EAT Magazine 13-01 January|February 2009

Happy New Year to all and welcome to our first issue of 2009 Looking ahead you’ll find a newly balanced E AT one that not only keeps you up to date on new restaurants, but one that also seeks out restaurants that may have been overlooked and that offer great value I expect the hyper amped Vancouver scene to cool and I know eaters will be searching for ways to dine out well without unnecessary and expensive frills. Expect social and shared plates dining to gain traction it’ll be all about good food with friends and family. We’ll continue to suppor t local food and wine producers but we’ll also spend more ink on telling you where you can find the products and great ways to cook with them We want to provide solutions for those wanting to cook well, healthy and sustainably at home this year

G ary Hynes, Editor

Concierge

Editor in Chief G ary Hynes

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant Katie Zdybel

Local Repor ters

Victoria: Katie Zdybel

Nanaimo: Su Grimmer

Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer

Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers Vancouver: Julie Pegg

Okanagan: Jennifer Schell Pigott

Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, Mara Jernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Chris Mason Stearns, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman

Ar t Direction G ary Hynes

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

Adver tising:

Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), G ary Hynes (agencies, regional and national) 250 384 9042, adver tise@eatmagazine ca

All depar tments

Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel 250 384 9042, fax 250 384 6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com

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Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year No par t of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher Although every effor t is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur All opinions expressed in the ar ticles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher Pacific Island Gourmet reser ves the right to refuse any adver tisement All rights reser ved

MONTREAL HIGH LIGHTS

FESTIVAL

Montreal, Quebec will be celebrating in style this winter season with its one of a kind Montreal Highlights Food and Wine Festival being held from Thursday, Februar y 19th to Sunday, March 1, 2009 For ten days the city will host one of Nor th America’s premier gourmet events and to commemorate its 10th year Montreal has invited thir ty of Paris, France’s top chefs to par ticipate.

This year’s Honorary President is master chef Alain Passard, whose restaurant L’Arpege is considered one of the very best in Paris “We have put together a group of young chefs that represent the Paris scene today,” said Passard from his restaurant in the 7th Arrondissement near the Eiffel Tower. “ They represent the most talented, enthusiastic and creative of the Parisian chefs ”

“ The two key factors in Paris cooking are creativity and research,” continues Passard

You will find this in all types of restaurants from bistro to gastronomic. Chefs are incorporating cuisines from Morocco and Asia, highlighting simple yet premium quality ingredients and using their creativity to present their dishes in new ways For example, a simple dish of beets are prepared in a salt crust to maximize their flavour ”

During the festival, the Paris chefs will join with Montreal chefs to share the stage and cook at their counterpar t’s restaurants. Chef Passard will co host the festival’s opening night dinner with Norman Laprise at Toqué!. Like Passard’s L’Arpege, Toqué! is known for sourcing sustainable products and giving credit to the producers on their menus Says Passard “In Paris, customers are demanding to know the provenance of their foods ” Passard expects to discover new products while in Quebec for the Toqué! dinner. “ The menu will revisit some of the classic dishes from my restaurant but I expect to be influenced by spontaneity as I discover wonderful Quebec ”

Another highlight of the festival will be the Ten star Event, which will be a rare oppor tunity to taste the cuisine of ten Michelin star chefs. By G ary Hynes

Visit the Festival Web site at montrealhighlights.com

SCOT TISH MONTH at MCLEAN’S SPECIALT Y FOODS

Featuring Scottish cheeses, oatcakes, chut neys, jams, biscuits, and teas all month And of course, the Annual Haggis E xtravaganza from Jan.19th 24th. On Jan. 24th, the skirl of bagpipes will resonate throughout Nanaimo’s Old City Quar ter with a toast to Rober t Burns that includes copious amounts of whisky and haggis. 426 Fitzwilliam St., Nanaimo.

11TH ANNUAL ICEWINE FESTIVAL

Jan 11 The winter wonderland Sun Peaks Re sor t combines with world famous Icewines and Late Har vest wines from Okanagan Wine Country For those who love to both ski and sip, this shouldn’t be missed sunpeaksre sor t com

COOKING CL A SSES at FAIRBURN FARM

Spice Up Your Suppers cooking classes will be held Tuesday nights, Jan 13 Feb 10 $99 for two classes or $180 for four Basic and Ad vanced Skills class teaches a wealth of useful skills with lots of great new recipes. Runs Feb. 1 22. Visit fairburnfarm.bc.ca for details.

HALIBUT with CHEF K AREN BARNABY

Jan 14 Join us tonight for another great seafood menu with Chef Karen Barnaby, Exec utive Chef at the Fish House in Stanley Park. Bring an appetite and plan to be inspired to recreate some amazing dishes at home $60 per person, star ts at 7pm wellseasoned ca

RED WINES to BEAT the WINTER BLUES

Jan 14 With the holiday season over there are few festivities to distract you from the cold, dark and rainy weather It’s time to cozy up by the fire with rib stickin’ fare like meat stews and pasta and fuller bodied reds Think Caber net Sauvignon from Australia, hedonistic Prim itivo and the structured beasts of Por tugal House Wine will pour these and many more wines to warm the soul. O’Douls, Vancouver. Call 604.780.4788.

E ARLY BIRD T ICKETS for the VANCOUVER PL AYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

Jan 15 This much loved festival attracts some of the biggest industry names from around the world and is firmly established as the conti nent's premier wine event and among the biggest, best and oldest wine events in the world Tickets to all consumer events go on sale Jan 27, and tickets to all trade events go on sale Feb 3 Festival takes place Mar 23 29 Visit playhousewinefest com

FIRST ANNUAL AWARDS FOR EXCELLENCE IN CHINESE CUISINE

Jan 15 An awards ceremony celebrating the Chinese cuisine of Vancouver at the Edgewater Casino, Plaza of Nations. Star ting October 21, the dining public will be invited to vote online by registering at www.VoteDinersChoice.com. Ten members of the general public will also have a chance to win dinner for six at any one of the winning Diner’s Choice restaurants as well as 2 tickets to the awards ceremony in January

RAW FOO DS COOKING CL A SS at the THRIFT Y’S TUSC ANY VILL AGE

The Cooking & Lifestyle Centre at Thrifty’s Tuscany Village will be hosting six cooking

classes throughout January and February in cluding Raw Foods with Elyse Nuff: All Break fast More classes at thriftyfoods com CHINESE NEW YEAR DINNER with Les Chan Jan 23 ‘ The Year of the Ox’ $35 Gold City Restaurant, 250 383 7317

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PA STA MAKING CL A SS

Jan 26 Chef/Owner Adam Pegg of Kitsilano's La Quercia will reveal a few of his pasta mak ing secrets for this class, with a menu which will include stuffed, hand made and desser t pasta and noodles. In typical decadent Quince fashion the class will enjoy the evening's cre ations with paired wine at the har vest table in our G allery. Call 604.731.4645

February

NICHOL VINEYARD DINNER at Cafe Brio

Feb 5 Five Courses 5 Wines $95 (tax and gra tuity not included) 944 For t St , Victoria, 250 383 0009

THE ISLANDS PROJECT

DECON

STRUCT ING WINE WORKSHOP AT QUAIL’S GATE WINERY

Feb 7 Join resident Sommelier, Jon Randle as he guides par ticipants through a series of ed ucated blind tastings of international and local wines Enliven the pallet and senses with the different styles of wine that the world has to offer. Each workshop is themed by a grape va rietal or viticultural region. quailsgate.com

CHEF FOR A DAY PROGRAM

Feb 7&21 Join Chef Cari Reid as she shows you what its like to be Chef For a Day. From plan ning the menu, to shopping for ingredients, preparing the meal and then sitting down and enjoying the benefits of your hard work, this is hands on class full of fun For more details visit edible britishcolumbia com

3rd ANNUAL VICTORIA TEA FESTIVAL

Feb 14 15 Held in the Crystal G arden, The Vic toria Tea Festival is the largest public tea exhi bition in Nor th America and is hosted in beautiful Victoria renowned for its heritage with tea Tea tastings, delectable tea food se lections, complimentary lectures and much more suppor t Camosun College Child Care Ser vices. Tickets $20. victoriateafestival.com

VIVE L A FRANCE CHEESE TA ST INGS at Les Amis du Fromage

Feb 17 Make room in your schedule for this fantastic cheese tasting where you will explore some of the many regions from France. This tasting promises to highlight some of the best that France has to offer, and will include some classic cheese pairings with wines from the Al sace, Loire valley and Bordeaux Sells out quickly buycheese com

SEEDY SATURDAY

Feb 21 Stick it to Monsanto! Come out to a community event that features organic, her itage and unique seeds for sale by small grow ers, master garderners on hand for questions, a community seed swap, and lots more. Ad mission is $5, under 12 are free. Victoria Con ference Centre, 720 Douglas Street.

BEAT THE FEBRUARY BL AHS

Feb 21 B C wine tasting, 40 new releases, Advance tickets only $25. VQA Wine Shop at Mattick's Farm 250 658 3116.

Follow Michael Stadtländer, his family and a team of apprentices on a culinary tour of the islands off the coast of British Columbia. Piling into a customized bio-diesel/kitchen school bus called “The Liberator” Stadtländer and crew travel across Canada to find the freshest food imaginable at the farms, harbours, markets and co-ops of the islands. The result is some of the most beautifully presented and obviously delicious food around documented in a charming, eccentric and entertaining film. Michael Stadtländer in attendance.

Victoria’s Culinary DNA

CHAPTER THREE

A restaurant history series by Gillie Easdon

An Industr y Matures

From the fire and fury of Pierre Koffel at the Deep Cove Chalet to the elegance and beauty of more convenient haunts such as Chez Daniel, La Petite Colombe, Café Français, The French Connection, Chez Ernest and Micheline’s to present day Restaurant Matisse and Chez Michel, Victoria has a significant G allic legacy Vital to the chefs’ creations and to Victoria’s early restaurant development was Nor th Douglas Dis tributors, which Armando Barbon star ted in 1972 What is now a huge corporation (it was acquired by SYSCO Corp , Nor th America’s largest foodser vice marketer and distributor, in 2000), began in a small, 1,100 square foot deli, with restaurateurs sourcing quality ingre dients out the back door.

A year earlier, another French restaurant, Chauney’s, with a focus on seafood, was opened by past Empress Hotel banquet manager Dominique Chapheau and maitre d’ Harr y de Zwager Chauney’s celebration of seafood was unprecedented in Victoria “One woman sent back these enormous beautiful prawns because the eyes were looking at her,” says Chapheau “So, we cut off their heads and sent them back out Then she was fine ” It was a time when oysters were available from the East Coast only and even then, they arrived pre shucked in a bucket Chauney’s, with its high ceilings and pillars and a gorgeous lo cation across from the Empress, was the site of the “most powerful lunch in Victoria,” rem inisces Chapheau. In 1981, Chapheau sold his half of Chauney’s to de Zwager and opened the stunning Chantecler, taking with him dishwasher Michael Clark, who ran the restaurant for years.

George Szasz, another integral par t of Victoria’s European connection, grew up in Van couver steeped in the restaurant business His grandparents had come over from Hungary in the 1950s and had established Szasz, a delicatessen that ser ved up Eastern European comfor t food for more than 35 years After a few years with a restaurant in Smithers with Linda and their children, George heard through the grapevine that Daniel Rigollet was planning to sell Chez Daniel in Victoria Not keen on returning to Vancouver, the Szasz fam ily moved to the Island in 1997.

Fur thering the tradition of fine French food in Victoria, John Philips and David Reimneitz opened Matisse in 1997 with George Szasz. A year later, Daniel Rigollet sold Chez Daniel’s location to George and Linda Szasz, who opened Paprika in 1998.

The two were impressed by the abundance and excellence of local produce and livestock and, George relates, “deeply moved and inspired” by the suppor t and welcoming commu nity of the restaurant industry in Victoria In mid 2007, George and Linda opened Stage, a Fernwood establishment that has changed the neighbourhood, giving it a foodie destina tion of its very own

Victoria Comes of Age: The Herald Street Caffe

“ The French

over to a dining room as friends Greg Hayes, Mark Finnigan and Helen Bell finish off a sumptuous meal and a bottle of wine or two “Let’s cost this meal out,” says one of them And with this unassuming suggestion, the fer tile seeds of Herald Street Caffe were sown for future Victoria restaurant greats a herald indeed

The building at 546 Herald Street had been an old Chinese rooming house, and the ini tial inspection yielded a “bizarre trip down memory lane with pigeon shit,” says Hayes. Following a turbid barrage of backers, backer outers, rebackers, relatives and friends, Her ald Street Caffe cracked open in 1982 with the help of an idealistic team of investors and believers including the electrician hired to metamorphose the space into a working restau rant.

“Greg Hayes pushed the city beyond its limits,” says Glenn Barlow of BC Wine Guys and a popular local wine consultant With a delicious late night menu, an all star crew and an eclectic, fer vent mess of people lined up down the block every weekend screaming for a table, Herald Street Caffe was “a par ty every weekend ” The food, with pastas from $4 75 a plate, was simple and delicious An attempt to remove the curiously addictive ginger chicken was met by a barrage of letters from staunch Herald Street disciples. It was the place for industry folk to decompress after work, for people to continue the revelry and carousing after other restaurants had shut for the night. And when they finally kicked the last guest out around 3 a.m., it was time for the staff to unwind. The legend of Herald Street endures as past ser vers, such as Barlow, smile wide and shake their heads at the memo ries of the antics that ensued “Daniel Rigollet used to love to come to Herald Street and I loved to ser ve and then sit with him,” says Barlow Eventually and inevitably the hem of the once idealistic team of investors and believers star ted to fray Due to professional and visioning differences, the initial team disbanded, leaving Mark Finnigan and Helen Bell with the Caffe In 1993, Greg Hayes and par tner Sil via Marcolini turned their attentions to the Marina with owner Bob Wright, where they spent three years. The space was redesigned by JC Scott. The food was extraordinary, and the award winning wine list did not change the fact that, according to Hayes, “when you do food that people think is a bit chichi, you get the foodies and the reviews, but not the people ”

Next Issue: chapter four Cafe Brio, Camille’s

Herald Street Caffe interior circa 1980’s

GOODFORYOU by Pam Durkin

Now Chow

Couture runways aren’t the only places you can spot trends you can find them in the aisles of your favourite food store. Even health foods are subject to a cer tain degree of “trendiness,” often fuelled by both the current Zeitgeist and the in creasing onslaught of ever changing news from the world of nutritional science. What are the trends awaiting health conscious consumers in 2009? Let’s look at some likely bets

HEIRLOOM FOODS You may have seen them at your local farmer’s market misshapen tomatoes, knobbly squash, imperfect apples What these unattractive goodies lack in aes thetics they more than make up for in taste I’m speaking of heirloom fruits, vegetables and to a lesser degree grains. By definition, heirloom foods have been cultivated from seeds that have been in use for 50 years or more. How do they differ from standard fare? Most food you buy is grown from seeds that have been hybridized cross bred to make the plants produce a product uniform in size and shape, resistant to pests, hardy and, unfor tunately, often lacking in taste. But heirloom seed varieties are slowly making a come back and nowhere in Canada is it as strong as on Vancouver Island “When I talk to people from other par ts of Canada, they are amazed at the grassroots heirloom seed movement here,” says Bernie Mar tin Wood of Two Wings Farm, a local supplier of heir loom seeds Researchers at Rutgers University recently determined heirloom produce is much more nutrient dense than produce grown from hybridized seeds

BL ACK

RASPBERRIES

Several years ago, when researchers at Tufts University hailed blue berries as superstars in the fight against cancer, the demand for the little blue fruit rose almost as fast as its price. That scenario is about to be repeated with the newest star on the berry bush the black raspberry. Researchers at Ohio State University recently com pared the antioxidant proper ties of black raspberries with those of blueberries and straw berries and black raspberries prevailed They have 11 times more antioxidant activity than the much hyped blueberry Preliminary studies suggest black raspberries can help ward off oral, esophageal and skin cancers to name but a few With scientific validation like this, it won’t be long before black raspberries are added to everything from energy bars to yo gur t.

Thankfully, a Denman Island company specializing in wild fruit jams Lily Plain Summer (www.lilyplain.com) is ahead of the trend. The company is already producing a succulent, low sugar Wild Black Raspberry Jam that is disappearing fast off the shelves at Victoria’s Choux Choux Charcuterie and Granville Island’s Edible BC.

