EAT Magazine 13-04 July|August 2009

Editor in Chief G ary Hynes

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant/web editor Katie Zdybel

Community Repor ters

Victoria: Katie Zdybel, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell

Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, Mara Jernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Mar tin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Adver tising:

Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), G ary Hynes (agencies, regional and national) 250 384 9042, adver tise@eatmagazine.ca

All depar tments Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel 250 384 9042, fax 250 384 6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com

Photo by Mic hael Tourigny

Along with summer’s arrival comes an exciting rush of fresh, local foods. From farmers’ markets, outdoor patios and festivals to backyard grilling and alfresco picnics, from sausages to big salads there’s plenty of easy living and good eating everywhere What could be better?

In this issue our contributors turn their writing skills to summer recipes, wines, sustainable seafood, the joys of dim sum and as a special nod to those who best exemplify the BC food community two local heroes Metchosin farmer Tom Henry and Vancouver bookseller Barbara jo McIntosh ALSO [See pg 11 for the wine upset of the decade!]

From time to time EAT features one of our editors in our Editor’s Note This issue EAT website editor Katie Zdybel writes about a stopover she made on a recent trip to Cor tes Island. Her contemplations on life and eating are below. Enjoy.

Bon appétit, G ary Hynes, Editor

IN THE DETAILS

By Katie Zdybel

A friend of mine recently returned from dinner at Chez Panisse in Berkeley with a grain of criticism spiking her otherwise sublime experience. “Dessert,” she informed me, “was a peach on a plate. A peach on a plate!” The juiciest, most succulent peach she’d ever tasted prettily perched on a simple and elegant plate, mind you, but she was grossly un derwhelmed. When I expressed to her how much I thought I would appreciate such a graceful design, she protested, “but anyone can plunk a peach on a plate ”

True We can all take the time to pluck the most carefully grown and perfectly ripe peach from the nearest, most nutritious orchard with its roots deep in the richest soil We can then transpor t said fruit delicately to the kitchen, ar tfully choose just the right plate one that ser ves as a canvas and not a distraction and set it down on the table with an air of conviviality and ar tistry. But when was the last time any of us ser ved and ate a peach in this manner when left to our own devices?

This interaction got me to thinking about coffee cups, forks, and waiters.

When I wander into an unfamilliar café for an Americano and it arrives in a well de signed cup that somehow, just by picking it up, extends its quiet, classic sophistication to me, I’m delighted Correspondingly, there’s a fork that surfaces occasionally in my silverware drawer that I find impossible to eat well with It was cheaply made, feels flimsy in the hand, and reminds me too much of bad cafeteria food (it having wound up in the drawer, no doubt, after someone pilched it from a bad cafeteria) The point is, for those of us attuned to the minutiae, a bad fork can ho hum a real work of ar t meal

Which leads me to waiters, the men and women who stand on their feet all day at tending to the minutiae of flocks of eaters.

Just the other day I missed a connection from Quadra to Cor tes Island by seconds and decided to wander up the hill to the Heriot Bay Inn patio for a bite. Bleary eyed and road weary from a couple long days in transit, I dropped into a seat completely un hun gry, but desperately needing coffee A waitress appeared to welcome me and spruce up the table Hot, fresh coffee arrived promptly after that with a pretty little pitcher of cream and a lovely, heavy spoon I hemmed and hawed about what to order longer than the acceptable amount of time, then feeling like this might annoy the ser vice, explained that I wasn’t all that hungry and could take my coffee to go The waitress was perfectly gracious about this; I was welcome to stay, to eat or not. Enjoy your coffee and the view, was all that was asked of me. Coffee was freshened, water was replenished. I sipped and listened as the waiters bobbed and weaved around the patio, replaced forks, recited specials, got pulled into conversation and laughter. They seemed perfectly pleased when I finally ordered a half salad and when it arrived it was simple, but full of colour, freshness, and tasted exactly like the right thing at the right time

“E xcellent choice,” said the waitress when I picked the walnut honey dressing, as though I’d just chosen something special from the wine list There were three servers cir culating the deck that afternoon and each one of them had the details of their duties nicely polished. I was made to feel like I was welcome and being taken care of, rather than ser ved or doted on, and their amiable helpfulness felt sincere, not pre fabricated. Their attitudes made all the difference.

Sometimes we can become so focused on the extravagance of a meal out that we overlook appreciating the small details a patient waiter, the gentle cur ve of the water pitcher, the way someone has angled the table so the light falls just so Try ordering something unfanciful next time you go out a plain pasta, the house greens, or a soli tary peach, say and see what other elements rise to your attention You may find, even at your own kitchen table, you’ve been missing some of the beauty in the details

SUMMER NIGHT MARKETS in RICHMOND

Following the example of Asia’s evening markets, Richmond will be offering its array of curried fish balls, Korean barbeque, Easter shish kabobs and more on summer nights Saturdays 7pm to midnight and Sundays 7pm to 11pm, stroll the market stands for delicious nosh 12631 Vulcan Way, Richmond

ITALIAN GARDEN PART Y at HART HOUSE

Celebrate the pleasures of a mid summer evening with fresh Mediterranean fare and sublime wines from Italy, ser ved in an incom parable setting. Guests will be welcome to stroll around the beautiful Har t House estate lawn and gardens Reservations by phone only (604.298.4278). $45 per person, July 22nd.

TEEN SUMMER C AMP at PIC A

ORG

ANIC

ISL ANDS FEST IVAL and SUSTAINABILIT Y EXPO

“Live green Do good We’ll show you how ” July 4th to 5th at Victoria’s Glendale G ardens this expo presents organic products, tips, and information to inspire the way you eat, garden, work, and play. Past exhibits include Sooke Harbour House, Level Ground Trading, and more of your favourite local eco minded com panies. Check out their website at www.or ganicislands ca

FAIRBURN FARM COT TAGE GETAWAY

Fairburn Farm offers a brilliant summer get away for families: rent their bright and com fortable farmhouse cottage and you can spend the days on the beautiful, rustic farm with the kids then join Mara for dinner on your own (they provide a babysitter) for an unforget table farm fresh meal. Two weeks remain: July 4th to 11th and August 1st to 8th Call Mara at 250.746.4637 to book it.

CHAMPAGNE TA ST ING at BRA SSERIE L’ECOLE

The Victoria Wine Society is hosting a Cham pagne tasting on July 12 perfectly paired with L’ecole chef Sean Brennan’s dishes. Availabil ity is limited so don’t wait to buy tickets: $60 for members, $70 for non members, they can be purchased at BC Wineguys (2759 Cadboro Bay Road and 109 230 Cook Street). Call Glenn Barlow, Victoria Wine Society President at 250.592.8466 for more details.

SUPER SUMMER JUICES and SMOOTHIES

Learn how to whip up smoothies rich with nu trients and flavour or squeeze a fresh and cooling summer juice, demonstrated on a Champion Juicer by whole foods personal chef Laura Moore. The Summer Apple Zing, Black berry Nectarine Puree Parfait, and Cucumber Pick Up are just a few to get your mouth wa tering. July 15th at the Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village Visit www gfyg ca

TA STE: VICTORIA’S FEST IVAL of FOO D and WINE

Victoria’s first annual food and wine offers a local taste of Vancouver Island and the wine regions of British Columbia Not just a wine festival, Taste offers culinary tourism experi ences at venues around downtown Victoria, as well as farms and vineyards throughout the Saanich Peninsula and Cowichan Valley Enjoy an extra long weekend of tastings, seminars and events July 16th through July 19th www victoriataste com has all the details

Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar ts welcomes back your teens (ages 10 17) for thier interac tive and hands on, 5 day summer camp fea turing local and international cuisine which they can prepare at home Taught by profes sional Chef Instructors, teens will be guided through preparations of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, desser ts and wrap up the week with a black box ‘Iron Chef ’ style competition Cost is $450 per person. Dates available through July and August Call 604 734 4488 to register

C AMOSUN COLLEGE FOO D and WINE PAIRING WORKSHOPS

Set at the historic Dunlop House, Camosun College will be hosting Wednesday workshops through July Whip up some tapas, learn how to pair them with sangria, then taste the fruits of your labour on July 29. $95 per workshop. To register call 250 370 3550 Learning never tasted so good!

August

CHEFS TO THE FIELD

Showcasing local produce and the skills of up to 32 restaurants and 3 culinary academies at the Terra Nova Rural G arden. Culinary compe titions, music, and silent auction Supports the Terra Nova Schoolyard Society; connecting kids with the ear th. Aug 9. 11am 4pm. 2631 Westminster Hwy, Richmond www kidsinthe garden.org

FIRST OK ANAGAN FEA ST of FIELDS

FarmFolk/CityFolk is pleased to announce Okanagan’s first Feast of Fields will be held August 23rd at Summerland’s Valentine Farm Representing chefs, vintners, ar tisans, and farmers from the entire Okanagan and Sim ilkameen Valleys, this is an event you won’t want to miss Arrive hungry Tickets on sale now, visit www.feastoffields.com to purchase.

NORTH SA ANICH FL AVOUR TRAIL

View and experience some hands on activities at farms, wineries, and nurseries that show case Nor th Saanich food production Meet your farmers, shake hands with your vintners, and taste your way through the markets and restaurants at the peak of summer August 22nd and 23rd, visit www.Nor thSaanich.ca for more details

WINEMAKER’S CULINARY SERIES DINNER, JOIE FARM WINERY

Taste an inspired menu featuring the freshest regional cuisine paired with Joie Farm’s wines set at God’s Mountain Estate, 4898 Lake side/Eastside Road in an idyllic vineyard over looking Skaha Lake. August 26th, reserve your spot by calling 250 493 8657

Ready to learn to Cook like a Chef

Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre has demonstration and hands on classes taught by renowned local and international chefs.

Learn to prepare delicious new dishes and dine on outstanding cuisine.

Visit thriftyfoods.com for class details and to register.

Register today and be on your way to cooking like a chef.

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village is located at the intersection of Shelbourne and McKenzie, 1626 McKenzie Ave.

Culinar y intelligence for the 2 months ahead

by Katie Zdybel

Mast head

Halibut wit h wild mushrooms at t he Mas t head

The outside of the charming restaurant is welcoming and dates back to it’s inception as a hotel built way back in 1863 Local wood siding, windows with original glass and a pictur esque view of the working boats tied up at the government dock catch your eye as you approach the front door Inside the décor is rustic and comfor ting, dominated by a bar crammed with a commendable selection of scotch and fine spirits A large collection of crystal carafes hints that wine is taken seriously in the mix.

The setting is decidedly retro, with old comfor table chairs, a minimum of ar t work, most of the walls are filled with win dows looking out to the marina and the views of water and nearby Saltspring Island The ser vice is friendly and well meaning all this makes for a welcoming and comfor table place to dine.

The menu is laid out fairly simply with lots of well practiced local specialties, many local seafood choices and a few scat tering of local farm raised meats like rib eye steaks and veni son The chef also has a penchant for poultry and offers local Cowichan Bay Farm duck and chicken on the menu It is how ever, a setting that cries out for seafood, from an excellent ap petizer of Cor tez Island Mussels and clams (ser ved with a cone of fries and aioli Belgian style) to poached wild salmon with a creamy lemon asparagus risotto, all are executed with a capable hand in the kitchen

There is a very good wine list with many local gems, a great place to sample the best vineyards of the Cowichan Valley. There is also an intriguing list of “Geek Wines” filled with solid choices and values from around the wine world The restau rant is popular with visitors and locals and a great place to go if you’re looking for good (not flashy) food and a comfor table and casual dining experience by Bill Jones

1705 Cowichan Bay Road, Cowichan Bay, BC, Tel: 250 748 3714, Nightly from 5:00 pm, Closed: lunch, $30 Table de Hote ( oca foods menu choice)

MY FARMER

Pedrosa Farms

Asparagus

The ocal cl mate s idea for Asparagus and for a short window in the spring, some of the finest asparagus anywhere is grown on this far m just a couple of kilometers from the restaurant Farmgate sa es and restaurant trade on y ava lable by cal ing 250 415 7072

MY WINERY

Alderlea Vineyards

Roger and Nancy Dosman

Premium pinot noir and unusual wh tes. red b end called Fusion

Venturi Shulze

Giordano and Mar lyn Ventur Renown for unusua white and spark ing b ends and prem um pinot noir, Estremi

Chef Matt Horn

Cuisine Times Ambience With Who? Price Local, Classic, Unfussy

Chef Matt Horn Countr y, Rustic, Comfortable Nightly from 5pm Friends, Lovers, Family, V sitors Apps $8 $13 Main $20 $33

(former y the Ford Farm)

Guanciale is ver y hard to find outside of Italy. But even many Italian don’t know about this unsmoked, air cured Italian bacon made from pig's jowl Guanciale is traditional in the dish Spaghetti all'amatriciana but those in the nor th use pancetta thinking it is the same. But it is not. To make guanciale, pork cheek or jowl is rubbed with salt, wine, ground red or black pepper and cured for 40 days. It is stronger than pancetta and its texture is more delicate. Its fat has a different quality to it, melting easily into dishes. The added collagen in this cut makes sauces silky smooth Oyama Sausage Company in Vancouver makes a version and it can be bought at their store in the Granville Island Public Market They suggest using it in tomato sauces, soups, stews and paella to intensify flavours Oyama products are distributed throughout BC so maybe your favourite deli carries it

*Oh, and if you manage to get a hold of some guanciale to make Spaghetti all'amatri ciana use pecorino cheese (a sharp, salty sheep’s cheese) as they do in the south rather than parmigiano.

Castelvetranos O lives

If there is a star at chic cocktail par ties this summer it would be the Castelvetrano olive. Whether it’s the vivid, almost lime green colour or mild, buttery flavour these giants have become the nibble of choice among olive lovers and have exploded onto the foodie scene

Castelvetranos, from the town of the same name in Sicily, are harvested young and cured in lightly salted brine. There are mild, with a nuanced flavor that's both salty and sweet, so they appeal not only to olive fans, but also to those who aren’t into the stronger, pungent types. I find the taste can be compared to a fine, mild and fruity olive oil There’s a natural flavour that comes across Although excellent in slow braises and sauces, they are at their best when ser ved sim ply perhaps paired with a mild Italian cheese so their crisp, juicy flavour can be savoured Castelvetranos have also become a must have bar accessory. Connoisseurs of ar tisan gin like them in their mar tinis because they add an olive note without overpowering the ex pensive drink. Why would you want to go and ruin a good mar tini by putting bad olives in? As I write this, I have been steadily dipping into the little tub of Castelvetranos I picked up from Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village. If I show a little restraint, I can save the last few for a mar tini before dinner tonight

Table Champetre (Countr y Table) Hosted on Tannadice Farm, July 26t h 4pm Cocktails & Farm Tour 5 course gourmet dinner wit h wine pairing, $125 per person T ickets at Locals Restaurant, Cour tenay, 250 388 6493

Our Mission Statement

OUR SUPPORTING PARTNERS THE PHANTOM DINNER

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For Santas Annonymous

The E AT Magazine Culinar y Ar ts Award

Each year sixteen of Victoria’s top restaurants get together and hold special dinners to help raise funds for the charity Santas Annonymous. Each restaurant hosts eight diner guests who have paid $100 for their seat. The twist is when they purchase their ticket they don’t know which of the restaurants they will be dining at that evening

They find out at a special cocktail reception held earlier on the night of the dinners A draw takes place and each guest is randomly given the name of their restaurant This year $8,000 was raised for the deser ving charity

The menu, entitled ‘ Treasures of the Island’, was indeed a 7 course royal tour of the Island Each of the dishes not only highlighted fine local ingredients but showed of f the kitchen’s prowess

For example: A star ter of side stripe shrimp and Qualicum Bay scallop had been la yered onto an oh so delicat e mille f euille pas tr y and paired wit h an eminentl y lic kable smoked Sun Wing tomato coulis; then, silky chicken liver paté and toothsome rillettes gently slathered a crostini baked with heritage Red Fife wheat (charcuterie at the Empress!) And for the main course wild salmon filet and Queen Charlotte sablefish were rolled up, stuf fed wit h Dungeness crab and ser ved wit h wild s tinging ne ttles and a selection of fresh Madrona Farm vegetables

Desser t from Chef D’Oyen Christie was a winning trifecta of a Butler Farm hazlenut souflé, Hilar y ’ s Blue cheesecake and a small scoop of Sunset Bay honey ice cream

Result? The cooking at the Empress has risen to lof ty heights and now matches its serene and opulent room G H

PHANTOM DINNER SERVICE AWARD

As you can imagine, there’s considerable rivally among the chefs to outdo each other in coming up with a menu that will wow the guests. This year EAT got involved and sponsored the menu competition with a small caveat. We asked competing chefs to include at least one local food on their menu Once the chefs had devised their menu, they got artistic and produced their menus for display at the Bay Center

The Culinary Ar ts Award judges assembled one afternoon to pick the winning menu based on ar tistic presentation, originality, degree of difficulty, scope and best use of local ingredients Each entry was unique and very creative. Overall the judges felt that The Fairmont Empress Hotel best expressed the critiera and Gold was awarded to them.

Guests attending the 2009 Phantom Dinners were asked to vote for their favourite ser ver We are pleased to announce that Kevin Neilson from Vista 18 at Chateau Victoria received the most votes Here’s what guests said “I have never been so impressed in 47 years of dining experiences Every last detail was executed to perfection and was flawless The Food & Beverage Manager (Kevin) hosted us personally, and his local wine pairings were magnificent When we had finished the Vista 18 team furnished us with their business cards and personal invitations to look after our every need should we choose to dine at the restaurant in the future Thanks for making our dreams come true!”

“To celebrate and encourage local, fresh, seasonal and sustainable food and drink in British Columbia.”

The winning menu from the Fairmont Empress Hotel created by Executive Chef Takashi Ito and Empress Dining Room Chef Jef frey Brothers

HONG KONG IS NO LONGER THE FOO DIE C APITAL OF THE MIDDLE KINGDOM

the Chinese dragon has recouped its gastronomic groove but few would dispute its enduring reputation as dim sum capital of the world As simple as a shrimp dumpling or a handful of rice steamed in a lotus leaf, the ar t of the “small bite” is Hong Kong’s gastro nomic pride, a procession of pleasures that seduces as it surprises Sichuan born, self taught chef Ronald Shao of the Hong Kong’s top rated Cuisine, Cuisine lets no gras grow under his feet His stellar dim sum is a deep fried vermicelli roll that be gins with an audible crrrrrunch and leads into the creamy richness of goose liver yes, foie gras. That’s the way they do it in Hong Kong.

