EAT Magazine 15-04 July|August 2011

Main Plates

Chops & Tarts 20

Farms That Feed Us 23

Kitchen Cool . . . . . . . . .26

Food Heroes 36

Destination Summerland 42

Tapas

Concierge Desk 06 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .07

Epicure At Large 08

Good For You . . . . . . . . .09

Top Shelf 10

Food Matters 11

Kitchen Science . . . . . . .12

Chefs’ Talk 13 & 46

Restaurant Reporter . . . 14 & 44 Eating Well for Less 17

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .30

Wine & Food Pairing 32

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .34

Island Wines & Drinks 35

Okanagan Wines . . . . . .47

News from around BC . .37

Cover photography: GLORIOUS SUMMER by Michael Tourigny

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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear Editorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet Online DRINK Editor Treve Ring

Community Reporters

Nanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, V Vaannc c o u uvve e r r: : Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli Blake

Contributors Larry Arnold, Peter Bagi, Michelle Bouffard, E v a C h e r n e f f , Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Tracey Kusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sherri Martin, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, J e n n y U e c h i , Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West, M e l o d y We y

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark Advertising: 250 384 9042, advertise@eatmagazine ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, Tel: 250 384 9042

These days there are many ways for EAT readers to connect, be a part of the EAT community, and to stay up to date on the food and wine happenings in our area EAT magazine launched in 1998 with a printed version that was easily found in food shops, wine stores, and book stores in Victoria and later, throughout British Columbia

But since 2004, we have also been at the forefront of developing an online experience EAT was one of the first Canadian magazine publications to go online with our full issue, free, web based EAT Digital Editions. We also worked hard to develop www eatmagazine ca, a website that was considered state of the art in 2004

In 2008, we added Tapas, our bimonthly newsletter, now with over 5,000 subscribers Since those early days we’ve grown, matured a little, and worked with numerous writers, photographers, and editors to expand our coverage and bring you fresh, seasonal and exclusive editorial content.

Today, I’d like to introduce you to EAT 2 0, our new and completely revamped website Developed in conjuction with talented designer Peter Bagi and code master extraordinaire Balazs Bagi, EAT’s new website is content rich, photography driven, infinitely searchable and very viewer friendly.

I invite you to take EAT: The Website for a test drive, I think you will find the experience exciting and rewarding We offer the same, well loved mix of food, restaurants, recipes, drink reviews, event listings and travel articles but in a 21st century, up to the minute style. Each day of the week you will find something new If you like what you see bookmark the page (www eatmagazine ca) and let us know how we’re doing Good eating! Gary Hynes, Editor

EAT’s Revamped Website

EAT Magazine’s newly revamped website is live and full of great new features! The editors and contributors are very excited to present a new format that showcases all the great food, wine, drink and travel of British Columbia.

What began initially as a conversation between myself and EAT editor Gary Hynes about writing a weekly article quickly turned into a discussion on creating a whole new experience for the EAT website visitor With the growing preference for “Googling” among Web users, and more thematic online searching, we agreed it was time to give the existing EAT website a facelift

The goal for the new site was to create a richer, more intuitive online experience that makes it easier to find the articles you’re looking for A greater focus on graphics, images and movement was key, with a fresh new logo the first step in the revamping process The logo’s strong, elegant typography represents a more modern approach, and the colour coded badges (circles) for each of the main subject categories echo its look Click on any of the badges, and you will be presented with the most recent articles within that category. Colour coding and the use of typography is another fun way to engage the viewer and to encourage further exploring

Click on one of the “Editor’s Picks” to see what’s new and happening Want to see what’s currently trending? Click on the “Explore” tab and see the rotating topics cloud Pick any word that pops out at you and follow it through to an article. This feature opens the door to an element of play for the reader and an opportunity for the magazine to present unique and creative content

Another great way to present content is through the use of large images The first thing you notice when you land on the new EAT site is the large image that rotates through the Editor’s Picks. Right away, you’re presented with a very rich experience and choosing an article becomes more enjoyable

Once you find an image and article that grabs your attention, scroll to the bottom and take a look at what’s there You are presented with a group of images in a “you might also like” feature. These are other articles the editors feel you might enjoy based on what you are currently reading For the reader, this presents an excellent opportu nity to see more great content and to explore and engage further within the site For the writers, it means no more articles buried deep in a website archives

At the end of the day, what will keep you coming back again and again is the quality of the content We know that EAT Magazine contributors have always been successful at this, but now we can offer it on a more modern, fresh and beautiful platform Visit us at www.eatmagazine.ca and take the tour

Web d e s i g n er Pe t e r Bag i e x p la i n s h o w t h e new site offers a richer, more intuitive online experience for readers.

JULY

HEALTHY CUISINE FROM BC GARDENS

This UBC culinar y arts summer program, running July 5 and 7 or July 11, 13 and 15, focuses on healthy recipes and uses locally grown organic ingredients. Register early as enrolment is limited $525, includes course materials, a chef’s apron and five multi course meals. (www languages ubc ca/culinaryarts)

OKANAGAN SUMMER WINE FESTIVAL

The Summer Okanagan Wine Festival is bringing you the almost excruciatingly gorgeous Summer experience: outdoor wine tastings with more bold flavored wines than you could ever desire; summer wine and cheese beach parties; road bike race tailgate parties in vineyard settings; the visceral sound of Spoken Word poetr y matched with equally feisty wines July 8 16 (www thewinefestivals com)

OUTSTANDING IN THE FIELD

North Arm Farm, Pemberton, BC, July 9th (www outstandinginthefield com)

GRUBS SUMMER CAMP

Put on by the Lifecycles Project Society and the Greater Victoria Compost Education Centre, this exciting day camp offers fun and educational agriculturally based experiences including exploring urban farms, building our own compost bins, playing with worms, learning about local food, planting seeds and growing veggies, outdoor games and activities, daily farm field trips and much more. July 11 15, from 9am 3pm Ages 6 9 yrs Cost: $175 (bursaries and payment plans available) (250)386 9676) or outreach@compost.bc.ca

MAHLE HOUSE GARDEN PARTY

This year a whole pig provided by Stilted House Farm. July 17, www.mahlehouse.ca

TASTE

Thursday July 21, 2011, Taste: Victoria's Festival of Food and Wine See page 35 for more details or visit www.victoriataste.com

SLOW FOOD VAN CYCLE TOURS

The 5th Cycle Tour Agassiz will be held on Saturday, July 23rd and the 3rd Cycle Tour Chilliwack will be held on Sunday, July 24th It’s going to be a wonderfully s l o w weekend! The cycle tours are aligned with the Slow Food movement and are designed to connect producers with co producers (a slow food term for consumers as we are in partnership with our farmers) www slowfoodvancouver com)

TOUR OF FARMS 2011

Learn all about farming and have fun, too Free farm tours Sponsored by the Southern Vancouver Island Direct Farm Marketing Association. Sunday, July 24 10am 4pm. (www islandfarmfresh com)

AUGUST

PENTICTON PEACH FESTIVAL

PEACHFEST is an annual, South Okanagan Valley tradition, which first began in 1947, to celebrate the peach harvest in Penticton This five day extravaganza features live en tertainment, a wide variety of food and more Peachfest 2011 runs from Aug 3 7, on the shores of Okanagan Lake in Down town Penticton peachfest com

CRESTON MUSEUM TEA

Step back into the past for an afternoon! Staff and maybe even some of the guests in period costume complete the picture Three seatings are available, at 1:00, 2:00, and 3:00 PM, and reservations are strongly recommended August 13 in Creston, BC

GALIANO ISLAND WINE FESTIVAL Aug. 13 from 1:00 pm 4:00.

www galianowinefestival com

NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAIL

Enjoy a weekend celebration of farming, cultural events and family fun in beautiful rural North Saanich August 20 21 www northsaanich ca

FEAST OF FIELDS

Feast of Fields is FarmFolk/CityFolk’s annual fundraiser Net proceeds support their work year round as they help to create a sustainable food system for British Columbia Not only will guests have a great culinary experience but they will also be in vesting in a secure food future The Okanagan Feast of Fields will be held August 21 from 1 5 pm, at Van Westen Vineyards and Orchards, Naramata The Krause Berry Farm in Langley will host the 17th annual Lower Mainland Feast of Fields on Sunday, September 11, from 1pm 5pm

The Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will be held Sunday, September 18th, from 1 5 pm at the Marley Farm in Saanichton For ticket purchase information visit www.feastoffields.com

On going

THE OAK BAY VILLAGE NIGHT MARKET

Taking place on the third Wednesday of July, August and September, the night mar kets will feature local produce, artisans, music and special events in Oak Bay Vil lage. The Oak Bay Village Night Market fea tures produce from farms throughout southern Vancouver Island

RICHMOND

SUMMER NIGHT MARKET

Starting May 13. The only one of its kind in North America, as authentic as the orig inal Night Markets throughout Asia (www.summernightmarket.com)

STEVESTON FARMERS AND ARTISANS MARKET

Located at the corner of Third Avenue and Moncton Street in Steveston (www sfam ca)

Cool Cucumber

Cucumber’s clean, crisp flavour is a natural for summer cooking

Crunchy, juicy and refreshing, cucumbers are used around the world to make salads, soups, salsas, spreads and dips And throughout the Middle East, yogurt often acts as a creamy counterpart to the cuke’s crisp, clean taste. Tarator, a chilled soup similar to Bulgarian cucumber and walnut soup (recipe below), is made with yogurt, garlic and cucumbers Hazelnuts or almonds are used instead of walnuts, and mint instead of dill It can be prepared as a thin sauce, a liquid salad, a soup or a dip for calamari or fried fish Variations include Iraq’s jajeek, served with arak (an anise flavoured alcohol) as a meze (appetizer), and Iran’s mast o khiar, which contains shallots instead of garlic The tarator concept can be tweaked to suit your taste Try yogurt cuke soup made with garlic, parsley, jalapeño peppers, green onions, dill, radishes and lemon juice

Middle Eastern cacik, a thin sauce made with chopped cucumbers, yogurt, salt, olive oil, crushed garlic, dill, mint and lime juice, is eaten with meat and rice dishes. The mixture is diluted with water and garnished with crushed sumac Persian cucumber borani, made with yogurt, paper thin cuke slices, minced onions, garlic, mint and lemon juice, can be garnished with chopped walnuts and golden raisins or minced marjoram and basil.

Greek tzatziki is a thicker riff on the cuke yogurt theme made with strained sheep or goat’s milk yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, salt, olive oil, pepper and dill Lemon juice, parsley and mint are optional Tzatziki can be served as a dip for keftedes (meatballs) or grilled pita. Homemade tzatziki is much more flavourful than store bought, so it is well worth the effort

Raita, a chilled Indian yogurt condiment, is served with spicy dishes to cool the tongue A variety of spices (cumin, cayenne pepper and coriander), minced vegetables (cucumbers or carrots) or herbs (mint, cilantro or chervil) are added to thick yogurt.

The Lebanese salad fattoush features crisp fried pita triangles, seasonal veggies, (cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, bell peppers), and fresh summer herbs (mint, parsley and cilantro) Agurkesalat, a tangy Danish salad, is made by placing a weight atop salted thin cukes overnight The cukes are drained and combined with water, vinegar, sugar and white pepper, marinated several hours, and sprinkled with dill.

Benedictine sandwich spread, invented by Kentucky restaurateur Jenny Benedict in 1893, is made by pulsing grated peeled cukes, cream cheese, grated onions, mayo, sour cream, salt and dill in a blender until it becomes a chunky puree

Spice up grilled meat or fish with a Thai combo of mango, cukes, vinegar, sugar, salt, fish sauce, chilies, red onions, cilantro and mint Ice cold cucumber tomato gazpacho elevates the taste of seasonal veggies Use cukes to add crunch to crab, shrimp or vegetarian makizushi rolls For something completely different, sauté blanched julienned cuke “noodles” in butter with mint, salt, pepper, lemon juice and zest; serve with fish.

Don’t forget the pickles when you picnic on a golden summer afternoon After lunch, you can lie in the shade with cuke circles soothing your eyes and chill out until you’re as cool as a cucumber yourself

Bulgarian Cuke Soup

4 tbsp brown rice vinegar or lemon juice

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp finely ground sea salt, to taste

1/4 tsp ground white pepper, to taste

2 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped

1/4 cup lightly toasted unsalted walnuts, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely minced

1 1/2 cups peeled, seeded cucumbers, finely chopped

1/2 cup milk (soy or cow)

1 1 1/2 cups thick , unflavoured yoghur t

Cover and refrigerate this tangy cold soup 2 to 6 hours before ser ving

In a medium sized bowl, combine vineg ar (or lemon juice), oil, salt, pepper, dill, walnuts and garlic Stir until well combined, and t hen add cucumbers Cover and cool in t he refr ig erator Add cold milk and yogur t and stir t he mixture Adjust t he flavours be fore ser ving by adding more vineg ar or lemon juice Place a few ice cubes in each bowl before pouring in t he soup

A Local Story.

Local fisherman Tim Webster fills our dockside crab cage each Friday, where the crabs thrive in the ocean currents. Look out the window when you order and you’ll see our crew hurrying down the dock to get your dinner. Simple, natural and incredibly fresh. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day. Beach 1327 www

The Princely Fish

With salmon stocks dwindling, especially in the Fraser River this past spring, it is, if not comforting, at least instructive to remember that this is a blip in the long history of the princely fish The Romans had no salmon in the Mediterranean, but that did n’t stop them from hauling live salmon, in lead lined cistern carts, across Gaul and down the Loire or Rhine into Italy Victor Hugo neglected to mention it in The Hunch back of Notre Dame, but the Seine of the Middle Ages ran thickly with the fish. The Thames, too And the Rhine was the richest salmon river in Europe until it was trans formed into a watery ribbon of filth Salmon’s always been fussy about its habitat

Although it is a beautiful fish, an incomparable fish with its tangerine hued flesh and buttery consistency, salmon used to be too abundant to be fashionable. Charles Dickens equated eating it with poverty Indentured ser vants in Britain’s American colonies were so incensed by the omnipresence of salmon, their contracts actually stipulated they endure it no more than once a week

While wealthy Europeans and English peons in the Americas dodged salmon Hell, the native peoples of the Pacific Northwest were gorging themselves happily on different “tribes” of salmon: chinook, coho, sockeye, chum, spring They conducted prayers and dances for the regularity of the great salmon runs, as many as seven a year

In those days, the abundance of spawning salmon was fabulous: early traders claimed they could ford a river on their backs At one point, the boats of explorers Lewis and Clark had to force a passage through the mass of fish British Columbia’s Salmon Arm was so named because the run was so dense, the locals could pitchfork them out of the river, afflicting themselves with a “salmon arm” like tennis elbow.

Today the fish occupies an elite position on the tables of a small handful of lucky nations: Norway, Scotland, Ireland, Canada and Australia, where Atlantic salmon is being farmed in the chilly waters of Tasmania The Norwegians marinate it and smoke it quite wonderfully, but you don’t want them cooking it The Scots and Irish are rightly renowned for their smoked product.

The Japanese catch masu, a bland and homely species, off northernmost Hokkaido, where I was once honoured with a platter of eyeballs and, when I declined, was served a stew of brain cage and genitals

My best salmon meal ever was a buffet breakfast in St. Petersburg. A silver platter groaned with thick slabs of smoked salmon, and next to it stood a huge silver terrine spilling over with salmon roe The salmon was unctuous and mouth filling The tan gerine eggs popped and burst across the tongue It called for champagne, but it was 8 a.m.

I love salmon. I love how we Canadians can bring to it all the accents and excite ments of the global village kitchen

My wife is a salmon master Possibly she will chop it coarsely, drizzle it with lemon oil and serve it as a tartare Or she’ll marinate it for a few minutes in rice vinegar, lemon oil, green onion and coriander, slice it thinly and fan it out with dollops of B C chum caviar as a garnish

Or maybe she’ll do the cheater’s smoked salmon favoured by some Toronto fish mongers: marinate a centre cut fillet with rock salt, brown sugar and liquid smoke for three days, turning daily. You don’t need a smokehouse and, odds are, you won’t be able to detect the difference.

Maybe she’ll wrap fat slabs in flaky sheets of phyllo pastry and roast them just so Or maybe I’ll do the man thing, spread thick fillets with a crust of Indian spices or miso, slap it on the barbecue and grill it rare Maybe there is a heaven Maybe you can get there without being dead.

Once too abundant to be fashionable, in the 21st centur y, dwindling salmon stocks remind us of its preciousness.

epicure at

large

by Jeremy Ferguson

Healthy Trails

Summer getaways are undeniably rejuvenating and good for the soul, but unfortunately they can derail even the most diligent of healthy diets Travel introduces a whole world of temptation and often includes long hours of driving or flying and busy itineraries that make fast food appealing and convenient However, with a little planning, maintaining a healthy menu while travelling is possible Here are some suggestions to help you stay trim and healthy on your summer travels.