TEA BARS Today’s trendsetting tea bars offer a completely different experience than the cozy, faux British tearoom of old These modern spaces offer innovative libations, all made from premium quality, loose leaf teas And they’re popping up all over major Nor th Amer ican cities including Vancouver and Victoria Yaletown’s Ocha Tea Bar, West Cordova’s Muzi Tea Bar and Victoria’s recently opened Good Health Teas are perfect examples. Why is tea so hip? Susanne Gregory, owner of Good Health Teas, explains. “ The health bene fits of tea are astounding there is irrefutable evidence that shows tea can help fight hear t disease, cancer, Alzheimer’s ... even osteoporosis. “And,” she enthuses, “whereas coffee is sor t of a one note wonder, tea comes in so many delicious flavours ” Cozy up to a tea bar near you and see for yourself

SOURDOUGH BREAD Sourdough bread a trend? Yes, thanks to a recent study published in the British Journal of Nutrition Professor Terry Graham and a team of researchers at Guelph University examined how people responded to different types of bread after eat ing them at breakfast and dinner. Of all the breads tested white, whole wheat, whole wheat with barley and sourdough white bread the sourdough had the most beneficial ef fect on blood sugar and insulin levels. Surprisingly the whole wheat bread had the most deleterious effect. Why is that impor tant? An increase in both blood sugar and insulin lev els as was witnessed after study par ticipants ate whole wheat bread has been asso ciated with an array of health problems Keep in mind this study tested only those fluffy whole wheat breads made strictly from flour not the heavy, European style whole wheat breads made from intact grains Just what is it that makes sourdough bread so healthy? Sourdough bread undergoes a fermentation process that alters its starches, changing the way it is digested in the body. This same fermentation process has been found to aid in nu trient absorption and create beneficial bacteria that help keep our immune systems strong. All this good news combined with sourdough’s bold, intense flavour ensures its “rise to the top.”

New research is constantly spawning food trends.

Julie Pegg

Dancing to the Beet

This earthy orb chases away winter’s chill.

young or bake if mature In a roasting pan, place one bunch of whole, washed but not peeled beetroot, about half a cup of water, a good splash of olive oil, sea salt and cracked pepper. Cover with aluminum foil and bake in a 400ºF oven for about 45 min utes. Pierce the beetroot with a thin knife or skewer (Do not use a wide blade as beets will bleed profusely ) Slip boiled or baked beets from their skins, slice or chunk, add salt, pepper and butter maybe a smatter ing of fresh dill

When I was a little girl, my par ents and I spent many Sunday afternoons in Lucy and Jimmy Buchko’s kitchen feasting on perogies and cabbage rolls Best of all for me, though, was Lucy’s borscht (“barszcz” in Polish), topped with a generous dollop of thick sour cream I loved the luxurious red beetroot soup With the exception of my dad, however, I was quite alone in my ardour for the ear thy orb. Most family friends avoided beets in any guise; its image was one of pover ty, right down there with the turnip

The beet has struggled up from the dir t onto fine dining tables Common red garden beets, the less common orange Chioggas or candy cane swirled, beets make a delicious prologue to a main course when roasted and shaved over micro greens. Or sliced alter nately with orange and red onion and topped with a splash of lemon and olive oil. At The Inn on the Lake outside Whitehorse, chef Phil McCaffrey prepped a salad with beetroot “snow,” a beautiful setup for beef, roasted rare And I must give a nod to my father’s pickled beets briny, but not vinegar sharp, spiced subtly with clove and cinnamon stick

Recently I stumbled on a recipe for vodka/dill vinaigrette that’s a natural with roasted beets. Whisk 3 tsp minced shallots into 3 Tbsp red wine vinegar. Add 6 Tbsp vodka, 1 Tbsp fresh dill, 2 Tbsp olive oil, honey, sea salt and ground black pepper to taste Lightly toss with chunks of roasted beet Top black rye with smoked salmon or cold beef, or tongue if you dare, garnished with horseradish cream, and you have the perfect “ladies” luncheon. For true indul gence, sip a dry Vodka Gibson (that’s a pearl onion gracing the glass, instead of an olive) on ice.

Beets ser ved warm should be prepared simply Boil unpeeled beets until tender if

But winter’s chill really begs for a steam ing bowl of borscht. I love making it, par tly for the pleasure of trying the many adapta tions on its eastern European roots, as rich as the soup itself. Russian Jews are mainly given credit for bringing borscht to America And the comfor ting soup has even found its way into Russian/American literature In So viet born Lara Vapnyar’s shor t story “Borscht” (from Broccoli and Other Tales of Food and Love), soup is the glue that holds together two struggling Russian immi grants. Sergei comes to America to earn money and fights solitude by hiring a clumsy Russian prostitute. When their sex ual encounter is unsuccessful, the two find comfor t in sharing homemade borscht

If time is tight, I fix quick borscht: one diced onion, two or three cloves minced gar lic, one large minced celery stalk with leaves and one large peeled and diced carrot that has been sweated in oil (1 1 ratio canola/olive) in a large saucepan. To this I add one bunch of roasted, peeled, grated beets, then pour over about four cups of vegetable or chicken stock Salt and pepper to taste, sometimes a pinch of smoked pa prika or dillweed, and that’s that When heated through, half the soup gets a whirl in the blender (not food processor) and re turned to the unblended mixture. I ser ve it steaming (chilled in summer). Topped with a boiled Yukon gold potato and a dollop of good quality yogur t afloat, this is beet borscht, ear thy, sweet and simple

More complex recipes include shredded brisket or beef shank, tomatoes, cubed po tatoes, maybe kielbasa or bacon and cab bage (All cabbage borscht is Mennonite or Doukhobor in origin.)

Lee Bailey’s excellent tome Soup Meals (Clarkson N. Potter, 1989) ser ves up Lamb and Beet Soup southern U.S. style. Substi tuting slow baked thick lamb chops (350ºF oven for about 90 minutes) for beef in any borscht recipe should work

It’s cold It’s rainy Think I’ll curl up with Broccoli and Other Tales and make a com for ting cauldron of borscht I wonder if Lucy still makes borscht.

We know that choice is important to your family. From organics and naturals to vitamins and more, consider us your choice for wellness.

Organic and Natural Choices, to make you smile.

As an event designer for one of Victoria’s well known caterers, I often find it difficult, if not impossible, to escape during busy times of the year. However, it is just those times that I truly need the break and a change of scenery. With Seattle a shor t ferry ride or floatplane hop away, it’s an easy, last minute mini break I can book on a whim. I still mar vel at the simple and elegant “harbour to harbor” travel, and unlike on BC Ferries, one can indulge in a glass of wine during the crossing of the Juan de Fuca Strait My typical and ideal itinerary goes something like this After a morning tramping through Pike Place Market, I try to find a great spot for lunch and settle in for some local fare Up a few flights of stairs and just slightly off the beaten track is “Matt’s in the Market. ” The menu reads as if someone is walking through the fish stalls and produce shops calling out the best of the season: “Fresh halibut! Seared ahi tuna! Oysters!” In fact, while we ordered lunch, we watched the chefs bring up boxes of fresh fish and vegetables from the market below for the evening menu. I swooned over the steaming bowls of tender clams and mussels ser ved with local breads and paired with a crisp Wash ington Sauvignon Blanc The market paella with roasted chicken, chorizo, mama lil’s pep pers, seafood and saffron bomba rice for $16 is a bargain If the food isn’t enough (and it should be), take in the easy ambience of locals lounging over lunch framed by massive arched windows that overlook the market and the iconic Public Market signage

SAM (the Seattle Ar t Museum) is justly well regarded, but I tend to skip the ar t on the walls for the ar t on the plates at the museum’s aptly named restaurant Taste. This cool oasis has a solid local menu and an incredible selection of Washington wines. Flights of wines are paired with miniature dishes that allow diners to compare all the flavours and textures in various combinations. Taste has also chosen to celebrate its growers and producers by de scribing them as par tners listing not only the name of a farm on the menu but full contact information should you be inspired to go directly to the farm From the lunch menu I tried, and loved, the spring frittata with melted spring onions, sweet peas, quillisascut chèvre and spring mix salad for $10 My travel par tner adored his mini organic beef burger with locally made Gouda and frites

After I had spent an afternoon and a small for tune in the shopping district, it was cocktail time. Downtown’s Vessel on Fifth Avenue takes cocktails to a whole new plateau; please don’t go if you’re craving a Smirnoff Ice with a straw; you will be disappointed and most likely dismissed. They make their own tinctures, foams, syrups and bitters and use seasonal fruits and herbs. The attention to craftsmanship means whatever you order, classic or nouveau, will be made just right I tried the Rubicon, a mix of Char treuse, gin, fresh rosemary and lemon, flamed, then served with cracked ice It easily took the edge off too many fitting rooms and not enough perfect fits A shor t savvy menu of smallish dishes like petit croque monsieur with Mornay sauce or sweet corn fritters with sour cream and caviar will tide you over until the main event dinner destination Finding good Spanish food in B C is a challenge so whenever I visit Seattle I head to the Har vest Vine. This time I tried their newest restaurant (actually more of a bar) called Txori (pronounced “chori”). This neighbourhood style gem ser ves genuine pintxos (small bites from the nor thern Basque region of Spain) from an open kitchen. We love to linger over the selection of expected traditions such as tor tilla española ($1.75) and potato onion omelette with aioli A glance at the chalkboard reveals the limited daily dishes like baby eels in hot olive oil or octopus tentacle served on a tart of earthy mushrooms Many of the staff and chefs have travelled to Spain; they often take an extra moment to share the authentic details of the menu and the intriguing cocktails Finish the experience with a flan: a lovely silky version of

crème caramel. There was word of an outside dining area nestled between buildings that was expected to open in the spring.

Another cuisine that is done well in Seattle is Japanese, and Shiro’s in Belltown may just offer the best sushi south of the Strait. I highly recommend ordering omakase style at the bar; this allows you direct communication with master chef Shiro Kashiba and his apprentices. Each ser ving of nigiri or other raw bar delicacy is presented with a description of where the fish is from and a moment of anticipation from the chefs as they await your expression of delight The sushi chefs will pace your meal, ser ve you the best fish and await your signal to conclude the seemingly endless sushi selection

Perfect sushi is the ideal way to end my perfect mini break some new restaurant explo ration, shopping for the perfect sweater, wandering through ar t galleries and sipping a cock tail mid afternoon. And, I’m back in time to be at my desk Monday morning refreshed and ready to go.

P-P-P-Popcorn!

As a boy in the 1950s, I grew up within shouting distance of three neighbourhood movie theatres. In those days, before TV steamrolled the movies, double bills ran for three days at a time Sunday movies were forbidden the clergy linked that prospect with the fall of the Roman Empire but even then, I could take in a dozen movies in a summer week.

I ate popcorn through every cattle stam pede, Apache ambush, pirates’ duel and gangsters’ shootout. Movies and popcorn, in my mind, fused in the ar t of pleasuring. And for me, popcorn became the last word in comfor t food

If Nor th Americans can hardly imagine movies without popcorn, well, maybe we’re the only ones The French think we’re bar barians and would probably prefer their movies with oeufs en cocotte avec foie gras. The Brits sniff at it as an insult to the “cine mer” and whine about Romeo and Juliet ex piring to a soundtrack of chomp, munch, crrrrrrunch

All this is because of a simple miracle of physics There are five kinds of corn and only one that pops These kernels contain residual moisture Heated to the boiling point, it vaporizes, expands and boom blows the kernel apar t.

The less moisture, the smaller the pop. This is the difference between ordinary and “gourmet” popping corns The latter have a carefully controlled moisture content of 11 to 14 per cent, guaranteeing a light, fluffy result with every pop

Popcorn has a history as noble as any Corn was first cultivated in Mexico and Cen tral America 6,000 years ago. Ears of pop ping corn almost that old have been found in bat caves in New Mexico. Thousand year old popcorn kernels have been found in Inca tombs in Peru, treasure they ranked alongside gold and jewels The kernels are, astoundingly, still poppable Historically, methods of popping progressed from fling ing the kernels on glowing coals to heating them on giant clay poppers more than two metres across.

Columbus introduced corn to Europe but, in a lamentable lapse of judgment, deemed popcorn unwor thy of the voyage.

Popcorn stole the show at the first Thanksgiving in 1621, however, when Indian children tossed kernels into the fire and caught the popped corn in their hands It has remained an American passion: Ameri cans chomp their way through a billion pounds a year, and we Canadians probably match them on a per capita basis. I’m cer tainly prepared to do my patriotic duty in keeping up.

Popcorn swept into movie theatres dur ing the Great Depression, when it was the only munchie people could afford Therein began the unstoppable liaison between popcorn and movies When TV came along and thousands of neighbourhood theatres emptied out forever, the snack moved into the home. Remember TV Time popcorn?

High in dietary fibre, with relatively few calories and no cholesterol, the stuff passes with contemporary health gestapo Nutri tionists, who can’t get beyond food as fuel, suggest you eat it stark naked no oil, no butter, no salt, nothing Predictably, they champion the hot air popcorn maker, an ex ercise in austerity born to ser ve as the cen trepiece in a thousand lawn sales.

I’m prepared to pay for prime kernels. Saint Or ville Redenbacher spent 40 years experimenting with 30,000 different pop corn hybrids before coming up with his ex cellent bestseller

Choosing a popcorn maker can be ridicu lously complicated You can fork out more than $5,500 for one state of the ar t popper sold on the Internet. I use an inexpensive stovetop popper, a simple contraption with a manually operated rotating paddle and flip top lid. Follow the rules and it pops every kernel to the max every time. It pops about six quar ts Just enough for one per son with a movie of average length

When the corn is perfectly popped, fluffy, radiant and redolent of corn, I pour it into my popcorn shaped ceramic bowl and salt it to raise my blood pressure about 10 points. Lately, I’ve been washing it down with a tumbler of single malt whisky (fol lowing the Julia Child principle of “every thing in moderation including moderation”) This oddball, deeply gratify ing alchemy romps through the corridors of taste with the resonance of an escaped con vict

Then, while it is still hot to the touch, I lie back, close my eyes and let the movie roll in the theatre of my head, where they still make ’em like they used to.

One man’s paean to the wondrous miracle that is poppable corn.

Winter Squall Strategies

Pie delivered, gourmet to go and Vij’s in Victoria: 3 dine in solutions to help you hunker

January and February are hunker down in front of the fireplace months. What bet ter strategy to avoid the winter squalls outside than to bring a restaurant quality meal into your living room? This month’s Victoria restaurants are not restaurants at all; they are providers of high quality frozen foods, locally and lovingly made, that you can heat up at home A steaming, rich, dark steak and mushroom or steak and kidney pie, a traditional Melton Mowbray pie, Spanish bean casserole these are but a few of the pies and casseroles made by Jenny’s Olde Countr y Fare in Sooke. Attendants at the Sooke Fine Art Show may find some of these dishes sound familiar if they have visited Jenny’s catering concession there. The steam rising from the Spanish bean casserole is scented with her stated “magic ingredients”: tamarind and a dollop of dijon. The body of the casserole is rich in lima beans, onions, toma toes, and red peppers, and is free of soy; Jenny’s pet peeve is vegetarian food that pretends to be meat, when it should simply taste like vegetables Other vegetarian or vegan dishes are on her menu: Fisherman’s Pie, G ardener’s Pie (with lentils), and ratatouille Several dishes, both vegetarian and meat based, are also wheat free The steak pies are definitely not meat or wheat free, but do meet my carnivorous needs The pastry is firm enough to encase the rich sauce, yet still maintains its moistness a coup that I have never accomplished in my own kitchen. The meat pies are all dense with moist, gravy soaked meat a real deal at $11.50 for a 9 inch pie. Another pie, the Melton Mowbray, is a pork pie traditionally eaten cold, which is traditionally something I’d never dream of eating. I was proven to be a fool however; this is an exceptional, flavourful pie with seasoned diced lean pork literally packed in with the flat of a spoon and the arm power of Jenny’s brawny sailor husband This is $7 50 or so, de pending on the retailers, which include Red Barn Country Market, Slaters, and Market on Millstream But wait for it aforementioned brawny retired sailor will make a freezer stock ing delivery to your door if you live in Victoria or the Saanich Peninsula To your door! For just a $50 minimum order! For me as a busy professional with a young family, this is almost as ex citing as winning a dinner for two at Sooke Harbour House. For food with some fancier Saturday dinner options as well as midweek hot meals, go by the Feys and Hobbs catering centre to raid their freezer that’s located just inside their front entrance. It may contain some or all of these meals for one or two: Five Spice Pork and Pear, Lamb Shanks Puttanesca, Stuffed Cowichan Bay Chicken Thigh, Meat Cannelloni, maybe more As with Jenny’s Melton Mowbray pie, I had the lowest expectations for the cannelloni because it sounded, well, plain Again, I was proved to be a fool, as this was actually my favourite dish by a hair, or by a decorative sliver of green onion to be more thematic The cannelloni, for one thing, turned out to be delicate crepes, which encased a surprisingly light mixture of mixed ground meats and cottage cheese Bechamel sauce over top provided an elegant accent, and besides all that, the little “cannellonis” are just plain cute. Five Spice Pork and Pear is a delightful jumble of Michell Farms squash, roast pear, and pork with a few green beans, all in a rich reduction sauce. And the stuffed Cowichan Bay chicken thighs are decorative as well as delicious, with each thigh sliced into five pieces and displayed like a fan,

showing off the dark green filling of spinach and blue cheese Two por tion ser vings range from between $18 and $26

If your foodie star is tarnished because you as a Victoria resident have yet to visit the In dian food mecca in Vancouver known as Vij’s, you need no longer hang your head in shame; you can get it frozen at Charelli’s Delicatessen. Tip: you need to get on their email list so you know when the shipments come in. You then need to drop all other tasks and charge down there before the marauding gourmand hordes in this town wipe out the stock, leaving the slowpokes to wait another month The menu is long, but you can star t your exploration with Coconut and Ginger Green Beans, Punjabi Daal, and Coconut Beef Curry I appreciate how the vegetable dishes are clearly differentiated from the protein ones; they aren’t simply vegetables in the same sauces as the meat dishes The green beans at $11 50 have a herbal aroma and a pleasing crunch that complements the more liquid curries The Punjabi Daal for $13.50 has rich brown baby lentils dotted with the occasional red kidney bean. Heat slips past the satin of the beans and warms the body, resulting in a dish that is

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

down. by Elizabeth Smyth

Jenny’s will deliver traditional Melton Mowbray pie right to your doorstep!

