ar ts Program For full event details and a current list of who will be presenting visit www culinairevictoria com

SPRING CL A SSES AT TRIACULINARY

Two classes at Triaculinary (Comox Valley) include Let's Just Cook! on Mar 15, based on what Chef Kathy picks up at the market on the weekend Also offered is Lean and Light on Mar 22 Spring into summer one day after the spring equinox with a day of cook ing light and lean. In this class, you'll learn the techniques needed to create flavourful meals without all the fat.

(www.triaculinary.blogspot.com)

for a good cause

6TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE

On Mar 24, 70 restaurants from across Vancouver Island will donate $25 of their food bills to AI DS Vancouver Island Diners will have the oppor tunity to enter a prize draw to win a cruise from event sponsor Expedia Cruiseship Centres, and Stella Ar tois will also donate $1 from each of their beers sold in par ticipating restaurants

Visit www diningoutforlife com for a list of par ticipating restaurants

CERT IFIED ORG ANIC A SSOCIAT ION S OF BRIT ISH COLUMBIA (COABC): THE NE XT

Culinar y intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concier ge desk by Rebecca Baugniet For more events visit www eatmagazine ca

A Local Story.

SPRING BREAK TEEN C AMP

Spring break teen camp 2011 is all about in ternational cuisine Join us for a week of in ternationally inspired menus along with a local tour of the Granville Island Public Mar ket & Fishermen's Wharf and Dining Etiquette Workshop and Lunch in Bistro 101 (Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar ts' student operated restaurant) Includes all supplies and ingredients and Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar ts' logo apron Mar 21 25 $450 2011 VANCOUVER

PL AYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is one of the biggest and old est wine events in the world, offering some thing for every level of wine drinker, collector and trade professional Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive) from selected wineries and coun tries will be in attendance to pour and discuss their wines from Mar 28 Apr 3. (www.playhousewinefest.com)

E AT MAG A ZINE SPON SORED EVENT: WINE'S F WORD

F is for the fabulous and flexible flavours of for tified wines. This is an extremely versa tile and exclusive global family, including Por ts, Sherries, and Madeiras, as well as the captivating sweet wines from the south of France DJ Kearney, Chef, Wine Consult ant and Journalist, leads this romp through wine’s F words, joined by the now leg endary panel of chefs: Julian Bond, Execu tive Chef, Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar ts; Tony Lawrence, Philadelphia’s A Chef For You; Blair Rasmussen, Executive Chef, Van couver Convention Centre; and Dino Re naer ts, Executive Chef and Owner, Fraîche You may find yourself using the F word in a whole new way! Apr 2 (www playhousewinefest com)

BAT TLE OF THE AGES

Taste cheeses from the freshest creamiest chevre, to crunchy, salty, aged, raw milk cheddar Pair these & 6 more ar tisan cheeses with a compliment of Matt Phillip's craft brews including a ver tical of Phillips Barley Wine and some of their brand new 2011 beers. If you think wine & cheese tast ing is a revelation & a good time, beer & cheese pairing will open up a whole new world of taste & good times Finish the night with a antipasto selection of cured meats & accompaniments from Ottavio Thursday March 31st from 7 9pm Tickets available at Phillips Brewing 2210 Govern ment St. & Ottavio Italian Bakery 2272 Oak Bay Ave. $40/person

April

FRENCH WINE SCHOL AR COURSE

Take your passion for French wines to a new level with an in depth 8 week course that explores the history and terroir of French

g in inng in Specializ

»Residential & Commercial interiors

cial interiors esidential Commer R

»Space planning

»Colour consultation

»Custom kitchen design

Specializing in Spice up your kitchen colour!

Tel: 250-388-6167 Fax: 250-388-6069

wine regions. Students will have the opportunity to taste many unique wines not currently available on the island and the option to write a final exam to become a cer tified French Wine Scholar. This class is ideal for anyone currently pursuing Sommelier or WS ET Diploma designations

Classes run Tuesdays from, excluding Easter and Victoria Day and are held at the Coast Hotel (call/email Mark Shipway mshipway@aii.edu or www.winecollege.ca, www.frenchwinesociety.org or 1 800 667 7288 to register)

K AMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL

The Kamloops Wine Festival (Apr 7 15) has grown into a spectacular multi faceted celebration of wine. Throughout the festival there will be wine information seminars, such as wine pairings and best value wines, and local restaurants create special menus to complement B C wines The festival culminates with the signature event, the Consumer Tasting, on Apr 15 at the Kam loops Convention Centre, which features samplings of the best B.C. wines, a special selection of international wines, fine food, cooking demonstrations and enter tain ment. (www.kag.bc.ca)

NK'MIP RESORT WINE CRAWL

Sip and sample your way through Nk'Mip Resor t. Nk'Mip Cellars will pair their finest award winning wines with an exquisite selection of freshly prepared local cuisine at different stations throughout the Resor t Apr 30 www nkmipcellars com

WILD FOOD EXPERIENCE

On Apr 30, join renowned chef, author and mycologist Bill Jones as he leads you on a unique wild food experience Forage food display, show and tell, guided forage and a delicious meal to top it all off $125/person (plus Tax) Contact and reser vation Info: Bill Jones 250 748 7450 to book or for fur ther information. bill@magnor th.bc.ca

epicur e at large

by Jeremy Ferguson

A TALE OF FOUR SKINS

Crispy, crackly, rich and flavourful the lowly skin of a beast can be a wondrous delicacy.

Last Christmas dinner was prepared by my brother in law Ian Clemens, a banker and a chef of surprising enterprise and stamina He began with torchon of foie gras, bolstering the sentiment that the fatted duck liver is the cocaine of cuisine He followed with turkey I don’t much like turkey: my sensitive ears curl up at the flatulence that rocks Canadian homes with seismic fury on December 25.

But this was an Island turkey roasted with considerable affection, and a good one as turkeys go My chunk of bird arrived in a mantle of skin, golden brown, as crisp as a potato chip, and mighty tasty I tore into it with a crrrunch that turned heads at the table Then I returned the rest to the ser ving platter and begged for more skin

A few years ago, my wife and I spent a few days at Les Prés d’ Eugénie, the spa and restaurant complex owned by chef Michel Guerard, two hours south of Bordeaux. Guerard is the chef who created Lean Cuisine and is appalled by what the American food industry has done with it. Les Prés d’ Eugénie, a Rélais & Chateaux proper ty, covers 16 hectares It’s a theme park dedicated to sybaritism and set among lawns and palms and jaunty nymphs

Peking Duck

Guerard operates four restaurants The main building, dating to 1862 and used as a Nazi headquar ters during the Second World War, houses the main restaurant, where a brigade of 25 chefs toils in two separate kitchens But we liked his Ferme Aux Grives, his “country” restaurant, better. We arrived to find a suckling pig turning golden brown on a spit in the massive stone fireplace. The skin of this fantastical suckling pig was ser ved in planks. How could the skin of a pig emerge so wondrous a delicacy?

Tojo’s, Vancouver’s famous Japanese restaurant, does a fabulous business in B.C. rolls. The secret of the B.C. roll is salmon skin crisped on the barbecue grill. This is a prime use of a west coast resource: B C is not exactly shor t of salmon skin

Exper tly scaled and with just enough fat for a crisp and soft consistency, salmon skin stands alone I grill salmon fillets over charcoal, and as it cooks, pull the skin away well before it turns into a chip The skin can be a tad acidic, but that’s the fatty omega 3 acids that are so good for us And did you know salmon skin’s good for the dog? The oils, apparently, improve a pooch’s complexion.

The ritual of Peking duck ranks as one of the great, ancient, classical dishes of Middle Kingdom cooking. Nobody knows how to roast a duck like the Chinese, who have for centuries understood the harmony of fire, fat and flesh.

In Hong Kong’s New Territories the buffer zone between the city and the People’s Republic at Shatin 18, the restaurant in the Hyatt Sha Tin hotel, duck rules the roast Chef Nelson Zou’s Peking duck is the best I’ve ever encountered, a five course procession in which the bird’s skin is honoured as best bite Such a skin so crisp, so crackling, so fragrant, so flavourful Little wonder the restaurant goes through 30 ducks a day

My wife opts for a French treatment She buys Brome Lake duck breasts at Thrifty’s She brines them in a solution of kosher salt, brown sugar and rosemary. She places them skin side down in a medium hot pan until the fat is rendered and the heavenly skin turns crisp. Then she finishes them in the oven until the flesh is melting and pink under that crust of skin. Of all the skins of all the birds in all the world, duck is the champ.

I’m for skin, but not in every case: I ate an armadillo in Guatemala once; its skin was like breaking into a Brinks truck There was zebra skin in Tanzania; I feared the stripes would get in my food traps Yubiki is a salad made from cold, blotched fugu (pufferfish) skin ser ved in Japan, and I wasn’t crazy about that, either

And, oh yes, that guinea pig I ate in the Peruvian Andes in a traditional Inca dish called cuy? The skin had the consistency of an old canvas suitcase

BC Cult Winer y at the Marina Restaurant

April 14, 6:00pm join John Skinner of Painted Rock Winery at The Marina Restaurant for a five course paired dinner, 250 598 8555 for reser vations ($95 inclusive of tax & gratuity, limited seats) For more on Painted Rock: www paintedrock ca/

chefs talk

"What do

compiled by Ceara Lornie

The Ask

eat for breakfast and where do you like to go”

Sheena Hogan Haro’s Restaurant (The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa), 250 655 9700

"I always look to my own back yard in Sidney. I can never go wrong with the Beacon & Eggs Meat Lover's Scramble ser ved with local sausage, crispy home fries & hollandaise. It makes for a great star t to the day!"

David Mincey Camille's Restaurant, 250.381.3433

Paige and I like to go to the Sunnyside Cafe on Esquimalt Road. A tiny little place with no kitchen to speak of. Fantastic breakfasts all cooked in front of you on a series of hot plates! Friendly staff, outdoor patio, ridiculously fast ser vice, just a shor t walk from our house and the food is amazing What more could you want?

Jena Stewart Devour Food, 250.590.3231

Growing up with the WA SP family roots my favourite will always be porridge. Yup, I love it. It keeps me going in the kitchen for hours at a time. I am picky about porridge, so I never order it out just mine No brown sugar, good maple syrup, apples and pecans or what ever we have on hand I wake up looking forward to it

Genevieve Lapl ante Sips Ar tisan Bistro, 250.590.3519

I love breakfast! A good friend of mine recently taught me how to make Venezuelan style arepas and I'm in love with them. Arepas are little pockets made from corn flour, fried, baked and then can be filled I love them with scrambled eggs, avocado and smoked chili sauce They warm your hands as you eat them They're super easy to make and if anyone wants to know how, let me know!

Anna Hunt Paprika Bistro, 250.592.7424

I am terrible: I very rarely remember to eat breakfast, but I do enjoy a breakfast sandwich from Relish when downtown in the morning

Peter De Bruyn Sticky Wicket Pub and Restaurant, 250.383.7137

Lady Marmalade is a great place for breakfast The cinnamon bun French toast was truly spectacular, decadent and over the top. Going out to eat needs to tantalize the senses and not just simply fill the stomach.

Matthew Rissling The Marina Restaurant, 250.598.8555

The breakfast sandwich at Demitasse on Broad St is killer (fried eggs and mayo are always good together) and of course the Marble Arch on Tillicum Road is my go to Chinese/Cana dian greasy spoon. I tend to go for pretty simple fare eggs over easy, buttered toast, ham or bacon and coffee.

Garrett Schack Vista 18, 250.382.9258

Breakfast is my favourite par t of the day It’s about the only meal I eat sitting down! At home it’s usually some sor t of cold breakfast cereal, or sometimes some scrambled eggs and toast, but most impor tantly a strong cup of black coffee! When I go out its always the Blue Fox! Large hand cut hash browns, perfectly cooked bacon and over easy eggs! Great breakfast and great ser vice thanks Ros!

Laurie Munn Cafe Brio, 250.383.0009

I usually don't go anywhere for breakfast because I spend the mornings with my daughter Sadie. Although you can't beat a Sausage McMuffin with egg and hash browns from McDonalds. At home I usually have a pot of coffee and a bowl of fruit with yogur t, and Sadie is fond of ‘bucket’ eggs (hardboiled) and fishy crackers (cheddar goldfish) Weekends are usually pancakes as they are Sadie’s favorite Christabel Padmore Chuleta by the Little Piggy, 250.483.4171

I get pretty testy when asked to queue first thing in the morning, so for the most par t my husband and I take turns making breakfast at home. I usually make huevos rancheros and he makes a British fry up That said, when we’re in the mood to go out, we go for dim sum, usually at Don Mee’s or the Jade Fountain Dim sum is also a fun choice for Little Piggy staff par ties.

Lisa Ahier Sobo, 250.725.2341

Farmer Ben’s eggs fried with chopped onions and chilies at my stove before I get hit with lunch tickets

Brock Windsor Stone Soup Inn, 250 749 3848

I go to Saison Baker y most sundays for awesome pastries, breads and breakfast goodies. It has only been open less that two years but is a definite Vancouver Island foodie stop. It's a vineyard as well!

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro, 250.383.1545

I usually eat breakfast at work, on my feet I’ll eat a Breakfast Buddy (McMuffin style break fast sandwich) or some granola/yogur t/fruit combo. I like places that are inconspicuous but scrumptious like Dish Cookhouse and Diner or Paul's Motor Inn. However, cooking up a feast at home for my special lady is my favourite

fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service

Come in to Haro’s at The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa every Saturday and Sunday beginning at 11 for Chef Sheena’s favorite new brunch creations. The menu includes everything from traditional Eggs Benny to "Haro's Rancheros", plus all of our regular all day menu items. A great day begins at Haro’s.

Make your reservation now!

Call 250.655.9700

Brunch served from 11am - 2pm every Saturday & Sunday

Complimentary Underground Parking • www.sidneypier.com

brunch isn’t dead, it just slept in

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Lemon juice, baking soda and vinegar are just some of the natural products used in multiple recipes you’ll find in The Clean Green Cookbook. Find the latest edition online at www.sustainableu.ca Share the recipes and submit your own on the Sustainable U Facebook page.

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WILD THINGS

Think twice before relegating your dandelions to the compost heap.