On the plane

If your itinerar y includes flying, your palate and your body will rejoice if you bypass the airline’s mediocre fare and bring your own food onboard Typical airline cuisine consists of items that are high in sodium, devoid of nutritional value and most often tasteless While you may not be allowed to bring fruits and vegetables into the country you’re visiting, you can certainly carry these items onboard with you to eat on the plane. I often carr y whole grain sandwiches, raw veggies and fresh fruit in zippered plastic bags In addition, I will tote along some nuts and seeds and a few protein bars to snack on between meals If I’m flying out of Vancouver, I’ll stop by one of YVR’s healthy food outlets and pick up a take aboard meal Rice Tales has great Asian inspired seafood and noodle dishes in biodegradable packaging The Green Bean Café’s paninis and salads are tasty and nutritious, and Jugo Juice offers energizing vegetarian wraps and fresh pressed juices. A personal favourite, the Camden Food Co. (enRoute magazine’s sandwich retailer of the year), makes delicious organic salads, soups, wraps and, of course, their renowned deli sandwiches Peruse www traveltowell ness com before your return flight home for a list of healthy food options at various airports around the globe

By car

Touring any countr y by car can be a great adventure, but if you rely on ser vice stations, diners and fast food outlets for your meals, your health will suffer A little planning can help you escape “junk food bloat” quite easily A small cooler is de rigueur for lengthy car trips You can pack it with individually wrapped portions of cheese, yogurt, lean meat sandwiches, raw veggies and hummus During the summer months, stopping at local farmer’s markets en route is a great way to refill the cooler and explore the local food scene, wherever the locale. Non perishable items like energy bars, nuts, seeds and whole grain crackers also make great travelling companions Obviously, you won’t want to have every meal in the car part of the fun of travelling is enjoying inspired cooking in new regions I use www urbanspoon com to make a list of great eating spots along my route before starting my journey The site allows you to view menus and reviews for restaurants across North America, in even the smallest towns.

At the hotel

Many higher end hotel chains are now offering healthy cuisine Delta and Marriott, for example, have spa inspired food on their menus And the Fairmont recently began offering “Lifestyle Cuisine Plus,” a new menu available upon request for guests with specific dietary needs or preferences. Every request, from gluten free to raw vegan, can be accommodated. I often start my day with breakfast at the hotel even budget digs offer healthy fare like oatmeal, or yogurt and fruit in the morning and enjoy the rest of the day’s eats elsewhere Of course the best, and cheapest, way to make sure your accommodation doesn’t hinder your diet is to opt for a vacation rental suite You can explore your destination’s hidden food gems great bakeries, cheese shops, produce stands and bring your plunder home to devour in your kitchenette.

Eating wholesome food while travelling can be easy with a few simple guidelines.

Fairf ield Market

The whole beast

Two years after making their mark on James Bay’s food scene with the Niagara Grocery, Jennifer

and Ken

opened a second shop called Fairfield Market in March 2011 to the delight of Fairfield food lovers Both stores are dedicated to providing local seasonal produce and a variety of specialty food items

“Neighbourhood grocery stores, which were once prevalent, have dwindled in num ber There are less than 10 in the entire city Jennifer and I saw this niche between a convenience store and a supermarket,” Winchester explains “Food awareness has grown to the point that many people yearn for that community shopping experience We felt the corner grocery could represent the convergence of current food trends local, slow, gluten free, vegetarian, vegan, food security concerns and more a place where all these movements could come together and people could gather to talk about food Food creates community ”

With its 12 foot high ceilings, refurbished fir floors, paintings by local artists and her itage hued burgundy and yellow walls, the inviting turn of the century space is prov ing that everything old is new again An array of baskets filled with colourful local produce welcomes customers outside, while inside the aroma of roasting coffee fills the air A contented customer sips and munches at one of two indoor tables In warmer weather, outdoor tables are placed on the sidewalk of the quiet tree lined street.

Winchester and McKimmie have more than 60 suppliers and offer produce from 30 local farmers, most of whom run micro farms that only grow one product “Relation ships with local farmers mean everything in this business,” says Winchester Lining the shelves are James Bay honey, bread by Matt (Glynn) and five other local bakeries, free range eggs, Slater’s meats, Cowichan Bay seafood, Gabriola garlic, Galloping Goose sausages, local hazelnuts and an excellent selection of bottled, boxed and bagged good ies, such as Hot Chick Spice Company’s Duqqa (an Egyptian almond and spice dip), George Szasz’s preserved lemons and flour milled from Metchosin’s StillMeadow Farm wheat. “We’ll bring in anything customers request because we’ve always felt the com munity shapes our business When people thank us for being here, that’s the best re ward ”

Fairfield Market is open seven days a week, from 8 a m to 7 p m on weekdays, and from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sundays, at 1275 Oscar St., near Fairfield and Moss Street. For more information, call 250 590 1772, visit their website at www.getfreshwithalo cal com or read tweets at http://twitter com/#!/fairfieldmarket Sylvia Weinstock

Jennnifer M c cKKimmie & Keen W Winnchhest e er r a at t t thheeiir neew w loccal f foooods s st t o orre i in Faai i r rfield

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

McKimmie

Winchester

Sardines: The Fish and Tips

This forgotten little fish is returning in droves to our waters. Here’s how to enjoy them.

My father’s ideal start to a day was a couple of kippers (split, cold smoked herring) or sardines on toast, grilled tomatoes and a cup of strong tea. I came to love that break fast too, and a sardine sandwich was my equivalent of a PB&J I guess I inherited dad’s tastebuds

I love little oily fishes and make no bones about it Bring on herring, mackerel, anchovies (double them up on a pizza), whitebait, trout, smelts and sardines (In the early 1970s, I also feasted on crispy fried B C oolichans, revered by First Nations, but sadly these have become endangered.)

Not everyone shared my fishy ardour. A couple of workmates once barred me, and my sardine mustard and red onion on rye sandwich, from the lunchroom because of the “fishy” smell Oily fish’s darker flesh is far less pretty than, say, pearly halibut and tends to be bony And it’s true it can have an odour that can be off putting to the unaccustomed nostril But like any seafood, the fish should still smell clean, not “rank ” Tinned in oil fish should never smell rancid Nutritionists regard sardines as a “superfood” for their omega 3 fatty acids, potassium and niacine content, and their relatively low calories. Add to that their low cost and the willingness of some of our hallowed chefs to put them on the menu. (Blue Water Café’s Frank Pabst to name one )

That’s getting North Americans to rethink the sardine And I say, “Welcome back ” Until the 1940s, fresh sardines played a major role in the west coast fishing indus try (John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel Cannery Row is centred around Monterey’s now defunct sardine factories ) Overfishing was the probable cause of the sardine’s demise The major comeback of these speedy swimmers is apparently due to changing ocean conditions. According to a Vancouver Sun article published this past April, sardines have returned to the B.C. coast in schools “thick enough to walk on, creating a fascinating spectacle and new fishery on Vancouver Island ” The article quotes Dan Treend, one of the owners of Richmond’s Breakers Fish Co , which operates three seine boats out of Zeballos from June to October (sardine season) “It’s a fantastic fishery It’s a very clean fishery, there’s very little bycatch Most of the catch is 100 percent sardines I am sure they [sardines] have always been here to some degree, but not in big schools like they are now. When they school up, it’s like a cloud passing over the sun; you see a giant cloud of fish going by.”

We are the lucky beneficiaries of this marvellous performance

You can purchase fresh whole sardines, a member of the herring family, directly from the Steveston docks every summer Regulations dictate they be sold guts intact Here’s how you handle a whole fresh sardine, which is larger and meatier than its canned cousin Make sure the fish is firm, bright scaled and clear eyed Gutting and boning a sardine is easy (the squeamish can ask a fishmonger or friend to do it) Steady the fish firmly with your hand, or a fork. Remove the head with a sharp knife, then slice the fish from top to tail along its belly. The innards simply spill out (I performed this operation recently It was not particularly “icky” and there was no smell at all) Open the fish and scrape away any remaining goop The bones lift out easily Rinse the fish thoroughly under cold water inside and out Pat the flesh dry with a paper towel

You are now ready to prepare these little beauties

Let me count the ways:

• Grill sardines basted with olive oil, lemon and sprinkled with sea salt. This is by far the easiest and most delicious way to enjoy them.

• Wrap them in grape leaves and bake with olives, fresh herbs and lemon.

• Skin and flake cooked sardine flesh Toss with new potatoes in a sherry vinaigrette

• Plate with slices of marinated English cucumber, red onion and buttered rye bread for a luncheon salad

• “Devil” eggs by mashing yolks with flaked meat, Dijon mustard, a little smoked paprika and just a bit of mayo

• Substitute sardines for anchovies when making olive tapenade.

• Or do as the Romans do. Stuff sardines with spinach, roll in beaten egg and flour and fry in a little oil

Just don’t turn your nose up at them

Kitchen Science

For the $529 that a copy of Modernist Cuisine by Nathan Myhrvold, Chris Young and Maxime Bilet will set you back, you could invest in a low end iPad and load it with some great cooking apps from Martha Stewart or Jamie Oliver But then, you’d miss out on a magnificent five volume (plus kitchen manual), 2,438 page work of art full of jaw drop ping photography and comprehensive culinary information that won’t be obsolete in a year or two. The spiral bound manual, which contains the actual recipes, is possibly the most kitchen friendly book you’ll ever own Printed on waterproof, stain and rip resistant paper, it could, conceivably, go into the dishwasher Try that with an iPad! In truth, the recipes in Modernist Cuisine aren’t anything most of us would actually use to get dinner on the table. But they are useful both as inspiration and as guides, particularly if you’ve embraced sous vide, a method of cooking vacuum sealed food slowly in a water bath Since our copy arrived earlier this spring, my husband and I have been scouring the book, primarily for information the hows and whys of combining ingredients then adding or subtracting heat to achieve something edible, if esoteric. The results are often more complicated than is strictly necessar y. British sous vide wizard Heston Blumenthal’s idea of a perfect hamburger, for example, calls for 30 hours of prep time, plus a bowl of liquid nitrogen To date, we’ve experimented with techniques but haven’t yet tried any actual recipes (though popcorn seasoned with powdered duck fat is tempting).

Where the book really comes into its own is as an encyclopedia of food knowledge as my husband describes it, “Harold McGee on steroids.” (The American author has written extensively on the science of food.) There are exhaustive chapters on subjects like food safety and hygiene, the fundamental nature of ingredients such as meats and plants, and the physics behind cooking techniques and tools I particularly appreciate the over all organization and indexing of the volumes The recipes are particularly well presented, using the principles of baker’s percentages, an invaluable method for scaling recipes in general, and in particular for solving everyday mysteries like just how much salt to add to a given recipe (1 percent by weight is the recommended level) Moder nist Cuisine isn’t encroaching on Best of Bridge territor y, and it will never displace Joy of Cooking in anyone’s cookbook collection. And there are critics aplenty. One chef friend of ours argues that the modernist approach to cuisine, with its emphasis on manipulating the molecular structure of food by way of foams, gels and centrifuges, is nothing more than attention seeking gimmickry She argues that classic techniques should be enough to satisfy the most discriminating appetite. But humans have always manipulated food, both for palatability and portability, as well as for fun and aesthetic satisfaction In fact, that propensity to play with food is precisely what makes us human, some anthropologists argue Modernist cuisine is simply another form of culinar y exploration As Blumenthal asks, “Where do you draw the line? The logical end result of this kind of purist thinking would have us all cooking with sharpened sticks over an open fire!”

While many of the techniques and ingredients in modernist cuisine seem too far fetched for the home kitchen, inevitably some of the more useful stuff (not to mention the fun stuff) will filter down to the mainstream. For example, Polyscience’s Smoking Gun (a hand held food smoker) has made the transition from the professional kitchen to home kitchen shops Agar, a favourite gelling agent among modernist chefs, is a pantry staple for home cooks who prepare gluten free foods for celiacs Evidently there is a healthy, if minuscule, market for this kind of deluxe information The first print run of 6,000 copies of Modernist Cuisine sold out before the book was

The Ask

Kyle Gignac | Terrain Regional Kitchen | 250.597.0050

The ver y f irs t t hing t hat comes to mind is breakfas t I love breakfas t fr ied eggs, some sor t of por k product, home fries, toast, the whole shooting match But then I think about traditional American style BBQ; there is nothing like a once gnarly piece of meat made tender through the alchemy of a few hours in the smoker Of course if it was a Lost style island I could hunt wild boar, and smoke them myself

Jena Stewar t | Devour | 250.590.3231

I guess the biggest loss (unless Choux Choux Charcuterie is on the same island) would be my love for lunch Stinky cheeses, salumi, olives, preser ves, a ripe avocado and some smoked, chilled black cod All ver y rich but I am on the island at the end of my life!!

Zoe O’Doher ty | La Piola | 250.388.4517

Tough question but I would have to say grilled cheese and bacon with a crisp apple and side of bread and butter pickles It's cer tainly not the most elegant of meals, but I think I'd be pretty depressed if I were stranded on a deser ted island, and a well made grilled cheese is always good for the spirit

Peter De Bruyn | Strathcona Hotel | 250 383 7137

I would miss a nice fresh baguette, salami and Comox Valley brie cheese

Lisa Ahier | Sobo | 250.725.2341

If I were stranded on a deser ted island I would miss any meal that I have with my kids which usually consists of some sor t of cheese dish Pizza has always been a passion for me so maybe a wood fired, thin crust pizza with buf falo mozzarella, roasted garlic, fresh tomato and basil, topped with parmesan shavings and red chili flakes So simple yet so per fect Breakfast, lunch or dinner, its always a winner Ok maybe some Elini olive oil and cracked green olives from Basil Olive Oil company would dress it up as well

Anna Hunt | Paprika Bistro | 250 592 7424

I would have to say Sunday dinner Good old fashioned roast chicken and stuf fing I'm sure par t of the attachment is tradition and family So I say the combo of juicy roast chicken with stuf fing and gravy, and excellent company would be sorely missed

Edward Tuson | EdGe Restaurant | 7 78 425 3343

Without a doubt PIZZA! Pizza is my most favourite food in the world made at home in our wood burn ing oven with homemade salamis or beef shor t ribs or shrimp and sweet chili sauce Yum I'm gonna fire up the oven this weekend!

Fink | Chef Heidi Fink | askheidi@chefheidifink.com

My answer might come as a surprise to some, but I would miss burgers the most I love and adore a great burger the juicy grilled meat, the toasty bun, and all those great condiments: spicy mustard, pickles of any kind, crunchy lettuce, ripe tomato, t hick slices of sweet onion, cheese, avocado Doesn't it jus t sound delicious? I'm drooling just thinking about all the flavours, and really thankful that burger season is upon us!

| 250 655 9700

Most chefs or cooks would think being stranded on a deser ted island wouldn't be a bad thing at all! It'd cer tainly be a culinar y challenge But a meal I'm sure I couldn't figure out how to make on a deser ted island, would be a simple c heese and c harcuter ie plate There are jus t some t hings t hat I can't live without, and that's cheese and meat To me, nothing is more satisfying af ter a long day, than having some c heese (t he smellier, t he be tt er,) pepper y salami or c hor izo wit h a side of spicy mus t ard, pic kled vegetables and olives; and of course a freshly baked French baguette Simply paradise

shipped. The second printing of 25,000 should be ready for delivery by June and will also likely sell out Promising as those numbers sound, the extraordinary production values and the sheer volume of the volumes mean that the book is unlikely to be prof itable in any conventional sense of the word Fortunately, Nathan Myhrvold, the team leader behind this project and former Microsoft chief technology officer, can well afford to play both Medici patron and Michelangelo in producing this particular masterpiece In short, for food geeks like us, there are far worse ways to invest $529 Modernist Cuisine

by Nathan Myhrvold, Chris Young and Maxime Bilet, The Cooking Lab, 2011, $529.99

Heidi

Sheena Hogan| Haro’s Restaurant (The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa)

“If you were stranded on a deserted island, w h a t f a v o u r i t e m e a l w o u l d y o u m i s s t h e most and why”

Hanna Kofman and her husband Boris opened Santé Gluten Free Café in Quadra Street Village in March. This is a linger over your meal, Parisian style café Deep red walls warm the indoors, and you can sit close to the fireplace or rest on the chaise lounge Tables for the two legged and water for dogs are outdoors for sidewalk style dining. Floor to ceiling windows give an airy feeling, augmented by the open kitchen Fellow diners range from seniors to urban business types to young hipsters and families All are enjoying the mainly organic and local fare on this Monday noon hour with nary a free seat in the house.