Chef David Feys with a selection of his prepared meals to go.

Amie Shepherd, Carmen Lassooij & Nicole Ingram at Charelli’s with Vij selections

Your own winter torpor is reason enough to pick up or get a delivery of some of these de lectable freezer meals for yourself But I’d like to share with you how meaningful it can be to deliver freezer meals to someone in need My husband had a serious cycling accident a year and a half ago He cracked two ver tebrae and broke both wrists, and was on disabil ity leave for six months I star ted to crumble under the stress and picked up bronchitis Don’t even ask me how our then three year old was being parented, because I can’t re member. Some people sent flowers, which was sweet. But what really helped us out was when people went the practical route and sent casseroles. A casserole dropped off at the door created time for us time to heal, time to be together. It also made us feel mothered and nur tured I actually star ted to feel sad when we got flowers sad that I then had an extra chore to do in setting them up and later cleaning them up, and sad that that $40 could have gone toward something we really needed a meal Using companies like these to help care for an injured friend, a family with a new baby, a senior with mobility prob lems is more than giving a gift of wonderful food it’s a gift of love and profound consid eration.

Ode Countr y Fare, 6596 Sooke Road, (250) 642 2425, allen&jenny@telus net Fey’s and Hobbs Catered Ar ts Inc, 1 845 Viewfield Rd, (250) 380 0390, www.feysandhobbs.com Charelli’s, 2863 Foul Bay Road, (250) 598 4794, info@charellis.com

SOLOMON’S TA STING ROOM

When Herald Street Caffe shut its door with a thump and finality, the empty space it left created a big vacancy sign which was up for a long time despite a number of ill consid ered interludes to make it work again I had always thought the expansion at Herald St Caffe might have been to blame making the space too big and thus too unaffordable for most star t ups. Why not sever off the room with the bar, I thought it would make an ideal Vancouver ‘Salt’ style bar. Well, turns out someone did exactly that Behold, Solomon’s, an eccentric centre of avant garde mixology, obscure beers, charcuterie and odd sounding dinner dishes Definitely, a funky groove going here

The long, narrow room nearly half filled by the bar is inviting in an untailored way, while the constant rattle of the cocktail shaker fur ther aler ts you to its raison d'etre. The three page menu, which is two thirds drink, seals it. Cocktails take center stage and run from the rediscovered South America via San Fran cisco Pisco Sour to the trendy Apollo’s Chariot Two a molecular merge of Metaxa brandy with pomegranate, aged bitters and lemon honey foam Prices are $8 $12 but can rocket up if you substitute liquor from the top shelf Beyond the cocktail there’s an extensive liquor list, a range of Fentimans sodas, a whole section devoted to aperitifs, numerous international craft beers and a basic wine card with wines available in 2 ounce, 5 ounce por tions or the bottle. Foodwise, the menu lists $15 cheese & meat boards: choose three of each such as Tiger Blue from BC, Brie de Mans from Quebec, Spanish Serrano Ham or a Canadian pickled herring roll mop. Small and Large plates seem to incorporate liquor or bitters frequently. Witness the Mussels with West Indian Orange Bitters ($8) or the Beer Brined Duck Breast with Limoncello Vinaigrette ($15) 542 Herald St., Victoria, 250.590.solomons G ary Hynes

CANADIAN FOOD REFERENCE

Bangbelly An evocative Newfoundland word for a rib sticking desser t made from molasses, flour, raisins and salt pork Some people make Bangbelly from lef tover bread soaked in water instead of rice and flour, though using bread makes it more like a bread pudding Occasionally eggs are added Ever yt hing is mixed toget her (including t he fat rendered out of t he pork while fr ying), poured into a greased square or rectangular cake pan, and baked for an hour and a quar ter in an oven It develops a crispy pastr y outside, while t he inside stays "squidgy "

Jenny’s

Solomon Siegel and Vanessa Wright

Bard & Banker Pub

With its opulent Victorian era décor, long black granite bar and carefully prepared gastro pub food, the recently opened Bard & Banker transcends the kitschy, stereotypical English pub But make no mistake: This smar tly appointed drinking hole is as friendly a meeting place as the Dublin version

Located in a former corner bank build ing on Government Street, the pub draws on a cross section of business types, beer lovers and those simply looking for a spot of good times. The expansive, 23,000 square foot space spreads out over two levels and is a labyrinth of nooks and crannies, intimate leather booths and private dining rooms Dark wood, pol ished brass railings, tiled floors, Victorian era chandeliers, five fireplaces and a glass canopy at the entrance complete the styl ized interior.

The menu offers both classic and gas tro pub fare. You might try a 2 For 1 all day special such as Pizza and a Pint for $12.95 or drop in at happy hour for a dozen fresh oysters at a mere $ 0 69 apiece If you’re in the mood for something more gastro nomic, there’s a shor t selection of daily specials that shows off the talent in the kitchen. Pan seared local halibut ($18) struck the right balance, with three prawn and sesame encrusted filets moistened by beurre blanc, a classic French butter sauce, paired up with chanterelle mush rooms, sea asparagus and enough white rice to soak up the buttery sauce The fish was fresh enough to satisfy the most ded icated ichthyologist and was cooked just right to so that the fish flaked but was not at all dried out.

When La Belle Patate owner Nathieu Lott arrived here two years ago he found authentic Quebecois cuisine sadly lacking So, he set out to create something very La Belle Province and decidedly rustic La Belle Patate’s specialties are Montreal smoked meat, poutine and le hot dog (For the uninitiated, poutine is a dish of French fries, dressed with thick beef gravy and topped with fresh cheese curds). Patate’s poutine is a ninja attack of comfor t food that left us utterly satisfied. Patate’s Mon treal smoked sandwich is a fine tuned bal ance of thinly shaven meat (about 6 to 8 ounces) with just a enough fat to gradually soak two thin slices of good rye bread braced on a paper plate with a kosher pickle The chien chaud ($3 99 all dressed) is a steamé revelation and served on a bun with cheese, bacon, and fried onions We washed it all down with a big bottle of spruce beer ($3 25) C Newell

The bar running the length of the west wall is home to some of the best beer spigots from around the world a wide as sor tment of local, Irish and continental ales. Ser vice was friendly, affable and fast thanks to Kirsten our ser ver.

On the heels of the successful Irish Times Pub, Victoria pub impresario Matt MacNeil has done it again a magnificent heritage restoration, which also happens to be a successful pub operation known as The Bard & Banker. G. Hynes 1022 Government Street, Victoria 250.953.9993

Lunch for two with more protein than is socially responsible? $22 dollars.

La Belle Patate keeps the nearly impossible hours of: Monday Thursday, 6am 11pm Friday, 6am 1am Saturday, 7am 1am 250 220 8427 plus they deliver!

Melissa Szewczok and Beau Mirchoff spor t the ‘Bard’ look while ser ving gastro pub quality cooking and perfect pulls of Guinness.

A Pair of Spicy Korean Eateries

Gillie Easdon

Pork Belly and Squid with Yam Noodles. That is almost all I have to say about Moon’s Korean BBQ. This one dish summed up an entire experience that was nothing short of won derful

The vibe at Moon’s is relaxed and sim ple, but they are busy Never theless, staff took the time to be very welcoming and the chef even came out to pay a visit To star t, our ser ver cut perfectly marbled prime rib strips into small pieces with a large pair of scissors and then placed them on the personal barbecue in the middle of our table. The meat sizzled away surrounded by small white bowls of blanched bean sprouts with sesame oil, fish cakes, kimchee, a zucchini medley and other delectables (Korean cuisine typ ically comes with many banchan, or side dishes). We tried Soju, a traditional vodka like spirit made with rice wine that was smooth and married well with the food. I often drink beer with many Asian cuisines; this was a nice depar ture. Also, the lack of carbonation meant more room for the excellent food And now I’m back to the Pork Belly and Squid with Yam Noo dles Conversation ended as we alter nated between staring into the gorgeous mess of food steaming away in front of us and eating. Utterly divine. We rolled our selves home carefully before the immi

SPECIALIT Y FOODS

nent food coma hit. Moon’s Korean BBQ is quite inexpensive, a great place for a din ner out with friends.

Moon’s Korean BBQ, 250 592 4244, 766 For t St., Victoria

I had been keeping a close eye on the construction of this casual but fairly funky eatery at the corner of Fisgard and Dou glas After weeks of pressing my face against the window, Sura has opened to packed houses. It was a pleasure to finally sit down to a plate of beef Bulgogki, lus cious paper thin sliced prime rib eye with authentic Korean barbecue sauce. But it was the Kimchee Jjigae, a spicy kimchee (traditional fermented vegetables and var ied seasonings, the staple of Korean cui sine), tofu and pork soup/stew that sealed my future with Sura It arrived bub bling away in a cast iron bowl. The rich, pungent and smoky flavours of this deli cacy are a tasty way to ward off any blues, winter or otherwise. I returned the follow ing week to enjoy Haemul Sundubu, a spicy soft tofu soup with squid, prawns, mussels and vegetables as well as crisp and savoury house made pork dumplings, both delicious Sura is open for lunch and dinner and has excellent takeaway only lunch specials.

Sura Korean Restaurant, 250 385 7872, 1696 Douglas St., Victoria

patio

LEFT TO RIGHT: Dolsot bibimbop rice topped with 6 kinds of veg, ground beef, egg in hot stone pot Kimchi Jjigae spicy kimchi tofu soup with pork Samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) soup made of whole young chicken stuffed with gin seng, sticky rice, garlic, jujubes and chestnuts at Sura

Agood back up plan to cooking fresh ever y night is t he new What’s For Dinner. A kitc hen a wa y from t he kitchen, you sign up for six to twelve menu se lections, come in and assemble t he meals, then t ake t hem home to s tore in your freezer until one of those hectic nights where ever yone ar rives home at the same time famished and too tired to cook Visit t heir websit e, www whats4dinner ca, for full menus, the soon to come take away dishes, and more informa tion Seems For t St is opening a hip new shop ever y week turning t his avenue of f main street into a central hub of t he city Keep your eyes open for t he new S tree t Level Espresso on For t (near Douglas) Owner and chief barista, Ken Gorden is a veteran of t he bean, hailing from t he well loved Café Fantastico and Habit so you can expect an exquisite cup Read More at eatmagazine ca The Chat eau V ict or ia Hotel and Suites is ushering in t he new year wit h the novel Clive’s Classic Lounge Open ing its doors mid December t he loung e will t hrow its of f icial g rand opening celebrations early Januar y Named af ter hotel owner Clive Piercy t he modern and elegant lounge of fers local beer on tap and sparkles with local ar ti san designed g lass and mir ror pieces, plus a pair of cozy fireplaces to warm up t he winter mont hs wit h If you haven’t visited it yet, check out the new Spinnaker’s Sips in James Bay, a tasting bar from the Spinnakers’ crew No need to bicycle across the blue bridge on a slick and rainy night (at least, t hat’s how this biking Spin nakers’ fan gets over there for her monthly fixes of good beer and a burger), just head over to James Bay for a bite and a sip The retail shop next door carries ongoing deals throughout the year and spotlights some of the best wines from Vancouver Island Wit h Moss S t Mar ke t packed up for the winter, t hose who waited in long lines for Clif f Leir’s baguettes and per fectly Parisien pains aux chocolats will be thrilled to know his new baker y over in t he Doc kside Green is poised to open during the holiday sea son. A wheat silo and hand built wheat grinder are the foundation of what is sure to be a bak er y par excellence The new name will be Fol Epi (meaning wild wheat stalk) and the boules, baguettes, croissants, and schneckes will be as outstanding as always, making Victoria one of the best places outside of Europe to source a heavenly loaf of bread

A few changes are afoot in the Victoria epi curean scene The Reef has been accepted by the Ocean Wise program and has shif ted their menu to highlight local seafood such as Qual licum Bay scallops, BC Spot Prawns, and Al bacore Tuna as well as sourcing local and organic herbs, greens, and vegetables (of ten choosing heirloom), free run eggs, and organic cof fee To boot, their spicy Miss Kitty Hot sauce

(whic h you can buy to t ake home) has no preser vatives ad is made in house Little Piggy has just made your Saturday nights a little eas ier and a lot more delicious by adding their Sat urda y night t ake out menus A f ar cr y from pizza in a cardboard box, this take home nosh features the likes of Smoke Sablefish Croquettes wit h Piment D’Escpelle tt e Rouille and a tradi tional pound cake baked wit h cus t ard f illing Visit their website (www thelittlepiggy com) for full menus t hat change weekly Ken Winches ter has handed over t he reins of Victoria Gin production to Bar king Dog V ineyard of Saanic h The labour of love t hat took many years to per fect a complex recipe involving ju niper, cor iander, orang e, lemon peel, rose petals, and some secret ingredients that cannot be revealed, will be no doubt be meticulously carried on by t he good folks at Barking Dog

Sus t ainable Gas tronomy courses will con tinue through UVic this semester with Don Gen ova ’ s Intro to Food Culture taught on campus, Explor ing Local Foods at t he Thr if ty Food’s Tuscany Village, and Cof fee Talk at the Drum Roas t er Caf é in Cobble Hill Visit t he UVic website and download the calender for more information

Wit h winter in full swing, star t looking ahead to spring by signing up for your Full Circle Gar dening Course, a hands on class beginning in Januar y t hat introduces novices and seasoned gardeners to t he generous variety of organic vegetables t hat can be har ves ted from Octo ber to May Get inspired, then come out in Feb ruar y to Seedy Saturday (see event details in the Concierge section )

Madrona Farm has successfully reached its firs t target fundraising goal congratulation to Natalie and David and the many, many active citizens who ha ve helped This has been an enor mous f eat, but t he next t arg e t is even larg er S t a y tuned to t heir websit e, www madronafarm com, and to ours as well, www eatmagazine ca, to see how you can help protect t his vital farm

This just in: At t he Annual General Meeting held Monda y, N ovember 24t h at Ol ym pic View Golf Club, t he members of t he Island Chef’s Collaborative elect ed Cor y Pelan (Ristorante LaPiola) as their new President Cor y Pelan is Chef and General Manag er at Ristorante La Piola on Quadra s treet Over t he years he has for med s trong relationships wit h local producers and is passionate about food secur ity on Vancouver Island Through fundraising and education Cor y and t he ICC will continue to wor k toward t he vision of a sustainable local food and agriculture system Go to www eatmagazine ca for t he full exective roster or visit www iccbc ca

The Drive is Alive

Vancouver’s Commercial Drive neighbourhood honours its roots while continuing to branch out.

By Tara Lee

It’s mid afternoon at Abruzzo Cappuccino Bar and three old timers sit outside ban tering in Italian, good natured hand gestures punctuating their light hear ted dis cussion. On the other side of the street, three teenagers in dreadlocks and faded cargo pants head for vegetarian fare at Café Du Soleil They move aside to make room for a young mother and her stroller stuffed with a cranky six month old and groceries This is Commercial Drive, a neighbourhood with an exuberant range of cafés, delis and restaurants that reflects the eclectic and vibrant makeup of the community

“ The Drive” star ted off in Vancouver’s pioneer days as a skid road used to transpor t logs to Burrard Inlet It lost its original moniker, Park Drive, in 1911 shor tly after the street became par t of the 1891 Vancouver New Westminster interurban streetcar line. Along with the line came prosperity as entrepreneurs and real estate speculators turned their attention to the area. But the economic slump of the Great Depression put the brakes on. It wasn’t until after World War I I that Commercial Drive and its food culture really came into being Italian immigrants, their cargo filled with Old World recipes and ingredients, moved into the area and introduced Vancouver to its first checkered tablecloth restaurants Vancouver’s own “Little Italy” was born We fell in love with heaping plates of spaghetti with plenty of red sauce at establishments like Sor tino’s, Gondola and Moka Ristorante At Il Corsaro, owner Rino Tessuti kissed women’s hands as they entered, charmingly recommending the tender scallopine alla marsala, while at Arriva, restaurateur Paolo Frau wooed with his prawns in white wine sauce. Another competitor was Tommy O’s brassy New York style eatery spor t ing ceramic animals and marble tabletops where Irish owner Tommy O’Bryan ser ved up osso bucco with fettuccine on the side.

Star ting in the 1960s, immigrants from other par ts of the world were also adding their di verse flavours to the dining menu Restaurants like the Budapest, the Shanghai Palace and the Vietnamese Saigon gave a distinctively global feel to the Drive This ethnic beat was ac companied by the drums of political activism in the 1980s as the neighbourhood found its hip pie calling “[The Drive] transformed from the ‘Little Italy’ of post WWI I to something very multicultural, political and environmentally conscious,” explains Michelle Barile, executive di rector of the Commercial Drive Business Society.