Shao also stuffs his dumplings with minced pork and hairy crab roe, so they erupt in the mouth as 21st century surf and turf. He infuses soft sticky rice with crisp lotus root. He reinvents big, fat pork buns with a drizzle of abalone. And he makes his own soy sauce using organic soybeans from Canada

Shao isn’t the only dim sum master in the neighborhood: Last December, Four Seasons chef Yan Tak became the world’s first Chinese chef to garner three Michelin stars

At Four Seasons’ Lung King Heen, diners gawk at columns hand threaded in blood red silk, a ceiling shimmering with silver leaf and green jade napkin holders. It’s the most gorgeous restaurant on Victoria Harbour.

Har gow, the simplest of shrimp dumplings, is a dim sum benchmark: Turn out a lousy har gow and you’re toast. The har gow at Lung King Heen here may be the best in the world, but in this company, it’s a wallflower.

Tak’s Shanghai dumpling gushes with steaming broth. Spring roll stuffed with sea whelk arrives with a whiff of five spice His steamed scallop and lobster dumpling is to swoon for His signature is a gossamer creature, a deep fried layering of scallop, shrimp paste and crisp Asian pear, the whole soaring above the sum of its par ts

I could rattle on about dim sum and the Cantonese canon all day Its history parallels the introduction of tea houses along the fabled Silk Road and the Chinese conversion to tea Silk Roaders liked to snack. At one time, the Silk Road found an eastern terminus in the an cient capital of X ’ian. A few years ago, I ate lunch in a X ’ian restaurant that offers 800 dim sums.

Often likened to French hors d’oeuvres, Middle Eastern mezze and Spanish tapas, dim sum bolts past the others in lightness, variety and ongoing inventiveness. “We create new kinds of dim sum every week,” says Shao “It’s a kind of horse race among Hong Kong chefs ”

Dim sum arrived in the West as the last and most refined wave of Cantonese: Bye, bye, egg roll, hullo, Shanghai dumpling It’s the darling of Toronto and Vancouver Chinese Here in Victoria, it has lately entrenched itself as the only province of foodiedom in which our city might look the mainland straight in the face.

My dim sum craving invariably takes me to Jade Fountain in the bowels of the Red Lion Inn. Surprisingly, it’s a handsome room, closer to Hong Kong flash and dash than Chinatown kitsch. The trolleys roll at lunch and the dim sum menu, in a depar ture from tradition, is available in the evening The mostly Cantonese clientele is plenty pleased: Jade’s packed There are spring rolls for novices and chicken feet to baffle us quai lo the venerable Cantonese term for “foreign devil” but also so much more: My fave dumpling comes stuffed with pork, peanuts, coriander and mushrooms, talk about a mouthful I wouldn’t sniff at the shrimp and Chinese chive dumplings, either, either Ever so delicate open face dumplings of steamed scallop topped with crunchy tobiko nod at the textural play of sushi But if Cantonese is about the vir tue of steaming, it’s also about sin crusted deep fry. The kitchen turns out lovely little shrimp fritters, but its headliner is the seafood roll, a hefty forcemeat of shrimp wrapped in tofu skin deep fried. I haven’t found this one anywhere else, and it’s a beaut. Just remember to push aside, as violently as possible, the accom panying mayo, a bizarre goo recalling elephant semen

In Vic’s only other credible venue, the Pacific in the Grand Pacific, the form goes haute with top of the line ingredients and prices to match BC seafood congee, rice porridge with spot prawns, halibut and salmon, isn’t strictly dim sum, but its velvety rice and juicy seafood justify the trip

A stuffing of barbecued duck kicks the spring roll up a notch, while har gow with pork and tiger prawns proves an unfettered delight with its drizzle of shitake and goji berry juice. The latter, a Tibetan fruit, is supposed to be a youth elixir. How appropriate, a gift of time to savour the dim sum cleverness of tomorrow.

1753 Shawnigan

Mill Bay Rd 250.743.3667 amusebistro.com

Summer Fete

A taste of Taste, Victoria’s first annual festival of food and wine.

TIME WA S VICTORIA SIPPING AND SUPPING MEANT TEA AND SANDWICHES, A C ARVERY and a few Brit style pubs. In recent years, however, an influx of farmers, organic gardeners, bakers, winemakers and cheese makers has made astonishing inroads into the region’s culinary scene. Innovative Island chefs everywhere, from white linen restaurants to hum ble holes in the wall, are putting local on the plate and in the glass year round. If ever there was a time to celebrate the diverse bounty of Vancouver Island, it’s now

When Victoria’s annual February wine fest fizzled out a couple of years back, Kathy McAree (Travel with Taste Tours Ltd ) twigged to the oppor tunity of resurrecting the idea But why not in sync with a food fete, too?

From July 16 19, McAree gathers land, sea and vineyard together in full view of Victoria’s Inner Harbour for Taste, the first annual Victoria Festival of Food and Wine, guaranteed to fire up the taste buds for both in and out of towners.

Thursday night’s “Main Event” at the Crystal G arden uncorks four days chockablock with wine and dine events. Guests will sip from a selection of 150 wines as Island chefs match their creations to the wines Friday morning, McAree (who conducts a regular Saturday morning culinary ramble of her favourite haunts) hosts a special tour as well as an Island Chefs’ Collaborative Farmers’ Market luncheon, a perfect amuse bouche to set up the palate for the events to come, a few of which follow

Friday evening, Emory Haines, director of operations at Hotel Grand Pacific, with help from hotel chef Rick Choy, will spit roast a Sloping Hills porker for Pig and Pinot on the Patio. “I grew up raising and roasting pigs and am so looking forward to the event,” says Haines. Or go classic German, par tnering several Rieslings to Sloping Hills pork under the tutelage of Mission Hill’s Ingo Grady, also at Grand Pacific Hotel just prior to Pig and Patio.

Of course not everyone’s a wine geek. So over at The Inn at Laurel Point, Matt Phillips, brewmaster for Phillips Brewery, teams up with the hotel’s executive chef Brad Horen and Finest At Sea’s Bob Fraumeni later on Friday evening in the name of craft made suds and local seafood Fraumeni jumps ship to shore with oysters, wild salmon and mussels, right off the boat

Saturday afternoon, chocoholics (and who isn’t one?) can learn all about the cacao bean while indulging in chocolate with exper t David Mincey at Camille’s Restaurant Saturday evening’s wild salmon and cider feast at Ocean Pointe Resor t brings together live jazz piano, fresh local salmon and the cider knowledge of Merridale Cidery’s Jason Child.

The weekend will include a fair share of wine education. And what better advocates for B.C. wines than writer John Schreiner and B.C. wine personality David Scholefield. Schreiner’s Friday morning seminar champions island wines “You’d be hard pressed to find such crisp, high acid, fruit driven and distinctive wines anywhere else,” says Schreiner Meanwhile David Scholefield lauds Ehrenfelser and Schonberger, among B C ’s less famil iar varietals, in Out of the Box on Friday afternoon “We need to celebrate, not apologize for, these unique and wonderful, aromatic wines,” says Scholefield G als who know their

Taste organizer Kathy McAree with Rober t Fraumeni, owner of Finest At Sea

S h e r r i K o s t i a n

2nd Place - Best of Vancouver Island, 20th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards

Only 35 minutes from downtown Victoria

by Julie Pegg

grapes will share their winemaking secrets and passions with Scholefield at Women of B.C. Wine on Saturday morning.

On Sunday, festival goers can form a brunch bunch for Band, Bubbles and Bennys at Vista 18 or a late al fresco Tuscan lunch among the flowers at Butchar t’s Italian G arden Or jump on the bus (actually a chauffeured mini coach) and head to Bill Jones’s Deerholme Farm in the Cowichan Valley for Surf and Turf Forager Bill and food journalist Don Genova will titillate the taste buds with eight dishes such as pasture raised stuffed chicken and Dungeness crab with garlic shoots and morels.

The lion’s share of Taste’s schedule takes place at The Inn at Laurel Point and Hotel Grand Pacific. Both lodgings will offer special rates on rooms and are mere steps from a stroll along the seawall, an amble through historic James Bay or a walk in Beacon Hill Park be tween wining and dining.

For information on these and more Taste experiences, including price, schedule, loca tion and ticket sales, go to www VictoriaTaste com

Judgment in Cobble Hill

by Larry Arnold

Recently, just before lunch, at a pristine little winery nestled on the side of a hill over looking the beautiful Cowichan Valley, a small rabble of wine aficionados gathered to pass judgment on twelve pinot noirs from across the globe There were five wines from Burgundy (the promised land), three from Vancouver Island (the new kid on the block), two from California (don’t count em out), one from Oregon (the heir apparent) and finally one from New Zealand (the dark horse)

The judges were a mixed bunch of raconteurs and curmudgeons, some of consider able notoriety, but all with a smattering of talent There were winemakers present but none were on the panel. The wines were decanted and poured blind to remove label bias and the tasting commenced with considerable relish! The assignment was to ascer tain a qualitative score for each of the twelve

Considering the pedigree of the

the results came as a bit of a surprise! In order of preference:

Food as Medicine

Science and business are fuelling the “functional food” trend.

Today’s health conscious consumers are looking to food as more than a source of energy they also see its health benefits and potential for preventing disease. And they have good reason Scientific research continues to reveal that specific compo nents of foods, such as antioxidants and fatty acids, possess unique health promot ing qualities Not surprisingly, these bene ficial components are being incorporated into a new group of products called “func tional foods,” designed for specific health concerns and to satisfy consumer demand for foods both healthy and convenient.

B C ’s own Born 3 Eggs are a perfect ex ample of a “functional food ” Ordinary eggs are a completely healthy food full of vita mins and minerals but enhanced with Omega 3 fatty acids they become a func tional food that may help prevent hear t dis ease. Another homegrown player in the functional food world is Island Farm’s new Pro Plus Yogur t. Pro Plus, an all natural, probiotic yogur t, contains two special strains of probiotic culture proved to en hance both immune function and intestinal well being It also contains a prebiotic fibre (as does the new Cottage Cheese Plus) that helps regulate the digestive system While Pro Plus is Island Farm’s first entry into the functional food industry, it won’t, according to marketing manager Jona DeJesus, be the last. “It’s really the trend,” she explains, “and it’s consumer driven there’s an in creased awareness and focus on health Danone really changed the scene when they introduced Activia and launched its ad campaign it increased people’s aware ness of the link between probiotics and di gestive health.” Activia yogur t contains a specific strain of probiotic proven to pro

mote regularity. Since the U.S. launch of Ac tivia, the sales of probiotic yogur ts in Nor th America have more than doubled.

Functional food is big business indeed the worldwide market is projected to reach 109 billion U S by 2010 according to indus try exper ts Even beverage giant Coca Cola is focusing on the trend It recently opened a research centre for Chinese Medicine in Beijing to “develop new and innovative beverages that incorporate the preventa tive and holistic proper ties of Chinese Med icine.”

While the trend is undeniable, not every one is cheering it on Local chef Michael Williams, who co authored the book Gourmet Nutrition: The Cookbook for the Fit Food Lover, maintains, “I still preach local, seasonal and fresh Food should be eaten in its most natural state; it’s a far bet ter taste experience. Why put green tea ex tract in a cereal why not just enjoy a delicious matcha latte?” And W H ICH, a U.K. based consumer group, argues that while products made with added functional ingredients like probiotics, omega 3s or plant sterols may be beneficial for cer tain people, they may also be unsuitable for others with cer tain conditions And not all functional foods are inherently healthy that cereal or cookie with pomegranate or acai extract added may also contain trans fats, preser vatives or excessive sweeten ers.

Still, functional foods with optimal, healthy ingredients can play a significant role in promoting well being and reducing the risk of disease You just need to read la bels and choose wisely

by Pam Durkin

Tom Henry

“Everything I said is bullshit” is Tom Henry’s final remark of our inter view This modest dismissal of his pearls of wisdom galvanize his addition to EAT ’s “local heroes” list. Make no mistake, Henry has pulled off some heroic deeds for Vancouver Island’s local food scene, but he’d be the last to gloat about it (so we’ll do that for him)

Duncan born and raised, Henry star ted out as a staff writer at Victoria’s Monday Magazine, then penned a hand ful of books (mostly about the West Coast lifestyle) before becoming co cre ator and editor of Small Farm Canada. In Henry’s words, it’s a how to magazine that leads farmers through the finicky business of building chicken coops, sheering sheep and plotting crops But it thickens the plot with a few think pieces on, say, the re evaluation of food miles or the politics of climate change Add to this Henry’s opening editorial pieces, which lean toward the rambling, armchair philosopher vernacular (with more than a grain or two of true wis dom), and you have a noble little publi cation that farmers I know from Nova Scotia to Ontario refer to regularly Nice work if you can get it, but throw in one more credential and here’s where Henry’s effor ts sound downright, well, heroic; he’s also a farmer

He’s a farmer who grows and supplies wheat to Wildfire Bakery in Victoria, True Grain in Cowichan Bay, plus a couple of independent bakeries in Vancouver He’s a farmer who raises the extraordinarily flavourful lamb you taste in The Pink Bicycle’s burgers or pick up at local butchers. And if you bought holly at Christmas from Thrifty Foods, chances are it came from Henry’s farm. In other words, not only does Henry write about building a local food system, he’s doing it. So what does this guy, who grows the food, connects with the consumer, and then writes about the process have to say about Vancouver Island’s food system?

“ The local food movement [on Vancouver Island] is like the Reformation,” Henry says “Conventional agriculture is like the Catholic Church collapsing Farmland is sitting fallow because people are leaving the old farms ” The old system has broken down, but Henry sees new ingenuity rushing in to fill the void “ There’s an ever increasing number of vine yards on the island, small pig operations are popping up, new products like mead are being made, there are more berry patches, more agritourism. It’s a whole new kind of agricul ture.” And, Henry tells me, meeting the new kind of farmers is a new kind of consumer. “Consumers are star ting to ask tougher questions,” he says. They want to know how beef was raised, what practices a vintner uses on her grapes, how the chickens that made their eggs live

So what needs to be improved if Vancouver Island is to have a strong local food system? “We’re doing well on the producer and consumer ends, but in the middle the infrastructure is almost non existent There are a lot of middlemen sheep shearers, veterinarians, heavy duty farm mechanics, the people who run abattoirs that have disappeared They are the silent par tners and there is a real urgency for them. A 55 year old sheep producer on Salt Spring Island sells his flock and there’s no one there to take it on and that knowl edge is lost. That’s how systems collapse.”

Small Farm Canada addresses some of these issues, and Tom Henry, who speaks at food security conventions, spreads the word in more ways than one But at the end of the day (and the beginning and somewhere in the middle), it is probably his work on the farm that makes the most headway In a recent editorial, he wrote, “In the curious bi polar world I live in magazine editor by day, small farmer by evenings and weekends the magazine tends to benefit from the farm more than the other way around ” It’s one thing to preach about it, quite another to practice it. Living his message to produce and suppor t locally, to make connections between the producer and the consumer, is what makes Tom Henry a real food hero. www.smallfarmcanada.ca

For a limited time.

tapas + wine nights

is summer, Executive Chef Dave Roger is proud to present a new tantalizing Tapas menu. Pair this with our specially priced $20 bottles of wine from our exclusive feature sheet available on ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Visit www.marriottvictoria.com/ rewater to view menus.

728 Humboldt Street in the Victoria Marriott Tel: (250) 480-3828

* Special Tapas menu available daily, $20 bottles of select wine features are available on ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm to 10pm, July 1 – August 31, 2009 only. Minimum purchase of one Tapas order per person required in order to take advantage of the specially priced wine. Not valid with any other o er. Promotion subject to end without notice.

Magazine editor by day, farmer by night and weekends, Metchosin wheat, sheep and holly farmer

Tom Henr y practices what he preaches.

CHEF’S TALK

LaRistorante iola

by Ceara Lornie

Keeping ItLocal

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Locale

WorkingIn Partnership The Best of Italy and Vancouver Island

Epiphany

A cooking epiphany is a blinding moment of culinary clarity a leap of u n d e r s t a n d i n g s o m e t h i n g that changes you forever. Tell us about your food epiphany. When, what and where?

Laurie Munn Cafe Brio 250 383 0009

I don't think that I have ever had an epiphany but if I was to, I would hope the blinding light would show me a career in which I don't worry every day about the restaurant However as far as culinary moments go, I can remember being a young cook working in Vancouver when Michel Bras' Essential Cuisine came out. The work in the book was humbling yet inspiring. It al ways motivates me to redouble my effor ts in the kitchen to try and achieve something good Ian Dufton Canoe Brewpub, Marina and Restaurant 250.361.1940

When I was six years old, traveling with my foodie parents, we went to Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons. After dinner, Raymond Blanc came out to the dining room to see the three young children behaving so well and and asked us if we liked his cooking I looked up and told him “No, I think my mom’s cooking is better”. My mother is the real influence for me. Of course it did n’t hur t my decision to become a chef when she told me I had to get a job after dropping out of university

Alberto Pozzolo Italian Baker y 250 388 4557

I was on a cycling tour in Europe and was star ved after riding all day. I tried to make the staple food for a born Italian, Pasta al Pomodoro I had cooked for myself a little bit but when one’s mother’s cooking is so good, one does not pay too much attention to the details Here I was hun gry and eventually disappointed that the meal that I had tasted in my mind was so disappoint ing on my palate My epiphany came at that moment with this ‘simple’ dish I learned to pay attention to all the details and most of all watch my mamma very attentively

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545

My first real cooking job was at a homey brewpub that made all their product from scratch. It shared a huge prep kitchen with its sophisticated sister restaurant upstairs Previously I had been drawn to less vir tuous operations specializing in all kinds of one eyebrow raising, cost saving schemes and standing there shoulder to shoulder with seasoned chefs was a unique ex perience I obser ved and questioned them as they dressed quail and stirred risotto while I was frying tor tillas and grating cheese!

Peter Whatmough Brentwoodbay Lodge and Spa 250.544.2079

I was 18 years old in France and it was my first experience with foie gras There is an old saying: A truly wise man accepts and understands that he knows very little and has a lot to learn I have hung on to that feeling and probably will for the rest of my life. It keeps me striving to be the best.

Jonathan Frazier Atlas Café 250.338.9838

When I was cooking on an expedition boat in the Queen Charlottes I had to come up with some thing special for dinner using bull kelp that the guests had harvested. I’m not sure where the idea came from, I wrapped halibut in bull kelp fronds with bull kelp chutney. I don’t think I’ve ever had such rave reviews from a meal

A aron Rail Avenue Bistro 250 890 9200

Seeing the reactions of people who truly appreciate and enjoy my food fuels my creativity and leads to some of my most inspired creations I heard a customer rave about a dish I made a cou ple of months ago and it reminded me that it’s not just about putting food on the table, it’s about feeding the senses.