Light meals around $10 are vegetarian and vegan pleasing: a selection of quiches, almond or walnut tahini pizzas with roasted vegetables, fresh daily soups like Tuscan white bean, and quinoa salads or sandwiches with choice of English muffin or bagel from gluten free supplier Glutino. I found the roasted red pepper, tomato and amaranth soup naturally sweet and blended to a creamy smoothness, perfect for a

chilly spring day The spinach and feta quiche presented well, tasted mellow and disappeared far too quickly. Meat eaters will need to be satisfied with a tuna melt or come on a day when chicken is featured Fernwood coffee, teas, smoothies and house made baked desserts can fill in the gaps outside meal times.

Ser vers are friendly and enthusiastic, smiling during the lunch rush Hanna, who herself has celiac disease, is a certified sommelier and the creative force behind the food Saturdays are the busiest (Monday Saturday, 9 a m to 6 p m ), so be prepared. Free of gluten does not mean only for the gluten free Gluten eaters will be pleasantly surprised at the quality, taste and texture of the baked goods Celiacs and the strictest of gluten free diners can relax and delight in the fact that all menu items are safe for them to experience. Future plans include tapas style evening offerings and wines specially selected by Hanna This is one to watch Kathryn Kusyszyn

It was 1983, and on a lark Yoka Van Den Berg began roasting coffee in the corner of a West Broadway Greek deli A growing demand for fresh whole bean coffee in Vancouver’s westside found Yoka opening her own small coffee roasting shop at 3143 W Broadway Within a year or so, she outgrew that location and made a lateral shift to 3171 W Broadway, where her eponymously named establishment remained until 2009.

A lease end on her place of business and the excessive cost of relocation in Vancouver spurred the jump to Victoria, and by mid year, Yoka and longtime life/business partner Tristan Trotter went to work successfully purchasing and rezon ing 1046 Mason St to expanded commercial activity At the same time, the project earned them a Hallmark Society Award of Merit for improvements to the 1913 two level brick build ing.

Yoka watches over a classic 1933 Royal coffee roaster, makes cappuccino and espresso for customers and weighs out whole bean coffee and chunks of dark Belgian chocolate for take away. Yet another passion is bee keeping, which she actively pursues at her and Tristan’s permanent Pender Island home A byproduct of that is the B.C. Interior honey that is on tap in store. Once that supply runs down, Yoka will be selling 100 percent island raised honey Yoka’s coffee lineup leans heavily on the classics like Sumatra, Kenya, Guatemala and venerable Ethiopian growing regions like Yirgacheffe. She also caters to those in the coffee community that prefer darker roasts not currently well ser ved in Victoria In fact, their Swiss water decafs are available in three roast profiles, and they have a custom Turkish blend with a secret spice mixture added to the freshly roasted beans Colin Newell

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 8:30 am 5:30 pm ,

(l) Hanna Kofman at her Sante Gluten-Fee Café. (r) Walnut almond tahini pizza with

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

Yoka Van Den Burg and Tristan Trotter

(l) Beatriz Carmona with Arepas (thick corn tor tilla made with chicken [or beef or pork]).

(r) A happy customer with Mazorca (grilled corn, green onion, cheese, chicken).

La Fogota

This culinar y nook between Douglas and Blanshard is more of a fecund launching pad than a venue Hernandez, Pig and now welcome La Fogata Latina And bienvenidos Victoria to authentic Colombian street food Beatriz Carmona has her hands deep in arepa dough when I amble into La Fogata Latina Arepas, a Colombian staple with deep roots for both indigenous and colonial peoples of the country, is a thick, lightly fried corn tortilla stuffed with meat, eggs and/or cheese This is commonly consumed any time of day Fogata is Spanish for bonfire, but the reference includes the warmth of conversa tion, food, friendship and coziness that a bonfire invites. La Fogata Latina, Daniel Caicedo and Beatriz Carmona’s unlicensed 12 seater restaurant with takeout is filled with their homeland, from the photos and the tasty imported coffee candies to the vibrant clay bead wall hangings and the La Nuestra sodas (a mild cream soda like cola) I opt for the chorizo arepa. At first taste it is good savory, filling and fresh but the best part comes later when I take half home The outside of the tortilla remains crusty and dry; meanwhile, the inner folds have sopped up the chorizo, sautéed onion, feta cheese and tomato that together yield a rich sauce The chorizo is from the Mexican House of Spice on Douglas Street. This tangy, lean, fermented sausage dominates the arepa. Delicious. Many of Victoria’s sloppy yet succulent eats do not travel well (unless you like eating a sandwich with a spoon); La Fogata Latina’s arepas are the Bounty like champion of the take out sandwich Beguiled by the history of the arepa, I want to know and eat more I spy “mazorca” on the menu, which means “cob.” What is it? Picture a small bowl filled with layers of hearty ingredients The bottom layer is glistening sweet buttered corn niblets Next, a layer of your choice of toppings (pulled chicken or pork, fried beef, cheese) I choose a pulled chicken and fried beef combination (in Colombia, it is de rigueur to opt for two meat or three meat combinations). Top that with feta cheese, then liberally douse with pineapple sauce (a mellow, delicate and thin puree), mayonnaise, pink sauce (the mayo/ketchup mix is a common Colombian condiment) and mustard And on top of that? A handful of crushed salted potato chips Be careful not to let your fascinated eyeballs fall out of your head as you watch it being assembled. Eating a mazorca is a yummy mess of crunch and sweet, hot and creamy, deep meaty flavours and salty

“roughing it.”

delight. I was mostly grateful that it was not a bigger bowl. I would have finished all of whatever came my way. Curious and moreish. What are the origins of this peculiar but tasty dish? “A man who lived on the north coast close to my home town of Sincelejo did not like corn on the cob,” says Beatriz “So he asked for [the niblets] to be cut off with a knife That is where the mazorca came from ”

And then there is the Colombian hot dog. Yes, I did eat like a little horse on this particular foray Giddy up The Colombian is a boiled hot dog in a regular hot dog bun topped with onion, commercial mustard, pink sauce, mayo, feta cheese, pineapple sauce and crumbled potato chips The toppings were what made this It must be a popular item with the late night crowd (the restaurant is open 11 p.m. to 4 a m Friday and Saturday nights) For me, it paled in comparison to the more complete handmade experience of the mazorca and the arepa Gillie Easdon

La Fogata Latina’s brief menu includes daily specials such as Cuban sandwiches, so expect some departure from Colombia. Open Monday Saturday 11 a.m 6 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 p.m. 4 a.m.

Now a trip to the Coombs Country Market can include an authentic Northern Italian Feast! When market owners Larry and Lene Geekie decided to convert the property’s old farmhouse into a restaurant, they had all the right ingredients with a beautiful country setting and fresh food at their doorstep, but still needed inspiration for their vision Enter Chef Fausto Bellicini originally from the town of Pisogne in Brescia, Italy Fausto brings not only the simple fresh dishes of his homeland, but also the name “Cuckoo” which comes from his family’s favourite eatery and gathering place This inspiration and influence were superbly evident throughout my recent Cuckoo experience

Upon entering the beautiful villa building, the first thing to catch my eye is a case full of antipasto plates, house made pasta samples and delightful pastries At the table the menu is equally enticing making it difficult to choose. My companions and I decide on the multi course family style offer called “Mangiacake” to experience the variety and joy of sharing flavours The Caesar salad is lightly enhanced with garlic and anchovies and the irresistible antipasto plate laden with roasted vegetables, olives, charcuterie and asiago cheese A big basket of fresh Coombs Country Market bread tops up the first course. Next the meatball dish is gentle in texture, slightly spicy and swimming in Fausto’s signature pomodoro tomato sauce Laced with pomodoro tomato, olive oil, and an assortment of fresh seafood, the Linguine Pescatora is surprising light but big enough in flavour to be still engrained in my memory a week later. While each dish so far was a highlight in its own right, a definite feature was the perfect thin crispness of Cuckoo’s wood oven pizza. We tucked into the Capricciosa with all it’s punches of flavour provided by olives, artichokes, prosciutto cotto, mushrooms and mozzerella Our dessert of tea and delectable tarts made in house by pastry chef, Denise Watson topped off the feast

As we finish our meal, Fausto invites us to view a fresh batch of pasta being made. Making our way to the open kitchen the restaurant is buzzing with activity and pleasant conversation With this joyful, casual atmosphere and the exceptional au thentic Italian cuisine, it seems the vision for Cuckoo has come to life for us all to enjoy! Karma Brophy

K a r m a B r o p h y

(l) Potato Pancake with spinach and feta with 2 salads (Nature’s gift, Skinny Tato salad)

(r) Polish Platter 2 styles cabbage rolls smothered in creamy home made tomato sauce ser ved with 3 pierogies and 1 polish style sausage

This quirky little Polish restaurant that seats but 14 people is on that Johnson Street block with the tattoo shops and comic book stores a restaurant space with a formerly high rate of turnover This one, though, seems to have staying power (peculiar name notwithstanding). The menu structure is simple: at lunch order either the Polish plat ter, a large potato pancake with filling, or a vegetarian patty The best way to keep the price down is to go the potato pancake route A large, golden, crispy potato pancake is treated like a crêpe and stuffed with a choice of four fillings: goulash, sauerkraut and mushroom, sauerkraut and sausage, or spinach and feta The goulash is a hearty, filling stew of eye of round with a peppery finish delicious The potato pancake plate is made even heartier, and healthier, with the choice of two of four salads “Nature’s Gift” is a sweet, summery combination of shred ded red cabbage, carrots, apples, sunflower seeds, almonds and raisins tossed with a raspberry vinaigrette. The “European potato salad,” a far cry from Canadian barbecue fare, is half potatoes, half carrots, green peas and apple, making it surprisingly light The potato pancake options range from $11 50 to $13 50 for a large meal For a little bit more money, the Polish platter is tasty too, with its garlicky sausage, assortment of delicate perogies and simple but wholesome cabbage rolls stuffed with rice, beef and pork My only small disappointment was that the mustard was of the vividly coloured, commercially prepared variety The platter comes with soup, creating, again, a very fill ing meal Add in the homey, solicitous service, and this is a comforting place to go for lunch.

Fol Epi |101 398 Harbour Rd. | 250 477 8882

With its sweeping curves and brick walls, stepping into Fol Epi is like stepping into a rustic French café nestled in a small but well lit wine cellar This teeny tiny bakery at tached to Café Fantastico manages to produce a few simple lunches as well as an array

feast of fields

2011

Van Westen Vineyards & Orchards, Naramata

Sunday August 21st

Krause Berry Farm, Langley Sunday September 11th

Marley Farm, Saanichton Sunday September 18th

www.feasto elds.com Tickets on sale June 1st

(l) Caramelized onion and chevre pizza, Ham and mozza pizza.

(r) Caramelized onion and bacon quiche, Sausage roll

of exquisite baked goods Fol Epi is increasingly famous for its thin crust pizzas The day I went, the choices were pepperoni and mushroom, leek and mushroom, ham and mozzarella, and chèvre and carmelized onions. Unable to eat four pizzas, I settled on the chèvre The base was as light as a fairy wing, the outer crust airy A sweep of house made tomato sauce was dotted with daubs of chèvre from Hilary’s Cheese and little mounds of carmelized onion This is a fair price for the quality, at $7 Also at $7, the classic quiche is so silky to be almost runny, with the texture of crème brulee. The cheese is an organic raw milk cheddar from Avalon and the bacon sourced from Slop ing Hill Farm in Qualicum Beach and prepared by Choux Choux I also experienced what seems to be an oxymoron: an elegant sausage roll What puts this at the head of its class is the flaky puff pastry around a sausage bursting with flavour These are $4 each, and you may need three for a full meal. However, one of them makes a great lunch for a small child Baguette sandwiches are available too, and these too have extra touches of elegance Who could say no to a dense, chewy baguette filled with al bacore tuna, locally caught and then cold smoked by Finest at Sea? It’s just as impos sible to say no to the array of treats. The hazelnut praline macaron exerted a siren call, while the blackcurrant macaron had an explosion of tartness between the chewy sweetness of the cookie layers The lemon custard tart needs to be lingered over while staring into a lover’s eyes This is an exquisite little place Seek it out

Brentwood Pub | 849 Verdier Ave. | 250 544 2079

This is no ordinary pub This is a pub with sex appeal, with soaring ceilings and huge French doors flung open to let in the summer breeze and enhance the ocean view A pub where you pay for the view with overall higher prices Still, there are items for $12 and $13 that you can enjoy while luxuriating in this beautiful space. The first of these is the seafood chowder Apparently, after corporate events, the kitchen gets flooded with emails asking for the recipe It has a sweetness that only freshness can bring The mound of seafood and potatoes in the 16 ounce serving includes the surprise of but ternut squash. The classic Caesar is carefully wrought with a lemony dressing, shaved Grana Padano and crispy, deep fried capers The lamb burger is fat and juicy, and sides are high quality, including the Caesar or battered sweet potato fries You can get half and half sides for no extra cost, a small thing I appreciate I didn’t try the pizzas at $15 $16, but I saw the size, and they can be shared An innovation at Brentwood Bay Lodge two years ago was a sushi bar, boasting a chef who worked for 10 years at the Four Sea sons in Tokyo He’s putting a twist on traditional sushi by incorporating local ingre dients If you’re out with the children, the staff are very accommodating, offering you

Dinner f rom t he g rill s hould be f illed w ith b ig b old f la v ours . Th is is a summ er y f usio n number starring a smoldering Italian style grilled radicchio salad, meaty lamb chops with an herby Argentinean chimichurri sauce and a berr y laden all-Canadian red, white & blue cheesecake tart for dessert. While the flavours are global, the dishes all filled with local treasures, from market herbs to Metchosin lamb, regional cheeses, nuts and vinegars and maybe your very own backyard berries.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Chimichurri Sauce

Chimichurri is an Argentinian her b sauce typically used as a marinade or for finishing g rilled meats. There are many different versions some add oregano and thyme, use both vinegar and lemon juice and even throw in an anchovy. This is a basic recipe, so feel free to spice it up with your own additions.

1/2 cup each chopped cilantro, mint and parsley

¼ cup red wine vinegar (Try Vinegar Works from Summerland)

3 tbsp water

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced

1 small jalapeno, seeded and chopped Pinches of sea salt

1/2 cup oil

8 to 12 lamb loin chops (Ask your butcher for local lamb)

In a food processor, whirl herbs with vinegar, water, garlic, jalapeño and a pinch of salt until mixed. Gradually whirl in oil.

Rub salt into loin chops, then grill over medium heat, 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium rare or until done as you like.

Place on plates and spoon chimichurri sauce overtop

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RING

Red, White & Blue Cheesecake Tart Warm Grilled Radicchio Salad

Warm Grilled Radicchio Salad

Grilling wedges of radicchio tempers its signature bitterness and adds a layer of smokiness. The creamy tang from Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue cheese is a good match and lusciously melts into the sweet honey and balsamic dressing

1/4 cup olive oil

2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tsp local honey

½ tsp Dijon mustard

1/4 cup olive oil

3 to 4 heads radicchio

½ cup toasted and skinned hazelnuts

1 green onion, thinly sliced

Large chunk of Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue cheese

Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste

For the dressing, whisk vinegar and honey with the mustard (Add more honey if needed Dressing should be on the sweet side ) Gradually whisk in oil Taste and season with salt and pepper Slice radicchio lengthwise into quarters, then lightly brush with a little dressing Grill over medium high heat until marks form and quarters are lightly charred, but still crunchy, about 2 to 3 minutes per side Place on a large platter and crumble cheese overtop Drizzle with remaining dressing and toss to mix. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and green onion.

Red, White & Blue

Cheesecake Tart

That tart and tangy Salt Spring Island Lemon Goat Cheese cries out to be baked with. Its lemony flavour cuts through the usual cloying richness of cheesecake Plus this is a tart so less cheesy filling and more berry action makes it easier to eat a big piece at the end of the meal!

Pastry

11/4 cups all purpose flour

1/3 cup ground hazelnuts or almonds

½ cup icing sugar (confectioners’ sugar)

Pinch of salt

9 Tbsp butter (1 stick plus 1 Tbsp) cold butter, cubed 1 egg yolk

Filling

5 oz Salt Spring Island lemon goat cheese, at room temperature

8 oz block cream cheese, at room tem perature

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

Fresh ber ries, such as raspber ries and blueberries

1/4 cup seedless raspberry jam

For the pastry, in a food processor, whirl all but egg to form coarse crumbs Add egg and pulse just until dough starts to come together Dough will be too soft to roll, so gently press into 9 inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom. Work with a light hand so dough keeps its crumbly texture. Be sure to evenly cover the bottom and press up the sides Pierce dough with a fork in several places Freeze for 30 min Bake in preheated 375F oven until light golden, about 15 to 20 minutes If crust has puffed, press down gently using the back of a spoon

Meanwhile, finely chop lemon from top of goat cheese and place in a large bowl. Add both cheeses and beat until mixed Gradually beat in sugar, then egg and vanilla

Scrape mixture into crust and reduce oven to 350F Bake until centre is almost set when pan is jiggled, about 20 minutes Cool on a wire rack, then refrigerate until ready to serve.