Now, her non profit society ser ves roughly 60 restaurants in its Business Improvement Area or B IA (a geographic area that city council designates as an improvement area). While the Drive and her association are continually seeing new entrants, remnants of the past en dure. Just beyond the B IA’s radius at Frances Street sits Nick’s Spaghetti House, a place that has ser ved as a home away from home for three generations of residents Stepping inside feels like a time warp back to an era when wood panelling, red and white checkered table cloths and good ser vice were the pillars of ambiance Old friends chat at a back table while staff, some who have been working at Nick’s for more than 30 years, mill around at the front

Nick Felicella came from Naples, or the “old country” as he refers to it, in 1952 He liked cooking so much that he launched his own place three years later in 1955. At first, he catered to patrons who wanted diner grease, like hamburgers and fish ‘n’ chips, but slowly, he star ted to concentrate on his own cuisine: baked lasagna, meat ravioli and the hear ty spaghetti and meatballs that have remained house favourites. Those were the days before he was allowed a liquor license and when 75 cents an hour was generous pay Felicella admits that, unlike his wage, his décor hasn’t changed with the times Still, he insists that his patrons want it that way: “Nobody wants me to change They say if I change, they’ll quit coming here ”

Lina Christiano, owner of Caffe Bella Napoli, is someone who has grown up on the Drive along with iconic restaurants like Nick’s She remembers lazy Sundays getting ice cream with her parents, or going to Gallo D’Oro (now Waazubee Café) for a special dinner out She says that the Italian character is “fading,” but she welcomes the changing times. “I think women before would be afraid to go to a coffee bar because it was a man’s world. Now, women come with their kids,” she says.

On a weekday afternoon at the Caffe, a few middle aged women gossip quietly, in no ap parent hurry to leave for the day’s errands For over a decade, this long, narrow coffee shop has been a familiar place for locals, many of whom invite Christiano to their weddings as an honoured family guest She, in turn, rewards their patronage during the Euro and the World Cup, when regular customers get first dibs on prime seats for the games Asked what soccer does for the Drive, she responds: “It’s like being high for a month because it’s fast paced

and exciting. It’s fabulous!” Just the mention of soccer brings an excited rise to her voice. Events like the World Cup and the Car Free Festival (a raucously fun block par ty in mid June) remind us of what makes a great neighbourhood: energy and community. And nothing captures residents’ willingness to suppor t the community like their farmers’ market. “ There is a passion on the Drive and a respect for local food in diverse cultural cooking and growing traditions There are a lot of people generations of families who have been growing [pro duce] in their backyards and they still get together to cook,” says Tara McDonald, executive director of the Vancouver Farmers’ Markets Walk through any of the residential streets off the Drive and you’ll find front and backyards that are rambling vegetable gardens full of tomato vines, lettuces and basil plants The comfor ting smells of home cooking waft from kitchen windows on any given night.

It was only natural then that in July 1995, a rough collective of residents called the Grand view Woodlands Neighbourhood Group, set up the first farmers’ market at the Croatian Cul

LIME chef Masa Aki with salmon sushi, lobster rolls, ahi tuna tataki

tural Centre. That inaugural market had only about a dozen vendors, but since then it has moved to its present location at Trout Lake where approximately 50 vendors sell their wares to an average of 6,000 people each Saturday Well over half these people are from the sur rounding area, and they eagerly shop for blueberries from Mission’s Beckman Berr y Farm and sausages from Pinantan Lake’s Jay Springs Lamb The buzz and energy is reminiscent of the days of yore when markets ser ved as the hub of the community in many European towns The Trout Lake farmers’ market may have to move once again due to Olympic 2010 redevelopment, but McDonald is not concerned. “I’m confident that there will always be a farmers’ market in this neighbourhood. There’s just too much suppor t for it,” she insists. When locals aren’t browsing at Trout Lake, they can be found at the many other grocers on the Drive. East End Store Food Co Op, Drive Organics and Eternal Abundance Organic are just a few grocers that cater to those who are locally and organically minded. Large or ganic chains haven’t yet infiltrated the market; instead, the vibe at a store like Drive Or ganics is unassuming and grassroots Sounds of the Pixies, an American alternative rock band, play in the background while staff are encouraged to come as they are, free of cor porate branded uniforms “It’s pretty easy going and casual If it wasn’t, I don’t think the

neighbourhood would feel as comfor table shopping here,” says Jeff Emmett, assistant manager

Emmett likes the broad cross section of people who frequent the store, something he feels is quintessentially Commercial Drive He also enjoys the dialogue with customers who are always recommending and requesting organic products that even he isn’t aware of. Consumers are so passionate about ingredients that a bakery like Uprising Breads prides itself on fair trade coffee and organic baked goods free of preser vatives and GMO canola oil. Assistant manager Fiona Harrod insists that this “friendly community bakery,” now owned by Don McGinn, has remained popular because it has stayed true to its 1976 co op beginnings (plus, the freshly baked raspberry oatmeal muffins and sourdough pumpernickel bread are heavenly)

A walk nor th from Uprising on Venables is an impressive tour of the culinary spectrum, from lobster ceviche at Havana to injera (flatbread) and lamb stews at Harambe Ethiopian Cuisine Despite all of this plenty, there is still room for new businesses Mary MacIntyre was a local parent and terribly enthusiastic about her neighbourhood, but she still felt that something was missing. “ There weren’t many cafés accessible for parents with strollers. I thought there were a lot of nice coffee places, but not a lot of places for a bite to eat for par ents,” she explains. Her answer: Little Nest, a kid friendly café with a whimsical retro touch and plenty of toys for the tots.

On a sunny day, a group of friends and their infants in strollers sit around outdoor tables and hash out the week over lattes and baguettes of prosciutto, cambozola and housemade fig jam Inside, a mother and son sit at a large centre table, the child busily scribbling on recycled computer paper Meanwhile, a mother with her newborn waits expectantly off to the side with a “Breastfeeding Social” sign in front of her For MacIntyre, this place epito mizes Commercial Drive: “ There’s a very DIY aesthetic Everything is recycled and came off Craigslist. We try to pay attention to things like fair trade and local [ingredients]. We have always been a word of mouth business. I’m reluctant to adver tise and I’m just going with that. I think that’s a specifically Commercial Drive ethos.”

Liisa Ingimmundson at the REEF

Jennifer Boyle, a resident of the Drive since 1996, agrees. As floor manager at Stella’s Tap and Tapas Bar, she estimates that about 70 percent of her clientele are local residents. The place has a definite neighbourhood feel, aided by a no reser vation policy that leaves the door wide open for walk ins “ There are a lot of people on foot because we ser ve very strong beer and a lot of our guests are within stumbling distance,” she jokes Her regulars come for the 40 odd different beers and the welcoming staff, most of whom also call the Drive their home “Most of our staff are local too It’s not something I did on purpose, but many of them live right around the restau rant,” says Boyle

She is especially happy to be par t of a recent wave of establishments that are changing the face of the street once again “We’re re ally excited because Commercial Drive is entering another golden age. It’s a really exciting time on the Drive.” Fears of gentrification and chain invasion (the arrival of Tim Hor ton’s, for example) exist, but many, like Boyle and McIntyre, feel that restaurants like the Reef, Lime Japanese Cuisine and DeVino are all bringing positive new energy to the neighbourhood.

And in some cases, the additions are a continuation of the heritage that makes the Drive’s identity so enduring. Ted Grippo’s grand father owned a business on Commercial, and now he owns Continental Coffee as well as the Dolce Amore Gelateria, which he relo cated next to his wine and charcuterie bar, DeVino It’s a modern, coffee toned room but still with an emphasis on the old fashioned slow eating of his childhood “If this was 20 years ago, I would take you down to my grandmother’s house on Graveley She made her own wine and cheese and cured meat All ar tisan stuff It was a wonderful way of growing up She put her hear t into everything, es pecially food On the table was the best of the best at any given time,” he says

Grippo’s history on the Drive makes him par ticularly proud of its past, present and the future that he hopes to shape with DeVino “I’ve been here my whole life. I know no other place. Before, when people asked me what par t of Italy I was from, I would say the Com mercial Drive par t! I grew up here and I love the changes. Now it’s a melting pot with all sor ts of people. It’s so full of life,” And with those words, Grippo salutes his Italian heritage and the newest members of the tightly knit and ever growing family that makes up Commercial Drive.

Not for profit group Cook the ‘Hood has published t he Commercial Dr ive 2009 cookbook cont aining 25 recipes from local eateries as well as stories about local food secur ity Proceeds will go to providing food asistance to t hose in need 778 858 2779

LODEN HOTEL/V OYA

By Jeremy Ferguson

Ahead of Lumiere/Boulud and Shangri la/Vongerichten in Vancouver’s wave of five star debuts, the new Loden Hotel brings understated glamour from the Los Angeles based KOR Hotel Group, whose ultra chic “urban retreats” include Beverly Hills’ Avalon and Chamberlain West Hollywood

On the edge of the going Coal Harbour district, Loden has 77 luxe rooms and much to like: Enough mar ble to give the Taj Mahal a makeover. A complimentary Espresso machine in the lobby from 6:30 to 9 a.m. Sparkling and still water from a hi tech filtrations system, no plastic bottles. Yoga mats in the guest rooms, (and a yoga channel on TV). And GM Edel Forristal, who’s been seen welcoming guests with coffee spiked with Irish whiskey.

An onyx marble fireplace leads from lobby to bar, an intimate space with cunning cocktails from mixolo gist Jay Jones and ser vers whose décolletage prompts males to lose their memories and order gin when they want scotch

The bar feeds into the 80 seat Voya restaurant and theatre for Marc Andre Choquette, formerly Rob Fee nie’s hard working sidekick at Lumiere The stylish room expresses a geometrical bent with triangular prisms in crystal chandeliers, oversized square mirrors and backlit screens of interlocking circles. The press kit speaks of “sinuous lines.” Indeed, the décolletage is back: The duck isn’t the only organic breast here abouts.

To cavil, who answers for the Techno beat? Thump, thump, thump, three hours non stop. Do thir tysome things with fat wallets really relax with this stuff? Aren’t migraines redundant in a recession?

Choquette’s smallish menu divides into star ters, mains and shared dishes Qualicum Bay scallops ($19) from the Island and poached pork belly redefine 21st century surf and turf, soft and sweet playing off chewy and salty Lamb kibbye ($16) is Middle Eastern tar tare, the raw flesh coarsely chopped and tossed with pine nuts, truffle oil and cucumber in a fusillade of textural nuances

On this occasion, however, anyone familiar with Choquette perfectionism must assume he`s out of town It`s a bad night for fish. Albacore tuna ($28) is plainly past its best before date. And where sablefish ($28), with scallop chorizo sausage and smoked paprika broth, ought to roar, there isn’t a high note on the plate. Meats reveal the kitchen’s bistro soul. Lamb ($30) gets exotic Moroccan dress with sweet Medjool date and cumin puree. Almost cer tain to emerge as Voya’s signature is the shared veal cheek blanquette ($39). The platter brings four veal cheeks perched atop giant pappardelle noodles racily dressed with smoked bacon, onions, carrot and mushrooms It’s a slow cooked, melt in the mouth mar vel Its jus sticks the lips And at $10 per head, it ranks as one of the city’s gourmand bargains Throw in a bottle of Syrah and as the French expression goes, “you know you have eaten ”

Among desser ts, chocolate dome sauced in passion fruit with mandarin orange sorbet (all desser ts, $12) is an easy standout The chocolate delivers, the passion fruit counters and the sorbet is wonderfully tar t The morning after: If it’s high time restaurants upgraded breakfast to dinner standards, Voya does it in

spades with big flavours, ar tfully plated dishes, velvet glove ser vice and jazz, not Techno. The sprawling omelette ($14) spills over with a meld of tastily sautéed mushrooms and cave aged gruyere cheese, with strawberry tomato, endive and arugula salad completing the plate. But don’t stop there: Five bucks buys a “side” of three magnificent bacons from Choquette’s on site smokehouse and charcuterie Do it, and star t the day with a happy mouth

Loden Hotel, 1177 Melville St Tel 604 669 5060 Rooms from $239

The Charcuterie plate at DEVINO

VOYA chef Marc-Andre Choquette with soon-to-be signature dish Veal Cheek Blanquette and Parpadelle Pasta

Moxies Goes for the Gold

First Joeys went to James Beard House in NYC, then Cactus Club ac quired Iron Chef Rob Feenie, Earls sponsored the Culinary Olympics Team Canada and now Moxie’s has signed on as the title sponsor of the Canadian culinary team for the prestigious Bocuse d’Or What’s next, Tim Hor ton’s cooks for the Os cars? Hooters garners a Michelin star? It may be one par t menu development and two par ts P.R., but this latest sponsorship bid also reveals the battle going on be tween upscale casual kitchens.

The Bocuse d’Or is the world’s most es teemed culinary competition and will take place January 27 28, 2009 in Lyon, France Founded more than 20 years ago by leg endary chef Paul Bocuse, widely held as the father of modern cuisine, the Bocuse d’Or occurs every two years amid all the excite ment and drama of an elite spor ting event. Think World Cup soccer with cooking uten sils Twenty four chefs from 24 countries compete for gold, silver or bronze and the respect of the global culinary community The competition, in partnership with SI RHA, the International Hotel Catering and Food Trade Exhibition, draws more than 160,000 visitors over the two day event.

By Murray Bancroft

Competing for Canada come January will be Nanaimo born chef David Wang (chef in structor for the International Culinary School at the Ar t Institute of Vancouver) and one under 22 year old apprentice (ac cording to competition rules), culinary stu dent Grace Pineda Wang has spent the past six years training for and winning an im pressive array of culinary competitions in his bid for the Canadian Bocuse d’Or. Pineda, an accomplished and composed young cook in her own right, assisted Van couver chef Wayne Harris at the Canadian qualifying competition for the Bocuse d’Or in 2006 Wang and Pineda will have five and a half hours to put together two plat ters (one meat, one fish) with three garnishes Anyone who saw the comical Spanish documentary The Chicken, the Fish and the King Crab, which followed chef Jesus Almagro through false star t trials, criticism from his peers and the pressure cooker of the 2007 competition, knows chef Wang and his team will need everyone in their corner, including all of Moxie’s finan cial and public relations resources Every one, er, except perhaps the delegation from Hooters

Cobblestone Wine Bar was given gold in the Best All B C Wine List category at the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival's B.C. Wine List Competition held in early October The competition, spon sored by Eat Magazine, examined each competing restaurant's commitment to BC wine with criteria including the restaurant's wine philosophy, legibility and accuracy of the wine list and the overall commitment to the promotion of B.C. wines.

Nestled in the hamlet of Naramata, a quiet community with a big name, Davies has no prob lem selecting the best of the best the Naramata Bench is home to a number of award win ning wineries While the wine bar takes advantage of local fare, they also ensure they offer 95 per cent B.C. wines, with a minimal selection of international wines.

As Norm Davies, proprietor of the winning establishment explains, "Why travel to the Nara mata Bench to sample something from another country?"

Davies attributes his wine selection to the fact Cobblestone is the oldest wine bar in the Okanagan Valley. He and his staff have invested years of careful consideration when selecting wines so patrons are introduced to high quality vintages at their peak

And, thanks to their by the glass offerings, visitors have the oppor tunity to pair wines with fresh, local foods including fresh baked breads, cheeses, pâtes, savories and vegetarian of ferings Davies notes executive chef Thomas Render seasonally creates a menu unique to the world class wine selection seasonally. By Holly Miyasaki (winner’s list at eatmagazine.ca) 3625 1st St , Naramata, BC, 250 496 6808, www naramatainn com

Norm Davies, owner/general manager of Cobblestone Wine Bar, displays his award for Best Overall B.C. Wine List. Photo by Kristi Patton

Cobblestone Wine Bar Wins Gold for the Best All B.C. Wine List

The Quest: Asian Noodles

When I crave noodle soup, I need it now I don’t want to drive I don’t want to walk my fingers through the Yellow Pages. In shor t, I don’t want to think. And, often, I prefer to slurp alone.

In a city saturated with noodles, that’s a tough call. As well, if, like me, you find that a rambling Asian menu strains your noodle, you can, of course, stick to safe and sound won ton noodle doused with sinus clearing chili But it’s fun to stray a bit

You can’t argue with two Vancouver Chinese chestnuts: Hon’s on Robson Street and in Chinatown for any of its soups and Legendary Noodle on Main Street for its hand made noodles. Or any one of many fine noodle places in Richmond

I offer three westside spots near me that satisfy both crave and comfor t zone yet offer something a little out side the normal noodle box

Unless it is the Noodle Box, South East Asian Noodle Bar (1867 W. Four th Ave.). Riding the raves of two Victo ria locations, a Kits site opened two years ago. My chilly thumbs go way up for the Thai Tom Yum soup ($9 $11). Excellent quality prawns, chicken, pork, tofu, alone or in combination, smother noodles flecked with fresh from

Granville Island Market peppers, sprouts and Chinese greens The whole lot slides into a big, hot and sour pool spiked with lime and heat, ranging from wimpy mild to suicide hot. I settle for medium, a good kick up from “western medium.”

At Mandala Iki Asian Bistro (2394 W Four th Ave ), dubbed “healthy Asian” (it offers very good brown rice sushi), I try the vegetable pho ($8) Silky rice noodles float in a delicate broth, topped with tender firm red pep per, crisp snow peas, baby bok choy, mushrooms and as paragus. The usual pho garnish Thai mint, hell hot tiny peppers, lime and sprouts are super fresh.