Mara Jernigan Fairburn Farm 250.746.4637

My food epiphany was on my 19th bir thday I was working for the Eaton family as summer help I noticed the cooks always got the gratitude but no one ever gushed about how clean their bath room was. I was helping Mrs. Jurch shuck fresh peas from the garden. "What is it like to be a cook?" I asked "Be a cook!" she told me, “While you may not get rich you will enjoy the finer things in life even better then those who are rich because you will learn to understand and ap preciate them". That fall I enrolled in George Brown College. That was 26 years ago and I haven't looked back since!

Robert Belcham Fuel 604 288 7905

In 2003 I spent time at my friend Grant Achatz’s restaurant Trio. I had worked with Grant while at the French Laundry and was interested in the direction he was taking with his menu This was when molecular gastronomy was a four letter word My epiphany came while standing in his kitchen and seeing the encapsulation technique. It opened up a cascade of questions. It was the simple act of not accepting what had come before as fact Question everything

Cory Pel an La Piola 250.388.4517

I was about 10 years old and I complained about the lunch. I don’t remember what it consisted of but I’m sure it was the obligatory sandwich and the ever present “Wagon Wheel” I was told in no uncer tain terms that if I didn’t like what they made for me then I would now be making my own lunch. The epiphany occurred during the first week of making, or more correctly, crafting my own lunches. I began walking home from school and spending the lunch hour creating what I thought were culinary masterpieces based on leftovers, my Dad’s spice rack and a massive condi ment collection in the fridge. I was forced to create good tasting food on my own and realized im mediately that I loved doing it. I do miss my Wagon Wheels though.

by Julie Pegg

Summer Tartares

Fruits and veggies take on a meaty issue

“

THERE IS MORE SIMPLICIT Y IN THE MAN WHO EATS C AVIAR ON IMPULSE THAN IN THE man who eats grape nuts on principle,” wrote G.K. Chester ton in an essay entitled On San dals and Simplicity. I echo Chester ton’s opinion when it comes to steak tar tare and All Bran When the whim strikes, lead this woman to the best quality sirloin in the hands of a trusty butcher Massage that raw beef with a free range egg yolk, chopped Italian parsley, chives, capers, good grainy sea salt and coarse black pepper Shape it into a little mound G arnish with a few micro greens tossed in a bit of olive oil and lemon juice, toasted baguette on the side That's tar tare heaven

Steak tar tare owes its name to the 13th century Tar tar Hordes who are reputed to have placed slices of horsemeat beneath their saddles. Sweaty leather and bumpy travels mar inated and tenderized the meat. The Tar tars would chop the raw meat, add caper berries and spices and chow down.

Little seems to have been written about how this rough and tough horsemeat dish evolved into beef tartare and eventually became haute cuisine among the fine dining rooms of New York during the early 1900s It remained a popular menu item for 50 years

With the rise of vegetarianism in the 1960s, however, consuming raw meat began to lose ground The outbreak of Mad Cow disease in the 1980s doomed steak tar tare, and we saw salmon and tuna tar tare take its place But with folks hankering for unfussy foods and tak ing more care about where their meat comes from, steak tar tare is now enjoying a bit of a comeback.

Is it possible to capture the same freshness and texture of a meat tar tare with veggies?

Tar tares concocted entirely of vegetables or fruit are currently popular and owe their burst of flavour to pristine ingredients. As with their beefy predecessor, the elements are brought together with a sharp blade, piquant seasonings and tangy vinaigrette

What a superb way to celebrate B C ’s organic bounty ripe heirloom tomatoes, break fast radishes, purple carrots, the greenest of cukes, yellow and orange peppers, baby zuc chini, bright berries, new nugget potatoes and herbs at their peak And though tar tare means raw when it comes to meat, new potatoes, squash, leeks and others need blanch ing or steaming before going under the knife.

Tar tares & Carpaccios with Friends by Marie Victoire G arcia (Hachette Illustrated U K, 2004; try www.abebooks.com/Canada or www.amazon.ca) is an inexpensive primer on prepping tar tares. G arcia advises on refrigeration and health concerns right at the outset. As for the recipes, I experimented with three vegetable/fruit tar tares. Cucumber and dill on ar tichoke hear ts (Belgian endive “boats” subbing for the ar tichokes) were superb G arcia failed to mention, though, that very firm cheese is needed for the tomato and feta tar tare (Creamy feta simply dissolves into the tomato’s juice ) Instead of the called for basil and lemon juice, coriander leaves and white balsamic vinegar accented a strawberry tar tare I tossed tiny nugget potatoes, kalamata olives, green onions, sweet/hot banana peppers, yogur t, lemon and oregano. (My meat and spud spouse went gaga over that one.) Radishes, red onion, potatoes (again) with fresh herbs and olive oil went splendidly with grilled lamb chops. Mini sweet peppers, cukes, tomatoes and Fraser Valley’s Farmstead goat’s milk cheese needed little more than a dash of olive oil and some crusty bread as ac companiment Each tar tare took on a zip and a zing that was quite apar t from a chunkier salad using the same elements

This summer, get fresh with a fruit or veggie tar tare Don’t forget that sip of chilled dry rose or zesty dry white wine along with it And if the mood should strike, don’t be afraid to try steak tar tare It won’t kill you

Bistrot Pastis (2153 W 4th Ave , Vancouver, 604 731 5020) ser ves steak tar tare with cornichons and twice cooked frites It’s the best in town

1 Wash and deseed one pound red or yellow (or combo) pear, g rape, or c her r y tomatoes

(Deseeding is optional I don't bother )

2 Cut tomaotes in half

3. Dice and mix 8 oz fine quality firm feta (Gor ts from Salmon Arm is a good local choice) with one tbsp. extra virgin olive oil and a handful of chif fonaded basil leaves (To chif fonade stack and roll leaves into a tight bundle and slice into strips with a sharp knife )

4 Pour cheese mixture over tomatoes and blend gently 5. Divide the mixture among four ramekins Dec orate with a few whole basil leaves 6. Salt dish to taste with coarse sea salt Go spar ingly if feta is ver y salty

7. Mozzarella or r icott a can sub in for f e t a. Tender tarragon leaves make a nice change from basil

“So, Edward, if you’re the chef, what is Gemma’s title?”

“We’re both owners. I am not “Chef.” Can we go with that?”

Umm Sure, yeah, I guess Except that he is Edward Tuson, who was Sooke Harbour House’s executive chef for twelve years Edward Tuson, celebrated for his handmade charcuterie and sausages as well as for his inventive obsessive talent and drive for delicious and meticu lously crafted local cuisine

Edward Tuson and longtime sweethear t Gemma Claridge opened The Edge Restaurant in Sooke mid May Gemma, prolific events and sales coordinator, actor and quintessential host ess with the mostess, describes how it came to be, “It was the right place, right time, one of those ‘just worked’ things,” she beams and sets down my lunch before greeting the onslaught of curious guests with her matchless grace and warmth.

The soup of the day is curried cauliflower soup with green olives and housemade pulled pork The mild curry, gentle olive and rich pork were an unlikely but tasty and titillating three some

Next, I tried the housemade pork sausage with smoked paprika, garlic, onion, cumin, co riander seed, salt and pepper with sautéed peppers, mushrooms, onions and Dijon mayo in a crusty roll with hand cut fries I had the best intentions of packing half of the sausage home for my man, but the rich beauty of it siren sang me

“It’s great,” responds Edward when asked how is he finding co owning his own restaurant so far. Should have done this a long time ago? “No, now I have a reputation, which is going to help the restaurant this is good.”

Edge Restaurant is located on Sooke Road, the main drag, and it used to be a fish and chips shop When asked why this large step away from the international high end restaurant experience, Tuson replies, “I ser ve what I eat That is what it is I want to cater to the people who I live near We have homey, yummy food that people can relate to ” I forwent desser ts, which included pear spring rolls with whipped cream cheese and apple

syrup and the lemon tar tlette with maple cream, house made ice cream and caramel sauce There were, how ever, couples to my left and right fighting over the last shared bites of each.

Instead, I went for another main: the Kitchen Sink Bowl. Housemade chicken sausage with herbes de Provence, local seafood, greens and cilantro in a sweet and sour Asian broth that came on sweet then mel lowed to leave plenty of room to fully appreciate the fresh local seafood and succulent sausage

The restaurant also boasts a well researched kid menu that includes mac and cheese, egg white dipped panko crusted fish and chips and grilled cheese Housemade ice cream and chocolate sprinkles cour tesy of Kealyn, Gemma Claridge’s five year old daughter

Edge (Ed for Edward, Ge for Gemma) is open, roomy and Crayola colourful. The kitchen staff spor t T shir ts. The atmosphere is relaxed, but there is an undercurrent of gen erous pride that whispers, “ This is going to be good ” Lunches are all under $13 and the dinner menu, which includes braised pork shank with potato bacon jus and thyme oil and cornflake crusted salmon with vegetable fried rice and housemade Chinese sausage with mains all under $23. The Edge Restaurant’s ethos is clear; everyone is genuinely welcome and the food is fantastic.

The next time I go for lunch I am trying the creamy linguine with braised lamb, peas, mush rooms, chives and parmesan and the Caesar salad with housemade bacon Get ye to Sooke to check it out Tuesday Saturday 11:30 3:00 p m for lunch and 5:30 9:00 p m for dinner by Gillie Easdon

Devour | 762 Broughton St., Victoria | 250.590.3231

Half the fun of visiting Victoria is tracking down the blink and you’ll miss ’em eateries about town ser ving very good “fast slow food”: whipping into PIG’s kiosk for pulled pork on a bun for five bucks, all in; popping by Choux Choux Charcuterie for the day’s sandwich and a brief chat with fellow Muskoka ite Luke Young; or chowing down on one of Hernandez’ made from scratch tacos On a friend’s recommendation, I also checked out Devour, a wee café on Broughton, catty corner from the Royal Theatre

What a terrific (if sparsely outfitted) little spot A dozen or so meeting room cur ved back chairs crowd around four square cafeteria tables, perfect for pushing together should a group of seven want to convene A couple of two tush benches along one wall afford a view of white dinner plates, a blue creuset and a red tagine perched on handmade shelves Thyme, oregano and sage thrive in galvanized pots along the front window.

Order off the blackboard or printed menu from the butcher block cash counter. I went for the slow roasted lamb on grilled flatbread, requesting an add on of half Israeli couscous salad/half greens. The meat, cooked until fork tender, was sliced atop bubbly, crisp house made flatbread (I think it was naan ) A dollop of tangy raita topped the lot Fresh mint en livened the tiny pasta pearls Saanich Organics was responsible for the micro greens (Most of Devour’s products are locally sourced ) A tumbler of lemon enhanced water from the Kool Aid pitchers on the sideboard was drink enough

lef t : Kitc hen Sink Bowl

right : Edward Tuson

While perusing a couple of the cookbooks scattered about the shelves, I inhaled the homey smells from a pork and duck tour tiere just out of the oven (A whole tour tiere is available for takeaway, feeds eight to 10 and includes tomato chutney ) Duck and pork also performed a confit and terrine duet on French baguette

Other menu choices consisted of six grain rice and roasted chicken with fresh asparagus as well as a sandwich consisting of thick slabs of whole grain bread stuffed with caponata, roasted vegetable and goat cheese. Nothing clocked in over ten bucks.

A stern wind whipped up while I was there, threatening to cancel my late afternoon flight. The genuinely concerned ser ver/cashier quickly bagged the rest of my food. Good thing, too. I, and the rest of my lunch on the run, hastened to the terminal just in time for me to down the remains of lamb and couscous in view of the check in crew and catch an earlier plane

After that, I think half the Harbour Air staff headed to Devour for lunch by Julie Pegg

Veneto | 1450 Douglas | 250.383.7 310

Veneto’s got style And no, I am not talking Italy, but the Rialto Hotel in Victoria, the site of a serious and successful makeover.

Amble up to the gorgeous marble bar and slide into a high backed stool. Bar tenders Josh and Holly will muddle you up a Sazerac, Pisco Sour or pour you a flight of three 2 oz wines for $10. With floor to ceiling windows, 20 ft ceilings and generous use of wood, conscious lighting, space and perpendicular lines in design, veneto is classy and hip (and yes, we are talking about Victoria )

This new “urban lounge” is not only a funky and refreshing much needed addition to the evening options in Victoria, but the approach and delivery of the menu and professional and sincere ser vice is irresistible

The Tapa Style Entrées (prepared three ways) are listed by protein; beef, tuna, lamb, chicken, crab and shrimp. I went for the crab. The blue crab spring roll with fresh cilantro and smoked chipotle dressing was fresh, satisfying, and void of filler ingredients. The Cre ole crab cake with roasted corn salsa and chipotle tar tar sauce was lovely. But it was the crab and ricotta stuffed pasta shell baked with Creole parmesan gratin that gave me pause with pleasure It was sumptuous and well balanced and delicious They arrived on three square white plated embedded in a beautiful narrow wooden platter I often translate “tapa” as pretty and pretty small This three par t tapa is the perfect light meal and at $14, I am keen to sample the lamb entrée soon, with the jumbo shrimp and goat cheese stuffed lamb chop with cranberry Texas red wine sauce Tod Bosence, veneto’s chef has really done a beautiful job

Veneto is open Monday Sunday 4pm 1am (Yes, Sundays and Mondays!)

by Gillie Easdon

y t Dail

tea tastin

Daily tea tastings

Visit the unique Tea Tasting Bar at Silk Road, and transform your understanding and appreciation of tea. Whether you are a beginner, or a tea lover already, we’re sure you’ll see tea in an entirely new light!

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Tea Tasting Journeys take place daily at 2 pm throughout the summer (from July 1 to the first weekend in September), and weekly from September to the end of June.

45 min. rox lef t : The tiny but clever Devour interior right : Pork skewered w/ romanesco sauce and blac k t hai rice salad

Road, at Silk pp y is a ourne asting J T Tea Each RD COWICHAN VALLEY HIGHWAY LAKERD. COWICHAN T r aHWY

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Each Tea Tasting Journey is approx. 45 min. $10 per person Drop in, register by calling 250 704 2688 or email silkroad@silkroadtea.com.

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

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The Urban Cup Café |

3690 Shelbourne Street | 250.477.7741

I love places that feel like a secret They’re tucked away, known only to a neighbourhood, or so plain looking on the exterior that they don’t invite fur ther exploration Urban Cup on Shelbourne Street at Cedar Hill Cross Road is such a place I had driven by several times a week without stepping in until a foodie tipster nudged me to go. And now I love it. It’s a modest café, but a café that takes care, prepares all its own foods, and boasts an owner who used to be a head chef at Pescatore’s. Owners Jeff and Cindy Smith live walking distance from the Urban Cup, and they have created this friendly nook for the neighbours to have a peaceful meeting place with food and baked goods you’d expect somewhere more high end The Chicken Panini with Onion Jam for $7.25 is one such ex ample. The chicken is roasted just a few feet away in the spacious kitchen, and is tucked into

Chicken Cobb Sandwich bacon, avocado, blue cheese mayo, spinach, tomato

Cheese and c harcuterie plate: Avonlea white cheddar, Oyama Berkshire Saucisson, Pear butter, Olive Oil crostini, chicken liver pate.

an evenly toasted golden panini with translucent slices of Granny Smith apple and a de lectable onion jam caramelized red onions sautéed with bay leaf and thyme, and deglazed with red wine vinegar and honey (Secret note to owners please star t bottling and selling the onion jam, pleeeease ) With so many chickens roasting every day, it follows that Urban Cup makes its own soup stocks, which appear as bases in the roasted chicken with corn chowder soup and the creamiest split pea soup I’ve had Ser ved with a cheese and herb scone, this is priced at $2 95 for a small bowl, and $4 50 for a large one And speaking of baked goods, do not leave without having a tender, multi spiralled cinnamon bun for $2.95, or one of the creative muffins the peach and raspberry muffin is cakey, fruity, and moist. The same kind of care is taken with the coffee and tea. The former is local and highly re garded Fernwood Coffee Company brand, and the tea is Mighty Leaf brand; I now under stand what chamomile is supposed to taste like. Urban Cup provides quality and community in what looks like little more than a strip mall be prepared for a surprise

Phyllo’s Deli and Catering | #219-3749 Shelbourne St. | 250.381.4800

Almost completely hidden from the street is another neighbourhood favourite, Phyllo’s Deli and Catering, again at Shelbourne and Cedar Hill Cross Road, be hind the PetroCan Owner Ramsay has been in the food business for 30 years, moving from Spain to Montreal to Vancouver before opening up this Mediterranean deli. There is an eating counter and a couple of tables, but mostly this is a take out joint with filling, hear ty food. EAT readers always love an exotic ingredient, so be sure to try the moist chicken thighs baked with pomegranate molasses and Tus can herbs Another entrée that came as a pleasant surprise was the shepherd’s pie; it’s Balkan style, which is quite different from the British style with ground beef Instead, it’s a very tasty pork stew, com plete with green and red peppers, mushrooms, car rots, celery, and lots of onions, all topped with mashed potatoes. Dishes from the entrée menu are $9.25, ser ved with potatoes, or rice, or salad. The deli counter boasts dolmades, spanakopita, and cabbage rolls, the latter of which Ramsay assured me fit into the Mediterranean theme as they’re a Balkan dish All of these dishes are good value because they’re fat and filling The dolmades sparkle with lemon flavor; the spanakopita are ear thy and dense; and the vegetarian cabbage rolls get substance from the toothsome lentils mixed in with the rice Crème caramel for desser t at the cost of $3 50 fits into the overall theme of dishes at Phyllo’s big and affordable

Coastal Kitchen Café | Parkinson Rd., Por t Renfrew | 250.647.5533

Winding along the narrowing road to Por t Renfrew, musing about tide pools, mystic moss and bears, I realize I am hungry. “Damn.” I kick myself for not picking up something along the way. What was I possibly going to find in Por t Renfrew? I am so wrong sometimes

My sweethear t and I pull up to the first place we see, Coastal Kitchen Café The parking lot is packed A couple of young kids sit at the wooden stools outside the rustic log building

The licensed (lovely!) Coastal Kitchen Café is hopping. We hang out on a sofa, flipping through a few books and games and checking out the décor, which includes foosball, a crib and myriad fishing relics from the early 1900s, including a colossal salmon boiler net “ The West Coast trail stretches from Bamfield to Por t Renfrew I hiked the trail one day and never went back,” jokes chef/owner Jessica Hicks, who was born and raised in Bamfield The original Coastal Kitchen Café opened in 2001, but it burned down later that year in a fire that destroyed par t of the original Por t Renfrew Hotel.

Luckily for Por t Renfrew, Jessica Hicks stayed, slicing and dicing with her baby at her hip The substantial menu is highlighted by a blackberry vinaigrette with locally sourced berries and a delicious mess of local seafood Popular items are the fish and chips, Sooke clams, the halibut burger with a housemade black bean salsa and the thin crust pizza with smoked salmon, pesto and garlic tiger prawns.