Just before serving (up to 3 hours is OK) heat jam so it’s liquid. Place berries in a bowl and gently coat with jam so they glisten Spoon over tart

WINE PAIRING

We could go white or red with the lamb chops with chimichurri An Alsatian style BC Pinot Gris should work well crisp stone fruit yet creamy in the mouth Or go for an Argentinian Malbec with smoky dark fruit and wafts of wild blueberries and earth

Award winning wine selection paired with globally inspired menu fferings from Canada’s only Iron hef Champion, Rob Feenie

t h e f a r m s t h a t f e e d u s

While it seems as if a new celebrity chef is born every minute, farmers those dedicated, fervent, innovative individuals—remain largely under valued.

Text by REBECC A BAUGNIET Photography by REBECC A WELLMAN

Anyone who has visited Ontario in the past few years has probably come across the bright yellow signs in their travels The public awareness campaign started by Ontario Grains and Oilseeds in 2005 offers urbanites a reminder that “Farmers Feed Cities ” Here on Vancouver Island, we have the more subtle “Fresh from the Island” signs and stickers that help us choose local products Yet despite growing enthusiasm for farmers’ markets, how much does the average consumer really know about where their food comes from? Yes, we want to know if it is organic, or humanely raised, if our milk comes from healthy cows, and our eggs from happy hens But do we truly appreciate the effort and challenges involved in producing quality food? How are the farmers doing?

With these questions in mind, I set off to visit four ver y different farms in southern Vancouver Island hoping to get a little glimpse of what it’s like to be farming in 2011. I came away from each farm not only with delicious freshly picked samples but with a renewed sense of admiration for those who work the fields. While it seems as if a new celebrity chef is born ever y minute, farmers those dedicated, fer vent, innovative individuals remain largely under valued. The farmers involved in small scale agriculture are always thinking about our food security and working to fortify it. It’s a beautiful thing to witness each of them doing this work in their own way.

SunTrio Farm

Three brothers farming together in Saanichton “I’m a fan of lemon,” says Frank O’Brien, pausing to squeeze half of one into the bin where the sunflower sprouts are being rinsed and giving them a little stir before continuing the tour through the greenhouses. The youngest of the three O’Brien brothers who run SunTrio, Frank’s domains are the sprouts, the microgreens and the

strawberries He is also the one you are most likely to meet at the market, encouraging you to try a cucumber slice or guess what kind of sprouts he’s offering a taste of today Dennis takes care of the hot crops tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant and peppers while Michael takes care of the accounts. The Trio have been farming the four and a half acres in Saanichton since 2008, with plans to plant apple trees around the perimeter of their property this summer

The farm is in transition to certified organic (IOPA) Frank, who gained experience growing sprouts in Australia, is a fer vent believer in the healing power of plants and as such views farmers as the new doctors “People are waking up from the pharmaceutical age,” he tells me. “It’s no longer about ‘how long will this keep in my fridge?’ It’s fresh, it’s alive eat it now.” With a focus on the good energy fresh, organic food can provide,

TERRA NOSSA FARM: Evenly and Jesse Pereira with their Iza Brown Gunner (aka Sex a link) chickens

Umi Nami Farm

Organic Japanese produce thrives in Metchosin. Yoshiko Unno and Tsutomu Suganami came to Canada more than 15 years ago They had been farming in Japan for 10 years prior to that and came to Canada in search of a larger piece of land Shortly after setting up their 10 acre farm in Metchosin, Mary Alice Johnson of ALM Organic Farm in Sooke invited them to sell their produce at the Moss Street Market The couple created a name for their farm out of their two surnames that, when translated, roughly means “sea wave” and developed their farm around what they knew best Asian vegetables Yoshiko Unno tells me that the climate is slightly cooler here than where they had farmed in Japan, but there are fewer insects here.

When I arrive, Yoshiko is tilling the soil in one of the greenhouses As I park, I see her stop the machine and come out to greet me The first greenhouse she shows me has tidy paths between the vegetable beds mulched with dried corn stalks to reduce weeds. Two apprentices are crouched down on either side of one of the rows, methodically planting, each using a cornstalk to measure the distance between each seed Outside, Yoshiko tells me these are new apprentices from her husband’s home village in Japan It was devastated by the tsunami in March, and they have come “to forget” for a while.

Now with more than 20 greenhouses, Umi Nami grows a wide variety of B.C. certified organic vegetables, from daikon, carrots and Japanese turnips to greens that have seen a noticeable rise in popularity such as mizuna, mustard greens and bok choy As Yoshiko gives me a tour of her beautifully maintained property, I spot the kamatsuna plant and the shiso leaves I’ve tasted prepared by local chefs. But Yoshiko is eager to have me try something new The plant, known as “huki” or “fuki” (its Latin name is Petasites japonicas; in English it is called Japanese butterbur or sweet coltsfoot), grows abundantly in one of the greenhouses Simply prepared by removing the strings from the stalk, slicing it into two inch long pieces, and soaking it in cold water for five minutes, the refreshing, crunchy pieces have a more pronounced flavour than other greens slightly bitter, yet fragrant The stalks can be used fresh in salads, in stir fries, or pickled for use in winter soups

Yoshiko’s partner passed away earlier this year, but she continues to farm with the help of her apprentices and her one employee, Madoka Yasumura, who represents the farm at the Moss Street Market In addition to selling produce at the market, Umi Nami Farm regularly supplies Daidoco Japanese Restaurant in Victoria and offers a year round produce box program

Terra Nossa Farm

Organic livestock and poultry in the Cowichan Valley

I think Evelyn Pereira must be the most cheerful farmer I have ever met Joking that the mosquitoes drove her and her husband, Jesse, out of Prince George, she explains that it is their background in railway and construction that has allowed them to live out their dream of farming fulltime This is actually their retirement, though they have never worked harder

“It’s all about the rotation,” she explains to me as we walk through the fields Just as with crops, the sheep and pigs travel through pastures in a choreographed dance with nature This ensures the health of the land and the animals “The chickens follow the sheep After the pigs, alfalfa ”

The couple acquired the 26 acre farm five years ago and have accomplished an incredible amount with the land in a short time. Beyond the sheep, pigs and chickens (both brooders and layers), Evelyn shows me their three acres of blackberries as well as the field that yielded 800 pounds of sweet potatoes last harvest Then, with a special twinkle in her eye, she sweeps her arm to show off the new orchard 300 hazelnut and 100 oak saplings, all inoculated with Perigord black truffle spores. DNA samples have been submitted to the B.C. Truffle Association, and Evelyn laughs, saying, “If this works out, I’ll be putting up bleachers and charging admission!” If it doesn’t, they’ll just tr y something else Asked what she perceives as the main

SunTrio sells greenhouse grown sprouts, greens, tomatoes and cucumbers year round in their farm store, as well as at the Moss Street Market, the James Bay Market and the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society’s Farmers’ Market in Market Square

challenges to farming in this day and age, Evelyn admits that there are some govern ment regulations that are impediments to small scale agriculture, citing the quota on her flock of laying chickens as an example Though she would like to have a larger flock to meet the demand for their organic products, the marketing board controls how many they can have

The Pereiras, who named their farm “our land” in Portuguese, have an ardent appreciation for good food, and the scope of their products speak to this Showing me the goji berry plants, she tells me how this came about at breakfast one morning as Jesse was putting the new super food on his cereal “Why aren’t we growing these?” he asked. A little Googling later, and the seeds were obtained and planted.

Terra Nossa sells their products at their farm store, open daily, as well as at the Moss Street Market and the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society’s Farmer’s Market in Market Square

Vantreight Farms

Saanich Peninsula’s biggest farm transitions to organics

As Ryan Vantreight takes me on a tour, a few Canada geese can be seen in one field, lunching on the tops of his oats In another field, workers in lab whites are collecting samples of soil in search of the golden nematode. (This sounds to me like the first in a cinematic adventure trilogy, but Ryan explains that the farm lies within the quarantine area for this tiny species responsible for producing cysts on potato roots ) Last year there was no trace of the destructive creature found in these fields If the soil passes the test again this year, the farm will be allowed to grow the nightshades potatoes, tomatoes, etc.

Like everything in farming it seems, there are some massive hurdles involved In the case of the nematode quarantine, this includes thorough cleaning of all farm equipment as it arrives on the farm to eliminate the chance of any contamination But Ryan has grown accustomed to obstacles. Currently Vantreight Farms, with its 165,000 square feet of greenhouses and more than 750 acres of production land, is at the centre of a controversy regarding the rezoning and development of a non arable (unsuitable for farming) section of their property now known as the “Hill Project ” Critics maintain that the proposed residential development will alter the rural character of the area The fifth generation farmer/general manager counters that the development is designed to allow them to continue farming “People want to protect farm land so do we ” The main goal, he adds, is to continue food production “When it comes to food security, he says, there are two main components. Land and storage space for the produce. We have both.” By October of this year, around 80 acres will be certified organic, including the greenhouses and adjacent fields where all their herbs, greens, beets and berries are grown

Vantreight produce is available weekly in a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) box. They also supply The Marina Restaurant in Oak Bay.

If you would like to visit these or other local farms, don’t miss the 2011 Tour of Farms, Sunday July 24, from 10 a m 4 p m , sponsored by the Southern Vancouver Island Direct Farm Marketing Association (www.islandfarmfresh.com). The North Saanich Flavour Trail is another occasion to celebrate far ming in Nor th Saanich, August 20 and 21 (www northsaanich ca) A great resource for information on Vancouver Island farms is the Island Farm Fresh website (www islandfarmfresh com), as well as their printed guide For more on Cowichan Valley far ms, visit the Cowichan Agriculture Society website (www.cowichanfarmers.org).

SunTrio Farm 8214 East Saanich Rd Saanichton, B.C. 250 652 1003 www suntriofarm com Umi Nami Farm 961 Matheson Lake Park Rd. Metchosin, B C 250 391 0763

Want to impress your Maharaja tonight?

Purchase any four of Vij’s famous Indian dishes and receive

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Direct from Vij’s award winning Indian restaurant in Vancouver. Choose from twelve exotic flavours. Regular $11.99 to $13.99 each. Free item is of lesser or equal value. No limits. Valid until August 31st, 2011.

Aubergine

Specialty Foods

1308 Gladstone Avenue Victoria, British Columbia 250.590.1031

Terra Nossa Family Farm 765 Kilmalu Rd Mill Bay, B.C. 250 7423 7484 www terranossa ca

Vantreight Farms 8277 Central Saanich Rd. Saanichton, B C 250 652 7777 www daffodil com

by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by C AROLI NE WEST

Text and food styling

Who wants to slave over a hot stove when the temperatures soar? Summer entertaining should be easy and breezy, and spicy fish tacos with coleslaw and berry sorbet make for a delicious no fuss menu.

Ever since a friend made flour tortillas for me, I’ve sworn off the store bought variety Call me a tortilla snob, but there is simply no comparison to tortillas made from scratch It takes but a few min utes to work the flour and water into a malleable dough, and a rolling pin, not a tortilla press, easily nudges the soft dough into paper thin tortillas The dough is then placed onto a hot, dry pan to puff up and blister. Before you know it, you’ll be stacking a pile of impressive looking tortillas and scheming up all sorts of creative fillings to wrap Tortillas freeze well and they’re great to bring along on your favourite summer escapade

Spicy fish tacos paired with coleslaw and a slice of sweet mango are always a crowd pleaser Dusting fish with a heady spice mixture of smoked paprika, cumin and chili adds just the right amount of kick without overpowering the fish. You can use any firm fleshed fish for your tacos, but I especially like them with fresh cod, halibut or snapper For moist, succulent fish, remove it from its heat source before it’s completely cooked and allow the residual heat to work its magic. I squeeze a bit of fresh orange and lime juice over the fish just before serving

Spicy

My coleslaw recipe is made with a homemade jalapeño and lime mayonnaise The alchemy of oil, farm fresh egg yolks and vinegar make for a superior mayonnaise without preservatives. Once you try it, you’ll think twice before tossing the ubiquitous mayo jar into your grocery cart My shortcut version uses a blender, instead of a whisk, to mix the emulsion into a luscious, creamy sauce I consider mayonnaise a blank canvas for countless flavourings: chipotle peppers, sun dried toma toes, chutney, pesto, horseradish, lemon, wasabi, curr y and garlic are just a few options that transform a ho hum condiment into a brilliant sauce.

I know summer has arrived when I make the year’s first berry sorbet Unlike sherbet or ice cream, sorbet contains no eggs or cream to mellow its flavours Sorbets pack an intense blast of fruit with each frosty spoonful With only two ingredients, pureed fruit and sugar, sorbets are a breeze to prepare with an ice cream maker Unlike some neglected kitchen gadgets gathering dust in my cupboards, my ice cream maker gets more of a workout with each passing year. You can get über creative with an ice cream maker think cucumber sorbets (delicious in gazpacho), chai tea sorbets, fresh ginger with crème fraîche, wine sorbets and such. When it comes to icy desserts, there are no rules, so let your imagination run wild With most models under $100, they’re excellent value, especially for those who enjoy playing around with flavour combinations If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can prepare a refreshing granita instead; simply pour sweetened fruit puree into a shallow container and place in the freezer until it firms Agitate the puree occasionally with a fork to produce the granita’s icy granular texture. An ice cream maker produces a finer texture, but both versions are berry delicious

Enjoy the dog days of summer this year by keeping it simple and cool in the kitchen Fish tacos with make ahead coleslaw ensure easy entertaining, and a refreshing berry sorbet highlights the very best of summer Toss a few just picked berries in your sorbet just before ser ving because who doesn’t like berries with their berries?

WINE PAIRING

For the spicy fish tacos with coleslaw I’d go with a citrus kissed, youthful and crisp low alcohol white, like a Vinho Verde from northern Portugal's Minho region. This fresh white often has a hint of spritz, and would pair well (plus refresh) with the heat of the tacos.

“

fish tacos paired with coleslaw and a slice of sweet mango are always a crowd pleaser”

Homemade tortillas make all the difference.

you've made your own, there's no going back!

Nothing says summer like a refreshing raspberry sorbet.

FLOUR TORTILLAS

This recipe was shared by my friend, local food writer Gail White Yields eight 9 inch tortillas

9 oz (255 grams) unbleached white flour, plus more for rolling

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp baking powder

2 oz (55 grams) lard or cold vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces 4 3/4 oz warm water

In a large bowl, stir together flour, salt and baking powder Cut in lard or shortening with a pastry blender or two knives until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Stir in warm water with a fork until a shaggy dough forms If the mixture is too dry, add additional water, one teaspoon at a time

Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and soft, about 3 to 4 minutes. The dough should be fairly soft and not too sticky. Cut the dough into eight equal pieces (each should be around 2 ounces) and form into balls. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 2 hours

Roll out each ball into a 9 inch diameter disk on a floured surface, using just enough flour to prevent sticking You want the tortillas fairly thin, but if you roll them too thin they will break easily after they are cooked.

Heat a large dry cast iron or non stick skillet over medium heat When it is hot, place one tortilla in the skillet until it bubbles and puffs up with brown spots on the bottom, about 45 to 60 seconds Pierce any large bubbles that form Flip the tortilla and cook it another 45 to 60 seconds. If it browns too fast, lower your heat. Move to a clean tea towel and proceed as above Stack the tortillas and cover with a tea towel so they don’t get too dry

JALAPEÑO COLESLAW

COLESLAW

1 small head of cabbage, finely shredded

1 bunch of green onions, finely chopped 1/2 bunch of fresh cilantro, roughly chopped 3/4 cup of jalapeño lime mayonniase (recipe follows)

Fresh lime juice to taste

Salt to taste

In a large bowl, combine shredded cabbage with onions and cilantro. Add the jalapeño lime mayonnaise (recipe follows) Taste the coleslaw, adding more lime juice and salt, if required

Transfer any leftover coleslaw to a storage container, cover and refrigerate for up to 7 days.

JALAPENO LIME MAYONNAISE

Makes 2 1/2 cups mayonnaise.

1 whole fresh organic egg plus 2 organic egg yolks

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

6 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice (approximately 2 1/2 limes)

1 2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped (add more if you prefer additional heat)

2 cups grapeseed or corn oil

1/2 bunch fresh cilantro

2 tsp salt

Combine the whole egg, egg yolks, mustard, lime juice and jalapeño peppers in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade Process for one minute

With the motor still running, add the oil in a slow steady stream until it is completely incorporated Add the fresh cilantro and salt Check the seasoning, adding more jalapeño peppers, lime and salt as necessary. The mayonnaise should be quite piquant.

Transfer any leftover mayonnaise to a storage container, cover and refrigerate for up to 7 days.