What could be more seasonal and local than dandelions? Their jagged edged leaves, flower buds, fuzzy yellow flowers and roots offer unique culinary possibilities. Although some people curse their tenacious proliferation, dandelions are valuable food plants with numerous medicinal properties Those who consider them a nuisance may be surprised that this perennial herb is widely cultivated. The greens have become so popular they are available in local farmer’s markets And while the fluffy white parachute shaped seeds that form a dandelion’s puffball head aren’t edible, they are useful for creating new plants and making wishes.

Dandelion roots should be har vested in the summer or fall when their bitterness peaks They can be eaten as a cooked vegetable Or roast and grind the roots to make a caffeine free coffee substitute that tastes similar to chicory coffee. Brew the root grounds on their own, combine them with chicory, brew them with cof fee or add dandelion root coffee to hot chocolate

In the early spring, try tender new dandelion buds, the sweetest par ts of the plant. They can be used as a garnish or added to salads and soups. The golden flowers should be har vested when they are fully opened. Make your morning scrambled eggs sunnier by adding buds and flowers For dandelion flower frit ters, dip flowers in a batter made of 1 beaten egg, 1 cup milk and 1 cup flour, sea soned with salt and pepper Drop battered blossoms into hot cooking oil in a deep fryer and fry until lightly browned; drain on paper towels. To make dande lion blossom syrup, boil 4 cups dandelion flowers in 4 cups of water. Cool and steep overnight Press liquid from the flowers and reser ve Add a chopped un peeled orange and 4 cups of sugar to the liquid Simmer several hours until the mixture is reduced to the consistency of honey Use the syrup in baklava, on pancakes or in any recipe that calls for syrup.

Dandelion wine is made with dandelion flowers, honey, water, yeast, oranges and/or lemons, ginger or cinnamon Raspberries, strawberries or golden raisins are alternative additions

Tender young dandelion greens, har vested in early spring before the plants flower, are deliciously bitter (think chicory or escarole) Use them raw in salads with lamb’s lettuce, watercress, endive or with sweeter salad greens Their bit terness marries well with bacon or chorizo, sautéed shallots and garlic in a salad drizzled with walnut oil balsamic vinaigrette. Older greens, har vested after the plant has flowered, should be blanched to remove their bitterness before using them in cooking. Dump the bitter water, and blanch them a second time. Sauté or steam the greens and use them in any recipe that calls for leafy greens Try cooked greens in vegetable ravioli or lasagna, in a warm salad with seared scal lops, sautéed shallots and roast potatoes, or with sautéed squid and chilies. The nutritious leaves are high in the antioxidant vitamins A, E and C. They are a good source of B complex vitamins and are high in magnesium, iron and copper Dent de lion (lion’s tooth) is the French word for dandelion Its alternate French name, pissenlit, meaning “wet the bed,” and its vulgar English name “piss a bed,” refer to its diuretic proper ties. Crème de pissenlits (cream of dandelion soup) is a traditional French recipe. Trim, wash and blanch 6 cups dandelion greens in a pot of boiling salted water Drain thoroughly Chop greens and set aside Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large pot over medium high heat Add greens, the cleaned, sliced white par ts of 2 large leeks, 6 cloves of garlic minced and 1 diced carrot and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes. Add 4 cups vegetable stock and simmer 15 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Whisk in 2 1/2 cups milk or 2 cups half and half cream and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly thick ened Puree the cooled mixture in a food processor until smooth Season with salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Ser ve garnished with flower petals and buds and float a few dandelion flower fritters on each bowl of creamy green soup.

Tea Artistry

Silk Road Teas are created and blended in Victoria. Tea can be rich and pungent or delicate and subtle. The Silk Road art of tea blending ensures that the character of the plant retains its essential harmony and is enhanced by the ingredients with which it is paired. Select botanicals from around the world, as well as the West Coast, are carefully cured and prepared to yield a superb tea experience.

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

food matters

by Julie Pegg

RISOTTO LENTO

Cooked with patience and attention, risotto delivers.

My initial experience with risotto in a backstreet osteria in Venice didn’t look promising. I had serious misgivings about the grainy grey puddle topped with a green/black blob of what? And what was I supposed to eat it with? Spoon? Fork?

Finally I dug in My doubts were needless I was bowled over by both texture and flavour Rice, firm yet creamy, melded seamlessly with the delicate broth, red wine (to which, I presumed, the risotto owed its murky appearance) and aged Parmigiano The blob was ear thy, barely wilted spinach The silky, nutty dish was delicious

Once I returned home, I ordered the dish again It looked nice but tasted like tomato laden glue Then again, that was more than a dozen years ago and cer tainly not Venice

Risotto, which did finally make its way across the pond, is easy enough to make, although it can be tricky to master When you’ve nailed it once, however, making all manner of risotti is as easy as AVC (Arborio, Vialone Nano, Carnaroli)

It’s much ado about the rice, you see Risotto owes its roots to the more nor therly regions of Italy, where rice outgrows wheat, mainly in the Po Valley Shor t grain rice, due to its high starch content, allows for a suitable absorption of liquid The ideal rices are Arborio, Vialone Nano and Carnaroli Workhorse Arborio “superfine” is the most economical but cannot withstand overcooking Expensive Vialone Nano turns out a superb risotto but can be a little temperamental in the pan There fore, some measure of finesse is necessary Carnaroli (my favourite) balances the two It costs a bit more that Arborio, is more forgiving than Vialone Nano, and delivers perfect creaminess while the grains remain al dente

No matter which of the three you choose, with a little practice and patience your risotto will result in a sublime marriage of starch and broth

Basic risotto, like pasta, cozies up to a number of vegetables par ticularly wild mush rooms, but squash and fennel are also popular, and here and there fish or meat I find tomato is best left to the noodle The broth may be beef, chicken, fish (for seafood risotto) or vegetable (Venetian Risi Bisi a soupy mixture of rice and peas relies on the water used to boil the peas ) As the days turn warmer, risotti made with tender asparagus, petits pois or tender spinach are superb Slivers of fried pancetta make a nice addition Although Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is de rigueur in risotto, I find grating a milder cheese such as fontina or asiago into the mixture gives spring risotto a lift Crumbled sheep feta, along with a splash of fresh lemon juice into pea or asparagus risotto, is a splendid alternative to Italian cheeses

I like to make risotto at home, rather than order it in a restaurant For one thing, few chefs (note I did not say all) can afford the 25 minutes of TLC that risotto requires I find it far more pleasant to spend that time (and far less money) sautéing vegetables, toasting rice, going with the rhythm of adding and stirring broth, gauging the risotto’s progress, sipping on a glass of wine as aromas waft about the kitchen maybe nibbling a couple of olives, perhaps chatting with a guest or my husband, who has offered kindly to toss the salad Putting together risotto is very soothing and social that way

Variations on the theme of preparing risotto are many The following tips have, for me, worked very well The rice pretty much does all the work to deliver a full bodied, creamy, al dente risotto

I use olive oil, forgoing butter Shallots or leeks deliver a less strident note than onion and/or garlic in spring and summer risottos I splash a bit of room temperature wine at the beginning and add the remaining wine the recipe calls for along with the final ladle of broth Finally, I blend in the cheese and never finish the dish with cream Salt, pepper and fresh herbs (if using) are added at the end A good quality purchased broth, diluted with a cup or so of water, is best unless homemade stock is completely free of “bits ”

Often thought of as a side dish (par ticularly for osso bucco) or first course, a fine risotto, cooked slow and low, needs no other actors Allow it to be the star of the stage

Wild spring salmon with piperrada and roasted potatoes; scallops baked with Serrano ham, creamed leeks and truffle oil.

Cold smoked albacore tuna with preser ved lemon, marcona almonds, green olives and arbequina olive oil.

It’s Sunday You want something Maybe you’re not quite done with the weekend Or maybe Sunday is your Friday and you’re just star ting your weekly break. You want to go out, enjoy great food and a drink, perhaps find something new, exciting even. But on a Sunday? Victoria’s culinary options are limited on the seventh day. But there is somewhere you can go, somewhere easy, welcoming and tasty.

Bienvenidos Seville Sundays at Ferris’ Upstairs Oyster Bar.

Spanish guitar strumming in the background, I’m curled into a black sofa The warm light ing, aged exposed brick and high ceilings set the tone for at least a couple of hours spent wrapping my lips around more than a few of the 28 tapas selections, a glass of wine or a sherry perhaps This handsome room is easily one of the most welcoming and “stay a while” venues in Victoria

We star ted with the banderillas of cippolini onions with Pedro Ximénez syrup, then moved on to dried apricot and manchego cheese, salt cod brandada with sherry vinegar and Arbequina olive oil, and scallops baked with Serrano ham, creamed leeks and truffle oil.

The brandada was delectable and delicate and served with crostini. We opted for the spoon instead of the toasts The tepid, gentle, lush cod dip revealed itself better without the dry crunch in the way The banderillas were pretty to look at, but to get the best bite, you needed to cut a piece of each ingredient off the skewer, so it turned out to be more fiddly and pedes trian than hoped The scallops, plump and firm and nestled in the rich leeks, won this round

When you hear “Caf fe Fantastico” what do you think? Ar tisan roas t ed cof f ee or funky & eclectic cof f ee shops? Maybe you think of sitting outside sipping the per fect Americano at t he Cook St Village location on a warm summers day But how about a pincha of beer, or perhaps chocolate mousse and a glass of red wine? Well it seems t hat Caf f e Fant as tico has s t epped up t heir g ame once ag ain and are of f er ing a slice of European culture at t heir newes t location at t he Parkside Resor t

Christy and Ryan Taylor have continued in t he vein

The truffle oil was as understated as it can be, and scrumptious The Serrano ham, presented like a bright comb in a flamenco dancer’s hair, was crisp and salty.

Then we reclined with our wine. No need to talk. I love this room. Again, the Spanish guitar clacks its beauty. Why isn’t this place packed on Sundays? ¿Por qué? This shouldn’t be a well kept secret. It should be a bit of solid, fast flying, satisfying gossip.

And so, what’s next? The papas bravas with spicy tomato sauce and smoked paprika aioli. Oven roasted wild prawns with smoked paprika, potatoes, chorizo and olive oil Fanny Bay oysters baked with espelette chili and lemon Beef shor t ribs braised with mushrooms, pancetta, fresh sage, brandy and cream Did I mention they don’t have a kitchen up there? Just a few burners? I will sit at the bar and watch next time

The papas were delicious, but not as fine as that smoked paprika aioli I could swim in that. The wild prawns were enormous and juicy, and when eaten with the chorizo oh my. We skipped the potatoes they came with. The baked oysters were good, but quite lemony. The beef shor t ribs were deep and winter comfor t food yummy, but that was not what I was in the mood for. Not in Seville. I wanted more fish and seafood and cheese and wine and music. The space itself invites and incites you to stay and wait until you are hungry again to try more That is rare in Victoria Take yourself to Seville Just for a Sunday Gillie Easdon

A slice of European coffee house culture at Tre Fantastico

Pictured: The Charcuterie Board.

bistro inspired

Dishes like

Red

with grainy Dijon, a charcuterie board and fresh pastas are just some of the tasty bites coming out of the kitchen This is t he kind of food that pairs per fectly with wine and beer We’ve seen t he “small plates” concept become ver y popular lately but where can you get a small charcuterie board and a glass of red for $10? Or pincha of Drif twood Ale (6 oz glass) & house made pretzel for $3? The idea behind Caf fe Fantastico’s new café concept, Tre Fantas tico, was to do exactly t his Of fer a beautiful space, great small bites and a selection of beers & wine at reasonable prices With cof fee also being a ver y prominent feature this ties into the “Tre” concept of focusing on three drinks Whatever draws you into Tre Fantastico I t hink you’ll discover t hat you ’ ve found your new favourite café Peter Bagi

Douglas at Fisgard houses an enticing row of Asian restaurant: one Korean, one Thai and one Vietnamese. The nor thernmost is Sura Korean Restaurant and its best bargain, among several good options, is the bibimbob. I am thrilled by this find. Bibimbob is a rice bowl topped with, in one version, thinly sliced beef, shiitake mushroom, glass noodles, and shredded cabbage, carrots and lettuce, crowned with a glistening fried egg This is an inherently flavourful mix of ingredients, but Koreans then add a sauce sesame sauce or hot sauce and toss it all together What’s impor tant about bibimbob is not just the contents, but the bowl it’s in If you order the “dol sot” category of bibimbob, you get a dark stone bowl so hot the rice crackles and the food is still hot half an hour later. An added charm here is the traditional side dishes included in the price: the famous Korean marinated cabbage called kim chi, touted as a cancer fighter; spinach in ponzu sauce, a delicate mix of soy and sesame; bean sprouts lightly salted with sea salt and tossed with sesame oil; and potatoes slow cooked in a sweetened soy mixture. Brace yourself: they bring refills of the side dishes and all lunch menu dishes are under $11 The menu also includes a vegetarian bibimbob For a leisurely dinner, the barbecue Cont’d on the next page

combinations for two to five people look intriguing They work out to $20 or under per person and include a broad variety of dishes, such as dumplings, soup, salad, lemon chicken, tempura and seafood pancake. And that’s before the meat even comes. For this kind of meal, you are smar t to reser ve so you can get a special table designed for barbecuing.