Kudos, hands down, go to Lin’s Chinese Cuisine and Tea House (1537 W Broadway), a recently opened eatery for housemade noodles, sliced thin or thick or turned into little dumplings Hot and sour soup ($5 99) meets the noodle in an ear thy not too vinegary potage Tan Tan noodles ($6.99), chewy yet feather light, float in peanut sauce thinned with vegetable broth, made tangy with Chi nese pickle. Xiao Long Bao (XLB) features those little dumplings ($4.99 for six) plumped with soup and a knob of minced pork One nibble releases a burst of delicious, clear (hot!) broth Ah! Comfor t and joy in one bite

Nothing soothes chilled bones, runny noses and frosty toes like a gigantic bowl of tasty, tangy Asian noodles

J Pegg

T r a c e y K u s i e w i c z

Joy and comfor t: Lin’s owner Shiao Miu with a big bowl of tan tan noodles

Vancouver News

More of what’s not t han what’s hot rolled across my desk at t his writing I needed a cr ys tal ball to predict t he Vancouver’s res t aurants’ comings and goings in t he year ahead Wit h suc h a volatile economic climate we at EAT wish ever y one in the BC food/wine industr y the ver y best for 2009

Eleven year old Trafalgars (2603 West 16th Ave) continues to dish it out to hungr y, happy folk . On a recent visit a packed house tucked into chef Chris Moran’s poached eggs on po tato latke (back bacon, spinach or salmon op tions), t he twice baked baked polent a and stilton souf flé, or lamb and Oka cheese burger Wines are available in 2 oz tas ters, glass, or half liter Sweet Obsessions, the baker y/café next door, dispatches t he desser ts Devotees of homey butter tar ts and apple pie will love t he pecan cranberr y tar t or flaky apple crostada Star ved for a new wave Greek eater y in Kits, we headed immediat el y to Piat o (Greek for “plat e”) 1835 Wes t 4t h, for t he bois t erous opening We drank in t he decor (dark wood floors and white washed walls) and a fresh not too resined re tsina wine. Dishes are moder n classic Greek salad comes wit h a thick wedge of feta atop rosy, red and vivid yellow toma toes tumbled wit h chunks of English cucumber There’s a garlic ky white bean, basil and feta hummus, barley rusk “bruschetta” and new ren ditions of Greek favourites like moussaka and roast lamb Resurrected, too, is a wood burning oven, plas tered over by t he previous tenants Dr inks lis t include specialty Greek wines and ouzos Pr ices are in line wit h many Greek

restaurants, but por tions smaller (or sensible?) All in all t hings looked promising

As this goes to print t he 46 seat/8 bar stool R.TL (Regional Tasting Lounge) 1130 Mainland S treet in Yaletown is on t he cusp of t hrowing open its doors The t heme here? Small plat e sharing from t hree 3 distinct world regions BC will always be featured Wine list includes 4 4 by t he glass

Au Petit Chavignol, is slated to open t his or next mont h. Raclette, house made terrines, and Rieslings figure into t he fine cheese selection in t he 40 seat restaurant connected to t he newest les amis du Fromage location (845 East Hast ings) We were t hrilled to hear charming, ultra prof essional Anne tt e Ra w linson, (“C”, Diva, 900 West) is general manager

If budg e t and belt need tight ening, af ford able, healt hy food shopping has never been be tt er in our burg The W int er Mar ke t (www eatlocal org for dat es, hours and ven dors) is alive and well at t he Wise Hall, featur ing org anic veggies, ar tisanal c heeses and breads, local meat and fish

Fine food lovers can buy t he best of t he best from t hree U rban Fare locations (Yale town, Coal Harbour and now, next to t he Shangri la Hotel, 1133 Alberni) Prices may appear larger t han t hey actually are One six buck wrap or ciabatta sandwich fills a rumbling tummy can be shared Cheeses? A little goes a long way when t hey are t his good (Tr y the Austrian se lection) Chec k out fresh meats and deli de lights Shoppers will love U rban Fare’s own products if t he balsamic vineg ar indicat es house brand quality

Local hotel inspiration for crime novel

What better way to dispense with the winter doldrums than to get down and intimate with a juicy crime book. Set during the chaotic launch of a luxurious new boutique hotel in Los Angeles, the ever thickening plot ricochets from revelation to head spinning twist, as the book’s hero, hotel manager Trevor Lamber t (a naive Canadian from Vancouver), gets entangled in a TMZ Hollywood style web of deceit But what makes this read extra delicious is the humour. Stir the plot pot and you’ll find a dead celebrity, an overbearing mom, a wannabe actor detective, a sleazy hotel owner and a deceitful publicist. Anyone who has worked in the hospitality industry will know there is knowledge behind this cast of characters and behind the scenes hotel detail That’s because author Daniel Craig knows of what he speaks Craig was General Manager of the Opus Hotel in Vancouver, before moving to L A and then onto Montreal where he presently is manager of the Opus Hotel Montreal G Hynes Murder at Hotel Cinema, Author: Daniel Craig, Publisher: Midnight Ink ISBN 978 0738711195

Marathon Man

Vancouver chef, food stylist and consultant Murray Bancroft shares a page from his daybook starting at daybreak by transporting precious foodstuffs across the border to San Francisco and finishing at midnight with a well-deserved (and legal) cigar It’s a tale of one great city market, one spectacular wine dinner and how he made it out alive

“You gotta have a system or this market will swallow you whole.” Wise words overheard on a late spring trip I made Stateside last year. He wasn’t talking about stocks, but the San Francisco Farmers’ Market, swarming with roving locavores, each with his or her unique system of toting, bar tering (“split that pound of ar tisan butter?”) and crowd navigating wor thy of a market floor anywhere in the world Herewith, a recounting of the 20 hour marathon that resulted in a memorable Pacific Nor thwest wine dinner

The Journey

4:00 a.m. After a rude awakening in Vancouver, it’s time to pack a suitcase and head for YVR

6:00 a m I’ve cleared U S customs (whew!) with said suitcase containing: Osoyoos Larose 2001, two Thomas Haas dark chocolate bars, two B C honeycombs, one jar of my home made grape mostarda, one cheese each from Farmhouse, Poplar Grove and Moonstruck Organic, two boxes of Raincoast Crisps, one chef ’s knife, sharpening steel, microplane grater and various, albeit limited, personal effects (including a couple of cigars, clearly marked “Honduran.”)

9:30 a.m. Thanks to tailwinds, we touch down 45 minutes early in San Francisco I may need it. I meet up with Mike Parker, an old friend and ad exec who has recently relocated to the Bay Area He’s hosting tonight’s Pacific Nor thwest wine dinner for his wine club, and we’ve got shopping to do

The Prep

11 a.m. To market to market to buy a fat salmon belly. Or not. We learn the local fishery has suddenly shut down and what remains is $30 a pound Wild Alaskan Coho it is Noon: B C Kushi oysters are a hot commodity and the Hog Island Oyster Bar will par t with only a dozen (Note to self: next time, FedEx)

12:30 p m “ The strawberries are going to save us,” notes the guy behind Dir ty Girl Produce, referring to the late star ting season And they save us as well; they prove to be the most delicious, sweet and succulent thing going Baby arugula and fingerling potatoes are procured a couple of stalls down.

12:45 p.m. Some rather large cuts of organic beef are ordered from Prather Ranch Meat

Foodie ground zero: The Ferr y Building in San Francisco

G a r y H y n e s

Company, and a pot of truffle butter from Far West Fungi ends our hunting and gathering. 1:00 p.m. Back to Hog Island to pick up the chilled oysters and a cave aged gruyere and fromage blanc grilled cheese sandwich for the road 3:00 p.m. No time for a siesta, it’s into the kitchen to prep for the dinner and open our bot tles

The Dinner

6:00 p.m. Guests begin to arrive (some with their Yahoo security passes still on). There would be 17 club members plus one enthusiastic UC Davis oenology student. We head out side for radishes with sea salt and charcuterie leading into oysters with sambal cucumber mignonette finishing just as the sun sets behind the Burlingame Hills A Blue Mountain Chardonnay poured by one of the members gets some happily surprised reactions 7:00 p m Slow cooked salmon is ser ved with arugula, followed by grilled striploin with fingerling potatoes, asparagus and truffle butter We finish with cheese plates Meanwhile, the remaining 20 odd wines are presented, pitched and poured by their owners.

11:00 p.m. Once the last drop has been lapped up and the final crumbs swept away, it’s time to cast votes for the winning wine of the night. In a roomful of dot coms and ad execs, the pitches are wor thy of the Giants. Among some heavy hitters like a 200 3 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington Walla Walla Valley or a rare 1999 Cayuse Vineyards Syrah, my 2001 Osoyoos Larose is victorious (a 2003 Osoyoos Larose purchased from Bishops restau rant in Vancouver by a club member was an interesting foil) Second place is awarded to the 2005 Blue Mountain Chardonnay

Midnight: The Limovan depar ts with our well lubricated guests (some of whom continue on to put a dent in another personal cellar) But one lingering guest (founder of beer com among other things) sets up a ver tical beer tasting from one of his microbreweries. Talk about a rapper at a rock concer t. Honestly though, I have always found that a spot of beer or bubbles after wine does refresh the palate. Honduran stogies … not so much.

Ferr y Building Marketplace, One Ferr y Building, 415 693 0996, ferr ybuildingmarket place.com

Acme Bread Company, Ferr y Building, 415-288-2978 Pastries and ar tisan breads that are as memorable as the name Boulettes Larder, Ferr y Building, 415 399 117 7 An absolute favourite for hard to find ingredi ents like rizo nero (Italian black rice) or freeze dried yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit)

Culinaire Antiques, Ferr y Building, 415 576 1700 Rare finds from antique Mezzaluna knives to a vintage Madeleine form to give some character to your kitchen Far West Fungi, Ferr y Building, 415 989 9090 Wild mushrooms without the foraging and value added essentials like truf fle butter and truf fle salt Hog Island Oyster Company, Ferr y Building, 415 391 7117 Sit down for raw or baked oys ters, or salads like their red romaine with shaved radish, parmesan cheese and boquerones with creamy lemon dressing Lulu Petite, Ferr y Building, 415 362 7019 Af ter a run along the Embarcadero seawall, step in for a Meyer lemon and orange blossom lemonade or pick up a crispy chicken sandwich and baby beet salad to go Prather Ranch Meat Company, Ferr y Building, 415 3910420 Organic, sustainable and pas ture raised meats

Slanted Door, Ferr y Building, 415 861 8032 A long standing favourite, the Slanted Door al ways delivers with Vietnamese flavours and a smar t wine card with lots of Riesling and Grüner Velt liner Healthy, refreshing dishes like Manila clams with Thai basil, pork belly and chilies or grilled prawns with cellophane noodles and Imperial roll make it hard to get a table Thankfully, a second location of their to go branch Out the Door has recently opened in Westfield Centre Bin 38, 3232 Scott St , 415 567 3838, bin38 com A good bet for happy hour, with its best friends backyard vibe The young, fun crowd looked as though many had already spent several happy hours before we arrived Hotel Vitale, 8 Mission St., 415 278 3700, hotelvitale.com Check in at Hotel Vitale where the fif th floor terrace looks over the Ferr y Building and Bay Bridge Cross the street and bring back a brunch of Andante Dair y cheese, bread from Acme Baker y, strawberries and some well chilled Prosecco for some of the best alfresco dining in town Pacific Catch, 2027 Chestnut St and various locations, 415 4 40 1950, pacificcatch com Check out one of their three sustainable seafood restaurants and snack on crispy oysters and jalapeño tar tar sauce with an even more sustainable cold microbrew SPQR, 1911 Fillmore St., 415 7 71 7 7 79, spqrsf.com Rustic and ver y tasty dishes like deep fried Brussels sprouts and grilled pork ribs with fennel and rosemar y pair well with homemade pastas like spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, pecorino and chilies

Spruce, 3640 Sacramento St., 415 931 5100, sprucesf.com Located in the toney neighbour hood of Persidio Heights, but don’t let its well heeled looks fool you A page on the wine card reads under $50 and of fers some real value Ditto the lunch or dinner eat anywhere in the room bar menu (you can take the boy out of the bar but not the bar out of the boy) with upscale classics like Caesar salads and burgers In the dining room, the charred Berkshire pork tenderloin is enough to restore honour to an of ten ho hum cut Do look for a banquette the white tableclothed round we sat at was about as sure on its feet as Lindsay Lohan on a Friday night

Food that puts you in the mood...

Sumptuous and sensual dinners for two, ready to serve. Tempt yourself —

Sumptuous and sensual dinners for two ready to serve , s and sensual dinners for two eady .com feysandhobbs urself —

Murray Bancrof t’s San Francisco Pic ks

Un Dîner Québécois

A meal steeped in tradition and rich in regional and seasonal ingredients.

by Nathan Fong

BELOW:

BOTTOM LEFT:

Ragoût de Pattes et Boulettes. RIGHT : Edie McCaffrey and Marguerite Lamothe. Marguerite inspired Nathan’s stor y and lent us her wonderful Tourtière recipe.

CIDER. FAR RIGHT: Maple Tart. Photography by Tandy Sean Arnold

From chic Montreal and its cosmopolitan cuisine to Quebec fer tile

b o u r

f a r m l a

in Île d’Orléans, to th wonderful seafood bounties of the Quebec Maritime region of G aspésie, this province is brimming with culinary plenty

Fat lobes of foie gras, plump magret breasts, cheeses, fresh succu lent scallops and buttery rich lobsters the place is a gourmand paradise.

To honour Quebec 400th anniversary this p E AT offers this small c cherished regional recipes from inland to the waters of the Gulf of St Lawrence Bonne fête!

Warm Mulled Cranberry-Apple Cider

Quebec is renown for its cranberry and apple har vests and their wonderful by products, such as the famed ice cider This warm spiced drink is perfect for those ultra cold and snowy Quebec winters Ser ves 6 to 8

Strips of zest from 2 oranges

24 oz cranberry juice

24 oz apple cider or juice

2 cinnamon sticks, about 4 inches each 6 whole allspice

8 whole cloves

2 whole star anise pods

2 pieces vanilla beans, about 2 inches each

Remove the zest from the oranges in strips about half an inch wide Set aside 2 long strips Cut the remaining strips in 6 to 8 pieces, about 2 inches long Cut a small slit in each so that the zest can be slipped onto the rim of a glass as a garnish

In a non reactive saucepan, combine the juices. Place the 2 long orange zest strips, the cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise and vanilla bean pieces into a small square of double cheesecloth and tie up with string to make a small bundle. Add to juice and place over medium high heat, bringing to almost a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 min utes

Ser ve with a piece of the zest on the rim of each glass as a garnish For an alcoholic boost, add a shot of brandy to each glass

Tourtière

Nothing showcases a French Canadian celebration like the traditional rich meat pie called tour tière Recipes vary from region to region throughout the province, from traditional wild game fillings of venison and grouse, pork and beef inland to seafood such as salmon and shellfish in areas close to the Quebec Maritimes Every family has its own “original” recipe, passed down through generations, some with potato, some with none This is an adapted recipe from my dear friend Margarite Lamothe, who has been making her family recipe for decades. Makes one 9 inch pie of 8 ser vings.

1 large russet potato

1 pound ground pork

1/2 pound ground veal

1/2 pound ground beef

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cloves

Anteadote

“Come oh come, ye tea-thirsty restless ones—the kettle boils, bubbles and sings musically.”

-Rabindranath Tagore

Tea is the perfect antidote to chilly weather and winter colds and flu. Visit www.silkroadtea.com to find out more.

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp ground sage

1/2 tsp celery salt

1/2 tsp fresh ground pepper

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup water

2 recipes Flaky Pastry (see following)

1 egg yolk

Boil potato in its jacket until cooked. Peel and mash; set aside.

In a large saucepan, add the meat, garlic, onions, spices and water. Cook over medium high heat until bubbling, stirring to break up meat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes or until almost no liquid remains Mix in potatoes and add additional seasoning to taste

Let cool, stirring occasionally (mixture will thicken as it cools) Roll out and line plate with pastry Fill with meat mixture Roll out remaining pastry Brush pie rim with water; cover with top pastry and press edge together to seal Trim and flute Mix egg yolk with 2 tsp water; brush top pastry. Cut steam vents. Bake in bottom third of a 400ºF oven until hot and golden brown, about 50 minutes.

Flaky Pastr y

Makes 1 double crust 9 inch pie.

3 cups all purpose flour

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup each cold butter and lard, cubes

1 egg

2 tsp vinegar

Ice water

In a bowl, mix flour with salt. Using pastry cutter or two knives, cut in butter and lard until coarse crumbs with larger pieces

In liquid measure, beat egg with vinegar, add enough ice water to make 2/3 cup Drizzle over flour mixture, tossing with fork until ragged dough forms Divide and press into two discs Wrap and refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes (This can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3 days )

Ragoût de Pattes et Boulettes

This dish truly represents the Quebecois farmer Rustic and hardy, the rich and simple stew made with pigs’ trotters and simple meatballs is a traditional winter dish ser ved typically with mashed potatoes Ser ves 8

Des Pattes:

3 lbs pigs’ feet or hocks, skinned and cut in half

1 Tbsp coarse salt

1/2 tsp each ground cinnamon, ground cloves, nutmeg and black pepper

1/2 tsp each dried thyme and savoury

3 Tbsp canola oil

2 onions, chopped

2 Tbsp butter

1/2 cup toasted flour (see below)

1 cup cold water

Boulettes:

1 1/2 lb ground pork

1/2 lb ground beef

2 slices of country style or French bread, cut into half inch pieces and soaked in half a cup milk

1 medium onion, chopped

2 Tbsp d’herbes salées (salted herbs; see below)

1 egg, beaten

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp ground cloves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Wipe the pig’s feet with paper towel and place into mixing bowl. Mix together the spices, salt and pepper; sprinkle the whole mixture over the pigs’ feet and rub well to marinate.