We try the sautéed scallops with bacon and white wine as well as the calamari The scal lops are fresh and tender and the bacon doesn’t overpower the flavours but works well to bal ance the dish. The calamari is hand cut that day and not too heavy on the batter nor overfried. Beautiful.

Coastal Kitchen Café has an upbeat, inclusive atmosphere Jessica Hicks prides herself on it being “really welcoming for family, but we also have a bit of a pub atmosphere as well ”

Open seven days a week, 7 a m 11 p m , with live music on Saturdays, Coastal Kitchen Café is a must if you are heading out for a day trip to Por t Renfrew and the area. Or if you are heading out for the night, check out Soule Creek Lodge as well. Gillie Easdon

Spring has Sprung 3 courses for $33

waterfront restaurant + patio

Floor-to-ceiling views of Victoria’s sparkling Inner Harbour West Coast Pacific Rim-inspired cuisine Sunday brunch Large waterfront patio Gold medal chefs

680 MONTREAL STREET VICTORIA BC CANADA V8V 1Z8

T 250.414.6739 TF 1.800.663.7667 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA

Ramsay Ataya

A Little Fishy

B . C . ’s s m a l l e r f i s h e s a re t a s t i e r, h e a l t h i e r a n d m o re p l e n t i f u l t h a n their

If you’ve ever tasted what Blue Water Café’s Frank Pabst or Vista 18 chef G arrett Schack do to a sardine, you might wonder how it’s possible that, despite the abundance of these critters in our Pacific waters, you can’t find them at the fish counter. You won’t easily find Pacific herring, smelts or mackerel either. These fish are cheap, relatively plentiful, healthy and pri marily being shipped overseas or used for bait, fish food or oil There’s some thing a little, well, fishy about that.

Let’s face it, we British Columbians aren’t known for our tendencies toward tiny. From our huge mountain ranges and diminishing swaths of old growth forests, to our seemingly endless wild shorelines, we think B IG. And, as with most things, when we think of the fish we want for dinner, we gravitate toward the big guys, even if, as many old Atlantic fishermen will tell you, they are dis tinctly less tasty than their smaller cousins Real fish, they will insist, taste like, well, fish. Many turn their noses up at B.C. staples such as halibut or ling cod. These pros will tell you that next to the humble mackerel or sardine, big fish re ally don’t or cer tainly shouldn’t have much taste of their own. And they’re

why aren’t we eating them?

By Karen Platt

right A halibut is like a blank canvas; its flavour is really delivered by a palette of herbs or sauces. It’s not that it’s bad; it’s just that on its own, it’s rather dull.

But the smaller pelagic species those fish that spend most of their lives swimming in the water column rather than resting on the bottom are usually abundant and, when perfectly fresh, wonderfully flavourful in and of them selves In fact, most cultures that have a relationship with the sea also have a long history of edible delicacies celebrating these fish. The first time you pop a sardine freshly caught, salted and slightly blackened from the barbie into your mouth, you’ll know why. The experience is easily found in many European coastal countries but is vir tually non existent here in B.C. As I was to discover, these fish can be made available to a determined chef, but they are not so easy to find for the home cook.

I became interested in these smaller species when, last summer, I stood in the Lund General Store mar velling at a stack of anchovies, frozen, packaged and ready for … bait. My husband’s attempts to catch anything from the deck of our boat for over a week had been fruitless and I was craving fresh fish. I had also

larger and threatened cousins. Then

just finished reading Taras Grescoe’s Bottomfeeder, a compelling examination of the state of the world’s fisheries. Suddenly, those anchovies struck a chord. I pondered the seemingly empty ocean as Chris reminisced about childhood cruises with the family, when his Dad would snag a salmon (or two or three) within minutes of dropping his line into the water In our last three summers sailing these waters, we have caught exactly nothing I didn’t need statistics to tell me I needed to rethink the fish I ate

It struck me as ironic that although the big fish had all but disappeared, there were others that were cheap, plentiful, good for us and considered by much of the world as both sta ple and delicacy. But we were using them merely to catch other larger species or worse, grind ing them into meal to supply fish farms. Where were these fish and others like them sardines, smelts, mackerel, herring on our menus? These pelagic creatures, rich in oil, easy to prepare and truly delicious, are so disregarded in our culture they are condemned to becoming pellets Our experience of sardines for human consumption is limited to that small flat tin that has sat unused in the pantry for years No wonder we turn up our noses And yet, as our big fish become increasingly scarce and exceedingly expensive, we are left with a choice: go small or go home Yes, these fish are the staple diet for larger fish, mam mals and birds, and some would argue that our feeding on them would ultimately result in the same impact on those species. But they are also prolific breeders, currently abundant and, in the case of sardines, fairly well managed. And because they are fished primarily with purse seines, catching them has minimal environmental impact and bycatch (other species caught other than the ones being fished for). They are considered a “best choice” by Ocean Wise, SeaChoice and other environmental groups.

“If we just varied our diet a small bit and stayed away from the big species, we’d be doing our oceans a big favour,” Grescoe told me

Some of our local chefs have taken up the challenge Frank Pabst, executive chef at Blue Water Café in Vancouver, and G arrett Schack of Victoria’s Vista 18 are two of these pioneers Pabst runs an annual festival of “Unsung Heroes,” showcasing small, overlooked species such as urchin, mackerel and gooseneck barnacles, as well as sardines. “It is a responsibil ity of a chef to make people aware that these products aren’t as ‘offending’ as some might think,” says Pabst. “We create complementary flavours that marry well with the fish. People are surprised how good they are. Our response to the festival increases every year.”

Last spring, in hopes of showcasing some of Vancouver Island’s lesser known species, Schack contacted Julie Bell of Seaside Marketing, a supplier of sustainable fish and seafood based in Steveston Bell had never delivered to the Island, despite the fact that the biggest sardine catches are actually off Por t Alberni and the nor thern Island shores “ There simply hadn’t been enough demand,” she told me A determined Schack pulled together a group of chefs from Zambri’s, Brasserie L’Ecole, Camille’s and Niche to maximize an order and minimize shipping costs. Bell couriered 250 pounds of fresh sardines to them directly from Por t Hardy. “I used the fish as features on our daily fresh sheet and they sold really well,” said Schack.

Vista 18’s

GRILLED PACIFIC SARDINE FILLETS SERVED ON DUNEGENESS CRAB AND QUINOA SALAD

Ser ves 4

• 4 whole fresh sardines (two fillets per person). After cleaning and deboning; about 8oz per person

• 2 cups quinoa

• 1/2 lb fresh Dungeness crab meat

• 2 whole shallots

• 1 cup coarse chopped parsley

• 2 lemons, zest removed and reser ved for garnish

• Approx 3 tbsp Olive oil

• Add 1 cup of cleaned and blanched English shelling peas to the salad ingredients

• Salt and pepper

Clean and de bone sardines. Season with sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Place on hot grill for 4 minutes on each side, cooking skin side first.

To prepare the salad: Cook quinoa, toss with good olive oil and let cool When cold, mix in crabmeat Add parsley, shallots and juice from zested lemons Re ser ve zest for garnish

Place one large spoonful of crab and quinoa salad into the centre of each plate and lay the grilled sardine fillets over top, skin side up to show off your exper t grilling skills Sprinkle each plate evenly with remaining lemon zest, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch of coarse sea salt.

“And for Feast of Fields, we smoked the sardines and ser ved them hot off the barbecue with fresh corn and heirloom tomato salsa. People were blown away.” He hopes to order more this year Bell says the demand for these fish is increasing, but it’s still not enough to ensure a regular supply to Vancouver Island Which means, until consumers begin asking for them, they will be hard to find

Unwittingly calling my bluff at the unavailability of little fish in Victoria, friends recently ser ved us a simple Japanese meal As Brian cranked up the flame under the wok, Hatsumi dipped smelts into flour, egg and panko and tossed them into the not quite boiling oil. Sup plied with wedges of lime, small bowls of dips including Srichacha chili sauce and “Bulldog” (a popular Japanese dipping sauce) and lots of beer, we dipped the hot, crispy fish into the sauces and directly into our mouths. It was communal, creative and simple, and an ocean away from the conventional salmon feed I had learned to expect of friends. More impor tant, the smelts were quite tasty salty, crispy and not overwhelmingly fishy It was an unwelcome surprise to later discover that, despite being marked “product of Canada,” these frozen smelts had travelled much far ther than we had expected all the way from Peru The les son? Always ask (see note at the end of story) Imagine, I thought, what this would be like with fresh, local sardines

“We are so lucky to have all of this product at our doorstep. It’s a shame more people don’t make the effor t to appreciate it; the salmon could use the rest,” said Schack.

Sometimes, it can be hard to be a conscious eater. But during our recent fishing expedi tions, the empty hootchie (that “no fail” salmon lure) has repeatedly reinforced the need. As we pulled up its empty hook over and over again, a passage from Bottomfeeder echoed in my mind, “I draw the line where the pursuit or cultivation of my dinner obviously damages the environment, where cruelty is involved, where pollutants or adulterants make it unsafe to eat,” writes Grescoe “For me, a pleasure that diminishes the experience of everybody else on ear th is no pleasure at all ”

Increasingly, we are all being asked to think outside the salmon stream There is no doubt that what we eat (and how much of it) has profound impacts on our health and planet. Maybe we all should simply stop eating fish but realistically, I just don’t think that’s going to happen. We can, however, choose to eat differently. We can eat less fish in general and opt, at least sometimes, for those smaller fish with bigger taste. After all, as my Mom used to say, “Good things come in small packages ” And, as I have learned, some of the tastiest

Note: Always ask about the origin of fish and seafood According to SeaChoice (www sea choice org <http://www seachoice org> ), Canadian seafood labelling regulations do not require labels to include the country of origin of seafood, whether it is wild caught or farmed, or whether the product contains colourants or other additives Those “product of Canada” smelts we thought were caught off the Vancouver coastline were, in fact, from Peru.

The www bcseafoodonline com database gives excellent instruction on buying whole Pacific sardines: “Look for clear gills and eyes and a fresh, mild aroma Avoid sardines that have red eyes or a redness around the gill plate, called gill blush When buying fresh sardines, conduct the ‘clock test’ to assess the level of fresh ness: first grasp the sardine by the head, then allow it to flop to one side and relate the angle of the fish to a clock

While a firm sardine with a 12 o ’clock reading is ideal, an angle between 12 o ’clock and 3 o ’clock is acceptable ” Sardines are in season from June to October Ask for them at Finest at Sea, Meinhardt, Choices and at your local fish counter

Sardines cour tesy of Seaside Marketing

www seasidemarketing ca

Books and Resources: Blue Water Café Seafood Cookbook by Frank Pabst and Yoshihiro Tabo, Douglas and McIntyre, 2009; A Good Catch by Jill Lamber t, David Suzuki Foundation, Greystone Publishing, 2008 ; Tin Fish Gourmet by Barbara jo McIntosh, Raincoast Books, 1998 (out of print, but can be purchased on the Internet) www oceanwisecanada org www seachoice org

Kitchen Local

Recipes and food

styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by REBECC A WELLMAN

Nothing says summer like a barbecued burger. Has to be "old-school" style t h o u g h - a n d t h a t m e a n s g r i l l e d ove r g l ow i n g c h a rc o a l t o g e t t h a t s m o k y

backwoods flavour. Plus it gives you extra time to drink a tall cold one while the coals slowly fire up. But do add a twist. Try local lamb instead of the usual beef. And why not go topless? Ditch the bun and go for a grilled pita.

HERBED LAMB BURGERS

Raid the garden and gather whatever herb is ripe for the picking lemon balm, mint, cilantro, basil, whatever Anything goes when it comes to full flavoured lamb burgers And these have a melting, gooey surprise in the middle too Ser ves 6

• Butter, 1 tsp

• Finely chopped large onion, 1

• Ground cumin, 2 tsp

• Sea salt, generous pinches

• Freshly ground black pepper, generous pinches

• Ground lamb, 2 lbs

• Chopped garden herbs, 3 heaping tbsp

• Goat or cow milk feta, 150 to 200g

Melt butter in a small frying pan over medium heat Add onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes Sprinkle with cumin and pinches of salt Stir until fragrant, about 1 minute Set aside to cool

Crumble lamb into a large bowl. Sprinkle with herbs and a generous pinch of salt and pep per. Scrape onions over top. Using your hands, mix just until all ingredients are evenly dis tributed. Moisten hands with water and shape into 6 balls. Break 6 small chunks from feta. Save leftovers to crumble over burgers once they’re cooked. Press one chunk into centre of each ball Form into patties, making sure cheese is entirely covered If making ahead, cover and refrigerate overnight

Barbecue burgers over medium heat until firm when pressed, 5 to 7 to minutes per side Crumble more feta over burgers and dish up with Roasted G arlic Yogur t Sauce

Roasted Garlic Yogur t Sauce

This is similar to tzatziki but made with roasted garlic so the bite is mellow. The trick to keep ing the sauce thick is to first strain the yogur t and salt the cucumber so neither waters out too much once it’s mixed. If it seems ridiculous to roast only a few cloves of garlic, go for the whole head. It keeps well and adds punch to salad dressings, barbecue sauces and mari nades Makes 1 heaping cup

• 3 5% natural yogur t, 11/2 cups

• Garlic cloves, 3 to 5

• English cucumber, 1/2

• Mix of chopped cilantro and chives, 3 tbsp

• Sea salt and fresh ground pepper, generous pinches

To thicken yogur t, line a sieve with cheesecloth. Place over a bowl. Spoon yogur t over cloth. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours, preferably overnight.

To roast garlic, cut tips of cloves so garlic is exposed Drizzle with a little olive oil and seal in foil Bake in 300F oven until soft, about 20 to 30 minutes

Peel and seed cucumber Finely chop and place in a colander Sprinkle with generous pinches of salt Let stand for 20 minutes, then rinse under cold running water Squeeze out excess liquid and pat dry with towels

Place thickened yogur t in a bowl. Squeeze out roasted garlic cloves and mash, using the flat side of a knife. Add to yogur t along with cucumber. Sprinkle with cilantro, chives, salt and pepper. Stir to mix. Spoon over Herbed Lamb Burgers.

Meg’s Chili Garlic Pickled Carrots

This recipe comes from my good friend Meg Webster I have fond memories of sitting in her backyard on a sunny day, crunchy these garlicky goodies and drinking beer Make a good stash of them they’re handy to pull out for quick side dishes Makes 6 500mL jars

• Water, 6 cups

• White vinegar, 2 cups

• Kosher salt, 3/4 cup

• Carrots, 3 lbs

• Garlic cloves, 18 to 20

• Dill sprigs, preferably with seeds, 6

• Chili flakes, 11/2 tsp

For the brine, in a large saucepan, bring water, vinegar and salt to a boil

Peel carrots and cut into “sticks” Peel garlic cloves and gently crush with a knife cloves should still be intact, just slightly open to release flavour

Sterilize jars, lids and screw bands for 6 500mL mason jars (see below). Divide carrots be tween hot jars and drop 3 garlic cloves, 1 dill sprig and 1/4 tsp chili flakes into each jar. Pour boiling brine over top, leaving about 1/8 inch at top of each jar. Cover with sterilized lids and lightly tighten screw bands.

Process in a boiling water bath for 8 minutes, then let turn off heat Let stand in water for 2 more minutes before carefully removing Best to let sit a few weeks to let flavour develop before eating Store in a cool dark place up to 1 year

SUMMER FRUIT SPOON CAKE

This is really about showcasing the glorious fruits of summer than anything else. A few dollops of lavender lime scented batter barely holds it all together Let stand a few hours before ser ving so the cake can soak up all the perfumed fruit juices Ser ves 6

Filling

• Ripe peaches, about 1 1/2 lbs, peeled and chopped

• Blueberries, 2 cups

• Blackberries, 2 cups

• Granulated sugar, 1/2 cup

• All purpose flour, 2 tbsp

Batter

• All-purpose flour, 3/4 cup

• Granulated sugar, 3/4 cup

• Baking powder, 3/4 tsp

• Small lime, grated peel

• Organic dried lavender buds, 1/2 tsp, chopped

• Sea salt, generous pinch

• Organic egg, 1

• Milk (2% or homogenized), 1/4 cup

• Vanilla extract, 1 tsp

• Organic butter, 1/4 cup + 2 tbsp, melted

For the filling, butter a large, deep dish pie plate In a large bowl, stir peaches, blueberries and blackberries with sugar and 2 tbsp flour Turn into buttered pie plate

For the batter in a bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder, lemon peel, lavender and salt. Whisk eggs with milk and vanilla. Pour over dry ingredients and whisk just until mois tened, then whisk in melted butter until mixed. Spoon over fruit, leaving a few gaps. Bat ter will spread as it bakes.

Bake in centre of preheated 375F oven until fruit is tender and bubbly and cake is deep golden, 45 min to 1 hour Let stand at least 1 hour before ser ving

Niche restaurant created a decadent, elegant and delectable six course wine pairing dinner at Six Mile Pub’s event space on April 22. The venue, more upscale Whistler rental accommodation feeling than restaurant, furnished the evening with a pleasant intimate but relaxing environment to enjoy the food and wine. Highlights were the poached sablefish with truffle, egg and chives with the Poplar Grove 2006 Chardonnay and also the braised veal cheeks with morels, mint and morels with the Poplar Grove 2005 Merlot G E

t

LONG BEFORE THE OK ANAG AN BEC AME B.C.’S FRUIT BA SKET, SOUTHERN VANCOUVER Island was home to vast apple orchards that supplied a thriving apple cider industry. With World War I and Prohibition came the end and the axe: many local orchards were cleared, and the fermentation of apples in the nor thern European tradition was all but over.

Historically, every country that has cultivated the apple has used it to make alcohol, but it is in England and France where cider making traditions run deepest Over time, these ciders have evolved to possess a wide range of styles and complexity: they can range from mouth puckeringly tar t to honey sweet; some are clear, pale and sparkling, while others are cloudy and dark. Alcoholic strength also varies widely.

On this side of the pond, the last decade has seen a Nor th American revival in the centuries old ar t of making apple cider, which is very different from the cloudy and unfermented drink we all grew up with here

“We ferment the fruit, so the cider is more like wine than beer,” says Janet Docher ty, who owns the Merridale Estate Cider y in the Cowichan Valley with par tner Rick Pipes “We’re tra ditionalists, which means we craft in smaller batches, use pure juice and don’t use preser va tives. We don’t compromise.”