Sod-Sai Thai | 1692 Douglas St. at Fisgard | 250.388.9517

Next

sweeter curry with no coconut milk The basil rice, with cauliflower, cabbage, red pepper, broccoli, and onion, is perfect for those craving their veggies I learned during my visit that pad thai is not the first go to dish for Thai people curry and rice are. Apparently it’s West erners who drive the demand for pad thai, and I am among them. This one, while sweet for my palate, was enticing to my young daughter. Same with the spring roll. I found it bland; my daughter wanted more. A highlight of the meal for me was my first foray into Thai iced tea. Roasted tea is blended with condensed milk, creating a deep russet coloured bever age Be adventurous here after all, it’s only $2 50 The atmosphere is cheap and cheer ful, with lovely fabric on the tables and intricate mirrors in the back room

Green Leaf Bistro, 16 84 Douglas St. at Fisgard, 250. 590.8302

A week after eating here, I am still dreaming of the vermicelli with stir fried lemongrass chicken. The chicken is redolent with lemongrass, used not as an accent but as an asser tive seasoning The dish comes with a rice vinegar sauce, which I was hesitant to use until I re alized it wasn’t going to drown out the fragrant lemongrass Another stand alone dish wor th trying is the Vietnamese savoury crêpe on the appetizer menu I was expecting a dainty French style pancake and what I got was a massive, 12 inch crêpe fried golden brown and stuffed fat with bean sprouts, shredded pork and a few shrimp Pho, the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup, was fine but not a standout like the lemongrass chicken. What did stand out was the fact that for $4 they do a children’s pho. Thank you, Green Leaf Bistro, for your consideration (I can hardly spoon noodles into my own mouth let alone get them into a small bowl for my child). The real showstopper for me was the Family Dinner, a pro saic name for something very special indeed. A waft of cilantro preceded the arrival of the tamarind based hot and sour soup, the dinner’s first course Next came a caramelized filet of sea bass in a hot clay pot at $20 95 It was black and sticky, sprinkled with pepper, and came with a choice of noodles or rice My enjoyment was marred only by the ensuing com petition between me and my husband over who would get the most Despite the low prices (most items on the dinner menu are under $10), the food presentation is lovely Get here soon.

BOOK SIGNING & WINE TA STING

Join us at Cascadia Liquor Stores for an Island Wineries of British Columbia book signing and a tasting of local wine.

Saturday, March 5, 2-4pm at Cascadia Quadra Village, #4 2631 Quadra Street, Victoria, (250) 590 1940 Saturday, March 19, 2-4pm at Cascadia Colwood, Hatley Park Plaza 2244 Sooke Road, Victoria, (250) 478 1303

(l) Fresh salad roll with pork and shrimp. (r) Family dinner: hot and sour soup with shrimp, veg and tamarind flavored broth; fillet sea bass marinated, cooked in clay pot with rice noodles.

Melanie Lonsdale, Monica Pozzolo, Andrew Moyer, Maylia Janzen, Emilie Day, Sarah MacDonald, Piper Phillips, Riley Coxford, Christine Mulhall, Shinji Nagata, Derek Laframboise, Denise Jones, Natalie Peacock, Drew Pollhammer

You voted for your favourites the best places to eat, dine, and shop for food and wine on Vancouver Island and here are your results to all thir ty two questions.

Taken together, they make a delicious snapshot of a moment in our culinary times. There are no losers; we all win by shining the spotlight on a robust and healthy food scene on the Island. Our neighbours can only drool with envy. Not only do we get the mildest climate in the country but we also have some of the best food products around for our chefs, vintners and brewers to create with.

In looking over the tally of votes it’s immediately clear that ours is a not food scene controlled by big corporate enterprise with profits sent to head offices

let ’ s eat in

Spe cialty Food Shop or Deli

Ottavio Italian Baker y & Delicatessen (GOLD)

Charelli’s Cheese Shop and Delicatessen (SILVER)

Blair Mar t (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• The Market on Yates & Millstream

• Mediterranean Speciality Foods (Lakehill Grocery)

• Italian Food Impor t

You are totally transfixed by the wall of olive oil selections. What store are you in?

• Plenty Epicurean Pantry

Ottavio Italian Baker y and Delicatessen (2278 Oak Bay Ave ) has been providing the city with specialty items since 1997, now offering more than 200 ar tisanal cheeses, unique cured meats (including their famous house cured prosciutto), tasty prêt à manger options in the freezer, and impor ted goods Their licensed café and terrazzo is always bustling; their annual events, such as the Big Cheese Cut (April), Festa Italiana (June) and Oktoberfest (September) enter tain and educate, while their active par ticipation in local projects such as the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society and the ICC’s Local Food Fest bolster the food community. Charelli’s Cheese Shop and Delicatessen (2851 Foul Bay Rd.) opened in 2003 and has been inser ting a little slice of Old Europe into Victoria ever since Known almost as well for the friendly and helpful ser vice as for their excellent cheese and deli selections, this is also a popular spot for lunchtime sandwiches and prepared cheese platters Charelli’s offers cater ing, gift packaging and other culinary ser vices as well as culinary exploration and education in their C One Tasting Room Blair Mar t (924 Pandora Ave ) is Victoria’s undisputed down town destination for Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and even some South Asian foods. With housemade samosas, baba ganoush, hummus, etc. this specialty grocery store satisfies a lot of cravings, and rivals a overseas market with its enticing displays.

Local Food Product

wild salmon (GOLD) local cheeses (SILVER) ar tisan bread (BRONZE)

A dear friend is in the area for the first time What local food or local ingredient from our Islands do you have on hand to tempt them

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• local farm produce

• charcuterie / sausages

• blackberries

• oysters

• craft beer

Be st Take-Out/Deliver y

Pizzeria Prima Strada (GOLD) Foo (SILVER)

Little Thai Place (BRONZE)

You plan to eat in and stop to pick up (or have delivered) a prepared meal Who gets your hard earned cash tonight?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Noodle Box

• Baan Thai

• Fujiya's Japanese Foods

• Cooks Day Off

Local Farm Produce

Moss Street Market (GOLD) Root Cellar (SILVER) Red Barn Market (BRONZE)

On Saturdays, you like to drive to the farm stand Which one has your loyalty and respect?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Sun Wing Greenhouse

• Madrona Farm

• Michell Brothers Farm

• Dan's Farm

Butcher Shop

Slater's First Class (GOLD) The Village Butcher (SILVER) Island Meat (BRONZE)

Artisan butchers are in a renaissance period Where do you go for that unique cut of rare breeds pork or the finest quality charcuterie?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Choux Choux Charcuterie

• Glenwood Meats

• Ronald Orr & Son Family Butcher

• Quadra Village Halal Butcher Shop

in far away places, but, like peas in a spring risotto, it’s a food scene where small, independent, local businesses dot our communities and neighbourhoods, satisfying our appetite for eating and drinking local.

We’ve organized the results into four groups: eating in, eating out, drinking and finally, giving credit to those who inspire us. You’ll find some of the questions are different this time around because isn’t this year different from the last?

These are our food and drink heroes. Thank them, suppor t them, and enjoy them indeed, we are all very lucky to live on this island

Prepared G ary Hynes with assistance from Gillie Easdon and the EAT contributors

Grocer y Store SMALL

The Root Cellar (GOLD)

Red Barn Market (SILVER) Niagara Grocer y (BRONZE)

L ARGE Market on Yates/Millstream (GOLD) Thrifty Foods (SILVER)

You’re not a fan of big box shopping Pick a store that deserves merit

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Plenty Epicurean Pantry

• Ambrosio Markets

• Peppers Foods

• Fairway Market

let ’ s eat out

Re staurant of the Year

Brasserie L’ecole (GOLD) Zambri’s (SILVER) Cafe Brio (BRONZE)

Consistently excellent food, fantastic service, welcoming and wonderful ambience. What restaurant can you always say that about?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Markus’ Wharfside

• Stage

• Bistro 28

• Ulla

• Camille’s

• The Superior

Place for Lunch

Relish Food and Coffee (GOLD) Hernande'z Cocina (SILVER) Pig (BRONZE)

Pleasure for the taste buds, easy on the wallet, where are you going for lunch these days?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Zambri’s

• Pagliacci's

• Foo

• Pizzeria Prima Strada

• EdGe

Re staurant Cooking Local

Cafe Brio (GOLD)

Markus' Wharfside (SILVER) Devour (BRONZE)

You go to this restaurant because they cook with local seasonal ingredients very very well Which one is it?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Brasserie L’ecole

• Zambri’s

• Rebar

• Spinnaker’s

• Stage Wine Bar

• Bistro 28

Place for Solo Dining

Pig (GOLD)

Stage Wine Bar (SILVER) Hernande'z Cocina (BRONZE)

Table for one? Stool at the bar? What restaurant do you go to when dining alone?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Brasserie L’ecole

• Foo

• Relish

• Zambri’s

• Pizzeria Prima Strada

Neighbourhood Re sto

Stage Wine Bar (GOLD)

Pizzeria Prima Strada (SILVER) 5th Street Bar and Grill (BRONZE)

What is your favourite restau rant that's within walking distance in your own neighbourhood?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Fernwood Inn

• Heron Rock Bistro

• Spinnakers

• Bistro 28

Place to Feed a Kid

Pizzeria Prima Strada (GOLD) White Spot (SILVER) Crumsby's Cupcake Café (BRONZE)

You have kids You want to eat out with them because this should be a beautiful thing What restaurant “ gets ” it?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• 5th Street Bar and Grill

• Ferris' Oyster Bar & Grill

• Pagliacci's

Re staurant De sser t

Goat cheese cake with preser ved sour cherries, fennel biscotti Stage Wine Bar (GOLD)

Chocolate truffles Cafe Brio (SILVER)

Crème brûlée Brasserie L’ecole (BRONZE)

Sweet! Tell us at which restaurant you had an ending to a meal that rocked your socks And what was the dessert?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Chocolate cake, rice crispy crunch, hazelnut cream and brittle Ulla

• Maple tar t, pecan crust, whipped cream Bistro 28

• Warm ginger cake The Marina

The best bite of the year. What restaurant dish made such a lasting impression that you wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to your B F F ? Name the dish and the restaurant, please

Be st Plate of the Year

Steak Frites, red wine & shallot sauce, Roquefor t butter Brasserie l'école (GOLD)

Spaghetti aglio olio peperoncino - Zambri’s (SILVER)

Preser ved lemon risotto, pan seared West Coast scallop Stage Wine Bar (BRONZE)

HONORABLY MENTIONS

Crispy chicken roll, Israeli couscous, carrots, bacon, chanterelles, chicken jus Ulla

Local mussels, caramelized onion & fennel, maple chipotle cream sauce Bistro 28 Brio Family Meal Cafe Brio

Margherita pizza, Fairburn Farms mozzarella di bufula, fresh basil Pizzeria Prima Strada

Dish Under $10

Tacos de Pollo - Hernande'z Cocina (GOLD)

Pulled Pork Sandwich Pig (SILVER)

Be st Mobile Eater y

Puer to Vallar ta Amigos (GOLD)

La Taquisa (SILVER)

Mr Tube Steak (BRONZE)

Be st Wine Store PRIVATE

Ever ything Wine (GOLD)

Cascadia Liquor (SILVER)

Spinnakers Spirit Merchants (BRONZE) GOVERNMENT

For t & Foul Bay (GOLD)

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Hillside Liquor

• Cook St Village Liquor

• The Wine Barrel

What shop has the most comprehensive wine selection and has the most knowledgeable staff and best customer ser vice?

• Vintage Spirits

• Victoria Westshore

• Blanshard Square

Ever ything Wine With a name like that, it’s hard to miss. True to form, this wine warehouse has access to thousands of bottles (some of which are exclusive to the chain in BC), plus wine accessories, a staffed tasting bar, and full roster of tastings and events many of which are free A temperature controlled vintages room for finer bottles, and staff members with ad vanced wine education push this to the top Plus you can view the entire inventory online, and make purchases for delivery or pick up www everythingwine ca Cascadia Liquor Even losing a store with the Uptown redevelopment hasn’t hur t this local chain Keyed in specialty and restricted listings (hello Blue Mountain!), and respected and savvy Sommelier Pam Sanderson at the helm fill the shelves with gems Regular tastings, local representation and community involvement keeps the stores fresh and relevant www.cascadialiquor.com

Spinnakers Spirit Merchants Specialty whiskies? Check Rare Island wines? Check Rare and pricy International bottles? Check. All this plus a searchable web inventory and online store? Fantastic. Overseen by buyer/manager (and EAT columnist) Larry Arnold, you know you’ll always find something special tucked away in the shelves. www.spiritmerchants.ca For t & Foul Bay It’s hard to go to For t & Foul Bay without running into someone you know. From restaurateurs, to wine teachers, and from foodies to non industry folk, the selection has a little something to suit all tastes. As a specialty store, F&FB gets in the big releases, and in good quantities. Their updated website lets you see at a glance what’s in stock, and the majority of staff is in some form of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WS ET) training program

Place to Buy Beer

Innovative Beverage

Heatherdale Ale Salt Spring Island Ales (GOLD)

Victoria Gin - Victoria Spirits (SILVER)

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• BBQ Wild Salmon

Tacones Red Fish Blue Fish

Vietnamese Ginger Caramel Chicken Foo (BRONZE) You’ve got a ten spot What’s your best bet for a bite? Where and what?

• #20 or #34 Pho Vy

• Chicken Club with Brie Relish Food & Coffee

Food carts are here Which one tops your list?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• G alloping Goose Sausage at Moss St Market

• Pizzeria Prima Strada mobile oven

Place for a Snack Attack

Pain au Chocolat Fol Epi Baker y (GOLD)

Cinnamon Bun - Bubby Rose's Baker y (SILVER)

Lemon Tar t Pure Vanilla Baker y & Cafe (BRONZE)

•

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

•

•

•

•

Hankering for that naughty perfect pastry, gelato or other delight? Where will you go? What will you have there?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Gelato Ottavio Italian Bakery

• The Elvis Pink Sugar Cupcakes

• Almond Croissant

Patisserie Daniel

• Fruit Tar t Wildfire Organic Bakery

Spinnakers Spirit Merchants (GOLD) Cascadia Liquor (SILVER) Cook St. Village Liquor (BRONZE)

A true foodie knows craft beer What store knows theirs?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Phillips Brewery

• Hillside Liquor Store

• Swans Beer & Wine Shoppe

• The Strath Ale, Wine & Spirit Merchants

Pub

Spinnakers (GOLD)

Canoe Brewpub (SILVER) Fernwood Inn (BRONZE)

Drinking beer is a highly social activity and pubs come in all shapes and sizes Which one do you like best when you want to hoist a pint or two?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Bard & Banker

• Swans Brewpub

• Irish Times

• Penny Far thing

• The Beagle

24 Mile Blueberr y Pail Ale Phillips Brewing (BRONZE)

Was there a local wine, beer, cider, tea or any other drink you tried this year that sur prised you with its originality? Tell us what it was and which company made it

Café

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Rumrunner Sea Cider

• Belle Royale Driftwood Brewery

• Oolong Tea with Fresh Grand Fir Needles Silk Road

Discover y Coffee (GOLD) Habit Coffee (SILVER) Caffe Fantastico (BRONZE)

Coffee Coffee Island owned and operated where do you go to buy, and drink, that sublime nectar?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Serious Coffee

• Bean Around The World

• Street Level Espresso

• Black Stilt

• The Stick Coffee House

Local Wine

Brandenburg No.3 Venturi Schulze (GOLD)

Célébration Brut Starling Lane Winer y (SILVER)

Damasco Zanatta Winer y (BRONZE)

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Cowichan Blackberr y Cherry Point Vineyards

• Pinot Noir Averill Creek Vineyard

• Pinot Noir Alderlea Vineyards

• Or tega Blue Grouse Vineyards

You’re heading out of the country (or to another province) and want to take a local wine to impress your hosts. What do you bring?