In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium high and add the pigs’ feet in small batches, browning for about 5 minutes, turning occasionally Remove to a platter and re

peat until all are browned. Set aside.

In the same pan, heat the butter over medium heat and sauté the onions till golden, about 5 minutes Place the pigs’ feet back into the pan, cover with cold water and bring to a boil

Reduce heat to simmer and cook until tender, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours, skimming occa sionally; the meat should pull away from the bone Add more liquid if necessary, to keep the feet covered

While the feet are cooking, heat the oven to 375ºF and mix together all the ingredients for the meatballs. Shape into 2 inch meatballs and place them on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes.

Thir ty minutes before the feet are cooked, add the meatballs to the pigs’ feet stew and continue to simmer. Before ser ving, remove the meatballs and feet with a slotted spoon, leaving the liquid in the pan Skim and remove excess fat from the liquid Debone the feet, reser ving the meat Reheat the broth in the same pan Whisk together the flour and water until well blended

Slowly whisk in the flour mixture into the broth until well blended; bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes

Place the meat back into the broth, reheat and ser ve with mashed potatoes.

Toasted Flour: Toast flour by adding all purpose flour to a dry heavy skillet over high heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until the colour becomes golden, about 5 minutes. Remove and pour flour immediately into a mixing bowl to avoid overcooking.

Salted Herbs

Makes 2 1/2 to 3 cups

1/2 cup chopped fresh chives

1/2 cup chopped fresh savoury

1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley

1/2 cup chopped fresh cher vil

1/2 cup grated carrot

1/2 cup chopped celery leaves

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/4 cup coarse salt

In a medium bowl, combine the herbs Layer one inch of the herb mixture in the bottom of a crock or glass jar and sprinkle with some of the salt Repeat layers until all of the herb mix ture and salt are used. Cover and refrigerate for 2 weeks. Drain off accumulated liquid and pack herb mixture into sterilized jars. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Maple Tart

One of the most popular desserts in La Belle Province, maple tart is to Quebec what the but ter tar t is to the rest of Canada As with most Quebecois recipes, maple tar ts vary from gooey fillings to thick rich cream ones. The flavour and colour of the tar t will vary also de pending on the quality of the maple syrup used.

This wonderful desser t is from Mar tin Picard’s famed Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, cer tainly one of my favourite carnivore haunts in the city! Makes two 9 to 10 inch tar ts.

2 cups maple syrup

3/4 cup whipping cream

3/4 cup butter

1 1/2 Tbsp all purpose flour

4 large eggs

1 recipe Flaky Pastry (see above), or frozen pie shells

Combine the maple syrup and cream in a medium saucepan and heat over medium high heat; bring to a boil. Add the butter and stir until melted, then stir in flour. Set aside, keep ing slightly warm Preheat oven to 375ºF

Roll out pastry and cut two rounds to line the bottom of the tar t moulds (with removable bottoms) Blind bake the empty tar t shells by carefully lining the shell with parchment paper or foil and filling with uncooked rice or dried beans, with enough foil overhang to be able to remove Bake for 15 minutes or until golden Remove paper/foil/beans and set aside.

Reduce oven to 300ºF.

In a bowl, lightly beat eggs, then add to the maple syrup mixture and stir well to mix. Place the tar t shells on baking sheets and divide the maple mixture between them. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the filling has set at the centre and there is a slight bubble at the edge of the moulds Let cool completely before removing the tar t bottom Ser ve with whipping cream

a celebration of the season.

Andouille Sausage & Chicken Stew

This is the ticket to chase away winter chills. Galloping Goose’s andouille sausages permeate the stew with a spicy and smoky flavour. Ser ves 8

Galloping Goose Smoked Andouille Sausages, 4

*Farmhouse Poultr y bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed, 8

Garlic cloves, minced, 2 Sweet onion, chopped, 1

Dried oregano leaves, 1 tbsp Sweet smoked paprika, 1 tsp Sea salt, 1 tsp

Canned plum tomatoes, 28 oz can Chicken broth, 1 cup

BC Hothouse bell peppers, coarsely chopped, 3

Lightly coat a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven with oil and set over medium heat. Add sausages and cook until evenly browned, 5 min. Remove from pan. Add chicken (in batches don’t crowd pan) and cook until golden, 3 to 4 min per side, then remove from pan

Add garlic and onions to fat in pan. Sprinkle with seasonings and cook until softened, 8 to 10 min. Meanwhile, cut sausages into chunky pieces. Drain tomatoes (as best you can don’t be too fussy) and place in a bowl Using your fingers, coarsely crush When onions are soft, increase heat to high. Pour in broth. Scrape up and stir in any brown bits from pan bottom they’re ver y flavourful. Stir in crushed tomatoes and return chicken to pan Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 15 min. Add sausages and peppers. Pan will be ver y full but volume deflates as peppers cook. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peppers are soft and chicken is falling off the bone, 15 to 20 min.

Spoon chicken pieces into a bowl. Let cool, then separate meat from bones into chunky pieces. Stir into stew. Dish up with rice and a selection of garnishes, such as black olives, hot chili flakes and chopped cilantro.

*Island Farmhouse Poultr y is Island grown chicken from Cowichan. Sticking to its local roots, Farmhouse Poultr y is available through local grocers all over Vancouver Island To find the location nearest you, log onto their website at: farmhousepoultr y.ca/wheretobuy.htm

Cold Comfor

t: “When grey days and winter chills set in, I turn to the kitchen for comfor t. I crave hear ty, feel-good food to cozy up with and look forward to an afternoon of puttering about in there. And nothing banishes winter blues like the heady aromas of Andouille Sausage & Chicken Stew, fluffy biscuits and Deep Chocolate Cake (made with beets!) that fill the house.”

RECIPES & ST YLING by JENNIFER DANTER

Big Savour y Biscuits

These are a must for dunking into saucy stew and a little more exciting than the usual hunks of bread. Flavoured with Little Qualicum’s piquant Rathtrevor cheese, green onions, fresh thyme and a hint of orange, they’re completely irresistible. Makes 8 to 10 biscuits

Anita’s Organic all purpose flour, 2 cups Baking powder, 3 tsp Scallions, green par t only, chopped, 2 Finely grated orange peel, 1 tsp Chopped fresh thyme, 1 tsp Sea Salt, 1/2 tsp

Avalon unsalted butter, well chilled, 1/4 cup Little Qualicum Rathtrevor cheese, grated, 1 cup Island Farm 10% cream, 1 cup Island Gold organic egg, 1

Stir flour with baking powder, scallions, orange peel, thyme and salt Cut butter into small cubes Using your fingers, work in butter until mixture is crumbly Stir in cheese

Whisk cream with egg, then pour over flour mixture Using a fork, gently stir just until combined. Turn onto a floured surface and gently knead a few times until dough comes together.

Using your hands, press and push dough into a circle about 1/2 inch thick. Cut into 8 to 10 wedges Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper Brush tops with more cream, if you wish

Bake in preheated 425F oven until golden, 10 to 15 min

Deep Chocolate Beet Cake

Beets in chocolate cake? You bet in fact the dark chocolate and sweet beets are very com plimentary together. This reminded me of bir thday cake I grew up with and my immediate reaction was to pour a tall glass of cold milk. Ser ves 8

Red beets, medium size, 2 Vanilla extract, 1 tsp

Unsweetened baker’s chocolate, 2 squares (2 oz)

Anita’s Organic all purpose flour, 1 cup

Baking soda, 1 tsp Salt, 1/2 tsp

Dark brown sugar, lightly packed, 1 cup

Island Gold organic eggs, 2 Vegetable oil, 1/2 cup

Line bottom of a 9 in. round baking pan with parchment and butter sides. Boil unpeeled beets until tender and reser ve about 1/2 cup cooking liquid. Cool beets, then peel. Finely chop and puree in a blender. Add enough reser ved beet water to make it whirl. You don’t want a soupy mixture just a thick puree Measure out 1 cup Stir in vanilla

Melt chocolate in a double boiler Stir flour with baking soda and salt Using an electric mixer, beat sugar and eggs until fluffy, about 5 min Beat in oil until evenly mixed, then beat in melted chocolate. Add beet mixture and beat until thoroughly mixed. Gradually beat in flour mixture.

Turn into prepared baking pan and smooth top. Bake in centre of preheated 375F until a cake tester inser ted in centre comes out clean Check for doneness after 30 to 35 min Cool in pan on a wire rack Turn out onto a plate and spread with Chocolate G anache Frosting (see below) or dust with icing sugar

Chocolate Ganache Frosting: Chop 100 g bar of dark chocolate into small pieces and place in a bowl. Bring 1/4 cup Island Farm 35% whipping cream just to a boil, then pour over chocolate. Let stand 1 min., then whisk until chocolate is completely melted. Whisk in 1 tbsp Avalon organic butter. Let stand, at room temperature, whisking occasionally, until mixture is thick enough to spread over cake

What’s in Season

This is the best time of the year for flavourful citrus fruit, so enjoy the peak season for oranges, tangerines, grapefruits, tangelos, mandarin oranges and clementines.

Leeks can be used in salads, soups, stews and chowders Their flavour is more subtle and less pungent than onions Be sure to wash leeks thoroughly after slicing them lengthwise, as their compact leaves often retain grit and dirt. To release embedded grit, stand leeks in cool water for 10 minutes

There are many types of cabbage available to inspire robust winter meals, in cluding red cabbage, savoy cabbage, green cabbage and Chinese or napa cabbage Try holishkes (cabbage leaves stuffed with ground beef, onion, rice, eggs and spices baked in a sweet and sour sauce) Make colourful red cabbage cole slaw or add cabbage to casseroles and stir fries Conjure up memories of Maggie and Jiggs with a heaping plate of corned beef and cabbage

yummy create something today.

At Skanda, we empower you to discover

This hear ty, slow cooked meat and seasonal vegetable stew is traditionally made in an ear thenware dish and slow cooked over hot coals, but feel free to slow cook it on the stovetop in an enameled cast iron pot Ser ves 8 to 10

Meats

1

Place meat and chickpeas in a large pot

water to cover and 1 tbsp. salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer, skimming off scum as it rises to the surface until broth is clear. Add leeks, carrots, parsley, turnips, squash, chilies and cloves Cover and simmer for 2 hours In a separate pot, cook cabbage barely covered with salted water with chorizo and garlic sausages (Pierce sausages with a fork so they don’t burst.) Simmer 1 hour. Add cabbage, sausage, broth and caraway seeds to meat pot. Sauté onions and garlic in but ter. Add to pot with potatoes, cauliflower, spinach and pepper. Cover. Simmer for 30 minutes until potatoes are tender Add cinnamon and saffron and simmer 10 min utes

1033 Fort Street, Victoria Tel: (250) 475-2632 www.skanda.ca/yummy

COMOX VALLEY

The venerable Heriot Bay Inn [Quadra Island, 1 888 605 4545, www heriotbayinn com] is now owned by a group of Quadra Islanders who will be keeping the Inn and Herons Dining Room open all year Chef Brad White recently ser ved up a Hunter/Gat herer Feast ; wine tasting classes wit h international wine judge Ulrike Gelber t go into t he winter

Up at Mount Washington the popular weekend Fondue and Snowshoe Tours continues at Raven Lodge [1 888 231 1499] The t hree course dinner now includes salmon and prawns

In Cumberland, Chef Nicola Cunha puts a nuevo Indian twist on par tner Jean Francois Larche’s hometown dishes (poutine, tour tière and creme brûlée) wit h Montreal meets Mumbai on Tuesday and Wednesday nights at The Great Escape [274 4 Dunsmuir Street, www.greatescape cumber land com, 250 336 8831]

In Comox, owner & Chef Andrew Stignant and his crew are transforming t he Leeward Pub into t he Ander ton Bistro [649 Ander ton Road, 250 339 5400, www ander tonbistro com] Early re por ts are ver y positive

Dough diva Carol Spencer returns on Tuesday, Januar y 27 from a tour of brick oven bakeries in London and Paris Look for new items in the already enchanting line of breads, soups, and good ies at W ild Flour Organic Ar tisan Baker y [221A Churc h S treet, 250 890 0017, www wild flourorganicbaker y com]

Meanwhile at Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250 890 9200 www avenuebistro ca] man ager Torrie Howlett is “ ver y excited” about Chef Aaron Rail’s winter menu and the launch of a se ries of wine dinners Local product, including Comox Valley wines, are a big par t of what t his new menu is about Next up: the Valentine’s Wine Dinner on Februar y 14th

In Cour tenay, Chef Lisa Metz, our bruja of Mexican cuisine, is joined by long time General Manager, Heat her Standish as one of t he owners in Tita’s Mexican Restaurant [536 6t h St, 250 334 8033]. ¿Comida de año nuevo? I suggest the ceviché w/ a pitcher of Heather’s lime mar garitas (shaken, not slushed) to ward of f the greys of mid winter

Another place to help get a warmer perspective is Zizi's Eastern Mediterranean Specialties [4 41B Clif fe Avenue 250 334 1661] where Zizi and her new par tner, Kita Navo, are creating daily specials as well as hosting mont hly belly dancing par ties Zizi’s will be closed Februar y for renovations

The folks at Atlas Café [250 6th Street, Cour tenay 250 338 9838] take their well deser ved win ter break Januar y 19 Februar y 4t h Chef Jon Frazier & owner Sandra Viney have high expecta tions for new sous chef, Paul de Ridder “Paul’s energy and passion for food is a per fect fit to t he team,” says Viney “ Watch for his footprint on our nightly fresh sheets ”

In t he Comox Valley, LUSH Valley Food Action Society [250 331 0152, www lushcomoxval ley org] recently opened t he Comox Valley Food Security Centre

Kudos to owners Helen Belcastro and Chef Giovanni: only a few mont hs af ter opening, t hey’re packing them in at Giovanni’s Ristorante [4 180 Second Ave West, Qualicum Beach, 250 752 6693 www giovannisqualicum com]

In Parksville t he folks at the Landing West Coast Grill [1600 Stroulger Road Nanoose Bay, 250 468 2400, www landinggrill com] recently received t he Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine Their winemaker and brewmaster dinner events consistently sell out Check out t he website for more information Hans Peter Meyer

COWICHAN & OCEANSIDE

“These are t he size of all season radial tires,” was my comment to t he lady in the front of fice who had just sold me a plastic tub of magnificent bi valves I am talking scallops: voluptuous, succulent creamy white freshly har vested never frozen scallops The location of my exclamation was the pro cessing plant for Island Scallops [5552 West Island Highway, Qualicum Beach (Bowser actu ally) Tel: 250 757 9811]. On t he recommendation of a foodie friend I bought eight of the extra large for $16 00 Two dollars a scallop is a pittance when you see the size of these flying saucers Two is a meal Three is indulgence This is a wholesale operation t hat’s been going since 1989 Yes, these are cultured (farmed) scallops but do not go sideways because t his is not the same as farmed fish Cultured scallops are seeded in a hatcher y and t hen reared in t he ocean in small nets attached to subsur face horizontal lines Scallops require clean water within which to grown They feed themselves by filtering the natural microscopic food found in the circulating ocean water There is no ar tifical food or chemicals added Island Scallops is a “farm gate” operation open Mon day to Friday Oh, the big secret? This is where many of t he high end restaurants in Vancouver get their scallops

Red Mar tini Grill [# 1 75 Front Street, Nanaimo, Tel: 250 753 5181] in Nanaimo’s city center is a sassy addition to the downtown food and enter tainment scene The décor has a cer tain brothel esque flair augmented by red and black flock wallpaper and faux leat her banquettes for tete a tetes over bird bath mar tinis There is a tiny stage with varied nightly enter tainment geared to the baby boomer ranging from Neil Young wannabes to a snappy little combos rocking to a beat of their own drummer. It is owned by two cavaliers who’ve been in t he F&B biz around town for years, Tom Lozza and Alex Iormetti and t he t hird par tner/owner is Chef Joel Nelson Most re cently Nelson did a stint in the Cayman Islands cooking up a storm in a funky beachside restau rant It inf luenced his s tyle His menu has a decided t apas leaning wit h a lot of cross cultural pollination going on He mixes up east/west flavours in new and interesting ways and it all works! He also has a def t hand wit h pastr y His NYC style cheesecake is dense enough to hurl at a fast moving dog and fell it in one blow, which, as any self respecting New Yorker will tell you, is how it is meant to be Caveat epicurious: Lunch has a dif ferent chef and t he food falls far below what’s on plate in the evening That aside, Red Mar tini Grill is a lively spot wit h personality, attitude and atmosphere