Being a traditionalist means cultivating centuries old varieties of nor thern European heir loom apples with names like Tremlett’s Bitter, Chisel Jersey, Frequin Rouge and Hauxapfel Most of us wouldn’t recognize these varieties, let alone want to bite into them Prized for their very high tannin content, most are extremely bitter off the tree

Since Merridale rebuilt and expanded its cidery in 2003, they have fine tuned the recipes for eight ciders, producing all with fruit grown in their own and neighbouring orchards. These in clude a British pub cider, their dry French styled Cidre Normandie aged in oak barrels, and ciders infused with local honey and berries

Not far away in Saanichton, Bruce and Kristin Jordan operate Sea Cider Farm and Cider House, where they cultivate more than 1,000 cer tified organic cider apple trees within sight of the ocean, including Golden Russet and King of Tomkins heirloom apples, two Nor th American apple varieties that were common on the island before Prohibition.

Like Merridale, Sea Cider products represent a mixture of both the old and new world: their Wild English cider is fermented with wild yeasts; Kings and Spies is reminiscent of an Italian prosecco sparkling white wine, crafted from cider apples and a mixed bag of unidentified heir loom apples collected from “old growth” trees across the south island

More than a farm cidery, Sea Cider is a tourist destination as well It’s open to the public year round, and visitors can sample and buy ciders at the tasting room, take a farm tour and shop for hand crafted farm products (11 a.m. to 6 pm. Wednesday through Sunday). In spring and summer, guests can sip ciders paired with organic cheeses from an expansive deck over looking their orchards and the sea

The Okanagan of course has its own cider traditions, granted with a cer tain local and mod ern twist Raven Ridge Cider y began producing its celebrated iced apple cider after an early frost in 2002 left many of the apples in its 140 acre crop frozen on the tree But necessity is the mother of invention, and the frozen apples did not go to waste.

“ The frost separates the nectar of the apple from the water, and this is what we use to make our ice cider,” says marketing manager Rich Priske, who estimates that it takes up to 100 ap ples to make one 375 mL bottle

Most of Raven Ridge’s cider is sold locally from the farm store, including ciders made from the familiar Fuji, Braeburn, Ambrosia and Granny Smith varieties As Priske maintains, the se cret to their success has been careful crafting, the best local fruit and a good dose of serendip ity.

“We make small batches, it’s made by hand, and this all came about by accident.”

ENGL AND Weston’s Premium Organic Cider H Weston & Sons, Herefordshire

Expor t ed here by one of Eng land’s bes t known cider com panies, Wes ton’s Premium Org anic Cider (6 5 percent alcohol) is aged in old oak vats to develop a rich smooth character Available in B C liquor stores, t his gold coloured cider has a slight fizz with a pleasant tar tness on the finish

FRANCE

Val

Les Celliers Associés, Brittany

An ear thy, blonde coloured cider from Brittany, this one ’ s ideal for sipping c hilled from a t all lag er glass (or champagne flute) in a comfy lawn chair

The French cider is carried seasonally by Liber ty Wine Merchants, and their one time shipment ar rives towards the end of summer It goes ver y fast; people should phone ahead because French ex pats usually buy it up in quantity

de Rance Cidre Bouche Doux Cru Breton

British and French Ciders Avail able Here

THE VICTORIA EAT BUZZ CAFE

Congratulations Victoria; t his summer sees a plet hora of citizen spurred initiatives based around food security and environmental sustainability come to fruition Taking a huge stride in t his direc tion, Thrif ty Foods has announced it will become plastic bag free beginning July 22nd af ter 80% of cus tomers sur veyed ag reed t hat plas tic g rocer y bags should not be used The folks at Ambrosio’s Markets are right on board wit h t his eco minded measure (plastic bags pollute wa ter ways, plug drain pipes, and can entangle wildlife) and will also stop supplying plastic bags early July Bot h establishments will be providing reusable grocer y bags at low cost to make t he transi tion from disposable to reusable a little smoot her

Pa ving t he wa y for fur t her im provements, t he creation of t he Vancouver Island Community Research Alliance (VICRA) answers t he call from community groups in t he greater Victoria area and beyond to investigate the island’s food security issues. Currently, a collaboration of small local g roups based in Cowic han Valley, Victor ia, and Sooke are wor king in conjunction wit h t he University of Victoria on a project focused on researching the state of Vancouver Island’s food and health If you ’ re interested in being involved in t his, you can star t by answering t heir Community Campus Par tnerships Food CBR Sur vey www communitycouncil ca

Hot of f t he press is a new Sooke Region Farm and Food Guide listing farms, countr y mar kets, res taurants, food shops, and low cos t local food sources Jus t t he t hing for residents and tourists wishing to suppor t small farmers and get a real taste of the local terroir Check it out at www sookefoodchi ca For a list of t he hippest independent, mom and pop, locally owned eater ies in Victoria, don’t miss t he updated Modern Urban Guide, available in paper at par ticipat ing businesses it can also be perused at modernurbanguides com And fans of long time Victoria resident Elizabet h Levinson’s original guide to t he island’s best food, An Edible Journey, will not want to miss t he freshly squeezed t hird edition wit h lots of new Victoria based ar tisans, markets, and eateries mapped out on t he pages (look for our review at www eatmagazine ca)

A few such places t hat have just cropped up in t he Victoria scene include Lower Johnson’s hip Picnic Café (check out their tongue in cheek lodge décor featuring locally made cardboard moose heads), a shiny new additional location for Demitasse on Broad, and Mo:lé’ s Cosmo Meens’ lat est creation, the Village Family Market at Quadra and Pandora highlighting fresh 100 mile pro duce, healt hy meals to go, and a cof fee car t The quaint and cozy Lucy’s in the Square (see profile on pg 18): market café features local produce and adds anot her piece to t he Fernwood Square jigsaw puzzle What wit h t he Gladstone Café, Fernwood Inn, Stage Wine Bar, and Belfr y Theatre you may just find yourself spending many a summer evening wit hin t his fif ty foot radius

In Oak Bay, next door to BC Wine Guys and Slaters, chef Sam Chalmers has taken over t he space recently vacated by Wren to open Bistro28 The room is being reconfigured to add more seats, a stool bar and a 4 seat outdoor patio The menu will focus on small plates and t he open ing is set for June 27 Chalmers worked at The Superior, Pescatores and Stage At The Marina Matt Rissling has taken t he helm as chef af ter Jef f Keenliside lef t to open his own place

In ot her res to news Vene to at t he Hotel Rialto at t he corner of Douglas and Pandora has opened its doors (pg 17); chef Edward Tuscon (ex Sooke Harbour House) and par tner Gemma Claridge have opened The EdGe (pg 16) on Sooke’s main drag in a former fish and chips joint ; and Alison Biggs and Devour (in t he former Cafe Madrid space on Broughton has won over t he lunch crowd with its locally inspired fare Candace Har tley (ex Dunsmuir Lodge) is now chef at the new restaurant at Churc h & State Her Vineyard Luncheon is available Wednesdays to Sundays from11:30 am to 3:30 pm Congrats to Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub on their 25th anniversar y!

A t Vancouver Magazine’ s annual Res taurant Awards Brasserie L’Ecole took Bes t Victor ia, Sooke Harbour House Best Vancouver Island, The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn Best Re sor t Dining and Shawnigan's Bradford Boisver t and Leah Bellrive of Amusé Bistro were awarded Silver for Best Vancouver Island restaurant "Amusé Bistro", Vancouver Magazine writes, "delivers proof positive t hat a shor t menu celebrating local ingredients means a talented couple can create a better restaurant t han many a resor t wit h more resources "

Thanks to local restaurants, concerned citizens, and local activist groups, Madrona Farm is close to reaching its goal sum to secure its land from development Facing anot her deadline t his July, Victorians can suppor t the cause by donating, volunteering, or attending local fundraising din ners (stay tuned to The Bulletin Board on eatmagazine.ca for upcoming dinners) And let Caf fe Fantastico’ s new policy to donate a percentage of t he environmental surcharge on take out cups to Madrona Farm assuage your guilt when you forget to pack your reusable cof fee mug

The biennial Canadian Chef s’ Cong ress br ings tog e t her hundreds of c hef s from across Canada to brainstorm on food related issues and celebrate t he unique food cultures of our coun tr y Cowichan Valley has been given t he great honour of hosting t he next congress, to be held in September 2010 Themed around the healt h of our oceans and t he inclusion of First Nations’ tra ditional foods, focus topics will include sustainable seafood, pollution, federal and provincial re ser ves, and fishing met hods Chefs Rober t Clark (C Restaurant) and Vikram Vij (Vij’s) will head up the BC Steering Committee and ICC President Cor y Pelan and Deerholme Farm’ s Bill Jones will represent Vancouver Island at t he table Stay tuned to t he Canadian Chefs Congress blog (canadianc hefscongress.blogspot.com) for updates Katie Zdybel

by Sylvia Weinstock

What’s in Season

Edamame. Tender, fresh soybeans are a delicious snack or hors d’oeuvre. They are a good source of protein, calcium and omega 3 fatty acids. The word “edamame” means “twig bean” because the beans grow in clusters on bushy branches. After the edamame pods are briefly blanched in salt water, the beans can be squeezed from the pods right into your mouth a snack that’s more fun than popcorn For a taste sensation, use cooked edamame beans to make hummus Pulse the beans with garlic, lemon juice, salt and a touch of tahini Be sure to buy organic edamame, which is available in the freezer section of most supermarkets Strawberries. These sweet treats are available from June to September Numerous local farms, including Michell Brothers, Le Coteau Farms and G arden Centre, Mar’s Pumpkin Patch Farm Stand, Oldfield Orchard and Bakery, Rosemeade Farms and Pederson Berry Farm, grow strawberries. These berries are high in vitamin C, ellagic acid and potassium. They are the in spiration for summer desser ts, from strawberries and cream to strawberry shor tcake. Straw berries Romanoff combines the berries with sugar, vanilla extract, kirsch or rum and heavy cream.

Blueberries. July and August are heavenly months for those who can never get enough fresh blueberries These tar t sweet taste sensations are available from many local farms star ting in early July through to the end of August Silver Rill Berry Farm, Phil’s Farm, Mt Newton Blue berries, Bluebeary Hill Farm, Meadowbrook Farm (where they use ladybugs for pest control) and Ruby Red Farm (cer tified organic blueberries) grow blueberries For a complete list go to www islandfarmfresh com Pumpkinseeds. These yummy green nuggets are high in protein and rich in nourishing, re vitalizing nutrients. They are an excellent source of antioxidant vitamin E and have far more iron, potassium, copper and phosphorus than pumpkin flesh. They are also a good source of B complex vitamins. They have an abundance of zinc, which revs up the libido. Men have eaten the seeds for thousands of years as a remedy for impotence. Zinc partners with calcium to strengthen and protect bones. Pumpkin seeds are also rich in vitamin A. Zinc and vitamin A are essential for beautiful, healthy skin.

THIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BA SKET RECIPE THE BIG

SALAD

Seinfeld's Elaine Benes loved “ The Big Salad” from Monk's Cafe because it had “lots of stuff ” Jerry Seinfeld described it facetiously as “big lettuce, big carrots and toma toes the size of volleyballs ” In my colourful version, The Big Salad is big, but the in gredients are the smallest, most tender, baby sized veggies and seasonal berries Dress it with your favourite vinaigrette, dole it out into big bowls and enjoy this smorgas bord of summer tastes at their finest.

• 1/2 cup edamame

• 1/4 cup strawberrie s

• 1 head baby red lettuce

• half a head of radicchio

• 1 bunch arugula

• 10 spears asparagus

• a handful of baby cauliflower florets

• a handful of baby broccoli florets

• 1/4 cup cooked garbanzo beans

• 1/4 cup sunflower seeds

• 1/4 cup blueberrie s

• 1/4 cup pumpkinseeds

• 4 baby carrots

Cook the edamame and shell the pods Hull the strawberries and cut them into quarters Wash and spin the salad greens and tear them into bite sized pieces Snap off the woody end of the asparagus Blanch asparagus, cauliflower and broccoli briefly until just ten der Cut the asparagus into bite size pieces With the large prong of a zester, rip grooves down the sides of each carrot, in four places Slice the carrots into thin flower shaped coins. Combine all ingredients. Toss the salad in vinaigrette. Arrange the salad in two bowls and dig in.

new concept is more than a treat

for Fairfield, which boasts foodies, but no local foodie destination. Says Mirjana, “It is my priv ilege to help them in transition from a tea house to a little restaurant on the hill.” G.E. Lunch served at Abkhazi Garden 11:30 3:00pm Wednesdays Sunday. 1964 Fairfied, Tel: 250 598 8096

Tree Fruitful

Wi t h g e n e ro u s l a s h i n g s o f b u t t e r, p a s t r y, w h i p p i n g c re a m a n d c r è m e f ra î c h e , tasty stone fruits like peaches, cherries, apricots and plums are simply delicious.

By Nathan Fong Photograhy Tracey Kusiewicz

Growing up in Vancouver, summer was my favourite time, especially when it came to fresh fruit season. The summer tree f r u i t s f ro m s c a r l e t - h u e d c h e r r i e s a n d g o l d e n a p r i c o t s t o p e a c h e s — we re a n t i c i p a t e d i n o u r h kitchen.

I was raised in a super m a r k e t f a m i l y, a n d i t w a s a l w a y s a s p e c i a l o c c a s i o n when the first case of O k a n a g a n c h e r r i e s a r r i ve d , p l u m p a n d b u r s t i n g w i t h j u i c i n e s s , s i g n a l l i n g the advent of the tree f r u i t c ro p s f ro m t h valley. We knew that in weeks ahead, the corn o f f r u i t we b ro u g h t i n store would be purcha only for fresh eating but also for t h o s e w a n t i n g t o f i l l t h e i r p a n t r i e s f o r t h e c o l d months. As a young kid working at the market, I learned the various types of cherries from Chelan t o B i n g t o L a p i n s, a n d t h e d i f f e re n c e s b e t we e n

clingstone and freestone peaches with their exotic names of Deser t Gold, Cardinal and Red Havens. I still have vivid fragrant memories of stocking our produce shelves with the tree-ripen fruit eet perfumes.

c a l f r u i t s h o u l d b e ed during the season en it’s picked ripe and eady. I don’t think I’ve e ve r e a t e n a n y f r u i t f ro m a n o t h e r h e m i s p h e re i n t h e o f f s e a s o n s w i t h a n y d e g re e o f comfor t or satisfac tion. Especially when I c o n s i d e r h ow e a r l y h e f r u i t h a d t o b e ked and how far it had vel to get to our local T h e y c e r t a i n l y d o n’ t fragrance or taste of ood memories.

While our wonderful tree fruits are in season, enjoy them while they’re here, then w a i t w i t h a n t i c i p a t i o n u n t i l t h e y c o m e a l o n g a g a i n … p e r f e c t l y r i p e a n d re a d y, f ro m o u r l o c a l farms.

FREE-FORM SUMMER FRUIT GALETTE WITH CANDIED GINGER

Free form galettes are so simple and easy to make. I always have some pastr y dough made and stored in my freezer, especially during the summer when all the great fruits are in sea son. This is a simple desser t to make for those last minute dinner guests. These types of galettes are popular in France and are easy to make because the pastry is simply folded over the filling. Ser ves 4.

• 1/2 recipe quick pastr y (see below) or store bought pastr y dough

• 3 to 4 Tbsp ground almonds, lightly toasted

• 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

• 1 1/2 to 2 cups pitted and sliced plums, apricots, cherries or peaches

• 1/4 cup finely chopped cr ystallized ginger

• 1 egg, well beaten

Position rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to 400°F.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to roughly 12 by 12 inch round. Transfer to baking sheet. Mix together the ground almonds with 2 Tbsp sugar and sprinkle mixture over the centre of the pastry, leaving about a 3 inch border all around. Mound or arrange the fruit and chopped ginger on top and sprinkle 2 Tbsp or more of sugar over the fruit Fold the pastry over the filling, leaving a central opening, about 2 to 3 inches across Brush the crust with beaten egg and sprinkle remaining sugar on the crust

Bake for 35 minutes, or until crust is golden and fruit star ts to bubble Remove and cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before ser ving Ser ve with whipped cream, crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream.

Quick Pastr y

Makes enough for two 8 inch pies.

• 1 1/2 cup all purpose flour

• 1 Tbsp sugar

• 1 tsp salt

• 3/4 cup (12 Tbsp) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

• 2 Tbsp lemon juice

• 4 to 7 Tbsp cold water

Place flour, sugar and salt into a food processor bowl. Pulse two or three times until mixed. Add butter and pulse gradually until mixture becomes like coarse gravel. Add lemon juice and cold water, 2 Tbsp at a time, and pulse until mixture comes together and barely forms a ball Remove dough, flatten into a round disc and divide in half Flatten each half into a round disc, wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days

ROASTED BLACK CHERRIES

WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM

This desser t was created by Thierr y Busset, the talented pastry chef from Cin Cin in downtown Vancouver. When I first heard about the cherries being roasted in olive oil I was somewhat skeptical, but this has become one of my favourite seasonal desser ts at the restaurant Ser ves 4

• 1/2 lb fresh or frozen raspberries (not in sugar or syrup)

• 5 Tbsp sugar

• 2 pounds fresh large firm cherries (such as Bing or Rainier)

• 1/4 cup good olive oil

• 2 to 3 Tbsp cherr y liqueur (optional)

• Good quality vanilla ice cream

Mix the raspberries and sugar together; place into food processor and puree. Pass through a fine sieve and discard seeds.

Pit the cherries and cut each in half Preheat a skillet over medium heat and add olive oil Heat until hot but not smok ing Add the cherries and gently toss or sauté with a wooden spoon to make sure cherries are well covered with the olive oil Cook for about 2 minutes until cherries are warm throughout, but not hot.

Pour the cherries into a bowl. Deglaze the pan with cherry liqueur, if using. Pour the raspberry coulis into the skillet and bring to a boil and reduce for about 3 minutes, then add cherries to the hot coulis. Gently sauté until well mixed until cherries are coated

Spoon cherries into ser ving bowls, dividing sauce and top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream Ser ve immediately

CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

Clafoutis is the popular French baked custard-like desser t made with fresh cherries It can also be made with plums, prunes, blueberries, blackberries, fresh figs or cranberries, but then the name changes to a flognarde Traditionally it should be made with whole cherries rather than pitted, which keeps the cherry juice from bleeding into the cus tard. This is an adaption of the clafoutis tar t from Jean Francis and Alessandra Quaglia’s Provence restaurants in Vancouver where they add white chocolate to the filling Ser ves 8 to 10

• Butter, for greasing

• 1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh firm cherries (pitted, optional)

• 3/4 cup chopped white chocolate

• 4 Tbsp all purpose flour

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 1/2 cup milk

• 3/4 cup whipping cream

• 1 tsp vanilla extract

• 4 eggs

• For garnish: icing sugar, whipped cream or crème fraîche

Preheat oven to 350°F Grease a 6 cup fluted or plain flan dish with butter and dust with a small amount of sugar Dis tribute cherries and white chocolate along bottom of the flan dish

Mix the flour and sugar in a bowl, add the milk, whipping cream, vanilla and whisk together until blended. Add the eggs and whisk until smooth. Slowly pour filling over berries and chocolate. Place into oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until puffed and golden. G arnish with icing sugar and ser ve warm with whipped cream or crème fraîche

A P R I C O T B R I O C H E A N

BUTTER PUDDING

D

This simple recipe is an adaptation of a desser t I had in Melbourne a few years ago during their summer Tradi tionally, bread and butter puddings are richer and heavier with a custard based filling and are typically ser ved in the cooler seasons. In this case, the apricots are gently cooked until soft and set over toasted brioche, which makes it a light desser t for the warmer weather. Ser ves 6 to 8.