Venturi Schulze Courageous, confident, eccentric, uncompromising, distinctive. That sums up the owners, and the wines. Giordano, Marilyn and their daughter Michelle are hands on to the nth degree. Industry stalwar ts, they’ve been farming and making 100% estate grown wine on their Cobble Hill site since 1987, sans pesticides Their whimsically named wines (The Bad Boys, Terracotta, Brandenburg No 3) are as memorable to the ear as they are to the palate www venturischulze com

Starling Lane Good things happen in threes Three couples Ken and Sue Houston, John and Jackie Wrinch, and Jerry and Sherry Mussio each established their vineyards on the Saanich Peninsula in the early 1990s By 2004 they banded together, establishing Starling Lane Winery Their deep, rich and flavourful Marechal Foch will make any Foch fearer into a fan. www.starlinglanewinery.com

Zanatta

Vignetti Zanatta proves that there’s a bubble out there for everyone. With sparkling wines in numerous styles, flavours and personalities you can find one to suit. Loretta Zanatta and Jim Moody’s flagship bubble, Glenora Fantasia, is made from the rare and obscure Cayuga grape. Picnics at their picturesque Cowichan Valley Winery restaurant, Vinoteca, feature bountiful local farm fare. Pioneers in the Vancouver Island wine industry. www zanatta ca

Food/Drink Experience of the Year

Feast of Fields (GOLD)

The Great Canadian Beer Festival (SILVER)

Defending Our Backyard (BRONZE)

So many events, festivals, classes and seminars on food and drink which one really did it for you?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Heidi Fink cooking classes

•The London Chef cooking classes

• Fernwood Bites

• Victoria Tea Festival

Top Trend of 2010

Eating local food (GOLD) Cocktails (SILVER)

Small plates/half por tions (BRONZE)

What was your favourite local food trend?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Food car ts

• Charcuterie

• Downtown farmers markets

• Traditional, simple food

• Eating less meat, more vegetables

• local, free range meat

• Vancouver Island salt

• Sustainable fish

• Chocolate covered bacon

Group, A ssociation, Busine ss or Gang

EAT Magazine

[shucks thx editor ] (GOLD) Island Chefs Collaborative (SILVER)

Lifecycle Project Society (BRONZE)

Who raised your awareness and gave you a deeper appreciation of food issues in your community?

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Victoria Downtown Public Market Society

• Farm Folk City Folk

• C AMRA

• Food Roots

• Slow Food

Worst Trend of 2010

Pork belly, pulled pork (GOLD) Cupcakes (SILVER) Sliders (BRONZE)

What was your least favourite local food trend this year? (feel free to rant)

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

• Foam on food

• Small por tions

• HST

• No reser vations policies

• Cilantro

• Lame food words gastro, deconstruct

• Being asked “Are ya still workin’ in it?” at restau rants

• Nutraceuticals/Bio Yogur t/ Engineered Foods

• Chocolate covered bacon

let

ive credit | people | groups | food heroes | trends

Lifetime Achievement Award Greg Hays

Greg Hays has been raising the bar on Victoria’s food and wine scene for close to 30 years This is the man who star ted the legendary Herald Street Caffe in 1982, went on to redesign, rebuild and reinvigorate the Marina Restaurant and, most recently, dream and bring to life one of Victoria’s best loved restaurants, Café Brio. Since its opening in 1997, the restaurant has accumulated a well deser ved collection of accolades, receiving top honours from Zagat, Fodor’s, Frommer’s and Where to Eat in Canada, as well as glowing reviews in Gourmet Magazine and Condé Nast Travel In 2003, together with his wife and business par tner Silvia Marcolini, Greg received the prestigious Provincial Restaurateur of the Year Award for Fine Dining from the B C Restaurant and Food Association. Greg is also known for his wine pricing innovations, first implemented at the Herald Street Caffe The $10 mark up on all wines makes higher end bottles more accessible definitely a wor thwhile and appreciated measure when facing the ever changing yet always impressive wine list that Café Brio offers. With this award, we honour Greg for his longstanding and ongoing commitment to suppor ting the region’s ingredients and wines Bravo! R Baugniet

The Foodie’s Foodie Award

Heidi Fink (GOLD)

Gar y Hynes (SILVER)

Shawn Soole (BRONZE)

WI

Bubby

Butchar

Carrot

Cascadia

Devour

WI

Endless

WI

Fernwood

WI

Heidi

WI

N N E R Brandy Patterson

Lifestyle Markets Gift Cer tificate

WI N N E R Lani C aldwell

Muse Winer y & Bistro Gift Cer tificate

WI N N E R Karen O'Mahony

Ottavio Delicatessen Ottavio T shir t & Apron

WI N N E R Kim Smith

Rocky Creek Wine Tasting Experience

WI N N E R C atherine Holt

Sea Cider Long Flight & Platter for 2

WI N N E R Katie Tomlinson

Silk Road Group Tea Tasting

WI N N E R Lon Temereski

Sips Ar tisan Bistro Dinner for 2

WI N N E R Erin FitzPatrick

Sooke Harbour House 1 Night Stay, Breakfast & Dinner for 2

WI N N E R Kristina van Vloten

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub Chefs’ Table for 2 w/ Wine/Beer Pairings

WI N N E R Dan Macdonald

Stage Wine Bar Gift Cer tificate

WI N N E R Danielle Topliss

True Grain Bread Gift Cer tificate

WI N N E R N. Moen

Wickaninnish Inn 1 Night Stay, Valet Parking & 3 Course Dinner for 2

WI N N E R Bob Tyrrell

galette rhubarb

tease

great big halibut pie

Halibut + Rhubarb

T H I S T I M E OF YE A R is s uc h a t e a s e t h e a ir is a live a nd e le c tric w it h a roma t ic bre e ze s a nd t h e s ig ns of g row t h a re e ve ryw h e re . T h e p romis e of fresh, out of the ear th produce dangles before us like a golden carrot but it’s still too early for grand bounty. Plus, there’s still a s lig h t c h ill in t h e a ir t h a t requires the comfor t of a warm h e a r ty me a l. T h is me nu c e le bra t e s t h e p romis e of s p ring : t h e s ta r t of h a libut season, hardy garden herbs are rebounding, delicate asparagus spears are poking up and even e a rly rh uba rb is s t a r ting t o s h ow. S p ring c le a n t h e root c e lla r a nd us e up t h e la s t of those last wintry vegetables!

R ECI PE S ON FOLLOWI NG PAGE S

TREVE’S WINE SUGGE STIONS

OLD WORLD a crisp Cava sparkling wine from Spain would go well bright apple and mineral rich bubbles to cut the strong flavours (cheeses, bacon, garlic) and cleanse the palate Plus bubbles makes anything better especially brunch.

NEW WORLD a mid day meal like brunch suits a lighter red. And a fruity Pinot Noir from a cooler climate, like New Zealand’s Mar tinborough, will retain the grape’s ear thy cherry notes while expressing naturally higher acid due to the growing conditions.

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RING

Creamy in texture and delicate in flavour, this is a fishy version of shepherd’s pie. Loaded with fresh halibut and a mix of early spring and late winter goodies, it is the perfect pie for the changing of the seasons Ser ves 10

3 large potatoes, peeled and chopped

6 cups homogenized milk

1 rutabaga or 2 turnips, peeled and chopped

2 lbs halibut or 1 lb halibut and 1 lb smoked fish*

1 small bulb fennel, thinly sliced

1/2 cup butter

2 to 3 leeks, sliced

1/3 cup flour

1/2 cup chopped parsley or cilantro

1 Tbsp spicy mustard (Tr y Myres Island Gourmet Mustard)

Plenty of chopped fresh thyme

4 hard cooked eggs cut into quar ters

Boil potatoes in salted water until fork tender. Drain well, then mash. Stir in about a 1/2 cup milk to moisten and season to taste with salt and pepper

In a large Dutch oven, bring remaining milk just to a simmer Add rutabaga Cover and simmer until almost tender, about 8 minutes. Add fish and fennel; simmer until cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Strain liquid into a large measuring cup and set veggies and fish aside.

Melt butter in Dutch oven (don’t need to clean) over medium heat. When foamy, add leeks. Sauté until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in flour. Gradually stir in milky liquid a little at a time to form a smooth sauce Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes Stir in parsley, mustard and thyme Taste and season with salt and pepper

Crumble fish into chunky pieces and place in a large casserole dish Add veggies and eggs, then pour sauce over top Gently stir to mix as best you can Spoon mashed potatoes over top be sure it reaches sides of dish Using the tines of a fork, rough up the mashed topping Drizzle with a little melted butter, if you wish, and bake in preheated 400F oven until golden, 15 to 20 minutes.

*With a possible reduction in quotas this year, halibut may be more expensive. To make this pie more budget savvy, use a mix of fish. Try halibut cheeks instead of pricy fillets. When in season, use scallops or spot prawns

Asparagus 101

Choose straight stalks with tight, bright green tips. Snip bottom ends and if stalks are thick, use a peeler to remove tough strings. Refrigerate upright (a wide mouth mason jar works well) with a little water in the bottom. Cover with a plastic and store up to 4 or 5 days. For salads, blanche in boiling water, then dunk in ice water to cool quickly and maintain colour

RHUBARB GALETTE

I love the casualness of a galette. It’s not as tricky as a double crust pie and the rustic look is very forgiving of spills and tears in the pastry. Plus the open centre makes a great show case for the ruby rhubarb A hidden layer of honey infused cream cheese creates a luxurious sweet counterpoint to the tar t rhubarb Ser ves 10

Pastr y

1 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground nutmeg

3/4 cup cold butter, cut into small cubes

4 to 5 Tbsp water

Filling

8 oz cream cheese, at room temperature

1 egg

1/4 cup honey

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 large bunch rhubarb stalks (about 1 1/2 lbs)

1/3 cup honey

2 tbsp cornstarch

2 Tbsp butter, melted

Pinches of coarse sugar (optional)

In a bowl, using a fork, stir flour with salt and nutmeg. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut in butter to form coarse crumbs. Sprinkle water over top and stir with a fork Once mixture star ts to come together, useyour hands to gently form into a ball of dough Pat into a disk, then wrap in plastic Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before rolling

Preheat oven to 400F Beat cheese until smooth Stir in honey, then egg and vanilla In a separate bowl, stir rhubarb with 1/3 cup honey and cornstarch as best you can it will be very sticky.

Roll out dough to form a large circle about 14 inches. Don’t worry if edges are uneven. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (pastry will overhang edges of sheet).

Scrape cheese mixture into centre of pastry and spread to within 2 inches of the edge. Arrange rhubarb over top Fold the edge halfway over the filling, pleating and crimping as you go Brush dough with a little melted butter and sprinkle with sugar

Place in oven and reduce temperature to 375F Bake until pastry is golden and fruit is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour For extra sweetness and a little shine, drizzle more honey over rhubarb centre while it’ s fresh out of the oven and still warm Dish up with yogur t or whipped cream

SUSHI TOWN

Sushi is to Vancouver what curr y is to London ubiquitous and one of the culinar y treats visitors to the city should not miss With hundreds of sushi restaurants to choose from, how ever, it can be hard to tell which places ser ve genuine sushi and which ser ve haphazardly glued fish and rice. I asked three local sushi chefs to share their personal pointers on how to distinguish good sushi.

“I look for the taste of the sushi rice,” says Kei Nireda, head chef of Miku Sushi on Coal Harbour. “People here like sushi vinegar sweeter than in Japan, but rice should be well cooked and flavourful throughout There’s Japanese and Californian grown rice, but I find Japanese rice to be moister, with a gentler texture ”

When teaching others how to make proper sushi, Nireda explains that he squeezes a hand ful of rice for nigiri (individual sushi piece) and holds it in the middle between two fingers “Ideally, the rice should hold for about 10 seconds before falling apar t If it holds longer, it’s packed too tight.” And if a restaurant ser ves pink ginger, don’t get your hopes up, he warns. Pink means poor quality. He describes all you can eat places as “unthinkable” if you’re look ing for real sushi.

Pointing to the restaurant’s opalescent ceiling, Nireda says that the restaurant’s name, Miku, means “beautiful sky” in Japanese, and that his ideal sushi would be the kind of fresh food people would consume while overlooking a gorgeous view It’s a fitting description, given modern sushi’s roots as a stall food consumed in the open air

At Toshi Sushi, a small Mount Pleasant restaurant packed with diners on a nightly basis, chef Manabu Honda offers a tip to customers looking for freshness “You won’t be disappointed if you go to a busy restaurant because their ingredients are being sold fast,” he says, working busily with his sushi knife. From behind the counter, he holds up a “definitely fresh” hikari mono (shiny skinned fish), its scales shimmering in the light.

“We cut fish differently, depending on the ingredient,” Honda explains. “ Thin sliced tuna isn’t tasty, so we cut it thick, while white fish is harder to chew, so we serve it thin. Any proper sushi chef should know this ”

At Shiro Sushi on Cambie Street, owner and chef Shiro Okano says balance is key when looking for well crafted sushi “It’s not great sushi just because they give you lots of fish,” he says “ The best sushi strikes a good balance between fish and rice ”

Okano is a veteran of the local scene who trained under Koji Shimamura, the sushi pioneer who introduced many locals to raw fish during the 1960s He says Vancouver has abundant options for both local and Japan imported ingredients, but customers miss out because many sushi chefs don’t know how to handle and maintain fish. To gauge the food quality, Okano suggests ordering saba, or mackerel, which requires seasoning because it goes bad quickly. “Saba should have just a hint of saltiness,” Okano notes. “If it’s too vinegary or salty, it’s over prepared ”

Motioning me behind the counter, Okano elaborates on another key ingredient nori He holds up a sheet of nori to the light, and the black hued seaweed turns a deep forest green

(cheap nori is green from the star t) “See how it’s even all across?” he says, fingering the smooth texture “ This is nice nori the cheaper kind is rougher and has clumps through out.”