All I wanted was a good French baguette; crusty outside, fragrant, sof t and yielding on the in side; a per f ect accom paniment to good c heese and wine Why was t hat so hard to f ind in Nanaimo? When Carol & Bill Clay opened Bodhi’s Ar tisan Baker y [5299 Rut her ford Road, Nanaimo, Tel: 250 585 6015] in November, t he city fell on t hem like a hungr y dog on a pork chop If you love the bread at Wildfire (Victoria) or True Grain (Cow Bay) get t hee hence to t his flour power baker y. The name Bodhi is Sanskrit and it means “ aware. ” It reflects t he Clays’ belief that one should know where their food comes from All the ingredients are natural and t he breads are made via a slow fermentation process The grains are freshly milled to preser ve t he original vitamins and minerals Red fife, whole wheat, spelt, multigrain and flax are just a few of the grains used Prior to opening, Bill was a chef at the Fairmount Empress and taught baking in t he Culi nar y Ar ts Program at Vancouver Island University (formerly Malaspina University) Carol, a pas tr y goddess wor thy of cooking on Mount Olympus, can do things with a chocolate croissant that’s likely illegal in many countries, t hankfully not ours Looking for hog heaven? It is located at Hilliers Gourmet Foods on Highway #4 on the way to Por t Alberni The actual address is 3065 Van Horne Road, Qualicum Beach, Tel: 250 752 2390, but t hat is not going to help you to find it The exterior paint job of electric yellow paint is going to do that for you It is located on a weird little cut out road t hat runs parallel to the nor th side of the highway Alber t Kleinschnitz, the owner, is ver y serious about his swine All hail from local farms around Errington and Qualicum Beach. These little piggies never went to market. They were hand picked by Alber t to be made into his sausages, bacon, cold meats, roasts, hams and trotters He smokes his pork using maple or alder and uses no preser vative This is one of the few places where you can get a ham, bone in, wit h t he skin still intact Skin that turns into crispy crack ling on a roast so scrumptious there will be growling around t he table He also sell AAA Alber ta

beef that he fur t her dr y cures for an extended period of time for maximum flavour t he way a high end steak house will Star t t he charcoal now! Su Grimmer

Hilar y’s Cheese and Deli in Cowichan Bay Village is warm and inviting on a crisp, winter day Located on t he water in t he old fishing village just an hour’s drive from Victoria, t his quaint shop of fers more than just cheese which is ver y obvious as soon as you walk in the door The shop is filled with t he delicious aroma of home made soup waf ting from big pots on stove Take a seat in t he back where you can overlook t he water and enjoy a baguette sandwich which is made with the next door neighbor’s French baguette Combine it with a bowl of seasonal soup, created by Linda and t he gals, like roasted garlic tomato, Thai coconut chicken, t hree mushroom wild rice, or a lemony carrot lentil soup

Run by cheesemaker Hilar y Abbott and wife Patty, Hilar y creates superb cheeses made from bot h cow and goat milk at t heir farm just down t he road Their ever popular chevre is always a hit wit h its smooth, rich texture not to mention t he brie and camember t style cheeses such as t heir St Michel named for t heir son, Michael, and St Clair named for Sooke Harbour House propri etor, Sinclair Phillip Their popular tomme s tyle c heese is rind washed wit h Solera blackberr y desser t wine from another neighbor, Cherr y Point Vineyard They also have fabulous blue cheeses like Yoo Boo which is a firm, strong cow ’ s milk blue and a similar Sacre Bleu made with goat’s milk Cowichan Blue is a sof ter, creamier, milder blue and the Valley Blue is made in t he same fashion but wit h goat’s milk They are stepping up production at t heir farm as their cheeses are so popu lar t hey of ten sell out daily Patty and Hilar y also impor t over 80 cheeses and carr y a variety of local preser ves, vinegars and meats Open Wednesday t hrough Sunday 9:00 am to 5:00 pm Closed for t he first two weeks of Januar y Hilar y ’ s Cheese and Deli | 1737 Cowichan Bay Road | Cowichan Bay Village, Cobble Hill | 250 748 5992

At t heir cozy baker y next door to Hilar y ’ s Cheese and Deli in Cowichan Bay Village, t he new owners Bruce and Leslie Stewar t are keeping up t he mar velous traditions of True Grain Baker y founder, Jonat han Knight The hard working bakers use flour which Bruce mills in t heir own on site mill creating a wide variety of breads and pastries One t hing for sure, t heir baguettes fly of f t he shelf French, ficelle, multigrain, spelt, or sourdough which is made wit h Red Fife wheat, and Bruce Stewar t says t hat it’s the more unique varieties t hat are increasing in popularity These also include breads made with grains like Kamut, BC grown spelt and r ye “Increasingly our customers are moving towards t he specialty type breads wit h t hese grains to experience t he unique flavors t hat each grain of fers ”

Red Fife is the heritage wheat t hat was first grown in Ontario in t he 1840’s wit h seed samples from Scotland A hardy wheat, it is said to be t he “genetic parent” of all wheat grown in Canada today A select few Canadian heritage wheat and seed farmers have kept Red Fife alive over t he years along with bakers like Jonathan Knight and Bruce and Leslie Stewar t Tom Henr y, at Lamb’s Leap Farm in Metchosin, is growing Red Fife on Vancouver Island and has recently planted Red Fife at Sungold Meadow Organic Farm right in True Grain’s Cobble Hill neighborhood With Tom Henr y ’ s Red Fife, True Grain challenges t he 100 mile diet wit h bot h a whole grain bread and a round loaf available on Saturdays and Sundays The 4 92 km Loaf You can’t get much more local t han t hat! Their Cracked Grain Bread made wit h Red Fife also flies of f t he shelf as does a personal favorite, Kamut Pumpkin Seed It’s great for sandwiches or, better yet, toasted for break fast Open Wednesday through Saturday 8:00 am to 6:00 pm, Sunday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm Closed the mont h of Januar y True Grain Baker y | 1725 Cowichan Bay Road | Cowichan Bay Village, Cobble Hill | 250 746 7664 | www truegrain ca Kathy McAree

OKANAGAN

For those of you seeking a winter getaway over the holiday season don’t forget that the Okana gan has a glorious array of winter activities to enjoy Swirling and sipping doesn’t stop when it gets cold here we just put our coats on (and sometimes our skis too)! There are still a lot of our wineries t hat will remain open during t he winter mont hs if not, many will accommodate a tast ing a visit by appointment

Make your favorite hostess ver y happy this year by picking up a decadent desser t at Kelowna’s Okanagan Grocer y Ar tisan Breads Owner/Baker Monika Walker and her husband Bill, strive to stock t heir shelves with wonder ful t hings to make our lives easier and well yummier! Savor y items abound as well wit h of course gorgeous breads along wit h house made preser ves and a grand selection of cheeses and other takeaway fridge/freezer items (great to pack up for your trip to t he ski hill) New to t heir stellar line up of fromage are selections from The Farmhouse Natural Cheese people in Agassiz, BC "Alpine Gold," is a washed curd, washed rind cheese wit h a de liciously smelly golden orange rind, which gives a distinct flavour to the straw coloured semi sof t paste And "Countr y Morning," is a traditional Welsh type cheese similar to Caerphilly Countr y Morning has a crumbly creamy texture wit h a slight nutty sharpness www okanagangrocer y com

For t he winelover in your lif e, how about some t hing cool made from a local winebar rel? Broken Barrel Furniture makes creates one of a kind, handcraf ted furniture from “retired” oak bar rels locally obtained from Kelowna, Oliver and Naramata Bench wineries! Designed and built lo cally by Penticton's Bob Taylor, Corina Messerschmidt and Johanna Nichols, the pieces are craf ted

from aged oak , with deep red wine nat ural color ing on one side from you guessed it it’s previous job as a wine aging vessel Get your orders in soon t his stuf f is amazing! www brokenbar rel.ca (250) 276 4776

Check out local wine exper t Rhys Pen der’s website for new courses coming up in the Okanagan! WinePlus+ of fers a variety of courses and classes coming up for all of you oenophiles and wanna be oenophiles out there Makes a great gif t for a loved one or a per fect couples activity If you want to hos t a reall y unique staf f event or group event, call Rhys to book a personalized course www wineplus ca Remember af ter all of your wine stud ies: “Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice ” So, perhaps a trip up to the he 11th Annual Icewine Festival is in order? This popular an nual wine festival begins Tuesday, Jan uar y 13, 2009 and is located just 45 minutes from Kamloops Check out their website for all of the fun event listings at www sunpeaksresor t com

Af t er 3 and 1/2 years at making wine for Therapy Vineyards, General Manag er and Winemaker Marcus Ansems is moving on He has joined the Hemispheres W ine Guild as CEO and Wine Director and will be travel ling around the world bringing back in teresting wines to Canada (Hey! I want that job!) Marcus at Hemispheres Wine Guild Toll Free: 1 866 351 8739

If you are confused whilst seeking out

your favorite wine from Golden Mile in Oliver it is because t hey ha ve c hanged t heir name! Now known as Road 13 to reflect t he location of t he winer y with two of its vineyard sites, the Home and t he Castle. Don’t fret t he q uality is be tt er t han ever www road13vineyards com

The Grand Okanagan Resor t has recently been taken over by Delta Ho t els! Look for ward to a ma jor, muc h needed facelif t to t his per fectly located lakeside resor t Also exciting is t he re cruitment of their hot young Chef Stuar t Klassen Recently at t he Marriott Pin nacle in Vancouver, t he hotel is abuzz about his new menu plans to accom pany the super reno planned for the din ing room. www deltahotels com

Other restaurant news: Adam Perrier, formerly of Figmint Restaurant in Van couver is t he new head c hef at Sal's Prime Steakhouse in Kelowna

REMINDER: The Wines of British Co lumbia are t he f eature of t his year ’ s Vancouver Pla yhouse W ine Fes ti val Come help us strut our stuf f to t he wor ld at t his annual exciting event Marc h 23 to 29 in Vancouver www playhousewinefest com

Happy N ew Year All! Make sure your resolutions for 2009 include: EAT ing lots and drinking Okanagan wine!

Jennifer Schell

Life on Maple Street

Memories of a sweet childhood ritual in rural Quebec. By Su

Growing up in rural Quebec in a house on Rue des Érables, or Maple Street, gives me hon est license to promote Nanaimo’s annual Maple Syrup Festival (more on that later) Early spring in Quebec saw us slogging around in snowdrifts “tap ping” the maple trees on our proper ty. A metal spigot was hammered into the flesh of the tree about a metre from the base, and a tin can was hung on the spigot to catch the sap. Once things star ted to warm up during the day, the sap would begin to “run ” We’d have to make the rounds daily to collect the clear liq uid Well, at least what was left after we’d glugged some right at the tree (Note to self: a warm tongue on cold tin really, really hur ts)

We’d lug the sap buckets back to the kitchen and dump their contents into a huge cauldron on the stove, where it was left to boil for hours. Every win dow in the house fogged up with a glaze that tasted sweet Once the sap was reduced by two thirds, it turned thick and syrupy Meanwhile, we’d be outside again building snow tables of hard packed, pristine white stuff Standing in rows like troops in an honour guard, we’d hold our wooden spoon like paddles in a combat ready position The piping hot syrup was poured onto the clean snow instantly transforming it into warm, golden, pliable toffee, called la tire. We’d roll our spoons along the snow and collect as much as we could get away with. Until you try the manna of

Tequila…

Grimmer

the maple, you have no idea the rapturous pleasure thereof

Nanaimo’s L’Association des Francophones hosts one of the largest bilingual events in Western Canada The ninth annual Maple Sugar Festival runs from Februar y 19 to 22, 2009 at the Beban Park Arena, but this event has become so popular it has migrated into schools and been embraced Nanaimo’s downtown merchants. Ar tists and musicians travel around the city during the week leading up to the event, sharing music and song, dance, stories, ar t and history with students, locals and visitors Menus in many down town restaurants reflect a maple syrup “je ne sais quoi,” with tour tière (meat pie), tar te au sucre (sugar pie) and poutine appearing on plates around town. More than 60 performers enter tain crowds over the weekend, plus there are ice sculpture demonstra tions, horse and carriage rides, an ar tisans’ market and a major toe tapping heel stomping dance on Sat urday night complete with fiddlers as well as wash board and spoon players The festival wraps up Sunday morning with a lumberjack breakfast and tof fee pull

Whether your roots are Québécois or pure marmot Vancouver Island, this is one hootenanny you do not want to miss. More information may be found at www.francophonenanaimo.org or by calling: 250 729 2776.

Me duele la cabeza (my head hurts)

T O F I NO B UZ Z

by Kira Rogers

returns next issue

Six Mile Liquor Store showcased their impressive arsenal of premium tequilas at a tasting in their event suite on November 7th The Herrencia Historico, a dark amber tequila aged for five years in sherry barrels and the Tres Generaciones, natural amber, aged three years in once used bourbon barrels were mis preferitos (my favorites) Six Mile Liquor store boasts the best selection of premium tequilas in the Victoria area G Easdon Six Mile Liquor Store, 483 Island Highway, Victoria, 250 391 4458

wine

great

THE WINES MEAD

Tugwell Creek Solstice Metheglin Mead 2006 Vancouver Island $20.00 + Located just outside of Sooke, Tugwell Creek Meadery was established in 1998 and has been going strong ever since. Proprietors Bob Liptrot and Dana Lecomte produce a wide range of honey based products that offer an utterly fascinating, exotic perfume found nowhere else The Solstice Metheglin is off dry with an intriguing nose of wild flowers, honey, ginger and spice Wonderfully balanced and rich with good acidity and an incredibly long finish that must be tasted to be believed

WHITES

J P Chenet Classic Chardonnay 2006 France $13 00 + Here is the new style Vin de Pays d’Oc from southern France! Fruity, dry, crisp and refreshing, gently perfumed, with grapefruit and citrus flavours and a soft clean finish

Yalumba Barossa Wild Ferment Chardonnay 06 Australia $13.00 +

The recipe calls for a wild yeast fermentation using the indigenous yeast found in the vineyard, extended lees contact, regular lees stirring and several months aging in fine grained French oak The results are a wine loaded with personality! Round and supple, with an exotic nose and toasted cashews, citrus and peach flavours and a creamy texture, balanced with a crisp clean acidity

ROSE

Ar tazuri Rosado Navarra 2007Spain $18 00 +

I know, I know, it is the middle of winter, but what can I do? I don’t look for pink wines, they just appear and every so often, no matter the season, they are so good, they just cannot be ignored This lovely Spanish rosé is bright pink, dry and refreshing with a fragrance that reminds me of ripe strawberries and raspberries Full bodied with juicy red berry flavours and a soft clean fin ish A fruity little delight to quaff and dream of sunny days ahead

Moulin De Gassac Guilhem Rose 2007 France $20 00 + Rosés! What would summer be without them or winter for that matter! Before your eyes glaze over let it be said that Moulin de G assac is not your average little fluffy off dry pink soda pop tip pler Far from it! Mas de Daumas G assac is considered the Chateau Lafite of the Languedoc and its pedigree can be tasted through the entire range of wines. Gorgeous salmon pink colour with a delicate floral strawberry nose and plenty of rich berry flavours on the palate Dry and thirst quenching with a long fresh finish

REDS

Prunotto Dolcetto D’Alba 2006 Italy $16.00 + /375ml

Prunotto Dolcetto

Terra Andina Cabernet/Merlot 2007, $9.50 (BCLDB Stores), +626275

Those looking to put an easy drinking and affordable red on the table at dinner time know to browse the Chile section in their local wine store There are plenty of bargains to be found but you won’t go wrong with this smooth cab merlot from Chile’s central coast While this wine falls into the crowd pleaser category, it has enough backbone to be food friendly. Deep, bright crimson colour, appealing fruit and soft, sweet tannins make for a well made, modern wine at a price point even your accountant would approve.

Food pairing: Spaghetti and meatballs worked like a charm

Terra Andina Altos Malbec/Petit Verdot 2004, $24 to $27 (Private Wine Stores) +83790

For a more serious sip go for the Altos It offers layers of ripe Bordeaux style at a fraction of Bordeaux cost. Although the Malbec and Petite Verdot grape varieties may play a suppor ting role in France, in Chile they are headliners. Swirl your glass of bold, stylish wine and enjoy the full, rich flavours and the dark fruits, chocolate and coffee aromas Then, give thanks that not all good wines require you to cash in a GIC

Food pairing: Steak frites or lamb chops are a natural choice

Cat Amongst the Pigeons “Nine Lives” Shiraz 06 Australia $26.00 +

Only in Australia, you say? The name does nothing to convey how seriously good this Barossa shiraz is. Deep purplish black colour with an explosive nose, thick with the scent of blueberries, blackberries, mocha and spice! The palate is much more restrained but don’t kid yourself, every thing is there in spades Perfectly balanced with buckets of fruit and enough structure to keep it together for years to come.

Colombini Leone Rosso Toscana 2004 Italy $26.00 + Donatella Cinelli Colombini is no stranger to the Tuscan wine scene Formerly of the Barbi wine dynasty she went her own way about a decade ago and has never looked back Leone Rosso is a dry red table wine made from a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. Aromatic, ripe and complex with red cherry, dusty ear th, spice and smoky nuances, an unctuous body loaded with concen trated fruit flavours, good acidity and an expansive mouth filling texture with firm, chewy tannins Very tasty indeed!