If you have a compromised immune system and are concerned with the risks asso ciated with the consumption of raw eggs, a safer alternative is to use pasteurized eggs

SPICY FISH TACOS

Makes 6 tacos

6 flour tortillas

6 fillets of fresh red snapper, halibut or cod, approximately 4 oz (113 grams) each

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

SPICE MIX

2 Tbsp each: chili powder, ground coriander, ground cumin and smoked paprika

1 Tbsp each: garlic powder, sugar, salt and curry powder

1 1/2 tsp cayenne

TACO FILLING

1 1/2 cups jalapeño lime coleslaw

1 mango, peeled and sliced lengthwise

1 avocado, peeled and sliced lengthwise

Fresh orange and lime juice to squeeze over the cooked fish

Fresh cilantro for garnishing

Combine the spices in a small bowl and set aside until ready to use Run your fingers along the fish to check for bones. Remove any bones with a pair of tweezers. Remove the skin from the fish with a sharp knife.

Place a fillet on a cutting board and lightly sprinkle each side with the spice mixture Too much spice will spoil your fish, so don’t be tempted to saturate the fish with spices Repeat with remaining fillets (Store the remaining spice mix in an airtight container, away from direct sunflight.)

Heat the oil in a non stick pan until hot and shimmering, but not smoking Place the seasoned fish onto the hot pan and cook approximately 2 to 3 minutes on each side Remove the fish from the pan before it is completly cooked Loosely tent the fish with foil and allow the residual heat to finish the cooking.

Place a tortilla on your work surface; add a bit of coleslaw, sliced mango, avocado and the warm fish Squeeze a bit of orange and lime juice on the fish, if desired Garnish with a few sprigs of fresh cilantro and fold the tortilla around the fish Ser ve immediately

BERRY SORBET

Makes six servings

4 cups of raspberries 1 cup water

1 cup sugar

Puree the raspberries in a food processor. Strain the raspberry pulp through a fine sieve set over a deep bowl. Using a spatula, gently press down on the pulp, extracting as much liquid as possible; discard the seeds Refrigerate until chilled

In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the water and sugar Bring to a boil and cook until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is clear, about 1 minute Set aside and cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until chilled. Add 3/4 cup of syrup to the raspberry pulp and stir to combine Taste the mixture; it should be sweet (the cold will mute the sweetness) If your berries are tart, add additional sugar water

Pour the sweetened, chilled mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions

If you do not have an ice cream maker, make a granita by pouring the fruit puree into a shallow container and place in the freezer until it firms, about 30 minutes, depend ing on the size of the container. Agitate the puree occasionally with a fork until there is no liquid left and you have a granular icy texture.

Transfer the sorbet or granita to a freezer safe container

The Allure of Aromatics

Sensuous summer is the season to discover these intensely fragrant wines.

are ideal partners and their bold personalities are able to stand up to the seasonings found in such fare. (Beware of spicy hot dishes, though, and choose aromatics with 12 5 percent alcohol or less Otherwise, your mouth will be on fire ) Aromatics are also the de facto choice with festive dinners like Thanksgiving and Christmas, where numer ous side dishes vie for attention

Though we claim not to pick favourites, we do have a very soft spot for Riesling This noble and aromatic grape comes in a wide range of styles, from completely bone dry to fully sweet dessert wines. Regardless of its sweetness level or its source, Riesling always has a backbone of vibrant acidity and that is what is so magical about it

From Germany, the wines are delicate and typically off dr y with flavours of lime sorbet and slate that often develop kerosene aromas with age Pairing them with sausages and sauerkraut is a classic in Germany, but here in B C , German Riesling is a natural with sushi It also works well with spicy Indian food, and being lower in alcohol, it’s ideal for summer sipping

coming out of the Okanagan Wild Goose and Dirty Laundr y capture its unique character. As distinct as Gewürz is, it can pair with a wide range of similarly distinct dishes from strong, washed rind cheeses like Munster to goose pȃté or Chinese style duck salad

Of all the aromatic grapes, Muscat comes in the largest array of styles But whether it is dr y, off dr y, sweet, fortified, still or sparkling, its grapey, musky floral aromas always come through Surprisingly, this grape has converted pronounced “red wine drinkers only.” When dry, it reaches its finest expression in Alsace and is a great match with a light starter of asparagus salad From the southern Rhône region of Beaume de Venise comes a sweet fortified Muscat Chill and serve as an aperitif with roasted nuts when you want to impress your guests. Muscat’s most charming guise is Moscato d’Asti, a delec table frothy wine from Italy’s Piedmont region We are constantly advocating this sweet, low alcohol nectar for breakfast, but it is equally delicious with desserts of fruit salad and mousses

Ah, the sweet scent of summer Besides the intoxicating smell of meat grilling on the barbecue, we revel in aromas of seasonal fruit and flowers Lilacs, freesias, lavender and roses are blooming in the garden while fragrant peaches, apricots and melons tempt us from market stalls Our senses heightened by all the stimulation, we are inspired to pour a glass of wine with an equally bold and beauti ful bouquet It is the season to discover aromatic wines Intense and pungent with persistent aromas and flavours, aromatic wines provoke an immediate reaction You either love them or hate them. Unlike the more polite and quiet aromas of the neutral grapes such as Pinot Grigio, aromatic wines aren’t shy about making a statement But we find them tremendously alluring with their scented floral and ripe orchard fruit. Don’t be afraid of that sweet fruity smell; it doesn’t mean the wine will actually be sweet on the palate While some aromatic wines are made off dry, most are fully dry With such intensity of character, when and with what do you drink these pungent elixirs? Besides being delicious on their own anytime, they can be very food friendly They are particularly useful for matching with tricky and equally intense ingredients Think of the assertive flavours found in Asian cuisine, especially Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Thai Our aromatic friends

Beyond Germany, Rieslings from the French region of Alsace are just as bold and fiercely structured, but much fuller and richer than their German counterparts. Austrian Rieslings are more off the beaten track. The wines are bone dry, focused and pure, with mineral notes dominat ing The price tag might be a little higher, but they are worth ever y penny Australia also tends to make dr y Rieslings. The best hail from the cooler valleys of Clare and Eden Clare’s wines can be austere and tight in their youth, but the severe lime, grapefruit and steely notes transform into a beautiful complex bouquet with age Grosset is a long time favourite and can be found in private wine stores. Rieslings from the neighbouring Eden Valley are more exuberant and juicy with charming flavours of peach jumping out of the glass If you find a bottle of Pewsey Vale, grab it! It’s a standout from the region. Our perfect pairing for the summer is Pewsey Vale’s Eden Valley Riesling with a bowl of spicy prawns drizzled in a healthy squeeze of lime If you want to go completely local, B C offers plenty of good dry and off dry Rieslings. The former especially excites us, particularly those from Tantalus and CedarCreek

Although it is an aromatic, Gewürztraminer is a completely different beast than Riesling Full bodied, viscous and sometimes slightly oily, it has much lower acidity and higher alcohol. Gewürztraminer is exotic and exuberant with lychee, roses and sweet spices among its classic descriptors It certainly takes a skilled winemaker to coax elegance and balance out of this grape Producing the world’s best examples, the region of Alsace has proven it is possible Weinbach, Ostertag and Trimbach boast great versions VinOptima from Gisborne in New Zealand comes close Here in B C , our local winemakers have embraced this grape and we see plenty of Gewürztraminer

Viognier is all lovely peaches and apricots More com plex examples hint at honeysuckle, ginger or Mediter ranean herbs. The tiny Rhône Valley appellation of Condrieu is Viognier’s birthplace and where it reaches its apogee Both oaked and un oaked versions exist We always opt for the more traditional elegant style, especially from the likes of Saint Cosme Those from the South of France are more affordable if less complex versions This luscious blonde has also been embraced in the warmer climes of California, Australia and Chile Yalumba is definitely a leader in Australia, and the current vintage of their Eden Valley bottling is ultra enchanting. Viognier can be trickier to pair with food, but it will stand up well to a mild Thai yellow curr y with chicken Another great choice is richer shellfish like crab or lobster with a hint of spice And you can never go wrong pairing it with crab cakes.

Albariño is northwest Iberia’s gem It is the main player in Spain’s Rías Baixas region and shows up as Alvarinho in the better wines of the Portuguese region of Vinho Verde to the south. What does it tastes like? Imagine if Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc had a baby Ripe peach notes are off set by vibrant and refreshing acidity Albariño is perfect with oily fish and dishes strongly flavoured with garlic or saffron. Try cracking a bottle with fish and chips or serve with homemade paella.

Think Argentinean wine is just full bodied reds made from Malbec? Her white counterpart, Torrontés, is a com plete departure and gives Argentineans and us tourists something refreshing to drink when the Mendoza sun is blazing The best combine traits of Muscat and Albariño Predominantly floral and often reminiscent of orange blossom, it also exhibits lime zest, good freshness and sometimes even a saline quality. Torrontés works a treat

wine + terroir by Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

A classic Gewürztraminer from Alsace, France

G a r y H y n e s

Wine Notes

WHITE

2009 Wolf Blass, ‘ Yellow Label’ Riesling, Sout h Aus tralia, Aus tralia, $16 19 (SKU #128660)

Intense aromas of lime marmalade Bone dr y and juicy wit h oodles of citrus and green apple flavours Per fect for those who are skeptical t hat Riesling can be dr y A natural wit h sushi

2010 Sur de Los Andes, Torrontés, Argentina $17 20*

An exotic choice when you are seeking some sunshine on a rainy day. Clean and vibrant with pun gent flavours of lime, orange blossom and white flowers Argentineans would drink it with their asado (barbecue) on a hot day Why not ser ve it at your next barbecue in their honour?

2009 Pfaf fenheim, Gewürztraminer, Alsace AOC, France $20 23 (SKU #612119)

A classic good value Gewürz from Alsace Fresh notes of roses and exotic fruit with a rich and unc tuous palate Hello Munster cheese!

2010 CedarCreek Estate Winer y, Riesling, VQA Okanagan Valley, BC $20 23*

Concentrated, juicy and lip smacking lime and lemon zest flavours dazzle your palate and leave you begging for another sip A great example of the heights Riesling can achieve in our own back yard Bravo!

2010 Young & Wyse, ‘Amber’, VQA Okanagan Valley, BC $22 25*

A blend of Viognier, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer Vibrant juicy flavours of lime and white grape fruit with a hint of sage A great wine to introduce to your out of town guests this summer Would be delicious wit h grapefruit marinated salmon

2010 Terras Gaudas, ‘Abadía de San Campio’, Riax Baixas DO Spain $31 35* Meet Albariño Delectable nectarine flavours with a slightly salty tang Steely with a long, persistent finish An elegant and sophisticated choice to pair wit h lemon chicken or Japanese food

2009 Château de Saint Cosme, Condrieu AOC, France $87 95*

If you want to tr y Viogneir at its finest, t his is wor t h the splurge Pure peach nectar, with lif ted fresh herbs and anise notes Concentrated and full bodied yet graceful and light on its feet Crab for din ner?

RED

2007 Marotti Campi, ‘Orgiolo,’ Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Superiore DOC, Italy $32 36* Imagine, if you can, a blend of Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir. Sounds bizarre but it works. Dried rose petals, red cherr y and spice Bring along to your summer picnic and ser ve slightly chilled

DESSERT

2007 Paul Jaboule t Aîné, ‘Le Chant des Gr iolles’ Muscat Beaumes de Venise AOC, France$25 28 (375 mL) (SKU #352088)

Seductive grapey and orange blossom notes that linger on t he palate Of fer somet hing dif ferent to your guests next time you enter tain and ser ve as an aperitif with roasted nuts They’ll be charmed Also a natural with fruit desser t

with white fish with assertive Thai seasonings

The aromatic category is dominated by whites, but a few aromatic reds do exist Italy is the richest source with varieties like Brachetto and Ruchè from the region of Pied mont and Lacrima di Morra in Marche These gems are definitely off the beaten track but worth seeking out You’ll need to scour the shelves of private wine stores

Let the summer of discovery begin! Beyond those we’ve mentioned, try Ehrenfelser from B.C., Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Pinot Gris from Alsace. The latter two grapes are less overt when grown elsewhere, so we leave it to you to decide whether they’re aromatic And when the cold rainy weather returns, just remember that you can put your nose in a glass of aromatic wine for the sweet smell of summer year round.

Join us on the slopes of Mount Prevost overlooking spectacular views of the Cowichan Valley for a taste of Averill Creek Wines.

Located 6 minutes o Island Highway at 6552 North Road, Duncan Open 11am to 5pm daily www.averillcreek.ca

Which wine goes best with a Backyard Burger Party?

$ - QUENCH A CROWD

An accom plished sommelier wit h 25 years of exper ience, Rob er t S t elmac huk has contr ibut ed to and created wine programs at some of t he countr y ’ s most notewor t hy restaurants, including Le Crocodile and Market by Jean Georges at t he Shangri La Hotel Stelmachuk is a graduate of t he Interna tional Sommelier Guild (ISG), t he Wine and Spirit Education Trust of London (WSET) and t he Grand Pr ix du Sopexa He is also a for mer director of W ine Education f or t he Pacif ic Ins titut e of Culinar y Ar ts in Vancouver

(MH)

Marlisa Hollands has been in t he food and beverage industr y for 15 years, endearing herself to many Victorians t hrough her smar t and tight beverage program at Paprika Bistro She is now a sommelier at Stage Wine Bar, continuing to utilize her passion for introducing overlooked wines wit h excellent value to customers and friends

RS Think pink! Rosés are so versatile with food I usually recommend a dry rosé, but with this menu, it’s OK if the wine is slightly off dry You can get affordable versions from around the globe: B C , Spain, Portugal, France or California. Its fresh, lively, red berry fruit aspect will prove to be a great partner to everything on the table. Look for one made from a varietal that is fruit for ward for a safe bet. Pinot Noir, Grenache, Merlot or Syrah all work

MH My pick are the delicious fruity wines of Languedoc Roussillon in Southern France. These value wines are typically blends from Syrah and Carignan coming from such areas as Minervois and Corbières. Beef doesn’t always need big, huge wines A blended wine works best here.

$$$ - BREAK THE BANK

RS Wines of the Southern Rhône Valley in France would be a sure thing Here, the wines are a dominant blend of Syrah and Grenache Syrah does wonders to elevate the grilled component, and the generous, savour y, fruit compote body of Grenache satisfies a wide range of food The wines are not overly tannic or too aggressive. Look for a Gigondas, Vacqueyras or Chateauneuf du Pape You can also find wines crafted in this style from Washington with great success.

Stephen and his wife Tara moved to Cedar in 2009 to take over t he family restaurant, The Mahle House, from Tara’s uncle Delber t and her mot her Maureen Wilson has worked in several res taurants in Victoria over t he pas t 20 years including Camille’s, Sooke Harbour House, Il Terrazzo and Cassis Bistro He also operated a wine sales and consulting company for a few years focusing mos tl y on small Okanag an winer ies He com pl e t ed his sommelier cer tification in 2001

SW On a hot summer day, quench the crowd with a just off dry rosé (moderate alcohol at the most) from B C The rosé is a versatile wine and a touch of sweetness combined with lower alcohol will be a big benefit on a hot day On a cooler day or later in the evening, look for a juicy and jammy lower priced Zinfandel from California Fatty burger meat and grill flavour really go well with juicy and fruity wines.

MH Look for a modern blended wine from Spain that may include varieties like Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache or Merlot. This ripe style is coming from the Navarra, Castilla La Mancha and Ribera del Duero regions. Perfect in its flexibility for all of the flavours, acidity and sweetness of everything on the picnic buffet table.

SW On a hot day, you really want to think about how temperature affects your wine. Break the bank with a bottle of rosé champagne It’s fun, glamorous and goes with everything. After a little bubble, tuck into a big and juicy, full and fruity premium Zinfandel from California

Rober t Stelmac huk (RS)

Sommelier, Chambar Restaurant

what to drink with that by Treve Ring

O U R E X P E R T S

Stephen Wilson (SW)

Owner & Sommelier, Mahle House

We ask local wine experts what wines they would pair with a casual summer dinner of hamburgers, potato salad,coleslaw and watermelon Our experts up the challenge and chose alternsative wines: one both budget friendly, the other premium.