While some sushi buffs insist on Japanese chefs, Okano feels that nationality is less impor tant than character. “Do they keep a clean workspace, do they study a lot about sushi? It boils down to the person’s character.”

Vancouver’s sushi has come a long way from the days when Okano’s mentor had to offer free fish samples to attract customers and assure them it was safe to eat Today, however, he fears the explosive popularity of sushi is linked to the global dilution of traditional Japanese cuisine “You see a lot of East West fusion items now, like cheese in sushi It’s fine as a menu item, but not Japanese cuisine as it was meant to be,” he says with a sigh

As the number of sushi literate customers increases, perhaps the Vancouver sushi scene will experience a second boom this time with quality to match the enormous quantity of restaurants in the city.

Miku, #2 1055 West Hastings St.; Toshi Sushi, 181 East 16 Ave.; Shiro Sushi, 3096 Cambie St.

Vancouver may have more sushi restaurants per capita than Tokyo. Here’s how to. By Jenny Uechi

Kei Nireda of Miku Restaurant, Manabu Honda of Toshi Sushi, Shiro Okano of Shiro Sushi

TREVE’S WINE SUGGE STIONS

Tomato

FOR THE LOVE OF GNOCCHI

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT

Photography by C AROLI NE WEST

I’ve rediscovered gnocchi thanks to a cooking adventure with my young daughter. Who knew home made gnocchi could be child’s play?

Gnocchi (pronounced N'YOH kee) are light little pillow dumplings; nothing like the dense dough I once associated with this dish. Years before I had had the misfor tune of ordering a heavy gnocchi dish smothered in a glop of cheese sauce that left my tummy in a stodgy knot. I swore off gnocchi right then and there. Now, all these years later, I’m making up for lost time with this versatile little gem of a dumpling. Gnocchi complement just about every sauce or pesto imaginable. They are delicious with a hear ty ragù and a pleasant surprise in a light vegetable broth. They can be ser ved simply, sautéed with butter or dressed up with vegetables, meat or cheese. These satisfying morsels add a soft and comfor ting texture to just about any meal. They can be ser ved as an appetizer, entree or side dish. What’s more, they’re easy to master, fun to prepare and can be frozen until needed (think easy enter taining)

There are countless recipes for gnocchi with varying shapes, textures and cooking techniques. Ingredients can include potato, semolina, breadcrumbs, ricotta cheese, walnuts, pumpkin, sweet potato, spinach and rice, to name a few. Gnocchi à la Romaine is a hear ty version made with semolina and prepared much like polenta; the dough is poured onto a sheet pan, chilled until set and cut into shapes. Parisienne Gnocchi is made from paté à choux, a sticky dough shaped with the aid of a pastry bag My favourite version, how ever, is much easier: hand rolled potato gnocchi The process is straightforward: combine warm cooked potatoes, processed through a rice or food mill, with egg and enough flour to form a light dough The dough is then shaped into long ropes and cut into bite size morsels The little gnocco (singular of gnocchi) can be left as is, smooth like a little cushion, or pressed against a fork or a wooden gnocchi paddle to create textured ridges for the sauce to cling (Gnocchi paddles are likely the least expensive gadget you’ll find in a kitchenware store; at about $4 50 a pop, they’re hard to pass up )

The gnocchi are then poached in salted water where they rise to the surface within a few brief minutes You will want to arm yourself with a slotted spoon the minute you drop them in the water Once, after rallying a hungry crowd in the kitchen, I dropped the gnocchi in the simmering water and, distracted by the noisy camaraderie (or perhaps the second glass of wine), I lost sight of my slotted spoon By the time I recovered it, there was nothing left to retrieve from the water, which had turned murky with disintegrated potato.

Once the gnocchi are cooked, they can be lightly sautéed in butter Some prefer their gnocchi sautéed golden brown, while others prefer them pale Either pale or golden, they’re ready to be tossed with your favourite sauce. Gnocchi can also be placed in a baking dish, covered with tomato sauce and baked in the oven or topped with a cheese sauce and gratinéed under the broiler.

I’ve included three easy sauce recipes to adorn your gnocchi a classic sage butter sauce, a rustic red pep per and tomato sauce that outshines any bottled variety, and a luscious lemon sauce with roasted toma toes and sautéed fennel. Play around with your own sauces; gnocchi pairs well with just about everything. Just remember when you’re ready to poach those little nuggets: slotted spoon in one hand, wineglass in the other.

‘

I’ve included three easy sauce recipes to adorn your gnocchi. ’

Potato Gnocchi With Sage Butter

6 8 ser vings or 12 14 appetizers

Ingredients

1 Kg Russet potatoes (about 5 large potatoes), washed but not peeled

1 3/4 cup all purpose flour

1 tsp salt

1 egg, lightly beaten

Equipment

A ricer for processing the potatoes. If you do not have a ricer you can use a food mill, or cheese grater, but a ricer makes the lightest gnocchi.

A slotted spoon or small sieve for removing gnocchi from boiling water

A gnocchi paddle, optional (but a lot of fun)

The potatoes can be baked or boiled in their skins, until tender.

Baked: Place (whole) potatoes on a rack in a preheated 375F oven until tender, about 45 minutes.

Boiled: Place the (whole) potatoes in a large pot of cold water Bring the potatoes to a gentle boil and cook until potatoes can be easily pierced with the tip of a knife, about 45 minutes

When the potatoes are cooked enough to work with, peel them While the potatoes are still warm, press them though a ricer, food mill or cheese grater Place the milled potatoes in a large bowl. Add the whole egg and about half the flour. Mix together with a fork until a soft dough forms. Turn the dough onto your work surface. Pour the remaining flour on a work surface near the dough. (You may not need all the flour.) Using your hands or a pastry scraper, gradually incorporate just enough flour to form a soft, pliable dough. Gently knead the dough until soft, about two minutes

Divide the dough into 8 por tions and roll each por tion into a rope about ¾” thick by 12” long Line up the “ropes” and cut into 3/4” pieces You may leave them shaped as is for a rustic look or you can press them against the tines of a fork or a small wooden gnocchi paddle (The indentations help the capture the sauce ) Lay the pieces on a floured baking sheet, with enough space between them so that they are not touching

(At this point you can freeze them on a baking sheet until solid, then transfer to plastic freezer bags and store in the freezer for up to one month.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and, with a slotted spoon nearby, gently drop the dumplings into the boiling water in batches of about two dozen, being careful not to overcrowd the pot As the gnocchi float to the top remove them with a slotted spoon and continue cooking the next batch

If not using immediately, the gnocchi can be tossed into a bowl of ice water, drained and tossed with a bit of oil They can be stored in a plastic container in the refrigerator this way for up to three days When you’re ready to ser ve, simply reheat the gnocchi in a saucepan with a bit of sage (or plain) butter.

Sage Butter

Melt

NOTE: When cooking frozen gnocchi, add them to the boiling water a small handful at a time After the gnocchi float to the surface, test them to make sure they are fully cooked

Tomato Pepper Sauce

Ingredients

3 pounds of ripe tomatoes (approximately 10 tomatoes), quar tered

2 red bell peppers, cut in half, seeds removed

7 cloves garlic, unpeeled

4 sprigs fresh thyme

Equipment

4 sprigs rosemar y

1/4 cup olive oil

1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp Kosher salt

A food mill or a food processor. The food mill provides a more rustic texture and its built in sieve captures the vegetable skins, which means you don’t need to peel the tomatoes, peppers or garlic before processing.

Preheat oven to 375 In a baking dish or a roasting pan (approx 10” x 12”) combine the tomatoes, peppers, garlic, thyme and rosemary Drizzle with the oil and balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with the Kosher salt Toss lightly to coat the vegetables and herbs with the oil

Roast the tomatoes and peppers for approx 50 minutes, turning over the vegetables halfway through the cooking. The tomatoes should be soft and the peppers charred. Discard the herbs. If using a food processor, remove the skins from the tomatoes, peppers and garlic. Process the roasted vegetables and their juices through a food mill or food processor.

Transfer the processed vegetables into a saucepan and warm until heated through Adjust the seasoning with additional salt and balsamic vinegar, if needed Spoon over warm gnocchi Makes approximately 3 1/2 cups of sauce

Lemon Sauce

1/3 cup unsalted butter

1/3 cup flour

2 1/4 cups chicken stock, preferably home made (plus more if required)

1 cup whole or 2% milk

1/2 cup 35% cream

The sauce

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

1 1/2 tsp salt if using homemade (salt free) stock or 1/2 tsp if using packaged 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper (or more to taste)

Melt the butter in a small saucepan (approx. 5 ½” diameter) over medium low heat. Whisk in the flour and and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the flour and butter mixture is golden coloured Remove from heat This mixture, referred to as a roux, can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use

In a separate, larger saucepan (approx 8 ½” diameter), heat the chicken stock with the milk and cream Whisk the roux into the stock, until the mixture comes to a simmer and star ts to thicken; this will take a few minutes. Continue whisking to ensure there are no lumps. The sauce should be thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon. Add the lemon juice, cheese, salt and crushed red pepper. If the mixture is too thick, add a bit more stock.

Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning with additional salt and/or lemon juice if required. Ser ve a generous spoonful of sauce over warm gnocchi and ser ve with roasted tomatoes and sautéed fennel, if desired

Roasted Tomatoes

1 pint cherr y tomatoes (approx 2 cups)

1 Tbsp grapeseed oil

1 Tbsp freshly chopped rosemar y

1 Tbsp freshly chopped thyme 1/2 tsp Kosher salt

In a bowl, combine the herbs with the oil and salt. Add the tomatoes and toss until evenly coated. On a baking tray lined with foil or parchment, spread the tomatoes out as a single layer, cut side up Roast until tender, about 12 15 minutes

Sauteed Fennel

3 fennel bulbs, sliced thinly

2 Tbsp grapeseed oil

1/2 tsp Kosher salt

Heat the oil in a medium sized saucepan until the oil is shimmering Add the sliced fennel bulbs in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan Sauté the fennel a few minutes on each side until tender and golden Drain on a paper towel and season with salt while still warm

Saturdays 6:30 - 9:30 PM Friday & Saturday Evenings

Snuggle in and sample our new fireside lounge menu

liquid assets

APERITIFS

Aperol, Italy, $22.00-25.00

Aperol is an Italian aperitivo! It is the colour of burnished orange and is flavoured with bitter orange, gentian root, rhubarb and a hodgepodge of misshapen shaped roots and bitter herbs. It is sweet and bitter with a paltry 11% alcohol and is insanely pop ular in Italy. It is a great way to star t an evening; you sit, you drink, you enjoy the mo ment! Try over ice with a splash of soda and a slice of orange. Salute!

WHITE WINE

Cedar Creek Riesling, VQA 2009, Okanagan, $17.90-20.00

Deliciously fresh with an enticing bouquet of tropical fruits, peaches and orange peels! Nicely balanced with crisp acidity, concentrated fruit flavours and a kiss of residual sweetness to round the edges.

Blue Mountain Pinot Gris 2008, Okanagan, $20.90-23.00

Blue Mountain is a family run winery located in the south Okanagan overlooking sce nic Vaseaux Lake. Producing one of British Columbia’s best Pinot Gris; this vintage does not disappoint. Par tially barrel fermented and aged for 7 months in French oak the 2008 has elegant floral aromas, a firm structure with concentrated citrus flavours and a dry crisp palate.

Gehringer Brothers Classic Ehrenfelser, VQA 2009, Okanagan, $14.00-16.00

The variety is a crossing of Riesling and Sylvaner created in 1929 by German plant breeders at Geisenheim in Germany. Its flavour profile is very similar to Riesling but with softer acidity. Ehrenfelser tends to perform better in dodgy vintages than Ries ling but unfor tunately has a bit of an image problem with consumers, but then again, so does Riesling! Go figure! Soft, fruity and utterly delicious with lovely apple and peach flavours nicely balanced with a hint of sweetness!

Hear tland Stickleback Red 2008, Australia, $15.99 18.00 Stickleback ain’t no city wine, pardon my English! It is a big, brawny blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Dolcetto with a dollop Lagrein to get you wondering. Aged for 12 months in a combination of American and French oak, Stickleback is bright ruby red with aromas of sun kissed ear th, tobacco, blackberries and spicy oak Richly tex tured with layers of ripe fruit flavours and a long persistent finish!

Paul Autard Cotes du Rhone 2009, France, $21.20 24.00

The 2009 vintage is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Counoise. It is bright and vibrant with bramble, plum, black pepper and spice aromas, sweet fruit flavours, a patina of soft tannins and a long supple finish Very highly recommended!

Clos du Val Carneros Pinot Noir 2006, California, $34.99 38.00

Very Burgundian I thought to myself upon tasting this California gem. Perhaps Gevrey, it cer tainly has the structure! The nose is bursting with raspberry, black cherry, and spice aromas but it is the plush texture and complex layers of ripe berry flavours and subtle oak nuances that really impress Full bodied with nicely integrated oak and silky tannins! Delicious!!!

Viu Manent Carmenere Reser ve 2009, Chile, $20.00 23.00

Viu 1, at seventy bucks a pop, is arguably one of the best Malbecs produced in Chile today! The Carmenere Reser ve at a mere twenty is cheap in comparison but not lack ing in attributes The 2009 Reser ve was recently awarded the Carmenere Trophy for best wine in its category at the prestigious International Wine & Spirits Competition held in London! Need I say more? Inky black with dark fruit, mocha and herbal aromas, concentrated and powerful with rich berry flavours, well integrated oak and a firm tannic structure. A keeper!

Santa Cristina Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008, Italy, $18.99-21.00

There’s a lot going on here, with layers of red cherry, spice and dusty ear th aromas. Medium bodied, with soft fruit flavours nicely balanced with good acidity and a rasp of fine grained tannins.

Wooden Nickle Lodi Petite Sirah 2009, California, $29.99-33.00

This is one big fruit bomb! Soft and lush, with a silky texture and gobs of sweet, juicy cherry, blackberry and plum flavours. Not a whole lot of finesse just a whole lot of fruit!