• 2 lbs apricots, halved and pitted

• 1 Tbsp lemon juice

• 1/3 cup sugar

• 12 1/2-inch thick brioche slices (or any other sweet dough • bread, such as panettone)

• 1/4 cup butter

• For garnish: roasted flaked almonds, mascarpone or whipped cream

Mix together apricots, lemon juice and 1/4 cup sugar in a saucepan and cook, covered over medium heat, until apri cots are soft.

Spread brioche slices with butter, place overlapping slices in an ovenproof dish and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Bake at 400°F for 10 minutes or until brioche is golden Top with apricot mixture and return to oven for 5 minutes or until bubbly Sprinkle with almonds and ser ve with mascarpone or whipped cream

P L U M A N D F R A N G I PA N E TART

Frangipane is a simple filling of almonds, eggs and butter. Instead of plums, any just ripe fruit will do, such as apri cots, nectarines and peaches This is best ser ved warm with whipped cream Ser ves 8 to 10

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 3 Tbsp sugar

• 7 Tbsp cold vegetable shor tening

• 5 Tbsp cold butter

• 5 to 6 Tbsp cold water

• 1 1/2 cups blanched almonds

• 2/3 cup sugar

• 2 Tbsp all purpose flour

• 1/2 cup melted butter

• 2 eggs

• 1 tsp vanilla extract

• 8 to 10 plums

In a food processor, add flour, sugar, shor tening and cold butter and pulse until mixture is like coarse sand Add the water and process until the pastry just comes together forming a ball Remove and flatten into a round disc, wrap and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes

Roll out chilled pastry and line a 10 inch tar t pan (with removable bottom). Chill in freezer for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Place the almonds onto a baking sheet and roast for 5 to 7 minutes, shaking sheet occasionally to prevent nuts from burning Allow to cool, then grind in a food processor until fine To make the frangipane, add the sugar, 2 Tbsp flour, melted butter, eggs and the vanilla extract; process until smooth

Reduce oven to 400°F.

Remove the chilled tar t pan from freezer and line pastry with foil, then weigh it with dried beans or rice and blind bake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and beans and return pastry to oven, baking a fur ther 10 minutes or until pastry

is crisp. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Reduce oven to 350°F.

Remove the stones from the plums and cut each plum into 4 or 6 pieces Spoon the frangipane into the pastry shell Arrange the plums over the frangipane and bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until filling is set and golden Remove and allow to cool Ser ve warm

PA N - F R I E D P E A C H E S W I T H

R O A S T

CRISPY TARRAGON

N A N D

After all those delicious desser ts, I’ll end with an entrée. This simple yet flavourful recipe comes from a friend, Auck land, N Z, cookbook author Julie Biuso It’s featured in her cookbook Hot Nights Cool Days Ser ve with a great Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough Valley! Ser ves 6

• 1 free range corn fed organic chicken (around 3 pounds)

• Butter

• Generous handful fresh tarragon

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 cup chicken stock (more if needed)

• 1 1/2 lemons

• 2 yellow bell peppers

• 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 3 firm, late season peaches

• Generous handful of coarsely chopped fresh basil

Rinse chicken inside and out, removing any lumps of fat. Drain, then pat dry with paper towels. Put a nut size lump of butter inside the chicken, along with a sprig of tarragon and a little salt and pepper. Slip some tarragon sprigs be tween the chicken breast skin and meat Tie the legs with string around the parson’s nose to keep the cavity closed, then put the chicken in a smallish roasting tin; choose one in which it fits snugly Pour in the chicken stock

Melt 1 ounce of butter and brush over the chicken Squeeze on a little lemon juice and sprinkle with salt. Put the chicken in an oven preheated to 350°F and cook for about 1 1/2 hours, basting often (turn the chicken over after 20 minutes, cook for a fur ther 20 minutes, then turn breast side up again for the rest of the cooking). The chicken should be kept moist during cooking; add more stock if it dries up Halfway through cooking, or when you turn the chicken breast up again, strew the chicken generously with plenty of tarragon sprigs, which will turn deliciously crisp Remove the chicken from the oven when it is cooked through to the bone and let it rest before cutting.

Cut the bell peppers in half, remove the cores and seeds and cut into chunks. Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a medium frying pan and when it is hot, add the bell peppers. Cook for about 10 minutes, turning the peppers, until they are just star ting to wilt Transfer them to a dish

Cut the chicken into par ts and arranged on a large plat ter

Leave the skins on the peaches unless they are tough or bitter, and slice into thick wedges Heat a large skillet over a medium heat and when it is hot, drop in a knob of butter. Add the peach wedges while the butter is sizzling and cook about 3 minutes a side; turn carefully with a spoon and fork. Add the peppers to the pan, season with salt and pep per and pour everything, including juices, over the chicken Strew the top with loads of basil, toss lightly, then break the pieces of crispy tarragon over the top Ser ve immedi ately

E D C H I C K E

INDIVIDUAL SUMMER BERRY PAVLOVA

HERE’S A

WAY to make pavlova This divine desser t features sweet pillows of meringue irresistibly topped with whipped cream and fresh summer berries. The meringues could be made up to a day in advance. After cooling and drying, leave them on the baking sheet, cover and store at room temperature until needed

Preparation time: 20 25 minutes, Cooking time: 2 hrs 20 minutes, Makes: 8 ser vings

• 3 large egg whites

• 1⁄2 tsp cream of tar tar

• 3/4 cup berr y (extra fine) sugar (see Note)

• 1 cup whipping cream

• 1 oz. orange liqueur (optional)

• 16 small to medium strawberries, hulled and sliced

• 1 cup raspberries

• 1 cup blueberries or blackberries, or mix of both

• 1/4 cup B.C. fruit syrup, such as blueberr y or raspberr y (optional; see Note)

• Icing sugar for dusting

• 8 mint sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 225˚F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw 8, 3 to 3 1/2 inch circles on the paper (they will guide where to mound the meringue after is it made) Place the egg whites and cream of tar tar in a bowl Beat until very soft peaks form Grad ually, beating steadily, add the berry sugar Keep beating the meringue until glossy and stiff peaks form (they should stand almost straight up) Divide and mound the meringue into the circles you have drawn on the paper, building up the edges to create a pocket in the middle.

Bake the meringues for 20 minutes and then turn the oven off. Let the meringues cool and dry in the oven for 2 hours.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add the orange liqueur, if using, and beat the whip ping cream until stiff peaks form. Set a meringue on each of 8 desser t plates. Divide and pipe or spoon an equal amount of whipped cream on each meringue Divide and arrange the berries on top of the whipped cream Dust the pavlova with icing sugar G arnish each with a mint sprig and, if desired, for added flare, drizzle each plate in a decorative way with berry syrup

Note: Berry sugar and B C fruit syrup, such as those made with blueberries or raspberries, is available in most supermarkets in the aisle other types of sugar and syrup are sold.

Barbara-jo McIntosh LOCAL HERO

When Umber to Menghi’s Vancouver restaurants upped the city’s dining ante, several local lumi naries were spawned John Bishop (Bishop’s), Michel Jacob (Le Crocodile), and Pino Posteraro (Cioppino’s) were among them, and so was a slim young homegrown girl named Barbara jo, who accepted the position as assistant to the manager at Al Porto, initially to earn UBC tuition The kitchen lured her instead Barbara Jo McIntosh spent her dollars and days learning the culinary ropes at Pierre DuBrulle Culinary School and in BCIT ’s Food and Beverage management program. She went on to open Barbara Jo’s Elegant Home Cooking at 10th and Cambie in 1990.

Barbara jo sips her wine and smiles “I guess even then I did my best to source local ” And fresh? “Definitely Hazelmere Farms provided organic vegetables We fried chicken, free range if possible, in buttermilk, and napped Dungeness crab cakes with house made cayenne mayo Sautéed goat cheese (that was French) on local greens and oyster and ar tichoke stew were stars.”

For years, though, the successful entrepreneur, also an avid reader, had been percolating a passion for owning a specialty cookbook shop. A Saveur magazine piece on Notting Hill’s fa mous Books For Cooks and its working kitchen sprung Barbara jo into action Vancouver’s Books To Cooks with a demo kitchen became a reality in 1998

Chef and cookbook seller came together most impressively Barbara Jo was convinced Vancouver’s burgeoning food scene was ripe for top notch books and guest chefs. Since then her in telligence, grace and wit have attracted famous chefs local and abroad. Vancouver food lovers have gathered in the kitchen to learn from U.K. bad boy Gordon Ramsay, Saveur’s Coleman An drews and Michel Roux of Waterside Inn in Berkshire. At press time, Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) will have made his only Canadian stop with Barbara jo at U BC Farm

Barbara jo is big on Canadian content, too Local celebs have included John Bishop, Rob Feenie (ex Lumiere, now Cactus Club), West’s Warren Geraghty and Blue Water’s Frank Pabst Guests delight in the foraging stories of Vancouver Islander Bill Jones. Sarah McLachlan has appeared with her personal chef. Barbara Jo has also given us New Brunswick’s Laura Calder and, from Toronto, the travelling cookbook writing duo of Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford (latest: Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes & Travels in the Other China)

A bestselling author in her own right (Tin Fish Gourmet), Bar bara jo served on the prestigious James Beard Awards cookbook selection committee for six years And in 2003, she received Van couver Magazine’s lifetime achievement award for her many contributions to the local culinary scene. What is this award win ning bookseller’s recipe for success? Barbara jo’s response is immediate. “Stay focused on your passion, and occasionally have a strong drink.”

My chat with Barbara jo reminded me of a comment my hus band, a former liquor store manager, made when he first en countered the young restaurateur as one of his licensees: “An interesting place called Barbara Jo’s just opened up the street Dealing with the owner and, I guess, chef is a treat She’s pleas ant to all the staff and so very organized I think she’ll make a go of it.”

Check out www.bookstocooks.com for more info on events.

Julie Pegg chats with Barbara-jo McIntosh, respected bookseller, author and suppor ter of the culinary ar ts, over an “omelette and a glass of wine.”

The Quest:

Slow Food—Fast

Eating on the run can be a tasteful

experience.

Anyone who has popped out for a walk, a ride or a run with little more than a water bottle and a five dollar bill in their pocket understands the unexpected tummy growl Is it possible to satisfy that sudden pang without resorting to junk food? Ay, there’s the rub

After a big mea culpa, I sometimes duck into McDonald’s for fries (they were good enough for Julia Child) or a snack wrap (always with chipotle sauce). Wendy’s bean and beef chili satisfies on a cool day.

Mostly, though, I prefer to suppor t our local food economy Various wee nie car ts about town are a go to and, for me, it’s less about the dog and all about the add ons Load that puppy up until it drips down the shir t The Japa Dog (thumbs up from Anthony Bourdain) accessorizes its found only in Vancouver dogs with Japan ese condiments like radish sprouts, wasabi mayo, nori (seaweed) and teriyaki sauce There are vegetarian puppies too Doggie delights are $4 $6; two car ts, at Burrard and Smythe and Burrard and Pender)

In Kits, I may pop into the Patty Shop (MacDonald and 23rd) for Jamaican style flaky pasties filled with curried chicken or spicy beef ($2 each).

Miner va’s Meditteranean Deli and Greek Supermarket (3207 W. Broadway) hands me mini spanakopitas or cheese pies for 60 cents apiece (I munch on a couple with a Greek coffee while mulling over which olives and feta to buy) It’s tough to beat the grilled paninis stuffed with Italian fixings (mor tadella, prosciutto, salami, eggplant, roasted peppers ) ($5 $6) at the coffee bar in Bosa Foods (1465 Kootenay, off Boundary Rd ) Pull up a stool or hun ker down at one of the wrought iron tables outside Most enjoyable is a do it yourself ploughman’s lunch from Urban Fare, the ultimate gour met grocery. Match a chunk of smoked peppercorn salmon (market price) and thinly sliced ar tisan rolls (55 80 cents each). Flesh out the fish and bread with a wedge of aged ched dar and crisp, juicy Braeburn apple. Pilfer, well, maybe ask nicely for, cutlery, napkin and a packet of mustard from the take out counter. Graze and gaze at the boats bobbing in False Creek Inlet steps from the Yaletown Urban Fare (177 Davie), or drink in the Nor th Shore mountains from the lovely new Harbour Green Park across from the Coal Harbour location (305 Bute) Julie Pegg

I’VE BEEN STAYING AT OPUS HOTEL EVER SINCE THEY burst onto the scene and charged the way hotels did business in Vancouver And each time I find time to dine in their restaurant Elixir and enjoy the cooking of Chef Don Letendre. Over the years the cooking has veered to Pan Asian influence but my recent visit showed a return to the original French bistro concept

The new menu features such appy classics as onion soup and warm frisée salad with poached egg and bacon; while mains feature a delicious dish of organic chicken cooked in beer with mushrooms, mustard spaetze and crème fraîche. 350 Davie Street, Vancouver, BC, 604 642 0557

Double smokedpeppercorn smoked salmon, wit h aged cheddar, Braeburn apple wedges, bun and sliced onion purchased at Urban Fare and eaten outside on t he patio

604-638-1550 | www.r.tl by Julie Pegg

Launching a restaurant any time is a gamble But it’s a major wager during tough weather and a tougher economy Prior to opening R TL’s tinted glass doors last December, there’s a good chance operations manager Alain Canuel spent a few nights pacing the hardwood But he and his team kept a grip. With weather and wallets lightening up, more and more folks are drifting into this 50 seat space for a bite and a bevvy on an amble through one of Vancouver’s tonier neighbourhoods.

CHARACTER

CREW COOKING

The “lounge” is in fact a small, chic dining room painted rich dark chocolate Oh so comfy leather dining chairs come in cream. Tucked way back is an intimate cur vy bar. Cutlery, napery and glasses are elegantly simple. Gracing the walls are handsome bevelled and wood framed convex mirrors a lovely conceit Alain Canuel cuts a dapper figure as he oversees R TL’s central workings and the (very good) wine program Executive chef and cowboy (seriously!) Erik Smith juggles the pots and pans when he’s not horsing about. Sous chef Grant Hunnisett could confidently include pastry chef as par t of his handle. Mixing up tasty potions behind the bar is master mixologist Matt Mar tin

Two regional cuisines rotate every three months while B C remains a constant Dishes are (mainly) tapas size We sipped and savoured Por tugal and France, and a bite of B.C. Local pork belly and Manila clams honoured Por tugal’s pork Alentejana. An assemblage of micro greens, quail eggs, slender haricots ver t, black Niçoise olives and fingerling potatoes added up to a Petite Salade Niçoise almost too pretty to eat Quadra Island mussels were bathed in a tomato/gin broth Duck pâté was pure silk G athering from the orgasmic ahhs over the salt cod fritters a couple of tables over, we should have also had what they were having.

MUST HAVES DRINK

The Italy and Greece menus are now in full Mediterranean swing I’m plumping for the bread salad with focaccia croutons, fresh tomatoes, chiffonade basil splashed with white balsamic vinaigrette and the pan seared fresh Greek cheese flambéed in ouzo Try any of Grant’s desser ts

From the cocktail menu, I opted for Matt’s perfect Maker’s Mark Manhattan. The house recommends the Va Va Voom, a sweetish Stoli based concoction Wine must haves: Maccabeu/Vermentino ’07 (white) Morellino di Scansano ’04 (red)

Or get Alain to put together a tasting flight

R.TL: Chef Erik Smith w/ antipasto platter for 2: zucchini ricotta, provalone, house pickled vegetables

I’ve been

Hot el’s Doc kside Restaurant for grilled garlicky squid with chili and cilantro and a brew of their own making (I’m par tial to the high hopped Johnston Street Pilsner) Sharing Greek “plates” over a glass of retsyna has always played a big par t in my summer Right now I’m into Piato’s beef shor t rib gyros, grilled lemony calamari, and the unusual pureed beet and olive oil dip t hat comes with cr ispy pit a Angus An tur ned up t he heat on his culinar y skills when Gas tropod switc hed to Maenam and he swapped his French flare for spicy Thai. The selection of “smaller” and “big ger ” plates ($7 $24) ser ved lunch to late night demands several visits There’s pad thai, of course An’s, not surprisingly, balances brilliantly sweet, sour, salt and crunch (Scrape up all those tasty bits underneat h t he noodles!) Pork belly rules so does t he fish sauced green papaya salad with green beans, and golden mantle oysters Advice to the wussy palate If you can’t take the heat tell t he kitchen Those bird’s eye chillis are t hree alarm! Meanwhile Wild Rice is doing summer lite two courses $22, (par tnered wit h two wines $32) three courses $27, (wit h three wines $42) On our visit a tumble of pea vines and bamboo shoots, garnished wit h tobiko, flanked grilled two plump Qualicum bay scallops Then came orange spiced butter y albacore tuna, barely seared atop a crisp coconut ginger rice cake To finish coconut custard filled beignets (Asian style do nuts) were so damn delicious, we ’ ve begged them to stay Anot her makeover Sequoia Grill has turned over new leaf, rever ting back to t he original The Teahouse in Stanley Park on Ferguson Point (anot her stunning Vancouver setting) I was t hrilled to find t he highly regarded former owner of West Vancouver’s long running Beachside Café, (now remodeled Crave) managing and Chef Carol Chow (ex Bishops) in t he kitchen

Two recently published cookbooks find me noshing outdoors, Euro style. Lidia’s Italy and Laura Calder's French Taste Elegant Ever yday Eating Brunch per fect is Lidia’s frittata (more of a loose egg scramble really) of fresh foraged asparagus, scallions and prosciutto If you ’ re not familiar with Canada’s own Laura Calder you should be This sophisticated yet plain speaking Canadian chef really cooks, on screen, and in French Taste Easy to prep cauliflower (with sun dried tomatoes and black olives) salad or fennel and pine nut salad are the per fect par tners for simply grilled fish (Calder’s excellent Food Network show, French Food at Home will begin Season 3 in October) Happy summer eating! by Julie Pegg

Cornucopia Island

A foodie waxes poetic about Salt Spring Island’s groaning board of fresh, local everything

Abundance It is the word that runs through my mind every time I visit Salt Spring Island

Lush, rolling countryside dotted with plump lambs grazing in pastures soaked in sun, munching grasses flavoured by salt air, and thus, I contend, marinating from within for later refer ence on the BBQ

It is an island of vineyard acreages of carefully cultivated terroir producing wines such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Maréchal Foch.