Marlisa Hollands

Sommelier, Stage Wine Bar

Bonus Round: Our wine experts take on a more difficult challenge and match wines to go with a Salad of Warmed Grilled Octopus, Tomato, Sweet Onion & Feta Cheese Go to www EATMagazine ca and see their recommendations and find the recipe

Summer is one of the best seasons to get out of the city and explore And what better way than to take one of the meandering trails that lead to wineries, cideries and the new crop of spirit producers But do stop along the way to take in the many sights or pull over for an alfresco picnic pack a picnic or purchase foods along the way If your starting point is Victoria, head out of the city on the Pat Bay Highway and onto the Saanich Peninsula In this bucolic area dotted with farms and ocean inlets you’ll find wineries, cideriers and an award winning spirits producer Victoria Spirits is known for producing Canada’s first premium gin, called, appropriately enough, Victoria Gin. Close by you will also find Dragonfly Hill Vineyard Dragonfly is an eighteen year old vineyard that specializes in cool climate wines, using Island suited grapes such as Ortega and Pinot Auxerrois. Further on, at the tip of the peninsula, the three acre Muse Winery beckons with one of the prettiest locations on the Island Sample the wines and stay for lunch on the outdoor patio

From here, it’s a mere hop, skip and a jump by ferry to Salt Spring Island and a lazy drive up to Garry Oaks Winery This 100 year old farm is known for its pinot noir and zweigelt, an Austrian red variety Exploring more of Salt Spring as you head for the Crofton ferry your ride back to Vancouver Island is an added bonus.

The Cowichan Valley is the largest wine producing area in the region, with many wineries open to visitors and within a few minutes of each other From the ferry, your first stop (as you head south and back to Victoria) is Averill Creek Vineyard, one of the largest of the Island wineries and known for its high quality pinots Follow this up with a visit to Blue Grouse Estate Winery Blue Grouse helped pioneer and establish grape growing and fine winemaking in the area. Don’t miss Venturi Schulze Vineyards, a family run vineyard making some the best sparkling wines around Be sure to tr y their traditional style, balsamic vinegar it’s an Island treasure Just around the corner is Rocky Creek Winery Husband and wife team Linda and Mark Holford are hospitable hosts who make wines from 100% Island grown grapes Back on the highway, take a right at the village of Cobble Hill We have two stops here Glenterra Vineyards makes wines on the site of the first experimental vineyard and still cultivate many of those early varieties. Lunch can be enjoyed outdoors at Glenterra’s Thistles Café But the area is not all grapes! Cider is a way of life on the Island and Merridale Estate Cidery makes some of the best Plus, their Bistro La Pommeraie is a must stop for food lovers.

Touring and tasting is a great way to not only see the area but to meet the locals who live and work on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands Who knows, you might be inspired to start your own winery one day.

For more information, with addresses on these and other wineries, local grape varieties, and a complete touring guide, pick up a copy of Island Wineries of British Columbia written by the EAT team and available at bookstores, wine shops, wineries, or online at www touchwoodeditions com

liquid assets by Larry Ar nold

BEST VALUE

La Cason Rose Monastrell 2009 Spain $10 00 13 00

Simply delicious with lovely berr y flavours, soft acidity and a refreshingly dr y finish! The perfect patio sipper on a hot summer day

WHITE WINE

L’Ecole No. 41 “Woila Voila” Chenin Blanc 2009 Washington $26 00 28 00

Family owned and operated, L’Ecole No 41 is an old schoolhouse built in 1915, just outside the city limits of scenic Walla Walla, Washington, home of a large sweet onion of the same name and a rather grim looking federal penitentiary The wine you say, what of the wine? This Chenin is anything but grim It is beautiful with honeysuckle and orange blossom aromas and flavours of apricots, apples and a thousand and one flowers that dance about the palate It is lovely, clean and fresh, each sip begging another Amen

Louis Jadot Saint Veran 2009 France $27 00 30 00

Saint Veran is a ver y small commune close to Pouilly Fuisse in the Maconnais region of Burgundy It is 100% Chardonnay, fermented and aged in stainless steel The wine is delicate and very dry with slight citrus aromas and a subdued nutty character. It is soft, fresh and very tasty indeed.

Huia Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 New Zealand $25.00 27.00

There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc It is pungent, full flavoured and not lacking in character Ripe guava, gooseberry and cats pee aromas assault the nose and ride rough shod over the palate! This beauty is well balanced with good weight and enough acidity to make your mouth water Sounds terrible, tastes great!

RED WINE

Pirramimma Petit Verdot Reserve 2006 Australia $30 00 32 00

Thirty dollar Aussie reds may no longer be the darlings of local wine aficionados during these uncertain economic times but this hedonistic fruit bomb is well worth the splurge Medium to full bodied with ripe berry, cassis and spice flavours, lovely balance and a long silky finish that just keeps going Very easy to like Cà Du Rabajà Dolcetto D’Alba 2009 Italy $24 00 27 00

So who in this great big beautiful province drinks Dolcetto? Pity! Along with Nebbiolo and Barbera, Dolcetto is the third grape of Piedmont, home to some of the greatest wines in the solar system It deserves a taste and this is the wine to try Simply delicious with a whiff of almonds and anise on the nose and a mouthful of ripe cherry and blueberry flavours leading into a soft, slightly bitter finish. An absolute classic!

Donnafugata Sedara 2008 Italy $17 00 19 00

Sicily is one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe right now and this tasty red from Donnafugata is a good reason why. Sedara is a blend of Nero d’Avola, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah Rich and spicy with cherry, bramble and mineral flavours that develop with a little time in the glass! Medium bodied with a blush of tannins.

Artadi “Artazuri” Garnacha 2009 Spain $19.00 21.00

If you are looking for a wine that consistently over delivers for the price then look no further This soft, easy going red from the Navarra is chock o block full of sweet raspberry, tomato leaf and earth flavours. Lovely fresh fruit, nice balance and good length! What more can you ask of a squeezed grape?

Louis Martini Napa Valley Cab Sauvignon 2007 California $30 00 33 00

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 82% Cabernet, 10% Merlot, the remaining 8% being Petit Verdot and Petite Syrah Strange but true! In some wine regions a wine does not have to be what it claims to be That said this is one heck of a Cabernet Sauvignon. Very forward with cassis, brambles, smoke and wet earth aromas and layers of complex fruit flavours Full bodied with soft silky tannins

MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007 California $25 00 27 00

This is one big Pinot! Fat and rich, with an intense bouquet of cherries, strawberries, sweet toasted oak and spice! Full bodied with gobs of ripe juicy fruit flavours, a blush of soft tannins and a long smoky finnish A lovely bottle of wine!

Mt. Boucherie Summit Reserve Pinot Noire 2009 BC $19 00 23 00

Fruity and intense with cherr y, spice and a whiff of barnyard on the nose Concentrated fruit flavours with a lovely silky texture and fine grained tannins round out the picture This is a very good Pinot Noir

Chateau Les Fermenteaux Bordeaux 2009 France $18 00 20 00

This lovely award winning claret is a blend of Merlot (75%) Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc (5%), fermented in stainless steel and aged in oak for the better part of a year Medium bodied with cassis and tobacco box on the nose, concentrated fruit flavours and plenty of grip on the finish. Given the reputation of the vintage and the insane prices these wines command, need I say more?

Little Tribune Farm Farm & Winery

A new Hornby Island winery opened its doors in late May. Located right across from Little Tribune Bay, a five minute walk to ‘downtown’ Hornby, Little Tribune Farm uses all organic farming methods, and has planted Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc The winery building is a spectacular sight with a 1000 square foot cellar, wooden beams, foot thick concrete construction and stunning rammed earth walls. The material, mostly yellow sand and clay, came from the excavation for the cellar There is a lengthy breezeway, a glass centric tasting room, a kitchen and outside decks The new winer y will appear to have ‘risen from the soil,’ on an island that values its natural heritage The winery will produce several labels, including a low sulfite wine. 250.335.2189

Muse Winery

After a quiet winter of hibernation Deep Cove’s Muse is buzzing again Bistro Muse opened again in May, and the winery has debuted their newest additions to the lineup: Gewurztraminer and a Chardonnay/Sémillon blend And last year’s successful theatre at the Muse will be back again this July and August, with the Peninsula Players open air theatre presenting Gone With the Wine This year's production, an original play by Sasha Moriarty Schieven, is based on the theme of rumrunners during Prohibition on Vancouver Island. www.musewinery.ca

Spinnakers Brewpub

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub now offers a rotating selection of guest beers on tap They started with ‘visitng’ stout and at press time was offering IPAs from The Lagunitas Brewing Company (Petaluma, CA) and Hopworks Urban Brewery (Portland, OR)

This spring Spinnakers released a limited edition Discover y Ale, featuring Mike Doehnel's local malted barley from the Saanich Peninsula This 3 8% low gravity session ale is in honour of a similar beer released with Northern Brewer hops that went into space with the crew of the Space Shuttle Discovery in 1992. After completing 128 orbits of Earth and 3 million miles, these hops were used in Spinnakers' Discover y Ale (an Extra Special Bitter at that time) The full Discover y crew, including Dr Roberta Bondar attended the launch of this once in a lifetime brew on April 28, 1992 at Spinnakers. And keep an eye out for Ryder Hesjedal’s Tour de Victoria Summer Ale, a racy summer session beer to support the Tour de Victoria www spinnakers com

Clive’s Classic Lounge a Finalist in Tales of a Cocktail

Clive’s Classic Lounge in the Chateau Victoria has been honoured enough to be named a finalist in the category of “World’s Best Hotel Bar” & the only Canadian bar nomi nated at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards The peer nominated and judged competition includes categories such as “International Brand Ambassador” & “Best Drink’s Selection”. Clive’s Classic Lounge has been grouped with such great hotel bars as the American Bar in the Savoy, London; Artesian in the Langham, London & Clyde Common in the ACE, Portland The awards ceremony will be held July 23rd in New Orleans during the Tales of the Cocktail event

Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine is back for it’s third year, with more events than ever The festival uncorks on July 21, with an evening tasting of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by top Vancouver Island chefs Not just a wine festival, t his culinar y tourism experience is an extra long weekend of tas tings, seminars and events New t his year are t he Tas te Awards, celebrating the Sommelier of the Year (award sponsored by Mission Hill) and the Taste Wine List Award (presented by EAT) Winners will be announced at the Trade Tasting on July 21 Find the full event calendar at www victoriataste com New this year are the inaugural Sommelier of the Year Award, sponsored by Mission Hill, as well as t he Tas t e W ine Lis t Awards , sponsored by EAT Magazine Also new is a 100 metre (max!) feast, in the field at Vantreight Farms, with Chef Matt Rissling and his team from The Marina Restaurant Watch EATmagazine ca for posts, tweets, photos and tastes from the festival www victoriataste ca *Check the DRINK section of EatMagazine ca for current releases, beverage news & events

heroes by Joseph Blake

Noël Richardson

The local community lost a visionar y leader in May, and I lost a dear friend. Ravenhill Herb Farm’s Noël Richardson died in her sleep at her Central Saanich home on May 11 She was 73 years old

I met Noël and her husband, Andrew Yeoman, at my Oak Bay store, Earth House Hold Natural Foods in 1979 They’d arrived from Calgary, bought the 10 acre property they would carve into Ravenhill sight unseen from a newspaper ad, and were selling culinary herbs and plants. It was the beginning of a 30 year friendship.

My wife, Lynne, and Noël were soulmates, bond ing over books, cooking, politics, kids and shared friends For three decades, Noël and Andrew pro vided a haven of farmhouse warmth and uncondi tional love to our family of feral sons and bookish, sweet daughter We shared dozens of family meals and dinner parties with poets, painters, politicians and other public figures at the farm We also gathered regularly at Noël’s favourite local restaurants for memorable evenings of feasting and warm con versation

Born in Comox, Noël got her degree in English literature and British history at UBC In 1979, Noël and Andrew moved to the property overlooking Mt Newton Valley and created their idyllic farm on a south facing hillside with two acres of herbs, a donkey, goat, sheep, chickens, geese, peacocks and standard poodles called Vita and Talullah. Noël liked strong women

Noël had a long writing career and wrote numerous newspaper articles, six years’ worth of restaurant reviews in Western Living, a monthly country living column in CityFood and several books: Winter Pleasures, Summer Delights, and In a Country Garden: Life at Ravenhill Farm, as well as Herbal Celebrations with her daughter Jenny Cameron, a chef, caterer and cooking instructor in her own right Noël also helped produce a popular culinary herb poster with artist J Ward Harris and edited Andrew’s first book A West Coast Kitchen Garden. Her books had a strong impact on the burgeoning local food scene

One of the first local farms to open its doors to the public, Ravenhill hosted thousands of visitors from around the world There were numerous events, art shows and theatrical performances at Ravenhill, and Noël taught cooking classes at the farm and in local kitchen shops. The farm’s craft sale, Christmas in the Barn, was a local seasonal highlight for years Ravenhill also hosted the Island’s first Feast of Fields in 1998

Noël lived with an inspiring state of grace, optimism and childlike wonder She loved life. One of my warmest memories is of Noël and Andrew wrapped in each other’s arms as they danced to a Fats Domino tune, out of my 60th birthday party and into the night Over the last couple of years, our regular meals together at Zambri’s, Café Brio and other favourite local restaurants became less frequent. When they could no longer drive or leave the farm, we’d visit with take out. Not long before her death, Noël asked Lynne to bring her one of local artist Robert Amos’s James Joyce bowls for her morning cereal On our last visit, she asked us to bring gelato from Ottavio’s Limited to the view of her beloved farm from her bedroom window, Noël nibbled her gelato and marvelled at the beauty of the birdsong and spring greenery. Noël loved life with a passion and an almost giddy joy that warmed and inspired She will be missed, but never forgotten

S he li v ed h e r v i v i d l i f e o f c o o k i n g , g a r d e n s , c o u n t r y l i v i n g a nd w ri t i ng w i t h a n a l mo s t giddy joy that inspired all who met her.

food

The Buzz

Comox, Nanaimo, Okanagan, Tofino, Vancouver, Victoria

VICTORIA: Summer time, and t he patios have opened! AURA, t he wat er front res t aurant at Inn at Laurel Point, has installed a barbecue and oyster shucking station on their patio for the season In addition to their all day menu featuring Ocean Wise seafood and local wines and ales, this makes it a good choice to take summer visitors, or just take in t he harbour sights on a sunny af ternoon Canoe Brewpub has also opened their patio, and will be featuring live music on Canada Day (July 1st) This summer will be t he last one at Canoe for Sean Hoyne, who has been brewing wit h t hem since t he beginning, as he has plans to open his own brewer y More details to follow as they emerge Looking for t he mos t delicious way to cool of f t his summer? You can f ind some Cold Comfor t Victoria’s sought af ter small batch, quality ice cream at the James Bay Market on Saturdays through out t he summer, as well as at t he V ictor ia Downtown Public Marke t , held in Mar ke t Sq uare on Sunday July 24th and Sunday, August 28th from 11am 3pm In fact, there are many more good reasons to head to t he Downtown Public Market (www victoriapublicmarket com) Each time you go, t here is something new to discover, like the Foxglove Farm milled flour, or the silky raw creamed honey from Cottlestone Apiar y The Downtown Public Market Society’s second annual Eat Here Now Festival will be held in Spirit (Centennial) Square on September 11th Hilar y’s Cheese has now opened their For t St location In addition to their own lovely cheeses, made in Cowichan Bay, they carr y an excellent selection of European and Domestic of ferings They are now ser ving sandwiches on Fol Epi bread, homemade treats such as butter tar ts and biscotti, Organic Fair chocolates, Edible Gardens vinegars, and will soon be stocking Simple Simon meals to go in their freezer

Brand new burger spot in the hear t of downtown is Jackalope Bistro, tucked away on Odeon Alley or Millie’s Lane whatever you like to call that little street (760A Yates) They are ser ving a variety of fresh g round burg ers, including veg e t ar ian, carb free and a g lut en free op tion Owner Melodie Hutmacher’ s motto, “Great food doesn’t have to cost a lot!” is reflected in their pricing burgers range from $5 50 $9 95 and you can add slaw or fries for just a buck Open 7 days (www jackalope ca) Also new in town is Sushi Matsuri on Menzies St in James Bay, ser ving a Korean style chirashi don as well as their fresh sushi James Bay residents are eagerly awaiting the summer opening of a Discover y Cof fee location on the corner of Michigan and Menzies, with the promise of fresh baked goods from Hudson Jones Baking

Congratulations to Stage, which celebrated its 4th anniversar y this spring The small plates wine bar is now presenting “Industr y Knights: You work hard to ser ve your kingdom! Come out and play ” You know who you are head on over Sunday and Monday nights from 5pm 10pm for Sommelier chosen featured wines at 50% markup, Stage platters $15 and all charcuterie, cheese and wine discounted by 15%

Congrats also to Veneto which earned bragging rights this spring thanks to their three stars of the sea son: Simon Ogden, head bar tender, who par ticipated on the famed Kentucky Bourbon Trail, bringing a wealth of first hand knowledge back to the bar, Solomon Siegel, Food and Beverage Manager, who just received a prestigious award from G’Vine Gin, and Ceri Barlow, Vintage Spirits Manager, who recently completed her WSET Advanced Cer tificate in Wines and Spirits Looking ahead, September 18th is the date for this year ’ s Vancouver Island Feast of Fields, hosted this year by Marley Farm in Saanichton Tickets are now available at www feastof fields com Rebecca Baugniet