Alvaro Palacios Remondo Rioja La Vendimia 2006 Spain $23.00 +

Made by Alvaro Palacios, one of Spain’s most acclaimed winemakers, La Vendimia is a blend of G arnacha and Tempranillo. Deeply coloured with an intense nose of red fruit, herbs and oaky vanilla, this lovely Rioja is mouth filling with supple fruit flavours, finesse and lots of character that persists through the long silky finish

Vina Gormaz Tempranillo 2005 Spain $18 00 +

The juice for this wine comes from a 50 year old, ungrafted tempranillo vineyard in Ribera del Duero Deeply coloured, with plum, blackberry, ear th and spice aromas, medium body with ripe fruit flavours and soft tannins This wine is not complex but that is its vir tue It is a wine to drink not study! Delicious to the last drop.

Bodegas Gascon Malbec 2006 Argentina $17.00 + A dark rustic red, oozing with generous fruit and oak aromas! Full bodied and loaded with ripe berry and spice flavours, this tasty red is not fat, heavy or over laden with hard tannins; it is sim ply delicious with enough stuffing to go a couple more rounds.

HESTER CREEK 3 LITRE PINOT BL ANC IS BACK

Lending a hand at a time when your VI SA might be maxed out Okanagan’s Hester Creek Estate Winery’s 3 litre box is a great way to take the sting out of wine buying Pop this made from 100% BC sourced pinot blanc wine in your fridge and you’re good to go for a few dinners

Available direct Call Jason Hyde at 250 338 wine (9463)

A g i n g G r a c e f u l l y — a n d C h e a p l y

Putting wine away for a rainy day makes good sense. By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

Cellaring wine is the ultimate hobby for wine aficionados. The reward is drinking a bottle that has aged beautifully. The wine has mellowed and evolved, becom ing harmonious. It has more to offer than it did in its youth. Like an old school mate years later, it has transformed. No need to be rich to have a cellar. We’re cer tainly not wealthy and we’ve had ours for more than a decade It’s a myth that only expensive wine can age Forget about the obvious but costly Bordeaux, Bur gundy and Brunello If you are a diligent shopper, you can find underrated gems between $20 and $30 that will give plenty of joy five to 10 years down the road Not all wine improves with age Most of it is made to be drunk as soon as you return from the wine store If you want to cellar a wine, choose one that has enough concentration of flavours, acidity and, for red wines, tannin. Some grape varieties naturally have what it takes; just like some peo ple have better genes and age gracefully.

To the surprise of many, whites can age as well as reds. Riesling and Chenin Blanc are ideal con tenders. They have bracing acidity, which keeps a wine alive for decades. Both are unfashionable, contributing to their lower price point The Clare Valley in Australia boasts some fantastic dry Ries lings Pikes and Skillogalee are well priced choices Off dry to sweet versions can be found in Ger many St Urbans Hof, Selbach and Dr Pauly Bergweiler offer age wor thy Rieslings under $30 With time, Riesling’s petrol character intensifies, a treat for those who love this grape Like Ries ling, Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley comes in a range of sweetness levels, from bone dry to fully sweet All develop magnificently, but the dry wines tend to be easier on the wallet In the region of Vouvray, the wines of Domaine Huët make us weak at the knees. A friend treated us to a 1954 Huët Vouvray on her 50th bir thday. Pouring it blind, she asked us to guess the vintage. Twenty years old at the most, we thought. Still fresh as a daisy, it could have kept for another couple of decades.

Semillon from Australia has a reputation for aging well, especially those from Hunter Valley Peter Lehmann’s $16 bargain from the Barossa Valley was a great revelation for us At eight years old, it was still vibrant Other examples of Australian Semillon wor th seeking out are McWilliams and Tyrrell’s from Hunter Valley With time, Semillon develops a pronounced wet wool character istic Sounds bizarre, but it’s extremely appealing Like most of us as we age, Semillon puts on weight. All the more to love. This grape is also the principle ingredient in the sweet and delectable yet pricey Sauternes and the main reason why they age so well. Delicious wines but not for your post holiday budget.

Competing for our love is the grape Grüner Veltliner. Off the radar, these Austrian jewels offer in credible value. Little did we know they had such longevity. Tasting old Grüners going back to 1975 was an eye opening experience After three hours of trying one Grüner after another, each one older than the last, we were still begging for more With time, it develops characteristics similar to white Burgundy Ear thy, steely and nutty flavours depar t from the citrus and lime driven young Grüners Below $30, those from Schloss Gobelsburg and Salomon are a must For a few more dol lars, Prager and Pichler are unbeatable

When it comes to red, choices abound. Many are obscure, but for this very reason they are good value for money. The wines from France’s southwest region of Madiran owe their unique character to the indigenous grape Tannat. Robust, rustic and grumpy when young, Madiran develops into a tasty bold red with a much friendlier disposition. To create the perfect French experience, serve your aged Madiran with cassoulet. Alain Brumont is the master and his Torus Madiran sells for $22 at the liquor store Also off the beaten track, Por tuguese reds have an equally appealing price tag Touriga National is the main player in Por t production Many producers are now embracing this grape for dry red wine Often compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, its tannic structure and concen tration of flavours give it the stamina for the long haul Though lesser known, Quinta do Crasto’s $20 Douro is sure to be a crowd pleaser at a dinner par ty 10 years from now With hundreds of indigenous grapes, Italy too has plenty of red treats with good genes. Aglian ico is the star of the southern region of Campania. Its fierce tannins and searing acidity can make it austere in its youth, but Aglianico has enough meat on its bones to easily last a decade. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the region’s leading producers. With time, their wine sheds some of its masculine character, becoming elegant and polished Over the Apennines in the region of Abruzzo, the flagship grape of Montepulciano deser ves a little respect Though many examples are simple, fruit forward pizza wines, Montepulciano has a serious alter ego Endowed with intense fruit and robust tannin, a well made Montepulciano can be complex and cellar wor thy La Valentina’s is one of our latest finds and is biodynamic to boot Most wine drinkers are familiar with Cabernet Sauvignon Full bodied and structured, it is the

grape that keeps the wines of Bordeaux alive for so many years. Longevity is not ex clusive to Bordeaux though. Chile and Australia present plenty of affordable alterna tives. While they may not have the depth or complexity of a top Bordeaux, the wines have an attractive ripeness of fruit to flesh them out Michelle recently attended a ver tical tasting of Cousiño Macul Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile going back to 1978 The 1988 and 1984 vintages were the highlights, possessing plenty of freshness and fruit She immediately ran to the liquor store to stock up on the succulent 2006 vin tage, debating whether to share the secret with anyone Bordeaux may not be synonymous with value, but the South of France and south ern Rhône Valley are bursting with great buys. While style and quality vary, wines with a high percentage of Syrah or Mour vèdre are possible candidates for the cellar. Both have that magic combination of structure and fruit. A bottle of the 1998 Bergerie de l’Hor tus, Coteaux du Languedoc showed beautifully last summer. With no intention of aging it, Michaela had long forgotten this $16 wine that lay buried in her cellar What a surprise! Developed and savoury but still very much alive with ample fruit, it was wor th every penny and more

So, you’ve bought your Peter Lehmann Semillon and your Cousiño Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Now how do you store them? Far away from temptation is definitely the best option, at least for us. Besides temptation, temperature is the most impor tant factor to consider, with 13°C (55°F) being ideal. If you don’t have a space that cold, constant temperature will suffice provided it’s below 20°C. Keep in mind that warmer temperatures age your wine more quickly; not necessarily a bad thing if you are plan ning to drink it sooner. Beware, temperatures above 24°C can cook and spoil wine. You should also take into account the humidity level Excess humidity will leave wine la bels mouldy, and lack of humidity will cause the corks to shrink encouraging leakage Humidity of 75 percent is a happy medium In lieu of perfect conditions, a basement, cold room or cooler closet is a good substitute A wine fridge is a fantastic but costly solution If storing wine at home simply isn’t an option, the Vancouver Wine Vault and Vin de G arde offer great alternatives for off site storage.

Nothing beats that feeling of satisfaction over how little you spent. Imagine how thrilled you’ll be when you actually drink your lovingly stored wine. For every bottle you buy to put away, make sure you pick up a couple to drink immediately to offset temptation. And if you’re debating whether to open a bottle from your cellar, go ahead; it’s probably the right time Good genes should be apparent at any age

“So, you’ve

bought your Peter Lehmann Semillon and your Cousiño Macul Cabernet Sauvignon. Now how do

you store them?”

T a s t i n g N o t e s

2007 Wolf Blass, Gold Label Riesling, Adelaide, Australia, $20.99 (CSPC #287714)

Fantastically expressive nose of diesel and citrus that will instantly charm Riesling lovers Succulent flavours of lime with lingering notes of grapefruit peel Its petrol aromas should intensify over the years. Has the stamina to keep for 10 to 15 years.

2006 Paul Zinck, Riesling, Alsace AOC, France, $21 99 (CSPC #414540)

Bone dry with thirst quenching flavours of pear, lemon sorbet and a pleasing steely back bone Slightly more delicate than the Wolf Blass, it should be consumed in five years

2005 Trimbach, Riesling, Alsace AOC, France, $28.99 (CSPC #142091)

Austere, ear thy and severe in its youth, Trimbach’s Riesling will soften and become friend lier with time A great choice if you like ultra dry Rieslings It has the structure to stand up to rich dishes like cheese fondue, quiche and tar te à l’oignon. Will easily keep for a decade.

2007 Leitz, Rheingau Riesling Kabinett, Germany, $23 99 (CSPC #428045)

We were both ecstatic when we tried this wine. Rule #1: buy a couple of bottles to drink now to avoid drinking the bottles you’ve put away We sure couldn’t resist the temptation Juicy and concentrated flavours of lemon curds, peach and minerals Off dry and absolutely gorgeous! Can’t wait to try it 10 years from now

2005 Château Gaudrelle, Chenin Blanc Sec Tendre, Vouvray AOC, France, $24 99 (CSPC #309567)

We had the recent privilege of trying the 2001 vintage of this wine What a complete makeover! Luscious youthful flavours of apricot and honey should transform into complex savoury mineral and oyster shell notes. While this is approachable now, it will be even bet ter and more harmonious in seven to eight years from now A great match with scallops

2006 Penfolds, Koonunga Hills, Shiraz Cabernet, South Australia, Australia, $16.99 (CSPC #285544)

Very charming nose; ripe but not jammy Good exuberance of fruit with intense dark black plum and leather notes without being tiring. We can see this wine aging well. Penfolds has hosted many tastings worldwide featuring old vintages, proving that it can Try for yourself in eight to 10 years

2006 Cousiño Macul Antiguas, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Chile, $19 99 (CSPC #298075)

This vintage was a standout at the Cousiño Macul vertical tasting Generous, juicy cherry and vanilla flavours framed by firm tannin. Excellent balance. Should age gracefully for 15 to 20 years?

2006 Quinta do Crasto, Douro DOC, Por tugal, $19.99 (CSPC #499764)

Thanks to Quinta do Crasto, we’ve been able to satisfy our Por tuguese red wine cravings for the last decade Mouth watering black plum and tobacco notes with fantastic structure and refreshing acidity. We always have a few bottles in our cellar; it never disappoints.

2005 Wynns, Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia $25 (CSPC #502039)

A ver tical tasting with wines going back to the early 1980s proved to us how well this wine can age; 2005 should be no exception A great gift for the host if you are invited for dinner They’ll be touched that you shared the secret with them Don’t forget to put a couple of bot tles aside for yourself as well.

2006 Château la Courançonne, Plan de Dieu, Gratitude, Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC, France, $23.99 (CS PC #840801) (40 percent Grenache, 30 percent Syrah, 30 percent Mour vèdre)

Seductive, spicy and floral aromas repeating on the palate Firm tannins but tons of meat on its bones. Explosive bright red and dark fruit

An

2005 Feudi di Gregorio,

$29 99 (CSPC #55673)

A beautiful example of Aglianico that with time will develop into an elegant gentleman. Fresh raspberry, plum and liquorice notes suppor ted by substantial yet polished tannins Share with your loved one eight to 10 years down the road

make way for pronounced mineral notes that linger A very pretty wine and an outstanding value for $24! If you can resist, wait five to six years

2006 Domaine Gauby, Côtes du Roussillon Villages “Les Calcinaires,” France, $30 00 (CSPC #568410)

astonishing wine from talented winemaker and biodynamic advocate Gérard G auby. Ex plosive ear thy and wild gamey aromas with an appealing dried herb component Equally at tractive on the palate with deep dark fruit, raspberries and garrigues notes Drink a bottle now with a piece of lamb and keep one to open in seven or eight years.

Rubrato Aglianico, IGT Campania, Italy,

Chef ’s

Talk: The Best of the Best: a round-up of memorable quotes by Ceara Lornie

"What is your earliest food memor y?"

Sean Brennan Brasserie L'Ecole 250.475.6260

Milk

What’s in my refrigerator at home?

Jeff Penner Spinnakers 250 386 27 39

I can’t tell you for sure. I eat out a lot. If my fridge could talk, it would have vague memories of better times, a skewed and cynical opinion of the present and little hope for the future Maybe it’d gossip about the cheddar not looking like she used to. I know for cer tain that I’ve got an array of pickled curiosities and a great big jar of sauerkraut nobody else wanted

Mare Dewar (owner) Upstairs/ 250.725.3664

My poor chefs are all a bunch of over worked, underpaid slaves who feel they have no time to write about their fridges Actually, they probably don’t have any food in their fridges just empty take out boxes.

"What is the best food or food related gift you have received?"

David Mincey Camille’s Restaurant 250.381.3433

My best ever food gift is my mother in law Jean Robinson's amazing macaroni and cheese Allow me to explain The gen eral public might think that chefs spend their down time dining on foie gras and truffles but the reality is quite the opposite Mostly we eat crap I go over to Jean's house and help her with her garden she pays me with mac and cheese. Life could not be better The best food in the world is that which someone else prepares for you with love in their hear t

“What Was The Best Thing You Ate This Year?”

Peter Heptonstall Restaurant Matisse 250.480.0883

Humble pie The girls in my kitchen ser ve it up daily and I deser ve it!

“Where do you find inspiration when creating a new dish?”

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545

It could be a roadside stand stacked with butternut squash, a magazine photo of a glistening lamb shank, the way cous cous rolls in your mouth swollen to the height of textural enjoyment, a local farmer explaining his epic victory over insects to bring me this pristine apple, or a par ticular flavour in a friend's retelling of a memorable dish. Sometimes it's nothing more than "hey great meal!" from a satisfied customer The smallest details are the foundation of a chef's drive, and ultimately, satisfaction “Chefs tell us their guilty pleasures in the kitchen, trashy cravings and childhood favourite foods”

Jesse Bl ake Shelter Restaurant 250.725.3353

I carry no shame and feel no guilt, for I love the hot dog and the root beer float

Peter Zambri Zambri’s 250 360 1171

My guilty food pleasure is probably the food on the BC Ferries. It does not happen often because I am usually well equipped in the food depar tment wherever I go, but sometimes I have ferry food. And it feels like it afterwards that’s for sure! Hey, if Feenie can have a Whitespot burger, so the @#$* can I!

Trish Dixon The Breakers 250.725.2558

Guilty food pleasure? I never have guilt For me, I can't believe I'm going to share this... cheese slices! Yes, should I mention the corporate name? Okay, Kraft Singles no other kind please They are always in my mom's fridge, and I always go for it Just plain on their own, unwrap and enjoy! I don't want to know what's in them, don't ever tell me

Robert Belcham C Restaurant 604.681.1164

There is nothing I like more than GOO D cold pizza and GOO D

warm beer for breakfast

"What would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail", is mounted in chef Thomas Keller's kitchen at the French Laun dr y. How would you answer this question?

Trent McIntyre Atlas Cafe 250.338.9838

I would probably try and open another restaurant I love the ex citement of putting the whole thing together. Designing the kitchen, new menu, hiring new excited staff and creating the am biance I would even try and get the food network involved with ‘Opening Soon’. But please if I do try this, just hit me over the head with a bat to bring me to my senses! ("Well he did end up opening a second restaurant Avenue Bistro now hit him )

“What were you cooking ten years ago?”

John Crook Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar 250.602.0835

Do I remember ten years ago like it was yesterday? I sure do. A cooking apprenticeship under my apron tie and a notion to relo cate to New York City, I took the plunge This meant waking daily at 5 am to help a local bread baker finish his morning shift which gave me 15 minutes to run ten blocks and prepare for pastry cooking school It was school until 4 pm, then a sprint to be on time for my evening volunteering shift at the prestigious Payard Patisserie After months of running his evening production kitchen, I moved on to a similar routine at Restaurant Daniel working under Pastry Chef Thomas Hass. I would work 18 hours a day for a year of my life Sunday was “sleep and study” day Do I remember what I was cooking? What WASN’T I cooking?”

Chris Rug Brentwood Bay Lodge 888 544 2079

I was working in Muskoka, Ontario at the Lake Joseph Club mak ing a whopping $8 75/hr and working all stations in the joint Too many doubles, too much beer and too few women

Note: chefs being a restless lot, many have moved on from the restaurants mentioned below