VALUE RED

Viu Manent Estate Collection Malbec 2009 Chile $13.00 15.00

This violet hued beauty from the sunny vineyards of Chile’s Colchagua Valley is all a thirsty aficionado could ask of a bottle of wine Medium bodied with ripe raspberry, plum and mocha flavours, a rasp of fine grained tannins and a long firm finish Very fresh, very tasty

Experience the Island Winerie s of BC with Chef David Mincey

In celebration of the new book Island Wineries of British Columbia, join us for an evening dedicated to the unique wines that can only be found on the islands off the west coast of BC Sommelier and EAT online DR I N K editor Treve Ring will be your host as you sample offerings from local winery owner Andy Johnston of Averill Creek.

Chef David Mincey of Camille's Restaurant will be creating a special West Coast menu to pair with each wine being offered, while Treve explains the unique flavours of our island wines, how to pair these wines with our distinctive cuisine, and how Island Wineries of British Columbia can lead you on your next wine tasting adventure.

Don't miss this exquisite evening of fine wine, gourmet food, and a brand new book on our wine island paradise

Friday, March 25th, 2011, 6 PM

Cook Culture, 1317 Blanshard St, The Atrium Building, Victoria, BC

Tickets are available in person at Cook Culture or online at www.cookculture.com and follow the “Cooking Class” links

Tickets: $65, includes a copy of Island Wineries of British Columbia Must be of legal drinking age

Spring... to life. o ... t ingSpr life. fe

or dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the

unique and diverse south Okanagan Golden Mile bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in and experience for yourself.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN

DRINK UP the Islands by

A N EW BOOK CE LE BRATI NG the wineries, distilleries, breweries and cideries of Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands hit the shelves this spring, edited by publisher and editor G ary Hynes, along with a small but mighty pack of E AT writers Island Wineries of British Columbia is a colourful and informative read chronicling the history, grapes and characters making up this unique Island terroir, along with stunning photography and recipes to match

I enjoyed researching my chapters for the book so much and became even more aware of the wealth of new enterprises happening on the islands that the idea for this new column, D R I N K up the Islands, was born. Here, and in future, you can keep current on what’s new from Island wineries.

De Vine Vineyards

Though they quietly star ted selling wine last summer, this Saanich Peninsula winery has been flying so far under the radar, they qualify as foot traffic John and Kathy Windsor, together with their family, are running the soon to be cer tified organic operation, while veteran vintner/distiller Ken Winchester consults as winemaker. Though their ’09 Pinot Gris sold out in a blink, their ’09 Pinot Blanc can still be picked up. www.devinevineyards.ca

Damali Winer y

Another new project in the works is Cobble Hill’s Damali Winery. The Damali vineyard was planted in 2006 and had its first crop of Castel Grapes in the fall of 2009. In the summer of 2009, four new varieties were planted as well as some cultivated blackberries In October, they received approval for a winery licence, and their first wines are to be released in the spring of 2011 They also produce ar tisan infused vinegars, have a busy working lavender farm and operate a B&B on site And you thought you were busy! www damali ca Newly released & ready to DRINK Venturi Schulze Brut Naturel KS Cuvée 2008. $34 $38

Dry, fine, bottle fermented sparkling mystery cuvée These are true Island originals the family and the wine. I make a point of tasting as much of Venturi Schulze’s products as possible. As with fine ar t, appreciation is subjective, but few wineries celebrate and honour the terroir as much as they do. Their new barely rosé is a “secret” cuvée of four varieties, two red and two white, and is as food friendly as they come. www.venturischulze.com

Fiamo’s Draft Prose cco

Last year, Victoria’s industry hotspot Fiamo began selling Prosecco on tap Yes, just the way we’re accustomed to seeing beer being sold The restaurant’s exclusive KeyKeg system allows staff to pull it from the tap at the bar and serve the popular Italian sparkling wine by the glass No wine bottles = less waste The KeyKeg container is lightweight and completely recyclable = green. And the customers (and bar tenders) love it = success. www.fiamo.ca FO R MO R E ON F IAMO VIS IT www.eatmagazine.ca

Wine Buying Clubs

If you’re like me, you’re always on the hunt for new wines to try The Opimian Society might just be the cellar key you’re looking for. Founded in 1973, Opimian (www.opim.ca) is a non profit wine purchasing cooperative with nationwide purchasing power. Members (20,000 and growing) have access to this master cellar, regardless of their province of residence. Opimian wines are exclusive finds and not available through provincial liquor boards. Wine clubs are not a new phenom, but cer tainly not the norm in these government barricaded waters either According to Globe and Mail wine columnist Beppi Crosariol, the Society is “a quietly influential national wine buying club that has done more than any politician or self congratulatory liquor board bureaucrat to catapult the adult drink trade in this country out of the Dark Ages and into the 21st century ”

Members pay an annual fee (ranging from $114 125 depending on province) to gain access to the ever changing catalogue of international wines, from the simple to the sophisticated. All wines have been tasted and selected by Master of Wine Kenneth Christie, and complete tasting notes and cellaring advice are included for each selection. There is no minimum order and wines are delivered to your door Here are a couple of recent wines that arrived in the mail (so convenient!): Treve Ring

Briar Ridge Trio 2007, Hunter Valley & Orange, Australia

True to name, this is a threesome of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Verdelho Citrus crisp, with an oily texture and pleasant finish

Love What We Do www.hestercreek.com

ove W L e hat ercreek.com

Vina Echeverria Casa Nueva Reser va Syrah 2005, Molina, Chile

Jammy blueberries, smoky cherries, black pepper and leather

DRESSED UP & READY TO GO!

KEN WINCHESTER

Does the word “port” conjure up a smoke-filled cigar room full of retired gentlemen? Do you think of sherry as a sweet tipple reserved for your granny? If you’ve managed to make the leap into drinking either, do you still think of them as reser ved for special occasions only?

Banish all of the above The time has come to redefine por t, sherry and their charming lookalikes and embrace them as fashionable, food friendly and ideal for everyday drinking

Por t and sherry belong to a category called for tified wine, meaning grape spirit (brandy) is added to the base wine. If added during fermentation, it’s referred to as the por t method. The alcohol kills the yeast, leaving the wine sweet. If added after fermentation, it is known as the sherry method. In this case, the wine is dry unless sweetened after for tification. But why on ear th add brandy to wine? Centuries ago, it was used to stabilize and strengthen wine for travel The British and Dutch mastered the technique, shipping wines from the hotter climes of Spain and Por tugal to satiate the thirsty masses abroad Years of fine tuning led to myr iad types of for tified wines with countries such as France, Australia and South Africa adding their own offerings to the mix

That boost of alcohol results in wines that are at least 15 percent or more They can be heady stuff but most welcome when you need some for tification yourself. The key is to have them with food or on a full stomach. There are absolutely brilliant matches of sweet for tified wines with desser t, but they don’t need to be confined to the sweet course. Sweet or dry, they’re fantastic ser ved as an aperitif with salty snacks and delicious with a plate of cheese. With the main course, stick to dry for tified wines; they can be surprisingly satisfying.

Perhaps the most widely loved for tified wine is por t Made in Por tugal’s Douro Valley, it’s always sweet and typically red and full bodied Ruby is a well priced, all occasion type of por t Made from a blend of different vintages and aged for a shor t time, it is deeply coloured, bursting with ripe berries and ready to drink upon release Combined with your favourite chocolate bar, it will satisfy your sweet tooth on a Monday night

At the other end of the spectrum, vintage por t is the Cadillac. Pricey and complex, it’s made from the best grapes of a single vintage in a declared year (unanimously acclaimed vintage). Bottled and released after spending two to three years in wood, vintage por t requires decades of aging to show its full potential. When you finally crack the bottle, decanting is highly recommended as it will throw a sediment. Wor th the splurge for significant bir thdays or anniversaries and the ultimate treat with chocolate fondue

Vintage por t too rich for your blood? Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) is a great alternative Made from a single vintage but typically undeclared year, they offer great value Unlike vintage por t, you can drink LBVs young (try with blue cheese) A perennial favourite is the Quinta do Crasto from Por tugal’s Duoro Valley

Much lighter in colour, tawny por t is aged for an extended period in wood before release, impar ting an intriguing nuttiness. It is made from a blend of vintages, and ages shown on the label such as 10, 20, 30 and 40 years are an approximate average. Ser ved slightly chilled, a glass of tawny por t can be totally refreshing on a warm summer evening. Better yet, enjoy as an aperitif with salty roasted nuts The French have long embraced tawny as a ner ve calm ing end of day drink whose sweetness stimulates the appetite

Call us old fashioned, but our for tified wine of choice is sherry Made from a blend of mul tiple vintages and aged in barrels for a number of years, sherry can have pleasant oxidative flavours Fino sherry is an exception Its pungent character has more to do with a type of yeast called flor During the aging process, flor forms a thick film on the top of the wine pro tecting it from oxidation. The outcome is a wine that is pale straw in colour and bone dry with a salty tang and persistent notes of almond and olives. Though considered an acquired taste, we have witnessed many conver ts upon the first sip, especially when accompanied by the right food. Almonds and green olives are classic pairings, but marinated white anchovies

GIVE US STRENGTH

and fresh tomatoes on crostini is a match to die for Note that fino should be consumed within a couple of days of opening as it loses its freshness quickly Ser ve chilled

Best described as an aged fino, amontillado is a richer, fuller bodied style of sherry with higher alcohol After a number of years, the flor yeast dies exposing the wine to oxygen As it matures in the barrel, amontillado becomes amber in colour and develops a delicate nut tiness. Smoked cod and mushroom soup are fine par tners. Though more resilient than fino, amontillado is best consumed within a few days of opening and ser ved with a slight chill.

Unlike fino or amontillado, an oloroso sherry develops completely without the presence of flor giving pronounced oxidative characteristics. Dark in colour and substantial in alcohol, what oloroso lacks in elegance, it makes up for in power and richness. We find it inspira tional when working late in front of the computer When it comes to food, Filipino chicken adobo and beef consommé are de rigueur Oloroso can be served either at room temperature or with a very slight chill Lustau’s Don Nuño from the Jerez region of Spain is a staple Oloroso and amontillado are traditionally dry, but many sweetened versions exist These larger commercial brands have led to the misconception that all sherry is sweet While some are perfectly palatable, if your preference is for dry be sure to ask.

For the sweet tooth, there is nothing better than sipping a decadent PX. Intensely sweet, it takes its name from the grape used: Pedro Ximénez. Grapes are either sun baked or left to ripen on the vine, concentrating the sugars. Dark and viscous with luscious fig and raisin notes, it is almost too much on its own but poured over vanilla ice cream, PX is a heavenly treat Once open, it will keep a long time

The Por tuguese island of Madeira offers yet another unique for tified wine called Madeira Hundreds of kilometres off the coast of Nor th Africa, the island made for an obvious por t for ships en route to Asia, Africa and South America Wine from the island essentially cooked dur ing the long passages through the tropics Its distinctive flavour became sought after and eventually the process was replicated by storing the wine in heated tanks or rooms. Quality and styles of Madeira vary. Depending on the desired style, the wine is for tified at different times during the winemaking process. Regardless of the sweetness level though, the wine is always “cooked” giving “maderized” flavours such as dried fruit, nuts or melted butter. Look for the names Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey. These refer to the grape variety and are the most noble of Madeira grapes Sercial is the lightest and driest (and most rare) while Malmsey is the fullest and most luscious What they all share is a bracing acidity The cook ing process renders Madeira the most resilient for tified wine of all Once you open the bot tle, technically it can last for months Realistically, Madeira is so darn delicious the bottle will be finished before you know it

Beyond Por tugal and Spain, Australia has a long history of producing exceptional desser t wine, using both the por t and sherry methods. The region of Rutherglen is par ticularly as sociated with for tified wines. Unfor tunately, not nearly enough of Australia’s sweet elixirs make it to our shelves. A rare gem in BC Liquor Stores is Penfolds Grandfather Tawny Por t. Beyond this, private wine stores like Marquis Wine Cellars and Everything Wine offer an in teresting selection including Hardys Whiskers Blake, Buller and Seppelt; all of which over de liver for the money

In exploring the world of for tified wine, we must pay tribute to France The country’s answer to por t is the lesser known wine of Banyuls Flavours of plum and dried herbs add an extra layer of interest that might make us opt for a Banyuls over her Por tuguese sibling Chocolate fans, this is your wine. Chapoutier and Domaine de la Rectorie offer great examples. For something more delicate, a for tified Muscat from the Rhône Valley or the South of France does the trick. Light in colour with fresh aromas of orange and marmalade, this makes a lovely aperitif or a great match with lighter fruit desser t.

Centuries ago, wines were “fortified” with brandy to make them more resilient to travel. Today these super-charged tipples are perfect when you ’ re feeling in need of a little fortification yourself.

Once you open the door to for tified wine, it is difficult to close it Options are endless and there is still much more to discover With for tified wine as the global focus at this year’s Vancouver Playhouse Wine Festival, it is the perfect occasion to acquaint yourself with this overlooked category We’ll definitely be in the lineup to get our fill of these rare treats.

FORTIFIED WINE NOTES

Osborne, Fino Quinta, Jerez, Sherr y, 375 mL, $12.75-$15 (SKU# 121236)

Fresh, vibrant and delicate Mouth watering flavours of green olives, mushroom and blanched almond Ser ve with olives and white anchovies The perfect introduction to fino sherry **

Bodegas Hidalgo, La Gitana, Manzanilla, 375 mL, $16.99-$20 (SKU# 124594)

Slightly fuller than the Osborne fino but still refined A natural with macadamia nuts, five year old Manchego cheese and cured meat plate **

Bodegas Alvear, Amontillado Sherr y, 375 mL, $15.49-$20, (SKU# 112789)

Round with generous lingering flavours of hazelnuts An outstanding value and magic with local grilled sardines **Make sure to try their fino and PX as well

González Byass, Apostoles, Ver y Old Palo Cor tado, 375 mL, $36-39* Palo Cor tado is the rarest and, according to us, the most sophisticated of sherries It allies the power and fullness of an oloroso with the finesse of an amontillado It can cer tainly match a myriad of dishes, but we prefer to sip it on its own to fully enjoy its elegance and complexity Here you’ll find captivating flavours of roasted hazelnuts, toffee and dried figs We’ll be lining up at the Festival LDB store to buy as many bottles as we can! **

Taylor Fladgate, 10 Year Old Tawny Por t, 750 mL, $39.95 $45 (SKU# 121749)

Delicious flavours of toffee, dates and chocolate Fantastic with hard and blue cheeses, salted nuts or chocolate mousse. **Head to their table for their 30 year old version.