NANAIMO: On a recent visit to the Alberni Valley I stumbled upon a fantastic cof fee break star ting with small batch hand roasted cof fee from Misty Ridge Cof fee Roasting Company You can find your r ic h, f lavour ful bag of beans among t he handmade treats at t he Mar ina Quay’s Sug ar Shak (www t hesugarshak ca) Or, t he more creative cof fee connoisseurs can visit Misty Ridge in Cherr y Creek to create a 5 lb custom blend from a selection of organic beans from Africa, South America or SE Asia (www mistyridgecof feebeans com) Jus t a few doors down from t he Sugar Shak , t he Donut Shop claims to make the “best donuts on Vancouver island” One bite of these lightly fried doughy de lights and you may just have to agree There’s cer tainly no argument coming from me! (Marina Quay 54 40 Argyle Road)

Down the road, the goats on the roof aren’t the only attraction this year at the Coombs Market with t he recent opening of t he Cuc koo Res t aurant (www oldcountr ymarket com/italianres taurant ) The conver t ed old f ar m house of f ers a lovely se tting to f eas t upon gorg eous aut hentic nor t her n It alian cuisine Be sure to read Cuckoo’s full profile in the Restaurant Repor ter section of this EAT issue (pg 16) Adding more appeal to the Oceanside region is the new summer endless tapas menu in the Tree Top

Tapas and Grill at the Tigh Na Mara Resor t and Spa Here chef Eric Edwards and his team spoil you wit h an endless deliver y of creative t as ting dishes suc h as beautifully mar inat ed calamar i and Moroccan inspired lamb chops But If you go, be prepared to unwind while you dine, since this menu is only available as an après spa or grotto experience and has a spa robe dress code (www tigh na mara com)

Nanaimo residents continue to rely on Pipers Meats (www pipersmeats com) for top quality locally grown products, especially during t he summer BBQ season and now a great selection of prepared meals in various por tion sizes can be found next door at t he Red Rhino Takeout For a fast hear ty eat in lunch, owner Warren Bjarnason also of fers a deli case full of af fordable Mediterranean inspired fare (2139 Bowen Rd) chef Ryan Zuvich’ s team at Markt Ar tisan Deli continues to impress with their mont hly c hef’s table dinner ser ies and are now ser ving lunc h wit h a f ine selection of paninis, cold, sandwiches, salads, soups and a daily pasta special (marktar tisandeli com) New to the Old City Quar ter, The Nest Bistro of fers a small menu with big flavours! Here the talented chef duo of Nick Braun and Jennifer Ash add a modern twist to traditional West Coast fare and comfor t food dishes such as potato crusted salmon, The Jenny Mac and roast beef with Yorkshire Pudding This cozy restaurant is def initely a welcome addition to the growing culinar y scene of downtown Nanaimo (486A Franklyn St ) Cowichan Bay Pasta Company (www cowichanpasta com) has launched a creative selection of Ravioli filled with 100% local Vancouver Island ingredients These delectable pockets can be found at Cowic han Bay Seafood, Cowic han Meat Market and Markt Ar tisan Deli in t heir frozen foods sections Also at Cowichan Bay Seafood, fisherman/owner Greg Best and par tner Ann Best have opened an outdoor café on the patio to ser ve up their freshly prepared catches of day (www cowichan bayseafood com) Great news coming from Zanatta Winer y is the return of chef Fatima Da Silva to t heir V ino t eca res t aurant (www zanatt a ca) While busy br inging her for midable t alents bac k to Vinoteca, Fatima still continues to please palates at her restaurant Bistro 161 in downtown Duncan (www bistro161 net) Venturi Schultze has just opened their new tasting room and picnic patio where you can relax with a glass of wine and take in the vineyard view Check their website for fabulous food bearing guests and other special events over the season (www venturischultze ca) Karma Brophy

COMOX VALLEY: We are definitely going to eat well now that the Comox Valley Farmers Market has grow into a Wednesday 9am till 12pm event at t he old market spot located at 1025 1119 Old

Cont’d on the next page

Island Hwy The f ar mers will also s till g at her on Saturday mornings next to the Exhibition Grounds at 4835 Headq uar t ers Rd For a lis t of vendors, per for mers, mar ke t hours and infor mation go to www comoxvalleyfarmersmarket com

The baske ts are full of c heese, meats, produce, preser ves and bread; you are headed to an island with a beautiful beach, maybe a forest with a river meandering out into a meadow or a mountain with the most spectacular view of the valley But before you will need to stop at the wineries in the Comox Valley to get your local selection of unique award winning wines, awards have been literally pouring into the fruit wine producers

Blue Moon Es t at e W iner y makes fr uit wines made from Pattison Farms pears, apples from Apple Lane Orc hards on Denman Island and blueberries and blackberries from Natures Way Farm The winer y and farm are accompanied by a Tria, a culinar y studio Tria is run by Kathy Jerritt and the experience is a destination into the culture of Comox Valley agritourism, visit t he website for more info at www bluemoonwiner y ca Coas t al Black Estate Winer y is producing award winning wines from blueberries, blackberries and raspber ries Also available are Mead, Spiced Mead and Blueber r y Mead all made from Big D’ s honey which is a result of great aper y management on the proper ty Look for Big D’s blackberr y honey at the winer y and specialty shops in t he valley www coas talblack ca Beauf or t V ineyard and Es t at e W iner y is a producer of fr uit wines t hat have also been awarded along with sparkling and

other grape varietal wines www beaufor twines ca You can always enjoy a glass of Beaufor t Or tega while overlooking the beautiful Beaufor t Range on the Avenue Bistro (www avenuebistro ca) patio

If all t he tr ips to t he beac h and t he lake have taken t heir toll, its patio time and here are a few wor th enjoying Crowne Isle (www crownisle com) has t he Timberoom Patio overlooking t he resor t and beyond

In downtown Cour tenay you can find refreshing homemade lemonade and t hirs t q uenc hing ‘f ish bowl’ Marg ar it as along wit h insane food wit h attitude from the Mad Chef Cafe. While enjoying the patio at Atlas Cafe (atlascafe ca)make sure to order the seasonal favourite Mediterranean platter combinations, it’s like a vacation With new house manager Sean Poole aboard from Victoria, Atlas wishes Andy MacMillan well as he jumps into and onto new oppor tunities A hot sunny spot on Comox Ave is Benino Gelato where you can cool of f while enjoying an authentic Italian ice cream

The 3rd annual Comox Valley 30 Day Local Food Challenge is set to run July 2nd until August 2nd The immersive ag r icultural exper ience is a hand on showcase of t he Comox Valley Visit www eatlocalcomoxvalley com to see how you can ‘celebrate the roots of food through the bounty of the valley’

I would like to t hank Jules Frank and Ion Mowat, Kat hy and V ictor McLagg an , Troy Bouc hard along wit h Outlandish Shellf ish for hosting the First Annual Family Tour They hosted friends and families for two days in Heriot Bay on

Quadra Island During those two days they shared home, proper ty, beac h t enure, oys t er f loats and boats along with a ton of the best shellfish on the market Also, thank you for introducing all who visit ed to Sout h End Farm & V ineyards (www southend ca) who produce 100% Quadra Island grown wine Eli Blake

TOFINO: The first annual Feast! Tofino Ucluelet and t he 9t h Annual Tof ino Food & W ine Fes tival is wrapping up as I wr it e t his What a f abulous mont h it was Read more at on t he EAT website at www eatmagazine ca

A f ew shuf f les are under way at Blac k Roc k Oceanfront Resor t in Ucluelet A favourite chef of mine is leaving the west coast Andrew Springett is moving on from Black Rock to a teaching position at SAIT Polytechnic in Calgar y at the end of June Springett not only helped open Black Rock, but also worked at the Wickaninnish Inn, where I first met him He and his family will be missed in Ucluelet According to Black Rock GM Adele Larkin t hey will be welcoming executive c hef Morne Van Antwerp June 30 Van Antwer p has wor ked all over the world, including as sous chef at Langdon Hall in Ontario Another Wickaninnish Inn alumni, Andy Loiselle has recently joined the Black Rock team as nighttime res taurant manager Their new daytime manager is Towrie Howlett

It's been a roc ky road for two food s t ands in Tof ino t his wint er TacoFino Cantina and Sug ar Shack's Tofino Hot Dogs were both facing expired temporar y permits and uncer tain futures in town (the

district does not have a mobile food policy as yet) Council did finally approve new temporar y permits for bot h s tands for t he next 24 mont hs TacoFino specializes in Ba ja s tyle t acos and bur r itos, and Tofino Hot Dog stand carries free range sausages, chili and hot dogs Before the fate was decided in Tofino, Jay and Kaeli of TacoFino applied to be par t of Vancouver's food s t and lott er y and won two spaces Now they're going to have a busy summer managing their Tofino truck , as well as TacoFino at Denman and Davie and Kiss Kiss Banh Banh, a Vietnamese sandwich stall, at Howe and Robson If t he popular ity of TacoFino in Tof ino is any indication, these two additional locations are sure to be hopping For more information about TacoFino, visit www tacofino com Tofino Hot Dogs is online at www tofinohotdogs com

Professional food lover Bobby Lax continues his Coas t al Cooking classes, of f er ing bot h pr ivat e sessions such as family gathering and staf f par ties, as well as publicly t hrough Tof ino Par ks and Recreation (www tofino ca) Also lis ten for Bobby on Long Beach Radio on Fridays from 9 10am for t he Fr iday Funky Food Hour wit h hos t Geof f Johnson It's funky music and food t alk , says Bobby If you ' re in Tof ino t his summer, be sure to stop by the Saturday market on the Village Green Jules from 100 Hundred Deg ress Baker y is always on hand wit h baked goodies, and I've heard r umours of pies on a s tic k making an ap pearance from anot her source as well That's enough to get me down there! Jen Dar t

VANCOUVER: I was war y when The BiBo opened Owners Andrea Bini and Carl Lorenzo Bottazzi assumed a failed establishment Across t he street is t he ver y successful Italian Kitc hen wit h outdoor seating (Bibo lacks a summer patio) Andrea, too, flies in t he face of t he “local and organic et hos, apologizing not a whit for sourcing Italian impor ts like DOP tomatoes (DOP Denominazione d' Origine Protetta stands for "protected designation of origin"), DOP burrata cheese and fresh Genoese basil

“ They are local to me ” , he g r ins, wit h an accent so c har ming it’s im possible to argue It’s also impossible to argue with the food Pillowy house made gnocchi is tossed with fragrant pesto Thin crust Neapolitan pizza, the base of which are those sweet San Marzano tomatoes need little more than basil and a scattering of fresh mozzarella Bresaola (air dried Italian beef), abed baby arugula receives a trickle of craf t olive oil The wine of fers delightful of f the grid Italian varietals And the place is full ever y night 1835 West 4th Avenue, thebibo com

A few doors down from The Bibo Romer’s Burger Bar replaced another belly up restaurant It is doing well Here ingredients nod proudly to “local” Fist thick burgers are made from heritage Angus beef, Fraser Valley lamb pork and poultr y or wild salmon Toppings range from applewood smoked bacon, local cheddar to crunchy red onions and water cress Yam fries, ser ved with chipotle aioli arrive at the table hot and crisp Be sure to ask for a side of garlic mustard It’s made in and of fered “ on the house” 1873 West 4th Ave , romersburgerbar com

Af ter a mor ning s troll along Coal Harbour t he s trata at Giovane Caf é + Baker y +Deli, a t hic k quiche like wedge layered with sausage, red peppers, tomatoes, parmegiano and croutons hits the spot

The sweet tooth can go for the sour cherr y chocolate scone or cream cheese frosted sticky cinnamon bun Peruse the Globe or the New York Times over a big medium and mellow or rich, dark eye opening fresh made brew 1038 Canada Place, giovanecafe com

Love sushi but apprehensive as to where that salmon or tuna comes from? Fear no more Urban Fare at the Shangri la Hotel has just launched Blue SeaChoice sushi, made by local supplier Tomiyama In 2010 Dr David Suzuki praised the sustainable sushi initiative steering consumers toward making better choices How good is the sushi? Ver y Salmon and tuna nigiri tastes firm and sweet In addtion white rice avoiders can opt for quinoa brown rice rolls Most of the generous rolls clock in around six or seven bucks SeaChoice sushi is also available at Lower Mainland Save On Food stores where you can also pick up a “Canada’s Sustainable Sushi Guide”

The leaves of Belgian endive (or witloof) with their pleasantly bitter taste make mar vellous boats for dips, are brilliant wit h walnuts and Roquefor t in a salad, and red wine braised endive is a delicious thing Sadly impor ted endive is of ten limp and loose by the time it hits the store shelves BC grown Van Eekelen Belgian endive is well wor t h seeking out for its tangy, tight snow white leaves Look for it in better grocer y stores Red endive is available November to July Julie Pegg

Find the Okanagan Buzz on page 46.

L ATE BREAKING NEWS

Oak Bay just got a whole lot more interesting with the ad dition of the new wine bar Vis à Vis While not open for previews at t he time of wr iting we were assured t hey would be open by reading The wine list will all be avail able in single glass pours dispensed from an Enomatic system Of special note will be four sparkling wines in the new “Flut e ” spar kling enomatic (t he f irs t in Canada) Pours will come in 1oz, 5oz and 8oz glasses as well as being for sale at the Penny Far thing Liquor Store next door (N ow t here’s a smar t idea BCLDB, duh?) Some finds on of fer are: The View Distraction Rose, Brokenwood Semillon, Langmeil Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon and Dow’s 1985 Vintage Por t

The menu will have a selection of cheese and charcu terie some housemade in their Salumeria as well as small plates such as Pork Belly, Grapefruit, Endive, Maple Onion Caramel; and Ling Cod Confit, Sof t Egg Yolk, Peas & Potato Puree 5pm until close, Tuesday thru Saturday

Mirjana Vukman is back at her old haunt at # 10 Dragon Alley Go for lunch (noon 3pm cash only) or book a private par ty for the evening Look for the likes of Roas t Quail Apple Gnocc hi, Apricot Pilaf wit h Shrimp, Wild Indo

chine Greens, and Chocolate Pud wit h Maple Butter Amazing food/always memorable 1952mv@gmail com

Vis à Vis opens on Oak Bay Ave. photo cour tesy of Peter Bagi.

Cowichan Bay, a picturesque seaside village a shor t drive nor th of Victoria, is emerging as a little culinary oasis on Vancouver Island and quickly becoming known as the gastronomic epi centre of the Cowichan Valley region.

A vista of ocean, sail and fishing boats, piers, whar ves, floating homes, small shops and restaurants greet you as you come down the hill into the village. Most of the action takes place along the main street which runs along the waterfront. Visitors come to stroll the shops and galleries, enjoy a fine meal or simply to grab a snack. But the village is also becoming a hub for searching out and sampling local southern Vancouver Island foods and wines If it’s seafood you are looking for, the Cowichan Bay Seafood shop is the place to go Owners Gregg and Anne Best are commercial crab and prawn fishermen and pioneers in sustainable seafood production At their shop fresh from the sea, fresh Dungeness crab are the treat this season and make sure you try their chowder! A little fur ther along the street Hilar y’s Cheese & Deli offers visitors a change to relax and savour cheeses produced locally or from fur ther afield Bring summer onto your plate with Hilarys own fresh Chevre, the cheese of summer It's a natural with smoked salmon, fresh greens or local asparagus (Look for their new cheese shop on For t Street ) For 5 star, casually elegant dining, a shor t stroll will bring you to The Masthead Restaurant. Owner/manager Luke Harms has perfected the ar t of dining well with both the menu and the wine list celebrating local foods and wines from the nearby farms and wineries. The deck is open and numerous new local wines have arrived. Check their website for upcoming special dinners. With many wonderful wineries close by, try the wine café at Rocky Creek Winer y, a wonderful outdoor patio. This sunmmer llok for the release of their sparkling, rosé and Tempranillo 2009 wines and enjoy the view and listen to the outdoor music

Destination Summerland

A new culinar y star is rising in the Okanagan.

House smoked Duck Ham Panini with three year old aged Balderson Cheddar, Portobello mushrooms and a Basil Pesto Mayonnaise, with mixed frites (yam, potatoes and parsnip) and house made seasonal ketchup from tomatoes, strawberries and chipotle

Owner/Chef Roger Gillespie

Surrounded by the Bottleneck Wineries and local fruit stands, Summerland has become one of the Okanagan’s best culinary destinations The Summerland Waterfront Resort and Hotel built in 2005, along with the Local Lounge and Grille restaurant which opened in 2010 has completely revitalized Summerland’s waterfront Up the hill and across the highway, the charming downtown of Summerland is home to good eateries, world class restaurants and a close by epicurean secret

The Local Lounge and Grille is filled with locals, boaters and tourists for the simple reason that it combines the right mix of waterfront, modern restaurant/upstairs lounge and large outdoor patio, with good food, cocktails, and a solid wine list An absolute must Local’s legendary freshly ground chuck steak burger and fries either on the waterfront patio or picked up by boat at the dockside take out menu. Watch for the opening of Local’s new liquor store with cooking facility this fall.