Orchards heaving with fruit with flavours deep, intense and seductive and wild blackberry bushes so thick along the road side the locals call the season “ The Blackberry Plague ”

Here you will find world class cheeses, some pungent, some soft and yielding, handcrafted locally, made from the fragrant milk of sleek goats and fat purebred Jersey cows

Walk to the end of the dock in G anges and take your pick of fresh caught wild fish or monster crabs. Sample Salt Spring mussels and clams pulled fresh from the ocean; fleshy morsels of sea bounty ready for a steaming pot of white wine, herbs and butter. Or slurp a dozen briny oysters shucked fresh, eaten whole with a dash of lemon, shot of Tabasco, then one swoop and down the hatch

Salt Spring Island famed Farmers’ Market star ts in early spring when rhubarb, spring herbs and early season wild mushrooms are yielding up their goodness, having been CONT ’D ON TH E N E XT PAGE

foraged or har vested by local farmers who then offer up this bounty for sale. Strolling around the market square is to feel a kin ship with the local Salt Spring residents, many of whom come to sell their goods and crafts, swap stories, sample each others’ produce and support their local businesses Everyone suppor ts everyone else. Recom mendations are passed on from seller to shopper to try the breads from one stall or the sweet snap peas or delicate pastries at another. This is bounty shared and cele brated

Many of the local restaurants and inns fur ther the relationship with Salt Spring Is land’s “eat local” philosophy suppor ting farmers, growers and producers by crafting menus that showcase local everything from, as the saying goes, soup to nuts. This is not so much The 100 Mile Diet as it is The 25 Kilometers in Any Direction Diet.

A local SS I friend of mine is always pass ing along snippets from the Salt Spring Is land online community bulletin board I’m sure there is a novel in there someplace be cause where else would folks be selling New Zealand meat rabbits for serious breeders only, with a disclaimer that these are not pets, and, of a cer tain age will “get mean” if not bred. Then there was the one about the bird suits. Yes, you read that right These were little poop retainer nap pies in case you wanted to take your budgie or duck out for a stroll in mixed company I recall reading the fabric motif was Hawai ian

Salt Spring is an island of festivals for all five senses apples, mushrooms, lavender, jazz and the ar ts and that’s a very small sampling of what goes on over 52 weeks. It

also the land of Zen, yoga, aroma therapies, magic hand creams and lotions and potions for every par t of the body, mind and spirit

Salt Spring is new age meets any age It is a timeless place that seems to have found its time and its place in our fast paced world It is a slower more gentle way to enjoy life, celebrate the seasons and reap and share abundance with those who live there, and with those who choose to come and “sit for a spell.” Su Grimmer

W HEN YOU GO

All Seasons Bed & Breakfast

325 Eagle Ridge Drive, Salt Spring Island, BC

Toll Free: 1 866 340 0531, www allseasons saltspring ca

Bruce’s Kitchen

#106 149 Fulford G anges Road, Salt Spring Island, BC 250 931 3399

Cafe Talia 122 Hereford Avenue, Salt Spring Island, BC 250 931 4441

Hastings House Countr y House Hotel 160 Upper G anges Road, Salt Spring Island, BC 1 800 661 9255, www.hastingshouse.com

Marketplace Café G asoline Alley, Salt Spring Island, BC 250 537 9911

Moby’s Oyster Bar & Grill 124 Upper G anges Road, Salt Spring Island, BC 250 537 5559

Salt Spring Island Cheese Farm Shop 285 Reynolds Road, Salt Spring Island, BC 250 653 2300, www saltspringcheese com

THE COMOX VALLEY EAT BUZZ CAFE

Summer is here and the time is right for caipirihñas! Know what that means? Bar tender Freddy at Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250 890 9200 www avenuebistro ca] does, and that makes me one of his best customers when t he sun is beating down (not hing like a glass of ice and mud dled lime topped of f with a couple of oz of cachaça ) Watch out for a tag team ef for t (Chef Aaron and Beaufor t Vineyards) for the 5 course Wine Tasting Dinner mid July Recently walked by t he sun drenched patio at Mar tine’s Bistro [1754 Beaufor t Ave, Comox (250) 339 1199] and wished I’d spent my $ there instead of down the hill Looking for ward to what Chef Jesse Pur den learned from his 2 mont h culinar y trip to Europe

In Cour tenay, Chef Jon at Atlas Café [250 6t h Street, Cour tenay 250 338 9838] is working t he new local brewer y into the summer menu: pasta wit h braised lamb, sun dried tomatoes, green peppercorns and Surgenor Red Ale cream sauce sounds good to me Chef Steve Dodd makes a great tomato jam (delish with scallops) and a killer chocolate mousse at Bisque [14th and Clif fe Ave , Cour tenay 250 334 8564 Tues Sat) Weekend brunch is now a regular, full on feature at Union S treet Grill & Grotto [47 7 5t h Street, Cour tenay 250 897 0081] This summer Tita’s Mexican Restaurant [536 6th Street, Cour tenay 250.334.8033] is featuring many more options for small plates and tapas, as well as seasonal margaritas made wit h fruit from t he garden Zizi's Eastern Mediterranean Specialities [4 41B Clif fe Avenue 250 334 1661] is following t he taste trail and now of fers Bison "Shish Kebaba ” Around t he corner of 4t h and Clif fe, t he cour tyard is getting ver y cool It’s now home to Benino Gelato’ s Cour tenay outlet and Mudshark’ s cof fee bar Shade trees Cof fee Ice cream Luncheon menu A great place to hang out and enjoy the sum mer scener y Down t he road, the “ new ” Old House Restaurant [1760 Riverside Lane, Cour te nay 250 338 5406] recently had t he best ribs I’ve had anywhere in recent memor y Watch out for an exciting summer event hosted by Chef Ronald St Pierre of Locals [364 8t h Street, Cour te nay 250 338 6493, www localscomoxvalley com]

www kingfisherspa com] hosts seafood buf fets on July 10th & 24th, Aug 7th & 21st, and Sept 11th & 25t h wit h Sunday Brunch ever y weekend

Mount Washington is hosting several big fun events t his summer: t he 10t h Annual Beer Festi val (July 10); 11t h Annual Alpine Wine Festival (Aug 7); and 2nd Alpine Food Festival (Sept 4 6) The latter features cooking classes, celebrity chefs, gala dinner, outdoor marketplace FMI go to www.mountwashington.ca / 1.888.231.1499.

Heriot Bay Inn [1 877 605 4545 /www heriotbayinn com] on Quadra Island is where Chef Eric Dollar is doing great t hings Well wor t h t he trip just for t he smoked scallop appetizer alone I’m looking for ward to visiting Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resor t [4125 Discover y Drive 1 800 891 0287 / www dolphinsresor t com] Reser vations recommended as it’s tiny and has been described as t he culinar y jewel of Campbell River by Hans Peter Meyer

THE NANAIMO EAT BUZZ CAFE

Friends refer to me as “The Urban Forager” I have favourite spots I’ve ferreted out all over Van couver Island for t hings Lunch things Dinner t hings Spice t hings Condiments t hings Bread, meat and fish and fowl t hings And t hen t here is t hat classification called “ What t he hell will I do wit h t his t hing?” I buy t hose t hings a lot On any given day you can find me at a fav haunt for just one t hing In Nanaimo, it’s Aladdin’s Café [67 Victoria Crescent, Nanaimo 250 716 1299] Lentil soup is t he t hing here Real Lebanese vegan lentil soup Dark , t hick , rich, stoked to the brim wit h a mystic blend of spices impor ted from Lebanon One bowl will fill you up for t he whole day Enjoy your soup wit h a Lebanese cof fee The cof fee is strong, sweet and ser ved in a Rakwa, t he traditional Lebanese single ser ving cof fee pot You’ll have a caf feine rush for days and the orange walls and 15 foot Aladdin will all seem to make sense

On Salt Spring Island, I immediately head for Rendezvous French Patisserie [126 4 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island 250 537 8400] for a cannelé You will need to get owners, Brigitte & Bruno Gonzales she is from Normandy and he is from Bordeaux to explain t he leg end behind t his distinctive, chewy, pillowy, eggy, yummy confection It’s all about Cat holic nuns, tiny copper cups, egg yolks and charity fundraising Brigitte also makes a chocolate meringue t hing called Incroyable Again, t here is a stor y, so ask and t hen indulge

For spice t hings, I have a cupboard packed to t he brim wit h spices from Monsoon Coast An drea LeBorgne is t he new “spice girl” owner of Monsoon Coast She bought t he company from longtime spice guru, Doug Hall Her products may be found in high end specialty food outlets in BC and Alber ta, at the Salt Spring Island Market or via her website www monsooncoast com Her spice collections are like reading National Geographic, wit h mixtures from India, Africa, t he Mid dle East, t he Caribbean and Pan Asia She’ll be adding a line in summer 2009 for Nor t h Ameri can BBQ aficionados to savour on t heir grilled t hings

When taking a swing through Shawnigan Lake I make a point of rolling into Gerald’s Baker y (formerly Shawnigan Lake Baker y & Deli) [2769 Shawnigan Lake Road, 250 743 9226] for t he chocolate orange bread pudding and maybe an apple tar t. There are many t hings in t his baker y to tempt and lead you astray, so if it is not one of my t hings, you’ll find your own t hing

Back in Nanaimo, if you need a corn beef fix, head to Nesvog’s Meat & Sausage Company in Terminal Mall [Unit # 2, 1533 Estevan Road, Nanaimo 250 753 4248] Their corn beef brisket

is brined overnight in a trade secret spice & sea salt recipe and t hen slow cooked at a ver y low temperature for hours upon hours The resulting brisket is luxuriously pull apar t savour y When stacked a mile high on good r ye bread wit h hot mustard, oh baby, does t hat make a killer great sandwich! Nesvog’s also make all their sausages in house and t hey are not afraid to be creative with lamb, turkey, chicken, pork and bison Be brave BBQ outside your comfor t zone and take a bow for the resulting rave reviews.

And finally, for all good kitchen t hings, you need to visit Flying Fish [180 Commercial Street Nanaimo, 250 754 2104] Recently purchased (and then glugged directly from the bottle) was t he Chocolate Wine Sauce Dark chocolate, agave nectar and BC red wine What’s not to love? A word of caution when you enter t his store you will not leave wit hout a few new things Those are the “what t he hell” things I mentioned earlier Don’t say you were not warned!

by Su Grimmer

THE TOFINO EAT BUZZ CAFE

Af ter another successful Tofino Food and Wine Festival kicking of f t he star t to summer, I have to say t hat t his year was an exceptionally outstanding showcase of local culinar y talents, Van couver Island pur veyors and British Columbia wines (microbreweries and ciderhouse) Some of the food highlights from Grazing In t he Gardens include fresh baked breads by Jules Lomenda of Six Hundred Degrees Baker y (Tofino) paired wit h Hilar y’s Cheese from Cowichan Bay (‘Miele’ had guests talking non stop), Fetc h’s (Black Rock Hotel) Grilled BBQ Pork Sandwich, Spotted Bear’s Tuna Tar tar, The Pointe’s Sloping Hills Fennel and Chilli Banger and Sobo’s Ceviche Spe cial guests from Nor th Island include Edgar and Mar y Ann Smit h of Natural Pastures Cheese (Comox) and Kat hy & Victor McLaggan of Outlandish Shellfish Guild (Cor tes Island) New comers this year included Rockey Creek Winer y (Cowichan Valley), Road 13 Vineyard (Oliver) and Township 7 (Langley) Take a look at t he EAT website as we ’ ve p[osted a few photos from t he day

The week leading up to the festival involves dining out at all of my local favourites (as I am so busy preparing for t he big weekend!); SoBo, Wildside Grill, Sc hooner Restaurant, Spotted Bear Bistro, The Pointe Restaurant and Shelter Restaurant All of t hese places will be in full swing with fresh summer menus, for t he summer season in Tofino

Tuf f Beans is open Thursday Sunday for family friendly Pizza Night (locals appreciation night is Thursdays) Menu includes flatbread pizzas, soups, salads and paninis A great place for peo ple watching from t he patio, Tuf f Beans makes great cof fee (Kicking Horse) as well Located on t he corner of Campbell Street and Four t h Street

Green Soul Organics, Tofino’s health food store, located in t he hear t of downtown Tofino is newly owned and operated by Morgan Callison (formerly Hungr y Bear Naturals) Callison is car r ying as much local products as possible, from t he west coast as well as t he rest of Vancouver Is land Suppliers include Medicine Farm (greens, herbs), Nanoose Edibles (greens, herbs, organic produce), Lori’s Farm (free range chicken products), Clayoqout Botanicals (herbal teas, herbal tinctures, herbal salves), Sea Wenc h Naturals (eco friendly cleaning supplies, skin & beauty products) (Corner of Four t h Street and Campbell Street across from Tuf f Beans)

Six Hundred Degrees Baker y, specializing in organic naturally leavened breads, uses fresh milled and ground flour from La Boulange Baker y (692 Bennett Road Qualicum Beach 250 752 0077), as well as sea salt from Antarctic Pure Sea Salt, provided by The Galthering Place, a small family business, from Cor tes Island, impor ting high end teas and sea salt Six Hundred Degrees bread and other delicious baked goods can be found at Tofino’s Public Market (Saturdays in t he Village Green, 10am 2pm), Green Soul Organics and Beaches Grocer y Over in Ucluelet, Nor woods Restaurant (1714 Peninsula 250 726 7001) is getting great re views, great BC wine list and many return guests Ukee Dogs is also wor t h checking out for some homemade meat pies and ot her great pastries, and of course a wide selection of gourmet dogs. (1576 Imperial Lane 250 726 2103) by Kira Rogers

THE OKKANNAAGGAAN N EAT BUZZ CAFE

This July we Okanagians must sadly bid adieu to one of our greatest chefs. Michael Allemeier of Mission Hill Winer y Terrace Restaurant fame will be moving back to Calgar y to teach at SAIT Michael has set a benchmark for all by being a strong advocate of eating locally and a dedicated friend to t he farmer His philosophy of implementing and promoting sus tainably and seasonal cooking played a large par t in taking our Valley’s food scene to another level Thank you Michael come back soon

The Green Room Restaurant has opened in downtown Kelowna This charming eater y com plete with tree canopied patio was t he brainchild of Nathan Flavel (GM) Randy Leslie (ar tistic di rector), owners/creators of the super successful Kelowna Actors Studio Af ter of fering an in house catered meal with each theatre production, t hey decided to open up t heir own place where cus tomers and t heatre goers can hang out before and af t er t he show 101 1360 Ellis S tree t, www kelownaactorsstudio com

Local favorite Indian/Nepalese Restaurant, Everest, has added yet anot her dimension to its range of delicious fare Wit h its recent purchase by former Beijing Restaurateur Bina Qu, Everest will now ser ve Chinese cuisine as well Qu is bringing wit h her a high end chef from Beijing who will be preparing t he special Chinese menu Everest’s former Indian food chef will be staying on to continue providing t he fantastic Indian and Nepalese fare Traditional Chinese breakfasts will also be of fered including Congee and Youtiao (chinese doughnuts) 573 Lawrence Avenue (250) 762 7000

Naramata’s stunning vineyards and lake views are enough to draw any wine lover to t he area, but don’t forget there are wonder ful venues to dine at as well Lake Breeze Winer y has a charm ing patio restaurant tucked into their vineyard With a fantastic menu to choose from, glorious views to soak up and award winning wines to sip the af ternoon away plan to get t here early to snaf fle a table 930 Sammet Road Naramata, (250) 496 5619

The landmark Guishican House Restaurant has reopened in Kelowna af ter undergoing ren ovations This beautiful heritage house and garden is open for lunch and dinner (Thursday through Saturday) wit h Master Chef Georg Reider at t he helm Also available for catering: www world classcatering com 1060 Cameron Avenue Kelowna (250) 862 9368

The upcoming first ever Okanagan Feast of Fields has created a huge buzz in our bustling Val ley Hosted by Valentine Farms in Summerland t his is an event on August 23rd is not to be missed Guests will stroll from station to station sampling wine and food presented by their creators The magical farm setting is t he per fect oppor tunity to experience the Okanagan in its finest form wit h its most impor tant players on stage: t he people who create our beloved food and wine and t he farmers, t he of ten overlooked true heroes of t he food and wine world Valentine Farms is also the home of VinegarWorks where owners Kim Stansfield and John Gordon create delicious wine vineg ars from t he org anic fr uits (and vines) of t he labour Ge t tic ke ts t hrough: www f fcf bc ca/Okanagan Feast Jennifer Schell

Island to Island Shake Up

The inaugural Island to Island Shake up saw a coming together of 24 of the Island’s premiere epicurean establish ments to shake + stir their best Elephant Island cocktails

The Grand Winner "A Sweet Year", featured the '08 Crab Apple Wine and was created by Solomon Seigel of Solomons

Best of Category winners are as follows:

Crab Apple: “Malus Malice”, Chris Jones, Aura at Laurel Point

Apricot Dessert Wine: “Orchard Time”, Solomon Seigel, Solomon’s

Cassis: “Capri Summer”, Fatima DaSilva, Bistro 161

Framboise: “Island Indulgence”, Shannon Brett, Chateau Victoria

V A L U E WINE

T H E W I N E S ]

SPARKLING

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reser ve Par ticuliere NV, Champagne $60.00+

Very fresh with green apple and citrus flavours, good weight with a lovely nip of acidity and a lively persistent mousse Clean and crisp with some yeasty notes on the finish that will keep you coming back for more

WHITES

Joie Riesling 2008, Okanagan, $21.00 $23.00

This is perhaps one of the best BC Ries lings I tasted this year and let me tell you this, my friends, I have tasted a lot of very good Riesling over the last twelve months!

Medium bodied and off dry with a slightly oily texture, juicy crisp acidity and a nose brimming with exotic citrus, spice and honey aromas. Good weight and balance with in tense fruit flavours and a long, long finish. Top notch!

Mt. Boucherie Summit Reser ve Ehrenfelser 06, Okanagan Valley $16.00 $18.00

This supple white from Kelowna is delicious with vibrant tropical fruit and floral aromas, lush concentrated fruit flavours and a slightly oily texture Off dry but perfectly balanced with a juicy cut of bracing acidity An excellent summer sipper at a great price! Very highly recommended

Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling 07, Germany, $21.00 $23.00

Explosive Riesling nose with floral and mineral nuances, full bodied and slightly oily with fresh citrus and honey flavours and lip smacking acidity. A lovely Mosel from a very good producer at a reasonable price, what more need be said?

Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 08, New Zealand, $20.00 - $22.00

Tinpot Hut is pungent, full flavoured and bursting with character! Ripe melon, green pep per and flint nuances assail the nose and caress the palate Well balanced with good weight and enough acidity to make your mouth water! Very tasty indeed

Road 13 Old Vines Chenin Blanc 07, Okanagan Valley, $20.00 $22.00

This textbook Chenin Blanc from the South Okanagan is absolutely delicious! Off dry with lovely balance and a delicate citrus floral bouquet that delivers on the palate. Very refreshing with subtle tropical fruit flavours and a rich core of zingy acidity.

PINK

Croft Pink Por t, Por tugal, $26.00 - $28.00

In the words of Evelyn Waugh “Por t is not for the very young, the vain and the active It is the comfor t of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher ” Amen brother! But that was yesterday, mixed as a tall drink with a couple of ice cubes and a splash of soda puts paid to the philosophical approach Delicious but potent with a “charm that invites excess!”

REDS

Castano Monastrell 2006, Spain, $12.00 $14.00

In another time and place you might have found yourself squir ting a long stream of this robust Spanish red into your mouth out of a goatskin bota Inky black with dark berry, spice and mineral flavours, nicely balanced with some complexity, a firm tannic struc ture and a long chewy finish! Leave the goatskin in the basement and try ser ved in a glass! Excellent value

SPIRITS

Island Spirits Distiller y Phrog Gin, Hornby Island, $50.00+

The quality of gin is often determined with a splash of vermouth and a good olive Let me say this about the Phrog! Waiter, another please! Very exotic indeed, with more than a whisper of coriander, cardamom and cumin seed on top of the standard mélange of botanicals Tough to find but wor th the effor t! Bottoms up

Island Wine on Island Time

This first in a series of six ar ticles on Vancouver Island wineries explores Alderlea Vineyards still young but growing up fast.

by Adem Tepedelen

IN WINE YEARS, VANCOUVER ISL AND and Gulf Islands vineyards are still in their infancy. Though grapes have been grown here and wine made commer cially in these Designated Viticultural Area (DVA) appellations since the late 1980s and early ’90s, much about the land and climate is still being discov ered What has been quite clearly es tablished, though, is that this is a region best suited to cooler climate va rietals, and, for the most par t, that eliminates Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer lot, Syrah and other black grapes that thrive in hot weather and ripen late in the season

But that doesn’t mean great red wines aren’t made here Pinot Noir does wonderfully in the warmth of the Cowichan Valley, and early ripening hy brids such as Marechal Foch have also been grown to make big, fruit forward reds of great stature. Some vintners are even having success with Merlot.

Latitude wise, the islands are roughly in line with nor thern France and central Germany Not surprisingly, many of the varietals that have thus far thrived here Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Or tega, Siegerrebe, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Noir, Pinot Auxerrois and Gewürztraminer are from, or are crosses of grapes from, that area. There’s also much potential for making high quality sparkling wine, which, depending on the style, doesn’t necessarily mean that grapes have to attain the same level of ripeness as table wine

There are challenges here, and limitations, too, but for winemakers willing to take ad vantage of the positives mild winters, proper soil and warm summers wine that reflects the true character of this region, its terroir, can be made Here, then, is the first in a series of six ar ticles, each one looking at a winery that relies largely on estate grown grapes Each of these wineries is discovering, and perhaps establishing, the true taste of Vancouver Is land and Gulf Islands wine.

Alderlea Vineyards

Sitting on the porch of what was once an old barn but now houses Alderlea Vineyards’ small, simple tasting room and winemaking facility, you can pretty much see all the factors that conspire to make its wines consistently good. There is a gentle slope to this south fac ing Cowichan Valley property, providing proper drainage for the eight acres of vines that sur round the building. Off to the southeast, you can see Mount Tzuhalem, a 536 metre sentinel that helps protect the vineyard from cool marine air from the Strait of Georgia. And even on a cloudy spring morning, with the bright green buds of new growth just star ting to erupt along the rough looking vines, it’s still easy to imagine the copious amount of sunshine the grapes will soak up in the long summer days

WINEMAKER ROGER DOSMAN AT THE TOFINO FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

G a r y H y n e s

Alderlea is owned and run by winemaker Roger Dosman and his wife, Nancy. It’s a small operation that produces, at maximum capacity, about 2,000 cases of estate grown wine in a good year That means that every drop of wine that leaves this 10 acre farm, just nor th east of the town of Duncan, came from the grapes nur tured and tended by the Dosmans They need only step out of the back door of their house positioned at the front of the prop er ty by the road to see the entirety of their vineyard stretching up the hill

They bought the proper ty and cleared the trees off in 1992, let the land rest for the whole of 1993 and then planted their first vines, some Bacchus, in 1994. Subsequent years saw plantings of Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot and “all kinds of silly stuff,” according to Roger. “We’ve probably planted 30 or 40 varieties over the years, just to see what works and what doesn’t.”

Not surprisingly, 10 vintages later, he’s still trying, to some degree, to figure that out. Though much of the “silly stuff ” has since been pulled, in a normal year Dosman will bot tle up to 10 different wines The whites include Bacchus, a Chardonnay/Auxerrois blend, Pinot Gris and occasionally Gewürztraminer and Viognier The reds make up more than half of his production and include two Pinot Noirs (a reser ve and “regular”), Merlot, Clarinet (Marechal Foch), Heritage Hear th (por t style) and their newest release, Fusion, made from a Cabernet Sauvignon/Marechal Foch hybrid created by Swiss plant breeder Valentin Blat tner.

Dosman started experimenting with 10 different Blattner hybrids eight years ago mostly reds and thinks that they might well be the future of red wine on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. “Not only do they make great wine,” he says, “but they are also very re sistant to diseases like powdery mildew and botrytis Most of the [Blattner hybrids] have a Cabernet Sauvignon base, which is why they produce more of a warmer climate struc tured wine Here you have this big, fat, juicy, well structured, really nice tannined wine from a cool climate ”

In a cool climate region like Vancouver Island, winemakers have to be more tuned into what the land, the weather and the climate will let them do. Yes, their options may be more limited, but winemakers like Dosman, who accept and acknowledge this, instead of trying to defy it, are learning that some truly remarkable wines can be made here. And in those wines whether they are Pinot Gris or Marechal Foch the true taste, the terroir, of the is land will reveal itself, something Dosman is already seeing in his own vineyard “I can say that after 10 vintages there seems to be something here through all different weather pat terns and seasons,” he says “I think through all of our reds there’s a vein of an allspice character Most are grown up in the lighter gravely soils, and there’s an absolute charac ter of wine there Not only from year to year, but from wine to wine Cer tainly Pinot Noir and Merlot have different flavours from the Foch, but there is a flavour, that’s almost a struc ture, that’s quite unique to us.”

Best vintages: 2000, 2002 2007 (with 2006 a par ticular standout) Tasting room hours: Sat. Sun. 1 5 p.m., March, April, September and December. It can de pend on product availability, so call ahead to confirm they’ll be open Web: N/A Phone: 250 746 7122 Address: 1751 Stamps Rd , Duncan, B C V9L 5W2

& T E R R O I R

N E

S u m m e r F l i n g

The long, warm days of summer are perfect for romancing some new wines.

By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouf fard

SUMMER HA S A WAY OF TURNING US INTO DIFFERENT CREATURES. For a few glorious weeks, we are no longer hud dled indoors as dinner simmers slowly on a hot stove. Predictability and routine give way to spontaneity as we come up with creative ways to enjoy every minute of sunshine. Eating outdoors is the ultimate tribute to the good weather. Fresh local ingredients and an abundance of fruit and vegetables inspire us to eat lighter. Naturally, our drinking habits change as well While we enjoy all styles of wine year round, the hot days and balmy evenings call for something fresh and crisp We tend to bypass big robust reds in favour of lively vibrant whites that are often lower in alcohol Even our behaviour is affected These wines invigorate rather than slow us down, awakening our adventurous spirit

At the first flush of warmer days we reach for a bottle of rosé, a return to our perennial summer lover It is a symbol of sunshine and our go to wine accompaniment with the endless parade of salads that grace our table Be brazen and choose rosé as your escor t to a beach gathering. The volleyball net is pitched and bocce balls are flying. Every one is feeling playful and working up a hunger. The barbecue gets fired up and is soon sizzling with an array of juicy protein. Rather than transitioning from white to red, switch to pink when dusk begins to fall. Being slightly fuller bod ied than most whites, it can stand up to more robust fare. Salmon, tuna, chicken and pork rosé will complement them all and simultaneously charm the ravenous mob. Our coup de coeur this summer is the Domaine du Bosc Rosé. Dangerously drinkable, it may even inspire you to introduce yourself to that intriguing stranger who has been staring at you through the smoke

Nostalgic for summers past, you might be tempted to rekindle the romance with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio Both are wor thy warm weather sippers, if conventional This summer make a pact to venture into the unknown The world of thirst quenching wines offers plenty of diversity For whites, Grüner Veltliner, Vinho Verde and Friulano are just a few routes to explore.

A first encounter with something (or someone) new deser ves a bit of ceremony. Perhaps a romantic dinner date on the patio. What could be more sophisticated than a Grüner Veltliner from Austria to add to the ambience? Chic and el egant yet well priced, Grüner Veltliner marries well with spicy ceviche made from fresh local fish as well as dishes with an Asian influence Dry with a slightly peppery character, Grüner’s vibrant acidity balances the explosion of gen erous citrus fruit Schloss Gobelsberg is a great introduction Chenin Blanc is equally classy and encountered in the whites of France’s Loire Valley like the Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’ Trust Australia to offer an interesting twist on Chenin Blanc where it is blended with Sémillon in the Kalleske, Clarry’s Barossa White An unusual match by traditional standards, but when these two grapes meet, fireworks erupt This summer tryst is heating up A weekend getaway looks very promising as you leave the city in a conver tible with the top down If you stop for a picnic lunch, make it long and leisurely. Lounging on a blanket with your favourite book and new friend is truly heaven, especially when you have a delicious tipple to accompany a few snacks. Vinho Verde is the perfect candidate to en hance this romantic escapade. Zippy, slightly effer vescent with vivacious flavours of lime and lemon, it will work like a charm with a fresh Greek salad. This thirst quenching gem hails from Por tugal and most examples are very afford able Try the A zul Portugal at $15 or, if you really want to impress, the Touquinheiras for $34 Off the beaten track, wines can measure your prospective mate’s sense of adventure Test them Italian style, pouring the Poggiobello Friulano from Friuli with prosciutto Or try something completely different like the Casalone Cor tese from Piemonte with pickled herring It’s your summer fling; you have nothing to lose If you haven’t scared your date away yet, you’ll still have a hiking companion the next day After an exhausting trek and a swim to cool down, canoodle by the campfire with a glass of red. There is nothing more appropriate in the sum

mer than the

Slightly chilled,

is simply mar vellous

The concept of chill ing a red may seem a bit odd. We are not suggesting you chill it for hours. Rather put the bottle in the cooler for 20 minutes or so Lighter reds such as Dolcetto, Valpolicella, Beaujolais, G amay and Pinot Noir are the best candidates These cheerful reds are also great mates with meatier grilled fish like salmon and tuna

Long after your fleeting getaway has ended, you may continue to cool down those summer reds. And some of the newly dis covered grape varieties could become staples in your repertoire. You may kiss many frogs until you find your prince. We have ac tually found quite a few. Luckily, we don’t have to limit ourselves to one when it comes to wine. Some of our flings have become year round favourites

spicy reds from the South of France

Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ from Corbières

with grilled sausages.

T a s t i n g N o t e s

Whites

2007 Azul Por tugal, Vinho Verde, Por tugal, $15.00*

Made from two indigenous Por tuguese grapes, Arinto and Trajadura, A zul’s Vinho Verde is the ultimate summer wine. It’s piercing acidity and the exotic combo of peach and lime flavours screams for seafood ceviche Great value!

2008 Storks’ Tower, Vino de la Tierra Castilla y León, Spain, $14.99

A nice twist on your typical summer Sauvignon Blanc, Storks’ Tower includes some Verdejo to add personality. Fresh cut grass and lime aromas lead to an explosion of citrus on the palate A fantastic match for summer salads

2007 Casalone, Cor tese, Piemonte DOC, Italy, $17.00*

While Cortese can be bland, this is not the case here. Casalone is one of the most characterful finds of the summer Pronounced aromas of pine and lemon balm strangely bring you to Greece rather than Italy A great match with feta cheese sprinkled lightly with rosemary and olive oil.

2006 Château Megyer, Dr y Furmint, Hungar y, $22.00*

This is your risqué summer fling that could turn into an unexpectedly deep love affair Fur mint is a charming Hungarian grape that beguiles the palate Beautiful expressive aromas and flavours of musk, orange and white flowers don’t require food to be enjoyed, but it’s a great match with a spinach mandarin salad

2007 Poggiobello, Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy, $24.99

Even though Friulano is the most planted white grape in Friuli, Italy, we seldom see it on our shelves. Poggiobello exudes all the charm of Friulano. Delicious apple, pear and honeyed notes are balanced by good acidity and a slight bitterness Juicy and elegant, it marries well with seafood dishes

2006 Kalleske, Clarr y’s Barossa White, Barossa Valley, Australia, $29.00* (50 percent Sémillon, 50 percent Chenin Blanc) It looks like Sémillon has found a fantastic par tner; the two grapes blend like a charm Intense and concentrated aromas of lanolin, honeyed lime and grapefruit repeat on the palate. With 12.5 percent alcohol, this is testi mony that Aussie whites can be refreshing.

Rosés

2008 Morandé ‘Pionero’ Central Valley, Chile, $14.00*

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Morandé ‘Pionero’ is the wine to have when you’re seeking a fuller wine but still want something cold. Pronounced wild strawberries, water melon and blood orange notes call for bouillabaisse, paella or any garlic dominated seafood dish Fantastic value

2007 Domaine du Bosc Rosé, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, $20 00*

Fresh flavours of rhubarb and grapefruit linger on your palate and make the perfect aperitif. Be a great neighbour and invite the folks next door to share this pleasure over a plate of cured meat and cheese Beware; it’s way too easy to drink, so make sure you have a second bottle on hand!

Reds

2006 Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ Corbières AOC, France, $17.00*

Southern French wines are a must for the cooler summer nights This Corbières’ floral nose lured us into considering a fling and we weren’t disappointed Here you find classic dried herbs and raspberry flavours typical of the area. Very well priced, indeed!

2007 Blue Mountain, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC, $24.90*

Vibrant fresh and pure aromas of cherry with pleasant truffly ear thy notes Great concen tration of flavours. Wow! This could be the best Pinot Noir Blue Mountain has ever made. Its crunchy red fruit will work like a charm with salmon in a strawberry sauce. Very Burgundian in style

Other finds wor th having a fling with:

Whites

2007 Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’ Saumur AOC, France, $18 75

2007 Domaine Schloss Gobelsberg, Grüner Veltliner, Austria, $19.99

2007 Leon Manbach, Alsace, France (65 percent Sylvaner, 35 percent Pinot Blanc), $20 00*

2007 Lingenfelger, Riesling Kabinett, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pfalz, Germany $22 99

2006 Rutherglen Estates ‘The Alliance’ Victoria, Australia, (70 percent Marsanne, 30 percent Viognier), $24 00*

Rosés

2007 Collavini, Villa Canlungo ‘Corno Rosazzo’ Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy $19.99

*Wines available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.

DOMESTIC WINE SPECIALISTS OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK WINERY DIRECT PRICES CHILLED WINES ~ AT NO EXTRA COST HUGE SELECTION OF ICEWINE WEDDING & PARTY PLANNING FREE DELIVERY ON CASE ORDERS FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO WWW.BCWINEGUYS.COM

DIY Limoncello

continue their quest for all things homemade (think cured biody namic heritage pork cheek) or the next big drink (the “modern” old fashioned), Limoncello seems to have it all history and authenticity with working class roots, praise from chefs from Batali to Oliver and, best of all, a high percentage of alcohol. The lemon liqueur secured its celeb status when Danny DeVito showed up drunk for a taping of The View, blaming the “last seven Limoncellos” he con sumed following a boozy lunch with pal George Clooney. Thought to have originated somewhere in the Amalfi Coast region of Italy in the early 20th century, Limoncello has been getting some ice time in fashion able restaurants on both sides of the Atlantic as ingredient, cock tail and digestivo (although hopefully not all in one sitting) The do it yourself version allows you to adjust the sweetness level to suit your palate (I opt for less sweet just enough to cut some of the sting). Warning: Pa tience is paramount here. The lemon zest must infuse for two months Star t now for late summer sipping

Homemade Limoncello

• 15 20 organic lemons

• 2 750 ml bottles vodka

• 1 cup simple syrup (add 1 cup sugar to 1 cup water and boil 5 10 minutes until slight thick ening occurs, let cool)

Star t by washing and drying the lemons Then, using a sharp knife, shave thin slices of lemon zest, trying not to get the white pith as well. If you do, cut again to remove white pith or it will impar t a bitter flavour Add to a clean jar with a tight fitting lid (I use large format olive jars. You may need to ask your favourite chef or bar tender to keep one for you) and top with vodka. The lemon zest should be completely submerged in vodka Put on lid and store in cool dark place for two months

After two months, strain, discard lemon peels and put liquid back in glass jar Mix in your simple syrup Add more or less to taste Mix well, cover with lid and store in cool place again for 2 4 weeks at which point you can put into bottles and store in the freezer

Ready in two to three months, you’d best get this project on the go Here are three ways to admire your own handiwork, before, during and after a meal with friends.

Before: Limoncello Fizz

• 2 oz Limoncello

• Half a lime, juiced

• 1 Tbsp simple syrup

• Soda water

In a cocktail shaker or large glass, shake Limoncello, lime juice and simple syrup over ice Strain liquid into another glass and top with soda water

Even harder than the other leading brand, this lemonade packs a punch Try setting your friends up for your next bocce ball tourney with a few of these refreshments. In fact, make those doubles and maybe you’ll win Try a soda siphon with reusable CO2 car tridges and save valuable space in your recycling bin. Serve some citrus coated pistachios (available at your closest Persian market) and your friends may never leave.

During: Prosecco Cocktail

• 1 oz Limoncello

• 2 oz blood orange juice (or other orange juice)

• Prosecco

Mix Limoncello with orange juice and top with prosecco This refreshing change from a mi mosa or bellini can be ser ved up as a cocktail or with a first course of crostini with Dunge ness crab, lemon, mint and chili

After: Straight Up and Chilled

When it’s time to cap off that perfect dinner or, ahem, lunch if you’re lucky, reach for a couple of chilled shot glasses and a frosty bottle of Limoncello and kick it old school straight up as a digestivo (that’s Italian for “medicinal purposes only”).