Penfolds, ‘Grandfather’ Fine O ld Tawny Por t, South Australia, 750 mL, $84.99 $90 (SKU# 440214)

The ultimate choice when money is no object and treating yourself is essential. Decadent toffee, orange and caramel flavours that linger on and on and on. Very complex. Second glass, please!

Sandeman, Fine Ruby Por t, 750 mL, $19.99 $24, (SKU# 23366)

Excellent value when seeking a bottle of por t on a tighter budget. Intense chocolate milk and sweet plum notes. A great match with chocolate cake.

2005 Dow’s, Late Bottled Vintage Por t, 750 mL, $25.99 $29 (SKU# 5333364)

Full bodied with deep dark chocolate, leather, plum and liquor de cassis notes. Ideal with Stilton cheese or intense chocolate desser t. An outstanding value.

** Also try their 1999 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Por t and Crusted Por t

2008 Quails’ Gate Winer y For tified Vintage Foch, 375 mL, $24 29*

Even B.C. has ventured into making for tified wine. Quail’s G ate embraces the hybrid Marechal Foch grape to craft an intense and pleasantly sweet treat. Succulent notes of cigar, prune and dates. Treat your out of town guest and ser ve with local cheeses. **

Broadbent, ‘Rainwater’, Madeira, 750 mL, $26.99 $30, (SKU# 611988)

Intense flavours of toffee, dried fruit and orange balanced by great acidity. Ser ve with hard cheeses or caramel desser t. (We hope to see Broadbent’s brilliant vintage Sercial, Verdelho and Malmsey Madeira in the B C market in the near future )

*Available at private liquor store. Prices may vary.

** Taste it at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

More Festival Finds

Here are some more wines to seek out and try at the 33rd annual Vancouver Play house Wine Festival March 28 to April 3:

M. Chapoutier (France)

2008 Chapoutier Banyuls

Bullers (Australia)

Fine Old Muscat

Victoria Tawny

Fonseca (Por tugal)

Terra Prima Organic Reser ve Por t

10 Year Tawny

40 Year Tawny

Quinta do Panascal 2001

Graham’s (Por tugal)

A great table to try different style of por t side by side

10 Year Old Tawny Por t

1999 Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage Por t

2005 Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Por t

The Tawny

Blandy’s (Por tugal/Madeira)

10 Year Old Malmsey

15 Year Old Malmsey

1977 Bual

what to drink with that by

Treve Ring

SPRING LAMB

Our online DR I N K editor, Treve Ring, asks local wine exper ts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours This time we tackle Baked Spring Leg of Lamb, plus one of the hardest foods of all time to pair asparagus.

OUR EXPERTS:

Mark Shipway (MS) Wine Program Depar tment Head, International Culinar y School. Mark studied winemaking & viticulture at the University of Brighton as well taking the WS ET Diploma in Wines & Spirits in which he graduated with honours in 1999 Mark has been a regular judge for the U K’s premier International Wine & Spirit Competition and is also contributing writer

Marc Morrison (MM) Maître d’hôtel, Sommelier, Brasserie l’école. Marc was the first accredited sommelier in Victoria and brings to Brasserie l'école his passion and knowledge of wine and extensive ser ving and management experience. Marc’s concise, ever changing wine program is crammed with value gems, and he’ll open any bottle in the restaurant if you buy 2 glasses His cozy slip of a Brasserie is perennially packed, and it continues to be recognized internationally as one of the top restaurants, and best wine lists, in Victoria

Sandra Oldfield (SO) Winemaker and owner, Tinhorn Creek Winer y. A native of California, Sandra Oldfield arrived at Tinhorn Creek from Santa Rosa, in time for the 1995 crush. Since then she has taken the production from 1,000 cases to more than 35,000 cases. She holds a master’s degree in Enology from U C Davis (plus Canadian citizenship as of October 2002) Sandra, her husband Kenn Oldfield, and their daughter Melody live in a house perched at the top of the Tinhorn Creek winery vineyards

Cla ssic Dish: Baked Spring Leg of Lamb with rosemar y & garlic, green beans and roast potatoe s.

MS This wine friendly dish is a sommelier’s dream! Generally classic dishes like this one provide a perfect backdrop for classic fine wines from regions like Bordeaux or the nor thern Rhône But let’s be a bit rad and go for something Greek (yes they do make great wines in Greece)! Greece’s round, fleshy Agiorgitiko grape (eye your yee tee ko) has the weight and structure to balance the roast lamb, and its savoury, herb tinged flavours should echo the dishes seasonings nicely Look for Nemea appellation on the label there are a couple available in BC

MM Bordeaux or Bordeaux blend, preferably one with a large percentage of Cabernet Franc. I really like blends that have a high percentage of Cabernet Franc as I feel that grape's floral characteristic would work well with the rosemary and garlic on the lamb. A straight Cabernet Franc would be too light on its own and needs the body provided by Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot

SO The lamb screams a Pinot noir pairing and I have always been par tial to those made in the Russian River Valley area of California The Pinots from this area as very fruit forward but they also have very complex flavours such as jam, spice and vanilla These wines have good depth, and are warm and round great to pair with a succulent roast spring leg of lamb

Bonus: Grilled Spring A sparagus with butter, lemon and sea salt.

MS In contrast to the lamb, this dish is a much harder one to pair wine with, mainly because the vegetal, slightly bitter nature of asparagus is instant flavour clash material. When I think of lemon, sea salt and anything green, I instantly get images of the Mediter ranean and the simple cucina of central & southern Italy Italian whites are just made to drink with this kind of dish and my top choices would be a Verdicchio from the Marche or a Grillo from Sicily Key elements are lightish body, refreshing acidity, clean citrus and herbal favours and no oak

MM Tough One Asparagus is such a dangerous wine food (like eggs and ar tichokes I think it's something about foods star ting with vowels). I've been told that Chinon (a Loire valley red made from Cabernet Franc) pairs well but I think the dish screams for white. I would consider either an aromatic white, such as an Alsatian Gewurztraminer, or a crisp, clean Sauvignon Blanc. I would avoid anything with tannins or lots of oak.

SO I Learned at UC Davis that asparagus is the most difficult food to pair wine with so thanks for the challenge! Almost no wine goes with asparagus, however you prepare it, but the best I have found is any crisp, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc My favourite come from Marlborough in New Zealand, and I am par ticularly fond of the Wither Hills It really gets your mouth watering for a BBQ meal with grilled asparagus.

JOIN THE CLUB

TOFINOi|vàÉÜ|t VANCOUVER THE COMOX VALLEY Okanagan

VICTORIA

Chef Brad Horen has moved to Ottawa to take charge of t heir new convention centre’s kitchen But who will fill Chef Ito’s shoes at the Empress? No word at press time We will resume this round of musical chef hats in the next issue

From fine dining to wild dining, then foraging season is upon us once more, and a great way to make the most of it is to par ticipate in one of the TLC’ s Wildwood Edible Wild Plant workshops, of fered Apr 9 and 10 (www blog conser vancy bc ca/) For a guided forage followed by a delicious meal, Bill Jones is hosting a Wild Food Experience at Deerholme Farm, Apr 30 (www deerholme com)

For edible plants you can have more control over, the Glendale Gardens is of fering an informative program that will see you through the seasons ‘Grow It Cook It Eat It’ star ts March 5th and runs for 12 weeks, ending wit h a Har ves t Fes tival on Sep t ember 24t h Cover ing all aspects of g ardening, com pos ting and preser ving your har ves t, t he prog ram also includes mentorship from seasoned gardeners and mont hly visits to your home garden The garden’s café, Nourish, will be re opening March 1st (www glendalegardens ca) Another garden oasis, The Abkhazi Garden Restaurant, will be hosting a Spring Dinner on March 19th, as well as their annual Easter Brunch on Apr 24 Call early to reser ve (250 598 8096)

Attractions Victoria’s ‘Be A Tourist in Your Hometown’ promotion, running from Mar 2 6 this year, has a few good deals in the “Eats and Treats” categor y, including Buy 1/Get 1 Free entrées at Canoe Club and half price af ternoon tea at the Empress Pick up tickets at Thrif ty Foods locations or visit the websit e (www attractionsvict oria com) Also at t he Em press t his spr ing is a new Pas tr y Apprentice Program that gives kids a chance to test out their own baking skills alongside the hotel’s pastr y chef The program runs on Mar 27, Apr 24, May 22 and Jun 26 (www friendsof theempress ca) Cook Culture is welcoming c hildren (and t heir parents) into t he kitc hen on Marc h 26, for a class called Family Nutrition and Meal Planning 101 Bringing the Family Back to the Table, with Chef Dwane MacIsaac (ICC President) For more de t ails, visit t he calendar pag e of t heir websit e (www cookculture com)

By Rebecca Baugniet

NANAIMO As we move into the year, the world of food is all a buzz about 2011 trends While the mid island is known to “munch to the beat of its own drum”, here are a few picks for those wanting to get foodie fashionable

Ar tisan baked goods are more hip than ever and Bodhi’s Ar tisan Baker y continues to wow locals with creative pastries and hear ty loaves made with house milled flours and healthy flavour enhancing ing redients If you would like to lear n t he craf t, Chef and Mas t er Baker Bill Clay now shares his ar tistic secrets in his new hands on baking classes. Classes will be small so call Bill or Candace soon to book a spot (5299 Ruther ford Road, 250 585 6015) Perhaps by design, one of bread’s oldest par t ners, honey makes a comeback in 2011 This ancient sticky sweet is gaining re popularity due to its nutritional value and also an emerging interes t in regional varieties and taste profiles A visit to t he Jingle Pot Apiaries (2262 East Wellington Rd; 250 753 9619) gives you a taste of Nanaimo Nor th Here ever y jar purchased includes a brief informal education about production and taste profiles by

- Talk about Buzz There was an audible hum coming from food quar ters all over the city when The Empress placed a posting for a new Executive Chef on the Fairmont job board at the beginning of Februar y We soon heard that Chef Takahashi Ito, who had been with the Empress since September 2003, was moving across the harbour to Aura, (Inn at Laurel Point), taking his new position there as Executive Chef on Februar y 28th Patrick Giller stays on as Executive Sous Chef, while former Aura Executive

owner/beekeeper

Nowitz Sol’s creamed honey is not to be missed if available For a taste of the South head to Cedar and Fredrich’s Honey Farm (www beeproducts ca; 250 245 4214) where you can sign up for a more formal workshop, meet the bees and taste the golden goodness of their special fireweed variety I’m not sure who came up with “pie is the new cupcake” but I do know there is room for both in the swee t toot h spotlight A Wee Cup Caker y ’ s (www aweecupcaker y com; 250 591 07 70) owner Medina Mayes agrees and says she can’t keep up with demand Maybe it’s the heat of the debate that has these sweet darlings selling like hotcakes, but I’m guessing it’s the fluf fy texture (even the gluten free), creative flavours and slat herings of creamy butter icing! Meanwhile in t he kitchen at Par fait Gour me t Desser ts (www par faitgourmetdesser ts; 250 740 17 75), Pas tr y Chef/owner Sarah Wallbank prepares pies! Always seasonally filled with gourmet goodness and sometimes gluten free, these pies take on the form of large European tar ts and are as visually appealing as they are scrump tious Both bakeries plan to happily share the sweet tooth spotlight this Easter so you may want to con sider making room for both at your festive table As the weather warms, also watch for Sarah’s gourmet tricycle which soon hits downtown streets loaded wit h anot her up coming trendy treat, t he gourmet popsicle!

I t hink it’s safe to say t hat FRESH is always in style and here are some new picks from Nor t h to South In Parksville, Chef Sean Norris is taking fresh seafood seriously His new Oceanwise menu truly puts the “Pacific” in the Pacific Prime Restaurant at the Beach Club Resor t Most notably the dinner star ter menu is swimming wit h local fare and unique plates (www beachclubbc com/dining; 250 248 8999) In Nanaimo, locals are crooning over Simon Holt’ s “bistro meets diner” menu where the fine selection of creative salads appears to be most notable (6582 Applecross Road; 250 933 3338 ) Fresh f ish and veggies are also aplenty at N anaimo’s newes t sushi bar, N or i Japanese Restaurant Also on the menu are a variety of traditional noodle and grill dishes (203 6750 Island Hwy; 250 751 3377)

The focus is on the Fresh Sheet at the Page Point Bistro in Ladysmith (www pagepointbistro com; 250 924 1100) where chef Josh Massey is taking advantage of t he nearby bountiful waters and Cedar/Yellow Point farmlands to create casual fine dining fare. The regular menu also evolves sea sonally so check in to see what’s new for Spring! Downtown Duncan’s newest gem, Noodles of the World (NOW) will surely impress fresh food fashionistas! In a cozy 30 seat restaurant, Owner/Host ess Sarah Barnes creates an exceptionally convivial and eclectic atmosphere while chef Derrick Mc Farland (formerly of Shelter in Tofino) ser ves up a variety of generous, flavour ful noodle bowls, all piled high with fresh organic greens You will feel spoiled! I must also recommend the incredible let tuce wraps and crab cakes with avocado wasabi dip Reser vations are recommended (161 Station Road; 250 597 0313) by Karma Brophy

Cont’d at the bottom of page 37

VANCOUVER The N ew Oxf ord, (1110 Homer) is t he lat es t proper ty in Jef f Donnelly’ s rapidly expanding fiefdom (www donnellygroup ca) This clubby pubby spot bordering Yaletown, gives a playful nod to famous Oxford University alumni Joseph Heller, Graeme Greene and an imposing Oscar Wilde at the entrance are juxtaposed, not unpleasantly, with flat screen T V’s Tof fee coloured leather armchairs have that “lived in” look A fif ty foot bar (stools are covered with that same comfy leather) welcomes the thirsty to a solid array of libations among them, innovative cocktails, local craf t beers and a daily special $4 25 glass of vino Food is mostly hit with a few misses Dr y rub Maui ribs were bare bones on my visit But a steam ing kettle of island mussels plumped in coconut curr y broth, and a beef carpaccio salad with crispy fried capers hit the spot A ver y good grass fed beef burger with Farmstead cheese is sized to share All Donnelly Group pubs (currently 11 with more in the works) are cer tified ocean wise and green table members Most wave allegiance to a British football club For the “Ox”, it’s Chelsea