Start the day with coffee from one of Summerland’s two artisan coffee roasters, The Beanery Coffee Co and Backyard Beans found along with home made goodies at The Beanery Café, the star of the high street or Good Omens Coffee House with a beautiful back garden patio respectively. The recently arrived Wagon Wheel restaurant with the outlawed wagon on the roof serves excellent all day home made breakfasts, ciabatta sandwiches and to die for home made lemon squares For lunch, Reez's Smoked Meat Diner is a must and the only authentic Montreal deli in the valley Their smoked meat is flown in from Lester’s Deli in Montreal, served on rye bread with a kosher pickle Added bonus real Quebec poutine For excellent sushi, The Just Delicious Bistro is actually a tiny and charming Japanese restaurant For an afternoon treat, visit The Sweet Tooth Cafe for delicious home made cheesecake Step back in time at the Cake Box Bakery open since 1946, where you can still buy fresh farm eggs. Local favorites include Cozy Fish and Chips and take out/delivery pizza from Murray’s Pizza Head to Peacock Pub for an Okanagan beer or enjoy nightly live music at Zia’s Stonehouse Restaurant, with a beautiful garden patio and good Okanagan wines The Summerland Farmer’s Market operates during the summer on Thursday evenings at Rotary beach perfect for a casual dinner by the lake. Both the Vanilla Pod Restaurant which opened in 2006 followed by the Victoria Road Deli and Bistro in 2008 make Summerland a culinary destination Open for dinner except on Mondays, the Vanilla Pod specializes in tapas styled dishes, allowing guests to enjoy multiple dishes. Sushi pizza and crème brulee for dessert are an absolute must. Outstanding Okanagan wine list plus exclusive imports. The Victoria Road and Deli’s airy and modern bistro is a sanctuary from the hot sun and perfect for a casual gourmet lunch Wonderful soups, salads and gourmand Panini’s with frites The in house smoked and cured meats are sensational Dinner Thursday Saturday showcases chef

Ground Chuck Steak Burger Peppercorn dijon mayo, pickled beet, sweet onion, lettuce, oregano cheese Kaiser with Blue Claire Cheese or Aged White Cheddar

Owners

Christa Lee and Cameron Bond, Executive Chef Paul Cecconi.

Pan Seared Halibut with warm potato salad, local organic spinach, tomato and scallions

Part of the Bottleneck winery tour, The Vinegar Works at Valentine Farm grows everything on their farm including grapes which they make into wine specifically for their divine home made vinegars Loved by local chefs they are a must for any home chef Find the pinot noir specially ordered by Harrison Ford at Hollywood & Wine Estate Winery, and enjoy sampling the Okanagan’s award winning summer sparklers at 8th Generation Vineyard . Pick up the Okanagan’s favorite gourmet jams and much more at the family run Summerland Sweets and Sleeping Fruit Winery complete with an ice cream parlor From here wander down to the trestle to watch for the Kettle Valley steam train and lick up summer

For a picnic at the top of Giant Head’s mountain or the Ornamental gardens, pick up local fruit and vegetables from any of the family owned fruit stands along the highway as well as heavenly European bread, cheeses and meats from Paradise Meats/ Renaissance Baker y Or picnic in style at these wineries’ beautiful patios: Dirty Laundr y, Thornhaven Estates, Greata Ranch and the soon to be opened Heaven’s Gate Estate Winery Grab a table along with a bottle of chilled wine at retail prices and drink up the view (glasses provided and cork what you don’t drink to take home Packaged picnic food can also be purchased) Or enjoy the lunch menu at Full Moon Bistro’s patio at the Sonoran Estate Winery, with a sweeping view down to the lake. Indulge in the house specialty baked brie with wine also at retail.

Finally, it is worth planning your trip to Summerland after securing a reservation at Silkscarf Winery’s Kitchenette, open only on weekends for lunch, prix fix and by reservation Choose your wine after enjoying a wine tasting with Roie and Ruth Manoff, and the brilliant home trained chef, Tara Buchman, will send her husband, Idan Manoff to your table with a dazzling array of sensational tapas dishes that are a match in heaven for your wine Each individual dish is made using only the best local ingredients and from scratch including home made bread and pasta Lunch ends with a dessert made for the gods. Despite demand for the Kitchnette to be open daily, the owners want to remain family run and need to attend to their grapes during the week but are open for wine tastings One of the best and most unique dining experiences in the Okanagan Summerland’s shining ever brightly as a culinary star

Roger Gillespie’s true talent Beautiful Okanagan wine list Closed Sundays Near by, Sumac Ridge Winery’s casual but elegant Cellar Door Bistro, is perfect for lunch or a late afternoon charcuterie platter on the lovely patio. A local favorite for a sparkling Sunday brunch Enjoy the delightful 3course prix fixed dinner created by chef Ryan Fuller on Friday/ Saturday evenings Watch for Bonitas Winery’s new Bistro opening in July

travel bc Text by Claire Sear. Photography by Jon Bandring

Owners Paul and Sheila Jones, Executive Chef Bruno Terroso

Local Lounge and Grille

Victoria Road Deli

Vanilla Pod Restaurant

The Hotel El Dorado, one of the Okanagan’s best patios, extends out onto the boardwalk, perfect for soaking up the waterfront and enjoying drinks with good food. The separate dining room patio adds summer romance to any evening 500 Cook Street, (250) 763 7500 Next door neighbor Manteo Resort’s Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge will make you feel as if you too are on holiday wonderful for lunch or dinner 3762 Lakeshore Road, (250) 860 1031 Across the lake, boaters and locals enjoy West Kelowna’s only waterfront patio at the Bonfire Restaurant & Bar at the Cove Resort 4205 Gellatly Rd, (250) 707 1810

In downtown Kelowna Rotten Grape’s sidewalk patio is a haven for wine drinkers who enjoy good food 231 Bernard Ave, (250) 717 8466 Watch the sunset on the patio at Ric’s Grill with beautiful views of City Park /Lake Okanagan. 210 Lawrence Ave, (250) 869 1586. Find Southern charm & BBQ at Memphis Blue’s rocking sidewalk patio. 289 Bernard Ave, (250) 868 3699 In the heart of the cultural district, The Greenroom Bistro, is one of Kelowna’s most delightful patios Enjoy the Okanagan’s only singing servers Thursday Sunday evenings 1360 Ellis St, (250) 869 0193 The cool sleek interior of the Waterfront Restaurant & Wine Bar spills out onto the perfectly shaded patio One of Kelowna’s best restaurants 1180 Sunset Dr, (250) 979 1222 For authentic Italiana, head to La Bussola’s wooden deck patio adorned in flowers 1451 Ellis St, (250) 763 3110 For rooftop dining, Hannah’s Lounge & Grill has a spectacular lake view. 1352 Water St, (250) 860 1266 . A short jaunt from downtown, DeBakkers Kitchen’s neighborhood patio serves the valley’s best wood fired evening pizza’s 1014 Glenmore Drive, (778) 478 0622

For a trip to Paris visit Bouchons Bistro’s charming sidewalk patio 1180 Sunset Drive, (250) 763 6595 Or Le Plateau Bistro’s tiny patio hidden away on Tutt street 3045 Tutt St, (250) 861 8618

In the heart of downtown Kelowna, enjoy The Yellowhouse Restaurant’s delightful garden patio. 526 Lawrence Ave, (250) 763 5136. The Lower Mission’s Mistral Café & Bar’s enchanting garden patio is built around a huge sycamore tree. Enjoy nightly live music. 4638 Lakeshore Rd, (250) 764 2301. For one of the Okanagan’s best kept secrets head to the back of Hector’s Casa Mexican restaurant and step outside into a beautiful courtyard patio Wonderful for afternoon margaritas 2911 Pandosy St, (250) 860 3868 The romantic candle lit patio of Ricardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen is worth the short drive from Kelowna Outstanding food 415 Commonwealth Rd, (250) 766 6810

For a perfect afternoon pint along with decent pub fare head to East Kelowna’s McCulloch Pub’s patio nestled in an orchard 2789 K L O Rd, (250) 762 8882 Feel like a privileged member of a private country club (perfect for impressing the in laws) and enjoy lunch or dinner on the Harvest Dining Room’s beautiful veranda patio at the Harvest Golf Club Golfing not required 2725 K L O Rd, (250) 862 3177 Enjoy the neighborhood atmosphere of West Kelowna’s Nineteen Steakhouse and Lounge’s patio overlooking Two Eagles golf course and lake Summer live jazz Friday nites 3509 Carrington Rd, (250) 768 3133

For dining among the vines, Cedar Creek Estate Winer y’s enchanting Vineyard Ter race restaurant is serene for lunch. Reser ve now for their monthly wine maker’s dinners 5445 Lakeshore Rd, (250) 764 8866 Enjoy lunch or sparkling summer evenings at Summerhill Pyramid Winery’s, Sunset Organic Bistro with majestic outdoor terrace and spectacular view 4870 Chute Lake Rd, (250) 764 8000 Back in West Kelowna, enjoy the beautiful stoned patio for lunch or evening sunset at the spectacular Old Vines restaurant at Quail’s Gate winery. 3303 Boucherie Rd, (250) 769 4451. Finally Mission Hill winery’s outdoor Terrace Restaurant, recognized as one of the best in the world, is simply perfection Breath taking view, impeccable ser vice, and food that is heaven Celebrate their first season being open for dinner with a reservation 1730 Mission Hill Rd, (250) 768 7611. EAT staff

Ron Clavette | Reez’s Smoked Meat Diner | 250 494 4 466

I think I would miss a hot montreal smoked meat sandwich with fries and a dr pepper and maybe a poutine and a steamie Alt hough living in Summerland is kinda like being on a deser ted island, and t hat is t he reason I impor t real montreal smoked meat from Lesters Deli on bernard and park ave in Montreal

Matthew Batey | Terrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Winer y | 250 768 6 467

Roasted whole chicken, per fectly roasted wit h lemon, t hyme and butter wit h a glass of Sauvignon Blanc I recognize it seems so simple, not foie gras or lamb or anyt hing exotic I probably have said it has truf fle in it too, but I really do have a sof t spot for per fectly roasted chicken on a Sun day night wit h t he family

Neil Sc horoeter | Okanagan Street Food | 7 78 478 0807

"Braised seagull in coconut milk for sure no wait I guess I would miss good charcuterie, stinky cheese, bread and a glass of red wine, no better way to spend an af ternoon!"

Jef f Van Geest | Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn Creek Winer y | 250.498.3742

If I was stranded on a deser t island I would miss fresh Cascadian wild mushrooms done simply wit h olive oil and garlic t he most

Antje Sc hir winsky | Crush Bistro | 250 549 4 438

Rosemar y Merlot braised Lamb Shank it's per fect when falling of f the bone by just touching it and melting in our mout h. Imagine t his wit h a big bold Cabernet ahhhh. Of course t hat dish has a big side of dark chocolate, who could be without the best t hing in t he world!

Colin Rayner | Bonitas Winer y | 250 494 5208

I would miss my Sunday f amily roas t But I’m sure I could make do wit h f ire roas ted snapper wrapped wit h banana leaf or whatever I managed to catch t hat day! Mind you t his wouldn’t be hard as I lived on t he Island of Bermuda for 16 years

Rob Cordonier | Hillside Estate Winer y & Bistro | 250 487 1350

Without a doubt it would be ice cream I could eat ice cream for t hree meals a day It is t he per fect food, especially on a hot deser t island, or t he okanagan on a hot summer day More specif ically, our talented and young pastr y Chef Danielle Said’s peanut butter ice cream She makes t he best peanut butter ice cream ever so good we are putting it on our desser t menu yummy!

Okanagan Buzz by Jennifer Schell Pigott

Its Fes tival time in t he Okanag an! Plan to join us t his summer for some of t he province’s mos t spectacular food and wine events The upcoming Okanagan Summer Wine Festival line up this year is amazing Wit h new events and locations added, t he experience will be sure to t hrill your palates www thewinefestivals com

Last month we celebrated the First Annual Okanagan Spot Prawn Festival Hosted by the Pacific Prawn Fisherman’s Association, in conjunction with the Chefs’ Table Society and sponsored by EAT Magazine, events were held at both Manteo Resor t and Watermark Beach Resor t The original Spot Prawn Fes tival, now in its 5t h year, t akes place in May at t he False Creek Fisher man ’ s Whar f in Vancouver Brought to us with help of Jon Crof ts, owner of Codfather’s Seafood Market, we are proud to join ranks with this wonder ful Coastal celebration When in Summerland, make sure to pop into Good Omens Cof fee Shop This hip java hut is owned by Jamie Ohmenzetter and her par tner Jason Embree Both classically trained chefs, this specialty cof fee house also of fers up a delicious food menu and a super cool back yard www GoodOmens ca Af ter a stunning 43 year career, Bouchon’ s well loved chef Dominique Couton has entered into a much deser ved retirement Congratulations to former sous chef Luc Bissonnette who has taken his place at t he kitc hen helm Luc was for mer ly wit h Bacc hus Res t aurant in Vancouver and has been wit h Bouchon’s since it opened in 2004 Before that he cooked in Paris! www bouchonsbistro com Farmers Market favorites Mar y De Bakker and husband Sandy Lukic have opened their own digs De Bakker’s Kitchen in Kelowna This cozy, wood themed eater y boasts a beautiful wood fire oven fed by local apple wood Of fering up a wide array of wood fire oven baked breads, t hey are now open for lunch and dinner Their delicious locally focused lunch menu features

Okanagan

homemade soups, salads,

“If you were stranded on a deserted island, w h a t f a v o u r i t e m e a l w o u l d y o u m i s s t h e most and why”

Quic k Bites:

• Little Creek Gardens have released a brand new salad dressing to add to their delicious reper toire a creamy Caesar! www littlecreekgardens com

• The Rotten Grape wine bar downtown has a new chef in the house Direct from Umbria, hot, young chef Giulio Piccioli has infused a taste of Tuscany to the menu www rottengrape com

• Serendipity Winer y has opened up recently on the Naramata Bench make sure to add them to your wine tour www serendipitywiner y com

• Raudz Regional Table’ s cocktail classes lead by in house liquid chef Gerr y Jobe are still going strong check out their schedule and sign up: www raudz com

• Wat er front Res t aurant will be expanding into t he space next door where Me tro Liq uor now resides www water frontrestaurant ca

There are a lot of NEW releases and NEW wines in the Okanagan this spring. But nothing as NEWswor thy as the announcement of Okanagan Crush Pad’s newest arrival.

What is the ultimate symbolism of NEW? The egg

New beginnings, birth of a new era, a new living thing Summerland’s Okanagan Cr ush Pad Winer y is the first and only winer y in Canada to use egg shaped temperature controlled concrete tanks for winemak ing They’ve ordered 6 of these concrete fermenters after much study, and on the trusted advice of renowned winemaker Alber to Antonini. Okanagan Crush Pad’s consulting winemaker, Antonini has a his tor y of working with concrete in Europe, where the practice of fermenting wine in oval shaped amphora goes back to the beginning of winemaking history. Of course, concrete too has been used for centuries in winemaking, but these egg shaped tanks from Sonoma Cast Stone take a very forward thinking approach using modern fea tures such as wall embedded temperature control tubing There is also an impact on the flavour development of wine when concrete is used Like oak vessels, concrete is slightly porous, allowing the wine to breathe as it would in oak However, unlike oak, the eggs leave no oaky flavour as they gently diffuse oxygen Concrete is considered neutral, like stainless steel, and imparts no flavours of its own The concrete tanks are unlined and they allow a measured but lasting flow of oxygen into the tank through out fermentation and aging The tank’s egg shape means more of the cap (skins and pulp floating on top of the juice in red wine fermentation) stays submerged Accord ing to Sonoma Cast Stone, this lengthier contact of the skins and pulp with the juice means wines come out brighter with higher fruit notes and prettier secondary aromas that you don’t tend to find in wines fermented in stainless steel.

Okanagan Crush Pad has been designed to facilitate production of multiple small lots of wine from many different sources. Head winemaker Michael Bartier will assist and advise on the vinification. It is also home to Haywire wines (owned by Crush Pad owner Christine Coletta) and the newly launched Bartier Scholefield wines (a joint project of Michael Bartier and David Scholefield).

www okanagancrushpad com www haywirewinery com

“A fantastic blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier and a dash of Muscat that screams summer...”

The Wine Diva, www.winediva.ca, 2010 www.tinhorn.com

NEW!

WWW.HESTERCREEK.COM

DRINK UP the Valley by Treve Ring

Hester Creek proudly introduces – Character White and Character Red – both bright, fresh, lively blends that are classic examples of what our 95-acre vineyard site on the Golden Mile Bench creates.