The Corsi [f amily] reput ation (Quattro Res t aurants, www quattrores taurants com ) for eleg ant un pre t entious It alian cooking has made its way into t he L’Hermit ag e Ho t el The sleek smar t Q4 Al Centro design by BOX Interiors (MARKET, Coast Restaurant, Yaletown Brewing Company opened its doors in December under Patrick , the youngest Corsi Above the bar a ten panel Jason Gogo abstract (the colour “purple” is in fact, grape juice) looks over the lovely open space Mid day, business folk and happy shoppers (Winners, Home Sense, the Bay and are a mere credit card swipe away) while away an hour or two wit h t hin cr us t pizza from t he Wood S tone oven, and s tuf f ed pannini Prawns, clams and mussels swim in a zippy tomato broth Polpette (meatballs) taste exactly of what they are orbs of veal, pork and smoked caciocavallo Penne with duck sausage is a Q4 Al Centro exclusive Well priced wine by the glass comes in sensible 6 or 10 oz carafes Dinner is more intimate Q4 Al Centro will also cater private functions in the L’Hermtage hotel’s fif teen seat boardroom Stag’s Hollow winer y has added two up market blends to their por tfolio Cachet 1 2008 and Cachet 2 2009 Owner/winegrower Larr y Gerulus and winemaker Dwight Sic k introduced t he duo to select media at the new Legacy Liquor Store (1633 Manitoba) in the Olympic Village Cachet 1, a new wave Spanish s tyle blends tempranillo and merlot wit h a good dollop of syrah and a dash of cab It smac ks delciously of dark cherries and exotic spice Drinking now with a good decant, spicy chorizo, a hunk of manchego or a peppercorn steak wine will blossom af ter a couple of years in the cellar Cachet 2 2009 a classic Rhone style mix of Grenache and syrah get a lif t by from a wee drop of marsanne and rousanne (white grapes) The wine is full of brambly fruit, white pepper and dried sage notes Again, a wine to lay away although impatient imbibers can enjoy it with lamb rubbed and roasted with herbes de Provence and grainy mustard Sick says he will only make Cachet(s) in good vintages The limited production Cachet(s) are available for purchase on line through www stagshollowwiner y com by Julie Pegg

TOFINO/UCLULET

The seasonal kick of f on the west coast is the Pacific Rim Whale Festival March 19 27th This year it’s the big 25th annual, and there are quite a number of fun food and drink events hap pening in addition to all the other informative and interactive events

Jus t before t he s tar t of t he fes tival, t he Wic kaninnish Inn hos ts t he annual Whale Fes tival fundraiser dinner and silent auction gala on March 17 Tickets are $110 per person and include wine pairings and Cont’d on the next page

dinner One hundred percent of the ticket cost and silent auction proceeds to go the volunteer driven festival www wickinn com 1 800 333 4604 250 725 3100 The first festival food event is the Chowder Chowdown on March 20 (11am 2pm) at the Ucluelet Community Centre Chefs bring their chowder and square of f against one another for favourite chowder honours as voted by the public Moving on to the sweet end of the palate, Sweet Indulgences is an all you can eat desser t extrava ganza on March 21 There will be live music and another vote for your favourite, also at the Ucluelet Community Centre (7 9pm) The 6t h annual Mar tini Mig ration happens Marc h 23 This event is always a sell out as local mixologists vie for the best whale festival mar tini and themed display At the Tofino Community Hall from 7pm 12am New this year to the festival is Barnacle Blues at Black Rock Oceanfront Resor t This event is a fundraiser and will feature a raf fle auction and music by Jim Byrne as well as savour y delectables by Chef Andrew Springett Black Rock and Chef Springett are also host ing A Whale Tail of a Wine Dinner on March 26, with Bob Ferguson of Kettle Valley Winer y and Roger Dossman of Alderlea Vineyards The dinner in Black Rock’s wine cellar star ts at 6:30 pm and is $120 per person (inclusive) Meet the winemakers at a wine and cheese beforehand at 3pm in the Float lounge ($16 per person) www blackrockresor t com 1 877 762 5011 250 726 4800

For more on the Whale Festival, visit www pacificrimwhalefestival com SoBo owners Ar tie and Lisa Ahier reopened their doors Feb 11 af ter a shor t winter break Their new menu features Vancouver Island raised meat for the first time Watch for live music (no cover charge) ever y Friday in March and April www sobo ca 250 725 2341 The Spotted Bear Bistro is adding a weekend brunch in March Chef Vincent Fraissange will be making his own corned beef, bacon and sausage for the Saturday and Sunday brunches www spottedbearbistro com 250 725 2215 The bigg es t announcement so f ar t his year is for Feas t Tof ino Ucluele t , a mont h long culinar y celebration planned for May Co sponsored by Eat, this event will run from May 9 and lead up to the 9th annual Tofino Food and Wine Festival June 3 5 The brainchild of the Tofino Ucluelet Culinar y Guild, Feast celebrates the abundance of locally available seafood as well as the sustainable boat to table practices espoused by t he TUCG and many local res taurants Feas t will have a dine around component at local restaurants A weekly featured seafood (salmon, crab and spot prawns) will be the focus of Saturday cooking demonstrations and tastings on the whar fs in Tofino and Ucluelet Several celebrity chefs have been confirmed to attend Feast events and host dinners, including “Iron Chef” Rob Feenie, Ric k Moonen of rm seaf ood in Las Veg as and many more Please see t he ar ticle in t his edition for more information www feastBC com www tucg ca By Jen Dar t

THE OKANAGAN The Okanagan food and wine world is buzzing with the long awaited opening of Miradoro Restaurant Located at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards on the famous Golden Mile Bench in Oliver, Miradoro appropriately translates to “golden view” in Por tuguese A par tnership between the Oldfield’s, owners of Tinhorn Creek and Manuel Ferriera, owner of Le Gavroche in Vancouver, the scheduled opening is April 1st Executive Chef Jef f Van Geest (of Vancouver’s Aurora Bistro and Diva at the Met fame) will be at the kitchen helm Miradoro will be open 10 months of the year for lunch and dinner and ser ve “market cuisine” in a relaxed fine dining atmosphere It seats 65 people inside with a 65 seat patio allowing stunning views of our spectacular South Okanagan Valley www tinhorn com Welcome Slow Food Okanagan! Kristen Laprise will be heading up the exciting new Okanagan convivium www slowfood com or visit their facebook page: Slow Food Okanagan Chef Grant de Montreuil, well known local restaurateur, began producing per fect thin crust pizza shells for sale in Kelowna and area a couple of years ago With over the top success and high demand, de Montreuil has launched has own pizza joint: Wedge Ar tisan Pizza in Nor th Kelowna Of fering take out and deliver y only a welcome pizza deliver y option for t he gourmand Fernando's Taqueria opened t his winter at 279 Bernard Avenue in Kelowna Anot her creation of dynamo restaurant duo Bernie and Louis of S turgeon Hall/Bordello’s fame, t his Mexican eater y makes seriously good margs Must tr y is the No 34 an Avocado Cilantro creation (778) 478 0330 Urban Distilleries is a new small batch micro distiller y that recently opened in Nor th Kelowna Master distiller and owner, Mike Urban is producing top shelf gins, vodkas and rums including their signature "Spirit Bear" line Open to t he public Monday to Friday 9 5 and Saturday 11 5 www urbandistilleries ca Christa Lee and Cameron Bond of Local Lounge Grille in Summerland are excited to announce t he move of their current small liquor store a new 7,000 square foot space located next to IGA in Summerland The market will feature a show kitchen, cooking classes and a retail area with books, wine glasses and other gif t items www thelocalgroup ca Kelowna has launched Canada’s newest chapter of Soup Sisters at end of March Founded in March 2009 by Calgarian Sharon Hapton, Soup Sisters is a non profit organization that helps coordinate groups of caring women to get together to prepare and deliver homemade soup to women's shelters in their community Working with culinar y par tner, Chef Neil Schroeter, who will be donating his time, instruction and new restaurant space to house these monthly soup making bees, the community response has been hear twarming Schroeter’s new resto digs are HQ for his Okanagan Street Food catering business will be ser ving breakf as t and lunc h 812 Crowley Avenue, Kelowna www soupsis t ers org www okanaganstreetfood com Abby’s Spice & Tea Store on Kirschner Road in Kelowna had a bad star t a few months back when a horrible fire ravaged their building On the mend and back in business, owner Abbygale Matvieshen is sharing her passion for spice and tea in a big way Fresh spice blends, exotic whole spices, impor ted olive oils, ar tisan vinegars, and a plethora of beautiful teas await www kelownaspiceandtea com Over 130 top res t aurants from across t he countr y par ticipat ed in Canada’s Food Day 2010 competing for the prestigious Southbrook Canadian Wine Award This award is given to the chef whose menu best represents creative, conscientious wine pairing with an emphasis on “eat Canadian, dr ink Canadian ” We are so proud of our locavor ian hero, Chef/Sommelier Mark Filatow of Water front Restaurant and Wine Bar in Kelowna who unanimously was awarded Canadian Wine Award Gold www water frontwines ca by Jennifer Schell Pigott

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In May, Tofino-Ucluelet hosts a month-long celebration of the local catch.

“I can tell people where [a fish] was caught, when it was caught. Stories behind the fish sometimes,” said Tofino fisherman Jeff Mikus “It adds that personal touch ”

Mikus, who fishes spot prawns, salmon and crab in the waters off the west coast of Van couver Island and brings it to the back door of local restaurants, is the embodiment of the Tofino Ucluelet Culinary Guild’s boat to table philosophy

This year old association is a collective of chefs and restaurateurs who have banded to gether to source as many sustainable local ingredients as possible.

That means sharing transpor tation on products sourced from farms on Vancouver Island and the rest of B.C. It also means taking advantage of what’s already here in abundance, like the seafood caught by Mikus, himself a board member and co owner of the Wildside Grill restaurant in Tofino

Buoyed by an initial fundraising dinner that had local chefs each preparing a course, the TUCG has also helped fund cooking classes and the local school lunch program in an effor t to share the products they’re passionate about And they’re now in the final stages of planning a month long series of culinary events around the local catch this May.

Feast! Tofino Ucluelet, scheduled to star t May 9, is a celebration of local and sustainable seafood says Shelter Restaurant owner and TUCG board member Jay Gildenhuys. It’s also meant to be a nod to the restaurants in the region.

“What’s amazing about this area, what we all know, is the incredible restaurants we have here,” said Gildenhuys It’s impressive for a small town, is what many tourists say It’s un heard of for a small town, says Gildenhuys “No town this size has this kind of culinary scene We wanted to do something that celebrates the area’s sustainable fish and recognizes the culinary strength in Ucluelet and Tofino ”

Feast! Tofino Ucluelet will not only showcase local chefs’ talents but will incorporate the ex per tise of several celebrity guest chefs. So far the confirmed chefs include Rick Moonen of rm seafood in Las Vegas, Canada’s Iron Chef Rob Feenie, Brad Holmes of Ulla Restaurant in Victoria, Peter Zambri of Zambri’s in Victoria, Hayato Okamitsu of Catch Restaurant in Calgary and JC Poirier of Vancouver’s Campagnolo’s. Feast! will run until the star t of the Tofino Food and Wine Festival June 3 5 and includes a

dine around component with $29, $39 and $49 prix fixe menus available at numerous restau rants

Guest chefs will make appearances for special dinners at local eateries and will also par ticipate in the demonstrations and tastings planned for the town wharfs on each Saturday of Feast!

At each of three Saturday festivals salmon on May 14, crab on May 21 and spot prawns on May 29 chefs and seafood processors will gut, crack, sauté, steam and grill their way through the afternoon, offering tips and tastes to the public.

Gildenhuys said B.C. wineries and perhaps even a brewery, as well as various information booths, will also be there to add to the festival atmosphere Tourism Tofino is touting the event as a collaboration, not only on the culinary side of Tofino, but also with its accommo dation and excursion providers Special “Stay, Dine & Do” packages offered by hotels and ma rine guides allow visitors to experience the full gamut of what the area has to offer There is talk of crabbing trips in Tofino Inlet to add to the usual spor ts fishing and whale and bear watching adventures

At press time, Tourism Tofino was a confirmed sponsor, along with Eat Magazine and the TUCG.

The culinary celebration is welcome news to Kira Rogers, director of the Tofino Food and Wine Festival. “I think it is really great that Tofino and Ucluelet are bringing more culinary experiences to the table,” she said, “and I’m looking forward to a successful series of local events ”

Mikus, who reser ves a por tion of his catch for his own and other local eateries, is hopeful the personal connection between chef and fisherman will continue to make the difference in what is ser ved in restaurants The demand is there with locals, he says: “So many people want local product, I have a hard time keeping up ”

“We’re lucky living on the Island; people seem more conscious about how food is produced and caught. Where it comes from.”

For more information on Feast! Tofino Ucluelet, please visit www.feastB C.com and www.tucg.ca.

MAY 9 - JUNE 5

TOFINO UCLUELET

The first annual Feast! TofinoUcluelet, a month-long series of culinary events, launches May 9, 2011.

Highlights include dockside festivals, prix fixe menus, land & water events, and ‘Stay, Dine & Do’ packages. Acclaimed regional chefs, including Angus An, Rob Feenie, Brad Holmes, Rick Moonen, Hayato Okamitsu, JC Poirier, and Peter Zambri will be making special appearances.

Salmon Week May 9-14

Crab Week May 15-21

Spot Prawn Week May 22-28 Food & Wine Week May 29-June 5

Celebrate the abundance of our local seafood and fresh island cuisine — all wrapped up in the month of May celebration of BC’s finest foods & festivals, culminating with the 9th annual Food & Wine Festival, June 4.

For events, accommodation & activity specials, visit www.feastBC.com.